Critical Study by Olivia Dexter

Critical Study Olivia Dexter Fashion writing Level 6: Fashion Marketing C3495511 word count: 2034 1

List of images 1.Statista [Online Image]. Available from: file:///Users/oliviadexter/Downloads/study_id25515_magazine-industry-in-the-united-kingdom-uk-statista-dossier.pdf 2. Delayed Gratification [Online Image]. Available from: Magazine https://www.slow-journalism.com/ 3. Delayed Gratification [Online Image]. Available from: Magazine https://www.slow-journalism.com/ 4. The Gentle Woman [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.stackmagazines.com/product/gentlewoman-issue-18/ 5. The Gentle Woman [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.stackmagazines.com/product/gentlewoman-issue-18/ 6.ASOS magazine [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.theindustry.fashion/asos-marks-100th-edition-magazine-puts-sale-first-time/ 7.The Economist [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.magshop.co.nz/economist 8. Stylist magazine [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.newsstand.co.uk/256-Womens-Weekly-Magazines/13811-Subscribe-to-STYLIST-Magazine-Subscription.aspx 9.Air BnB magazine [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.wsj.com/articles/airbnb-teams-withhearst-on-magazine-guided-by-travel-sites-data-1493892000 10.Air BnB magazine [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.wsj.com/articles/airbnb-teams-withhearst-on-magazine-guided-by-travel-sites-data-1493892000 11.Air BnB magazine â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Daily Edit [Online Image]. Available from: http://aphotoeditor.com/2018/05/15/ the-daily-edit-airbnb-magazine-gabrielle-sirkin/ 12.Air BnB magazine â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Daily Edit [Online Image]. Available from: http://aphotoeditor.com/2018/05/15/ the-daily-edit-airbnb-magazine-gabrielle-sirkin/ 13. David Lloyld Pool Leeds [Online Image]. Available from: https://news.sky.com/story/boy-3-drowns-atdavid-lloyd-gym-swimming-pool-in-leeds-11340358 14. David Lloyld Blog [Online Image]. Available from: https://blog.davidlloyd.co.uk/?_ ga=2.135153718.620049092.1547401271-222142128.1547307361 15. Mens Health [Online Image]. Available from: http://www.hearst.co.uk/brands/mens-health 16. ASOS magazine [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.asos.com/asos-design/asos-magazine-uk-issue-party-18-starring-little-mix-and-noah-centineo/prd/11073670?clr=multi&SearchQuery=&cid=27919&gridcolumn=1&gridrow=1&gridsize=4&pge=1&pgesize=72&totalstyles=285 17. John Lewis Edition [Online Image]. Available from: http://www.johnbrownmedia.com/work/fashion/ john-lewis/ 18. Nathalie Gimson Instagram [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.instagram.com/nathaliebatesdesign/

19. Nathalie Gimson Instagram [Online Image]. Available from:https://www.instagram.com/nathaliebatesdesign/ 20. Nathalie Gimson Instagram [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.instagram.com/nathaliebatesdesign/ 21. Nathalie Gimson Instagram [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.instagram.com/nathaliebatesdesign/ 22. Kendal Jenner for LOVE [Online Image]. Available from: https://katiegrand.com/ 23. Gigi Hadid for LOVE [Online Image]. Available from: https://katiegrand.com/ 24. Lydia Garnett work for Soccer Bible [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.lydiagarnett.com/marcus-rashford/ 24. Lydia Garnett work for Soccer Bible [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.lydiagarnett.com/marcus-rashford/ 26. Katie Grand for LOVE [Online Image]. Available from: https://katiegrand.com/ 27. Katie Grand for LOVE [Online Image]. Available from: https://katiegrand.com/ 28. Katie Grand for LOVE [Online Image]. Available from: https://katiegrand.com/ 32. Patrick Waugh portfolio [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.boyostudio.com/ 33. Patrick Waugh portfolio [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.boyostudio.com/ 34. Patrick Waugh portfolio [Online Image]. Available from: https://www.boyostudio.com/ 35. Patrick Waugh instagram story [Online Image]. Available from: <https://www.instagram.com/patrickwaugh/?hl=en> 36. ELLE magazine September Issue [Own Image] 37. ELLE magazine September Issue [Own Image] 38. ELLE magazine September Issue [Own Image] 39. ELLE magazine September Issue [Own Image]

Contents 1. Critical reflection of Spoiled Nation 1.1 The future of editorial productions. 2.0 FMP proposal 1

2 7 11

2.2 FMP Proposal 2

2.3 Proposed Timeline for FMP

3.0 References

1.0 Critical Reflection of Spoiled Nation The concept of Spoiled Nation is a creative agency within which, students can work collectively to create digital and print content. The team l work collaboratively, with students who specialise in writing, designing, styling, and in photography. This diverse mix of strengths allowed the team to create exciting, innovative content across multi-media and print platforms. To successfully produce this content throughout the term, Spoiled Nation looked to replicate a real-life magazine production. To distribute the workload, adequately the team choose a new editor every week, with one editor working on the print production and the other on the digital side depending on their preference. The creative agency looked to emmulate industry-standard workflows, with weekly submissions, meaning it was essential students managed their workload correctly.

Future Innovation 1. Utilising the potential of InDesign As a creative agency Spoiled Nation have successfully created some high quality innovative, industry standard content. The majority of the content created by students was shorthand digital articles, opposed to long-form print content. The digital team choose to work on WordPress, which has a pre-formated system. Meaning students could upload their work easily, into a house style. Many of the students choose to work in this domain as this is where they are comfortable. However this limits the potential of the student, learning takes place when the student is intent on understanding the new material (Moon, 2004). By having the option to primarily, work on the platform they were comfortable in learning wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t challenged. In future during the print production of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Spoiled Nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; students should guide on-another helping each other to understand the software they are not familiar with. Allowing the student to progress, increasing their knowledge within production and challenging what they already know.

2. Magazine Concept The choice of magazine genre for Spoiled Nation had already been planned for the students. Consequently some students they had little interest in the magazine from the start. This in turn, leads to the creation of articles which show a lack of consideration and passion for the subject they have chosen to write about. Moon (2004) suggests that there are two approaches to learning: Deep and surface. The typical approach of a surface learner is to absorb information as is required for the task in hand. In contrast, the deep approach is characterised by an intention in the learner to understand the material, producing higher quality learning and higher quality material in turn. Students who usually create high-quality work but were uninterested by 5

the subject matter, appearing unmotivated by the task because they didn’t like the concept of Spoiled Nation. Herzberg (1959, p. 3) constructed a two-dimensional paradigm of factors affecting peoples attitudes towards work; he defined hygiene factors which create job dissatisfaction if not there and motivators which enrich a person’s job. Within this, he includes responsibility and advancement as a long term positive enforcement. In the future Spoiled Nation could look to consider giving the students greater responsibility in choosing the genre of the magazine, making them more engaged with the topic and motivated to create valuable content for the magazine and website.

3. Pre-planning The creative agency required students to develop print or digital content on a weekly basis over six weeks, creating a similar environment to that of an industry publication. However, some of the submissions throughout the six weeks were not of an industry standard. Due to students inability to effectively manage time, not allowing for enough time to plan and research articles correctly consequently submitting a lower standard of work to meet a deadline. “For progression to be made it is important that the learner is challenged in their material of learning and their ability to manage, increasingly complex situations” (Perry, 1970). Students should have adapted to the increased work with a better approach planning content in advance, ensuring they had enough time. Spoiled Nation could look to put in place better planning at the beginning of the term, strategically planning to ensure all content areas are covered, ideas are shared group discussion creating opportunity for student to collaborate and develop each other’s ideas, and discussion to ensure students are confidently creating content in both print/digital long-form/short-form.

4. Consistency issues Unlike in a business situation, Spoiled Nation had a different editor every week; this has lead to significant inconsistencies in the quality of work. Whittaker explains how the role of the editor is also managerial providing leadership. If Spoiled Nation had a specific person for print and digital the work would have been managed more effectively. Creating greater consistency throughout the development of the magazine and website (Whittaker, 2013).

1.1.The future of editorial publications Publishing as we know it today was born in the 18th century, the development of the printing press transformed the possibilities of the written word (Tucker, 2018). Magazines were quick to differentiate themselves from news and books, establishing themselves as forums for gentlemen editors and writers to deliver their opinions on subjects such as Fashion, Politics and Religion (Whittaker, 2008). The rise of glossies in the early 1920s saw the launch of some of the worlds most established titles such as Harpers Bazaar, Cosmopolitan and in 1916 Vogue which continues to maintain its position as a global â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Fashion Bibleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, now operating print and multi-media and more recently seeing success in its Youtube channel.

Today in the UK overall readership is declining, total print magazine sales in 2011 were 820million. Failing to 422 million readers in 2017, This has changed the way the industry operates, with many popular magazines such as Glamour changing to become a bi-annual release (Fernandez,2018). This change comes with the appointment of new Editor-in-chief Samantha Barry who specialises in attracting online audiences. Her goal is a new generating buzz and readership online to compete with fast-growing online start-ups like Refinery29 and Bustle.

Image 1. Declining magazine reader ship. Statista (2018)

The future of print production is uncertain, declining circulation figures for many popular consumer magazines, suggest the future is digital. Niche, Contract, Health & fitness and current affairs magazines, are however maintaining a growing competitive position (Thorpe, 2018). Politics and economics magazine, Prospect looks to provide a voice of authoritative factual information in the current unsettled political environment. Their magazine has seen a growth of 37.2% on the previous year; similarly, The Economist has also seen a 5% increase in circulation. STACK is an online Independent magazine subscription site, providing exposure for niche indie magazines such as The Gentle Woman and Migrant Journal. This change in demand is showing a trend towards slow journalism, allowing time for the best quality content to be developed.

Image. 2 & 3 Delayed gratification - a quarterly production dedicated to taking a more in-depth, informed look at world events. “Being the last to break the news can inform audiences in a way 24/7 news updates cant, (Orchard, 2018).” The magazine produces content in long-form, in-depth features and providing their team of freelance Image. 4 & 5

journalists opportunity to get to grips

The Gentle Woman

with articles.

A niche magazine for “purposeful modern women”. The magazine is “stuffed with profiles of powerful women, observant sartorial features and enlightening commentary (STACK, 2019)”

Image. 6, 7 & 8 - ASOS (2018), The Economist (2017), Stylist (2018) Magazines increasing in recent success: ASOS a quarterly free contract magazine given away for free to their most loyal customers, The Economist weekly ‘magazine-format newspaper’ and Stylist ‘Shortlist Medias’ free magazine.

Image. 9, 10, 11 & 12 - Air BnB sucessfully launched a new travel magazine described by Brian Chesky Air BnB chief executive as a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; niche, bespoke magazineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.

Image. 13, 14 & 15 Bustle magazine - 11 unique visitors Refinery29

Final Major Project proposal

2.0 FMP proposal 1 My initial consideration for my final major project was to create a magazine in an area of growth, developing a niche or contract magazine. After working on Spoiled Nation and last year on existing title Women’s Health, I believe my strength lies in print production, this is something I want to utilise going forward. While working on Spoiled Nation, I particularly enjoyed working from a brief and creating content more in-depth articles . I have a passion for health and fitness, and as magazines like Women’s Health are experiencing growth within a declining magazine market. I want to take this oppurtunity to combine the two aspects. I have carefully considered my options and proposed two similar yet different magazine ideas; New title Contract magazine for David Llyold My first proposal is to create a bi-annual contract magazine for a UK based Health and Fitness club. Contract magazines are a growing segment of the magazine market, the future of magazines is moving in this direction therefore this is an area i would like to develop understanding on. I looked to consider some of the UK’s leading fitness clubs Anytime Fitness, David Lloyld Lesuire, Pure Gym and Virgin Active (Walker, 2018). David Llyold leisure club appeared to be the best fit, as the club puts a great emphasis on the lifestyle aspect of their brand, this would make more applicable to a magazine. Currently, the brand does not have a contract magazine. Therefore I will be looking to take inspiration for the house style of the magazine from their blog and current website branding. Content within the magazine will orientate around the brand’s core values; ‘Gym, Nutrition and Family’ (David Llyold, 2018). Content within the magazine would include information on aspects such as new additional facilities at the clubs, influential people, healthy cooking recipes, eating smart, fashion and makeup and general informative content. The magazine would be the first of its kind available therefore I will be looking to take inspiration from popular contract magazines such as ASOS and John Lewis and taking content inspiration from magazines such as Mens and Womens Health.

As a contract magazine, the magazine is purely business to customer, meaning it is not dependent on advertisers or sales. The success of the magazine will be measured on how well received it is by club members. At current David Llyold has 570,000 members based primarily in the UK. The cost of the membership at the club is considerably higher than other fitness clubs suggesting members have disposable income and are within the ABC1 income bracket, we would expect them to be professionals or part of a

family membership. This is a concept I would like to persue as I believe it will be viable favourable moving forward, when considering my options after graduation.

Image. 16 & 17 Davd Lloyd Leeds pool & David Llolyd blog covering everything food and health

Image. 18,19 & 20 Mens Health, ASOS & John Lewis

2.2 FMP proposal 2 Existing Title Womens Health Magzine For my fashion writing editorial module last year, I created content for the existing title ‘Women’s Health’ a monthly editorial. A project, I passionately enjoyed, the magazine combines creative design and commercially successful content. Women’s Health is a wellness magazine with mainstream appeal providing; “Expert advice on nutrition, beauty, athleisure, relationships and mental wellbeing (Hearst, 2018).” The success of the magazine had evolved, Claire Sanderson the magazine’s editor-in-chief explains how there has been a cultural shift, people are now more health and body conscious than ever before (Degun, 2018). I believe, with my increased skill level and knowledge I would be able to expand on my previous work to create a high-quality product. In addition, in last years project I combined my own images and stock images, As part of my FMP I would like to explore other elements such as still life and fashion photography. Inspired by the work of Nathalie Gimson the titles current Art Director, I would also like to diversify, bringing a new aspect to the magazine. Influenced by the editors and photographers such as Katie Grand LOVE magazines creative director and Lydia Garnett London based creative.

Women’s Health magazine has looked to take advantage of peoples growing interest in the wellness sector, providing readers with an authoritative voice in a crowded fitness market. Within this adapting to changing media consumption habits, the brand successfully utilises influencer marketing, encorperating pepole such as Alice Lieving previous cover star and columist within the magazine her 600k strong following helps enage new audiences. To ensure longevity, the brand has franchised developing events in their name and licensed products. Women’s Health appears to have almost monopolised the Women’s Fitness magazine market; rivals include Healthy, Slimming World and Running Magazine. The magazine has proven itself to be able to maintain success when sales are declining in the magazine market place, circulation figures increasing by 2.9% from 2016-2017 (Degun, 2018). I believe this would be a good option moving forward, providing me with the creative freedom to expand my current knowledge, whilst maintaining a focus.

Image. 21, 22, 23 & 24 Nathalie Gimson, Art Director at Womens Health

Image . 25 & 26 Kendal Jenner and Gigi Hadid for LOVE magazine by Katie Grand magazines Art Director. Image. 27 & 28 Lydia Garnett London based photographer and editor of accent magazine creative work for Soccer Bible (Avilable on Stack)

Image. 29,30 & 31 Katie Grand Editorial work for LOVE

Image. 32, 33, 34 & 35 Patrick Waughâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work I find hugely inspiring the way he utilizes collages to make simple images more interesting. I would love to create something inspired by his work in my FMP.

Image. 36, 37, 38 & 39 Some extracts of ELLE September 2018, Edited by Alby Bailey & Jo Bell.

2.3 Proposed timeline for FMP

January Define subject area, identify a gap in the market. Research to confirm the concept would be success within the magazine industry. Create a Mood-board which identifies house style.

March

Research into new concepts and potential article ideas.

Content development.

Plan content: Develop a flat plan for a magazine layout. Identify different themes and areas to explore.

Collage design - Patrick Waugh Influence

Begin to develop key contacts for articles etc.

February Begin developing content. Sub-edit raw copy Identify house style and style guide. Begin contacting people to participate in magazine.

April Feedback from the target audience on current content Continue content development Develop digital marketing concepts.

May Have finished product for the end of May.

26th May FInal hand-in Magazine to print

Allow time for several proof-readers Ensure all photography is industry standard. Consider contacting David Lloyd/ Womens Health - get exposure for magazine

3.0 References Audit Bureau of Circulation (2018) Product [Online]. London: ABC. Available from: Caroline Scott (2018) The key role slow journalism plays in the 24/7 digital news cycle [Online]. Available from:<https://www.journalism.co.uk/news/the-key-role-slow-journalism-plays-in-the-24-7-digital-news-cycle/s2/a719557/>[Accessed 13th January] Chantal Fernandez (2018) Finding a place for glamour magazine in 2018 [Online]. Business of Fashion. Available from:<https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/bof-exclusive/finding-a-place-for-glamourmagazine-in-2018> [Accessed 13th January] Conde Nast International (2019) LOVE media pack [Online]. London: Conde Nast. Available from: <https:// cnda.condenast.co.uk/static/mediapack/lo_media_pack_latest.pdf> [Accessed 13th January] Conde Nast International (2019) Vogue [Online]. London: Conde Nast. Available from:<https://www.condenastinternational.com/brands-and-footprint/vogue#UK> [Accessed 13th January] Content Marketing Association (2018) UK publishing [Online]. London. Available from: <http://the-cma. com/?s=Uk+publishing> [Accessed 6th December] Creative Industries (2018) Publishing facts and figures [Online]. London. Available from: <http://www. thecreativeindustries.co.uk/industries/publishing/publishing-facts-and-figures> [Accessed 7th December] Creative Industries (2018) Why the UK [Online]. London. Available from: <http://www.thecreativeindustries.co.uk/industries/publishing/publishing-why-the-uk.> [Accessed 6th December] Dave Pilcher (2017) Where are Magazines Going in 2018? [Online]. Available from: <https://www.linkedin. com/pulse/where-magazines-going-2018-dave-pilcher-> [Accessed 9thDecember] David Lloyd (2018) Blog [Online]. Available from: <https://blog.davidlloyd.co.uk/> [Accessed 10th December] Dominic Ponsford (2017) UK magazine ABCs: Winners and Losers and full breakdown as circulation declines average 6 per cent. [Online]. London: Press Gazette. Available from: < https://www.pressgazette.co.uk/ uk-magazine-abcs-winners-losers-and-full-breakdown-as-circulation-declines-average-6-per-cent/>[Accessed 7th December] Gawel, J. (1997) Herzberg’s theory of motivation and Maslows Hierarchy of needs. Research report. Gurjit Degun(2018) The challenges of making Women’s Health fit for the future [Online]. Campaign. Available from:<https://www.campaignlive.co.uk/article/challenges-making-womens-health-fit-future/1454430> [Accessed 13th January] Hearst (2017) Women’s Health media pack [Online]. London: Hearst UK. Available from: <file:///Users/oliviadexter/Downloads/wh-media-pack-feb17%20(1).pdf> [Accessed 13th January] History (2018) History [Online]. London : Hearst. Available from: <http://www.hearst.co.uk/history> IBIS world (2018) Magazine Publishers – UK Market Research Report [Online]. Available from: <https:// www.ibisworld.co.uk/industry-trends/market-research-reports/information-communication/publishing-activities/magazine-publishers.html> [Accessed 9thDecember] 18

Jennifer A Moon. (2004) A handbook of reflective and experiential learning: Theory and practice. 1st ed. London: Routledge Falmer. NI Business Info (2018) Overview of UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s publishing sector [Online]. London. Available from:< https:// www.nibusinessinfo.co.uk/content/overview-uks-publishing-sector> [Accessed 7thDecember] Philip Soundy Unwin, George Unwin, David H. Tucker (2018) History of publishing [Online]. London: Encyclopaedia Britannica. Available from: <https://www.britannica.com/topic/publishing> [Accessed 10th December] Profestional Publishers Association (2018) PPA Marketing [Online]. London. Available from: < http://www. ppa.co.uk/?item=%2fppa marketing&user=extranet%5cAnonymous&site=website >[Accessed 7th December] Sarah Penny (2017) Fashion Mointor [Online]. London. Available from: https://www.fashionmonitor.com/ resources [Accessed 7th December] SimilarWeb (2018) Dailymail.co.uk [Online]. Available from: <https://www.similarweb.com/website/dailymail.co.uk>[Accessed 10th December] Stephen Armstrong (1997) The continuing rise of contract publishing [Online]. Available from: <https:// www.campaignlive.co.uk/article/publishing-agencies-continuing-rise-contract-publishing-industry-contract-publishing-evolved-during-80s-encouraged-successes-m-s-magazine-growing/20027> [Accessed 10th December] Steve Watson (2014) Intern issue 2 [Online]. London: Stack Magazine. Available from: stackmagazines.com/magazine/intern-magazine/> [Accessed 9thDecember]

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Steven McIntosh (2017) Magazines: How print is surviving the digital age [Online]. London: BBC. Available from: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-40897967 [Accessed 7th December] Vanessa Thorpe (2018) Smart, coolâ&#x20AC;Ś and in print: how indy mags became all the rage [Online]. The guardian. Available from: <https://www.theguardian.com/media/2018/jul/22/independent-magazines-buck-trend-for-print-decine> [Accessed 13th January] Vice (2014) Accent Magazine, captures lives outside the ordinary [Online]. Available from: <https://www. vice.com/en_uk/article/jmb3w4/accent-magazine> [Accessed 13th January]