spoiled nation 2018 2019
SPOILED NATION
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Spoiled Nation OLIVIA DEXTER Editor-in-Chief
HEIDI BEASLEY Creative Director
KATIE FOX
BETH RYDER
JESS LEADBITTER
SOPHIE HALES
Chief Photography Director LBU Fashion Marketing
Chief Beauty Director, LBU Fashion Marketing
FAYE WARDELL
Fashion and Market Director
Exective Editorial Director, LBU Fashion Marketing
KAT ATKINSON
Deputy Editor LBU Fashion Marketing
LOIS WANDLESS Accessories Director
JAMES RENDELL
Fashion Features Director
Entertaiment Director
Features Director
Exective Managing Editor
EMILY HAMILTON
OLIVIA WATSON
MELLISSA SANTOS
MARIE CLAIRE MILLS
Design Director
Exective editor
HEIDI BEASLEY
Deputy Managing Editor
FASHION
Senior Accessories Editor JAMES RENDELL Senior Market Editor KATIE FOX Credits Editor MARIE CLAIRE MILLS Assistant Editor MARIE CLAIRE MILLS Assitants SOPHIE HALES, JESS LEADBITTER
FEATURES
Fashion Features Editor EMILY HAMILTON Strategic Projects and Techology Editor KAT ATKINSON Staff Writer FAYE WARDELL Associate Editor LOIS WANDLESS
ART DIRECTOR
Deputy Art Director MELLISSA SANTOS Associate Art Director OLIVIA WATSON Design Assistant BETH RYDER
PHOTOGRAPHY
Deputy Photo Director JESS LEADBITTER Photo Editor MARIE CLAIRE MILLS
FOLLOW THE TEAM ON INSTAGRAM
@KATYSPOILEDNATION @HARRYSPOILEDNATION @KYLIESPOILEDNATION Beauty editor Katy is not shy Our on-hand fashion co- Freelance designer Kylie has an eye about trying new things. Find ordinator Harry is in the know for all things cool. out how she got on recently... about all things LFW. Fashion essential?
Coffee! I start my day with coffee, the moment I take my first sip I’m ready!
Fashion essential? Leopard, Leopard, Leopard. In a recent trip to Ibiza, I was covered head to toe.
WITH THANKS TO Co-conspirators: SARAH COOPER
CREDITS: INSTAGRAM
Fashion essential?
Vans and a simple top, I live in my Vans they are the perfect casual equilibrium of casual and cool.
Editors Letter
BELOW FROM LEFT: MY HIGHLIGHT OF 2018 THE ROYAL WEDDING AND ONE OF MY FAVOURITE IMAGES FROM THE MAGAZINE.
To new chapters in 2019...
A
s my first year being Editor-In-Chief of this awesome magazine and brand comes to a close. I want to reflect on all the fantastic things we’ve achieved during 2018! With the help of Spoiled Nations devoted and wonderful readers and our excellent team, Together we’ve set the agenda for all things creative, pushing the boundaries of innovative capabilities. I know from the messages I receive that we’ve helped to inspire many of you. At Spoiled Nation we celebrate your creativity, encouraging readers to be the best version of themselves. I couldn’t be prouder of the work my team is doing to lead the conversation on topics such as mental health. I truly believe the work Spoiled Nation is doing is helping to make things happen. People regularly tell me that reading personal accounts of mental illness on these pages is helping them to open up, allowing them to realise they are not alone. As 2018 draws to a close, I hope 2019 is your best year yet. Hope you enjoy the issue and let us know what you think tweet me at @oliviaspoilednation!
Olivia Dexter Editor-In- Chief Follow me on Instagram @spoilednation
This year,
My news years resultion
LESS MORE
TALKING PLANNING VODKA JUNK FOOD COMPLAINING WORRYING LAZING AROUND FROWNING INSECURITY WEAKNESS IGNORANCE HATE
LISTENING DOING TEA SALADS HOPING ENCOURAGING BELIEVING WORKING OUT SMILING TRUST LOVE UNDERSTANDING
2018/2019 edition
Contents
FEATURE
Page 35
FASHION 6 10 12 22
Trend head start 5 trends of the S/S 19’ catwalk. Is the underwear as outerwear trend killing the seductive ability of lingerie Info ASOS collustion Info Fashion in Leeds Whatever your style is Leeds have it
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26 27
Why your fake Gucci might be funding terrorism Info
online dating 28 Are apps runing
MIND
30 The cost of fashion:
Fast Fashion, Social media and a planet struggling to surive. Info Is social media making it hard for us to relax Info
romance ?
Undressing fashion’s mental health
did cosmetic 35 When surgery become
standard procedure Info SPOILED NATION
Page 10
Page 44
MOOD 38
YAYOI KUSAMA Info
44
LIFE OUR WAY AROUND Info
50
NO ONE DOES WHAT WINGS DOES Info
54
MUSIC IN FASHION Info
CAREER 57
How to get your drea m job Info
TRAVEL 61
Manchester with Eve Shaw Info about article
Page 22 Page 22
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Fashion
FASHION
BY HEIDI BEASLEY
TREND HEADSTART
SS19
Although the weather may still seem so cold, next season is around the corner and we’re here to prepare you. We’ve taken five trends that were popular on the SS19 catwalks and found our best high street dupes to give you a head start.
ASOS.com
Can we ever remeber a time lace hasn’t been on trend? For SS19 we are seeing brands rework lace fabric into masculine styles – adding a feminine element. Elie Saab and Off-White are contrasting brands who have both used lace within their collections. We’ve complied our favourite lace re-worked dresses currently on the high street.
Off-White
Elie Saab
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LACE
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FASHION
There were major 70s vibes all around fashion week. Tie dye is back along with paisley print and crochet. While Calvin Klein and Prada were amongst those showcasing tie dye, Etro used bright paisley print and crochet which was a hit with both Chloe and Mcqueen.
Etro
50 SHADES OF BEIGE Beige was a common colour on the catwalk this season. Brands such as Burberry, Max Mara and Balmain showcased all things beige. Burberry introduced their iconic trench coat in 50 different shades of beige (who knew you could get 50 shades of beige?) Mixing and matching different shades will add texture and dimension to an overall look.
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Mango
Max Mara
Burberry
ZARA
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Urban Outfitters
Calvin Klein
Topshop
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SUMMER OF ‘69
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FRILLS ATTACHED
TUTTI FRUTTI SUITING Fashion week showed us that many brands have taken their colour palette inspo from their fruit bowl. Escada, Boss and Balenciaga all put their twist on the women’s suit, creating bright three pieces – perfect for a spring wedding guest.
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Topshop
Boss
Escada
ASOS.com
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Golda
Marc Jacobs
Topshop
Celine
There is nothing subtle about next seasons party wear. With tassels, feathers and sparkles being paraded across many shows, in particular Marc Jacobs, Celine and Chanel. Sparkles are always appropiate for any party so if you want to get ahead of the trends we have found our favourtie stand out party outfits.
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FASHION
Is the ‘underwear as outerwear’ trend killing the seductive ability of lingerie? Should we even care if it is? BY KATIE FOX
In recent years wearing underwear as outerwear has become a large trend. Garments which were once designed for the eyes of you and few special others are now being worn all day and night as outerwear. This isn’t only the classic bra and knickers being on show but, lace bodysuits, teddies, slip dresses as well as thongs with sheer, mesh and fishnet style skirts and trousers are now being paraded all over social media from the most recent holiday and festival season. Harriet Williamson wrote earlier this year for the Metro newspaper: ‘If you’ve spent your hard-earned cash on a gorgeous piece of lingerie, you might as well flaunt it.’ But is displaying your intimate pieces and more flesh ruining the sensuality of erotic and stimulation of underwear? Should we as women care if it is? A prime example of a celebrity who is enabling this trend is Kim Kardashian West, who is very familiar with believing less is more. With 118 million Instagram followers and each post getting millions of likes, Kim is a massive public figure who posts nearly every single day with the majority of her pictures being revealing. In 2016, Kim shocked everyone again with what she wore in Miami for a date night with husband Kanye West; a black lace body suit with a sheer black skirt which had splits up the side and barely-there heels. This outfit was very figure hugging, showing off all her curves, leaving nothing to the imagination. Is this degrading to Kim and does her it bother her husband? Does this disturb their sex life? We believe the reason the trend has become so popular is due to how it empowers
‘If you’ve spent your hard-earned cash on a gorgeous piece of lingerie, you might as well flaunt it.’ 10
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‘Lingerie should be a fashion icon that symbolises women empowerment; that signifies femininity, sexiness, and to inspire women all over the globe.’
Underwear as outerwear
women; making them feel sexy. Not for a man, but to make women feel good, even more confident, and we believe this feeling shouldn’t be just kept inside of the bedroom. “Lingerie should be a fashion icon that symbolises women empowerment; that signifies femininity, sexiness, and to inspire women all over the globe” wrote online writer Veronica Granja-Sierra in Thought Catalog. The trend does come with showing more skin and leaving less for the imagination of others, especially when it comes to what is under a woman’s clothing, the mystery and excitement has left. Consequently we think it is killing the seduction ability of lingerie since it is now more widely worn and seen more often, is it no longer exclusive or secretive like it used to be? The way it makes some women feel, empowering females whilst they are out for drinks, at a party, at work or seeing their friends instead of just at home in the bedroom then it’s worth reducing the seduction ability for men. As girls turn into women and as time goes on lingerie will no longer be designed for the purpose of impressing a man but for women; to make them feel amazing in their own skin.
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X ASOS announces ‘Collusion’ – a new fashion brand that aims to give
a voice to today’s youth. BY SOPHIE HALES
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CREDITS:
In October 2018, global fashion brand ASOS and Uncommon Creative Studio co-created the clothing brand, ‘Collusion’, targeted for a new generation of fashion conscious youths with the purpose of bringing more inclusivity to the fashion market. Collusion aims to cut through mainstream fashion brands like Pretty Little Thing, who design garments for at a ‘certain type’ of consumer-young, thin and female and instead offer something real- size inclusive, gender-fluid clothing that is ethically sourced and animal-free at an affordable price.
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FEATURE
Caption goes here, the caption goes here the caption SPOILED NATION
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FEATURE
“The collaboration is for ‘the coming of age, shaped by, and for, an audience who demand something different from the fashion industry” Collusion was founded by a line-up of young creatives – students, stylists, activists, image-makers and authors who have all shaped the brands identity with their own concepts on how fashion should evolve with today’s generation. One of the sixth creatives was conceptual artist and activist, Rene Matić from Peterborough. The 21 year old’s work frequently highlights and questions structures of power within society and specifically the art and fashion world, often drawing up experiences of her life as a queer, femme of colour.
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CREDITS:
The work produced by Rene for Collusion led to a limited edition collection comprising of 10 clothing pieces, entitled ‘Baby, Look After Yourself Please’. Matić’s artwork embody themes of diaspora, belonging and solidarity which appear through the graphic prints on pieces which include; co-ords, sweatshirts, dungarees and parkas. A humble, yet hardworking Rene describes her work as; “A fucking hot mess, but a determined one.”
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FASHION With representation essential to the brand’s ethos, the colourful and ‘90s-inspired collection has inclusive sizing across the range-going up to a size 6X. From everyday wears like unisex striped tees to the most head-turning statement pieces, there’s something for everyone. ASOS CEO Nick Beighton said the success came from a simple, yet often undervalued retail adage - what does the consumer want? “We look through the eyes of customers,” he stated, speaking on behalf of those who “choose to be free to select their fashion the way they want”.
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CREDITS:
“We look through the eyes of customers”
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FEATURE
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CREDITS:
FEATURE
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FASHION The national campaign for Collusion captured 100 young people living in Britain, featuring array of cultures, races, religions, and socioeconomic backgrounds. The diverse group includes Fred Alexander, a skateboarder from London who hates lad culture; Lydia Wasley, who battled cancer at age 14, resulting in a leg amputation; and Glasgow’s Shay Thomas, who was abandoned as a baby in Thailand and identifies as “they” or “them”. One element of the campaign involves a a six-minute film directed by filmmaker Dan Emmerson. The campaign video represents the lives of the 100 young people who have turned, or will turn, eighteen this year and asks the simple question “What do you wish for in the year you come of age?” The short film paints a unique portrait of British youth today. During the campaign and on the ASOS website many of the same garments are worn by both female and male models to show gender fluidity. Business of Fashion reported that in its first week of sales in October, Collusion was the number four brand out of 850 ASOS labels. Just a few years ago, when genderless apparel first entered the fashion market, critics questioned whether or not it would be profitable, or just a niche category. Today, the demand for gender fluidity clothing has grown rapidly, with some brands like John Lewis even creating non-gendered lines for infants. For brands like ASOS, the demand for unisex clothing has been quickly proven as Gen-Z are no longer concerned with wearing gender specific clothing but instead want inclusivity.
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CREDITS:
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photos 14-16 Credit: Collusion WEBPAGE
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BY EMILY HAMILTON
FASHION IN LEEDS. LEEDS. Secreted streetwear stores, distinctive vintage corners, high-street necessities, top-end designer wear. What more could you want? Leeds exposes retail therapy at its finest. Packed with independent stores, the urban city boasts a considerable variety of retail. Amble through the Victoria Quarter to visit Louis Vuitton, Vivienne Westwood and Harvey Nics, or head into Trinity centre for the high-street experience. Further still, the renowned architectural building The Corn Exchange offers unique and vintage fashion, whether it be boots and coats or shirts and jumpers. Whatever your style is, Leeds have it. In particularly, the streetwear culture in Leeds is at its utmost, with oodles of students rocking the latest 97s and nuptise North Face jackets. What do the students wear? We noticed Carharrt, The North Face, Champion and MKI are a few of the favourites. Leeds’s urban street style is echoed in the city’s attire; residents wear the wackiest of outfits without feeling apprehensive. Bright orange trainers, matching velour tracksuits, you name it, Leeds wear it. Leeds is renowned for its independent stores, from Leeds-born MKI Miyuki Zoku and All Blues Co. in the Corn Exchange, to Welcome in the bustling Thornton’s arcade, to The Hip Store on Vicar Lane, these shops make the local economy boom. So when you’re sprucing up your winter wardrobe, make a visit to these independent stores. Clothing in All Blues Co. is dedicated to today’s menswear trends, featuring an array of labels such as; Outstanding and Co, boots from America’s Red Wing and coats from France’s Le Laboureur. The Hip Store has been one of the best clothing stores in Leeds for over 30 years. They stock brands at the forefront of fashion today such as; Patagonia, Ralph Lauren, Patta and Norse Projects. The Hip Store nurtures rich fashion heritage. MKI is a Leeds original, one of my favourites. The innovative store has a modern, unique ambiance stocking the now world-wide MKI lines.
“Whatever your style is, Leeds have it”
NUPTISE JACKET
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CREDITS:
PHOTOGRAPY BY LEAH PILLING, THE NORTH FACE
FASHION
BY BETHANIE RYDER
WHY YOUR FAKE GUCCI MIGHT BE FUNDING TERRORISM The reality behind our counterfeit goods
O
n the surface, the buying and selling of fake luxury goods seems like a harmless, petty crime to many. But what happens when the truth behind these counterfeit organisations is far more sinister than we originally anticipated? In 2016, the International Trademark Association estimated that $460 billion worth of counterfeit goods were bought and sold, with the industry set to eventually become a $2.3 trillion underground company. With hardly any risks of penalties compared to other criminal offences, the buying and selling of fake products is a steadfast method to making a huge profit, with little consequences.
“They’re BUSINESS PROFESSIONALS tricking legitimate businesses with CONVINCING PAPERWORK.”
Despite this, in November 2017, Tommy Hilfiger’s Brand Protection Manager and Counterfeit Crime Fighter Alastair Gray conducted a TED Talk explaining the link between the purchasing of fake goods and terrorist organisations. As he discussed within the presentation – “Terrorists are selling fakes to fund attacks, attacks in our cities that try to make victims of us all. Would you still buy a fake handbag if you knew the profits would enable someone to buy bullets that would kill you and other innocent people six months later?” With many of us unaware of this alarming relationship, it’s unlikely that we are conscious of the previous terror attacks that were funded through this process. In June 2014, the French Security Services discontinued the monitoring of brothers Said and Cherif Kouachi after three years of being on the terror watch list. The reason behind the discontinuation was due to Cherif ’s behaviour of only buying fake trainers from China, showing no signs or links to any form of extremism. Seven months later, the two brothers walked into the offices of Charlie Hebdo magazine and opened fire, killing 12 people with guns bought from the proceeds of the counterfeit goods. This problem doesn’t just apply to the selling of fake designer goods
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either; the bombing of a commuter train in Madrid in which 191 people lost their lives is said to have been partly funded by the sales of pirated music CD’s in the USA. All counterfeit products ranging from fake car parts, pirate copies and replica of popular cosmetics are key supplies in funding the larger organisations that profit from these fabricated companies. For most of us, its highly likely that we ourselves have purchased a counterfeit product, or at least know someone who has. It’s difficult to have visited a country abroad and not witnessed the buying and selling of fake fragrances, cosmetics or fake designer merchandises on market stalls and other public areas - “What the tourist on holiday doesn’t see about those handbags is they may well have been stitched together by a child who was trafficked away from her family.” However, this process of selling counterfeit products isn’t just exclusive to foreign countries. In 2016, the town of Cheetham Hill, situated in Greater Manchester, claimed its title as the ‘Counterfeit Capital’ of the UK, with its forged companies regularly raking in over £3 million in profit. Whilst police organisations attempt to tackle the problem through the procedures of raids and undercover investigations, the public’s demand for these cheaper alternatives continues to expand and continues to fund these counterfeit businesses. Is our growing demand for these fake goods stemming from pure ignorance, or simply a lack of awareness around the problem? If we continue to invest our money into these forged establishments, we have to consider the extent of the damage that can be done with their vast profits – the funding of trips to training camps, the purchasing of weapons and elements of explosives and the ability to professionally advertise their companies as legitimate to a vast audience. When it comes to terror-related attacks, many of us feel helpless and unable to aid in preventing the events. However, by cutting the demand
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FASHION
PHOTO CREDIT: https://theamericangenius.com/ business-news/ebay-fighting-counterfeit-products/
“They’re business professionals tricking legitimate businesses with convincing paperwork.” James*, 24, is an avid buyer of counterfeit products. Based in Manchester as a student, he has a market packed with low-priced, fake produce right on his doorstep.
“I usually buy fake stuff because there’s no way I could ever afford the real thing. Some of my friends are able to buy themselves the proper branded items like Gucci trainers but I just can’t justify spending that amount of money on them, but I like them, so I get the cheaper versions. Nowadays you can hardly tell the real thing from the fake ones anyway so it’s not that big of a deal, I have a Louis Vuitton belt with the ‘LV’ branded on the front and only if you do your research would you be able to tell it’s not legit.” Would you continue to buy these counterfeit products if you knew they were funding organisations that have been linked to terror attacks and trafficking?
“Not a chance, I wouldn’t have ever thought twice about them two things being linked. It just seems like they’re on a complete different
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scale and would have nothing to do with each other. It’s not something I’ve ever been aware of to be honest. I don’t think I’d buy from these places ever again if that’s what they were doing with the profits. I actually can’t believe that.” When it comes to terror-related attacks, the uncertainty regarding another incident leaves many of us feeling helpless and unable to aid in preventing the events. However, by cutting the demand for these counterfeit products we can cut the funding towards vital segments of terrorist strategies and schemes. Similar alternatives to designer goods can be found on the high-street for a fraction of the price, whilst legitimate online sites such as Ebay and Depop offer consumers the opportunity to buy these branded items second-hand for a notably lower cost. The motivations behind these counterfeit businesses are unjustifiable and dangerous. If more information surrounding the reality behind these goods was available to the public, we could stand a better chance of stopping these organisations from causing further damage. By being more mindful with our choices and where the profits from our sales are being invested, we can begin to tackle the wider problem and hopefully, in return, abolish these radicalised underground systems for good. Alastair Gray’s TED Talk is available to watch online via the TED.com official website - “How Fake Handbags Fund Terrorism and Organised Crime.” CREDITS:
for these counterfeit products we can cut the funding towards vital segments of terrorist strategies and schemes. Similar alternatives to designer goods can be found on the high-street for a fraction of the price, whilst legitimate online sites such as Ebay and Depop offer consumers the opportunity to buy these branded items second-hand.
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Mind SPOILED NATION 2018/2019
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BY BETHANIE RYDER
MIND
Fast-Fashion, Social Media and a planet Struggling to survive. WITH SUSTAINABLE HABITS SUCH AS VEGANISM AND PLASTIC REDUCTION GAINING POPULARITY VIA SOCIAL MEDIA SITES, WHY IS FAST-FASHION CONSUMPTION STILL SHOWING NO SIGNS OF STOPPING?
With social influencers choosing to upload their work onto multichannel platforms, it’s hard not to be exposed to a “haul” style video or post on a daily basis. As social media continues to progress and reaches new technological advances, shopping has become an impulsive everyday routine for many. The introduction of Instagram’s Shopping Tag has added a new level of simplicity to online shopping; one-click and we as consumers are presented with a ready-to-buy product, (minus the filtering and scrolling that previously came with e-commerce consumerism), whilst social-commerce apps such as 21 buttons pride themselves on their innovative approach to pinpointing the current seasons ‘Must Haves’ to its customers. A common way in which these social influencers are choosing to advertise sponsorships with the fast-fashion brands is through the process of affiliate links. With mass amounts of followers on social media platforms, the method of using a ‘swipe up to shop’ approach can lead to huge amounts of purchases being made on a particular item, whilst the person behind the screen receives a percentage of income in return. This week, fitness and lifestyle blogger Grace Beverly (@gracefituk) used her self-built platform on Instagram to highlight her opinions on the issue. Well-known for her strong beliefs on plant-based diets and the conservation of the environment, she stated on her Instagram, “people are happy to criticise influencers for showing their outfits or doing hauls, but then go off to work at their big corporation jobs who likely have a lot more of a way to go in terms of sustainability… I have definitely cut down my consumption of fast fashion whether visible or not. (I refuse to constantly prove myself and then get comments asking why I’m showing off what ‘good things’ I’m doing).” But one scroll through Grace’s multi- platform profiles and it becomes clear that a relationship with the major fast-fashion companies is evident. For some influencers, however, this affiliation with the brands is their only source of solid income. Social influencers rely on receiving a wage through their profiles, just as many of us do within our everyday jobs, so is it fair for us to critique their intentions of just striving to make a living for themselves? Or do these ambassadors have an obligation to the rest of us to promote ethical values, and take on the ‘role model’ persona?
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It was inevitable that many of us would be left feeling responsible and to blame for the harrowing effects fast-fashion had caused worldwide after the recent warnings. Despite this, although there is still massive progression to be made, there are ways in which we can all individually improve on our clothing consumption. Buying second hand is one, whilst investing in ethically sourced and fair-trade items is another. But are we receiving enough support from the larger industries when it comes to being sustainable? Fashion House Hennes & Mauritz have recently introduced garment-collecting programmes into all of their brands, where anyone can take in any unwanted fabric into stores and receive a gratuity voucher to spend in return. Still, it’s unclear to distinguish whether these methods of reducing landfills and protecting our planet are genuine, or just a ‘box-ticking’ exercise. After all, these companies are relying on our consumption in order to survive amongst an already hindering industry. It’s a clear notion that many of us are beginning to change our lifestyle choices in hopes of conserving the environment (it’s almost every week that London sees the opening of a new Vegan café) so why does Pretty Little Thing continue to be named the fastest growing brand on the internet, with a 228% rise in sales just this year? Are we a nation of hypocrites who choose to buy into a sustainability ‘trend’ when it suits us, or are we unfortunately trapped in a system of capitalism that has left us with a constant insatiable appetite for more?
CREDITS:
Earlier this month our headlines were teeming with the news that the population had only 12 years to limit what could be a climate change catastrophe. With fast fashion standing as one of the top 5 industries responsible for global pollution, our consumption habits and how often we are investing into the major fast fashion companies needs to be reconsidered. But what happens when the internet’s top influencers are incessantly inundating our screens with paid advertisements and affiliate sponsorships for these retail conglomerates?
BY HEIDI BEASLEY
IS SOCIAL MEDIA MAKING IT HARD FOR US TO RELAX?
S
ocial media is changing the way that we interact and view society, our friends and even ourselves. If we’re all being honest most of us check our social media accounts daily, from the moment we wake up to the moment we sleep – but what are the consequences of that? Social media is being linked to anxiety, depression and stress. Many of us are left feeling like we are missing out when we look on social media, whether that’s missing out on a party or a certain lifestyle. We’ve all been there when we couldn’t make it to an event, whether it’s a party or just drinks after work – you open up Instagram and can’t help but feel like you’re missing out on something great when you see everybody ‘cheersing’ on their story. The fear of missing out can lead on to anxiety, bringing stress along with it. If we needed a tool that would compare ourselves to others then Instagram would be perfect. Scrolling through can lead to us questioning what we are doing in life, often making us feel so behind. But the reality of what people post online is that the majority are only posting their best bits – understandably. It can sometimes feel like social media is pushing us to be perfect in everything we do – even the food choices we make. Nobody wants to see a picture of your beans on toast, they want to see a picture of your Acai bowl that takes 30 minutes to decorate with coconut flakes and flower petals. It’s no surprise that daily comparison kills our confidence and results in anxiety.
With all the negative side effects we really should ask is social media making it harder for us to relax?
Studies have also found that families who stay connected via Facebook, Twitter and Instagram are often left feeling more distant from each other – due to the selective information they post online that perceives them differently to their reallife persona. We all know how annoying it is when you’re out in a group of family or friends and you have those individuals who cannot get off their phone – this is another example of how social media is creating a barrier between real life interaction. Withdrawal from social media platforms is a real thing and it comes along with the addiction to refreshing your feed. Obsessing over social media can make relaxing ten times harder if you are in the habit of constantly updating or just checking on everyone else.
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MIND
BY KAT ATKINSON @wearsitatkat
Are online dating apps ruining romance? ...and why I’m coming off them
Girls, picture the scene: you’re glowing, you’ve never looked better. You rush into your local supermarket to grab some essentials after work and over the frozen peas you lock eyes with the man of your dreams. Tall, dark and handsome, you begin chatting, swap numbers and well, as they say, the rest is history. Sound cringingly cliché? Well, maybe that’s because it is. We are conditioned from little girls by the fairytales we are read at bedtime, waiting for our Prince Charming to come and rescue us from the mundanity of our everyday existence. But in today’s world, does Prince Charming even exist? And even if he does, are we now too impatient to wait for him? Are we taking it upon ourselves to trawl through the offerings and settling? Or, is Mr Right too busy with his head in his phone (swiping right to every girl with brown hair in a 35-mile radius) to even notice you walking past him in the street? It’s a sobering thought that (according to EHarmony) over 50% of couples will meet online by 2031. Why is it that we are now relying on connecting with someone through a phone screen rather than face-to-face? When we shut our eyes, we can all visualise what our ‘dream man’ would look like: dashingly handsome? Around 6’2 with a slight stubble? But what if these physical requirements are actually acting as barriers when it comes to finding love? This is before we’ve even discussed the ever-growing list of other attributes a potential partner must have; good job, drives, owns a house? Apps like Tinder and Bumble rely on good-looking singletons to bolster their success rate, with their ‘matches’ purely dependent on appearance alone – after all, does anyone
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actually read the bio or care that you’ve backpacked round Thailand and petted a sedated tiger? Probably not. It’s easy to do, focus on the positives. His amazing smile, him holding a baby in his profile picture, (he’s obviously a family man, right?) a lengthy bio about how he’s a genuine, trust-worthy guy and looking for ‘the one’ (he must be telling the truth... surely?). You’ve convinced yourself he’s almost definitely your soulmate without even seeing him in person. What we seem to forget is that anything can be written in a bio. He could be a serial bigamist with 13 children, his photos could be edited to within an inch of his life, and that baby? Well, he could be hedging his bets in hopes that this is something you find attractive. The reality is this: we’re becoming a society that is so focused on looks that we are missing the whole point of human connection – personality. Just because you’ve convinced yourself your dream man is a 6’2 brunette, you’re rejecting so many other possible variations from the get-go, possibly dismissing the illusive ‘one’ without even realising. The fact is, when we begin talking to someone online we imagine the bits we don’t know to fill in the gaps, it’s impossible not to do. We’re putting potential partners on this perfect pedestal before we’ve even met them; an ideal that’s impossible for them to live up to. These individuals that we’ve created are imaginary from the very beginning and existed only in our heads. So, this is why I’ve vowed to come off dating apps. I yearn for the instant physical and mental connection with someone you’ve just met in person – that ‘spark’. In this age of almost obsessively controlling everything through our phones, maybe our love lives are the one thing that we should leave up to fate.
“In today’s world, does Prince Charming even exist?”
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BY LOIS WANDLESS
MIND
The Cost of Fashion: Undressing Fashion’s Mental Health
In a romanticised industry there is a long existence of debate proposing a correlation between the pressures of fashion on the employees and creatives and the impact this has on their mental health. Creatives Earlier this year another creative was sadly taken to suicide, Kate Spade was only 55 when she committed suicide and had a $2.4 billion brand under her belt. She is tragically the third designer to die due to suicide since 2010, along with Alexander McQueen and L’Wren Scott. It is no surprise that creatives in this industry are under constant pressure throughout their career in such a fastpaced industry. DeCode, a genetics company based in Reykjavik, have supplied information that people working in creative industries are 25% more likely to suffer with mental illness than those working in less creative industries such as manual labourers. Many designers through history have been known to turn to drugs and alcohol, like Yves Saint Laurent who would get so intoxicated he couldn’t maintain posture at his own runways. The cycle which seasons within the industry runs at a high-paced frequency with most designers likely designing a full collection within three weeks, along with the diffusion lines of the brand such as cosmetics. As a fashion creative your career becomes your life with constant events and networking with other individuals within the industry to promote the brand. Is there not enough support for creatives within the industry? Living in an age where everything is so high-paced, with technology offering fashion in an instant, trends and styles become older faster and it’s the creatives behind brands who are suffering under the pressure. The strain on creatives is dismissed by many and is leaving the industry to be a daunting place. 30
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Models and Consumers
It is not only the creatives and powerhouses behind the labels who are suffering, the fashion industry is also impacting body positivity among not only models but consumers. Many renowned models have spoken up on the topic of mental health and the fashion industry and explained their personal experiences. This is not a recent topic for models, at a “mental health issues in creative industries” conference in 2016 British model and activist for mental health care in the modelling industry, Rosie Nelson, discussed her experiences. Nelson explained how her self-esteem has been “stripped” while working in the modelling industry and how she was shamed when casting directors told her to lose weight “down to the bone”. Another model who expresses her troubles with mental health is Adwoa Abodah, who has modelled for brands such as Fendi, DKNY to even H&M. Adwoa explains that she feels that she was “born sad” and has struggled with drug abuse and even attempted suicide after she received harsh criticisms. These models are not alone with a huge 40% of models within the industry battling eating disorders and depression. The issue is becoming more recognized within the industry; professor of diversity in fashion, MBE Caryn Franklin explains “In the last 10 to 15 years the average size of models has increased from 5’9 to 5’11 with the same sample size, increasing the pressure to meet normalised ideals”. As the pressures on models are becoming recognised, LVMH and Kering luxury group follow a model charter. This protects the wellbeing of models, assuring that models under 16 aren’t hired and no smaller than a size 6. In addition to this the Models Health Pledge was created in London in 2016 to protect the health of models and raise awareness of mental health issues in modelling. Although measures are being put in place to protect the well fare of models the impact on consumers also needs to be assessed. With increasing pressure to fit social norms, is sizing and model selection impacting the mental health of us as consumers? Beat charity for eating disorders explained over 1.25 million people struggle with eating disorders within the UK alone and the majority of which being young people. The pressures of the fashion industry are not only impacting those working in it but also those consuming it.
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To find out more information on the topic of mental health I spoke to Matt Legg, who after struggling with mental health problems himself made the decision to help others and works for the charity CALM. How has your experience been with mental health and what have you done personally to help with mental health awareness? From the age of 16 I struggled with anxiety always in cycles, then throughout 2017 I had a depressive episode that spanned throughout the whole year and was debiliting and caused me to defer my studies at university. Durting this time I was suffering with low mood, but I was also unable to speak properly, everything felt like hard work even basic things like making the bed. I had no idea what was going on. By February 2018, I had recovered and since then have been working with CALM zone (Campaign Against Living Miserably). I also work for my own charity F.C Not Alone - in order to raise money for charities such as CALM and raise awareness about men’s mental health issues. My main achievement has been organising a World Cup tornament as Wembly with 240 players who all payed to enter as well as a corresponding justgiving page. All proceedings went to CALM totalling £8,000 and since then I have spoke to the likes of BBC and London North East Rail and worked with other mental health organisations to raise awareness.
What advice do you have for people who struggle with mental health problems and feel like they can’t reach out for help? People need to know they CAN reach out for help. There are organisations set up now to provide help and support for people in these situations. There is nothing weak about asking for help and the alternative is that you suffer alone without your loved ones and friends having any idea and this isn’t a good place to be. From experience myself I know that those close to you would far rather help you than let you suffer alone. People will listen to you and people care about you, however big or little the problem may be it is important to try and talk to someone. It is far more common than you think to be struggling with mental health problems of any kind.
What are the impacts on day to day life for people struggling with mental health problems?
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There is a whole range of different impacts on daily life for people depending on their specific mental health struggle. For me personally, when I have strugggled with depression and anxiety the impacts are all encompassing. My whole day from going to lectures, meeting with friends and even looking myself was a huge struggle. I feel unable to enjoy any aspect/ most aspects of my life and my ability to carry on normal life is affected, desire to undertake any task is affected as a result. Ultimately day to day life feels far more difficult in a period of depression or high anxiety.
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What advice can you give for people who find their career is making their mental health worse, or a suffering due to external pressures? I would say let somebody know your mental health is suffering either due to your career or external pressures, whether a family member, a support team within your workplace. Colleagues and or bosses may misinterpret your worsening mental health for lack of effort and poor performance. If you speak to somebody, portray your concerns and your mental health continues to worsen, change profession. No job is more important than your mental well-being. Similarly, relieve yourself of the external pressures that you believe to be causing a negative impact to your mental wellbeing.
Finally, do you think mental illness is portrayed accurately in the media? If I had been asked this question a year ago, I would say of course not, but there are strides in the right direction being seen in recent months. There is still a huge lack of educative material in newspapers and magazines. There are still occasions where there is a suicide and people fail to understand the connection between mental illness and suicide and wonder how somebody could do such a thing? Or how could that person be so depressed? Without understanding the nature of mental illness, that it can affect anyone. OCD is the clearest example of misinforming by the media. OCD is not when someone wants something to be clean. OCD is far more a case where if somebody doesn’t perform a task, or a repetition of tasks, they suffer an influx of intrusive thoughts, leading to anxiety which cannot be resolved until they undertake their task again. It can lead to hugely life limiting circumstances where people struggle to leave their house in the fear they cannot perform their rituals. Depression and suicide are still lacking representation on the television as they still seem to be a taboo subject, and will remain so until they become a part of daily communication, however uncomfortable it may be.
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CREDITS: MEGAN BARTON HANSON - NSTAGRAM CREDITS :
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MIND
BY OLIVIA DEXTER
WHEN DID COSMETIC SURGERY BECOME STANDARD PROCEDURE? The Love Island Effect
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n the UK the number of people undergoing traditional plastic surgery is going into decline, according to new figures the rise of fillers and other non-surgical procedures could be to blame. A procedure previously reserved for celebrities and reality stars has increasingly become part of mainstream culture.
plastic surgery adverts during the commercial breaks has come under considerable criticism. CEO of the NHS, Simon Stevens has said that adverts are “playing into set pressures around body image”. Following the three months that the adverts ran the advertising standards agency ruled them to be irresponsible and harmful. Implying a link between women’s enjoyment of lives and cosmetic surgery. The advertisement showed This summer saw the launch of hotly anticipated fourth series of Love women dancing and posing for photos, followed by a voice-over which Island, fueling a massive response on social media. Viewer obsession offered a free consultation to viewers. Trivialising the viewer’s decision to with ITV2’s ‘sexy singles’, whose faces appeared on three million of our undergo surgery, carrying the implication women could only be happy if screens perfectly plumped with Botox, cheek and lip filler. There has they had enhancements. Broadcasting these adverts in mainstream media been speculation surrounding almost all the women as to is arguably a psychological push targeting open-minded what they have undergone to achieve that chiselled look. young girls, encouraging them to into surgery they don’t “LIPS PLUMPED One stand-out star, however, was Megan Barton Hanson, a need for financial gain. For generation Z and Millennials, WITH FILLER and who have grown up seeing dermatologists, using skin glamour model from Essex. Lips plumped with filler and a a RHINOPLASTY rhinoplasty nose job perfect enough to make you question creams and spending considerable money on treatments the situation of your own nose. Megan’s face quickly became NOSE JOB GOOD such as eyelash extensions and laser treatments, fillers a hot topic on social media. Comparable to the Kylie Jenner enough TO MAKE and injectables are the next logical step. Similarly, too effect of 2017 when the reality star revealed her plumped expensive temporarily treatments like eyelash extensions YOU QUESTION pout to the world. According to the tabloids Love Islands and waxing cosmetic surgery is becoming everyday the SITUATION Megan has had £25,000 worth of plastic surgery. Since maintenance. OF YOUR OWN entering the villa pictures of Megan before and after having been circulating on social media “No, I’m being serious. I For this age group of millennials and baby boomers who NOSE.” need numbers of Megan’s surgeon or filler lady” tweeted one are more informed about non-surgical treatment and viewer of Megan’s dramatic surgical makeover. The obsession with what what can be achieved. Unlike in the 2000s when cosmetic treatment was the Love Island girls have had ‘done’ has inevitably lead to an increased kept hush, the effects are far subtler. Were previously treatments were interest in cosmetic surgery. Instagram has also been a primary facilitator admitting to your body’s failure today’s perceptions have changed as part in increasing peoples access to non-surgical cosmetic procedures. The app of a broader shift in cultural norms. Celebs such as Kim Kardashian openly allows you to explore different localised aesthetic practitioners through a share their routines as part of everyday beauty conversation, posting new homepage update. The ‘Love Island package’ of cheek and lip filer is images on Instagram and YouTube videos. The perception that women get offered by one of the UK’s most popular non-surgical cosmetic franchises cosmetic surgery because they have low self-esteem is questionable with ‘Kiss Aesthetics’. a lot of women preferring their appearance enhanced. Ultimately the rise of cosmetic surgery has come to be as people want to look and feel their However, the prevalence of cosmetic surgery on the show has not gone best using the tools modern technology has to offer. As long as people are unnoticed. Reprimanded for the potentially harmful implications on doing it for the right reason, everyone has the right to feel their best in body image, ITV2’s controversial choice to feature MYA cosmetic and their own bodies.
WHO’S HAD WHAT ‘DONE’ @MichKeegan British Actress famous for her naturally plumped pout
@KYlieJenner beauty mogul infamous for her plump pout
@bellahadid victoria secret model showcasing her rhinoplasty nose job and lip fillers.
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Inspiration SPOILED NATION 2018/2019
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FEATURE BY MELISSA SANTOS
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YAYOI KUSAMA
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March 22nd of 1929 Matsumoto City, Japan, 2018’s favourite artist was born. Yayoi Kusama made her name all over the globe with art that sends Instagram users into overdrive.
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Yayoi Kusama today is widely recognised for her euphoric exhibitions and installations, but the history behind the 89 year old artist is what makes her a pioneering artist. Instagram feeds will be flooded with lights, gigantic flowers and bronzed pumpkins as the artist takes over the Victoria Miro Gallery on Wharf Road for the twelfth time. ‘The Moving Moment When I Went To The Universe’ features new paintings and the iconic ‘My Eternal Soul’ series which encapsulate the themes and obsessions that have characterised Kusama’s art for decades. A sublime combination of surrealism, minimalism, pop-art, abstract and humour, Yayoi Kusama is the pioneer for turning trauma into art that sends the rest of the world as crazy as her. The artist’s life is a testament to both the power of art and human resilience. Kusama suffered from mental illnesses at an early age, which led to be the focal point of inspiration for her art today, alongside being abused by an apathetic mother. Being mentally ill meant young Kusama had personal obsessions and experienced vivid hallucinations. At this young age, Kusama would take her sketchbook to the seed-harvesting grounds her family owned, which would grow varieties of violets, peonies and zinnias, and sit amongst these flowers. She explained one day these same flowers began to crowd in on her, speaking to her; “I had thought that only humans could speak, so I was surprised the violets were using words. I was so terrified my legs began shaking.” This marked the beginning of her hallucinations that haunted her childhood but shaped her art. It was clear these episodes connected to the disorder of her home, with an adultering father and an unstable mother who sent Kusama to spy on him and his mistresses, only to have the rage taken out on her when she reported back. Being born into a traditional, maleorientated Japanese culture, it was difficult for Kusama to be creative when her mother would tear apart her canvases and ordered her to become more etiquette in hopes of finding a husband in an arranged marriage; the destiny for most Japanese women during this period. However, her commitment to creativity and art in order to make sense of her hallucinations persevered. Instances of the tablecloth flowers chasing her around her home and the blue sky having sporadic bursts of radiance became less fearful when Kusama could draw what she had seen into her sketchbooks, easing the shock. The trademarks of Kusama we know today were rooted in this very
“I had thought that only humans could speak, so I was surprised the violets were using words. I was so terrified my legs began shaking.”
practice. She experienced her first pumpkin with her grandfather at age 11, which whispered to her when she picked up. She went on to paint it for a competition where she won first place. 80 years on, Kusama’s silver pumpkin sculptures have been sold for $500,000. The traumas of her childhood became instrumental in her work not only because of her uncomfortable family life but also the society she was existing in. Women were destined to be wives and nothing more. In the 1950s, not giving up on her art, Kusama was studying painting in Kyoto, located in west-central Honshu in the picturesque valley of the Kamo River with surrounding mossy green mountains. Finally, she fled the nest of Japan and headed for the concrete jungle of New York in 1958. As a 27 year old woman straight into the city’s testosterone driven art scene. Kusama demonstrated her resilience again and became a vital part of the New York’s avant-garde scene with her provocative outlets and exhibitions up until the 1970s.
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Life in New York at the beginning proved difficult however, surviving
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Young Yayoi Kusama Flikr
off the few hundred dollars she arrived with, that were sewn into the linings of her dresses and was turning fish heads from the fishmonger’s bin into soups for dinner. Kusama was also facing rejection of her art for a while until her breakthrough work of Infinity Net paintings, which were adapted from the waves of the Tokyo’s sea when Kusama first flew there. The first of these paintings she sold were to fellow artists Frank Stella and Donald Judd in 1962 for only $75. She sold one of these canvases in 2014 for $7.1m. Kusama moved onto creating soft sculptures which included furniture with fungi-like patterns and phallic shapes, an example of Kusama confronting her personal phobias through her artwork like her fear of sex from witnessing her father’s affairs. Coming from such a traditional Japanese upbringing, she wrote “I was taught sex was dirty, shameful, something to be hidden.” It was apparent art became an essential survival mechanism for Kusama in order to make sense of her own reality. It allowed her to successfully integrate herself into normal society despite suffering from mental illnesses and trauma. She began to include other unorthodox elements such as electric lights and mirrors in her installations, personifying her artwork. For her Driving Image Show, she brought together different eras such as painting from Infinity Net, objects from her Accumulations series, most works from the Aggregation: One Thousand Boats Show, not forgetting a macaroniencrusted dresses with mannequins. Filling New York’s Castellane Gallery, Kusama was establishing herself as an outsider with force.
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FEATURE
Kusama submersed herself in other movements and subcultures such as hippie culture and second-wave feminism in the 60s. She painted naked party animals in her trademark polka dots through the streets of New York during the summer of love. It was clear Kusama was more than just a painter and sculptor, she was integrated in change and contributed towards shaping the future we now live in. On the other hand, she wanted to be recognised as an outsider and as a singular being. She projected this through a piece where she dressed in traditional Japanese attire of a geisha in a kimono, white painted face and flowers in her plaited hair. Despite the difficulties she experienced, being rejected from her home growing up, Kusama’s identity was still strongly connected to her heritage. In her romantic life, Kusama also had developed an intense admirer; Joseph Cornell. Cornell, in his 50s living with mother, sent poem after poem to Kusama. Cornell became her only known lover, as the pair found something within each other; “He didn’t like sex, and I didn’t like sex so we didn’t have sex.” However, the death of Joseph Cornell in 1972 brought her home to Japan, where her name has since became famous. She rented an apartment on the 10th floor of a tower block in Shinjuku ward of Tokyo, cocooning herself amongst Tokyo’s tallest buildings. Her apartment overlooked a large cemetery which merely reflected back her own grief and sadness. Despite working through her pain with surreal and unsettling collages of her late lover, it ultimately brought back the hallucinations of her adolescence with violent panic attacks which resulted in her being hospitalised on more than one occasion.
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March of 1977, Kusama took it upon herself to section herself to a psychiatric hospital. What set Kusama apart from other artists was this marked the beginning of her next chapter, not the end. Mirroring her childhood, Kusama was able to control her mania through her creativity again. Over 40 years later, Kusama sleeps in at the hospital seven nights a week and works in her studio, only over the road, six days a week. Despite the vast fortune and wealth Kusama has earned in her later life, she has no interest in it. She eats sushi, makes all of her own clothing and works with a close knit team in the studio. All Yayoi Kusama has wanted is the her name to be everywhere, her art to be seen and her legacy remembered. The internet has made that a reality for her, as she made her weird and wonderful world a reality for us. Kusama let the world understand her past in order to appreciate her present. So let her story inspire, culture and resonate.
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“He didn’t like sex, and I didn’t like sex so we didn’t have sex.”
Yayoi Kusama Flikr
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BY JESS LEADBITTER
INSPIRATION
LIFE AROUND OUR WAY Jessica Leadbitter refutes the common stereotypes of living in a ‘bad area’ and relives the positive memories of growing up on a council estate.
“We should never have to be apologetic of our heritage.” The words “council estate” may retain certain connotations and preconceptions. But although there may be negative newspaper articles and bad statistics online, there is a fighting spirit that sweeps through the concrete tower blocks and orange-brick estates. Its inhabitants have the power to overcome life’s adversities and financial hardships. Council estates have nurtured and raised many a star, from Elton John to Ozzy Osbourne, however the media likes to present the preconceived notion that council estates are bound by criminals and wrongdoers. There is good and bad in all areas. We may not all be Rock Stars but, in these communities, you will find some of the kindest, most compassionate and diligent people.
we encounter for the rest of our lives. We should be able to be proud of where we grew up and the people we are, rather than be criticised for it because, if anything, these families struggle more than most but teach their children important values that money can’t buy.
I, myself, have grown up on a council estate in Middlesbrough.; the industrial town which saw its production heavily decline in the 1970’s and 80’s. A report from Plan International UK recently stated that Middlesbrough was the worst place for females to grow up in the UK. Whilst the town is branded as the “worst place to live in Britain” and shrouded with statements such as “smog in access,” I can vouch that it isn’t the worst place to live, and there definitelt are not clouds of smog suffocating the streets - more like friendly faces and a positive sense of community. If you ever meet a “Smoggie,” what will strike you is the passion and pride that they have for their town, which is something everyone should cherish. We should all be proud of where our journey started.
As a child I had no concept of good areas and the bad. I loved the estate in which I grew up; living so close to the coast meant weekly trips to the seaside. Although we didn’t have much money whilst growing up, I undeniably had the richest childhood. My two best friends lived just over a bridge dividing the two estates meaning we shared everything. All the ups and downs of growing up, we lived it together. These life-experiences mould us into the people we are at present. We should never have to be apologetic of our heritage, so instead lets honour it. I still visit the North East frequently. No matter where I live, my home town will always be a significant part of my life and my history. There is no better feeling than being welcomed by my family or sleeping over in my childhood room, preserved exactly how it has always been. Growing up on a council estate has taught me compassion, kindness, work ethic, independence and to be grateful for every opportunity. I am proud to say that I now apply these morals to my everyday life - values I believe that I would never have learnt if I had of grown up somewhere different. Be proud of where you call home.
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@SHYHONIBALLART
CREDITS: Cheyenne Honiball
Having experienced moving to a new city, alongside being the first member of my family to go to university, the majority of people I have come across have been amazing and so welcoming. However, from time-to-time I am still met with a passing judgment because of where I was born and raised. Anyone who is from an area considered as ‘bad’ will most likely have experienced this, but the question is how do we shake these stereotypes? Unfortunately, it may be something
Growing up I have no memories of the smog but rather fond ones of me riding my bike down my estate and snowball fights with neighbouring kids - slogging away on the local paper round, playing football on the back field and getting drunk with friends. Memories like these we cherish, maybe more than others, as they now seem a like a lifetime away. They also remind us that there is no place like home.
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Life and Photography with: Cheyenne Honiball
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What is your fondest memory of growing up on a council estate?
My fondest memory would be my father working on the icecream vans. He would bring me and all my friends from my neighbourhood free ice creams. I also remember playing ‘Kirby’ most days. Growing up on a council estate can be hard, but due to most people having suffered, people unite in small ways that help you. Even if it’s a free Knicker-Bocker-Glory ice cream. What inspires your photography?
Social issues are my main focus; I find beauty in the struggle. Do you think where you grew up has had an impact on your photography?
Yes. I’ve lived in some of the roughest parts of Middlesbrough so naturally I absorb a lot of heartache and I saw others face similar issues to me my whole life, so I try to convey a oneness in my photography. Almost every person in my life and in Middlesbrough will resonate with the photos, hopefully. How would you best describe your photos?
I would best describe them as the gritty truths of poverty stricken people and places. Overall, just Social Issues. Where do you capture most of your images?
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Predominantly Middlesbrough or my local neighbourhoods. However, I venture to other places in the UK also.
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No One Does What Wings Does
INSPIRATION
BY MARIE-CLAIRE MILLS
Most 24 Year Olds are ‘finding themselves’ and deciding on their future career path, yet Jack McBride is able to have his hobby as his job.
‘Oh hell no!’ Jack says, as he sips from a glass of OJ. The short, but succinct, response suggests he had no idea that he’d be the founding-editor-in-chief of Wings Magazine, especially at the age of 24. His iPhone is resting on the table within close reach, in case an email comes through, patiently waiting for our interview to start. He jokes, ‘It’s hard running a magazine, I promise you. It’s quite cool though, if you went through the contacts list on my phone there’s enough fighter pilots there to make a small air force,’ Something he had only dreamed of as a young-boy. Jack grew-up in South Woodham Ferrers, a small commuter town in Essex, but always lusted for a city life. He moved out of his hometown to go to university in Norwich, city of arts, to study architecture after his dreams of becoming a fighter pilot were shattered because his eye sight was not strong enough. Everyone was surprised about his subject choice because of how he was set on studying a subject which would allow him entry into the RAF, after all that was his childhood dream. He applied for engineering, after his eyes had given him his first hurdle to jump to get his place in the RAF, with confidence he had the aptitude and passion to succeed with this subject. However, when applying for the RAF’s scholarship scheme another he had another knock due to budget cuts and this led him to re-evaluate his decisions. Growing up, Jack would sketch buildings and had a great interest in structures of buildings when he was researching engineering at school. He also had this creative flare he had never really done much with, this was an opportunity for him to turn over a new leaf and delve into something new. ‘It was a quick turnaround to want to go and do something creative, so I understand why people were taken by surprise.’ Did he surprise himself? ‘I think so,’ it was probably the best decision he could have made and if he hadn’t explored this option, he wouldn’t have been creative or had as much freedom to do his own thing and discover himself. The more I chatted with Jack the more I came to understand that Jack is putting his all into his project of Wings. Post university, Jack came back home to the realisation that he’d changed into this creative, cosmopolitan young adult, but the place around him hadn’t grown up like he had. His career, for a while after university was difficult, but he spent a lot of time in London, testing different waters to see where he would end up.
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Photograph By CoffeetableMags on Instagram
‘I think so,’ he continues to answer telling me it was probably the best decision he could have made and if he hadn’t explored this option, he wouldn’t have been creative or had as much freedom to do his own thing and discover himself. The more I chatted with Jack the more I came to understand that Jack is putting his all into his project of Wings. Post university, Jack came back home to the realisation that he’d changed into this creative, cosmopolitan young adult, but the place around him hadn’t grown up like he had. His career, for a while after university was difficult, but he spent a lot of time in London, testing different waters to see where he would end up. He tells me about how he’s travelled a bit here and there and when I ask where his favourite place he has visited was, he was spoilt for choice. He chooses Berlin and tells me about his visit to Tempelhof Airport in his first year at university. This location was designed and built under Hitler’s command, which resonated with Jack because of its links to the war and aviation. ‘Growing up my parents both worked so I spent a lot of time with my Grandad who had a great interest in it so that’s where my love of aviation started for me.’ He explains he doesn’t really have a day job now, ‘every living moment is probably spent on Wings, it is my creative outlet…I was probably spending a minimum of an hour an evening after work, I think it has probably taken about a year to get the magazine launched.’ In the time he has spare, he enjoys
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He travelled a bit here and there and his favourite place he has visited was Berlin, specifically he visited Tempelhof Airport, in his first year at university. This location was designed and built under Hitler’s command, which resonated with Jack because of its links to the war and aviation. ‘Growing up my parents both worked so I spent a lot of time with my grandad who had a great interest in it so that’s where my love of aviation started for me.’ He doesn’t really have a day job now, ‘every living moment is probably spent on Wings, it is my creative outlet…I was probably spending a minimum of an hour an evening after work, I think it has probably taken about a year to get the magazine launched.’ In the time he has spare, he enjoys watching Arsenal play football and has a season ticket so he can go to weekly matches. Jack thinks of himself as a peaceful person, but definitely not “at one” with himself, explaining he has got traits of both an introvert and extrovert. Wings came as a project to expand his portfolio. Since his studies in Norwich, print magazines had been an interest to him, so he created Wings as a ‘dummy-run’ to experiment and show off his skills. A few friends had seen his idea telling him “this could be good” leading Jack to conduct some market research, helping him find that there was a gap in the market for a publication like Wings. ‘I didn’t want anyone to get in there before me, so we officially started Wings in October 2017, that’s when the formal discussions came. It was always going to be my goal, but at this point it was a now or never kind of decision.’ Wings is an aviation publication to cater to those who are passionate about aviation and want to tell their story.
“Growing up, my parents both worked so I spent a lot of time with my grandad who had a great interest in it so that’s where my love for aviation started for me” ‘I think it’s put nicely by my contact George Romain who says the aviation world isn’t this nerdy thing, there’s a lot of cool people doing a lot of cool stuff and it’s a very influential industry. This stuff is impacting the way we travel and the way we dress. With a well-designed and well-published magazine, it is bringing that to the limelight.’ Jack wants to bring something better to aviation journalism, emphasising heavily on photography and the magazine design, but also, he wants to give his contributors the opportunity to publish their work in a professional output, something Wings has allowed him to do. Wings tries to identify and aim for their stories to have a human side so readers can enjoy the magazine whether they’re interested in aviation or not, in the hope they do not limit their audience. Reflecting back on his journey with Wings, his biggest challenge has been the fact he is learning how to be an editor, at the same time as being an editor and he is completely on his own in this. ‘If you’re going through hell, keep going, keep being creative and don’t stop. You have to make things
happen for yourself.’ He is inspired by bouncing off other people, especially creatives, which helps ideas evolve the more you talk about them. He finds a lot of inspiration on Instagram and from other magazines that he enjoys. For example, he enjoys the early editions of Cereal Mag, particularly the way the founders Rosa Parks and Rich Stapleton represented their brand and the aesthetic they gave to their publication - he has always identified with them in his personal style. The peaceful, minimal and clean, style of Wings, and I guess you could say Jack, takes themes from Parks and Stapleton. Edvina Bruzas who runs Water Journal alongside a photographer named Toby Mitchell both inspire Jack’s work including his personal portfolio. He enjoys Instagram because he is a visual person who can connect with images more than anything else. Wings is available from the website, are currently stocked by MagCulture which is an independent magazine shop near the Barbican Centre in London and in Magalleria in Bath, again another independent magazine shop. The future of Wings Magazine and Jack McBride looks bright, with plans to grow through advertisements with a similar aesthetic and collaborations with lifestyle brands, eventually becoming more than a magazine. But for now, the next step for Wings is Volume Two. ‘Why choose Wings? Because I don’t think any other aviation publication puts this much emphasis on being accessible for all. Wings isn’t daunting and can be read by all no matter your age or experience and isn’t dull for those who are less interested in aviation but have more respect in the detail. No one does
Wings Instagram - @wingsmag Twitter - @wings_mag Website – wingsmag.co.uk Jack McBride Instagram & Twitter - @jackfmcbride
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INSPIRATION
Photograph By Jack McBride
“If you’re going through hell keep going... keep being creative and don’t stop. You have to make things happen for yourself.”
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BY JAMES RENDELL
MUSIC IN FASHION
It goes without saying that music has played a huge role in the changing trends of fashion over the past decade. With era’s such as the ‘Hippie Movement’ of the 60’s; involving the likes of The Beatle’s and music and fashion icon Jimi Hendrix, who introduced the psychedelic appearance of dip dye clothing. Then saw the infamous Vivienne Westwood take to the industry with a Punk look, with many thanks to the punk rock band The Sex Pistols, who Westwood was hugely involved with and inspired by in the production of her punk garments, varying from bondage and motorcyclist themed clothing. A couple of decades on came Grunge. Grunge was hugely thankful to both musician Kurt Cobain and fashion designer Marc Jacobs. Jacobs took Grunge to the catwalk when collaborating with Perry Ellis in 1992, the collaboration was such a success that the likes of VOGUE were hugely interested, the catwalk featured infamous models such as Naomi Campbell wearing Kurt Cobain relaxed fit inspired garments. The key features of Grunge seem to be going nowhere, even in the modern day. Kanye West, musician now-turned fashion designer, is hugely obsessed with the idea of oversized garments, as expressed in his Yeezy clothing range. The idea of oversized clothing would have to date back to the Grunge phase, fashion brand Vetements also seems to have taken interest in oversized garments. Grunge has also influenced luxury fashion brands such as Gucci and Dsquared2, both brands have taken a liking to ripped jeans, being high selling products for both brands.
Credit: Photograph - Steven Meisel, Vogue, December 1992. Naomi Campbell & Kristen McMenamy.
The most recent impact of genre on the fashion industry is a combination of rap, hip-hop and grime. Musicians such as Stormzy and Skepta are often seen wearing full Adidas tracksuits as a fashion statement, Skepta even rapped about wearing tracksuits at fashion events being acceptable. Sportswear brands have increased in size due to the music industry, Nike included, it is almost impossible to walk the streets and not see someone wear a pair of Nike Air Force 1’s on their feet.
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CREDITS:
Skepta, a UK grime artist, proudly states he was able to sport a black tracksuit whilst sat front row at a fashion show. This is a fashion statement of change, fashion shows have almost always welcomed celebrities who would be dressed in their best, never imaging a tracksuit worn front row by one. Skepta rapping about being able to has now made it the norm, to wear tracksuits with style. The tracksuit is evolving to adapt to, not only grime artists lifestyles, but to all. Recent trends supported by BoohooMan, ASOS and Zara show a new style of tracksuit being sold known as the ‘smart jogger’. Smart joggers are essentially a comfortable office-wear garment, often in tartan or pinstripe pattern. However, it is not only the smart jogger which is publicly worn as a fashion statement, sportswear branded tracksuits like Adidas and Nike are worn not just for comfort but as a fashion statement. It is a question
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J t i 5 a
INSPIRATION
Went to the show, Sitting front row, In the black tracksuit, and its shutdown There have already been many collaborations between music and fashion, suggesting the two industries compliment each other. Adidas have in the pastt been active with Pharrell, creating a tennis collection. Kanye West now has a strong connection with Adidas with his globally respected ‘Yeezy’ collection, which has expanded to kidswear, thanks to help from his wife Kim Kardashian. Another popular collaboration between fashion and musician would be A$AP Rocky and Guess, which saw modern day music take a trip back to the 90s featuring denim, stripes and oversized fitting. Rihanna arguably the most prolific female music icon to this day is also family to the fashion industry having done work with River Island, Armani Jeans and her Fenty x Puma collection in 2018 having the most success.
Credit: skeptagram, july 28 2018 instagram
ROCK N' FASHION credit: liamgallagher, instagram August 24, 2018
It is not only rap and hip-hop musicians of the present day voicing their views on fashion to the public, but past rock bands and icons such as The Beatles and Jimi Hendrix that are still play a role in today’s fashion. A more recent brand is Pretty Green, an indie rock influenced fashion brand has performed collaborations with both The Beatles and Jimi Hendrix in the past year. The company was originally set up by Rockstar Liam Gallagher, who is renowned for performing in a parka coat, which is the brands lead selling garment. Pretty Green, along with a number of rock influenced fashion brands, aim to bring the rock era of the 50s and 60s back. “Since the birth of rock ‘n’ roll in the late 1950s, British street culture has been influencing fashion and music worldwide. Pretty Green has an authenticity borne of a deep understanding of that culture and the things that make it relevant today.” – (Pretty Green, 2009)
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FEATURE
Career SPOILED NATION 2018/2019
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CAREER
How to get your dream job
Speaking with Victoria Reddington - creator of Fashion Pony (a fashion marketing agency based in Leeds) who’s worked with big names such as, Burberry, Harvey Nichols and Zara about her journey to success and how to achieve your own career goals.
BY FAYE WARDELL Victoria studied English Literature at Sheffield university however, she never knew what she wanted to do and back then there were no fashion marketing courses, so work experience was the only way into the industry. She knew she enjoyed being creative and art, and because she was only in university 9 hours a week, she was able to accumulate lots of work experience to find her niche. She would travel to Leeds from Sheffield to work for Principles advertising agency twice a week for free, accomplishing a 3-year job through the process straight out of university. However, after starting off in PR thinking it was going to be her passion, 3 days in she knew it wasn’t for her. Through circumstances she ended up helping another team in advertising and thought it was great, “I loved the advertising side and ‘made’ them take me on when someone went on maternity leave”. After having a career in advertising agencies, she then moved on to working with a publicist in London for a while and a binary in Manchester and that’s where she was able to focus on the fashion side. After working mainly on TV advertising, (which she loved) she found she wasn’t fulfilled enough in digital side of marketing so, set up her own platform for independent fashion designers called Fashion Pony. Fashion Pony was a retail platform that supported independence, working closely with clients and put on shows for them all around the country to build up her portfolio. “It was all about networking and I can’t stress networking enough, going out there, meeting people and talking to people - finding the opportunities”. However, it wasn’t all plane sailing, Victoria’s business nearly went under a couple of times. After becoming very successful Victoria kept all their stock in a filming house, which ended up going under. It took 3 weeks for the liquidators to come before they could prove that it was their stock and get it back. In those 3 weeks all their customers lost trust in her company and didn’t want to collaborate with her again. After losing most of her connections she had to build the company’s reputation and gain new customers but, then got targeted by fraud, sending the business 15,000 in debt. Through perseverance and tenacity Victoria started again and built it all back from scratch, paying off her debts. However, this journey allowed Victoria to learn and discover the ‘why’ behind what kept her focused and moving forward through difficult times. It was this journey that gave Victoria the insight into visualising and creating her dream job and is what makes her a great role model.
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Visioning Use your vision as a central navigation system and keep checking back to see if your aligned.
Pick a time frame: in the present tense put yourself somewhere in the future and quickly write down using freehand where you want to be.
CAREER
Be specific: list what you’d be doing in the job role and write exactly what the job and environment looks like, how it feels, the smells, the people working around you. Create a complete picture of your future self in your perfect job. Create a mood board: use inspirational images of what your dream job will look like.
Finding your why
Keep your why at the core of everything you do.
What is your motivation? What makes you happy? Is it money? Self-reliance? Family? Put your motivation as something you will always refer back to in order to ground yourself and keep focusing on why you’re working so hard and to drive you through any knockbacks. Specific: the clearer you are the easier it is to get there, for example, don’t say you want to earn loads, say how much you want to earn and by when.
Action plans and goals
Make them SMART!
Measurable and achievable: pick an achievable number of steps towards your goal and set daily/weekly/monthly milestones to measure. Relevant: don’t set goals which aren’t relevant to your end goal or that won’t help you on your way to your career success. Time: set your timeframe of completion.
Networking Get out there.
Find a mentor
Find the opportunities and seize them, if there’s a relevant event on, why aren’t you going? Make the connections and find out who they are connected to and get connecting with them. Someone who is passionate about what you are and sponge their knowledge, they’re the people who will increase your contact base and give potential career opportunities. Start following relevant groups on Facebook, liking their posts and leaving comments. Do that for 3 weeks and then message them directly and they’ll probably recognise your name because you’ve warmed them up, so they’ll be more likely to help you.
And finally, … Do something every single week to work towards your goal, whether that’s, researching who it is in the industry you want to connect with and take action on it, or researching and planning. 59
Travel SPOILED NATION 2018/2019
BY OLIVIA WATSON
We decided to sit down and chat to a 20-yearold student from Manchester, Eve Shaw, to get a first-hand insight into a typical day in the city. Granted, different generations will have different perapectives, but we thought we would delve into the mind of a student to get an opinion from generation z. Not only this but we will also be getting Eve to lay down the similarities and differences between her hometown of Manchester and that of which she studies in; Leeds. Q: “So Eve, how long have you lived in Manchester for?” A: “Are we counting Wilmslow as Manchester?” Q: “Yes we are as it’s the outskirts.” A: “Okay, that would be about twenty years as I’ve lived there my whole life.” Q: “Cool, so tell us Eve, your typical day in Manchester, where would you go? What would you do? Enlighten us.” A: “Right, so if I were to be going shopping, I’d head towards the Arnedale and Market Street as they are the easiest to get to and that is where you can find all your everyday high street shops. I wouldn’t usually think to venture to the Trafford Centre.” Q: “Oh really, why wouldn’t you venture to the Trafford Centre?” A: “It is not as accessible as Manchester, there is no public transport to and from, unlike the city centre where it is just a direct train journey from Wilmslow.” Q: “So other than the Arnedale and Market street where else would you often venture to in Manchester?” A: “Well if I was going out for food or somewhere like that I would probably go somewhere like the Northern Quarter, that’s got a lot of really nice quirky bars and restaurants like Home Sweet Home.” Q: “Is the Northern Quarter somewhere you would choose to go for its nightlife as well?” A: “Yes of course! That is where I usually go if we were to go out, its got bars such as Twenty Twenty Two’s, a cool ping-pong Bar, and Mint Lounge are two of my favourites.”
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Q: “Cool! Now we have spoken about the Northern Quarter, would you ever think or choose to venture to other areas of the city such as Spinningfields or Deansgate?” A: “Honestly no, especially with being a student, they are just so expensive! Well Spinningfields is and Deansgate, in my opinion, is just a bit too higher class for my liking.” Q: “I see. We wanted to ask your opinion of the similarities and differences between Manchester and the city you study in, Leeds. Do you see many comparisons between the two cities?” A: “Now you mention it, I really do. I don’t think a lot of people actually realise that they have a lot of similarities in both their day and night life.” Q: “Could you give us some examples of what you think the similarities are?” A: “Personally I see Leeds as a smaller version of Manchester, it’s all just a little more compact. You have Trinity as the central city shopping centre with Briggate close by where you’d find all the high street shops, similar to the Arnedale and Market Street. Victoria Gate reminds me a bit of Spinningfields, more upmarket and then you’ve got the Corn Exchange with bars around there that to me, are similar to the Northern Quarter.” Q: “Well there you have it, think you’ve hit the nail on the head with the smaller Manchester suggestion. Thanks Eve for sharing the time to chat with us.” A: “No, thank you, anytime!”
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TRAVEL
FEATURE
“Personally, I see Leeds as a smaller Manchester.”
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