Merchandising project by Olga Loboda

INTERCULTURALISM

Executive Summary

The main purpose of the project was to develop the capacity of transforming a real social trend into a fashion product. This work is a summary of all the main skills I have learnt on Merchandising, Distribution and Buying courses held by Bianka Renn in Istituto Europeo di Design. The final output is a realistic business simulation.

MERCHANDISING PROJECT

Olga Loboda professor Bianka Renn Fashion Marketing Istituto europeo di design level 6 2013-2014

other. Moreover, the current issues concerning immigration and discrimination bring this topic on a new level. We experience the new wave of migration that results in different aspect of countries, from economics to fashion and art. We can not really influence the governmental decisions, but intercultural impact on art is enormous. I try to imagine the ideal image of co-existence and exchange. It is definitely not going to happen in the next few years; therefore everything is realized on a futuristic background. The trend is applied to Gianfranco Ferre, a brand that has recently experienced a crisis, almost bankruptcy, big investment aftrwards and a radical change in management. It has not still chosen a new direction of development, but it is clear that it has to be taken and it has to be very different from what the brand has been doing before.

Methodology

During my work I deeply analyse the main topics and reason each of my choices. An important source for my work was information from UN website, the predictions and growth rates of migration, confirming my assumptions. For adoption the trend in the fashion field View magazine was a useful source both in terms of information and inspiration. For the brand choice an arguemented evaluation was produced. Such tools as SWOT analysis, Prism, Marketing mix and a Positioning map were applied in order to analyse Gianfranco Ferre. Skills gained during the merchandising course of the first year were used to produce target analysis, to structure excel sheets of the offer and systemize the collection book.

index IMMIGRATION.................................................................. ...........................................................................................6-15 The situation today..................................................................................................................................................... 6-7 Why and where?.......................................................................................................................................................... 8-9 Struggling for rights................................................................................................................................................. 10-13 Culture and fashion.................................................................................................................................................. 14-15 Trend identification............................................................................................................................................. 18-39 Future tribes............................................................................................................................................................. 18-19 Colors and shapes................................................................................................................................................... 20-23 Brand selection........................................................................................................................................................ 24-39 Gianfranco Ferreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;................................................................................................................................................ 42-60 The story.................................................................................................................................................................. 42-43 The heritage............................................................................................................................................................. 44-45 The situation today.................................................................................................................................................. 46-47 Offer and style.......................................................................................................................................................... 48-49 Distribution and pricing strategies.......................................................................................................................... 50-51 Target........................................................................................................................................................................ 52-57 Promotion...................................................................................................................................................................... 58 Prism............................................................................................................................................................................. 59 SWOT............................................................................................................................................................................. 60 competitors ..........................................................................................................................................................62-67 Aquilano.Rimondi.......................................................................................................................................................... 62

Costume National..................................................................................................................................................... 63-64 Francesco Scognamiglio.............................................................................................................................................. 64 Vionnet..................................................................................................................................................................... 65-66 Positioning.................................................................................................................................................................... 67

The proposal......................................................................................................................................................... 70-95 Respect, Coexistence, Urbanism............................................................................................................................. 70-71 Competitors: Celine...................................................................................................................................................... 72 Competitors: Kenzo.................................................................................................................................................. ... 73 Competitors: Stella Jean............................................................................................................................................... 74 Target........................................................................................................................................................................ 75-79 Collection mix.......................................................................................................................................................... 80-81 Pricing strategy........................................................................................................................................................ 82-83 Colors....................................................................................................................................................................... 84-85 Capsule collection overview.................................................................................................................................... 86-91 Distribution............................................................................................................................................................... 92-93 Budget and forecast .................................................................................................................................................94-95 Collection book Index......................................................................................................................................................................... 98-99 Brand Statement................................................................................................................................................... 100-101 Theme: Nature................................................................................................................................................... .. 102-103 Theme: Humanity................................................................................................................................................. 104-105 Theme: Harmony ..................................................................................................................................................106-107 Colors and prints.................................................................................................................................................. 108-109 Example of a product description............................................................................................................................... 110

International migration is a global phenomenon that is growing in scope, complexity and impact. Migration is both a cause and effect of broader development processes and an intrinsic feature of our ever globalizing world. While no substitute for development, migration can be a positive force for development when supported by the right set of policies. The rise in global mobility, the growing complexity of migratory patterns and its impact on countries, migrants, families and communities have all contributed to international migration becoming a priority for the international community.

the situation today

In 2013, the number of international migrants worldwide reached 232 million, an increase of 57 million, or 33 per cent, compared to 2000. Most international migrants reside in the developed regions (59 per cent). Europe hosts the largest number of international migrants (72 million), followed by Asia (71 million) and Northern America (53 million). About 3.2 per cent of the world population are international migrants, compared to 2.8 per cent in 2000. 6

Between 1990 and 2013, the North gained a larger number of international migrants compared to the South. Some 2.3 million migrants were added annually in the developed regions, compared to 1 million in the developing regions. Asians and Latin Americans living outside of their home regions form the largest global diaspora groups. In 2013, Asians represented the largest group, accounting for about 19 million migrants living in Europe, some 16 million in Northern America and about 3 million in Oceania. Migrants born in Latin America and the Caribbean represented the second largest diaspora group with the majority, 26 million, living in Northern America. In 2013, South Asians were the largest group of international migrants living outside of their home region. Of the 36 million international migrants from South Asia, 13.5 million resided in the oil-producing countries in Western Asia. International migrants originating from Central America, including Mexico, represented another large group of migrants living outside their home region. About 16.3 million, out of 17.4 million Central American migrants lived in the US.

Countries with the largest number of international migrants, 2000 and 2013 (millions) United States of America

35 11 12

Russian Federation

10 9

Germany Saudi Arabia United Arab Emirates

5 8

United Kingdom

France

8 Canada

Australia Spain

4 2

One further trend which has been observed is the number of people emigrating from crisis-hit countries, particularly Spain and Greece. Research from the Migration Policy Institute suggests there is evidence of higher numbers of citizens of southern countries now living in other EU Member States. This is substantiated by government statistics demonstrating such emigration represents relocation to other parts of the EU (rather than non-EU destination countries) and also data indicating Germany has received a boost in workers from southern Europe. There are also historic networks that influence the flows. For instance, African migrants prefer moving to France as they know the language and might obtain benefits and aids as an ex-french settlement. Romanian and Bulgarian nationals demonstrate interest in moving to Italy or Spain based on the existing expatriate

8 7

International migrant stock by major area, 1990 , 2000 and 2013 (millions)

Europe

Asia

The emergence of increased migration for non-work reasons

North America

replaces just economically led migration nowadays. This could be an interesting area to watch in the future. Another impetus for migration in the longer term may well be climate change: coastal and riverine/flood plain populations may seek new homes as a result of extreme storms and sea-level rise, or their threat; agricultural business owners and workers may need to shift locales to keep cash crops alive (eg, French vintners moving to England); or the elderly seek respite from rising temperatures, for reasons of health.

Africa

Main tendencies are East-West direction and emigrating from crisishit countries, particularly Spain and Greece. Not surprisingly, labour migration is far more widespread in the three smaller Eastern Partnership economies (Moldova, Georgia, Armenia) than in oil-rich Azerbaijan, Belarus, or Ukraine. In Moldova (and probably in Georgia, too), migration was largely driven by deteriorating employment and income-earning opportunities in rural areas. By contrast, the rapidly growing oil sector in Azerbaijan and urban centres in Belarus and Ukraine have attracted large number of internal migrants.

19 16 16

Latin America and the

7 7

Caribbean Oceania

72 71

50 50

5 5

why and where?

Ideas about the legal and the political accomodation of ethnic diversity - commonly termed â&#x20AC;&#x153;multiculturalismâ&#x20AC;? - emerged in the West as a vehicle for replacing older forms of ethnic and racial hierarchy with new relations of democratic citizenship.

A key component of current EU immigration in its current form is promoting the integration of third country nationals. It is not an easy task to perform, indeed, a IPSOS global survey indicated that (across a range of

intended beneficiaries because it has failed to address the underlying sources of their social, economic, and political exclusion and has contributed to their social isolation. As a result, even the center-left political movements that initially championed multiculturalism, such as the social democratic parties in Europe, have shifted to a discourse that

struggling for rights

The social-democratic discourse of civic integration differs from the radical-right discourse in emphasizing the need to develop a more inclusive national identity and to fight racism and discrimination, but it nonetheless distances itself from the rhetoric and policies of multiculturalism. The term post- multiculturalism has often been invoked to signal this new approach, which seeks to overcome the limits of a naive or misguided multiculturalism while avoiding the oppressive reassertion of homogenizing nationalist ideologies.

democracies toward the increased recognition and accommodation of diversity through strength of immigrant MCPs at three points in time: 1980, 2000, and 2010. Despite the political critique, the clear trend has been toward the expansion of MCPs over the past 30 years, including in the last ten.

“Migration, when governed fairly, can make a very important contribution to social and economic development both in the countries of origin and in the countries of destination,” said Mr. Wu Hongbo, UN Under-Secretary-General for Economic and Social Affairs. “Migration broadens the opportunities available to individuals and is a crucial means of broadening access to resources and reducing poverty.”

- Desecuritization of ethnic relations. Multiculturalism works best if relations between the state and minorities are seen as an issue of social policy, not as an issue of state security. If the state perceives immigrants to be a security threat (such as Arabs and Muslims after 9/11), support for multiculturalism will drop and the space for minorities to even voice multicultural claims will diminish. - Human rights. Support for multiculturalism rests on the assumption that there is a shared commitment to human rights across ethnic and religious lines. If states perceive certain groups as unable or unwilling to respect human-rights norms, they are unlikely to accord them multicultural rights or resources. Much of the backlash against multiculturalism is fundamentally driven by anxieties about Muslims, in particular, and their perceived unwillingness to embrace liberal-democratic norms. - Border control.

- Diversity of immigrant groups. countries rather than coming overwhelmingly from just one (which is more likely to lead to polarized relations with the majority). - Economic contributions. Support for multiculturalism depends on the perception that immigrants are holding up their end of the bargain and

When these facilitating conditions are present, multiculturalism can be seen as a low-risk option, and indeed seems to have worked well in such cases. Multiculturalism tends to lose support in high-risk situations where immigrants are seen as predominantly illegal, as potential carriers of illiberal practices or movements, or as net burdens on the welfare state. However, one could argue that rejecting immigrant multiculturalism under these circumstances is in fact the higher-risk move. It is precisely when immigrants are perceived as illegitimate, illiberal, and burdensome that multiculturalism may be most needed.

Even though politics and social organization still have problems in integrating other nationalities, immigrants continue to arrive and bring their

resource of raw material and inspiration. This cultural exchange started broadly in 1960s-1970s, after social attitudes to minorities has been changed. This is where the bottom-up model appeared, raised by Paul Blumberg in the late 70s, an opposite to the one designed by SImmel (where fashions come from elite and get spread among lower classes). He argues that the fashion standards set by upper or middle class do not outnumber than those created by authentic culture of different nationalities that immigrants bring with them. Mainly fashions have always existed, they are just rediscovered. Think of a collective name «rhythm and blues» under which many songs hit the music charts in the beginning of 2000. It has always been known to the music industry as a popular genre of music among the Afro-American groups, a modern adaptation of jazz. It was a niche market with artists devoting themselves to their audience hardly making both ends meet. After, suddenly, it has been «rediscovered» and turned into a huge trend, primarily in music, but also influencing fashion and the whole young society. 14

15 Western fashion world has adopted the beaded, feathery and kaleidoscopic designs of tribal culture and has integrated them onto every imaginable contemporary wear, from accessories to evening gowns.

culture and fashion

TREND ID

PLANET B

The evolution of fashion is a changing motion of developing and morphing trends. It is as unique and diverse as our rich planet is and we move from one place to another explore new visual languages, morphing culture and backgrounds, exactly like it happens in fashion with trends. This diversity brings a joyful shared cultural creativity if the new comers are respected and welcomed. Foreign cultures have always been a big source of inspiration. Though now it reaches the next level: people migrate, adopt, exchange these cultures with europeans. Therefore, the identified trend is about the way immigrants integrate in big developed cities, their perceptions of living here and the perspectives of interculturalism. Why ÂŤFutureÂť? First of all, immigrants search for a better future, move from the roots to the contemporary 18

native countries to reach this level of industrialization. And finally, as these communities still are not fully accepted by Western people, this concept, apparently, is believed to function when all the legal regulations and social programms work consistently for the safety of citizens.

Pistachio #93C572

Powder Blue #4997D0

Indian Red #CD5C5C

White #FFFFFF

colors

Asparagus #87A96B

Avocado #568203

Celestial Blue #4997D0

Hunter Green #355E3B

Persian Blue #0067A5

Dark Blue #00008B

Lava #CF1020

Dirty pink #CF1020

Raspberry #E30B5C

Light Grey #D3D3D3

Dark Grey #A9A9A9

Black #000000

SImple bold shapes that fit to the body. BOdy-scale geometry is the biggest statement. Bell shaps A new generation of fashion that is influenced by the global issues, entering in other areas of design as well. It reflects the sense of caring and activism. We continue to learn and explore the world that will make us flourish and grow in the stimulating international environment.

This is a new world brew: ancient crafts and ethnic characteritics are to be revised and reconfigured. The rich cultural craft examples is not just raw and rustic: it has a level of modern sophistication and diverse creativity. We share knowledge, skills and ideas, learning and making together. It is a brighter life coming from the wider communities. Traditional patterns and techniques are coming under the spotlight once more and, when transformed by contemporary technologies, they enrich our lives in a new fresh way. The twist is in a combination of clean graphic lines with contrast of handcrafted. Color is used in a powerful display transmitting an ultra tactile and striking effect. Sporting brights with the emphasis on rich earth-toned ochres, outlined in black and white. The story is rich in geometric pattern and blocked colors, inspired by journeys to the sacred places of the Earth. From the vibrant India to hot desserts of Africa. Bright mirrored geometrics are carefully engineered with cultural prints, resulting in a modern tribal style. Printed T-shirts and skirts add an edgy streetwear vibe. Shapes are simple to let the complex textiles breathe. Dropped waist silhouettes, trims and detailing, asymmetric and straight hems. The trend is not about traditional utilization of feature of foreign cultures. Cultural prints on a contemporary background of technical and modern fabrics.

Brand selection Based on the following criterias:

1) Cosmopolitan lifestyle 2) Fail to deliver contemporary fashion concept 24

3) Awareness is high, even if it is related to past success 4) The trend would be a positive change 5) Ability to invest in the development even if it has experienced financial troubles lately 6) Recently big changes has happened to the company

gianfranco ferreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Born in Legnano, Italy, he received a degree in architecture in 1969 at the Politecnico di Milano university. Ferre began his fashion career in 1970 by designing accessories, then worked as a raincoat designer in 1972-74. He started his own company Baila in 1974 and launched his signature collection for women in 1978. His first men's collection appeared in 1982, followed in 1986 by his first couture collection in Rome. Ferre became Stylistic Director of Christian Dior in Paris in 1989, when he was chosen by owner Bernard Arnault to replace Marc Bohan. In 1996, it was announced that Ferre would end his engagement with Dior with the Spring 1997 collection for the label. His own label is more relaxed and pared-down 26 than Dior. The Gianfranco Ferre label went into bankruptcy three years after the death of the founding designer in 2007. It has since continued to function under government-backed bankruptcy protection. The brand's name had been set to vanish into the footnotes of history before it was dramatically saved by a Dubai-based investor just in time for Friday's catwalk show in Milan. New owners are Abdulkader Sankari and his son Ahmed Sankari of the Paris Group, a fashion distributor and franchisee which runs 250 stores in the Middle East.

Style: Gianfranco Ferre pictures the women who wear his clothes as "in movement, dark-haired, scintillating and brilliant." He likes his women to be dressed in feminine curved lines, asymmetric or subtly restrained silhouettes. The brand became broadly cuffs, collars, and ruffles.

escada Escada Collection and Escada Sport, in addition to Escada Accessories specializing in bags and shoes and finally licenses that enable other

combinations of colour, texture and bespoke embroidery. The brand has had a long history with success and failures. After its pick of popularity in the 1980s, Escada's problems started with the death in 1992 of company founder and designer Margaretha Ley. Her husband, co-founder Wolfgang Ley, who had created the company's international expansion, couldn't stem its decline. The label failed to keep up with

designer. However, after only working for 2 years, Stolzenburg died in 1994. A Scotsman Brian Rennie took over as head designer. In 1995 it launched Escada sport, a line of more casual designs in keeping with the by now very well known and highly desired Escada aesthetic. It filed bankruptcy in August 2009, having failed to raise a total of 200 Million Euros that were outstanding bonds. In late 2009 the company 29 the major makeover and the company is going to change aesthetics of products and stores. The perfume arm of the business continues to be run in association with a number of well known perfumers that the label has developed a relationship with over the years. Escada nowadays creates must-have daywear for business and leisure to glamorous eveningwear. Apart from ready-to-wear, shoes, bags and famous perfumes, the product range offers ESCADA eyewear, home textiles, watches and jewelry. The ESCADA Group operates in 24 countries throughout North America, Europe, and Asia. With around 1,100 points of sale, ESCADA is present in 80 countries worldwide.

Style: Escada stands for modern elegance, glamourous and sensual femininity. The overall image is clear though it is still related to the past look in the minds of customers. Plus, the recent events badly effected the development of the brand and now we see each collection completely different fro another. But the last investors see possible prospectives and try out different directions of brand identity.

aquilano rimondi Aquilano was born in San Seveero di Puglia and studied at the Rome Fashion and Costume Academy, while Bologna-born Rimondi attended the Carlo Secoli Institute in Milan. In 1998 they met at Max Mara's design department, where Roberto had already been working for some years. In 2004 they founded the brand 6267 together. The name of their first brand, 6267, comes from the number Roberto's mother wrote on his tanks and shorts when he went to summer camps in Igea Marina. In 2005 they won the competition for young designers Who Is on Next?, promoted by Alta Roma and Vogue Italia. Thanks to this award, they presented their collections at Milan's fashion week. After working as artistic directors for Malo, in 2008 they were appointed creative directors of the maison Gianfranco Ferre. 30 The same year, strong with these important working experiences, they founded the brand Aquilano.Rimondi.

Style: The brand maintains a perfect balance between aggressive spirit and classic fashion; leather pencil skirt, structured The squeezed waist restores the proportions between sinuous shapes, wide hips and shoulders. The designers highlight the importance of jewellery, dark shades, but also vivid colours such as bright red, white, purple, with traces of gold. Nevertheless, the brand should apply radical and remarkable ways of developing their collections. The structure changes very slightly from one inspiration to another. The result could be loss of the target interest.

ISAAC MIZRAHI

years of operation. Chanel eventually tired of the mounting losses and pulled financing in October 1998, forcing the closure of the company after the Fall 1998 collection. From 1995 to 1997, Mizrahi also designed a diffusion line named "IS**C". This lower-priced line was meant to diversify the label from the very expensive Isaac Mizrahi collection, but it failed to gain traction and was shuttered in 1997. Mizrahi returned to fashion in 2002 when he began designing another diffusion collection, Isaac Mizrahi for Target. The line was an enormous hit, and soon spread to cover accessories, bedding, housewares, and pet products. Sales volume tripled over five years to over $300 million and introduced the designer to mainstream America. The line was discontinued in 2008 as Mizrahi left for Liz Claiborne. Mizrahi designed for Claiborne for only one year, 2009. Only a few minor departments stores, which were not found in major cities, carried Claiborne clothes. On December 2009, the Liz Claiborne website was closed and rumors abounded that the company was bankrupt and in serious debt. In 2011, Mizrahi sold his brand to Xcel Brands, Inc. Xcel Brands launched various categories under the Isaac Mizrahi New York, Isaac Mizrahi Jeans, and Isaac Mizrahi brands. Mizrahi remains a shareholder, creative director, and media personality for his namesake brand under Xcel.

Isaac Mizrahi is always devoted to the same style: cosmopolitan elegance, but he failed to establish a defined aesthetic or "Mizrahi Look". His inspirations brought him to opposite looks of the city chic: from futuristic sports to Hollywood casual. This was the main problem of his crisis after big success. Mizrahi was born in Brooklyn, New York, to an observant Jewish family that originated in Syria. His father gave him a sewing machine at the age of ten. At 15, he launched his own label, IS New York, with the help of a family friend. He attended Yeshivah of Flatbush, High School of Performing Arts, and the Parsons School of Design. Mizrahi presented his first collection in 1987 at a trunk show held by famed New York department store Bergdorf Goodman. The line immediately earned praise from fashion editors, prompting several top retailers to place orders. In 1992, the French fashion house Chanel bought a stake in the company and began to bankroll its operations. Despite continued critical acclaim, sales were inconsistent; Bloomingdale's executive Kal Ruttenstein stated that Mizrahi had "good years and bad years."

Loewe's story goes back to 1846, when a group of Spanish craftsmen opened a leather goods workshop in the most commercial district in central Madrid. It was in 1872 when Enrique Roessberg Loewe, a German craftsman specialized in leather working, arrived in Madrid and decided to join forces with the leather workshop owners and establish the brand. Enrique Loewe brought his precision and technique and Spain its sensuality, creativity and peerless expertise in leather. In 1905, Loewe became "Official Supplier to the Spanish Royal Crown," when Enrique Loewe Hilton was at the head of the house of Loewe, King Alfonso XII gave the family business the title of Supplier to the Royal House. Five years later, in 1910, Loewe had a reputation as the most luxurious and renowned boutique in Madrid and therefore began its expansion across the Spanish territory, opened a store in Barcelona. In 1934, Enrique Loewe Knappe took over the company. In 1945 the designer Perez de Rozas created models of bags in boxcalf, which soon became the brand's signature product. In 1963 Loewe began its international expansion, 34 opening a new boutique in London. Towards the end of the 1960s, Loewe marked the beginning of its international expansion.

In 1985, the scent Air Loewe was launched, which became a market leader and even today remains one of the most popular in the Spanish market. In 1987, Loewe reached an agreement with the luxury goods group LVMH to strengthen the international expansion of the firm. the brand. In 1997 the designer Narciso Rodriguez took over the women's Pret-a-Porter collection, and in 1998 Loewe held a fashion parade for the first time in Paris. In 2002, debuting his helm of the mark with his collection for autumn-winter 2003/04 and Jose Luis Creative Director. In September 2013, Irish-born fashion designer J.W. Anderson was made creative director of Loewe by Bernard Arnault, Chairman of LVMH.

Collections. That same year Vincente Vela created the classic Loewe monogram, under the name ÂŤLÂť . In 1979, the Napa collection appeared, designed by Renzo without structure.

LOEWE

Style: Loewe doesn't directly reference his style to the spanish culture, but to the way their women are: muses and icons, noticeable an mysterious, sensual and strong.The seductive touch of leather in every collection, suppleness and softness is now infused with modern glamour. Even though the brands is not among the first line innovators, it is still a succesful fashion house that can be proud of its heritage and craftsmanship.

Aquilano Rimondi and Loewe are still relevant on today fashion scene, but they should add a particular twist to their designs, otherwise customers might loose their interest. Though these brands do not have that sources as GF Ferre and Escada do for development of new directions. These brands were almost faded from the scene and suddenly they were bought by important enterpreneurs: a plain canvas to draw new ways. Changes in GF Ferre are more recent with a bigger player behind new investors: Paris Group. Moreover, the general image is more flexible to the suggested trend. Isaac Mizrahi had a huge success years ago thanks to the American celebrities, but recently his designs do not correspond to the demands of contemporary fashion target anymore.

gianfranco ferreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

escada

THe latest collection by Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron is another interpretation of a classical Ferre look with drpes, cuts and assymetrical hems. The same for the colour palette: white, beige and black that we have already seen dozens of times on the catwalk. The evolves each season with more innovative fabrics and techniques which is natural for every fashion house. But the brand cannot survive with the same kind of collections each season, for the same type of a dress if she already has one. Ferre definitely needs a radical change. To start the brand has to adopt a completely different direction, something unexpected and definitely trendsetting to attract the innovators: young customers interested in fashion, people working inside this industry and hip celebrities. Nevertheless, as the collection is pretty much plain, is might be a white canvas to become an amazing artwork.

Escada does not look like heading in the right direction. Probably the vision of the recent buyers of the brand is not consistent enough with what a fashion house has to propose in order to obtain attention and new target. If the company failed with a similar concept there definitely was a wrong thinking. THe latest collections, unfortunately, will not be adopted by innovators. The brand image is very saturated and very difficult to manage. Collections can not be seen as one thing, but as separate looks. There may be future for this brand if a very talented designer will make an Escada revolution, but for it does not seem to have any breaking perspectives.

gianfranco ferreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

THE STORY On 15th August 1944, Gianfranco Ferre was born in Legnano, in northern Italy. He was raised by his mother, a widow of an engineer, and two aunts, who were heavy perfectionists. In 1967, he qualified as an architect in Milan, and supported himself by making belts while at college. AIn 1967, Ferre studied to become an architect, while making belts on the side to support his studies. He later studied at the Milan Polytechnic Institute for a degree in architecture. Ferre started working in 1969 designing for a furniture company. Later he made some jewellery for a girlfriend which was noticed by the owners of a boutique in Portofino, and he started designing jewellery for Walter Albini, a successful designer specilized in silk and luxurious fabrics, and Christiane Bailly. Ferre also started working as a freelance designer, collaborated with Lagerfeld and Fiorucci. Three years (19770-1973) Gianfranco spent in India, where he had been sent to study the crafts. The dazzling country with all its crafts, 42 traditions and colour schemes, had a big influence on him. In 1973, on his return to Italy, Ferre met Franco Mattioli, who had a faltering clothing house. Ferre agreed to do the design work for Mattioli and in 1974 brought out the first womens ready-to-wear collection for

Two years later in 1986, his first couture collection was presented to the world of high fashion in the city of Rome. Ferre met with immediate success as buyers and the press were wowed by his bold collection of elegant and sophisticated fashion. The same year he launched a new line Studio 00l, a fur collection Fourrures and was made Commander of the Italian Republic by the President of Italy. Ferre consistently veered away from trends, publicity stunts, and stylistic gimmicks preferring instead to rely on the appeal and interest of careful designs and balanced forms for his collections. Starting from 1983, Ferre was awarded several times over in the fashion industry for his great talent and magnificent contributions to fashion.

1989.

Gianfranco Ferre at Dior

1989 for the Haute Couture collection presented in Paris. He managed to capture the traditional Dior spirit and interpret it in a modern fresh manner, while retaining the elegance and attention to details that define haute couture. However, in 1996, Ferre decided to end his contract

new brand with Franco Mattoli. In 1978, he presented womens ready-to-wear. Ferre fashion immediately took on a look of simple lines creating a bold and distinctive look that became recognizable as a Ferre creation.

After leaving Dior Gianfranco Ferre introduced his own Jeans line. In 1997, he opened a Jeans Boutique in Rome, Milan and Geneva.

Gianfranco Ferre: The End of an Era brought their creator to fame and fortune. His architectural background had a significant impact on Ferre designs.

In 2002, Gianfranco Ferre SPA became part of IT Holding, though Ferre remained the creative director of the brand.

In 1983 he became the founding professor of fashion at the Domus Academy in Milan and the following year started a three year succession

Ferre continued to carry the brand forward until 2007, when he tragically succumbed to brain haemorrhage at the age of 62. In a statement intellectualism and artistry upon which he based his fashion philosophy until the end.Âť

the heritage Although Ferre was dealing mainly with the design, he was fully aware of the necessity of effective interaction between the activity of the designer and the manager, between the emotions and the material production. An artist and entrepreneur, Ferre put his mind and heart into details of design, marketing as well as advertising. He had an impressive sense of responsibility, which made him an icon in his field.

legacy before his death in 2007. His collection expanded from the original Gianfranco Ferre, the main line for men, women to more specialized range such as Ferre, the more casual line also known as the White Label, Ferre Red, especially designed for plus size consumers, Ferre Fur and Ferre Underwear for men. He also came up with GF Ferre for the younger market and Gianfranco Ferre Fragrances perceived to compete with 45 Jeans Line. experiences: innovative processes, state-of-the-art treatments, resolutive cuts, original solutions. In a few words, these are the reasons due to which any work, of any collection including those from the past, reveal the relieving dimension of the attained confidence and the implemented

Key Executives For Gianfranco Ferre Spa

The brand was subsequently put under the creative direction of Lars Nilsson, who presented the autumn/winter 2008-9 menswear, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi became the creative directors of Ferre womenswear.

Name

Title

Franco Mattioli Ahmed Sankari Lars Nilsson

Co-Founder President of Gianfranco Ferre Label Creative Director

Gianfranco Ferre Spa Board Members*

contemporary femininity.Their designs are rigorous, their feel for quality infallible. These characteristics correspond exactly to what

has given the fashion world new hope that the House of Gianfranco Ferre would live up to its illustrious name in the years to come. It seemed promising, but they struggled to find the right approach over several seasons of experimentation. (They tried minimal

Name

Primary Company

Tonino Perna Massimo Macchi

Gianfranco Ferre Spa Guess' Europe, B.V.

At Milan Fashion Week the same year the fashion house saved from bankruptcy this month by Dubai-based retailers Paris Group. The Dubai-based Sankari family behind Paris Group, a retailing and restaurant empire, plans a three-year turnround of the brand, investing Group has more than 250 boutiques across the region, with brands including Gianfranco Ferre, Versace, Cerruti and Pierre Cardin. The group also has a food and beverage division, Sankari Hospitality, whose outlets include Fauchon, Biella, Chop Chop and Al Halabi.

elaborate tailoring. the designers were included in the announcement. No replacements have yet been named, and the label is not planning to show a Fall/Winter 2014 collection at Milan Fashion Week in February.

the situation today

Gianfranco Ferre Spa offers smart casual and special occasion clothes and accessories as well as travel goods, home furnishings, watches, and urbanwear, mainly denim products. Both lines are poritioned in a more affordable part of the market.

One of the garments with which he is always connected, is the white blouse. He is renowned for the way he sculpts white cotton, silk, or his favourite organza into so many shapes. He has taken the white shirt and made it his own, elevating it far above a humble shirt. He uses beaded cuffs, lace ruffles, collars is never the same yet always unmistakable. It may be light and floaty, flawlessly severe (if the mannish cut remains), as sumptuously enveloping as a cloud, as skinny and snug as a bodysuit. Some parts, primarily collar and cuffs, can

great supporter.

Harmony, geometry, flowing silhouettes, volume and fullness, classic yet modern, are some of the expressions used to describe the creations of Gianfranco Ferre. His pieces have always been recognisable among many others and recent designers, if not very successful, were able to mantain Ferre look in the latest collections.

Gianfranco Ferre pictures the women who wear his clothes as "in movement, dark-haired, scintillating and brilliant." He likes his women to be dressed in feminine curved lines, asymmetric or subtly restrained silhouettes. His garments are usually graphically created in strong shapes and bright colours. Highly sensitive to form and outline, Ferre shows collections that bear the hallmarks of one whose early training was in the careful study of detail, in analysis and in planning. His intellectual approach to design, produces powerful and controlled clothes which are often folded and layered to create his precise statements. Ferre has become noted for his expert use of stark colours, especially red, black, white and gold, and his extravagant use of luxurious fabrics such as fur, leather and taffeta.

offer and STYLE

The brand image is weak and most customers around the world associate it to unmistakable style that can be applied to different occassions. These aspects

and attract the ideal group of customers. It has to get adopted to what the customers are looking for and go even above, to what they are not expecting or not aware about by now.

Gianfranco Ferre is distributed worldwide in mono brand boutiques and department stores. The brand can be found in fashion districts of biggest capitals and in major department stores in Austria, Azerbaijan, Bulgary, China, Estoniam France, Germany, Greec, Italy, Japan, Korea, Lebanon, Malaysia, Monaco, Qatar, Russia, Spain, Switzerland, Taiwan, Turkey, Ukraine, United Arab Emirates, United Kingdom, USA, Vietnam.

distribution AND PRICING strategies Luxury price positioning

Each point of sale has the same design that delivers a consistent brand image and makes it recognizable all over the world. Minimalist design is achieved through the same tools used in collections: clear geometrical shapes, monochrome colours, technical materials. Even though Gianfranco Ferre boutiques do not have any particular elements that can catch attention of tourists and shoppers passing by, the design and the representation of goods make an overall impression of a luxury boutique like many others in fashion districts. store design Unfortuantely, the future of these points of sale is not clear since Paris Group stated that the brand will not present the next collection (Fall/ Winter 2014 - 2015). 50 Regarding online retailers, Gianfranco Ferre was sold on Farfetch.com, Selfridges online store and Yoox.com. But now a small amount of the merchandise left can be found only on Yoox.com.

Strategical high pricing: creating a sophisticated image of a brand that is affordable only to a limited group of customers. It implies high quality, reliable performance and durability of the product, special service for the customers. Gianfranco Ferre does not apply below the market pricing, though mark-downs are used seasonally. Clearance prices during seasonal sales Prices are not advertised. 51 Gianfranco Ferre main line 200 - 1800 造

allows the brand to raise its awareness and make the brand, its DNA and offer achievable to general public. It also targets younger customers who might become the future buyers of the main line.

Gianfranco Ferre is definitely a womenswear designer, even though he launched a menswear line, he mentioned once that only women really inspire him and he enjoys underlining the female beauty with his creations. Throughout the years the designer was capable of creating clothes for ladies that are beautiful both outside and inside. At the golden age of Ferre cinema celebrities, important business ladies and female politicians used to wear his creations: Sophia Loren, Jacqueline Bisset, Gerard Depardieu, Barbra Streisand, Margo Hemingway, Jacques Chirac, Jean Seymour, Julia Roberts, Oprah Winfrey and many others. Regarding the today situation, the brand is not an innovator anymore and is not desirable by the show business stars.

The actual customer who buys Gianfranco Ferre is a middle-aged woman who is not interested neither in «labeled» nor in highly fashionable clothes. She 53 definitely knows that this brand cares about quality and details, it has a long history of a successful fashion house and she can rely on it. She might live both in a city and in suburbs, in her own house, and she goes shopping to the central fashion district. She has a high income so she can afford whatever clothes she likes. This woman is not a heavy shopper and she might search for a special occasion dress and choose a Ferre one. The brand offers a range of different sizes and the clothes can fit different types of body.

«In principle I do not care about women’s age”, the designer says sincerely. “I am interested in her natural features. I have never been able to design, imagining for example a dummy or something unreal. I work having in mind the woman of nowadays – busy, active, purposeful… A woman for whom to look well is important.»

Two main target groups of different ages but with similar lifestyles can be defined

TARGET

AGE

38-55

GENDER

Female

RESIDENCE

Appartments in big cities or houses in suburbs

MARITAL STATUS

Married

OCCUPATION

Senior position in different fields, from politics to law

AVERAGE INCOME

High stable income that com High quality, durable products. comfort, best materials. Heritage, tailoring

INTERESTS

Family, career, friends, outdoors activities, reading, sports, cinema, arts, travelling, housekeeping, cooking

FAVOURITE BRANDS

Ralph Lauren, Tommy hilfinger, Max Mara, Burberry, Armani, Gucci, Donna Karan, Louis Vuitton (accessories), Hugo Boss, Ermenegildo Zegna, Michael Kors Frequent shoppers, but mainly go shopping having a specific need in mind. They need to feel good-looking and comfortable in clothes at the same time. Pieces they choose have to fit to their own style and occasion of use

PURCHASE BEHAVIOUR BRAND LOYALTY

Medium

PRICE SENSITIVITY

Low to medium

LOCATIONS OF SHOPPING

Shopping districts and department stores where theycan find everything they need.

GF FERRE PERCEPTIONS AND EXPECTATIONS

GF Ferre in their opinion pays attention to quality and details, it has a long history of a successful fashion house and she can rely on it. It is sometimes experimental for them, but stays in possible limits, so they hardly mistake.

AGE

56-65

GENDER

Female

RESIDENCE

Suburbs and countryside big family houses

MARITAL STATUS

Married with children

OCCUPATION

Pensioner with stable economic situation, own business

AVERAGE INCOME

Stable high income, savings

INTERESTS FAVOURITE BRANDS

Leisure activities, acquaintances and friends, shopping, family, travelling, housekeeping, interior, gardening, cooking, reading, press, health and well-being, elite sports Loro Piana, Hogan, Ralph Lauren, Brunello Cucinelli, Kiton, Brioni, Hugo Boss, Giorgio Armani

PURCHASE BEHAVIOUR

Not very frequent shoppers; shop together with their friends or family; like intmate atmosphere, attentive and understanding personnel; appretiate details: packaging, after-purchase service

BRAND LOYALTY

Medium

PRICE SENSITIVITY

Low

LOCATIONS OF SHOPPING

Shopping districts and department stores where theycan find everything they need.

GF FERRE PERCEPTIONS AND EXPECTATIONS

Appreciate high quality, valuable products of the brand. Heritage and a big story behind, as well as the origins of products and the brand have a big influence on purchases. They will buy what makes them feel elegant and aristocratic, comfortable and appropriate

PROMOTION

PHYSIQUE

Exclusivity Respect and consistency Best service Self-esteem

Sophisticated Exquisite Seductive

ITY

LA TIO N

Distinguished Italian chic throughout all campaigns Architectural theme is frequently used in the campaigns Focus on brand's image, not its offerring Passion for editing with saturated colors and low brightness Celebrities and top models are not used anymore Advertising, as well as an overall image is not relevant to what ÂŤhipÂť fashion is about today

Luxury and bridge collections Women's apparel and accessories Architectural shapes and elements brought into clothes Boutiques that reflect the sense of luxury and privacy

IO CT

E FL RE

PRISM

Middle aged high-society women with exquisite taste that appreciate heritage and traditions of the brand.

SELF-IMAGE Driven by inner passion Understated sophistication Distinguished

CU LT UR E

Traditions and Heritage Italian craftsmanship The "PERSON" (G.F. Ferre) Fashion as a form of art

Strengths

Brand awareness Heritage and past success Big impact in the history of fashion Timeless style

Opportunities

Weaknesses

Weak brand image Recent critical situation in the company Low level of innovation Brand buyers are not trendsetters anymore The style is not as distinctive as it as in the past Threats

COMPETITORS

Gianfranco Ferre Can be easily adopted to upcoming trends Competitive industry As big changes have happened to Ferre it is the right Things change rapidly in the industry so moment for rebranding of an overall strategy Ferre has the time limits to realize the plans The market offers different directions of development Changes in customers' taste that the brand can obtain (product lines, company structures, European crisis (brand manufactures in Italy) marketing and communication strategies) The big name guarantees an ease in communication of the offer.

SWOT

AQUILANO.RIMONDI

COSTUME NATIONAL

Womens Ready-to-wear 350¤ - 2000 ¤

Women's Ready-to-wear main line; Men's Ready-to-wear 180¤ -1900 ¤

Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi met at Max Mara's design department in 1998 and after a few years of working together, decided to found their own brand, called 6267, in 2005. They won the competition for young designers Who Is on Next?, promoted by Alta Roma and Vogue Italia. Thanks to this award, they presented their collections at Milan's fashion week.

C'N'C Women's diffusion line 90¤-470¤

After working as artistic directors for Malo, in 2008 they were appointed creative directors of the maison Gianfranco Ferre. Quite curiously they both had met Gianfranco Ferre before being appointed creative directors of his brand. Roberto says: "I did lots of job interviews with him. Every time seemed the right one, but the ultimate phone call never arrived". Tommaso tells a different story: "When I was 23, I worked backstage at one of his fashion shows in Rome. I was the snow operator, the one with bags of polystyrene snowflakes in front of wind-machines. Unfortunately, I was set against the wind. Snow was never seen on the runway, but I was 62 covered with it." The same year, 2008, strong with these important working experiences, they founded the brand Aquilano. Rimondi. "We like technique, tailoring," Roberto says, and this is fundamental to understand the strong points of their style: incredible attention to details, volumes and cuts, research on fabrics and hand-craft approach to the creation of clothes. Their last work at Ferre had a big influence on the designers. In fact Tommaso and Roberto state that they are always inspired by great designers of the XX century: Gianfranco Ferre, Pierre Cardin, Elsa Schiaparelli, Paul Poiret. "When you look at the great masters you appreciate and respect the work of those who did better than you", explains Tommaso.

Ennio Capasa, after having graduated at the Artistic College of his home town, Lecce, and having completed his studies at the Brera Academy of Milan, left on a trip to Asia. In Tokyo he met the designer Yohji Yamamoto, thus becoming his assistant for about two years. Thanks to this experience, the Italian designer learned the fashion basics. Ennio actually started out as an interior designer. He loves architecture and aesthetics, and associate of Romeo Gigli), in 1986 he founded Costume National and became its creative director. First womenswear collection was presented in Milan the same year. Between 1995 and 1998 the fashion house opened stores in Milan, New York, Rome, Los Angeles and Paris. Over the following three years the company extended its range of products to include perfumes, eyewear, ready to wear apparel and footwear, plus accessories at lowerr prices. The production facilities are located in Italy, while the distribution has a worldwide network. The brand is very active socially. Ennio Capassa has collaborated with Ducati, Absolut Vodka and presented

t-shirts supporting the Climate Project in 2008, solar bags (with panels supplying power to digital accessories) Aquilano.Rimondi designs are always structured to the shape of the female body, refined and balanced. They represent a woman who is seductive, but never vulgar: with bodycon shapes and a pencil skirt in every collection. Roberto deals in greater detail with the technical/commercial side of their project, Tommaso especially with creative inspiration and communication. The creative process, however, is always carried out as a team.

Pantone colours and futuristic silhouettes.

His passion to architecture and interior design, just like the one of Gianfranco Ferre, is also reflected in these lines. Indeed, asymmetrical, but straight and balanced cuts are the common signature of both designers. However, there are no signs of excessive abstraction. His designs, sexy and sophisticated, must be always wearable. He created the term

VIONNET

collection is black, that during the years has been matched with wider and wider colours palette, but always in moderation.

Womens demi-couture line ¤10000 - ¤30000

The designer is famous worldwide, and has created clothes for many celebrities, such as Cameron Diaz, Tom Cruise, Jude Law, Nicole Kidman and Scarlett Johansonn.

FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO Womens Ready-to-wear collection 150¤ - 1200¤

Raised in the heart of Neapolitan culture, Francesco Scognamiglio opened his first fashion house following 64 graduation from the Naples College of Design in 1998. However, it was in 1994 that the designer found great success in meeting Dontaella Versace in Naples with whom he began a friendship and working relationship that lasted for five years. His debut with his first couture collection was in July 2000, in Rome.It was in March 2001, however, that Francesco made his debut on the catwalks of the Milano fashion week, where his eponymous collection had a huge success among the international journalists. In a few years he gained such clients as Madonna, Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Elisa and top models such as Carmen Kass. The ready-to-wear collections are produced by a private label from Bergamo, Kabi SRL(from spring 2008). The brand continues to expand internationally and already has important clients around the world. Francesco Scogniamoglio designs are often characterised by a strange dichotomy between research, experimentation and avant-garde inspirations on one side and the traditional Italian tailoring school on the other. Like Ferre always did, he carefully uses unexpected silhouettes and fabrics, maintaining an image of a seductive and sensual woman. The designer doesn't aim to shock the public, but rather make his character distinctive.

Womens Ready-to-wear ¤540 - ¤5000

Madeleine Vionnet is best-known today for her elegant Grecian-style dresses and for introducing the bias cut to the fashion world, she was called the «the architect among dressmakers». Madeleine Vionnet was born in 1876 in a poor family in Chilleur-aux-Bois, Loiret. Since she was a child, she showed a great passion for geometry. She began her apprenticeship as a seamstress when she was 11. Vionnet worked in Paris and after a brief marriage at age 18, she left her husband and went to London to work as a hospital seamstress. Vionnet eventually returned to Paris where she started to promote new ideas. She worked first with the famous Callot Soeurs and later, in 1907, with Jaques Doucet, who called her to modernize his production. Vionnet eschewed corsets and trimmed hems, but she founded her first fashion house, but she was forced to close it two years later due to the onset of the First World War.The House of Vionnet grew to employ over 1,100 seamstresses and was the first fashion house to create ready-to-wear collections for sale in the United States. The design of her garments was inspired by ancient Greek art, but their secret structure was inspired by

allowed her to avoid seams and to create garments that clung to the shape of the body. She invented a «bias» cut to make dresses that fit tightly at the waist and flare out into a bell-shape skirt. of the female form revolutionized modern clothing and the success of her unique cuts assured her reputation. She fought for copyright laws in fashion and employed what were considered revolutionary labor practices at the time - paid holidays and maternity leave, day-care, a dining hall, a resident doctor

Vionnet closed her house when the Second world war started and did not reopen it after the war. She died at the age of 99 in 1975. Till the end of her life, she continued to monitor and comment on haute couture, she became famous for and is remembered as one of the greatest designers of all time nowadays.

PRICE Seventy years after the house was closed Matteo Marzotto and Gianni Castiglioni reacquired her brand, attracting a great number of celebrities. authenticity updated by the couturier since 1922. In the autumn of 2011 the collaboration between Vionnet and Paglialunga came to an end. The designer has been replaced by Barbara e Lucia Della Croce who are the new creative directors of the label. They have worked for Miu Miu, Ralph Lauren and Ter et Bantine. Later chair of Vionnet, Goga Ashkenazi, has taken full control of the French brand in May 2012, becoming the major stakeholder. The associates. Ashkenazi now owns 100 per cent of the label. Feedbacks on the latest fashion shows vary: somebody says she is revolutionizing 66 affordable but use the same couture techniques,» she said. Through eliminating «the endless fittings» and selling by size with a single fitting at the end. The pieces will go from $10,000 to $30,000, rather than the hundreds of thousands of dollars that true made-to-measure creations can sell for at other houses.

VIONNET AQUILANO RIMONDI GIANFRANCO FERRE’

COSTUME NATIONAL FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO

FASHION

THE PROPOSAL

Interculturalism is not a novelty in fashion : designers have always been attracted by foreign cultures. But the proposed trend is a a completely new approach that deals also with migration regulations, tolerance, human rights. It is all about respecting each other, co-existing of people and cultures. As the melting pot takes place in big cities urbanism is another issue added to the mix. To launch the collection successfully similar offers or patterns existing on the market have to be analyzed. The proposal, patterns, colours and motives of different origins, put together on a bold futuristic pattern (the city scene) , is difficult to find among the existing brands. Though the combination of Ferre values and strategy and the planned directions for the new collection allows to narrow to a smaller segment of market. As analyzed, Gianfranco Ferre is positioned in the luxury to bridge (diffusion line) segment of fashion market, it is famous all over the world and is distributed in major world capitals. The target market will be shifted to innovators, as it is an upcoming trend which is not diffused at the moment. The catalyst will be the product itself: it will push critics and trendsetters tight from the fashion show to the social media and masses.

RESPECT CO-EXISTENCE URBANISM

To sum up, the possible competitor has to: 70

71 be a contemporary luxury or designer fashion brands be Known in the fashion industry be selectively distributed around the world target innovators research and surprise design ultimate and forthcoming urban and casualwear

COMPETITOR: CELINE

COMPETITOR: KENZO

Celine is a French luxury house founded in 1945 by Celine Vipiana. Today, it is an international luxury goods brand owned by LVMH, purchased in July 1988 for $540 million.

Kenzo Takada is a Japanese fashion designer. He is also the founder of Kenzo, a worldwide brand of perfumes, skincare products and clothes. Kenzo's first designs started because he could only afford to buy his fabrics from flea sales. As a result, Kenzo had to mix many bold fabrics together to make one garment. Kenzo's success started in 1970: during this year he presented his first show at the Vivienne Gallery; his first store, "Jungle Jap" was opened; and one of his models appeared in the cover of ELLE. His collection was presented in New York and Tokyo in 1971. The next year, he won the Fashion Editor Club of Japan's prize. Kenzo proved his sense of dramatic appearance when, in 1978 and 1979, he held his shows in a circus tent, finishing with horsewomen performers wearing transparent uniforms and he himself riding an elephant. His first men's collection was launched in 1983. In 1988, his women's perfume line began with Kenzo de Kenzo (now known as 73 Sent Beau), Parfum d'ete, Le monde est beau and L'eau par Kenzo. Kenzo pour Homme was his first men's perfume (1991). FlowerbyKenzo, launched in 2000, has since become a flagship fragrance for the Kenzo Parfums brand. In 2001, a skincare line, KenzoKI was also launched. The brand entered in the portfolio of LVMH in 1993. After the retirement of Takada, in 1999, the brand was in a stand-by until Antonio Marras took over in 2003. The house continued its existence but without any remarkable collections. In July, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, the founders of trendy boutique Opening Ceremony, were named creative directors. They brought

Celine was originally created as a made-to-measure women's shoes and accessories. The ready-to-wear line from 1945-1997. American fashion designer Michael Kors was named director for Celine in 1997. During his tenure at Celine, accessories and a critically acclaimed ready-to-wear line. Roberto Menichetti was named creative director. After a designer Ivana Omazic. Omazic was a former consultant 72 Prada, Jil Sander, and Miu Miu. On September 4, 2008 Bernard Arnault, president of director of Celine. Philo started at Celine in October 2008 for SS 2010 at Paris Fashion Week to rave reviews. Philo to transform this second league brand into an essential Luxe sportswear with couture-like finishing was, and

children's shoe business that eventually grew into debuted in the 1960s. Celine Vipiana was the designer

the women's ready-to-wear designer and creative Kors turned the fashion house around with blockbuster Kors designed for the label until 2004. Italian designer disappointing year, Menichetti was replaced by Croatian for the brand and previously worked with Romeo Gigli,

LVMH, appointed Phoebe Philo as the new creative and presented her first Celine ready-to-wear collection replaced Ivana Omazic, who, according to LVMH, failed flagship of worldwide pret-a-porter. an LVMH executive who briefly ran the company, told

values of the industry, she was, in fact, putting the emphasis back on the core fundamentals of Celine. She described to T: The New York Times Style magazine a quintessentially Parisian mood of bourgeoisie continues to charm

COMPETITOR: STELLA JEAN

Ever since her eponymous fashion label was set to orbit the international fashion sphere merely three years ago, Stella Jean has been

her collections have segued becoming her signature style.

eloquently into what is

Stella Jean is a young emerging of Caribbean origin, who brings from her unique background. "Enlightenment aesthetic" did win a contest sponsored by 74 on Next'.

fashion designer born in Rome to fashion lessons learned A family tradition devoted to the rest, helping the designer Vogue Italy AltaRoma: 'Who's

Her style reflects her heritage which old and new continents spirits are combined in a precious uniqueness. Through craftsmanship vibrate the beats look for a common thread in are reflections of life that draw faceted experience, which vary

and evokes Creole cultures in meet and their opposing femininity conscious of its the lines of Italian couture of a sensual elegance. Do not her collections, because they inspiration from the multiin their natural evolution.

Fashion should fit the creative and coherent state of the soul, always varying in an effort to remain the same. Stella has the particularity of approaching the creation of clothing directly, bypassing design. Stella's designs marry draping in the style of Vionnet with an understanding of the importance of shaping the dress directly on the body: "because the body has three dimensions, we cannot trust the paper."Creation is an experience of touch, smell and sound. Each sense is essential to the conversation between creator and creation.

TARGET

AGE

22-30

GENDER

Female

RESIDENCE

Appartments in major cities and capitals

MARITAL STATUS

Single, just married

OCCUPATION

Students, junior positions in design, communication, fashion, journalism fields

AVERAGE INCOME

Medium to High, still supported by parents.

INTERESTS

Their occupation field is their biggest interest; innovations and technology, creativity, news, digital magazines, sports, friends, cinematography, music, travelling

FAVOURITE BRANDS PURCHASE BEHAVIOUR

Frequently purchase in small quantities, mainly during sales period. They also enjoy shopping abroad. Expect personnel to know as much as they do. See the store as a place both to shop and find out new things.

BRAND LOYALTY

Low

PRICE SENSITIVITY

Medium to high

LOCATIONS OF SHOPPING

Shop in different stores, from concept to multibrand and to vintage.

GF FERRE PERCEPTIONS AND EXPECTATIONS

Gianfranco Ferre is not really their favorite brand. They are never interested about it and never check it online. Big amount of promotion is needed to draw their attention.

AGE

30-40

GENDER

Female

RESIDENCE

Appartments in major cities and capitals, houses in suburbs

MARITAL STATUS

Married

OCCUPATION

Junior, senior positions in design, communication, fashion, journalism fields

AVERAGE INCOME

High

INTERESTS

Career, family, friends, news, creativity, outdoors activities, reading, cinema, arts, travelling, housekeeping.

FAVOURITE BRANDS

Celine, Saint Lauren, Balenciaga, Prada, Max Mara, Acne.

PURCHASE BEHAVIOUR

Purchase in big quantities, but do not have much time to shop. Clothes have big importance for them, identifying their status and personal style. They are aware about the latest news and trends in fashion.

BRAND LOYALTY

Medium to High

PRICE SENSITIVITY

Low to medium

LOCATIONS OF SHOPPING

Department and multibrand stores, monobrand boutiques.

GF FERRE PERCEPTIONS AND EXPECTATIONS

Gianfranco Ferre is an icon of Italian craftsmanship for them. Positive feedback related to past, now they are not interested in buying it. They will be curious to check the new capsule collection of Ferre.

Competitors developed their Spring/ Summer 2014 collections introducing day urban and casualwear. Even though the patterns are very loud they can be easily matched with basics or, instead, between each other to create a more extravagant look. Thanks to the simple and clean styles and cuts the collections are not overloaded. Therefore, target customers of these brands are more likely to see tops and bottoms in the collections as these items are "easy acquistions" that can be adopted in many occassions.These are the young people who need an item to be outstanding and easily conversible at the same time. Secondly, light outwear pieces are added to the mix. As these brands are distributed worldwide this product category becomes essential for the customers from the Northern countires. Soft accessories such as cotton belts and hair bands were introduced only by Stella Jean who was inspired by African culture. Though 81 they were pieces completing the looks, bot the weightful category of the collection. Regarding jewellery, bracelets and necklaces styles followed the clothes: Celine - color blocking and metal, Kenzo - plastic and futurism, Stella Jean - cotton and prints.

collections mix

Outwear and dresses are naturally the most expensive items for all brands. Kenzo is positioned on a lower price level as most of the items are made of polyester. Celine has the highest price positioning, besides they made a extended materials research and used combinations of fabrics and interesting finishings. Ferre has a similar positioning as the brand always uses luxurious fabrics like fine silk and cotton for Spring/ Summer collections. The expected pricing for the capsule collection is similar to the main one, with a slight difference, because the capsule does not have such exclusive pieces like maxi gowns and elegant coats. Basics will be positioned at a more affordable level than usual Gianfranco Ferre one(because the customer is younger and expects this kind of pricing strategy). Selling at market price Slighly lower than the brand pricing Initial mark up multiplicator: 2,5 Seasonal markdowns of 30% and 50%

pricing STRATEGY

As the trend is all about cultural mixes and diversity the major offer is multicolor and prints. Whereas Celine used a more balanced palette (puting together with the iconic beige, white, navy), Stella Jean had the whole color range. Madness of cultural mixes were presented by each brand in their own way in order to correspond with the target expectations. Prints with different motives, from geometrical to tribal and animalistic were used in all collections. For basics completing the offer several iconic colors and , mainly, white and black were used. A similar offer will be presented in Gianfranco Ferre capsule collection. Thanks to the unpcoming trends, the brand can freely use combinations of different prints and motives. The presence of the bleached white and black, as a both iconic and basic color, will be necessary to adjust looks 85 and be consistent with the brand identity. Jewellery corresponds to the colors and motives of apparel. Whereas Celine elaborated the classical metal bracelets, Kenzo introduced conceptual wire-like pieces. something that nobody has ever seen.

colors

A shift is predicted also in terms of merchandise offer: a lot of tops and bottoms, not only typical Ferre dresses. The target customer of the capsule does not really need overthought pieces, she has to mix them easily, adopting for different occasions. The collection is mainly based on seasonal trend items and is completed with a few garments of basic colors. There are two themes: nature and humanity. The concept corresponds to the main features of the trend: same aquamarine/green and avocado colors with coral and blue highlights. The collection is a mix of prints and colors put together on plain, sometimes geometrical (Ferre iconic) shapes. Garments can be easily matched between each other and create new looks. Even though the prints and motives are very distinctive and loud they can be applied for different occasions: for a more casual look with jeans, for a cocktail one with silk skirts of the same collection. The brand offers also a small line of fashionable jewellery, that can perfectly finish every look of the collection. Fine gold in modern design and highlights of bright stones can become a nice gift and definitely a favorite piece for ladies with different tastes and styles. Sizing is similar to the one usually offered by Gianfranco Ferre. Italian sizes running from 38 to 48 included. The last one is not produced for such garments as, for example, strech dresses and sleveless tops. Even though the new target clients are different from the ones that normally purchase Ferre, they might be curious to buy one of these trendy pieces. Colorful prints are not necessaily an obstacle in this case: instead, it is a trend of the upcoming summer. 86

87 Prices are affordable for both targets: with more aspirational pieces like t-shirts and skirts and the more exclusive ones-dresses and outwear. Even though sometimes capsule collections have different discount system than the main ones, this decision is mainly explained by the current siuation in Ferre. It can become a promotional tool to draw attention of younger clients who are also the main creators of blogging buzz. The master order includes the garments and jewellery pieces that transmit better the concept of the collection. The new interpretation of the famous white shirt of Gianfranco Ferre and a pencil skirt, the must-have of the season, are also a must-buys. Different sizes, depending on the fitting, are inluded in the mater order. Similar pieces in diverse sizes together cover the whole size range. The swimsuit and the b/w motorcycle jacket are optional (due to geographical conditions in different distribution regions).

CAPSULE COLLECTION OVERVIEW

The collection will be sold in the department stores in the major cities and fashion capitals, covering the main distribution networks of Ferre. It is achievable for the target living there and is more visible, due to the high traffics of the department stores. The choice is also based on the areas of concentration of interest in the trend (it is closely related to big multinational cities) and to the brand itself.

The special store display will be installed to draw attention. Neon lights in colors of prints, or picturing prints (depends on the budget) Clean lay-out Architectural shapes Technical materials Merchandse display based on themes Subdivision into looks

DISTRIBUTION

94 The approach this time is quality, not quantity. A medium-size capsule collection (40 pieces) came out of the master order. Buyers do not really purchase Gianfranco Ferre in huge quantities, therefore it is a realistic calculation.

be carried out during the period of the launch of the collection. Moreover, the collection is unique and remarkable both in terms of design and history of the brand. Further a small amount of merchadise is planned to be left due to the big discounts on the remaining merchandise

Forecast is positive and the collection is supposed to bring big profits and return the interest to the brand

BUDGET AND FORECAST

COLLECTION BOOK

INDEX COLLECTION SUMMARY................................................................................................................................................ 4-9 Brand statement............................................................................................................................................................ 4 Moodboard..................................................................................................................................................................... 5 Colors and Prints........................................................................................................................................................ 6-7 Materials..................................................................................................................................................................... 8-9 COLLECTION THEMES.............................................................................................................................................. 10-15 98 Nature...................................................................................................................................................................... 10-11 Humanity................................................................................................................................................................. 12-13 Future tribe............................................................................................................................................................. 14-15 lookbook.............................................................................................................................................................. 16-23 Product families................................................................................................................................................. 24-29 collection structure......................................................................................................................................... 30-35 Product categories.................................................................................................................................................. 30-31 Collection dimensions................................................................................................................................................. 32 Occasion of use........................................................................................................................................................... 33

Product portfolio..................................................................................................................................................... 34-35

POSItiONING ........................................................................................................................................................... 36-39 Growth relative to the previous season...................................................................................................................... 36 Seasonal statement..................................................................................................................................................... 37 Distribution information......................................................................................................................................... 38-39 collection overview........................................................................................................................................... 40-43 99 pricing overview................................................................................................................................................. 44-47 PRESENTATION IN THE STORE.................................................................................................................................. 48-51 lookbook reference and description.............................................................................................................. 51-70 MASTER ORDER....................................................................................................................................................... 71-72 LIST OF COLORS AND PRINTS......................................................................................................................................... 73 LIST OF MATERIALS....................................................................................................................................................... 74 RECOMENDATIONS........................................................................................................................................................ 75

brand statement New capsule collection by Gianfranco Ferre is inspired by an unexpected theme for this brand: interculturalism. It is launched in order to raise brand awareness and attract new target customer groups. It will bring the brand to a new level of innovation through fresh design and ideas. The proposal is about different cultures and nationalities integrating into a bigger community. This trend is irreversable: people migrate, adopt, exchange their backgrounds with others. The diversity brings a joyful shared cultural creativity if the new comers are respected and welcomed. Foreign cultures have always been a big source of inspiration. Though it was only a one-way exchange, or better - irresponsible usage of undeveloped regions. Therefore, the identified trend is about the way immigrants integrate in big developed cities, their perceptions of living here and the perspectives of interculturalism. Why ÂŤFutureÂť ? First of all, immigrants search for a better future, move from the roots to the contemporary 101 native countries to reach this level of industrialization. And finally, as these communities still are not fully accepted by Western people, this concept, apparently, is believed to function when all the legal regulations and social programms work consistently for the safety of citizens. The collection is divided into three themes: Nature and Humanity for apparel, Future tribe for jewellery. Only with attention to the first ones we can really create an integrated, tolerant and equal community in the future. Elaborated prints, attractive color palette, finest materials and Italian approach, regarding the craftsmanship Ferre stays on top. Jewellery is ezquisitely made of antique silver with semi-precious stones.

There is no planet B

A pearl of Italian fashion, Gianfranco Ferre is testing new directions of developement adhering to its heritage and experience. Starting with a smaller amount, capsule collection, the new owners of the brands try out the ways of conquering the market. The strategy is supposed to be changed in the next years, that has to be communicated also to the sales people working in the boutiques. They will be the first one to answer to the questions of surprised clients.

NATURE

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1. the phenomena of the physical world collectively, including plants, animals, the landscape, and other features and products of the earth, as opposed to humans or human creations; 2. the basic or inherent features, character, or qualities of something; 2.1 the innate or essential qualities or character of a person or animal; 2.2 inborn or hereditary characteristics as an influence on or determinant of personality; 2.3 archaic a person of a specified character. Oxford Dictionary characters. We are truly part of the earth, one with the universe with this continuous exchange. Technical progress, evolution of the mankind have to respect each other and our natural environment. It is especially relevant today as we experience the first signals of the distructive behaviour.. Awareness is not enough to survive. To survive we must practice being stewards of the earth and become keepers of our environment.

HUMANITY

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1. human beings collectively: 1.1 the state of being human: 2. the quality of being humane; benevolence: 3 (humanities) learning concerned with human culture, especially literature, history, art, music, and philosophy. Oxford Dictionary

respect, balanced co-existence. Whereas crowd is a saturated mass, we, the humanity have faces and characters, we are distinctive. Realising this is essential to avoid the cruelty. Why can not we feed poverty if we have money to start wars? A war is a consequence of disrespectful behaviour, of our unability to leave out the prejudice, to see that others are just like we are. Intercultural exchange can bring us to the next level, open new dimensions of evolution that has to be performed on a larger scale, not in terms of one country. There is no Planet B to escape. We are here and now.

FUTURE TRIBE

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Jewellery design is inspired by bringing diversity, both bio and cultural, together. Pieces resemble a systemized, ideal world of intercultural coexisting. This is the kind of the future we dream of: clean and organised. Seven stones, like seven continents, linked together into a bigger one, a future tribe. Multicolor stones are of the earthy and at the same time technical colors. This small jewellery line amazingly fits different types of outfits, not only the ones proposed by Gianfranco Ferre. Pieces are intirely made in Italy, that is famous for fine jewellery.

SWIMWEAR

DRESSES

BOTTOM

TOPS

JEWELLERY

OUTWEAR

example of a product description

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This business simulation based on real trends and environment illustrates also one of the ways a brand can recover from a critical situation. It is especially accute nowadays as we see many well-known historical fashion houses disappear. Better understanding of what, how and where to sell. Opinion leaders buying your product can be much more weightful than the quality of it. Indeed, like mentioned in the description of Kenzo above, this is what matters most right now. With the Internet and rapidly spreading word-of-mouth it is important to target innovators who start all this buzz. Brands that arrive in the middle may be successful, but not leaders anymore, as well as Ferre that used to one.

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COnclusion

Another important aspect to mention about this project is that it is done by a student, whose young and fresh vision of the market may open new angles to the brand. For example, in this project everything started from immigrants, the most ordinary thing for a citizen, that is appreciated as a source of inspiration only in contemporary art. But notice how many interesting outcomes this topic created in the fashion idustry. The opinion of someone who is living today on 360 degrees, the youth, could become a catalyst of new ideas for the industry. Seeing things outside the box is always very useful in understanding which steps to take next.

113

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Gianfranco Ferre

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Images

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