Athleisure by oliviafew

A/L Fig 1

OLIVIA FEW N0424096 FASH30002 NEGOTIATED PROJECT STAGE 2 IS THERE SPACE FOR A FASHIONABLE SPORTSWEAR BRAND TARGETED AT GENERATION NEXT? WORDS - 6600

Fig 2 - Athleisurewear

CONTENTS 01. INTROUDTCION 02. OLD FOOTAGE Relevant background 03. CHAMPIONS VISION The key insights 04. THE RUNWAY! Cretive process 05. ALLURING COLLECTION Final outcomes 06. THE FINISH LINE Concluesion 07. CLOSING CEREMONY (APPENDIX)

01 INTRODUCTION â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Sport can, and does, make a profound and positive impact on individuals, communities and wider society,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Sports England, 2015).

Fig 3

‘To assume that sportswear finally grew up, wouldn’t be such an incorrect presumption,’ (Fashionising, 2015). Sports is something the vast majority of today’s society takes part in. In England during the year 2014, 15.6million people aged 16 years and over played sport at least once a week, (Sports England, 2015). Sports can be seen in a competitive manor or create a healthier lifestyle, in some cases both. ‘Sport can, and does, make a profound and positive impact on individuals, communities and wider society,’ (Sports England, 2015). It has the ability to bring people together.

This report will look at sportswear in terms of fashion and how the two industries have been working together to create this new convenient look for all generations. Athletic apparel has become a broad term in recent years. It isn’t just clothing for athletes and people doing exercise anymore. Now it’s common to wear athletic apparel for casual day wear. It’s as much about fashion as it is performance, (Sports Statricity, 2013). Looking at the history of sportswear and seeing how it has developed over time has given some real insight and allowed this report to look at how important sportswear actually is to the industry. 5

Focusing on the younger generation came after further research into this topic to see that, young girls especially, may opt to not participate in a sport or activity due to the uniform required, (Thompson, 2014). Therefore the aims of this report involve understanding the fashion of the sports industry and whether it has become more fashionable or practical. To see at what point sportswear became a more casual outfit than for training purposes and to also look at how the younger generation are involved in sport and how sportswear may affect them.

02. OLD

FOOTAGE

Fig 4

FALSE START OR WAS IT?

‘In the history of dressing for sport, we appear to have the perfect illustration of this phenomena, where the forces of classicism and novelty operate together through the concept of fashion as a recurring process,’ (Salazar, 2008, pg24). This period in time had led women to be in the shadow of men when it came to sport, especially in the eye of the media, (Devine, 2012). Back in the 20th century, it was not important for women to win at competitive sports. Therefore, the attire was designed to make them look more feminine than to give them the movement they would need to excel, (Weston Thomas, 2015). It was in 1913 when Coco Chanel began selling sportswear for women in her Paris Salon, (See Figure 5). However it wasn’t really until 1918 that the first sportswear and genuinely feminine swimwear began to appear on the fashion scene, (McGlinchey, 2015). Moving forward, the 1920’s was classed as the ‘the sporting life’ and continued into the 1930’s where it was emphasized that clothing for active women was the necessity in sportswear.

Like men, women started to wear sportswear on a more regular basis. From this American designers became skilled at and known for their sportswear, reflecting the more casual lifestyle. Hoping it would eventually influence the rest of the world, (Stephens-Frings, 2008). The concept of ready-to-wear didn’t really exist, but sportswear meant that women had more options and choices to present themselves. Brands like Lacoste, were first introduced for men, but shortly, women’s clothing followed the trend of sportswear as well, if not quite so literally, (Hemline Quarterly, 2011). 8

Fig 5- Coco Chanel 1913 Sportswear

During this period in the late 20th century, many designers cashed in on the late sportswear boom which Nike launched in the US in 1971, (Cosgrave, 2000, pg245). This influence of sporting tradition and innovation on the development of fashion has many historical patterns that have made sport, as fashion historian, Elizabeth Wilson proclaims, ‘possibly the most important 20th century influence in fashion,’ (Salazar Ligaya, 2008, page 9). In the 1970’s, (See Figure 6), sports and exercise, such as jogging, became genuinely popular. Fashion wasn’t lost in the race, and soon everyone had a jogging suit, even those who didn’t run. By the 1980’s, active sportswear was a firmly established fashion category. Designers and manufacturers created clothing for every sport, (Stephens-Frings, 2008).

This history has led to today’s sportswear being defined to encompass the entire spectrum, ranging from functional sportswear to sports-inspired designer clothes, (Salazar Ligaya, 2008, page 9). Research suggests that athletes have two types of body image, one in sport and one outside, (Thompson, 2014). It’s interesting to think that sportswear can impact the interest and willingness of people to participate in some sports, especially women due to some sportswear being so revealing, (Stankovich, 2013).

Fig 6 - 1978 Men's Fashion Advertisement Vintage 1970s Menswear 8 Dacron Sportswear

It can be hard to dismiss the stress of physical appearance when you’re running around in short skirts and spandex, (Savage, 2012). People moving forward from that are starting to wear clothing built for sport that was closely fitted to the body and enabled movement. This type of sportswear had moved away from echoing the daily fashion worn and became unto fashion itself, (The evolution of sport fashion, 2011). This is what designers are starting notice and are using it to their advantage.

Fig 8 - Nike x Pedro Lourenรงo

‘NIKE ISN’T A FASHION BRAND. WE’RE LISTENING TO THE NEEDS OF ATHLETES AND WE’RE SOLVING THEM WITH INNOVATIVE SOLUTIONS. BUT WE’RE ACKNOWLEDGING THE FASHION SIDE OF EXPERIENCE WITH SPORT,’

Predo Lourenço in 2014 collaborated with sportswear giant’s Nike to create an 11 piece line up of the modern interpretation of athletic apparel for women. Like all Nike products, the Nike x Pedro Lourenço Collection, (See Figure 8), aims to amplify the athlete’s confidence and help her achieve her fitness goals, (Nike, 2014). ‘Nike isn’t a fashion brand. We’re listening to the needs of athletes and we’re solving them with innovative solutions. But we’re acknowledging the fashion side of experience with sport,’ (MelleryPratt, 2015), said Julie Igarashi, Nike’s vice president of global design. 11

Throughout the collection, Lourenço not only employs materials that perform, yet are soft and feminine, he uses Nike technologies as a functional aesthetic detailing, (Nike, 2014). One of the things we recognise is that there is no performance without style,’ Nike president Trevor Edwards, (Mellery-Pratt, 2015). It’s seeing brands like Nike adopting the fashion that makes the industry move forward. If a brand wants to make it, they have to embrace different aspects of fashion.

It’s not just sports brands that are adopting fashion but fashion brands are adopting in sport. H&M collaborated with Alexander Wang to create a futuristic and edgy collection full of sports influences (See Figure 9). Margareta van den Bosch, H&M brand creative advisor said, ‘We choose Wang because we had never made a sport collection and I think he really brought sport into fashion,’ (Kilcooley-O’Halloran, 2014). Further research has led to find that many women describe themselves as ‘not sporty’ and that gendered expectations value women’s bodies in terms of what they look like rather than what they can do, according to two university lectures, Simone Fullagar and Jessica Francombe-Webb, (Fullagar and Francombe-webb, 2014). Moreover, as H&M pride themselves on being an affordable brand, they like their collections to touch many different tiers for many different audiences. It doesn’t matter if you’re more of a luxury consumer or a H&M one, there’s a piece and price for everyone, (Kilcooley-O’Halloran, 2014). Therefore, these women who are classing themselves as not sporty, will be able to find something they’re comfortable in and not feel as judged. Brands like H&M and Nike are showing that sports fashion has finally moved from being influenced by particular sports, to being more about generic sporty twists and sleek athletic line. The athletic influences are no longer that obvious and when they are, something about them screams pure luxury, (Fashionising, 2015).

Fig 9 - Alexander Wang x H&M, 2014

NOT QUITE AN ADULT Looking at Generation Z, 3-19 year olds, they’re the generation to look out for, (Glum, 2015). “The young people want to take an active role in their communities and their futures. It’s an upbeat group that’s full of passion,”(Levit, 2015). Gen Z take part in sport and activates for more functional or lifestyle reasons rather than to compete. Brands need to keep engaging with them, providing feedback on what actually matters to them and not what matters to the sport. Sport often has to compete with wider interests or priorities that this generation have. They respond well to meaningful experiences, ones that will benefit them as an individual and reinforce them in their place in their social group, (Sports England, 2014). There is something uniquely bonding about getting actively involved in sport, especially if you had a somewhat anxious relationship with it at school, (Armstrong, 2014). Many people start playing sports from a young age, (See Figure 10), and develop an emotional connection that tends to lead to forming a sport habit for life.

Fig 10 - National Sports Day at Primary School, 2015

A 2014 Sports England review into young people’s lives found sport needs to adapt how it presents itself to broaden its reach and increase the proportion of young people regularly participating. 14

‘47% OF SCHOOL GIRLS BELIEVE THAT THE PRESSURE TO LOOK ATTRACTIVE IS THE MOST NEGATIVE PART OF BEING A FEMALE.’

Starting sport from a young age can be for many different reasons and as young people get older, motivations start to change. Health and fitness, looking and feeling good are becoming more important to young people than taking part for the fun, (Sports England, 2014). Playing sports in schools has always been a part of the curriculum but after the Olympics, the Government policy is actually now encouraging more competition, more team sports and more traditional sports. However, this won’t work for everyone, as the teenage girl demographic have a widely tricky combination of being vulnerable, self-conscious and stubborn, (Nugent, 2012).

But why? 47% of school girls believe that the pressure to look attractive is the most negative part of being a female, (Featherstone, 2011). The underlying reason 10-15 year olds don’t take part in sports is believed to be directly linked to body image and body conscious issues. Being embarrassed in front of others was also another reason why younger people, especially girls, prefer not to participate in sport or be an active participant in their physical education class, (Rase, 2011). The Olympics has been hugely inspirational, particularly for teenage girls. 15

They’re seeing so many different body shapes and different types of women participating in these games, its showing them it doesn’t matter who you are or what you look like, you can still be accepted, (Magowan, 2015). Sports uniforms have definitely changed over the years, mostly because of the advanced technology that is allowing athletes to run, twist, jump and swim more effectively, (Stankovich, 2013). But why hasn’t anything been done about the style. You can’t partake in sports without attire and most young people want to feel comfortable with what they’re wearing, look good in it and not feel conscious, (See Appendix 5).

Fig 11 - Tech Savvy

Looking at Generation Z in a different light, they’re a tech savvy generation that has no problem accessing information from multiple sources, (See Figure 11), (Glum, 2015). They view technology as an extension of themselves and consider it to be their virtual playground. This generation are highly connected and enjoy lifelong use of the web, instant messaging and mobile phones. But are not star-struck by technology, like many in Generation X and Y, they accept it and judge its worth by what they can achieve with it.

They expect to communicate directly with brands and extensively research their purchases online, making careful price comparisons, (Kemp, 2014). This generation are being more cautious with their spending and are being driven to primarily buy new clothes in order to replace old or worn out items. Yet they are fashion forward, so this habit is subject to change, (Mintel, 2014). 16

On a whole sportswear is becoming a bigger part of today’s society with people wearing it on a more day to day basis for fashion and comfort as well as using it for fitness. The best kind of generation to target this report at are Generation Z, also been referred to as Generation Next, as they’re the most inclined generation to buy new clothes that are driven by a fashion trend, (Mintel, 2014).

Fig 12 - Jean Harlow

Fig 13

03. CHAMPIONS

Fig 14

VISION

Fig 14

‘FITNESS IS NO LONGER WHAT YOU DO, IT’S WHO YOU ARE,’ (Armstrong, 2014).

Dressing as though you exercise, has become one of the many desirable fashion tropes, (See Figure 15). Amy Montagne, VP of Nike Women’s comments, ‘fitness is no longer what you do, it’s who you are,’ (Armstrong, 2014). It’s even being brought to the catwalk at fashion weeks, emerging the trend that is fashionable active wear, (Mudpie, 2010). And many of Generation Next are buying in to this trend. But is there enough out there for them, where they’re not just classed as a junior or under the same umbrella as their parents? In 1965, sheer numbers of under 25s brought increased buying power and encouraged a youthorientated market. Reminiscent of the 1920’s, young people’s tastes were to dominate the fashion scene through the 1970’s, (StephensFrings, 2008). This hasn’t changed.

Fig 15 - Dressing as through you exercise 20

LET’S TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT THAT

According to a recent study on Style.com, roughly half the people buying ‘active wear’ these days are buying it for ‘as casual and everyday-wear,’ (Tice-Studeman, 2014). A student at Peterborough Regional college mentioned within a focus group, ‘Practical as well, I like going to the gym and like before, I want to be comfortable and have support so I can work out more. I buy from Nike. However, even though I say I buy for practical reasons, I say I go to Nike because at the moment it’s really the only place I can think of where their items are fashionable so I can look good when I just want to wear them to collage,’ (See Appendix 5). Even though this is just one person’s opinion, several others agreed. Exercisers today want to look sleek, fashionable and pulled together. Expressly designed to look good inside or outside the gym, they typify the new breed of performance-wear, (Armstrong, 2014). 21

With Generation Next in mind, they can range from 3-19. However, research has led to finding that even though people start playing sports in primary school, 1618s are the ones who start to get conscious of what their peers think of them, (Sports England, 2015), and those that are growing up to be more financially provident, (See Figures 16), (Mintel, 2014). Breaking this generation down even more, this project is looking at those who take part in noncompetitive sports and those who like to wear sportswear on a day to day basis. It will also be focusing on women due to the fact that there has been a lot more around for men than there has for women, (Campbell Warner, 2015). With the rise of women partaking in sports, it felt necessary to see what’s already out there for them and what is missing.

Fig 16 - Consumer Profile

GENERATION NEXT 16-18 FEMALE SPORT AND FITNESS FASHION

Fig 16 - Consumer Profile

Fig 31 - Irving Penn 23

THEY DIDN’T QUITE MANAGE TO GET THEIR LEG OVER...

‘OBVIOUSLY NO BRAND CAN TARGET EVERYONE BUT THEY COULD TRY,’

16-18s seem to only consider brands like Nike, Sports Direct, Adidas, TKMax and JD sports as places to buy sportswear from. Yet, 73% said that there was something missing within the sport industry, (See Appendix 6). Speaking to this generation has shown that they don’t really know about the fashion brands who are releasing sportswear because the brands are still targeting their usual consumers. Each brand, whether a sports brand or fashion brand, have their own target audience and own values. H&M say they have a keen understanding of their target market, which is the low price, high fashion end of the clothing sector. They enjoy a strong following among women, particularly those in younger age groups, who make up the majority of its customers, (Research and markets, 2007).

They say they target ‘young people’, but this could range from 3-18. Yet their kids section only goes up to 14. Why? Does that mean 15+ are classed as adults or are they saying that the young people are those that shop in the adult section? It just doesn’t seem clear. None the less, looking at their new active-wear collection with Alexander Wang, they seem to be moving away from that younger age group and say they really want to push the price point which portrays a more ‘premium’ message to consumers,” (Fumo, 2014). Surely their younger consumers wouldn’t be able to afford these prices when their only just supporting themselves? Then there’s Nike for instance. They target their products mainly at sportsmen. They target these consumers through product sponsorship and eventual promotion to the members of these teams. 25

Nike like to target people who are more likely to buy those products and even though others are likely to buy, Nike pays specific emphatic targeting to the athlete more than any group of individuals, (Ramai, 2011). Nike don’t have a specific age but their kids range goes up to 15, classing anyone older as an adult as well as only really focusing on men. This could be why these 16-18s are struggling to find fashionable sportswear. ‘I feel there could be a gap for a store for us as sometimes it’s hard to find places like that and I feel that if a new brand was to do this, it would go well as they would really understand us and what we want. Obviously no brand can target everyone but they could try,’ (See Appendix 5). This was from the focus group held at Peterborough Regional college by a student asked if they felt there was a gap in the market for a fashionable sportswear brand for this generation.

Some brands like Adidas are starting to realise this gap and have just released â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Stella Sportâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, (See Figure 17). The collection is aimed to be a younger, bolder and more affordable line for the young, current and vibrant girl, looking to make a statement and stand out. The German brand targets this collection to 15 to 19 year olds and is priced between $20 to $100, (Fernandez, 2015). This is exactly what Adidas are good at. They know that sportswear is very much lifestyle and there is much more fashion being brought to the brand. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what their consumer wants, (Mellery-Pratt, 2015). Having a collection suitable for the younger generation of their target audience is definitely the right step to take. However, the age gap between 15-19s is quite large and leaves that difference of interest from a school kid to a university student or working man or women. Therefore, like suggested by a college student, a whole new brand for the age of 16-18s would be beneficial as it would be suited better towards their tastes and styles, according to a response on a survey, (See Appendix). Never the less, another student from the focus group mentioned, no brand can target everyone, so it would need to be people who are into fitness and want easier access to fashionable sportswear for all their needs.

Fig 17 16 - Stella Sports

04. THE

Fig 18 - The Runway

RUNWAY

Fig 19 - Athleisure Trend

THIS GAME NEEDS A GOAL...

Fig 20 - Not as made up as people think

Athleisure is a buzzword for the fashion industry, a hybrid of sportswear and the rest of your wardrobe, (See Figure 19). It translates to clothes that look a bit sporty but don’t need to be accessorised with a yoga mat and a smoothie. Like designer Richard Nicoll said, ‘I think performance clothing will become increasingly stylish and less ‘sporty’-looking,’ (Cochrance, 2015). What better way to help this trend develop than to create a new brand under the name of this surefire style trend.

Looking at the SCQA model, the situation that has occurred is that fashion brands have brought out sportswear collections and sportswear brands have brought out more fashionable sportswear. Yet the complication is that they haven’t targeted the younger generation of 16-18s. So the question is, how can they do this or how can the industry find a way to make it more accessible for this generation? The answer, make that new brand specifically for 1618s with the name Athleisure. 31

Athleisure as a trend is suddenly becoming less of a made-up word and more a real thing, (See Figure 20). This sector will grow by around 24% in the next five years, suggests Jessica Fioriti of retail analyst Verdict: “It used to be that only sportswear brands like Nike and Adidas were popular. We’ve seen a change recently where consumers are willing to buy fashion brands doing sportswear.” (Cochrance, 2015).

After sending out a survey within this generation, 73% from the survey said they would be interested in a sportswear brand just for them, (See Figure 21) with answers like it will make it easier to find, suited better to them and to their taste, (See Appendix 6). This point goes back to the fact people are always on the go and sometimes, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just the same for these students who might not live close to where they study. With this all in mind, Athleisure is the perfect name for this new brand as its up and coming and this generation are the future, (Glum,2015). 45% of 15-17s are driven to buy clothes due to a new fashion trend, (Mintel, 2014), so those that are interested in sport would be encouraged to buy from this brand.

Fig 21 - Is a new sportswear brand a good idea?

73% SAID YES

Even though sport stores remain popular, they have lost out to the fashion retailers, whom have expanded their sports ranges, (Mintel, 2014). But combining the two seems to be the only way forward.

27% SAID NO

‘By demonstrating the behaviour that your fans want to see, in turn, you’ll build their trust,’ (Beswick, 2015). Athleisure will value it’s consumers feedback and will be a brand based on this. It wants to be different, stand out from its competitors. To do this, the brand will allow consumers to have control. They will have the chance to send in designs they’d like to see, collaborations they’d like to happen and events they’d like the brand to attend or hold. As this trend is moving forward, Athleisure will be focusing on the fashion element of sportswear but will remember that the performance element is also important to many of Generation Next, (See Appendix 5).

CLEARING THAT HURDLE...

Developing the brand forward, a logo was needed to be able to establish the name and its identity. After looking at its main competitors and seeing how they’ve branded themselves, allowed this project to explore ways in which a logo would be suited to this generation. Nike and Adidas have both very simply, black and white logos with some form of symbol that people will recognise if the brand name isn’t attached. The simplicity works well for a sportswear brand as its memorable. But if looking at combining fashion, it just doesn’t stand out enough. Then there’s the likes of H&M and Boohoo, who’s logos are again very simply but add an element of colour at the attempt of making them more fashionable. They don’t scream sportswear at all. Therefore, Athleisure’s logo has to be combination of the two to have a chance of standing out against these big names in both areas of the industry, (See Appendix 8.1).

Fig 22 - Main competitors

The designs for the brand will be created by a student at Nottingham Trent University after being shown inspiration from Athleisure’s competitors, (See Appendix 19). The designs will need to be fun and playful, with an added element that will make the consumers feel confident and comfortable. As for the pricing of the products, Athleisure wants them to be affordable that their consumers don’t have to go to their parents for extra money. Looking at their main competitors, (See Figure 22), the pieces will range from £15-£40 depending on what they buy. 34

Athleisure will become an online store due to the fact the target audience are the first group to really grow up with the internet and wouldn’t know a world without technology, (Glum, 2015).

Saks Fifth Avenue might be able to help with that. In 2013, they launched a Virtual Fitting Room App that wants to change the face of online shopping, (See Appendix 20),

However, many of the respondents from both the survey and focus group said they prefer to shop instore. Answers were only because it allows them to try the items on, (See Appendix 5/6). Still, this is quite surprising.

The app allows you to ‘model’ the clothes on an avatar with your own body shape. Partnered with Stylewhile, Saks Fifth Avenue has taken images of its clothes available for purchase and allowed them to be pasted onto an avatar of your own body shape and personalization.

They own and use five different screens to access many channels yet they prefer to leave the house and shop. Who knew? They might be looking for something more authentic and inspiring as their attentions are more complicated than before, (Glum, 2015).

The app allows a mix and match option of different products and accessories to create your own outfits, (Mckernan, 2013). This sort of device would be ideal for Generation Next as it allows them to be specific before ordering and gives them chance to see what fits comfortably as well as looking good as a full outfit.

Fig 23 - A/L Fitting App

Athleisure will develop an app, (See Figure 23), that will be very similar to the one that Saks Fifth Avenue made, in terms that it will allow consumers to send or scan in their measurements and create an avatar of themselves to try things on. The app will be called A/L Fitting and will update every time the website does. The two will link all details that are stored. This means once your measurements are in you can access the site online or via the app and the details will appear. It gives the consumer a chance to personal their own account, add and change details as well as having full access to the site.

Fig 24 - Nikeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Website

Looking at the website, competitors of the brands was a good place to start. Most of their websites are quite simple and easy to use. The guide is basic and offers something different to what another site might offer. For example, Nikes website, (See Figure 24), offers an option for specific sports items to help their audience find exactly what they need. The site doesn’t really offer anything else that would make them stand out. Then again, they are a sports brand and what they’re doing is selling well for who they are. As for the aesthetics of their site, you can instantly tell it’s a sporting brand which is great. It’s scroll across display screen is a fantastic way to demonstrate what they have to offer and what their sportswear can do. The site tells its audience everything they need to know, (See Appendix 9).

Fig 25- Topshop Website

Then there’s fashion websites like Topshop, (See Figure 25). Topshop offers an array of elements that isn’t just about the clothes. They want their consumers to get the best of everything from reading their magazine to buying their latest in fashion. The aesthetics of this website are again very simple and very branded. The front display page, like others, are in a grid format, making it easy for the user to find what they’re looking for. However, having to scroll down quite far down to see what is at the bottom isn’t ideal. You should be captured from the minute you’re on the site, (See Appendix 9).

Athleisure wants to combine the two so their consumer gets the best of both worlds. They want to make their site easy and simply to use as this generations attention spans are getting shorter, (Saettler, 2014). The website will allow consumers to sign up for free to gain extra benefits that will make them want to revisit the site. As this generation are looking for something more authentic and inspiring, (Glum, 2015), the standard website just won’t do. If they haven’t signed up, they can’t access the whole site, they can only view the collections but not actual purchase anything. 38

Once signed they will gain all the benefits Athleisure has to offer, (See Appendix 21). What more could a female college student want! Well, Athleisure will be offering their one time only magazine for the first 50 people that sign up to their website and it won’t be accessible to those after. The reason for this is, Athleisure wants to create a buzz about its launch and wants people to feel special.

OH I SAY

Fig 26 - Athleisure Magazine

The one off magazine will be a small A5 document that gives these first 50 people something the rest of the Athleisureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s customers wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t experience. It will be a little token to say thank you for joining the brand. The magazine, (See Figure 26) will be produced on InDesign and will copy a simple magazine layout to make it look more professional. Looking at inspiration, (See Appendix 10), there are a few examples that have helped the process of this magazine. Not only with the layout but with the content as well Athleisure want it to be something Generation Next will be excited about receiving and will want to show it off. 39

For the online look-books, looking online and offline for inspiration helped to see what works well and what doesn’t, (See Appendix 11). For online, competitors were the clear choice to look at. Adidas and Stella McCarthy’s look-book for Stella Sports contains the attire and a brief description of what the collection is about. Simple and to the point, perfect for their target market, (See Figure 27).

Looking at a fashion look-book, H&M and Alexander Wang’s look-book on Vogue was again extremely basic, (See Figure 28). After a small block of text, they had the scroll across effect. This effect makes it feel as if you’re looking through a book, which creates that physical presence, (See Appendix 11). It seems that many of the online versions are basic and the scroll across designs to make it easy to demonstrate what’s being shown.

Fig 28 H&M Look-Book

Fig 27 Stella Sports Look-Book

Looking at more physical lookbooks for layout, Pinterest was a good starting point. Finding a look-book by Friend Of Mine, (See Appendix 11), was very beneficial as it was exactly what Athleisure is looking for, (See Figure 29). The document is so simple, it just contains the photos with a small description. Nothing more nothing less, just a few boxes to add extra detail. This is something that Athleisure wants to adopt. Both the simple elements from online and offline but including a brief text in the print about the collection like the online versions.

Fig 29 - Friend of Mine Look-Book 41

The photos in the look-book will also be used as promotional material to get the name of the brand out there, showcasing the best elements of the sportswear. Images will be taken within the gym to show off their potential when working out. For the photos to catch the right audience, they need to be playful and alluring. Like the ‘This Girl Can’ campaign, (See Appendix), the images will provide encouraging tag lines to make them feel confident and comfortable within an Athleisure outfit. None the less, Athleisure is targeting a younger generation so will need to consider the copy they use if they want to target the right consumer. These photos will take inspiration from several photographers that give off the effect Athleisure want to show.

Firstly, Bruce Weber’s photography (See Figure 30). Weber presents an idealised youthful energy and sexuality throughout his work. He uses codes of physical beauty, class cliques and active lifestyles, (See Appendix 13.1). All of which Athleisure wants to adopt. Photos inspired by Weber will in hope, attract the right audience. Then there’s the likes of George Hoyningen-Huene and Irving Penn’s photography. HoyningenHuene became famous for his sportswear photography in 1925 and uses classical settings, (See Figure 31). He uses elements of dance, sport and evolving cinematography with classical art references to make his photos the way they are, (See Appendix 13.2). Penn’s work is a tonal composition with a graphic understanding for abstract tonal contrast, (See Figure 32). The composition he uses is well structured and defines the lines of his models. The tone he uses against the light really shows off his models beauty and defines them for everything they have, (See Appendix 13.3). All three of these photographers are ideal for Athleisure as they all bring a little something different to the table. Athleisure wants to adopt the simplicity, the youthfulness and relaxed feel these photographers have.

Fig 30 - Bruce Weber

Fig 31 - George Hoyningen-Huene

Fig 32 - Irving Penn 43

05. ALLURING

COLLECTION

Fig 33 - Alluring Collection

Athleisure as a new brand will need to launch and get itself known by Generation Next. Nothing just appears and becomes a success by doing nothing! Applying the AIDA (Aware, Interest, Desire, and Action) model to this project, assessing all aspects of process, Athleisure needs several aspects to make their consumer interested in buying from them.

Aware Already aware of their consumers shopping habits and who their main competitors are as well as being aware of the latest trends in the fashion and sport industries. Interest Show an interest in their consumers. Show them that they are listening; taking on board what they say and show that level of interest that makes the consumers want to be loyal. Desire To become successful amongst Generation Next, in the hope they can compete with those already out there. For all of this to become possible, the brand needs to take several actions. Action Thinking about the consumer decision journey before, during and after their connection with the brand. The action needs to have a digital marketing and social media strategy in place to be able to access Generation Next through many platforms. 46

Before

‘I‘I definitely think that social media is the best way, as probably all of us here have more than one network and check it on a regular basis. However, it would need to stand out to get my attention as I check it so often I could easily miss it,’ (See Appendix 5). This would be the start of Athleisure’s social media strategy. The brand will create pages across several social networks including, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. This generation prefer to communicate with symbols and images, speaking in emoticons and emjios, (See Figure 34). Glyphs provides context and creates subtext so they can have private conversation, (Saettler, 2014). This is something Athleisure needs to take into consideration when doing promotional work.

When it comes to starting these sites up, it can be hard to get connection with them. On Facebook, an advert would be ideal to reach the right demographic, as you can target it to the right people based on their location, age, interests and more. There’s no set cost for adverts so the brand can control how much they spend for each campaign by setting a daily or lifetime budget, (Facebook, 2015). This allows Athleisure to select how much they want to spend and the people they want to target.

Fig 34 - Emoticons and Emojis

For Twitter and Instagram, generating a hashtag is the easiest and quickest way to reach the right audience. In a recent study it was discovered that Instagram provides brands with 25% more engagement over other social platforms. Hash tagging your photos or tweets makes it easy for people to find your photo. Using a site like Icono Square will help Athleisure find the relevant hash tags that Generation Next will be using, (Lazazzera, 2014).

Looking into the digital marketing strategy, its more about the selling of the products rather than just engaging the consumer. Firstly, Athleisure will create their website but not allowing it to launch from the off. Sneak previews of the site will be shared across their social platforms to get excitement around the brand going before the full launch, (See Figure 35). The website will have taken inspiration from its competitors, to make sure they can provide everything Generation Next wants and needs.

When thinking about the audience, with Athleisure being a new brand, they need to consider what knowledge they have about the product, the sports and fashion industry and use the type of language they will understand, (Leven, 2015). Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important for Athleisure to get this right if they want to hit Generation Next and get into colleges to show them what they have to offer.

Whilst the social media and website go under construction, a press release will be conducted and sent out to colleges around the UK. The press releases will explain key steps in order to make sure its professional.

Fig 35 - Sneak Preivew of the website

Fig 36- The collection

DURING

After a few months of building a buzz around the name and Generation Next hopefully getting excited about something coming just for them, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll enjoy the next stages. The website is launched on social media and reminds the audience about the gift for the first 50 people to sign up. The magazine will be with the consumers within a day turn around if they order 1st Class Royal Mail or 3 days if they order with 2nd Class Royal Mail, (See Appendix 14). On the day of the website launch, the designer of the collection, (See Figure 36), will be available for live chats to hear opinions, ideas and share her knowledge of designing sportswear. This will allow the consumers to engage and get more out of the website than just scrolling through for clothes. The website design will be mockedup on an InDesign layout which will later be taken to a website designer who can put the site into practice. 49

Fig 35 - Pop-up store

The website will have an events section that will allow Generation Next to see where Athleisure will be travelling to on their pop-up store tour across colleges in the UK, (See Figure, 37). The tour gives college students the chance to see the products first hand. It will be a one day event that appears at the top 30 major colleges around the country,(See Appendix 14). The design for the layout of the store will be taken from inspiration and mocked-up on Photoshop to get a real feel of what it will look like, (See Appendix 15). It will then be sent to the colleges along with the Press Release so they can designate an area in which Athleisure can go. Banner Advertising will go alongside the tour in all colleges including those that they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t attend, this way everyone is aware of what this new brand has to offer. The banners will include images from the photoshoot as well as the different tag lines like the promotional material. The banners will be mocked-up on Photoshop and sent off to a company that can print them in a relevant size that will stand out against other banners. On the website and around the pop-up stores the new app, The A/L Fitting, will be demonstrated for the consumers to witness how it works. The app will be mocked-up on InDesign and will show each page as if it was on a phone, like seen previously. These images will be shown at the pop-up stores so people are making sure they access the right one. The final process the tour and social media will need to take is to announce the competitions that will sit across these platforms; Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and Snapchat. With these being four of the giant players when it comes to social media, it seems fitting that Athleisure uses them to their full ad-vantage. 51

Twitter and Instagram – The hashtags #athleisure #athleisurewhat #sportswear #fitnesswear #activewear and #fashionissports will be the main hashtags Athleisure will use. These hashtags sum up what the brand is about and the items people purchase stand for all the above. Athleisure will want their consumers to be hash-tagging from home, the gym, the shopping centre and even the pop-stores to create awareness that there is a new brand on the scene for them when it comes to sportswear. Facebook – This will be a like and share competition from the Athleisure page itself. It will be hard to start this off but hopefully with the success of the pop-up store, people will want to see more updates and on a more regular basis. The photo used for the page will be from the first pop-up store to show people what they can expect. Then there’s snapchat – This one’s quite hard. Recently Snapchat has introduced Discover for different editorial teams. It’s the result of collaboration with worldclass leaders in media to build a storytelling format that puts the narrative first, (Snapchat, 2015). This format will allow Athleisure to tell their story to all their consumers without contacting them directly. However, for those that want more, quick sneak peeks to get them excited, they’ll be able to add Athleisure on their Snapchat account, ath15.

Why would they want to take part? The consumers Athleisure target are into their sportswear and would love to receive a full set for FREE!, (See Figure 38). This is only available to one person on each social site, hopefully getting a good competition going at the excitement of knowing they could be in with a chance of a brand new stylish set of sportswear.

Fig 38 - Free Athleisure set 53

AFTER

Fig 39 - Monthly Texts

During the tour as well as after, success will be shown across Athleisureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s social media platforms. They will consist of short clips and photos that show the different elements at the tour to show those that missed out exactly what they missed and what they can get. Each social media platform will announce and tag the winners from the competitions and will give them a month to claim their price. To decide on the winner, there will be a team from the Athleisure site that will filter the photos and mentions as they come through.

The most creative and best representation of the brand will be more likely to win than those that are generic. Athleisure want their winners to stand out and make their brand stand out above their competition. Athleisure wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want the brand to die down after all of this so need to find a way to keep Generation Next interested. They will have monthly online look-books that will show the progress of the new collection as well as the finalised pieces. They will contain inspiration and designs from consumers that have put any forward. 54

They will also consider collaborations by looking at designers and celebrities that fit the brand. To do all this, the document will be made on InDesign and turned into a PDF which will be uploaded to the website for all to access. Those that have signed up will receive monthly texts to make them aware that the site has more to offer than it did before, (See Figure 39). It will let those loyal consumers know about offers, collaborations and new collections before anyone else, including the media. Athleisure want their consumers to feel as if theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re apart of the brand and apart of the process for everything.

None the less, all of this could seem quite negative towards the male population of this generation. However, Athleisure are not ruling out a male collection. They have only started off this way due to there being a bigger gap and need for female sportswear that is fashionable. After the brand is comfortable and starting to become a success within the female population of this generation, they will start to bring out a male collection. The same process will be taken and will look into what it is that males are wanting and currently missing in this area of the industry.

Fig 40 - Gymwear one

Fig 41 - Gymwear two

06. THE FINISH LINE

Athleisure is a brand that brings fashionable sportswear to Generation Next. There is a gap in the market that female students feel their isn’t enough out there for them that allows them to get the best of both worlds. They want to be able to wear their sportswear on a day to day basis and not be questioned if they’re going to the gym or not. They want to feel confident with how they look and not be judged on their body image. This is where the new brand can help. Society is moving forward and so should this industry. Many sports and fashion brands are starting to take the leap forward and combining the two but none are specifically targeting this generation. Why? Because this is the generation they were starting to forget. Not anymore. 2015 is the year Generation Next make a change. With their ‘snack media’ attention spans and being more entrepreneurial than any generation before, these industries need to move fast. Athleisure is a brand that wants to help, move things forward and show there competition what their missing out on, (Glum, 2015). ‘To assume that sportswear grew up, wouldn’t be such an incorrect presumption,’ (Fashionising, 2015).

07. CLOSING

CEREMONY

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METHODOLOGY-4 WHAT

Typeform Survey

Focus Group

WHO

16-18 year olds who are into sport

16-19 year olds at Peterborough Regional College

WHEN

15th March 2015

13th April 2015

AIM

BENEFITS

WEAKNESSES

To find out about their shopping habit, their interest in sports and sportswear. As well as if they’d be interested in a new brand for their generation

Quick, short answers making it easier to analysis. Over view of what the age group think to the project

No face to face contact. Hard to reach such a small demographic. Some answers are not detailed enough to help with the project

Like the survey, to find out about their shopping habit, their interest in sports and sportswear. As well as if they’d be interested in a new brand for their generation. It also gave a first hand experience with this generation and hearing their views on this topic.

Face to face which allowed debate. Answers backed off one another. Give chance to see body language and facial expressions to questions.

Some of this group weren’t helpful for this topic so it made it hard to get some responses. Sometimes they didn’t understand what I was talking about

FOCUS GROUP-5 Focus Group – Peterborough Regional College – 13/04/2015 12 students aged 16-19 3 male and 9 female The group were quite shy so at times were hard to get responses Introduction by my old tutor about me Introduction to my course and what my project is about Olivia (O): I’ve been looking into sportswear from its history until the current day to see the development that it has. It started back in 1913 but recently it has become more of a thing that sportswear has become more casual and less practical. How many of you in here by sportswear, this can be in any form, actual gym wear, leggings, joggers, hoodies, sports bras? Participants (P): About ¾ of the room said yes O: Like mentioned before sportswear is becoming more and more casual and people are starting to wear it every day without going to the gym, including myself and many other university students. A lot of people have done collaborations with people like H&M with Alexander Wang and Adidas with Stella McCarthy. So out of interest, where and why do you buy your sportswear, for fashion or for practical reasons? P: Practical reason as I go jogging and want comfort and support so I go to Sports Direct to buy things. Practical as well, I like going to the gym and like before, I want to be comfortable and have support so I can work out more. I buy from Nike. However, even though I say I buy for practical reasons, I say I go to Nike because at the moment it’s really the only place I can think of where their items are fashionable so I can look good when I just want to wear them to collage. I buy from Nike as well and even though I go to the gym, I buy mine more for fashion as I like to wear my gym stuff around college and town if I’m having one of those days but like to still look good while in a, ‘I can’t be arsed making effort mood’. I also go to Sports Direct but mainly for trainers as I play football. I feel they have a wide variety and there helpful in helping you pick the right pair O: Okay so your buying from these stores but do you get most of it online or offline? Not just sportswear P: The majority said in-store as it’s easier for them to try the clothes on It’s about equal for me. If it’s for clothes, it’s better for me to go try them on to make sure I’m getting the right size but anything else, it makes sense to buy online, it tends to be cheaper or can find a cheaper option. O: Going back to sportswear…apologises for the back and forth…when you buy, are you buying because it looks good but might not last so long or are you going out to find something that will last a while no matter what it looks like? P: Yeah, I want something that is comfortable and that will last longer, if it looks nice that’s an added bonus but when I’m running I’m more concerned about my performance than how I look. Yeah, I’m the same, I’d rather have something that lasts longer so I can save money than something that looks nice but means I’ll have to spend more when it breaks.

O: Going on from that, a lot of my research has shown, todays sportswear fabrics and technology are helping enhance performance and prevent from sweating, is this something that you look for as well or are you unaware of this? P: I had seen somewhere about the new fabrics helping prevent from sweating but I’m not really sure on it or the technology. I think if technology can help performance then that would be great, I feel that some people need that boost when it comes to performing and it would be ideal. As for the fabrics helping sweat issues, this is something I’d like as I hate sweating when I’m in the gym, especially when I’ve got a busy day after. O: Do you think that sportswear is becoming more known and more casual than it might have been several years ago? P: I like the fact that you can get sportswear for sportswear and sportswear for fashion as people want to use it for everyday life and it makes it easier if your someone who also likes going to the gym or workout. So yeah I think it’s definitely developed into that. I agree, I think sportswear is being more incorporated into fashion trends and its making sportswear fashionable and practical, making it more comfortable as well. O: A lot of retail at the moment either classes your age range as either a junior or an adult and you could potentially buy the same outfit as your parents and let’s be honest, know body wants that. So from this do you feel there’s a gap in the market for a store that targets, say just college students, especially within sportswear? P: I’m not sure about sportswear as I don’t tend to buy any but I feel there could be a gap for a store for us as sometimes it is hard to find places like that and I feel that if a new brand was to do this, it would go well as they would really understand us and what we want. Obviously no brand can target everyone but they could try. I think a sportswear brand just for college students would be great. The outfits could be sold around the campuses as well to make it more accessible for us as I feel most college students either play a sport or go to the gym. I think a lot of college students worry about the way they look on a day to day basis let alone when their working out so if the brand could help that and not make it skin tight, I know I’d go there. O: So moving forward with my idea, I’d be looking at holding an event for the launch of the brand so to help with that, how many of you in here attend events, like festivals, shop openings, fashion shows? And what do you expect from them? P: 3 or 4 said they have attended festivals and 2 said they had attended shop openings and a fashion show. However they were quite quiet and mentioned they kind of didn’t have any expectations I’ve been to festivals before and only really gone with the expectations of good music and mud. When I went to Birmingham clothes show, I went with the expectations of meeting celebrities, good music, a fancy venue, posh drinks, lots of clothes on offer and goody bags on seats at the fashion show. It was pretty much what I expected and I had a really good time and would love to go again. O: you mentioned celebrities in there, do you think brands who use celebrities are doing it well and that they help target your age? P: Like you mentioned with H&M and Adidas, there already using celebrities to target their audience and I think it works because using the right celebrity to market the clothes helps get the brand out there. However, I personally feel that the clothes are more important than the celebrities when it comes to buying for me as I’d rather see what they have to offer than a silly video or something where it’s all about the celebrity than the clothes

O: any other comments? No? okay lets move on When H&M and Alexander Wang launched their recent range, they did it in New York on a runway race track to tie in with the theme, do you think this is an effective way to do a fashion show? P: you don’t want the launch to be to remote, especially with young people who rely on public transport, you’d want it somewhere that people will be able to access with ease. O: Going onto media, you’re obviously the next generation that has been brought up with the internet, how many of you in here, own several smart devices like an iphone, ipad, laptop? P: The whole class said they owned at least one O: I’ve been looking at your generation and how to target you through different media channels from the tele to your phone. Each has to be fit for purpose to be able to engage your attention, the sizing has to be right for each software and running one simple campaign just wouldn’t be enough. Like the ‘This girl can’ campaign they had different phrases to try get their audiences attentions on different platforms. Do you guys think that the best way to target you is via social media or do you think there’s another way? P: I definitely think that social media is the best way, as probably all of us in here have more than one network and check it on a regular basis. However, it would need to stand out to get my attention as I check it so often I could easily miss is. I’m the same, I think social media is the right way but it still needs to be able to stand out to me or I’ll just flick past it. O: how about any other ways? P: I think even through social media is good and probably the best way, I watch a fair bit of tele and if the brand could find the right sort of channels to advertise on, they could easily get our attention. Channels like E4, comedy central and MTV are just some that I feel might be good to target so our generation. I think we’re all addicted to the internet, it would be hard to target us any other way. O: Well that’s everything. Thank you so much for all your help. Good luck with your deadlines, I know how it feels to be here, spending those last few hours adding the final touches. If any of you have any questions about college work, university, or my course, you can either ask now or send me over an email and I’d be happy to help.

SURVEY-6 Appendix 6.1

Appendix 6.2

Appendix 6.3

Appendix 6.4

Appendix 6.5

Appendix 6.6

CONSENT FORMS-7

LOGO DEVELOPMENT-8

Appendix 8.1

Appendix 8.2

100

Appendix 8.3

101

WEBSITES-9

102

10- MAGAZINE INSPIRATION

103

LOOK BOOK -11

104

12 - THIS GIRL CAN

The â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;This Girl Canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; campaign was a great marketing move as it really encouraged women to take part. Athleisure wants to adopt this technique and use it to promote to their target audience. Not only to take part in more sport to buy the sportswear Athleisure provides. The tag lines are something that would need work so the younger female will feel more involved than the ones currently in use. 105

PHOTOGRAPHY - 13

106

Appendix 13.1

Appendix 13.2

107

Appendix 13.3

108

14 - RESOURCES

Appendix 14.2

Appendix 14.1

109

POP-UP STORES - 15

110

16 - CONSUMER PROFILE

111

CAMPAIGNS - 17

112

18 - SPORTSWEAR

113

DESIGNS - 19

114

Designs were created by costume design student Jade Katz

115

116

20 - SAKS FIFTH AVENUE IS AN INSPIRING

Saks Fifth Avenue is an inspiring app that has been developed for women to try clothes on without leaving their homes. It’s a simple device and process and doesn’t take too long. Athleisure likes this style and will want to use it on their app and website. The idea is definitely good for this generation as they’re so involved with technology, it gives them something more than they’ve known before. 117

TUTORIAL FORMS - 23

118

119

120

121

A/L 122