Editorial Ìéá áíÜóá ðñéí ôçí Ýíáñîç ôçò íÝáò èåñéíÞò ðåñéüäïõ, ç Astra ðñïåôïéìÜæåôáé ðõñåôùäþò ãéá ìßá áêüìá óáéæüí áíÜðôõîçò. Ç ÅëëÜäá åßíáé åõëïãçìÝíç ÷þñá. ¸îù áðü ðïëéôéêÜ óõìöÝñïíôá êáé óêïðéìüôçôåò, Ýîù áðü ïéêïíïìéêÝò êñßóåéò, üëïé ìáæß ìðïñïýìå íá «äþóïõìå Ýíá ÷Ýñé» êáé íá ãõñßóïõìå ôï ðáé÷íßäé. Óôïí ôïìÝá ôïõ ôïõñéóìïý, ïé ðñïâëÝøåéò åßíáé èåôéêüôáôåò, êáé üóï ìáò áöïñÜ, äéêáéïëïãçìÝíá ðáñáìÝíïõìå ç ðñþôç áåñïðïñéêÞ åôáéñåßá ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò, êáèþò óôï èåñéíü ìáò ðñüãñáììá äñïìïëïãßùí ðñïâëÝðåôáé ç óýíäåóç ôçò ðüëçò ìå 24 ðñïïñéóìïýò ôçò Ñùóßáò êáé Ïõêñáíßáò (óõìâÜëëïíôáò ôá ìÝãéóôá óôçí åíäõíÜìùóç ôçò ôïðéêÞò ïéêïíïìßáò) áëëÜ êáé ìå 13 ðñïïñéóìïýò óôï åóùôåñéêü ôçò ÅëëÜäïò ðñïóöÝñïíôÜò óáò ìïíáäéêÝò, ïéêïíïìéêÝò êáé áóöáëåßò ôáîéäéùôéêÝò åðéëïãÝò. Áò ìçí îå÷íÜìå üôé ðïôÝ äåí Ý÷ïõìå äåýôåñç åõêáéñßá ãéá ôçí ðñþôç åíôýðùóç: öñïíôßæïõìå íá óáò õðïäå÷üìáóôå ìå ìåãÜëá ÷áìüãåëá êáé ôçí êáëýôåñÞ ìáò äéÜèåóç. ÅîÜëëïõ, ïé óêëçñÝò åðï÷Ýò äåí êñáôÜíå ãéá ðÜíôá ïé äõíáôïß Üíèñùðïé üìùò, íáé. ÃéÜííçò ÆëáôÜíçò ðñüåäñïò Ä.Ó
12 betterfly magazine
Editorial Just before the beginning of the new summer period, Astra is making feverish preparations for one more season of development. Greece is a blessed country. Apart from any political interest and expediency, apart from any financial crisis, all together we can make an effort and “change the game”. In the field of tourism, the prospects are very positive and as far as we are concerned we rightfully remain the top airline of Thessaloniki since the summer period operation will provide direct connection of Thessaloniki with 24 destinations in Russia and Ukraine (thus boosting the local economy the best way possible), and with 13 popular domestic destinations. offering unique, money-saving and safe travel options. We should not forget that we never have a second chance for a first impression: we aspire to welcome you with a big smile and the best of moods. Besides, tough times don’t last for ever –tough people do! Yannis Zlatanis President
14 betterfly magazine
Íåçàäîëãî äî íà÷àëà ëåòíåãî ñåçîíà, êîìïàíèÿ «» óñèëåííî ãîòîâèòñÿ ê åù¸ îäíîìó íîâîìó âèòêó ïðîãðåññèâíîãî ðàçâèòèÿ. Ãðåöèÿ ýòî áëàãîñëîâåííàÿ çåìëÿ. Íå âçèðàÿ íà ïîëèòè÷åñêèå èíòåðåñû ö åëè, èãíîðèðóÿ ýêîíîìè÷åñêèå êðèçèñû, âñå âìåñòå, ñîîáùà, ìîæíî «ïîäàòü ðóêó ïîìîùè» è ïîâåðíóòü õîä èãðû âñïÿòü. Ïîëîæåíèå äåë è ïåðñïåêòèâû â ñôåðå òóðèçìà ÷ðåçâû÷àéíî ìíîãîîáåùàþùè. Íà äàííûé ìîìåíò íàøà àâèàêîìïàíèÿ àáñîëþòíî çàñëóæåííî íàõîäèòñÿ íà ïåðâîì ìåñòå â ã. Ñàëîíèêè, ïîñêîëüêó â çèìíåå ðàñïèñàíèå ïîë¸òîâ ïðåäóñìàòðèâàåòñÿ âêëþ÷èòü íå òîëüêî åù¸ 24 íîâûõ ìàðøðóòà, ñîåäèíÿþùèõ Ãðåöèþ ñ Ðîññèåé è Óêðàèíîé (ïðèëàãàÿ âñå óñèëèÿ è óêðåïëÿÿ, òàêèì îáðàçîì, ìåñòíóþ ýêîíîìèêó), íî è 13 ìàðøðóòîâ âíóòðè ñòðàíû, ïðåäîñòàâëÿÿ ïàññàæèðàì äîñòîéíûé, ýêîíîìè÷íûé è áåçîïàñíûé âûáîð äëÿ ïóòåøåñòâèÿ. Äàâàéòå íå áóäåì çàáûâàòü, ÷òîáû ïðîèçâåñòè ïåðâîå âïå÷àòëåíèå âòîðîé âîçìîæíîñòè íå áûâàåò: êîìïàíèÿ ïðèíèìàåò ïàññàæèðîâ â ñâîè îáúÿòèÿ ñ óëûáêîé è â îòëè÷íîì íàñòðîåíèè. Âåäü òÿæ¸ëûå âðåìåíà ïðîõîäÿò, à ñèëüíûå ëþäè îñòàþòñÿ íàâñåãäà. ßííèñ Çëàòàíèñ Ïðåäñåäàòåëü
Ðåñéå÷üìåíá
12. Editorial 20. Better fly & Better living 44. Èåóóáëïíßêç, ÅõñùðáúêÞ Ðñùôåýïõóá Íåïëáßáò 56. Ëåõêüò Ðýñãïò, «Ï ðýñãïò åß÷å ôçí äéêÞ ôïõ éóôïñßá» 70. ÁöéÝñùìá óôçí ïñåéíÞ ×áëêéäéêÞ 86. ÓéÜôéóôá 96. ÊáóôïñéÜ, «Ç ðüëç ôçò ëßìíçò» 116. Ïäïéðïñéêü óôïí íïìü ÎÜíèçò 126. Ôá Ýèéìá ôïõ ÐÜó÷á óôçí ÅëëÜäá 136. Ôï íáõôéêü ìïõóåßï óôç ×ßï 148. Óôï Âáèý, ôçí ðñùôåýïõóá ôçò ÓÜìïõ 164. Öõóéêü ðÜñêï Óçôåßáò 170. ÁöéÝñùìá óôç ÌÜíç 184. ÓõíÝíôåõîç äçìÜñ÷ïõ ÊÝñêõñáò 190. The Betterfly list 216. ÓõíÝíôåõîç óåö ¢ñç Ôóáíáêëßäç 224. Ðñïïñéóìïß ôçò Astra Airlines 226. Ï óôüëïò ôçò Astra Airlines
Contents
12. 20. 44. 56. 70. 86. 96. 116. 126. 136. 148. 164. 170. 184. 190. 216. 224. 226.
Ñîäåðæèìîå
12. Editorial 20. Betterfly & Better living 44. Ñàëîíèêè Ìîëîäåæíàÿ Ñòîëèöà Eâðîïû 2014 56. Áåëàÿ áàøíÿ, Áàøíÿ áûëà ñâîÿ èñòîðèÿ 70. Ãîðíàÿ Õàëêèäèêè 86. Ñèàòèñòà 96. Êàñòîðüÿ ïðèîçåðíûé ãîðîä 116. Ïóòåøåñòâèå â îêðóã Êñàíòè 126. Ïàñõàëüíûå òðàäèöèè â Ãðåöèè. 136. Ìóçåé ìîðåïëàâàíèÿ îñòðîâà Õèîñ 148. Ïðîãóëêà ïî ãîðîäó Âàòè ñòîëèöå îñòðîâà Ñàìîñ. 164. Ïðèðîäíûé ïàðê Ñèòèè 170. Íà ïîëóîñòðîâå Ìàíè 184. Èíòåðâüþ ìýðà Êîðôó 190. The Betterfly list 216. èíòåðâüþ øåô-ïîâàðà Àðèñ Öàíàêëèäèñ 224. Êàðòà òî÷åê íàçíà÷åíèÿ 226. ôëîò Astra airlines
Editorial Betterfly & Better living Thessaloniki , European Youth Capital 2014 White tower, The tower had its own history Mountainous Chalkidiki Siatista Kastoria, the city of the lake A journey through Xanthi Prefecture Easter traditions in Greece The Chios maritime museum In Vathi, the capital of Samos Sitia Nature Park In Mani Interview with the mayor of Corfu The Betterfly list Interview with sef Aris Tsanaklidis Destination map Fleet of Astra Airlines
Éäéïêôçóßá ôçò Astra Airlines 12ï ÷éëéüìåôñï Èåóóáëïíßêçò- Ìïõäáíéþí, ðåñéï÷Þ áåñïäñïìßïõ ÈÝñìç, Èåóóáëïíßêç Ô: 2310-489390, Fax: 2310-489393 ÐáñáãùãÞ- Ýêäïóç åíôýðïõ: «¼øåéò ðïëéôéóìïý» Êïìíçíþí 17, Èåóóáëïíßêç, Ô: 2310-257218, Fax: 2310-257219 ÄéåõèõíôÞò: ÈáíÜóçò Êáôóßêáò (atha.kats@yahoo.gr) ÄéåõèõíôÞò Ðåñéïäéêþí Åêäüóåùí: ÅëéóÜâåô ÊåëÝóç (elisavet54@gmail.com) Áñ÷éóõíôÜêôçò: ÈÜíïò ÄåëëÞò (politismos33@gmail.com) Creative Art Director: Ãåùñãßá Ðåôñßäïõ ÅðéìÝëåéá Õëçò: ÓÜêçò ÆÞóçò Óýìâïõëïò ÄéáöÞìéóçò: Áóðáóßá ÄáúíÜ, ÂéâÞ Êáôóáïýíç Luciano Corzo, Áðïóôïëßäçò ÄçìÞôñçò Øáñüðïõëïò Âáóßëçò (periodikoastra@gmail.com) ÏéêïíïìéêÞ äéá÷åßñéóç:
ØÜññçò Ãéþñãïò ËïãéóôÞñéï: Íßêïò Éáôñïý ÖùôïãñÜöïé: ¸ëåíá ×ùñéíïý, ËÜìðñïò Áðïóôüëïõ ÌåôáöñÜóåéò: Ìåôáöñáóôéêü ãñáöåßï «ÁëöÜâçôïò»
y l f r e t t be
Owned by Astra Airlines 12th km on the Thessaloniki-Moudania road, airport district Thermi, Thessaloniki Tel.: 2310-489390, Fax: 2310-489393 Production-publication: «Opsis Politismou» 17 Komninon St., Thessaloniki Tel.: 2310-257218, Fax: 2310-257219
Director: Thanasis Katsikas (atha.kats@yahoo.gr) Periodical Publications Director: Elisavet Kelesi (elisavet54@gmail.com) Editor-in-chief: Thanos Dellis (politismos33@gmail.com) Creative Art Director: Georgia Petridou Content Management: Sakis Zisis Advertising Consultant: Aspasia Daina, Vivi Katsaouni Luciano Corzo, Apostolidis Dimitris Psaropoulos Dimitris (periodikoastra@gmail.com) Financial Management: Giorgos Psarris Account office: Nikos Iatrou Photographers:
Elena Chorinou, Lambros Apostolou Translations:
Alphavitos Translation Agency
Åõ÷áñéóôïýìå èåñìÜ ãéá ôçí äéÜèåóç öùôïãñáöéþí ôçò ÓÜìïõ ôïí Íßêï ×áôæçéáêþâïõ (www.chatziiakovou.gr), ôçò ÊÝñêõñáò ôïí ÂëÜóç Ôóþíï (v-tsonos@otenet.gr), ôçò ÊáóôïñéÜò ôïí Óéíüðïõëï ÌÜíï, ôçí Áíáóôáóßá Ìðïßêïõ êáé ôï Studio ÔñáóéÜò êáèþò êáé ôçí ÐåñéöåñåéáêÞ åíüôçôá ×áëêéäéêÞò ãéá ôéò öùôïãñáößåò ôïõ íïìïý ×áëêéäéêÞò
We would like to really thank Nikos Chatziiakovou for the pictures of Samos, (www.chatziiakovou.gr), Vlasis Tsonos for the pictures of Corfu (v-tsonos@otenet.gr), Sinopoulos Manos for the pictures of Kastoria and lastly Anastasia Mpoikou, Trasias Studio and the regional unity of Chalkidiki for the pictures of Chalkidiki.
Ôá Üñèñá êáé ïé ãíþìåò ðïõ åêöñÜæïíôáé óôá êåßìåíá ôïõ ðåñéïäéêïý äåí áíôéðñïóùðåýïõí áíáãêáóôéêÜ ôéò áðüøåéò ôçò Astra Airlines. ÅðéôñÝðåôáé ç áíáäçìïóßåõóç êáé ç áðïóðáóìáôéêÞ ìåôáöïñÜ êåéìÝíùí ìå ôçí ãñáðôÞ óõíáßíåóç ôçò Astra airlines.
The articles and opinions expressed in the magazine's texts do not necessarily represent the views of Astra Airlines. The reproduction and fragmentary transposition of the texts is only permitted with the written consent of Astra airlines.
Ôï ðåñéïäéêü äéáôßèåôáé äùñåÜí
Free press
Ñîáñòâåííîñòü àâèàêîìïàíèè Astra Airlines 12 êì òðàññû Ñàëîíèêè- Ìóäàíüÿ, ðàéîí àýðîïîðòà Òåðìè, Ñàëîíèêè Òåë. 2310-489390, Ôàêñ: 2310-489393 Ïðîèçâîäñòâî è èçäàíèå æóðíàëà: «Ñòîðîíû êóëüòóðû» óë. Êîìíèíîí 17, Ñàëîíèêè Òåë. 2310-257218, Òåë. 2310-257219
Äèðåêòîð: Àôàíàñèîñ Êàöèêàñ (atha.kats@yahoo.gr) Äèðåêòîð ïåðèîäè÷åñêèõ èçäàíèé: Ýëèñàâåò Êåëåñè (elisavet54@gmail.com) Ãëàâíûé ðåäàêòîð: Òàíîñ Äåëëèñ (politismos33@gmail.com) Êðåàòèâíûé äèðåêòîð: Ãåîðãèÿ Ïåòðèäó Êóðàòîð æóðíàëà: Ñàêèñ Çèñèñ Ðåêëàìíûé êîíñóëüòàíò: Àñïàñèÿ Äàèíà, Âèâè Êàöàóíè
Ëó÷àíî Êîðñî, Àïîñòîëèäèñ Äèìèòðèñ Ïñàðîï÷ëîñ Âàñèëèñ (periodikoastra@gmail.com) Óïðàâëåíèå ôèíàíñàìè: Ïñàððèñ Ãåîðãèîñ Áóõãàëòåðèÿ: Íèêîñ Èàòðó Ôîòîãðàôû: Ýëåíà Õîðèíó, Ëàìïðîñ Àïîñòîëó Ïåðåâîäû: Áþðî ïåðåâîäîâ «Àëôàâèòîñ», Âûðàæàåì áëàãîäàðíîñòü çà ïðåäîñòàâëåíèå ôîòîìàòåðèàëîâ îñòðîâà Ñàìîñ ãîñïîäèíà Íèêîñà Õàäçèèàêîâó, ýëåêòðîííûé àäðåñ: www.chatziiakovou.gr, îñòðîâà Êåðêèðà - ãîñïîäèíà Âëàñèñà Öîíî, ýëåêòðîííûé àäðåñ: v-tsonos@otenet.gr, ãîðîäà Êàñòîðüè Ìàíîëèñà Ñèíîïóëîñà, Àíàñòàñèþ Áîéêó è Studio Òðàñüÿñ, à òàêæå Îáëàñòíîå Îáúåäèíåíèå ïîëóîñòðîâà Õàëêèäèêè çà ïðåäîñòàâëåíèå ôîòîãðàôèé îáëàñòè ïîëóîñòðîâà Õàëêèäèêè Ìíåíèÿ, êîòîðûå âûñêàçûâàþòñÿ â ñòàòüÿõ è òåêñòàõ æóðíàëà ìîãóò íå ñîâïàäàòü ñ ìíåíèåì Astra Airlines. Ïîëíîå èëè ÷àñòè÷íîå âîñïðîèçâåäåíèå èëè êîïèðîâàíèå òåêñòîâ äîïóñêàåòñÿ òîëüêî ñ ïèñüìåííîãî ñîãëàñèÿ àâèàêîìïàíèè Astra Airlines. Æóðíaë ðañïðîñòðaíÿåòñÿ áåñïëaòíî
Betterfly and better living
Ç ASTRA airlines
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Èåóóáëïíßêç - “ÅõñùðáúêÞ Ðñùôåýïõóá Íåïëáßáò 2014” Ôçí 1ç Éáíïõáñßïõ 2014 ç Èåóóáëïíßêç Ýëáâå ôïí ôßôëï ôçò “ÅõñùðáúêÞò Ðñùôåýïõóáò Íåïëáßáò”, óôá ðëáßóéá ôçò ïðïßáò èá ðñáãìáôïðïéçèïõí ðëçèþñá åêäçëþóåùí óå óõíåñãáóßá ìå äéåèíåßò öïñåßò ðïõ áó÷ïëïýíôáé ìå èÝìáôá íåïëáßáò óôçí Åõñþðç êáé óôïí êüóìï. Èá ðñáãìáôïðïéçèïýí äéáãùíéóìïß âßíôåï, öùôïãñáößáò, æùãñáöéêÞò êáé ãáóôñïíïìßáò, èá ðáñïõóéáóôïýí åêèÝóåéò êáé èá äéïñãáíùèïýí êïñõöáßá áèëçôéêÜ ãåãïíüôá êáé öåóôéâÜë, áëëÜ êáé äñþìåíá ìå åðßêåíôñï ôïõò öïéôçôÝò, üðùò ôï “Model UN” êáé ôï “Ðáãêüóìéï ÓõíÝäñéï Öïéôçôþí Ðïëéôéêþí Åðéóôçìþí”. ÊáôÜ ôç äéÜñêåéá ôïõ Ýôïõò, ç ðüëç áíáìÝíåôáé íá öéëïîåíÞóåé ðÜíù áðü 130 äéåèíåßò êáé ôïðéêÝò åêäçëþóåéò ãéá íÝïõò. www.thessaloniki2014.gr
Thessaloniki “European Youth Capital 2014” On January 1st, 2014 Thessaloniki was awarded the title of the European Youth Capital, in the context of which a plethora of international events will take place in cooperation with international actors dealing with youth issues in Europe and in the world at large. There will be video, photography, painting and gastronomy contests, exhibitions will be held and top sports events and festivals will be organized, as well as other events focusing on students, such as Model UN and the World Congress of Political Science Students. Throughout the year, the city is expected to host over 130 international and local events for the youth. www.thessaloniki2014.gr
ã. Ñàëîíèêè - “Åâðîïåéñêàÿ ñòîëèöà ìîëîä¸æè 2014ã” Ñ 1 ÿíâàðÿ 2014 ãîäà ã. Ñàëîíèêè ïîëó÷èë ñòàòóñ «Åâðîïåéñêàÿ ñòîëèöà ìîëîä¸æè», â ðàìêàõ êîòîðîãî áóäåò ïðîõîäèòü ìíîæåñòâî ìåæäóíàðîäíûõ ìåðîïðèÿòèé â ñîòðóäíè÷åñòâå ñ ìåæäóíàðîäíûìè îðãàíèçàöèÿìè, çàíèìàþùèìèñÿ âîïðîñàìè ìîëîäåæè â Åâðîïå è âî âñ¸ì ìèðå. Áóäóò ïðîâåäåíû êîíêóðñû âèäåî ôèëüìîâ, ôîòîãðàôèè, æèâîïèñè è ãàñòðîíîìèè, áóäóò îðãàíèçîâàíû âûñòàâêè è êðóïíûå ñïîðòèâíûå ñîðåâíîâàíèÿ è ôåñòèâàëè, à òàêæå ìåðîïðèÿòèÿ, ïîñâÿùåííûå ñòóäåí÷åñòâó, òàêèå êàê: Model UN è Âñåìèðíûé Êîíãðåññ ñòóäåíòîâ-ïîëèòîëîãîâ.  òå÷åíèå âñåãî ãîäà îæèäàåòñÿ ïðîâåäåíèå áîëåå 130 ìåæäóíàðîäíûõ è ìåñòíûõ ìåðîïðèÿòèé äëÿ ìîëîä¸æè. www.thessaloniki2014.gr
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ÖåóôéâÜë ÍôïêéìáíôÝñ Èåóóáëïíßêçò
Áíáìåíüìåíï åôÞóéï ãåãïíüò ôçò ðüëçò åßíáé êáé ôï ÖåóôéâÜë ÍôïêéìáíôÝñ Èåóóáëïíßêçò, ðïõ öÝôïò êëåßíåé ôïí 16ï ÷ñüíï äéïñãÜíùóÞò ôïõ êáé èá ðñáãìáôïðïéçèåß áðü ôéò 14 Ýùò êáé ôéò 23 Ìáñôßïõ. ÍÝï óôïé÷åßï áðü ôçí öåôéíÞ ÷ñïíéÜ èá áðïôåëÝóåé ôï “Âñáâåßï Êïéíïý Ðßôåñ Ïõéíôüíéê”, êáèþò ôï ÖåóôéâÜë áðïöÜóéóå, ìå ôçí êáèéÝñùóÞ ôïõ áõôÞ, íá ôéìÞóåé ôçí ìíÞìç ôïõ äéáêåêñéìÝíïõ äçìéïõñãïý, ãéá ôçí óðïõäáßá óõíåéóöïñÜ ôïõ óôçí ôÝ÷íç ôïõ íôïêéìáíôÝñ. www.filmfestival.gr
16th Thessaloniki Documentary Festival A greatly expected annual event for Thessaloniki is its Documentary Festival which celebrates its 16th anniversary this year, it will be held March 14 to 23. The new element this year will be the Peter Wintonick Audience Award since the Festival decided to make it an institution in order to honor the memory of this distinguished documentary maker for his great contribution to the documentary art. www.filmfestival.gr
16-é Ìåæäóíàðîäíûé Ôåñòèâàëü Äîêóìåíòàëüíîãî Êèíî ãîðîäà Ñàëîíèêè ßâëÿþùèéñÿ âåñüìà çíà÷èòåëüíûì åæåãîäíûì êóëüòóðíûì ñîáûòèåì â æèçíè ãîðîäà, ôåñòèâàëü äîêóìåíòàëüíîãî êèíî ãîðîäà Ñàëîíèêè, êîòîðûé â ýòîì ãîäó ïðàçäíóåò ñâîé 16-é þáèëåé, áóäåò ïðîõîäèòü ñ 14 ïî 23 ìàðòà. Íîâûé ýëåìåíò ýòîãî ãîäà - ïðèç çðèòåëüñêèõ ñèìïàòèé èìåíè Ïèòåðà Âèíòîíèêà. Ýòîò ïðèç ó÷ðåæäåí îðãêîìèòåòîì ôåñòèâàëÿ, ÷òîáû ïî÷òèòü ïàìÿòü âûäàþùåãîñÿ àâòîðà, âíåñøåãî îãðîìíûé âêëàä â èñêóññòâî äîêóìåíòàëüíîãî êèíî. www.filmfestival.gr
Photo biennale
2014
Ç PhotoÂiennale / 22ç ÄéåèíÞò ÖùôïãñáöéêÞ ÓõíÜíôçóç, ðïõ äéïñãáíþíåôáé öÝôïò áðü ôï Ìïõóåßï Öùôïãñáößáò Èåóóáëïíßêçò èá Ý÷åé áõôÞ ôç öïñÜ êåíôñéêü èÝìá ôïí «Ëüãï», ðïõ áðïôåëåß ôï ôñßôï ìÝñïò ôçò èåìáôéêÞò ôñéëïãßáò ç ïðïßá îåêßíçóå ôï 2008 ìå èÝìá ôïí «×ñüíï» êáé óõíå÷ßóôçêå ôï 2010 ìå èÝìá ôïí «Ôüðï». ÌÝñïò ôïõ ðñïãñÜììáôïò èá áðïôåëÝóïõí ïé åêèÝóåéò «Arthur Tress. Ç öùôïãñáößá ùò ìáãéêÞ åéêüíá 1956-2006» êáé «ÁóôéêÜ Ôïðßá ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò, 2013», ïé ïðïßåò Þäç öéëïîåíïýíôáé óôï Ìïõóåßï Öùôïãñáößáò êáé ôï Ãáëëéêü Éíóôéôïýôï Èåóóáëïíßêçò áíôßóôïé÷á. Óôç äéÜñêåéá ôçò PhotoBiennale Ý÷ïõí ðñïãñáììáôéóôåß ôïõëÜ÷éóôïí 15 åêèÝóåéò óå 10 ÷þñïõò óå äéÜöïñá óçìåßá ôçò ðüëçò. ÓõíïëéêÜ, áíáìÝíåôáé íá ðáñïõóéÜóïõí ôç äïõëåéÜ êáé ôéò äçìéïõñãßåò ôïõò ðåñéóóüôåñïé áðü 60 öùôïãñÜöïé áðü üëá ôá ìÝñç ôïõ êüóìïõ. Áðü áñ÷Ýò ôïõ ÷ñüíïõ ùò ôïí ÌÜéï ôïõ 2014. www. photobiennale-greece.gr
PhotoÂiennale/22nd International - Photography Meeting organized, this year, by the Photography Museum of Thessaloniki, will focus on the "Discourse" which is the third part of the thematic trilogy that began in 2008 with "Time" and that continued in 2010 with "Place". The Exhibitions "Arthur Tress. Photographs as a magic picture 1956-2006" and "Urban Landscapes of Thessaloniki 2013" already hosted in the Photography Museum and the Thessaloniki French Language Institute, respectively. During the Photo Biennale at least 10 different exhibitions will be held in 10 different sites of the city. In total, more than 60 photographers worldwide will present their work and their creations. From the beginning of the year until May 2014. www.photobiennale-greece.gr Photo Biennale - ýòî XÕ-ÿ Ìåæäóíàðîäíàÿ âûñòàâêà ôîòîãðàôèè, îðãàíèçîâàííàÿ â ýòîì ãîäó Ìóçååì Ôîòîãðàôèè ã. Ñàëîíèêè. Îíà áóäåò íà ýòîò ðàç ïðîõîäèòü ñ öåíòðàëüíîé òåìîé «Ñëîâî», ÷òî ÿâëÿåòñÿ òðåòüåé ÷àñòüþ òåìàòè÷åñêîé òðèëîãèè, êîòîðàÿ íà÷àëàñü â 2008 ãîäó ñ òåìîé «Âðåìÿ» è áûëà ïðîäîëæåíà â 2010 ãîäó ñ òåìîé «Ìåñòî». ×àñòüþ ïðîãðàììû ñòàíóò âûñòàâêè «Arthur Tress. Ôîòîãðàôèÿ êàê âîëøåáíîå èçîáðàæåíèå 1956-2006» è «Ãîðîäñêèå ïåéçàæè Ñàëîíèê, 2013», êîòîðûå óæå ïðîõîäÿò â ìóçåå Ôîòîãðàôèè è â âûñòàâî÷íîì çàëå Èíñòèòóòà Ôðàíöóçñêîãî ÿçûêà ã. Ñàëîíèêè ñîîòâåòñòâåííî. Âî âðåìÿ Photo Biennale çàïëàíèðîâàíî ïðîâåäåíèå íå ìåíåå 15 âûñòàâîê â 10 ïîìåùåíèÿõ â ðàçíûõ òî÷êàõ ãîðîäà. Âñåãî, êàê îæèäàåòñÿ, ñâîè ðàáîòû è òâîðåíèÿ ïðåäñòàâÿò áîëåå ÷åì 60 ôîòîõóäîæíèêîâ ñî âñåãî ìèðà. Ïðîâåäåíèå âûñòàâêè çàïëàíèðîâàíî ñ íà÷àëà ãîäà ïî ìàé 2014ã. www. photobiennale-greece.gr
Betterfly and better living
Ç ÌáñéíÝëëá óõíáíôÜ ôç ÂÝìðï
Marinella meets Vembo
Ôï «Ç ÌáñéíÝëëá óõíáíôÜ ôç ÂÝìðï» åßíáé Ýíá öéëüäïîï åëëçíéêü ìéïýæéêáë ðÜíù óôçí ðïëõôÜñá÷ç æùÞ êáé ôá ôñáãïýäéá ôçò Óïößáò ÂÝìðï. ¸íáò æùíôáíüò èñýëïò, ç ÌáñéíÝëëá, óõíáíôÜ åðß óêçíÞò ìéá Üëëç ãõíáßêá èñýëï, ðïõ õðÞñîå ðñüôõðï êáé ÝìðíåõóÞ ôçò, óå ïëüêëçñç ôçí êáëëéôå÷íéêÞ ôçò ðïñåßá. Ç ðáñÜóôáóç æùíôáíåýåé ìéá ïëüêëçñç åðï÷Þ, ðïõ óçìÜäåøå ç ðáñïõóßá ôçò óðïõäáßáò ôñáãïõäßóôñéáò êáé èåáôñßíáò, Óïößáò ÂÝìðï. Ç íåüôåñç éóôïñßá ôçò ÅëëÜäáò ðåñíÜ ìÝóá áðü ôç ìõèéóôïñçìáôéêÞ æùÞ ôçò ÂÝìðï êáé ç ÌáñéíÝëëá áãêáëéÜæåé ìÝóá áðü ôï óÞìåñá ôï ÷èåò. Áðü ôéò 5 Ìáñôßïõ óôï ÌÝãáñï ÌïõóéêÞò Èåóóáëïíßêçò. www.tch.gr
«Marinella meets Vembo» is an ambitious Greek musical about the turbulent life and songs of Sofia Vembo. A live legend, Marinella, will meet on stage another legend who was a model and a source of inspiration throughout her artistic career. The performance brings an entire era into life, an era marked by the presence of the great singer and drama performer Sofia Vembo. The contemporary history of Greece goes through the novel life of Vembo and Marinella embraces the past through the present. From March 5, at Thessaloniki Concert Hall. www.tch.gr
Ìàðèíåëëà âñòðå÷àåò Âåìáî «Ìàðèíåëëà âñòðå÷àåò Âåìáî» - ýòî æèçíåóòâåðæäàþùèé ãðå÷åñêèé ìþçèêë î áóðíîé æèçíè è ïåñíÿõ ïåâèöû Ñîôèè Âåìáî. Æèâàÿ ëåãåíäà, ïåâèöà Ìàðèíåëëà, âñòðå÷àåòñÿ íà ñöåíå ñ äðóãîé æåíùèíîé-ëåãåíäîé, êîòîðàÿ áûëà å¸ êóìèðîì è èñòî÷íèêîì âäîõíîâåíèÿ íà ïðîòÿæåíèè âñåãî å¸ òâîð÷åñêîãî ïóòè. Ïðåäñòàâëåíèå âîçðîæäàåò öåëóþ ýïîõó, êîòîðàÿ áûëà îòìå÷åíà ÿâëåíèåì âåëèêîé ïåâèöû è àêòðèñû Ñîôèè Âåìáî. Ñîâðåìåííàÿ èñòîðèÿ Ãðåöèè ïðîõîäèò ÷åðåç ðîìàíòè÷åñêóþ æèçíü Âåìáî, à Ìàðèíåëëà èç ñåãîäíÿøíåãî äíÿ îáíèìàåò â÷åðàøíèé. www.tch.gr
Êñáò...Test óôï “êôÞìá Ãåñïâáóéëåßïõ” Ãéá ôñßôç ÷ñïíéÜ óôï äñáóôÞñéï ÊôÞìá Ãåñïâáóéëåßïõ óõíå÷ßæïíôáé ïé ãåõóôéêÝò óõíáíôÞóåéò ìå åêðáéäåõôéêü ÷áñáêôÞñá. Ïé ïéíïëüãïé ôïõ ÊôÞìáôïò óáò ðåñéìÝíïõí êáé öÝôïò, ìßá ÊõñéáêÞ ôï ìÞíá, ãéá Ýíá ôáîßäé óôéò áñ÷Ýò ôçò ãåõóéãíùóßáò êáé ôïí åëëçíéêü áìðåëþíá. Ôçí ÊõñéáêÞ 16 Ìáñôßïõ êáé áíôßóôïé÷á ôçí ÊõñéáêÞ 27 Áðñéëßïõ. ÌÝñïò óõíÜíôçóçò ôï ÊôÞìá Ãåñïâáóéëåßïõ óôçí ÅðáíùìÞ ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò, www.gerovassiliou.gr
“La Boheme” Ôï ÌÝãáñï ÌïõóéêÞò Èåóóáëïíßêçò ðáñïõóéÜæåé óôéò 5 Áðñéëßïõ óå æùíôáíÞ ìåôÜäïóç Ýíá ìåãáëýôåñá Ýñãá ôçò ðáãêüóìéáò üðåñáò áðü ôç Metropolitan Opera ôçò ÍÝáò Õüñêçò, La Boheme. Ï Éôáëüò ôåíüñïò Vittorio Grigolo åñìçíåýåé ôïí ðáèéáóìÝíï óõããñáöÝá Ñïíôüëöï êáé ç ÑïõìÜíá óïðñÜíï Anita Hartig êÜíåé ôï íôåìðïýôï ôçò óôïí ñüëï ôçò öõìáôéêÞò áãáðçìÝíçò ôïõ, ôçò Ìéìß. Ç Susanna Phillips åñìçíåýåé ôçí êïêêÝôá ÌïõæÝôá êáé ï Massimo Cavalletti åßíáé ï æùãñÜöïò ìáñôóÝëï ó' áõôÞ ôçí ðáñÜóôáóç ðïõ äéåõèýíåé ï áíåñ÷üìåíïò ìáÝóôñïò Stefano Ranzani. www.tch.gr On April 5, Thessaloniki Concert Hall presents live from New York Metropolitan Opera all major world opera productions. Italian Tenor Vittorio Grigolo stars as the passionate writer Rodolfo and the Romanian soprano Anita Hartig makes her debut as his consumptive lover, Mimi. Susanna Phillips sings the flirtatious Musetta and Massimo Cavalletti is the painter Marcello in this performance, led by rising conductor Stefano Ranzani. www.tch.gr
Crash... Test in “Gerovasileiou Estate” For the third year, the active Gerovasileiou Estate continues the wine tasting educational meetings. The enologists of the Estate are waiting for you, this year too, one Sunday per month, to be acquainted with the principles of wine tasting and the Greek vineyards. Sunday March16th and Sunday April 27th. Meeting place: Gerovasileiou Estate in Epanomi, Thessaloniki www.gerovassiliou.gr
Êðàø-òåñò “óñàäüáû Ãåðîâàññèëèó” Óæå òðåòèé ãîä íà äåéñòâóþùåé óñàäüáå Ãåðîâàññèëèó ïðîäîëæàþòñÿ êóëèíàðíûå îáðàçîâàòåëüíûå âñòðå÷è. Ýíîëîãè óñàäüáû ïðèãëàøàþò âàñ è â ýòîì ãîäó, îäíî âîñêðåñåíüå â ìåñÿö, ñîâåðøèòü ïîåçäêó ê íà÷àëàì äåãóñòàöèè âèí è ãðå÷åñêèõ âèíîãðàäíèêîâ. Âîñêðåñåíüå, 16 ìàðòà è âîñêðåñåíüå 27 àïðåëÿ ñîîòâåòñòâåííî. Ìåñòî âñòðå÷è óñàäüáà Ãåðîâàññèëèó â Åïàíîìè â Ñàëîíèêàõ. www.gerovassiliou.gr
22 betterfly magazine
La Boheme (Áîãåìà)
Êîíöåðòíûé Äâîðåö Ñàëîíèê 5 àïðåëÿ â ïðÿìîì ýôèðå ïðåäñòàâëÿåò âåëè÷àéøèå ïðîèçâåäåíèÿ ìèðîâîé îïåðû èç Metropolitan Opera Íüþ-Éîðêà. Èòàëüÿíñêèé òåíîð Vittorio Grigolo èñïîëíÿåò ðîëü ñòðàñòíîãî ïèñàòåëÿ Ðîäîëüôî, à ñîïðàíî èç Ðóìûíèè Anita Hartig èñïîëíÿåò ñâîþ äåáþòíóþ ðîëü åãî âîçëþáëåííîé, ñòðàäàþùåé òóáåðêóë¸çîì Ìèìè, Susanna Phillips èñïîëíÿåò ðîëü êîêåòêè Ìþçåòòû, Massimo Cavalletti â ðîëè õóäîæíèêà Ìàð÷åëëî. Ïðåäñòàâëåíèåì ðóêîâîäèò äèðèæåð Stefano Ranzani. www.tch.gr
Betterfly and better living “Our Town”
“Ç ìéêñÞ ìáò ðüëç”
The National Theatre of Northern Greece presents Thornton Wilder's «our town», directed by Giannis Vouros. Launched by the Theatre of the Society for Macedonian Studies, from February 28, 2014. Through the relationship of two children, Emily and George, Wilder captures everyday life in a small American community. Mornings and nights, romances and marriages, neighborhoods and groups of friends and walks in the moonlight are some of the small or large moments of the heroes of this town, which could be any town anywhere in the world. www.ntng.gr
“Íàø ãîðîäîê” Ôï Êñáôéêü ÈÝáôñï Âïñåßïõ ÅëëÜäïò ðáñïõóéÜæåé ôï Ýñãï ôïõ Èüñíôïí ÏõÜéëíôåñ «Ç ìéêñÞ ìáò ðüëç», óå óêçíïèåóßá ÃéÜííç Âïýñïõ Aðü ôéò 28 Öåâñïõáñßïõ 2014 óôï èÝáôñï ôçò Åôáéñåßáò Ìáêåäïíéêþí Óðïõäþí. ÌÝóá áðü ôç ó÷Ýóç äýï ðáéäéþí, ôçò ¸ìéëé êáé ôïõ Ôæùñôæ, ï ÏõÜéëíôåñ êáôáãñÜöåé ôçí êáèçìåñéíÞ æùÞ óå ìéá ìéêñÞ áìåñéêáíéêÞ êïéíüôçôá. Îçìåñþìáôá êáé íý÷ôåò, Ýñùôåò êáé ãÜìïé, ãåéôïíéÝò êáé ðáñÝåò êáé âüëôåò óôï öåããáñüöùôï áðïôåëïýí êÜðïéåò áðü ôéò ìéêñÝò Þ ìåãÜëåò óôéãìÝò ôùí çñþùí áõôÞò ôçò ðüëçò, ðïõ èá ìðïñïýóå íá åßíáé ïðïéáäÞðïôå ðüëç óå ïðïéïäÞðïôå ìÝñïò ôïõ êüóìïõ. www.ntng.gr
Ôï Êñáôéêü ÈÝáôñï Âïñåßïõ ÅëëÜäïò áðü ôçí ÐáñáóêåõÞ 14 Öåâñïõáñßïõ ðáñïõóéÜæåé ôï Ýñãï ôïõ ôïõ Ôåíåóß Ïõßëéáìò «Ãëõêü ðïõëß ôçò íéüôçò», óå óêçíïèåóßá Âáóßëç ÍéêïëáÀäç, óôï Âáóéëéêü ÈÝáôñï. ¸íá áðü ôá ðéï ãíùóôÜ êáé áãáðçìÝíá Ýñãá ôïõ Ôåíåóß Ïõßëéáìò ðáñïõóéÜæåôáé óôçí åêäï÷Þ ðïõ åß÷å äçìïóéåýóåé ï ßäéïò ï óõããñáöÝáò ôï 1959, ùò äéáìáñôõñßá ãéá ôç ëïãïêñéóßá ðïõ ôïõ åðÝâáëëå ôï Ìðñüíôãïõåú. Áò óçìåéùèåß üôé ôï Ýñãï ðáßæåôáé ãéá ðñþôç öïñÜ áðü ôï ÊÈÂÅ êáé ðñùôáãùíéóôïýí ç Êïñáëßá ÊáñÜíôç êáé ï ÌÝìïò ÌðåãíÞò. www.ntng.gr
“Sweet Birth of Youth” From Friday, 14 February the National Theatre of Northern Greece presents Tennessee Williams play "Sweet Birth of Youth", directed by Vasilis Nikolaidis, at Royal Theatre. One of the most known and popular works of Tennessee Williams is presented in a version that the writer himself had published in 1959, as a protest for the censorship imposed by Broadway. It is worth mentioning that it's the first time that this play is put on by the National Theatre of Northern Greece, starring Koralia Karanti and Memos Mpegnis. www.ntng.gr
24 betterfly magazine
Ãîñóäàðñòâåííûé Òåàòð Ñåâåðíîé Ãðåöèè ïðåäñòàâëÿåò ïüåñó Òîðíòîíà Óàéëäåðà «Íàø ãîðîäîê», â ïîñòàíîâêå ßíèñà Âóðîñà ñ 28 ôåâðàëÿ 2014 ãîäà â òåàòðå Îáùåñòâà Ìàêåäîíñêèõ Èññëåäîâàíèé. ×åðåç ëþáîâíûå îòíîøåíèÿ äâóõ ïîäðîñòêîâ, Ýìèëè è Äæîðäæà,Óàéëäåð îáðèñîâûâàåò ïîâñåäíåâíóþ æèçíü íåáîëüøîãî ïðîâèíöèàëüíîãî àìåðèêàíñêîãî ãîðîäêà. Íî÷è è ðàññâåòû, ðîìàíñû è áðàêè, êâàðòàëû, êîìïàíèè äðóçåé è ïðîãóëêè ïîä ëóíîé îòäåëüíûå ìàëåíüêèå èëè áîëüøèå ìîìåíòû èç æèçíè ãåðîåâ ýòîãî ãîðîäêà, êàê è ëþáîãî äðóãîãî ãîðîäêà â ëþáîé òî÷êå ìèðà. www.ntng.gr
“Ãëõêü ðïõëß ôçò íéüôçò”
“Ñëàäêîãîëîñàÿ ïòèöà þíîñòè” Ãîñóäàðñòâåííûé òåàòð Ñåâåðíîé Ãðåöèè ñ ïÿòíèöû 14 ôåâðàëÿ ïðåäñòàâëÿåò ñïåêòàêëü ïî îäíîèìåííîé ïüåñå Òåííåññè Óèëüÿìñà «Ñëàäêîãîëîñàÿ ïòèöà þíîñòè», â ïîñòàíîâêå ðåæèññåðà Âàñèëèñà Íèêîëàèäèñà, â Êîðîëåâñêîì òåàòðå. Îäíî èç ñàìûõ èçâåñòíûõ è ëþáèìûõ ïðîèçâåäåíèé Òåííåññè Óèëüÿìñà ïðåäñòàâëÿåòñÿ â âåðñèè, êîòîðóþ îïóáëèêîâàë ñàì àâòîð â 1959 ãîäó, â çíàê ïðîòåñòà ïðîòèâ öåíçóðû, ââåäåííîé Áðîäâååì. Ñëåäóåò îòìåòèòü, ÷òî ýòà ïüåñà çíàìåíèòîãî àâòîðà âïåðâûå ïðåäñòàåò ïåðåä ïóáëèêîé â èñïîëíåíèè àêò¸ðîâ Ãîñóäàðñòâåííîãî Òåàòðà Ñåâåðíîé Ãðåöèè ñ Êîðàëèåé Êàðàíòè è Ìåìîñîì Áåãíèñîì â ãëàâíûõ ðîëÿõ. www.ntng.gr
Betterfly and better living
Ðáãêüóìéï ÓõíÝäñéï ôçò IAPSS 2014
Ôï 1ï Ðáãêüóìéï ÓõíÝäñéï ôçò Äéåèíïýò ¸íùóçò ôùí Öïéôçôþí Ðïëéôéêþí Åðéóôçìþí - IAPSS (International Association for Political Science Students) èá ðñáãìáôïðïéçèåß öÝôïò óôçí Èåóóáëïíßêç áðü ôéò 31 Ìáñôßïõ ùò ôéò 5 Áðñéëßïõ. Õëïðïéåßôáé áðü ôçí ÅëëçíéêÞ ÏñãÜíùóç ÐïëéôéêÞò & ÏéêïíïìéêÞò ÅðéóôÞìçò (GRAPESS). Ç IAPSS åßíáé ìßá ðëáôöüñìá ãéá öïéôçôÝò Ðïëéôéêþí Åðéóôçìþí êáé öïéôçôÝò ðïõ åíäéáöÝñïíôáé ãéá æçôÞìáôá Ðïëéôéêþí Åðéóôçìþí, åíþ ç ¸íùóç åßíáé äéåèíÞò, ðïëéôéêÜ áíåîÜñôçôç, ìç êåñäïóêïðéêÞ êáé ëåéôïõñãåß ìå ìÝñéìíá ôùí öïéôçôþí. Ôï èÝìá ôïõ Óõíåäñßïõ èá åßíáé ôá «¼ñéá ôçò ðáãêüóìéáò äéáêõâÝñíçóçò» åíþ ôï ÓõíÝäñéï áðïôåëåß ôï ìåãáëýôåñï ãåãïíüò ôçò IAPSS. www.iapss.org
1st IAPSS World Congress 2014 This year, the 1st World Congress of the International Association for Political Science Students (IAPSS) will be held in Thessaloniki from March 31 to April 5, it is organized GRAPESS (Greek Association for Political and Economic Science Students). IAPSS is a platform for Political Science Students and students interested in Political Science issues, whereas the Union is international, politically independent, and non profitable operated by the students. The subject of the congress which is the major event of IAPSS, will be "the Limits of Global Governance". www.iapss.org
1-ûé Âñåìèðíûé Êîíãðåññ IAPSS 2014 1-ûé Âñåìèðíûé Êîíãðåññ Ìåæäóíàðîäíîé àññîöèàöèè ñòóäåíòîâ ïîëèòîëîãèè - IAPSS (International Association for Political Science Students) ñîñòîèòñÿ â ýòîì ãîäó â Ñàëîíèêàõ ñ 31 ìàðòà ïî 5 àïðåëÿ, è îðãàíèçîâûâàåòñÿ ãðå÷åñêîé îðãàíèçàöèåé ïîëèòè÷åñêîé è ýêîíîìè÷åñêîé íàóêè (GRAPESS). IAPSS ÿâëÿåòñÿ ïëàòôîðìîé äëÿ ñòóäåíòîâ ïîëèòîëîãèè è ñòóäåíòîâ, çàèíòåðåñîâàííûõ âîïðîñàìè ïîëèòè÷åñêèõ íàóê, â òî âðåìÿ êàê Àññîöèàöèÿ ÿâëÿåòñÿ ìåæäóíàðîäíîé, ïîëèòè÷åñêè íåçàâèñèìîé, íåêîììåð÷åñêîé îðãàíèçàöèåé è ôóíêöèîíèðóåò ïîä óïðàâëåíèåì ñòóäåíòîâ. Òåìîé êîíôåðåíöèè áóäåò «Ãðàíèöû ãëîáàëüíîãî óïðàâëåíèÿ», à ñàì Êîíãðåññ ÿâëÿåòñÿ êðóïíåéøèì ñîáûòèåì IAPSS. www.iapss.org
“Let`s do it Greece 2014” Óôéò 6 Áðñéëßïõ ôïõ 2014, ï êáèÝíáò ìáò êáëåßôáé íá óõìâÜëåé óôçí âåëôßùóç ôïõ ôüðïõ ôïõ óå ìßá äñÜóç ðïõ áðïóêïðåß óôïí åèåëïíôéêü êáèáñéóìü üëçò ôçò ÅëëÜäáò. ÖÝôïò ãéá ôñßôç öïñÜ, ç ÅëëÜäá öéëïîåíåß ôçí êáìðÜíéá «Let's do it World» ðïõ áðïôåëåß ôçí ðéï ôá÷Ýùò áíáðôõóóüìåíç åèåëïíôéêÞ êáìðÜíéá ðåñéâáëëïíôéêçò åõáéóèçôïðïßçóçò óå ðáãêüóìéá êëßìáêá, ìå óõììåôï÷Þ 108 ÷ùñþí êáé 8.000.000 åèåëïíôþí. Óêïðüò ôçò åßíáé ìÝóá óå ìßá çìÝñá, ïëüêëçñç ç ÅëëÜäá íá óõíôïíéóôåß ðñáãìáôïðïéþíôáò åèåëïíôéêÝò äñÜóåéò êáèáñéóìïý, åîùñáúóìïý êáé áéóèçôéêÞò áíáâÜèìéóçò óå êÜèå ãùíéÜ ôçò ÷þñáò. www.letsdoitgreeece.org On April 6, 2014, each of us should contribute to the improvement of our home place in the context of an action undertaken with the aim to clean the whole of Greece on a voluntary basis. For the third time this year, Greece hosts the «Let's do it World» campaign which is the most rapidly growing voluntary environmental awareness campaign on a global scale, with the participation of 108 countries and 8.000.000 volunteers. The objective is to coordinate volunteer cleaning, landscaping and esthetic improvement actions throughout Greece within one single day, Thessaloniki cannot refrain from such action. www.letsdoitgreeece.org 6 àïðåëÿ 2014 ãîäà, ïðèãëàøàþòñÿ âñå æåëàþùèå âíåñòè ñâîé âêëàä â óëó÷øåíèå îêðóæàþùåé ñðåäû, â ðàìêàõ ìåðîïðèÿòèé íàïðàâëåííûõ íà äîáðîâîëüíóþ óáîðêó âñåé Ãðåöèè.  ýòîì ãîäó óæå â òðåòèé ðàç, Ãðåöèÿ ïðèíèìàåò ó÷àñòèå â êàìïàíèè «Let's do it World», êîòîðàÿ ÿâëÿåòñÿ ñàìîé áûñòðî ðàçâèâàþùåéñÿ äîáðîâîëüíîé êàìïàíèåé ïðîáóæäåíèÿ ýêîëîãè÷åñêîãî ñîçíàíèÿ âî âñåì ìèðå, âêëþ÷àÿ 108 ñòðàí è 8.000.000 äîáðîâîëüöåâ. Öåëüþ êîìïàíèè ÿâëÿåòñÿ êîîðäèíàöèÿ âñåé Ãðåöèè â òå÷åíèå îäíîãî äíÿ äëÿ ïðîâåäåíèÿ äîáðîâîëüíûõ ìåðîïðèÿòèé ïî óáîðêå, îçåëåíåíèþ è ýñòåòè÷åñêîìó îáíîâëåíèþ â êàæäîì óãîëêå ñòðàíû.  ýòèõ ìåðîïðèÿòèÿõ íå ìîæåò íå ó÷àñòâîâàòü ã.Ñàëîíèêè. www.letsdoitgreeece.org
26 betterfly magazine
11ç ÄéåèíÞò ¸êèåóç Âéâëßïõ Èåóóáëïíßêçò
Áðü ôçí ëßóôá ìå ôá ðéï áíáìåíüìåíá ãåãïíüôá ôçò èåóóáëïíßêçò ãéá ôï 2014 äåí èá ìðïñïýóå íá ëåßðåé ç “ÄéåèíÞò ¸êèåóç Âéâëßïõ”, ðïõ äéïñãáíþíåôáé áðü ôï Õðïõñãåßï Ðïëéôéóìïý êáé ôï Åëëçíéêü ÊÝíôñï Âéâëßïõ, óå óõíåñãáóßá ìå ôçí ÄéåèíÞ ¸êèåóç, êáé ç ïðïßá, óýìöùíá ìå ôçí ðáñÜäïóç, áõôÞ ôç ÷ñïíéÜ êáèéóôÜ ôéìþìåíç ÷þñá ôï ÉóñáÞë. Åðßóçò èá óõìðåñéëáìâÜíåé áöéÝñùìá óôï Åõñùðáúêü âéâëßï, ìå áöïñìÞ ôçí áíÜëçøç ôçò ðñïåäñßáò ôçò ÅõñùðáúêÞò ¸íùóçò áðü ôçí ÅëëÜäá ôï ðñþôï åîÜìçíï ôïõ 2014. Áðü ôéò 8 ùò 11 Ìáßïõ óôïí åêèåóéáêü ÷þñï ôçò Helexpo www.helexpo.gr
11th Thessaloniki International Book Fair
1ï
The International Book Fair is one of the most expected events held in Thessaloniki in the year 2014. It is organized by the Ministry of Culture and the National Book Centre in cooperation with the International Fair, Within the framework of the Guest of Honor Institution, this year, special tribute is given to Israel, further, a tribute to the European Book will be included in view of the Greek Presidency of the European Union in the first six months of 2014. From May 8 to 11 in the exhibition area of Helexpo www.helexpo.gr
11-ÿ Ìåæäóíàðîäíàÿ êíèæíàÿ âûñòàâêà â Ñàëîíèêàõ Èç ñïèñêà ñàìûõ îæèäàåìûõ ñîáûòèé â Ñàëîíèêàõ â 2014 íå ìîãëà îòñóòñòâîâàòü Ìåæäóíàðîäíàÿ Êíèæíàÿ Âûñòàâêà, êîòîðóþ îðãàíèçîâûâàåò Ìèíèñòåðñòâî Êóëüòóðû è Ãðå÷åñêèé Öåíòð Êíèãè, â ñîòðóäíè÷åñòâå ñ Ìåæäóíàðîäíîé Âûñòàâêîé, è êîòîðàÿ, ïî òðàäèöèè â ýòîì ãîäó ïîñâÿùåíà Èçðàèëþ. Êðîìå ýòîãî â ïðîãðàììó âûñòàâêè áóäåò âêëþ÷åíî ïîñâÿùåíèå Åâðîïåéñêîé Êíèãå, ïî ñëó÷àþ ïðèíÿòèÿ Ãðåöèåé Ïðåçèäåíòñòâà Åâðîïåéñêîãî Ñîþçà, â ïåðâîé ïîëîâèíå 2014 ãîäà. Ñ 8 ïî 11 ìàÿ â âûñòàâî÷íîì çàëå Helexpo www.helexpo.gr
Betterfly and better living
Sorry... É' m Greek
ÓáôéñéêÞ êùìùäßá óå åëåýèåñç ìåôÜöñáóç, «Ï Åëëçíáò ôñåëëÜèçêå êáé ôïí ðïõëÜíå ôæÜìðá». Ï ôóïëéÜò ôï óêÜåé áðü ôï Óýíôáãìá êáé áíåâáßíåé óôçí óêçíÞ ôïõ èåÜôñïõ ÑÁÄÉÏ ÓÉÔÕ áðü ôéò 27 Öåâñïõáñßïõ Ìáæß ìå Üëëïõò åöôÜ ¸ëëçíåò, ðïõ ôïõò õðïäýåôáé ìïíáäéêÜ ï ËÜêçò Ëáæüðïõëïò, åîéóôïñïýí ôçí æùÞ ôïõò ìåôÜ ôçí êñßóç Üëëïôå ìïíïëïãþíôáò êáé Üëëïôå óõíïìéëþíôáò ìå Üëëïõò ¸ëëçíåò óôïí êáéñü ôçò áðüãíùóçò. Ïêôþ óðáñôáñéóôÝò éóôïñßåò ãñáììÝíåò áðü ôïí ËÜêç Ëáæüðïõëï ãéá ôï óÞìåñá. Ðéï óÞìåñá äåí ãßíåôáé. Ìéá ðáñÜóôáóç ðïõ áëëÜæåé ôá äåäïìÝíá. www.radiocitytheater.gr A Satirical comedy, liberally translated, “Greeks have gone crazy and are sold for free”. A tsolias (colloquial for light infantry elite soldiers) is running away from the Constitution square and goes on the stage of RADIO CITY Theatre on February 27. Along with another 7 Greeks, uniquely played by Lakis Lazopoulos, they tell the story of their lives after the crisis, either by talking to themselves or by conversing with other Greeks at times of despair. Eight very funny stories written by Lakis Lazopoulos about today. It cannot be more up to date. A performance changing everything we know so far. www.radiocitytheater.gr
Ñîæàëåþ, íî... ÿ ãðåê Ñàòèðè÷åñêàÿ êîìåäèÿ, íàçâàíèå êîòîðîé ìîæíî âîëüíî ïåðåâåñòè, êàê "Ãðåê ñîø¸ë ñ óìà è åãî ïðîäàþò çà áåñöåíîê". Óáåæàâøèé ñ ïëîùàäè Êîíñòèòóöèè ýâçîí áóäåò âûñòóïàòü íà ñöåíå òåàòðà Radio City ñ 27 ôåâðàëÿ. Îí, è åùå ñåìü äðóãèõ ãðå÷åñêèõ ïåðñîíàæåé, êîòîðûõ óíèêàëüíî âîïëîùàåò íà ñöåíå ñàì Ëàêèñ Ëàçîïóëîñ, ðàññêàæóò âàì î ñâîåé æèçíè ïîñëå íàñòóïëåíèÿ êðèçèñà, ðàçãîâàðèâàÿ èíîãäà ñàìè ñ ñîáîé, à èíîãäà ñ äðóãèìè ãðåêàìè, êîòîðûå ñòàðàþòñÿ ïðîáèòüñÿ â ýòè âðåìåíà îò÷àÿíèÿ. Âîñåìü âåñåëûõ æèâîòðåïåùóùèõ èñòîðèé, íàïèñàííûõ Ëàêèñîì Ëàçîïóëîñîì íà çëîáó äíÿ. Ñàìûå àêòóàëüíûå èñòîðèè î ñåãîäíÿøíåì äíå. Ýòîò ñïåêòàëü âêîðíå èçìåíèò âàøè ïðåäñòàâëåíèÿ. www.radiocitytheater.gr
28 betterfly magazine
Yacobson Ballet «Giselle» Ôï Yacobson Ballet Theatre, êáëëéôå÷íéêüò äéåõèõíôÞò ôïõ ïðïßïõ åßíáé ï Andrian Fadeev, åßíáé ìéá ìïíáäéêÞ äçìéïõñãéêÞ êïëëåêôßâá ðïõ óõíäõÜæåé óôï Ýñãï ôçò ôï êëáóóéêü ìå ôï ðáñüí, ôçí áõóôçñüôçôá ìå ôçí Ýêöñáóç. Ôï ÈÝáôñï Yacobson éäñýèçêå ôï 1969 óôçí Áãßá Ðåôñïýðïëç áðü ìéá ìåãÜëç ìïñöÞ ôïõ ìðáëÝôïõ ôïõ 20ïõ áéþíá, ôïí Leonid Yacobson. Ðïëý ãñÞãïñá åäñáéþèçêå óôçí éóôïñßá ôçò êïõëôïýñáò êáé ôïõ ðïëéôéóìïý ôïõ Ñùóéêïý ìðáëÝôïõ. Áðü ôéò 28 ùò ôéò 30 Ìáñôßïõ ðáñïõóéÜæåé ôï êëáóóéêü áñéóôïýñãçìá Giselle, óôï èÝáôñï Badminton óôçí ÁèÞíá.Ôï ìðáëÝôï áöçãåßôáé ôçí éóôïñßá ìéáò áîéáãÜðçôçò ÷ùñéáôïðïýëáò, ôçò ÆéæÝë, ðïõ ôñÝöåé ìåãÜëï ðÜèïò ãéá ôïí ÷ïñü, êáé ìüëéò áíáêáëýðôåé üôé ï Üíäñáò ìå ôïí ïðïßï åßíáé åñùôåõìÝíç áññáâùíéÜæåôáé êÜðïéá Üëëç, ðåèáßíåé ìå ñáãéóìÝíç ôçí êáñäéÜ. www.badmintontheater.gr
Yacobson Ballet Theatre, with Andrian Fadeev being its Art Director, is a unique creative collective combining in its performance the classical and the present, the austerity and the expression. Yacobson Theatre was founded in 1969 in Saint Petersburg, by a major personality of the 20th century ballet, Leonid Yacobson. He was established very quickly in the history of the Russian Ballet culture and civilization. From March 28 to 30, the classical masterpiece "Giselle", is performed at the Athens Badminton Theatre. The ballet tells the story of a lovely peasant girl, Giselle, who is very passionate for dancing and when she discovers that the man she loves is engaged to someone else, she dies brokenhearted. www.badmintontheater.gr
Òåàòð Áàëåòà ßêîáñîíà «Æèçåëü»
Òåàòð Áàëåòà ßêîáñîíà, õóäîæåñòâåííûì ðóêîâîäèòåëåì êîòîðîãî ÿâëÿåòñÿ Àíäðèàí Ôàäååâ ýòî óíèêàëüíûé òâîð÷åñêèé êîëëåêòèâ, êîòîðûé ñî÷åòàåò êëàññèêó ñ ñîâðåìåííîñòüþ, ñòðîãîñòü ñ âûðàçèòåëüíîñòüþ. Òåàòð Áàëåòà ßêîáñîíà îñíîâàí â 1969 ãîäó â Ñàíêò-Ïåòåðáóðãå èçâåñòíîé ëè÷íîñòüþ â áàëåòíîì ìèðå 20-ãî âåêà Ëåîíèäîì ßêîáñîíîì. Î÷åíü áûñòðî çàðåêîìåíäîâàë ñåáÿ â èñòîðèè êóëüòóðû è öèâèëèçàöèè ðóññêîãî áàëåòà. Ñ 28 ïî 30 ìàðòà ïðåäñòàâëÿåò êëàññè÷åñêèé øåäåâð «Æèçåëü» â òåàòðå «Áàäìèíòîí» â Àôèíàõ. Áàëåò ðàññêàçûâàåò èñòîðèþ ïðåêðàñíîé êðåñòüÿíñêîé äåâóøêè Æèçåëè, êîòîðàÿ ïèòàåò áîëüøóþ ñòðàñòü ê òàíöó, è òàê òîëüêî îíà îáíàðóæèâàåò, ÷òî ìóæ÷èíà, â êîòîðîãî îíà âëþáëåíà, îáðó÷àåòñÿ ñ äðóãîé, îíà óìèðàåò îò ðàçáèòîãî ñåðäöà. www.badmintontheater.gr
Betterfly and better living “Beware! The prince is messy” "Princes and princesses who are something of slobs, muddy little animals with many human characteristics and adults who act like children in the process of growing up". A new opera addressing children as well, by Nikos Kypourgos: a libretto directed by Thomas Moschopoulos, a topsy-turvy story based on the fairy tale by Christian Andersen The Swineherd, it is about a prince who disguises himself as a swineherd in order to win the affections of a stuck-up princess. Drama plays with comedy, emotion and cynicism and the seduction plays with deception. For the very first time, the Opera is inaugurating a series of evening performances for an opera written especially for children, as this spectacle can be appreciated as much by children as by adults, till the end of March. www.nationalopera.gr
“Ðñïóï÷Þ! Ï ðñßãêéðáò ëåñþíåé”
“Âíèìàíèå! À ïðèíö ìîæåò è çàïà÷êàòü”
«Ðñßãêéðåò êáé ðñéãêßðéóóåò ðïõ åßíáé êáé ëßãï «âñùìüðáéäá», ëáóðùìÝíá æùÜêéá ìå ðïëý …ìá ðÜñá ðïëý «áíèñþðéíá» óôïé÷åßá óôïí ÷áñáêôÞñá ôïõò, ìåãÜëïé ðïõ öÝñïíôáé óáí ðáéäÜêéá êáé «ðáéäéÜ» ðïõ ùñéìÜæïõí». Ç íÝá üðåñá êáé.. ãéá ðáéäéÜ ôïõ Íßêïõ Êõðïõñãïý óå ðïéçôéêü êåßìåíï êáé óêçíïèåóßá ÈùìÜ Ìïó÷üðïõëïõ åßíáé Ýíá áíáôñåðôéêü ðáñáìýèé üðïõ üëá åßíáé ëßãï «ðåéñáãìÝíá» êáé ôßðïôá äåí «åßíáé» üðùò «öáßíåôáé» óôçí áñ÷Þ. Ç éóôïñßá âáóßæåôáé óôï äéÜóçìï ðáñáìýèé ôïõ ×áíò Êñßóôéáí ¢íôåñóåí Ï ðñßãêéðáò ÷ïéñïâïóêüò êáé ìéëÜåé ãéá Ýíáí ðñßãêéðá ï ïðïßïò íôýíåôáé ÷ïéñïâïóêüò ãéá íá êåñäßóåé ôçí êáñäéÜ ôçò áëáæïíéêÞò ðñéãêßðéóóáò. ¸ôóé ôï äñÜìá áíáìåéãíýåôáé ìå ôçí êùìùäßá, ôï óõíáßóèçìá ìå ôïí êõíéóìü êáé ç ãïçôåßá ìå ôçí áðïãïÞôåõóç... Ãéá ðñþôç öïñÜ ç ËõñéêÞ åãêáéíéÜæåé êáé ìéá óåéñÜ âñáäéíþí ðáñáóôÜóåùí óôçí ðáñáãùãÞ ôçò üðåñáò êáé ãéá ðáéäéÜ, ìéáò êáé ðñüêåéôáé ãéá Ýíá èÝáìá ðïõ áöïñÜ åîßóïõ ôá ðáéäéÜ êáé ôï åíÞëéêï êïéíü. Ùò ôá ôÝëç Ìáñôßïõ. www.nationalopera.gr
«Ïðèíöû è ïðèíöåññû, ñëåãêà «çàìàðàííûå îòïðûñêè», çâåðþøêè-çàìàðàøêè ñ î÷åíü… íó î÷åíü «÷åëîâå÷åñêèìè» ÷åðòàìè õàðàêòåðà. Âçðîñëûå, êîòîðûå âåäóò ñåáÿ êàê äåòè, è «äåòè», êîòîðûå âçðîñëåþò». Íîâàÿ îïåðà è… äëÿ äåòåé, â ïîñòàíîâêå Íèêîñà Êèïóðãó, íà ñòèõè è â ïîñòàíîâêå Ôîìû Ìîñõîïóëîñà - ýòî âçðûâíàÿ ñêàçêà, ãäå âñ¸ íåìíîãî «ïåðåä¸ðíóòî», è âñ¸ âíà÷àëå îáìàí÷èâî íà âèä. Ñþæåòîì ïîñëóæèëà çíàìåíèòàÿ ñêàçêà Õàíñà Êðèñòèàíà Àíäåðñåíà «Ñâèíîïàñ», ãäå ðå÷ü èä¸ò î ïðèíöå, êîòîðûé ïåðåîäåâàåòñÿ ñâèíîïàñîì, ÷òîáû çàâîåâàòü æåñòîêîå ñåðäöå âåðîëîìíîé ïðèíöåññû. Òàê äðàìà ïåðåìåøèâàåòñÿ ñ êîìåäèåé, áîëüøîå è ñâåòëîå ÷óâñòâî ñ öèíèçìîì, à î÷àðîâàíèå - ñ ðàçî÷àðîâàíèåì. Âïåðâûå Íàöèîíàëüíûé îïåðíûé òåàòð íà÷èíàåò ðÿä âå÷åðíèõ îïåðíûõ ïðåäñòàâëåíèé äëÿ äåòåé, ïîñêîëüêó ðå÷ü èä¸ò î êðàñî÷íîì çðåëèùå, êàñàþùåìñÿ êàê äåòåé, òàê è âçðîñëûõ çðèòåëåé. Ïðåäñòàâëåíèÿ áóäóò äëèòüñÿ äî êîíöà ìàðòà. www.nationalopera.gr
“Ìïíïãñáößåò” ÅéêáóôéêÞ Ýêèåóç ôïõ ÁíäñÝá Âïýóïõñá êáé ôïõ Ãéþñãïõ Ôóåñéþíç, ìå ôßôëï «Ìïíïãñáößåò», ðáñïõóéÜæåôáé óôç ÄçìïôéêÞ ÂéâëéïèÞêç ×áíßùí.Ôï óýíïëï ôùí Ýñãùí ôïõ Ãéþñãïõ Ôóåñéþíç êáé ôïõ ÁíäñÝá Âïýóïõñá áðïôåëåß Ýíáí ó÷ïëéáóìü ãéá ôá êïéíùíéêïðïëéôéêÜ ðñïâëÞìáôá ðïõ áíôéìåôùðßæåé ç åëëçíéêÞ êïéíùíßá ôá ôåëåõôáßá ÷ñüíéá. Ç õðïêåéìåíéêüôçôá êáé ôï ôõ÷áßï, áíáðüóðáóôï êïììÜôé ôçò áíèñþðéíçò öýóçò, áðïôåëïýí áöåôçñßá êáé âáóéêü Üîïíá ãéá ôçí åñìçíåßá ôùí Ýñãùí ôïõò. ÌïñöÝò, áñ÷åôõðéêÜ óýìâïëá êáé ãåùìåôñéêÝò äïìÝò, ÷ñçóéìïðïéïýíôáé áðü ôïõò êáëëéôÝ÷íåò ãéá ôçí ðáñáóôáôéêÞ áðåéêüíéóç ôùí èåìÜôùí ôïõò. ÌïñöÝò êáé óýìâïëá ðïõ óõ÷íÜ îáöíéÜæïõí ìå ôï éäéáßôåñï ýöïò ôïõò. Ç Ýêèåóç èá äéáñêÝóåé ìÝ÷ñé 31 ÌáÀïõ 2014 www.chania.gr
Monographies
Ìîíîãðàôèè
The Municipal Library of Chania presents the visual art exhibition of Andreas Vousouras and George Tserionis entitled "Monographies". As a whole, the artwork of both Andreas Vousouras and George Tserionis is a comment on the social and political problems the Greek society is faced with lately. Subjectiveness and random are an integral part of the human nature as well as the reference point and the basic axis for the interpretation of their work. Forms, archetypal symbols and geometrical structures are used by the artists for the visual representation of their topics. Forms and symbols that use to amaze with their distinct style. The exhibition will last until May 31st, 2014. www.chania.gr
Õóäîæåñòâåííàÿ âûñòàâêà Àíäðåàñà Âóñóðàñà è Ãåîðãèîñà Öåðèîíè ïîä íàçâàíèåì "Ìîíîãðàôèè" ñîñòîèòñÿ â ãîðîäñêîé íà áèáëèîòåêå ã. Õàíüÿ (îñòðîâ Êðèò). Ñîáðàíèå âñåõ ïðîèçâåäåíèé Àíäðåàñà Âóñóðàñà è Ãåîðãèîñà Öåðèîíè ÿâëÿåòñÿ íàñòîÿùèì îáñóæäåíèåì ñîöèàëüíî-ïîëèòè÷åñêèõ ïðîáëåì, ñòîÿùèõ ïåðåä ãðå÷åñêèì îáùåñòâîì â ïîñëåäíèå ãîäû. Ñóáúåêòèâíîñòü è ñëó÷àéíîñòü - íåîòúåìëåìàÿ ÷àñòü ÷åëîâå÷åñêîé ïðèðîäû ÿâëÿþòñÿ îòïðàâíîé òî÷êîé è îñíîâîé äëÿ èíòåðïðåòàöèè èõ ïðîèçâåäåíèé. Ôîðìû, àðõåòèïè÷åñêèå ñèìâîëû è ãåîìåòðè÷åñêèå ñòðóêòóðû èñïîëüçóþòñÿ õóäîæíèêàìè äëÿ îáðàçíîãî îòîáðàæåíèÿ âîëíóþùèõ èõ òåì. Ýòî ôîðìû è ñèìâîëû, êîòîðûå ÷àñòî óäèâëÿþò çðèòåëÿ ñïåöèôè÷íîñòüþ ñòèëÿ. Âûñòàâêà ïðîäëèòñÿ äî 31 ìàÿ 2014 ã. www.chania.gr
30 betterfly magazine
Mediterranean Salsa
Betterfly and better living
And Kizomba Festival
×ïñåýåéò Salsa Þ Kizomba; Äåí ÷ïñåýåéò, áëëÜ èÝëåéò íá ìÜèåéò; Äåí èÝëåéò íá ìÜèåéò, áëëÜ èÝëåéò íá ðÜñåéò ìéá ãåýóç áðü Latin ëßêíéóìá êáé ôÝ÷íç… êáé íá ðåñÜóåéò áîÝ÷áóôá; Ìå ìüôï "The Art of Connection", ìå show, events êáé parties ðïõ èá ìáò êüøïõí ôçí áíÜóá, ìå äÜóêáëïõò, ÷ïñåõôÝò êáé djs áðü ôçí Ìåóüãåéï êáé ôá ÂáëêÜíéá… ôï Mediterranean Salsa and Kizomba Festival Ýñ÷åôáé óôç Èåóóáëïíßêç ãéá ðñþôç öïñÜ, öéëïäïîþíôáò íá ìáò ÷ïñÝøåé, íá ìáò øõ÷áãùãÞóåé, íá ìáò âÜëåé óôïí ðáëìü ôçò latin. ÐáñáóêåõÞ 21- ÊõñéáêÞ 23 Ìáñôßïõ Óôï Principal Club Theater êáé óôï Club ôïõ Ìýëïõ www.mediterraneanfestival.gr Do you dance Salsa or Kizomba? You do not dance but you wish to learn? You do not want to learn but you wish to have a taste of swaying to the Latin beat and art… and enjoy yourself incredibly along the way? Going by the moto "The Art of Connection", with breathtaking shows, events and parties, with teachers, dancers and djs from the Mediterranean and the Balkans… Mediterranean Salsa and Kizomba Festival comes to Thessaloniki for the very first time, with the ambition to entertain us, to dance with us, to make us sway to the Latin beat. Friday 21- Sunday 23 of March At the Principal Club Theater and at Mylos Club www.mediterraneanfestival.gr Âû òàíöóåòå òàêèå òàíöû êàê Salsa èëè Kizomba? Íå òàíöóåòå, íî õîòåëè áû íàó÷èòüñÿ? Íå õîòèòå íàó÷èòüñÿ, íî õîòåëè áû ïðîñòî âêóñèòü íåìíîãî îò èñêóññòâà ëàòèíîàìåðèêàíñêèõ òàíöåâ… è ïîáàëîâàòü ñåáÿ? Ïîä ëîçóíãîì: «The Art of Connection» («Èñêóññòâî ñâÿçè»), ñ ðàçëè÷íûìè øîó, ñîáûòèÿìè è ÿðêèìè party, ãäå çàõâàòûâàåò äóõ, ñ ó÷èòåëÿìè òàíöåâ, òàíöîðàìè è äè-äæåÿìè èç ñòðàí Áàëêàíñêîãî ïîëóîñòðîâà è Ñðåäèçåìíîìîðüÿ… âïåðâûå â ã. Ñàëîíèêè áóäåò ïðîâîäèòüñÿ Mediterranean Salsa and Kizomba Festival (Ñðåäèçåìíîìîðñêèé Ôåñòèâàëü Ñàëüñû è Êèçîìáû), ÷òîáû ñòàíöåâàòü ñ íàìè, ðàçâëå÷ü, çàðÿäèòü èìïóëüñàìè Latin. Ñ ïÿòíèöû 21-ãî ïî âîñêðåñåíüå 23-òüå ìàðòà. Ìåñòî ïðîâåäåíèÿ: Principal Club Theater è êëóá «Ìèëîñ» www.mediterraneanfestival.gr
32 betterfly magazine
Eêèåóç Öùôïãñáößáò “Massimo Listri” Ç Ýêèåóç «Massimo Listri, öùôïãñáöéêÞ Áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞ» ðïõ öéëïîåíåßôáé ùò ôéò 16 Ìáñôßïõ óôï Ìïõóåßï ÌðåíÜêç ðáñïõóéÜæåé ìéá åðéëïãÞ öùôïãñáöéþí ôïõ êáëëéôÝ÷íç Massimo Listri, ç ïðïßá ðåñéëáìâÜíåé ôéò åéêïíéêÝò ôïõ ðñïïðôéêÝò ãéá ôá ìðáñüê ðáëÜôéá, ôïõò íåïêëáóéêïýò åóùôåñéêïýò ÷þñïõò êáé ôéò áíáãåííçóéáêÝò âéâëéïèÞêåò. Ï öùôïãñÜöïò ðïõ Ý÷åé ùò Ýäñá ôïõ ôç Öëùñåíôßá, üíôáò ãïçôåõìÝíïò áðü ôïí áðüëõôï Ýëåã÷ï ôçò óýíèåóçò ðïõ ôïõ åðéôñÝðåé íá Ý÷åé ç áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞ èåìáôïëïãßá, öùôïãñáößæåé ôïí Üøõ÷ï êëáóéêéóìü åäþ êáé ðïëëÜ ÷ñüíéá. Ðåñéóóüôåñï áðü áðëÞ êáôáãñáöÞ ôçò áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞò, ï Listri áíáêáëýðôåé åê íÝïõ ôïõò éóôïñéêïýò ÷þñïõò êáé ìáò êáëåß íá ôïõò åîåôÜóïõìå ìå öñÝóêéá ìáôéÜ. www.benaki.gr The Exhibition Massimo Listri, photographic Architecture» is held at Benaki Museum until March 16, and exhibits a selection of photographs by artist Massimo Listri, which include his iconic prospects of baroque palaces, the neoclassical interiors and the Renaissance libraries. The photographer, who is based in Florence and is fascinated how his architectural subject matter allows him to control the composition of his architectural images, is taking pictures of the classicism devoid of people for many years now. More than a simple record of architecture, through his lens Listri rediscovers historical spaces and invites us to examine them afresh. www.benaki.gr Âûñòàâêà Ìàññèìî Listri, ôîòîãðàôè÷åñêàÿ àðõèòåêòóðà, êîòîðàÿ ïðîäëèòñÿ äî 16 ìàðòà â Ìóçåå Áåíàêè, ïðåäñòàâëÿåò ïîäáîðêó ôîòîðàáîò õóäîæíèêà Ìàññèìî Listri, è âêëþ÷àåò ôîòîãðàôèè, ÿâëÿþùèåñÿ ïåðñïåêòèâàìè äâîðöîâ â ñòèëå áàðîêêî, èíòåðüåðîâ â ñòèëå íåîêëàññèöèçìà è áèáëèîòåê ýïîõè Âîçðîæäåíèÿ. Ôîòîãðàô, ïîñòîÿííî ïðîæèâàþùèé âî Ôëîðåíöèè, áóäó÷è î÷àðîâàí àáñîëþòíîé ãàðìîíèåé êîìïîçèöèè, ïðåäîñòàâëåííîé åìó òåìîé çîä÷åñòâà, ôîòîãðàôèðóåò íåîäóøåâë¸ííûé êëàññèöèçì óæå â òå÷åíèå ìíîãèõ ëåò. Èçîáðàæàÿ íå÷òî áîëüøåå, ÷åì ïðîñòî ôèêñèðîâàíèå àðõèòåêòóðû, Listri çàíîâî îòêðûâàåò èñòîðè÷åñêèå ìåñòà, è ïðèãëàøàåò âçãëÿíóòü íà íèõ ñâåæèì âçãëÿäîì. www.benaki.gr
Betterfly and better living
9ïò ÄéåèíÞò Ìáñáèþíéïò «ÌÝãáò ÁëÝîáíäñïò» 9th International Marathon «Alexander the Great» ¸íá áêüìá óðïõäáßï áèëçôéêü ãåãïíüò åðéóôñÝöåé óôçí Èåóóáëïíßêç ãéá ôï 2014. O 9ïò ÄéåèíÞò Ìáñáèþíéïò «ÌÝãáò ÁëÝîáíäñïò» èá ðñáãìáôïðïéçèåß ôçí ÊõñéáêÞ 6 Áðñéëßïõ ðëáéóéùìÝíïò áðü ôïõò äñüìïõò õãåßáò 5.000ì.,10.000ì.êáé 1.000ì., óå ìßá äéïñãÜíùóç ðïõ èá óõãêåíôñþóåé áíáìößâïëá êáé ðÜëé Üðåéñïõò óõììåôÝ÷ïíôåò. www.alexanderthegreatmarathon.org
One more important sports event comes back to Thessaloniki in 2014. The 9th International Alexander the Great Marathon will be held on Sunday, April 6, the program will also include races of Health of 5.000m, 10.000m and 1.000m, this event will undoubtedly gather, once more, even inexperienced runners. www.alexanderthegreatmarathon.org
IX-é ìåæäóíàðîäíûé ìàðàôîí «Àëåêñàíäð Ìàêåäîíñêèé» Åùå îäíî âàæíîå ñïîðòèâíîå ñîáûòèå âîçâðàùàåòñÿ â ã.Ñàëîíèêè â 2014 ãîäó. IX-é ìåæäóíàðîäíûé ìàðàôîí "Àëåêñàíäð Ìàêåäîíñêèé" ïðîéäåò â âîñêðåñåíüå, 6 àïðåëÿ ïî ìàðøðóòàì çäîðîâüÿ, ïðîòÿæ¸ííîñòüþ 5000ì., 10.000ì. è 1000ì., è, íåñîìíåííî, â ýòîì ìåðîïðèÿòèè ïðèìóò ó÷àñòèå ìíîãèå. www.alexanderthegreatmarathon.org
Ðáíåõñùðáúêü ÐñùôÜèëçìá ÑÜãêìðé 2014! Óå ìßá áêüìç ðñùôéÜ ãéá ôçí Èåóóáëïíßêç, óôï ðëáßóéï ôùí åêäçëþóåùí ãéá ôçí «Èåóóáëïíßêç-ÅõñùðáúêÞ Ðñùôåýïõóá Íåïëáßáò», èá ðñáãìáôïðïéçèåß ôïí ÌÜéï ôïõ 2014 ôï Ðáíåõñùðáúêü ÐñùôÜèëçìá ÑÜãêìðé, óôï ïðïßï èá óõììåôÜó÷ïõí ç ÅèíéêÞ ÏìÜäá ÑÜãêìðé áíäñþí, ç ÅèíéêÞ ãõíáéêþí êáé óýëëïãïé áð'üëç ôçí ÅëëÜäá. Óôï ðñùôÜèëçìá èá óõììåôÝ÷ïõí äÝêá åõñùðáúêÝò ÷þñåò (ÅëëÜäá, Åëâåôßá, Áõóôñßá, Ìïíáêü, Ïõããáñßá, Êñïáôßá, Ôïõñêßá, Âïõëãáñßá, Âïóíßá - Åñæåãïâßíç, Ëïõîåìâïýñãï), åíþ ïé êÜôïéêïé ôçò ðüëçò åß÷áí ìéá ðñþôç ãíùñéìßá ìå ôï ïëõìðéáêü Üèëçìá ðëÝïí, ôïí Ïêôþâñéï ôïõ 2013, óôçí åðßäåéîç ôçò Ðëáôåßáò ÁñéóôïôÝëïõò ðïõ äéïñãáíþèçêå áðü ôïí ÄÞìï Èåóóáëïíßêçò. www.thessaloniki2014.gr
European Rugby Championship 2014! One more first-time event for Thessaloniki with regard to the events held in the context of the European Rugby Championship in May 2014 with the participation of the men National Rugby team, the women National Rugby team and unions throughout Greece. Ten European countries will take part in the championship (Greece, Switzerland, Austria, Monaco, Hungary, Croatia, Turkey, Bulgaria, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Luxemburg), and the inhabitants of the city were initially acquainted with this new Olympic in October 2013, at a demonstration in Aristotelous square organized by the Municipality of Thessaloniki. www.thessaloniki2014.gr
34 betterfly magazine
×åìïèîíàò Åâðîïû ïî ðåãáè 2014! Âïåðâûå â ãîðîäå Ñàëîíèêè â ðàìêàõ ìåðîïðèÿòèé ïðîãðàììû "Åâðîïåéñêàÿ ñòîëèöà ìîëîä¸æè" â ìàå 2014 ãîäà áóäåò ïðîâåäåí ÷åìïèîíàòà Åâðîïû ïî ðåãáè, â êîòîðîì áóäåò ïðèíèìàòü ó÷àñòèå ìóæñêàÿ ñáîðíàÿ êîìàíäà ïî ðåãáè, æåíñêàÿ ñáîðíàÿ êîìàíäà è êëóáû ñî âñåé Ãðåöèè.  ×åìïèîíàòå áóäóò ó÷àñòâîâàòü äåñÿòü åâðîïåéñêèõ ñòðàí (Ãðåöèÿ, Øâåéöàðèÿ, Àâñòðèÿ, Ìîíàêî, Âåíãðèÿ, Õîðâàòèÿ, Òóðöèÿ, Áîëãàðèÿ, Áîñíèÿ - Ãåðöåãîâèíà, Ëþêñåìáóðã), â òî âðåìÿ êàê æèòåëè ãîðîäà èìåëè çàìå÷àòåëüíóþ âîçìîæíîñòü âïåðâûå ïîçíàêîìèòüñÿ ñ òåïåðü óæå îëèìïèéñêèì âèäîì ñïîðòà â îêòÿáðå 2013 ãîäà, ãäå ïðîø¸ë ïîêàçàòåëüíûé ìàò÷ íà ïëîùàäè èì. Àðèñòîòåëÿ, îðãàíèçîâàííûé ìóíèöèïàëèòåòîì ãîðîäà Ñàëîíèêè. www.thessaloniki2014.gr
400 ÷ñüíéá áöéÝñùìá óôïí ÄïìÞíéêï Èåïôïêüðïõëï
A tribute to Dominikos Theotokopoulos celebrating 400 years from his death 400 years since the death of "El Greco", Toledo, the city at which he spent the biggest part of his life, has scheduled a series of events to honor the greatest painter. On March 14, the opening of one of the biggest exhibitions ever held at worldwide level has been scheduled. 80 paintings of Theotokopoulos from his most important galleries and museums of the world will be gathered. The works will be accommodated in five different buildings of Toledo, known as "El Greco" spaces. On April 7, the date that 400 years from his death are celebrated, a concert with a requiem of Cristïbal de Morales directed by Mikael Nun has been scheduled. On September the exhibition with title "El Greco, art and work" will open and the relationship of the creator with his creation space will become known.
Ê 400-ëåòèþ ñî äíÿ ñìåðòè ïîñâÿùåíèå ÄîìåíèêîñóÒåîòîêîïóëî  ðàìêàõ ïðàçäíîâàíèÿ 400-ëåòèÿ ñî äíÿ ñìåðòè Ýëü Ãðåêî, â ã. Òîëåäî äðåâíåé ñòîëèöå Èñïàíèè, ãäå õóäîæíèê ïðîâ¸ë áîëüøóþ ÷àñòü æèçíè áóäåò ïðîâåä¸í ðÿä ïðàçäíåñòâ, ïîñâÿù¸ííûõ ïàìÿòè âåëèêîãî ìàñòåðà. Íà 14-òîå ìàðòà çàïëàíèðîâàíî îòêðûòèå îäíîé èç ñàìûõ áîëüøèõ, îðãàíèçîâàííûõ âî âñ¸ì ìèðå, âûñòàâîê. Íà ýòîé âûñòàâêå áóäåò ñîáðàíî 80 êàðòèí Òåîòîêîïóëîñà èç êðóïíûõ ãàëåðåé è ìóçååâ ìèðà. Ïðîèçâåäåíèÿ áóäóò âûñòàâëåíû â ïÿòè ðàçëè÷íûõ çäàíèÿõ ã. Òîëåäî, êîòîðûå èçâåñòíû êàê ìåñòà «Ýëü Ãðåêî». 7-ãî àïðåëÿ, â äåíü 400ëåòíåé ãîäîâùèíû ñìåðòè õóäîæíèêà, ñîñòîèòñÿ êîíöåðò, ãäå ïðîçâó÷èò ðåêâèåì Cristóbal de Morales, â èñïîëíåíèè îðêåñòðà ïîä ðóêîâîäñòâîì Mikael Nun.  ñåíòÿáðå áóäåò îòêðûòà âûñòàâêà ïîä íàçâàíèåì: «Ýëü Ãðåêî, èñêóññòâî è òâîðåíèÿ», ãäå áóäåò ïðîñëåæåíî âçàèìîîòíîøåíèå ìàñòåðà ñî âðåìåíåì, â êîòîðîå îí òâîðèë. www.elgreco2014.com
400 ÷ñüíéá áðü ôïí èÜíáôï ôïõ «Åë ÃêñÝêï», ôï ÔïëÝäï, ç ðüëç ðïõ ôïí öéëïîÝíçóå óôï ìåãáëýôåñï ìÝñïò ôçò æùÞò ôïõ, Ý÷åé ðñïãñáììáôßóåé ìéá óåéñÜ åêäçëþóåéò ãéá íá ôéìÞóåé ôïí ìåãÜëï æùãñÜöï. Óôéò 14 Ìáñôßïõ Ý÷ïõí ðñïãñáììáôéóôåß ôá åãêáßíéá ìéáò áðü ôéò ìåãáëýôåñåò åêèÝóåéò ðïõ Ý÷ïõí äéïñãáíùèåß ðïôÝ ðáãêïóìßùò. Èá óõãêåíôñùèïýí 80 ðßíáêåò ôïõ Èåïôïêüðïõëïõ, áðü ôéò óçìáíôéêüôåñåò ãêáëåñß êáé ìïõóåßá ôïõ êüóìïõ. Ôá Ýñãá èá öéëïîåíçèïýí óå ðÝíôå äéáöïñåôéêÜ êôßñéá ôïõ ÔïëÝäï, ãíùóôÜ êáé ùò ÷þñïé ôïõ «Åë ÃêñÝêï». Óôéò 7 Áðñéëßïõ, çìÝñá ðïõ óõìðëçñþíïíôáé ôá 400 ÷ñüíéá áðü ôïí èÜíáôï ôïõ, Ý÷åé ðñïãñáììáôéóôåß óõíáõëßá ìå ôï ñÝêâéåì ôïõ Cristobal de Morales ôçí ïðïßá äéåõèýíåé ï Mikael Nun. Ôïí ÓåðôÝìâñç èá åãêáéíéáóôåß ç Ýêèåóç «Åë ÃêñÝêï, ôÝ÷íç êáé äïõëåéÜ» óôçí ïðïßá èá öáíåß ç ó÷Ýóç ôïõ äçìéïõñãïý ìå ôïí ÷þñï äçìéïõñãßáò ôïõ. www.elgreco2014.com
Betterfly and better living
Ôï óáëéãêÜñé Ôï èÝáôñï Êéüãêåí (óå ìåôÜöñáóç: «ôñåëÜ ëüãéá») Ý÷åé ôéò ñßæåò ôïõ óôçí Éáðùíßá ôïõ 14ïõ áéþíá. Åîåëß÷èçêå ðáñÜëëçëá ìå ôï èÝáôñï Íï, áëëÜ Ý÷åé êõñßùò óáôéñéêü êáé êùìéêü ðåñéå÷üìåíï. Ìå áðëÜ êïóôïýìéá êáé åëÜ÷éóôá óêçíéêÜ ìÝóá, ïé çèïðïéïß ÷ñçóéìïðïéïýí áðëïýò, êáèçìåñéíïýò äéáëüãïõò êáé ç èåáôñéêÞ Ýêöñáóç ðçãÜæåé ìÝóá áðü Ýíôïíåò êéíÞóåéò êáé ÷åéñïíïìßåò.Ìå åðéêåöáëÞò ôïí Noritoshi Yamamoto, ï Èßáóïò ðáñïõóéÜæåé óôï ÌÝãáñï ÌïõóéêÞ Áèçíþí óôéò 18 & 19 Ìáñôßïõ ôï Ýñãï «Ôï óáëéãêÜñé». www.megaron.gr
The Snail Kyogen Theatre (translation: «mad words») has its root in 14th century Japan. It was developed in conjunction with Noh Theatre, but its content is more satirical and comic. With simple costumes and minimum sets, the actors on stage use simple colloquial language and the drama results from the exaggerated movements and gestures. With Noritoshi Yamamoto leading the Company, the later performs "The Snail" in Athens Concert Hall, on March 18 & 19. www.megaron.gr
Óëèòêà Òåàòð ʸãýí (â ïåðåâîäå: "ñóìàñøåäøèå ñëîâà") áåð¸ò íà÷àëî â ßïîíèè â 14-îì âåêå. Ðàçâèëñÿ îäíîâðåìåííî ñ òåàòðîì «Íî», íî èìååò â îñíîâíîì ñàòèðè÷åñêîå è êîìè÷åñêîå ñîäåðæàíèå. Ñ ïðîñòûìè êîñòþìàìè è ìèíèìàëüíûì ðåêâèçèòîì, àêòåðû èñïîëüçóþò ïðîñòûå, ïîâñåäíåâíûå äèàëîãè, à òåàòðàëüíîå âûðàæåíèå èñõîäèò îò ýíåðãè÷íûõ äâèæåíèé è æåñòîâ. Òðóïïà òåàòðà, âîçãëàâëÿåìàÿ Noritoshi Yamamoto, 18 è 19 ìàðòà ïðåäñòàâëÿåò â Êîíöåðòíîì Äâîðöå Àôèí ïðîèçâåäåíèå «Óëèòêà». www.megaron.gr
Ï William Klein óôç ãêáëåñß Foam óôï ¢ìóôåñíôáì William Klein at Foam Gallery in Amsterdam A flashback at the career of William Klein will be presented at Foam Gallery. This period the whole building of the gallery is full of impressive image printings shedding light on the multifaceted creative course of the artist, who made his own contribution to the history of photography being not only the master of street photography, but also one of the most inventive fashion photographers. www.foam.org
William Klein â ãàëåðåå «Foam» â ã. Àìñòåðäàì
ÁíáäñïìÞ óôçí ðïñåßá ôïõ William Klein èá ðáñïõóéÜæåôáé óôçí ãêáëåñß Foam. ÁõôÞ ôçí ðåñßïäï ïëüêëçñï ôï êôßñéï ôçò ãêáëåñß åßíáé ãåìÜôï áðü åíôõðùóéáêÜ ôõðþìáôá åéêüíùí, áðü ôï óýíïëï ôïõ Ýñãïõ ôïõ, öùôßæïíôáò ôçí ðïëýðëåõñç äçìéïõñãéêÞ ðïñåßá ôïõ êáëëéôÝ÷íç ðïõ Ý÷åé ãñÜøåé ôçí äéêÞ ôïõ óåëßäá óôçí éóôïñßá ôçò öùôïãñáößáò, ùò Ýíáò áðü ôïõò ìåôñ ôçò öùôïãñáößáò ôïõ äñüìïõ, áëëÜ êáé Ýíáò áðü ôïõò ðéï åõöÜíôáóôïõò öùôïãñÜöïõò ìüäáò. www.foam.org
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Ðåòðîñïåêòèâíàÿ âûñòàâêà ðàáîò ôîòîõóäîæíèêà Óèëüÿìà Êëÿéíà (William Klein) ïðîâîäèòñÿ â ãàëåðåå «Foam».  ýòîò ïåðèîä âñ¸ çäàíèå ãàëåðåè çàïîëíåíî óäèâèòåëüíûìè ôîòîðàáîòàìè, ÿâëÿþùèìèñÿ ÷àñòüþ åäèíîãî öåëîãî ïðîèçâåäåíèé ìàñòåðà, îñâåùàÿ ìíîãîãðàííóþ òâîð÷åñêóþ äåÿòåëüíîñòü õóäîæíèêà, êîòîðûé âïèñàë ñîáñòâåííóþ íåïîâòîðèìóþ ñòðàíèöó â èñòîðèþ ôîòîãðàôèè â êà÷åñòâå ìýòðà óëè÷íîé ôîòîãðàôèè, íî è îäíîãî èç ôàíòàñòè÷åñêèõ ôîòîãðàôîâ ìîäû. www.foam.org
Betterfly and better living
Åõñþðç 1945-2000: ÓõíáíôÞóåéò áíÜìåóá óå êéíïýìåíá üñéá Ìéá Ýêèåóç óôï ðëáßóéï ôçò 30çò ¸êèåóçò ôïõ Óõìâïõëßïõ ôçò Åõñþðçò "Åðéèõìßá ãéá Åëåõèåñßá. Ç ÔÝ÷íç óôçí Åõñþðç ìåôÜ ôï 1945" ðáñïõóéÜæåé öÝôïò ôï Ìáêåäïíéêü Ìïõóåßï Óýã÷ñïíçò ÔÝ÷íçò. Ç Ýêèåóç áðïôåëåß ìéá ðñþôç ðñïóðÜèåéá íá åéäùèåß ç ôÝ÷íç ìåôÜ ôï 1945 óå Ýíá ðáíåõñùðáúêü ðëáßóéï, åíþ ìÝóá áðü 12 èåìáôéêÝò åíüôçôåò äéåñåõíÜ ôéò ðñïôÜóåéò ôùí êáëëéôå÷íþí ãéá ôá éäáíéêÜ ôùí ïéêïõìåíéêþí áíèñùðßíùí äéêáéùìÜôùí, ôçò åëåõèåñßáò, ôçò éóüôçôáò êáé ôçò äçìïêñáôßáò. Óôü÷ïò ôçò Ýêèåóçò åßíáé íá ðáñïõóéáóôåß ç êáëëéôå÷íéêÞ ðáñáãùãÞ óå üëåò ôéò ðåñéï÷Ýò ôçò Åõñþðçò, ðñïóðåñíþíôáò ôïõò óôåñåüôõðïõò äéá÷ùñéóìïýò ôçò ôÝ÷íçò ìåôáîý ÁíáôïëÞò êáé Äýóçò Þ ÂïññÜ êáé Íüôïõ. Ìßá åíäéáöÝñïõóá ðñüôáóç ðïõ áîßæåé íá óçìåéþóåôå. Áðü ôéò 8 Öåâñïõáñßïõ ùò ôéò 6 Ìáßïõ 2014 www.mmca.org.gr
Europe 1945-2000: Encounters between shifting boundaries An exhibition in the context of the 30th Council of Europe Exhibition "The Desire for Freedom. Art in Europe since 1945" is presented, this year, by the Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art. This exhibition is a first effort to see art after 1945 in a pan-european context, the artists suggestions for the ideals of the ecumenical human rights of freedom, equality and democracy are investigated in thematics. The objective of the exhibition is to present the artistic production in all European areas, exceeding the stereotypes of dividing art between the East and the West, the North and the South. An interested proposition worthwhile noting. From February 8 to May 2014 www.mmca.org.gr
ÃñÜììáôá áðü ôï «Õðüãåéï» Méá óåéñÜ áíáóêáöþí óôçí áñ÷áßá Ìåèþíç, áðü ôï 2003 ìÝ÷ñé óÞìåñá Ý÷ïõí öÝñåé óôï öþò óçìáíôéêüôáôá åõñÞìáôá, ôá ïðïßá óôçí êõñéïëåîßá «îåäéðëþíïõí» ðôõ÷Ýò ôçò éóôïñßáò áõôÞò ôçò áêìáßáò ðüëçò. ¸íá áðü ôá åõñÞìáôá ìå ìåãÜëç áñ÷áéïëïãéêÞ óçìáóßá ðñïÝñ÷åôáé áðü ôï «Õðüãåéï», ìßá õðïóêáöÞ êáôáóêåõÞ, üðïõ âñÝèçêáí 191 åíåðßãñáöá áããåßá, ôá ðåñéóóüôåñá áðü áõôÜ ÷ñïíïëïãïýíôáé ôïí 8ï êáé 7ï áéþíá ð÷. Ç óðïõäáéüôçôá ôùí åõñçìÜôùí Ýãêåéôå óôï ãåãïíüò üôé áðü ôïí 8ï áéþíá ð÷, üôáí Üñ÷éóå íá ÷ñçóéìïðïéåßôáé ç áëöáâçôéêÞ ãñáöÞ óôïí Åëëáäéêü ÷þñï, õðÜñ÷ïõí åëÜ÷éóôåò åðéãñáöÝò êáé åðéãñáöéêÜ ôåêìÞñéá. Óõíåðþò ôá åíåðßãñáöá áããåßá ôçò Ìåèþíçò åßíáé ðñáãìáôéêÜ ðïëýôéìá. ÁõôÜ áêñéâþò ôá áããåßá ëïéðüí åêôßèåíôáé óôï Áñ÷áéïëïãéêü Ìïõóåßï ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò óå ìéá Ýêèåóç ìå îå÷ùñéóôü åíäéáöÝñïí ãéá ôïõò ëÜôñåéò ôïõ áñ÷áéïåëëçíéêïý ðïëéôéóìïý. Ìéá Ýêèåóç ðïõ èá äéáñêÝóåé ùò ôá ôÝëç Äåêåìâñßïõ 2014 www.amth.gr
Letter from the «Underground» A series of excavations in Ancient Methoni from 2003 to the present date, has brought to light very important artifacts, literally "unfolding" aspects in the history of this thriving city. One of the findings with the biggest archeological importance originates from the "Underground", a construction bellow the ground where 191 jars marked with inscriptions were found, most of which are dated back in the 8th and 7th century B.C.. The importance of these artifacts lies in the fact that since the 8th century, when the alphabet started to be used in Greece, there are very few inscriptions and epigraphic documents. As a consequence, Methoni inscribed jars are truly invaluable. These are precisely the jars exhibited in the Thessaloniki Archeological Museum, said exhibition is of great interest to all ancient Greek culture amateurs and it will last until the end of December 2014 www.amth.gr
Ïèñüìà èç «Ïîäâàëà» Åâðîïà 1945-2000: Âñòðå÷è ìåæäó ïîäâèæíûìè ãðàíèöàìè Âûñòàâêà â ðàìêàõ 30-îé Âûñòàâêè Ñîâåòà Åâðîïû «Ñòðåìëåíèå ê ñâîáîäå. Èñêóññòâî â Åâðîïå ïîñëå 1945 ãîäà» ïðåäñòàâëÿåò â ýòîì ãîäó Ìàêåäîíñêèé Ìóçåé Ñîâðåìåííîãî Èñêóññòâà. Âûñòàâêà ÿâëÿåòñÿ ïåðâîé ïîïûòêîé äåìîíñòðàöèè èñêóññòâà ïîñëå 1945 ãîäà â îáùååâðîïåéñêîì êîíòåêñòå, â òî âðåìÿ êàê â 12 òåìàòè÷åñêèõ ðàçäåëàõ ðàññìàòðèâàþòñÿ ïðåäëîæåíèÿ õóäîæíèêîâ ïî èäåàëàì âñåîáùèõ ïðàâ ÷åëîâåêà, ñâîáîäû, ðàâåíñòâà è äåìîêðàòèè. Öåëüþ âûñòàâêè ÿâëÿåòñÿ ïîêàç õóäîæåñòâåííûõ ðàáîò âî âñåõ ðåãèîíàõ Åâðîïû, ïðåâîñõîäÿ ñòåðåîòèïû ðàçäåëåíèÿ èñêóññòâà ìåæäó Âîñòîêîì è Çàïàäîì èëè Ñåâåðîì è Þãîì. Èíòåðåñíîå ïðåäëîæåíèå, êîòîðîå ñòîèò îòìåòèòü. Ñ 8 ôåâðàëÿ ïî 6 ìàÿ 2014 www.mmca.org.gr
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Ïðè ðàñêîïêàõ äðåâíåãî ãîðîäà Ìåòîíè, ñ 2003 ãîäà äî ñåãîäíÿøíåãî äíÿ, áûëè îáíàðóæåíû âàæíåéøèå íàõîäêè, êîòîðûå áóêâàëüíî ðàçâåðíóëè èçãèáû èñòîðèè ýòîãî ïðîöâåòàþùåãî ãîðîäà. Îäíà èç ðàñêîïîê ñ áîëüøèì àðõåîëîãè÷åñêèì çíà÷åíèåì îáíàðóæåíà â «Ïîäâàëå» - â ïîãðåáå, â êîòîðîì íàøëè 191 íàäïèñàííûé ñîñóä, áîëüøèíñòâî èç íèõ äàòèðóåòñÿ 8-ûì è 7-ûì âåêàìè äî Í.Ý. Âàæíîñòü ýòèõ ðàñêîïîê çàêëþ÷àåòñÿ â òîì, ÷òî ñ 8-ãî âåêà äî Í.Ý., êîãäà íà÷àëè èñïîëüçîâàòü àëôàâèòíóþ ïèñüìåííîñòü â Ãðåöèè ñóùåñòâóåò ìèíèìàëüíîå ÷èñëî íàäïèñåé è ýïèãðàôè÷åñêèõ ñâèäåòåëüñòâ. Ïîýòîìó íàäïèñàííûå âàçû Ìåòîíè ïðåäñòàâëÿþò äåéñòâèòåëüíóþ öåííîñòü. Èìåííî ýòè ñîñóäû âûñòàâëåíû â Àðõåîëîãè÷åñêîì ìóçåå Ñàëîíèê, íà âûñòàâêå ñ îñîáûì èíòåðåñîì äëÿ ëþáèòåëåé äðåâíåé öèâèëèçàöèè, íà âûñòàâêå, êîòîðàÿ ïðîäëèòñÿ äî êîíöà äåêàáðÿ 2014 ãîäà. www.amth.gr
MITT 2014 “ôáîßäéá êáé ôïõñéóìüò”
ÌÉÔÔ 2014 “International Travel & Tourism Exhibition” An exhibition with a considerable "specific gravity" for the Tourist Industry is the ÌÉÔÔ 2014 - Moscow International Travel & Tourism Exhibition, which will be held, this year, from March 19 to 22 in the exhibition area «IEC "Expocentre" in Moscow. Over 3.000 companies from 198 countries will participate and, according to the international press, this event welcomes over 80.000 visitors. The MITT International Exhibition is under the auspices of the Russian Ministry of Tourism in cooperation with the broader travel industry of the Russian Union, PATA, UNWTO. www.mitt.ru
MITT 2014 “Ïóòåøåñòâèÿ è òóðèçì”
Mßá Ýêèåóç ìå Ýíá ðïëý «åéäéêü âÜñïò» óôçí ôïõñéóôéêÞ âéïìç÷áíßá, ç äéåèíÞò Ýêèåóç ÌÉÔÔ 2014 "Ôáîßäéá êáé Ôïõñéóìüò", èá ðñáãìáôïðïéçèåß åöÝôïò áðü 19 Ýùò 22 Ìáñôßïõ óôïí åêèåóéáêü ÷þñï IEC "Expocentre" óôçí Ìüó÷á. ÓõììåôÝ÷ïõí ðÜíù áðü 3.000 åôáéñåßåò áðü 198 ÷þñåò êáé óýìöùíá ìå ôïí äéåèíÞ ôýðï, êÜèå ÷ñüíï ôçí Ýêèåóç ôçí ðáñáêïëïõèïýí ðÜíù áðü 80.000 Üôïìá Ç äéåèíÞò Ýêèåóç MITT åßíáé õðü ôçí áéãßäá ôïõ Ñùóéêïý õðïõñãåßïõ ôïõñéóìïý ìå ôçí óõíåñãáóßá ôçò åõñýôåñçò ôáîéäéùôéêÞò âéïìç÷áíßáò ôçò ÑùóéêÞò ¸íùóçò, PATA, UNWTO. www.mitt.ru
Âûñòàâêà èñêëþ÷èòåëüíî îñîáîãî âåñà â èíäóñòðèè òóðèçìà Ìåæäóíàðîäíàÿ âûñòàâêà MITT 2014 «Ïóòåøåñòâèÿ è òóðèçì» - ñîñòîèòñÿ â ýòîì ãîäó ñ 19 ïî 22 ìàðòà â âûñòàâî÷íîì çàëå ÌÂÖ «Ýêñïîöåíòð» â Ìîñêâå. Ó÷àñòâóåò áîëåå 3000 êîìïàíèé èç 198 ñòðàí è ñîãëàñíî ìåæäóíàðîäíîé ïðåññå êàæäûé ãîä âûñòàâêó ïîñåùàåò áîëåå 80.000 ÷åëîâåê. Ìåæäóíàðîäíàÿ âûñòàâêà MITT ïðîâîäèòñÿ ïîä ýãèäîé Ðîññèéñêîãî Ìèíèñòåðñòâà òóðèçìà â ñîòðóäíè÷åñòâå ñ îáøèðíîé èíäóñòðèåé òóðèçìà Ðîññèéñêîãî Ñîþçà, PATA, UNWTO. www.mitt.ru
Primavera sound 2014 Ãéá áêüìá ìéá ÷ñïíéÜ óôï “Parc Dee Forum” óôç Âáñêåëþíç áðü ôéò 29 ùò ôéò 31 ÌáÀïõ, ìåñéêÜ áðü ôá ìåãáëýôåñá ìïõóéêÜ óõãêñïôÞìáôá åðß óêçíÞò. Neutral Milk Hotel, Pixies, Arcade Five êáé ó÷åäüí üëç áöñüêñåìá ôùí ìïõóéêþí ôùí ìåãÜëùí óõãêñïôçìÜôùí ðïõ èá âñßóêïíôáé óå ðåñéïäåßá áõôü ôï êáëïêáßñé, èá âñßóêïíôáé åäþ. www.primaverasound.com
For one more year at Parc Dee Forum in Barcelona from 29 to 31 May. Some of the biggest music bands on stage. Neutral Hotel, Pixies, Arcade Five and almost all top musicians from famous bands that will be on tour this summer. www.primaverasound.com
Åù¸ îäèí ãîä â Parc Dee Forum â Áàðñåëîíå ñ 29 ïî 31 ìàÿ. Íà ñöåíå âûñòóïèò íåñêîëüêî èç êðóïíåéøèõ ìóçûêàëüíûõ êîëëåêòèâîâ. «Neutral Milk Hotel», «Pixies», «Arcade Five» è ïî÷òè âñå ñëèâêè ìóçûêàëüíîé áîãåìû, ìóçûêàíòû èç çíàìåíèòûõ ìóçûêàëüíûõ êîëëåêòèâîâ ñîâåðøàò ãàñòðîëè ýòèì ëåòîì. www.primaverasound.com
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
Èåóóáëïíßêç ÅõñùðáúêÞ Ðñùôåýïõóá Íåïëáßáò 2014
Ìéá óðïõäáßá äéïñãÜíùóç, Ýíá éäéáßôåñï project ãéá ìéá ðüëç ðïõ ðÜíôá ðÝñáóå ôéò åîåôÜóåéò ìå Üñéóôá, ïðüôå êëÞèçêå íá áíáëÜâåé ìéá óçìáíôéêÞ äéïñãÜíùóç óå ðáíåõñùðáúêü Þ êáé ðáãêüóìéï åðßðåäï. 44 betterfly magazine
Thessaloniki European Youth Capital 2014 A huge event and special project for a city that has always passed with flying colours when called on to organise important events at the European and international level.
Ñàëîíèêè Ìîëîäåæíàÿ Ñòîëèöà Åâðîïû 2014 zèòóë ìîëîäåæíîé ñòîëèöû ýòî áîëüøîå ñîáûòèå, îñîáûé ïðîåêò äëÿ ãîðîäà, êîòîðûé âñåãäà ñäàâàë ñâîè «ýêçàìåíû» ñ îòëè÷èåì, êîãäà åìó áûëî ïðåäëîæåíî îðãàíèçîâàòü êðóïíûå ìåðîïðèÿòèÿ íà åâðîïåéñêîì èëè ãëîáàëüíîì óðîâíå.
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
Óôéò 18 Íïåìâñßïõ 2011, áðïíåìÞèçêå óôçí ðüëç ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò ï ôßôëïò ôçò "ÅõñùðáúêÞò Ðñùôåýïõóáò Íåïëáßáò ãéá ôï 2014". Ï èåóìüò "ÅõñùðáúêÞ Ðñùôåýïõóá Íåïëáßáò" åßíáé Ýíáò ôßôëïò ï ïðïßïò áðïíÝìåôáé ãéá Ýíá ÷ñüíï óå ìßá ÅõñùðáúêÞ ðüëç, ìéá ðüëç ðïõ ðáñïõóéÜæåé Ýíá ïëïêëçñùìÝíï ðñüãñáììá ðïëýðëåõñùí äñÜóåùí, êáéíïôüìùí éäåþí êáé ðñïôÜóåùí ðïõ áöïñïýí ôçí íåïëáßá óå ôïðéêü, åèíéêü áëëÜ êáé åõñùðáúêü åðßðåäï. Ç ðñùôïâïõëßá ôçò "ÅõñùðáúêÞò Ðñùôåýïõóáò Íåïëáßáò" åíèáññýíåé ôçí åöáñìïãÞ «öñÝóêùí» éäåþí êáé ðñïãñáììÜôùí, óôï÷åýïíôáò âáóéêÜ óôçí ðïëõåðßðåäç óõììåôï÷Þ ôùí íÝùí áíèñþðùí óôçí êïéíùíßá, åíþ óõíÜìá åðéäéþêåé íá ðáñïõóéÜóåé Ýíá ðñüôõðï ìïíôÝëï ãéá ôçí ðáñáðÜíù áíÜðôõîç ðïëéôéêþí ðïõ áöïñïýí ôç íåïëáßá. ÌÝóá áðü Ýíá óõãêåñáóìü äåäïìÝíùí êáé åöáñìïãþí óå ìéá óåéñÜ Åõñùðáúêïýò ÄÞìïõò ðïõ åßôå Ý÷ïõí êÜíåé óçìáíôéêÜ âÞìáôá ó áõôÞ ôçí êáôåýèõíóç, åßôå ÷ñçóéìïðïéïýíôáé ðéëïôéêÜ, åîáñãõñþíïíôáò ìéá éäéáßôåñç áíôßëçøç, ðïõ ôïõò êáèéóôÜ ðñùôïðüñïõò ó´ áõôÞ ôçí êáôåýèõíóç. Ç éäéáéôåñüôçôá áõôÞò ôçò ðñùôïâïõëßáò Ýãêåéôáé óôï üôé äåí ÷ñçìáôïäïôåß óå êáíÝíá óôÜäéï Ýñãá êáôáóêåõÞò Þ õðïäïìÞò, áëëÜ õðïóôçñßæåé
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On 18 November 2011 Thessaloniki was awarded the title of European Youth Capital 2014. This is a title that is awarded for a year to a selected European city, a city that can present a wide-ranging programme of multifaceted activities, as well as innovative ideas and proposals concerning youth at the local, national and European level. The European Youth Capital initiative encourages the implementation of 'fresh' ideas and programmes, aiming mainly at the multilevel participation of young people in society, while at the same time aspiring to present a model for the further development of policies concerning youth by joining together information and applications from a number of European municipalities that have either taken huge steps in this direction or are still at the pilot stage, thus gaining a new outlook on things which makes them pioneers in this area. The uniqueness of this initiative lies in the fact that it does not at any stage finance construction or infrastructure works, but supports a specific programme that places emphasis on and promotes the needs, ideas and dreams of young people. The first European Youth Capital was Rotterdam in 2009, which was followed by Torino in
18 íîÿáðÿ 2011 ãîäà, ãîðîäó Ñàëîíèêè áûë ïðèñóæäåí òèòóë "Ìîëîäåæíîé ñòîëèöû Åâðîïû" íà 2014 ãîä. Ýòî ïðîåêò â ðàìêàõ êîòîðîãî òèòóë "ìîëîäåæíîé ñòîëèöû" ïðèñóæäàåòñÿ îäíîìó èç åâðîïåéñêèõ ãîðîäîâ íà îäèí ãîä, â òå÷åíèå êîòîðîãî ãîðîä ïðîäåìîíñòðèðóåò ÷åðåç êîìïëåêñíûå ïðîãðàììû ìíîãîñòîðîííèõ àêöèé è ìåðîïðèÿòèé, èííîâàöèîííûõ ïðîåêòîâ è èäåé, ñâîþ ìîëîäåæíóþ, êóëüòóðíóþ, ñîöèàëüíóþ, íàïðàâëåííîñòü íà ìåñòíîì, íàöèîíàëüíîì è åâðîïåéñêîì óðîâíå. Èíèöèàòèâà «Ìîëîä¸æíîé ñòîëèöû Åâðîïû» ïîîùðÿåò âíåäðåíèå íîâûõ èäåé è èííîâàöèîííûõ ïðîåêòîâ ñ ó÷àñòèåì ìîëîäûõ ëþäåé íà âñåõ óðîâíÿõ, è îäíîâðåìåííî, ñòðåìèòñÿ ïðåäñòàâèòü ìîäåëü äëÿ ðàçâèòèÿ ìîëîäåæíîé ïîëèòèêè ñ ó÷åòîì ðàçëè÷íûõ ôàêòîðîâ è ïðèëîæåíèé, â ðÿäå åâðîïåéñêèõ ãîðîäîâ, êîòîðûå ëèáî ïðåäïðèíÿëè çíà÷èòåëüíûå øàãè â ýòîì íàïðàâëåíèè, ëèáî âíåäðÿþò èííîâàöèîííûå ïðîåêòû ñ òàêèì óñïåõîì, ÷òî äåëàåò èõ ïèîíåðàìè â ýòîé îáëàñòè. Îñîáåííîñòü ýòîé èíèöèàòèâû çàêëþ÷àåòñÿ â òîì, ÷òî â å¸ ðàìêàõ íå
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
Ýíá óõãêåêñéìÝíï ðñüãñáììá ðïõ äßíåé Ýìöáóç êáé ðñïùèåß ôéò áíÜãêåò, ôéò éäÝåò êáé ôá üíåéñá ôçò íåïëáßáò. Ç ðñþôç "ÅõñùðáúêÞ Ðñùôåýïõóá Íåïëáßáò" Þôáí ôï Ñüôåñíôáì ôï 2009, áêïëïýèçóå ôï Ôïñßíï ôï 2010, ç ÁìâÝñóá ôï 2011, ç ÌðñÜãêá óôçí Ðïñôïãáëßá ôï 2012 êáé ôï ÌÜñéìðïñ ôï 2013. Ç ðüëç ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò êáôÝêôçóå ôïí ôßôëï ôçò"ÅõñùðáúêÞò Ðñùôåýïõóáò Íåïëáßáò" ìÝóá áðü ìéá äéáäéêáóßá ðïõ ðåñéåëÜìâáíå ôçí ðáñïõóßáóç åíüò ðñïãñÜììáôïò õðïøçöéüôçôáò, óôç óýíôáîç ôïõ ïðïßïõ óõíåéóÝöåñáí ðåñéóóüôåñïé áðü 800 åèåëïíôÝò êáé 44 ïñãáíþóåéò. Áðü ôï ÌÜñôéï Ýùò ôïí Áðñßëéï ôïõ 2011 ïé íÝïé êáé ïé íÝåò ôçò ðüëçò, ìáæß ìå åèåëïíôÝò üëùí ôùí çëéêéþí, óõììåôåß÷áí óå ðåéñáìáôéêÝò äñáóôçñéüôçôåò êáé äçìéïõñãéêÝò óõíáíôÞóåéò, áðü ôéò ïðïßåò ðñïÝêõøáí ìéá óåéñÜ ðñïôÜóåéò, ðïõ ðëáéóßùóáí ôï ðñüãñáììá äñáóôçñéïôÞôùí ôïõ öáêÝëïõ ôçò õðïøçöéüôçôáò ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò ãéá ôïí ôßôëï ôçò “ÅõñùðáúêÞò Ðñùôåýïõóáò Íåïëáßáò 2014”. Ôï áîéïóçìåßùôï äå Þôáí, üôé ãéá ðñþôç öïñÜ óôçí éóôïñßá áõôÞò ôçò ðüëçò, ôüóïé íÝïé Üíèñùðïé óõíåñãÜóôçêáí ìå óêïðü íá ó÷åäéÜóïõí ìåëëïíôéêÝò äñÜóåéò êáé åêäçëþóåéò, ðïõ áöïñïýí ôç íåïëáßá ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò êáé ïëüêëçñçò ôçò Åõñþðçò îåðåñíþíôáò óôå-
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2010, Antwerp in 2011, Braga, Portugal, in 2012 and Maribor in 2013. The city of Thessaloniki won the title of European Youth Capital through a process involving the presentation of a candidacy programme, which was prepared with the help of over 800 volunteers and 44 organisations. From March to April 2011 the young people of the city, along with volunteers of all ages, participated in experimental activities and creative meetings which resulted in a series of proposals that formed the framework of the activity programme included in Thessaloniki's candidacy dossier for the European Youth Capital 2014. The most remarkable of all was that for the first time in the history of this city so many young people set aside all their political and ideological differences and worked together to plan future actions and events concerning the youth of Thessaloniki and Europe, thus tearing down all walls that may have existed between
èä¸ò ôèíàíñèðîâàíèå ñòðîèòåëüñòâà êàêèõ-ëèáî ïðîåêòîâ èëè îáúåêòîâ èíôðàñòðóêòóðû íà ëþáîì ýòàïå, íî íàïðàâëåíà íà ïîääåðæêó îïðåäåëåííîé ïðîãðàììû, êîòîðàÿ ïîä÷åðêèâàåò è ïðîäâèãàåò ïîòðåáíîñòè, âèäåíèå, ìîòèâàöèè, èäåè, òî÷êè çðåíèÿ è ìå÷òû ìîëîäåæè. Ïåðâîé "Ìîëîäåæíîé ñòîëèöåé Åâðîïû" áûë Ðîòòåðäàì â 2009 ãîäó, çàòåì Òóðèí â 2010 ãîäó, Àíòâåðïåí â 2011 ãîäó, Áðàãà â Ïîðòóãàëèè â 2012 ãîäó è Ìàðèáîð â 2013 ãîäó. Ãîðîä Ñàëîíèêè çàâîåâàë òèòóë "Ìîëîäåæíîé ñòîëèöåé Åâðîïû" â ðàìêàõ ïðîöåññà, âêëþ÷àþùåãî ïðåçåíòàöèþ ïðèêëàäíîé ïðîãðàììû ñâîåé êàíäèäàòóðû, â ðàçðàáîòêó êîòîðîé ó÷àñòâîâàëî áîëåå 800 âîëîíòåðîâ è 44 îðãàíèçàöèé. Ñ ìàðòà ïî àïðåëü 2011 ãîäà, ïî÷òè âñÿ ìîëîäåæü ãîðîäà (þíîøè è äåâóøêè), íàðÿäó ñ âîëîíòåðàìè âñåõ âîçðàñòîâ, ó÷àñòâîâàëè â ðàçëè÷íûõ èííîâàöèîííûõ ìåðîïðèÿòèÿõ è
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
ãáíÜ êáé áñôçñéïóêëçñþóåéò, ðïëéôéêþí êáé éäåïëïãéêþí äéáöïñþí. Ïé 800 ðåñßðïõ åèåëïíôÝò ðïõ áíôéðñïóùðåýïõí 200 êáé ðëÝïí Üôõðåò ïìÜäåò, ÌÊÏ, ðáíåðéóôÞìéá êôë, áðïôÝëåóáí ôçí êéíçôÞñéá äýíáìç, ãéá ôçí ïõóéáóôéêÞ ðñïåôïéìáóßá ôïõ ðñïãñÜììáôïò ôçò õðïøçöéüôçôáò ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò. ¼ëåò ïé äñÜóåéò ðïõ åðéëÝ÷èçêáí êáé õéïèåôÞèçêáí áöïñïýí ôïõò íÝïõò ðïëßôåò ôçò ðüëçò, ôçò ÅëëÜäáò, áëëÜ êáé ôçò Åõñþðçò êáé ôïõ êüóìïõ. Ç Èåóóáëïíßêç, ìßá «æùíôáíÞ», äéáäñáóôéêÞ. ðïëõðëçèõóìéáêÞ ðüëç, åðéäéþêåé íá ãßíåé Åõñùðáúêü åðßêåíôñï êáéíïôïìßáò, êõøÝëç ðïëéôéóìïý êáé ðáñáäüóåùí, åðßêåíôñï óõììåôï÷Þò, áíÜðôõîçò, áëëÜ êáé ÷Üñáîçò ðïëéôéêþí áðü
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them. The 800 or so volunteers representing over 200 unofficial groups, NGOs, universities, etc. were the driving force behind the basic preparation of Thessaloniki's candidacy programme. All of the actions that were selected and adopted concern the young citizens of the city, Greece, Europe and the whole world. Thessaloniki is a lively, interactive and populous city that aims to become a European centre of innovation, a hub of culture and tradition, and a meeting point for participation, development and policy-making by the youth for the youth, the most creative cell of every social structure. During the year
òâîð÷åñêèõ âñòðå÷àõ, â ðåçóëüòàòå êîòîðûõ áûë ñôîðìèðîâàí ðÿä ïðåäëîæåíèé, êîòîðûå áûëè âêëþ÷åíû â ïðîãðàììíûå ìåðîïðèÿòèÿ è âîøëè â ñîñòàâ ôàéëà êàíäèäàòóðû ãîðîäà Ñàëîíèêè çà çâàíèå "Ìîëîäåæíîé ñòîëèöû Åâðîïû 2014 ãîäà». Ñòîèòü îñîáî îòìåòèòü, ÷òî âïåðâûå â èñòîðèè ýòîãî ãîðîäà, òàê ìíîãî ìîëîäûõ ëþäåé ñòàëè ðàáîòàòü âìåñòå ñ öåëüþ ïëàíèðîâàíèÿ áóäóùèõ ìîëîäåæíûõ àêöèé è ìåðîïðèÿòèé, èíòåðåñóþùèõ ìîëîäåæü íå òîëüêî ãîðîäà Ñàëîíèêè, íî è âñåé Åâðîïû, ïðåîäîëåâàÿ ðàçëè÷íûå ïðåäðàññóäêè, ïîëèòè÷åñêèå è èäåîëîãè÷åñêèå ðàçíîãëàñèÿ. Áîëåå 800 äîáðîâîëüöåâ, ïðåäñòàâëÿþùèõ áîëåå 200 íåôîðìàëüíûõ ãðóïï, ÍÏÎ, óíèâåðñèòåòû è äð., ñòàëè ãëàâíîé äâèæóùåé ñèëîé äëÿ ýôôåêòèâíîé ïîäãîòîâêè ïðîãðàììû êàíäèäàòóðû ãîðîäà Ñàëîíèêè. Âñå äåéñòâèÿ, êîòîðûå áûëè îòîáðàíû è ïðèíÿòû â ïðîãðàììó, ñâÿçàííûå ñ æèçíüþ ìîëîäûõ ãðàæäàí íå òîëüêî ãîðîäà Ñàëîíèêè èëè Ãðåöèè, íî è Åâðîïû è âñåãî ìèðà â öåëîì. Ñàëîíèêè ýòî "æèâîé" èíòåðàêòèâíûé, ìóëüòèêóëüòóðíûé ãîðîä, êîòîðûé ñòðåìèòñÿ ñòàòü åâðîïåéñêèì öåíòðîì èííîâàöèé, êóëüòóðû, òðàäèöèé, óäåëÿÿ îñîáîå âíèìàíèå ó÷àñòèþ, ðàçâèòèþ è âûðàáîòêå ïîëèòè÷åñêèõ ïðîãðàìì äëÿ ìîëîäåæè ñàìîé æå ìîëîäåæüþ, êîòîðàÿ
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
ôçí íåïëáßá, ãéá ôç ßäéá ôçí íåïëáßá. Ôïõ ðéï äçìéïõñãéêïý êýôôáñïõ êÜèå êïéíùíéêïý éóôïý. ÊáôÜ ôçí äéÜñêåéá ôïõ ÷ñüíïõ áíáðôýóóïíôáé ìéá óåéñÜ äñáóôçñéüôçôåò ðïõ óôçñßæïíôáé óôïõò ðáñáêÜôù èåìáôéêïýò Üîïíåò:
there will be a series of activities centred on the following themes:
! ÔÝ÷íåò êáé ðïëéôéóìüò ! Êáéíïôïìßá êáé ÍåáíéêÞ
! Arts and Culture ! Innovation and Youth
Åðé÷åéñçìáôéêüôçôá
Entrepreneurship
! Ðïëõðïëéôéóìéêüôçôá êáé
! Multiculturalism and Social
ÊïéíùíéêÞ Ýíôáîç
Integration
! Áóôéêü ôïðßï ! Êïéíùíßá ôùí ðïëéôþí êáé
! Urban Landscape ! Society of Citizens and Activism ! Sports and Health ! Green Development and the
Áêôéâéóìüò
! Áèëçôéóìüò êáé Õãåßá ! ÐñÜóéíç áíÜðôõîç êáé
Environment
ÐåñéâÜëëïí ! ÅîùóôñÝöåéá êáé Íåáíéêüò Ôïõñéóìüò ! Ïé ãåíéÝò åðéêïéíùíïýí ! Åèåëïíôéóìüò êáé Ìç ôõðéêÞ ìÜèçóç ! Óõììåôï÷Þ ôùí íÝùí óôá êïéíÜ
! Outward-Looking Approach and
Ç êýñéá èåìáôéêÞ ôþñá ôïõ èåóìïý «Èåóóáëïíßêç- ÅõñùðáúêÞ Ðñùôåýïõóá Íåïëáßáò 2014» åßíáé ï «×ñüíïò. Ìå ôçí Ýííïéá ôïõ «×ñüíïõ». Ðñüêåéôáé ãéá ìéá ðïëõäéÜóôáôç èåìáôéêÞ åíüôçôá, üðïõ ðñïâÜë-
The main theme at this time of Thessaloniki European Youth Capital 2014 is “Time”, which focuses on the concept of time. This is a multidimensional theme presenting the history of the city with its rises and falls, as well as its role through
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Youth Tourism
! Communication between generations
! Volunteering and Non-Formal
ÿâëÿåòñÿ ñàìîé òâîð÷åñêîé ÷àñòüþ ëþáîãî îáùåñòâà.  òå÷åíèå ýòîãî ãîäà ðàçâåðòûâàåòñÿ ðÿä ìåðîïðèÿòèé ïî ñëåäóþùåé òåìàòèêå:
! Èñêóññòâî è êóëüòóðà ! Èííîâàöèé è ìîëîäåæíîå ïðåäïðèíèìàòåëüñòâî ! Ìóëüòèêóëüòóðàëèçì è ñîöèàëüíàÿ èíòåãðàöèÿ ! Ãîðîäñêîé ïåéçàæ ! Ãðàæäàíñêîå îáùåñòâî è àêòèâèçì ! Ñïîðò è çäîðîâüå ! «Çåëåíîå» ðàçâèòèå è îêðóæàþùàÿ ñðåäà ! Ýêñòðàâåðñèÿ è ìîëîä¸æíûé òóðèçì ! Îáùåíèå ìåæäó ïîêîëåíèÿìè ! Âîëîíòåðñòâî è íåôîðìàëüíîå îáó÷åíèå ! Ó÷àñòèå ìîëîäåæè â îáùåñòâåííîé æèçíè.
Learning
! Participation of youth in public life
«Âðåìÿ» ãëàâíûé òåìàòè÷åñêèé ðàçäåë, êîòîðîìó ñåé÷àñ ïîñâÿùåíû ìåðîïðèÿòèÿ â ðàìêàõ "Ñàëîíèêè - Ìîëîäåæíàÿ ñòîëèöà Åâðîïû 2014». "Âðåìÿ" ÿâëÿåòñÿ ìíîãîìåðíûì ïîíÿòèåì, îòîáðàæàþùèì èñòîðèþ ãîðîäà ñ ôëóêòóàöèÿìè è å¸ ðîëü â ýâîëþöèè ÞãîÂîñòî÷íîé Åâðîïû, ïåðñïåêòèâû íà áóäóùåå, êàñàþùèåñÿ ñîöèàëüíî-ïîëèòè÷åñêîãî
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ time in the development of SE Europe, and the future prospects of Thessaloniki's socio-political development, placing emphasis on the role of the youth in this direction and prospect. The implementation of the programme involves a broad range of activities based on four key principles: creation, participation, freedom of expression, solidarity. The process followed in order to win the title was a first for Thessaloniki, and it has already brought significant results for the city and its youth, from the very beginning. It has promoted and forged principles that constitute the quintessence of European Youth Capital 2014, these being solidarity and tolerance of the differences between young people; it has laid a strong foundation for cooperation and mutual understanding between people of different socioeconomic and cultural backgrounds, and has prepared the ground for adopting anti-systemic policies on youth at the national and European level. Most importantly, it has vigorously promoted the identity of our youth as active citizens with a strong say in the matters that concern their lives.
ëåôáé ç éóôïñßá ôçò ðüëçò ìå ôéò äéáêõìÜíóåéò ôçò êáé ï ñüëïò ôçò äéá÷ñïíéêÜ óôçí åîÝëéîç ôçò Í.Á Åõñþðçò, ïé ìåëëïíôéêÝò ðñïïðôéêÝò ðïõ áöïñïýí ôçí êïéíùíéêïðïëéôéêÞ áíÜðôõîç ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò, ìå Ýìöáóç ôïõ ñüëïõ ôùí íÝùí ó áõôÞí ôçí êáôåýèõíóç, ó áõôÞí ôçí ðñïïðôéêÞ. Ç õëïðïßçóç ôïõ ðñïãñÜììáôïò ðåñéëáìâÜíåé Ýíá åõñý öÜóìá äñáóôçñéïôÞôùí, ôï ïðïßï óôçñßæåôáé óå ôÝóóåñåéò óôï÷ïðïéçìÝíåò âáóéêÝò áñ÷Ýò: äçìéïõñãßá, óõììåôï÷Þ, åëåýèåñç Ýêöñáóç, áëëçëåããýç. Ç ðñùôüãíùñç ãéá ôá ÅëëçíéêÜ äåäïìÝíá äéáäéêáóßá ðïõ áêïëïõèÞèçêå ãéá ôç äéåêäßêçóç ôïõ ôßôëïõ, Ý÷åé åê ðñïïéìßïõ Þäç áðïöÝñåé åîáéñåôéêÜ óçìáíôéêÜ áðïôåëÝóìáôá ãéá ôçí ðüëç êáé ôç íåïëáßá ôçò. ÐñïùèÞèçêáí êáé óöõñçëáôÞèçêáí áîéáêÜ äåäïìÝíá ðïõ áðïôåëïýí ôçí ðåìðôïõóßá ôïõ èåóìïý «ÅõñùðáúêÞ Ðñùôåýïõóá Íåïëáßáò 2014», üðùò ç áëëçëåããýç êáé ç áíï÷Þ ôùí äéáöïñåôéêïôÞôùí ìåôáîý íÝùí, äïìÞèçêå óå óôÝñååò âÜóåéò ç óõíåñãáóßá êáé ç áëëçëïêáôáíüçóç áíèñþðùí îå÷ùñéóôïý êïéíùíéêïïéêïíïìéêïý êáé ðïëéôéóìéêïý õðüâáèñïõ êáé ôÝèçêáí ïé âÜóåéò ãéá ôçí õéïèÝôçóç áíôéóõóôçìéêþí ðïëéôéêþí ðïõ áöïñïýí ôïõò íÝïõò óå åèíéêü êáé ðáíåõñùðáúêü åðßðåäï.. Êáé áõôü åßíáé ðïëý âáóéêü. Åíéó÷ýèçêå ç ðñïþèçóç ôçò ôáõôüôçôáò ôùí íÝùí ùò åíåñãïß ðïëßôåò ìå éäéáßôåñï ëüãï óôçí äéáìüñöùóç ôùí äåäïìÝíùí ðïõ áöïñïýí ôçí æùÞ ôïõò ðéá.
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ðàçâèòèÿ ãîðîäà Ñàëîíèêè, ñ àêöåíòîì íà ðîëü ìîëîäåæè â ýòîì íàïðàâëåíèè. Ïðîãðàììà âêëþ÷àåò â ñåáÿ øèðîêèé ñïåêòð ìåðîïðèÿòèé, îñíîâàííûé íà ÷åòûðåõ ãëàâíûõ öåëåâûõ ïðèíöèïàõ: ñîçèäàíèå, ó÷àñòèå, ñâîáîäà âûðàæåíèÿ, ñîëèäàðíîñòü. Ýòà íåáûâàëàÿ äëÿ Ãðåöèè ïðîöåäóðà, êîòîðîé ðåøèëè ñëåäîâàòü îðãàíèçàòîðû ïðè çàâîåâàíèè ýòîãî çâàíèÿ, óæå ñ ñàìîãî íà÷àëà ïðèíåñëà âåñüìà çíà÷èòåëüíûå ïëîäû äëÿ ãîðîäà è ìîëîäåæè. Áûëè ðàñïðîñòðàíåíû è óêðåïëåíû èìåííî òå öåííîñòè, êîòîðûå ÿâëÿþòñÿ êâèíòýññåíöèåé è ëåæàò â îñíîâó ïðîãðàììû "Ìîëîäåæíàÿ ñòîëèöà Åâðîïû 2014», êàê âîñïèòàíèå ó ìîëîä¸æè ñîëèäàðíîñòè è òîëåðàíòíîñòè ñðåäè ñîöèàëüíîãî ðàçíîîáðàçèÿ, áûëî ïîñòðîåíî íà ïðî÷íîì ôóíäàìåíòå ñîòðóäíè÷åñòâî è âçàèìîïîíèìàíèå ëþäåé èç ðàçëè÷íîé ñîöèàëüíîýêîíîìè÷åñêîé è êóëüòóðíîé ñðåäû, è ïîëîæåíû îñíîâû äëÿ ïðèíÿòèÿ îòíîñèòåëüíî ìîëîä¸æè àíòèñèñòåìíûõ ïîëèòè÷åñêèõ ì å ð î ï ð è ÿ ò è é , ê à ê í à íàöèîíàëüíîì, òàê è íà åâðîïåéñêîì óðîâíå .. È ÷òî î÷åíü âàæíî, ìîëîäûå ëþäè óêðåïèëè ñâîè ïîçèöèè â êà÷åñòâå àêòèâíûõ ãðàæäàí, èãðàþùèõ îñîáóþ ðîëü â ôîðìèðîâàíèè óñëîâèé, âëèÿþùèõ óæå íà ñîáñòâåííóþ æèçíü â ñâî¸ì ãîðîäå.
Èåóóáëïíßêç
Ëåõêüò Ðýñãïò “Ï Ðýñãïò åß÷å ôç äéêÞ ôïõ éóôïñßá” Thessaloniki - White
Tower
“The tower had its own history”
Ñàëîíèêè
- Áåëàÿ Áàøíÿ “Áàøíÿ áûëà ñâîÿ èñòîðèÿ”
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
Ðñïöáíþò óôçí ðáãêüóìéá ãåùãñáößá õðÜñ÷ïõí ðüëåéò ìå îå÷ùñéóôÞ éóôïñéêÞ ðáñáêáôáèÞêç. ÁíáìöéóâÞôçôá ìßá áð áõôÝò åßíáé ç Èåóóáëïíßêç. Ó áõôÝò ôçò ðüëåéò óçìåéïëïãéêÜ Ýíá éóôïñéêü ìíçìåßï áðïôåëåß ôï äéá÷ñïíéêü «óÞìá êáôáôåèÝí» ôïõò, áíáëëïßùôï èáññåßò óôï ðÝñáóìá ôùí áéþíùí. Ãéá ôçí Èåóóáëïíßêç ôùí äåêÜäùí éóôïñéêþí áíáöïñþí, áíáìößâïëá ôï ìíçìåßï ðïõ ôáõôïðïéåßôáé ðåñéóóüôåñï ìáæß ôçò, áðïôåëåß åí äõíÜìåé ôçí «áé÷ìÞ ôïõ äüñáôïò» ôçò öõóéïãíùìßáò ôçò óôïí ÷ùñï÷ñüíï, åßíáé ï Ëåõêüò Ðýñãïò. Ï Ëåõêüò Ðýñãïò ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò åßíáé ôìÞìá ìéáò ãåíéêüôåñçò ï÷õñùìáôéêÞò êáôáóêåõÞò, Ýíáò ï÷õñùìáôéêüò ðýñãïò ôïõ 15ïõ áéþíá, ðïõ ÷ñçóéìïðïéÞèçêå óôç óõíÝ÷åéá óáí êáôÜëõìá öñïõñÜò ÃåíéôóÜñùí êáé áñãüôåñá áðïóðáóìáôéêÜ óáí öõëáêÞ èáíáôïðïéíéôþí. Áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÜ ðñüêåéôáé ãéá ìéá êõëéíäñéêÞ êáôáóêåõÞ ìå ýøïò 33,9 ì., ðåñßìåôñï ðïõ ðñïóäéïñßæåôáé óôá 70 ì. êáé äéÜìåôñï óôá 22,7 ì. ¸÷åé 6 ïñüöïõò, ðïõ åðéêïéíùíïýí ìå åóùôåñéêÞ óêÜëá ìÞêïõò 120 ì. ðïõ åëßóóåôáé êï÷ëéùôÜ êáé óå åðáöÞ ìå ôïí åîùôåñéêü ôïß÷ï.
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In the global geography it is most evident that there are cities with a distinguished past. Without a doubt Thessaloniki is one of them. In these cities there is one historic monument that constitutes a semantic “landmark”, which is invariable in the passage of time. For Thessaloniki, dozens of historic references identify a monument most characteristic of the city, a leading reference point of its profile in space and time: the white tower. The White Tower of Thessaloniki is part of a more general fortification o the 15th century, used later on as the accommodation of Janissaries and then, some parts of it as a prison for those with death sentences. The White Tower takes the form of a cylindrical drum with a height of 33,9 m., a perimeter of 70 m. And a diameter of 22,7 m. It is a 6-floor fort with an interior staircase 120 m long which twists and screw in contact with the outside wall.
Î÷åâèäíî, ÷òî â ìèðîâîé ãåîãðàôèè ñóùåñòâóþò ãîðîäà ñ íåçàóðÿäíûì èñòîðè÷åñêèì íàñëåäèåì. Îäíèì èç òàêèõ ãîðîäîâ, íåñîìíåííî, ÿâëÿåòñÿ Ñàëîíèêè.  ýòèõ ãîðîäàõ ñåìàíòè÷åñêè îäèí èñòîðè÷åñêèé ïàìÿòíèê ÿâëÿåòñÿ äèàõðîíè÷åñêèì «ôèðìåííûì çíàêîì», íåèçìåííûì íà ïðîòÿæåíèè ñòîëåòèé. Äëÿ Ñàëîíèê, óïîìÿíóòûõ â äåñÿòêàõ èñòîðè÷åñêèõ ñïðàâîê, ïàìÿòíèêîì, ê î ò î ð û é á î ë ü ø å â ñ å ã î èäåíòèôèöèðóåòñÿ ñ ãîðîäîì, ïîòåíöèàëüíî ïðåäñòàâëÿÿ ñîáîé «ãëàâíîå îðóæèå» âî âíåøíåì îáëèêå ãîðîäà â ïðîñòðàíñòâå è âî âðåìåíè, íåñîìíåííî, ÿâëÿåòñÿ Áåëàÿ Áàøíÿ. Áåëàÿ Áàøíÿ â Ñàëîíèêàõ, êðåïîñòíàÿ áàøíÿ 15-ãî âåêà, êîòîðàÿ âïîñëåäñòâèè áûëà èñïîëüçîâàíà äëÿ ðàçìåùåíèÿ ñòðàæè ÿíû÷àð, à çàòåì ÷àñòè÷íî â êà÷åñòâå òþðüìû äëÿ ñìåðòíèêîâ, ÿâëÿåòñÿ ÷àñòüþ îáùåé ôîðòèôèêàöèîííîé êîíñòðóêöèè. Ñ àðõèòåêòóðíîé òî÷êè çðåíèÿ áàøíÿ ïðåäñòàâëÿåò ñîáîé öèëèíäðè÷åñêóþ êîíñòðóêöèþ âûñîòîé 33,9 ì, ïåðèìåòð êîòîðûé 70 ìåòðîâ è äèàìåòð 22,7 ì. Áàøíÿ èìååò 6 ýòàæåé,
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
¸ôóé, óå êÜèå üñïöï õðÜñ÷åé ìéá êåíôñéêÞ êõêëéêÞ áßèïõóá ìå äéÜìåôñï ðåñßðïõ 8,5 ì, ìå ôçí ïðïßá êåíôñéêÞ áßèïõóá åðéêïéíùíïýí ìéá óåéñÜ ìéêñüôåñá ôåôñÜðëåõñá äùìÜôéá, áíïéãìÝíá óôï ðÜ÷ïò ôïõ åîùôåñéêïý ôïß÷ïõ. Ï 6ïò üñïöïò Ý÷åé ìüíïí ìßá êåíôñéêÞ áßèïõóá êé Ýîù áðü áõôÞí Ýíá äþìá ìå åîáéñåôéêÞ èÝá, ôï ôïðßï ãýñù áðü ôïí ðýñãï. Ìéá áíÜãëõöç áíáðáñÜóôáóç ôïõ áóôéêïý éóôïý ôçò ðüëçò, ôçò ðáñáëéáêÞò æþíçò, ôïõ ëéìáíéïý, ôïõ Èåñìáúêïý êüëðïõ ó÷åäüí óå üëç ôïõ ôçí Ýêôáóç, Ýùò åêåß, ðïõ ïé ãñáììÝò ôïõ åíþíïíôáé ìå ôéò á÷íÝò ãñáììÝò ôùí ïñéæüíôùí. Ç ýðáñîç áöïäåõôçñßùí, ôæáêéþí êáé êáðíáãùãþí ìÝóá óôï êôßñéï, äåß÷íåé üôé ï ðýñãïò ðñïïñéæüôáí êýñéá ãéá óôñáôéùôéêü êáôÜëõìá óôïí áñ÷éêü ó÷åäéáóìü ôïõ. Ó÷åôéêÜ ìå ôçí ïéêïäüìçóÞ ôïõ ôá éóôïñéêÜ óôïé÷åßá óõãêëßíïõí üôé áõôüò åíôÜóóåôáé óå ìéá óåéñÜ êáôáóêåõÝò ðïõ õëïðïéÞèçêáí óôçí ðüëç ìåôÜ ôçí êáôÜëçøÞ ôçò áðü ôïõò Ôïýñêïõò, üðùò ôï Åðôáðýñãéï, ï ðýñãïò Ôñéãùíßïõ êáé ìéá óåéñÜ íÝá ï÷õñùìáôéêÜ Ýñãá êáé ôåß÷ç. ÔÝëç 15ïõ, áñ÷Ýò 16ïõ áéþíá ðåñßðïõ. Óýìöùíá ìå ìßá åêäï÷Þ åðßóçò, ç ÷ñïíïëïãßá êáôáóêåõÞò ôïõ Ðýñãïõ ôïðïèåôåßôáé ðåñß ôï 1450-1470 êáé ðñüêåéôáé ãéá Ýíá áðü ôá ðéï ðñþéìá äåßãìáôá ïèùìáíéêÞò ï÷õñùìáôéêÞò. Êõñéüôåñç ðçãÞ ãéá ôï Ýôïò äçìéïõñãßáò ôïõ Ëåõêïý Ðýñãïõ, üðùò êáé íá Ý÷åé, ðáñáìÝíåé ìéá ìáñìÜñéíç åðéãñáöÞ ðïõ õðÞñ÷å óôçí ðüñôá åéóüäïõ ôïõ åîùôåñé-
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So, each floor has a central circular hall with about 8,5 m diameter which communicate with a series a smaller quadrangular rooms, opened in the thickness of the outer wall. The 6th floor has only one central room and on the outside a turret room with an excellent view to the landscape surrounding the tower, a representation in relief of the urban tissue of Thessaloniki, the waterfront, the port, the Thermaic Gulf to its full extent, till the point where the its lines are united with the pale lines of the horizon. The existence of toilets, chimneys and fume pipes inside the building shows that the tower was, initially and mainly, destined, to be a garrison accommodation. Regarding its erection, historical data converge that it is part of a series of constructions realized in the city flowing its occupation by the Turks, such as Eptapyrgio, Trigonio tower and a new series of fortification works and walls around the end of the 15th beginnings of the 16th century.
ñîåäèíåííûõ âíóòðåííåé ëåñòíèöåé äëèíîé 120 ì., êîòîðàÿ ñïèðàëåâèäíî èçâèâàåòñÿ, ñìûêàÿñü ñ íàðóæíîé ñòåíîé. Íà êàæäîì ýòàæå, òàêèì îáðàçîì, åñòü öåíòðàëüíûé êðóãîîáðàçíûé çàë äèàìåòðîì îêîëî 8,5 ìåòðîâ, ñ êîòîðûì ñîîáùàåòñÿ ðÿä íåáîëüøèõ ÷åòûðåõóãîëüíûõ êîìíàò, âûõîäÿùèõ â òîëùèíó íàðóæíîé ñòåíû. 6-îé ýòàæ èìååò òîëüêî îäèí ãëàâíûé çàë è çà åãî ïðåäåëàìè íàõîäèòñÿ ïëîùàäêà ñ âåëèêîëåïíûì âèäîì íà ïåéçàæ âîêðóã áàøíè. Âçîðó ãîñòåé ïðåäëàãàåòñÿ ðåëüåôíîå ïðåäñòàâëåíèå ãîðîäñêîé ñåòè, ïîáåðåæüÿ, ãàâàíè, çàëèâà Òåðìàèêîñ, ïî÷òè ïî âñåé ïðîòÿæ¸ííîñòè, äî òåõ ãðàíèö, ãäå ëèíèè ñîåäèíÿþòñÿ ñ åäâà ðàçëè÷èìûìè ëèíèÿìè ãîðèçîíòîâ. Ñóùåñòâîâàíèå óáîðíûõ êîìíàò, êàìèíîâ è äûìîõîäîâ âíóòðè çäàíèÿ ãîâîðèò î òîì, ÷òî áàøíÿ, â ïåðâóþ î÷åðåäü, â íà÷àëüíîé ïëàíèðîâêå áûëà ïðåäíàçíà÷åíà äëÿ ðàçìåùåíèÿ âîåííîãî ëàãåðÿ. Îòíîñèòåëüíî ïîñòðîéêè áàøíè èñòîðè÷åñêèå äàííûå ñõîäÿòñÿ íà òîì, ÷òî áàøíÿ ÿâëÿåòñÿ ÷àñòüþ òàêèõ êîíñòðóêöèé, êàê Åïòàïèðãèî (Ñåìü Áàøåí), áàøíÿ Òðèãîíèó (Òðåóãîëüíèêà), ðÿäà
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êïý ðåñéâüëïõ. Ìéá ìáñìÜñéíç åðéãñáöÞ ðïõ ðñþôïò åß÷å áíáöÝñåé óå ÷åéñüãñáöá éóôïñéêÜ äïêßìéá ôïõ, ï Ôïýñêïò ðåñéçãçôÞò, ÷ñïíïãñÜöïò êáé äéáíïïýìåíïò ÅâëéãéÜ ÔóåëåìðÞ. Ç åðéãñáöÞ áõôÞ äåí õðÜñ÷åé óÞìåñá, ëÝíå üôé óâÞóôçêå ðéèáíüí áðü ôïí ÓïõëôÜíï Áâäïýë ×áìßíô ôïí Â, åíþ Üëëïé õðïóôçñßæïõí üôé áõôü ìðïñåß êáé íá Ýãéíå áðü ôçí åëëçíéêÞ äéïßêçóç ôï 1937, ãéá Üãíùóôïõò ëüãïõò.. Óôçí åðéãñáöÞ äéáêñßíïíôáí ìå åõêñßíåéá óå áñáâéêÞ ãñáöÞ ôá ðáñáêÜôù. «ÊôéóèÝí êáôÜ äéáôáãÞ ôïõ ëÝïíôïò ôùí áíäñåßùí ÓïõëåúìÜí, Ýãéíå ï ëÝùí üëùí ôùí öñïõñßùí. Ìå ôá ëåïíôáñïðñüóùðá äñáêüíôåéá ðõñïâüëá ãýñù ôïõ, áñìüæåé íá ïíïìáóôåß ôï öñïýñéï áõôü ëéïíôÜñé ôùí ï÷õñþí. ¸ôïò 942 ôçò Åãßñáò ôïõ ÐñïöÞôïõ». Ìå Üëëá ëüãéá óýìöùíá ìå ôçí åðéãñáöÞ, ï ðýñãïò êôßóèçêå áðü ôïí ÓïõëåúìÜí ôïí ÌåãáëïðñåðÞ ôï Ýôïò 942 ôçò Åãßñáò, äçëáäÞ ôï 1535 ì×., áí êáé ç åðéãñáöÞ ðïëý ðéèáíüí íá
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According to another version, the construction date of the Tower is around 1450-1470 and it is one the earliest samples of ottoman fortifications. The main source regarding the year of construction of the White Tower was a marble inscription on the gate of the outer wall. This marble inscription was first mentioned in the manuscript historic essays of the Turkish traveler, chronographer and intellectual, Evliya Celebi. Such inscription does not exist nowadays. They say it was probably erased by Sultan Abdul Hamid II, however, other support that it could have been the work of the Greek com-manders in 1937 for unknown reasons. The inscription would clearly write the following in Arabic letters: «At the order of the Lion of the field, the Sultan the Solomon [Suleiman] of his age, the Tower of the Lion was made and completed. The lionfaced dra-
óêðåïëåíèé è ñòåí, êîòîðûå áûëè ïîñòðîåíû â ãîðîäå ïîñëå åãî çàâîåâàíèÿ òóðêàìè â êîíöå 15-ãî, â íà÷àëå 16-ãî âåêà. Òàêæå, ïî îäíîé èç âåðñèé, áàøíÿ áûëà ïîñòðîåíà â 14501470 ãîäàõ è ÿâëÿåòñÿ îäíèì èç ñàìûõ ðàííèõ ïðèìåðîâ Îñìàíñêîé ôîðòèôèêàöèè. Îñíîâíûì èñòî÷íèêîì îòíîñèòåëüíî ãîäà ñîçäàíèÿ Áåëîé Áàøíè îñòà¸òñÿ ìðàìîðíàÿ òàáëè÷êà ñ íàäïèñüþ ó âõîäíîé äâåðè íàðóæíîé îãðàäû. Ìðàìîðíàÿ íàäïèñü âïåðâûå óïîìèíàåòñÿ â èñòîðè÷åñêèõ ðóêîïèñíûõ î÷åðêàõ òóðåöêîãî ïóòåøåñòâåííèêà, ëåòîïèñöà è ó÷åíîãî Ýâëèÿ ×åëåáè. Ñåãîäíÿ íàäïèñü íå ñóùåñòâóåò. Ïî îäíîé èç âåðñèé, âåðîÿòíî, îíà áûëà ñò¸ðòà ñóëòàíîì Àáäóë Õàìèäîì Âòîðûì, â òî âðåìÿ êàê äðóãèå óòâåðæäàþò, ÷òî ýòî ìîæåò áûëî ñäåëàíî, ïî íåèçâåñòíûì ïðè÷èíàì, è
áíáöåñüôáí óôç ÷ñïíïëïãßá êáôáóêåõÞò ôïõ ðåñéâüëïõ êáé ü÷é ôïõ ßäéïõ ôïõ Ðýñãïõ. Ìéá áêüìç ÷ñïíïëïãßá ðïõ áíáöÝñåôáé åðßóçò, åßíáé êáé ôï 974 ôçò Åãßñáò, äçëáäÞ ôï 1566 ì×. Ó÷åôéêÜ ôþñá ìå ôïí áñ÷éôÝêôïíÜ ôïõ, Ý÷åé äéáôõðùèåß ìåôáîý Üëëùí üôé áõôüò èá ìðïñïýóå íá Þôáí ï ÌéìÜñ ÓéíÜí, ï äéÜóçìïò áñ÷éôÝêôïíáò ôïõ ÓïõëåúìÜí, ëüãù ôçò ïìïéüôçôáò ôçò êáôáóêåõÞò ìå áíÜëïãï ðýñãï óôç Áõëþíá ôçò Áëâáíßáò, ðïõ êôßóôçêå ôçí ßäéá ðåñßðïõ ðåñßïäï, ôç äåêáåôßá ôïõ 1530. Ç ðëçñïöïñßá áõôÞ üìùò åßíáé ó÷åôéêÜ áîéüðéóôç, ßóùò êáé íá áðïôåëåß ìéá áêüìç öÞìç, Ýôóé êé áëëéþò óõíïëéêÜ óôïí ÓéíÜí áðïäßäïíôáé åêáôïíôÜäåò Ýñãá. Óôçí áñ÷Þ ï Ðýñãïò ïíïìáæüôáí «Ðýñãïò ôïõ ËÝïíôïò». Áðü ôïí 17ï áéþíá êáé ìåôÜ ïíïìáæüôáí áíåðßóçìá «Ðýñãïò ôùí ÃåíéôóÜñùí» ìéá êáé ó áõôüí óôáèìåýåé ìÝ÷ñé êáé ôï 1826 ôï ìåãáëýôåñï ìÝñïò ôçò öñïõñÜò ôùí ÃåíéôóÜñùí ôçò
gon-guns that are face on all its sides render Lion Tower a suitable name for the tower. The date of this tower was 942 since the Hegira of the Messenger of the end of time” In other words, according to the inscription, the Tower was buit by Suleiman the Magnificent in the year 942 since the Hegira, namely, in 1535 AD, although the inscription was probably referring to the date of construction of the outer perimeter and not of the Tower itself. Another date which is mentioned is the year 974 since the Hegira, namely, 1566 AD. With regard to the architect of the Tower, it is said, among others, that he could be Mimar Sinan, the famous Architect of Suleiman, and this is due to the similarity of the construction with another tower in Vlore, Albania, built in about the same period of time, in the 1530s. However, this piece of
ïðàâèòåëüñòâîì Ãðåöèè â 1937 ãîäó.  íàäïèñè çàìåòíî ðàçëè÷àëàñü àðàáñêàÿ ãðàôèêà ñî ñëåäóþùèì ñîäåðæàíèåì: «Ïîñòðîåíî ïî óêàçó õðàáðîãî ëüâà Ñóëåéìàíà, êîòîðûé ñòàë ëüâîì âñåõ ôîðòîâ. Ñ ëüâèíûìè ëèöàìè è äðàêîíîâñêèìè ïóøêàìè âîêðóã, ýòà êðåïîñòü äîñòîéíà íàçûâàòüñÿ Ëüâîì ôîðòîâ. Ãîä 942 ïî õèäæðå Ïðîðîêà». Äðóãèìè ñëîâàìè, ñîãëàñíî íàäïèñè, áàøíÿ áûëà ïîñòðîåíà Ñóëåéìàíîì Âåëèêîëåïíûì â 942 ãîäó ïî õèäæðå, òî åñòü â 1535 ãîäó íàøåé ýðû. Õîòÿ, âïîëíå âåðîÿòíî, ÷òî ýòà íàäïèñü ÿâëÿåòñÿ ññûëêîé íà äàòó ñòðîèòåëüñòâà ñòåíû è íå ñàìîé áàøíè. Åùå îäíà äàòà, êîòîðàÿ óêàçûâàåòñÿ 974 ãîä ïî õèäæðå, òî åñòü 1566 ãîä íàøåé ýðû. À òåïåðü îòíîñèòåëüíî àðõèòåêòîðà. Ñðåäè ïðî÷èõ áûëî óïîìÿíóòî, ÷òî èì ìîã áûòü Ìèìàð Ñèíàí, çíàìåíèòûé àðõèòåêòîð Ñóëåéìàíà, èç-çà ñõîäñòâà
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
Èåóóáëïíßêçò, áëëÜ êáé ùò öõëáêÞ, ü÷é üìùò ãåíéêåõìÝíá, áëëÜ ìüíï óõìðëçñùìáôéêÜ, ãéá ôéò áíÜãêåò ôùí ßäéùí ôùí Ãåíßôóáñùí. Áîßæåé åäþ íá óçìåéùèåß ï ñüëïò ôùí Ãåíßôóáñùí óôçí ðüëç ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò, ìéá êáé óõíäÝïíôáé Üññçêôá ìå ôïí Ëåõêü Ðýñãï êáé ôçí éóôïñéêÞ äéáäñïìÞ ôïõ. ÁõôÞ ôçí ðåñßïäï ëïéðüí ïé Ãåíßôóáñïé åß÷áí ìåôáôñáðåß, áðü Ýíá åðßëåêôï óôñáôéùôéêü óþìá ðïõ Þôáí ó' Ýíá çìéáõôüíïìï êáé áíåîÝëåãêôï ôÜãìá êáé ìÝ÷ñé ôïí 18ï áéþíá åß÷å êõñéïëåêôéêÜ ìåôáëëá÷èåß, óå Ýíïðëç ôÜîç ðïõ ïõóéáóôéêÜ Þëåã÷å ôéò áãïñÝò ôùí ôñïößìùí êáé ôïõ äÝñìáôïò, ðïõëïýóå ðñïóôáóßá, õðïêáèéóôþíôáò ôçí åêôåëåóôéêÞ åîïõóßá ôçò ÏèùìáíéêÞò äéïßêçóçò. Ôçí óõãêåêñéìÝíç ÷ñïíéêÞ óõãêõñßá óôçí Èåóóáëïíßêç õðÜñ÷ïõí 6.000 ðåñßðïõ Ãåíßôóáñïé, óýìöùíá ìå ôïí ÃÜëëï éóôïñéêü Belley. Ç ðáñÜëïãç, êôçíþäçò âßá êáé ç áðëçóôßá ôïõò ðñïò ôïõò êáôïßêïõò ôçò ðüëçò, áíåîáñôÞôùò èñçóêåßáò êáé ç äçìéïõñãßá äéïéêçôéêþí äïìþí ðáñÜëëçëùí ìå ôï ïèùìáíéêü êñÜôïò Þôáí ìüíéìç ðëçãÞ óå êÜèå ÓïõëôÜíï. Ìéá êáé óôçí ïõóßá áõôüò ï åêöõëéóìÝíïò ñüëïò ôïõò ðáñáôçñåßôáé óå üëá ôá üñéá ôçò áõôïêñáôïñßáò.
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information is not very reliable, it could be a rumor, since, in any case, hundreds of works are attributed to Sinan. Originally, the Tower was called “Lion Tower”. Since the 17th century on, it was unofficially called “the Tower of Janissaries” since the greatest part of the Order of the Janissaries of Thessaloniki is accommodated there, It is also used as a prison, however not in general, just complementary to the needs of the Janissaries. It is worth mentioning at this point the role of the Janissaries in Thessaloniki, since they are intrinsically linked to the White tower and its historic course in time. During this period, Janissaries were converted, from a select garrison to a semiautonomous and uncontrolled Order, till the 18th century, it had completely mutated to an armed force which, in essence, would control the food and leather markers and would sell protection substituting for the executive power of the ottoman commanders. At that particular moment in time, there were about 6.000 Janissaries in Thessaloniki, according to the French historian, Belley.
êîíñòðóêöèè ñ àíàëîãè÷íîé áàøíåé âî Âëåðà, Àëáàíèÿ, ïîñòðîåííûé ïðèìåðíî â òî æå âðåìÿ, äåñÿòèëåòèå 1530. Îäíàêî, ýòà èíôîðìàöèÿ ÿâëÿåòñÿ îòíîñèòåëüíî äîñòîâåðíîé, è, âîçìîæíî, äàæå ÿâëÿåòñÿ ñëóõîì, ïîñêîëüêó òàê èëè èíà÷å Ñèíàíó, â î á ù å é ñ ë î æ í î ñ ò è , ïðèïèñûâàþòñÿ ñîòíè ñîîðóæåíèé. Èçíà÷àëüíî áàøíÿ íàçûâàëàñü «Áàøíÿ Ëüâîâ». Ñ 17-ãî âåêà íåîôèöèàëüíî íàçûâàëàñü «Áàøíÿ ßíû÷àð», òàê êàê â 1826 ãîäó â áàøíå ðàçìåñòèëàñü îñíîâíàÿ ÷àñòü ãàðíèçîíà ÿíû÷àð Ñàëîíèê. Áàøíÿ èñïîëüçîâàëàñü è â êà÷åñòâå òþðüìû, íå îáîáùåíî, à òîëüêî äîïîëíèòåëüíî, äëÿ ñîáñòâåííûõ íóæä ÿíû÷àð. Ñòîèò îòìåòèòü ðîëü ÿíû÷àð â Ñàëîíèêàõ. Ê òîìó æå îíè òåñíî ñâÿçàíû ñ Áåëîé Áàøíåé è å¸ èñòîðè÷åñêèì ìàðøðóòîì.  òîò ïåðèîä ÿíû÷àðû, èç ýëèòíîãî âîåííîãî ïîäðàçäåëåíèÿ, êîòîðîå ïîä÷èíÿëîñü ïîëóàâòîíîìíîìó è íåêîíòðîëèðóåìîìó áàòàëüîíó äî 18-ãî âåêà, áûëè áóêâàëüíî ïðåîáðàçîâàíû â âîîðóæåííûé ê ë à ñ ñ , â î ñ í î â í î ì , êîíòðîëèðóþùèé ðûíîê ïðîäóêòîâ è êîæè, çàíèìàþùèéñÿ âûìîãàòåëüñòâîì, çàìåùàÿ èñïîëíèòåëüíóþ âëàñòü Îñìàíñêîé àäìèíèñòðàöèè.  òîò êîíêðåòíûé ïåðèîä â Ñàëîíèêàõ íàõîäèëîñü îêîëî 6000 ÿíû÷àð, ñîãëàñíî ôðàíöóçñêîìó èñòîðèêó Belley.
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ ÔåëéêÜ óôéò 16 Éïõíßïõ 1826, ï Ìá÷ìïýô ï Â' äéáôÜæåé ôçí åîüíôùóç ôïõò êáé ìå åðßêåíôñï ôç Èåóóáëïíßêç ïñãáíþíåôáé ç âßáéç åîüíôùóç ôïõò óå üëç ôçí ÏèùìáíéêÞ åðéêñÜôåéá. Åäþ ðåñßðïõ 3.000 åðéâéþíïõí êáé óõëëáìâÜíïíôáé ìåôÜ áðü óêëçñÝò ðïëõÞìåñåò ìÜ÷åò ìå ôïí ôá÷ôéêü ïèùìáíéêü óôñáôü êáé ìåôáöÝñïíôáé óôïí Ðýñãï, üðïõ êé åêôåëïýíôáé ìáæéêÜ. ÌåôÜ ôçí áéìáôçñÞ äéÜëõóç ôïõ ôÜãìáôïò ôùí Ãåíßôóáñùí, ï Ðýñãïò áðïêôÜ ôï üíïìá «Kanli Kule», äçëáäÞ «Ðýñãïò ôïõ Áßìáôïò», ïíïìáóßá ðïõ äéáôçñÞèçêå ëüãù ôçò ìåôÝðåéôá ÷ñÞóçò ôïõ Ðýñãïõ óáí öõëáêÞ áëëÜ êáé óáí ôüðï åêôåëÝóåùí ãéá ðïëëÜ ÷ñüíéá, åêôåëÝóåùí ðïõ êïéíïðïéïýíôáí óôçí ðüëç ìå Ýíáí êáíïíéïâïëéóìü. Ôï åðßóçìï üíïìÜ ôïõ óáí «Ðýñãïò ôïõ ËÝï-
Their irrational, brutal violence and greediness towards the inhabitants of the city, regardless of religion, and the creation of administrative structures in parallel to the Ottoman state, was a permanent problem to every Sultan, since their degenerated role is observed throughout the empire. Finally, on June 16, 1826, Mahmoud the Second orders their execution and with Thessaloniki being the central city, their violent disappearance is organized throughout the Ottoman territory. About 3.000 survive and are arrested following battles held for many days with the regular ottoman
Áåññìûñëåííîå, æåñòîêîå íàñèëèå è àë÷íîñòü ïî îòíîøåíèþ ê æèòåëÿì ãîðîäà, íåçàâèñèìî îò âåðîèñïîâåäàíèÿ, è ñîçäàíèå àäìèíèñòðàòèâíûõ ñòðóêòóð ïàðàëëåëüíî ñ Îñìàíñêèì ãîñóäàðñòâîì áûëî ïîñòîÿííîé ðàíîé äëÿ êàæäîãî ñóëòàíà. Ê òîìó æå ïî ñóòè èõ âûðîæäàþùàÿñÿ ðîëü íàáëþäàëàñü íà òåððèòîðèè âñåé èìïåðèè. Íàêîíåö, 16 èþíÿ 1826, Ìàõìóä II äàë óêàç îá èõ èñòðåáëåíèè, è, ñ öåíòðîì â Ñàëîíèêàõ, áûëî îðãàíèçîâàíî èõ íàñèëüñòâåííîå èñòðåáëåíèå ïî âñåé Îñìàíñêîé òåððèòîðèè. Çäåñü âûæèâàåò îêîëî
íôïò» êáé ôï áíåðßóçìï óáí «Ðýñãïò ôïõ Áßìáôïò» óõíõðÞñ÷áí ìÝ÷ñé ôï 1891. Ôï óýã÷ñïíï üíïìÜ ôïõ ôï ðÞñå üôáí Ýíáò Åâñáßïò êñáôïýìåíïò, ï ÍáôÜí Ãêéíôéëß (Nathan Guidili), êáôáäéêáóìÝíïò ãéá Ýíá åñùôéêü Ýãêëçìá, ôïí áóâåóôþíåé, ôï 1891, ìå áíôÜëëáãìá ôç ìåßùóç ôçò ðïéíÞò ôïõ êáé Üñá ôçí áðåëåõèÝñùóç ôïõ. Ï ëüãïò ðïõ áðïöáóßóôçêå êÜôé ôÝôïéï, äåí åßíáé ãíùóôüò. Ìßá åêäï÷Þ áíáöÝñåé üôé Þôáí åðéèõìßá ôïõ ÓïõëôÜíïõ, ãéá íá öáíåß üôé êÜôé áëëÜæåé óôï Ïèùìáíéêü êñÜôïò ìåôÜ ôç ÓõíèÞêç ôïõ Áã. ÓôåöÜíïõ Þ ìå ôï ôÝëïò ôïõ ÔáíæéìÜô. Ôï «ÄéÜôáãìá ÔáíæéìÜô», ãíùóôü êáé ùò «×Üôé ×ïõìáãéïýí», åßíáé Ýíá ìåôáññõèìéóôéêü äéÜôáãìá ðïõ åêäüèçêå êáôÜ ôçí ðåñßïäï ôïõ óïõëôÜíïõ Áìðíôïýë Ìåôæßô, ðïëý óçìáíôéêü ó÷åôéêÜ ìå ìéá óåéñÜ êáéíïôüìåò ìåôáññõèìßóåéò Ðéï ðéèáíü åßíáé ç
army, they are transported to the Tower where they are massively executed. After the bloodshed dismantling of the Order of the Janissaries, the Tower is named “Kanli Kule”, that is “Blood Tower”, this name continued for many years when the Tower was used as a prison and as an execution site where executions would be communicated to the city by a cannon shot. The official name of the Tower was “Lion Tower” and the unofficial was “Blood Tower”, both these name existed in parallel up to 1891. It got its contemporary name when a Jewish prisoner Nathan Guidili, condemned for a love crime, whitewashes the
3000 ÷åëîâåê, êîòîðûõ áåðóò â ïëåí ïîñëå òÿæåëûõ ìíîãîäíåâíûõ áîåâ ñ ðåãóëÿðíîé îñìàíñêîé àðìèåé è ïåðåâîçÿò â Áàøíþ, ãäå èõ è êàçíÿò ìàññîâî. Ïîñëå êðîâàâîãî ðîñïóñêà îðäåíà ÿíû÷àð, áàøíÿ ïîëó÷àåò íàçâàíèå «Êàíëè Êóëå», òî åñòü «Áàøíÿ Êðîâè», íàçâàíèå, êîòîðîå ñîõðàíèëîñü èç-çà ïîñëåäóþùåãî èñïîëüçîâàíèÿ áàøíè â êà÷åñòâå òþðüìû è ìåñòà êàçíåé íà ïðîòÿæåíèè ìíîãèõ ëåò, êàçíåé, î êîòîðûõ ãîðîä èçâåùàëè ïóøå÷íûì çàëïîì. Îôèöèàëüíîå íàçâàíèå áàøíè áûëî «Áàøíÿ Ëüâà», à íåîôèöèàëüíîå «Áàøíÿ Êðîâè». Ýòè íàçâàíèÿ ñîñóùåñòâîâàëè äî 1891
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Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
áëëáãÞ ôïõ ïíüìáôïò íá óõíäÝåôáé ìå ôçí áðüöáóç ãéá ôçí ÷ñçóéìïðïßçóç ìüíï ôïõ Ãåíôß ÊïõëÝ, óáí åðßóçìç öõëáêÞ ôçò ðüëçò êáé ìéá óõíåéäçôÞ ðñïóðÜèåéá áðïóýíäåóçò ôïõ Ðýñãïõ áðü ôï áéìáôçñü ðáñåëèüí ôïõ. ÌåôÜ ôçí áðåëåõèÝñùóç ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò (1912), ôï ìíçìåßï ðåñéÞëèå óôï åëëçíéêü äçìüóéï êáé áðïôÝëåóå ôï óçìåßï áíáöïñÜò ìéáò óåéñÜò óçìáíôéêþí ãåãïíüôùí ðïõ óõíÝâçóáí óôçí ðüëç, ãåãïíüôá ðïëéôéêÜ, óôñáôéùôéêÜ, êáëëéôå÷íéêÜ, êïéíùíéêÜ êôë. Áðü ôçí èñéáìâåõôéêÞ ðáñÝëáóç ôïõ Åëëçíéêïý óôñáôïý ôï 1912, ôç óõãêÝíôñùóç ôùí ïðáäþí ôïõ êéíÞìáôïò ôçò ÅèíéêÞò ¢ìõíáò ôï 1916, ôá êáôáññéöèÝíôá ÆÝðåëéí êáôÜ ôç äéÜñêåéá ôïõ Á' Ðáãêïóìßïõ ÐïëÝìïõ, ôïí èßáóï íÜíùí ôçò Êùíóôáíôéíïýðïëçò ôïõ 1921, ôçí áíáâßùóç ôïõ Ðýñãïõ ùò öõëáêÞ Ôïýñêùí áé÷ìáëþôùí, ìåôÜ ôçí áðüâáóç óôç Óìýñíç êáôÜ ôç ÌéêñáóéáôéêÞ Åêóôñáôåßá, ôï ðñþôï ôñáì ôï 1927, ôç ãéïñôÞ ôïõ Ðñïóöõãéêïý Öïßíéêá ôï 1929, ìÝ÷ñé êáé ôç ÷ñçóéìïðïßçóÞ ôïõ áðü ôïõò Íáõôïðñïóêüðïõò ôï 1934. Ç âáöÞ ôïõ Ðýñãïõ ìå âáöÞ ðáñáëëáãÞò êáôÜ ôïí Â' Ðáãêüóìéï Ðüëåìï áðïôÝëåóå ìéá åðéðëÝïí óåëßäá óôéò ÷ñùìáôéêÝò áëëáãÝò ôïõ êôéñßïõ. ÁëëÜ êáé ðéèáíüôáôá ôïí Ýóùóå áðü ìéá ïëïêëçñùôéêÞ êáôáóôñïöÞ... Ôïí Á' Ðáãêüóìéï Ðüëåìï, ï Ëåõêüò Ðýñãïò óôÝãáæå ôï êÝíôñï äéáâéâÜ-
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Tower to reduce his sentence and be free. It is not known why such thing was decided. One version is that the Sultan wanted to show that the Ottoman state changes after the St Stefan Treaty or the end of Tanzimat. The “Tanzimat Decree”, also known as “Hatt-i humayun” is a post-reform decree issued during the period of Sultan Abdul Mejid, very important with regard to a series of innovative reforms. It is most probable that the change of the name is linked to the decision to use Yedi Kule, only, as the official prison of the city and try, consciously, to detach the Tower from its bloodshed past. Following the liberation of the city (1912), the monument became the property of the Greek Public Sector and became a point of reference for a series of important events taking place in the city, i.e. political, military, artistic, social, etc.: from the triumphant parade of the Greek Army in 1912, the gathering of the National Defense Movement in 1916, the Zepelins shot down during the First World War, the dwarfs' troop of Istanbul in 1921, the revival of the Tower as a prison for Turkish prisoners of war following debarkation in Izmir during the Asia Minor Campaign, the first tram in 1927, the celebration of the
ãîäà. Ñîâðåìåííîå íàçâàíèå áàøíÿ ïîëó÷èëà ïîñëå òîãî êàê Íàòàí Ãèíäèëè, çàêëþ÷åííûé åâðåé, îñóæä¸ííûé çà ïðåñòóïëåíèå íà ïî÷âå ñòðàñòè, ïîáåëèë å¸ â 1891 ãîäó, â îáìåí íà ñîêðàùåíèå ñðîêà íàêàçàíèÿ, à, ñëåäîâàòåëüíî, îñâîáîæäåíèå. Ïðè÷èíà ïðèíÿòèÿ òàêîãî ðåøåíèÿ íå èçâåñòíà. Îäíà èç âåðñèé ãîâîðèò î òîì, ÷òî ýòî áûëî æåëàíèå ñóëòàíà, äëÿ òîãî ÷òîáû ïîêàçàòü, ÷òî ÷òî-òî ìåíÿåòñÿ â Îñìàíñêîì ãîñóäàðñòâå ïîñëå Êîíâåíöèè Ñâ. Ñòåôàíà èëè ñ çàâåðøåíèåì Òàíçèìàòà. «Óêàç Òàíçèìàò», òàêæå èçâåñòíûé êàê «Õàòè Õóìàþí», ÿâëÿåòñÿ ðåôîðìàöèîííûì óêàçîì â ïåðèîä ñóëòàíà Àáäóë Ìåäæèäà, î÷åíü âàæíûé îòíîñèòåëüíî ðÿäà èííîâàöèîííûõ ðåôîðì. Ñêîðåå âñåãî, èçìåíåíèå íàçâàíèÿ ñâÿçàíî ñ ðåøåíèåì èñïîëüçîâàíèÿ òîëüêî Éåäè Êóëå â êà÷åñòâå îôèöèàëüíîé ãîðîäñêîé òþðüìû è ñ ñîçíàòåëüíîé ïîïûòêîé îòäåëèòü Áàøíþ èç êðîâàâîãî ïðîøëîãî. Ïîñëå îñâîáîæäåíèÿ ãîðîäà (1912), ïàìÿòíèê ïåðåø¸ë âî âëàäåíèå ãðå÷åñêîãî ãîñóäàðñòâà è ñòàë òî÷êîé îòñ÷åòà ñåðèè êðóïíûõ ñîáûòèé, êîòîðûå ïðîèçîøëè â ãîðîäå ïîëèòè÷åñêèõ, âîåííûõ, õóäîæåñòâåííûõ, ñîöèàëüíûõ è ò.ä. Îò òðèóìôàëüíîãî ïàðàäà Ãðå÷åñêîé Àðìèè â 1912 ãîäó, ñîáðàíèÿ ñòîðîííèêîâ Äâèæåíèÿ Íàöèîíàëüíîé Îáîðîíû â 1916 ãîäó, ñáèòûõ âî âðåìÿ Ïåðâîé ìèðîâîé âîéíû öåïåëëèíîâ, òðóïïû êàðëèêîâ Ñòàìáóëà â 1921 ãîäó, âîçðîæäåíèÿ áàøíè â êà÷åñòâå òþðüìû äëÿ òóðåöêèõ çàêëþ÷åííûõ, ïîñëå
óåùí ôùí ÓõììÜ÷ùí, åíþ ôï 1916 ÷ñçóéìïðïßçóáí Ýíáí üñïöü ôïõ ãéá ôç öýëáîç áñ÷áéïôÞôùí áðü áñ÷áéïëïãéêÝò åñãáóßåò, óôç æþíç åõèýíçò ôïõ âñåôáíéêïý åêóôñáôåõôéêïý óþìáôïò. Áðü ôï 1983 Ýùò ôï 1985 ç Áñ÷áéïëïãéêÞ Õðçñåóßá óõíôÞñçóå êáé áíáóôÞëùóå ôï ìíçìåßï êáé ôï äéáìüñöùóå óå åêèåóéáêü ÷þñï. Áðü ôï 1985 Ýùò ôï 1994 ëåéôïýñãçóå ç ìüíéìç Ýêèåóç «Èåóóáëïíßêç: Éóôïñßá êáé ÔÝ÷íç». Ôï 1994, Üíïéîå ôï Ìïõóåßï Âõæáíôéíïý Ðïëéôéóìïý êáé ôá åêèÝìáôá Üñ÷éóáí íá ìåôáöÝñïíôáé óôáäéáêÜ ó' áõôü. Ôï 2001, ðáñïõóéÜóôçêå óôï Ëåõêü Ðýñãï ç Ýêèåóç «ÊáèçìåñéíÞ æùÞ óôï ÂõæÜíôéï», óôï ðëáßóéï ôïõ äéêôýïõ ôñéþí åêèÝóåùí ìå ôï ãåíéêü ôßôëï: «¿ñåò Âõæáíôßïõ, ¸ñãá êáé ÇìÝñåò óôï ÂõæÜíôéï». ÁíÞêåé äéïéêçôéêÜ óôï Ìïõóåßï Âõæáíôéíïý Ðïëéôéóìïý êé áðü ôï 2006 ëåéôïõñãåß ìüíéìá ùò Ìïõóåßï Ðüëçò ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò.
refugees' palm tree in 1929, till its use by the Navy Scouts in 1934. The camouflage paint of the Tower in the Second World War was one more page in the colors palette of the building. However, it most probably saved it from total destruction. During the First World War, the White Tower accommodated the transmissions center of the allies, but in 1916 one floor was used to guard antiquities originating from archeological works under the responsibility of the British military. Since 1983 and until 1985 the Archeological Service maintained and restored the monument and created an exhibition area. From 1985 to 1994 it accommodated the permanent exhibition “Thessaloniki: History and Art”. In 1994, the Byzantine Museum opened and the exhibits would progressively be transferred there. In Ôï 2001, the exhibition “Daily life in Byzantium” was presented in the White Tower in the framework of a cycle of three exhibitions entitled: “Byzantium Hours: Works and Days in Byzantium”. Administratively, it belongs to the Byzantine Museum and since 2006 it is the City Museum of Thessaloniki.
âûñàäêè â Ñìèðíå âî âðåìÿ Ìàëîàçèàòñêîé êàòàñòðîôû, ïåðâûé òðàìâàé â 1927 ãîäó, Ïðàçäíîâàíèå Áåæåíöåâ Ôèíèêàñà â 1929 ãîäó, äî åãî èñïîëüçîâàíèÿ ìîðñêèìè ñêàóòàìè â 1934 ãîäó. Îêðàñêà Áàøíè â öâåòà êàìóôëÿæà âî âðåìÿ Âòîðîé ìèðîâîé âîéíû áûëà äîïîëíèòåëüíîé ñòðàíèöåé â öâåòîâûõ èçìåíåíèÿõ çäàíèÿ, êîòîðàÿ, âåðîÿòíî, ñïàñëà áàøíþ îò ïîëíîé êàòàñòðîôû. Âî âðåìÿ Ïåðâîé ìèðîâîé âîéíû â Áåëîé Áàøíå ðàñïîëîæèëñÿ öåíòð ïåðåäà÷ Ñîþçíèêîâ, â òî âðåìÿ êàê â 1916 ãîäó îäèí ýòàæ áûë èñïîëüçîâàí äëÿ õðàíåíèÿ äðåâíîñòåé, íàéäåííûõ ïðè àðõåîëîãè÷åñêèõ ðàñêîïêàõ â ðàéîíå íàáëþäåíèÿ áðèòàíñêîãî ýêñïåäèöèîííîãî êîðïóñà. Ñ 1983 ïî 1985 Àðõåîëîãè÷åñêàÿ Ñëóæáà ïðîâåëà ðàáîòû ïî ñîõðàíåíèþ è âîññòàíîâëåíèþ ïàìÿòíèêà è ïðåîáðàçîâàëà åãî â âûñòàâî÷íîå ïîìåùåíèå. Ñ 1985 ïî 1994 çäåñü äåéñòâîâàëà ïîñòîÿííàÿ âûñòàâêà «Ñàëîíèêè: Èñòîðèÿ è èñêóññòâî».  1994 ãîäó îòêðûëñÿ Ìóçåé Âèçàíòèéñêîé Êóëüòóðû, è ýêñïîíàòû íà÷àëè ïîñòåïåííî ïåðåíîñèòüñÿ òóäà.  2001 ãîäó â Áåëîé Áàøíå áûëà ïðåäñòàâëåíà âûñòàâêà «Ïîâñåäíåâíàÿ æèçíü â Âèçàíòèè», â ðàìêàõ ñåòè òðåõ âûñòàâîê ïîä îáùèì íàçâàíèåì: «Âðåìÿ Âèçàíòèÿ, Òðóäû è Äíè Âèçàíòèÿ». Àäìèíèñòðàòèâíî îòíîñèòñÿ ê Ìóçåþ Âèçàíòèéñêîé Êóëüòóðû, à ñ 2006 ãîäà ôóíêöèîíèðóåò ïîñòîÿííî êàê Ãîðîäñêîé ìóçåé ãîðîäà Ñàëîíèêè.
ÏñåéíÞ ×áëêéäéêÞ
Ðïëëïß éó÷õñßæïíôáé üôé ç ×áëêéäéêÞ åßíáé ï áðüëõôïò êáëïêáéñéíüò ðñïïñéóìüò, üôé Ý÷åé áõôÞ ôçí ôáõôüôçôá ðïõ åßíáé ßóùò áäéáðñáãìÜôåõôç. Èá Þôáíå ìÜôáéï íá äéáöùíÞóåé êáíÝíáò ó áõôÞ ôçí äéáðßóôùóç. Ãéáôß üðùò êáé íá ôï êÜíïõìå áõôÞ åßíáé ç ìßá üøç ôïõ íïìßóìáôïò. Ðñïöáíþò êáé ç ðéï ðñïâåâëçìÝíç. Ç Üëëç ðïõ ñåáëéóôéêÜ êéíåßôáé óôéò ðéï áíÞëéåò ðëåõñÝò ôçò äçìïóéüôçôáò, ç ÷åéìåñéíÞ ×áëêéäéêÞ üðùò êáé ç öèéíïðùñéíÞ êáé ç áíïéîéÜôéêç, åßíáé áõôÞ ðïõ ìïíïðùëåß ôïýôç ôçí ðáñïõóßáóç, ó´ áõôü ôï ôåý÷ïò. Êáé ðéóôÝøôå ìå åßíáé ìéá öéëüäïîç ðñïóðÜèåéá áõôÞ ç êáôáãñáöÞ, ãéáôß áðþôåñï óêïðü Ý÷åé íá êáôáäåßîåé ôçí äéá÷ñïíéêüôçôá áõôïý ôïõ åõëïãçìÝíïõ ôüðïõ. Ôçí äéá÷ñïíéêüôçôÜ ôïõ óôïí ÷ùñï÷ñüíï. Êáé íá áðïêáôáóôÞóåé ôéò üðïéåò
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Many say that Chalkidiki is the absolute summer destination and see it as just that. It would be pointless to argue against this view. But however we see things, this is just one side of the story, and clearly the most spoken-of. The other side, which is not exactly in the limelight of publicity, is the winter side of Chalkidiki, and in a large part its autumn and spring side, and it is this side that we will be focusing on in this issue. Believe me, this is an ambitious effort and one that ultimately aims to present the timelessness of this blessed place, its timelessness in space and time, and to restore the balance that was lost when the tourism scale was tipped to the other Chalkidiki, the summer side of Chalkidiki. However, this Chalkidiki has many sides to it and this is clear to all those who
Ìíîãèå óòâåðæäàþò, ÷òî ïîëóîñòðîâ Õàëêèäèêè ÿâëÿåòñÿ àáñîëþòíûì íàïðàâëåíèåì äëÿ ëåòíåãî îòäûõà, ÷òî ïðåäíàçíà÷åí òîëüêî äëÿ ýòîãî, è âûâîä ýòîò íåîñïîðèì. Ñ ýòèì ñïîðèòü ïðîñòî áåñïîëåçíî. Íî ýòî âñåãî ëèøü îäíà ñòîðîíà ìåäàëè. Ñêîðåå âñåãî, ÷òî îíà áîëåå çàìåòíà è ïðåäñêàçóåìà. À äðóãàÿ, êîòîðàÿ ðåàëüíî ðàñïîëàãàåòñÿ â ñàìûõ òóñêëûõ îáëàñòÿõ ðåêëàìû ýòî çèìíèé ïîëóîñòðîâ Õàëêèäèêè, è ãëàâíûì îáðàçîì, îñåííèé è âåñåííèé, î ÷¸ì è áóäåò ðàññêàçàíî â ïðåçåíòàöèè â ýòîì íîìåðå. Ïîâåðüòå, ÷òî ýòî îïèñàíèå äîâîëüíî áëàãîðîäíàÿ ïîïûòêà -
Mountainous Chalkidiki Ãîðíàÿ Õàëêèäèêè
éóïññïðßåò ðïõ ãÝñíïõí åìöáíþò ôçí ðëÜóôéããá ôïõ ôïõñéóôéêïý åíäéáöÝñïíôïò óôçí Üëëç ×áëêéäéêÞ, ôçí ×áëêéäéêÞ ôïõ êáëïêáéñéïý. Ìéá ×áëêéäéêÞ üìùò ðïõ ç áõèåíôéêüôçôÜ ôçò èá ìðïñïýóå íá Þôáíå óçìåßï äéáðñáãìÜôåõóçò, äéáðñáãìÜôåõóçò ãé´ üëïõò üóïõò áãáðÜíå áõôüí ôïí ôüðï, üóïõò óÝâïíôáé ôéò ñßæåò ôïõ, ôçí éóôïñßá ôïõ, áëëÜ êáé ôéò öõóéêÝò ïìïñöéÝò ôïõ. Êåßìåíá êáé åéêüíåò ëïéðüí ãéá ôçí ×áëêéäéêÞ ôïõ ôïõñéóôéêïý «ìåóïíõ÷ôßïõ» óå ìéá ðñïóðÜèåéá íá âÜëïõìå ôá ðñÜãìáôá óôçí èÝóç ôïõò. ÔïõëÜ÷éóôïí íá ðñïóðáèÞóïõìå… Ðñþôïò óôáèìüò áõôïý ôïõ ïäïéðïñéêïý ç Áñíáßá. Ìéá ìáôáéüðïíç äéáäéêáóßá åßíáé íá ðñïóðáèÞóåéò íá ÷ùñÝóåéò
love this place and respect its roots, history and natural beauty. We present to you texts and pictures of the "midnight express" of Chalkidiki in an effort to put things in perspective. Let us at least try... Our first stop is Arnaia. It is completely pointless to try and fit the unque-stionable beauty of the natural landscape and traditional village in a few lines. I will briefly focus on the things that are bound to impress visitors to the area from the outset. Its architecture, for starters, and to a large degree its respect for its traditional residential structure. Here more than in any other urban centre of Chalkidiki, the modern Greek urban model of the 50s and 60s did not find any takers. Most of the
ïîòîìó ÷òî êîíå÷íîé öåëüþ ÿâëÿåòñÿ äåìîíñòðàöèÿ âå÷íîãî õàðàêòåðà ýòîé áëàãîñëîâåííîé ìåñòíîñòè, å¸ ïîñòîÿíñòâà âî âðåìåíè è ïðîñòðàíñòâå. À òàêæå âîññòàíîâëåíèå çàìåòíî ñ ì å ù ¸ í í î ã î á à ë à í ñ à òóðèñòè÷åñêîãî èíòåðåñà â ñòîðîíó èíîãî îáëèêà ïîëóîñòðîâà Õàëêèäèêè, ëåòíåãî ï-îâà Õàëêèäèêè. Íî ýòî ï-îâ Õàëêèäèêè, ïîäëèííîñòü êîòîðîãî ìîæåò áûòü îòïðàâíîé òî÷êîé ðàññêàçà äëÿ âñåõ òåõ, êòî ëþáèò ýòî ìåñòî, òåõ, êòî óâàæàåò åãî êîðíè, èñòîðèþ è êðàñîòó ïðèðîäû. Íó ÷òî æ, âàøåìó âíèìàíèþ ïðåäîñòàâëÿþòñÿ òåêñòû è ôîòîãðàôèè ï-îâà Õàëêèäèêè, òóðèñòè÷åñêîãî "ïîëíî÷íîãî
ÏñåéíÞ ×áëêéäéêÞ/ Mountainous Chalkidiki/ Ãîðíàÿ Õàëêèäèêè
óå ëßãåò ãñáììÝò åíüò êåéìÝíïõ, ôçí áäéáðñáãìÜôåõôç ïìïñöéÜ ôïõ ðåñéâÜëëïíôïò öõóéêïý ôïðßïõ, áëëÜ êáé ôïõ ßäéïõ ôïõ ðáñáäïóéáêïý ïéêéóìïý. ÅðéãñáììáôéêÜ ëïéðüí èá åóôéÜóù, óå üëá üóá, Ýôóé êé áëëéþò åê ðñïïéìßïõ èá åíôõðùóéÜóïõí ôïí åðéóêÝðôç ôçò. Êáô´ áñ÷Þí ç áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞ ôçò. Ó´ Ýíá ìåãÜëï âáèìü ï óåâáóìüò óôçí ïéêéóôéêÞ ðáñÜäïóç. Ãéáôß åäþ, ßóùò ðåñéóóüôåñï áðü ïðïéïäÞðïôå Üëëï áóôéêü êÝíôñï ôçò ×áëêéäéêÞò, ç íåïåëëçíéêÞ ïéêïäïìéêÞ áíôßëçøç ôùí äåêáåôéþí ôïõ 50 êáé ôïõ 60 äåí âñÞêå êáìéÜ áíôáðüêñéóç. ¸ôóé, ôá óðßôéá óôï óýíïëü ôïõò åßíáé êåñáìïóêåðÞ, Ý÷ïõí ãßíåé ðñïóåãìÝíåò áíáðáëáéþóåéò óå ìéá óåéñÜ üìïñöá áñ÷ïíôüóðéôá, ðïõ ç êáôáóêåõÞ ôïõò ÷ñïíïëïãåßôáé ãýñù óôá ôÝëç ôïõ 19ïõ áéþíá, êÜðïéá êáé óôéò áñ÷Ýò ôïõ 20ïõ.Tá óïêÜêéá äéáôÞñçóáí ôïí ðáñáäïóéáêü ÷áñáêôÞñá ôïõò êáé óõíôçñÞèçêáí ìå õëéêÜ ðïõ áíáäåéêíýïõí ôçí ãñáöéêüôçôÜ ôïõò, ðåëåêçôÞ ðÝôñá «åðß ôù óõíçèÝóôåñù». ¸ôóé ç ðåñéÞãçóç ó´ áõôÜ, åßíáé ðñïöáíþò ìéá åîáéñåôéêÞ ðñüôáóç ãéá ôïí åðéóêÝðôç ôçò Áñíáßáò. Ìå ìéá åðéâåâëçìÝíç èá Ýëåãá óôÜóç óôï Ëáïãñáöéêü Ìïõóåßï, ðïõ óôåãÜæåôáé óå Ýíá áðü ôá áñ÷ïíôüóðéôá ðïõ ðñïáíáöÝñèçêáí, óôï áñ÷ïíôéêü «ÃéáôñÜäéêï». ¸íá Ëáïãñáöéêü ìïõóåßï, ãåìÜôï ìíÞìåò áðü ôçí êáèçìåñéíüôçôá ôïõ êïíôéíïý ðáñåëèüíôïò óôçí ãýñù ðåñéï÷Þ. ÅðéâåâëçìÝíç èá Ýëåãá üôé åßíáé åðßóçò ìéá óôÜóç óôçí ðáëéÜ åêêëçóßá ôïõ Áãßïõ ÓôÝöáíïõ, ðïõ äåóðüæåé óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ, Ýôóé êé áëëéþò åßíáé ç ìåãáëýôåñç åêêëçóßá ðïõ èá óõíáíôÞóåé ï åðéóêÝðôçò óôï ïäïéðïñéêü ôïõ óå ïëüêëçñç ôçí ïñåéíÞ ×áëêéäéêÞ.
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houses have tile roofs, while a number of beautiful mansions dating back to the late 19th century, and some to the early 20th century, have been meticulously renovated. The alleys have kept their traditional character and have been maintained using materials that highlight their quaintness, dressed stone being the most common. A tour of these alleys is definitely recommended to visitors to Arnaia. A stop at the Folklore Museum is a must. The museum is housed in one of the mansions mentioned above, namely the Giatradiko mansion, and is filled with recollections of everyday life in the notsodistant past of the surrounding region. I would also say it is a must to visit the old church of Agios Stefanos, which towers over the area. After all, it is the largest church in the entire mountainous area of Chalkidiki. Another important site is the old school, which dates back to 1871 and currently houses the town hall. This, too, is an imposing building featuring local architecture. It certainly does look like a school and also constituted one of the largest buildings in the wider area. On the other hand, the Agia Paraskevi park, which has been turned into a multipurpose recreation venue in recent years, the Neropriono site with its two picturesque waterfalls, and the view from Profitis Ilias Hill all complete the puzzle of an interesting approach with the natural landscape surrounding Arnaia. The area also boasts an important culinary culture. It is well-known for its honey, its tsipouro with honey
ýêñïðåññà" ýòî ëèøü ïîïûòêà ðàññòàâèòü âåùè ïî ñâîèì ìåñòàì. Ïî êðàéíåé ìåðå, ïîñòàðàòüñÿ Ïåðâîé îñòàíîâêîé ýòîãî ïîõîäà ÿâëÿåòñÿ ïîñ. Àðíýÿ. Íåíóæíî ïîíàïðàñíó ïûòàòüñÿ âòèñíóòü â íåñêîëüêî ñóõèõ ñòðîê òåêñòà íåîñïîðèìóþ êðàñîòó îêðóæàþùåãî ïðèðîäíîãî ëàíäøàôòà è ñàìîãî ïîñåëåíèÿ â òðàäèöèîííîì ñòèëå. Ïîýòîìó õîòåëîñü áû ñîñðåäîòî÷èòüñÿ íà òîì, ÷òî âî âñÿêîì ñëó÷àå ñ ñàìîãî íà÷àëà íå îñòàâÿò ðàâíîäóøíûì ïîñåòèòåëÿ. Âî-ïåðâûõ, ýòî àðõèòåêòóðà ïîñ¸ëêà.  çíà÷èòåëüíîé ñòåïåíè, ýòî óâàæåíèå àðõèòåêòóðíûõ òðàäèöèé. Ïî÷åìó èìåííî çäåñü, âîçìîæíî, â áîëüøåé ñòåïåíè, ÷åì â ëþáîì äðóãîì íàñåë¸ííîì ïóíêòå íà ïîëóîñòðîâå Õàëêèäèêè, íîâîãðå÷åñêàÿ ñòðîèòåëüíàÿ êîíöåïöèÿ 50-òûõ è 60-òûõ ãîäîâ íå íàøëà ñâîåãî îòðàæåíèÿ. Òàêèì îáðàçîì, êðûøè áîëüøèíñòâà äîìîâ ïîêðûòû ÷åðåïèöåé, òùàòåëüíî îòðåñòàâðèðîâàíû íåñêîëüêî êðàñèâûõ îñîáíÿêîâ, ñòðîèòåëüñòâî êîòîðûõ äàòèðóåòñÿ êîíöîì IXX-ãî âåêà è íà÷àëîì XX-ãî. Óçêèå ïåðåóëêè ñîõðàíèëè ñâîé òðàäèöèîííûé õàðàêòåð, îòðåñòàâðèðîâàíû ìàòåðèàëàìè, ïîä÷¸ðêèâàþùèìè èõ æèâîïèñíîñòü: êàìåíü, îáò¸ñàííûé ñàìûì ðàñïðîñòðàíåííûì ñïîñîáîì. Òàêèì îáðàçîì, ïðîãóëêà ïî ýòèì ïåðåóëî÷êàì, î÷åâèäíî, ÿâëÿåòñÿ îòëè÷íûì ïðåäëîæåíèåì äëÿ ëþáîãî ïîñåòèòåëÿ Àðíýè. Êðîìå òîãî, îáÿçàòåëüíî ïîñåùåíèå ìåñòíîãî ýòíîãðàôè÷åñêîãî ìóçåÿ, êîòîðûé í à õ î ä è ò ñ ÿ â î ä í î ì è ç âûøåïåðå÷èñëåííûõ îñîáíÿêîâ, â îñîáíÿêå "ßòðàäèêî". Ýòíîãðàôè÷åñêîãî ìóçåÿ, ïîëíîãî âîñïîìèíàíèé èç ïîâñåäíåâíîé æèçíè íåäàâíåãî ïðîøëîãî áëèçëåæàùèõ îêðåñòíîñòåé. Íåîáõîäèìî ñäåëàòü îñòàíîâêó ó ñòàðîé öåðêâè Ñâ. Ñòåôàíà, êîòîðàÿ âåëè÷åñòâåííî âîçâûøàåòñÿ íàä âñåé ìåñòíîñòüþ; òàê èëè èíà÷å îíà ÿâëÿåòñÿ ñàìîé áîëüøîé öåðêîâüþ, êîòîðóþ âñòðåòèò íà ñâî¸ì ïóòè êàæäûé ïîñåòèòåëü ãîðíîé ÷àñòè ïîâà Õàëêèäèêè. È, êîíå÷íî, ñòàðàÿ øêîëà, äàòèðóåìàÿ 1871 ãîäîì, ãäå ñåé÷àñ íàõîäèòñÿ ìýðèÿ. Ýòî âíóøèòåëüíîå çäàíèå, îáðàçåö ìåñòíîé àðõèòåêòóðû, à êàê øêîëà, îíî áûëî îäíèì èç ñàìûõ áîëüøèõ çäàíèé â ýòîé ìåñòíîñòè. Ñ äðóãîé ñòîðîíû ïàðê Ñâÿòîé Ïàðàñêåâû, êîòîðûé â ïîñëåäíèå ãîäû ïðåâðàòèëñÿ â ïðåêðàñíîå ìåñòî îòäûõà; ýòî Âîäíàÿ Ïèëà ñ äâóìÿ æèâîïèñíûìè âîäîïàäàìè è âèä ñ õîëìà ïðîðîêà Èëèè - çàâåðøàþò óäèâèòåëüíóþ êàðòèíó ïðèðîäíûõ êðàñîò, â êîòîðûõ óòîïàåò ïîñ. Àðíýà. Êîíå÷íî æå, äàííàÿ ìåñòíîñòü îòëè÷àåòñÿ îñîáîé ãàñòðîíîìè÷åñêîé êóëüòóðîé: çíàìåíèòà îíà ïðîèçâîäèìûì çäåñü ìåäîì, ðàêè ñ ìåäîì (ìåäîâóõà), ãðèáàìè (çäåñü âñòðå÷àåòñÿ ðàçíîâèäíîñòü ãðèáîâ «àâãîìèëàêÿ»), âàðåíüÿìè, íåæíûìè ñëàñòÿìè, èñêëþ÷èòåëüíîé äåðåâåíñêîé ëàïøîé è ìàêàðîíàìè.
ÏñåéíÞ ×áëêéäéêÞ/ Mountainous Chalkidiki/ Ãîðíàÿ Õàëêèäèêè Êáé âÝâáéá ôï ðáëéü ó÷ïëåßï, ðïõ ÷ñïíïëïãåßôáé áðü ôï 1871 êáé óÞìåñá óôåãÜæåé ôï Äçìáñ÷åßï. Åßíáé êáé áõôü Ýíá åðéâëçôéêü êôßñéï íôüðéáò áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞò, óáí ó÷ïëåßï äå, õðÞñîå êáé áõôü áðü ôá ìåãáëýôåñá êôßóìáôá ôçò åõñýôåñçò ðåñéï÷Þò. Áðü ôçí Üëëç, ôï ðÜñêï ôçò Áãßáò ÐáñáóêåõÞò, ðïõ Ý÷åé äéáìïñöùèåß ó´Ýíáí ðïëõìïñöéêü ðïëõ÷þñï áíáøõ÷Þò ôá ôåëåõôáßá ÷ñüíéá, ç ôïðïèåóßá “Íåñïðñßïíï” ìå ôïõò äýï ãñáöéêïýò êáôáññÜêôåò êáé ç èÝá áðü ôïí ëüöï ôïõ ÐñïöÞôç Çëßá óõìðëçñþíïõí áâáíôáäüñéêá ôï ðÜæë ìéáò åíäéáöÝñïõóáò ðñïóÝããéóçò ìå ôï öõóéêü ôïðßï ðïõ ðåñéâÜëëåé ôçí Áñíáßá. Ôçí Áñíáßá âÝâáéá ðïõ Ý÷åé êáé óçìáíôéêÞ ãáóôñïíïìéêÞ êïõëôïýñá, ï ôüðïò åäþ öçìßæåôáé ãéá ôï ìÝëé ôïõ, ôï ôóßðïõñï áðü ìÝëé( ôçí ìïõíôïâßíá ), ôá ìáíéôÜñéá( åäþ óõíáíôÜìå ôçí ðïéêéëßá áâãïìçëÜêéá), ôá ãëõêÜ ôïõ êïõôáëéïý, ôïõò åîáéñåôéêïýò ôñá÷áíÜäåò êáé ôéò ÷ùñéÜôéêåò ÷õëïðßôåò. Åßäç ðïõ ìðïñåß êáíåßò íá ðñïìçèåõôåß áðü ôïõò ôïðéêïýò ãõíáéêåßïõò óõíåôáéñéóìïýò, ðïõ Ý÷ïõí áíáðôõ÷èåß éäéáßôåñá ôá ôåëåõôáßá ÷ñüíéá. ÈåùñçôéêÜ Ýíá óýíôïìï ðåñéãñáöéêü ïäïéðïñéêü óôçí Áñíáßá, èá ìðïñïýóå íá Ý÷åé ôåëåéþóåé êÜðïõ åäþ, åêôéìþ üìùò üôé ñÝêâéåì áõôÞò ôçò ðåñéÞãçóçò èá Ýðñåðå íá Þôáíå ìéá åðßóêåøç óôï ïéíïðïéåßï ôçò Êëáïýíôéá ÐáðáãéÜííç. Ç ãíùñéìßá ìå ôçí ßäéá êáé ôá êñáóéÜ ôçò èá óáò ãïçôåýóåé óßãïõñá. ÄïêéìÜóôå ôï ëåõêü «ÁëåîÜíäñá» áðü ÌáëáãïõæéÜ Þ ôï êüêêéíï «C.P» áðü Îéíüìáõñï, Syrah êáé Cabernet Sauvignon. Åßíáé èåúêÜ… Ï äåýôåñïò óôáèìüò, óôçí ðåñéÞãçóç ìáò óôçí Üëëç ×áëêéäéêÞ, ôçí ïñåéíÞ ×áëêéäéêÞ, âñßóêåôáé óå Üëëåò ãåùãñáöéêÝò óõíéóôáìÝíåò, ìéá êáé áëëÜæïõìå ÷åñóüíçóï Þ ìÜëëïí åðéóêåðôüìáóôå ìéá áðü ôéò ôñåéò ÷åñóïíÞóïõò ôçò ×áëêéäéêÞò ãéá ðñþôç öïñÜ, áöïý êáé ç Áñíáßá ðïõ õðÞñîå ç áöåôçñßá áõôïý ôïõ ôáîéäéïý, âñßóêåôáé óôïí êåíôñéêü êïñìü ôïõ íïìïý êáé ü÷é óå êÜðïéá áðü ôéò ÷åñóïíÞóïõò. Ç óôÜóç ìáò ëïéðüí, óôïí ïñåéíü Ðáñèåíþíá, ôï ìðáëêüíé ôïõ Í. ÌáñìáñÜ óôç Óéèùíßá. ÐïëëÝò oé éóôïñéêÝò ðçãÝò ðïõ áíáöÝñïíôáé óôïí Ðáñèåíþíá, êõñßùò âõæáíôéíÝò, ðïõ ôïðïèåôïýí ôçí åãêáôÜóôáóç êáôïßêùí óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ, ðåñßðïõ óôá ìÝóá ôïõ 10ïõ ì.× áéþíá. Ôï ÷ùñéü áíáöÝñåôáé óôéò äéÜöïñåò éóôïñéêÝò ðçãÝò Üëëïôå ùò Ðáñèåíüðïëéò, Þ ÐáñèÝíé, üðùò åðßóçò êáé ùò Ðáñèåíéþíáò. Áí êáé ïé áðüøåéò ó÷åôéêÜ ìå ôïí ðáëéü Ðáñèåíþíá êáé ôçí ãåùãñáöéêÞ ôïõ èÝóç äéßóôáíôáé ìåôáîý ôùí éóôïñéêþí, öáßíåôáé åí ôïýôïéò üôé ðéï ðéèáíüí íá åßíáé, üôé óôçí ôïðïèåóßá ðïõ óõíáíôÜìå óÞìåñá ôïí áíáðáëáéùìÝíï ïéêéóìü, ìÜëëïí õðÞñîå ìåôáãåíÝóôåñç åãêáôÜóôáóç, ðéèáíüôáôá ôá ÷ñüíéá ôçò ôïõñêïêñáôßáò. ÁíôéãñÜöù áðü Ýíáí ôïõñéóôéêü ïäçãü ìéá ðåñéãñáöÞ, ìå ìéá - äýï öñÜóåéò, äßíåé ðéóôåýù, ìéá ðïëý, ìá ðïëý ñåáëéóôéêÞ ðñïóÝããéóç ôïõ Ïñåéíïý Ðáñèåíþ-
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(known as mountovina), mushrooms (the avgomilakia variety is found here), spoon sweets, amazing trahanas (frumenty) and traditional noodles. These products can be bought from the local women's cooperatives, which have experienced significant growth in recent years. Theoretically, a short descriptive journey through Arnaia could have ended here. However, I believe the requiem for this journey should be a visit to the Claudia Papayianni winery. Getting to know her and her wines is definitely a fascinating experience. Try the Alexandra white wine made of the Malagousia variety and the C.P. red wine made of Xinomavro, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. They are divine... Our second stop on our tour of the “other” Chalkidiki, the mountainous Chalkidiki, involves different geographic coordinates seeing as we are changing peninsula, or rather, we are visiting one of the three peninsulas of Chalkidiki for the first time, considering
that Arnaia, the starting point of this journey, is on the prefecture's mainland and not on one of the peninsulas. So we will make a stop in the mountainous village of Parthenonas, the balcony of Neos Marmaras overlooking Sithonia. Many historical sources refer to Parthenonas, Byzantine sources in particular, and claim that the first inhabitants settled there in approximately the mid10th century AD. Different historical sources refer to the village as Parthenopolis or Partheni, as well as Parthenionas. Although the views of historians on the old Parthenonas and its geographic position vary, it seems most likely that the current site of the restored
Âñ¸ ýòî ìîæíî ïðèîáðåñòè â ìåñòíûõ æåíñêèõ êîîïåðàòèâàõ, êîòîðûå â ïîñëåäíèå ãîäû ïîëó÷èëè øèðîêîå ðàçâèòèå. Òåîðåòè÷åñêè êðàòêîå îïèñàòåëüíîå ïóòåøåñòâèè ïî ïîñ. Àðíýÿ ìîæåò áûòü çàâåðøåíî ãäå-òî çäåñü, íî ðåêâèåìîì ýòîãî ýêñêóðñà äîëæåí ñòàòü âèçèò íà âèíîäåëüíþ Êëàóäèè Ïàïàÿííè. Çíàêîìñòâî ñ íåé ëè÷íî è ñ å¸ âèíàìè, áåçóñëîâíî, î÷àðîâûâàåò. Ñëåäóåò ñîâåðøèòü äåãóñòàöèþ áåëîãî âèíà «Àëåêñàíäðà» èç Ìàëàãóçèè èëè êðàñíîãî «C.P» èç êèñëîãî ÷åðíîãî âèíîãðàäà, Ñèðà è Êàáåðíå Ñîâèíüîí. Âêóñ èõ ïîèñòèíå áîæåñòâåíåí... Âòîðàÿ îñòàíîâêà ýêñêóðñèè ïî «äðóãèì» Õàëêèäèêàì, ïî ãîðíûì Õàëêèäèêàì, ðàñïîëîæåíà â äðóãèõ ãåîãðàôè÷åñêèõ øèðîòàõ. Ïîñêîëüêó ïðîèñõîäèò ñìåíà ïîëóîñòðîâà èëè, ñêîðåå âñåãî, ïîñåùåíèå îäíîãî èç òðåõ ïîëóîñòðîâîâ Õàëêèäèêè âïåðâûå, òàê êàê ïîñ. Àðíýà, êîòîðûé áûë îòïðàâíîé òî÷êîé äàííîãî ïóòåøåñòâèÿ, ðàñïîëîæåí â öåíòðå îêðóãà, à íå íà îäíîì èç ïîëóîñòðîâîâ. Âîò è ñëåäóþùàÿ
îñòàíîâêà â ãîðíîì Ïàðôåíîíå, íà áàëêîíå ïîñ. Íýîñ Ìàðìàðàñ íà ïîëóîñòðîâå Ñèòîíèÿ. Âî ìíîãèõ èñòîðè÷åñêèõ èñòî÷íèêàõ, ãäå óïîìèíàåòñÿ Ïàðôåíîí, â îñíîâíîì âèçàíòèéñêèõ, ãîâîðèòñÿ î ïåðâûõ ïîñåëåíèÿõ â îáëàñòè ïðèìåðíî â ñåðåäèíå Õ-ãî âåêà íàøåé ýðû. Äåðåâíÿ óïîìèíàåòñÿ â ðàçëè÷íûõ èñòîðè÷åñêèõ èñòî÷íèêàõ èíîãäà êàê Ïàðôåíîïîëèñ èëè Ïàðôåíè, à òàêæå Ïàðôåíèîí. Õîòÿ ìíåíèÿ ïî ïîâîäó ñòàðîãî Ïàðôåíîíà è åãî ãåîãðàôè÷åñêîãî ïîëîæåíèÿ ðàçäåëèëèñü ñðåäè èñòîðèêîâ, âèäíî, îäíàêî, ÷òî, ñêîðåå âñåãî, â òîì ìåñòå, ãäå ñåãîäíÿ ðàñïîëîæåíà âîññòàíîâëåííàÿ
íá. “Ç óðÜíéá áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞ êáé ïéêéóôéêÞ óõãêñüôçóç ôïõ Ðáñèåíþíá, ìå ôïõò ðÝôñéíïõò ôïß÷ïõò íá äÝíïíôáé óöé÷ôÜ ìå ôá îýëéíá äïêÜñéá êáé óõíÜìá ïé æåóôïß ãÞéíïé ÷ñùìáôéóìïß óôá ðáñÜèõñá êáé ôéò åîþðïñôåò, ïëïêëçñþíïõí ôçí áéóèçôéêÞ ôåëåéüôçôá ôïõ öõóéêïý ôïðßïõ. Åíüò ôïðßïõ êáôáëõôéêïý, ìå åõäéÜêñéôåò ôéò ãñáììÝò ôùí ïñéæüíôùí, íá ÷Üíïíôáé óôï áóçìïãÜëáæï ôïõ Áéãáßïõ, ðïõ öèÜíåé ìáêñéÜ, ðïëý ìáêñéÜ ìÝ÷ñé ðïõ íá åíùèåß ìå ôéò ðáñõöÝò ôçò ïõñÜíéáò áðåñáíôïóýíçò”. Ðñáãìáôéêü óôïëßäé ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò, ï ðáñáäïóéáêüò ïéêéóìüò, äéáôçñåß áôüöéá ôç öõóéïãíùìßá ÷ùñéïý ôïõ ðåñáóìÝíïõ áéþíá êáé ðñïóåëêýåé ôï âëÝììá ôïõ êÜèå åðéóêÝðôç, ôïõ êÜèå ôáîéäåõôÞ ðïõ èá öèÜóåé ìÝ÷ñé åäþ ðÜíù. Áé÷ìáëùôßæïíôÜò ôï óå ìéá éäéüôõðç áé÷ìáëùóßá. ÓÞìåñá óôïí Ðáñèåíþíá õðÜñ÷ïõí ôáâÝñíåò, îåíþíåò, åíþ ï ðõñÞíáò ãýñù áðü ôçí ðáëéÜ åêêëçóßá(ðáëéü êïéíùíéêü êÝíôñï ôïõ Ðáñèåíþíá) áíáóôçëþíåôáé ìå ðéóôüôçôá. Óôïí Ðáñèåíþíá åðßóçò èá óõíáíôÞóïõìå ôï ëáïãñáöéêü ìïõóåßï, ôï ïðïßï ðáñïõóéÜæåé éäéáßôåñï åíäéáöÝñïí ãéá ôïí åðéóêÝðôç, êáèþò ìÝóá áðü ôá åêèÝìáôÜ ôïõ îåôõëßãåôáé ç ðáñÜäïóç, ôá Þèç êáé ôá Ýèéìá ôùí êáôïßêùí,
ìå ôçí ðáñïõóßáóç óêåõþí, åíäõìáóéþí êáé öùôïãñáöéþí áðü ôéò áñ÷Ýò ôïõ 20ïý áéþíá êáé íùñßôåñá. Êáé èá óõíáíôÞóïõìå êáé ôï "êáæáíáñéü" âÝâáéá, üðïõ öôéá÷íüôáí ðáëáéüôåñá ôï ïíïìáóôü ôóßðïõñï ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò. Ç ðáëéÜ ÍéêÞôç åßíáé ï åðüìåíïò óôáèìüò ìáò. Åäþ ðïõ óôçí êõñéïëåîßá ìÝóá óå åëÜ÷éóôá ôåôñáãùíéêÜ, ìðïñåßò íá áé÷ìáëùôßóåéò óôïí áìöéâëçóôñïåéäÞ óïõ ìéá óåéñÜ áõèåíôéêÝò åéêüíåò áðü ôï ðáñåëèüí, åéêüíåò ðïõ áðïôõðþíïíôáé Ýíôïíá, áëëÜ êáé óõíÜìá ìÝóá óå åëÜ÷éóôï ÷ñüíï áõôÝò ïé ßäéåò áíôéêáèßóôáíôáé áðü Üëëåò, ðïõ áõôüìáôá èáññåßò, ìå ìéá õðåñâáôéêÞ äéáäéêáóßá, óå åðáíáöÝñïõí óå åíåóôþôá ÷ñüíï. ÍéêÞôç êáé ðáëéÜ ÍéêÞôç ëïéðüí ïé äýï üøåéò ôïõ ßäéïõ íïìßóìáôïò, äéá-
village once housed a subsequent structure, possibly during the Turkish occupation. Below is an excerpt from a travel guide. In one or two phrases it provides in my opinion a remarkably realistic approach to mountainous Parthenonas. The rare architecture and residential layout of Parthenonas, with its stone walls secured tightly with wooden beams and the warm, earthy colours on the windows and doors all complete the aesthetic perfection of the natural landscape, a vital landscape with its clear horizon lines disappearing in the silver-blue waters of the Aegean Sea, which stretches out far, very far, until it reaches the bounds of celestial endlessness. The traditional village truly is one of the area's gems. It has not lost any of its characteristics from the previous century and captivates every visitor and every traveller who comes up here, keeping them in a distinct state of captivity. Today one finds tavernas and guest-
houses in Parthenonas, while the central area around the old church (old social centre of Parthenonas) is being faithfully reconstructed. One can also visit the folklore museum in Parthenonas, which can be very interesting to visitors as they see the traditions, customs and mores of the inhabitants unfolding through the exhibits and presentation of utensils, garments and photographs from the early 20th century and before. One can also visit the well-known "Kazanario", where they used to make the area's famed tsipouro. Our next stop is the old village of Nikiti. Here, the smallest of spaces can li-
äåðåâíÿ, áûë, âåðîÿòíî, ïîñòðîåí ïîñ¸ëîê â ïåðèîä îñìàíñêîãî âëàäû÷åñòâà. Îïèñàíèå â ïóòåâîäèòåëå â íåñêîëüêèõ ïðåäëîæåíèÿõ äà¸ò î÷åíü ðåàëèñòè÷íóþ êàðòèíó Íàãîðíîãî Ïàðôåíîíà... Óíèêàëüíàÿ àðõèòåêòóðà è îáóñòðîéñòâî Ïàðôåíîíà, ñ åãî êàìåííûìè ñòåíàìè, òåñíî ñâÿçàííûìè äåðåâÿííûìè áàëêàìè, à îäíîâðåìåííî îêíà è äâåðè, âûïîëíåííûå â òåïëûõ åñòåñòâåííûõ òîíàõ, çàâåðøàþò è ãàðìîíè÷íî âïèñûâàþòñÿ â ýñòåòè÷åñêîå ñîâåðøåíñòâî ïðèðîäíîãî ëàíäøàôòà. Ëàíäøàôòà óäàëÿþùåãîñÿ, ñ ÷åòêèìè ëèíèÿìè ãîðèçîíòà, êîòîðûå òåðÿþòñÿ â ñåðåáðèñòî-ãîëóáûõ âîäàõ Ýãåéñêîãî ìîðÿ. Ëàíäøàôòà, êîòîðûé ïðîñòèðàåòñÿ âäàëü, ÷òîáû ñîåäèíèòüñÿ ñ êðîìêàìè íåáåñíîé áåçáðåæíîñòè. Íàñòîÿùàÿ æåì÷óæèíà îáëàñòè òðàäèöèîííàÿ äåðåâíÿ - ñîõðàíÿåò ñâîé ïåðâîçäàííûé âèä äåðåâíè ïðîøëîãî âåêà, è ïðèòÿãèâàåò âçãëÿä êàæäîãî ãîñòÿ, êàæäîãî ïóòåøåñòâåííèêà, êîòîðûé ïðèäåò ñþäà, ïðèÿòíî ïëåíÿÿ è çàâîðàæèâàÿ. Ñåãîäíÿ â Ïàðôåíîíå åñòü òàâåðíû, ñåìåéíûå ïàíñèîíû, à öåíòðàëüíàÿ ïëîùàäü âîêðóã ñòàðîé öåðêâè (ñòàðûé îáùåñòâåííûé öåíòð Ïàðôåíîíà) äîñòîâåðíî ðåêîíñòðóèðîâàíà.  Ïàðôåíîíå òàêæå ðàáîòàåò ýòíîãðàôè÷åñêèé ìóçåé, êîòîðûé ïðåäñòàâëÿåò îñîáûé èíòåðåñ äëÿ ïîñåòèòåëåé, ïîñêîëüêó ýêñïîíàòû ÿâëÿþòñÿ æèâûìè ñâèäåòåëÿìè ìåñòíûõ òðàäèöèé, íðàâîâ è îáû÷àåâ æèòåëåé, ïðåäñòàâëÿÿ óòâàðü, êîñòþìû è ôîòîãðàôèè íà÷àëà ÕÕ-ãî âåêà è ðàíåå. Êîíå÷íî æå, çäåñü íàõîäèòñÿ «êàçàíàðü¸», ãäå ðàíüøå ïðîèçâîäèëè çíàìåíèòûé ðàêè Ñëåäóþùèì ïóíêòîì äëÿ ïóòåøåñòâåííèêà ñòàíåò ñòàðàÿ äåðåâåíüêà Íèêèòè. Çäåñü â áóêâàëüíîì ñìûñëå â ïðåäåëàõ íåñêîëüêèõ êâàäðàòíûõ ìåòðîâ ñåò÷àòêà ãëàçà çàõâàòûâàåò öåëûé ðÿä ïîäëèííûå îáðàçîâ ïðîøëîãî, êàðòèí, êîòîðûå ïðî÷íî îòïå÷àòûâàþòñÿ â ïàìÿòè. Íî îäíîâðåìåííî çà êîðîòêèé ïðîìåæóòîê âðåìåíè íà ñìåíó ýòèì îáðàçàì ïðèõîäÿò äðóãèå, êîòîðûå êàê áóäòî àâòîìàòè÷åñêè, òðàíñöåíäåíòíûì ñïîñîáîì, âîçâðàùàþò íàáëþäàòåëÿ â íàñòîÿùåå âðåìÿ. Ïîñ¸ëîê Íèêèòè è ñòàðàÿ äåðåâåíüêà Íèêèòè ýòî ïðîñòî äâå ñòîðîíû îäíîé ìåäàëè, ðàçíûå, îòëè÷àþùèåñÿ âñåìè ñâîèìè èíäèâèäóàëüíûìè îñîáåííîñòÿìè. Ñàìî ñîáîé ðàçóìååòñÿ, ÷òî äàæå äëÿ ñàìîãî òðåáîâàòåëüíîãî ïîñåòèòåëÿ íåäîëãàÿ îñòàíîâêà â ñòàðîé äåðåâåíüêå Íèêèòè - ïðîñòî íàñòîÿùàÿ íàõîäêà. Èìåííî â
ÏñåéíÞ ×áëêéäéêÞ/ Mountainous Chalkidiki/ Ãîðíàÿ Õàëêèäèêè öïñåôéêÝò üìùò óå üëá ôá åðß ìÝñïõò ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêÜ ôïõò. Åßíáé áõôïíüçôï, üôé ç ìáãåßá ìéáò óôÜóçò óôçí ðáëéÜ ÍéêÞôç åßíáé “üëá ôá ëåöôá” ãéá ôïí øáãìÝíï åðéóêÝðôç. Óôçí ðáëéÜ ÍéêÞôç ðïõ êïõâáëÜåé ìéá éóôïñéêÞ êëçñïíïìéÜ, ôïõëÜ÷éóôïí åöôáêïóßùí ôüóùí ÷ñüíùí. ÊáñäéÜ ôïõ ÷ùñéïý ç ðáëéÜ ðëáôåßá. ÁñéóôåñÜ ìéá áðü ôéò ôñåéò âñýóåò ðïõ êÜðïôå ôñïöïäïôïýóáí ìå íåñü ïëüêëçñï ôï ÷ùñéü. ÄåîéÜ êáé áñéóôåñÜ óôåíïóüêáêá ðïõ áîßæåé ôï êüðï íá áêïëïõèÞóåôå êáé íá åîåñåõíÞóåôå, ðñéí óôçí óõíÝ÷åéá áíçöïñÞóåôå ãéá ôçí åêêëçóßá ôïõ Áãßïõ ÍéêÞôá, ìåñéêÝò åêáôïíôÜäåò ìÝôñá ðéï ðÜíù. Ç áíçöüñá, ðñïò ôï ôÝëïò ôçò, åßíáé áëÞèåéá ãßíåôáé ëßãï áðüôïìç, ç áðïæçìßùóç üìùò ôçò èÝáò áðü ôï ðñïáýëéï ôçò åêêëçóßáò áîßæåé ôïí êüðï ãéá Ýíá ìéêñü ëá÷Üíéáóìá. ÊÜôù áðü ôçí åêêëçóßá åíäéáöÝñïí ðáñïõóéÜæåé ôï ðÝôñéíï êôßñéï ôïõ ðñþôïõ Äçìïôéêïý ó÷ïëåßïõ ôçò ÍéêÞôçò, êôßóìá ôïõ 1870,íïìßæù óÞìåñá öéëïîåíåß Þ èá öéëïîåíÞóåé ôï Ëáïãñáöéêü Ìïõóåßï ôïõ ÷ùñéïý. Åðßóçò åîáéñåôéêÜ åíäéáöÝñïõóá åßíáé ç åêêëçóßá ôçò “ÊïéìÞóåùò ôçò Èåïôüêïõ”, ìå óçìáíôéêÝò ôïé÷ïãñáößåò ôïõ 16ïõ áéþíá êáé áí åðé÷åéñÞóåé êáíåßò íá óõíå÷ßóåé ôï áíçöïñéêü ïäïéðïñéêü, ôï îùêëÞóé ôïõ Áú-ËéÜ, ìå èÝá ðñáãìáôéêÜ áíåðáíÜëçðôç óôïí Ôïñùíáßï êüëðï, ðïõ áðëþíåôáé ìðñïóôÜ óôï ïðôéêü ðåäßï ôïõ åðéóêÝðôç, ïðôéêü ðåäßï ðïõ öèÜíåé ìÝ÷ñé ôéò ÷éïíéóìÝíåò êïñõöÝò ôïõ Ïëýìðïõ êáé ôïõ ÊéóóÜâïõ, óôï âÜèïò áðÝíáíôé. Ðñéí öýãïõìå áðü åäþ êáëü èá åßíáé íá ðñïìçèåõôïýìå íôüðéï ìÝëé. ÅîÜëëïõ, üðùò êáé íá Ý÷åé óßãïõñá èá ìáò Ý÷ïõí Þäç ðñïêáëÝóåé åíôýðùóç ôá ðïëëÜ ðïëý÷ñùìá êïõôéÜ, áêüìá êáé óôéò áõëÝò ôùí óðéôéþí, ðïõ öéëïîåíïýí ôéò áðïéêßåò ôùí ìåëéóóþí êáé ôéò êåñÞèñåò ðïõ ðáñÜãåôáé ôï ìÝëé. Ìéá áñ÷Ýãïíç äéáäéêáóßá ìå éäéáßôåñá âáèéÝò ñßæåò åäþ ãéá Ýíá ðñïúüí ðïõ ïé íôüðéïé õðïóôçñßæïõí ðùò åßíáé ìïíáäéêü. ÊÜôé ðïõ ìåôáîý ìáò, íïìßæù åßíáé áëÞèåéá. Ï Ðïëýãõñïò åßíáé ç ðñùôåýïõóá ôïõ íïìïý ×áëêéäéêÞò êáé ùò åê ôïýôïõ êáé ôï äéïéêçôéêü ôçò êÝíôñï Åßíáé ÷ôéóìÝíïò ó÷åäüí áìöéèåáôñéêÜ, ìå ìÝôùðï óôçí èÜëáóóá, êôéóìÝíïò óå ìéá üìïñöç êïéëÜäá, óôéò íüôéåò õðþñåéåò ôïõ ×ïëïìþíôá, óå õøüìåôñï 550 ì. ðåñßðïõ. Óôç âüñåéá ðëåõñÜ ôïõ Ðïëõãýñïõ áðëþíïíôáé ìéá óåéñÜ ïìïéüìïñöåò ðëáãéÝò, êáôÜöõôåò áðü âáëáíéäéÝò êáé ðåýêç, ðïõ äçìéïõñãïýí Ýíá åíôõðùóéáêü ïéêïóýóôçìá, Ýíá èáõìÜóéï äÜóïò. Ïé ðëáãéÝò êáôáëÞãïõí óå ìéá óåéñÜ üìïñöá ó÷çìáôïðïéçìÝíåò êïñõöÝò, áðü ôéò ïðïßåò ç øçëüôåñç êáé áíôéêåéìåíéêÜ ç ùñáéüôåñç åßíáé ï “ÔóïõêáëÜò”, ìå õøüìåôñï 890ì. ÐÜíù áðü ôïí Ðïëýãõñï äåóðüæåé åðßóçò, Ýíáò åíôõðùóéáêüò êùíéêüò ëüöïò, ï ðåñßöçìïò Áú-ËéÜò, ìå ôï ïìþíõìï îùêëÞóé óôçí êïñõöÞ ôïõ. Ìéá åéêüíá ðïõ ðñáãìáôéêÜ óçìáôïäïôåß ó÷åäüí üëåò ôéò âïõ-
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terally offer you a series of authentic images from the past, strong images, which can however be replaced in a very short time by others that seem to automatically through some transcendental process bring you back to the present. Nikiti and the old village of Nikiti are two sides of the same coin, but differ in terms of their individual characteristics. The magic experienced when making a stop at the old village of Nikiti is definitely worth every informed traveller's while. This part of the village boasts a historical heritage of at least seven hundred odd years. The village square is at the very heart of the village. On the left lies one of the three springs that once supplied the entire village with water. On the right and left lie alleys that are definitely worth exploring before going to the church of Agios Nikitas a few hundred metres up. To be honest, the uphill climb is rather steep towards the end, but the rewarding view from the churchyard is definitely worth a little panting. Further down from the church stands the interesting stone building that once served as Nikiti's first primary school. The building dates back to 1870 and I believe it cur-
ñòàðîé äåðåâåíüêå Íèêèòè, êîòîðàÿ íåñ¸ò áîãàòîå èñòîðè÷åñêîå íàñëåäèå, íàñëåäèå, ïî êðàéíåé ìåðå, ñåìè âåêîâ. Ñåðäöåì äåðåâåíüêè ÿâëÿåòñÿ ñòàðàÿ äåðåâåíñêàÿ ïëîùàäü. Ñëåâà íàõîäèòñÿ îäèí èç òðåõ èñòî÷íèêîâ, êîòîðûå êîãäà-òî ñíàáæàëè âîäîé âñþ äåðåâíþ. Íàïðàâî è íàëåâî èäóò óçêèå ïåðåóëî÷êè, ïî êîòîðûì ñòîèò ïðîãóëÿòüñÿ, è âíèìàòåëüíî ðàçãëÿäåòü çäåñü âñ¸, ïðåæäå ÷åì ïîäíÿòüñÿ â ãîðó ê öåðêâè Ñâÿòîãî Íèêèòû, íàõîäÿùåéñÿ â íåñêîëüêèõ ñîòíÿõ ìåòðîâ âûøå. Ïî ïðàâäå ñêàçàòü, ïîä êîíåö ïîäú¸ì ñòàíîâèòñÿ íåìíîãî êðóòûì, ÷òî äàæå çàòðóäíÿåò äûõàíèå, íî îòêðûâàþùèéñÿ âçîðó ñ öåðêîâíîãî äâîðà âèä ñòîèò ýòîãî. Îñîáåííûé èíòåðåñ ïðåäñòàâëÿåò êàìåííîå çäàíèå ïåðâîé íà÷àëüíîé øêîëû ñòàðîé äåðåâåíüêè Íèêèòè, ðàñïîëîæåííîå íèæå öåðêâè è ïîñòðîåííîå â 1870 ãîäó.  íàñòîÿùåå âðåìÿ çäåñü ëèáî íàõîäèòñÿ, ëèáî áóäåò íàõîäèòüñÿ
ÏñåéíÞ ×áëêéäéêÞ/ Mountainous Chalkidiki/ Ãîðíàÿ Õàëêèäèêè
íïêïñöÝò ôçò çðåéñùôéêÞò áëëÜ êáé ôçò íçóéùôéêÞò ÅëëÜäáò, ôï îùêëÞóé ôïõ Áú ËéÜ íá áãíáíôåýåé ðÝñá óôïí ïñßæïíôá, ìå ôçí éäéáéôåñüôçôá üôé óå êÜèå ìÝñïò ðåñéâÜëëåôáé ìå ôçí á÷ëÞ êÜðïéïõ íôüðéïõ ìýèïõ Þ ðáñáìõèéïý. Óôá íüôéá ôïõ Ðïëõãýñïõ ìéá óåéñÜ åðßóçò ÷áìçëüôåñïé ëüöïé, ðåñéóóüôåñï ðïëõó÷éäåßò óôçí ãåùìïñöïëïãßá ôïõò, ìå ÷áñÜäñåò êáé ñÝìáôá, ïäçãïýí óôá ðáñÜëéá êáé ôïõò ðáñáëéáêïýò ïéêéóìïýò, ôá åðßíåéá ôïõ Ðïëõãýñïõ, ôçí ÃåñáêéíÞ êáé ôéò Êáëýâåò, ïäçãïýí äéá ìÝóïõ ôïõ åíôõðùóéáêïý åëáéþíá ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò, ðïõ áðáñéèìåß ðåñéóóüôåñá áðü 350.000 åëáéüäåíôñá. Ðïõ åê ôùí ðñáãìÜôùí äéáìïñöþíïõí Ýíá äéáöïñåôéêü ïéêïíïìéêü status quo ãéá ôïõò êáôïßêïõò. Íïìßæù åõäéÜêñéôï. Óôïí Ðïëýãõñï õðÜñ÷åé Áñ÷áéïëïãéêü ìïõóåßï, õðü ðñïûðïèÝóåéò èá ìðïñïýóå íá Þôáíå ðåñéóóüôåñï «æùíôáíü», áëëÜ Ý÷åé õðïóôåß êõñéïëåêôéêÜ áöáßìáîç, ìéá êáé ôá ðåñéóóüôåñá åõñÞìáôá ôùí áíáóêáöþí ôçò ×áëêéäéêÞò Ý÷ïõí ìåôáöåñèåß óôç Èåóóáëïíßêç. Åðßóçò õðÜñ÷åé Ëáïãñáöéêü ìïõóåßï êáé óôåãÜæåôáé óôçí ðáëéÜ «ïéêßá ÊáñáãêÜíç». Ï Ðïëýãõñïò åßíáé ìéá ðïëåïäïìéêÜ «åõñý÷ùñç» ðüëç ìå áñêåôÜ ðÜñêá êáé ãñáöéêÝò ðëáôåßåò. ÓÞìá êáôáôåèÝí ãéá ôïõò ðåñéóóüôåñïõò íôüðéïõò, ïé ïíïìáóôÝò «¸îé Âñýóåò», ìå ôïí ïìþíõìï ðïëõ÷þñï áíáøõ÷Þò, íá áðïôåëåß óçìåßï áíáöïñÜò ôçò õðÜñ÷ïõóáò êïéíùíéêÞò æùÞò ôïõ ôüðïõ. ¼ðùò óçìåßï áíáöïñÜò åßíáé êáé ï ó÷åôéêÜ åêôåôáìÝíïò ðåæüäñïìïò óôï êÝíôñï, ìå ôçí ãñáöéêÞ ðëáôåßá ðïõ äåóðüæåé ï õðåñáéùíüâéïò ðëÜôáíïò óõíõöáóìÝíïò ìå áíáñßèìçôåò éóôïñéêÝò áíáìíÞóåéò. Êáé âÝâáéá ôéò ôáâÝñíåò, ôá cafe, ôá ìðáñÜêéá êáé êÜðïéá åìðïñéêÜ êáôáóôÞìáôá. ¼÷é éäéáßôåñá ðïëëÜ üìùò, áí èÝëïõìå íá êõñéïëåêôïýìå.
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rently houses or will be housing the village's Folklore Museum. The “church of Kimisis tis Theotokou” (Dormition of the Virgin Mary) is also a very interesting site with its remarkable 16thcentury murals. If you dare to venture further up you will come across the chapel of Ai-Lias, which has a truly unsurpassable view of the Toroneos Gulf spreading out in front of it, and of the snowy mountaintops of Olympus and Kissavos popping up in the background. You cannot leave this place without buying some local honey. You are bound to be impressed by the colourful boxes found everywhere, even in gardens. These boxes are home to bee colonies and the beehives that produce honey. This is an age-old process that is deeply rooted in the region, producing a product that the locals claim is one of a kind. Just between us, I believe this is true.
Polygyros is that capital of Chalkidiki Prefecture and, as such, its administrative centre. It is built almost amphitheatrically, facing the sea, in a beautiful valley on the southern foothill of Mount Cholomon, at an altitude of approximately 550m. Spreading across the northern part of Polygyros is a range of uniform slopes covered in oak and pine trees, which form a remarkable ecosystem and magnificent forest. The slopes end up in a range of beautifully shaped tops, of which the tallest and objectively the most beautiful is the Tsoukalas mountain top with an altitude of 890m. An impressive coneshaped hill towers over Polygyros. It is the well-known hill of Ai-Lias with the chapel of the same name built right on top. This image truly signi-
ìóçåé íàðîäíîãî òâîð÷åñòâà äåðåâíè. Òàêæå î÷åíü êðàñèâ õðàì Óñïåíèÿ Áîãîðîäèöû ñ öåííûìè ôðåñêàìè XVIãî âåêà. À åñëè ïîïûòàòüñÿ ïðîäîëæèòü ïåøåõîäíûé ïîõîä â ãîðó òî ýòî ÷àñîâíÿ Ñâÿòîãî Èëüè ñ ïîèñòèíå çàõâàòûâàþùèì âèäîì íà Òîðîíåéñêèé çàëèâ. Ýòîò çàìå÷àòåëüíûé âèä îòêðûâàåòñÿ âçîðó ïîñåòèòåëÿ, è ïîëå çðåíèÿ îõâàòûâàåò çàñíåæåííûå âåðøèíû ãîðû Îëèìï è ãîðû Êèññàâîñ â ãëóáèíå íàïðîòèâ. Ïåðåä îòúåçäîì çäåñü öåëåñîîáðàçíî çàêóïàòü ìåñòíûé ìåä. Ïðè÷¸ì, áåçóñëîâíî, íà ñåáÿ îáðàùàþò âíèìàíèå è âûçûâàþò èíòåðåñ è ëþáîïûòñòâî ìíîãèå ðàçíîöâåòíûå óëüè, êîòîðûå âèäíåþòñÿ äàæå âî äâîðàõ äîìîâ.  óëüÿõ æèâóò êîëîíèè ï÷åë, è íàõîäÿòñÿ ñîòû, ãäå ïðîèçâîäèòñÿ ìåä.  ýòîì ðåãèîíå ï÷åëîâîäñòâîì çàíèìàëèñü åù¸ ñ äðåâíîñòè, ïðîöåññ èìååò î÷åíü ãëóáîêèå êîðíè ïðîèçâîäñòâà äàííîãî ïðîäóêòà, êîòîðûé, êàê óòâåðæäàþò ìåñòíûå æèòåëè, ÿâëÿåòñÿ óíèêàëüíûì. Ïî ïðàâäå ñêàçàòü, ýòî äåéñòâèòåëüíî òàê è åñòü. Ãîðîä Ïîëèãèðîñ ÿâëÿåòñÿ ñòîëèöåé ïîâà Õàëêèäèêè è, ñëåäîâàòåëüíî, åãî àäìèíèñòðàòèâíûì öåíòðîì. Ãîðîä ïîñòðîåí â âèäå àìôèòåàòðà, ñ âèäîì íà ìîðå â êðàñèâîé äîëèíå â þæíûõ ïðåäãîðüÿõ ãîðû Õîëîìîíòàñ íà âûñîòå îêîëî 550 ìåòðîâ íàä óðîâíåì ìîðÿ. Ñ ñåâåðíîé ñòîðîíû ãîðîäà Ïîëèãèðîñ ïðîñòèðàåòñÿ ðÿä ðàâíîìåðíûõ ñêëîíîâ, óòîïàþùèõ â çàðîñëÿõ ñìåøàííîãî ëåñà èç äóáà è ñîñíû, ñîçäàâàÿ óíèêàëüíóþ ýêîñèñòåìó, âåëèêîëåïíûé ðåëèêòîâûé ëåñ. Ñêëîíû ïëàâíî ïåðåõîäÿò â ãðÿäó êðàñèâî î÷åð÷åííûõ ïèêîâ, èç êîòîðûõ ñàìûì âûñîêèì è íåîñïîðèìî ñàìûì êðàñèâûì ÿâëÿåòñÿ ïèê Öóëàêàñ, âûñîòîé 890 ì. Êðîìå òîãî, íàä ãîðîäîì Ïîëèãèðîñ âëàñòâóåò âïå÷àòëÿþùèé êîíè÷åñêîé ôîðìû õîëì - çíàìåíèòûé Ñâÿòîé Èëüÿ ñ îäíîèìåííîé ÷àñîâíåé íà âåðøèíå. Ýòîò âèä äåéñòâèòåëüíî çíàìåíóåò ïî÷òè âñå ãîðíûå ïèêè êàê ìàòåðèêîâîé, òàê è îñòðîâíîé Ãðåöèè: ÷àñîâíÿ Ñâÿòîãî Èëüè, êîòîðàÿ ñ âåðøèíû ãîðû áðîñàåò âçîð çà ïðåäåëû ëèíèè ãîðèçîíòà, ñ îñîáåííîñòüþ ïîãðóæàòüñÿ â äûìêó ìåñòíîãî ìèôà èëè ñêàçêè. Þæíåå ãîðîäà Ïîëèãèðîñ íàõîäèòñÿ ðÿä áîëåå íèçêèõ õîëìîâ, áîëåå ìíîãîîáðàçíûõ ïî ãåîìîðôîëîãèè, ñ îâðàãàìè è ðó÷üÿìè, êîòîðûå âåäóò ê ïîáåðåæüþ è ê ïðèáðåæíûì äåðåâíÿì, ïîðòàì Ïîëèãèðîñà - ïîñ¸ëêàì Ãåðàêèíè è Êàëèâåñ. Ïóòü òóäà ïðîõîäèò ÷åðåç ïîòðÿñàþùèå îëèâêîâûå ðîùè, íàñ÷èòûâàþùèå áîëåå ÷åì 350.000 îëèâêîâûõ äåðåâüåâ. Ýòî, ôàêòè÷åñêè, ôîðìèðóåò àáñîëþòíî äðóãîé ýêîíîìè÷åñêèé ñòàòóñ-êâî äëÿ ìåñòíûõ æèòåëåé. Ýòî ÿñíî è ïîíÿòíî.  ãîðîäå Ïîëèãèðîñ åñòü àðõåîëîãè÷åñêèé ìóçåé, êîòîðûé ìîã áûòü áîëåå "æèâûì", íî åìó â áóêâàëüíîì ñìûñëå ñëîâà áûëî ñäåëàíî êðîâîïóñêàíèå, è
ÏñåéíÞ ×áëêéäéêÞ/ Mountainous Chalkidiki/ Ãîðíàÿ Õàëêèäèêè
ÈáõìÜóéï ìÝñïò ãéá åðßóêåøç Ýíá ÷éëéüìåôñï áðü ôçí ðüëç åßíáé êáé ôï ðåñßöçìï åîùêëÞóé ôçò Ðáíáãßáò. Ôåëåéþíïíôáò ôçí åðßóêåøÞ ìáò åäþ, Ýôóé êáé Ýôóé ìéá ìéêñÞ ðñïóÝããéóç ìðïñïýìå íá êÜíïõìå åìåßò óå áõôü ôï óçìåßùìá, äåí èá áðïöýãù ôïí ðåéñáóìü íá óáò ðñïôåßíù íá åðéóêåöôåßôå ôçí «Ìáñéãïýëá» ôï äéáóçìüôåñï ìåæåäïðùëåßï ôïõ Ðïëõãýñïõ, ìå ðáíåëëÞíéá öÞìç èá õðïóôÞñéæá. ÁðëÜ æçôÞóôå áðü ôïí ÓïöïêëÞ, ôïí éäéïêôÞôç ôçò «Ìáñéãïýëáò» íá óáò êÜíåé ìéá ðáñïõóßáóç ôùí åäåóìÜôùí ðïõ ðåñéëáìâÜíïíôáé óôïí ôéìïêáôÜëïãï, åßíáé ðáñáóôáôéêüôáôïò ìå ôçí ôá÷ýôçôá áöÞãçóçò ðñáãìáôéêÜ äõóêïëïðëçóßáóôç áðü ôïí ìÝóï áêñïáôÞ. ÁöÞóôå ëïéðüí íá óáò ïëïêëçñþóåé, êÜðïéá óôéãìÞ, èá ãßíåé êáé áõôü êáé ðáñáããåßëåôå ôçãáíéôÝò åëéÝò ìå óýãêëéíï ÌÜíçò, á÷éíïóáëÜôá, êáñðÜôóï ÷ôáðüäé ìå ìáõñïäÜöíç êáé ðåóêáíäñßôóá á÷íéóôÞ. Êëåßóôå ôï ãåýìá óáò ìå Ýíá ðñáãìáôéêÜ áðïèåùôéêü åðéäüñðéï, ôéñáìéóïý ìå åëëçíéêü êáöÝ êáé ìõæÞèñá. Êáé ìåôÜ áð áõôü ôï áíåëÝçôï öáãïðüôé åëÜôå íá áíçöïñßóïõìå ãéá ôïí ôåëåõôáßï ðñïïñéóìü ìáò óå ôïýôï ôï ïäïéðïñéêü. Ôïí ÔáîéÜñ÷ç, Ýíá ÷ùñéü ðïõ êõñéïëåêôéêÜ Ý÷åé ìåôáìïñöùèåß ôá ôåëåõôáßá ÷ñüíéá, Ý÷åé ìåôáìïñöùèåß ó´ Ýíáí óçìáíôéêü «ðáß÷ôç» ôçò ÷åéìåñéíÞò ôïõñéóôéêÞò âéïìç÷áíßáò. ÁíôéãñÜöù áðü ôï site ôïõ óõëëüãïõ «ôùí áðáíôá÷ïý äéáìåíüíôùí Ôáîéáñ÷éùôþí ×áëêéäéêÞò» Ýíá Üñèñï ó÷åôéêÜ ìå ôïí ôüðï, Ýíá Üñèñï ðïõ åðéìåëÞèçêå ï ÁóôÝñçò ËõñôæÞò, ëéôü áëëÜ ìå Ýêäçëç ôçí óõíáéóèçìáôéêÞ ÷ñïéÜ ðïõ ðÜíôá ó÷åäüí õðÜñ÷åé, üôáí ï óõíôÜêôçò åíüò êåéìÝíïõ ôáõôßæåôáé ìå ôï èÝìá ðïõ Ý÷åé êëçèåß íá áíáðôýîåé ÐáñáäïóéáêÜ ïé êÜôïéêïé ôïõ ÔáîéÜñ÷ç áó÷ïëïýíôáí ìå ôçí õëïôïìßá (åìðüñéï îýëïõ êáé êÜñâïõíïõ), ôçí êôçíïôñïößá, áëëÜ êáé åðï÷éáêÝò äïõëåéÝò, êõñßùò óôïí êÜìðï ôïõ Ðïëõãýñïõ. Ïíïìáóôïß Þôáí ïé êôßóôåò, ïé ðåôñÜäåò êáé ïé Üëëïé ôå÷íßôåò ôïõ ÔáîéÜñ÷ç. ¼ðùò êáé Üëëåò ïñåéíÝò ðåñéï÷Ýò ôçò ðáôñßäáò ìáò, ï ÔáîéÜñ÷çò ãíþñéóå ôç ìåãÜëç áéìïññáãßá ôçò ìåôáíÜóôåõóçò éäßùò ôéò äåêáåôßåò ôïõ '50
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fies almost all the mountain tops of mainland Greece and of the Greek islands. The chapel of Ai-Lias looks far beyond the horizon, where the uniqueness of each place is covered in the mist of some local myth or fairytale. A range of lower hills spreads out in the southern part of Polygyros. These hills are more intricate in terms of their geomorphology, with gorges and streams leading to the coast and seaside villages, and to the seaports of Polygyros, Gerakini and Kalyves through the area's amazing olive grove with over 350,000 olive trees. There is an Archaeological Museum in Polygyros. If circumstances were different it could have been more "lively", however it has literally been bled dry seeing as most of its finds have been transferred to Thessaloniki. There is also a Folklore Museum in the area, which is housed in the old "Karagani Residence". In terms of its urban structure, Polygyros is a "spacious" town with several parks and picturesque squares. The trademark of the area for most locals is Exi Vryses (Six Springs), with the multipurpose recreation venue of the same name forming a point of reference for the area's social life, as does the relatively large pedestrian area in the centre with the quaint square and its ageold plane tree, which is associated with countless historical memories. Of course there are also tavernas, cafes, bars and some shops, not too many though. Another marvellous place to visit just one kilometre from the town is the famous chapel of Panagia (the Virgin Mary). Ending our visit here after all, this note only allows for a brief tour. I will not resist the temptation to recommend Marigoula, the most famous mezedopoleio (traditional restaurant serving savoury Greek snacks) in Polygyros which also enjoys nationwide fame, I would say. Just ask for Sofoklis, the owner of Marigoula, and he will give you a presentation of the dishes on the menu. He is lively and talks fast, so fast that the average listener has to strain his ear. Let him finish he will come to that and order fried olives with syglino of Mani, sea urchin salad, octopus Carpaccio with Mavrodafni wine and steamed monkfish. End your meal with a divine dessert, tiramisu made of Greek coffee and myzithra cheese. After this food fest, let us travel up to the last destination of this journey, Taxiarchis. The village of Taxiarchis has literally been transformed in recent years, becoming an important "player" in the winter tourism industry. Here is an excerpt from the website of the association of people of Taxiarchis, and in particular from an article on the area written by Asteris Lyrtzis. The article is simple yet full of emotion, which is usually the case when the writer of the text identifies
áîëüøèíñòâî èç íàõîäîê ïðè ðàñêîïêàõ íà ï-îâå Õàëêèäèêè áûëî ïåðåâåçåíî â ã. Ñàëîíèêè. Êðîìå òîãî, çäåñü åñòü ýòíîãðàôè÷åñêèé ìóçåé, ðàñïîëîæåííûé â ñòàðîì îñîáíÿêå "Äîì Êàðàãàíè". Ñ òî÷êè çðåíèÿ ãðàäîñòðîèòåëüñòâà Ïîëèãèðîñ ÿâëÿåòñÿ "ïðîñòîðíûì" ãîðîäîì ñ ìíîæåñòâîì ïàðêîâ è æèâîïèñíûõ ïëîùàäåé. Ïîèñòèíå ñèìâîëîì ãîðîäà äëÿ áîëüøèíñòâà ìåñòíûõ æèòåëåé ÿâëÿåòñÿ ìåñòî ïîä íàçâàíèåì "Øåñòü èñòî÷íèêîâ» ñ îäíîèì¸ííûì ïàðêîì îòäûõà, ÿâëÿþùèìñÿ öåíòðîì îáùåñòâåííîé æèçíè ìåñòíîñòè. À òàêæå, îòïðàâíîé òî÷êîé ÿâëÿåòñÿ îòíîñèòåëüíî îáøèðíàÿ ïåøåõîäíàÿ çîíà â öåíòðå ãîðîäà ñ æèâîïèñíîé ïëîùàäüþ, ãäå âåëè÷åñòâåííî âîçâûøàåòñÿ âåêîâîé êë¸í, â âåòâÿõ êîòîðîãî ïåðåïëåòàþòñÿ áåñ÷èñëåííûå èñòîðè÷åñêèå âîñïîìèíàíèÿ. È, êîíå÷íî æå, ýòî òàâåðíû, êàôåòåðèè, áàðû è íåñêîëüêî ìàãàçèíîâ. Èõ íå î÷åíü ìíîãî, ÷åñòíî ñêàçàòü. Âåëèêîëåïíûì ìåñòîì äëÿ ïîñåùåíèÿ â îäíîì êèëîìåòðå îò ãîðîäà ÿâëÿåòñÿ èçâåñòíàÿ ÷àñîâíÿ Áîãîðîäèöû. Çàâåðøàÿ âèçèò ñþäà, è îñòàâàÿñü íà òîé æå íîòå íåëüçÿ óéòè îò ñîáëàçíà ïîñåòèòü ñàìûé çíàìåíèòûé òðàêòèð Ïîëèãèðîñà - «Ìàðèãóëà», êîòîðûé ñëàâèòñÿ ïî âñåé ñòðàíå è èìååò íåîñïîðèìóþ ïîïóëÿðíîñòü. Äîñòàòî÷íî ïðîñòî ïîïðîñèòü Ñîôîêëà, âëàäåëüöà "Ìàðèãóëû", ïîêàçàòü ìåíþ ñ ïîëíûì ïåðå÷íåì çàêóñîê. È îí ñäåëàåò ýòî ñ òàêîé ñêîðîñòüþ ïîâåñòâîâàíèÿ è âûðàçèòåëüíîñòüþ, ÷òî äåéñòâèòåëüíî øîêèðóåò ñðåäíåãî ñëóøàòåëÿ. Ëó÷øå äàòü åìó çàêîí÷èòü ñâîé ðàññêàç, òàê êàê ýòî âñ¸ ðàâíî êîãäà-òî ïðîèçîéä¸ò, è çàêàçàòü æàðåíûå îëèâêè ñ âÿëåíîé ñâèíèíîé ïî-ìàíñêè (Ìàíè - ìåñòíîñòü íà þãå ï-îâà Ïåëîïîííåñ), ñàëàò èç ìîðñêèõ åæåé, êàðïà÷÷î èç îñüìèíîãà ñ âèíîì «Ìàâðîäàôíè» (êðàñíîå âèíî) è ìîðñêîãî ÷åðòà (íàçâàíèå ðûáû) íà ïàðó. À çàâåðøèòü îáåä ëó÷øå âñåãî äåéñòâèòåëüíî «ïûëêèì» äåñåðòîì: ïèðîæíûì Òèðàìèñó ñ ÷àøå÷êîé òóðåöêîãî êîôå è òâîðîãîì. À ïîñëå òàêîãî áåçæàëîñòíîãî êóòåæà ìîæíî ïîäíÿòüñÿ ê ïîñëåäíåìó ïóíêòó íàçíà÷åíèÿ ýòîãî ïóòåøåñòâèÿ. Ýòî äåðåâíÿ Òàêñèàðõèñ (Àðõàíãåë), êîòîðàÿ â áóêâàëüíîì ñìûñëå ñëîâà ïðåîáðàçèëàñü çà ïîñëåäíèå ãîäû, ïðåâðàòèëàñü â âàæíîãî «èãðîêà» â èíäóñòðèè çèìíåãî òóðèçìà. Õîòåëîñü áû ïðîöèòèðîâàòü ñëîâà ñ ñàéòà êëóáà "âñåõ æèòåëåé, àðõàíãåëîãîðîäöåâ ïîâà Õàëêèäèêè" èç ñòàòüè íà ñàéòå, ïîñâÿù¸ííîé ýòîìó ìåñòó è íàïèñàííîé Àñòåðèñîì Ëèðòçèñîì, ñêðîìíîé, íî ñ ÿðêî âûðàæåííûì ýìîöèîíàëüíûì îòòåíêîì, êîòîðûé ïî÷òè âñåãäà ïðèñóòñòâóåò, êîãäà àâòîð òåêñòà ñëèâàåòñÿ âîåäèíî ñ òåìîé, êîòîðóþ ïðèçâàí ðàçâèòü. Òðàäèöèîííûìè çàíÿòèÿìè æèòåëåé äåðåâíè Òàêñèàðõèñ áûëè ëåñîçàãîòîâèòåëüíûå ðàáîòû (òîðãîâëÿ
ÏñåéíÞ ×áëêéäéêÞ/ Mountainous Chalkidiki/ Ãîðíàÿ Õàëêèäèêè êáé ôïõ '60. Ðåñßðïõ áðü ôï 1970 îåêéíÜåé ç êáëëéÝñãåéá ôçò åëÜôçò ãéá ÷ñéóôïõãåííéÜôéêá äÝíôñá ðïõ åíéó÷ýåé óçìáíôéêÜ ôï åéóüäçìá ôùí êáôïßêùí. Ôç äåêáåôßá ôïõ ´90 êáé éäßùò ìåôÜ ôï 2000, ç ðåñéï÷Þ ôïõ ×ïëïìþíôá êáé ôïõ ÔáîéÜñ÷ç áðïôåëïýí ðëÝïí Ýíáí áðü ôïõò ðéï ðñïóöéëåßò ðñïïñéóìïýò áãñïôïõñéóìïý êáé åíáëëáêôéêïý ôïõñéóìïý, êáèþò ïé ôïõñéóôéêÝò äñáóôçñéüôçôåò áíáðôýóóïíôáé ñáãäáßá. Ç ïñåéíÞ äéÜâáóç ôïõ ×ïëïìþíôá (äçëáäÞ ôï ôìÞìá ôçò ðáëéÜò ïäïý Èåóóáëïíßêçò Ïõñáíïýðïëçò áðü Ðáëáéüêáóôñï - ÔáîéÜñ÷ç êáé ìÝ÷ñé Áñíáßá) åßíáé êáôá÷ùñçìÝíç óôéò ðéï öõóéêÝò ãñáöéêÝò äéáäñïìÝò ôçò ÅëëÜäáò. Ìáæß ìå Üëëïõò ãñáöéêïýò äñüìïõò êáé åíáëëáêôéêÜ ìïíïðÜôéá ôïõ ×ïëïìþíôá, äßíåé ôç äõíáôüôçôá óôïí åðéóêÝðôç íá áðïëáýóåé ôï áêåñìÜôéóôï, êáôáðñÜóéíï ôïðßï, ôï ðõêíü äÜóïò áðü ìåãÜëç ðïéêéëßá äÝíôñùí, èÜìíùí, áñùìáôéêþí öõôþí, íá ìáãåõôåß áðü ôçí ìïíáäéêÞ èÝá ðñïò êÜèå êáôåýèõíóç. Íá âãåé áðü ôï äñüìï, íá ðåñðáôÞóåé óôá ìïíïðÜôéá íá äåé ðçãÝò, ñÝìáôá, ìéêñïýò êáôáññÜêôåò, íá áðïëáýóåé ôïí êáèáñü áÝñá ôïõ âïõíïý êáé íá áó÷ïëçèåß ìå ðïéêßëåò äñáóôçñéüôçôåò (áíáññß÷çóç, éððáóßá, ðïäÞëáôï, ôïîïâïëßá êëð.). ÁëëÜ êáé ï ïéêéóìüò, ðïõ Ý÷åé ÷áñáêôçñéóèåß éäéáßôåñá áîéüëïãïò, ðñïóåëêýåé ôïí åðéóêÝðôç ìå ôçí åêêëçóßá, ôï ìïõóåßï êáé ôá äéáôçñçôÝá êôßóìáôÜ ôïõ, ôá îùêëÞóéá, ôá ðáëéÜ áñ÷ïíôéêÜ, ôá óôåíÜ äñïìÜêéá, ôéò âñýóåò (Ôóéðïõôïýñá êáé ÊÜôù ÐçãÜäé), ôéò ãéïñôÝò êáé ôá ðáíçãýñéá. ÌÜëëïí íïìßæù üôé äåí õðÜñ÷åé ëüãïò íá ðñïóèÝóåé êáíåßò êÜôé åðß ðëÝïí áðü åäþ. Ç ðåñéãñáöÞ åßíáé éäéáßôåñá áîéüðéóôç åêôéìþ. Åäþ êÜðïõ áõôÞ ç ðåñéÞãçóç ôåëåéþíåé. ¼÷é âÝâáéá ãéáôß åîáíôëÞóáìå ôçí ×áëêéäéêÞ ôïõ Öèéíïðþñïõ, ôïõ ×åéìþíá êáé ôçò ¢íïéîçò. ¼÷é âÝâáéá! Ç Ì. ÐáíáãéÜ, ç ÂáñâÜñá, ï ¢ãéïò Ðñüäñïìïò, ôï Íåï÷þñé, ôï Ðáëáéï÷þñé, ç ÓõêéÜ óôçí Óéèùíßá, ç ÂÜâäïò êáé ç ÃáëÜôéóôá,áêüìá- áêüìá êáé ç ÊáëÜíäñá óôï ðñþôï ðüäé, èá åß÷áíå ðïëëÝò éóôïñßåò íá ìáò äéçãçèïýíå óßãïõñá, áíÜìåóá óå êÜðïéá «öéëÝìáôá». Íá ìáò äéçãçèïýíå ìå åêåßíç ôçí ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêÞ íôïðéïëáëéÜ ôùí áõèåíôéêþí ×áëêéäéùôþí ðïõ ï ÷ñüíïò äåí áëëïßùóå ôá ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêÜ ôïõò. Áò áðïôåëÝóïõí ëïéðüí üëïé áõôïß ïé ðñïïñéóìïß “ìáãéÜ” ãéá ôï åðüìåíï ôáîßäé ìáò, ãéá ôï åðüìåíï ïäïéðïñéêü ìáò. Êáé õðïó÷üìáóôå üôé áõôü èá ãßíåé ðïëý óýíôïìá.
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with the topic he has been asked to write about. Traditionally, the inhabitants of Taxiarchis engaged in woodcutting (trading wood and charcoal), livestock farming, as well as seasonal occupations, especially in the plain of Polygyros. The builders, masons and other craftsmen of Taxiarchis were well known. Like many other mountainous areas in our country, Taxiarchis suffered great losses from the huge outflow of emigrants, especially in the 50s and 60s. In around 1970 they began cultivating fir trees intended to be sold as Christmas trees. This activity greatly enhanced the income of the inhabitants. In the 90s, and especially after the year 2000, the regions of Cholomon and Taxiarchis became two of the most popular agritourism and alternative tourism destinations as a result of the rapid growth of tourism activities. The mountain crossing of Cholomon (i.e. the section of the old Thesaloniki-Ouranoupoli road from PalaiokastroTaxiarchis to Arnaia) is listed among the most natural and quaint routes in Greece. This crossing, as well as the other quaint roads and alternative routes on Cholomon, give visitors the opportunity to enjoy the continuous, lush green landscape and the dense forest with its wide variety of trees, bushes and herbs, and to be enchanted by the unique view seen from all angles. Visitors can
walk down the trails and marvel at the springs, streams and small waterfalls, they can enjoy the fresh mountain air and engage in a number of activities (mountain climbing, horse riding, cycling, archery, etc.). The village, too, is considered remarkable with its church, museum and listed buildings, its chapels, old mansions, narrow streets, springs (Tsipoutoura and Kato Pigadi), feasts and festivals. There is probably no point in adding anything further here. The description is rather reliable in my opinion. The journey must end here, but not because we have exhausted Chalkidiki's autumn, winter and spring sides not by a long shot! Megali Panagia, Varvara, Agios Prodromos, Neochori, Palaiochori, Sykia in Sithonia, Vavdos and Galatista, even Kalandra on the first peninsula, would certainly have many stories to tell us between a few treats here and there, stories told in that typical and authentic Chalkidiki dialect which has remained unchanged in time. We will save these destinations for our next trip, one that we promise to take very soon.
äðåâåñèíîé è äðåâåñíûì óãë¸ì), æèâîòíîâîäñòâî è ñåçîííûå ðàáîòû â îñíîâíîì â äîëèíå ãîðîäà Ïîëèãèðîñ. Æèòåëè äåðåâíè Òàêñèàðõèñ áûëè èçâåñòíûìè ñòðîèòåëÿìè, êàìåíùèêàìè, è çàíèìàëèñü ìíîãèìè äðóãèìè ðåì¸ñëàìè. Êàê è äðóãèå ãîðíûå ðàéîíû íàøåé ðîäèíû, äåðåâíÿ Òàêñèàðõèñ èñïûòàëà íà ñåáå âñþ áîëü è ãîðå÷ü ýìèãðàöèè 50-õ è 60-õ ãîäîâ. Ïðèìåðíî ñ 1970-ãî ãîäà íà÷èíàåòñÿ âûðàùèâàíèå åëåé äëÿ íîâîãîäíèõ ïðàçäíèêîâ, ÷òî çíà÷èòåëüíî óâåëè÷èëî äîõîä ìåñòíûõ æèòåëåé.  90-òûå ãîäû è îñîáåííî ïîñëå 2000 ãîäà, ðåãèîí ãîðû Õîëîìîíòàñ è äåðåâíè Òàêñèàðõèñ ïðåäñòàâëÿþò ñîáîé îäíî èç ñàìûõ èçëþáëåííûõ íàïðàâëåíèé àãðîòóðèçìà è àëüòåðíàòèâíîãî òóðèçìà, à âñå îñòàëüíûå âèäû òóðèçìà çäåñü áûñòðî ðàçâèâàþòñÿ. Ãîðíûå òðàññû ãîðû Õîëîìîíòàñ (ò.å. ÷àñòü ñòàðîé äîðîãè Ñàëîíèêè - Óðàíóïîëèñ îò ïîñ¸ëêà Ïàëýîêàñòðî Òàêñèàðõèñ è äî ïîñ¸ëêà Àðíýÿ) çàíåñåíû â ñïèñîê ñàìûõ æèâîïèñíûõ ïðèðîäíûõ ãîðíûõ ìàðøðóòîâ Ãðåöèè. Íàðÿäó ñ äðóãèìè æèâîïèñíûìè äîðîãàìè è àëüòåðíàòèâíûìè òðîïàìè ãîðû Õîëîìîíòàñ ýòîò ðåãèîí ïðåäîñòàâëÿåò ïîñåòèòåëÿì âîçìîæíîñòü íàñëàæäàòüñÿ öåëîñòíûì, óòîïàþùèì â ïûøíîé çåëåíè âèäîì, à ãóñòîé ñìåøàííûé ëåñ, ãäå ïðåäñòàâëåíî øèðîêîå ðàçíîîáðàçèå äåðåâüåâ, êóñòàðíèêîâ è ãîðíûõ ðàñòåíèé, î÷àðîâûâàåò çàõâàòûâàþùèì âèäîì â ëþáîì íàïðàâëåíèè. Ìîæíî ñîéòè ñ òðàññû, ïðîéòè ïî ãîðíûì òðîïàì, ïîëþáîâàòüñÿ èñòî÷íèêàìè, ðå÷óøêàìè, íåáîëüøèìè âîäîïàäàìè, íàñëàäèòüñÿ ñâåæèì ãîðíûì âîçäóõîì è çàíÿòüñÿ ðàçëè÷íûìè âèäàìè äåÿòåëüíîñòè (àëüïèíèçì, âåðõîâàÿ åçäà, åçäà íà âåëîñèïåäå, ñòðåëüáà èç ëóêà è ò.ä.) Îäíàêî è ñàì ïîñ¸ëîê, êîòîðûé ñ÷èòàåòñÿ îñîáåííî èíòåðåñíûì, ïðèâëåêàåò ïîñåòèòåëåé öåðêîâüþ, ìóçååì è îòðåñòàâðèðîâàííûìè ñòàðèííûìè ïîñòðîéêàìè, ñâîèìè ÷àñîâíÿìè, ñòàðûìè îñîáíÿêàìè, óçêèìè óëî÷êàìè, ïðèðîäíûìè èñòî÷íèêàìè (ïîñ¸ëêè Öèïóòóðà è Êàòî Ïèãàäè), ïðàçäíèêàìè è íàðîäíûìè ãóëÿíèÿìè. Íåò íåîáõîäèìîñòè äîáàâèòü çäåñü åùå ÷òî-òî. Îïèñàíèå äà¸ò ÷ðåçâû÷àéíî âåðíóþ îöåíêó. Ãäå-òî çäåñü ýòî ïóòåøåñòâèå çàâåðøàåòñÿ. Êîíå÷íî æå, íå ïîòîìó, ÷òî èñ÷åðïàí ðàññêàç îá îñåííèõ, çèìíèõ è âåñåííèõ Õàëêèäèêàõ. Êîíå÷íî, íåò! Ïîñ¸ëêè Áîëüøàÿ Áîãîðîäèöà, Ñâÿòîãî Èîàííà Êðåñòèòåëÿ, Íåîõîðè, Ïàëýîõîðè, Ñèêèÿ íà ï-îâå Ñèòîíèÿ, Âàâäîñ è Ãàëàòèñòà, è åù¸ Êàëàíäðà, ðàñïîëîæåííûé íà ïåðâîì ïîëóîñòðîâå, áåññïîðíî, ìîãëè áû ïîâåäàòü ìíîãî èíòåðåñíûõ èñòîðèé â ïåðåðûâå ìåæäó «óãîùåíèÿìè». Ðàññêàçàòü íà òîì õàðàêòåðíîì ìåñòíîì äèàëåêòå íàñòîÿùèõ õàëêèäèêèéöåâ, êîòîðûé îñòàëñÿ íåèçìåí¸ííûì âî âðåìåíè. Òàê ïóñòü æå âñå ýòè íàïðàâëåíèÿ ñòàíóò çàêâàñêîé äëÿ ñëåäóþùåé ïîåçäêè, äëÿ ñëåäóþùåãî ïóòåøåñòâèÿ. Îáåùàåì, ÷òî ýòî ïðîèçîéäåò î÷åíü ñêîðî.
Ðñï ôïõ ¢èù ðåñéï÷Þ ×áëêéäéêÞò Ï áðüëõôïò ðñïóêõíçìáôéêüò ðñïïñéóìüò … Áðü ðïõ íá áñ÷ßóåé êáé ðïõ íá ôåëåéþóåé êáíåßò, ðåñéãñÜöïíôáò ìßá ðåñéï÷Þ, ðïõ ðñïóöÝñåé üëåò ó÷åäüí ôéò óýã÷ñïíåò ôïõñéóôéêÝò ìïñöÝò. Áðü ôéò êáëïêáéñéíÝò äéáêïðÝò óôá 300 ÷éë. áêôïãñáììÞò ôçò Þ áðü ôéò ïéíéêÝò ðåñéçãÞóåéò óôá ðïëëÜ ïéíïðïéåßá êáé ðáñáäïóéáêÜ ôóéðïõñïêÜæáíá; ¹ ìÞðùò áðü ôéò ðåñéðáôçôéêÝò äéáäñïìÝò áíÜìåóá óôéò äåêÜäåò áììþäåéò ðáñáëßåò êáé óôïõò ôñåéò ðñïóôáôåõìÝíïõò áðü ôçí åõñùðáúêÞ óõíèÞêç Natura 2000 ïñåéíïýò üãêïõò; ¹ áðü ôéò ãáóôñïíïìéêÝò áðïëáýóåéò êáôÜ ôç äéÜñêåéá ôïõ Mount Athos Area Kouzina (15.5. -15.6 êÜèå ÷ñüíï); ¹ áðü ôéò ðïëéôéóôéêÝò åîïñìÞóåéò óôá ðåñßöçìá «ÁñéóôïôÝëåéá» êáé óôïõò áñ÷áéïëïãéêïýò ÷þñïõò ôïõ ðáñåëèüíôïò; ¹ áêüìç êáëýôåñá áðü ôéò ðñïóêõíçìáôéêÝò ðåñéçãÞóåéò óôï ¢ãéïí ¼ñïò, ôç ìïíáäéêÞ óôïí êüóìï æùíôáíÞ ìïíáóôéêÞ ðïëéôåßá, ÷áñáêôçñéóìÝíç ùò ìíçìåßï ðáãêüóìéáò ðïëéôéóôéêÞò êëçñïíïìéÜò, ìå ôá åßêïóé (20) ìïíáóôÞñéá âõæáíôéíÞò áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞò, ôéò äþäåêá (12) óêÞôåò êáé ôá ïêôáêüóéá (800) êåëéÜ; Åßíáé ãíùóôü üôé ôï ¢ãéïí ¼ñïò áðïôåëåß áõôïäéïéêïýìåíç ìïíáóôéêÞ ðïëéôåßá (country in a country) êáé ç ãåéôíßáóÞ ôïõ ìå ôçí ðåñéï÷Þ êáèéóôÜ áõôüìáôá ôïí ðñïïñéóìü ùò ðñïóêõíçìáôéêü - êáé ìÜëéóôá ðáãêüóìéáò åìâÝëåéáò. Ç ÷åñóüíçóïò áðïôåëåß ÷þñï ìïíáäéêÞò êáé ðáñèÝíáò öõóéêÞò ïìïñöéÜò êáé êáôïéêåßôáé ìüíï áðü ìïíá÷ïýò (2.200 óôï óýíïëï). ÊÜèå ÷ñüíï Ýíá åêáôïììýñéï ðåñßðïõ (1.000.000) åðéóêÝðôåò èáõìÜæïõí ôï ëßêíï ôçò Ïñèïäïîßáò, ðïõ ðÜíù áðü 1.000 ÷ñüíéá æåé óýìöùíá ìå ôïõò êáíüíåò ôçò æùÞò êáé ôçò èñçóêåõôéêüôçôáò ôùí âõæáíôéíþí. Ï ¢èùíáò åßíáé Ýíá ìåãÜëï ìïõóåßï âõæáíôéíÞò êáé ìåôáâõæáíôéíÞò ôÝ÷íçò. Ôïé÷ïãñáößåò, ðëïýóéåò âéâëéïèÞêåò, øçöéäùôÜ, ðïëýôéìá ìéêñïôå÷íÞìáôá, ëåéôïõñãéêÜ óêåýç êáé êåéìÞëéá áíåêôßìçôçò áîßáò öõëÜóóïíôáé óôéò ìïíÝò êáé ìåôáôñÝðïõí ôçí ðåñéÞãçóç óå èñçóêåõôéêÞ åìðåéñßá. ¼ìùò - åêôüò ôçò ÉåñÞò Ðïëéôåßáò - ç ðåñéï÷Þ äéáèÝôåé äåêÜäåò ÷áñôïãñáöçìÝíåò ðñïóêõíçìáôéêÝò ðåñéçãÞóåéò óôá ðÜíù áðü 100 åðéóêÝøéìá ðñïóêõíÞìáôÜ ôçò, ãéá ôá ïðïßá ìðïñåßôå íá åíçìåñþíåóôå åðéóêåðôüìåíïé ôçí éóôïóåëßäá www.mountathosarea.org ¼,ôé âÝâáéá êáé áí åðéëÝîåôå íá êÜíåôå ðñÝðåé íá ãíùñßæåôå üôé ç ðñï ôïõ ¢èù ðåñéï÷Þ ôçò ×áëêéäéêÞò óáò ðåñéìÝíåé êÜèå åðï÷Þ, êÜèå ìÝñá ïëüêëçñï ôï ÷ñüíï!
Mount Athos Area in Chalkidiki The absolute pilgrimage destination… One wouldn't know where to start and where to stop describing an area that offers almost all modern forms of tourism. Should one start from the 300km coastline that is ideal for a summer vacation, or from the wine routes to the many wineries and traditional tsipouro distillation tanks? Perhaps from the hiking trails between the dozens of sandy beaches and the three massifs protected under the Natura 2000 convention? Or from the culinary delights featured in the Mount Athos Area Gourmet (15.5. -15.6 every year)? From the cultural visits to the famous Aristoteleia festival and the archaeological sites of the past? Or even better, from the pilgrimage tours to Mount Athos, the only existing monastic state in the world, which has been classified as a World Heritage Site with its twenty (20) monasteries featuring Byzantine architecture, twelve (12) sketes and eight hundred (800) cells? It is a known fact that Mount Athos is an autonomous monastic state (a state within a state) and therefore the neighbouring area is automatically rendered a pilgrimage destination, and indeed a global one. The peninsula is a place of unique and virgin natural beauty which is inhabited solely by monks (2,200 in total). Every year approximately one million (1,000,000) visitors come to admire the cradle of the Orthodox religion, which has for over 1,000 years been living in accordance with the rules on the life and religiousness of the Byzantines. Athos is a large museum of Byzantine and post-Byzantine art. Wall paintings, rich collections of books, mosaics, valuable artefacts, utensils and priceless heirlooms are kept at the monasteries, turning the tour into a religious experience. However apart from the Holy State the area offers dozens of mapped pilgrimage tours to over 100 accessible pilgrimages. You can find information on these tours by visiting www.mountathosarea.org Whatever you choose to do, keep in mind that the Mount Athos area in Chalkidiki welcomes you every day, every season throughout the year!
Ïåðåä Àôîíîì íàõîäèòñÿ îáëàñòü Õàëêèäèêè Ñàìîå èçâåñòíîå ìåñòî ïàëîìíè÷åñòâà... Ñ ÷åãî íà÷àòü è ÷åì çàêîí÷èòü îïèñàíèå ðàéîíà, êîòîðûé ðàñïîëàãåò ïðàêòè÷åñêè âñåìè ñîâðåìåííûìè ôîðìàìè òóðèçìà. Ñ ëåòíèõ êàíèêóë íà ïîáåðåæüå ïðîòÿæåííîñòüþ 300 êì èëè òóðàìè çíàêîìÿùèõ ñ âèíîäåëèåì íà âèííûõ ïðîèçâîäñòâàõ è òðàäèöèîííûõ ïðåäïðèÿòèõÿ ïî èçãîòîâëåíèþ ñïèðòíûõ íàïèòêîâ? À ìîæåò ëó÷øå íà÷àòü ñ ïðîãóëêè ñðåäè äåñÿòêîâ ïåñ÷àíûõ ïëÿæåé íàõîäÿùèõñÿ â òðåõ ãîðíûõ çàïîâåäíûõ çîíàõ, êîòîðûå çàùèùåíû åâðîïåéñêîé êîíâåíöèåé Natura 2000? Èëè ñ êóëèíàðíûõ èçûñêàíèé â Àôîíå ïîä íàçâàíèåì Mount Athos Area Kouzina (15.05 -15.06 êàæäûé ãîä)? Èëè ñ ïîçíàâàòåëüíûå ýêñêóðñèè ïî çíàìåíèòûì ìåñòàì, îïèñàíûõ â ïðîèçâîäåíèè "Àðèñòîòåëèà" è ïî àðõåîëîãè÷åñêèì ïàìÿòíèêàì ïðîøëîãî? Èëè äàæå ëó÷øå, ñ ïàëîìíè÷åñêèìè òóðàìè íà Ñâÿòóþ ãîðó Àôîí, åäèíñòâåííóþ â ìèðå ìîíàøåñêóþ àâòîíîìíóþ îáëàñòü âíåñ¸ííàÿ êàê îáúåêò â Âñåìèðíîå íàñëåäèå ÞÍÅÑÊÎ, ñ 20 (äâàäöàòüþ) ìîíàñòûðÿìè âèçàíòèéñêîé ýïîõè, ñ äâåíàäöàòüþ (12) ìîíàøåñêèìè ïîñåëåíèÿìè è âîñåìüþñòàìè (800) ìîíàøåñêèìè êåëüÿìè? Èçâåñòíî, ÷òî ãîðà Àôîí ÿâëÿåòñÿ ñàìîóïðàâëÿåìûì ìîíàøåñêèì ãîñóäàðñòâîì (ñòðàíà â ñòðàíå) è åãî áëèçîñòü ê îáëàñòè äåëàåò ýòî íàïðàâëåíèå ïàëîìíè÷åñòâà äåéñòâèòåëüíî ãëîáàëüíûì. Ïîëóîñòðîâ ÿâëÿåòñÿ ìåñòîì óíèêàëüíîé è íåòðîíóòîé ïðèðîäíîé êðàñîòû, ãäå æèâóò òîëüêî ìîíàõè (2200 ÷åëîâåê). Êàæäûé ãîä îêîëî îäíîãî ìèëëèîíà (1000000) ïîñåòèòåëåé âîñõèùàþòñÿ êîëûáåëüþ ïðàâîñëàâèÿ, êîòîðûå â òå÷åíèå 1000 ëåò, æèâóò â ñîîòâåòñòâèè ñ æèçñíåíûìè è ðåëèãèîçíûìè ïðàâèëàìè âèçàíòèéöåâ. Àôîí ÿâëÿåòñÿ âåëèêèì ìóçååì âèçàíòèéñêîãî è ïîñò-âèçàíòèéñêîãî èñêóññòâà. Ôðåñêè, áîãàòûå áèáëèîòåêè, ìîçàèêè, äðàãîöåííûå ìèíèàòþðû, ïðåäìåòû ëèòóðãèè è ðåëèêâèè íåîöåíèìîãî çíà÷åíèÿ, õðàíÿòñÿ â ìîíàñòûðÿõ è ïåðåâðàùàþò çíàêîìñòâî ñ íèìè â ðåëèãèîçíûé îïûò. Çà ïðåäåëàìè ñâÿùåííîãî ãîñóäàðñòâà, îáëàñòü Àôîí ðàñïîëàãàåò äåñÿòêàìè ïàëîìíè÷åñêèõ ìàðøðóòîâ â áîëåå ÷åì 100 îáúåêòîâ ïîëîìíè÷åñòâà. Âû î íèõ ìîæåòå óçíàòü ïîñåòèâ ñàéò www.mountathosarea.org Êàêîé áû ìàðøðóò Âû íå âûáðàëè íà Àôîíå, çíàåòå, ÷òî îáëàñòü Õàëêèäèêè æäåò Âàñ êàæäûé ðàç, êàæäûé äåíü - êðóãëûé ãîä!
ÓéÜôéóôá/ Siatista/ Ñèàòèñòà
86 betterfly magazine
ÓéÜôéóôá Ïé ðñïóäéïñéóìïß ðïõ ßóùò êëçèåß íá ÷ñçóéìïðïéÞóåé êáíåßò ãéá íá ðåñéãñÜøåé ôçí ÓéÜôéóôá åßíáé ìÜëëïí áð áõôïýò ðïõ äýóêïëá óõíáíôéïýíôáé óå óõìâáôéêÜ ôïõñéóôéêÜ Ýíôõðá. Ìéá êáé åäþ ôï ôïðßï Ý÷åé ôéò äéêÝò ôïõ éäéáéôåñüôçôåò ìå êõñßáñ÷ï óôïé÷åßï ìéá óåéñÜ «óôåãíÜ» õøþìáôá, ÷ùñßò êáèüëïõ âëÜóôçóç, êõñéïëåêôéêÜ ãõìíÜ, ìéá «ãýìíéá» üìùò ðïõ äßíåé ìéá rock áßóèçóç óôïí åðéóêÝðôç, åßôå åéóÝñ÷åôáé óôçí ðüëç áðü ôçí «ÌðÜñá», ôçí äéáóôáýñùóç äçëáäÞ ìå ôïí ðáëéü äñüìï ðïõ óýíäåå ôçí ÊïæÜíç ìå ôçí ÊáóôïñéÜ êáé ôá ÃéÜííåíá Þ áðü ôç âüñåéá ìåñéÜ, áíÜìåóá áðü ôá üñç ÓâÝñíéóôóï êáé ÂÝëéá (åðáñ÷éáêÞ ïäüò ÅñÜôõñáò-ÓéÜôéóôáò-ÍåÜðïëçò), ìåôÜ ôçí Áãßá ÊõñéáêÞ.
Siatista It is difficult to describe Siatista by using words normally encountered in conventional tourist brochures. Given that the landscape of Siatista has its unique specificities and is dominated by a series of “totally bare” heights, giving, however, a rock sense to the visitors whether they enter the city from “Bara”, namely, the crossing with the old road connecting Kozani with kastoria and Ioannina, or from the north, between mounts Svernisto and Velia (regional road of Eratyra - Siatista Neapoli) after Agia Kyriaki.
Ñèàòèñòà Îïðåäåëåíèÿ, êîòîðûå êòî-ëèáî áóäåò âûçâàí èñïîëüçîâàòü äëÿ îïèñàíèÿ Ñèàòèñòà, ïîæàëóé, îòíîñÿòñÿ ê òåì, êîòîðûå òðóäíî âñòðå÷àþòñÿ, â îáû÷íûõ òóðèñòè÷åñêèõ áðîøþðàõ. Ïîñêîëüêó çäåñü ïåéçàæ èìååò ñâîè îñîáåííîñòè ñ äîìèíèðóþùèì ýëåìåíòîì èç ïîñëåäîâàòåëüíîñòè âûñîõøèõ âîçâûøåííîñòåé, áåç ðàñòèòåëüíîñòè, áóêâàëüíî ãîëûõ, îäíàêî ýòî «íàãîòà» ïðåäîñòàâëÿåò ïîñåòèòåëþ ðîê îùóùåíèå, ëèáî îí âúåçæàåò â ãîðîä ñî ñòîðîíû «Áàðà», ò.å. ñïåðåêð¸ñòêà ñòàðîé äîðîãè, ñîåäèíÿþùåé ãîðîäà Êîçàíè, Êàñòîðèÿ è ßíèíà èëè ñ ñåâåðíîé ñòîðîíû, ìåæäó ãîðàìè Ñâåðíèñòî è Âåëèà (ïðîâèíöèàëüíûå äîðîãè ÝðàòèðàÑèàòèñòà Íåàïîëè), ïîñëå Àãèà Êèðèàêè.
ÓéÜôéóôá/ Siatista/ Ñèàòèñòà Åßíáé ðñïöáíÝò üìùò üôé áõôÞ ç ðñþôç ðåñéãñáöÞ èá ìðïñïýóå åê ðñïïéìßïõ íá ìïñöïðïéÞóåé ìéá åéêüíá ðïõ èá áäéêïýóå ôçí ÓéÜôéóôá. ÁõôÞ êáè áõôÞ ôçí ðüëç. Ìéá ðüëç ÷ôéóìÝíç áìöéèåáôñéêÜ, óå õøüìåôñï ó÷åäüí 900 ìÝôñá óôï âïõíü ÂÝëéá, ðïõ áðïôåëåß ðñïÝêôáóç ôçò ïñïóåéñÜò ôïõ ÓéíéÜôóéêïõ Þ Áóêßïõ üñïõò. Ìéá ðüëç ìå Ýíôïíï ÷ñþìá, åîáéñåôéêÝò áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÝò êáôáóêåõÝò ïé ïðïßåò áðïôõðþíïíôáé óå êôßñéá êáé åêêëçóßåò êáëïäéáôçñçìÝíåò, ðïõ ÷ñïíïëïãïýíôáé áðü ôá ôÝëç ôïõ 19ïõ êáé ôéò áñ÷Ýò ôïõ 20ïõ áéþíá. Ìéá ðüëç ìå ìéêñÝò åñãïíïìçìÝíåò óêéåñÝò ðëáôåßåò. Ðëáôåßåò, üðùò ç “ðëáôåßá ôçò ×þñáò”, ç “ðëáôåßá ÃåñÜêéá”, ç “ðëáôåßá ÅèíéêÞò Óõìöéëßùóçò”, ðëáôåßåò åäþ üðïõ ç áðüëáõóç åíüò åëëçíéêïý êáöÝ ìåIt is evident that this first description could give the wrong impression for Siatista, to begin with. This city is built on a slope, at a 900-meter altitude on Velia Mountain which is the extension of the Siniatsiko or Askio Sierra. A city with intense colors, excellent architectural constructions to admire, well-maintained buildings and churches dating back to the 19th beginnings of the 20th century, a city with small ergonomic shady squares. The “Squares in Chora”, such as “Gerakia square” and “Ethnikis Simfiliosis Square”, were the places. where enjoying a Greek cup of coffee became the very essence of philosophy for a different view of our daily life. A very obviously optiÎäíàêî î÷åâèäíûì ÿâëÿåòñÿ òî, ÷òî ýòî ïåðâîíà÷àëüíîå îïèñàíèå ñìîãëî áû èçíà÷àëüíî ñîçäàòü êàðòèíó, ê î ò î ð à ÿ á û ë à á û íåñïðàâåäëèâîé äëÿ Ñèàòèñòà, ñàìîãî ãîðîäà. Ãîðîä, ïîñòðîåííûé ñòóïåíåîáðàçíî íà âûñîòå 900 ìåòðîâ íà ãîðå Âåëèà, êîòîðûé ÿâëÿåòñÿ ïðîäîëæåíèåì ãîðíîãî õðåáòà Ñèíèàñèêî èëè ãîðû Àñêèî. Ãîðîä ñ ÿðêèìè öâåòàìè, èñêëþ÷èòåëüíûõ àðõèòåêòóðíûõ ñòèëåé, îòðàæ¸ííûõ â çäàíèÿõ è õîðîøî ñîõðàí¸ííûõ öåðêâÿõ, äàòèðîâàííûõ êîíöîì 19-ãî è íà÷àëîì 20-ãî âåêîâ, ãîðîä ñ íåáîëüøèìè óþòíûìè òåíèñòûìè ïëîùàäÿìè. Ïëîùàäè, “ïëîùàäü Õîðà”, “ïëîùàäü Ãåðàêàñ”, “ïëîùàäü Íàöèîíàëüíîãî Ïðèìèðåíèÿ”, ïëîùàäè, çäåñü, ãäå íàñëàæäåíèå ãðå÷åñêèì êîôå ñòàíîâèòñÿ êâèíòýññåíöèåé ôèëîñîôèè, äëÿ èíîé
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ÓéÜôéóôá/ Siatista/ Ñèàòèñòà
ôáôñÝðåôáé óå ðåìðôïõóßá ôçò öéëïóïößáò, ãéá ìéá äéáöïñåôéêÞ áíôéìåôþðéóç ôçò êáèçìåñéíüôçôáò. Ìéáò Ýêäçëá áéóéüäïîçò áíôéìåôþðéóçò. Ìéáò êáèçìåñéíüôçôáò ðïý ó´ áõôÞ ôçí ðåñéï÷Þ äåí Þôáíå ó÷åäüí ðïôÝ óôçí äéáäñïìÞ ôçò éóôïñßáò, åýêïëç õðüèåóç. ºóùò üìùò Ýíá ðïëý îå÷ùñéóôü DNA íá åßíáé åêåßíï ðïõ Ý÷åé äçìéïõñãÞóåé áõôü ôï ôüóï áíèåêôéêü êáé áéóéüäïîï êñÜìá óôïõò Óéáôéóôéíïýò. ¸íá êñÜìá ðïõ ôïõò êÜíåé íá îå÷ùñßæïõí, ôïõò êÜíåé äçìéïõñãéêïýò êáé êáðÜôóïõò. ÁíáìöéóâÞôçôá âïçèÜåé êáé ôï êëßìá ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò, ìåóïãåéáêü, õãéåéíü êáé îçñü, ìå ôïí áÝñá íá åßíáé ðÜíôá êáèáñüò êáé ôçí ïìß÷ëç íá áðïôåëåß Ýíá ó÷åäüí óðÜíéï êáéñéêü öáéíüìåíï êÜôé óáí ôçí âñï÷Þ óôçí Ýñçìï Êáëá÷Üñé Ýíá ðñÜãìá. Êáé ïðùóäÞðïôå, áí èÝëïõìå íá êõñéïëåêôÞóïõìå èá ðñÝðåé óßãïõñá íá óõìðåñéëÜâïõìå óôçí üëç äéáäéêáóßá ôçò ôáõôïðïßçóçò ôïõ ÷áñáêôÞñá ôùí Óéáôéóôéíþí êáé ôï åîáéñåôéêü íôüðéï êñáóß, íÝ-
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mistic way of facing life. The daily life in this area was never an easy one in the history of this city. The fact that the inhabitants of Siatista are such an enduring and optimistic mix is possibly due to its unique DNA. This is the mix that makes them stand out, be creative and cunning. No doubt, the climate helps a lot. Mediterranean, healthy and dry, the air is always clean and the fog is as rare as is rainfall in Kalahari Desert. If we wish to be literal, we should, certainly, include to this process of identifying the inhabitants of Siatista, the excellent local wine, Gods' nectar, that almost all families make at home, this time of the year, for private use, quantities are always quite generous. Then, for the visitors there is the winery “Two Friends' Domain” which they can visit, the best choice for red would be “Iliasto” but the white is sure to challenge wine connaisseurs. With regard to the mansions, about sixty of them still preserved in Siatista, it is worth
ïðîòèâîñòîÿíèÿ åæåäíåâíîñòè, ÿâíî îïòèìèñòè÷íîãî ïðîòèâîñòîÿíèÿ. Åæåäíåâíîñòü, êîòîðàÿ â ýòîì ðåãèîíå ïî÷òè íèêîãäà íå áûëà ë¸ãêèì äåëîì íà ïóòè èñòîðèè. Îäíàêî, ïîæàëóé, î÷åíü îñîáàÿ ÄÍÊ ÿâëÿåòñÿ òåì, ÷òî ñîçäàëî ýòîò îäíîâðåìåííî ïðî÷íûé è îïòèìèñòè÷íûé ñïëàâ æèòåëåé Ñèàòèñòà. Ýòîò ñïëàâ âûäåëÿåò èõ, äåëàåò èõ òâîð÷åñêèìè è èçîáðåòàòåëüíûìè. Íåñîìíåííî, ýòîìó ñïîñîáñòâóåò êëèìàò ðåãèîíà, ñðåäèçåìíîìîðñêèé, çäîðîâûé è ñóõîé, âñåãäà ÷èñòûé âîçäóõ è òóìàí, î÷åíü ðåäêîå ïîãîäíîå ÿâëåíèå, êàê äîæäü â ïóñòûíå Êàëàõàðè. È îáÿçàòåëüíî, åñëè ìû õîòèì âûðàçèòüñÿ áóêâàëüíî, îáÿçàòåëüíî íóæíî âêëþ÷èòü â ïðîöåññ èäåíòèôèêàöèè õàðàêòåðà æèòåëåé Ñèàòèñòà èñêëþ÷èòåëüíîå ìåñòíîå âèíî, íåêòàð áîãîâ, êîòîðîå ïî÷òè êàæäàÿ ñåìüÿ ãîòîâèò â ýòî âðåìÿ ãîäà, äëÿ ñâîèõ ñîáñòâåííûõ íóæä. Ïðàâäà, íå æàäíè÷àÿ, ÷òî êàñàåòñÿ êîëè÷åñòâà. Äëÿ ïîñåòèòåëåé æå áëàãî ñóùåñòâóåò âèíîäåëüíÿ «Óñàäüáà Äâà Äðóãà», êîòîðàÿ îòêðûòà äëÿ ïîñåòèòåëåé, ýòî ëó÷øèé âûáîð, à «Èëèàñòî» êðàñíîå è áåëîå ÿâëÿåòñÿ ñåðüåçíûì âûçîâîì äëÿ çíàòîêîâ âèíà. Ñòîèò ñäåëàòü îñîáîå óïîìèíàíèå îòíîñèòåëüíî ñòàðèííûõ îñîáíÿêîâ Ñèàòèñòà. Ñóùåñòâóþò, ïî êðàéíåé ìåðå, øåñòüäåñÿò îñîáíÿêîâ, áîëüøèíñòâî èç êîòîðûõ ìîæíî ïîñåòèòü. Íàñòîÿùèå øåäåâðû, ïîñòðîåííûå èçâåñòíûìè ìåñòíûìè ðåç÷èêàì ïî êàìíþ, ñ îòëè÷èòåëüíûìè âëèÿíèÿìè ïî÷òè ñî âñåé Åâðîïû, ìåñòà, ãäå ïóòåøåñòâîâàëè, ðàáîòàëè è îáùàëèñü ìàñòåðà èç Ñèàòèñòà. Âïå÷àòëÿþùèé èíòåðüåð, ñ ìîòèâàìè â íàòóðàëüíîé öâåòîâîé ãàììå èç ãðå÷åñêîé ìèôîëîãèè, íî è èçîáðàæåíèÿ æèâîòíûõ, ðàñòåíèé è ñöåí îõîòû, ðåçíûå ïîòîëêè ñ
ÓéÜôéóôá/ Siatista/ Ñèàòèñòà
êôáñ Èåþí, ðïõ ó÷åäüí êÜèå ïéêïãÝíåéá ðáñáóêåõÜæåé, ãéá äéêÞ ôçò ÷ñÞóç. ×ùñßò íá ôóéãêïõíåýåôáé óôéò ðïóüôçôåò åßíáé áëÞèåéá. Ãéá ôïõò åðéóêÝðôåò ðÜëé, íá åßíáé êáëÜ ôï ïéíïðïéåßï « ÊôÞìá Äýï Ößëïé» ðïõ åßíáé êáé åðéóêÝøéìï, åßíáé ç êáëýôåñç åðéëïãÞ, ôï «Çëéáóôü» ôï êüêêéíï áëëÜ êáé ôï ëåõêü, åßíáé åîáéñåôéêÞ ðñüêëçóç ãéá ôïõò ïéíïãíþóôåò. Ãéá ôá áñ÷ïíôéêÜ ôçò ÓéÜôéóôáò áîßæåé êáíåßò íá êÜíåé ìéá éäéáßôåñç áíáöïñÜ. ÕðÜñ÷ïõí åîÞíôá ôïõëÜ÷éóôïí áñ÷ïíôéêÜ ôá ðåñéóóüôåñá áð áõôÜ åðéóêÝøéìá. ÁëçèéíÜ áñéóôïõñãÞìá-
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visiting them as most accept visitors. Real masterpieces, built by reputable local stone carvers evidently influenced by the entire Europe, places where they travelled and worked, people they met. Impressive interiors, motives in earthly colors inspired by the Greek mythology, as well as representations of animals, plants and hunting scenes, sculpted ceilings with very impressive detailed designs. The most renowned are the ones of “Poulko”, “Nerantzopoulou”, “Manousis”, “Folk Art Museum at Dolkira mansion”, the Cultural Association of Siatista «Markides Pouliou», with a rich folk art material from the life of the inhabitants of Siatista.
äåêîðàòèâíûìè óçîðàìè, êîòîðûå òàêæå âïå÷àòëÿþò ñâîèìè äåòàëÿìè. Ñàìûìè èçâåñòíûìè èç íèõ ÿâëÿþòñÿ Ïóëêîñ, Íåðàäçîïóëó, Ìàíóñè, Ýòíîãðàôè÷åñêèé ìóçåé â îñîáíÿêå Äîëêèðà, Îáðàçîâàòåëüíîå è Êóëüòóðíîå îáùåñòâî Ñèàòèñòà «Ìàðêèäåñ Ïóëèó», ñ áîãàòûì ôîëüêëîðíûì ìàòåðèàëîì èç æèçíè æèòåëåé Ñèàòèñòà. Òàêæå îáÿçàòåëüíî íóæíî óïîìÿíóòü è ìåõ, äðóãîé ôèðìåííûé çíàê ðåãèîíà, ñ÷èòàþ, ÷òî ìåõ è Ñèàòèñòà ÿâëÿþòñÿ ïàðàëëåëüíûìè ïîíÿòèÿìè â èíòåðàêòèâíîì èñòîðè÷åñêîì ïóòè, êîòîðûé íà÷èíàåòñÿ ãäå-òî â íà÷àëå 14ãî âåêà è äîñòèãàåò äî íàñòîÿùåãî âðåìåíè. Îáðàáîòêà ìåõà è êîæè ýòî èñêóññòâî, êîòîðîå ïåðåäàåòñÿ ïî íàñëåäñòâó èç ïîêîëåíèÿ â ïîêîëåíèå, ñëåäóÿ èìïóëüñàì è ðàçâèòèþ ãîðîäà, ÷òî äåëàåò Ñèàòèñòà èçâåñòíûì âî âñåì ìèðå, äàâàÿ ðåïóòàöèþ, îòãîëîñîê êîòîðîé èãðàåò âàæíóþ ðîëü, è ïî ñåé äåíü. È, êîíå÷íî, ïðîèçâîäñòâî øóá ÿâëÿëîñü, ñ íåáîëüøèìè îòêëîíåíèÿìè, ýêîíîìè÷åñêèì ïîòåíöèàëîì æèòåëåé, ïî÷òè â ïîëíîì îáúåìå, æèòåëåé, êîòîðûå èíâåñòèðîâàëè ýòó ñôåðó, ñîçäàâàÿ ôàáðèêè è ìåñòà ðåàëèçàöèè.  Ñèàòèñòà æèçíü, âîçìîæíî, èìååò íåîáû÷àéíî áûñòðûå òåìïû. Îíà èìååò îáèëüíóþ ýíåðãèþ, êîòîðàÿ îòðàæàåòñÿ â äåÿòåëüíîñòè æèòåëåé. Âàæíîé ÷àñòüþ ýòîé äåÿòåëüíîñòè ÿâëÿþòñÿ êóëüòóðíûå ìåðîïðèÿòèÿ. Ìåñòíûå ïðàçäíèêè è ÿðìàðêè, êîòîðûå åæåãîäíî âîçðîæäàþò èñêîííûå íðàâû è îáû÷àè. Ïåðåáèðàÿ íàèáîëåå âàæíûå, íåëüçÿ íå îñòàíîâèòüñÿ íà Ñî÷åëüíèêå Ðîæäåñòâà, êîãäà æèòåëè Ñèàòèñòà ðàçâîäÿò íà äîðîãàõ êîñòðû è òàíöóþò âîêðóã íèõ, èëè â ïðàçäíèê Êðåùåíèÿ, ïðîâîäÿò ïðàçäíèê «Áóáóñàðèÿ», ñ îáèëüíûì âèíîì è çàõâàòûâàþùèì äóõ òàíöàìè. Íà ïðàçäíèê Óñïåíèÿ Áîãîðîäèöû â
ÓéÜôéóôá/ Siatista/ Ñèàòèñòà ôá, ÷ôéóìÝíá áðü ôïõò öçìéóìÝíïõò íôüðéïõò ëéèïîüïõò, ìå åõäéÜêñéôåò ôéò åðéññïÝò áðü üëç ó÷åäüí ôçí Åõñþðç, ìÝñç ðïõ ôáîßäåõóáí, óõíáíáóôñÜöçêáí êáé äïýëåøáí ïé Óéáôéóôéíïß ìáóôüñïé. Åíôõðùóéáêü åóùôåñéêü, ìå ìïôßâá óå ãÞéíá ÷ñþìáôá ìå èÝìáôá áðü ôçí ÅëëçíéêÞ ìõèïëïãßá, áëëÜ êáé áðåéêïíßóåéò áðü æþá öõôÜ êáé óêçíÝò êõíçãéïý, ôáâÜíéá óêáëéóôÜ ðåñßôå÷íá ìå ó÷Ýäéá ðïõ åðßóçò åíôõðùóéÜæïõí óôçí ëåðôïìÝñåéÜ ôïõò. Ôá ðéï ïíïìáóôÜ áð´ áõôÜ åßíáé ôçò “Ðïýëêùò”, ôïõ “Íåñáíôæüðïõëïõ”, ôïõ “Ìáíïýóç”, ôï “Ëáïãñáöéêü ìïõóåßï óôï áñ÷ïíôéêü Äüëêçñá”, ôïõ Ìïñöùôéêïý êáé Ðïëéôéóôéêïý Óõëëüãïõ ÓéÜôéóôáò «Ìáñêßäåò Ðïýëéïõ», ìå ðëïýóéï ëáïãñáöéêü õëéêü áðü ôçí æùÞ ôùí êáôïßêùí ôçò ÓéÜôéóôáò. ¼ðùò âÝâáéá áíáöïñÜ ðñÝðåé íá êÜíïõìå êáé ãéá ôç ãïýíá, Üëëï óÞìá êáôáôåèÝí ôçò åõñýôåñçò ðåñéï÷Þò, åêôéìþ üôé ãïõíïðïéßá êáé ÓéÜôéóôá åßíáé Ýííïéåò ðáñÜëëçëåò, ìå ìéá áìößäñïìç éóôïñéêÜ ðïñåßá ðïõ áñ÷ßæåé êÜðïõ óôéò áñ÷Ýò ôïõ 14ïõ áéþíá êáé öèÜíåé óôéò çìÝñåò ìáò. Ç åðåîåñãáóßá ôçò ãïýíáò êáé ôïõ äÝñìáôïò åßíáé ìéá ôÝ÷íç ðïõ êëçñïäïôåßôáé áðü ãåíéÜ óå ãÝíéá, áêëïõèþíôáò ôïõò ðáëìïýò êáé ôçí ðïñåßá ôçò ðüëçò, êÜíïíôáò ôç ÓéÜôéóôá ãíùóôÞ ó´ üëï ôïí êüóìï, äßíïíôáò ôç, ìéá öÞìç ðïõ ìÝ÷ñé êáé óÞìåñá ï áðüç÷üò ôçò åßíáé óçìáíôéêüò. Êáé âÝâáéá ç ãïõíïðïéßá õðÞñîå ìå ìéêñÝò áðïêëßóåéò ï ïéêïíïìéêüò áéìïäüôçò ôùí êáôïßêùí, ó÷åäüí óôï óýíïëü ôïõò, ôùí êáôïßêùí ïé ïðïßïé åðÝíäõóáí ó´ áõôÞí, äçìéïõñãþíôáò âéïôå÷íßåò êáé óçìåßá ðþëçóçò. Of course we should also mention the fur industry, another land mark of the broader area, the fur industry and Siatista are parallel stories and their reciprocal course in history starts in the beginning of the 14th century up to the present time. Fur and leather processing are an art passing from one generation to another following the pulse and the evolution of the city, making Siatista a renowned city worldwide, with a reputation that echoes even nowadays. Certainly, the fur industry has been the financial resource of almost all the inhabitants who invested on it, establishing small industries and points of sale. In Siatista life has an unusual quick pace. There is excess energy imprinted in the activities of the inhabitants. Cultural events constitute an important part of them. Local celebrations and festivals revive old customs every year. Thinking of the most important ones, we should mention Christmas Eve when the people of Siatista light big bonfires in the streets and dance around them, or the day of the Epiphany when “Boubousaria” revive, with abundant wine and a very impressive jumping dance. On August àâãóñòå, ìíîãèå âñàäíèêè, «ïðàçäíóþùèå» íà óêðàøåííûõ ëîøàäÿõ, ïîñëå áîãîñëóæåíèÿ â ìîíàñòûðå Ìèêðîêàñòðî, âîçâðàùàþòñÿ â ãîðîä, ãäå èõ æä¸ò òåïëûé ïðèåì. Ïðèìå÷àòåëüíû êóëüòóðíûå ìåðîïðèÿòèÿ àâãóñòà, êîòîðûå ïðîâîäèò ìóíèöèïàëèòåò â ðàìêàõ ðàçëè÷íûõ âûñòóïëåíèé. Ìåñòíàÿ êóõíÿ ïðåâîñõîäíà, íå íåìíîãî òÿæåëà, âî âñÿêîì ñëó÷àå, ïîïðîáóéòå ìÿñî ãîäîâàëîé îâöû, ïðèãîòîâëåííîå â ãëèíÿíîì ãîðøêå, êåáàá èç áàðàíèíû, è òðàäèöèîííûå ãîëóáöû «ñàðìàäàêèà».  ñûðîäåëüíå «Áóðèíîñ» ìîæíî êóïèòü êîçèé ñûð, òðàäèöèîííûé Áàäæî, òâîðîã è ñëèâî÷íûé ñûð. À íà äåñåðò îáÿçàòåëüíî ïîïðîáóéòå çíàìåíèòóþ ñëàäîñòü «Ñàëèàðèà»
94 betterfly magazine
Óôç ÓéÜôéóôá ç æùÞ Ý÷åé ßóùò Ýíáí áóõíÞèéóôá ãñÞãïñï ñõèìü. ¸÷åé ìéá ðåñéóóÞ åíÝñãåéá ðïõ áðïôõðþíåôáé óôéò äñáóôçñéüôçôåò ôùí Óéáôéóôéíþí. Óçìáíôéêü ìÝñïò áõôþí áðïôåëïýí ïé ðïëéôéóôéêÝò åêäçëþóåéò. ÔïðéêÝò ãéïñôÝò êáé ðáíçãýñéá ðïõ áíáâéþíïõí êÜèå ÷ñüíï ôá ðáôñïãïíéêÜ Þèç êáé Ýèéìá. Óôá÷õïëïãþíôáò ôá ðéï óçìáíôéêÜ äåí ìðïñåß ðáñÜ íá óôáèïýìå óôçí ðáñáìïíÞ ôùí ×ñéóôïõãÝííùí ðïõ ïé Óéáôéóôéíïß áíÜâïõí óôïõò äñüìïõò ìåãÜëåò öùôéÝò êáé ÷ïñåýïõí ãýñù áð áõôÝò Þ áíÞìåñá ôá Öþôá ðïõ áíáâéþíïõí ôï «ÌðïõìðïõóÜñéá», ìå ôï êñáóß íá ñÝåé êáé ôïí “ðçäç÷ôü ÷ïñü” íá êëÝâåé ôçí ðáñÜóôáóç. Ôïí Äåêáðåíôáýãïõóôï, ðïëëïß êáâáëÜñçäåò, ïé «Ðáíçãõñéþôåò» ìå óôïëéóìÝíá Üëïãá, áöïý ðñïóêõíÞóïõí óôï ìïíáóôÞñé ôïõ Ìéêñüêáóôñïõ, åðéóôñÝöïõí óôçí ðüëç üðïõ ôïõò ãßíåôáé èåñìÞ õðïäï÷Þ. Áîéïóçìåßùôïò åßíáé êáé ï «ðïëéôéóôéêüò Áýãïõóôïò» ðïõ äéïñãáíþíåé ï ÄÞìïò ìå ìéá óåéñÜ ðïëõìïñöéêÝò åêäçëþóåéò. Ç íôüðéá êïõæßíá åßíáé åîáéñåôéêÞ, áí êáé ëßãï âáñéÜ, üðùò êáé íÜ÷åé äïêéìÜóôå æõãïýñé óôç óôÜìíá, êåìðÜð ðñüâåéï, êáé ôõëé÷ôÜ óáñìáäÜêéá. Óôï ôõñïêïìåßï ôïõ "Ìðïõñßíïõ" ìðïñåßôå íá ðñïìçèåõôåßôå êáôóéêßóéï ôõñß, ðáñáäïóéáêü ìðÜôæéï, ìõæÞèñá êáé ìáíïýñé. Êáé ãéá åðéäüñðéï, ßóùò äåí ðñÝðåé íá ðáñáëåßøåôå íá äïêéìÜóåôå ôá ðåñßöçìá "ÓáëéÜñéá". ôï åñãáóôÞñé «ôïõ ÃéÜííç» äéáèÝôåé ôçí áõèåíôéêÞ óõíôáãÞ. ¢ñá êáé ôá êáëýôåñá. Óôéò åðéëïãÝò ãéá ôçí äéáìïíÞ, ï îåíþíáò «Óéáôéóôéíü Áñ÷ïíôáñßêé» åßíáé üëá ôá ëåöôÜ ìå ôçí áåéêßíçôç Öñüóù, ôçí éäéïêôÞôñéá, ëáëßóôáôç êáé ðáíôá÷ïý ðáñïýóá, åíþ êáé ôï hotel Iberis ÷ôéóìÝíï óôçí ðëáãéÜ ôïõ ëüöïõ, åßíáé áîéüðéóôï ìå ðáíÝìïñöç èÝá óôç ðüëç. ÐñïöÝñåôáé éâåñßò, éâåñßò åßíáé ôï üíïìá åíüò óðÜíéïõ ëïõëïõäéïý ðïõ öõôñþíåé ìüíï óôéò ðëáãéÝò áðü ôá âïõíÜ ðïõ ðåñéâÜëëïõí ôçí ÓéÜôéóôá. 15th, many riders, “Panygiriotes” on decorated horses, after a pilgrimage at the Mikrokastro monastery, return to the city where a warm welcome awaits them. It I worthwhile mentioning “cultural August' organized by the Town Halll with a series of multiple events. Local cuisine is exquisite though a bit heavy, in any case, please try «zygouri sti stamna», sheep kebab, and small wrapped wine leaves (“sarmadakia”). At “Bourinos” che-esehouse you can get goat cheese, traditional batzio, mizithra and manouri. For desert, do not forget to taste the famous “Saliaria” (sweets powdered with sugar and filled with nuts and spices), “Giannis' pastry workshop” has the genuine recipe, so there you can find the best ones. When choosing where to stay, “Siatistino Archontariki” is the best, with its lively owner, Frosso, talkative and omnipresent; then, hotel Iberis built on the hill slope is reliable and has a magnificent view of the city. It is pronounced iberís, as the name of a rare flower you can only see on the slopes of the mountains surrounding Siatista. èç êîíäèòåðñêîé ìàñòåðñêîé «Ó ßííèñà», êîòîðàÿ èñïîëüçóåò ïîäëèííûé ðåöåïò, à çíà÷èò íàèëó÷øóþ. ×òî êàñàåòñÿ ìåñòà ïðîæèâàíèÿ, ñòîÿùèì âûáîðîì ÿâëÿåòñÿ ïàíñèîí «Ñèàòèñòèíî Àðõîíäàðèêè» ñ íåóñòàííîé, îáùèòåëüíîé è âåçäå ïðèñóòñòâóþùåé õîçÿéêîé Ôðîñî, à òàêæå ãîñòèíèöà «Èáåðèñ», ïîñòðîåííàÿ íà ñêëîíå õîëìà, ÿâëÿåòñÿ íàäåæíûé, ñ êðàñèâûì âèäîì íà ãîðîä. Ïðîèçíîñèòñÿ Èâåðèñ, èâåðèñ ýòî íàçâàíèå îäíîãî ðåäêîãî öâåòêà, êîòîðûé ðàñòåò òîëüêî íà ñêëîíàõ ãîð, îêðóæàþùèõ Ñèàòèñòà.
ÊáóôïñéÜ/ Kastoria/ Êàñòîðüÿ
ÊáóôïñéÜ “ç ðüëç ôçò ëßìíçò” Kastoria, “the city of the lake” Êàñòîðüÿ “ïðèîçåðíûé ãîðîä” “Äýï åëëçíéêÝò ðüëåéò óôï Ôop-10 ôçò Åõñþðçò”
“Two Greek cities make Europe's Top 10”
“Äâà ãðå÷åñêèõ ãîðîäà â äåñÿòêå ëó÷øèõ ãîðîäîâ Åâðîïû”
Äýï åëëçíéêÝò ðüëåéò, ç ÊáóôïñéÜ êáé ôá ÉùÜííéíá ðåñéëáìâÜíïíôáé óôç ëßóôá ìå ôéò äÝêá ïìïñöüôåñåò ðáñáëßìíéåò ðüëåéò ôçò Åõñþðçò. Ïé öùôïãñáößåò ôùí ðüëåùí áõôþí, óõíïäåõüìåíåò áðü êïëáêåõôéêÜ ó÷üëéá, êÜíïõí Þäç ôï ãýñï ôùí ìåãáëýôåñùí ìÝóùí åíçìÝñùóçò óå üëï ôïí êüóìï. Ìéá åßäçóç ìå «åéäéêü ôïõñéóôéêü âÜñïò» ãéá äýï ðñÜãìáôé ðáíÝìïñöåò ðüëåéò ìå îå÷ùñéóôü áôìïóöáéñéêü ìðáãêñÜïõíô, ðïõ ç Ýííïéá ðñïïñéóìüò ôåóóÜñùí åðï÷þí äåí ìðïñåß ðáñÜ íá åßíáé áðïëýôùò óõìâáôÞ. Ãéá ôçí ãïçôåõôéêÞ ðüëç ôçò ÊáóôïñéÜò Ý÷åé ÷õèåß ðñïöáíþò ðïëý ìåëÜíé. ¸ôóé ôïýôï ôï Üñèñï ðéèáíüí íá âáäßóåé óå Þäç ðåðáôçìÝíá ìïíïðÜôéá ó÷åôéêÜ ìå ôïí ôüðï, ôçí éóôïñßá ôïõ, ôçí áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞ ôïõ êëçñïíïìéÜ, ôï ðïëéôéóôéêü ôïõ õðüâáèñï, ôéò áíèñþðéíåò ðáñåìâÜóåéò ãéá ôçí áíÜäåéîç ôïõ ðáíÝìïñöïõ öõóéêïý ôïðßïõ, ôçí êïõëôïýñá ôùí êáôïßêùí ðïõ áíáäåéêíýåôáé ìÝóá áðü ôïí óåâáóìü ôçò ðáñÜäïóçò êáé ôçò õéïèÝôçóçò êÜèå ìïñöÞò óýã÷ñïíùí êáëëéôå÷íéêþí ñåõìÜôùí.
Two Greek cities, Kastoria and Ioannina, are on the list of the 10 most beautiful lakeside cities in Europe. Photographs of these cities, accompanied by complimentary captions, are already being promoted in the mass media around the world. This news is particularly significant to the tourism industry as it is about two truly beautiful cities, each with a different atmospheric background and both being the epitome of a four-season destination. Clearly a lot of ink has been spent writing about the city of Kastoria. So this article may quite likely be following a much-trodden path in terms of the place, its history, its architectural heritage, its cultural background, the human interventions made to promote the stunning natural landscape and the culture of its inhabitants, which is evident in their respect to tradition and adoption of all forms of modern artistic trends. So in this sense, there will probably be no innovations on my part.
Äâà ãðå÷åñêèõ ãîðîäà, Êàñòîðüÿ è Èîàííèíà ïî ïðàâó âêëþ÷åíû â ñïèñîê äåñÿòè ñàìûõ êðàñèâûõ ïðèîçåðíûõ ãîðîäîâ Åâðîïû. Ôîòîãðàôèè ýòèõ ãîðîäîâ, ñ ñàìûìè ëåñòíûìè êîììåíòàðèÿìè, îáîøëè êðóïíåéøèå ÑÌÈ ìèðà. Ýòè äâà êðàñèâåéøèõ ãîðîäà Ãðåöèè, íå ïîõîæèå íè íà êàêîé äðóãîé ãîðîä, ãîòîâû ïðèíÿòü ãîñòåé â ëþáîå âðåìÿ ãîäà. Î ñêàçî÷íîì ãîðîäå Êàñòîðüÿ íàïèñàíî ìíîæåñòâî ñòàòåé. Òàêèì îáðàçîì, è ýòà ñòàòüÿ, ñêîðåå âñåãî, óæå ïðîòîðåííàÿ òðîïèíêà îòíîñèòåëüíî îïèñàíèÿ èñòîðèè, àðõèòåêòóðû, êóëüòóðíîãî ôîíà, âìåøàòåëüñòâà ÷åëîâåêà äëÿ òîãî, ÷òîáû ïðîäåìîíñòðèðîâàòü êðàñèâóþ ïðèðîäíóþ ñðåäó, êóëüòóðó æèòåëåé, ñëåäóþùóþ èç óâàæåíèÿ ê òðàäèöèÿì è ïðèíÿòèÿ âñåõ ôîðì ñîâðåìåííûõ õóäîæåñòâåííûõ ñòèëåé. Âðÿä ëè â ýòîì ñìûñëå, ÿ âíåñó êàêîå-òî íîâøåñòâî. Òàêèì îáðàçîì, ÿ ïðåäîñòàâëþ íåêîòîðûå ãåîïîëèòè÷åñêèå äàííûå î ãîðîäå, ñäåëàþ êðàòêèé îáçîð ìóçååâ ãîðîäà, è îñòàíîâëþñü îñîáåííî íà äåéñòâóþùåé â íàñòîÿùåå âðåìÿ «Ïåùåðå Äðàêîíà», êîòîðàÿ ÿâëÿåòñÿ ãëàâíîé äîñòîïðèìå÷àòåëüíîñòüþ è ïðèâëåêàåò åæåãîäíî òûñÿ÷è òóðèñòîâ. Çàâåðøàÿ ñâîå
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ÊáóôïñéÜ/ Kastoria/ Êàñòîðüÿ Õð´ áõôÞ ôçí Ýííïéá ëïéðüí ìÜëëïí äåí ðñüêåéôáé íá êáéíïôïìÞóù. ¸ôóé êÜðïéá óôïé÷åßá ãåùðïëéôéêÜ èá äþóù, ìéá áíáöïñÜ ó÷åôéêÜ åðéãñáììáôéêÞ èá êÜíù óôá ìïõóåßá ôçò ðüëçò, èá ìéëÞóù éäéáßôåñá ãéá ôï «óðÞëáéï ôïõ ÄñÜêïõ» ðïõ áîéïðïéÞèçêå êáé áðïôåëåß ðëÝïí êáé áõôü Ýíá óçìáíôéêü áîéïèÝáôï óôçí «öáñÝôñá» ôçò ôïõñéóôéêÞò ðñïâïëÞò ôçò ðüëçò. Êáé èá êëåßóù ìå ìéá óåéñÜ ðïëéôéóôéêÝò äéáäñïìÝò ðïõ õëïðïéåß óáí äñÜóç ç êïéíùöåëÞò åðé÷åßñçóç ôïõ äÞìïõ ÊáóôïñéÜò, åóôéÜæïíôáò óôçí ðáñïõóßáóç ôçò óõíáñðáóôéêÞò ëéìíáßáò äéáäñïìÞò ìå ôï Ýíá êáé ìïíáäéêü åéäéêÜ äéáññõèìéóìÝíï ôïõñéóôéêü óêÜöïò, ìéá ðñáãìáôéêÜ Ýîï÷ç ðñüôáóç ãéá êÜèå åðéóêÝðôç. Á! íáé êáé ôï ìåóáéùíéêü öåóôéâÜë ç «ÁëåîéÜäá» èá ìáò áðáó÷ïëÞóåé óå ôïýôï ôï óçìåßùìá. Ç «ÁëåîéÜäá» áõôÞ ç öéëüäïîç ðáñÝìâáóç, ðïõ Ý÷åé åîåëé÷èåß ó Ýíáí ðïëéôéóôéêü èåóìü ìå ðïëëÜ óõí óôï âéïãñáöéêü ôïõ. Åðßëïãïò ôá ÑáãêïõôóÜñéá, åäþ ôá ëüãéá ìÜëëïí åßíáé ðåñéôôÜ èá Ýëåãá, ðñÝðåé êáíåßò íá «æÞóåé» ôçí üëç äéáäéêáóßá ãéá íá Ý÷åé Üðïøç. Ç ðüëç ôçò ÊáóôïñéÜò, ðñùôåýïõóá ôïõ Íïìïý ÊáóôïñéÜò, âñßóêåôáé êôéóìÝíç ðÜíù óå ÷åñóüíçóï ðïõ áãêáëéÜæåôáé áðü ôç ëßìíç «ÏñåóôéÜäá». Âñßóêåôáé óôï Üêñï ôçò ÄõôéêÞò Ìáêåäïíßáò êáé óõíïñåýåé âüñåéá ìå ôï íïìü Öëþñéíáò, áíáôïëéêÜ ìå ôï íïìü Ãñåâåíþí, íïôéïáíáôïëéêÜ ìå ôï íïìü ÊïæÜíçò, íïôéïäõôéêÜ ìå ôï íïìü Éùáííßíùí êáé äõôéêÜ ìå ôçí Áëâáíßá. ÓÞìåñá ç ÊáóôïñéÜ áðïôåëåß Ýíá óýã÷ñïíï áíåðôõãìÝíï êÝíôñï ðïõ êáôáôÜóóåôáé óôçí êáôçãïñßá ôùí ìåóáßùí Åëëçíéêþí ðüëåùí ìå âÜóç ôïí ðëçèõóìü êáé ôçí ïéêïíïìéêÞ ôçò êáôÜóôáóç. Îåêéíþíôáò ôçí åéêïíéêÞ ðåñéÞãçóç ìáò ó´ áõôü ôï ïäïéðïñéêü, èá åðéëÝîïõìå óáí áöåôçñßá ôá ðïëý åíäéáöÝñïíôá ìïõóåßá ôçò ðüëçò êáé ôçò ãýñù ðåñéï÷Þò ÁõôÜ, ìå ìéá ðñïóùðéêÞ ôáîéíüìçóç åßíáé.. ÂÕÆÁÍÔÉÍÏ: Âñßóêåôáé óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ Îåíßá. Óôá åêèÝìáôá ôïõ óõìðåñéëáìâÜíïíôáé ìåñéêÜ áðü ôá ðëÝïí óðÜíéá äåßãìáôá ôçò ÂõæáíôéíÞò áãéïãñáößáò óôç ìïñöÞ êéíçôþí îõëüãëõðôùí åéêüíùí Ôçë : 2467026781 ËÁÏÃÑÁÖÉÊÏ: Óôç óõíïéêßá Íôïëôóü, ôï áñ÷ïíôéêü ÍåñÜíôæç - ÁúâÜæç ôïõ 17ïõ áéþíá, áíáðáñéóôÜ ôç æùÞ êáé ôï íïéêïêõñéü ôùí ðáëéþí Êáóôïñéáíþí. Ôçë : 2467028603 ÅÍÄÕÌÁÔÏËÏÃÉÊÏ: Óôï áñ÷ïíôéêü ôùí Áöþí ÅììáíïõÞë óôï Íôïëôóü, óõíáíôÜìå ìéá êáëÜ ïñãáíùìÝíç óõëëïãÞ åíäõìáóéþí ôçò ðáëéÜò ÊáóôïñéÜò. Ôçë : 2467028603 ÄÅËÇÍÁÍÅÉÏ: Êáé áõôü óôç óõíïéêßá Íôïëôóü. ÐåñéëáìâÜíåé åñãü÷åéñá, õöáíôÜ êáé åßäç íïéêïêõñéïý ôùí ôåëåõôáßùí áéþíùí êáèþò êáé ðëïýóéï öùôïãñáöéêü õëéêü. Ôçë : 2467022108 ÌÏÕÓÅÉÏ ÌÁÊÅÄÏÍÉÊÏÕ ÁÃÙÍÁ: Âñßóêåôáé óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ Íôïëôóü êáé óôåãÜæåôáé óôï áñ÷ïíôéêü Ðç÷åþí. Ôçë: 2467021144 ÌÏÕÓÅÉÏ ÔÏÕ ÐÁÕËÏÕ ÌÅËÁ: Âñßóêåôáé óôï ÷ùñéü ÌåëÜò êáé ó÷åôßæåôáé ìå ôç æùÞ ôïõ ðñùôåñãÜôç ôïõ Ìáêåäïíéêïý Áãþíá, Ðáýëïõ ÌåëÜ. Ôçë: 2467084554 ÌÏÕÓÅÉÏ ÊÅÑÉÍÙÍ ÏÌÏÉÙÌÁÔÙÍ, ËÁÏÃÑÁÖÉÁÓ & ÐÑÏÚÓÔÏÑÉÁÓ: Âñßóêåôáé
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Therefore I will provide some geopolitical information on the city, I will briefly mention the museums of the city, I will make special reference to the Dragon's Cave, which has been developed and now constitutes an important sight in the “quiver” of the city's tourism promotion, and I will close with a series of cultural routes implemented as part of an action taken by the municipal enterprise of the Municipality of Kastoria, focusing on the presentation of the fascinating lake route travelled on the one and only, specially-designed tourist craft, an excellent suggestion for any visitor. Oh, one more thing, the Alexiada medieval festival will also be covered in this note. This ambitious cultural intervention known by the name of Alexiada has evolved into a cultural institution with many positive characteristics to boast about. The epilogue will feature the Ragoutsaria carnival, which cannot be described by words. One must first experience it before venturing an opinion.
ïîâåñòâîâàíèå, ÿ îñòàíîâëþñü íà ðÿäå êóëüòóðíûõ ìàðøðóòîâ, êîòîðûå ðåàëèçóåò àäìèíèñòðàöèÿ ã. Êàñòîðüÿ, àêöåíòèðóÿ âíèìàíèå íà ïðåçåíòàöèè óâëåêàòåëüíîãî ïóòåøåñòâèÿ ïî îçåðó íà ñïåöèàëüíî îáîðóäîâàííîì äëÿ ýòîãî òóðèñòè÷åñêîì ñóäíå, êîòîðîå ìîæåò ñòàòü ïî-íàñòîÿùåìó îòëè÷íûì ïðåäëîæåíèåì äëÿ êàæäîãî ïîñåòèòåëÿ! Ê âàøåìó âíèìàíèþ è ñðåäíåâåêîâûé ôåñòèâàëü «Àëåêñèàäà». «Àëåêñèàäà» - ýòî ìàñøòàáíîå êóëüòóðíîå ñîáûòèå, ïîñâÿùåííîå ñðåäíåâåêîâîé âèçàíòèéñêîé êóëüòóðå. Ýïèëîã ïîâåñòâîâàíèÿ êàðíàâàë «Ðàãóöàðüÿ». Òóò êîììåíòàðèè èçëèøíè, íóæíî ñàìîìó ïðî÷óâñòâîâàòü âåñü ýòîò ïðàçäíèê, ÷òîáû èìåòü ñâîå ìíåíèå. Ãîðîä Êàñòîðüÿ, ñòîëèöà îáëàñòè Êàñòîðüÿ, ïîñòðîåí íà ïîëóîñòðîâå, îìûâàåìîì âûñîêîãîðíûì îçåðîì Îðåñòèàäà. Îí ðàñïîëîæåí íà îêðàèíå Çàïàäíîé Ìàêåäîíèè è ñ ñåâåðà ãðàíè÷èò ñ îáëàñòüþ Ôëîðèíà, ñ âîñòîêà ñ îáëàñòüþ Ãðåâåíà, ñ þãî-âîñòîêà ñ îáëàñòüþ
Êîçàíè, ñ þãî-çàïàäà ñ îáëàñòüþ Èîàííèíà è ñ çàïàäà ñ Àëáàíèåé. Íà ñåãîäíÿøíèé äåíü Êàñòîðüÿ ÿâëÿåòñÿ ðàçâèòûì ñîâðåìåííûì öåíòðîì, êîòîðûé ïî ÷èñëåííîñòè íàñåëåíèÿ è ýêîíîìè÷åñêîìó ñòàòóñó îòíîñèòñÿ ê ÷èñëó ñðåäíèõ ãðå÷åñêèõ ãîðîäîâ. Íà÷èíàÿ íàø âèðòóàëüíûé òóð ïî ýòîìó ìàðøðóòó, â êà÷åñòâå îòïðàâíîé òî÷êè ìû âûáåðåì èíòåðåñíûå ìóçåè ãîðîäà è áëèçëèæàéøåãî ðåãèîíà: ÂÈÇÀÍÒÈÉÑÊÈÉ ÌÓÇÅÉ ðàñïîëîæåí â ðàéîíå Êñåíèÿ. Ñðåäè åãî ýêñïîíàòîâ óíèêàëüíàÿ êîëëåêöèÿ âèçàíèéñêèõ èêîí, ðàíåå óêðàøàâøèõ õðàìû ãîðîäà. Òåë.: 2467026781. ÝÒÍÎÃÐÀÔÈ×ÅÑÊÈÉ ÌÓÇÅÉ ðàñïîëîæåí â ïîñåëêå Äîëüöî.  ýêñïîçèöèÿõ îñîáíÿêà 17ãî âåêà Íåðàíäçè-Àéâàçè, ãäå ñåãîäíÿ ðàçìåùàåòñÿ ýòíîãðàôè÷åñêèé ìóçåé ãîðîäà, ïðåäìåòû áûòà, îäåæäà, îðóäèÿ òðóäà è äðóãèå ïðåäìåòû, êîòîðûìè ïîëüçîâàëèñü â ñòàðûõ óñàäüáàõ. Òåë.: 2467028603.
ÌÓÇÅÉ ÊÎÑÒÞÌΠíàõîäèòñÿ â ðàéîíå Äîëüöî, â îñîáíÿêå áðàòüåâ Ýììàíóèë. Âêëþ÷àåò áîãàòóþ êîëëåêöèþ îäåæäû ñòàðèííûõ Êàñòîðüèíñêèõ êîñòþìîâ. Òåë.: 2467028603. ÌÓÇÅÉ ÄÅËÈÍÀÍÈÎ íàõîäèòñÿ òàêæå â ðàéîíå Äîëüöî è ôóíêöèîíèðóåò ñ 1977 ãîäà, ïîä îïåêîé Áëàãîòâîðèòåëüíîãî îáùåñòâà. Ñâîè ýêñïîíàòû ìóçåé ÷åðïàåò èç ñóíäóêîâ ñòàðûõ Êàñòîðüèíîê, õðàíÿùèõ öåííóþ îäåæäó èëè ïðèäàííîå. Ìíîãèå ïðåäìåòû, óòðàòèâøèå ñâîþ ïîëåçíîñòü â áûòó ñ ðàçâèòèåì òåõíèêè, íî öåííûå ñ òî÷êè çðåíèÿ ôîëüêëîðíîãî èñòîðè÷åñêîãî ïîäõîäà òàêæå áûëè ïîæåðòâîâàíû äëÿ íóæä ìóçåÿ. Òåë.: 2467022108.
óôï Ìáõñï÷þñé, óôçí ðëáôåßá ôïõ ÷ùñéïý ìå ðïéêéëßá åêèåìÜôùí. Åðßóçò óõóôåãÜæåôáé êáé ç óõëëïãÞ ìå ìéêñïãñáößåò ìíçìåßùí ôïõ ê. Íßêïõ Ðéóôéêïý. Ôçë:2467074870/6970392196. ÌåôÜ ôá ìïõóåßá åðüìåíïò óôáèìüò ìáò åßíáé ôï «ÓÐÇËÁÉÏ ÔÏÕ ÄÑÁÊÏÕ.» Ôï óðÞëáéï âñßóêåôáé óôç âüñåéá ðëåõñÜ ôçò ðüëçò óôï 2ï ÷ëì ôçò ðáñáëßìíéáò ïäïý Óïõããáñßäç êáé ëßãï ðñéí áðü ôçí ÌïíÞ ôçò Ðáíáãßáò Ìáõñéþôéóóáò. Ç åßóïäïò áðÝ÷åé ðåñßðïõ åßêïóé ìÝôñá áðü ôéò ü÷èåò ôçò ëßìíçò êáé äÝêá ôÝóóåñá ìÝôñá áðü ôïí äñüìï. Óôï åóùôåñéêü ôïõ õðÜñ÷ïõí ìåãÜëá ÷åñóáßá êáé ëéìíáßá ôìÞìáôá ìå åíôõðùóéáêü óôáëáêôéêü äéÜêïóìï êáèþò ðåñéëáìâÜíåé åðôÜ õðüãåéåò ëßìíåò, äÝêá áßèïõóåò êáé ðÝíôå äéáäñüìïõò óÞñáããåò. Ç ìåãáëýôåñç áßèïõóá ôïõ óðçëáßïõ Ý÷åé äéáóôÜóåéò 45×17 ìÝôñá ìå ôï êåíôñéêü ôçò ôìÞìá õðåñõøùìÝíï êáé ôéò ðëåõñÝò ôçò íá êáôáëÞãïõí óå ëßìíåò. Ç ìåãÜëç ëßìíç ôïõ óðçëáßïõ, ðïõ åßíáé êáé ç âáèýôåñç, âñßóêåôáé äõôéêÜ. Ç èåñìïêñáóßá åíôüò ôïõ Óðçëáßïõ åßíáé óôáèåñÞ üëåò ôéò
The city of Kastoria, which is also the capital of Kastoria Prefecture, is built on a peninsula that is embraced by Lake «Orestiada». It is located in the far end of West Macedonia and borders with Florina Prefecture in the north, Grevena Prefecture in the east, Kozani Prefecture in the southeast, Ioannina Prefecture in the southwest and Albania in the west. Kastoria is currently considered as a modern, developed centre coming under the category of middle Greek cities based on its population and financial status. We will begin our virtual tour with the highly interesting museums of the city and surrounding area. In my personal order of preference, these include the: BYZANTINE MUSEUM: Located in the Xenia district. Its exhibits include some of the rarest samples of Byzantine religious painting in the form of movable woodcuts. Tel.: 2467026781 FOLKLORE MUSEUM: In the Doltso dis-
ÌÓÇÅÉ ÌÀÊÅÄÎÍÑÊÎÉ ÁÎÐÜÁÛ íàõîäèòñÿ òàêæå â ðàéîíå Äîëüöî â îñîáíÿêå Ìåéñîíå Ïèõåîí.  ìóçåå ìîæíî óâèäåòü ìíîãî ôîòîãðàôèé âðåì¸í Ìàêåäîíñêîé áîðüáû è ïðî÷èå ðåëèêâèè, ïåðåäàííûå â õðàíåíèå ìóçåþ ïîòîìêàìè áîéöîâ ó÷àñòíèêîâ Ìàêåäîíñêîé áîðüáû òàê íàçûâàåìûõ ìàêåäîíîìàõîâ. Òåë.: 24670 21144. ÌÓÇÅÉ ÏÀÂËÎÑÀ ÌÅËÀÑÀ íàõîäèòñÿ â îäíîèì¸ííîé Êàñòîðüèíñêîé äåðåâíå Ìåëàñ. Ñîäåðæàíèå ìóçåÿ âêëþ÷àåò äàííûå êàñàòåëüíî æèçíè ÿðêîé ëè÷íîñòè è ëèäåðà ìàêåäîíñêîé áîðüáû ìàêåäîíîìàõà Ïàâëîñà Ìåëàñà, ïîãèáøåãî ñîâñåì ìîëîäûì è íàçâàííîãî âðàãà ñàìîãî òóðåöêîãî ñóëòàíà. Òåë.: 2467084554.
ÌÓÇÅÉ ÂÎÑÊÎÂÛÕ ÔÈÃÓÐ, ÔÎËÜÊËÎÐÀ È ÄÎÈÑÒÎÐÈ×ÅÑÊÎÃÎ ÂÐÅÌÅÍÈ ñ ìíîæåñòâîì ýêñïîíàòîâ áûë ñîçäàí â Êàñòîðüèíñêîì ñåëå Ìàâðîõîðè èçâåñòíûì ïåäàãîãîì è òàëàíòëèâûì õóäîæíèêîì Äèìèòðèñîì Ïàíàéîòèäèñîì.  ìóçåå òàêæå ðàçìåùåíà êîëëåêöèÿ ìèíèàòþð ïàìÿòíèêîâ Íèêîñà Ïèñòèêó. Òåë.: 24670 74870 / 6970392196. Ïîñëå ìóçååâ íàøà ñëåäóþùàÿ îñòàíîâêà «ÏÅÙÅÐA ÄÐAÊÎÍA». Ïåùåðà íàõîäèòñÿ â ñåâåðíîé ÷àñòè ãîðîäà íà 2-îì êì. ïðèîçåðíîé
ÊáóôïñéÜ/ Kastoria/ Êàñòîðüÿ åðï÷Ýò óôïõò 16-18Ïc, åíþ ç õãñáóßá öôÜíåé óôï 90%. Óôï åóùôåñéêü ôïõ «óðçëáßïõ ôïõ ÄñÜêïõ» åíôïðßóôçêáí ðáëáéïíôïëïãéêÜ êáôÜëïéðá, ìå êõñéüôåñá ôá ïóôÜ óðçëáßáò Üñêôïõ (Ursus Speleaus). Ôï åßäïò áõôü Ýæçóå óôçí Åõñþðç êáôÜ ôç äéÜñêåéá ôïõ Ðëåéóôüêáéíïõ êáé åîáöáíßóôçêå ðñéí áðü ðåñßðïõ 10.000 ÷ñüíéá... Ç áíáêÜëõøç ôïõ óðçëáßïõ Ýãéíå óôç äåêáåôßá ôïõ 40 áðü Êáóôïñéáíïýò åñáóéôÝ÷íåò åîåñåõíçôÝò, ðïõ áíáêÜëõøáí êáé ðåñéÝãñáøáí ôï áðáñÜìéëëçò ïìïñöéÜò óðÞëáéï êáé Ýñéîáí ôçí ðñþôç éäÝá ãéá ôçí áîéïðïßçóÞ ôïõ. Ôçí åðï÷Þ áõôÞ êáôáãñÜöåôáé êáé ï ìýèïò ãýñù áðü ôïí «ÄñÜêï» ôçò óðçëéÜò, áð' üðïõ êáé ôï üíïìÜ ôçò. Óýìöùíá ìå ôïí ìýèï ëïéðüí, ôï óðÞëáéï åäþ Ýêñõâå óôá ÝãêáôÜ ôïõ Ýíá ÷ñõóùñõ÷åßï ðïõ ôï öýëáãå Ýíáò ÄñÜêïò. Åî ïõ êáé ôï üíïìá… ¼ðùò åßíáé öõóéêü áêïëïýèçóáí êáé Üëëåò åîåñåõíÞóåéò, ïé ïðïßåò åíßó÷õáí ðÜíôá ôçí Üðïøç ðåñß êáôáëëçëüôçôáò ôïõ óðçëáßïõ ãéá áîéïðïßçóç. Åí ôÝëåé êáé ìåôÜ áðü ìéá óåéñÜ ðåñéðÝôåéåò ôï «óðÞëáéï ôïõ ÄñÜêïõ» Üíïéîå ôéò ðýëåò ôïõ ãéá ôï êïéíü óôéò 13 Äåêåìâñßïõ 2009. ¼ëåò ïé ðñïâëåðüìåíåò åñãáóßåò, ðñïêåéìÝíïõ ôï óðÞëáéï íá ãßíåé åðéóêÝøéìï, êáèþò êáé ç äéáìüñöùóç ôïõ ðåñéâÜëëïíôïò ÷þñïõ êáé ôùí êôéóìÜôùí ðïõ åîõðçñåôïýí ôçí üëç ëåéôïõñãßá ôïõ Óðçëáßïõ, õëïðïéÞèçêáí ìå Þðéåò ìåèüäïõò ðáñÝìâáóçò, åéäéêÜ óôï åóùôåñéêü ðñïêåéìÝíïõ íá ìçí áëëïéùèåß ï ðëïý-
trict the 17th century Nerantzi-Aivazi mansion recreates the life and households of the old inhabitants of Kastoria. Tel.: 2467028603 COSTUME MUSEUM: The Emmanouil mansion in Doltso features a well-organised collection of costumes from the old Kastoria. Tel.: 2467028603 DELINANEIO FOLKLORE MUSEUM: This, too, is in the Doltso district. It includes embroideries, woven items and household items dating back to past centuries, as well as a rich collection of photographs. Tel.: 2467022108 MUSEUM OF THE MACEDONIAN STRUGGLE: It is located in the Doltso district and is housed in the Picheon mansion. Tel.: 2467021144 PAVLOS MELAS MUSEUM: It is located in the Melas village and is associated with the life of Pavlos Melas, the architect behind the Macedonian Struggle. Tel: 2467084554 WAX, FOLKLORE & PREHISTORIC MUSEUM: It is located in the village square of Mavrochori and displays a variety of exhibits. Also housed in this museum is the collection of Mr Nikos Pistikos' collection of monument miniatures. Tel.: 2467074870 / 6970392196. After visiting the museums, our next stop is the DRAGON'S CAVE. äîðîãè Ñóãàðèäè íåäàëåêî îò ìîíàñòûðÿ Áîãîìàòåðè Ìàâðèîòèññà. Âõîä â íå¸ íàõîäèòñÿ ïðèáëèçèòåëüíî â äâàäöàòè ìåòðàõ îò áåðåãîâ îçåðà è ÷åòûðíàäöàòè ìåòðîâ îò äîðîãè. Ýòà ïåùåðà óíèêàëüíà è ÿâëÿåòñÿ åäèíñòâåííîé ïåùåðîé â Ãðåöèè, ñ ñåìüþ ïðåñíûìè ïîäçåìíûìè îçåðàìè è äåñÿòüþ çàëàìè ðàçëè÷íûõ ðàçìåðîâ (ñàìûé áîëüøîé 45õ17ì) è ïÿòüþ òîííåëÿìè. Ñàìîå áîëüøîå èç îçåð, êîòîðîå ÿâëÿåòñÿ è ñàìûì ãëóáîêèì, ðàñïîëîæåíî â çàïàäíîé ÷àñòè ïåùåðû. Òåìïåðàòóðà âíóòðè ïåùåðû ñòàáèëüíà â òå÷åíèå âñåãî ãîäà è ñîñòàâëÿåò 16- 18oC, îòíîñèòåëüíàÿ âëàæíîñòü âîçäóõà äîñòèãàåò 90%. Çäåñü áûëè îáíàðóæåíû êîñòè ïåùåðíûõ ìåäâåäåé (Ursus Speleaus), îáèòàâøèõ â Åâðîïå â Ïëåéñòîöåíîâóþ ýïîõó, âîçðàñò êîòîðûõ, ïî îöåíêàì ñïåöèàëèñòîâ, ñîñòàâëÿåò 10 000 ëåò. Äðåâíÿÿ ïåùåðà áûëà îáíàðóæåíà ìåñòíûìè èññëåäîâàòåëÿìèëþáèòåëÿìè â 40-õ ãîäàõ. Èìåííî îíè ï å ð â û ì è î ï è ñ à ë è ý ò î èñêëþ÷èòåëüíîé ïðèðîäíîé êðàñîòû ìåñòî è ïðåäëîæèëè èäåþ î åãî òóðèñòè÷åñêîé ýêñïëóàòàöèè. Âõîä â íåå èìååò ôîðìó ïàñòè äðàêîíà, áëàãîäàðÿ ÷åìó îíà è ïîëó÷èëà òàêîå íàçâàíèå. Õîòÿ, ñóùåñòâóåò ìåñòíàÿ ëåãåíäà, ñîãëàñíî êîòîðîé, â ïåùåðå íàõîäèëñÿ çîëîòîé ðóäíèê, êîòîðûé îõðàíÿë äðàêîí è åñëè êòî-òî ïûòàëñÿ ïðîíèêíóòü â ïåùåðó, äðàêîí
100 betterfly magazine
ÊáóôïñéÜ/ Kastoria/ Êàñòîðüÿ óéïò óôáëáêôéôéêüò äéÜêïóìïò, åíþ ïé åîùôåñéêÝò ðáñåìâÜóåéò Ý÷ïõí áñ÷éôåêôïíéêü ÷áñáêôÞñá ðïõ óÝâåôáé ôçí êáôáóêåõáóôéêÞ ðáñÜäïóç ìå ÷ñÞóç íôüðéùí õëéêþí óôéò üøåéò, ðÝôñá îýëá êáé Ýíèåôá äéáêïóìçôéêÜ êåñáìéêÜ. Ç îåíÜãçóç ãéá ôïí åðéóêÝðôç ðåñéëáìâÜíåé ìéá öõóéêÞ äéáäñïìÞ ìÞêïõò 300 ðåñßðïõ ìÝôñùí, åíþ ç Ýîïäïò ôïõ åðéóêÝðôç ãßíåôáé ìÝóù ôå÷íçôÞò óÞñáããáò 35ì. Ç öõóéêÞ ïìïñöéÜ ôçò äéáäñïìÞò ïöåßëåôáé óôïí ðëïýóéï óôáëáêôéôéêü êáé óôáëáãìéôéêü äéÜêïóìï êáé ôéò ôÝóóåñéò ëßìíåò ðïõ óõíáíôÜìå. Ï åðéóêÝðôçò ðåñíÜ üìïñöá êáôáóêåõáóìÝíåò ãÝöõñåò, äýï óõìðáãåßò êáé ìßá ðëùôÞ. Ç Ýîïäïò ãßíåôáé üðùò ðñïáíáöÝñèçêå, ìÝóù ôå÷íçôÞò óÞñáããáò ðïõ ëåéôïõñãåß ôáõôü÷ñïíá êáé ùò ìïõóåéáêüò ÷þñïò ìå ðëçñïöïñéáêü õëéêü The cave is on the northern side of the city, along the 2nd kilometre of the lakeside road known as Soungaridi Street and just before the Monastery of Panagia Mavriotissa. The entrance is approximately 20 metres from the banks of the lake and four metres from the road. The interior includes large sections of land and lake, as well as an impressive decor of stalactites, with its seven underground lakes, 10 caverns and five corridors/tunnels. The cave's largest cavern is 45x17 metres in size. Its middle section is elevated while its sides end in lakes. The cave's large lake, which is also the deepest, is on the west. The temperature in the cave is èçâåðãàë ïëàìÿ èç ñâîåé ïàñòè. Îòñþäà è íàçâàíèå ... Åñòåñòâåííî, ïîñëåäîâàëè è äðóãèå èññëåäîâàíèÿ, êîòîðûå âñåãäà óêðåïëÿëè ìíåíèå ó÷åíûõ î ïðèãîäíîñòè ïåùåðû ê òóðèñòè÷åñêîé ýêñïëóàòàöèè.  èòîãå, «Ïåùåðà Äðàêîíà" îòêðûëà ñâîè äâåðè äëÿ ïîñåòèòåëåé 13 äåêàáðÿ 2009 ãîäà. Âñå ïðåäïîëàãàåìûå ðàáîòû äëÿ òîãî, ÷òîáû îòêðûòü âñåì æåëàþùèì âõîä â ïåùåðó, à òàêæå îçåëåíåíèå è îôîðìëåíèå áëèçëèæàéøåé òåððèòîðèè è çäàíèé, êîòîðûå ñëóæàò äëÿ ðàáîòû ïåùåðû, áûëè ïðîâåäåíû ñ íåçíà÷èòåëüíûì âìåøàòåëüñòâîì â ýòî óíèêàëüíîå ÷óäî ïðèðîäû, ÷òîáû íå èñêàçèòü ñòàëàêòèòû è äðóãèå íàòå÷íîêàïåëüíûå îáðàçîâàíèÿ íåîáû÷àéíîé êðàñîòû, â òî âðåìÿ êàê âíåøíå áûëî îñóùåñòâëåíî âìåøàòåëüñòâî ïî àðõèòåêòóðíîìó ïëàíó ñ óâàæåíèåì ê òðàäèöèè, ñ èñïîëüçîâàíèåì êàìíÿ, äåðåâà è äðóãèõ ìåñòíûõ ìàòåðèàëîâ äëÿ î á ë è ö î â ê è , â ê ë þ ÷ à ÿ èíêðóñòèðîâàííóþ äåêîðàòèâíóþ êåðàìèêó.  ïåùåðå äðàêîíà ïðîâåäåíû ïðåêðàñíî îáîðóäîâàííûå òóðèñòè÷åñêèå ìàðøðóòû. Òðîïèíêà ïðîòÿæåííîñòüþ îêîëî 300 ì. ñ âåëèêîëåïíîé ïîäñâåòêîé äðåâíèõ
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ãýñù áðü ôçí éóôïñßá, ôïí ìýèï, ôéò öÜóåéò êáôáóêåõÞò áîéïðïßçóçò ôïõ óðçëáßïõ üðùò êáé ãéá ôá óðÞëáéá óå üëï ôïí åëëáäéêü ÷þñï, óôá ðëáßóéá ìéáò ðñïóðÜèåéáò åõáéóèçôïðïßçóçò ôùí åðéóêåðôþí ãé áõôÜ ôá «ìíçìåßá ôçò öýóçò». www.spilaiodrakoukast.gr T. 6957591303, 2467026777 fixed at 16-18°C all year round, while humidity can reach up to 90%. Paleontological remains have been found in the interior of the Dragon's Cave, the most important being the bones of the Ursus spelaeus. This species lived in Europe in the Pleistocene and became extinct approximately 10,000 years ago. The cave was discovered in the 1940s by amateur explorers from Kastoria, who discovered and described the cave and its unparalleled beauty, and were the first to suggest that it be developed. It was at this time that the myth about the “Dragon” of the cave came to life, hence the name. According to the myth, in the very core of the cave there hid a goldmine guarded by a Dragon, and hence the name of the cave... As would be expected, this was followed by many more explorations that further strengthened the view that the cave was suitable for development. Eventually, after a series of adventures the Dragon's Cave opened its gates to the public on 13 December 2009. All the works that were required in order to make the cave accessible to visitors, as well as the creation of the surrounding areas and buildings assisting the entire operation of the Cave, were carried out using mild intervention methods, especially on the ïîðîä (ñòàëàãìèòîâ è ñòàëàêòèòîâ) âïîëíå äîñòàòî÷íà äëÿ òîãî, ÷òîáû âîñõèòèòüñÿ è íàâñåãäà çàïîìíèòü óäèâèòåëüíûé ïîäçåìíûé ìèð, ñîçäàííûé ñàìîé ïðèðîäîé. Ïîñåòèòåëü ïðîõîäèò ïî êðàñèâî ïîñòðîåííûì ìîñòàì. Îñîáî âïå÷àòëÿåò ïëàâàþùèé ìîñò, ñ êîòîðîãî ìîæíî óâèäåòü âñå ñåìü îçåð, ðàñïîëîæåííûå âî âíóòðåííåì ïðîñòðàíñòâå ïåùåðû. Âûõîäîì èç ïåùåðû ÿâëÿåòñÿ èñêóññòâåííûé òóííåëü äèíîé 35 ì., êîòîðûé îäíîâðåìåííî âûïîëíÿåò ôóíêöèè ìóçåÿ ñ èíôîðìàöèåé îá èñòîðèè, ìèôå, ñòðîèòåëüñòâå èñïîëüçîâàíèè «Ïåùåðû äðàêîíà» è äðóãèõ ïåùåð íà òåððèòîðèè Ãðåöèè, ïûòàÿñü òåì ñàìûì ïîâûñèòü èíòåðåñ ïîñåòèòåëåé ê ýòèì «ïàìÿòíèêàì ïðèðîäû». www.spilaiodrakoukast.gr T. 6957591303, 2467026777 Ïîêèäàÿ ïåùåðó è ñëåäóÿ ïî ïðèîçåðíîé äîðîãå, â êàêîé-òî ìîìåíò ìû ïðèáëèæàåìñÿ ê
Åãêáôáëåßðïíôáò ôï óðÞëáéï êáé áêïëïõèþíôáò ôïí ðáñáëßìíéï äñüìï öèÜíïõìå êÜðïéá óôéãìÞ óôçí äéáìïñöùìÝíç ðñïâëÞôá ãéá íá åðéâéâáóôïýìå óôï ôïõñéóôéêü óêÜöïò ÏÑÅÓÔÅÉÁÓ ãéá Ýíá ðåñßðëïõ ôçò ÷åñóïíÞóïõ. Ôï «ÏÑÅÓÔÅÉÁÓ» áíïßãåôáé áñãÜ êáé íù÷åëéêÜ âüñåéá êáé áöÞíåé ôï ìÜôé ôïõ åðéâÜôç íá áãêáëéÜóåé ôçí ðëÞñç áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞ óýíèåóç ôçò ðüëçò áðü åêåßíç ôçí ðëåõñÜ. Óôç óõíÝ÷åéá ôï ðëïßï óôñßâåé áíáôïëéêÜ, ðáñáêÜìðôåé ôçí áé÷ìÞ ôïõ âïõíïý ôçò ëßìíçò êáé áðïêáëýðôåé ôç ìáãåõôéêÞ èÝá êáé ôïõò ãáëáæïðñÜóéíïõò êáèñåöôéóìïýò. ÐñïóðåñíÜ ðåñéï÷Ýò ðïõ ðáñáäïóéáêÜ èåùñïýíôáé üôé 'êñáôïýí ðïëý øÜñé', ìå áðïôÝëåóìá íá âëÝðåé êáíåßò ìåãÜëåò óõãêåíôñþóåéò øáñÜäùí. ÌÝóá óå Ýíá óôåíü Üíïéãìá ôùí âñÜ÷ùí öáßíïíôáé ôá «ÌáãáæéÜ». Ç ðáñÜäïóç ëååé üôé åäþ õðÞñ÷å áñ÷áßï éåñü ôïõ Ðïóåéäþíá ðÜíù óôï ïðïßï ÷ôßóôçêå áñãüôåñá ìéá ìéêñÞ åêêëçóßá óôç ìíÞìç ôïõ Áãßïõ Æá÷áñßá. Ãéá Äñïìïëüãéá ìå ôï ôïõñéóôéêü óêÜöïò ìðïñåßôå íá åðéêïéíùíÞóåôå ìå ôçí êïéíùöåëÞ åðé÷åßñçóç ôïõ ÄÞìïõ ÊáóôïñéÜò ÏÑÅÓÔÉÁÓ: Ô. 2467029630, 6984618923 www.spilaiodrakoukast.gr T. 6957591303,2467026777
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interior so as to keep intact the rich decor of stalactites. Interventions on the exterior are based on an architectural character that shows respect to the building tradition of the area by using local materials on the sides, as well as stone, wood and inlaid ceramic decorations. Visitor tours include a natural trail of approximately 300 metres. The cave is exited from a 35-metre artificial tunnel. The trail's natural beauty is owed to its splendid decor of stalactites and stalagmites, as well as to the four lakes we come across. Visitors get to cross beautifully built bridges, two solid bridges and one floating bridge. The exit is as described above, via an artificial tunnel that also functions as a museum area with information material on the history, myth and construction/development phases of this cave and other caves throughout Greece, in an effort to raise awareness about these 'monuments of nature'. www.spilaiodrakoukast.gr T. 6957591303,2467026777
ïðèñòàíè äëÿ òîãî, ÷òîáû âçîéòè íà áîðò òóðèñòè÷åñêîãî ñóäíà «Îðåñòèàñ» äëÿ ïóòåøåñòâèÿ âîêðóã ïîëóîñòðîâà. «Îðåñòèàñ» îòïëûâàåò ìåäëåííî è ïðåäîñòàâëÿåò ïàññàæèðàì âîçìîæíîñòü íàñëàäèòüñÿ àðõèòåêòóðíîé êîìïîçèöèåé ãîðîäà ñ ñåâåðíîé ñòîðîíû. Äàëåå ñóäíî ïîâîðà÷èâàåò íà âîñòîê, ìèíóÿ ïèê ãîðû, è âçîðó ïóòåøåñòâåííèêîâ îòêðûâàåòñÿ çàõâàòûâàþùèé äóõ âèä è ñèíå-çåëåíûå îòðàæåíèÿ. Êóðñèðóÿ, «Îðåñòèàñ» îáõîäèò ñòîðîíîé òå ìåñòà, êîòîðûå òðàäèöèîííî ñ÷èòàþòñÿ ìåñòàìè áîëüøîãî ñêîïëåíèÿ ðûáû, è òàì ìîæíî óâèäåòü ìíîãî ðûáàêîâ. Ñêâîçü óçêîå îòâåðñòèå ñêàë âèäíû "Ìàãàçèíû". Ïðåäàíèå ãëàñèò, ÷òî çäåñü áûë äðåâíèé õðàì Ïîñåéäîíà, íà êîòîðîì ïîçæå ïîñòðîèëè íåáîëüøóþ öåðêîâü â ïàìÿòü î Ñâ. Çàõàðèè. Íåìíîãî íèæå íàõîäèòñÿ çíàìåíèòûé ìîíàñòûðü Áîæüåé ìàòåðè Ìàâðèîòèññû. Áëàãîäàðÿ ñâîåé óíèêàëüíîé àðõèòåêòóðå îí îðãàíè÷íî âïèñûâàåòñÿ â îêðóæàþùóþ ñðåäó. Íåîáúÿñíèìîå âîëíåíèå è òðåïåò èñïûòûâàþò ïîñåòèòåëè ïðè. Äëÿ ïîëó÷åíèÿ äîïîëíèòåëüíîé èíôîðìàöèè, ïîæàëóéñòà, ñâÿæèòåñü ìóíèöèïàëüíûé òóðèñòè÷åñêèé áèçíåñ â Êàñòîðèè Ô:2467029630, 6984618923 www.spilaiodrakoukast.gr T. 6957591303,2467026777
ïîñåùåíèè ýòîé ñâÿòûíè. Ïåðåä ìîíàñòûðåì âèäåí âõîä â íåáîëüøóþ ïåùåðó, Ãóëóìïèöó, â êîòîðîé âðåìÿ Âòîðîé ìèðîâîé âîéíû óêðûâàëèñü æèòåëè Êàñòîðüè. Çà ìîíàñòûðåì ìîæíî óâèäåòü âõîä è â äðóãóþ ïåùåðó. Ýòî çíàìåíèòàÿ ïåùåðà ñ ñåìüþ îçåðàìè, «ïåùeðà Äðàêîíà», îäíà èç êðóïíåéøèõ è êðàñèâåéøèõ ïåùåð, êîòîðûå ìû óæå óïîìÿíóëè ðàíåå. Âûøå, íà âûñîêèõ âåðòèêàëüíûõ ñêàëàõ, âèäíà öåðêîâü Ñâÿòîé Êèðèàêè ñ êðóòîé òðîïèíêîé. Ðÿäîì êðóïíûå ñòàè ÷åðíûõ âîðîí, êîòîðûõ ðàíüøå ëîâèëè è ïûòàëèñü ïðèó÷èòü ìåñòíûå æèòåëè. «Îðåñòèàñ» ïðîäîëæàåò ñëåäîâàòü ñâîèì êóðñîì è ïðè÷àëèâàåò ê ïîñåëêó Äîëòöó.
ÊáóôïñéÜ/ Kastoria/ Êàñòîðüÿ ¼÷é ðïëý ðáñáêÜôù îå÷ùñßæåé ôï îáêïõóôü ìïíáóôÞñé ôçò Ðáíáãßáò ôçò Ìáõñéþôéóóáò. Ìå ôç ìïíáäéêÞ ôïõ áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞ äÝíåé áðüëõôá ìå ôï ðåñéâÜëëïí êáé ðñïêáëåß ôïí ðçãáßï åíèïõóéáóìü ôïõ êÜèå åðéóêÝðôç. Ðñéí áðü ôï ìïíáóôÞñé öáßíåôáé ôï óôüìéï ìéáò ìéêñÞò óðçëéÜò, ôçò “Ãêïõëïõìðßôóáò”, åäþ êñõâüôáí ïé Êáóôïñéáíïß êáôÜ ôçí äéÜñêåéá ôïõ  Ðáãêüóìéïõ ðüëåìïõ. ÌåôÜ ôï ìïíáóôÞñé äéáêñßíåôáé ç åßóïäïò ìéáò Üëëçò óðçëéÜò. Ðñüêåéôáé ãéá ôçí ïíïìáóôÞ åöôÜëéìíç “óðçëéÜ ôïõ ÄñÜêïõ”, Ýíá áðü ôá ìåãáëýôåñá êáé ïìïñöüôåñá óðÞëáéá ãéá ôï ïðïßï Þäç Ý÷ïõìå áíáöåñèåß. Ðéï ðÝñá, øçëÜ óôá êÜèåôá âñÜ÷éá, öáßíåôáé ôï îùêëÞóé ôçò Áãßáò ÊõñéáêÞò ìå ôï áðüêñçìíï ìïíïðÜôé. Äßðëá ïé “ãêáëéüôñõðåò” ìå ôéò ìåãÜëåò áðïéêßåò ìáõñïêïñÜêùí (ãêÜëéåò), ðïõ ðáëéÜ ôéò Ýðéáíáí ìéêñÝò ïé Êáóôïñéáíïß êáé ôéò åîçìÝñùíáí. Êáèþò ôï «ÏÑÅÓÔÅÉÁÓ» ôáîéäåýåé, ðáñáðëÝåé ôçí ðáñáëßá ôïõ Íôïëôóïý, ôï Íôïëôóü åßíáé ôï éóôïñéêü êÝíôñï ôçò ðüëçò, åäþ æïýóáí ïé ¸ëëçíåò ôïí êáéñü ôçò Ôïõñêïêñáôßáò ìÝóá óôá ðáíÝìïñöá áñ÷ïíôéêÜ, ðïëëÜ áðü ôá ïðïßá óþæïíôáé ìÝ÷ñé êáé óÞìåñá. Áêïëïõèåß ç “óêÜëá ôïõ Óôáõñïý”, ðïõ ïíïìÜóôçêå Ýôóé ãéáôß áð åäþ ãßíåôáé ç ñßøç ôïõ Ôßìéïõ Óôáõñïý óôá ðáãùìÝíá íåñÜ, ôçí çìÝñá ôùí Èåïöáíåßùí êáé Ýðåôáé ç íÝá ðáñáëßá ìå ôïí óôßâï ôùí êùðçëáôéêþí áãþíùí.
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Moving on from the cave, if we follow the lakeside road we will at some point reach the pier, from where we will get on the ORESTIAS tourist craft for a circumnavigation of the peninsula. The ORESTIAS slowly and leisurely heads north, allowing the passengers' eyes to take in the entire image of this part of the city's architecture. The ship then turns towards the east, skirts around the tip of the lake's mountain and reveals the magical view and blue-green reflections. It passes by areas that are traditionally considered to have a lot of fish, hence the large crowds of fishermen. Through a narrow opening in the rocks, one sees Magazia. Legend has it that this was the site of an ancient sanctuary of Poseidon, on which a small church was later built in memory of Saint Zacharias. Not far from there lies the famous Monastery of Panagia Mavriotissa. Its unique architecture makes it blend in with the environment and triggers the unfeigned enthusiasm of every visitor. Just before the monastery, one can see the mouth of a small cave, Gouloumpitsa, where the locals hid in World War II. Just past the monastery one will find the entrance to another cave. This is the Dragon's Cave with its seven lakes, one of the largest and most beautiful caves, which we have already spoken about above. Further on, high on the steep rocks, one sees the chapel of Agia Kyriaki with its precipitous path. Next to it are the socalled “galiotrypes”, with the large colonies of black crows (galies), which the locals would catch when young and domesticate. As the ORESTIAS travels on, it hugs the coast of Doltso, the historical centre of the city, where Greeks lived at the time of the Turkish occupation in beautiful mansions, many of which have been salvaged to this day. Next comes the stairway of the Cross. It was given this name because it is from here that the Holy Cross
Ýòî èñòîðè÷åñêèé öåíòðãîðîäà. Çäåñü, â ïðåêðàñíûõ ñòàðèííûõ îñîáíÿêàõ, ìíîãèå èç êîòîðûõ ñîõðàíèëèñü äî íàøèõ äíåé, âî âðåìåíà òóðåöêîãî âëàäû÷åñòâà æèëè ãðåêè. Ãîñòÿì áóäåò èíòåðåñíà è ëåñòíèöà Êðåñòà, íàçâàííàÿ òàê ïîòîìó, ÷òî îòñþäà áðîñàþò Ñâÿòîé Êðåñò â ëåäÿíûå âîäû, â äåíü Êðåùåíèÿ Ãîñïîäíÿ (Áîãîÿâëåíèÿ), à òàêæå íîâàÿ íàáåðåæíàÿ è áàçà äëÿ ñîðåâíîâàíèé ïî ãðåáëå. Ðàéîííàÿ ïðèîçåðíàÿ äîðîãà ñ ïëàòàíàìè ýòî ìåñòî ñ ïîòðÿñàþùåé ïðèðîäíîé êðàñîòîé.  íà÷àëå âåñíû íà ñåâåðíûõ ñêëîíàõ ðàññöâåòàþò ìèíäàëüíûå äåðåâüÿ, äèêèå ðîçû è êóñòàðíèêè, ñîçäàâàÿ êàðòèíû íåñðàâíåííîé êðàñîòû. Ïðîäîëæåíèå ïóòåøåñòâèÿ òàêæå çàõâàòûâàþùååå è ñâÿçàíî ñ öåëîé ñåðèåé êóëüòóðíûõ ìàðøðóòîâ, êîòîðûå â íàñòîÿùåå âðåìÿ ðåàëèçóåò ìóíèöèïàëèòåò ã. Êàñòîðüÿ. Ýòî âàæíàÿ èäåÿ ìóíèöèïàëüíûõ âëàñòåé è ñïîñîá ïðîäâèæåíèÿ ãîðîäà Êàñòîðèè, êàê óíèâåðñàëüíîãî è ïðèâëåêàòåëüíîãî òóðèñòè÷åñêîãî öåíòðà. Ýòîò òóð âêëþ÷àåò â ñåáÿ ðÿä òåìàòè÷åñêèõ ýêñêóðñèé. 1àÿ òåìàòè÷åñêàÿ ýêñêóðñèÿ: Æåëàþùèå ãëóáæå óçíàòü èñòîðèþ êðàÿ è ãîðîäà ñ óäîâîëüñòâèåì ïîñåòÿò âèçàíòèéñêèå è òðàäèöèîííûå ðàéîíû Êàñòîðüè, íà÷èíàÿ ñî çäàíèÿ Ïðåôåêòóðû, â êîòîðîì ñîõðàíèëîñü ìíîæåñòâî ïàìÿòíèêîâ àíòè÷íîñòè. Ïåðâóþ îñòàíîâêó ìîæíî ñäåëàòü ó ñòåí ãîðîäà,
ÊáóôïñéÜ/ Kastoria/ Êàñòîðüÿ Ç ðåñéöåñåéáêÞ ðáñáëßìíéá ïäüò ìå ôá ðëáôÜíéá Ý÷åé ÷áñáêôçñéóôåß óáí ôüðïò éäéáßôåñïõ öõóéêïý êÜëëïõò. Ïé âüñåéåò ðëáãéÝò ìå ôéò áìõãäáëéÝò, ôéò áãñéïôñéáíôáöõëëéÝò êáé ôá ðïõñíÜñéá áíèßæïõí íùñßò ôçí Üíïéîç, öôéÜ÷íïíôáò åéêüíåò áðáñÜìéëëçò ïìïñöéÜò. Ç óõíÝ÷åéá åîßóïõ óõíáñðáóôéêÞ Ý÷åé íá êÜíåé ìå ìéá óåéñÜ ðïëéôéóôéêÝò äéáäñïìÝò, ìéá äñÜóç ðïõ åäþ êáé ëßãï êáéñü õëïðïéåß ç êïéíùöåëÞò åðé÷åßñçóç ôïõ ÄÞìïõ ÊáóôïñéÜò. Ðñüêåéôáé ãéá ìéá óçìáíôéêÞ êßíçóç ôçò äçìïôéêÞò áñ÷Þò ãéá ôçí áíÜäåé-
is thrown into the icy waters on the celebration of the Epiphany. We will then move on to the new waterfront with its rowing race course. The lakeside road which is bordered by plane trees has been listed as a site of exceptional natural beauty. The northern slopes with its almond trees, wild rose bushes and holm oaks blossom early in the spring, thus creating images of unparalleled beauty. The next part of our tour is just as exciting. It involves a series of cultural routes forming part of an action implemented for some time now by the municipal en-
à äàëåå ïðîäîëæèòü ïðîãóëêó ïî óëèöå Õðèñòîïóëîñà, ïîñåùàÿ äîìà áååâ è íåîêëàññè÷åñêèå çäàíèÿ â ðàéîíå Àïîçàðè. Ïîñëå ïîñåùåíèÿ öåðêâè Àðõàíãåëîâ âàøå âíèìàíèå ïðèâëåêóò ñòàðûé ãðå÷åñêèé ðàéîí, îñîáíÿêè Ìàëêó, Ñàïóíäçèñà, Ìàâðîâèòè, îñîáíÿê Öüÿöàïà. Ãîñòè ìîãóò ñîâåðøèòü âîñõîæäåíèå ê õðàìó Ñâÿòûõ Ñåðåáðåííèêîâ ïî ëåñòíèöå Êèäîíèè, ïîñåòèòü õðàì Áîæüåé ìàòåðè Ìèëîñåðäèÿ, ïî æèâîïèñíûì óëèöàì ñïóñòèòüñÿ ê ñðåäíåâåêîâîé ïëîùàäè Äîëüöî.  ýòîò ìåñòå÷êå ìîæíî îñòàíîâèòüñÿ è îòäûõíóòü â îäíîì èç ìíîãî÷èñëåííûõ êàôå, îòâåäàâ
îç ôçò ðüëçò ôçò ÊáóôïñéÜò, ùò Ýíáí ðïëõìïñöéêü, åëêõóôéêü ôïõñéóôéêü ðñïïñéóìü. Ç åí ëüãù îåíÜãçóç áöïñÜ ìéá óåéñÜ èåìáôéêÝò ðåñéçãÞóåéò 1ç ÈåìáôéêÞ ÐåñéÞãçóç: ¸íáò “ðåñéåêôéêüò” ðåñßðáôïò ÂõæáíôéíÞò êáé ðáñáäïóéáêÞò ÊáóôïñéÜò ðïõ îåêéíÜ áðü ôï Äçìáñ÷åßï, ìå ðñþôç óôÜóç óôá ôåß÷ç, óôç óõíÝ÷åéá ðïñåßá áðü ôçí ïäü ×ñéóôïðïýëïõ, åðßóêåøç óå íåïêëáóéêÜ êáé óðßôéá ÌðÝçäùí óôï Áðüæáñé, ìåôÜâáóç óôçí ðáëéÜ ÅëëçíéêÞ óõíïéêßá ìåôÜ ôçí åêêëçóßá ôùí Ôáîéáñ÷þí, óôá áñ÷ïíôéêÜ ÌÜëêïõ, ÓáðïõíÜ, Ìáõñïâßôç, óôï áñ÷ïíôéêü ÔóéáôóéáðÜ, áíÜâáóç óôïõò Áãßïõò Áíáñãýñïõò áðü ôïí óêáëüäñïìï ôùí Êõäùíéþí, ðÝñáóìá áðü Áãßá Åëåïýóá, êáôÜâáóç óôï Íôïëôóü áðü ãñáöé-
terprise of the Municipality of Kastoria. This is an important action taken by the municipal authority aiming to promote the city of Kastoria as a diverse and attractive tourist destination.
òðàäèöèîííûå ñëàäîñòè è ãðå÷åñêèå ïèðîãè. Ïàíîðàìó ãîðîäà äîïîëíÿþò ñòàðèííûå îñîáíÿêè, ñîõðàíèâøèåñÿ ñî âðåì¸í òóðåöêîãî âëàäû÷åñòâà. Ýòè îñîáíÿêè ïðèäàþò ñâîåîáðàçíûé êîëîðèò ãîðîäó. Ñðåäè íèõ íàäî îòìåòèòü ñëåäóþùèå: îñîáíÿêè Ýììàíóýëü, Áàññàðà, Íàòçè, Ñêóòàðè. Äàëåå îñòàíêè øêîëû Êèðèöè è âîñõîæäåíèå ïî ëåñòíèöå Âåðãóëà â ðàéîí Îìîíèÿ è âðåìåííàÿ îñòàíîâêà â õðàìå Ïàíàãèè Êóìáåëèäèêè èëè Êàñòðèîòèñû. Îòòóäà ìîæíî ñïóñòèòüñÿ ïî óëèöå Ìèòðîïîëåîñ ê þæíîìó áåðåãó è ê ðûáíîìó ðûíêó. Ïðîäîëæèòåëüíîñòü ýêñêóðñèè îêîëî ÷åòûðåõ ÷àñîâ. 2 à ÿ òåìàòè÷åñêàÿ ýêñêóðñèÿ: ãîðîä Êàñòîðüÿ â âèçàíòèéñêèå âðåìåíà. Âàñ æäåò çàõâàòûâàþùåå çíàêîìñòâî ñ ãîðîäîì, êîòîðûé çàíèìàë âàæíîå ìåñòî â âèçàíòèéñêèå âðåìåíà, ñ ìîìåíòà îñíîâàíèÿ Êàñòîðüè ïî ïðèêàçó âèçàíòèéñêîãî èìïåðàòîðà Þñòèíèàíà, äî
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For services to the tourist boat, you can contact the business tourism Kastoria "Orestias” Ô. 2467029630, 6984618923 www.spilaiodrakoukast.gr T. 6957591303,2467026777
This tour involves a series of thematic tours. 1st Thematic Tour: A wide-ranging walk through Byzantine and traditional Kastoria that begins at the city hall, making the first stop at the city's walls. From there we will walk along Christodoulou Street and visit neoclassical and Bey houses at Apozari, then move on to the
ÊáóôïñéÜ/ Kastoria/ Êàñòîðüÿ
êÜ äñïìÜêéá. Óôï óçìåßï áõôü óôÜóç êáé îåêïýñáóç ìå «ôñáôÜñéóìá» êáöÝ êáé ðáñáäïóéáêïý ãëõêïý Þ ðßôáò. Óôç óõíÝ÷åéá êáôåýèõíóç óôá Áñ÷ïíôéêÜ ÅììáíïõÞë, ÌðáóÜñá, ÍáôæÞ, Óêïýôáñç, ôá õðïëåßììáôá ôçò ó÷ïëÞò Êõñßôóç êáé áíçöüñéóìá áðü ôïí óêáëüäñïìï ôïõ ÂÝñãïõëá óôçí Ïìüíïéá êáé ðñïóùñéíüò ôåñìáôéóìüò óôçí åìâëçìáôéêÞ åêêëçóßá ôçò Êïõìðåëßäéêçò. Áðü åêåé êÜèïäïò ìÝóù Ìçôñïðüëåùò óôçí Íüôéá Ðáñáëßá Þ óôá øáñÜäéêá. Ç äéÜñêåéá ôçò ðåñéÞãçóçò õðïëïãßæåôå óôéò 4 þñåò. 2ç ÈåìáôéêÞ ÐåñéÞãçóç: “Ç ÂõæáíôéíÞ ÊáóôïñéÜ”. Ìéá óõíáñðáóôéêÞ ãíùñéìßá ìå ôç èÝóç ôçò ÊáóôïñéÜò óôïí êüóìï ôïõ Âõæáíôßïõ, áðü ôçí ßäñõóç ôçò ôá ÷ñüíéá ôïõ Éïõóôéíéáíïý, ìÝ÷ñé ôçí êáôÜëçøç ôçò áðü ôïõò Ïèùìáíïýò. ¸íá ôáîßäé óôï ìáãéêü êüóìï ôùí Ìíçìåßùí ôçò ðüëçò, áðü ôéò ìïíáäéêÝò ôïé÷ïãñáößåò ôïõ Áãßïõ ÓôåöÜíïõ, ìÝ÷ñé ôéò ëáìðñÝò áðåéêïíßóåéò ôùí êôçôüñùí ôçò, ôùí Áãßùí Áíáñãýñùí êáé ôïõ Áãßïõ ÍéêïëÜïõ. Ìå ôïí ðåñßðáôï áõôü, íïåñÜ øçëáößæïõìå ôçí éóôïñéêÞ, óôñáôéùôéêÞ êáé ðíåõìáôéêÞ áîßá ôçò ÊáóôïñéÜò, óôá ÷ñüíéá ôïõ Âõæáíôßïõ. Ôåëåéþíïíôáò ôçí ðåñéÞãçóç áõôÞ ßóùò íá ìðïñÝóïõìå íá áðáíôÞóïõìå óå ìéá óåéñÜ áðïñßåò, ðïõ ðñïöáíþò èá ìáò ãåííçèïýí, üðùò: ¹ôáí ç ÊáóôïñéÜ ôüðïò åîïñßáò óôá ÂõæáíôéíÜ ÷ñüíéá; Åêôüò áðü ôïí ÁëÝîéï Á´ ðïéïò Üëëïò áðü ôç äõíáóôåßá ôùí Êï-
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Greek district just after the Church of Taxiarches, visit the Malkou, Sapounas, Mavrovitis and Tsiatsiapas mansions, walk up to Agioi Anargyroi via the Kydonia stair path, pass by Agia Eleousa and then walk down to Doltso through the picturesque alleys. At this point we will make a stop to rest and be treated to some coffee and a traditional sweet or pie. Once we have rested, we will continue in the direction of the Emmanouil, Basaras, Natzis and Skoutaris mansions, see the remains of the Kyritsi School, take the stair path up to Vergoula in Omonoia and make a short stop at the symbolic church of Koumpelidiki (Our Lady of the Domes). From there we will make our way down via Mitropoleos Street to the southern waterfront or fishing boats. The duration of this tour is approximately four hours. 2nd Thematic Tour: “Byzantine Kastoria” A fascinating tour that will present Kastoria's position in the byzantine world, from its establishment during the reign of Justinian until its occupation by the Ottomans. Enjoy a trip to the magical world of the city's monuments, from the unique murals of Agios Stefanos to the brilliant portrayals of the founders of the churches of Agioi Anargyroi and Agios Nikolaos. Through this walk we have the chance to experience in our minds the historical, military and
çàâîåâàíèÿ ãîðîäà îñìàíñêèìè çàâîåâàòåëÿìè. Ïóòåøåñòâèå â âîëøåáíûé ìèð ïàìÿòíèêîâ êóëüòóðû, òàêèõ óíèêàëüíûõ âèçàíòèéñêèõ è ïîñòâèçàíòèéñêèõ öåðêâåé êàê õðàì Ñâÿòîãî Ñòåôàíà, õðàì Ñâÿòûõ Ñåðåáðåííèêîâ è õðàì Ñâÿòîãî Íèêîëàÿ, óêðàøàþùèõ ãîðîä. Âî âðåìÿ ýòîé ýêñêóðñèè ìû ìûñëåííî îùóùàåì èñòîðè÷åñêóþ, âîåííóþ è äóõîâíóþ öåííîñòü Êàñòîðüè â âèçàíòèéñêèå âðåìåíà. Ïîäèòîæèâàÿ íàø òóð, ìîæåì áûòü ìû áóäåì â ñîñòîÿíèè îòâåòèòü íà ðÿä âîïðîñîâ, êîòîðûå, âîçíèêëè, à èìåííî: áûëà ëè Êàñòîðüÿ ìåñòîì ññûëêè â âèçàíòèéñêèå âðåìåíà? Êòî, êðîìå Àëåêñåÿ I èç äèíàñòèè Êîìíèíîâ, áûë òåñíî ñâÿçàí ñ ýòèì ãîðîäîì? Ñóùåñòâóåò ëè âíóòðè èçâåñòíîé öåðêâè â Êàñòîðüå îáðàùåíèå ê Àëëàõó? Áûë ëè êîãäàíèáóäü â ïðîøëîì ãîðîä ñòîëèöåé èìïåðèè? Ïðîäîëæèòåëüíîñòü ýêñêóðñèè îêîëî äâóõ ñ ïîëîâèíîé ÷àñîâ, âðåìÿ, íåîáõîäèìîå äëÿ îòâåòîâ íà âûøåïðèâåäåííûå âîïðîñû, ñêîðåå âñåãî, íàìíîãî áîëüøå. Íàøà ïîåçäêà ïî èñòîðè÷åñêèì ïàìÿòíèêàì ãîðîäà è çíàêîìñòâî ñ óíèêàëüíûì ïðèðîäíûì ëàíäøàôòîì îêðóæàþùåé îáëàñòè ïîäîøëî ê êîíöó. Ïîñëåäíèì øòðèõîì è îñòàíîâêîé ñòàíóò Ñðåäíåâåêîâûé Âèçàíòèéñêèé ôåñòèâàëü «Àëåêñèàäà» è êàðíàâàë ïîä íàçâàíèåì «Ðàíãóöàðèÿ». Ôåñòèâàëü îðãàíèçóåòñÿ ïî èíèöèàòèâå
ÊáóôïñéÜ/ Kastoria/ Êàñòîðüÿ ìíçíþí óõíäÝèçêå ìå ôçí ÊáóôïñéÜ; ÕðÜñ÷åé óôï åóùôåñéêü ãíùóôÞò åêêëçóßáò ôçò ÊáóôïñéÜò åðßêëçóç ðñïò ôïí ÁëëÜ÷; Ç ÊáóôïñéÜ äéáôÝëåóå ðïôÝ Ýäñá Áõôïêñáôïñßáò; Ç äéÜñêåéá ôçò ðåñéÞãçóçò õðïëïãßæåôå óôéò äõüìéóç þñåò, ï ÷ñüíïò ãéá ôéò áðáíôÞóåéò óôá ðáñáðÜíù åñùôÞìáôá åßíáé ìÜëëïí ðåñéóóüôåñïò. Ôåëåéþíïíôáò ôï ïäïéðïñéêü ìáò ü÷é ìüíï óôá éóôïñéêÜ ìíçìåßá ôçò ðüëçò, áëëÜ êáé óôï áðáñÜìéëëï öõóéêü ôïðßï ôçò åõñýôåñçò ðåñéï÷Þò, ìéá ôåëåõôáßá ðéíåëéÜ êáé ìéá ôåëåõôáßá óôÜóç. Ìéá ðéíåëéÜ ãéá êÜðïéá óôïé÷åßá ó÷åôéêÜ ìå ìéá ðñáãìáôéêÜ ðïëý åíäéáöÝñïõóá äéïñãÜíùóç, ôçí «ÁËÅÎÉÁÄÁ» êáé åí ôÝëåé áíáðüöåõêôï ñÝêâéåì, ôá ðåñßöçìá ÑáãêïõôóÜñéá. Ôï Ìåóáéùíéêü Âõæáíôéíü ÖåóôéâÜë «ÁëåîéÜäá» ôïõ ÄÞìïõ ÊáóôïñéÜò, äéïñãáíþíåôáé óõíÞèùò åêåß óôá ôÝëç ôïõ êáëïêáéñéïý êáé ôéò ðñþôåò çìÝñåò ôïõ öèéíïðþñïõ. Ç «ÁëåîéÜäá» ïöåßëåé ôï üíïìÜ ôçò óôçí áíáöïñÜ ôçò ¢ííáò ÊïìíçíÞò óôçí ÊáóôïñéÜ óôï éóôïñéêü êåßìåíü ôçò «ÁëåîéÜò», üðïõ ðåñéãñÜöåé ôçí êáôï÷Þ ôçò ðüëçò áðü ôïõò Íïñìáíäïýò êáé ôçí åðéêÞ ôçò áðåëåõèÝñùóç áðü ôïí áõôïêñÜôïñá ÁëÝîéï Á' Êïìíçíü ôï 1083 ì×. Ðñüêåéôáé ãéá Ýíá éäéáßôåñá ðñùôüôõðï êáé áôìïóöáéñéêü öåóôéâÜë ðïõ åðé÷åéñåß íá ìåôáöÝñåé ôçí éóôïñßá óôï óÞìåñá, ÷ñçóéìïðïéþíôáò óáí åñãáëåßá ôçí ìïõóéêÞ, ôéò åéêüíåò, ôá ÷ñþìáôá, ôïí ëüãï, áêüìç-áêüìç êáé ôéò ãåýóåéò, ó´ Ýíá áñìïíéêü ðÜíôñåìá öïõôïõñéóôéêþí êáé ñïìáíôéêþí áíôéëÞøåùí ãéá ìéá éóôïñéêÞ áíáðáñÜóôáóç ìå ðïëëáðëÝò óôï÷åýóåéò óôï óÞìåñá. Êáé áò áêïýãåôáé ëßãï ðïìðþäåò üëï áõôü. Óôçí äéÜñêåéá ôïõ öåóôéâÜë ïé åðéóêÝðôåò Ý÷ïõí ôçí äõíáôüôçôá íá ðåñéçãçèïýí óå éóôïñéêÜ ìíçìåßá ðëáéóéùìÝíá ìå åéêüíåò êáé Þ÷ïõò, íá áðïëáýóïõí ìïõóéêÝò óõíáõëßåò, ðáñåëÜóåéò, ðáñáäïóéáêÜ ôñáãïýäéá êáé ÷ïñïýò, íá äéáóêåäÜóïõí óôçí õðáßèñéá ÌåóáéùíéêÞ ÂõæáíôéíÞ ÁãïñÜ êáé íá ðáñáêïëïõèÞóïõí èåáôñéêÜ äñþìåíá êáèþò êáé ôçí öáíôáóìáãïñéêÞ áíáðáñÜóôáóç ôçò éóôïñéêÞò ðáñÜäïóçò ôçò ðüëçò
spiritual value of Kastoria during the Byzantine era. At the end of this tour we might be able to answer a series of questions that are most likely to come up, such as: Was Kastoria a place of exile in the Byzantine era? Apart from Alexios I, which other member of the Komnenos Dynasty was associated with Kastoria? Does the interior of a well-known church in Kastoria present a prayer to Allah? Was Kastoria ever the seat of an Empire? The duration of this tour is approximately two and a half hours, which is probably less than the time you will need to answer the above questions. Let us end our tour of the city's historical monuments and the wider region's unparalleled natural landscape with one more touch and one last stop, the ALEXIADA festival, a truly interesting event, and the inevitable requiem, the famous Ragoutsaria carnival. The Medieval Byzantine Festival of Alexiada is usually held by the Municipality of Kastoria at the end of summer and in the early days of autumn. The Alexiada festival owes its name to Anna Komnene's reference to Kastoria in her historical text titled Alexiad, in which she describes the occupation of the city by the Normans and its epic liberation by Emperor Alexios I Komnenos in 1083 AD. This is a remarkably original festival full of character, which attempts to bring history to life through music, images, colours, words and even flavours in a harmonious union of futuristic and romantic views about a historical representation with many elements of today… as pompous as this may sound. During the festival visitors have the opportunity to go on a tour of historical monuments accompanied by images and sounds, they can enjoy concerts, parades,
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ðóêîâîäñòâà ìóíèöèïàëèòåòà ã. Êàñòîðüÿ è ïðîõîäèò òàì æå â êîíöå ëåòà ïåðâûõ ÷èñëàõ îñåíè.  èñòîðè÷åñêîì èñòî÷íèêå «Àëåêñèàäà» Àííà Êîìíèíà óïîìèíàåò î Êàñòîðüå, ãäå îïèñûâàåò îêêóïàöèþ ãîðîäà íîðìàííàìè è åãî ãåðîè÷åñêîå îñâîáîæäåíèå èìïåðàòîðîì Àëåêñèåì I Êîìíèíîì â 1083 ã. Ôåñòèâàëü ïîëó÷èë ñâîå íàçâàíèå îò ýòîãî ñîáûòèÿ. «Àëåêñèàäà» ýòî î÷åíü àòìîñôåðíûé è îðèãèíàëüíûé ôåñòèâàëü, êîòîðûé ïûòàåòñÿ ïåðåäàòü èñòîðèþ äî íàñòîÿùåãî âðåìåíè. Ýòî ìåñòî âñòðå÷è âîñòîêà ñ çàïàäîì, ïîâîä äëÿ ëþäåé èñêóññòâà ñî âñåãî ìèðà âñòðåòèòüñÿ çäåñü è âîçìîæíîñòü óçíàòü òðàäèöèè ñ ïîìîùüþ èñêóññòâà. «Àëåêñèàäà» - ýòî ìåñòî, ãäå îáúåäèíÿþòñÿ èñòîðèÿ è êóëüòóðíîå íàñëåäèå, âîçìîæíîñòü óçíàòü ïîøèðå âèçàíòèéñêóþ êóëüòóðó, òî÷êà ñîïðèêîñíîâåíèÿ ìåñòíîé êóëüòóðû ñ ìèðîâîé êóëüòóðîé. Âî âðåìÿ ôåñòèâàëÿ ãîñòè èìåþò âîçìîæíîñòü ïîñåòèòü è èçó÷èòü èñòîðè÷åñêèå ïàìÿòíèêè , íàñëàäèòüñÿ êîíöåðòàìè, ïàðàäàìè, òðàäèöèîííûå ïåñíÿìè è òàíöàìè, ðàçâëå÷üñÿ, ïîñìîòðåòü òåàòðàëüíûå ïðåäñòàâëåíèÿ è âïå÷àòëÿþùåå âîññîçäàíèå èñòîðè÷åñêàÿ ñäà÷è ãîðîäà âèçàíòèéñêîìó èìïåðàòîðó Àëåêñèþ I èç äèíàñòèè Êîìíèíîâ. È âñå ýòî ìîæíî óâèäåòü â ãîðîäå Êàñòîðüÿ, êîòîðûé, íåñîìíåííî, ÿâëÿåòñÿ èäåàëüíûì ìåñòîì äëÿ ïðîâåäåíèÿ ýòîãî äåéñòâèòåëüíî èñêëþ÷èòåëüíîãî êóëüòóðíîãî ñîáûòèÿ. Óíèêàëüíûå âèçàíòèéñêèå ïàìÿòíèêè, ðàçáðîñàííûå çäåñü, â ñî÷åòàíèè ñ áåñïðåöåäåíòíîé ïðèðîäíîé êðàñîòîé è ýíåðãèåé, ÿâëÿþòñÿ íàäåæíûì è òî÷íûì äåêîðîì, è ñîçäàþò âñå óñëîâèÿ, íåîáõîäèìûå äëÿ ïðåêðàñíîé îðãàíèçàöèè ôåñòèâàëÿ.
óôïí Âõæáíôéíü áõôïêñÜôïñá ÁëÝîéï Á' Êïìíçíü. Êáé üëá áõôÜ óå ìéá ðüëç, ôçí ÊáóôïñéÜ, ìéá ðüëç ðïõ áíáìöéóâÞôçôá ðñïóöÝñåôáé ùò ôï éäáíéêü óêçíéêü, êáèþò ôá ÂõæáíôéíÜ ìíçìåßá ðïõ åßíáé äéÜóðáñôá åäþ áðïôåëïýí Ýíá áîéüðéóôï, áëçèïöáíÝóôáôï íôåêüñ ðïõ óå óõíäõáóìü ìå ôçí áðáñÜìéëëç öõóéêÞ ïìïñöéÜ êáé ôçí åíÝñãåéá ðïõ äéá÷Ýåôå ãýñù, äçìéïõñãïýí ôéò óõíèÞêåò ìéáò ðñáãìáôéêÜ åîáéñåôéêÞò äéïñãÜíùóçò. Ôá ÑáãêïõôóÜñéá åßíáé ìéá ãéïñôÞ. Óôçí ïõóßá ðñüêåéôáé ãéá Ýíá ôñéÞìåñï åêäçëþóåùí êáñíáâáëéïý óôï äéÜóôçìá ôïõ ïðïßïõ ç ðüëç áðïêôÜåé îå÷ùñéóôü ÷ñþìá êáé ðáíçãõñéêÞ áôìüóöáéñá. Ôá ÑáãêïõôóÜñéá áñ÷ßæïõí óôéò 6 Éáíïõáñßïõ ôçí çìÝñá ôùí Èåïöáíßùí êáé ïëïêëçñþíïíôáé óôéò 8 Éáíïõáñßïõ (Ðáôåñßôóá), çìÝñá ôçò Áãßáò Äïìéíßêçò, ìå ôçí ðáñÝëáóç ôùí êáñíáâáëéóôþí. Ôï üíïìá êáé ç êáôáãùãÞ áõôïý ôïõ åèßìïõ åíôïðßæïíôáé óôçí êëáóéêÞ áñ÷áéüôçôá, áðü ôçí ïðïßá ìÝóù Ñþìçò (Saturnalia = ãéïñôÝò ðñïò ôéìÞ ôïõ Êñüíïõ) êáé Âõæáíôßïõ ìåôáöÝñèçêå óôéò ìÝñåò ìáò. Åßíáé ðïëý ðéèáíü ôï üíïìá íá ðñïÝñ÷åôáé áðü ôï ëáôéíéêü rogatores = æçôéÜíïé, ðïõ ðïëý åýóôï÷á ïñßæåé ôçí éäéüôçôá áõôïý ðïõ óõììåôÝ÷åé óôçí ïìÜäá ôùí ìåôáìöéåóìÝíùí. ÕðÜñ÷åé äçëáäÞ ç óõíÞèåéá ïé ìåôáìöéåóìÝíïé íá æçôïýí äéÜöïñá äþñá áðü ôá óðéôéêÜ ðïõ åðéóêÝðôïíôáé óå áíôáðüäïóç ôçò óõíåéóöïñÜò ôïõò óôçí áðïìÜêñõíóç ôïõ êáêïý ðíåýìáôïò. ¸ôóé áêüìá êáé ôï üíïìá, ìáò ïäçãåß óôïí åíôïðéóìü
traditional singing and dancing; they can have fun in the Medieval Byzantine Marketplace, watch theatrical performances as well as the spectacular revival of the historical tradition of the city in honour of the Byzantine Emperor Alexios I Komnenos. And all this happens in the city of Kastoria, a city that unquestionably offers itself as the ideal setting, considering that the Byzantine monuments scattered here and there are reliable and plausible decorations which, combined with the unsurpassed natural beauty and energy that is spread all around, create the conditions for a truly remarkable event. Ragoutsaria is a three-day celebration with carnival events. During this carnival the city becomes more colourful and festive. The Ragoutsaria carnival begins on 6 January, on the celebration of the Epiphany, and ends on 8 January (Pateritsa custom), on the feast day of Saint Dominiki, with the carnival parade. The name and origin of this custom go back to classical antiquity, and have been passed on to us by Rome (Saturnalia = feasts in honour of the deity Saturn) and Byzantium. It is very likely that the name originates from the Latin word rogatores (meaning beggars), which aptly defines the status of the disguised participants in the group. It is customary for the carnival participants to ask for gifts when visiting houses in exchange for their contribution to casting
Êàæäûé ãîä ïðÿìî â ñåðäöå çèìû â Êàñòîðüÿ ïðîõîäèò íåîáûêíîâåííûé ïðàçäíèê êàðíàâàëüíîãî âåñåëüÿ «Ðàãóöàðüÿ». Êàðíàâàë «Ðàãóöàðüÿ» ïðîõîäèò ñ 6-ãî ïî 8-ãî ÿíâàðÿ, âîñõîäÿ ñâîèìè êîðíÿìè ê äðåâíèì Äèîíèñèéñêèì ïðàçäíèêàì, ïðîõîäèâøèì â Ãðåöèè åùå ñ íåçàïàìÿòíûõ âðåìåí.  ýòè äíè ó÷àñòíèêè êàðíàâàëà âåñåëÿòñÿ îò äóøè, çàáûâ îáî âñåõ ïðîáëåìàõ è çàáîòàõ, íàêîïèâøèõñÿ çà ãîä, è óòðàòèâ îùóùåíèå âîçðàñòà è ñîöèàëüíîãî ñòàòóñà âåäü êàðíàâàë ýòî êóëüìèíàöèÿ íîâîãîäíèõ è ðîæäåñòâåíñêèõ ïðàçäíèêîâ â Êàñòîðüå. Âñå óëî÷êè è ïåðåóëêè ãîðîäà ñòàíîâÿòñÿ ñöåíîé äëÿ êàðíàâàëüíûõ øåñòâèé, ïëîùàäêàìè äëÿ òàíöåâ, ïåñåí, ìíîãî÷èñëåííûõ òåàòðàëèçîâàííûõ ïðåäñòàâëåíèé. Îðãàíèçàòîðû ìåðîïðèÿòèÿ óãîùàþò ñâîèõ ãîñòåé ãðå÷åñêèìè âèíàìè è òðàäèöèîííûìè ñëàäîñòÿìè. Ïðàçäíèê ñîïðîâîæäàåòñÿ òåàòðàëüíûìè ïðåäñòàâëåíèÿìè, êîíêóðñàìè è âñåâîçìîæíûìè àòòðàêöèîíàìè. Ïîìèìî ýòîãî, â êàðíàâàëå ïðèíèìàþò ó÷àñòèå ìíîãèå äóõîâûå îðêåñòðû, ÷òî ïðèäàåò ïðàçäíèêó íåïîâòîðèìûé êîëîðèò. Íàçâàíèå êàðíàâàëà «Ðàãóöàðüÿ» ïðîèñõîäèò îò ëàòèíñêîãî ñëîâà rogatores «íèùèå», ïîñêîëüêó âñå ïåðåîäåòûå â êàðíàâàëüíóþ îäåæäó, ñî ñïðÿòàííûìè ïîä ñàìîäåëüíûìè ìàñêàìè ëèöàìè, îáõîäÿò äîì çà äîìîì, ïðèâåòñòâóÿ
ÊáóôïñéÜ/ Kastoria/ Êàñòîðüÿ
ôïõ åèßìïõ óôçí áñ÷áéüôçôá. Óôá ÑáãêïõôóÜñéá ðáßñíïõí ìÝñïò «ìðïõëïýêéá», ôï êáèÝíá ìå ôçí äéêÞ ôïõ ðáñáäïóéáêÞ ïñ÷Þóôñá ÷Üëêéíùí, üëïé ïé Êáóôïñéáíïß, Üíôñåò êáé ãõíáßêåò, ìéêñïß êáé ìåãÜëïé, êáé ìáæß ôïõò ÷éëéÜäåò åðéóêÝðôåò, ðïõ ãëåíôïýí åðß ôñßá ìåñüíõ÷ôá ìå ÷éëßùí ëïãéþí ìåôáìöéÝóåéò óôïõò äñüìïõò ôçò ðüëçò ìÝóá óå Ýíá áëçèéíü ðáíæïõñëéóìü. ¸íá ëáïãñáöéêü öåóôéâÜë áéóèÞóåùí êáé ðáñáéóèÞóåùí…
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out evil spirits. So, even the name leads us to identify the roots of this custom in antiquity. People participate in the Ragoutsaria carnival in “hordes” (bouloukia), each with its own traditional brass band, locals, men and women, young and old, along with thousands of visitors celebrating over three days and nights with thousands of different disguises through the streets of the city in what can only be described as a pandemonium. A folkloric festival of sense and delusion… So then we choose Kastoria, forever…
õîçÿåâ è ïðîñÿò ó õîçÿåê îäàðèòü èõ óãîùåíèÿìè è äåíüãàìè, ÷òîáû èçãíàòü èç äîìîâ çëûõ äóõîâ, èçâîäÿùèõ ñåìüþ. Íà÷àëî ïðàçäíèêà «Ðàãóöàðüÿ» ïðèõîäèòñÿ íà äåíü Áîãîÿâëåíèÿ, 6-îå ÿíâàðÿ, ïîñëå ïîãðóæåíèÿ êðåñòà è îñâÿùåíèÿ âîä, à çàâåðøàåòñÿ êàðíàâàë 8-ãî ÿíâàðÿ, â äåíü ñâ. Äîìèíèêè, êàðíàâàëüíûì øåñòâèåì, òàê íàçûâàåìàÿ «ïàòåðèöà» (÷òî â ïåðåâîäå íà ðóññêèé ÿçûê îçíà÷àåò «êîñòûëü»), êîòîðîå äëèòñÿ íåñêîëüêî ÷àñîâ (ïîòîìó, ÷òî õîäÿò ìåäëåííî áóäòî íà êîñòûëÿõ), â êîòîðîì ïðèíèìàþò ó÷àñòèå ìíîãî÷èñëåííûå ó÷àñòíèêè, îäåòûå â ðàçíîîáðàçíåéøèå ÿðêèå è óäèâèòåëüíî êðàñî÷íûå êàðíàâàëüíûå êîñòþìû, ïîä ñîïðîâîæäåíèå äóõîâûõ îðêåñòðîâ... Èòàê, Êàñòîðüÿ íàâñåãäà...
“Åðß ôïí ôýðïí ôùí Þëùí” A journey through Xanthi Prefecture “Getting to the point” Ïóòåøåñòâèå â îêðóã Êñàíòè “Âíèêàÿ â ñóòü äåëà”
ÎÜíèç/ Xanthi/ Êñàíòè
Ðñïóðáèþ íá ôáîéíïìÞóù ôéò åéêüíåò ðïõ óõóóùñåýïíôáé ìðñïóôÜ ìïõ. Åéêüíåò ðïõ áðïôõðþèçêáí óôï ìéêñü ÷ñïíéêü äéÜóôçìá ðïõ êñÜôçóå ôïýôï ôï ïäïéðïñéêü óå áõôÞí ôçí ôüóï éäéáßôåñç ðåñéï÷Þ, ôçí ðñïéêéóìÝíç áðü ìéá èåúêÞ èá Ýëåãå êáíåßò ãáëáíôïíïìßá. Ðñïóðáèþ íá áðïöýãù ôéò õðåñâïëÝò, ôéò ëåêôéêÝò áêñïâáóßåò ðïõ ðïëëÝò öïñÝò ïäçãåß ï åíèïõóéáóìüò ôïõò ôáîéäåõôÝò, ôïõò ôáîéäåõôÝò ðïõ áíáêáëýðôïõí ôçí õðåñâáôéêüôçôá ôïõ ñåáëéóôéêïý, Ýôóé áíáðÜíôå÷á, áðü ôï ðïõèåíÜ, åßôå ðñüêåéôáé ãéá äçìéïõñãÞìáôá ôçò öýóçò, åßôå ðñüêåéôáé ãéá áíèñþðéíåò ðáñåìâÜóåéò ðïõ îáöíéÜæïõí åõ÷Üñéóôá. Ðñïóðáèþ íá óõíôáéñéÜîù ôéò óêüñðéåò åéêüíåò ðïõ áé÷ìáëùôéóìÝíåò óôï ïðôéêü íåýñï øÜ÷íïõí äéÝîïäï, óå ìéá ðåñéãñáöÞ ðïõ ï êõñéüôåñïò öüâïò åßíáé ðéèáíüôáôá íá áäéêçèïýí. Íá áäéêçèïýí áðü ìéá êåéìåíéêÞ áíôéðáñÜèåóç ðïõ äåí åßíáé äõíáôüí íá áíôáðïêñéèåß óôïõò ç÷ï÷ñùìáôéóìïýò ôïõò. ÈÝëù ùò åê ôïýôïõ íá äéáëÝîù ðñïóå÷ôéêÜ ôéò ëÝîåéò, áí êáé ïé áíÜêáôåò íôïðéïëáëéÝò åäþ, øéëïáðïôåëïýí ôñï÷ïðÝäç, èá Ýëåãá. Ï ðïôáìüò ÍÝóôïò ðÝñá áðü Ýíá öõóéêü óýíïñï, ìéá êáé ÷ùñßæåé ôïí íïìü ôçò ÎÜíèçò áðü ôçí Ìáêåäïíßá êáé ôïí íïìü ôçò ÊáâÜëáò, áðïôåëåß ôçí ðéï åíäéáöÝñïõóá ßóùò åéóáãùãÞ. ÅéóáãùãÞ ãéá åêåßíïí ôïí ôáîéäåõôÞ ðïõ øÜ÷íåé áðü ôï ðñþôï âÞìá, øÜ÷íåé ôï åñÝèéóìá ôçò èåôéêÞò ðñïäéÜèåóçò óôçí ÷Üñáîç ôçò ñüôáò ôïõ, ôçò ñüôáò ãéá ôçí êáèïëéêÞ ãíùñéìßá ôïõ ôüðïõ. Áõôïý ôïõ ôüðïõ ðïõ åðÝëåîå íá åðéóêåöèåß êáé íá ðáñïõóéÜóåé. Åäþ ðñáãìáôéêÜ ôï öõóéêü ðåñéâÜëëïí åßíáé áîåðÝñáóôï óå ïìïñöéÜ. ÁñêåôÝò öï-
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I am trying to organise the images that are gathering in front of me, images that were imprinted on my mind on my short journey through this unique region, which has been abundantly blessed by the divine. I am trying to avoid exaggeration the linguistic acrobatics to which enthusiasm often leads travellers who discover the transcendence of the realistic, unexpectedly and out of the blue, whether caused by the creations of nature or by human interventions that come as a pleasant surprise. I am trying to put together the scattered images that have been captured by the visual nerve and are desperately trying to find their way to a description, the main fear being that this description will not do them justice. An injustice that is practically inevitable as a textual presentation cannot possibly match up to the sounds and colours of these images. I must therefore choose my words carefully, although the jumbled vernacular here is somewhat of a hindrance, might I say. Nestos River, a natural border that separates Xanthi prefecture from the prefectures of Macedonia and Kavala, is perhaps the most interesting introduction for travellers who, from the moment they set foot in a place, seek a stimulus that will inspire them to plan the route that will acquaint them with the entire area, the area they have chosen to visit and present. The beauty of this natural environment is truly unparalleled. Many times during my visit I felt the need to compare the river and its banks to images that have been
Ïûòàþñü ðàçîáðàòüñÿ â êàðòèíàõ, âîçíèêàþùèõ ïåðåäî ìíîé. Êàðòèíàõ, çàïå÷àòëåííûõ â ìîåé ïàìÿòè çà ñòîëü êîðîòêèé ïðîìåæóòîê âðåìåíè, êîòîðûé ïîòðåáîâàëñÿ äëÿ ïóòåøåñòâèÿ â ýòó îñîáåííóþ îáëàñòü, òàê ùåäðî îäàðåííóþ Áîãîì. Ñòàðàþñü èçáåãàòü êðàéíîñòåé, ñëîâåñíîé àêðîáàòèêè, ê êîòîðîé òàê ÷àñòî ïðèâîäèò ýíòóçèàçì ïóòåøåñòâåííèêîâ, îáíàðóæèâàþùèõ ïðåâîñõîäñòâî ðåàëüíîñòè, âîçíèêàþùåé òàê íåîæèäàííî, ñëîâíî èç íè÷åãî, áóäü òî òâîðåíèÿ ïðèðîäû, áóäü òî âìåøàòåëüñòâî ÷åëîâåêà, êîòîðûå óäèâëÿþò ïðèÿòíî. Ïûòàþñü ñîáðàòü âîåäèíî ðàçáðîñàííûå êàðòèíû, ïëåíåííûå îïòè÷åñêèì íåðâîì, êîòîðûå ïûòàþòñÿ íàéòè âûõîä, â îïèñàíèè, ãäå, ñàìûé áîëüøîé ñòðàõ ýòî äîïóñòèòü íåñïðàâåäëèâîñòü. Íåñïðàâåäëèâîñòü, âûçâàííóþ íåâîçìîæíîñòüþ òåêñòîâûìè ñîïîñòàâëåíèÿìè îòîáðàçèòü çâóêè è êîëîðèò. Ïîýòîìó ÿ ïîïûòàþñü ñ îñòîðîæíîñòüþ âûáèðàòü ñëîâà, õîòÿ ìåñòíûé ñìåøàííûé äèàëåêò, ýòîìó ñëåãêà ìåøàåò, ÿ áû ñêàçàë. Ðåêà Íåñòîñ, êðîìå åñòåñòâåííîé ãðàíèöû, ðàçäåëÿþùåé îêðóã Êñàíôè îò Ìàêåäîíèè è îêðóãà Êàâàëû, ÿâëÿåòñÿ, ïîæàëóé, ñàìûì èíòåðåñíûì ââåäåíèåì ê ýòîìó ïóòåøåñòâèþ. Ââåäåíèåì äëÿ ïóòåøåñòâåííèêà, êîòîðûé ñ ïåðâîãî øàãà èùåò ñòèìóë ä ë ÿ ï î ë î æ è ò å ë ü í î é ïðåäðàñïîëîæåííîñòè, íàìå÷àÿ ìàðøðóò äëÿ ïîëíåéøåãî çíàêîìñòâà ñ ìåñòíîñòüþ. Ñ ìåñòíîñòüþ, êîòîðóþ îí âûáðàë äëÿ ïîñåùåíèÿ è ïðåçåíòàöèè. Çäåñü, ïîèñòèíå, îêðóæàþùàÿ ïðèðîäà ÿâëÿåòñÿ íåïðåâçîéäåííîé ïî
ñÝò óôéò çìÝñåò ðïõ ôïí åðéóêÝöôçêá ìïõ ãåííÞèçêå ç áíÜãêç íá ôïí ðáñïìïéÜóù, ôïí ðïôáìü êáé ôçí ðáñü÷èéá ãç ðïõ ôïí óõíôñïöåýåé, ìå áðïôõðùìÝíåò åéêüíåò áðü áëëÜ ðñïãåíÝóôåñá ôáîßäéá ìïõ. ¼÷é ãéáôß ç ïðïéáäÞðïôå óýãêñéóç èá äéáöïñïðïéïýóå ôï áðïôÝëåóìá, áëëÜ áðü ìéá åããåíÞ ìáôáéïäïîßá ßóùò ôçò ðëçñüôçôáò, ôçò ðëçñüôçôáò áðü ìéá óåéñÜ ðáñüìïéåò åéêüíåò. Åéêüíåò, êëçñïäïôÞìáôá áðü ìéá áôåëåßùôç äéáäñïìÞ ôá ôåëåõôáßá ÷ñüíéá óôçí åëëçíéêÞ ðåñéöÝñåéá. ¸íïéùóá üôé ìáôáéïðïíþ êáé áõôü åßíáé Ýíá óõíáßóèçìá ðïõ áí êáé ïîýìùñï ìå ÷áñïðïßçóå. Ï ÍÝóôïò åßíáé ìïíáäéêüò. ºóùò ïôéäÞðïôå íá ãñáöôåß ðåñéóóüôåñï, ðéèáíüôáôá íá åßíáé åê ôïõ ðåñéóóïý. Êáé íá áðïäõíáìþóåé åôóé áêïýóéá ôï áðïôÝëåóìá. Óõ÷íÜ ôá ëüãéá ìïéÜæïõí ðïëý áäýíáìá, ãéá íá åßíáé áîéüðéóôá íôïêïõìÝíôá. Èá Þìïõí üìùò íïìßæù õðüëïãïò, áí óå áõôÞ ôçí ðáñïõóßáóç äåí áöéÝñùíá ÷þñï ãéá ìéá óåéñÜ ôïðßá ðïõ óôçí ïõóßá áíÞêïõí óôï ßäéï ïéêïóýóôçìá. Ïéêïóýóôçìá ìå ôçí åõñýôåñç Ýííïéá ôçò ÷ùñïôáîéêÞò áíôéìåôþðéóçò. Óôï ßäéï ïéêïóýóôçìá ìå ôïí ðïôáìü ÍÝóôï. Îåêéíþíôáò áðü âüñåéá ëïéðüí áîßæåé íá óôáèïýìå óôá ËéâåñÜ, áöéåñþíïíôáò Ýíá ìåãÜëï êïììÜôé ôçò áíáæÞôçóçò ìáò óôï ðáëéü åãêáôáëåëåéììÝíï óéäçñïäñïìéêü
imprinted on my mind from my previous trips. Not because any comparison would alter the result, this need mainly arose from an inherent false pride, perhaps of the completeness that comes with a series of similar images that have been endowed upon me in recent years on my endless journey through the Greek countryside. I felt like é was squaring the circle, and although this is a contradictory feeling, it gave me a sense of joy. Nestos is unique. To write anything further would only be redundant and would inadvertently weaken the result. Words often appear too weak to be perceived as reliable facts. It would be an oversight on my part if, during this presentation, I did not devote some time to a series of landscapes that essentially belong to the same ecosystem as Nestos River and when I say ecosystem I mean it in the broader sense of spatial arrangement. Beginning our journey in the north, it is definitely worth our while to make a stop at Livera and dedicate a large part of our quest to the old, abandoned railway station. To talk about the natural environment once again would certainly be a redundancy. I do not believe I could add much to its beauty. I do however feel that in this marchland, the place
êðàñîòå. Ìíîãî ðàç â òå äíè, êîãäà ÿ ïîñåòèë åå, ó ìåíÿ ðîæäàëàñü ïîòðåáíîñòü óïîäîáèòü ðåêó è îêðóæàþùåå åå ïîáåðåæüå ñ êàðòèíàìè, çàïå÷àòëåííûìè èç ìîèõ äðóãèõ, ïðåäøåñòâóþùèõ ïóòåøåñòâèé. Íå ïîòîìó, ÷òî ëþáîå ñðàâíåíèå ìîãëî áû èçìåíèòü èñõîä, íî èç-çà âîçìîæíî, âðîæäåííîãî òùåñëàâèÿ, çàâåðøåííîñòè ïîäîáíûõ êàðòèí. Êàðòèíû, óíàñëåäîâàííûå îò áåñêîíå÷íîãî ìàðøðóòà çà ïîñëåäíèå ãîäû, ïðîäåëàííîãî ïî ãðå÷åñêîé ïåðèôåðèè. ß ÷óâñòâîâàë, ÷òî íàïðàñíî ïðèëàãàþ óñèëèÿ è ýòî ÷óâñòâî, êîòîðîå, õîòÿ è ïðîòèâîðå÷èâîå, ìåíÿ îáðàäîâàëî. Ðåêà Íåñòîñ ýòî óíèêàëüíàÿ ðåêà. Íàâåðíîå, ëþáîå äðóãîå îïèñàíèå áûëî áû èçëèøíèì. È, íå æåëàÿ òîãî, îñëàáëÿåò ðåçóëüòàò. ×àñòî ñëîâà êàæóòñÿ ñëèøêîì ñëàáûìè, ÷òîáû ñëóæèòü äîñòîâåðíûìè äîêóìåíòàìè. ß áûë áû áåçîòâåòñòâåííûì, åñëè áû â äàííîé ïðåçåíòàöèè íå óïîìÿíóë ñåðèþ ïåéçàæåé, ïðèíàäëåæàùèõ ê òîé æå ýêîñèñòåìå. Ýêîñèñòåìå, â ñàìîì øèðîêîì ñìûñëå ñëîâà, ïðîñòðàíñòâåííîãî ïîäõîäà. Ýêîñèñòåìà ðåêè Íåñòîñ. Èòàê, íà÷èíàÿ ñ ñåâåðà, ñòîèò îñòàíîâèòüñÿ â Ëèâåðà, ïîñâÿùàÿ áîëüøóþ ÷àñòü íàøåãî ïîèñêà ñòàðîé
ÎÜíèç/ Xanthi/ Êñàíòè
óôáèìü. Èá áðïôåëïýóå ìÜëëïí ðëåïíáóìü íá îáíáìéëÞóù ãéá ôï öõóéêü ðåñéâÜëëïí. Äåí íïìßæù üôé èá ìðïñïýóá íá ðñïóèÝóù ðïëëÜ ãéá ôçí ïìïñöéÜ ôïõ. Íïéþèù üìùò üôé ôïýôï ôï ôïðùíýìéï óå áõôÞ ôçí áêñéôéêÞ ãç, Ý÷åé ìéá åîáéñåôéêÜ åðéêßíäõíç äõíáôüôçôá áõèõðïâïëÞò, ôï áéóèÜíåóáé áðü ôçí ðñþôç óôéãìÞ, óå äéáðåñíÜ, íïåñÜ, Ý÷åéò ôçí øåõäáßóèçóç üôáí âñåèåßò åêåß, üôé äåí åßóáé Ýíáò áðëüò åðéóêÝðôçò, Ýíáò áêüìç öõóéïëÜôñçò ðåñéçãçôÞò. Íïéþèåéò íá ìåôïõóéþíåóáé, íïéþèåéò üôé óõììåôÝ÷åéò, ðñùôáãùíéóôÞò, ìðïñåß êáé êïìðÜñóïò, äåí Ý÷åé óçìáóßá, óå Ýíá ñéìåéê ìéáò ôáéíßáò ðïõ Ý÷åéò îáíáäåß êÜðïõ,êÜðïôå. ¼ëá áðåßñá÷ôá, áíÝããé÷ôá, üðùò ôüôå óôçí äåêáåôßá ôïõ 50 êáé ôïõ 60,ðïõ ç æùÞ åß÷å åäù ðÝñá Üëëïõò ñõèìïýò. Ñõèìïýò åí ðïëëïßò ñÜèõìïõò âÝâáéá, áóïñôé èá Ýëåãá ìå ôïõò áñãïêßíçôïõò “ìïõíôæïýñçäåò” Þ ôïõò “êáñâïõíéÜñçäåò”, áí ðñïôéìÜôáé, ôïõò êáñâïõíéÜñçäåò óõñìïýò ôïõ ôñáßíïõ, óôçí êáèçìåñéíÞ óéóýöåéá äéáäñïìÞ ôïõò. ÕðÜñ÷åé ôþñá Ýíá ìïíïðÜôé ðïõ îåêéíÜ ëßãï Ýîù áðü ôï ÷ùñéü ÃáëÜíç êáé áêïëïõèþíôáò áíÜðïäá ôï ñïõ ôïõ ðïôáìïý öèÜíåé óôá ËéâåñÜ êáé ôïí ðáëéü óôáèìü ôùí ôñáßíùí. Åßíáé áñêåôÞ áðüóôáóç 14-15 ÷éëéüìåôñá, üìùò Ý÷ù ôçí áßóèçóç üôé ç äéáäñïìÞ åßíáé åìðåéñßá æùÞò. ¼ðùò åìðåéñßá ìå áñêåôÞ äüóç ßóùò áäñåíáëßíçò åßíáé ç êáôÜâáóç ôïõ ðïôáìïý ìå êáíïå êáãéÜê Áäñåíáëßíç ãéá ôïõò áðáßäåõôïõò, ìéá êáé ãåíéêÜ ï ÍÝóôïò èåùñåßôáé Þðéïò ãéá ôÝôïéïõ åßäïõò extreme êáôáóôÜóåéò. Ç Óôáõñïýðïëç èá ìðïñïýóå íá Þôáíå ìéá ôõðéêÞ êùìüðïëç áðü áõôÝò ðïõ õðÜñ÷ïõí äéÜóðáñôåò óôçí çðåéñùôéêÞ ÅëëÜäá. ×ùñßò ðïëëÜðïëëÜ éäéáßôåñá ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêÜ, äß÷ùò äéáìïñöùìÝíç ïéêéóôéêÞ áíôßëçøç. Äåí åßíáé üìùò êáèüëïõ Ýôóé åäþ.
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name has an extremely dangerous auto suggestive power, you can sense it from the very first moment, penetrating your body and mind. Once you are there, you have the illusion that you are not a mere visitor, another natureloving tourist. You feel yourself being transformed, you feel like a participant, a protagonist or perhaps even a background actor (it makes no difference) in the remaking of a movie that you had once seen. Everything is unspoiled and untouched, like it was back in the 50s and 60s when life here had a different pace, a leisurely pace that was in synch with that of the sluggish coalfired trains on their daily toilsome routes. There is a small path that begins a little outside the village of Galani and if you follow this path, contrary to the flow of the river, you will reach Livera and the old railway station. It is quite a distance (14-15 kilometres), but the route is certainly a life experience, as is going down the river in a canoe - kayak, which also offers a strong dose of adrenalin, especially to the inexperienced, seeing as Nestos is generally considered mild in terms of such extreme experiences. Stavroupoli could have been a typical town such as those we find scattered in mainland Greece, a town without any special features, lacking a solid residential structure. It is nohing like that though. At the very first glance one can tell that this place certainly is an exception to the rule. Stavroupoli is a model residential paradise with exceptional architectural structures, restored buildings that were worked on by different craftsmen and contemporary infrastructure harmonised with the philosophy of showing respect to dominant tradition. I remember first visiting the town in the late 70s or maybe even in the early 80s, I am not sure as it was
çàáðîøåííîé æåëåçíîäîðîæíîé ñòàíöèè. Áûëî áû èçëèøíèì âíîâü ãîâîðèòü îá îêðóæàþùåé ïðèðîäå. Íå äóìàþ, ÷òîáû ñìîã áû äîáàâèòü ìíîãîå î åå êðàñîòå. ×óâñòâóþ, îäíàêî, ÷òî ýòîò òîïîíèì íà ïîãðàíè÷íîé çåìëå îáëàäàåò êðàéíå îïàñíîé âîçìîæíîñòüþ ñàìîâíóøåíèÿ, ÷òî ÷óâñòâóåòñÿ ñ ïåðâîãî ìîìåíòà, ïðîíèêàåò íàñêâîçü, â óì. Îêàçàâøèñü òàì, ó âàñ ïîÿâëÿåòñÿ èëëþçèÿ, ÷òî âû íå ïðîñòîé ïîñåòèòåëü, î÷åðåäíîé ëþáèòåëü ïðèðîäû è ïóòåøåñòâåííèê. Âû ïî÷óâñòâóåòå èçìåíåíèå ñóùíîñòè, ñâîå ó÷àñòèå, ÷òî âû ÿâëÿåòåñü ãëàâíûì äåéñòâóþùèì ëèöîì, à ìîæåò è ñòàòèñòîì, íå èìååò çíà÷åíèå, â ðèìåéêå ôèëüìà, êîòîðûé âû âèäåëè ðàíüøå ãäåòî, êîãäà-òî. Âñå íåòðîíóòî, êàê ðàíüøå, â 50-ûõ è 60-ûõ ãîäàõ, êîãäà æèçíü çäåñü èìåëà ñîâñåì äðóãèå ðèòìû. Ðèòìîâ, â çíà÷èòåëüíîé ñòåïåíè çàìåäëåííûõ, ñîîòâåòñòâóþùèõ, êàê ÿ áû ñêàçàë, ìåäëèòåëüíûìè òðóáî÷èñòàìè è óãîëüùèêàìè, åñëè óãîäíî, ñ óãîëüíûìè âàãîíàìè ïîåçäà â èõ ñèçèôîâûõ ìàðøðóòàõ. Íåäàëåêî îò äåðåâíè Ãàëàíè åñòü îäíà òðîïèíêà, êîòîðàÿ ñëåäóåò ïðîòèâ òå÷åíèÿ ðåêè è äîñòèãàåò Ëèâàäåðà è ñòàðîãî æåëåçíîäîðîæíîãî âîêçàëà. Ðàññòîÿíèå äîñòàòî÷íî áîëüøîå, 14-15 êì, îäíàêî, ÷óâñòâóþ, ÷òî ýòîò ìàðøðóò íàñòîÿùèé æèçíåííûé îïûò. Ñïóñê ïî ðåêå íà êàíîý êàÿêå ïîçâîëèò èñïûòàòü íåçàáûâàåìîå îùóùåíèå ïðèëèâà àäðåíàëèíà, îñîáåííî äëÿ òåõ, êòî íå èìååò îïûò ñïëàâà ïî ãîðíîé ðåêå. Âîîáùå-òî ðåêà Íåñòîñ ñ÷èòàåòñÿ ñïîêîéíîé ðåêîé äëÿ òàêîãî âèäà ýêñòðåìàëüíûõ âèäîâ ñïîðòà. Ñòàâðóïîëè ìîã áû áûòü îäíèì èç òèïè÷íûõ ãîðîäêîâ, ðàçáðîñàííûõ ïî ìàòåðèêîâîé Ãðåöèè. Áåç áîëüøèõ îñîáåííîñòåé, áåç ñôîðìèðîâàííîãî ëàíäøàôòà æèëîãî êîìïëåêñà. Íî ýòî ñîâñåì íå òàê. Ýòî îòëè÷èå çàìåòíî ñ ïåðâîãî âçãëÿäà. Ñòàâðóïîëè ÿâëÿåòñÿ ïðîòîòèïîì æèëîãî ðàÿ, ñ èñêëþ÷èòåëüíûìè àðõèòåêòóðíûìè
Åäþ ç åîáßñåóç áõôïðñïóäéïñßæåôáé ìå ôçí ðñþôç ìáôéÜ. Ç Óôáõñïýðïëç åßíáé Ýíáò ðñüôõðïò ïéêéóôéêüò ðáñÜäåéóïò, ìå åîáéñåôéêÝò áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÝò äïìÝò, ìå áíáðáëáéùìÝíá êôßñéá ðïõ ìáóôïñåýôçêáí áðü ôå÷íßôåò ìåñåìåôÜäåò,
many years back. What I do remember clearly is that Stavroupoli was the first town in Greece to implement Integrated Mediterranean Programmes (IMP) before Greece became a community
ìå õðïäïìÝò óýã÷ñïíåò, åíáñìïíéóìÝíåò üìùò óôç öéëïóïößá ôïõ óåâáóìïý ôçò êõñßáñ÷çò ðáñÜäïóçò ÈõìÜìáé üôé ôçí ðñùôïåðéóêÝöôçêá åêåß óôá ôÝëç ôçò äåêáåôßáò ôïõ 70, éóùò íá Þôáíå êáé óôéò áñ÷Ýò ôçò äåêáåôßáò ôïõ 80, äåí èõìÜìáé êáé ðïëý êáëÜ ìéá êáé Ý÷ïõí ðåñÜóåé áñêåôÜ ÷ñüíéá áðü ôüôå. Åêåßíï üìùò ðïõ äåí îå÷íþ åßíáé üôé ç Óôáõñïýðïëç Þôáíå ç ðñþôç ðüëç óôçí ÅëëÜäá ðïõ åß÷å õëïðïéÞóåé Ì.Ï.Ð (ÌåóïãåéáêÜ ÏëïêëçñùìÝíá ÐñïãñÜììáôá),ðñïôïý ç ÅëëÜäá ãßíåé êïéíïôéêÞ åôáßñïò. ÐñïãñÜììáôá ðïõ Þôáíå ðñüäñïìïé ôùí óçìåñéíþí Åõñùðáúêþí ðñïãñáììÜôùí êáé áðáéôïýíôáí óõãêåêñéìÝíåò ðñïûðïèÝóåéò ãéá ôçí áðïññüöçóç ôïõò. Êáé âÝâáéá áíïé÷ôÜ ìõáëÜ… Ï äÞìïò Óôáõñïýðïëçò êáé íïìßæù ï äÞìïò Áíùãåßùí óôçí ÊñÞôç Þôáíå ïé ðñùôïðüñïé êáé âÝâáéá ôßðïôå äåí ìðïñåß íá ÷áñáêôçñéóôåß ôõ÷áßï. Ç ðåñéï÷Þ äéáèÝôåé áíôáíáêëáóôéêÜ, êáé áõôü åßíáé ðñïöáíÝò óôïí åðéóêÝðôç. Ç ôïõñéóôéêÞ áíÜðôõîç ùò åê ôïýôïõ äåí õðÞñîå ðáíÜêåéá, áëëÜ Þñèå óáí öõóéêü åðáêüëïõèï êáé ôï óöõñéëÜôçìá ìéáò ôïõñéóôéêÞò óõíåßäçóçò ìå íôüðéá ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêÜ áðëÜ ðñüóèåóå «ôï êåñáóÜêé óôçí ôïýñôá». Åðüìåíïò óôáèìüò èá ìðïñïýóå íá Þôáíå ôï Êáñõüöõôï, Ýíáò ïéêéóìüò ðïõ áðü ôï 1976 Ý÷åé áíáêçñõ÷èåß ùò ðáñáäïóéáêüò åî´áéôßáò ôùí ðïëëþí êôéóìÜôùí ìå åíäéáöÝñïíôá áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÜ óôïé÷åßá. ÌÝíïõìå ëßãï åäþ, áí êáé ç áíôáíÜêëáóç ôùí åéêüíùí åßíáé ðéá êÜôé ðáñáðÜíù áðü åìöáíÞò óôçí üëç øõ÷ïóýíèåóÞ ìáò. Ìéá äéÜ÷õôç çñåìßá áíôéêáèéóôÜ ôéò óôåóóáñéóìÝíåò áíôéäñÜóåéò, êëçñïíïìéÜ ôïõ áã÷ùôéêïý ôñüðïõ æùÞò ðïõ ç êáèçìåñéíüôçôá Ý÷åé õéïèåôÞóåé, áãíïþíôáò ôéò óõíÝðåéåò. ÓõíÝðåéåò ðïõ åßíáé êáôáóôñåðôéêÝò äõóôõ÷þò. Ç åðüìåíç óôÜóç üìùò åéëéêñéíÜ åßíáé «üëá ôá ëåöôÜ». Ï êáôáññÜêôçò ôïõ Ëåéâáäßôç åßíáé ÷ùñßò ó÷üëéá ìéá áðü ôéò ðéï üìïñöåò ðéíåëéÝò ðïõ ÷ñçóéìïðïßçóå ï Äçìéïõñãüò üôáí óêéôóÜñéæå ôïýôïí ôïí ôüðï. Ìå ýøïò ó÷åäüí 40 ìÝôñá, åßíáé ï ìåãáëýôåñïò êáôáññÜêôçò ðïõ õðÜñ÷åé óôá ÂáëêÜíéá. Ðñïöáíþò ìå Ýíá ß÷íïò óùâéíéóìïý éóùò, íá ìðïñþ íá õðïóôçñßîù
partner. These programmes were the forerunners of today's European programmes and specific conditions had to be met in order for these programmes to be absorbed. Of course, their implementation also required open minds… The municipality of Stavroupoli and I believe the municipality of Anogeia on Crete were pioneers, and none of this happened by chance. The area has good reflexes, which is obvious to visitors. Tourism development was not a panacea, but came as a natural outcome, while the building of a tourism conscience with local characteristics was simply the cherry on top. The next stop would be Karyofyto, a village that has since 1976 been classified as 'traditional' due to its many buildings and interesting architectural elements. We will stay here for a while, although the reflection of images is now more than apparent to our mindset. A widespread sense of calmness replaces the stressed reactions that have been passed on to us by the stressful lifestyle that our everyday lives have adopted, while ignoring the consequences, which unfortunately are devastating. The next stop honestly 'takes the prize'. Leivaditis waterfall is without further comment one of our Creator's most beautiful drawings in this masterpiece of a place. With a height of approximately 40 metres, it is the largest waterfall in the Balkans. With a clear hint of chauvinism, I would say that it is one of the most beautiful natural landscapes in Europe, and I am certain that those who have visited it would probably agree. The river delta, the epilogue of a route filled with charming images, is an area that needs to be explored inch by inch, where one needs to listen to the symphony of sounds coming from hundreds of
ñ ò ð ó ê ò ó ð à ì è , âîññòàíîâëåííûìè çäàíèÿìè, îòðåìîíòèðîâàííûìè ìàñòåðàìè, ñ ñîâðåìåííîé è í ô ð à ñ ò ð ó ê ò ó ð î é , ñîãëàñîâàííîé, îäíàêî, ñ ôèëîñîôèåé óâàæåíèÿ ê òðàäèöèÿì. Ïîìíþ, ÷òî âïåðâûå ÿ ïîñåòèë ýòè ìåñòà â êîíöå 70-õ ãîäîâ, à ìîæåò, â íà÷àëå 80-õ ãã., íå ïîìíþ è òî÷íî, ïîñêîëüêó ïðîøëî ìíîãî ëåò ñ òåõ ïîð. Íî ÿ íå çàáûë, ÷òî Ñòàâðóïîëè ïåðâûé ãîðîä â Ãðåöèè, ãäå áûëè ðåàëèçîâàíû Èíòåãðèðîâàííûå Ñðåäèçåìíîìîðñêèå Ïðîãðàììû, ïðåæäå ÷åì Ãðåöèÿ ñòàëà ñîöèàëüíûì ïàðòíåðîì. Ýòè ïðîãðàììû ñòàëè ïðåäòå÷åé ñåãîäíÿøíèõ åâðîïåéñêèõ ïðîãðàìì è òðåáîâàëèñü êîíêðåòíûå ïðåäïîñûëêè äëÿ èõ îñóùåñòâëåíèÿ. È êîíå÷íî, îòêðûòûå óìû… Ìóíèöèïàëèòåò Ñòàâðóïîëè, è, ïî-ìîåìó, ìóíèöèïàëèòåò Àãîãèîí íà Êðèòå áûëè ïåðâîîòêðûâàòåëÿìè, è êîíå÷íî, ýòî íå ñëó÷àéíî. Ýòîò ðåãèîí èìååò áîëüøèå âîçìîæíîñòè, ÷òî î÷åâèäíî äëÿ åãî ïîñåòèòåëåé. Åãî òóðèñòè÷åñêîå ðàçâèòèå, îäíàêî, íå ÿâèëîñü ïàíàöååé, à ñòàëî åñòåñòâåííûì ðåçóëüòàòîì ðàçâèòèÿ òóðèñòè÷åñêîãî ñîçíàíèÿ ñ ìåñòíûìè õàðàêòåðèñòèêàìè è ïîñëåäíèì øòðèõîì äëÿ ðàçâèòèÿ ðåãèîíà. Ñëåäóþùèì ïóíêòîì ïóòåøåñòâèÿ ìîãëî áû ñòàòü Êàðèîôèòî, ïîñåëåíèå, êîòîðîå ñ 1976 ã. ïðîâîçãëàøåíî «òðàäèöèîííûì» áëàãîäàðÿ ìíîãî÷èñëåííûì ïîñòðîéêàì ñ èíòåðåñíûìè àðõèòåêòóðíûìè ý ë å ì å í ò à ì è . Ì û îñòàíàâëèâàåìñÿ çäåñü íåíàäîëãî, õîòÿ îòðàæåíèå êàðòèí óæå ñòàëî áîëåå ÷åì î÷åâèäíûì íàøåé ïñèõèêå. Îáùåå ñïîêîéñòâèå è áåçìÿòåæíîñòü çàìåíÿþò ñòðåññîâûå ðåàêöèè, íàñëåäñòâî íàïðÿæåííîãî îáðàçà æèçíè, óñûíîâëåííîãî ïîâñåäíåâíîñòüþ, èãíîðèðóÿ ïîñëåäñòâèÿ. Ïîñëåäñòâèÿ, êîòîðûå, ê ñîæàëåíèþ, ÿâëÿþòñÿ ðàçðóøèòåëüíûìè. Ñëåäóþùàÿ îñòàíîâêà çàñëóæèâàåò îñîáîãî âíèìàíèÿ. Âîäîïàä Ëèâàäèòèñ ÿâëÿåòñÿ áåçîãîâîðî÷íî îäíèì èç ñàìûõ êðàñèâûõ ìàçêîâ, èñïîëüçîâàííûõ Ñîçäàòåëåì ïðè íàáðîñêå ýñêèçà ýòîé ìåñòíîñòè. 40 ìåòðîâûé âîäîïàä Ëèâàäèòèñ ýòî ñàìûé áîëüøîé âîäîïàä íà Áàëêàíñêîì ïîëóîñòðîâå. Ñ íåêîòîðîé äîëåé øîâèíèçìà, ìîæåò áûòü, ìîãó óòâåðæäàòü, ÷òî ýòî îäèí èç ñàìûõ êðàñèâûõ
ÎÜíèç/ Xanthi/ Êñàíòè
üôé åßíáé áðü ôá ðéï üìïñöá öõóéêÜ ôïðßá óôçí Åõñþðç. Êáé åßìáé âÝâáéïò üôé üóïé ôïí Ý÷ïõí åðéóêåöèåß ìÜëëïí èá óõìöùíÞóïõí ìå áõôÞ ìïõ ôçí ôïðïèÝôçóç. Ôï ÄÝëôá ôïõ ðïôáìïý, ï åðßëïãïò ìéáò ðïñåßáò ãåìÜôçò ãïçôåõôéêÝò åéêüíåò, åßíáé ìéá ðåñéï÷Þ ðïõ ÷ñåéÜæåôáé íá åîåñåõíÞóåéò êÜèå óðéèáìÞ ôçò, ðïõ ÷ñåéÜæåôáé íá áöïõãêñáóôåßò ôïõò áíÜêáôïõò Þ÷ïõò áðü ôá åêáôïíôÜäåò åßäç áðïäçìçôéêÜ êáé åíäçìéêÜ ðïõëéþí ðïõ æïõí óôïí õãñüôïðï üëåò ôéò åðï÷Ýò ôïõ ÷ñüíïõ. Ôïýôï åßíáé ôï ìüíï áóöáëÝò êñéôÞñéï ãéá íá êáôáíïÞóåéò ôçí õðåñâáôéêüôçôá ôçò öýóçò ïðüôå áõôÞ åðéëÝãåé íá îåðåñÜóåé ôéò êáôáíïçôÝò ãñáììÝò ôçò, åðéëÝãåé íá êéíçèåß óôá üñéá ôçò ìïíáäéêüôçôáò. Ìðïñåß êáé óôá üñéá ôçò øåõäáßóèçóçò ãéá ôïí ïðïéïíäÞðïôå, ôïí ïðïéïíäÞðïôå ðïõ ïé ãñáììÝò ôùí ïñéæüíôùí ôïõ, åßíáé ðåñé÷áñáêùìÝíåò óôá óôåíÜ üñéá ôçò ãêñéæáñéóìÝíçò áóôéêÞò ðñáãìáôéêüôçôáò ôïõ. Êáé åäþ ç öýóç - êáëëéôÝ÷íçò äåí ôóéãêïõíåýôçêå êáèüëïõ, «ìá ôù Èåþ» óôá õëéêÜ ðïõ åß÷å óôçí äéÜèåóç ôçò. Áõôü åßíáé ïëïöÜíåñï. Ãéá ôçí ðáëéÜ ðüëç ôçò ÎÜíèçò èá Þèåëá íá ìéëÞóù óôï ôÝëïò ôïýôïõ ôïõ ïäïéðïñéêïý åßíáé áëÞèåéá. Èá Þôáíå Ýíáò éäáíéêüò åðßëïãïò Ý÷ù ôçí áßóèçóç, Ýíá äõíáôü ÷áñôß ãéá ôï êëåßóéìï ôïõ êåéìÝíïõ. Èá Ýðñåðå üìùò íá êÜíù ìéá õðÝñâáóç óå ìéá ðñïêáèïñéóìÝíç äéáäñïìÞ, Ýôóé óõíåéäçôÜ äåí ìðáßíù óôïí ðåéñáóìü íá ëïîïäñïìÞóù. Ôçí ðáëéÜ ðüëç ôçò ÎÜíèçò ëïéðüí èá êÜíù ìéá ðñïóðÜèåéá íá ðáñïõóéÜóù. Åßíáé áëÞèåéá üôé áìöéôá-
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migratory and nonmigratory bird species that live in the wetland all year round. This is the only safe criterion that will help you understand the transcendence of nature whenever it chooses to go beyond its graspable lines and tread on the boundaries of uniqueness, or even on the boundaries of illusion for those whose horizons are entrenched within the narrow boundaries of their grey urban reality. Here too, the artist known as nature was genuinely more than generous with the materials it had at its disposal. This is clear as day. The truth is that I would like to talk about the old city of Xanthi at the end of this journey. I have a feeling that it would make the perfect epilogue a strong card for the closing of this text. However, I would have to bypass a predeter-mined route and so I consciously choose to keep myself from the temptation of going off course. I will attempt to present the old city of Xanthi. The truth is that I am in a wavering state, uncertain about the tone that would be more graspable in a description that holds the real risk of escaping you on paper if you are unable to control the emotions that arise so naturally as you walk up the cobblestone alleys of the old district. You will inevitably fall in love with this neighbourhood at the very first glance, upon your entry into
ïåéçàæåé â Åâðîïå. È ÿ óâåðåí â òîì, ÷òî âñå òå, êòî ïîñåòèë ýòî ìåñòî, ñîãëàñÿòñÿ ñî ìíîé. Ýïèëîã íàøåãî ïóòåøåñòâèÿ, ïîëíîãî î÷àðîâàòåëüíûõ îáðàçîâ - äåëüòà ðåêè Íåñòîñ. Ýòà îáëàñòü, êàæäàÿ ïÿäü çåìëè êîòîðîé ìû äîëæíû èçó÷èòü. Íóæíî ïðèñëóøèâàòüñÿ ê áåñïîðÿäî÷íûå çâóêàì, èçäàâàåìûì ñîòíÿìè âèäîâ ïåðåëåòíûõ è ýíäåìè÷åñêèõ ïòèö, æèâóùèõ â âîäíîáîëîòíûõ óãîäüÿõ âî âñå âðåìåíà ãîäà. Ýòî åäèíñòâåííûé âåðíûé êðèòåðèé äëÿ ïîíèìàíèÿ ïðåâîñõîäñòâà ïðèðîäû, êîãäà îíà âûáèðàåò ïðåâûñèòü åå ïîíÿòíûå ëèíèè, è âûáèðàåò äâèæåíèå íà ãðàíèöå óíèêàëüíîñòè. Ìîæåò áûòü, è íà ãðàíèöàõ èëëþçèè äëÿ ëþáîãî, ÷üè ãîðèçîíòû îãðàíè÷åíû óçêèìè ðàìêàìè ãîðîäñêîé ñåðîé ðåàëüíîñòè. Îïÿòü æå, è çäåñü ïðèðîäà - õóäîæíèê íå ïîñêóïèëàñü è íàäåëèëà ýòîò èçóìèòåëüíûé óãîëîê ïðèðîäû âñåì, ÷òî èìåëà â ñâîåì ðàñïîðÿæåíèè. Ýòî ñîâåðøåííî î÷åâèäíî. Î ñòàðîì ãîðîäå Êñàíòè ÿ õîòåë áû ïîãîâîðèòü â êîíöå ïóòåøåñòâèÿ. Ó ìåíÿ åñòü îùóùåíèå, ÷òî ýòî áûë áû ïðåêðàñíûé ýïèëîã äëÿ çàâåðøåíèÿ ýòîãî ðàññêàçà. Îäíàêî, ÿ äîëæåí âûéòè çà ïðåäåëû çàðàíåå îïðåäåëåííîãî ìàðøðóòà, ïîýòîìó ñîçíàòåëüíî ñòàðàþñü íå âîéòè â ñîáëàçí ñáèòüñÿ ñ ïóòè. Èòàê, ÿ ïîïûòàþñü ïðåäñòàâèòü ñòàðûé ãîðîä Êñàíòè. Ïðàâäà, ÷òî ÿ êîëåáëþñü îòíîñèòåëüíî òîãî, êàêîé ñòèëü ìîã áûòü áîëåå äîñòóïíûì â îïèñàíèè, â êîòîðîì âåñüìà ðåàëüíîé ÿâëÿåòñÿ âåðîÿòíîñòü îïàñíîñòè íåõâàòêè ñëîâ, åñëè íå êîíòðîëèðóþòñÿ ýìîöèè, êîòîðàÿ âûçûâàþò ó òåáÿ ñïóñê ïî óçêèì óëî÷êàì ñòàðîãî ðàéîíà. Õî÷ó ïðîÿñíèòü, ÷òî â ýòîò ðàéîí ìîæíî âëþáèòüñÿ ñ ïåðâîãî âçãëÿäà, äàæå ñ ïåðâîãî êîíòàêòà ñ íèì. Îùóùåíèå, êîòîðîå âñïûõèâàåò è ðàçðàñòàåòñÿ ï ð è ê à ð ò è í à õ , ê î ò î ð û å ðàçâîðà÷èâàþòñÿ ïåðåä òîáîé, ñëîâíî òû äâèãàåøüñÿ ïî áåñêîíå÷íîé ñòóäèè õóäîæíèêà íåîðîìàíòèçìà, ñòàíîâèòñÿ ðåàëüíîñòüþ. Çäåñü êàæäîå ïðåóâåëè÷åíèå â ïîâåñòâîâàíèÿThe òùåòåí, ëþáàÿ ïîïûòêà â äàëüíåéøåì ñëîâåñíîãî ïðèóêðàøèâàíèÿ áåñïîëåçíà è âûñîêîìåðíà. Ñòàðûé ãîðîä Êñàíòè, áåç ñîìíåíèÿ, íå îáÿçàí ñâîèì ïðèñóòñòâèåì íåêîòîðîé ìîäåëè àâòîìàòèçèðîâàííîãî ïðîöåññà. Íàïðîòèâ, ÿâëÿåòñÿ ðåçóëüòàòîì âîñïðèÿòèÿ, ñôîðìèðîâàííîãî â ïðîöåññå ïðîõîæäåíèÿ ïóòè, îò íà÷àëüíîãî ïóíêòà, ñîðèåíòèðîâàííîãî íà îïðåäåëåííûé ðåçóëüòàò. Íàâåðíîå, åñëè áû õîòåëîñü âîçäàòü «Êåñàðþ êåñàðåâî», íàäî áûëî áû îñòàíîâèòüñÿ íà âûäàþùåéñÿ ëè÷íîñòè ýòîãî ãîðîäà, íà íåçàáâåííîì ìýðå Ôèëèïïîñå Àìèðèäèñå. Î ìå÷òàòåëå ìåñòíîãî ñàìîóïðàâëåíèÿ, âìåøàòåëüñòâî êîòîðîãî â íàïðàâëåíèå âûäâèæåíèÿ âñåõ êà÷åñòâåííûõ õàðàêòåðèñòèê ýòîãî ãîðîäà îñòàíåòñÿ íåèçãëàäèìûì
ÎÜíèç/ Xanthi/ Êñàíòè ëáíôåýïìáé áñêåôÜ, áìöéôáëáíôåýïìáé ãéá ôï ðéï ýöïò èá ìðïñïýóå íá åßíáé ðéï ðñïóåããßóéìï, ðéï ðñïóåããßóéìï óå ìéá ðåñéãñáöÞ ðïõ ï êßíäõíïò íá óïõ îåöýãåé êåéìåíéêÜ åßíáé åîáéñåôéêÜ õðáñêôüò, áí äåí åëåã÷èåß ôï óõíáßóèçìá ðïõ áâßáóôá óïõ âãáßíåé, êáèþò áíçöïñßæåéò ôá êáëíôåñéìßóéá óïêÜêéá ôçò ðáëéÜò óõíïéêßáò ÈÝëù íá îåêáèáñßóù üôé ôïýôç ç ãåéôïíéÜ åßíáé åñùôåýóéìç áðü ôçí ðñþôç ìáôéÜ, áðü ôçí ðñþôç áêüìá åðáöÞ åêåß óôï îåêßíçìá ôçò. ¸íá óõíáßóèçìá ðïõ íïéþèåéò íá öïõíôþíåé êáèþò îåäéðëþíïíôáé ïé åéêüíåò, êáèþò ç áßóèçóç üôé âñßóêåóáé êáé êéíåßóáé óôï áðÝñáíôï áôåëéÝ åíüò íåïñïìáíôéêïý êáëëéôÝ÷íç ãßíåôáé âéùìáôéêÞ ðñáãìáôéêüôçôá. Åäþ êÜèå õðåñâïëÞ ôçò áöÞãçóçò åßíáé ìáôáéïðïíßá, ç êÜèå ðñïóðÜèåéá ëåêôéêÞò åðß ðëÝïí ùñáéïðïéçóçò áíþöåëç êáé áëáæïíéêÞ. Ç ðáëéÜ ðüëç ôçò ÎÜíèçò áíáìöéóâÞôçôá äåí ïöåßëåé ôçí ðáñïõóßá ôçò óå êÜðïéï ìïíôÝëï áõôïìáôïðïéçìÝíçò äéáäéêáóßáò äåí åßíáé áðïôÝëåóìá ðáñèåíïãÝííçóçò. Áíôßèåôá åßíáé áðïôÝëåóìá ìéáò áíôßëçøçò ðïõ äéáìïñöþèçêå ìÝóá áðü ìéá ðïñåßá, ðïõ áðü ôçí áöåôçñßá ôçò áêüìá óôï÷ïðïéïýóå ôï óõãêåêñéìÝíï áðïôÝëåóìá. ºóùò âÝâáéá áí èá Þèåëå êáíÝíáò íá áðïäþóåé ôá «ôïõ Êáßóáñïò» èá Ýðñåðå íá óôáèåß óå ìéá îå÷ùñéóôÞ ðñïóùðéêüôçôá áõôÞò ôçò ðüëçò, ôïí áåßìíçóôï äÞìáñ÷ï Ößëéððï Áìïéñßäç. ¸íáí ïñáìáôéóôÞ ôçò ôïðéêÞò áõôïäéïßêçóçò, ðïõ ôï óôßãìá ôùí ðáñåìâÜóåùí ôïõ óôçí êáôåýèõíóç áíÜäåéîçò üëùí ôùí ðïéïôéêþí ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêþí ôïýôïõ ôïõ ôüðïõ èá ìÝíåé áíåîßôçëï óôï äéçíåêÝò. Ï Ößëéððïò Áìïéñßäçò õðÞñîå Ýíáò ðñùôïðüñïò, ï áñ÷éìÜóôïñáò ðïõ åíÝðíåõóå êáé ìåôÜããéóå ôçí áãÜðç ôïõ ãéá áõôÞ ôçí ðüëç, õðÞñîå ï ìðñïóôÜñçò óôçí äéáìüñöùóç ìéáò áíáìöéóâÞôçôçò êïõëôïýñáò ðïõ ëåéôïýñãçóå óáí ãåíåóéïõñãüò ìÞôñá. Ìéá ìÞôñá ðïõ êÜñðéóå êáé áõôü áíáãíùñßæåôáé áðü ôï óýíïëï ôùí êáôïßêùí. Íïéþèù üôé åßìáé ôõ÷åñüò ðïõ óõíåñãÜóôçêá ìáæß ôïõ óå êÜðïéá áðü ôéò äçìïóéïãñáöéêÝò áðïóôïëÝò, ëßãï ðñéí ôáîéäÝøåé ãéá ôéò “ãåéôïíéÝò ôùí áããÝëùí”. Ãéá íá ãõñßóïõìå ôþñá îáíÜ óôçí ðáëéÜ ðüëç, ìéá êáé ï êßíäõíïò ðëáôåéáóìïý åëëï÷åýåé, èá Ýðñåðå ßóùò íá ìðïýìå óôçí ëïãéêÞ ôçò áíáëõôéêÞò ðáñïõóßáóçò ôçò éóôïñßáò ðïõ êÜèå êôßñéï êñýâåé, íá ìéëÞóïõìå ãéá ôéò åêêëçóéÝò ðïõ öõôñþíïõí åäþ êáé åêåß, ôéò áôìïóöáéñéêÝò áíôéêåñß, ôéò ãêáëåñß ìå ôïõò åîðñåóéïíéóôéêïýò ðßíáêåò, ôá cafe, ôá ðïëýâïõá ìðáñÜêéá, ôá êõñéëÜôá åóôéáôüñéá, ôá ðáñáäïóéáêÜ ôáâåñíÜêéá. ÊÜèå âÞìá, ìéá ìéêñÞ áíáêÜëõøç, Ýíá ðåôÜñéóìá óå ìéá êÜðïéá Üëëç åðï÷Þ, Ýíá áìÜëãáìá õðåñâáôéóìïý êáé ðñáãìáôéêüôçôáò. Ôéò ðåñéóóüôåñåò öïñÝò óå Üíéóåò äüóåéò, åîáñôÜôáé áðü ôçí ðñïóÝããéóç. Ôïýôç ôçí ãåéôïíéÜ üìùò äåí ôçí ðåñéãñÜöåéò óå ìéá êüëëá ÷áñôß, ôïýôç ôçí ãåéôïíéÜ ìüíï íá ôçí âéþóåéò ìðïñåßò, íá ôçí áé÷-
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it, and this emotion will only get stronger as the images unfold before you and as the feeling that you are walking through the vast workshop of a neoromantic artist becomes experiential reality. Any over-the-top narations here would be futile, any verbal attempts to add further beauty would be pointless and arrogant. The old city of Xanthi certainly does not owe its presence to some model automated procedure, it is not the result of parthenogenesis. On the contrary, it is the result of a concept that was shaped by the city's course, which from the very beginning aimed at this particular result. Perhaps if we wanted to “render unto Caesar”, we would have to focus our attention on a remarkable personage of this city, the unforgettable mayor Filippos Amoiridis. He was a visionary of the local administration whose interventions towards promoting all the qualitative characteristics of this city will remain ineffaceable to eternity. Filippos Amoiridis was a pioneer, the master builder who inspired and transfused his love for this city, he was the bellwether in the shaping of an established culture that functioned as a matrix, a matrix that fructified, and this is a fact that is widely acknowledged by all inhabitants. I feel very fortunate to have collaborated with him on some of my journalistic missions, before he left us to be with the angels. Let us get back to the old city. Seeing as the risk of rambling is lurking, perhaps we should proceed to provide a detailed presentation of the history behind each building, talk about the churches popping up here and there, the antique shops that are so full of character, the galleries with the expressionist paintings, the cafés, the lively bars, classy restaurants and traditional Greek tavernas. Every step leads to a small discovery, a flashback to a different time, an amalgam of transcendence and reality, which mostly comes in uneven doses depending on the approach. However, you cannot describe this neighbourhood on a piece of paper, you can only experience it, capture it in the hard drive of your mind as a priceless possession in the puzzle of images you choose to accompany you on the long journey called life. And so I will venture an arbitrary act here. I will leave the text on the old city of Xanthi unfinished, or halffinished if you prefer, so that it can fire the imagination and colour the dream! A true challenge, and one that is open to everyone. Further south lies Abdera, a city that experiences the present with a creative attitude, while stirring up the recollections of a glorious historical
íàâñåãäà. Ôèëèïïîñ Àìèðèäèñ áûë ïèîíåðîì, âäîõíîâëåííûì è âëèâøèì ëþáîâü ê ýòîìó ãîðîäó, áûë â àâàíãàðäå â ôîðìèðîâàíèè íåîñïîðèìîé êóëüòóðû, ðàáîòàþùåé êàê ïëîäîòâîðíàÿ ìàòðèöà. Ìàòðèöà, ïðèíåñøàÿ ïëîäû. È ýòî ïðèçíàíî âñåìè æèòåëÿìè. ×óâñòâóþ ñåáÿ ñ÷àñòëèâûì, òåì, ÷òî ñîòðóäíè÷àë ñ íèì â îäíîé èç æóðíàëèñòñêèõ ìèññèé, íåçàäîëãî äî åãî êîí÷èíû. ×òîáû òåïåðü âåðíóòüñÿ ñíîâà â ñòàðûé ãîðîä, òàê êàê îïàñíîñòü ìíîãîñëîâèÿ ïîäæèäàåò, íàâåðíîå, íóæíî âîéòè â ëîãèêó àíàëèòè÷åñêîãî ïðåäñòàâëåíèÿ èñòîðèè, êîòîðóþ ïðÿ÷åò êàæäîå çäàíèå, ïîãîâîðèòü î öåðêâÿõ, ðàçáðîñàííûõ òàì è ñÿì, îá àíòèêâàðíûõ ìàãàçèíàõ, î ãàëåðåÿõ ñ êàðòèíàìè ýêñïðåññèîíèñòîâ, î êàôå, øóìíûõ áàðàõ, ôåøåíåáåëüíûõ ðåñòîðàíàõ, òðàäèöèîííûõ ìàëåíüêèõ òàâåðíàõ. Êàæäûé øàã, êàæäîå îòêðûòèå, òðåïåò êàêîé-òî äðóãîé ýïîõè, àìàëüãàìà òðàíñöåíäåíòàëèçìà è ðåàëüíîñòè.  áîëüøèíñòâå ñëó÷àåâ â íåðàâíûõ äîçàõ, â çàâèñèìîñòè îò ïîäõîäà. Îäíàêî, ýòîò ðàéîí íåâîçìîæíî îïèñàòü íà ëèñòå áóìàãè, ýòîò ðàéîí ìîæíî òîëüêî ïðîæèòü, ïëåíèòü åãî íà æåñòêîì äèñêà ñâîåãî ìîçãà, êàê áåñöåííîå ñîêðîâèùå â ïàçëå êàðòèí, âûáðàííûõ äëÿ òîãî, ÷òîáû îíè ñîïðîâîæäàëè òåáÿ â äëèííîì ïóòåøåñòâèè òâîåé æèçíè. Òàêèì îáðàçîì, ÿ äîïóùó âîëüíîñòü, îñòàâëÿÿ òåêñò î ñòàðîì ãîðîäà Êñàíòè íåîêîí÷åííûì èëè ïîëó îêîí÷åííûì, åñëè òàê ïðåäïî÷òèòåëüíåå. Ïóñòü ðàçãîðèòñÿ ôàíòàçèÿ, ïóñòü ðàñêðàñèòñÿ ìå÷òà!! Ýòî ïðåäëîæåíèå, ïðåäëîæåíèå, îòêðûòîå äëÿ âñåõ. Íåìíîãî þæíåå Àâäèðà ïåðåæèâàþò íàñòîÿùåå âðåìÿ ñ ñîçèäàòåëüíûì òàëàíòîì, ïîäíèìàÿ ðû÷àãîì âîñïîìèíàíèÿ ñëàâíîãî èñòîðè÷åñêîãî ïðîøëîãî. Íàñëåäèå, êîòîðîå, êàæåòñÿ îòïå÷àòàëîñü â ÄÍÊ êàæäîãî óðîæåíöà ýòîãî ðàéîíà. ÄÍÊ èçîáðåòàòåëüíîå, íå çàáûâàéòå, ÷òî ìû íàõîäèìñÿ íà çåìëå Äåìîêðèòà, îäíîãî èç âåëè÷àéøèõ ôèëîñîôîâ, ðîæäåííûõ íà çàìëå. Àðõåîëîãè÷åñêèé ìóçåé Àâäèðû ýòî ìàëåíüêîå ñîêðîâèùå èñòîðè÷åñêîãî ïóòè, óäèâëÿþùåãî áîãàòñòâîì ñâîèõ ýêñïîíàòîâ. Ñîâðåìåííàÿ Àâäèðà ïðåäñòàâëÿåò ñîáîé
ìáëùôßóåéò óôïí óêëçñü äßóêï ôïõ ìõáëïý óïõ, áíåêôßìçôï áðüêôçìá óôï ðáæë ôùí åéêüíùí ðïõ åðéëÝãåéò íá óõíôñïöåýïõí ôï ìáêñý ôáîßäé ôçò æùÞò óïõ. ¸ôóé èá åðé÷åéñÞóù ìéá áõèáéñåóßá áöÞíïíôáò ôï êåßìåíï ðïõ áöïñÜ ôçí ðáëéÜ ðüëç ôçò ÎÜíèçò áôåëåßùôï Þ ìéóïôåëåéùìÝíï, áí ðñïôéìáôáé. Íá åîÜðôåé ôçí öáíôáóßá, íá ÷ñùìáôßæåé ôï üíåéñï! Ìéá ðñïóêëçóç, ìéá ðñüêëçóç áíïéêôÞ ãéá ôïí êáèÝíá. Ëßãï íïôéüôåñá ôá ¢âäçñá âéþíïõí ôï ðáñüí ìå ìéá äçìéïõñãéêÞ äéÜèåóç, áíáìï÷ëåýïíôáò ôéò èýìçóåò ìéáò Ýíäïîçò éóôïñéêÞò ôáõôüôçôáò. Ìéá ðáñáêáôáèÞêç ðïõ åßíáé áðïôõðùìÝíç èáññåßò óôï DNA êáé ôïõ ôåëåõôáßïõ ãçãåíïýò êáôïßêïõ áõôÞò ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò. ¸íá DNA åõñçìáôéêü, áò ìçí ëçóìïíïýìå üôé âñéóêüìáóôå óôç ãç ôïõ Äçìüêñéôïõ, åíüò áðü ôïõò ìåãáëýôåñïõò öéëüóïöïõò ðïõ ãÝííçóå ç ðñïãïíéêÞ ãç. Ôï áñ÷áéïëïãéêü ìïõóåßï ôùí ÁâäÞñùí åßíáé Ýíáò ìéêñüò èçóáõñüò ôçò éóôïñéêÞò äéáäñïìÞò, ðïõ åíôõðùóéÜæåé ìå ôïí ðëïýôï ôùí åõñçìÜôùí ôïõ.Ôá óçìåñéíÜ ¢âäçñá åßíáé Ýíáò åîáéñåôéêÜ íïéêïêõñåìÝíïò äÞìïò ðïõ Ý÷åé óáöÝóôáôïõò ðñïóäéïñéóìïýò óôçí áíÜðôõîÞ ôïõ. Èá êëåßóù ôçí äéáäñïìÞ êÜíïíôáò ìéá ôåëåõôáßá óôÜóç óôï åêêëçóÜêé ôïõ Áãßïõ ÍéêïëÜïõ óôç Âéóôïíßäá, Üíôå êáé ìéá ðáñÜêáìøç óôï ëéìáíÜêé óôï Ðüñôï ËÜãïò. Äåí îÝñù áí ìðïñþ íá ðëïõôßóù ðïëý ðåñéóóüôåñï ôéò åéêüíåò ðïõ êïõâáëþ áðü áõôü ôï ïäïéðïñéêü. Åßíáé áðü ôéò åëÜ÷éóôåò öïñÝò ðïõ áéóèÜíïìáé ðñáãìáôéêÜ ãåìÜôïò. Ç Âéóôïíßäá üìùò, üðùò êáé ï êÜèå õãñüôïðïò, êñýâåé ìéá óåéñÜ ìõóôéêÜ ðïõ ðñÝðåé íá áíáêáëýøåéò, ãéá íá áéóèáíèåßò üôé îåêëåßäùóåò ôéò êåñêüðïñôåò ðïõ èá óå åðéôñÝøïõí íá ôïí ãíùñßóåéò. Íá ôïí ãíùñßóåéò ãéá íá êáôáíïÞóåéò ôïõò êþäéêåò ðïõ äéÝðïõí ôéò åðß ìÝñïõò æùÝò ðïõ êéíïýíôáé óôá èïëÜ íåñÜ ôçò ëéìíïèÜëáóóáò. Êáé åßíáé ðáñÜ ðïëëÝò ïé æùÝò ðïõ æïýíå óôçí Âéóôùíßäá, Ýíá ðïëõðïßêéëï ïéêïóýóôçìá. Ôï åêêëçóÜêé ôïõ Áãßïõ ÍéêïëÜïõ Ý÷åé èá Ýëåãá óçìåéïëïãéêÞ ðáñïõóßá, Ýíáò Èåúêüò ôïðïðáñáôçñçôÞò, óôçí äéáôÞñçóç ìéáò ôÜîçò ðïõ áëßìïíï äïêéìÜæåôáé êáèçìåñéíÜ áðü ôéò áíüçôåò áíèñþðéíåò áõèáéñåóßåò. ÊÜèå öïñÜ ðïõ ðåñíþ áðü åäþ íïéþèù Ýíá óõíáßóèçìá êáôÜíõîçò íá ìå êõñéåýåé, áêáôáíüçôï ãéá ìÝíá ðïõ ç åðéêïéíùíßá ìïõ ìå ôïí Äçìéïõñãü ìïõ âñßóêåôáé óå áëëÜ åðßðåäá. Áò åßíáé! ØÜ÷íù ãéá åðßëïãï. ÎÝñù ôïýôï ôï ïäïéðïñéêü åßíáé çìéôåëÝò óå Ýíá âáèìü. Èá Ýðñåðå íá ìéëÞóïõìå êáé ãéá ðïëëÜ áêüìç ðñÜãìáôá íïìßæù. Ãéá ôá Ðïìáêï÷þñéá, ãéá ôï îáêïõóìÝíï ðáæÜñé ôçò ÎÜíèçò, ãéá ôéò ãéïñôÝò ôçò ðáëéÜò ðüëçò, ôï êáñíáâÜëé, ôá “×áôæéäÜêéá”, ôéò ãáóôñïíïìéêÝò éäéáéôåñüôçôåò, ôéò ïéíéêÝò áíáæçôÞóåéò, ôï êïéíùíéêü ìüñöùìá. Ôïí ðïëéôéóìü ôçò êáèçìåñéíüôçôáò üðùò ôïí âßùóá, üðùò ôïí áíôéëÞöôçêá üëåò áõôÝò ôéò çìÝñåò. ¸íá ôÝôïéï êåßìåíï üìùò èá Þôáíå Ýíá áôåëÝóöïñï êåßìåíï, ðñïöáíþò, ìç äçìïóéåýóéìï ëüãù ôçò Ýêôáóçò ôïõ. Áò êñéèåß ëïéðüí óáí ìéá ðñïóðÜèåéá ðñïóÝããéóçò, ìéáò ðñþôçò ðñïóÝããéóçò óôïõò áêñïäÝ÷ôåò ôïýôïõ ôïõ íïìïý. ¸ôóé êáé áëëéþò óýíôïìá ôï ôáîßäé èá ìå îáíáöÝñåé ðñïò ôá åäþ. Êáé ßóùò ôüôå íá êáôïñèþóù íá ôåëåéþóù ôï ïäïéðïñéêü ìïõ.
identity. Its heritage seems to be imprinted in the DNA of even the last native of this region. This is an imaginative DNA. Let us not forget that this is the land of Democritus, one of the greatest philosophers to have been born to this ancestral land. The archaeological museum of Abdera is a small treasure presenting its historical course through an impressive and rich collection of findings. Modern-day Abdera is a well-organised municipality with clearly defined goals for its development. I will end this journey by making one last stop at the chapel of Agios Nikolaos in Vistonida, and why not a detour to the port of Porto Lagos. I am not sure I can further enrich the images I carry with me from this journey. This is one of the few times I feel truly fulfilled. Vistonida, like any wetland, hides a series of secrets that must be discovered so that you can feel like you have unlocked the posterns that will allow you to discover and get to know it in a way that will help you understand the codes that govern the individual lives that move in the murky waters of the lagoon, the many lives that live in Vistonida's diverse ecosystem. The chapel of Agios Nikolaos has a symbolic presence; it stands as a divine observer of the order that we are trying to maintain and of the order that is being tested every day by foolish human whims. Every time I pass here I am overwhelmed by a feeling of devoutness, which is bizarre in my case since my relationship with the Creator is on a whole different level. So be it!! I am searching for an epilogue. I know that this journey is half-finished to a certain degree. I think we would have to talk about many more things, about the Pomak villages, the famous Xanthi bazaar, the feasts in the old city, the carnival, the Hatzidakis festival, the culinary specialties, wine explorations, the social construct and the culture of the people's everyday lives, as I experienced and perceived it during my time here. However, such a text would be pointless and evidently unable to be published due to its extent. Let it be considered an attempt a first attempt to approach the terminals of this province. Whatever the case, the road will soon lead me back here and perhaps then I will manage to complete my journey.
ïðèâåäåííûé â èñêëþ÷èòåëüíûé ïîðÿäîê ìóíèöèïàëèòåò, èìåþùèé ÷åòêèå öåëè ñâîåãî ðàçâèòèÿ. Çàêîí÷ó ïóòåøåñòâèå, ñäåëàâ ïîñëåäíþþ îñòàíîâêó â öåðêâóøêå Ñâÿòîãî Íèêîëàÿ â Âèñòîíèäå, íó äàâàéòå ñäåëàåì è îáúåçä â ãàâàíü Ïîðòî Ëàãîñ. Íå çíàþ, ìîãó åùå áîëüøå ïîïîëíèòü êàðòèíû, êîòîðûå ñêîïèëèñü çà ýòî ïóòåøåñòâèå. Ýòî îäèí èç ðåä÷àéøèõ ñëó÷àåâ, êîãäà ÿ ÷óâñòâóþ ñåáÿ äåéñòâèòåëüíî íàñûùåííûì âïå÷àòëåíèÿìè. Âèñòîíèäà, îäíàêî, êàê è êàæäîå âîäíî-áîëîòíîå óãîäüå, ïðÿ÷åò öåëûé ðÿä òàéí, êîòîðûå òû äîëæåí îáíàðóæèòü, ïî÷óâñòâîâàòü, ÷òî îòïèðàåøü äâåðè, êîòîðûå ïîçâîëÿò òåáå åãî óçíàòü. Óçíàòü, ÷òîáû ïîíÿòü êîäåêñû, ðåãóëèðóþùèå îòäåëüíûå æèçíè, äâèæóùèåñÿ â ìóòíûõ âîäàõ ëàãóíû. È ýòèõ æèçíåé, æèâóùèõ â Âèñòîíèäå, î÷åíü ìíîãî, ýòî öåëàÿ ìíîãîîáðàçíàÿ ýêîñèñòåìà. Öåðêâóøêà Ñâÿòîãî Íèêîëàÿ èìååò, ÿ áû ñêàçàë, ñåìàíòè÷åñêîå ïðèñóòñòâèå, áîæåñòâåííîãî íàáëþäàòåëÿ çà ìåñòíîñòüþ, äëÿ ïîääåðæàíèÿ ïîðÿäêà, êîòîðûé, óâû, åæåäíåâíî èñïûòûâàåòñÿ ãëóïûì ÷åëîâå÷åñêèì ïðîèçâîëîì. Êàæäûé ðàç, ïðîõîäÿ çäåñü, ÷óâñòâóþ, ÷òî ìíîþ îâëàäåâàåò ÷óâñòâî íàáîæíîñòè, íåïîíÿòíîå ìíå, îáùåíèå êîòîðîãî ñ Ñîçäàòåëåì íàõîäèòñÿ íà äðóãîì óðîâíå. Ïóñòü áóäåò òàê!! Èùó ýïèëîã. Çíàþ, ÷òî ýòî ïóòåøåñòâèå íåñêîëüêî íåçàêîí÷åííîå. Íàäî áû, äóìàþ, ïîãîâîðèòü è î ìíîãèõ äðóãèõ âåùàõ. Î Ïîìàêîõîðüÿ, î çíàìåíèòîì áàçàðå Êñàíòè, î ïðàçäíèêàõ ñòàðîãî ãîðîäà, î êàðíàâàëå, Õàòçèäàêüÿ, ãàñòðîíîìè÷åñêèõ îñîáåííîñòÿõ, îá èçûñêàíèÿõ âèíîäåëèÿ, î ñîöèàëüíîé ôîðìàöèè. Êóëüòóðà ïîâñåäíåâíîé æèçíè, êîòîðóþ ÿ èñïûòàë è ïîíÿë çà âñå ýòè äíè. Îäíàêî òàêîé òåêñò áûë áû íåýôôåêòèâíûì, è, î÷åâèäíî íåïðèãîäíûì äëÿ ïå÷àòè èç-çà ñâîåãî ðàçìåðà. Ïóñòü ýòî áóäåò ðàñöåíåíî êàê ïîïûòêà ïðèáëèæåíèÿ, ïåðâîå ïðèáëèæåíèå ê òåðìèíàëàì ýòîãî îêðóãà. Òàê èëè èíà÷å, ñêîðî ïóòåøåñòâèå ñíîâà ïðèâåäåò ìåíÿ ñþäà. È ìîæåò áûòü, ê òîìó âðåìåíè ÿ ñìîãó çàêîí÷èòü ìîå ïóòåøåñòâèå.
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
Ôá Ýèéìá ôïõ ÐÜó÷á óôçí ÅëëÜäá Easter traditions in Greece Ïàñõàëüíûå òðàäèöèè â Ãðåöèè
Åßíáé äåäïìÝíï üôé ôï ÐÜó÷á åßíáé ìéá åîáéñåôéêÜ õðåñâáôéêÞ ãéïñôÞ ãéá ôïõò áðáíôá÷ïý åõñéóêüìåíïõò ¸ëëçíåò. ºóùò ãéáôß åßíáé ìéá ãéïñôÞ ðïõ Üññçêôá óõíäÝåôáé ìå ôçí ¢íïéîç êáé ç ¢íïéîç óôçí ÅëëÜäá óçìåéïëïãéêÜ óçìáôïäïôåß ôï îåêßíçìá ìéáò êáéíïýñãéáò ðåñéüäïõ, ìéáò ðåñéüäïõ ðïëý æùíôáíÞò, ðïëý åñùôéêÞò èá Ýëåãá, ìéáò ðåñéüäïõ ðïõ åê ðñïïéìßïõ îÝñåé íá ãåííÜ ðñïóäïêßåò êáé ïíåéñïðïëÞìáôá. Ôï ÐÜó÷á ëïéðüí ãéïñôÜæåôáé óå êÜèå ãùíéÜ ôçò ÅëëÜäáò ìå ìéá éäéáßôåñç ìïíáäéêüôçôá, ìå ìéá óåéñÜ Ýèéìá êáé ðáñáäüóåéò ìå óõíáñðáóôéêÞ ðëïêÞ, áëëÜ êáé ìå ìéá èñçóêåõôéêüôçôá áíáìöéóâÞôçôç, ðïõ åßíáé äéÜ÷õôç ðáíôïý óôçí áôìüóöáéñá. Ìéá èñçóêåõôéêüôçôá, óôá üñéá ôçò êáôÜíõîçò, ðïõ èá ôçí ÷áñáêôÞñéæá êáé åéäïðïéü äéáöïñÜ ìå êÜèå áíôßóôïé÷ï ëáôñåõôéêü Ýèéìï, óôéò õðüëïéðåò óçìáíôéêÝò ãéïñôÝò ôçò ×ñéóôéáíïóýíçò. Êïéíüò ðáñáíïìáóôÞò ôçò ëáôñåßáò ôïõ ÐÜó÷á ìéá óåéñÜ Ýèéìá, ðïõ ìå êÜðïéåò ðáñáëëáãÝò ßóùò, óõíáðáíôþíôáé ôüóï óôçí çðåéñùôéêÞ, üóï êáé ôçí íçóéùôéêÞ ÅëëÜäá. Ôï âÜøéìï êáé ôï ôóïýãêñéóìá ôùí êüêêéíùí áõãþí, ç ðåñéöïñÜ ôïõ Åðéôáößïõ ôçí ÐáñáóêåõÞ, üðùò êáé ç ìåôáöïñÜ ôïõ Áãßïõ Öùôüò áðü ôçí åêêëçóßá óôï óðßôé ìåôÜ ôçí ÁíÜóôáóç, åßíáé ôá ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêüôåñá, åêôéìþ. ÐÝñá üìùò áðü ôçí âáóéêÞ ôáõôïðïßçóç áõôþí ôùí ðáñáäïóéáêþí åèßìùí, êÜèå ðåñéï÷Þ ôçò ÅëëÜäáò, Ý÷åé åðßóçò êáé ôïí äéêü ôçò ôñüðï ðïõ ãéïñôÜæåé ôüóï ôá ÐÜèç, üóï êáé ôçí ÁíÜóôáóç ôïõ Èåáíèñþðïõ. Ìéá ðñïóÝããéóç óå êÜðïéá áð áõôÜ ôá îå÷ùñéóôÜ Ýèéìá èá åðé÷åéñÞóïõìå óå ôïýôï ôï óçìåßùìá, ìéá óôá÷õïëüãçóç èá Ýëåãá óôá óçìáíôéêüôåñá, ìéá êáé óôçí êõñéïëåîßá áõôÜ åßíáé ðáñÜ ðïëëÜ.
It is a fact that Easter is one of the most celebrated holidays for all Greeks, near and far. Perhaps it is because it is closely linked to spring and springtime in Greece signifies the start of a new season, a lively season which is full of love, a season that stirs our hopes and dreams. Easter is uniquely celebrated in every part of Greece through a series of customs and traditions, each with their own amazing plot and with a strong sense of religiosity filling the air, a religiosity that borders on reverence, which sets it apart from any similar devotional custom in honour of Christianity's other important celebrations. The common denominator of these Easter celebrations is a series of customs which perhaps with a few variations can be found both on mainland Greece and on the islands. The most typical of these customs is the egg dyeing and cracking of red eggs, the Epitaph procession on Good Friday and the welcoming of the Holy Fire in each home after the Resurrection service. However, apart from these established traditional customs, each area in Greece has its own way of celebrating the Passions and Resurrection of Christ. We will attempt to present some of these special customs in this piece by preparing a small compilation of the most important, seeing as there are literally so many.
Ãäå áû íå íàõîäèëèñü ãðåêè, ïðàçäíèê Ïàñõè ÿâëÿåòñÿ äëÿ íèõ èñêëþ÷èòåëüíî òðàíñöåíäåíòàëüíûì ïðàçäíèêîì. Âîçìîæíî, ýòî ïðîèñõîäèò îòòîãî, ÷òî ýòîò ïðàçäíèê íåðàçðûâíî ñâÿçàí ñ âåñíîé, à Âåñíà â Ãðåöèè çíàìåíóåò íà÷àëî íîâîãî ïåðèîäà, ïåðèîäà ÷ðåçâû÷àéíî ÿðêîãî, î÷åíü ýðîòè÷íîãî, ÿ áû ñêàçàë, ïåðèîäà, êîòîðûé èçíà÷àëüíî ìîæåò ðîæäàòü íîâûå íàäåæäû è ìå÷òû. Ïðàçäíèê Ïàñõè ïðàçäíóåòñÿ â êàæäîì óãîëêå Ãðåöèè ñ åäèíñòâåííûì â ñâî¸ì ðîäå ñâîåîáðàçèåì, ñ öåëûì ðÿäîì êîëîðèòíûõ òðàäèöèé è îáû÷àåâ, êîòîðûå îòëè÷àþòñÿ çàõâàòûâàþùèì ñþæåòîì, íî îäíîâðåìåííî ñ áåññïîðíîé ðåëèãèîçíîñòüþ, êîòîðàÿ ïðîñòî âñþäó âèòàåò â âîçäóõå. Ýòî ðåëèãèîçíîñòü íà ãðàíè áëàãî÷åñòèÿ, êîòîðîå ÿ áû õîòåë îõàðàêòåðèçîâàòü è ñïåöèôè÷åñêè âûäåëèòü, ñ êàæäûì ñîîòâåòñòâóþùèì êóëüòîâûì îáû÷àåì ñðåäè äðóãèõ çíà÷èìûõ ïðàçäíèêîâ õðèñòèàíñòâà. Êàê íà ìàòåðèêîâîé, òàê è íà îñòðîâíîé ÷àñòè Ãðåöèè âñòðå÷àåòñÿ öåëûé ðÿä îáû÷àåâ ïðàçäíîâàíèÿ ïðàçäíèêà Ïàñõè ñ îòëè÷èòåëüíûìè îáùèìè ÷åðòàìè. Êðàøåíèå è «õðèñòîñîâàíèå» êðàñíûìè ÿéöàìè, âûíîñ ñâÿòîé Ïëàùàíèöû â Ñòðàñòíóþ Ïÿòíèöó, êàê è ïåðåíîñ Ñâÿòîãî Ïàñõàëüíîãî Îãíÿ èç öåðêîâíîãî õðàìà äîìîé ïîñëå Âîñêðåñåíèÿ Õðèñòîâà âîò ñàìûå õàðàêòåðíûå òðàäèöèè Ïàñõè. Íî êðîìå îñíîâíûõ îáùèõ íàðîäíûõ îáû÷àåâ, êàæäàÿ îáëàñòü Ãðåöèè îòëè÷àåòñÿ ñâîèìè ìåñòíûìè òðàäèöèÿìè ïðàçäíîâàíèÿ êàê ñàìèõ Ñòðàñòåé Ãîñïîäíèõ, òàê è Âîñêðåñåíèÿ Áîãî÷åëîâåêà.  äàííîé ñòàòüå õîòåëîñü áû îñòàíîâèòüñÿ íà íåêîòîðûõ èç ýòèõ ñâîåîáðàçíûõ òðàäèöèé, ñêàæåì, òùàòåëüíî îòîáðàòü ñàìûå ãëàâíûå, òàê êàê èõ, â áóêâàëüíîì ñìûñëå, î÷åíü ìíîãî.
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
Áöåôçñßá ôïõ ïäïéðïñéêïý ç ÌåóóçíéáêÞ ðñùôåýïõóá, ç ÊáëáìÜôá. Åäþ áíáâéþíåé Ýíá ðïëý îå÷ùñéóôü Ýèéìï, ðïõ Ý÷åé ôéò ñßæåò ôïõ óôá ÷ñüíéá ôçò Ôïõñêïêñáôßáò êáé óôïõò áãþíåò ôùí íôüðéùí ãéá ôçí áðåëåõèÝñùóç ôïõò ôï 1821.Ôï Ýèéìï ôïõ «óáéôïðüëåìïõ». Óýìöùíá ìå ôï èñýëï, ïé ÌåóóÞíéïé, ÷ñçóéìïðïßçóáí «óáÀôåò»(åðéìÞêåéò óùëÞíåò) ãåìÜôåò åêñçêôéêÜ ãéá íá áíá÷áéôßóïõí óå êÜðïéá ìÜ÷ç, ôï éððéêü ôùí Ôïýñêùí, ôñïìÜæïíôáò ôá Üëïãá ôïõò ìå ôï ðáíäáéìüíéï ðïõ äçìéïõñãåßôï áðü ôï áõôïó÷Ýäéï üðëï, áðïäåéêíýïíôáò ðñïöáíþò ãéá Üëëç ìéá öïñÜ üôé ç íßêç óå ìéá ìÜ÷ç äåí áðïêôéÝôáé ìüíï ìÝóá áðü ôçí áñéèìçôéêÞ õðåñï÷Þ. Óçìáíôéêü ñüëï ðáßæåé åðßóçò ç åõöõÀá êáé ç óôñáôçãéêÞ. Óôçí áíáâßùóç ôïõ åèßìïõ ôþñá, ïé äéáãùíéæüìåíïé, ìðïõëïýêéá Þ êáôÜ ìüíáò, ìå ðáñáäïóéáêÝò åíäõìáóßåò êáé ïðëéóìÝíïé ìå óáÀôåò, ìå ÷áñôïíÝíéïõò óùëÞíåò äçëáäÞ ãåìÜôïõò ìðáñïýôé, åðéäßäïíôáé óå óáúôïðüëåìï, óôï ãÞðåäï ôïõ Ìåóóçíéáêïý ôá ôåëåõôáßá ÷ñüíéá, ìå ôç óõììåôï÷Þ ðëÞèïõò èåáôþí íá áðïëáìâÜíåé ôï åíôõðùóéáêü èÝáìá. Ðïõ óôçí êõñéïëåîßá «ìõñßæåé ìðáñïýôé»… Óôï Ëåùíßäéï, ôï åðßíåéï ôçò ÁñêáäéêÞò ãçò, ôï âñÜäõ ôçò ÁíÜóôáóçò ï ïõñáíüò ãåìßæåé ìå äåêÜäåò öùôåéíÜ áåñüóôáôá, ôá ïðïßá áíõøþíïíôáé áðü ôïõò êáôïßêïõò ôçò êÜèå åíïñßáò. Ôá áåñüóôáôá îåêßíçóáí íá êáôáóêåõÜæïíôáé åäþ, ðåñßðïõ óôá ôÝëç ôïõ 19ïõ áéþíá êáé ïé íôüðéïé óõíå÷ßæïõí íá ôá öôéÜ÷íïõí ìÝ÷ñé óÞìåñá.
128 betterfly magazine
We will start this journey in Kalamata, the capital of Messenia. A very special custom that goes back to the time of the Turkish occupation and the struggles of the locals for freedom in 1821 is revived here every year. This is the war of arrows (saitopolemos). Legend has it that the Messenians used saites (long tubes) filled with explosives so that they could hold the Turkish cavalry in check during battle by frightening their horses with the pandemonium caused by these improvised weapons, proving once again that winning a battle does not only depend on the advantage of numbers. Intelligence and strategy play an equally important role. In recent years the revival of the custom involves participants, in groups or on their own, wearing traditional costumes and armed with saites, that is, cardboard tubes filled with gunpowder, fighting a war of arrows (saitopolemos) in the Messiniakos Stadium, with hoards of spectators enjoying the grand show amidst a cloud of gunpowder. On the evening of the Resurrection in Leonidio, the haven of Arcadia, the sky fills up with dozens of bright air balloons that are released by the citizens of each parish. They started making air balloons here in the late 19th century and the locals continue to make them today in order to keep this custom alive, while clearly being aware of its powerful allure over tourists from Greece and abroad seeing as this truly is a marvellous spectacle. This custom goes back to Leonidian seafarers who travelled the world and were so impressed by a similar tradition in several Asian countries that they introduced this tradition when they returned home. Here is a colourful description of the custom taken from a local publication. “Approximately five hundred air balloons are made every Easter in the village by the five parishes. Of course, some of these do not manage to light up, which sparks off some banter from the other parishioners. The same applies if an air balloon catches fire in the air, because this means that its construction leaves much to be desired”...
Îòïðàâíîé òî÷êîé ïîâåñòâîâàíèÿ ÿâëÿåòñÿ ñòîëèöà Ìåññèíèè ãîðîä Êàëàìàòà. Çäåñü âîçðîæäàåòñÿ ñîâåðøåííî îñîáûé îáû÷àé, óõîäÿùèé êîðíÿìè â ýïîõó òóðåöêîãî èãà è áîðüáû ìåñòíîãî íàñåëåíèÿ çà îñâîáîæäåíèå â 1821ã. Ýòî îáû÷àé «âîéíû ñàìîë¸òèêîâ». Ñîãëàñíî ïðåäàíèþ ìåññèíèéöû èñïîëüçîâàëè òàê íàçûâàåìûå «ñàìîë¸òèêè» (ïèêè), íàïîëíåííûå âçðûâ÷àòûì âåùåñòâîì, ÷òîáû ââåñòè â çàìåøàòåëüñòâî êîííèöó òóðîê. Áëàãîäàðÿ ñàìîäåëüíîìó îðóæèþ êîíè ïóãàëèñü, è íà÷èíàëàñü íàñòîÿùàÿ ñâèñòîïëÿñêà, ÷òî â î÷åðåäíîé ðàç äîêàçûâàëî: ïîáåäà â ëþáîì áîþ äîñòèãàåòñÿ íå òîëüêî áëàãîäàðÿ ÷èñëåííîìó ïðåâîñõîäñòâó. Âàæíóþ ðîëü èãðàåò òàêòèêà è ñòðàòåãèÿ. Ñåãîäíÿ ïðè âîçðîæäåíèè äàííîãî îáû÷àÿ ñîðåâíóþùèåñÿ, ãðóïïàìè èëè ïîîäèíî÷êå, îäåòûå â íàöèîíàëüíûå êîñòþìû è âîîðóæ¸ííûå «ñàìîë¸òèêàìè», à èìåííî êîïüÿìè èç êàðòîíà, íàïîëíåííûìè ïîðîõîì, íà÷èíàþò «âîéíó» íà ìåññèíèéñêîì ñòàäèîíå. Ïîñëåäíèå ãîäû ýòî çðåëèùå ïðèâëåêàåò ìàññó çðèòåëåé, êîòîðûå ñ áîëüøèì óäîâîëüñòâèåì íàáëþäàþò çà ïðîèñõîäÿùèì çàõâàòûâàþùèì ñïåêòàêëåì, ãäå äåéñòâèòåëüíî «äåëî ïàõíåò ïîðîõîì»…
Áíôéëáìâáíüìåíïé ðñïöáíþò, ðÝñá áðü ôçí áõôÞ êáè áõôÞ áíáâßùóç ôïõ åèßìïõ, ôçí äõíáìéêÞ ôïõ óôçí ðñïóÝëêõóç ôïõñéóôþí áðü ôçí ÅëëÜäá êáé ôï åîùôåñéêü, ìéá êáé ðñáãìáôéêÜ ôï èÝáìá åßíáé åíôõðùóéáêüôáôï. Ôï Ýèéìï ôþñá, Ý÷åé ôçí ðñïÝëåõóÞ ôïõ óôïõò Ëåùíéäéþôåò íáõôéêïýò ðïõ ãõñßæïíôáò ôïí êüóìï, åíôõðùóéÜóôçêáí áðü ôï áíôßóôïé÷ï Ýèéìï óå áñêåôÝò áóéáôéêÝò ÷þñåò êáé óôç óõíÝ÷åéá ôï ìåôÝöåñáí óôçí ðáôñßäá ôïõò. ÁíôéãñÜöù ìéá ãëáöõñÞ ðåñéãñáöÞ ôïõ åèßìïõ áðü êÜðïéï ôïðéêü Ýíôõðï ó÷åôéêÜ ìå ôçí äéáäéêáóßá… «Ðåíôáêüóéá ðåñßðïõ áåñüóôáôá êáôáóêåõÜæïíôáé êÜèå ÐÜó÷á óôï ÷ùñéü áðü ôéò ðÝíôå åíïñßåò. ÂÝâáéá, êÜðïéá áðü áõôÜ äåí êáôáöÝñíïõí íá áíÜøïõí êáé ôüôå áêïëïõèïýí ðåéñÜãìáôá áðü ôïõò Üëëïõò åíïñßôåò. Ôï ßäéï ãßíåôáé êáé áí êÜðïéï áåñüóôáôï ðÜñåé öùôéÜ êáé êáåß óôïí áÝñá, ãéáôß áõôü óçìáßíåé üôé ç êáôáóêåõÞ ôïõ äåí Þôáí êáé ôüóï ðåôõ÷çìÝíç»… Óôç ìõñïâüëï ×ßï ï åðüìåíïò óôáèìüò ìáò, ãéá ôï ðáóßãíùóôï ðéá Ýèéìï ôïõ ñïõêåôïðüëåìïõ. Ç ðñïÝëåõóç ôïõ åèßìïõ äåí åßíáé óáöÞò, áëëÜ ïé ðåñéóóüôåñåò èåùñßåò óõãêëßíïõí üôé ôï Ýèéìï îåêßíçóå ôçí åðï÷Þ ôçò Ôïõñêïêñáôßáò. Óýìöùíá ìå ôçí ðáñÜäïóç ëïéðüí, áñ÷éêÜ ãéá ôïí åïñôáóìü ôïõ ÐÜó÷á, ôçò ÁíÜóôáóçò, ÷ñçóéìïðïéïýíôáí áðü ôïõò êáôïßêïõò ðáëéÜ êáíüíéá ðïõ ðáñÞãáãáí äõíáôïýò êñüôïõò. ¼ôáí ïé Ôïýñêïé áðáãüñåøáí ôá êáíüíéá, õðü ôï öüâï üôé èá ìðïñïýóáí õðü ðñïûðïèÝóåéò íá ÷ñçóéìïðïéçèïýí åíáíôßïí ôïõò, ïé êÜôïéêïé ôá áíôéêáôÝóôçóáí ìå áõôïó÷Ýäéåò ñïõêÝôåò. Ôï Ýèéìï ôçñåßôáé êÜèå ÷ñüíï óôçí ÂñïíôÜäï, ìéá ðåñéï÷Þ ðïëý êïíôÜ óôçí ðñùôåýïõóá ôïõ íçóéïý ôçí ×þñá êáé åßíáé åíôõðùóéáêü. Óôçí ïõóßá ðñüêåéôáé ãéá áíáðáñÜóôáóç ðïëÝìïõ äýï áíôéðÜëùí åíïñéþí, ôïõ Áãßïõ ÌÜñêïõ êáé ôçò Ðáíáãßáò ôçò ÅñåéèéáíÞò. Ïé äýï "áíôßðáëåò" åíïñßåò, åêôïîåýïõí ôï âñÜäõ ôïõ ÌåãÜëïõ ÓáââÜôïõ ÷éëéÜäåò áõôïó÷Ýäéåò ñïõêÝôåò ìå óôü÷ï ôï êáìðáíáñéü ôçò áíôßðáëçò åêêëçóßáò, äçìéïõñãþíôáò Ýíá ìïíáäéêü èÝáìá. Ïé äýï áíôéìÝôùðåò åêêëçóßåò âñßóêïíôáé ÷ôéóìÝíåò ðåñßðïõ 400 ìÝôñá ç ìßá áðü ôçí Üëëç, óå äýï áíôéêñéóôïýò ëüöïõò. Ôï åðüìåíï ðñùß ãßíåôáé êáôáìÝôñçóç ôùí ñïõêåôþí ðïõ âñÞêáí óôü÷ï óå êÜèå êáìðáíáñéü ãéá íá áíáäåé÷èåß ï íéêçôÞò. ÖõóéêÜ, êÜèå åíïñßá äçëþíåé íéêÞôñéá, ïðüôå ôï ñáíôåâïý ãéá Ýíáí íÝï ñïõêåôïðüëåìï áíáíåþíåôáé ãéá ôçí åðüìåíç ÷ñïíéÜ. Ëßãåò ìÝñåò ðñéí, ôá êôßñéá ôùí äýï åêêëçóéþí, áëëÜ êáé ôùí ãåéôïíéêþí óðéôéþí êáëýðôïíôáé ìå ìå-
Our next stop is the sweet-smelling island of Chios, which is known for its rocket-war custom. The origin of this custom is not clear, but most theories agree that the custom started at the time of the Turkish occupation. According to the tradition, the inhabitants initially used old canons that made loud noises to celebrate Easter and the Resurrection. When the Turks banned the canons from fear that they could be used against them, the locals replaced them with improvised rockets. The custom is followed every year in Vrontado, an area very near the island's capital, Chora, and it truly is a remarkable spectacle. It is in fact the enactment of a war between two parishes, Agios Markos and Panagia Erithiani. On the evening of Holy Saturday the two 'rival' parishes fire thousands of improvised rockets at the bell tower of the rival church, thus creating a unique spectacle. The two opposing churches are built 400 metres apart on two opposite hills. The next morning they count the rockets that hit the mark in each bell tower and then announce the winner. Of course, each parish declares itself the winner, thus calling for a rematch in the following year. A few days before the rocket war, the two church buildings and neighbouring houses get covered in a protective metal mesh. The best spot from which to observe the custom for those who know it well is the slope of Mount Aipos, northwest of Vrontado. From the east we will now go west-ward, from the Aegean to the Ionian Sea and make a stop on the island of the Phaeacians,
 ãîðîäå Ëåîíèäèî, ÿâëÿþùåìñÿ ìîðñêèì ïîðòîì îáëàñòè Àðêàäèÿ, íî÷íîå íåáî Ñâÿòîãî Âîñêðåñåíèÿ Õðèñòîâà íàïîëíÿåòñÿ äåñÿòêàìè ÿðêèõ âîçäóøíûõ øàðîâ, êîòîðûå çàïóñêàþòñÿ æèòåëÿìè êàæäîãî ïðèõîäà. Çäåñü íà÷àëè äåëàòü âîçäóøíûå øàðû ïðèìåðíî ñ êîíöà .ÕÕ-ãî âåêà, à ìåñòíîå íàñåëåíèå ïðîäîëæàåò ýòó òðàäèöèþ ïî ñåãîäíÿøíèé äåíü, ïîñêîëüêó ýòî çðåëèùå ïðèâëåêàåò ìíîãèõ òóðèñòîâ, êàê èç Ãðåöèè, òàê è ñî âñåõ óãîëêîâ ìèðà. Ýòîò îáû÷àé èñõîäèò îò ìåñòíûõ ìîðÿêîâ, êîòîðûå, ñòðàíñòâóÿ ïî ñâåòó, íàáëþäàëè è áûëè î÷àðîâàíû ïîäîáíûì îáû÷àåì âî ìíîãèõ àçèàòñêèõ ñòðàíàõ, à çàòåì ïåðåíåñëè åãî íà ðîäèíó. Õîòåëîñü áû ïðîöèòèðîâàòü ÿðêîå îïèñàíèå òðàäèöèè èç îäíîãî ìåñòíîãî ïå÷àòíîãî èçäàíèÿ: «Åæåãîäíî â ïðàçäíèê Ïàñõè îêîëî ïÿòèñîò âîçäóøíûõ øàðîâ èçãîòàâëèâàþòñÿ æèòåëÿìè ïÿòè öåðêîâíûõ ïðèõîäîâ. Åñòåñòâåííî, íåêîòîðûå èç íèõ íå çàæèãàþòñÿ, è òîãäà îñòàëüíûå ìàñòåðà íà÷èíàþò ïîääðàçíèâàòü íåóäà÷íîãî êîíñòðóêòîðà. Òî æå ñàìîå ïðîèñõîäèò è â ñëó÷àå, åñëè êàêîé-ëèáî èç âîçäóøíûõ øàðîâ çàãîðèòñÿ ïîëíîñòüþ â âîçäóõå, à ýòî îçíà÷àåò, ÷òî êîíñòðóêöèÿ áûëà ñäåëàíà íåêà÷åñòâåííî»… Ñëåäóþùèì ïóíêòîì ÿâëÿåòñÿ ïðåêðàñíûé îñòðîâ Õèîñ, ïðîñëàâèâøèéñÿ âñåì èçâåñòíîé «ðàêåòíîé âîéíîé». Ïðîèñõîæäåíèå ýòîãî îáðÿäà íåèçâåñòíî, íî áîëüøèíñòâî òåîðèé ñõîäèòñÿ íà òîì, ÷òî îí áåð¸ò íà÷àëî ñî âðåì¸í òóðåöêîãî çàâîåâàíèÿ. Ñîãëàñíî ïðåäàíèþ, èçíà÷àëüíî, äëÿ ïðàçäíîâàíèÿ ïðàçäíèêà Ïàñõè, Âîñêðåñåíèÿ Õðèñòîâà ìåñòíûå æèòåëè èñïîëüçîâàëè ñòàðûå ïóøå÷íûå îðóäèÿ, êîòîðûå ïðîèçâîäèëè ãðîìêèå âûñòðåëû. Êîãäà òóðêè çàïðåòèëè ïóøå÷íûå âûñòðåëû, áîÿñü, ÷òî îðóäèÿ ìîãóò ïðèìåíèòü ïðîòèâ íèõ, ìåñòíûå æèòåëè çàìåíèëè ïóøå÷íûå âûñòðåëû ñàìîäåëüíûìè ðàêåòàìè. Åæåãîäíî ýòîò îáû÷àé ñîáëþäàåòñÿ â ìåñòå÷êå Âðîíòàäî, ðàñïîëîæåííîì ïîáëèçîñòè îò ñòîëèöû îñòðîâà, è ïðîèçâîäèò íà çðèòåëåé íåèçãëàäèìîå âïå÷àòëåíèå.  ñóùíîñòè, ýòî ïðîñòî íàñòîÿùåå âîñïðîèçâåäåíèå âîåííûõ äåéñòâèé äâóõ ïðîòèâîïîëîæíûõ ïðèõîäîâ: Ñâÿòîãî Ìàðêà è Áîãîðîäèöû Ýðèôèàíñêîé Âå÷åðîì Ñòðàñòíîé Ñóááîòû äâà «ïðîòèâíèêà» çàïóñêàþò òûñÿ÷è ñàìîäåëüíûõ ðàêåò, íàöåëèâàÿñü íà êîëîêîëüíþ öåðêâè âðàãà, ÷òî ïðåäñòàâëÿåò ñîáîé ÿðêîå çðåëèùå. Äâà «âðàæåñêèõ» õðàìà ðàñïîëîæåíû íà ðàññòîÿíèè îêîëî 400 ì. îäèí îò äðóãîãî íà ïðîòèâîïîëîæíûõ ãîðíûõ âîçâûøåííîñòÿõ. Íà ñëåäóþùåå óòðî ïðîèçâîäèòñÿ ïîäñ÷¸ò ðàêåò, äîñòèãøèõ öåëè, ÷òîáû îïðåäåëèòü ïîáåäèòåëÿ. Åñòåñòâåííî, êàæäûé ïðèõîä çàÿâëÿåò ñåáÿ ïîáåäèòåëåì, à ñëåäîâàòåëüíî, íîâàÿ «ðàêåòíàÿ âîéíà» ïåðåíîñèòñÿ íà
ôáëëéêü ðëÝãìá ðñïóôáóßáò. Åîáéñåôéêü ðáñáôçñçôÞñéï ôïõ åèßìïõ ãéá ôïõò ìõçìÝíïõò åßíáé ç ðëáãéÜ ôïõ üñïõò Áßðïò óôá âïñåéïäõôéêÜ ôïõ ÂñïíôÜäï. Áðü áíáôïëéêÜ ìåôáöåñüìáóôå äõôéêÜ, áðü ôï Áéãáßï óôï Éüíéï ðÝëáãïò, óôáèìüò åäþ ôï íçóß ôùí ÖáéÜêùí, ç ÷éëéïôñáãïõäéóìÝíç ÊÝñêõñá. Óôçí ÊÝñêõñá ëïéðüí ïé «ìðüôéäåò» åìöáíßæïíôáé... ðåñßðïõ ïõñáíïêáôÝâáôïé. Ãýñù óôéò 11 ôï ðñùß ôïõ Ì. ÓáââÜôïõ ìåôÜ ôï ðÝñáò ôçò ðñþôçò ÁíáóôÜóéìçò áêïëïõèßáò óôç Ìçôñüðïëç ôïõ íçóéïý êáé áöïý ôåëåéþóåé êáé ç ðåñéöïñÜ ôïõ åðéôáößïõ ôïõ Áãßïõ Óðõñßäùíá, (ôï 1574 ïé ÂåíåôóéÜíïé áðáãüñåõóáí óôïõò ïñèïäüîïõò ôçí ðåñéöïñÜ ôïõ åðéôáößïõ ôçí Ì. ÐáñáóêåõÞ
Corfu, about which many a song has been sung. In Corfu the botides (clay pots) fall from the sky... so to speak. At around 11 in the morning on Holy Saturday, after the first resurrection service in the island's Cathedral and after the Epitaph procession of the church of Agios Spyridonas (in 1574 the Venetians prohibited the Orthodox from holding a procession of the Epitaph on Good Friday and the people of Corfu have since held the procession of the Epitaph together with the procession of the relic of the island's Patron Saint on Holy Saturday), the bells of all churches ring simultaneously and thousands of clay pots of all sizes filled with water and known as botides fall from the house windows in the narrow alleys with a clangour, causing chaos all over. Of course, this only lasts for a few minutes.
ñëåäóþùèé ãîä. Çà íåñêîëüêî äíåé äî ýòîãî ñîáûòèÿ çäàíèÿ öåðêâåé è ñîñåäíèõ äîìîâ è ïîñòðîåê ïîêðûâàþòñÿ ìåòàëëè÷åñêîé çàùèòíîé ñåòêîé. Îòëè÷íûì íàáëþäàòåëüíûì ïóíêòîì äëÿ çðèòåëåé ÿâëÿåòñÿ ñêëîí ãîðû Ýïîñ ê ñåâåðî-çàïàäó îò ïîñ. Âðîíòàäî. Ïóòåøåñòâèå ïðîäîëæàåòñÿ ñ âîñòîêà íà çàïàä. Ïóòü ëåæèò ÷åðåç Ýãåéñêîå ìîðå ê Èîíè÷åñêîìó ìîðþ, íà îñòðîâ Ôåàêîâ íà âîñïåòûé è ïðîñëàâëåííûé ïîýòàìè Êîðôó. Íà Êîðôó «ñàïîæèùè» ïîÿâëÿþòñÿ… ñëîâíî ñîøåäøèìè ñ íåáåñ. Îêîëî 11:00 óòðà Ñòðàñòíîé Ñóááîòû ïî îêîí÷àíèè ïåðâîé çàóòðåííåé ñëóæáû â Ìèòðîïîëèè îñòðîâà è âûíîñà Ñâÿùåííîé Ïëàùàíèöû Ñâÿòîãî Ñïèðèäîíà (â 1574 ã. âåíåöèàíöû çàïðåòèëè ïðàâîñëàâíûì õðèñòèàíàì ñîâåðøàòü âûíîñ Ñâÿùåííîé Ïëàùàíèöû â Ñòðàñòíóþ Ïÿòíèöó, è ñ òåõ ïîð æèòåëè îñòðîâà ñîâåðøàþò ýòîò îáðÿä âìåñòå ñ ïî÷òåííûìè ì î ù à ì è Ñ â ÿ ò î ã î ïîêðîâèòåëÿ îñòðîâà â Ñòðàñòíóþ Ñóááîòó) áüþò
êáé áðü ôüôå ïé Êåñêõñáßïé ðñáãìáôïðïéïýí ôçí ðåñéöïñÜ ìáæß ìå ôï óåðôü óêÞíùìá ôïõ ðïëéïý÷ïõ Áãßïõ. Ì. ÓÜââáôï), ôüôå ëïéðüí, ÷ôõðïýí ïé êáìðÜíåò üëùí ôùí åêêëçóéþí ìáæß êáé áðü ôá ðáñÜèõñá ôùí óðéôéþí óôá óôåíÜ óïêÜêéá, ðÝöôïõí êáôÜ ÷éëéÜäåò, ðÞëéíá äï÷åßá êÜèå äéáìåôñÞìáôïò, ãåìÜôá íåñü, ïé ëåãüìåíïé «ìðüôéäåò», ðÝöôïõí ìå ìåãÜëï, äáéìïíéþäç êñüôï, äçìéïõñãüíôáò ìéá óôçí êõñéïëåîßá ÷áïôéêÞ êáôÜóôáóç. Ðïõ äéáñêåß âÝâáéá ëßãá ìüíïí ëåðôÜ. ¸íá Ýèéìï ðïõ éóôïñéêÜ Ý÷åé ôéò ñßæåò ôïõ óôï ÅõáããÝëéï. Óå Ýíá åîáßóéï ôñïðÜñéï ôçò Ì. ÐÝìðôçò ï âõæáíôéíüò ñáøùäüò óõíÝèåóå Ýíá ðïëý éäéáßôåñï åäÜöéï, óáí ðáñÜðïíï ôïõ ÅóôáõñùìÝíïõ ðëÝïí Éçóïý: «ÅîÝäõóáí ìå ôá éìÜôéá ìïõ êáé åíÝäõóáí ìå ÷ëáìýäáí êïêêßíçí...». Óôï ôÝëïò áõôïý ôïõ ôñïðáñßïõ åêöñÜæåôáé ç èñéáìâåõôéêÞ êñáõãÞ ôïõ Éçóïý êáé ìéá ìïñöÞ «åêäßêçóçò» ðñïò ôïõò Åâñáßïõò äéþêôåò ôïõ: «Óõ äå Êýñéå ÁíÜóôçóüí ìå ßíá óõíôñßøù áõôïýò ùò óêåýç êåñáìÝùò». Éäéáßôåñá åíôõðùóéáêÞ åðßóçò ç ÁíÜóôáóç óôçí ÊÝñêõñá, ôï âñÜäõ ôïõ Ì. ÓáââÜôïõ óôçí ìåãÜëç ðëáôåßá Ëéóôüí, óõíáðáíôþíôáé üëåò ïé åêêëçóßåò ôçò ðüëçò, ðåñéóóüôåñåò áðü 40 êáé êÜíïõí êïéíÞ ÁíÜóôáóç õðü ôïõò Þ÷ïõò ôçò ÖéëáñìïíéêÞò ìå ÷éëéÜäåò êüóìïõ íá óõììåôÝ÷åé. Óõíå÷ßæïõìå áõôü ôï ôáîßäé ìáò óôá Ýèéìá êáé ôéò ðáñáäüóåéò ôïõ ÐÜó÷á åðéëÝãïíôáò íá ìåßíïõìå óôç íçóéùôéêÞ ÅëëÜäá êáé óõãêåêñéìÝíá óôéò ÊõêëÜäåò êáé ôá ÄùäåêÜíçóá. Îåêéíþíôáò áíôßóôñïöá, áðü ôá ÄùäåêÜíçóá äçëáäÞ, åðéâÜëëåôáé ó÷åäüí íá êÜíïõìå óôÜóç óôï éåñü íçóß ôçò ÁðïêÜëõøçò ôçí ÐÜôìï. Åäþ ç ìõóôáãùãßá åßíáé êÜôé ðåñéóóüôåñï áðü äåäïìÝíç üëç ôçí Ì. ÅâäïìÜäá. Åðßêåíôñï ôùí ôåëåôþí êáé ôùí áêïëïõèéþí åäþ áðïôåëåß ôï Ýèéìï ôïõ «ÍéðôÞñá». Ôçí Ì. ÐÝìðôç ãßíåôáé áíáðáñÜóôáóç ôïõ «Ìõóôéêïý Äåßðíïõ» ôïõ ÍéðôÞñá óå êåíôñéêÞ ðëáôåßá ôçò ×þñáò, üðïõ ï Çãïýìåíïò ðëÝíåé ôá ðüäéá 12 ìïíá÷þí, üðùò Ýêáíå êáé ï Éçóïýò ìå ôïõò ìáèçôÝò ôïõ. Ôçí ÊõñéáêÞ ôïõ ÐÜó÷á, óôï ÌïíáóôÞñé ôçò ÐÜôìïõ ãßíåôáé ç äåýôåñç ÁíÜóôáóç êáôÜ ôçí ïðïßá ôï ÁíáóôÜóéìï ÅõáããÝëéï ìðïñïýìå íá ôï áêïýóïõìå óå åðôÜ ãëþóóåò (éôáëéêÜ, ñþóéêá, ãáëëéêÜ, áããëéêÜ, ãåñìáíéêÜ, óÝñâéêá êáé áñ÷áßá ïìçñéêÜ åëëçíéêÜ) .Ç ðáãêïóìéïðïßçóç åäþ, âñßóêåé ßóùò ôçí áõèåíôéêüôåñç ìïñöÞ ôçò, ðñáãìáôþíåôáé óå ìéá Ýííïéá ðïõ äõóôõ÷þò ðïëý áðÝ÷åé
Historically, this custom has its roots in the Gospel. In a magnificent motet sung on Maundy Thursday, the Byzantine rhapsodist wrote a very special verse expressing the grievance of Christ who had already been crucified: “They stripped me of my clothes and dressed me in a scarlet robe...” This motet ends with the triumphant cry of Jesus Christ expressing a form of 'revenge' towards his Jewish persecutors: “Resurrect me Lord so that I may crush them like clay pots”. The celebration of the Resurrection on the island of Corfu is just as impressive. On the evening of Holy Saturday all of the town's churches, which are more than 40 in number, gather in the great Liston Square and have a joint Resurrection service to the sounds of the Philharmonic Orchestra and the thousands of people gathered there. Let us continue our tour of the Easter customs and traditions on the islands of Greece, and in particular on the Cyclades and Dodecanese islands. Starting from the Dodecanese, the island of the Apocalypse, Patmos, is a must. Mystagogy is something more than a given here throughout the Holy Week. The centre of all rituals and services here is the custom of the Niptira (basin). An enactment of the Last Supper and the Basin is held on Maundy Thursday in the central square of the capital, where the abbot washes the feet of 12 monks, as did Christ with his disciples. The second Resurrection service is held on Easter Sunday at the Monastery of Patmos, during which the Gospel on
êîëîêîëà âñåõ öåðêîâíûõ õðàìîâ îäíîâðåìåííî, à èç îêîí äîìîâ íà óçêèõ óëî÷êàõ îñòðîâà âûáðàñûâàþò òûñÿ÷è ãëèíÿíûõ ñîñóäîâ ðàçíûõ ðàçìåðîâ, íàïîëíåííûõ âîäîé, òàê íàçûâàåìûõ «ñàïîæèù». Îíè ïàäàþò ñ ñ è ë ü í û ì , ï ð î ñ ò î äåìîíè÷åñêèì çâóêîì, íàâîäÿ íàñòîÿùèé õàîñ, êîòîðûé äëèòñÿ, ðàçóìååòñÿ, âñåãî íåñêîëüêî ìèíóò. Ýòà òðàäèöèè èìååò ñâîè èñòîðè÷åñêèå êîðíè â Åâàíãåëèè.  çàìå÷àòåëüíîì ï ñ à ë ì å × å ò â å ð ã à âèçàíòèéñêèé ðàïñîä ñîçäàë îñîáåííóþ ãëàâó ïîäîáíóþ ñåòîâàíèþ óæå ðàñïÿòîãî Õðèñòà: «Ñíÿëè îäåæäû ìîè, è íàäåëè õëàìèäó êðàñíóþ…»  êîíöå äàííîãî ïñàëìà âûðàæàåòñÿ òîðæåñòâóþùèé êðèê Èèñóñà è íåêèé âèä «îòìùåíèÿ» åâðåÿì, ïðåñëåäîâàâøèì åãî: «À òû, Ãîñïîäè, âîñêðåñèë ìåíÿ, äàáû ñìîã ÿ óíè÷òîæèòü èõ, ñëîâíî ïîñóäó ãëèíÿíóþ». Îñîáåííî óäèâèòåëüíîå çðåëèùå ïðåäñòàâëÿåò ñîáîé ïðàçäíîâàíèå Âîñêðåñåíèÿ Õðèñòîâà íà Êîðôó âå÷åðîì Ñòðàñòíîé Ñóááîòû íà áîëüøèé ïëîùàäè Ëèñòîí. Âñå ñîðîê õ ð à ì î â ã î ð î ä à îäíîâðåìåííî ïðàçäíóþò Âîñêðåñåíèå Õðèñòîâî ïîä çâóêè ôèëàðìîíè÷åñêîãî îðêåñòðà ïðè ó÷àñòèè òûñÿ÷ çðèòåëåé. Ïóòåøåñòâèå â îáû÷àè è òðàäèöèè ïðàçäíîâàíèÿ ï ð à ç ä í è ê à Ï à ñ õ è ïðîäîëæàåòñÿ ýòî ñíîâà îñòðîâíàÿ Ãðåöèÿ, à èìåííî, ãðóïïà îñòðîâîâ Êèêëàäû è Äîäåêàíèñà (12 îñòðîâîâ). Íà÷èíàÿ ñ ïîñëåäíåé ãðóïïû, ò.å. ñ Äîäåêàíèñà, â îáÿçàòåëüíîì ïîðÿäêå íóæíî ñäåëàòü îñòàíîâêó íà ñâÿùåííîì îñòðîâå, ãäå áûë íàïèñàí Àïîêàëèïñèñ, íà îñòðîâå Ïàòìîñ. Çäåñü ðèòóàëû âñåé Ñòðàñòíîé Ñåäìèöû ñîáëþäàþòñÿ ñ îñîáûì ïî÷òåíèåì. Öåíòðîì âñåõ ðèòóàëîâ è îáðÿäîâ ÿâëÿåòñÿ îáðÿä «Íèïòèðàñ» (îìîâåíèå).  Ñòðàñòíîé ×åòâåðã ï ð î è ñ õ î ä è ò âîñïðîèçâåäåíèå Òàéíîé  å ÷ å ð è Í è ï ò è ð à ñ (îìîâåíèå) íà öåíòðàëüíîé ïëîùàäè ñòîëèöû îñòðîâà, ãäå èãóìåí ìîåò íîãè 12 ìîíàõàì, êàê è ñàì Èèñóñ
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
áðü ôçí óçìåñéíÞ åñìçíåßá ôçò. Óôéò ÊõêëÜäåò, óôçí ÐÜñï óõãêåêñéìÝíá, ç ðåñéöïñÜ ôïõ Åðéôáößïõ ôçò ÌÜñðçóóáò, êÜíåé ïýôå ëßãï ïýôå ðïëý, äåêáðÝíôå ðåñßðïõ óôÜóåéò. Óå êÜèå óôÜóç äå, öùôßæåôáé êáé Ýíá óçìåßï ôïõ âïõíïý, üðïõ ðáéäéÜ êáé íÝïé, íôõìÝíïé êÜðïéïé Ñùìáßïé óôñáôéþôåò êáé êÜðïéïé ìáèçôÝò ôïõ ×ñéóôïý, áíáðáñéóôïýí óêçíÝò áðü ôçí åßóïäï óôá Éåñïóüëõìá, ôçí ðñïóåõ÷Þ óôï ¼ñïò ôùí Åëáéþí, ôï Ìáñôýñéï ôçò Óôáýñùóçò êáé ôÝëïò ôçí ÁíÜóôáóç.
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the Resurrection can be heard in seven languages (Italian, Russian, French, English, German, Serbian and ancient Homeric Greek). This is globalisation in its true form, expressed through a concept that is unfortunately very far from its modernday interpretation. On Paros, which is part of the Cyclades islands, the procession of the Epitaph of Marpissa makes approximately fifteen stops. At each stop a section of the mountain is lit up and there, children and youths, some dressed as Roman soldiers and some as the disciples of Jesus, enact scenes from His entry into Jerusalem, Prayer on the Mount of Olives, the Agony of the Crucifixion and finally the Resurrection. Spectators, whether locals or visitors, are always surprised by the aesthetic result of the enactments. When the procession of the Epitaph is over, the locals do not throw away their candles. They keep them and light
ñâîèì ó÷åíèêàì.  ïàñõàëüíîå Âîñêðåñåíüå â ìîíàñòûðå Ïàòìîñà ñîâåðøàåòñÿ âòîðîå Âîñêðåñåíèå, ãäå ìîæíî óñëûøàòü Âîñêðåñíîå Åâàíãåëèå íà ñåìè ÿçûêàõ (èòàëüÿíñêîì, ðóññêîì, ôðàíöóçñêîì, àíãëèéñêîì, íåìåöêîì, ñåðáñêîì è äðåâíåãðå÷åñêîì). Ïîæàëóé, çäåñü ãëîáàëèçàöèÿ ïðèîáðåòàåò ñâîé ïîäëèííûé ñìûñë, êîòîðûé, ê ñîæàëåíèþ, î÷åíü äàë¸ê îò åãî ñåãîäíÿøíåé òðàêòîâêè. Íà Êèêëàäàõ, à èìåííî íà îñòðîâå Ïàðîñ ïðîöåññèÿ, âûíîñÿùàÿ Ñâÿùåííóþ Ïëàùàíèöó Ìàðïèññû, äåëàåò íå ìíîãî íè ìàëî, à ïÿòíàäöàòü îñòàíîâîê. Ïðè êàæäîé îñòàíîâêå âûñâå÷èâàåòñÿ îäíî ìåñòî íà ãîðå, ãäå ìîëîä¸æü è äåòè, îäíè èç êîòîðûõ îäåòû â êîñòþìû ðèìñêèõ âîèíîâ, à äðóãèå ïåðåîäåòû â ó÷åíèêîâ Õðèñòà, ïðåäñòàâëÿþò ñöåíû èç âõîäà â Èåðóñàëèì, ñöåíó ìîëèòâû íà Ãîðå Ýëåîí, ñöåíó ðàñïÿòèÿ è çàòåì Âîñêðåñåíèÿ. Ýòè ïðåäñòàâëåíèÿ óäèâëÿþò çðèòåëåé, êàê ìåñòíûõ, òàê è ïðèåçæèõ, âûñîêèì ýñòåòèçìîì. Ïðè çàâåðøåíèè Âûíîñà Ïëàùàíèöû ìåñòíûå æèòåëè, íå âûáðàñûâàþò, à ñîõðàíÿþò ñâå÷è. È êîãäà íà ìîðå áóäåò ñèëüíûé øòîðì, îíè çàæãóò èõ, ÷òîáû èçãíàòü çëûõ ä ó õ î â è ó ñ ï î ê î è ò ü ðàçáóøåâàâøóþñÿ ñòèõèþ. Ñåãîäíÿ íà îñòðîâå Ñèðîñ êàòîëèêè è ïðàâîñëàâíûå õðèñòèàíå ïðàçäíóþò Ïàñõó âìåñòå. Âûíîñ Ïëàùàíèöû êàòîëèêîâ èç îáëàñòè Àíî Ñèðîñ íà÷èíàåòñÿ èç õðàìà Ñâÿòîãî Ãåîðãèÿ, à â Ýðìóïîëè, â ñòîëèöå îñòðîâà Ñèðîñ, âûíîñ Ïëàùàíèöû êàòîëèêîâ íà÷èíàåòñÿ èç õðàìà Åâàíãåëèñòîâ. Ñîîòâåòñòâåííî â û í î ñ û Ï ë à ù à í è ö û ïðàâîñëàâíûõ õðèñòèàí íà÷èíàåòñÿ ñ öåðêîâíûõ ïðèõîäîâ õðàìîâ Ñâÿòîãî Íèêîëàÿ, Óñïåíèÿ Áîãîðîäèöû è Ìèòðîïîëèè ïðåîáðàæåíèÿ Ãîñïîäíÿ.  òå÷åíèå êðåñòíîãî õîäà îíè âñòðå÷àþòñÿ íà âåëè÷åñòâåííîé öåíòðàëüíîé ïëîùàäè Ìèàóëè, ãäå òûñÿ÷è âåðóþùèõ ïðåäàþòñÿ âñåíîùíîé ìîëèòâå. Íà îñòðîâå Êðèò, â áîëüøèíñòâå äåðåâåíü, à, ãëàâíûì îáðàçîì, â ãîðíûõ ïîñ¸ëêàõ, íåçàäîëãî äî Âîñêðåñåíèÿ âñÿ ìîëîä¸æü ñîáèðàåò äðîâà è ëþáîé ãîðþ÷èé ìàòåðèàë, è ñêëàäûâàåò åãî íà öåðêîâíûõ äâîðàõ. Íàêàíóíå Âîñêðåñåíèÿ
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ ÁíáðáñáóôÜóåéò ðïõ îáöíéÜæïõí ìå ôï áéóèçôéêü ôïõò áðïôÝëåóìá, ãéá üóïõò èá âñåèïýí íá ôï ðáñáêïëïõèÞóïõí. Íôüðéïõò êáé îÝíïõò. ¼ôáí ôåëåéþóåé ç ðåñéöïñÜ ôïõ åðéôÜöéïõ, ôá êåñéÜ ïé íôüðéïé äåí ôá ðåôÜíå áëëÜ èá ôá êñáôÞóïõí êáé üôáí èá Ý÷åé èáëáóóïôáñá÷Þ êáé áíôÜñá óôï Áéãáßï, ôá áíÜâïõí ãéá íá åîïñêßóïõí ôï êáêü êáé íá ðåñÜóåé ç êáêïêáéñßá. Óôçí Óýñï ôþñá ïé êáèïëéêïß êáé ïé ïñèüäïîïé ãéïñôÜæïõí áðü êïéíïý ôéò ìÝñåò ôïõ ÐÜó÷á. Ïé ÅðéôÜöéïé ôùí Êáèïëéêþí óôçí ¢íù Óýñï îåêéíïýí áðü ôïí íáü ôïõ Áãßïõ Ãåùñãßïõ, åíþ óôçí Åñìïýðïëç, ôçí ðñùôåýïõóá ôïõ íçóéïý, ï åðéôÜöéïò ôùí Êáèïëéêþí îåêéíÜåé áðü ôïí Éåñü Íáü ôùí Åõáããåëéóôþí. Áíôßóôïé÷á ïé åðéôÜöéïé ôùí Ïñèïäüîùí, îåêéíïýí áðü ôéò åíïñßåò Áãßïõ ÍéêïëÜïõ, ôçò ÊïéìÞóåùò êáé ôç Ìçôñüðïëç ôçò Ìåôáìïñöþóåùò. ÊáôÜ ôçí äéÜñêåéá ôçò ðåñéöïñÜ ôïõò èá óõíáíôçèïýí óôçí åðéâëçôéêÞ êåíôñéêÞ ðëáôåßá Ìéáïýëç, üðïõ ãßíåôáé êáôáíõêôéêÞ áðü êïéíïý äÝçóç, áðü ÷éëéÜäåò ðéóôïýò. Óôç ÊñÞôç, óôá ðåñéóóüôåñá ÷ùñéÜ ôçò ÊñÞôçò êáé êõñßùò ôá ïñåéíÜ, ëßãï ðñéí ôçí ÁíÜóôáóç, üëïé ïé íÝïé ìáæåýïõí îýëá êáé ïôéäÞðïôå Üëëï ìðïñåß íá êáåß ôá ïðïßá óõãêåíôñþíïõí óôá ðñïáýëéá ôùí åêêëçóéþí. Ôçí ðáñáìïíÞ ôçò ÁíÜóôáóçò ôþñá ó÷çìáôßæïõí Ýíá âïõíü áðü ôá îýëá ðïõ Ý÷ïõí óõóóùñåõôåß êáé óôçí êïñõöÞ ôïõ ôïðïèåôïýí Ýíá ïìïßùìá ôïõ Éïýäá. Ðñüêåéôáé ãéá Ýíá óêéÜ÷ôñï êáôáóêåõáóìÝíï áðü Ü÷õñá, «íôõìÝíï» ì Ýíá ðáëéü êïõóôïýìé êáé ôçí þñá ðïõ ï ðáðÜò ëÝåé ôï «×ñéóôüò ÁíÝóôç» ôïõ âÜæïõí öùôéÜ êáé ôï êáßíå. Êáßíå ôïí Éïýäá ôïí Éóêáñéþôç ðïõ ãéá ôñéÜíôá áñãýñéá ðñüäùóå ôïí Éçóïý .Åîáãíßæïõí óôçí ïõóßá ôçí êáôÜñá ôçò ðñïäïóßáò êáé ôùí áðïôåëåóìÜôùí ôçò. ¼ðùò åßíáé öõóéêü, ç íý÷ôá ãßíåôáé çìÝñá áðü ôéò ôåñÜóôéåò öëüãåò, áðü ôá ðõñïôå÷íÞìáôá êáé ôéò êáìðÜíåò ôùí ÷ùñéþí ðïõ ÷ôõðïýí óõíå÷þò, ìå ôïí Þ÷ï ôïõò íá êÜíåé Ýíá åêñçêôéêü ìåßãìá ìå ôïí êñüôï áðü ôéò åêáôïíôÜäåò «ìðáëùèéÝò» ðïõ äïíïýí ôçí áôìüóöáéñá.
them whenever the Aegean Sea is rough and stormy in order to cast out all evil and let the storm pass. On Syros now the Catholics and Orthodox celebrate Easter together. The Epitaphs of the Catholic churches in Upper Syros set out from the Church of Agios Georgios, while in Ermoupoli, the capital of the island, the Epitaph of the Catholics sets out from the Holy Church of the Evangelists. Similarly, the Epitaphs of the Orthodox set out from the churches of Agios Nikolaos, Koimisis tis Theotokou and Metamorfosi Cathedral. At some point during the procession, they all meet in the grand central square of Miaouli, where in an atmosphere of devoutness thousands of believers join in prayer. On Crete, just before the Resurrection young people from most villages on Crete, especially the mountain villages, gather wood and anything else that can be burned and take them to the churchyards. On the eve of the Resurrection they create a mountain of the wood that has been gathered and place an effigy of Judas on top. This effigy is a scarecrow made of hay and 'dressed' in an old suit. When the priest announces that Christ has arisen (Christos Anesti), they set him on fire and burn him. They burn Judas Iscariot who betrayed Christ for thirty pieces of silver. They essentially burn away the curse of the betrayal and its consequences. As would be expected, the huge flames and fireworks turn the night into day, while the ongoing ringing of the village church bells and the sound of the hundreds of gunshots being fired into the air join in an explosive symphony.
ÏðùóäÞðïôå, üðùò ðñïáíáöÝñèçêå, óå üëç ôçí ÅëëÜäá, ôï ÐÜó÷á ãéïñôÜæåôáé ìå ëáìðñüôçôá êáé ìå ðïëëÝò éäéáéôåñüôçôåò, ðïõ ðçãÜæïõí êýñéá áðü ôçí ðëïýóéá ëáúêÞ ðáñÜäïóç ôùí ÅëëÞíùí. ÅíäåéêôéêÜ ëïéðüí êÜíáìå ìéá áíáöïñÜ óå êÜðïéåò áð áõôÝò óå ôïýôï ôï óçìåßùìá. Ìéá ìéêñÞ ãåýóç áðü ôï ÐÜó÷á, ôï ÐÜó÷á ôùí ÅëëÞíùí ÐÜó÷á, ãéá ìéá óåéñÜ ðñïïñéóìïýò. Ðïõ áîßæåé üðùò êáé íá Ý÷åé íá åðéóêåöôåß ï êáèÝíáò áðü åìÜò Ãéá ôçí åìðåéñßá êáé ìüíï…
As previously mentioned, throughout Greece Easter is celebrated with great splendour and many unique customs that stem primarily from Greece's rich folklore tradition. We have mentioned a few of these in this piece just to give you a small taste of what Easter is like in Greece and, in particular, in a series of destinations which are worth visiting anyway, even if it is just for the experience...
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èç äðîâ ñêëàäûâàåòñÿ ãîðêà, à íà å¸ âåðøèíå óñòàíàâëèâàåòñÿ ôèãóðà Èóäû. Ýòî íàñòîÿùåå ïóãàëî èç ñîëîìû, «îäåòîå» â ñòàðûé êîñòþì. À â ìîìåíò, êîãäà ñâÿùåííèê ÷èòàåò «Õðèñòîñ Âîñêðåñå!», ýòà ôèãóðà ïîäæèãàåòñÿ. Ïîäæèãàåòñÿ Èóäà Èñêàðèîò, êîòîðûé çà òðèäöàòü Ñåðåáðåííèêîâ ïðåäàë Èèñóñà.  ñóùíîñòè, ïðîèñõîäèò èñêóïëåíèå ïðåäàòåëüñòâà è åãî ïîñëåäñòâèé. Åñòåñòâåííî, íî÷ü
ïðåâðàùàåòñÿ â äåíü áëàãîäàðÿ ÿðêèì ÿçûêàì ïëàìåíè âûñîêèõ êîñòðîâ è ôåéåðâåðêàì, à êîëîêîëà õðàìîâ áüþò íåñìîëêàÿ. Âîçäóõ íà÷èíàåò âèáðèðîâàòü îò ñìåñè êîëîêîëüíîãî çâîíà è âûñòðåëîâ. Êàê óæå óïîìèíàëîñü, Ïàñõà ïîâñåìåñòíî â Ãðåöèè ïðàçäíóåòñÿ ñ îñîáîé âåëè÷åñòâåííîñòüþ è ñ ìíîæåñòâîì îáðÿäîâ, êîòîðûå áåðóò èñòîêè èç áîãàòûõ íàðîäíûõ òðàäèöèé ãðåêîâ. Çäåñü áûëî îïèñàíî òîëüêî íåñêîëüêî òàêèõ ðèòóàëîâ. Ýòî âñåãî ëèøü íåáîëüøîé ýêñêóðñ â èñòîðèþ ïðàçäíîâàíèÿ Ïàñõè, ãðå÷åñêîé Ïàñõè, ìàðøðóòû Ïàñõè ïî ðàçëè÷íûì îáëàñòÿì ýòîé çàìå÷àòåëüíîé ñòðàíû. Êàæäîìó èç íàñ, òîëüêî ðàäè ëè÷íîãî îïûòà, ñòîèò ïðîéòè ïî ýòèì ìàðøðóòàì...
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
Ôï Íáõôéêü Ìïõóåßï óôç ×ßï
The Chios Maritime Museum Ìóçåé Ìîðåïëàâàíèÿ Îñòðîâà Õèîñ Åßíáé áëÞèåéá ôüóá ðïëëÜ ðïõ ìðïñåß íá äåé ï åðéóêÝðôçò ôçò ×ßïõ ïðïéáäÞðïôå åðï÷Þ áðïöáóßóåé íá ôçí åðéóêåöôåß, ðïõ ÷áßñïìáé éäéáßôåñá, êÜèå öïñÜ ðïõ ìïõ äßíåôáé ç äõíáôüôçôá íá åóôéÜóù ó Ýíá áðï áõôÜ. Íá ôï ðñïâÜëëù, íá «æïõìÜñù» ðÜíù ôïõ, íá ìåôáöÝñù ôçí áýñá ôïõ, ôçí åíÝñãåéÜ ôïõ, óôïí åðéóêÝðôç ðïõ ãéá ðñþôç öïñÜ Þ êáé ðïëëïóôÞ, äåí Ý÷åé óçìáóßá, åðéóêÝðôåôáé ôï ðáíÝìïñöï íçóß, ôï íçóß ôçò ìáóôß÷áò, ôï íçóß ôùí êáðåôáíáßùí, ôï íçóß ìå ôá áîåðÝñáóôá ìíçìåßá ôçò öýóçò êáé ôùí áíèñþðùí. ¸íá ðïëý éäéáßôåñï ìïõóåßï åäþ óôï íçóß
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There are so many things to see when visiting the island of Chios, regardless of the time of the year, that I am always thrilled when given the opportunity to focus on one of these things, to promote it, zoom in on it and convey its aura and energy to the visitor visiting this beautiful island for the first time or the hundredth it makes absolutely no difference, the island of mastic, of seafarers and of unparalleled monuments of nature and man.
Íà îñòðîâå Õèîñ òàê ìíîãî äîñòîïðèìå÷àòåëüíîñòåé, ïðåêðàñíûõ â ëþáîå âðåìÿ ãîäà è äîñòóïíûõ äëÿ ïîñåòèòåëåé, ÷òî ëþáàÿ âîçìîæíîñòü ðàññêàçàòü î êàêîé ëèáî èç íèõ, äîñòàâëÿåò ðàäîñòü è óäîâëåòâîðåíèå. Ðàññêàçàòü îá îñòðîâå, «ñôîêóñèðîâàòüñÿ» íà í¸ì, ïåðåäàòü åãî àóðó è ýíåðãåòèêó äëÿ ïóòåøåñòâåííèêà, êîòîðûé, àáñîëþòíî íåâàæíî, â ïåðâûé èëè ñîòûé ðàç, ïîñåùàåò ýòîò ïðåêðàñíûé îñòðîâ, îñòðîâ ìàñòèêè (ñìîëà ìàñòè÷íîãî äåðåâà), îñòðîâ êàïèòàíîâ, îñòðîâ íåïðåâçîéäåííûõ ïàìÿòíèêîâ ïðèðîäû è îòçûâ÷èâûõ ëþäåé.
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
åßíáé ôï íáõôéêü ìïõóåßï êáé åßíáé äåäïìÝíç ç éäéáéôåñüôçôÜ ôïõ, ìéá êáé ç ×ßïò ðÝñá áðü êÜèå áìöéóâÞôçóç, üðùò êáé ðñïáíáöÝñèçêå, áðïôåëåß ôïí ïìöÜëéï ëþñï ôçò ðáãêüóìéáò íáõôéêÞò ïéêïãÝíåéáò. Êáé äåí åßíáé êáèüëïõ ðïìðþäåò áõôü, èá Ýëåãá. Ïé Üññçêôïé äåóìïß áõôïý ôïõ íçóéïý ìå ôçí èÜëáóóá åßíáé Ýíôïíá áðïôõðùìÝíïé óå üëç ôçí éóôïñéêÞ äéáäñïìÞ ôïõ. ÁíôéãñÜöù áðü ôï ðåñéïäéêü ÁÕËÁÉÁ Ýíá áðüóðáóìá áðü Ýíá áñèñï ðïõ áöïñÜ ôï íáõôéêü ìïõóåßï ôçò ×ßïõ, åßíáé Ýíá Üñèñï ôïõ 2006, íïìßæù üìùò üôé áíôáðïêñßíåôáé êáé óôï óÞìåñá, ìéá êáé ó÷åäüí ðñüóöáôá åðéóêÝöôçêá ôï ìïõóåßï ÷ùñßò íá åíôïðßóù êÜðïéåò óçìáíôéêÝò äéáöïñïðïéÞóåéò. Åî´ Üëëïõ ç ðåìðôïõóßá ôçò ëåéôïõñãßáò ôïõ ðñïöáíþò âñßóêåôáé ðïëý ðåñéóóüôåñï óå üôé áõôü áíôéðñïóùðåýåé äéá÷ñïíéêÜ ãéá ôïõò ×éþôåò, èýìçóåò äçëáäÞ, á÷áñôïãñÜöçôåò ñüôåò, ìðÜñêá óôéò èÜëáóóåò üëïõ ôïõ êüóìïõ, ðáñá åí ôÝëåé åêèÝìáôá, ðïõ
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A very unique museum here on this island is the maritime museum, and this is not just a figure of speech. Chios is beyond a shadow of a doubt the umbilical cord of the global maritime family, and if I may say so, there is no pompousness hidden in that statement. The unbreakable bond between this island and the sea is evident throughout its historical course. Below is an excerpt from AVLAIA magazine. It is from an article on the maritime museum, which was written in 2006, but which accurately portrays the museum today. I recently visited the museum and did not pick up any important differences compared to the article. Besides, the quintessence of its operation lies much more in what it represents to the people of Chios memories, unchartered routes, setting sail across the seas than in the actual exhibits, most of which are replicas of old craft.
Çäåñü, íà îñòðîâå íàõîäèòñÿ íåîñïîðèìî óíèêàëüíûé è îñîáåííûé Ìóçåé ìîðåïëàâàíèÿ, ïîñêîëüêó îñòðîâ Õèîñ, íåñîìíåííî, êàê ãîâîðèëîñü âûøå, ÿâëÿåòñÿ íàñòîÿùåé ïóïîâèíîé âñåìèðíîé ñåìüè ìîðåïëàâàíèÿ è ñóäîõîäñòâà. È â ýòîì âîâñå íåò íèêàêîé ïîìïåçíîñòè. Íåðàçðûâíûå óçû ýòîãî îñòðîâà ñ ìîðåì ÿðêî çàïå÷àòëåíû íà ïðîòÿæåíèè âñåãî åãî èñòîðè÷åñêîãî ïóòè. Õîòåëîñü áû ïðîöèòèðîâàòü âûäåðæêó èç ñòàòüè æóðíàëà «AVLEA» (Çàíàâåñ) î Ìóçåå ìîðåïëàâàíèÿ îñòðîâà Õèîñ. Íå ñìîòðÿ íà òî, ÷òî ñòàòüÿ äàòèðóåòñÿ 2006 ãîäîì, îíà àêòóàëüíà è ñåãîäíÿ, òàê êàê íåäàâíåå ïîñåùåíèå ïîêàçàëî, ÷òî â çàëàõ è â ýêñïîçèöèÿõ ìóçåÿ ñóùåñòâåííûõ èçìåíåíèé íå ïðîèçîøëî. Ïîìèìî ýòîãî, êâèíòýññåíöèÿ ðàáîòû ìóçåÿ, î÷åâèäíî, ïðåäïîëàãàåò åù¸ ìíîãîå äðóãîå òî, ÷òî ÿðêî ïðåäñòàâëÿåò âå÷íûå âî âðåìåíè ïîíÿòèÿ äëÿ æèòåëåé îñòðîâà Õèîñ, à èìåííî: âîñïîìèíàíèÿ, íåèçâåäàííûå ìàðøðóòû, áàðêè ïî ìîðÿì âñåãî ìèðà, íåñìîòðÿ íà ýêñïîíàòû, êîòîðûå, òàê èëè èíà÷å, â áîëüøèíñòâå ñâî¸ì ÿâëÿþòñÿ êîïèÿìè ñòàðèííûõ êîðïóñîâ ñóäîâ.
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
Ýôóé êé áëëéþò áíôßãñáöá ðáëéþí óêáñéþí åßíáé ôá ðåñéóóüôåñá. ¼ôáí óôá ìÝóá ðåñßðïõ ôïõ ðåñáóìÝíïõ áéþíá (1937) Ýöôáóå Ýíá áðü ôá ðñþôá íåïíáõðÞãçôá öïñôçãÜ áôìüðëïéá óôá ÊáñäÜìõëá, ôï «Ãåþñãéïò Ëéâáíüò», ï ôüôå íïìÜñ÷ç ðïõ Ýôõ÷å íá åßíáé êáé ðïéçôÞò, ï ÁèáíáóéÜäçò Íüâá, ôåëåßùóå ôçí ðñïóëáëéÜ ôïõ óôïí áãéáóìü ôùí åãêáéíßùí ìå ôçí åíèïõóéþäç åðùäü. «ÊõâÝñíá ×ßïò ôá ðåëÜãç...». ¹ôáí ðñïöáíþò ðáñÜöñáóç óôß÷ïõ ôïõ åèíéêïý ýìíïõ ôçò ÌåãÜëçò Âñåôáíßáò, ðïõ ëåéôïýñãçóå Ýóôù êáé ùò åëÜóóùí ðñïöçôåßá. Ãéáôß óôéò äåêáåôßåò ðïõ áêïëïýèçóáí êáé ìåôÜ ôç óêëçñÞ äïêéìáóßá ôïõ Â' ÌåãÜëïõ ðïëÝìïõ, ç ×ßïò ìå ôá ðáéäéÜ ôçò -åöïðëéóôÝò, êáðåôáíáßïõò êáé ðëçñþìáôá- äéáöÝíôåõå ü÷é ôá ðåëÜãç, áëëÜ ôïõò ùêåáíïýò ôïõ ÐëáíÞôç. ¹ôáí åðüìåíï ëïéðüí ïé êÜôïéêïé áõôÞò ôçò íáõôéêÞò ðáôñßäáò íá âéþóïõí ôç äýíáìç ôçò èÜëáóóáò óôçí êáèçìåñéíÞ æùÞ ôïõò, ìáæß ìå ôçí éóôïñßá êáé ôçí ðñïúóôïñßá ÷éëéåôçñßäùí, áëëÜ êáé ìå ôï âÜñïò ôçò áêñéôéêÞò áðïóôïëÞò ôïõò, ìåôáîý Äýóçò êáé ÁíáôïëÞò. ¸ôóé üôáí ç êáðåôÜíéóóá, ôá
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Almost halfway through the previous century (1937), when one of the first cargo steamships, the “Georgios Livanos”, arrived at Kardamyla, the Prefect at the time, Nova Athanasiadis, who also happened to be a poet, ended his speech at the opening with the following enthusiastic chant: “Chios, reign over the seas…”. It was clearly a paraphrase of a line from the British national anthem, which functioned as a minor prophecy, because in the decades that followed, after the great hardships of World War II, Chios and its children - ship owners, sea captains and crew - ruled not just the seas, but the oceans of the planet. The inhabitants of this maritime homeland could not but experience the force of the sea in their everyday lives, combined with the history and prehistory of millennia, and the burden of their faraway missions extending from
Êîãäà ïðèìåðíî â ñåðåäèíå ïðîøëîãî âåêà (â 1937 ãîäó) â ïîðò Êàðäàìèëà ïðèáûë îäèí èç ïåðâûõ ãðóçîâûõ ïàðîõîäîâ «Ãåîðãèîñ Ëèâàíîñ», òîãäàøíèé ïðåôåêò îáëàñòè, Àôàíàñèàäèñ Íîâà, êîòîðûé ê òîìó æå áûë è ïîýòîì, çàâåðøèë ñâîþ ïðèâåòñòâåííóþ ðå÷ü, ïîñâÿù¸ííóþ òîðæåñòâåííîìó îñâÿùåíèþ ïàðîõîäà íà öåðåìîíèè îòêðûòèÿ, âäîõíîâåííûìè ñëîâàìè: «Âëàñòâóé, Õèîñ, ïî ìîðÿì è îêåàíàì…». Ýòî, î÷åâèäíî, áûë ïàðàôðàç ñòèõîâ íàöèîíàëüíîãî ãèìíà Âåëèêîáðèòàíèè, ñðàáîòàâøèõ êàê ïå÷àëüíîå ïðîðî÷åñòâî. Òàê êàê â ïîñëåäóþùèå äåñÿòèëåòèÿ è ïîñëå æåñòîêèõ èñïûòàíèé Âòîðîé ìèðîâîé âîéíû, îñòðîâ Õèîñ è åãî äåòè ñóäîâëàäåëüöû, êàïèòàíû è ýêèïàæè ñóäîâ - âëàñòâîâàëè íå íà ìîðÿõ, à áîðîçäèëè ïðîñòîðû ìèðîâîãî îêåàíà. Æèòåëè ýòîé ìîðñêîé äåðæàâû íåîòâðàòèìî èñïûòàëè ìîùü ìîðñêîé ñòèõèè â èõ ïîâñåäíåâíîé æèçíè íàðÿäó ñ èñòîðèåé è òûñÿ÷åëåòíåé ïðåäûñòîðèåé, âìåñòå ñ òÿæ¸ëûì áðåìåíåì ïðèãðàíè÷íîé ìèññèè, ìåæäó Çàïàäîì è Âîñòîêîì. Ïîýòîìó, êîãäà æåíà êàïèòàíà â ïåðâûå ïîñëåâîåííûå ãîäû âåëèêîé ìîðñêîé ðåêîíñòðóêöèè ðîæàëà ìàëü÷èêà, è îá ýòîì óçíàâàëà âñÿ îêðóãà,
ðñþôá ìåôáðïëåìéêÜ ÷ñüíéá ôçò ìåãÜëçò íáõôéëéáêÞò áíáóõãêñüôçóçò, ãåííïýóå áãüñé, ç ôïðéêÞ êïéíùíßá ìÜèáéíå, ðïëëÝò öïñÝò, ôï ÷áñìüóõíï ãåãïíüò ìå ôçí åíôõðùóéáêÞ öñÜóç: «Ç êáðåôÜíéóóá Ýêáíå ëßìðåñôõ!!!» ÁõôÞ ôç íáõôéêÞ éóôïñßá êáé áõôÞ ôç ëáúêÞ ðáñÜäïóç, öéëïäïîåß íá ðñïâÜëåé êáé íá áîéïðïéÞóåé ôï Íáõôéêü Ìïõóåßï ×ßïõ, ðïõ åãêáéíßáóå ôç ëåéôïõñãßá ôïõ óôéò 24 Áõãïýóôïõ 1997 ìå åêèÝìáôá, êåéìÞëéá êáé óõíå÷þò åìðëïõôéóìÝíï éóôïñéêü õëéêü, ãéá íá ôñïöïäïôÞóåé ôï Üãíùóôï êáé áðñïóäéüñéóôï áýñéï ìå ôá åñåßóìáôá êáé ôç äýíáìç ôïõ ÷èåò. Êáé ü÷é ìüíï óå ôïðéêÞ, áëëÜ óå ðáíåëëÞíéá êëßìáêá. Ãéáôß ç èÜëáóóá åßíáé ãñáììÝíç óôï êýôôáñï ôçò öõëÞò êáé ãéáôß ï ðëïýôïò West to East. And so, during the postwar years, when the island's maritime life was getting back together, if a captain's wife had a baby boy, the local community would often hear about this joyous occasion through the following impressive phrase: “The captain's wife has given birth to a liberty ship!!!” This maritime history and folk tradition are what the Chios Maritime Museum is aspiring to promote and make the most of. The museum opened on 24 August 1997 featuring exhibits, heirlooms and a historical collection that is constantly being enriched in order to supply the unknown and indefinite future with the foundations and strength of the past, not only at the local but also at the national level. And this because the sea is deeply rooted in the DNA of this race, and because its wealth must once again be a national objective throughout the third millennium. This is a timeless role if we take into account that in the early postrevolutionary years a foreign king, William IV of England, was very insightful in outlining the course that should be taken by the newly-established Greek state. When advising Lord Lyons, the first ambassador he appointed to Greece, he pointed to the map and advised: There is no other state in the world that has such a large coastline compared to its size. Make sure that the Greeks take care of their maritime sector. This will be their glory and their future… In our time a museum is not just a matter of historical remembrance. çà÷àñòóþ ñ÷àñòëèâàÿ âåñòü ñîîáùàëàñü ñ óäèâèòåëüíîé ôðàçîé: «Êàïèòàíøà ðîäèëà îñâîáîäèòåëÿ!!!» Èìåííî ýòó èñòîðèþ ìîðåïëàâàíèÿ è òàêèå íàðîäíûå òðàäèöèè ñòðåìèòñÿ ïðîäåìîíñòðèðîâàòü è âîññòàíîâèòü ìóçåé ìîðåïëàâàíèÿ îñòðîâà Õèîñ, êîòîðûé íà÷àë ñâîþ äåÿòåëüíîñòü 24 àâãóñòà 1997 ãîäà, âûñòàâëÿÿ ýêñïîíàòû, ðåëèêâèè è ïîñòîÿííî îáíîâëÿåìóþ ýêñïîçèöèþ èñòîðè÷åñêîãî ìàòåðèàëà, ÷òîáû ñîçäàòü ïî÷âó äëÿ íåèçâåñòíîãî è íåîïðåäåëåííîãî çàâòðàøíåãî äíÿ, îñíîâûâàÿñü íà ìîùè â÷åðàøíåãî. È íå òîëüêî â ìåñòíîì, íî â íàöèîíàëüíîì ìàñøòàáå. Ïîòîìó ÷òî ìîðå çàëîæåíî â ãåíåòè÷åñêîì êîäå íàöèè, è ìîðñêèå áîãàòñòâà äîëæíû ñíîâà ñòàòü íàöèîíàëüíîé öåëüþ â òðåòüåì òûñÿ÷åëåòèè. Ýòî âå÷íàÿ àêñèîìà, ó÷èòûâàÿ, ÷òî â ïåðâûå ïîñëåðåâîëþöèîííûå ãîäû êîðîëü Àíãëèè, Âèëüãåëüì IV, ñ íåîáûêíîâåííîé ïðîíèöàòåëüíîñòüþ ïðåäñêàçàë ïóòü è îïðåäåëèë êóðñ âíîâü ñîçäàííîãî ãðå÷åñêîãî ãîñóäàðñòâà. Òàê, êîíñóëüòèðóÿ ëîðäà Ëàéîíñ, ïåðâîãî ïîñëà Àíãëèè â Ãðåöèè, êîðîëü óêàçàë ìåñòî íà êàðòå è äàë ðåêîìåíäàöèþ: «Íè îäíî ãîñóäàðñòâî â ìèðå íå èìååò ïî àíàëîãèè ñ åãî ïëîùàäüþ òàêîé ïðîòÿæ¸ííîé áåðåãîâîé ëèíèè, êàê ýòà ñòðàíà. Ïðèëîæèòå âñå óñèëèÿ, ÷òîáû ãðåêè ïîçàáîòèëèñü îá èõ ñîáñòâåííîì ôëîòå. Ýòî ïðîñëàâèò èõ è ñòàíåò èõ áóäóùèì...».  íàøå âðåìÿ ìóçåé - ýòî íå ïðîñòî ñîáðàíèå ïàìÿòíèêîâ èñòîðèè. Îí ÿâëÿåòñÿ ïðî÷íûì ôóíäàìåíòîì äëÿ ìîëîäîãî ïîêîëåíèÿ, êîòîðûé äà¸ò ïî÷âó ìîëîä¸æè ñ óâåðåííîñòüþ ñîâåðøèòü ñêà÷îê â áóäóùåå. Ñ òàêèìè ìûñëÿìè è ÷óâñòâàìè ìóçåé ìîðåïëàâàíèÿ îñòðîâà Õèîñ ïðèâåòñòâóåò è ãîñòåïðèèìíî ïðèíèìàåò
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
ôçò ðñÝðåé íá åßíáé ðÜëé ï åèíéêüò óôü÷ïò êáôÜ ôçí ôñßôç ÷éëéåôçñßäá. Ðñüêåéôáé ãéá äéá÷ñïíéêü áîßùìá, áí ëÜâïõìå õðüøç üôé ôá ðñþôá êéüëáò ìåôåðáíáóôáôéêÜ ÷ñüíéá Ýíáò îÝíïò âáóéëÝáò, ï ÃïõëéÝëìïò ï Ä' ôçò Áããëßáò, ðñïóäéüñéóå ìå åîáéñåôéêÞ äéïñáôéêüôçôá ðïéÜ Ýðñåðå íá Þôáí ç ðïñåßá ôïõ íåïóýóôáôïõ åëëçíéêïý êñÜôïõò. Óõìâïõëåýïíôáò ëïéðüí ôïí Ëüñäï ËÜéïíò, ðñùôïäéïñéóèÝíôá ðñåóâåõôÞ ôïõ óôçí ÅëëÜäá, ôïõ óõíÝóôçóå äåß÷íïíôáò óôï ÷Üñôç: «ÊáíÝíá êñÜôïò óôïí Êüóìï äåí Ý÷åé áíÜëïãá ìå ôçí Ýêôáóç ôïõ ôüóï ìåãÜëç áêôïãñáììÞ üóï ç ÷þñá áõôÞ. Öñüíôéóå íá êÜíåéò ôïõò ¸ëëçíåò íá ðñïóÝîïõí ôï íáõôéêü ôïõò. Áõôü èá åßíáé ç äüîá êáé áõôü ôï ìÝëëïí ôïõò...».
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Its role is to act as a springboard for younger generations, so that they can take confident leaps towards the future. It is with these thoughts and feelings that the Chios Maritime Museum welcomes its visitors to inform them and in this way help them see the fate of their homeland written in the blue waves, along with the age-old and glorious maritime course of Chios. The Chios Maritime Museum, an old dream of all people of Chios far and wide, is the result of a private initiative that primarily aims to illustrate using historical and cultural evidence the longstanding, dynamic and passionate rela-
ïîñåòèòåëåé, ïðåäîñòàâëÿÿ íå òîëüêî ìàññó èíôîðìàöèè, êîòîðàÿ ïîìîãàåò åìó ñ÷èòàòü «ñ ñèíèõ ñòðàíèö âîëí» ñóäüáó ñâîåé ðîäèíû, íî äàâíþþ è óäèâèòåëüíóþ ìîðñêóþ èñòîðèþ îñòðîâà. Ìóçåé ìîðåïëàâàíèÿ îñòðîâà Õèîñ - äàâíÿÿ ìå÷òà âñåõ æèòåëåé îñòðîâà, äåëî æèçíè è òðóä ÷àñòíûõ èíèöèàòîðîâ - èìååò îäíîé èç ê ë þ ÷ å â û õ ç à ä à ÷ ïðîèëëþñòðèðîâàòü ïðè ïîìîùè èñòîðè÷åñêèõ è êóëüòóðíûõ ýêñïîíàòîâ äîëãóþ, ïîëíóþ äèíàìèêè è ñòðàñòåé, êðåïêóþ ñâÿçü îñòðîâà ñ ìîðåì. Êðîìå
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
Óôçí åðï÷Þ ìáò Ýíá Ìïõóåßï äåí åßíáé õðüèåóç ìüíïí éóôïñéêÞò ìíÞìçò. Ïöåßëåé íá ëåéôïõñãåß êáé ùò âáôÞñáò ãéá ôç íåüôåñç ãåíéÜ, þóôå íá åðé÷åéñåß ìå óéãïõñéÜ ôï Üëìá ðñïò ôï ìÝëëïí. Ìå ôÝôïéåò óêÝøåéò êáé áéóèÞìáôá ôï Íáõôéêü Ìïõóåßï ×ßïõ õðïäÝ÷åôáé ôïí åðéóêÝðôç ãéá ìéá êáô' áñ÷Þí åíçìÝñùóç, ðïõ èá ôïí âïçèÞóåé íá äéáâÜóåé «ðÜíù óôá ãáëÜæéá öýëëá ôùí êõìÜôùí» ôç ìïßñá ôçò ðáôñßäáò ôïõ, áëëÜ êáé ôç ìáêñáßùíç üóï êáé èáõìáóôÞ èáëáóóïðïñßá ôçò ×éïõ. Ôï Íáõôéêü Ìïõóåßï ×ßïõ, ðáëéü üíåéñï ôùí áðáíôá÷ïý ×ßùí, åßíáé Ýñãï ôçò éäéùôéêÞò ðñùôïâïõëßáò êáé Ý÷åé ùò âáóéêÞ åðéäßùîç íá åéêïíïãñáöÞóåé ìå éóôïñéêÜ êáé ðïëéôéóôéêÜ ðåéóôÞñéá ôç ìáêñáßùíç, ãåìÜôç äõíáìéóìü êáé ðÜèïò, ó÷Ýóç ôçò ×ßïõ ìå ôç èÜëáóóá êáé ðáñÜëëçëá íá ðñïâÜëåé ôç íáõôéêÞ ôçò ðáñÜäïóç ìå åêèÝóåéò, äéáëÝîåéò, óõíÝäñéá, êáèþò êáé ìÝóá áðü ôç óõíåñãáóßá ìå ôá áíôßóôïé÷á éäñýìáôá ôïõ áéãáéáêïý ÷þñïõ. Ôï Ìïõóåßï óôåãÜæåôáé óôï êÝíôñï ôçò ðüëåùò, óôï ðáñáäïóéáêü áñ÷ïíôéêü ôïõ æåýãïõò Áíáóôáóßïõ êáé Ìáñïõêþò ÐáôÝñá, ðïõ äùñßèçêå ãéá ôï óêïðü áõôü áðü ôïõò êëçñïíüìïõò ôïõò ôï 1991.
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tionship between Chios and the sea, while at the same time presenting its maritime tradition through exhibits, lectures and conferences, as well as through its cooperation with similar institutions in the Aegean region. The Museum is located in the centre of the town and is housed in the traditional mansion of Marouko and Anastasios Pateras, which was donated for this purpose by its heirs in 1991. It is a 19th century building featuring the neoclassical island style and unique ceiling paintings. After largescale renovation and careful interventions on the interior and garden, it now offers a harmonious and authentic environment that highlights the various exhibits. The core of the Museum is the small and highly remarkable collection of the Progressive Cultural Union of Vrontados, which has been enriched through the donation mainly of replicas and ship parts. The exhibits include paintings of the sailing vessels and steam ships of the
òîãî, ïàðàëëåëüíî ïîä÷åðêíóòü è ïîïóëÿðèçèðîâàòü âàæíîñòü ìîðñêèõ òðàäèöèé îñòðîâà, îðãàíèçîâûâàÿ âûñòàâêè, ëåêöèè, êîíôåðåíöèè â ðàìêàõ ñîòðóäíè÷åñòâà ñ êîëëåãàìè â ðåãèîíå Ýãåéñêîãî ìîðÿ. Ìóçåé ðàñïîëîæåí â öåíòðå ãîðîäà â òðàäèöèîííîì îñîáíÿêå ñóïðóãîâ Àíàñòàñèÿ è Ìàðóêàñ Ïàòåðà, êîòîðûé áûë ïðèíåñ¸í â äàð ãîðîäó èõ íàñëåäíèêàìè â 1991 ãîäó äëÿ èñïîëüçîâàíèÿ ñ öåëüþ ñîçäàíèÿ ìóçåÿ. Îñîáíÿê ïðåäñòàâëÿåò ñîáîé çäàíèå IXX-ãî âåêà, âûïîëíåííîå â ñòèëå íåîêëàññèöèçìà ñ õàðàêòåðíûìè ÷åðòàìè îñòðîâíîé àðõèòåêòóðû, ñ òèïè÷íûìè ðîñïèñÿìè ïîòîëêîâ, ãäå ïîñëå ðàäèêàëüíîé ðåñòàâðàöèè è òùàòåëüíûõ èçìåíåíèé â èíòåðüåðå è íà òåððèòîðèè ñàäà áûëè ðàçìåùåíû ðàçíîîáðàçíûå ýêñïîíàòû. Ïðè÷¸ì ñäåëàíî ýòî òàêèì îáðàçîì, ÷òî îíè ãàðìîíè÷íî âïèñûâàþòñÿ â åñòåñòâåííóþ ñðåäó.Îñíîâó âñåé ýêñïîçèöèè ìóçåÿ ñîñòàâëÿåò íåáîëüøàÿ, íî î÷åíü öåííàÿ êîëëåêöèÿ Ïðîãðåññèâíîãî êóëüòóðíîãî Ñîþçà ïîñ. Âðîíäàäîñ (ÏÊÑÂ), âïîñëåäñòâèè
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
skippers of Chios, as well as works by the ship-painter Aristeidis Glykas (Vrontados, 18701940), which are considered masterpieces of the folk art created in the late nine-teenth and early twentieth centuries. The Museum's collections also include rare photographs of the life and people on the island, as well as a series of objects that were or are currently used in shipping.
Ðñüêåéôáé ãéá êôßñéï ôïõ 19ïõ áéþíá, íåïêëáóéêïý íçóéþôéêïõ ñõèìïý, ìå ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêÝò ïñïöïãñáößåò, ðïõ ìåôÜ áðü åõñåßá áíáêáßíéóç êáé ðñïóåêôéêÝò ðáñåìâÜóåéò óôïõò åóùôåñéêïýò ÷þñïõò êáé óôïí êÞðï, öéëïîåíåß ôá äéÜöïñá åêèÝìáôá êáôÜ ôñüðï ðïõ áíáäåéêíýïíôáé ìÝóá óå Ýíá áñìïíéêü êáé áõèåíôéêü ðåñéâÜëëïí. Ï ðõñÞíáò ôùí åêèåìÜôùí ôïõ Ìïõóåßïõ Þôáí ç ìéêñÞ áëëÜ éäéáßôåñá áîéüëïãç óõëëïãÞ ôçò ÐñïïäåõôéêÞò ÅêðïëéôéóôéêÞò ¸íùóçò ÂñïíôÜäïõ (Ð.Å.Ê.Å.Â.) ðïõ óôç óõíÝ÷åéá åìðëïõôßóôçêå ìå äùñåÝò êõñßùò ïìïéùìÜôùí êáé åîáñôçìÜôùí ðëïßùí. Ìåôáîý ôùí åêèåìÜôùí ðåñéëáìâÜíïíôáé ðßíáêåò éóôéïöüñùí êáé áôìïêéíÞôùí ðëïßùí ôùí êáñáâïêýñçäùí ôçò ×ßïõ, êáèþò êáé Ýñãá ôïõ ðëïéïãñÜöïõ Áñéóôåßäç Ãëýêá (ÂñïíôÜäïò, 1870-1940) ðïõ èåùñïýíôáé áñéóôïõñãÞìáôá ôçò ëáúêÞò æùãñáöéêÞò ôïõ ôÝëïõò ôïõ ðñïçãïýìåíïõ áéþíá êáé ôùí áñ÷þí ôïõ åéêïóôïý. Áêüìç, óôéò óõëëïãÝò ôïõ Ìïõóåßïõ èá âñåé ï åðéóêÝðôçò óðÜíéåò öùôïãñáößåò áðü ôç æùÞ ôïõ íçóéïý êáé ôùí áíèñþðùí ôïõ, áëëÜ êáé ìéá óåéñÜ áíôéêåßìåíá ðïõ Ý÷ïõí ÷ñçóéìïðïéçèåß Þ ÷ñçóéìïðïéïýíôáé óôç íáõôéëßá.
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îáîãàù¸ííàÿ ïðèíåñ¸ííûìè â äàð ìîäåëÿìè è ÷àñòÿìè ìîðñêîãî îáîðóäîâàíèÿ ñóäîâ. Ñðåäè ýêñïîíàòîâ èìåþòñÿ êàðòèíû ñ èçîáðàæåíèåì ïàðóñíèêîâ è ïàðîõîäîâ, ïðèíàäëåæàùèõ ñóäîâëàäåëüöàì îñòðîâà, à òàêæå ïðîèçâåäåíèÿ èçâåñòíîãî õóäîæíèêàìàðèíèñòà Àðèñòèäèñà Ãëèêàñà (ïîñ. Âðîíäàäîñ, 1870-1940ãã.), êîòîðûå ïðèçíàíû øåäåâðàìè íàðîäíîãî èñêóññòâà êîíöà äåâÿòíàäöàòîãî è íà÷àëà äâàäöàòîãî âåêîâ. Êðîìå òîãî, â êîëëåêöèÿõ ìóçåÿ ïîñåòèòåëü íàéäåò ðåäêèå ôîòîãðàôèè èç æèçíè îñòðîâà è åãî æèòåëåé, à òàêæå öåëûé ðÿä ïðåäìåòîâ, êîòîðûå áûëè èñïîëüçîâàíû èëè èñïîëüçóþòñÿ â ìîðåïëàâàíèè.
Óôï Âáèý, ôçí ðñùôåýïõóá ôçò ÓÜìïõ
ÓÜìïò/ Samos/ Ñàìîñ
In Vathi, the capital of samos Ïðîãóëêà ïî ãîðîäó Âàòè, ñòîëèöå îñòðîâà Ñàìîñ 148 betterfly magazine
ÓÜìïò/ Samos/ Ñàìîñ
Ç ÓÜìïò åßíáé Ýíá íçóß ìå äéá÷ñïíéêÞ ïìïñöéÜ, Ýíá íçóß ãåìÜôï åêðëÞîåéò êáé ôéò ôÝóóåñåéò åðï÷Ýò ôïõ ÷ñüíïõ. Êáé áðåõèýíåôáé, ðñÜãìá ðïëý óçìáíôéêü, ó´ Ýíá éäéáßôåñá åêôåôáìÝíï target group åðéóêåðôþí, åêôåôáìÝíï êýñéá çëéêéáêÜ, áëëÜ åðßóçò êáé óå åðéóêÝðôåò ìå åíáëëáêôéêÜ åíäéáöÝñïíôá, øáãìÝíïõò êáé óõíåéäçôïðïéçìÝíïõò óå ó÷Ýóç ìå ôéò áíáæçôÞóåéò ôïõò óôéò äéáêïðÝò ôïõò. Ìå ôá öôåñÜ ôçò ASTRA ç áðüóôáóç ôçò ÓÜìïõ ìå ôçí Â. ÅëëÜäá öáßíåôáé ðïëý ìéêñÞ, Ýôóé ç áðüöáóç ãéá Ýíá ôñéÞìåñï week end óôï íçóß ôïõ Ðõèáãüñá äåí áðáéôåß êáé ðïëý ðñïåôïéìáóßá, èá Ýëåãá. Áñêåß íá Ý÷åéò óýììá÷ï ôïí êáéñü, öèÜíïíôáò óôï áåñïäñüìéï «Áñßóôáñ÷ïò ï ÓÜìéïò» êáé åãþ óå áõôü ôï ïäïéðïñéêü ôïí åß÷á. ¸ôóé ç ðåñéðëÜíçóÞ ìïõ óôï íçóß Ýãéíå ó÷åäüí ìå áíïéîéÜôéêåò Þ áí ðñïôéìÜôå öèéíïðùñéíÝò óõíèÞêåò, ìå ôçí äéáìïíÞ ìïõ óôï Âáèý ôçí ãïçôåõôéêÞ ðñùôåýïõóá ôçò ÓÜìïõ, íá ìçí åßíáé êáèüëïõ óôáôéêÞ, ðåñéïñéóìÝíç óå êÜðïéïõò êëåéóôïýò ÷þñïõò. Áíôßèåôá ðåñéåß÷å ðïëý ðåñðÜôçìá óôçí áãïñÜ, ðïõ åßíáé êÜôé ðåñéóóüôåñï áðü óõìðáèçôéêÞ ìå ôéò ìéíéìáëéóôéêÝò ôçò äéáóôÜóåéò, ìå ìéá íù÷åëéêüôçôá åõêïëïäéÜêñéôç ôïýôç ôçí åðï÷Þ ðïõ áðåõèýíåôáé êáôÜ êýñéï ëüãï óôçí íôüðéá ðåëáôåßá. Ðïëý ðåñðÜôçìá åðßóçò óôá óôåíïóüêáêá ðïõ ðåñéâÜëëïõí áðü ôéò ôñåßò ðëåõñÝò ôçí êåíôñéêÞ ðëáêüóôñùôç ðëáôåßá Ðõèáãüñá, ìå ôï óçìåéïëïãéêü ìáñìÜñéíï ëéïíôÜñé ôçò íá áôåíßæåé áãÝñù÷ï åêåß óôï êÝíôñï. ¸íá ëéïíôÜñé, óõìâïëéêü ìíçìåßï ðïõ Ý÷åé ôïðïèåôçèåß åäþ
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Samos is an island with diachronic beauty, an island full of surprises throughout the year. What is most important is that Samos addresses a particularly extensive target group of visitors regardless of the age range and with a large spectrum of alternative interests, visitors who know what they are looking for and are aware of the kind of holidays they seek to enjoy. With the wings of ASTRA the distance between Samos and Northern Greece is annihilated, as a consequence, a three-day week end on Pythagoras island does not require too much preparation. All you need is the weather to be your ally, when I arrived at "Aristarchos of Samos" airport, weather was truly my ally. So, I was able to wander around the island as if it were spring or autumn and my stay in Vathi, the seductive capital of Samos, was no static in the least, I was not confined in sheltered sites. On the contrary, I walked as much as I could in the market place which is so cute and cozy due to its minimal dimensions, everything looks so relaxed this time of the year since the market mainly addresses local customers. I also walked a great deal in the narrow alleys around the three sides of the cobbled central Pythagoras square with the
Îñòðîâ Ñàìîñ ÿâëÿåòñÿ îñòðîâîì âå÷íîé êðàñîòû, îñòðîâîì, ïîëíûì ñþðïðèçîâ âî âñå ÷åòûðå âðåìåíè ãîäà. È, ÷òî î÷åíü âàæíî, îñòðîâ îáðàùàåòñÿ ê îñîáåííî øèðîêîìó êðóãó òóðèñòîâ (target group) ðàçëè÷íûõ âîçðàñòíûõ ãðóïï, à òàêæå, è ê ïîñåòèòåëÿì ñ àëüòåðíàòèâíûìè èíòåðåñàìè, ñ øèðîêèì êðóãîçîðîì è õîðîøî îñâåäîìëåííûì, åñëè ðå÷ü èä¸ò î âûáîðå ìåñòà äëÿ îòïóñêà. Áëàãîäàðÿ áûñòðîêðûëîé àâèàêîìïàíèè «ASTRA» ðàññòîÿíèå äî Ñàìîñà èç Ñåâåðíîé Ãðåöèè êàæåòñÿ ñîâñåì íåáîëüøèì, ïîýòîìó, ìîæíî ñêàçàòü, ÷òî òðåõäíåâíàÿ ïîåçäêà íà âûõîäíûå íà îñòðîâ Ïèôàãîðà íå òðåáóåò îñîáîé ïîäãîòîâêè. Ïðîñòî íóæíî çàðó÷èòüñÿ ïîääåðæêîé ïîãîäû ïî ïðèáûòèè â àýðîïîðò "Àðèñòàðõ Ñàìîññêèé", è â ýòîì ïóòåøåñòâèè òàêàÿ ïîääåðæêà èìåëà ìåñòî. Òàêèì îáðàçîì, ýòè ïðîãóëêè ïî îñòðîâó ïðîõîäèëè ïðè âåñåííåé ïîãîäå, èëè ìîæíî ñêàçàòü â îñåííèõ óñëîâèÿõ, ñ ïðåáûâàíèåì â î÷àðîâàòåëüíîé ñòîëèöå îñòðîâà Ñàìîñ, â ãîðîäå Âàòè, è ãóëÿíèå ýòî âîâñå íå ñòàòè÷åñêîå, íå îãðàíè÷åííîå çàêðûòûì ïðîñòðàíñòâîì. Íàïðîòèâ, ýòà ïðîãóëêà ïî ðûíî÷íîé çîíå ãîðîäà, êîòîðàÿ áîëåå ÷åì ñèìïàòè÷íà ñ å¸ ìèíèìàëèñòñêèìè ðàçìåðàìè, ñ ÿâíîé áåçó÷àñòíîñòüþ â ýòî âðåìÿ ãîäà, êîãäà òîðãîâëÿ íàïðàâëåíà, â ïåðâóþ î÷åðåäü, íà ìåñòíûõ êëèåíòîâ. Çàìå÷àòåëüíî áðîäèòü ïî óçêèì óëî÷êàì, êîòîðûå ñ òðåõ ñòîðîí îêðóæàþò öåíòðàëüíóþ ïëîùàäü èì. Ïèôàãîðà, ñ ïðèìå÷àòåëüíûì ìðàìîðíûì ëüâîì, íàõîäÿùåìñÿ â öåíòðå ïëîùàäè è ñ ãîðäîñòüþ âçèðàþùèì íà ïðîèñõîäÿùåå. Ýòî ñèìâîëè÷åñêèé ïàìÿòíèê, óñòàíîâëåííûé çäåñü â 1930 ãîäó â ïàìÿòü î ãåðîè÷åñêîé áèòâå çà ñâîáîäó ìåñòíîãî íàñåëåíèÿ, áèòâå Êàâîñ Ôîíÿñ. Èìåííî ñ òð¸õ ñòîðîí, ïîòîìó ÷òî ôðîíòàëüíàÿ ÷àñòü ïëîùàäè ñìîòðèò íà ãëàâíóþ ïðèáðåæíóþ óëèöó óë. èìåíè Ô. Ñîôóëè. Õîòÿ õîòåëîñü áû, ÷òîáû ïëàíèðîâêà ïëîùàäè áûëà íåñêîëüêî èíîé, ïîñêîëüêó ñ ýñòåòè÷åñêîé òî÷êè çðåíèÿ îíà íå âïèñûâàåòñÿ â îêðóæàþùèé ëàíäøàôò. È, êîíå÷íî æå, ïðîãóëêà ïî ìîù¸íîé íàáåðåæíîé, í à á å ð å æ í î é , ê î ò î ð à ÿ âîîáðàæàåìî îãðàíè÷èâàåò çàêðûòóþ ìîðñêóþ áóõòó, âîäû êîòîðîé îìûâàþò ãîðîä Âàòè, íàáåðåæíîé ñ óäèâèòåëüíûì âèäîì, êàê íà ìîðå, òàê è íà ïîêðûòûå ëåñîì ãîðíûå ñêëîíû, íà õðåáòàõ êîòîðûõ ðàñïîëîæèëñÿ ñòàðûé è íîâûé ãîðîä. Ãîðîä Âàòè èëè âåðõíèé Âàòè, èëè ñòàðûé Âàòè, êàê åãî ïîìíÿò
ÓÜìïò/ Samos/ Ñàìîñ ôï 1930, óå áíÜìíçóç ìéáò çñùéêÞò ìÜ÷çò ãéá ôïõò íôüðéïõò, ôçò ìÜ÷çò ôïõ ÊÜâïõ ÖïíéÜ. Êáé áíáöÝñù ôñåßò ðëåõñÝò, ãéáôß ç ôçò ðëáôåßáò åßíáé áõôÞ ðïõ «âëÝðåé» óôïí êåíôñéêü ðáñáëéáêü äñüìï, ôçí ïäü Óïöïýëç. Ðïõ ç áëÞèåéá åßíáé üôé èá ôçí ðñïôéìïýóá ìå ìéá äéáöïñåôéêÞ ëïãéêÞ óôçí ÷ÜñáîÞ ôçò, öáßíåôáé ðùò äåí «äÝíåé» áéóèçôéêÜ üóï èá Ýðñåðå ìå ôï ðåñéâÜëëïí. Êáé âÝâáéá ðåñðÜôçìá óôï ðëáêüóôñùôï ôçò ðáñáëßáò, ìéáò ðáñáëßáò ðïõ íïåñÜ ïñéïèåôåß ôïí õðÞíåìï êüëðï ðïõ âñÝ÷åé ôï Âáèý, ìéáò ðáñá-
marble lion, its landmark, gazing at the water. This lion is a commemoration monument of the heroic battle of Kavos Fonias, in 1930. I am referring to the three sides of the square because in the front, the square dominates the central beach road, Sofouli street. The truth of the matter is that I would have preferred it differently traced in the urban plan since it really does not "tie" aesthetically with its surroundings. I was able to walk in the cobbled beach path, a beach that actually defines the lee gulf of Vathi and with an excellent view to
ñòàðîæèëû. Ýòîò íàñåë¸ííûé ïóíêò íà ñåãîäíÿøíèé äåíü íàñ÷èòûâàåò îêîëî 2.0002.500 æèòåëåé; ïî ÷èñëåííîñòè íàñåëåíèÿ ýòî íå ñàìûé êðóïíûé ãîðîä îñòðîâà, ñàìûì êðóïíûì ñ÷èòàåòñÿ ãîðîä Êàðëîâàñè. Íî â Âàòè íàõîäÿòñÿ âñå àäìèíèñòðàòèâíûå ó÷ðåæäåíèÿ è öåíòð ìóíèöèïàëèòåòà Êàëëèêðàòèñà. Îòäàâàÿ äàíü óâàæåíèÿ è ñîâåðøàÿ íåáîëüøîé èñòîðè÷åñêèé ýêñêóðñ, íóæíî îòìåòèòü, ÷òî Âàòè â íà÷àëå ïðîøëîãî âåêà áûë íåáîëüøèì ïðèáðåæíûì ñåëåíèåì, áåñïðèòÿçàòåëüíûì ïîñ¸ëêîì, îñíîâàííûì, ãëàâíûì îáðàçîì, òîðãîâöàìè, ïîñòðîèâøèìè çäåñü ñâîè êîíòîðû è ñêëàäñêèå ïîìåùåíèÿ. Ïîñòåïåííî, ãîðîä ñ
ëßáò ìå åîáéñåôéêÞ èÝá, ôüóï ðñïò ôï ðÝëáãïò, üóï êáé ðñïò ôïõò äáóùìÝíïõò, Üëëïõò ëßãï, Üëëïõò ðïëý ëüöïõò, ðïõ óôéò ðáñõöÝò ôïõò åêôåßíåôáé ç ðáëéÜ êáé ç íåþôåñç ðüëç. Ôï Âáèý Þ Üíù Âáèý, Þ ðáëéü Âáèý, üðùò ôï èõìïýíôáé ïé ðáëáéüôåñïé. ¸íáò ïéêéóìüò ðïõ óÞìåñá óõãêåíôñþíåé ðåñßðïõ 2.000-2.500 êáôïßêïõò, äåí åßíáé óßãïõñá ï ìåãáëýôåñïò ôïõ íçóéïý ðëçèõóìéáêÜ, ìåãáëýôåñï åßíáé ôï Êáñëüâáóé, óôï Âáèý üìùò âñßóêïíôáé óôï óýíïëü ôïõò üëåò ïé äéïéêçôéêÝò õðçñåóßåò, üðùò Üëëùóôå êáé ç Ýäñá ôïõ Êáëëéêñáôéêïý äÞìïõ. Áí åðé÷åéñÞóïõìå ôþñá, óáí öüñï ôéìÞò, Ýíá ìéêñü éóôïñéêü comeback, èá ðñÝðåé íá åðéóçìÜíïõìå üôé ôï Âáèý óôéò áñ÷Ýò ôïõ ðåñáóìÝíïõ áéþíá äåí Þôáí ðáñÜ Ýíáò ìéêñüò ðáñÜêôéïò óõíïéêéóìüò, Ýíáò ðñùôüëåéïò ïéêéóìüò ðïõ éäñýèçêå êáôÜ âÜóç áðü
the sea and to the verdant or not so verdant hills, on the slopes of which extend both the old and the contemporary town: Vathi, or Ano Vathi or old Vathi, as the elderly seem to remember it. A settlement of about 2.000-2.500 inhabitants, not the largest on the island since Karlovasi holds a much larger population, however, Vathi accommodates all the administrative services since it is the seat of the Kallikratis project Municipality. Now if we attempt to pay tribute with a brief historical comeback, we should mention that Vathi, in the beginning of the last century was just a small costal and rudimentary settlement founded mainly by merchants who initially built their offices and warehouses there, then, slowly, a town with
àðõèòåêòóðíûìè æèëûìè ïîñòðîéêàìè íà÷àë ðàçðàñòàòüñÿ âîêðóã ïîðòà. À â 1832 ãîäó ã. Âàòè ñòàë ñòîëèöåé îñòðîâà. Âî âðåìÿ ýêñêóðñèè ïî ãîðîäó ïóòåøåñòâåííèê âñòðå÷àåò ñòàðûå è íîâûå çäàíèÿ, êîòîðûå â ñóììå ñîçäàþò ñâîåîáðàçíûé ýñòåòè÷åñêèé êîìïëåêñ, îïðåäåëÿþùèé èíäèâèäóàëüíîñòü ðåãèîíà. Íåêîòîðûå âåëè÷åñòâåííûå îñîáíÿêè â ñòèëå íåîêëàññèöèçìà, ïðåêðàñíî ñîõðàíèâøèåñÿ, ãäå çà÷àñòóþ íàõîäÿòñÿ ãîñóäàðñòâåííûå è ÷àñòíûå ó÷ðåæäåíèÿ; æèâîïèñíûå óãîëêè ñ ìîùåíûìè óëî÷êàìè, äâîðèêè ñ çàñòåêë¸ííûìè âåðàíäàìè è áóãåíâèëëèÿìè, íåñóùèìè ÿðêóþ ïå÷àòü îñòðîâíîãî ëàíäøàôòà. Íî åñòü è ïîñòðîéêè, êîòîðûå èñêàæàþò îáùèé âèä. Íàïðèìåð, çàáðîøåííîå çäàíèå «Êñåíèÿ», êîòîðîå â ïîñëåäíèå ãîäû ïîñòåïåííî èñ÷åçàåò, ñäàâøèñü íåóìîëèìîìó õîäó âðåìåíè è íåîáúÿñíèìîìó ìåíòàëèòåòó åãî âëàäåëüöåâ. Òå åñòü ãîñóäàðñòâà….
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ÓÜìïò/ Samos/ Ñàìîñ ôïõò åìðüñïõò, ïé ïðïßïé Ýêôéóáí óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ áñ÷éêÜ ôá ãñáöåßá êáé ôéò áðïèÞêåò ôïõò. ÓéãÜ - óéãÜ ìéá ðüëç ìå áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÝò-ïéêéóôéêÝò äïìÝò Üñ÷éóå íá áíáðôýóóåôáé ãýñù áðü ôï ëéìÜíé. Ôï 1832 ôï Âáèý Ýãéíå ç ðñùôåýïõóá ôïõ íçóéïý. ÊáôÜ ôçí ðåñéÞãçóÞ ôïõ, ï åðéóêÝðôçò óôçí ðüëç óõíáíôÜåé ðáëéÜ êáé íÝá êôßñéá ôá ïðïßá óõíèÝôïõí Ýíá ìÜëëïí éäéüìïñöï áéóèçôéêÜ óýíïëï ðïõ ðñïóäéïñßæåé êáé ôçí ôáõôüôçôá ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò. ÊÜðïéá åðéâëçôéêÜ íåïêëáóéêÜ, êáëïäéáôçñçìÝíá, ðïõ ôá ðåñéóóüôåñá óôåãÜæïõí äçìüóéåò êáé éäéùôéêÝò õðçñåóßåò, áñêåôÝò ãñáöéêÝò ãåéôïíéÝò ìå ðëáêüóôñùôá óïêÜêéá, ìåñéêÝò áõëÝò ìå ëéáêùôÜ êáé ìðïõêáìâßëéåò ðïõ öÝñïõí Ýíôïíá ôçí íçóéþôéêç óöñáãßäá, áëëÜ áí èÝëïõìå íá êõñéïëåêôïýìå êáé êÜðïéåò êáôáóêåõÝò ðïõ «ìðáóôáñäåýïõí» ôçí åéêüíá, üðùò ôï åãêáôáëåëåéììÝíï êôßñéï ôïõ «Îåíßá», åðß ðáñáäåßãìáôé, ðïõ áñãïóâÞíåé ðáñáäïìÝíï óå ìéá áêáôáëáâßóôéêç íïïôñïðßá ôùí äéá÷åéñéóôþí ôïõ ôá ôåëåõôáßá ÷ñüíéá. Ôïõ êñÜôïõò äçëáäÞ…. Óôï Âáèý èá äåßôå êáé ìåñéêÜ áðü ôá óçìáíôéêüôåñá áîéïèÝáôá ôïõ íçóéïý. ÐÝñá áðü ôçí ðëáôåßá ôïõ Ðõèáãüñá ãéá ôçí ïðïßá áíáöÝñèçêá Þäç êáé üðùò åêôéìþ áðïôåëåß êáé ôï óçìåßï óõíÜíôçóçò ôùí íôüðéùí êáôïßêùí, åî´ ïõ êáé ôá ðïëëÜ ìåôáìïíôÝñíá cafe, ðåñéìåôñéêÜ, Ýíá ìïíáäéêü óôïëßäé ôçò ðüëçò, åßíáé ï äçìïôéêüò êÞðïò, öáíôÜæïìáé ôïõò êáëïêáéñéíïýò ìÞíåò èá óöýæåé áðü æùÞ, ôþñá ðïõ ôïí åðéóêÝöôçêá ôï áíáøõêôÞñéï äåí ëåéôïõñãïýóå, ôï ðÜñêï ìïõ Ýâãáæå ìéá ìåëáã÷ïëßá, ðÜíôá üìùò íïéþèù áõôü ôï óõíáßarchitectural -residential structures started to develop round the port. In 1832, Vathi became the capital of the island. When wandering around the city, visitors can see old but also new buildings which make up a rather peculiar and esthetic whole that defines the identity of the area. Some imposing well-kept neoclassical buildings, most of which accommodate private and public services, quite a few picturesque neighborhoods with cobbled alleys, yards with sunny terraces and bougainvilleas, are intense reminders of the insularity, however, if we wish to be accurate, there are some constructions that mess with this picture, such as the abandoned "Xenia Hotel" building which is wearing down, delivered to the mentality of its managers. The State a mentality nobody can really understand… In Vathi you can visit some of the most important sightseeings of the island. Apart from Pythagoras square which i mentioned earlier, and which i believe is also the meeting point for the locals, as a consequence, there are many post-modern cafes, in the perimeter, the municipal garden constitutes a unique jewel of the town and I imagine that during the summer this garden is buzzing with life. I visited the garden in this trip of mine, but the canteen was closed, the park was quite melancholic, however, i always have this feeling when i visit places associated with chil-
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 Âàòè íàõîäÿòñÿ ìíîãèå äîñòîïðèìå÷àòåëüíîñòè îñòðîâà. Êðîìå óæå óïîìÿíóòîé ïëîùàäè èì. Ïèôàãîðà, êîòîðàÿ ÿâëÿåòñÿ ìåñòîì âñòðå÷è ñàìîñöåâ îòñþäà è íàëè÷èå ïî ïåðèìåòðó ïëîùàäè ìíîãèõ ñâåðõñîâðåìåííûõ cafee - óíèêàëüíûì óêðàøåíèåì ãîðîäà ÿâëÿåòñÿ ãîðîäñêîé ñàä, êîòîðûé â ëåòíèå ìåñÿöû ïîëîí æèçíè è ðàäîñòè, à â ýòî âðåìÿ ãîäà çäåøíèé êàôåòåðèé íå ðàáîòàåò, à ïàðê íàâîäèò òîñêó è ìåëàíõîëèþ. Íî ïîäîáíûå ÷óâñòâà âñåãäà îòÿãîùàþò äóøó, åñëè ïîñåòèòåëü íàõîäèòñÿ â ìåñòàõ, êîòîðûå àññîöèèðóþòñÿ ñ ãîëîñàìè è èãðàìè äåòåé. Èçâåñòíî, ÷òî ñàä áûë ñîçäàí â ýïîõó ãåãåìîíèè îñòðîâà Ñàìîñ, à ýòîò ïåðèîä íà÷èíàåòñÿ ñ 1834ã. è äëèòñÿ äî 1912 ãîäà, êîãäà ñàìîññêîå íàöèîíàëüíîå ñîáðàíèå, âîçíèêøåå â ðåçóëüòàòå ðåâîëþöèîííîãî ìåñòíîãî äâèæåíèÿ âî ãëàâå ñ Ôåìèñòîêëîì Ñîôóëè, îáúÿâèëî âîññîåäèíåíèå îñòðîâà ñ Ãðåöèåé.  ïàðêå ñòîèò ïàìÿòíèê ïàâøèì â âîéíàõ 1912-1913 ãã.
óèçìá íá ìå âáñáßíåé, üôáí âñßóêïìáé óå ÷þñïõò ðïõ óõíåéñìéêÜ ôïõò Ý÷ù óõíäÝóåé ìå öùíÝò êáé ðáé÷íßäéá ìéêñþí ðáéäéþí. Ï êÞðïò üðùò ðëçñïöïñÞèçêá äçìéïõñãÞèçêå åðß åðï÷Þò ôçò “çãåìïíßáò ôçò ÓÜìïõ”, êáé áíáôñÝ÷ïíôáò ôçí éóôïñßá ìåôáöÝñù ðùò áõôÞ åßíáé ìéá ðåñßïäïò ðïõ åêôåßíåôáé áðü ôï 1834 ìÝ÷ñé ôï 1912, ïðüôå ç ÓáìéáêÞ åèíïóõíÝëåõóç ðïõ ðñïÞëèå áðü åðáíáóôáôéêü êßíçìá åäþ, õðü ôçí çãåóßá ôïõ ÈåìéóôïêëÞ Óïöïýëç, êÞñõîå ôçí Ýíùóç ôïõ íçóéïý ìå ôçí ÅëëÜäá. Óôï ðÜñêï âñßóêåôáé åðßóçò ôï ìíçìåßï ôùí ðåóüíôùí óôïõò ðïëÝìïõò ôïõ 1912 13. ÊáôÜ ôçí ðáñáìïíÞ óáò óôï Âáèý, ìåôáöÝñïíôáò ôçí ðñïóùðéêÞ ìïõ åìðåéñßá, áîßæåé íá åðéóêåöèåßôå ôç ÄçìïôéêÞ ÐéíáêïèÞêç ðïõ öéëïîåíåß óçìáíôéêÜ Ýñãá íôüðéùí êáé ìç êáëëéôå÷íþí, êáèþò êáé áñêåôÜ óðÜíéá êåéìÞëéá ôçò éóôïñéêÞò ðïñåßáò ôïõ íçóéïý áðü ôï 1821 ùò ôá íåüôåñá ÷ñüíéá. ÏðùóäÞðïôå èá ðñüôåéíá íá åðéóêåöôåßôå ôï Ìçôñïðïëéôéêü ÌÝãáñï, üðïõ óôåãÜæåôáé êáé ôï Âõæáíôéíü ìïõóåßï, åäþ èá èáõìÜóåôå ðÝñá áðü ôï ðïëý ðñïóåãìÝíï ïßêçìá êáé ôá áíåêôßìçôçò áîßáò åêèÝìáôá, âõæáíôéíÝò êáé ìåôáâõæáíôéíÝò åéêüíåò, äéóêïðüôçñá êáé ëåéøáíïèÞêåò, éåñÜ Üìöéá, ÷åéñüãñáöá óå ìåìâñÜíåò êáé Üëëá èñçóêåõôéêÜ êåéìÞëéá. Åðßóçò, óôï Áñ÷áéïëïãéêü ìïõóåßï ôçò ðüëçò ï åðéóêÝðôçò èá äåé ôá åõñÞìáôá ðïõ Ýöåñáí óôï öùò ïé ôåëåõôáßåò áíáóêáöÝò óôï Çñáßïí êáé óôï Ðõèáãüñåéï. Ç ðåñéÞãçóç ìáò, íùñßò ôï áðüãåõìá èá ìáò ïäçãÞóåé óôçí áíáôïëéêÞ ðëåõñÜ ôçò ðüëçò ðïõ âñßóêåôáé ôï ìïíáóôÞñé ôçò «Áãßáò Æþíçò», ôï ïðïßï éäñýèçêå ôï 1695 áðü ôï ìïíá÷ü ÌåëÝôéï. Óþæïíôáé ôïé÷ïãñáößåò ôçò åðï÷Þò, íïìßæù üôé ôï îõëüãëõðôï ôÝìðëï ôïõ Íáïý åßíáé åîáéñåôéêü ðñáãìáôéêÜ. dren's voices and playing. I have been informed that the garden was created at the time of Samos Hegemony which extended from what i read from 1834 to 1912, when the Samian National Assembly originating from the revolutionary movement, under the leadership of Themistoklis Sofoulis, proclaimed the union of the island with Greece. Inside the park there is a monument in the memory of the victims of 1912-1913 wars. During your stay in Vathi, if I may convey my personal experience, it is worthwhile visiting the National Art Gallery which hosts important works of local and non local artists as well as quite a few rare artifacts of the history of the island since 1821 to recent years. I would certainly suggest that you visit the Metropolitan Palace which accommodates the Byzantine Museum. Apart from the very well kept building you will also admire priceless exhibits, byzantine and post-byzantine icons, holy grails and reliquaries, holy vestments, manuscripts in membranes and other religious artifacts. Furthermore you can visit the Archeological Museum in order to see the findings brought to light in the last excavations at Iraion and Pythagorio.
Âî âðåìÿ ïðåáûâàíèÿ â Âàòè, èñõîäÿ èõ ëè÷íîãî îïûòà, ñòîèò ïîñåòèòü Ìóíèöèïàëüíóþ õóäîæåñòâåííóþ ãàëåðåþ, ãäå íàõîäÿòñÿ öåííûå ïðîèçâåäåíèÿ ìåñòíûõ è èíîãîðîäíèõ õóäîæíèêîâ, à òàêæå ìíîãèå ðåäêèå ýêñïîíàòû ñâèäåòåëè èñòîðè÷åñêîãî ïóòè îñòðîâà, íà÷èíàÿ ñ 1821 ãîäà è äî íàøèõ äíåé. Îáÿçàòåëüíî ñëåäóåò ïîñåòèòü çäàíèå Ìèòðîïîëèè, â êîòîðîì íàõîäèòñÿ Âèçàíòèéñêèé ìóçåé. Çäåñü, êðîìå ñàìîã. òùàòåëüíî îòðåñòàâðèðîâàííîãî çäàíèÿ, ñëåäóåò îáðàòèòü âíèìàíèå íà áåñöåííûå ýêñïîíàòû: âèçàíòèéñêèå èêîíû, èêîíû áîëåå ïîçäíåãî ïåðèîäà, ÷àøè è ðåëèêâàðèè, öåðêîâíûå îáëà÷åíèÿ, ðóêîïèñè íà ïåðãàìåíòå è äðóãèå ðåëèãèîçíûå ðåëèêâèè. Êðîìå òîãî, â àðõåîëîãè÷åñêîì ìóçåå ïîñåòèòåëü ïîçíàêîìèòñÿ ñ íàõîäêàìè, óâèäåâøèìè ñâåò ïîñëå íåäàâíèõ ðàñêîïîê â ñåëåíèÿõ Èðåîí è Ïèôàãîðèî.
ÓÜìïò/ Samos/ Ñàìîñ Óå ìéá ðáíÝìïñöç ôþñá ôïðïèåóßá óôá âïñåéïáíáôïëéêÜ ôçò ðüëçò, åßíáé êôéóìÝíï êáé ôï ìïíáóôÞñé ôçò Æùïäü÷ïõ ÐçãÞò ðïõ åéëéêñéíÜ áîßæåé íá ìçí ôï ðñïóðåñÜóåôå, ç êáôáóêåõÞ ôïõ ÷ñïíïëïãåßôáé ðåñßðïõ óôá ìÝóá ôïõ 17ïõ áéþíá. Óôá must ôïõ ìïíáóôçñéïý ìåôáîý ôùí Üëëùí êáé ç ìïíáäéêÞ èÝá ðñïò ôá áðÝíáíôé ÌéêñáóéáôéêÜ ðáñÜëéá. Óå ìéêñÞ áðüóôáóç áðü ôï Âáèý óõíáíôÞóáìå ôéò ðáñáëßåò Ñïäßôóåò êáé ÃÜããïõ, Ýñçìåò âÝâáéá ôïýôç ôçí åðï÷Þ, ðïëýâïõåò äå ôïõò êáëïêáéñéíïýò ìÞíåò, ìå êýñéá ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêÜ ôïõò ôá ðïëý÷ñùìá âüôóáëá êáé ôá ðåíôáêÜèáñá íåñÜ. Ìå áõôïêßíçôï áðü ôï Âáèý èá ðñïóåããßóåôå ìéá óåéñÜ ðïëý îå÷ùñéóôÝò ðáñáëßåò, ìéá ãíùñéìßá ðïõ ìðïñåß íá ãåßñåé ôçí «ðëÜóôéããá» ôï êáëïêáßñé, óôï äßëëçìá ãéá ôïí ðñïãñáììáôéóìü ôùí äéáêïðþí, ãéá ôçí ÓÜìï êáé ôï èåùñþ öõóéïëïãéêüôáôï. Ìðïñåßôå íá ðñïóåããßóåôå ëïéðüí ôéò õðÝñï÷åò ðáñáëßåò ÊÝñâåëç, ôçí ØéëÞ ¢ììï, ôï Ðïóåéäþíéï, ôï ÃáëÜæéï, ôçí ÌõñôéÜ. ¼ðïéá ðáñáëßá êé áí ðñïôéìÞóåôå, üðïéá êáé áí åðéëÝîåôå èá ãïçôåõèåßôå áðü ôçí ïìïñöéÜ ôçò, áðü ôçí êáèáñüôçôá ôùí íåñþí ôçò, áðü ôçí áõèåíôéêüôçôá ôïõ åíáëëáêôéêïý ôïðßïõ. ¸íá ðñáãìáôéêü êïíôñÜóô ðñùôüãíùñùí
Our wandering, early in the afternoon, takes us to the east side of the town where the monastery of Agia Zoni is, it was founded in 1695 by monk Meletios. Many murals of that era are saved there and I do believe that its sculpted wooden temple is truly exquisite. At a beautiful location north-east of the town lies the monastery of Zoodochos Pigi, it is really worth visiting, it is dated mid 17th century, among the "must" of the monastery is the unique view to the Asia Minor coastline. Not far from Vathi, there are the beaches of Roditsa and of Gaggos, desert of course this time of the year, buzzing during the summer months, their main characteristics being the colored pebbles and the crystal clear waters. You can take the car to go from Vathi to a series of very distinct beaches, this could make you decide to spend your summer holidays on this is-
óõíäõáóìþí áðü êÜèå ëïãÞò ç÷ï÷ñùìáôéóìïýò. ÐñïóùðéêÜ ðÜíôùò ðéóôåýù ðùò «üëá ôá ëåöôÜ» åßíáé ç ðáñáëßá ÊÝñâåëç, óå êåñäßæåé áðü ôçí ðñþôç óôéãìÞ ðïõ ôçí áíôéêñßæåéò áðü øçëÜ, óå ôáîéäåýåé áêïýóéá Þ óå ðáñáðÝìðåé óå åéêüíåò ðïõ Ý÷ïõìå óõíçèßóåé íá âëÝðïõìå íá äéáöçìßæïõí ðáñáìõèÝíéåò ðáñáëßåò óå êÜðïéá áôüëç ôïõ Åéñçíéêïý. Ôï âñÜäõ ç ðüëç áëëÜæåé ôï íù÷åëéêü ôçò ðñüóùðï. ÌðéôÜôá ìðáñÜêéá ðïõ ðáßæïõí êÜèå åßäïõò ìïõóéêÞ, êÜðïéïé ÷þñïé ìå Ýíôå÷íá êáé ëáúêÜ, áëëÜ êáé ëßãá áõèåíôéêÜ óêõëÜäéêá, äçìéïõñãïýí ôéò ðñïûðïèÝóåéò ãéá ôçí âñáäéíÞ Ýîïäï. ×ùñßò íá ëåßðïõí âÝâáéá êáé Üëëåò äñáóôçñéüôçôåò, ç íôüðéá êïõëôïýñá åßíáé ðïëý áîéüëïãç, áñêåôÜ èåáôñéêÜ
land when the time comes for you to make plans, this is so normal when it comes to Samos. So, you can visit the magnificent beaches of Kerveli, Psili Ammos, Poseidonio, Galazio and Myrtia. Whichever beach you may prefer or choose, its beauty and crystal clear water as well as the authenticity of the alternate landscape, will seduce you. A true panorama of original contrasts of sounds and colors. However, I personally believe that Kerveli beach is top, it wins you from the very first time you see it from above, it makes you travel in
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Ýêñêóðñèÿ âî âòîðîé ïîëîâèíå äíÿ ïðèâåäåò ïóòåøåñòâåííèêà â âîñòî÷íóþ ÷àñòü ãîðîäà, ãäå íàõîäèòñÿ ìîíàñòûðü «Ñâÿòîãî Ïîÿñà», îñíîâàííûé â 1695 ãîäó ìîíàõîì Ìåëåòèîñîì. Äî íàøèõ äíåé ñîõðàíèëèñü çàìå÷àòåëüíûå ôðåñêè õðàìà, à ðåçíîé èêîíîñòàñ äåéñòâèòåëüíî ïðåêðàñåí è óíèêàëåí.  êðàñèâîì ìåñòå ñåâåðîâîñòî÷íåå îò ãîðîäà ïîñòðîåí è ìîíàñòûðü Æèâîòâîðÿùåãî Èñòî÷íèêà, êîòîðûé íåëüçÿ îáîéòè ñòîðîíîé. Åãî ñòðîèòåëüñòâî äàòèðóåòñÿ ñåðåäèíîé XVII-ãî â å ê à . Ê î ñ î á û ì äîñòîïðèìå÷àòåëüíîñòÿì ìîíàñòûðÿ íàðÿäó ñ äðóãèìè îòíîñèòñÿ óíèêàëüíûé âèä íà ïðîòèâîïîëîæíîå ïîáåðåæüå Ìàëîé Àçèè.  äâóõ øàãàõ îò Âàòè íàõîäÿòñÿ ïðåêðàñíûå íàáåðåæíûå Ðîäèöåñ è Ãàíãó, êîíå÷íî æå, ïóñòûííûå â ýòî âðåìÿ ãîäà, íî ïåðåïîëíåííûå â ëåòíèå ìåñÿöû, à èõ õàðàêòåðíûå îñîáåííîñòè ýòî ðàçíîöâåòíàÿ ãàëüêà è êðèñòàëüíî ÷èñòàÿ âîäà. Íà àâòîìîáèëå èç Âàòè ìîæíî ïðîåõàòü è ïîëþáîâàòüñÿ öåëîé ñåðèåé èñêëþ÷èòåëüíûõ ïëÿæåé. Ýòî ïðèÿòíîå çíàêîìñòâî â ëåòíåå âðåìÿ ìîæåò ñêëîíèòü ÷àøó âåñîâ ïðè ïëàíèðîâàíèè ëåòíåãî îòïóñêà â ïîëüçó îñòðîâà Ñàìîñ, è ýòî àáñîëþòíî åñòåñòâåííî. Òàêèì îáðàçîì, ìîæíî äîñòè÷ü ïðåêðàñíûõ ïëÿæåé ïîñ¸ëêîâ Êåðâåëè, Ïñèëè Àììîñ (ìåëêèé ïåñîê â ïåðåâîäå ñ ãðå÷åñêîãî), Ïîñåéäîíèî, Ãàëàçèî, Ìèðòüÿ. Ëþáîé âûáðàííûé ïëÿæ, íåñîìíåííî, î÷àðóåò ïóòåøåñòâåííèêà êðàñîòîé ïðèðîäû, ÷èñòîòîé âîä, ïåðâîçäàííîñòüþ ëàíäøàôòà. Ýòî íàñòîÿùèé êîíòðàñò íåâèäàííûõ êîìáèíàöèé âñåâîçìîæíûõ çâóêîâ è öâåòîâ. Íî, ñêîðåå âñåãî, ñàìûì çàìå÷àòåëüíûì ìåñòîì ÿâëÿåòñÿ ïëÿæ Êåðâåëè, êîòîðûé ñ ïåðâîãî âçãëÿäà çàâî¸âûâàåò ñåðäöå ëþáîãî ïîñåòèòåëÿ, ïàíîðàìíûé âèä êîòîðîãî çàõâàòûâàåò äóõ, è íåâîëüíî âñïîìèíàþòñÿ âèäû ïðèâû÷íîé ðåêëàìû, ïðåäñòàâëÿþùèå ñêàçî÷íûå ïëÿæè íåêîåãî òèõîîêåàíñêîãî àòîëëà. Âå÷åðîì ãîðîä ìåíÿåò ñâî¸ óòîìë¸ííîå ëèöî. Ïðèáðåæíûå áàðû, ãäå ìîæíî óñëûøàòü ãðîìêóþ ìóçûêó âñåõ ñòèëåé, êëóáû ñ ïîïóëÿðíîé è ôîëüêëîðíîé ìóçûêîé, íî è íåñêîëüêî ïîäëèííûõ, ïîèñòèíå «áëàòíûõ» ìåñòå÷åê, ñîçäàþò ïðåäïîñûëêè äëÿ íî÷íîé ïðîãóëêè. Ìåñòíàÿ êóëüòóðà
ÓÜìïò/ Samos/ Ñàìîñ
ó÷Þìáôá ðáñïõóéÜæïõí ôéò äïõëåéÝò ôïõò. ¸íôõðùóéáêÞ èá Ýëåãá üôé åßíáé ç åéêáóôéêÞ ðáñáêáôáèÞêç ôùí Óáìßùí, ìå åíäéáöÝñïõóåò áðïôõðþóåéò, ðïõ óõ÷íÜ-ðõêíÜ åêôßèåíôáé óå ìéá óåéñÜ ÷þñïõò ðïõ õðÜñ÷ïõí óôï Âáèý, áëëÜ êáé óå üëï ôï íçóß ãåíéêüôåñá. Èá Þèåëá äå ðñéí êëåßóù áõôü ôï êïììÜôé íá áíáöåñèþ óôçí âéâëéïóôÜóç, ðïõ âñßóêåôáé óôïí ðáñáëéáêü äñüìï, ðñüêåéôáé ãéá êÜôé ðïëý ðñùôïðïñéáêü, íïìßæù ôï Ý÷ù îáíáäåß óôçí Ïëëáíäßá, óôï ¢ìóôåñíôáì êáé ìå åíôõðùóßáóå. ÔÝëïò óôéò ôáâÝñíåò ôçò ðüëçò èá Ý÷åôå ôçí åõêáéñßá íá äïêéìÜóåôå ôéò åêëåêôÝò óõíôáãÝò ôçò Óáìéþôéêçò êïõæßíáò, öñåóêüôáôï øÜñé êáé öõóéêÜ ôï öçìéóìÝíï íôüðéï ãëõêü êñáóß. Áí êáé ðñïóùðéêÜ ìå åîéôÜñåé åî´ ßóïõ êáé ôï íôüðéï ïýæï, õðÜñ÷ïõí êÜðïéá áîéüëïãá ìéêñÜ ïéíïðïéßá, ðïõ öôéÜ÷íïõí ðïëý êáëü, ãëõêüðéïôï ïýæï. Èá èåùñïýóá ðáñÜëåéøç, åßíáé áëÞèåéá íá öýãù áðü ôï íçóß, íá öýãù
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your mind and reminds you of places we are used to see in advertisements of magical beaches in some atoll of the Pacific. At night the town loses its relaxed status, small bars playing beat music of every kind, some places prefer Greek folk and popular music but also some original "bouzouki", so many places to chose from for the night out. Certainly, local culture is very remarkable and other activities are held as well: many theatrical troops present their performances and the artifacts of Samians are depicted in an interested way in exhibitions held in Vathi and throughout the island. Before I conclude with this part, I should also mention the book stop on the beach road, this is a pioneering idea originating from The Netherlands, Amsterdam, which has impressed me a great deal. Finally, in the tavernas of Vathi you will have the opportunity to taste the select recipes of Samian cuisine, fresh fish and, of course, the renowned local sweet wine. However, I personally opt for local ouzo and there are some
çàìå÷àòåëüíà, íåìíîãî÷èñëåííûå òåàòðàëüíûå òðóïïû ïîêàçûâàþò ñïåêòàêëè; óäèâèòåëüíî õóäîæåñòâåííîå íàñëåäèå ñàìîñöåâ, ñ èíòåðåñíûìè âïå÷àòëÿþùèìè êàðòèíàìè, êîòîðûå ÷àñòî âûñòàâëÿþòñÿ â âûñòàâî÷íûõ çàëàõ ãîðîäà Âàòè, íî è ïî âñåìó îñòðîâó â öåëîì. Ïðåæäå ÷åì çàâåðøèòü ýòó ÷àñòü ïóòåøåñòâèÿ, õîòåëîñü áû óïîìÿíóòü î êíèæíûõ ñòåëëàæàõ, íàõîäÿùèõñÿ íà íàáåðåæíîé, îòêóäà ëþáîé ìîæåò âçÿòü êíèãó è âåðíóòü å¸ íà ìåñòî. Ýòî ÷òî-òî î÷åíü èííîâàöèîííîå, êàæåòñÿ, ïîäîáíîå èìååò ìåñòî â Íèäåðëàíäàõ, â Àìñòåðäàìå, è ïðîèçâîäèò îãðîìíîå âïå÷àòëåíèå. Íàêîíåö, â òàâåðíàõ ãîðîäà ïóòåøåñòâåííèê èìååò âîçìîæíîñòü ïîïðîáîâàòü èçûñêàííûå ðåöåïòû ñàìîññêîé êóõíè, ñâåæóþ ðûáó è, êîíå÷íî, çíàìåíèòîå ìåñòíîå ñëàäêîå âèíî. Çäåñü íàõîäÿòñÿ çàìå÷àòåëüíûå íåáîëüøèå âèíîäåëüíè, ïðîèçâîäÿùèå âûñîêîêà÷åñòâåííîå óçî (ãðå÷åñêàÿ àíèñîâàÿ âîäêà). Áûëî áû íåñïðàâåäëèâî, ïî ïðàâäå ñêàçàòü, ïîêèíóòü îñòðîâ, óåõàòü èç Âàòè, íå ïîñåòèâ Ìóçåé ñàìîññêîãî âèíà, êîòîðûé íàõîäèòñÿ â ðàéîíå Ìàëàãàðè. Ñòàòóñ è áîãàòûå òðàäèöèè âèíîäåëèÿ âñåãäà ïîëó÷àþò âûñîêóþ îöåíêó ïîñåòèòåëåé. Ïðåæäå âñåãî, ïåðâîå, ÷òî îùóùàåò ïîñåòèòåëü ýòî íå «ìåðòâîå», óòîìèòåëüíîå ïîìåùåíèå ñî ñòàðîìîäíîé ýñòåòèêîé è óñòàðåâøèì ïðîöåññîì ðàáîòû. Ìóçåé Ñàìîññêîãî âèíà, êîòîðûé áûë îòêðûò ëåòîì 2005 ãîäà, ÿâëÿåòñÿ «æèâûì» âèðòóàëüíûì ïîìåùåíèåì èñòîðè÷åñêîé ðåàëüíîñòè äëÿ ñàìîññêîãî âèíà è Ñîþçà Âèíîäåëü÷åñêèõ êîîïåðàòèâîâ îñòðîâà Ñàìîñ. Ïåðâîíà÷àëüíî ýòî áûë ÷àñòíûé âèííûé çàâîä, à ïîçæå ñêëàä è áîíäàðíîå çäàíèå Ñîþçà. Çäàíèå ìóçåÿ ïðåäñòàâëÿåò ñîáîé «æèâîé» ýêñïîíàò, ïîëó÷èâøèé «âëèâàíèå» ñàìîññêîãî ìóñêàòíîãî âèíà è äðóãèõ ìåñòíûõ âèí. Äàæå áîëüøèå äåðåâÿííûå öèñòåðíû, ñåãîäíÿ ýêñïîíàòû ìóçåÿ, êîãäà-òî èñïîëüçîâàëèñü. Ïëàíèðîâêà ìóçåÿ - ðåçóëüòàò ñîâðåìåííîé ìóçåéíîé íàóêè - æèâî è óìåëî ïðîâîäèò ïîñåòèòåëÿ ñêâîçü âðåìÿ, çàâî¸âûâàÿ åãî èíòåðåñ, íî íèñêîëüêî íå óòîìëÿÿ. Òðàäèöèîííîå âèíîäåëèå, îáîðóäîâàíèå, öèñòåðíû è ëàáîðàòîðíûå ïðèáîðû, íî è ñàì ïðîöåññ ñîçäàíèÿ áî÷åê âñå ýòè âèäû äåÿòåëüíîñòè îæèâàþò ïîñðåäñòâîì ýêñïîíàòîâ, êîòîðûå
ÓÜìïò/ Samos/ Ñàìîñ
áðü ôï Âáèý ÷ùñßò íá åðéóêåöôþ ôï ìïõóåßï Óáìéáêïý ïßíïõ ðïõ âñßóêåôáé óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ ÌáëáãÜñé, ïé ïéíéêÝò áíáæçôÞóåéò åßíáé ðÜíôá øçëÜ óôçí ðñïóùðéêÞ äéáâÜèìéóç ôùí åíäéáöåñüíôùí ìïõ. Êáô´ áñ÷Þ ç ðñþôç áßóèçóç åßíáé üôé äåí âñéóêüìáóôå ó Ýíá «íåêñü», êïõñáóôéêü ÷þñï ðáëéïìïäßôéêçò áéóèçôéêÞò êáé ëåéôïõñãßáò. Ôï Ìïõóåßï Óáìéáêïý Ïßíïõ, ðïõ åãêáéíéÜóôçêå ôï êáëïêáßñé ôïõ 2005, åßíáé Ýíáò «æùíôáíüò» ÷þñïò åéêïíéêÞò éóôïñéêÞò ðñáãìáôéêüôçôáò ãéá ôï óáìéáêü êñáóß êáé ôçí ¸íùóç Ïéíïðïéçôéêþí Óõíåôáéñéóìþí ÓÜìïõ. Áñ÷éêÜ éäéùôéêü ïéíïðïéåßï êáé áñãüôåñá áðïèÞêç êáé âáñåëïðïéåßï ôçò ¸íùóçò, ôï êôÞñéï ôïõ ìïõóåßïõ áðïôåëåß «æùíôáíü» Ýêèåìá, üíôáò «ìðïëéáóìÝíï» ìå ôï óáìéáêü Ìïó÷Üôï êáé ôá êñáóéÜ ôïõ. Áêüìá êáé ïé ìåãÜëåò îýëéíåò äåîáìåíÝò, åêèÝìáôá óÞìåñá ôïõ ìïõóåßïõ, Þôáí êÜðïôå ÷ñçóôéêÝò. Ç äéáññýèìéóÞ ôïõ, áðïôÝëåóìá óýã÷ñïíçò ìïõóåéáêÞò åðéóôÞìçò, ôáîéäåýåé ãëáöõñÜ óôï ÷ñüíï, êåñäßæïíôáò, áëëÜ áöÞíïíôáò îåêïýñáóôï ôïí åðéóêÝðôç. Ç ðáñáäïóéáêÞ ïéíïðïßçóç, ôá åñãáëåßá, ïé äåîáìåíÝò êáé ôá üñãáíá ÷çìåßïõ, áëëÜ êáé ç êáôáóêåõÞ âáñåëéþí, æùíôáíåýïõí, ìÝóù åêèåìÜôùí ðïõ öôÜíïõí óå âÜèïò ÷ñüíïõ ôïí áéþíá. ¸ããñáöá, âñáâåßá, öéÜëåò ïßíïõ, öùôïãñáößåò êáé áíôéêåßìåíá ãñáöåßïõ óõìðëçñþ-
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small but significant wineries making very good ouzo. It would be an omission to leave the island, to leave Vathi without visiting the Museum of Samian Wine in Malagari, where wine quests are always high up in the personal hierarchy of interests. Initially, the first impression is that we are not at some «dead», tiring and old fashion place. Samos Wine Museum inaugurated in the summer of 2005, is a «living» site of a virtual historical reality for samian wine and the Union of Winemaking Cooperatives of Samos. Initially a private winery, then a warehouse and a barrel manufacture for the Union, the building accommodating the Museum is a "living" exhibit "grafted" with samian Muscat and its wines. Even the big wooden tanks, currently exhibited in the Museum, were functional at some moment in time. Its configuration, a result of the contemporary museum science, travels visitors n time, seducing them without tiring them. Traditional wine making, its tools, tanks and chemistry equipment but also barrels manufacturing come back to life through these exhibits that took us back to the beginnings of this century. Documents, awards, wine bottles, pictures and office items that complete the puzzle of history. A great source of inspiration is the representation of viticulture in terraced sites (customary on the island), depicting how
äàòèðóþòñÿ ñåðåäèíîé ïðîøëîãî ñòîëåòèÿ. Äîêóìåíòû, ïðèçû, áóòûëêè âèí, ôîòîãðàôèè è êîíòîðñêèå ïðèíàäëåæíîñòè äîïîëíÿþò èñòîðè÷åñêèé ïàççë. Âåðøèíîé âäîõíîâåíèÿ ÿâëÿåòñÿ ïðåäñòàâëåíèå êóëüòèâèðîâàíèÿ âèíîãðàäíîé ëîçû â òåððàñû (êàê ýòî ïðèíÿòî íà îñòðîâå), èëëþñòðèðóþùåå ðîñò è ðàçâèòèå âèíîãðàäà äî ìîìåíòà ñáîðà óðîæàÿ. Çäåñü òàêæå ïðåäñòàâëåíû âèííûå õðàíèëèùà, îäíî áî÷åê, à äðóãîå - áóòûëîê, è îáà îíè äåéñòâóþùèå, ÷òî ïðèäà¸ò åùå áîëüøå æèçíåííîé ñèëû ìóçåþ, ñâÿçûâàÿ åãî ñ íàñòîÿùèì. Êàê èçâåñòíî, â Ìóçåå âèíà ôóíêöèîíèðóåò ñïåöèàëüíî îáîðóäîâàííûé êîíôåðåíöçàë äëÿ íóæä Ñîþçà Âèíîäåëü÷åñêèõ êîîïåðàòèâîâ îñòðîâà Ñàìîñ èëè äðóãèõ îðãàíèçàöèé. Õîòåëîñü áû íàéòè ïîäõîäÿùèé ýïèëîã äëÿ çàâåðøåíèÿ ñòàòüè. Ïóñòü
íïõí ôï éóôïñéêü ðÜæë. Êïñõöáßáò Ýìðíåõóçò åßíáé ç áíáðáñÜóôáóç ôçò êáëëéÝñãåéáò ôùí áìðåëéþí óå ðåæïýëåò (üðùò óõíçèßæåôáé óôï íçóß), ðïõ áðåéêïíßæåé ðùò öõôñþíåé êáé áíáðôýóóåôáé ôï áìðÝëé ìÝ÷ñé ôçí óôéãìÞ ôïõ ôñýãïõ. Äåí ëåßðïõí êáé ïé êÜâåò, ìéá âáñåëéþí êáé ìßá öéáëþí êáé ìÜëéóôá åí ÷ñÞóåé, ðñïóèÝôïíôáò áêüìá ìåãáëýôåñç æùíôÜíéá óôï ÷þñï, óõíäÝïíôÜò ôïí ìå ôï ðáñüí. Óôï Ìïõóåßï Ïßíïõ, üðùò ìáò ðëçñïöüñçóáí ëåéôïõñãåß åîïðëéóìÝíïò óõíåäñéáêüò ÷þñïò, ãéá ÷ñÞóç áðü ôçí ¸íùóç Ïéíïðïéçôéêþí Óõíåôáéñéóìþí ÓÜìïõ Þ Üëëïõò öïñåßò. ØÜ÷íù Ýíáí åðßëïãï ãéá íá êëåßóù ôï Üñèñï. ÁöÞíù ëåýôåñåò åéêüíåò êáé ÷ñùìáôéóìïýò, èÝëù íá áíôéêáôáóôÞóù ôéò ëÝîåéò ìå æùãñáöéÝò ðïõ áðïôõðþèçêáí ìÝóá ó´ áõôü ôï ôñéÞìåñï. Åéíáé ðïëëÝò êáé áôáîéíüìçôåò, ëïãéêü åßíáé íá æçôÞóù ìéá ðáñÜôáóç ãéá íá ãñÜøù ôï öéíÜëå. Êáé ßóùò ÷ñåéáóôåß íá îáíáñèþ. Ðùò èá ìðïñïýóá Üñáãå âéùìáôéêÜ ìÝóá óå ôüóï ëßãï ÷ñüíï íá áíáêáëýøù ðÝñá áðü ôá ðñïöáíÞ, ìéá óåéñÜ êáëïêñõììÝíá ìõóôéêÜ ðïõ áöïñïýí ôïí ôüðï êáé ôïõò áíèñþðïõò ôïõ. ÌõóôéêÜ ðïõ ìüíï ôüôå ìðïñåßò íá ôá ìÜèåéò, íá ìõçèåßò ó áõôÜ, ìüíï ôüôå, üôáí Ýñèåéò êáé îáíÜñèåéò åäþ, ìðïëéáóôåßò ìå ôïí ôüðï êáé ôïõò áíèñþðïõò ôïõ, ãßíåéò Ýíá ìáæß ôïõò. vines are planted and growing till they are harvested. There are also cellars, one with barrels and the other one with bottles, the latter is in use and this makes the place very lively and links it with the present. The Wine Museum also accommodates a conference centre, equipped to serve the Union of Winemaking Cooperatives of Samos or other bodies. I am looking for an epilogue to close this article. I am thinking of pictures and colors, I want to replace words with images engraved in my mind within these three days. They are so many and unclassified…it is only logical that I may need an extension of time to write the finale. I may even need to come back. How would it be possible for me not just to see the obvious but to discover, experientially, a series of well kept secrets about this place and its people, secrets you can only learn if you come here over and over again, when this place and these people become part of you, when you become one with them. ôîòîãðàôèè è öâåòà îñòàíóòñÿ â ñòîðîíå, à ñëîâà çàìåíÿò êàðòèíû, çàïå÷àòë¸ííûå çðèòåëüíûì íåðâîì ïîñåòèòåëÿ çà ýòè òðè äíÿ. Èõ ìíîãî è îíè íàñòîëüêî ðàçðîçíåíû, ÷òî ðàçóìíî ïðîñèòü îá îòñðî÷êå íàïèñàíèÿ ôèíàëà. È, âîçìîæíî, ïðèäåòñÿ ñíîâà âåðíóòüñÿ ñþäà. Êàê æå ìîæíî îïûòíûì ïóò¸ì çà ñòîëü êîðîòêîå âðåìÿ ðàñêðûòü çà ïðåäåëàìè ÿâíîãî ðÿäà õîðîøî ñïðÿòàííûõ òàéí, ñâÿçàííûõ ñ ìåñòîì è åãî íàðîäîì. Òàéí, êîòîðûå ìîæíî óçíàòü òîëüêî òîãäà, ïîó÷èòüñÿ íà íèõ, òîëüêî òîãäà, êîãäà ïðèõîäèøü è âîçâðàùàåøüñÿ ñþäà âíîâü, ñëèâàåøüñÿ âîåäèíî ñ ìåñòîì è åãî ëþäüìè, ñòàíîâèøüñÿ ñ íèìè åäèíûì öåëûì.
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
Ôï Öõóéêü ðÜñêï ôçò Óçôåßáò Sitia Nature Park Ïðèðîäíûé ïàðê Ñèòèè
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
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Ôï “Öõóéêü ÐÜñêï ôçò Óçôåßáò” âñßóêåôáé óôï áíáôïëéêüôåñï Üêñï ôçò ÊñÞôçò, ôçí ðáíÜñ÷áéá ðýëç ôçò áíáôïëÞò. Óå Ýíáí ôüðï ðïõ áðïôÝëåóå áíÝêáèåí óôáõñïäñüìé ðïëéôéóìþí, æùÞò êáé öõóéêþí öáéíïìÝíùí. Ç éóôïñßá áõôÞò ôçò ãçò êõëÜ ãéá ÷éëéÜäåò ÷ñüíéá ðáñÜëëçëá ìå ôçí éóôïñßá ôùí áíèñþðùí ôçò. Êáé áí óõíÞèùò ï ÷ñüíïò ôùí áíèñþðùí áöÞíåé êåíÜ êáé áíåîåñåýíçôá óçìåßá, ï ÷ñüíïò ôçò ãçò óôç Óçôåßá Ý÷åé êáôáãñÜøåé ôá óçìÜäéá ôïõ ìÝ÷ñé ôçí ôåëåõôáßá ëåðôïìÝñåéá ðÜíù ôçò. ÐÜíù óôçí ðÝôñá, ìÝóá óôéò ÷áñÜäñåò, óôá óðÞëáéá êáé óôá ìïíáäéêÜ ôçò öáñÜããéá. Ïé ðïñåßåò ôïõ áíèñþðïõ êáé ôçò Ãçò óôçí áíáôïëéêÞ ÊñÞôç óõìðëÝêïíôáé êáé áëëçëïóõìðëçñþíïíôáé. Ôá óçìÜäéá ôùí áíèñþðùí áðïêáëýðôïíôáé óôéò ðëïýóéåò áñ÷áéïëïãéêÝò áíáêáëýøåéò áëëÜ êáé óôç óçìåñéíÞ, áíüèåõôç áêüìá, æùÞ ôùí êáôïßêùí. Ç Ãç áðïêáëýðôåôáé óå êÜèå Ýíá áðü ôá åêáôïíôÜäåò óçìåßá ãåùëïãéêïý åíäéáöÝñïíôïò ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò. Sitia Nature Park is located at the easternmost edge of Crete, the ancient gate of east to a place which has always been a crossroad of cultures, life and natural phenomena. The history of this land flows in parallel for thousands of years with the history of its people. Though the history of humans has a lot of gaps and unexplored periods, time passing by the land of Sitia has engraved its marks in great depth and detail. On the stones, in the gorges, on the caves and on its unique moonlights. The course of mankind and of the Earth coincide and complete one another in eastern Crete. The abundant archeological discoveries reveal the mark of people and tell us about their life which continuous, as unspoilt, to the present date. The Earth is revealing itself in each and every location of the area presenting some geological interest. Visitors of Sitia Nature Park, nowadays, can discover this parallel course in time, find out about Ïðèðîäíûé ïàðê Ñèòèè ðàñïîëîæåí â ñàìîé âîñòî÷íîé ÷àñòè îñòðîâà Êðèò, èçäðåâíà ïîëó÷èâøåãî ïî ïðàâó íàçâàíèå «âîðîòà íà Âîñòîê», ïîñêîëüêó îíî âñåãäà ñëóæèëî ïåðåêðåñòêîì êóëüòóð, öèâèëèçàöèé è ïðèðîäíûõ ÿâëåíèé. Òûñÿ÷èëåòíÿÿ èñòîðèÿ ýòîé çåìëè òåñíî âçàèìîñâÿçàíà ñ èñòîðèåé å¸ íàðîäà. È õîòÿ íà ëèíåéêå èçìåðÿåìîãî ïî ëþäñêèì ìåðêàì âðåìåíè îñòàþòñÿ ïðîáåëû è íåèçâåäàííûå ìåñòà, êðèòñêàÿ çåìëÿ áåðåæíî õðàíèò ñëåäû ïðîøåäøåãî âðåìåíè, îñòàâøåãî ñâîè îòïå÷àòêè íà êàæäîì êàìíå, îâðàãå, ïåùåðå è óíèêàëüíûõ óùåëüÿõ ýòîé çåìëè. Ñóäüáû ëþäåé è çåìëè â ýòîé âîñòî÷íîé ÷àñòè Êðèòà ïåðåïëåòàþòñÿ è äîïîëíÿþò äðóã äðóãà. Ñëåäû, îñòàâëåííûå ãîäàìè ÷åëîâå÷åñêîãî ïðèñóòñòâèÿ, îáíàðóæèâàþòñÿ íå òîëüêî â áîãàòûõ óíèêàëüíûõ àðõåîëîãè÷åñêèõ íàõîäêàõ, íî è â ñåãîäíÿøíåì åñòåñòâåííîì, åù¸ íåèñêàæåííîì ñîâðåìåííîé öèâèëèçàöèåé, îáðàçå æèçíè æèòåëåé ýòîãî êðàÿ.  êàæäîì èç ñîòåí ìåñò ðåãèîíà, ïðåäñòàâëÿþùèõ ãåîëîãè÷åñêèé èíòåðåñ, ðàñêðûâàåòñÿ êðàñîòà ýòîé Çåìëè. Ïðè ïðîãóëêå ïî äðåâíåéøèì òðîïèíêàì, âïå÷àòëÿþùèì ïåéçàæàì, íåáîëüøèì ìóçåÿì è óíèêàëüíûì ýêîòóðèñòè÷åñêèì ìàðøðóòàì ýòîãî ðåãèîíà, ïåðåä ñîâðåìåííûì ïîñåòèòåëåì ïðèðîäíîãî çàïîâåäíèêà Ñèòèè îòêðûâàåòñÿ
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ ÁõôÞ ôçí ðáñÜëëçëç äéáäñïìÞ ìå ôá óçìåßá ôùí áíèñþðùí êáé ôá óçìåßá ôçò Ãçò, ìðïñåß íá áíáêáëýøåé ï óçìåñéíüò åðéóêÝðôçò ôïõ Öõóéêïý ÐÜñêïõ Óçôåßáò ðåñéäéáâáßíïíôáò ôá ðáíÜñ÷áéá ìïíïðÜôéá, ôá åíôõðùóéáêÜ ôïðßá, ôá ìéêñÜ ìïõóåßá êáé ôéò ìïíáäéêÝò ïéêïôïõñéóôéêÝò äéáäñïìÝò ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò. Èá óõíáíôÞóåé åíôõðùóéáêïýò ó÷çìáôéóìïýò âñÜ÷ùí, áðüôïìá ãêñåìíÜ, êñõììÝíá ïñïðÝäéá, áôÝñìïíá óðÞëáéá, áðÜôçôåò ðáñáëßåò, ãÜñãáñá, ôñå÷ïýìåíá íåñÜ. Èá ìõñßóåé ôá áñþìáôá ôùí èÜìíùí, èá áêïýóåé ôï èñüéóìá ôùí öýëëùí, èá áãíáíôÝøåé ôá óìÞíç ôùí ôáîéäéÜñéêùí ìåôáíáóôåõôéêþí ðïõëéþí êáé èá äñïóéóôåß áðü ôïí áêïýñáóôï Üíåìï ðïõ áãêáëéÜæåé êÜèå óðéèáìÞ áõôïý ôïõ ôüðïõ. Èá áöïõãêñáóôåß êáé èá äéáóêåäÜóåé ìå ôïõò óôùéêïýò êáé öéëüîåíïõò êáôïßêïõò êáé èá ãåõôåß ôá äéáìÜíôéá ôçò ÓåéáêÞò Ãçò. ÁõôÞ ç ðáñèÝíá áêüìá óå ðïëëÜ ìÝñç ôçò. Ãç, ðñïóêáëåß ôïí åðéóêÝðôç óå Ýíá ôáîßäé óôï ÷ñüíï êáé óôï ðáñüí, óå ìéá áíôÜìùóç ìå ôç öýóç êáé ôïí Üíèñùðï, óå ìéá áíáæÞôçóç ôçò ðñáãìáôéêÞò ÊñÞôçò êáé ôùí áîéþí ôçò. Ï åðéóêÝðôçò èá óõíáíôÞóåé óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ ìéá ðëçèþñá åðéëïãþí. Èá ÷áëáñþóåé óôéò ðáíÝìïñöåò ðáñáëßåò êáé ôá ìéêñÜ êïëðÜêéá, èá áêïëïõèÞóåé îåêïýñáóôïõò ðåñéðÜôïõò óôá üìïñöá ðáñÜëéá êáé ôá ìéêñÜ ïñïðÝäéá, èá äïêéìÜóåé ôá üñéá ôïõ óôçí êáôÜäõóç, ôç óðçëáéïëïãßá êáé ôçí áíáññß÷çóç, èá äáìÜóåé the people and the earth wandering around the ancient paths, being amazed at the impressive landscape, admiring the small museums and enjoying the unique eco-tourist routes of the area. They will come across breathtaking rock formations, steep cliffs, hidden plateau, endless caves, virgin beaches, gurgling rushing water. They will smell the perfumes of the bushes, listen to the swishing of the leaves, gaze at the flocks of the emigrating birds and will feel the refreshing breeze which embraces this land. They will hark and enjoy with the stoic and hospitable locals and they will taste the diamonds of the land of Sitia. This land, still virgin in most parts, allows visitors to travel in the past and in the present, meet with nature, seek the true and authentic Crete and its values. Visitors have a plethora of choices in the area. they can relax in the magnificent ïàðàëëåëüíûé ïóòü, ïî êîòîðîìó ìîæíî ïðîñëåäèòü ïðèçíàêè âîçäåéñòâèÿ ñèë ïðèðîäû è ñëåäû, îñòàâëåííûå ãîäàìè ÷åëîâå÷åñêîãî ïðèñóòñòâèÿ. Íà ñâîåì ïóòè ãîñòè ïàðêà âñòðåòÿò âïå÷àòëÿþùèå âîîáðàæåíèå ñêàëüíûå îáðàçîâàíèÿ, êðóòûå ñêàëû, ñêðûòûå ïëàòî, áåñêîíå÷íûå ïåùåðû, íåòðîíóòûå ïëÿæè, óñëûøàò æóð÷àíèå ðó÷üåâ. Îíè ïðî÷óâñòâóþò çàïàõ àðîìàòîâ êóñòîâ, óñëûøàò øåëåñò ëèñòüåâ, ïðèñòàëüíûì âçãëÿäîì áóäóò ïðîâîæàòü áëóæäàþùèå ñòàè ïåðåëåòíûõ ïòèö è áóäóò îñâåæåíû íåóòîìèìûì âåòðîì, îáíèìàþùèì êàæäûé êëî÷îê ýòîé çåìëè. Ãîñòè ýòîãî ðåãèîíà ïîçíàêîìÿòñÿ è ðàçâëåêóòñÿ ñ ãîñòåïðèèìíûìè æèòåëÿìè è âêóñÿò äàðû áëàãîäàòíîé çåìëè Ñèòèè. Ýòà äåâñòâåííàÿ âî ìíîãèõ ìåñòàõ çåìëÿ,
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ôïõò áíÝìïõò ìå wind surf, èá ðåñéçãçèåß ôçí ðáíÜñ÷áéá éóôïñßá ôïõ ôüðïõ óôá ìéíùéêÜ ðáëÜôéá êáé óôïõò áñ÷áéïëïãéêïýò ÷þñïõò, èá ãíùñßóåé ôçí ðáñÜäïóç êáé ôïí ðïëéôéóìü óôá éóôïñéêÜ ìïíáóôÞñéá, óôéò åêêëçóßåò êáé óôá ðáñáäïóéáêÜ ÷ùñéÜ ôçò êáé èá áðïëáýóåé ôá îáêïõóôÜ êáé Üñéóôçò ðïéüôçôáò ôïðéêÜ ðñïúüíôá. Ç áãùíßá ôùí êáôïßêùí ôçò íá ìåßíåé áõôüò ï ôüðïò üóï ôï äõíáôüí áíÝããé÷ôïò, ìðëÝêåé ìå ôçí åðéèõìßá ôïõò íá öéëïîåíÞóïõí êáé íá äåßîïõí óôïí êÜèå åðéóêÝðôç ôï ðëïýôï áõôÞò ôçò Ãçò ðïõ ðñïóöÝñåé ôç ÷áñÜ êáé ôçí áðüëáõóç êáé äéäÜóêåé ôçí áñìïíéêÞ óõíýðáñîç áíèñþðïõ êáé öýóçò ìÝóá áðü ôéò óôÜóåéò æùÞò, ôéò ðáíÜñ÷áéåò ðñáêôéêÝò êáé ôéò ðáñáäüóåéò áéþíùí. www.sitia-geopark.com beaches and the small gulfs, stroll the beautiful coastline and the small plateau, test their strength in scuba diving, speleology and climbing, tame the winds by surfing, learn ancient history in the Minoan palaces and the archeological sites, be acquainted with both the tradition and culture in the historic monasteries, the churches and the traditional villages, and enjoy the most reputable local products which are of excellent quality. The residents of Sitia worry about this place to remain as virgin as possible, but on the other hand, they long to offer hospitality and show visitors the wealth of their land giving joy and merriment, teaching the harmonious coexistence of man and nature through a stance of life, the ancient practices and the century-lasting traditions. www.sitia-geopark.com ïðèãëàøàåò ïîñåòèòåëÿ â ïóòåøåñòâèå âî âðåìåíè, â ïðîøëîì è â íàñòîÿùåì, â âîññîåäèíåíèå ïðèðîäû è ÷åëîâåêà â ïîèñêàõ ðåàëüíîãî, ïîäëèííîãî Êðèòà è åãî öåííîñòÿìè. Âíèìàíèþ ïîñåòèòåëåé ïðåäëàãàåòñÿ áîëüøîé âûáîð ðàçíûõ ðàçâëå÷åíèé. Ãîñòè ðåãèîíà ñìîãóò îòäîõíóòü íà ïðåêðàñíûõ ïëÿæàõ è ìàëåíüêèõ áóõòàõ, ñîâåðøèòü íåòîðîïëèâûå ïðîãóëêè ïî êðàñèâûì íàáåðåæíûì è íåáîëüøèì ïëîñêîãîðüÿì, èñïûòàòü ñâîè ñèëû â äàéâèíãå, ñïåëåîëîãèè è àëüïèíèçìå, óêðîòèòü âåòðû, çàíèìàÿñü âèíñåðôèíãîì, îòïðàâèòüñÿ â ïóòåøåñòâèå ïî äðåâíåéøåé èñòîðèè è êóëüòóðå âî äâîðöàõ Ìèíîéñêîãî ïåðèîäà è àðõåîëîãè÷åñêèõ ìåñòàõ, îçíàêîìèòüñÿ ñ òðàäèöèÿìè è êóëüòóðîé â èñòîðè÷åñêèõ ìîíàñòûðÿõ, öåðêâÿõ è òðàäèöèîííûõ äåðåâíÿõ ýòîãî ðåãèîíà è íàñëàäèòüñÿ çíàìåíèòûìè è íàèëó÷øèìè êà÷åñòâåííûìè ìåñòíûìè ïðîäóêòàìè. Òðåâîãà æèòåëåé Ñèòèè î òîì, ÷òîáû ýòîò ðåãèîí îñòàëñÿ íåòðîíóòûì, ñìåøèâàåòñÿ ñ èõ æåëàíèåì îêàçàòü ðàäóøíîå ãîñòåïðèèìñòâî è ïîêàçàòü êàæäîìó ãîñòþ áîãàòñòâî ýòîé çåìëè, êîòîðàÿ äàðèò ðàäîñòü è íàñëàæäåíèå è ó÷èò ãàðìîíè÷íîìó ñîñóùåñòâîâàíèþ ÷åëîâåêà è ïðèðîäû ïîñðåäñòâîì ÷åëîâå÷åñêèõ îòíîøåíèé è âåêîâûõ òðàäèöèé. www.sitia-geopark.com
Óôç ÌÜíç
In Mani Íà ïîëóîñòðîâå Ìàíè
ÌÜíç/ Mani/ Ìàíè Åßíáé êÜðïéåò öïñÝò ðïõ åíþ Ý÷åéò ó÷çìáôïðïéÞóåé ôá âáóéêÜ ìÝñç åíüò êåéìÝíïõ, áíáêáëýðôåéò ìéá áíáöïñÜ ãé áõôü êÜðïõ áëëïý, ó Ýíá ðåñéïäéêü, ìéá åöçìåñßäá, Ýíá site êáé áõôüìáôá íïéþèåéò üôé ôï õéïèåôåßò áðüëõôá êáé ìÜëëïí åßíáé áäýíáôïí íá ðñïóèÝóåéò êÜôé åðéðëÝïí. ¸íá âéùìáôéêü áöéÝñùìá óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ ôçò ÌÜíçò ðïõ äçìïóßåõóå ðñüóöáôá óôçí éóôïóåëßäá ôçò ç êïñõöáßá áìåñéêÜíéêç åöçìåñßäá, Washington Post, íïìßæù üôé åìðßðôåé óôçí ðáñáðÜíù êáôçãïñßá ó÷åäüí áðüëõôá. ¸íá áöéÝñùìá óôï
Sometimes, having drawn up the basic parts of a text, you discover a relevant reference somewhere else, some magazine or a newspaper, or a site and without thinking you know you absolutely agree and adopt it, and that most probable, it is impossible to add anything else. An experiential journey in the region of Mani, recently published on the American newspaper Washington Post website which falls into the category of texts previously described. Roberto Loiederman narrates his personal travelling experience in Mani, describes
Òàê ÷àñòî ñëó÷àåòñÿ, ÷òî, óæå îêîí÷àòåëüíî ñôîðìèðîâàâ îñíîâíûå ÷àñòè òåêñòà, îáíàðóæèâàåøü â äðóãîì ìåñòå - â æóðíàëå, ãàçåòå, íà ñàéòå - ñòàòüþ íà ýòó æå òåìó, è àâòîìàòè÷åñêè ÷óâñòâóåøü, ÷òî ïîëíîñòüþ ïðèíèìàåøü ýòó èíôîðìàöèþ, è, âåðîÿòíî, ê íåé óæå íåâîçìîæíî íè÷åãî äîáàâèòü. Ïîëíîå ïîäòâåðæäåíèå ýòîìó ÿâëÿåòñÿ ÷èñòî ýìïèðè÷åñêàÿ íåäàâíÿÿ ïóáëèêàöèÿ íà ñàéòå âåäóùåé àìåðèêàíñêîé ãàçåòû «Washington Post».  ýòîì ïîñâÿùåíèè Roberto Loiederman ðàññêàçûâàåò íå òîëüêî î ëè÷íîì îïûòå ïóòåøåñòâèÿ ïî
ïðïßï ï Roberto Loiederman áíáöÝñåé ôçí ðñïóùðéêÞ ôïõ åìðåéñßá áðü ôï ïäïéðïñéêü ôïõ óôçí ÌÜíç, áíáäåéêíýïíôáò ìå ãëáöõñüôçôá ôéò ïìïñöéÝò ôçò ÷þñáò ìáò, áëëÜ êáé ìéá óåéñÜ âéùìáôéêÝò åìðåéñßåò, óôçí êõñéïëåîßá ìáèÞìáôá æùÞò ðïõ ðÞñå. Ïëüêëçñï ôï Üñèñï ôïõ óõíôÜêôçëïéðüí: «Áõôü, ðïõ ðñáãìáôéêÜ åðéèõìïýóáìå üëïé, Þôáí Ýíá åõ÷Üñéóôï ìÝñïò ãéá ìéá ïéêïãåíåéáêÞ, 10Þìåñç áðüäñá-
the beauties of our country in a colorful way and tells the story of experiential lessons learned. Here is the complete article of the editor: «All we wanted, really, was a pleasant place for a 10-day family gathering: my wife and me, her brother and his wife, and my 93-year-old mother-in-law five people connected by blood, marriage and shared history, but usually separated by 10 time zones.
ïîëóîñòðîâó Ìàíè, ÿðêî ïîä÷åðêèâàÿ êðàñîòû íàøåé ñòðàíû, íî è îïèñûâàåò ðÿä ëè÷íûõ ïåðåæèâàíèé, êîòîðûå â áóêâàëüíîì ñìûñëå ñòàëè äëÿ íåãî óðîêàìè æèçíè. Âîò ïîëíûé òåêñò ñòàòüè ðåäàêòîðà: «Âñåì íàì äåéñòâèòåëüíî õîòåëîñü íàéòè ïðèÿòíîå ìåñòî äëÿ ñåìåéíîãî 10äíåâíîãî îòäûõà. Ìîÿ æåíà è ÿ, åå áðàò ñ æåíîé, è ìîÿ 93-ëåòíÿÿ ò¸ùà, òî åñòü, ãðóïïà èç ïÿòè ÷åëîâåê, ñâÿçàííûõ óçàìè êðîâè, áðàêà è îáùåé èñòîðèè».
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ÌÜíç/ Mani/ Ìàíè
óç. Ç ãõíáßêá ìïõ êé åãþ, ï áäåñöüò ôçò êáé ç óýæõãïò ôïõ êáé ç 93 åôþí ðåèåñÜ ìïõ, äçëáäÞ ìéá ðáñÝá ðÝíôå áôüìùí, ðïõ óõíäÝïíôáé ìå äåóìïýò áßìáôïò, ãÜìïõ êáé êïéíÞò éóôïñßáò. Áõôü ðïõ æÞóáìå Þôáí êÜôé ðïëý ðåñéóóüôåñï áðü Ýíá reunion. ÅðåéäÞ ïé óõããåíåßò ôçò ãõíáßêáò ìïõ äåí Þèåëáí íá ôáîéäÝøïõí ìáêñéÜ áðü ôï óðßôé ôïõò óôï ÉóñáÞë, áðïöáóßóáìå íá óõãêåíôñùèïýìå üëïé óôçí ÅëëÜäá. Áöïý Ýøáîá óå ôáîéäéùôéêÝò éóôïóåëßäåò, âñÞêá Ýíá êáôÜëëçëï óðßôé óôçí ÌÜíç ôçò ÐåëïðïííÞóïõ, üðïõ êáíåßò áðü åìÜò äåí åß÷å ðÜåé ðïôÝ. Óýìöùíá ìå ôçí éóôïóåëßäá, ôï óðßôé Þôáí óå Ýíá ìç ôïõñéóôéêü ÷ùñéü, áñêåôÜ ÷éëéüìåôñá ðÜíù áðü ôçí áêôÞ, ïðüôå èá ÷ñåéáæüìáóôáí áõôïêßíçôï ãéá íá ðÜìå óôçí ðáñáëßá, óå Ýíá åóôéáôüñéï Þ ãéá íá âñïýìå ôï êïíôéíüôåñï ÁÔÌ. ÈÝëáìå ðñáãìáôéêÜ íá ôï êÜíïõìå áõôü; Ç ãõíáßêá ìïõ, ç ÌðÝôõ, åß÷å Üëëåò áíçóõ÷ßåò. ÄåäïìÝíùí ôùí ïéêïíïìéêþí ðñïâëçìÜôùí óôçí ÅëëÜäá, áíáñùôéüôáí ðùò èá Þôáí ôá ðñÜãìáôá óå Ýíá ìéêñü ÷ùñéü. Èá õðÞñ÷áí ïé óôïé÷åéþäåéò õðçñåóßåò; ÌåôÜ áðü Ýíá êáèçóõ÷áóôéêü, çëåêôñïíéêü äéÜëïãï ìå ôïõò éäéïêôÞôåò, íïéêéÜóáìå ôï óðßôé. ÓõíáíôçèÞêáìå ìå ôïõò óõããåíåßò óôï áåñïäñüìéï ôçò ÁèÞíáò, óôç óõíÝ÷åéá ïäçãÞóáìå ôï íïéêéáóìÝíï ìáò áõôïêßíçôï äéáó÷ßæïíôáò ôçí Ðåëïðüííçóï, ðñïò ôçí ÊáëáìÜôá, üðïõ, íáé, öÜãáìå åîáéñåôéêÝò åëéÝò. Áðü åêåß ðÞñáìå ôï öéäùôü äñüìï, äýï ëùñßäùí, ðñïò ôï íüôï, ìå ôï Ìåóóçíéáêü êüëðï óôá äåîéÜ ìáò êáé ôïí Ôáàãåôï óôá áñéóôåñÜ ìáò.
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What we got was much more than a reunion. Because my in-laws didn't want to travel far from their home in Israel, we decided to gather in Greece. I pored over Web sites and found an appropriate house on the Peloponnese's Mani Peninsula, where none of us had ever been. According to the Web page, the house was in a non-touristy village, several miles uphill from the coast, so we'd need a car to go to the beach or a restaurant, or to find an ATM. Did we really want to do that? My wife, Betty, had other concerns: Given Greece's economic woes, what would it be like in a small village? Would basic services be disrupted? After some comforting input from the owners, we rented the house. We rendezvoused with my in-laws at the Athens airport, then drove our stick-shift rental car across the Peloponnese to Kalamata (where, yes, we ate excellent olives). From there we took a winding two-lane road south, with the Messenian Gulf to the right, the Taygetus Mountains to the left. It's a breathtaking intro to the Mani, a hardscrabble peninsula that juts downward toward the Mediterranean like a tough, scraggly witch's finger. An hour later, at Stoupa, a beach town awash in northern Europeans, we called Deborah, an Irishwoman who manages the rental house. Blond, wiry Deborah arrived on a threewheeled putt-putt vehicle. She said that she'd lived in the Mani for years and had
Òî, ÷òî ìû ïåðåæèëè, áûëî íå÷òî áîëüøåå, ÷åì âîññîåäèíåíèå. Ïîñêîëüêó ðîäñòâåííèêè ìîåé æåíû íå õîòåëè ïóòåøåñòâîâàòü äàëåêî îò èõ äîìà â Èçðàèëå, áûëî ïðèíÿòî ðåøåíèå ñîáðàòüñÿ âñåì â Ãðåöèè. Ïîñëå äëèòåëüíîãî ïîèñêà íà òóðèñòè÷åñêèõ ñàéòàõ, ÿ íàøåë ïîäõîäÿùèé äîì íà ïîëóîñòðîâå Ìàíè, íà Ïåëîïîííåñå, ãäå íè îäèí èç íàñ íèêîãäà ðàíåå íå áûë. Ñîãëàñíî äàííûì ñàéòà äîì íàõîäèëñÿ ñîâñåì íå â òóðèñòè÷åñêîé ìåñòíîñòè â íåñêîëüêèõ êèëîìåòðàõ îò ìîðñêîãî ïîáåðåæüÿ, ïîýòîìó, ÷òîáû ïîåõàòü íà ïëÿæ, â ðåñòîðàí èëè íàéòè áëèæàéøèé áàíêîìàò, íàì áû ïîíàäîáèëñÿ àâòîìîáèëü. Õîòåëè ëè ìû òàê ïîñòóïèòü â äåéñòâèòåëüíîñòè? Ìîÿ æåíà, Áåòòè, âîëíîâàëàñü ïî äðóãîìó ïîâîäó. Ó÷èòûâàÿ ýêîíîìè÷åñêèå ïðîáëåìû â Ãðåöèè, åé áûëî èíòåðåñíî, êàê âñå áóäåò îáñòîÿòü â íåáîëüøîé äåðåâåíüêå. Áóäóò ëè òàì ñàìûå íåîáõîäèìûå âèäû óñëóã? Íî âñ¸ æå ïîñëå ìíîãîîáåùàþùåãî âèðòóàëüíîãî äèàëîãà ñ âëàäåëüöàìè ìû àðåíäîâàëè äîì. Ìû âñòðåòèëèñü ñ ðîäñòâåííèêàìè â àýðîïîðòó ã. Àôèí, à çàòåì íà àðåíäîâàííîì àâòîìîáèëå ÷åðåç âåñü ïîëóîñòðîâ Ïåëîïîííåñ íàïðàâèëèñü â ãîðîä Êàëàìàòà, ãäå ïîïðîáîâàëè îòëè÷íûå ìàñëèíû. Îòòóäà íàø ïóòü ëåæàë ïî èçâèëèñòîé äîðîãå íà þã, ñïðàâà ïðîñòèðàëñÿ Ìåññèíèéñêèé çàëèâ, à ñëåâà âîçâûøàëàñü ãîðà Òàéãåòîñ. Ýòî çàõâàòûâàþùèé äóõ âúåçä íà ïîëóîñòðîâ Ìàíè, ïîëóîñòðîâ, êîòîðûé ñèëüíî âûïèðàåò íàâñòðå÷ó âîäàì Ñðåäèçåìíîãî ìîðÿ, íàïîìèíàÿ ñòðîãèé èçîãíóòûé ïàëåö âåäüìû. ×åðåç ÷àñ â ïîñ¸ëêå Ñòóïà, ïðèáðåæíîì ñåëåíèè, íàâîäíåííîì ñåâåðîåâðîïåéñêèìè òóðèñòàìè, ìû ïîçâîíèëè Äåáîðå, èðëàíäêå, êîòîðàÿ àðåíäîâàëà äîì. Íåðâîçíàÿ áëîíäèíêà Äåáîðà ïðèì÷àëàñü íà òðåõêîë¸ñíîì òðàíñïîðòíîì ñðåäñòâå. Îíà ñîîáùèëà íàì, ÷òî ïðîæèâàåò íà ïîëóîñòðîâå â òå÷åíèå ìíîãèõ ëåò, è çäåñü æå ðîäèëà äåòåé. Êðîìå àðåíäû íåäâèæèìîñòè îíà çàíèìàåòñÿ àðåíäîé ëîøàäåé, êîòîðûõ ïðèâåçëà èç Èðëàíäèè, è äà¸ò óðîêè âåðõîâîé åçäû. Îíà ñ ðàäîñòüþ ñîîáùèëà íàì, ÷òî â å¸ ñîáñòâåííîì äîìå â ñîñåäíåì ñåëå íåò ýëåêòðè÷åñòâà è âîäû. Ìû ñëåäîâàëè çà Äåáîðîé äî ñåëåíèÿ Íåîõîðè. Êîãäà ìû ïîäúåõàëè ê äåðåâíå, âìåñòî òîãî, ÷òîáû ïðîäîëæàòü åõàòü ïî çèãçàãîîáðàçíîé äîðîãå, Äåáîðà ïðåäïî÷ëà ïîäíÿòüñÿ ââåðõ ïî êðóòîìó õîëìó. Àâòîìîáèëü ñäåëàë íåñêîëüêî ìàíåâðîâ, ìíå ïðèøëîñü èñïîëüçîâàòü ðó÷íîé òîðìîç è ÷àñòî ïåðåêëþ÷àòü ñêîðîñòü, à Áåòòè ðÿäîì ñî ìíîé òîëüêî è îõàëà îò ñòðàõà.  ïîñ¸ëêå Íåîõîðè óëèöû íå íàìíîãî áîëüøå ðàçìåðîâ
ÌÜíç/ Mani/ Ìàíè Åßíáé ìéá óõíáñðáóôéêÞ åßóïäïò óôç ÌÜíç, ìéá ÷åñóüíçóï, ðïõ åîÝ÷åé ðñïò ôç Ìåóüãåéï, èõìßæïíôáò ôï óêëçñü, êõñôü äÜ÷ôõëï ìéáò ìÜãéóóáò. Ìéá þñá áñãüôåñá, óôç Óôïýðá, ìéá ðáñáëéáêÞ ðüëç ðïõ êáôáêëýæåôáé áðü Âïñåéïåõñùðáßïõò, ðÞñáìå ôçëÝöùíï ôçí ÍôÝìðïñá, ìéá ÉñëáíäÝæá ðïõ äéá÷åéñßæåôáé ôï åíïéêéáæüìåíï óðßôé. Ç îáíèéÜ, íåõñéêÞ ÍôÝìðïñá Ýöôáóå ìå Ýíá ôñßôñï÷ï ü÷çìá. Ìáò åßðå üôé åß÷å æÞóåé óôç ÌÜíç ãéá ÷ñüíéá êáé åß÷å ãåííÞóåé ôá ðáéäéÜ ôçò åêåß. Åêôüò áðü ôç åíïéêßáóç áêéíÞôùí, íïéêéÜæåé Üëïãá, ðïõ Ý÷åé öÝñåé áðü ôçí Éñëáíäßá êáé ðñïóöÝñåé ìáèÞìáôá éððáóßáò. Ìå ÷áñÜ ìáò áíÝöåñå üôé ôï äéêü ôçò óðßôé, óå Ýíá ãåéôïíéêü ÷ùñéü, äåí Ý÷åé çëåêôñéêü ñåýìá êáé íåñü. ÁêïëïõèÞóáìå ôç ÍôÝìðïñá ìÝ÷ñé ôï Íåï÷þñé. Êáèþò ðëçóéÜæáìå ôï ÷ùñéü, áíôß íá óõíå÷ßóåé óôï ãåìÜôï æéãê-æáãê äñüìï, åðÝëåîå íá áíÝâåé ìéá áðüôïìç áíçöüñá. Ôï ü÷çìá ôçò Ýêáíå äéÜöïñïõò åëéãìïýò, áíáãêÜæïíôÜò ìå íá ÷ñçóéìïðïéþ ôï ÷åéñüöñåíï êáé íá áëëÜæù óõ÷íÜ ôá÷ýôçôá, ìå ôçí ÌðÝôõ äßðëá ìïõ íá ëá÷áíéÜæåé áðü áãùíßá.
brought up her children there. Besides managing properties, she rents horses that she brought over from Ireland (!) and offers riding lessons. She cheerily mentioned that her own house, in a nearby village, has no electricity or running water. We followed Deborah up to Neohori. As we approached the village, instead of continuing on the zigzag road, she chose to hazard a steep uphill. Her scooter stalled, forcing me to fumble with tire-screeching, hand-brake, manual-shift maneuvers, punctuated by Betty's gasps.In Neohori, the alleyways were a hair wider than the car. With relieved sighs all around, we arrived unscratched
Óôï Íåï÷þñé, ôá óïêÜêéá äåí åßíáé ðïëý ìåãáëýôåñá áðü Ýíá áõôïêßíçôï. ÁíáêïõöéóìÝíïé, öôÜóáìå óôïí ðñïïñéóìü ìáò áíÝðáöïé. Ôï Íåï÷þñé, áðü üóï ìðïñïýóáìå íá äïýìå, Þôáí êáèáñü êáé Þóõ÷ï. ºäéï ìå ôçí áðåéêüíéóç óôçí éóôïóåëßäá, ôï åíïéêéáæüìåíï Þôáí Ýíá ðÝôñéíï óðßôé, ðëÞñùò áíáêáéíéóìÝíï, ìå óýã÷ñïíï åóùôåñéêü, ìå ðïëëÝò óõóêåõÝò åîïéêïíüìçóçò åíÝñãåéáò êáé æåóôÝò ðéíåëéÝò. Ñþôçóá ôç ÍôÝìðïñá ãéá ôçí áóöÜëåéá. "Ìçí áíçóõ÷åßôå ãéá áõôü", ìïõ åßðå êëåßíïíôáò ìïõ ôï ìÜôé. "ÕðÜñ÷ïõí öñïõñïß, ðïõ ðñïóôáôåýïõí ôï óðßôé. Èá äåßôå." ÌåôÜ ôçí åãêáôÜóôáóç ìáò, óõãêåíôñùèÞêáìå óôï åðÜíù áßèñéï, ðïõ åß÷å èÝá óôïí êüëðï êáé ôá âïõíÜ. ¹ðéáìå ôóÜé, áðïëáìâÜíïíôáò ôï ëÜëçìá ôùí ðåôåéíþí, ôïí ìïíáäéêü Þ÷ï óôï ÷ùñéü. ÓôáäéáêÜ, áñ÷ßóáìå íá áêïýìå êáé Ýíáí áêüìá Þ÷ï: ÖùíÝò. ¸îé ãõíáßêåò, äéáöüñùí çëéêéþí åß÷áí åãêáôáóôáèåß Ýîù áðü ôçí ðüñôá ìáò, ìéëþíôáò äõíáôÜ. Ìáò äéþ÷íïõí áðü ôï ÷ùñéü; Áíáôñé÷éáóôéêÝò óêçíÝò áðü ôï "ÆïñìðÜò ï ¸ëëçíáò " Ýëáìøáí óôï ìõáëü ìïõ. ¼ðùò áðïäåß÷èçêå, ïé ãõíáßêåò óõãêåíôñþíïíôáé åêåß êÜèå áðüãåõìá ãéá íá êáèáñßóïõí ôá ëá÷áíéêÜ ôïõò êáé íá êïõâåíôéÜóïõí. Ç ìåãáëýôåñç, íôõìÝíç "Åëëçíßäá ×Þñá" êáèÜñéæå Üíèç êïëïêõèéïý.
Neohori, as far as we could see, was clean and quiet. True to the depiction on the Web site, the rental was a stone house that had been completely redone and was modern inside, with lots of laborsaving machinery and homey touches. I asked Deborah about theft and security. “Don't worry about that,” she winked. “A squadron of guards protects this house. You'll see.” After settling in, we gathered on the upper patio, which has a view of the gulf and the mountains. We sipped tea, enjoying the roosters' crowing, the only sound in the village. Gradually, we became aware of another sound: voices. Six women of various ages had installed themselves outside our front door and were talking loudly. Were we being routed out of the village? Gruesome scenes from “Zorba the Greek” flashed through my mind.
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àâòîìîáèëÿ. Áåç ìàòåðèàëüíûõ è ìîðàëüíûõ ïîòåðü ìû ñ îáëåã÷åíèåì ïðèáûëè â ïóíêò íàçíà÷åíèÿ. Ïîñ¸ëîê Íåîõîðè âñòðåòèë íàñ òèøèíîé è ÷èñòîòîé. Àðåíäóåìûé êàìåííûé äîì îêàçàëñÿ òàêèì æå, êàê è èçîáðàæ¸ííûé íà ñàéòå, îí áûë ïîëíîñòüþ îòðåìîíòèðîâàí, à ñîâðåìåííûé èíòåðüåð áûë âûïîëíåí â òåïëûõ òîíàõ ñ íàëè÷èåì ìíîæåñòâà ýíåðãîñáåðåãàþùèõ ïðèáîðîâ. ß ñïðîñèë Äåáîðó î áåçîïàñíîñòè ìåñòà. «Îá ýòîì äàæå íå áåñïîêîéòåñü, ïîäìèãíóâ, îòâåòèëà îíà ìíå, Åñòü ñòðàæè, êîòîðûå îáåðåãàþò äîì. Ñàìè óâèäèòå». Êàê òîëüêî çàâåðøèëîñü ðàçìåùåíèå ïî êîìíàòàì, ìû ñîáðàëèñü íà âåðõíåé òåððàñå, ñ êîòîðîé îòêðûâàëñÿ âèä íà çàëèâ è ãîðû. Ìû âûïèëè ÷àþ, íàñëàæäàÿñü ïåíèåì ïåòóõîâ, ïîæàëóé, åäèíñòâåííûì çâóêîì, íàðóøàþùèì òèøèíó äåðåâíè. Ïîñòåïåííî äî íàøåãî ñëóõà ñòàë äîõîäèòü åù¸ îäèí çâóê: ãîëîñà. Øåñòü æåíùèí ðàçíûõ âîçðàñòîâ ñòîÿëè ó äâåðåé äîìà, ãðîìêî ðàçãîâàðèâàÿ. Ýòî ÷òî æå òàêîå? Íàñ ãîíÿò èç äåðåâíè? Æóòêèå ñöåíû èç õóäîæåñòâåííîãî ôèëüìà "Ãðåê Çîðáà" âñïëûëè ó ìåíÿ â ïàìÿòè. Êàê âûÿñíèëîñü, æåíùèíû èìåëè îáûêíîâåíèå ñîáèðàòüñÿ òàì êàæäûé äåíü, ÷òîáû çà ÷èñòêîé îâîùåé îäíîâðåìåííî ïîîáùàòüñÿ è ïðîñòî ïîñïëåòíè÷àòü. Ñàìàÿ ñòàðøàÿ èç íèõ, îäåòàÿ êàê «ãðå÷åñêàÿ âäîâà», ÷èñòèëà öâåòêè êàáà÷êà.
ÌÜíç/ Mani/ Ìàíè Áõôïß Þôáí ëïéðüí ïé öñïõñïß; Ôïõò åßðá êáëçìÝñá êáé óôç óõíÝ÷åéá äéüñèùóá ôïí åáõôü ìïõ, êáëçóðÝñá. Ïé ãõíáßêåò, ðñïöáíþò èÝëïíôáò íá óõíäåèïýí ìáæß ìáò, áðÜíôçóáí ìå ÷áìüãåëá êáé Ýíá êýìá åñùôÞóåùí. Äõóôõ÷þò, åß÷á åîáíôëÞóåé ôéò ãíþóåéò ìïõ ôçò åëëçíéêÞò, Ýôóé ÷áìïãÝëáóá âëáêùäþò êáé áíáóÞêùóá ôïõò þìïõò. ÌïíïðÜôéá êáé ôáâÝñíåò. Ðñéí áðü ôï ôáîßäé, åß÷á äéáâÜóåé ôï âéâëßï ôïõ ÐÜôñéê Ëé ÖÝñìïñ "ÌÜíç: Ôáîßäéá óôç Íüôéá Ðåëïðüííçóï". ¸íá ëõñéêü ðïñôñÝôï ôùí êáôïßêùí ôçò ÌÜíçò, ïé ïðïßïé, óýìöùíá ìå ôï óõããñáöÝá, åðÝæçóáí ÷Üñç óôï èÜññïò, ôçí åöåõñåôéêüôçôá êáé ôçí Üãñéá áíåîáñôçóßá ôïõò. ¸÷ïõí áðùèÞóåé åéóâïëåßò, êáôÜöåñáí íá åîáóöáëßóïõí ôá ðñïò ôï æçí áðü ìéá Üãñéá ãç êáé äéáôÞñçóáí ôï êáëü ôïõò ÷éïýìïñ. Ôçí åðüìåíç ìÝñá, åìðíåõóìÝíïò áðü ôïí áôñüìçôï ÖÝñìïñ, îýðíçóá ôçí áõãÞ êáé ðåñðÜôçóá ìüíïò êáôÜ ìÞêïò åíüò óôåíïý ìïíïðáôéïý, óôñùìÝíïõ ìå åðßðåäåò ðÝôñåò óå ðåñßåñãá ìåãÝèç. ÌÝñïò ôçò äéáäñïìÞò áðü ôï Íåï÷þñé ìÝ÷ñé ôï ãåéôïíéêü ÷ùñéü Þôáí ÷ïñôáñéáóìÝíç, áêáíèþäçò êáé êáôÜöõôç. Ç ìõñùäéÜ ôïõ öáóêüìçëïõ Þôáí äéÜ÷õôç êáé êõêëÜìéíá öýôñùíáí áíÜìåóá óôá âñÜ÷éá. Øçëüôåñá, ç äéáäñïìÞ ðåñíïýóå äßðëá áðü åëáéþíåò. ¼ëá áõôÜ åß÷áí ìéá óêëçñÞ, Ýíôïíç ïìïñöéÜ. ×ñåéÜóôçêå ìéá þñá
Òàê âîò êòî áûëè òàê íàçûâàåìûå «ñòðàæè ïîðÿäêà»? ß ïîïðèâåòñòâîâàë èõ: «Äîáðûé äåíü», íî ñàì æå èñïðàâèëñÿ: «Äîáðûé âå÷åð». À æåíùèíû, î÷åâèäíî, æåëàÿ ïîáëèæå ïîçíàêîìèòüñÿ ñ íàìè, îòâå÷àëè óëûáêàìè è ïðîñòî çàñûïàëè íàñ âîïðîñàìè. Ê ñîæàëåíèþ, ìîè çíàíèÿ ãðå÷åñêîãî áûëè èñ÷åðïàíû, ïîýòîìó ÿ òóïî óëûáíóëñÿ è ïîæàë ïëå÷àìè. Òðîïû è òàâåðíû Ïåðåä ïîåçäêîé ÿ ïðî÷èòàë êíèãó Ïàòðèêà Ëè Ôåðìîð «Ìàíè: ïóòåøåñòâèÿ ïî þæíîìó Ïåëîïîííåñó» - ëèðè÷åñêèé ïîðòðåò æèòåëåé ïîëóîñòðîâà Ìàíè, êîòîðûå, ïî ìíåíèþ àâòîðà, âûæèëè áëàãîäàðÿ ìóæåñòâó, èçîáðåòàòåëüíîñòè è âðîæä¸ííîé íåçàâèñèìîñòè è ãîðäîñòè. Îíè äàëè îòïîð çàõâàò÷èêàì, îáåñïå÷èëè ñåáå ñðåäñòâà ê ñóùåñòâîâàíèþ íà äèêîé çåìëå è ñîõðàíèëè ïðåêðàñíîå ÷óâñòâî þìîðà.
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As it turned out, the women gathered there every afternoon to trim vegetables and chat. The oldest, dressed in Greek-widow black, cleaned zucchini blossoms. Ah so this was the “squadron of guards”! I wished them kalimera (good morning), then corrected myself: kalispera (good afternoon). The women, apparently wanting to connect with us, answered with smiles and a volley of questions. Unfortunately, I'd exhausted my knowledge of Greek, so I smiled stupidly and shrugged. Trails and tavernas Before the trip, I'd read Patrick Leigh Fermor's 1950s book, “Mani: Travels in the Southern Peloponnese,” a lyrical, learned, loving portrait of the Maniots, who, the author writes, have survived on courage, resourcefulness and fierce independence. They've repelled invaders, coaxed a living out of a harsh landscape and somehow maintained their good humor. The next day, inspired by the intrepid Fermor, I got up at dawn and hiked alone along a “donkey trail” a narrow path paved with flattened stones of odd sizes. Part of the trail from Neohori up to the neighboring village was weedy, thorny and overgrown. The smell of wild sage was all around, and cyclamen sprouted between the rocks
ãéá íá ðåñðáôÞóù ìÝ÷ñé ôçí ÊáóôÜíéá. ÊïíôÜ óôçí ðëáôåßá ôïõ ÷ùñéïý, ìéá ãõíáßêá, ðïõ óôåêüôáí ìðñïóôÜ óå Ýíáí ðÝôñéíï ôïß÷ï, ìÜæåõå óýêá áðü Ýíá äÝíôñï ðïõ Þôáí äßðëá óå Ýíá óðßôé êáé Ýìïéáæå åãêáôáëåëåéììÝíï. Óôçí ðëáôåßá, ìéá ïìÜäá áíäñþí êáèüôáí Ýîù áðü äõï ôáâÝñíåò, ìéëþíôáò êáé ðßíïíôáò ñåôóßíá Þ êáöÝ. ÐåñéãñÜöïíôáò ìéá ðáñüìïéá óêçíÞ ôç äåêáåôßá ôïõ 1950, ï ÖÝñìïñ Ýãñáøå üôé ïé êÜôïéêïé ðïõ óõíÜíôçóå óôéò ôáâÝñíåò áðÝöåõãáí íá ìéëïýí ãéá ôçí ðïëéôéêÞ êáé áíô' áõôïý ìéëïýóáí ãéá íáõÜãéá, ãéá ôï Ëüñäï Âýñùíá, ôçí ðôþóç ôïõ Âõæáíôßïõ, ôç ìåôáíÜóôåõóç ôùí ðïõëéþí Þ ôá êáêÜ ôïõ íá êáðíßæåéò ÷áóßò. Ïé Üíäñåò óôéò ôáâÝñíåò óôçí ÊáóôÜíéá, Þôáí áõôïß ðïõ ìéëïýí ãéá ÷áóßò êáé íáõÜãéá Þ áõôïß ðïõ ìéëïýí ãéá ôçí ðéèáíÞ âýèéóç ôïõ "ðëïßïõ" ôçò åëëçíéêÞò ïéêïíïìßáò; ÁõôÜ ðïõ Ýëåãáí ïé ÷ùñéêïß Þôáí áêáôáíüçôá ãéá ìÝíá, áëëÜ óôç ÌÜíç äåí åßäá êáíÝíá óçìÜäé áðü áíèñþðïõò, ðïõ áíáëþíïíôáé ìå ôçí ïéêïíïìßá. ÌáêñéÜ áðü ôá êÝíôñá åîïõóßáò ôçò ÅëëÜäáò, ç êáèçìåñéíÞ æùÞ óôá ÷ùñéÜ áõôÜ öáéíüôáí ÷ùñßò âéáóýíåò êáé Ýííïéåò. Óå êÜèå ÷ùñéü, ó÷åäüí üëç ç äéáèÝóéìç ãç ÷ñçóéìïðïéåßôáé ãéá ôçí ðáñáãùãÞ ôñïößìùí. Óôçí êÜèå ðßóù áõëÞ êáëëéåñãïýóáí êïëïêõèÜêéá Þ ðåðüíéá, áìðÝëéá, ïðùñïöüñá äÝíôñá, åëéÝò, ëá÷áíéêÜ êáé ðïëý óõ÷íÜ åß÷áí êüôåò.
Íà ñëåäóþùèé äåíü, âäîõíîâëåííûé áåññòðàøíûì Ôåðìîðîì, ÿ ïðîñíóëñÿ íà ðàññâåòå, è â îäèíî÷åñòâå ïðîãóëÿëñÿ ïî óçêîé òðîïèíêå, ìîùåííîé ïëîñêèìè êàìíÿìè ðàçíûõ ðàçìåðîâ. Îòðåçîê ìåñòíîñòè ìàðøðóòà îò ïîñ. Íåîõîðè äî ñîñåäíåé äåðåâíè ïîðîñ òðàâîé è áûë ïîêðûò êîëþ÷èì êóñòàðíèêîì. Âñþäó ïàõëî øàëôååì, à ñðåäè ñêàë âèäíåëèñü öâåòû äèêîãî öèêëàìåíà. Ïî ìåðå ïîäú¸ìà â ãîðó òðîïà ïðîõîäèëà ÷åðåç îëèâêîâûå ðîùè. Âåñü ïåéçàæ îòëè÷àëñÿ ïåðâîçäàííîé è ÿðêîé êðàñîòîé. Çà îäèí ÷àñ ÿ äîø¸ë äî ïîñ. Êàñòàíèÿ. Íåäàëåêî îò äåðåâåíñêîé ïëîùàäè æåíùèíà, ñòîÿâøàÿ ó êàìåííîé ñòåíû, ñîáèðàëà èíæèð ñ äåðåâà, êîòîðîå ðîñëî ðÿäîì ñ çàáðîøåííûì äîìîì. Íà ïëîùàäè ó äâóõ òàâåðí íåñêîëüêî ìóæ÷èí ñèäåëè íà óëèöå, ìèðíî áåñåäóÿ è âûïèâàÿ áåëîå âèíî èëè êîôå. Îïèñûâàÿ ïîäîáíóþ ñöåíó 1950-õ ãîäîâ, Ôåðìîð
Higher up, the trail was bordered with olive groves. All of it had a stark, sharp beauty. It took an hour to walk to Kastania. Near the village square, a woman stood precariously on a stone wall, picking and bagging figs from a tree beside a house that looked abandoned, its harvest apparently fair game. In the square, a cadre of men sat outdoors at two adjoining tavernas, talking and drinking retsina or coffee. Describing a similar scene in the 1950s, Fermor wrote that taverna denizens he met “mercifully” avoided politics and instead talked about shipwrecks, Lord Byron, the fall of Byzantium, bird migration or the evils of hashish-smoking.The men at the tavernas in Kastania were they talking about hashish and shipwrecks? Or were they hashing out the potential sinking of Greece's economic ship of state? What the villagers said was Greek to me, but while in the Mani, I saw no sign of people fretting about the economy. Distant from Greece's power centers, daily life in these villages seemed unhurried and unworried. In every village, almost all available land was used for food production. In every back yard there were squashes or melons growing, a grapevine, fruit and olive trees, rows of vegetables; often, hens scurried around. In subsequent days, I saw that each village in the Mani is unique, but all have
ÌÜíç/ Mani/ Ìàíè Ôéò åðüìåíåò çìÝñåò, åßäá üôé êÜèå ÷ùñéü óôç ÌÜíç åßíáé ìïíáäéêü, áëëÜ üëá Ý÷ïõí ôïõëÜ÷éóôïí äõï êïéíÜ: ãåùñãéêÞ áõôïäõíáìßá êáé Üíäñåò, ðïëëÝò öïñÝò êáé ãõíáßêåò, ðïõ êÜèïíôáé óå ôáâÝñíåò, ìéëÜíå, ðßíïõí êáé ãåëïýí. Ï ñõèìüò ôùí çìåñþí Ãéá ôïõò ðÝíôå ìáò, ïé ðåñéóóüôåñåò ìÝñåò åß÷áí ôïí ßäéï ñõèìü. Åíþ ç ÌðÝôõ êáé ôá ðåèåñéêÜ ìïõ êïéìüíôáí áêüìá, åãþ óçêùíüìïõí ãéá ôçí ðñùéíÞ ìïõ åîüñìçóç. Ðßóù óôï óðßôé, Ýöôéá÷íá æåóôÜ äçìçôñéáêÜ êáé êáöÝ. Ôçí ßäéá óôéãìÞ, ç íýöç ìïõ ðåñðáôïýóå ìÝ÷ñé ôïí êïíôéíü öïýñíï êáé Ýöåñíå öñåóêïøçìÝíï øùìß. Êáèüìáóôáí óôçí êÜôù áõëÞ, óôç óêéÜ ôïõ áìðåëéïý êáé áðïëáìâÜíáìå íôïìÜôåò, ãéáïýñôé, ôõñß êáé óôáöýëéá, áðü ôá ôóáìðéÜ ðïõ êñÝìïíôáí ðÜíù áðü ôï êåöÜëé ìáò. Íùñßò ôï áðüãåõìá ïäçãïýóáìå ðñïóåêôéêÜ óôá óôåíÜ óïêÜêéá óôï Íåï÷þñé êáé óôç óõíÝ÷åéá öôÜíáìå óôçí ðáñáëßá. Ïé áììþäåéò ðáñáëßåò ôçò Óôïýðáò Þôáí ãåìÜôåò ïìðñÝëåò êáé ëÜôñåéò ôïõ Þëéïõ. ÐñïôéìÞóáìå ôçí ðáñáëßá ÐáíôáæÞ, íüôéá ôïõ Áãßïõ ÍéêïëÜïõ. ¹ôáí ìéá âïôóáëùôÞ ðáñáëßá, ÷ùñßò ðïëý êüóìï, ìå Ýíá óíáê ìðáñ, äçìüóéåò ôïõáëÝôåò êáé óêéåñÜ äÝíôñá. ¹ôáí ôï ôÝëåéï ìÝñïò ãéá äéÜâáóìá êáé âïõôéÝò óôá æåóôÜ íåñÜ ôïõ êüëðïõ. ÁñãÜ ôï áðüãåõìá åðéóôñÝöáìå óôï óðßôé êáé êáèüìáóôáí óôï åðÜíù åðÜíù áßèñéï, ðßíïíôáò óðéôéêü ÷õìü óôáöõëéïý êáé âëÝðïíôáò ôï çëéïâáóßëåìá óôïí êüëðï. Óôçí Üëëç êáôåýèõíóç Þôáí ï Ôáàãåôïò, ç áðüôïìç ñÜ÷ç ôçò ÌÜíçò, ðïõ ìåñéêÝò öïñÝò êáëýðôåôáé áðü óêïôåéíÜ óýííåöá. Ï áäåñöüò ôçò ãõíáßêáò ìïõ êáé ç óýæõãïò ôïõ ðåñðáôïýóáí áñãÜ ôï áðüãåõìá, ðñéí áðü ôï äåßðíï. Áðôüçôïé áðü ôï óêïôÜäé, ôá áäéÜâáôá öáñÜããéá Þ ôçí åîÜíôëçóç, áíôéìåôþðéæáí áõôÞ ôçí ðåæïðïñßá óáí ìéá Üóêçóç èÜññïõò óôá ÉìáëÜéá. ÊáôÜ ôç äéÜñêåéá ìéáò Ýíôïíçò ðåæïðïñßáò, ðåñéìÝíïíôáò íá âñïõí ìéá ôáâÝñíá ìå æåóôü öáãçôü êáé êñýá ðïôÜ, óõíÝ÷éæáí ôï ðåñðÜôçìá ðñïò ôá ðÜíù êáé Ýâñéóêáí ìüíï ðçãÝò ìå êñýï íåñü óôï âïõíü êáé Ýíá äÝíôñï ãåìÜôï þñéìá óýêá, ôá ïðïßá êáé Ýôñùãáí. ¹ôáí ìéá áîÝ÷áóôç åìðåéñßá, ðïëý óçìáíôéêüôåñç áðü ôçí áíÜìíçóç ìéáò ôáâÝñíáò. Åß÷áí ìéá éóôïñßá, ðïõ Üîéæå íá èõìïýíôáé, äçëáäÞ Ýíáí áðü ôïõò ëüãïõò ðïõ ôáîéäåýïõìå. Ó÷åäüí êÜèå âñÜäõ ðçãáßíáìå ìÝ÷ñé ôá ðáñáèáëÜóóéá ÷ùñéÜ ãéá äåßðíï. Óôï "×èåò êáé ÓÞìåñá", Ýíá êáôÜóôçìá äþñùí êáé åóôéáôüñéï óôç Óôïýðá, ç Âïýëá ÊõñéáêÝá, ç åõãåíéêÞ éäéïêôÞôñéá, ìáò åßðå: "Åêáôü ÷ñüíéá ðñéí, Ýíáò íåáñüò Üíäñáò Þñèå êáé óôçí ÊáëïãñéÜ ãéá åîüñõîç. Ï Íßêïò ÊáæáíôæÜêçò". "Áõôüò ðïõ Ýãñáøå ôïí ÆïñìðÜ;" áíáöùíÞóáìå. Ç Âïýëá êïýíçóå êáôáöáôéêÜ ôï êåöÜëé.
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at least two things in common: some agricultural self-reliance, and men sometimes women, too sitting at tavernas, talking, drinking and laughing. The rhythm of days For the five of us, most days had the same rhythm: While Betty and my inlaws were still sleeping, I'd go for my early-morning hike. Back at the house, I'd make hot cereal and coffee. At the same time, my sister-in-law would walk to the nearby bakery for a warm hearth-baked loaf. We'd sit in the lower patio, shaded by a grapevine, feasting on tomatoes, yogurt, cheese and grapes from the clusters hanging overhead. In the early afternoon automobile side-mirrors tucked in we'd carefully creep out of Neohori's tight alleyways and then drive to the seashore. Stoupa's sandy beaches were thick with parasols and sun worshipers; we preferred Pantazi Beach, south of Agios Nikolaos. Pantazi is pebbly and uncrowded and has a snack bar, public toilets and shady trees: It's a perfect place to read, interrupted by an occasional dip in warm gulf waters. By late afternoon we'd go home and sit in the upper patio, drinking homemade grape juice, watching the sunset on the gulf. In the other direction were the Taygetus Mountains the steep spine of the Mani occasionally capped by dark clouds. My brother- and sister-in-law hiked in the late afternoon, before dinner. Undaunted by growing darkness, impassable gorges or exhaustion, my brother-in-law faced each walk as if it were a Himalayan test of mettle. During one strenuous hike, expecting to find a taverna with hot food and cold drinks, they trudged on and instead found only a spout with cold mountain water and a tree full of ripe figs, which they devoured. That was much more memorable than a taverna would have been, it gave them a story worth telling, which is, after all, one of the reasons for traveling Almost every night we drove down to the coastal villages for dinner. At Yesterday and Today, a combination restaurant/gift shop in Stoupa, Voula Kyriakea, the gracious owner, pointed to the other side of the inlet. “A hundred years ago, a young man came to Kalogria,” Voula said, “to do some mining. Nikos Kazantzakis.” “Who wrote 'Zorba the Greek,'” we exclaimed. Voula nodded. “He hired a mining engineer, an older man full of life. His name? Zorbas!” Voula laughed, relishing the Mani's past as well as its present. There was no question why she'd named her restaurant Yesterday and Today. Later, we strolled Stoupa's curved boardwalk no high-rises and just the right amount of tourist shops, restaurants,
ïèñàë, ÷òî æèòåëè, êîòîðûå âñòðå÷àëèñü åìó â òàâåðíàõ, èçáåãàëè ðàçãîâîðîâ î ïîëèòèêå, è âìåñòî ýòîãî ãîâîðèëè î êîðàáëåêðóøåíèÿõ, î ëîðäå Áàéðîíå, î ïàäåíèè Âèçàíòèéñêîé èìïåðèè, î ìèãðàöèè ïòèö èëè î âðåäå êóðåíèÿ ãàøèøà. Òàê ÷òî æå, ìóæ÷èíû â òàâåðíàõ ïîñ¸ëêà Êàñòàíèÿ áûëè òåìè, êîòîðûå áåñåäîâàëè î âðåäå ãàøèøà èëè òåìè, êòî ãîâîðèë î íåìèíóåìîì ïîòîïëåíèè «êîðàáëÿ» ãðå÷åñêîé ýêîíîìèêè? Áåñåäà ìåñòíûõ æèòåëåé áûëà ìíå íåïîíÿòíà, íî íà ïîëóîñòðîâå Ìàíè ÿ íèêîãäà íå âñòðå÷àë ëþäåé, êîòîðûå áû òðàòèëè ñèëû è ýíåðãèþ íà ýêîíîìèêó. Âäàëè îò ìåñò ñîñðåäîòî÷åíèÿ âëàñòè â Ãðåöèè ïîâñåäíåâíàÿ æèçíü â ïîäîáíûõ ñåëàõ ïðîòåêàëà íåòîðîïëèâî è ðàçìåðåííî.  êàæäîé äåðåâíå ïî÷òè âñå äîñòóïíûå çåìëè èñïîëüçóþòñÿ äëÿ âûðàùèâàíèÿ îâîùåé è ôðóêòîâ.  êàæäîì äâîðå ïîñàæåíû êàáà÷êè èëè äûíè, ðàñò¸ò âèíîãðàä, ôðóêòîâûå äåðåâüÿ, îëèâêè, îâîùè, à â áîëüøèíñòâå äâîðîâ ãóëÿþò êóðû. Îïûò âñåõ ïîñëåäóþùèõ äíåé ïîêàçàë, ÷òî êàæäàÿ äåðåâíÿ íà ïîëóîñòðîâå Ìàíè óíèêàëüíà, íî âñå îíè èìåþò, ïî êðàéíåé ìåðå, äâå îáùèõ ÷åðòû: ïåðâîå ýòî ñ å ë ü ñ ê î õ î ç ÿ é ñ ò â å í í à ÿ ñàìîñòîÿòåëüíîñòü, è âòîðîå - ìóæ÷èíû (à çà÷àñòóþ è æåíùèíû), êîòîðûå ñèäÿò â òàâåðíàõ, ïðîâîäÿò âðåìÿ çà ðàçãîâîðàìè, ïüþò è ñìåþòñÿ. Òàêîâ ðèòì æèçíè. Äëÿ íàñ ïÿòåðûõ ïî÷òè âñå äíè ïðîõîäèëè â îäèíàêîâîì ðèòìå. Ïîêà Áåòòè è ìîÿ ò¸ùà ñïàëè, ÿ âñòàâàë è ñîâåðøàë óòðåííþþ ïðîãóëêó. Âåðíóâøèñü, äîìà ÿ ãîòîâèë ãîðÿ÷èå õëîïüÿ è êîôå. À â ýòî æå âðåìÿ ìîÿ íåâåñòêà øëà â áëèæàéøóþ ïåêàðíþ è ïðèíîñèëà ñâåæåèñïå÷åííûé õëåá. Ìû ñèäåëè âî äâîðå â òåíè âèíîãðàäíîé áåñåäêè è íàñëàæäàëèñü ïîìèäîðàìè, éîãóðòîì, ñûðîì è âèíîãðàäîì, ãðîçäüÿ êîòîðîãî âèñåëè ó íàñ íàä ãîëîâîé. Ðàííèì âå÷åðîì ìû àêêóðàòíî ïðîåçæàëè ÷åðåç óçêèå óëî÷êè ïîñ¸ëêà Íåîõîðè, à çàòåì ïðèåçæàëè íà ïëÿæ. Ïåñ÷àíûå ïëÿæè ìåñòå÷êà Ñòóïà áûëè ïîëíû ï¸ñòðûõ çîíòèêîâ è ÿðûõ ïîêëîííèêîâ ñîëíöà. Ìû ïðåäïî÷ëè ïëÿæ Ïàíäàçè þæíåå ïîñ¸ëêà Ñâÿòîãî Íèêîëàÿ. Ýòî áûë ãàëå÷íûé ïëÿæ, áåçëþäíûé, âñåãî ëèøü ñ îäíîé çàêóñî÷íîé, îáùåñòâåííûìè òóàëåòàìè è òåíèñòûìè äåðåâüÿìè. Ýòî áûëî ïðåêðàñíîå ìåñòî äëÿ ÷òåíèÿ è êóïàíèÿ â òåïëûõ âîäàõ çàëèâà. Ïîçäíî âå÷åðîì ìû âîçâðàùàëèñü äîìîé è, ñèäÿ íà âåðõíåé òåððàñå, ïèëè äîìàøíèé âèíîãðàäíûé ñîê, è íàñëàæäàëèñü çàêàòîì ñîëíöà íàä çàëèâîì. Ñ äðóãîé ñòîðîíû íàõîäèëàñü ãîðà Òàéãåòîñ, êðóòîé ãîðíûé õðåáåò Ìàíè, êîòîðûé èíîãäà áûâàåò ñêðûò ò¸ìíûìè ãðîçîâûìè îáëàêàìè. Ìîé äåâåðü è åãî æåíà ïîçäíî âå÷åðîì ïåðåä óæèíîì ñîâåðøàëè ìåäëåííóþ ïðîãóëêó. Íå áîÿñü òåìíîòû, íåïðîõîäèìûõ îâðàãîâ, íå âçèðàÿ íà óñòàëîñòü, îíè ñ÷èòàëè ýòè ïðîãóëêè
"ÐñïóÝëáâå Ýíáí ìç÷áíéêü ïñõ÷åßùí, Ýíáí ìåãáëýôåñï Üíäñá ðïõ Ýóöõæå áðü æùÞ. Ôï üíïìÜ ôïõ; ÆïñìðÜò!". Ç Âïýëá ãÝëáóå, áðïëáìâÜíïíôáò ôï ðáñåëèüí ôçò ÌÜíçò, êáèþò êáé ôï ðáñüí ôçò. Äåí õðÞñ÷å êáìßá áìöéâïëßá ãéáôß ïíüìáæå ôï åóôéáôüñéï ôçò "×èåò êáé óÞìåñá". Áñãüôåñá, ðåñðáôïýóáìå óôïí ðåæüäñïìï ôçò Óôïýðáò, ðïõ äåí Ýâëåðåò êáíÝíá ðïëõþñïöï êôßñéï, ðáñÜ ìüíï
small hotels and rental apartments. Stoupa, Kalogria and Agios Nikolaos are all pleasant and unspoiled. A few miles north is beautiful Kardamili, which Fermor called “Byzantium restored.” These are all wonderful vacation spots. But day by day, we fell under the spell of Neohori, “our” village: its churches, the bakery and its aroma, the surrounding olive groves, the painted doorways and sturdy stone houses
íàñòîÿùåé øêîëîé ìóæåñòâà â Ãèìàëàÿõ. Èíîãäà â òàêèõ ïîõîäàõ â ïîèñêàõ òàâåðíû ñ ãîðÿ÷åé åäîé è ïðîõëàäèòåëüíûìè íàïèòêàìè, îíè ïðîäîëæàëè èäòè ââåðõ, è íàõîäèëè ëèøü ãîðíûå èñòî÷íèêè õîëîäíîé ðîäíèêîâîé âîäû è ôèãîâîå äåðåâî, ïîëíîå ñïåëûõ ïëîäîâ, êîòîðûå è ïîåäàëè. Ýòî áûëè íåçàáûâàåìûå îùóùåíèÿ, ãîðàçäî áîëåå ÿðêèå, ÷åì ïîñåùåíèå
ÌÜíç/ Mani/ Ìàíè
ôïí êáôÜëëçëï áñéèìü áðü ôïõñéóôéêÜ êáôáóôÞìáôá, åóôéáôüñéá, ìéêñÜ îåíïäï÷åßá êáé åíïéêéáæüìåíá äéáìåñßóìáôá. Ç Óôïýðá, ç Êáëüãñéá êáé ï ¢ãéïò Íéêüëáïò åßíáé åõ÷Üñéóôá êáé ðáñèÝíá ìÝñç. Ëßãá ÷éëéüìåôñá âüñåéá åßíáé ç üìïñöç Êáñäáìýëç, ôçí ïðïßá ï ÖÝñìïñ ïíïìÜæåé "ÁðïêáôåóôçìÝíï ÂõæÜíôéï". Ðñüêåéôáé ãéá õðÝñï÷á óçìåßá äéáêïðþí. ÌÝñá ìå ôç ìÝñá, ìáò ìÜãåøå êáé ôï Íåï÷þñé, ôï "äéêü" ìáò ÷ùñéü, ìå ôéò åêêëçóßåò, ôï áñôïðïéåßï êáé ôï Üñùìá ôïõ, ôïõò åëáéþíåò, ôéò âáììÝíåò ðüñôåò êáé ôá ðÝôñéíá óðßôéá, ôùí ïðïßùí ïé óôÝãåò Ýìïéáæáí ìå ôá öôåñÜ ôïõ ãåñáêéïý. ÐÜíù áð 'üëá, ðåñéìÝíáìå ìå áãùíßá ôçí çìåñÞóéá óõãêÝíôñùóç Ýîù áðü ôçí ðüñôá ìáò. ÊÜèå öïñÜ ðïõ ïé ãåßôïíåò åìöáíßæïíôáí, ç íýöç ìïõ áíáêïßíùíå: "Áêïýóôå! Ç ÂïõëÞ ôùí ãõíáéêþí ôïõ Íåï÷ùñßïõ îåêßíçóå ôç óõíåäñßáóç!" ÓðçëéÝò êáé Áêñïðüëåéò. Ï ÖÝñìïñ Ýãñáøå üôé ï Ðýñãïò Äõñïý, ìå ôïõò óôáëáãìßôåò êáé ôïõò óôáëáêôßôåò, ôá áðüêïóìá ÷ñþìáôá êáé ó÷Þìáôá, åßíáé ïé óðçëéÝò, ìÝóù ôùí ïðïßùí ãßíïíôáí ïé äéÜóçìåò êáôáâÜóåéò óôïí ÊÜôù Êüóìï". Ìéá þñá íüôéá áðü ôï Íåï÷þñé, ôá óðÞëáéá, ôá ïðïßá äéáó÷ßæåé êÜðïéïò ìå âÜñêá, åßíáé áñêåôÜ åíôõðùóéáêÜ, áêüìç êáé ÷ùñßò ôïõò ìýèïõò. ÁëëÜ ìÝóá, óÝñíïíôáò ôá äÜ÷ôõëÜ óáò óôï äñïóåñü íåñü, åßíáé äåëåáóôéêü íá öáíôáóôåß êáíåßò ôïí ÏñöÝá íá ðñïóðáèåß íá ïäçãÞóåé ôçí áãáðçìÝíç ôïõ Åõñõäßêç óôïí ÊÜôù Êüóìï. Ðéï êÜôù åßíáé ôï ÷ùñéü ÂÜèåéá. ÏñáôÞ áðü ôï åðßðåäï ôçò èÜëáóóáò, ç ÂÜèåéá ìïéÜæåé óáí ìéá óõëëïãÞ áðü ðÝôñéíïõò ðýñãïõò óôï ÷ñþìá ôçò êáñáìÝëáò. Áíåâáßíïíôáò ôï äñüìï, èá âñåßôå äåêÜäåò
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whose roofs sported hawk-shaped weather vanes. Most of all, we looked forward to the daily gathering outside our door. Whenever the neighbors appeared, my sister-in-law would announce: “Hear ye! Hear ye! The Neohori ladies' parliament is now in session!” Caves and citadels . Fermor wrote that Pyrgos Dirou stalagmites and stalactites, otherworldly colors and shapes, the stuff of dreams or nightmares are the caves “through which famous descents into the Underworld were made.” An hour south of Neohori, the caves, which you traverse in part by boat, are spectacular enough even without the myths. But inside, dragging your fingers in the cool water, it's tempting to imagine Orpheus trying to lead his beloved Eurydice through the Underworld. Farther down the Mani is the village of Vathia. Seen from sea level, Vathia looks like a collection of caramel-colored stone towers. After going up the switchback road, you find dozens of rectangular three- and four-story structures that once were family fortresses. Now they're deserted, empty. Built hundreds of years ago, these blocky citadels are emblematic of both the advantages and the pitfalls of the Mani's storied independence. They provided protection from feuding neighbors, marauders, other villages or invading armies, but no protection against economic downturns; so nowadays almost all these mini-forts, in spite of their spectacular views, are vacant and crumbling.
òàâåðíû. Ýòî áûëà èñòîðèÿ, êîòîðóþ ñòîèëî ñîõðàíèòü â ïàìÿòè, ýòî áûëî îäíîé èç öåëåé íàøåãî ïóòåøåñòâèÿ. Ïî÷òè êàæäûé âå÷åð ìû åçäèëè â ïðèáðåæíûå äåðåâåíüêè íà óæèí.  «Â÷åðà è Ñåãîäíÿ» - ñóâåíèðíîì ìàãàçèíå è ðåñòîðàíå â ïîñ. Ñòóïà ãîñïîæà Âóëà Êèðèàêåÿ, âåæëèâàÿ õîçÿéêà ñêàçàëà íàì: «Ñòî ëåò íàçàä â ïîñ¸ëîê Êàëîãðèÿ ïðèåõàë îäèí ìîëîäîé ÷åëîâåê Íèêîñ Êàçàíäçàêèñ». «Ýòî ÷òî òîò ñàìûé, êîòîðûé íàïèñàë Çîðáàñà? " âîñêëèêíóëè ìû. Âóëà êèâíóëà. «Îí íàíÿë ãîðíîãî èíæåíåðà ñòàðøåãî ïî âîçðàñòó, êîòîðûé áûë ïîëîí æèçíè. Êàê çâàëè åãî? Çîðáàñ!». Âóëà çàñìåÿëàñü, ïîëó÷àÿ óäîâîëüñòâèå îò ïðîøëîãî ïîëóîñòðîâà Ìàíè è ðàäóÿñü íàñòîÿùåìó. Áûëî àáñîëþòíî ÿñíî ïî÷åìó îíà íàçâàëà ðåñòîðàí «Â÷åðà è Ñåãîäíÿ». Çàòåì ìû ïðîãóëÿëèñü ïî íàáåðåæíîé äåðåâóøêè Ñòóïà, ãäå íå áûëî íè îäíîãî ìíîãîýòàæíîãî çäàíèÿ, à òîëüêî ñ÷èòàííûå ìàãàçèíû, íåñêîëüêî ðåñòîðàíîâ, íåáîëüøèõ îòåëåé è ïàíñèîíîâ. Ñòóïà, Êàëîãðèÿ è Ñâÿòîé Íèêîëàé - ýòî ïðèÿòíûå è ïåðâîçäàííûå ìåñòà.  íåñêîëüêèõ êèëîìåòðàõ ñåâåðíåå íàõîäèòñÿ êðàñèâûé ãîðîä Êàðäàìèëà, êîòîðûé Ô å ð ì î ð í à ç û â à å ò «Âîññòàíîâëåííàÿ Âèçàíòèÿ». Ýòî çàìå÷àòåëüíîå ìåñòî äëÿ îòäûõà. Ïîñòåïåííî íàñ î÷àðîâûâàëà è Íåîõîðè «íàøà» äåðåâíÿ, ñ å¸ öåðêâÿìè, ïåêàðíåé è àðîìàòîì îëèâêîâûõ ðîù, îêðàøåííûõ äâåðåé è êàìåííûõ äîìîâ, êðûøè êîòîðûõ íàïîìèíàþò êðûëüÿ ÿñòðåáà. À ãëàâíîå, ìû ñ íåòåðïåíèåì æäàëè åæåäíåâíûõ ñáîðèù ó äâåðåé íàøåãî äîìà. Âñÿêèé ðàç, êîãäà ïîÿâëÿëèñü ñîñåäè, ìîÿ íåâåñòêà îáúÿâëÿëà: «Ñëóøàéòå! Æåíñêèé Ïàðëàìåíò äåðåâíè Íåîõîðè íà÷àë î÷åðåäíîå çàñåäàíèå!» Ïåùåðû è àêðîïîëè. Ôåðìîð ïèñàë, ÷òî «áàøíÿ Äóðó ñî ñòàëàêòèòàìè è ñòàëàãìèòàìè, öâåòà è ôîðìû èç äðóãîãî ìèðà ýòî ïåùåðû, ÷åðåç êîòîðûå ñîâåðøèëèñü çíàìåíèòûå ñïóñêè â ïîäçåìíûé ìèð ".  ÷àñå åçäû ê þãó îò Íåîõîðè íàõîäÿòñÿ ïåùåðû, êîòîðûå ìîæíî ïåðåñå÷ü íà ëîäêå. Ïîñåùåíèå èõ âåñüìà âïå÷àòëÿåò äàæå áåç âîñïîìèíàíèé èç äðåâíåãðå÷åñêèõ ìèôîâ. À âíóòðè ýòèõ ïåùåð, ïðîâîäÿ ðóêîé ïî
ïñèïãþíéá êôßóìáôá ôñéþí êáé ôåóóÜñùí ïñüöùí, ðïõ êÜðïôå Þôáí ïéêïãåíåéáêÜ öñïýñéá. ÓÞìåñá åßíáé Ýñçìá êáé Üäåéá. ×ôéóìÝíá åêáôïíôÜäåò ÷ñüíéá ðñéí, áõôÜ êôßñéá õðÞñîáí åìâëçìáôéêÜ ãéá ôç ÷éëéïôñáãïõäéóìÝíç áíåîáñôçóßá ôçò ÌÜíçò. Ðáñåß÷áí ðñïóôáóßá áðü áíôéìá÷üìåíïõò ãåßôïíåò, åðéäñïìåßò, Üëëá ÷ùñéÜ Þ óôñáôåýìáôá åéóâïëÞò, áëëÜ äåí åß÷áí êáìßá ðñïóôáóßá êáôÜ ôçò ïéêïíïìéêÞò ýöåóçò. ¸ôóé óÞìåñá ó÷åäüí üëá áõôÜ ôá ìßíé - öñïýñéá, ðáñÜ ôç èåáìáôéêÞ èÝá ôïõò, åßíáé êåíÜ êáé êáôáññÝïõí. ÁöÞóáìå ôç ÂÜèåéá, ïäçãÞóáìå óôï íüôéï Üêñï ôçò ÷åñóïíÞóïõ êáé óôç óõíÝ÷åéá, þñåò áñãüôåñá, ðÞñáìå ìéá ëÜèïò óôñïöÞ êáé êáôáëÞîáìå ðßóù óôç ÂÜèåéá. ÁëëÜ ôþñá üëá Þôáí ðïëý äéáöïñåôéêÜ. Ï äñüìïò ìÝóá áðü ôï åãêáôáëåëåéììÝíï ÷ùñéü Þôáí ãåìÜôïò áõôïêßíçôá áðü Üêñç óå Üêñç. ¸íáò ãÜìïò Þôáí óå åîÝëéîç. ¸íáò ãÜìïò; Óå Ýíá ÷ùñéü öÜíôáóìá, ãíùóôü êõñßùò ãéá ôéò âåíôÝôåò ôïõ; ÐáñÜîåíï. ÁëëÜ åêåß Þôáí ç íýöç, ï ãáìðñüò, ïé åðéóêÝðôåò, ï éåñÝáò, ôá öáãçôÜ, ç äéáêüóìçóç, ôá ìðáëüíéá, ç ìïõóéêÞ, ìéá ÷áñïýìåíç ãéïñôÞ óå åãêáôáëåëåéììÝíá óðßôéá êáé ìðáëêüíéá. ¸ìïéáæå ôüóï æùíôáíü, üðùò ôï ãÝëéï óôçí áôõ÷ßá. ¼ðùò ï ÷ïñüò ôïõ ÆïñìðÜ, ìåôÜ ôçí êáôáóôñïöÞ Þ üðùò ïé ÷ùñéáíïß ðïõ ðßíïõí ñåôóßíá óå ìéá ôáâÝñíá, åíþ ç ïéêïíïìßá ôçò ÷þñáò ôïõò ìðïñåß íá êáôáññåýóåé. ÐÞãáìå óôç ÌÜíç êáèáñÜ áðü ôý÷ç, ãéá ìéá ïéêïãåíåéáêÞ óõãêÝíôñùóç. ÁëëÜ êáèþò ïé ìÝñåò ðåñíïýóáí, ðÜñá ðïëý ãñÞãïñá, êáôÜëáâá üôé åßíáé áäýíáôï íá ðåñÜóåé êáíåßò ÷ñüíï åêåß, ÷ùñßò íá ðÜñåé ôïõëÜ÷éóôïí ìåñéêÜ ìáèÞìáôá æùÞò. Ôçí ìåôÜöñáóç ôïõ Üñèñïõ Ýêáíå ôï travelstyle.gr, ðçãÞ ìáò äå õðÞñîå ôï site iefimerida, áëëÜ êáé ç Ýíôõðç Ýêäïóç ôçò «Åëåõèåñßáò» ôçò ÊáëáìÜôáò.
We left Vathia, drove to the southern tip of the peninsula and then, hours later, took a wrong turn and inadvertently ended up back in Vathia. But now something was very different. The road through the abandoned village was lined with cars from end to end, far too many for tourist traffic. A wedding was in progress. A wedding? In a ghost village known mainly for its vendettas? Bizarre. But there they were: bride, groom, guests, priest, food, decorations, balloons, music a joyous celebration in abandoned passages and balconies. It seemed so life-affirming, like laughter in the face of misfortune like Zorba's dance after the mining disaster, or an immigrant woman's cheerful boast about living in a house without utilities, or villagers at a taverna drinking retsina while the country's economy circles the drain. We'd gone to the Mani Peninsula purely by chance, for a family gathering. But as the days passed much too quickly! I realized that it's impossible to spend any time there and not learn at least a few life lessons. Ôhe greek translation of the article was done by travelstyle.gr, site iefimerida, was our source along with the printed version of “Eleftheria” in Kalamata.
ïðîõëàäíîé âîäå, íåëüçÿ óäåðæàòüñÿ îò ñîáëàçíà è ïðåäñòàâèòü ñåáå Îðôåÿ, êîòîðûé ïûòàåòñÿ ïðîâåñòè ñâîþ ëþáèìóþ Ýâðèäèêó â àä. Äàëåå íàõîäèòñÿ ñåëî Âàòèà. Ñåëî Âàòèà, âèä íà êîòîðîå îòêðûâàåòñÿ ñ ìîðÿ, ïîõîæå íà êîëëåêöèþ êàìåííûõ áàøåí öâåòà êàðàìåëè. Ïîäíèìàÿñü ââåðõ ïî óëèöå, ïóòíèê óâèäèò äåñÿòêè ïðÿìîóãîëüíûõ çäàíèé òðåõ è ÷åòûðåõ ýòàæåé, êîòîðûå áûëè êîãäà-òî ñåìåéíûìè çàìêàìè. Ñåãîäíÿ çäåñü òèõî è ïóñòûííî. Ïîñòðîåííûå ñîòíè ëåò íàçàä, ýòè çäàíèÿ áûëè ñèìâîëîì íåîäíîêðàòíî âîñïåòîé íåçàâèñèìîñòè ïîëóîñòðîâà Ìàíè. Îíè ñëóæèëè çàùèòîé îò âîèíñòâóþùèõ ñîñåäåé, âðàæåñêèõ íàáåãîâ, çàâîåâàòåëåé èç äðóãèõ äåðåâåíü èëè âîîðóæåííûõ âîéñê, íî îíè íå áûëè çàùèùåíû îò ýêîíîìè÷åñêîãî êðèçèñà. Òàêèì îáðàçîì, ïî÷òè âñå ýòè ìèíè-êðåïîñòè, íåñìîòðÿ íà çàõâàòûâàþùåå äóõ çðåëèùå, ïóñòû è ìåäëåííî ðàçðóøàþòñÿ. Ïîêèíóâ ñåëî Âàòèà, ìû ïîåõàëè íà þæíóþ îêîíå÷íîñòü ïîëóîñòðîâà, à çàòåì íåñêîëüêî ÷àñîâ ñïóñòÿ, íåïðàâèëüíî ñâåðíóâ ñ äîðîãè, âíîâü îêàçàëèñü â ñåëå Âàòèà. Íî òåïåðü âñå âûãëÿäåëî ñîâñåì èíà÷å. Âñÿ äîðîãà çàáðîøåííîé äåðåâíè áûëà ïîëíà àâòîìîáèëåé. Íà÷èíàëàñü ñâàäüáà. Ñâàäüáà?  äåðåâíå-ïðèçðàêå, êîòîðàÿ áûëà èçâåñòíà â ïåðâóþ î÷åðåäü ñâîèìè ðàñïðÿìè? Ñòðàííî. Íî âîò ïåðåä íàìè íåâåñòà, æåíèõ, ãîñòè, ñâÿùåííèê, óãîùåíèå, ïðàçäíè÷íûé äåêîð, âîçäóøíûå øàðû, ìóçûêà, ðàäîñòíûé ïðàçäíèê ñðåäè çàáðîøåííûõ äîìîâ è áåñåäîê. Ýòî çðåëèùå áûëî òàêèì æèâûì, ñëîâíî ñìåõ â ã.ðå. Êàê òàíåö Çîðáû, ïîñëå êàòàñòðîôû èëè êàê æèòåëè, êîòîðûå ïüþò áåëîå âèíî â òàâåðíå, â òî âðåìÿ êàê ýêîíîìèêà ñòðàíû ìîæåò ðóõíóòü ñ ìèíóòû íà ìèíóòó. Ìû ïîåõàëè íà ïîëóîñòðîâ Ìàíè ÷èñòî ñëó÷àéíî, ïðîñòî ÷òîáû ñîáðàòüñÿ âñåé ñåìü¸é. Íî ïîñêîëüêó äíè øëè ñëèøêîì áûñòðî, ÿ ïîíÿë, ÷òî ïðîñòî íåâîçìîæíî òàì ïðîâåñòè âðåìÿ, íå ïîëó÷èâ õîòÿ áû íåñêîëüêèõ æèçíåííûõ óðîêîâ. Ïåðåâîä ñòàòüè áûë ñäåëàí travelstyle.gr, íàøåãî èñòî÷íèêà íå áûëî íà ñàéòå iefimerida, ïî ïå÷àòíîé âåðñèè ãàçåòû «Ýëåâòåðèÿ» ãîðîäà Êàëàìàòà.
ÐçãÞ: www. iefimerida.gr
Source: www. iefimerida.gr
Èñòî÷íèê: www. iefimerida.gr
ÓõíÝíôåõîç/ Interview/ Èíòåðâüþ
ÓõíÝíôåõîç
ÄçìÜñ÷ïõ ÊÝñêõñáò Êýñéå ÄÞìáñ÷å, åßíáé äåäïìÝíï üôé ôï íçóß ôçò ÊÝñêõñáò áðïôåëåß Ýíá ðïëý «ãåñü ÷áñôß» óôçí ðáãêüóìéá ôïõñéóôéêÞ âéïìç÷áíßá. ÐïëëÜ ÷ñüíéá ôþñá áðïôåëåß åðßóçò ôçí «áé÷ìÞ ôïõ äüñáôïò» êáé ôçò åã÷þñéáò ôïõñéóôéêÞò âéïìç÷áíßáò, ðïõ áíáìöéóâÞôçôá åßíáé ï ðéï áîéüðéóôïò ìï÷ëüò áíÜðôõîçò ôçò ÷åéìáæüìåíçò ÅëëçíéêÞò ïéêïíïìßáò. Ðüóï üëï áõôü äçìéïõñãåß Ýíá äéáöïñåôéêü «åéäéêü âÜñïò», ìéá åê ðñïïéìßïõ îå÷ùñéóôÞ åõèýíç óôçí åîÜóêçóç ôùí áõôïäéïéêçôéêþí êáèçêüíôùí óáò; Ï ôïõñéóìüò ãéá ôçí ðáôñßäá ìáò, åßíáé áðü ôá éó÷õñüôåñá üðëá ãéá ôçí áíôéìåôþðéóç ôçò ïéêïíïìéêÞò êñßóçò. Ãéá ôçí ÊÝñêõñá, ï ôïìÝáò ôïõ Ôïõñéóìïý áðïôåëåß ôïí ðëÝïí âáóéêü ðõëþíá ôçò ôïðéêÞò ïéêïíïìßáò êáé ç ðñïóðÜèåéá äéáôÞñçóçò ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò ìáò óå õøçëÜ åðßðåäá ôïõñéóôéêÞò áíôáãùíéóôéêüôçôáò, óõíéóôÜ Ýíáí áðü ôïõò âáóéêïýò óôü÷ïõò ôïõ ÄÞìïõ ìáò. Åßíáé äåäïìÝíï êýñéå ÄÞìáñ÷å üôé âáäßæïõìå ðñïò ôéò áõôïäéïéêçôéêÝò åêëïãÝò óôçí ÅëëÜäá. ×ùñßò íá ãíùñßæù ôçí üðïéá áðüöáóÞ óáò ó÷åôéêÜ ìå ôï áí èá åßóôå åê íÝïõ õðïøÞöéïò, èá Þèåëá Ýíáí åðéãñáììáôéêü áðïëïãéóìü ôïõ Ýñãïõ óáò, ìå ìéá Ýìöáóç óå üôé ó÷åôßæåôáé ìå ôïí ôïõñéóìü êáé ôéò ðáñáìÝôñïõò ôïõ, ìéá êáé ç óõíÝíôåõîç áðåõèýíåôáé óôïõò áíáãíþóôåò åíüò fly magazine, ùò åê ôïýôïõ åßíáé äåäïìÝíç ç óôï÷ïðïßçóç ôùí èåìáôéêþí åíïôÞôùí ðïõ åóôéÜæïõìå. Âåâáßùò ìÝóá óå ëßãåò ãñáììÝò äåí ìðïñåß íá ãßíåé Ýíáò áðïëïãéóìüò ôçò èçôåßáò, ôçò äçìïôéêÞò áñ÷Þò, ðïõ óå ëßãïõò ìÞíåò ôåëåéþíåé. ÅðéãñáììáôéêÜ óáò áíáöÝñù: ÌÝóá óå Ýíá ðåñéâÜëëïí, âáèéÜò êñßóçò, ï äÞìïò Ýäùóå éäéáßôåñï âÜñïò óôçí êïéíùíéêÞ ôïõ ðïëéêÞ, óôçñßæïíôáò ìå êÜèå ôñüðï óõìðïëßôåò ìáò ðïõ Ý÷ïõí áíÜãêåò. Ç êïéíùíéêÞ áëëçëåããýç áíáäåéêíýåôáé, åê ôùí ðñáãìÜôùí, Ýíáò áðü ôïõò êïñõöáßïõò Üîïíåò ôçò ðïëéôéêÞò ìáò. Äéáãíþóáìå åãêáßñùò üôé ôï áßôçìá ãéá ìåãáëýôåñç âïÞèåéá áðü ôï ÄÞìï, óå åõÜëùôåò êïéíùíéêÝò ïìÜäåò, èá ãéíüôáí üëï êáé åíôïíüôåñï. ÄçìéïõñãÞóáìå íÝåò äïìÝò êáé êÜíáìå ðéï áðïôåëåóìáôéêÝò ôéò õðÜñ÷ïõóåò. ÐáñÜ ôá óïâáñÜ ïéêïíïìéêÜ ðñïâëÞìáôá ðïõ áíôéìåôùðßæïõìå, êÜíáìå áéóèçôÞ ôçí ðáñïõóßá ìáò óôéò ìåãÜëåò äéåèíåßò ôïõñéóôéêÝò åêèÝóåéò êáé óå óôï÷åõìÝíåò ôïõñéóôéêÝò áãïñÝò. Óå óõíåñãáóßá ìå ôç Ìçôñüðïëç Êåñêýñáò, Ý÷ïõìå äþóåé éäéáßôåñï âÜñïò êáé óôï èñçóêåõôéêü ôïõñéóìü, ô' áðïôåëÝóìáôá áð' áõôÞí ôçí ðñïóðÜèåéá åßíáé Üêñùò åíèáññõíôéêÜ. Ùò åê ôïýôïõ, ï êåñêõñáúêüò ôïõñéóìüò, ðáñÜ ôéò äõóìåíåßò åðéðôþóåéò áðü ôçí ðáãêüóìéá ÷ñçìáôïðéóôùôéêÞ êñßóç êáé ôç óõíå÷éæüìåíç ýöåóç ôçò åëëçíéêÞò ïéêïíïìßáò, åðÝäåéîå áîéïèáýìáóôç áíôï÷Þ ðáñïõóéÜæïíôáò áíáðôõîéáêÞ ôñï÷éÜ. Ç óõíåéóöïñÜ ôïõ ÄÞìïõ ìáò óôçí áíÜðôõîç ôïõ ôïõñéóôéêïý ðñïúüíôïò èá ðñÝðåé íá åêôéìçèåß ü÷é ìüíï óå
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ðïóïôéêü áëëÜ êáé óå ðïéïôéêü åðßðåäï, ëáìâÜíïíôáò õðüøç üôé õëïðïéåßôáé óõãêñïôçìÝíï ó÷Ýäéï äñÜóçò ìå óôü÷ï ôçí ïéêïäüìçóç ó÷Ýóåùí åìðéóôïóýíçò êáé ôçí áíáóôñïöÞ ôïõ áñíçôéêïý êëßìáôïò áðü ôéò ðáñáäïóéáêÝò ìáò áãïñÝò. Ç áíÜêôçóç ìåñéäßïõ áãïñÜò áðü ôçí ÌåãÜëç Âñåôáíßá êáé ôç Ãåñìáíßá, ÷þñåò ïé ïðïßåò áðïôåëïýí ôç ìåãáëýôåñç äåîáìåíÞ Üíôëçóçò ôïõñéóôþí ãéá ôçí ÊÝñêõñá êáèþò êáé ç óçìáíôéêÞ áýîçóç áðü ôç ñùóéêÞ áãïñÜ, äéáìüñöùóáí Ýíá áóöáëÝò ðåäßï ãéá ôç óôÞñéîç ôçò ôïõñéóôéêÞò ìáò ïéêïíïìßáò. ÐÝñá äå áðü áõôüí ôïí åí äõíÜìåé áðïëïãéóìü èá Þèåëá íá ôï åìâáèýíù êáé ðáñáðÝñá êáé íá ñùôÞóù ðïéï óôçí äéÜñêåéá ôçò äçìáñ÷ßáò óáò èåùñåßôáé ôï óçìáíôéêüôåñï Ýñãï ðïõ Ý÷åé ãßíåé óôï íçóß, áðü ôçí Üëëç ðïéïò ðáñáìÝíåé áíåêðëÞñùôïò ðüèïò, Ýíá üñáìá óáò ãéá ôïí ôüðï, ðïõ ç õëïðïßçóç ôïõ ðéóôåýåôáé üôé èá êáôáîßùíå ôçí áõôïäéïéêçôéêÞ óáò äéáäñïìÞ. Ç ðåñßïäïò ðïõ åêðíÝåé, ðÝñá áðü ôçí ïéêïíïìéêÞ êñßóç, ôçí äñáìáôéêÞ ìåßùóç ôùí ðüñùí áðü ôï êåíôñéêü êñÜôïò óôçí ÔïðéêÞ Áõôïäéïßêçóç, Þôáí êáé ìéá ðåñßïäïò ïñãÜíùóçò ôïõ ìåãÜëïõ ÄÞìïõ ôçò ÊÝñêõñáò, ðïõ ðñüåêõøå, ýóôåñá áðü ôçí óõíÝíùóç ôùí ðñþçí êáðïäéóôñéáêþí äÞìùí êáé ôùí äéáðüíôéùí íçóéþí. ¸ãéíáí óçìáíôéêÜ ðñÜãìáôá óå åðßðåäï õðïäïìþí - ïëïêëÞñùóç áðï÷åôåõôéêþí äéêôýùí óôçí ðåñéöÝñåéá, ïëïêëÞñùóç ëáúêÞò áãïñÜò êáé ìéá óåéñÜ Ýñãùí ìåãÜëçò êáé ìéêñüôåñçò êëßìáêáò - êáé óå åðßðåäï ïñãÜíùóçò. ÓÞìåñá õðÜñ÷ïõí ðïëëÜ Ýñãá õðïäïìþí óå åîÝëéîç êáé Ýíá ó÷Ýäéï ôïõñéóôéêÞò ðñïâïëÞò ðïõ èá äþóåé áêüìá ðåñéóóüôåñç þèçóç óôï íçóß êáé èá åíéó÷ýóåé ôçí ôïõñéóôéêÞ ïéêïíïìßá. Áí êáé ëßãï ðïëý ïé ôïõñéóôéêÝò áãïñÝò ðïõ áðåõèýíïíôáé ôá íçóéÜ ôïõ Éïíßïõ ãåíéêüôåñá êáé ç ÊÝñêõñá åéäéêüôåñá åßíáé äåäïìÝíåò ÷ñüíéá ôþñá, ðéóôåýåôáé åí ôïýôïéò üôé ìðïñåß íá õðÜñîåé êáé ìéá Üëëç, ìéá åðß ðëÝïí ðñïóÝããéóç óå áãïñÝò ðïõ ðñüóöáôá áíáðôýóóïõí ìéá åíäéáöÝñïõóá äõíáìéêÞ, áíáöÝñïìáé óå ìéá óåéñÜ ÂáëêáíéêÝò ÷þñåò, ãéá ôçí ç Ñþóéêç áãïñÜ åðßóçò! ¼ðùò óáò áíÝöåñá ðáñáðÜíù, åêôüò áðü ôéò ðáñáäïóéáêÝò áãïñÝò ï ÄÞìïò ìáò äßíåé Ýìöáóç êáé óå êáéíïýñãéåò áãïñÝò, üðùò áõôÝò ôùí âáëêáíéêþí ÷ùñþí êáé öõóéêÜ ôçò Ñùóßáò. Ç ÁSTRA AIRLINES åßíáé ç áåñïðïñéêÞ åôáéñåßá ðïõ óõíäÝåé ôçí ÊÝñêõñá ìå ôçí Â. ÅëëÜäá êáé ôçí Èåóóáëïíßêç. ¸÷åôå íá êÜíåôå êÜðïéá áíáöïñÜ, ßóùò ìéá ôïðïèÝôçóç, ãéá ôïí ñüëï ôçò óôçí ðñïóÝëêõóç åðéóêåðôþí óôï íçóß áðü Ýíáí ãåùãñáöéêü ÷þñï ðïõ áðïäåäåéãìÝíá Ý÷åé éó÷õñïýò äåóìïýò ìå ôçí ðåñéï÷Þ óáò? Ç êÜèå áåñïðïñéêÞ óýíäåóç ìå ôçí ÊÝñêõñá ðñïóäßäåé ðëåïíÝêôçìá óôçí ðñïóðÜèåéá ãéá ôïõñéóôéêÞ áíÜðôõîç. Ç óýíäåóç ôçò Âïñåßïõ ÅëëÜäïò êáé ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò ìå ôï íçóß ìáò, ìå ôçí áåñïðïñéêÞ åôáéñåßá ASTRA AIRLINES åíéó÷ýåé ôç èÝóç ôïõ ÊÝñêõñáò óôçí åëëçíéêÞ êáé óôéò äéåèíåßò áãïñÝò. Åßóôå áéóéüäïîïò ãéá ôï ìÝëëïí êýñéå ÄÞìáñ÷å; ÅêôéìÜôå üôé áõôü ôï êáëïêáßñé ìðïñåß íá áðïôåëÝóåé åöáëôÞñéï ãéá ìéá ðïñåßá áíÜðôõîçò, ôüóï óå ïéêïíïìéêü üóï êáé óå ðïëéôéêïðïëéôéóôéêü åðßðåäï; Åßìáé áéóéüäïîïò ãéá êáëýôåñåò ìÝñåò êáé óôçí ðáôñßäá ìáò êáé óôïí ôüðï ìïõ. Íá êëåßóïõìå áõôÞ ôçí óõíÝíôåõîç ì Ýíá «ìüôï» áðü åóÜò, Ýíá «ìüôï» ðïõ óáò åêöñÜæåé äéá÷ñïíéêÜ êáé ôï ÷ñçóéìïðïéåßôáé ðïëý óõ÷íÜ óôçí êáèçìåñéíüôçôÜ óáò. Ï ÄÞìïò ÊïíôÜ óôïõò äçìüôåò, ìáæß ìå ôïõò äçìüôåò óå ìéá êïéíÞ ðñïóðÜèåéá ãéá ôï êáëü ôïõ ôüðïõ. Íá õðåñâïýìå ôïõò åáõôïýò ìáò, íá áîéïðïéÞóïõìå êÜèå áðüèåìá äýíáìçò êáé åëðßäáò, íá ìçí õðï÷ùñÞóïõìå óå åìðüäéá êáé íá ìçí óôåñÞóïõìå áðü êáíÝíáí óõìðáôñéþôç ìáò ôï äéêáßùìá óôï üíåéñï.
ÓõíÝíôåõîç/ Interview/ Èíòåðâüþ
Interview with the
Èíòåðâüþ
mayor of Corfu
ñ ìýðîì ã.Êåðêèðà
Mr. Mayor, it is a fact that the island of Corfu is a “strong card” in world tourism industry. Many years now it is also “the spearhead” of domestic tourism industry, which is unquestionably the most reliable development instrument for Greek economy that is tried sorely. To what extent does this create a different 'gravity', an individual responsibility all along on the exercise of your administrative duties? Tourism in our country is one of the strongest cards to deal with financial crisis. In Corfu, tourism constitutes the most basic pillar of local economy and the main objective of our Municipality is to try to maintain the island in high position in matters of tourism competitiveness.
Ã-í ìýð, èçâåñòíî, ÷òî îñòðîâ Êîðôó ÿâëÿåòñÿ êîçûðíîé êàðòîé â ìèðîâîé èíäóñòðèè òóðèçìà. Âîò óæå ìíîãî ëåò îí òàêæå ÿâëÿåòñÿ îïîðîé îòå÷åñòâåííîé èíäóñòðèè òóðèçìà, êîòîðàÿ, íåñîìíåííî, ÿâëÿåòñÿ ñàìûì íàäåæíûì ðû÷àãîì ðàçâèòèÿ ãðå÷åñêîé ýêîíîìèêè, ïåðåæèâàþùåé ñåðüåçíûé ýêîíîìè÷åñêèé êðèçèñ. Âñå ýòî âîçëàãàåò íà âàñ îñîáóþ îòâåòñòâåííîñòü â îñóùåñòâëåíèè âàøèõ îáÿçàííîñòåé? Òóðèçì ÿâëÿåòñÿ îäíèì èç îñíîâíûõ îòðàñëåé ýêîíîìèêè Ãðåöèè â áîðüáå ñ ýêîíîìè÷åñêèì êðèçèñîì â íàøåé ñòðàíå. Äëÿ îñòðîâà Êîðôó òóðèçì ÿâëÿåòñÿ öåíòðàëüíûì ñòåðæíåì ìåñòíîé ýêîíîìèêè. Îäíîé èç ãëàâíûõ çàäà÷ íàøåãî ìóíèöèïàëèòåòà ÿâëÿåòñÿ ïðèëîæåíèå âñåõ óñèëèé, ÷òîáû ñîõðàíèòü íàø ðåãèîí íà âûñîêîì óðîâíå êîíêóðåíòîñïîñîáíîñòè â ñôåðå òóðèçìà.
We all know Mr. Mayor that Greece is moving towards administrative elections. Although I do not know if your are planning to run for mayor again, I would like you to give a short account on your work, giving emphasis to any issue related to tourism and its parameters, since the interview is addressed to fly magazine readers and as a consequence the topics on which we mainly focus are tourism-related. One can certainly realize that a review on the work of a municipal authority that ends in few months cannot be given in few lines. I would like to mention in short the following; in an environment where a serious crisis takes place, the municipality gave great importance in social policy supporting in any way the fellow-citizens who needed our help. Social solidarity becomes, ipso facto, one of the most important pillars of our policy. We realized in time that the request from vulnerable social groups for more help by the Municipality would become bigger and bigger. We created new structures and made the existent ones more effective. Despite the serious financial problems that we faced, we made our presence felt in big international tourism exhibitions and targeted tourist markets. In cooperation with the Holy Metropolis of Corfu, we gave special attention to religious also tourism and the results from this attempt are extremely encouraging. Therefore, tourism in Corfu -despite the unfavorable effects of the world financial crisis and the continuous recession of Greek economy- was remarkably resistant showing developmental course.
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Ã-í ìýð, â Ãðåöèè íàçðåëà íåîáõîäèìîñòü ïðîâåäåíèÿ âûáîðîâ â îðãàíû ìåñòíîãî ñàìîïðàâëåíèÿ. Íå çíàÿ, êàêîâî âàøå ðåøåíèå îòíîñèòåëüíî òîãî, áóäåòå ëè âû ñíîâà ó÷àñòâîâàòü â âûáîðàõ êàê êàíäèäàò, ÿ õîòåë áû, ÷òîáû âû êîðîòêî ïîäâåëè èòîãè âàøåé ðàáîòû, ñ àêöåíòîì, ñâÿçàííûì ñ òóðèçìîì è åãî ïàðàìåòðàìè, òàê êàê âàøå èíòåðâüþ îáðàùåíî ê ÷èòàòåëÿì æóðíàëà fly magazine. Êîíå÷íî, â íåñêîëüêèõ ñòðîêàõ íåâîçìîæíî ïîäâåñòè èòîãè ïðåáûâàíèÿ â äîëæíîñòè ìýðà, ñðîê êîòîðîãî èñòåêàåò ÷åðåç íåñêîëüêî ìåñÿöåâ. Êîðîòêî õîòåëîñü áû îòìåòèòü: â óñëîâèÿõ ãëóáîêîãî êðèçèñà, íàø ìóíèöèïàëèòåò ïðèäàë îñîáîå çíà÷åíèå ñîöèàëüíîé ïîëèòèêå, âñÿ÷åñêè ïîääåðæèâàÿ íàøèõ ñîãðàæäàí, íóæäàþùèõñÿ â ïîìîùè. Îäíèì èç ãëàâíûõ ïðèîðèòåòîâ íàøåé ïîëèòèêè ÿâëÿåòñÿ ñîöèàëüíàÿ ñîëèäàðíîñòü. Ìû ñâîåâðåìåííî îïðåäåëèëè, ÷òî âîïðîñ î äîïîëíèòåëüíîé ïîìîùè îò ìóíèöèïàëèòåòà ñîöèàëüíî óÿçâèìûì êàòåãîðèÿì íàñåëåíèÿ, ñòàíîâèòñÿ âñå îñòðåå. Íàìè áûëè ñîçäàíû íîâûå ñòðóêòóðû è ñäåëàíû áîëåå ýôåêòèâíûìè óæå èìåþùèåñÿ. Íåñìîòðÿ íà ñåðüåçíûå ýêîíîìè÷åñêèå ïðîáëåìû, ñ êîòîðûìè ìû ñòîëêíóëèñü, ìû ïðèíÿëè ó÷àñòèå â êðóïíûõ ìåæäóíàðîäíûõ òóðèñòè÷åñêèõ âûñòàâêàõ è öåëåíàïðàâëåííûõ òóðèñòè÷åñêèõ ðûíêàõ.  ñîòðóäíè÷åñòâå
ÓõíÝíôåõîç/ Interview/ Èíòåðâüþ The contribution of our Municipality in the development of the tourism product should be assessed not only in quantitative but also qualitative level, taking into account that a coordinated action plan aiming to build relations based on trust and reverse the negative view in our traditional markets is implemented. The regaining of a market share from Great Britain and Germany, two countries with the most tourists to Corfu, as well as a great increase in Russian tourists formed a safe field for the support of the tourist economy. Despite this review I would like to go a little deeper and ask which according to your opinion is the most important project during your mayoralty that took place here. On the other hand, what is your unfulfilled wish, your vision for this place, which -if implementedwould reward your contribution to the Administration? The last period before the ending of my service, despite the economic crisis, the dramatic decrease in resources imposed by the state to Local Administration, was a reorganization period for the big Municipality of Corfu that came after the union of former municipalities of Kapodistrias reform and diapontia islands. There were important steps in matters of infrastructure completion of drainage networks in the region, completion of the market hall and a series of large and small-scale projects- as well as in matters of organization. Today there are many infrastructure projects in progress and a tourism promotion plan that will give a greater boost to the island and will enhance tourism economy. Although more or less the markets to which the Ionian islands in general, and Corfu in particular, address are standard for years now, it is believed that there are also other markets that recently have developed an interesting drive and worth being approached. In particular, I refer to a series of Balkan countries and Russian market as well! As I mentioned above, except for the traditional markets, the Municipality gives emphasis on new markets, such as the Balkan countries and of course Russia. ASTRA AIRLINES is an airline that connects Corfu with Northern Greece and Thessaloniki. Have you ever referred, perhaps expressed your opinion about its contribution in the presence of visitors in the island from a place that has proven its strong bonds with your island? Every air connection to Corfu is a plus in the attempt for tourism development. The connection of Northern Greece and Thessaloniki to our island, via ASTRA AIRLINES supports the island of Corfu both in Greek and International markets. Are you optimistic about the future Mr. Mayor? Do you think that this summer may be a starting point for a developmental course both in financial and politicalcultural level? I am positive about the future and I believe that our country and in particular our island will experience better days. I would like to close this interview with a 'moto' from you that reflect your life in general and that you use very often in your everyday life. The Municipality should be close to citizens, with the citizens in joint attempts for the benefit of this island. We should excel ourselves, exploit any strength and hope left, not succumb before the obstacles and not deprive our co-citizens from any dream.
188 betterfly magazine
ñ Ìèòðîïîëèåé ã.Êåðêèðà ìû ïðèäàåì îñîáîå çíà÷åíèå è ðåëèãèîçíîìó òóðèçìó. Ðåçóëüòàòû íàøèõ óñèëèé îáíàäåæèâàþò íàñ. Òàêèì îáðàçîì, òóðèçì íà Êîðôó, íåñìîòðÿ íà íåãàòèâíîå âîçäåéñòâèå ìèðîâîãî ôèíàíñîâîãî êðèçèñà è ïðîäîëæàþùåãîñÿ ñïàäà ãðå÷åñêîé ýêîíîìèêè, ïîêàçàë óäèâèòåëüíóþ ïðî÷íîñòü, îòîáðàæàÿ òðàåêòîðèþ ðîñòà. Îöåíèòü âêëàä íàøåãî ìóíèöèïàëèòåòà â ðàçâèòèå òóðèçìà ñëåäóåò íå òîëüêî â êîëè÷åñòâåííîì îòíîøåíèè, íî ïðåæäå âñåãî è íà óðîâíå êà÷åñòâà. Ìû ïðèëàãàåì âñå óñèëèÿ, ÷òîáû óêðåïèòü äîâåðèå è èçìåíåíèòü îòðèöàòåëüíóþ àòìîñôåðó íà íàøèõ òðàäèöèîííûõ ðûíêàõ. Âîññòàíîâëåíèå ïðèòîêà òóðèñòîâ èç Àíãëèè è Ãåðìàíèè, ñòðàí, êîòîðûå ÿâëÿþòñÿ îäíèìè èç êëþ÷åâûõ ðûíêîâ äëÿ Êîðôó, è çíà÷èòåëüíûé ðîñò ðîññèéñêîãî òóðèñòè÷åñêîãî ïîòîêà, ñîçäàëè áëàãîïðèÿòíûå óñëîâèÿ äëÿ ïîääåðæêè íàøåé ýêîíîìèêè. Ïîìèìî ïîäâåäåíèÿ èòîãîâ ÿ õîòåë áû ñïðîñèòü, êàêèå èç ïðîäåëàííûõ âàìè ðàáîò íà îñòðîâå, çà âðåìÿ âàøåãî ïðåáûâàíèÿ íà ïîñòó ìýðà, âû ñ÷èòàåòå íàèáîëåå âàæíûìè ? Ñ äðóãîé ñòîðîíû, ÷òî îñòàåòñÿ äëÿ âàñ íåâûïîëíåííûì æåëàíèåì, çðèìîé ìå÷òîé, îñóùåñòâëåíèå êîòîðîé, ïî-âàøåìó ìíåíèþ, îöåíèëî áû ïðîéäåííûé âàìè ïóòü. Çàâåðøàåòñÿ ïåðèîä âðåìåíè, êîòîðûé êðîìå ýêîíîìè÷åñêîãî êðèçèñà, ðåçêîãî ñîêðàùåíèÿ ðåñóðñîâ ïîñòóïàþùèõ îò ãîñóäàðñòâà ê îðãàíàì ìåñòíîãî ñàìîóïðàâëåíèÿ, áûë òàêæå ïåðèîäîì îðãàíèçàöèè áîëüøîãî ìóíèöèïàëèòåòà Êîðôó, íåîáõîäèìîñòü â êîòîðîì âîçíèêëà ïîñëå îáúåäèíåíèÿ âñåõ ìóíèöèïàëèòåòîâ. Áûëè ïðîâåäåíû ñåðüåçíûå ðàáîòû ïî ìîäåðíèçàöèè è ðåêîíñòðóêöèè îáúåêòîâ êîììóíàëüíîé èíôðàñòðóêòóðû. Îêîí÷åíû ðàáîòû ïî ðàñøèðåíèþ öåíòðàëèçîâàííîé êàíàëèçàöèîííîé ñåòè â ðåãèîíå, ñòðîèòåëüñòâî ðûíêà è öåëûé ðÿä áîëüøèõ è ìàëûõ ðàáîò, â òîì ÷èñëå, è íà îðãàíèçàöèîííîì óðîâíå. Íà ñåãîäíÿøèé äåíü â ñòàäèè ðåàëèçàöèè íàõîäÿòñÿ ìíîæåñòâî èíôðàñòðóêòóðíûõ ïðîåêòîâ è ïðîåêò â ñôåðå òóðèçìà, ÷òî äàñò ìîùíûé èìïóëüñ ðàçâèòèþ òóðèçìà â ðåãèîíå. Èçâåñòíû êëþ÷åâûå òóðèñòè÷åñêèå ðûíêè, êîòîðûå íà ïðîòÿæåíèè ìíîãèõ ëåò ïîñòàâëÿþò áîëüøîå ÷èñëî òóðèñòîâ íà Èîíè÷åñêèå îñòðîâà â öåëîì è, â ÷àñòíîñòè, Êîðôó. Ñ÷èòàåòñÿ, îäíàêî, ÷òî âîçìîæíî ïðèâëå÷åíèå è äðóãèõ ðûíêîâ, êîòîðûå ñ íåäàâíåãî âðåìåíè èìåþò òàêæå èíòåðåñíóþ äèíàìèêó ðîñòà. ß ññûëàþñü íà íåêîòîðûå Áàëêàíñêèå ñòðàíû, à òàêæå íà ðîññèéñêèé ðûíîê. Êàê ÿ óæå óïîìèíàë âûøå, ïîìèìî òðàäèöèîííûõ ðûíêîâ, íàø ìóíèöèïàëèòåò àêöåíòèðóåò ñâîå âíèìàíèå è íà ðàçâèòèè íîâûõ òóðèñòè÷åñêèõ ðûíêîâ, òàêèõ êàê Áàëêàíñêèå ñòðàíû è, êîíå÷íî, Ðîññèÿ. ASTRA AIRLINES âëÿåòñÿ àâèàêîìïàíèåé, ñîåäèíÿþùåé Êîðôó ñ Ñåâåðíîé Ãðåöèåé è ã.Ñàëîíèêè. Âû æåëàåòå âûñêàçàòü ñâîå ìíåíèå ïî ïîâîäó òîãî, êàêóþ ðîëü âíîñèò àâèàêîìïàíèÿ â ïðèâëå÷åíèå ïîñåòèòåëåé íà îñòðîâ èç ãåîãðàôè÷åñêîé îáëàñòè, èìåþùåé òåñíûå ñâÿçè ñ âàøèì ðåãèîíîì? Ðåãóëÿðíûå àâèàðåéñû íà Êîðôó ÿâëÿþòñÿ ïðåèìóùåñòâîì äëÿ ðàçâèòèÿ òóðèçìà â ðåãèîíå. Àâèàêîìïàíèÿ ASTRA AIRLINES, âûïîëíÿþùàÿ ðåãóëÿðíûå ðåéñû èç Ñåâåðíîé Ãðåöèè è ã.Ñàëîíèêè íà îñòðîâ, óêðåïëÿåò ïîçèöèè Êîðôó íà ãðå÷åñêîì è ìåæäóíàðîäíîì ðûíêàõ. Ã-í ìýð, âû ñ îïòèìèçìîì ñìîòðèòå â áóäóùåå? Âû ñ÷èòàåòå, ÷òî íàñòóïàþùåå ëåòî ñìîæåò ñòàòü òðàìïëèíîì äëÿ ðàçâèòèÿ ýêîíîìèêè, ïîëèòè÷åñêîãî è êóëüòóðíîãî ðîñòà? ß íàäåþñü, ÷òî Ãðåöèÿ è íàø ðåãèîí ñòîèò íà ïîðîãå ïåðåìåí ê ëó÷øåìó. Õîòåëîñü áû çàâåðøèòü ýòî èíòåðâüþ âàøèì "äåâèçîì" , êîòîðîå âû ÷àñòî èñïîëüçóåòå â âàøåé ïîâñåäíåâíîé æèçíè. Ìóíèöèïàëèòåò ðÿäîì ñ æèòåëÿìè, âìåñòå ñ æèòåëÿìè â îáùåì äåëå íà áëàãî ñòðàíû. Ìû äîëæíû ïðåâçîéòè ñåáÿ, ïðèëîæèòü âñå îñòàâøèåñÿ óñèëèÿ è íå òåðÿòü íàäåæäó. Ìû íå äîëæíû áîÿòüñÿ ïðåïÿòñòâèé íà íàøåì ïóòè è íå èìååì ïðàâà ëèøàòü íàøèõ ñîîòå÷åñòâåííèêîâ èõ ìå÷òû!
The betterfly list
Oxette
Back to Eden Ç Oxette õðïäÝ÷åôáé ôçí Üíïéîç êáé ôï êáëïêáßñé ìå ôçí óõëëïãÞ, Back to Eden. ÅìðíåõóìÝíç áðü êÜèå óôïé÷åßï ôçò öýóçò ôïí êáèáñü ïõñáíü, ôï êáèáñü ãáëÜæéï, ôçí Þñåìç ãáëÜæéá èÜëáóóá, ôá ëáìðåñÜ öýëëá êáé ôïõò ôñïðéêïýò ðáñáäåßóïõò. Ãíùñßóôå ôïí åáõôü óáò. Ãßíåôå äñáóôÞñéåò, áíáêáëýøôå ìïíáäéêïýò ôñüðïõò ãéá íá îåöýãåôå áðü ôçí ðüëç. Ãéá ëÜìøç, áéóèçóéáóìü, áðïðëÜíçóç êáé ãïçôåßá, ç Oxette óáò äßíåé ìáèÞìáôá óôõë! www.oxette.gr
Back to Eden Oxette introduces the spring and the summer with the collection back to Eden. Inspired by all things nature, clear sky, serene blue, calm blue sea, shiny leaves, and tropical paradise. Functionality, comfort and quality are the keys of our design. "What we wear definitely makes a difference and completes our style. For flash, sensual, seductive and glam this season spring summer, Oxette hits the stage in style! www.oxette.gr Âîçâðàùåíèå â Ýäåì! Êîìïàíèÿ Oxette ïðèâåòñòâóåò âåñíó è ëåòî êîëëåêöèåé Back to Edem, âäîõíîâëåííîé êàæäûì ýëåìåíòîì ïðèðîäû: ÿðêîé ñèíåâîé ÷èñòîãî ëåòíåãî íåáà, ñïîêîéíûì ñèíèì ìîðåì, áëåñòÿùèìè çåëåíûìè ëèñòüÿìè è òðîïè÷åñêèì ðàåì. Ïîçíàéòå ñåáÿ. Áóäüòå àêòèâíûìè, îáíàðóæüòå óíèêàëüíûå âîçìîæíîñòè îòäûõà îò ãîðîäñêîé ñóåòû. Èçäåëèÿ îò Oxette ïðèäàäóò âàì íåïîâòîðèìûé øàðì è áëåñê, ÷óâñòâåííîñòü, î÷àðîâàíèå, ïîä÷åðêíóò âàøó èíäèâèäóàëüíîñòü! www.oxette.gr
FEMME FATALE ¼ôáí ç ðåñéðïßçóç ãßíåôáé ðñáãìáôéêÞ áðüëáõóç ôüôå óßãïõñá óáò öñïíôßæïõí óôï óýã÷ñïíï êÝíôñï áéóèçôéêÞò Femme Fatale Óôï ÷þñï ôïõò èá áíáêáëýøåôå ôçí ðïéüôçôá ðïõ æçôÜôå óôçí ðáñï÷Þ õðçñåóéþí, ìå ôá ðéï óýã÷ñïíá, ôåëåõôáßáò ôå÷íïëïãßáò ìç÷áíÞìáôá, ìå ðñïúüíôá ðïõ ðåñéÝ÷ïõí Üñéóôá åðéëåãìÝíá óõóôáôéêÜ êáé ôï ðéï åîåéäéêåõìÝíï ðñïóùðéêü, þóôå íá áöåèåßôå ìå åìðéóôïóýíç óôçí áðüëáõóç ìéáò åîáôïìéêåõìÝíçò ðåñéðïßçóçò. ÅðéëÝîôå íá ðåñéðïéçèåßôå óôï Femme Fatale ãéá íá áíáäåßîåôå ôç «ìïéñáßá ãõíáßêá» ðïõ êñýâåôå ìÝóá óáò, ãéáôß ç ðåñéðïßçóç åßíáé áíÜãêç êáé ü÷é ðïëõôÝëåéá. ÈåïôïêÜ 3, Èåóóáëïíßêç, (Íïôéá Ðýëç ÄÅÈ) Ô: 2310-240610
When care becomes a real pleasure it is certain that you are in the modern Beauty Lounge «Femme Fatale». There you will find the quality you need in services, the most modern last-technology equipment, products with carefully selected ingredients and the most specialized staff, so as to let yourself in the pleasure of personal care. Choose «Femme Fatale» for your personal care and show off the «femme fatal» that you hide, since taking care of yourself is a need for you and not luxury. Theotoka 3, Thessaloniki, T: 2310-240610
190 betterfly magazine
Åñëè âû ÷óâñòâóåòå, ÷òî óõîä çà òåëîì âàì ïðèíîñèò íåâûðàçèìîå óäîâîëüñòâèå, çíà÷èò âû íàõîäèòåñü â ñîâðåìåííîì êîñìåòîëîãè÷åñêîì öåíòðå Femme Fatale. Çäåñü âû íàéäåòå íåïðåâçîéäåííîå êà÷åñòâî óñëóã! Îïûòíûå êîñìåòîëîãè îêðóæàò âàñ çàáîòîé è ïðîôåññèîíàëüíûì èíäèâèäóàëüíûì óõîäîì ñ ïîìîùüþ ñàìûõ ñîâðåìåííûõ àïïàðàòîâ, ëó÷øèõ êîñìåòè÷åñêèõ ñðåäñòâ, ñîäåðæàùèõ òîëüêî îòáîðíûå, âûñîêîãî êà÷åñòâà èãðèäèåíòû, äëÿ òîãî, ÷òîáû âû íàñëàäèëèñü ïðîöåññîì îìîëîæåíèÿ. Âûáèðàéòå ëó÷øèé óõîä ñ Femme Fatale è âû óäèâèòåñü, îáíàðóæèâ â ñåáå «ðîêîâóþ æåíùèíó», êîòîðàÿ «ïðÿ÷åòñÿ» âíóòðè âàñ. Óõîä çà òåëîì - ýòî íå ðîñêîøü, ýòî íåîáõîäèìîñòü. Ôåîòîêà 3 Ñàëîíèêè, Ô: 2310-240610
Diamantis ¼íïìá óôáèìüò óôçí áíäñéêÞ ìüäá ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò, Ýíá üíïìá ðïõ êõñéáñ÷åß áðü ôç äåêáåôßá ôïõ ´70. Ó Ýíáí ðñáãìáôéêÜ ìïíáäéêü ÷þñï, ìéá óåéñÜ ïëïêëçñùìÝíåò áíäñéêÝò ðñïôÜóåéò ôùí óçìáíôéêüôåñùí ïíïìÜôùí ôïõ äéåèíïýò fashion system: BRIONI, RAVAZZOLO, PAL ZILERI, VERSACE, COLLECTION CORNELIANI, ROBERTO CAVALLI, GALLIANO, CORTIGIANI, MESSORI, FABI êáé BOTTICELLI åßíáé ìåñéêÝò áðü ôéò äéÜóçìåò õðïãñáöÝò ðïõ öéëïîåíïýíôáé åäþ. Êáé åðéðëÝïí óôï êáôÜóôçìá "Diamantis" ìðïñåßôå íá ðëçñïöïñçèåßôå ãéá üëåò ôéò äõíáôüôçôåò ðïõ ðáñÝ÷åé ç õðçñåóßá Made To Measure, ìå ôçí ïðïßá ìðïñåßôå íá áðïêôÞóåôå åðþíõìá ñïý÷á öôéáãìÝíá óôá ìÝôñá óáò! ÔóéìéóêÞ 43, Åìðïñéêü êÝíôñï «Ðëáôåßá», Èåóóáëïíßêç Ô: 2310 288409
A landmark in men's fashion in Thessaloniki and a name that prevails since the '70s. In a really unique space with a series of men's head-to-toe looks from the most famous brands in the international fashion system: BRIONI, RAVAZZOLO, PAL ZILERI, VERSACE, COLLECTION CORNELIANI, ROBERTO CAVALLI, GALLIANO, CORTIGIANI, MESSORI, FABI and BOTTICELL are some of the famous brands sold here. Moreover, at 'Diamantis' stores you can learn more about Made To Measure services provided and get custom-made famous brand clothes! 43, Tsimiski St., 'Plateia' Shopping Mall, Thessaloniki Ô: 2310 288409
ÏðôéêÜ ÆùãñÜöïò Äåßôå ôïí êüóìï ìå Üëëá ìÜôéá, ìå ãõáëéÜ ïñÜóåùò áðü ôï êáôÜóôçìá ïðôéêþí ÆùãñÜöïò. Ôï åðéóôçìïíéêü ðñïóùðéêü èá öñïíôßóåé ãéá ôçí êÜëõøç ôçò éáôñéêÞò óõíôáãÞò êáé èá áíáëÜâåé ôï service ôùí ãõáëéþí óáò ìå óõíÝðåéá êáé ðñïóï÷Þ óôç ëåðôïìÝñåéá. Åðéóêåöôåßôå ôï êáôÜóôçìá ÆùãñÜöïò êáé åðéëÝîôå ôá åðüìåíá ãõáëéÜ óáò ìÝóá áðü ôçí ïëïêáßíïõñãéá êé åíçìåñùìÝíç ãêÜìá ôçò íÝáò ðáñáëáâÞò. Åñìïý 77, Èåóóáëïíßêç, Ô: 2310 281456
Zografos optical See the world diffirently, with prescriptions and sun-glasses from Zografos optical. Our scientifically trained personnel will fill out your prescription and will also service your glasses with care and attention to detail. Visit Zografos Optical and choose your next glasses from our brand new and always up-to- date range of new arrivals. 77 Ermou, Str, Thessaloniki, Ô: 2310 281456
ìàãàçèí «Çîãðàôîñ» Ïîñìîòðèòå íà ìèð äðóãèìè ãëàçàìè, ñ ïîìîùüþ î÷êîâ îïòèêè «Çîãðàôîñ». Íàó÷íûå ñîòðóäíèêè ïîçàáîòÿòñÿ î âûïîëíåíèè òîãî, ÷òî óêàçàíî â ðåöåïòå, âûäàííîì âðà÷îì, à òàêæå è âîçüìóò íà ñåáÿ service âàøèõ î÷êîâ ñ îòâåòñòâåííîñòüþ è âíèìàíèåì ê äåòàëÿì. Ïîñåòèòå ìàãàçèí «Çîãðàôîñ» è âûáåðåòå âàøè ñëåäóþùèå î÷êè èç íîâîãî è îáíîâëåííîãî ñïåêòðà íîâûõ äîñòàâîê. óë.Ýðìó 77, Ñàëîíèêàõ, Ô: 2310 281456
Ìàãàçèí "Diamantis". Ìàãàçèí ìóæñêîé îäåæäû «Diamantis» - ýòî âåõà â ìóæñêîé ìîäå â ã. Ñàëîíèêè. Ýòî èìÿ, êîòîðîå äîìèíèðóåò íà ãðå÷åñêîì ðûíêå ìàãàçèíîâ îäåæäû ñ 70-õ ãîäîâ.  ñòèëüíîì ïîìåùåíèè, êîòîðîå áóêâàëüíî èçëó÷àåò ðîñêîøü, ïðåäñòàâëåíû áëåñòÿùèå îáðàçöû îäåæäû ñàìûõ èçâåñòíûõ åâðîïåéñêèõ Äîìîâ ìîäû: BRIONI, RAVAZZOLO.PAL ZILERI, VERSACE, COLLECTION CORNELIANI, ROBERTO CAVALLI, GALLIANO, CORTIGIANI, MESSORI, FABI... BOTTICELL íåêîòîðûå èç èçâåñòíûõ «ôèðìåííûõ ïîäïèñåé», îðèåíòèðîâàííûõ íà ïðåäñòàâèòåëåé ìóæñêîé ïîëîâèíû îáùåñòâà. Òàêæå â ìàãàçèíå ìóæñêîé îäåæäû «Diamantis» âû ìîæåòå ïîëó÷èòü èíôîðìàöèþ îá óñëóãå «Made To Measure», áëàãîäàðÿ êîòîðîé âû ìîæåòå ïðèîáðåñòè îäåæäó èçâåñòíûõ ôèðì, ñøèòóþ íà çàêàç! Àäðåñ: ã. Ñàëîíèêè. Òîðãîâûé öåíòð «Ïëàòèà», óë. Öèìèñêè, 43. Ô: 2310 288409
The betterfly list
×áôæçéùÜííïõ öùôéóôéêÜ
Chatziioannou For more than 5 decades, Chatzioannou & Sons Company is synonymous with high standard lighting. The long experience and know-how are combined with an impressive showroom of 900 m2 where creations of Greek manufacturers are presented as well as proposals from Italy and Spain. Our cooperation with recognized suppliers, such as Swarovski ensures not only functionality and high taste but also the top quality and great endurance of our products, which carry a long guarantee. The great variety of classic and modern indoor and outdoor lights for houses or businesses with emphasis on hotel equipment complete our custom-made proposals… 123 Leoforos Georgikis Scholis (700m from ÉÊÅÁnear the airport) Thessaloniki, T.2310 473601 T.2310 473621 F.2310 473920
Õàäçèèîàííó Ñâåò
Ãéá ðåñéóóüôåñï áðü 5 äåêáåôßåò, ç åôáéñßá ×áôæçéùÜííïõ & Õéïß áðïôåëåß óõíþíõìï ôïõ öùôéóìïý õøçëþí áðáéôÞóåùí. Ç ìáêñü÷ñïíç åìðåéñßá êáé ç ôå÷íïãíùóßá óõíäõÜæïíôáé ìå Ýíáí åíôõðùóéáêü åêèåóéáêü ÷þñï 900ôì, üðïõ ðáñïõóéÜæïíôáé äçìéïõñãßåò ÅëëÞíùí êáôáóêåõáóôþí, áëëÜ êáé ðñïôÜóåéò áðü ôçí Éôáëßá êáé ôçí Éóðáíßá. Ïé óõíåñãáóßåò ìå äéáêåêñéìÝíïõò ðñïìçèåõôÝò, üðùò ç Swarovski, äéáóöáëßæïõí ôüóï ôç ëåéôïõñãéêüôçôá êáé ôçí õøçëÞ áéóèçôéêÞ üóï êáé ôçí êïñõöáßá ðïéüôçôá êáé ôç ìåãÜëç áíôï÷Þ ôùí ðñïúüíôùí ìáò, ôá ïðïßá êáëýðôïíôáé áðü äéÜ âßïõ åããýçóç. Ôç ãêÜìá ôùí êëáóéêþí êáé ìïíôÝñíùí öùôéóôéêþí åóùôåñéêïý êáé åîùôåñéêïý ÷þñïõ, ïéêéáêïý Þ åðáããåëìáôéêïý ýöïõò, ìå Ýìöáóç óôïí îåíïäï÷åéáêü åîïðëéóìü, ïëïêëçñþíïõí ïé custom-made ðñïôÜóåéò.. Ë. ÃåùñãéêÞò Ó÷ïëÞò 123, Èåóóáëïíßêç T.2310 473601 T.2310 473621 F.2310 473920
Íà ïðîòÿæåíèè áîëåå 50 ëåò èìÿ êîìïàíèè Õàäçèèîàííó è ñûíîâüÿ ÿâëÿåòñÿ ñèíîíèìîì âûñîêîêà÷åñòâåííîãî îñâåùåíèÿ. Åå ìíîãîëåòíèé îïûò è òåõíè÷åñêèå çíàíèÿ îáúåäèíèëèñü âî âïå÷àòëÿþùåì âûñòàâî÷íîì öåíòðå ïëîùàäüþ 900 êâ.ì., ãäå ïðåäñòàâëåíû òâîðåíèÿ ãðå÷åñêèõ ïðîèçâîäèòåëåé, à òàêæå ïðåäëîæåíèÿ èç Èòàëèè è Èñïàíèè. Ñîòðóäíè÷åñòâî ñ âûäàþùèìèñÿ ïàðòíåðàìèïîñòàâùèêàìè, òàêèìè êàê Swarovski îáåñïå÷èâàåò íå òîëüêî õîðîøóþ ðàáîòîñïîñîáíîñòü è ñòèëüíûé âíåøíèé âèä, íî è íàèâûñøåå êà÷åñòâî è áîëüøóþ ïðî÷íîñòü íàøèõ òîâàðîâ, êîòîðûå èìåþò ïîæèçíåííóþ ãàðàíòèþ.  öåíòðå ïðåäñòàâëåíà îãðîìíàÿ ãàììà êëàññè÷åñêèõ è ñîâðåìåííûõ îñâåòèòåëüíûõ ïðèáîðîâ äëÿ âíóòðåííèõ è íàðóæíèõ ïîìåùåíèé, äëÿ äîìà è îôèñà, îãðîìíûé âûáîð ñâåòîâûõ ïðèáîðîâ äëÿ ãîñòèíèö, à òàêæå òîâàðû, èçãîòîâëåííûå ïî èíäèâèäóàëüíûì çàêàçàì êëèåíòîâ. Ëåîôîðîñ Ãåîðãèêèñ Ñõîëèñ, ä. 123 (700 ì îò ìàãàçèíà . â ðàéîíå àýðîïîðòà)Ñàëîíèêè T.2310 473601 T.2310 473621 F.2310 473920
Yfantidis In 1930 'Yfantidis' family created the head office of the business in the city of Thessaloniki and they are still making their presence felt in a dynamic way in the field of footwear. Now they are next to you with a new store 'Slippers and More' which is updated and more close to the taste of the young people. At 'Yfantidis' mules stores you will find products that are synonymous with quality and reasonable prices. Aiming to satisfy their good consumers who support them for 80 years now, they continue to always offer what is best for them with a big collection of slippers and footwear that address to women, men and children. 55 Tsimiski str., 38 Mitropoleos str., Thessaloniki, Ô: 2310 223001
Õöáíôßäçò Áðü ôï Ýôïò 1930, ç ïéêïãÝíåéá Õöáíôßäç äçìéïýñãçóå ôçí Ýäñá ôçò åôáéñåßáò ôçò óôçí ðüëç ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò êáé óõíå÷ßæåé äõíáìéêÜ ôçí ðáñïõóßá ôçò óôï ÷þñï ôïõ õðïäÞìáôïò. Ôþñá åßíáé äéðëÜ óáò êáé ìå Ýíá êáéíïýñéï êáôÜóôçìá, áíáíåùìÝíï, êïíôÜ óôéò ðñïôéìÞóåéò êáé ôïõ íåáíéêïý êïéíïý, ôï Slippers and More. Óôá êáôáóôÞìáôá ðáóïõìéþí “Õöáíôßäçò” èá âñåßôå ðñïúüíôá óõíþíõìá ôçò ðïéüôçôáò êáé ôçò ðñïóéôÞò ôéìÞò. Ìå óôü÷ï íá éêáíïðïéÞóåé ôï ðéóôü åðß 80 ÷ñüíéá êáôáíáëùôéêü êïéíü ôçò, óõíå÷ßæåé íá ðñïóöÝñåé ðÜíôá ôï êáëýôåñï, ìå ìéá ìåãÜëç óõëëïãÞ ðïõ ðåñéëáìâÜíåé ðáíôüöëåò êáé õðïäÞìáôá ãõíáßêåéá, áíäñéêÜ êáé ðáéäéêÜ. ÔóéìéóêÞ 55, Ìçôñïðüëåùò 38, Èåóóáëïíßêç, Ô: 2310 223001
192 betterfly magazine
Èôàíòèäè Íà÷èíàÿ ñ 1930 ãîäà êîìïàíèÿ ñåìüè Èôàíòèäè ïðåäñòàâëåíà íà îáóâíîì ðûíêå ãîðîäà Ñàëîíèêè, óñïåøíî ðàçâèâàÿñü â ýòîì ñåãìåíòå. À òåïåðü äëÿ âàñ îòêðûò íîâûé ìàãàçèí Slippers and More, êîòîðûé îòâå÷àåò âñåì ñîâðåìåííûì òåíäåíöèÿì ìîäû, ÷òî áóäåò èíòåðåñíî è ìîëîäûì ïîêóïàòåëÿì.  ìàãàçèíàõ äîìàøíèåé îáóâè Èôàíòèäèñ âû íàéäåòå òîâàðû, êîòîðûå ÿâëÿþòñÿ ñèíîíèìàìè êà÷åñòâà è äîñòóïíûõ öåí. Ñ öåëüþ óäîâëåòâîðèòü çàïðîñû ñâîèõ âåðíûõ íà ïðîòÿæåíèè 80 ëåò êëèåíòîâ, â ìàãàçèíàõ ïðåäñòàâëåíû òîëüêî ñàìûå ëó÷øèå òîâàðû èç îãðîìíîé êîëëåêöèè æåíñêîé, ìóæñêîé, äåòñêîé è äîìàøíåé îáóâè. óëèöà Öèìèñêè, 55, óëèöà Ìèòðîïîëåîñ, 38, ã. Ñàëîíèêè Ô: 2310 223001
ÇëÝêôñá
Electra
Ôï ìåôáöñáóôéêü ãñáöåßï "ÇëÝêôñá" äñáóôçñéïðïéåßôáé óôïí ôïìÝá ôùí ìåôáöñÜóåùí êáé ôùí äéåñìçíåéþí áðü ôï 2000 óôçí ðüëç ôçò Èåóóáëïíßêçò. ÓÞìåñá åßíáé ìßá éäéáßôåñá äõíáìéêÜ áíáðôõóóüìåíç åôáéñåßá ìå ðëÞèïò óõíåñãáæüìåíåò ÅëëçíéêÝò êáé îÝíåò åðé÷åéñÞóåéò, ôñÜðåæåò, äçìüóéåò õðçñåóßåò êáé öõóéêÜ ðñüóùðá. Åßíáé ìÝëïò ôçò äéåèíïýò Ïìïóðïíäßáò Ìåôáöñáóôþí (FIT) êáé ôçò ÐáíåëëÞíéáò ¸íùóçò Ìåôáöñáóôþí (ÐÅÌ). Ç åðéëïãÞ ôçò óõíåñãáóßáò ìáæß ìáò, ðáñÝ÷åé ìßá óåéñÜ óôÜíôáñ, ðïõ ôçí êáèéóôïýí åîáéñåôéêÜ áîéüðéóôç, áóöáëÞ êáé Üíåôç. ÁñéóôïôÝëïõò 24Á Èåóóáëïíßêç, 54623, ÅëëÜäá. Ô.:(+30) 2310-23-25-50, (+30) 6932474775 electra.filippidou@gmail.com, electra-filippid@mail.ru www.electra-translations.gr
Translation company "Electra" is wellknown since the year 2000. Today it is a dynamic and successful company in Greece. We cooperate with state organizations, banks, foreign and Greek companies and private customers. Our translation agency is a member of the International Federation of Translators (FIT) and a member of the Panhellenic Association of Translators (ÏÅÌ). We are reliable, convenient and cost-effective! We guarantee your success! 24A Aristotelous St., Thessaloniki, 54623, Greece Tel.:(+30) 2310-23-25-50 (+30) 6932474775 electra.filippidou@gmail.com, electra-filippid@mail.ru www.electra-translations.gr
Ýëåêòðà Áþðî ïåðåâîäîâ «Ýëåêòðà» äåéñòâóåò ñ 2000 ãîäà. Ñåãîäíÿ ýòî äèíàìè÷íî ðàçâèâàþùàÿñÿ è óñïåøíàÿ êîìïàíèÿ â ñôåðå óñòíîãî è ïèñüìåííîãî ïåðåâîäà â Ãðåöèè. Ñîòðóäíè÷àåì ñ ãîñóäàðñòâåííûìè îðãàíèçàöèÿìè, áàíêàìè, èíîñòðàííûìè è ãðå÷åñêèìè êîìïàíèÿìè è ÷àñòíûìè ëèöàìè. Áþðî ïåðåâîäîâ - ÷ëåí Ìåæäóíàðîäíîé Ôåäåðàöèè Ïåðåâîä÷èêîâ (FIT) è Âñåãðå÷åñêîãî Ñîþçà Ïåðåâîä÷èêîâ (ÏÅÌ). Ñîòðóäíè÷àòü ñ íàìè íàäåæíî, óäîáíî è âûãîäíî! Ãðåöèÿ, Ñàëîíèêè, 54623, Àðèñòîòåëÿ 24À Òåë.: (+30)2310232-550 (+30)963247-47-75 electra.filippidou@gmail.com, electra-filippid@mail.ru www.electra-translations.gr
Mag êïóìÞìáôá Ï ïßêïò mag ðñïÜãåé ìéá áõôüíïìç êïõëôïýñá ðïõ âáóßæåôáé óôçí äéáöïñïðïßçóç êáé ôçí óõíå÷Þ åîÝëéîç. Áõôü ðïõ Ý÷åé ôïëìÞóåé åßíáé íá óõíäõÜóåé ôï ôïëìçñü ýöïò êáé ôï Ýíôïíï ÷ñþìá ìå ôçí âáñýôçôá ôïõ ðïëõôåëïýò êïóìÞìáôïò. ×ñçóéìïðïéþíôáò áðïêëåéóôéêÜ ðïëýôéìá ìÝôáëëá êáé ëßèïõò ç åôáéñåßá ùóôüóï ðñïôåßíåé ìéá êáéíïôïìßá óôçí ðáñÜäïóç ôïõ êïóìÞìáôïò ðïõ èÝëåé ôï «âáñý» íá óõíåðÜãåôáé ëåõêü÷ñõóï êáé ìðñéãéÜí. ÐåñÜ üìùò áðü ôá ìáýñá êáé cognac äéáìÜíôéá, ôïõò áìÝèõóôïõò êáé ôá ñïæ æáöåßñéá, ôïí ìáýñï êáé ôïí ñïæ ÷ñõóü, óôá êáôáóôÞìáôá mag óõíáíôÜ êÜíåéò ìéá èåôéêÞ åíåñãåßá ðïõ êáëùóïñßæåé ôïí Üíèñùðï êïíôÜ óôï ðïëýôéìï êüóìçìá êáé ôïí ïéêåéïðïéåß ìáæß ôïõ. Èåóóáëïíßêç, Ìçôñïðüëåùò 68 T. 2310 - 220061, F. 2310 - 220071 ÊÝñêõñá Èåïôüêç Íéêçöüñïõ 36, T. 26610 43580, F. 26610 28047 ÊÝñêõñá Chandris Hotel, T. 26610 93137, F. 26610 97230 ÊÝñêõñá Corfu Holiday ÊÝñêõñá Palace Hotel. T. 26610 43042
Mag jewelry Mag firm promotes an independent culture that is based on differentiation and continuous development. What it has succeeded to do is to combine bold style and vivid colors with the imposingness of a luxurious jewel. Even though the company is using exclusively precious metals and gemstones, it now makes an innovation in the jewel tradition that used to equate imposing jewels with platinum and brilliants. However, besides black and cognac diamonds, amethysts and pink sapphires, black and pink gold that one can see at mag stores, he can feel the surrounding positive energy that makes him comfortable and get acquainted with the precious jewels. Thessaloniki 68, Mitropoleos, T. 2310 - 220061, F. 2310 - 220071 Corfu 36, Nik. Theotoki, T. 26610 43580 F. 26610 28047 Corfu Chandris Hotel, T. 26610 93137, F. 26610 97230 Corfu Corfu Holiday Corfu Palace Hotel, T. 26610 43042
Óêðàøåíèÿ Mag Þâåëèðíûé äîì mag ÷åðåç ñâîè ýêñêëþçèâíûå þâåëèðíûå óêðàøåíèÿ âûðàæàåò ñîáñòâåííûé ñòèëü è êóëüòóðó, îñíîâàííóþ íà íåïðåðûâíîé äèôôåðåíöèàöèè è ýâîëþöèè. Îí ïîøåë íà íåîðäèíàðíîå ðåøåíèå ñîâìåñòèòü ñìåëûé ñòèëü è èíòåíñèâíûå öâåòà ñ ñîëèäíîñòüþ ðîñêîøíûõ þâåëèðíûõ èçäåëèé. Èñïîëüçóÿ òîëüêî äðàãîöåííûå ìåòàëëû è êàìíè, þâåëèðíûé äîì mag ïðåäëàãàåò èííîâàöèîííûå þâåëèðíûå èçäåëèÿ âîïðåêè òðàäèöèè, äèêòóþùåé èñïîëüçîâàíèå ïëàòèíû è áðèëëèàíòîâ äëÿ ñîçäàíèÿ "ñîëèäíîãî" óêðàøåíèÿ. Êðîìå ÷åðíûõ è êîíüÿ÷íûõ áðèëëèàíòîâ, àìåòèñòîâ, ðîçîâûõ ñàïôèðîâ, ÷åðíîãî è ðîçîâîãî çîëîòà, â ìàãàçèíàõ þâåëèðíîãî äîìà mag ïðåîáëàäàåò ïîëîæèòåëüíàÿ àóðà, ïðèâåòñòâóþùàÿ è îáúåäèíÿþùåãî ÷åëîâåêà è ñ äðàãîöåííûìè óêðàøåíèÿìè. Ñàëîíèêè Ìèòðîïîëåîñ 68, Ò: 2310 - 220061, Ô: 2310 220071 Êîðôó Íèê.Ôåîòîêè 36, Ò: 26610 43580, Ô: 26610 28047 Êîðôó ×àíäðèñ Îòåëü, Ò: 26610 93137, Ô: 26610 97230 Êîðôó Êîðôó Õîëèäåé Êîðôó Ïàëàñ Îòåëü, Ò: 26610 43042
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7 ÈÜëáóóåò ¸íá ôáîßäé ãåõóôéêþí áðïëáýóåùí ó Ýíá åóôéáôüñéï èáëáóóéíþí, ðïõ êáôÝ÷åé åðÜîéá ôçí êïñõöáßá èÝóç óôçí êáôçãïñßá ôïõ, áöïý ïé õøçëÝò ãáóôñïíïìéêÝò äçìéïõñãßåò, ç ðñïóï÷Þ óôçí ëåðôïìÝñåéá êáé ç áíÜäåéîç ôçò öñåóêÜäáò ôùí ðñþôùí õëþí, ìå óåâáóìü ðÜíôá óôç ìáãåéñéêÞ óïößá ôçò Ìåóïãåßïõ, Ýñ÷ïíôáé íá äÝóïõí ìå ôçí îå÷ùñéóôÞ áôìüóöáéñá åíüò ÷þñïõ, ðïõ óå ìåôáöÝñåé ó Ýíá áôÝëåéùôï ôáîßäé ãåýóåùí. ÊáëáðïèÜêç 8-10, Èåóóáëïíßêç, T. 2310233173, www.7thalasses.eu
7 Seas Embark on a culinary journey of delightful flavours offered by a seafood restaurant that rightfully occupies the top position in its field. See how superior gastronomic creations, attention to detail, fresh ingredients and the deepest respect for the culinary wisdom of the Mediterranean blend in with the unique atmosphere of a restaurant that can take you on an endless journey on flavours. 8-10 Kalapothaki St., Thessaloniki, T. +30 2310233173, www.7thalasses.eu
Åôòà òàëàññåñ «Ñåìü ìîðåé» Ðåñòîðàí «Åôòà òàëàññåñ» («Ñåìü ìîðåé») ïðåäëàãàåò ïóòåøåñòâèå â ìèð èçûñêàíûõ êóëèíàðíûõ âêóñîâ. Ýòîò ðûáíûé ðåñòîðàí çàñëóæåííî çàíÿë ïåðâîå ìåñòî â ñâîåé êàòåãîðèè áëàãîäàðÿ áîãàòîìó ìåíþ, âíèìàòåëüíîìó ïðèãîòîâëåíèþ áëþä èç ñâåæèõ ïðîäóêòîâ ïî ñðåäèçåìíîìîðñêèì ðåöåïòàì. Îñîáàÿ àòìîñôåðà ñîçäàíàÿ â ðåñòîðàíå ïðåäîñòàâèò âàì áåñêîíå÷íîå ïóòåøåñòâèå â ìèðå âêóñîâ. óë. Êàëàïîôàêè 8-10, Ñàëîíèêè, T. +30 2310233173, www.7thalasses.eu
SXO ESPEROS
SXO ESPEROS It is the only association in the Municipality of Kalamaria but also one of the two associations in Thessaloniki with significant activity for the development and learning of winter sports. The athletes of SXO ESPEROS-KALAMARIA throughout all these years that the association operates have many and important distinctions such as victories in Pan-hellenic level, participations in International competitions, (Teens World competition, Olympic days) and participation in National competitions. The head offices of the Association are at Aretsou beach, the base from which all these years, every winter season, the friends and athletes of winter sports depart for the Greek ski resorts. T. 2310-452088, www.sxoesperos.gr
Åßíáé ï ìïíáäéêüò óýëëïãïò óôçí ðüëç ôçò ÊáëáìáñéÜò áëëÜ êáé ï Ýíáò áðü ôïõò äýï ðïõ õðÜñ÷ïõí óôçí Èåóóáëïíßêç ìå óçìáíôéêÞ äñáóôçñéüôçôá óôçí áíÜðôõîç êáé åêìÜèçóç ôùí ÷åéìåñéíþí áèëçìÜôùí. Ïé áèëçôÝò êáé ïé áèëÞôñéåò ôïõ Ó×Ï ÅÓÐÅÑÏÓ ÊÁËÁÌÁÑÉÁÓ üëá áõôÜ ôá ÷ñüíéá ôçò ëåéôïõñãßáò ôïõ óõëëüãïõ, Ý÷ïõí ðÜñá ðïëëÝò êáé óçìáíôéêÝò äéáêñßóåéò ìå ÐáíåëëÞíéåò íßêåò, óõììåôï÷Ýò óå Äéåèíåßò áãþíåò, (Ðáãêüóìéï ÅöÞâùí, ÏëõìðéáêÝò çìÝñåò), êáé óõììåôï÷Þ óôéò ÅèíéêÝò ïìÜäåò. Ç âÜóç ôïõ óõëëüãïõ åßíáé ôá ãñáöåßá ôïõ óôïí ÷þñï ôçò ðáñáëßáò óôçí ðëáæ Áñåôóïý, ïðïý åêåß üëá áõôÜ ôá ÷ñüíéá êáé êýñéá êÜèå ÷åéìåñéíÞ óåæüí, áíá÷ùñïýí ïé ößëïé êáé ïé áèëçôÝò ôùí ÷åéìåñéíþí óðïñ ãéá ôá ÷éïíïäñïìéêÜ êÝíôñá üëçò ôçò ÅëëÜäáò. T. 2310-452088, www.sxoesperos.gr
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SXO ESPEROS Îáùåñòâî ãîðíîëûæíîãî ñïîðòà «Ýñïåðîñ» - ýòî åäèíñòâåííîå â ãîðîäå Êàëàìàðüÿ, è îäíî èç äâóõ ñóùåñòâóþùèõ â ãîðîäå Ñàëîíèêè îáùåñòâ, îñóùåñòâëÿþùèõ âàæíóþ äåÿòåëüíîñòü ïî ðàçâèòèþ è îáó÷åíèþ çèìíèì âèäàì ñïîðòà. Ñïîðòñìåíû è ñïîðòñìåíêè îáùåñòâà ãîðíîëûæíîãî ñïîðòà «Ýñïåðîñ» íà ïðîòÿæåíèè ìíîãèõ ëåò ñóùåñòâîâàíèÿ îáùåñòâà, èìåþò ìíîãî ðàçíûõ ïîáåä è ìåäàëåé â ãðå÷åñêèõ ñîñòÿçàíèÿõ, ó÷àñòâîâàëè â ìåæäóíàðîäíûõ ñîðåâíîâàíèÿõ, â ìîëîäåæíîì (÷åìïèîíàòå ìèðà, â Îëèìïèéñêèõ äíÿõ), ÿâëÿþòñÿ òàêæå ÷ëåíàìè íàöèîíàëüíûõ ñáîðíûõ. Îôèñ îáùåñòâà áàçèðóåòñÿ íà ïëÿæå Àðåöóñ, îòêóäà âñå ýòè ãîäû, êàæäûé çèìíèé ñåçîí îòïðàâëÿþòñÿ ñïîðòñìåíû è äðóçüÿ çèìíèõ âèäîâ ñïîðòà íà ãîðíîëûæíûå êóðîðòû ïî âñåé Ãðåöèè. Òåëåôîí: 2310-452088, www.sxoesperos.gr
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Ïýæï Ìáãåßá
Ouzo Magia Ç åôáéñåßá «Ïýæï Ìáãåßá» ðáñÜãåé ïýæï åäþ êáé ôñåéò ãåíéÝò, áðü ôï 1908, êáé Ý÷åé äçìéïõñãÞóåé ìéá ìåãÜëç ðáñÜäïóç áõèåíôéêüôçôáò êáé ãíçóéüôçôáò. Ãéá ôçí ðáñáóêåõÞ êáé ôçí åìöéÜëùóç ôïõ ÷ñçóéìïðïéïýíôáé ðáñáäïóéáêÝò ìÝèïäïé áðüóôáîçò, üðùò ÷Üëêéíïò áðïóôáêôÞñáò êáé îõëïêÜñâïõíï. Óáí áðïôÝëåóìá ôï “ïýæï Ìáãåßá” áðïêôÜ Ýíá ìïíáäéêü ëåðôü Üñùìá êáé ìåôáäßäåé ìéá åîáéñåôéêÞ, áðáëÞ êáé åõ÷Üñéóôç ãåýóç. www.ouzomageia.gr
The company "Ouzo Magia" has been producing ouzo for three generations since 1908 and has established a long tradition of authenticity and purity. They use for preparation and bottling, traditional methods of distillation, such as copper alambic and charcoal for healing up. As a result "Ouzo Magia" receives a unique fine aroma and delivers a distinguishable, smooth and pleasant taste. www.ouzomageia.gr
Óçî Ìàãèÿ Êîìïàíèÿ «Óçî Ìàãèÿ» ïðîäîëæàåò óæå â òå÷åíèå òðåõ ïîêîëåíèé, ñ 1908 ã., ïðîèçâîäèòü ãðå÷åñêóþ àíèñîâóþ âîäêó - óçî. Êîìïàíèÿ èçâåñòíà ìíîãîëåòíèìè òðàäèöèÿìè â ñôåðå ïðîèçâîäñòâà íàñòîÿùåãî è àóòåíòè÷íîãî ïðîäóêòà. Äëÿ ïðèãîòîâëåíèÿ è ðîçëèâà óçî èñïîëüçóþòñÿ òðàäèöèîííûå ìåòîäû äèñòèëëÿöèè. Ïåðåãîíêà îñóùåñòâëÿåòñÿ â ñïåöèàëüíûõ äèñòèëëÿòîðàõ (êîòëàõ), êîòîðûå èçãîòîâëåíû ïðåäïî÷òèòåëüíî èç ìåäè, â ðåçóëüòàòå ÷åãî êîíå÷íûé ïðîäóêò èìååò ëåãêèé àðîìàò è èñêëþ÷èòåëüíî ìÿãêèé è ïðèÿòíûé âêóñ. www.ouzomageia.gr
Saltas Ýðéðëï Ôá ìïíôÝñíá Ýðéðëá óôçí Èåóóáëïíßêç ëÝãïíôáé Saltas Ýðéðëï. Ç åôáéñåßá “Saltas Ýðéðëï” éäñýèçêå ôï 1993 ìå óôü÷ï ôçí êáôáóêåõÞ ìïíôÝñíùí êáé åëêõóôéêþí åðßðëùí ðïõ èá êáëùóïñßæïõí êáé èá îåêïõñÜæïõí ôïõò éäéïêôÞôåò ôïõò. Ó÷åäéÜæïõí Ýðéðëá óå ðïëý ðñïóéôÝò ôéìÝò ìå äçìéïõñãéêüôçôá, õøçëü design êáé ìåñÜêé ãéá íá ðñïóöÝñïõí óôïõò ðåëÜôåò ôïõò ðåñçöÜíéá êáé êáìÜñé.» 17ï ÷ëì ÐáëáéÜò ÅèíéêÞò Ïäïý Èåóóáëïíßêçò - ÂÝñïéáò, ¢ãéïò ÁèáíÜóéïò, Èåóóáëïíßêç Ô. 2310722586, www.saltasepiplo.gr
Saltas furniture Modern furniture in Thessaloniki is synonymous with Saltas furniture. Saltas furniture Company was founded in 1993 aiming to create modern and attractive furniture that welcome and relax their owners. Furniture in very reasonable prices is designed with creativity, high taste and artistry so as to make our customers proud to have them. 17th km Old National Road Thessaloniki-Veroia, Agios Athanasios, Thessaloniki Ô. 2310722586, www.saltasepiplo.gr
Ìåáåëü Saltas Ñàìàÿ ìîäíàÿ è ñîâðåìåííàÿ ìåáåëü â ãîðîäå Ñàëîíèêè ïðîèçâîäèòñÿ ôèðìîé Saltas, êîòîðàÿ áûëà îñíîâàíà â 1993 ãîäó ñ öåëüþ ñîçäàíèÿ ñîâðåìåííîé è óäîáíîé ìåáåëè, äàþùåé ðàäîñòü ñâîèì âëàäåëüöàì. Ñîâðåìåííàÿ ìåáåëü ïî î÷åíü äîñòóïíûì öåíàì ðàçðàáîòàíàÿ äèçàéíåðàìè ñ òâîð÷åñêèì ïîäõîäîì è èçûñêàíûì âêóñîì ïðåäëàãàåòñÿ ñ ãîðäîñòüþ êëèåíòàì íàøåé ôèðìû." 17ûé êì Ñòàðîé íàöèîíàëüíîé äîðîãè Ñàëîíèêè Âåðèÿ, Àãèîñ Àôàíàñèîñ, Ñàëîíèêè Òåë: 2310722586, www.saltasepiplo.gr
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Negroponte Óå äñüìïõò ðáëéïýò ðåôñüóôñùôïõò, óôá ËáäÜäéêá, ìðïñåß êáíÝíáò íá óõíáíôÞóåé Ýíá ÷þñï åîáéñåôéêþí åäåóìÜôùí, ôï ìåæåäïðùëåßï Negroponte. Åäþ ôá öñåóêïìáãåéñåìÝíá öáãçôÜ åíþíïíôáé ìå ôçí æåóôáóéÜ ôçò áíèñþðéíçò êïõâÝíôáò êáé ôá áõôïó÷Ýäéá ìåñáêëßäéêá ôñáãïýäéá ôùí èáìþíùí. Áéãýðôïõ 24, ËáäÜäéêá, Èåóóáëïíßêç, T: 2310523571
Walking down the old cobblestone streets of Ladadika, you will come across Negroponte, a traditional Greek taverna (mezedopolio) that serves exceptional dishes. Offers a unique combination of freshly cooked foods, the warmth of human conversation and musical improvisations. 24 Aigyptou St., Ladadika Thessaloniki, T: +30 2310523571
Íåãðîïîíòå Ãóëÿÿ ïî âûìîùåíûì áóëûæíèêàìè óëèöàì ìåñòå÷êà Ëàäàäèêà âû âñòðåòèòå òàâåðíó «Íåãðîïîíòå», ãäå ìîæíî ïîïðîáîâàòü ñâåæåïðèãîòîâëåííûå âêóñíûå áëþäà è ïðîâåñòè âðåìÿ â ò¸ïëîé àòìîñôåðå ñ òðàäèöèîííîé ãðå÷åñêîé ìóçûêîé. óë. Åãèïòó 24, ìåñòå÷êî Ëàäàäèêà, Ñàëîíèêè, T: 2310523571
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Åóôéáôüñéï ÌðáêáôóéÜíïò Óôï Üëóïò ôçò Áãßáò ÐáñáóêåõÞò, óôá üñéá ôçò Áñíáßáò óôåãÜæåôáé ôï åóôéáôüñéï ÌðáêáôóéÜíïò. ¸íáò æåóôüò êáé ðñïóåãìÝíïò ÷þñïò ðïõ ëåéôïõñãåß ÷åéìþíá êáé êáëïêáßñé ðñïóöÝñïíôáò äõíáôüôçôá åóôßáóçò óå óôåãáóìÝíï êáé óå õðáßèñéï ðåñéâÜëëïí. Áãßá ÐáñáóêåõÞ, Áñíáßá ×áëêéäéêÞò Ôçë.: 23720 22750, www.bakatsianos.gr
Restaurant Bakatsianos You can find restaurant Bakatsianos in the spinney of Agia Paraskevi, on the borders of Arnaia. A cozy and well-decorated space which operates both in winter and summer period offering food services in roofed and open-air environment. Agia Paraskevi, Arnaia, Halkidiki Ôçë.: 23720 22750, www.bakatsianos.gr
katsikadelis rent a car Ôï ãñáöåßï ìáò åéäéêåýåôáé óôéò åíïéêéÜóåéò áõôïêéíÞôùí óôçí ×ßï. Ìðïñåßôå íá äéáëÝîåôå áðü ìßá ìåãÜëç ãêÜìá áõôïêéíÞôùí êáé íá âñåßôå áõôü ðïõ ôáéñéÜæåé óôéò áíÜãêåò óáò. Ìðïñåßôå áêüìç íá êÜíåôå êñÜôçóç êáé ôï áõôïêßíçôü óáò, èá óáò ðåñéìÝíåé ìüëéò öèÜóåôå óôï íçóß... Ô: 22710-41437, www.katsikadelis.gr.
The office provides car rental services on Chios. You can choose from a wide range of cars and find the one that meets your needs. You can also make a booking and your car will be waiting for you as soon as you arrive on the island. Ô: 22710-41437, www.katsikadelis.gr.
Bakatsianos ðåñòîðàí Bakatsianos ðåñòîðàí ðàñïîëîæåí íà êðàþ ãîðîäà Àðíåÿ, â ëåñî÷êå Ñâÿòîé Ïàðàñêåâû. Ýòî ÷èñòîå, òåïëîå è óþòíîå ìåñòî, êîòîðîå ðàáîòàåò è çèìîé, è ëåòîì, äàðÿ âîçìîæíîñòü îòâåäàòü ïðåêðàñíûå áëþäà êàê â ïîìåùåíèè, òàê è íà ñâåæåì âîçäóõå. Ñâÿòîé Ïàðàñêåâû, Àðíåÿ, Õàëêèäèêè T: 23720-22750, www.bakatsianos.gr
Inter Hermes Car rental Ç ðïëý÷ñïíç ðåßñá óôï ÷þñï ôùí åíïéêéÜóåùí áõôïêéíÞôùí êáé ìïôïóéêëåôþí, ôï öéëéêü êáé öéëüîåíï ðåñéâÜëëïí, ç Üøïãç åîõðçñÝôçóç, ï óåâáóìüò óôïí ðåëÜôç, ïé ëïãéêÝò ôéìÝò êáé ç ðñïóï÷Þ óôçí ðïéüôçôá ôùí ðáñå÷üìåíùí õðçñåóéþí èá êÜíïõí ôéò äéáêïðÝò óáò áîÝ÷áóôåò. Óôï Inter Hermes Car rental èá âñåßôå áõôïêßíçôá äéáöüñùí ôýðùí ìå ðáñÜäïóç & ðáñáëáâÞ áðü êáé ðñïò ôï áåñïäñüìéï, ôï ëéìÜíé, êáé ôï îåíïäï÷åßï óáò. ¼ðùò åðßóçò ìïôïóéêëÝôåò, óêïýôåñ, ATV ôåôñÜôñï÷á. ÈåìéóôïêëÞ Óïöïýëç 106, Âáèý ÓÜìïõ, T: 22730 28833, 6942 222300
Oôèñ ñïåöèàëèçèðóåòñÿ íà ïðîêàòå àâòîìîáèëåé íà îñòðîâå Õèîñ. Âû ìîæåòå âûáðàòü èç øèðîêîé ãàììû àâòîìîáèëåé, ÷òîáû íàéòè òî, ÷òî óäîâëåòâîðèò âàøèì íóæäàì. Âû äàæå ìîæåòå çàáðîíèðîâàòü àâòîìîáèëü çàðàíåå, ÷òîáû îí îæèäàë âàøåãî ïðèåçäà íà îñòðîâ… Ô: 22710-41437, www.katsikadelis.gr.
The long experience in the field of car and motorcycle rental, the friendly and hospitable environment, the excellent service, the respect to the client, the reasonable prices and our constant concern on the quality of our services will make your holidays unforgettable. In Inter Hermes Car rental you will find different types of cars which you can receive or deliver at the airport, port or your hotel. Also motorcycles, scooters, four-wheel ATV. Sofouli Themistokli 106, Vathy Samou, T: 22730 28833, 6942 222300
Íàø ìíîãîëåòíèé îïûò â îáëàñòè àðåíäû àâòîìîáèëåé è ìîòîöèêëîâ, äðóæåëþáíàÿ è ãîñòåïðèèìíàÿ àòìîñôåðà, áåçóïðå÷íûé ñåðâèñ,óâàæåíèå ê êëèåíòó, äîñòóïíûå öåíû è âíèìàíèå ê êà÷åñòâó óñëóã, ñäåëàåò âàø îòäûõ íåçàáûâàåìûì.  Inter Hermes Car rental âû íàéäåòå ðàçëè÷íûå òèïû àâòîìîáèëåé ñ äîñòàâêîé â àýðîïîðò, ïîðò è îòåëü, ñ âîçâðàùåíèåì.À òàêæå è ìîòîöèêëû, ñêóòåðû, ATV ÷åòûð¸õêîë¸ñíûå. Ôåìèñòîêëè Ñîôóëè, 106, Âàòè Ñàìîñ, T: 22730 28833, 6942 222300
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Pharae Palace Hotel
Óôï Pharae Palace ç êïìøüôçôá êáé ç êáëáéóèçóßá áíáìåéãíýïíôáé ôÝëåéá ìå ôç óýã÷ñïíç áéóèçôéêÞ êáé äéá÷ñïíéêüôçôá. Ôï îåíïäï÷åßï âñßóêåôáé óå ðñïíïìéáêÞ èÝóç êáé äéáèÝôåé áðßóôåõôç èÝá óôç äéÜóçìç ðáñáëßá ôçò ÊáëáìÜôáò êáé óôïí åðéâëçôéêü Ôáûãåôï. Óôï Pharae Palace èá áðïëáýóåôå ìéá Üíåôç äéáìïíÞ êáé æåóôÞ öéëïîåíßá, åßôå Ýñ÷åóôå ãéá åðáããåëìáôéêïýò ëüãïõò, åßôå ãéá áíáøõ÷Þ. Ç ðáñáëßá êáé ç íõ÷ôåñéíÞ æùÞ ôçò ðüëçò åßíáé óå áðüóôáóç áíáðíïÞò, äßíïíôáò Üðåéñåò åðéëïãÝò äéáóêÝäáóçò áðü ôï ðñùß Ýùò ôï âñÜäõ. Íáõáñßíïõ & ÑÞãá Öåñáßïõ, ÊáëáìÜôá Ô. 27210 94420-4, www.pharaepalace.gr
At Pharae Palace elegance and tastiness are perfectly mixed with the modern taste and timelessness. The hotel is at advantageous position and has an incredible view over the famous beach of Kalamata and the imposing mountain of Taygetos. At Pharae Palace you will enjoy a comfortable stay and warm hospitality either you come here for business or pleasure. The beach and the night life of the city is really close to you which gives you many options for going out either it's day or night. Navarinou & Riga Feraiou, Kalamata T. 27210 94420-4, www.pharaepalace.gr  Pharae Palace ýëåãàíòíîñòü è ÷óâñòâî êðàñîòû èäåàëüíî ñî÷åòàþòñÿ ñî ñîâðåìåííîé ýñòåòèêîé. Îòåëü ðàñïîëîæåí â îòëè÷íîì ìåñòå ñ êðàñèâûì âèäîì íà çíàìåíèòîì ïëÿæå Êàëàìàòà è íà âåëè÷åñòâåíóþ ãîðó Òàéãåò.  Pharae Palace Âàñ îæèäåò êîìôîðòàáåëüíîå ïðåáûâàíèå è ðàäóøíîå ãîñòåïðèèìñòâî, íåñìîòðÿ íà òî ïðèåõàëè ëè Âû ïî äåëàì èëè äëÿ îòäûõà. Ïëÿæ è íî÷íàÿ æèçíü ãîðîäà íàõîäÿòñÿ â íåñêîëüêèõ ìèíóòàõ õîäüáû è ïðåäîñòàâëÿþò Âàì áåñêîíå÷íûå âàðèàíòû ðàçâëå÷åíèé ñ óòðà äî íî÷è. Íàâàðèíó & Ðèãà Ôåðåó, Êàëàìàòà Ô. 27210 94420-4, www.pharaepalace.gr
Óôï Êýìá Óôçí ðáíÝìïñöç ÊáëáìÜôá, äßðëá óôï… “êýìá”. Áðü ôï ðñùß ãéá êáöÝ, ìÝ÷ñé ôï âñÜäõ ìå ìåæÝäåò êáé ÌåóóçíéáêÜ ðéÜôá ðïõ ÷áñáêôçñßæïõí ôçí îå÷ùñéóôÞ ãáóôñïíïìßá ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò. ÁðïëáõóôéêÝò óôéãìÝò óå ðñïóéôÝò ôéìÝò êáé åëåýèåñç ÷ñÞóç ôïõ åîïðëéóìïý ôçò ðáñáëßáò. Íáõáñßíïõ 167- ÊáëáìÜôá, Ô: +30 2721401754
Sto Kyma Sto Kyma (On the waves) is a restaurant in the beautiful city of Kalamata, right on... the waves! There you can start your morning with a cup of coffee and spend the evening enjoying snacks and local dishes that represent the unique gastronomy of the area. Sto KYMA offers its guests good times at good prices, as well as unlimited use of its beach amenities. 167 Navarinou St., Kalamata, T: +30 2721401754
Íà âîëíàõ  êðàñèâîì ãðå÷åñîì ãîðîäå Êàëàìàòà íà áåðåãó ìîðÿ ðàñïîëîæåí ðåñòîðàí «Íà âîëíàõ» Óòðîì âàì ïîäàäóò êîôå, à âå÷åðîì çàêóñêè è ìåñòíûå áëþäà îáëàñòè Ìåññèíèà, êîòîðûå âàñ ïîçíàêîìÿò ñ óíèêàëüíîé ãàñòðîíîìèåé ðåãèîíà. Âû ïðèÿòíî ïðîâåä¸òå âðåìÿ áëàãîäàðÿ äîñòóïíûì öåíàì è áåñïëàòíîìó ïîëüçîâàíèþ ñíàðÿæåíèåì ïëÿæà. óë. Íàâàðèíó 167 Êàëàìàòà, T. 2721401754
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Mani Foods Áðü ôçí ÌåóóçíéáêÞ ãç, ðïõ ãéá áéþíåò ç åëéÜ êáëëéåñãåßôå üðïõ ïé êëéìáôïëïãéêÝò óõíèÞêåò êáé ôï Ýäáöïò âñßóêïíôáé óå áðüëõôç áñìïíßá ìå ôï åëáéüäåíôñï, óáò ðáñïõóéÜæïõìå ôï ðéï áãíü êáé õãéåéíü êïñïíÝéêï Ý÷ôñá ðáñèÝíï åëáéüëáäï êáé ôéò õðåñï÷Ýò åëéÝò êáëÜìùí. ÐñïóöÝñïíôáé óôïõò ðéï áðáéôçôéêïýò ðåëÜôåò ðïõ ðñáãìáôéêÜ åêôéìïýí ôá gourmet ðñïúüíôá. ÁíôéêÜëáìïò, ÊáëáìÜôá, Ô: 27210 99707,8 www.manifoods.gr
Mani Foods Mani Foods From Kalamata a land where olives are cultivated for centuries, in a place where the earth climate and terrain are in perfect harmony with the olive tree, we proudly bring our koroneiko extra virgin olive oil and kalamata olives. Pure and wholesome they are offered for our most discriminating customers who really appreciate a truly gourmet product. Antikalamos Kalamata, Ô: 27210 99707,8 www.manifoods.gr
Èç çåìëè Ìåññèíèè, ãäå âåêàìè âûðàùèâàþòñÿ îëèâêîâûå äåðåâüÿ, ãäå êëèìàòè÷åñêèå è ïî÷âåííûå óñëîâèÿ ïîçâîëÿþò îëèâêîâûì äåðåâüÿì ðàñòè â ïîëíîé ãàðìîíèè ñ îêðóæàþùåé ñðåäîé, ìû ïðåïîäíîñèì âàì ñàìîå íàòóðàëüíîå îëèâêîâîå ìàñëî ýêñòðà êëàññà èç îëèâîê ñîðòà «êîðîíåéêè» è ïðåâîñõîäíûå îëèâêè ñîðòà «Êàëàìîí» èç Êàëàìàòû. Ýòè ïðîäóêòû îñîáî ïðåäíàçíà÷åíû äëÿ ñàìûõ òðåáîâàòåëüíûõ êëèåíòîâ, êîòîðûå äåéñòâèòåëüíî öåíÿò áëàãîðîäíûå ïðîäóêòû äëÿ íàñòîÿùèõ ãóðìàíîâ. Àíòèêàëàìîñ, Êàëàìàòà T: 27210 99707,8 www.manifoods.gr
Îåíþíåò ×áìáëþíé Óå Ýíá âéïëïãéêü êôÞìá óáñÜíôá óôñåììÜôùí, ìå õðÝñï÷ç èÝá óôï Éüíéï ÐÝëáãïò, ç ïéêïãÝíåéá ÔáìðáêïõëÜêç äçìéïýñãçóå Ýîé áíåîÜñôçôåò ðïëõôåëåßò êáôïéêßåò ãéá ôïõò ëÜôñåéò ôçò åëëçíéêÞò ãçò êáé ôçò ðáñÜäïóçò. Óôïõò îåíþíåò ×áìáëþíé, ïé åðéóêÝðôåò Ýñ÷ïíôáé óå åðáöÞ ìå ôç öýóç, ÷áëáñþíïõí, åîåñåõíïýí, ìáèáßíïõí ôïõò ðáñáäïóéáêïýò ôñüðïõò ðáñáóêåõÞò ðñïúüíôùí, üðùò ôï ëÜäé êáé ôï êñáóß êáé äïêéìÜæïõí ãåýóåéò áðü ôç ìéêñÞ ôïõò öÜñìá. ÕÜìåéá, Êïñþíç, Ìåóóçíßá T. 2725061436, 6974097900 www.chamaloni.gr
Chamaloni Hostels In a biologic farm of forty stremmas with a lovely view of Ionian Sea, Tampakoulaki family created six independent luxurious villas for those who love Greek land and tradition. At Chamaloni hostels, the visitors get in touch with nature, relax, discover, learn the traditional preparation ways of products such as oil, wine and taste goods coming from the small farm. Yamia, Koroni Messinia T. 2725061436, 6974097900 www.chamaloni.gr
Ãîñòèíè÷íûé êîìïëåêñ Õàìàëîíè  ÷óäåñíîì ýêîëîãè÷åñêè ÷èñòîì ðàéîíå íà ó÷àñòêå 4 ãåêòàðà ñåìüÿ Òàìáàêóëàêè ñîçäàëà êîìïëåêñ èç øåñòè íåçàâèñèìûõ äðóã îò äðóãà ðîñêîøíûõ îñîáíÿêîâ ñ âèäîì íà Èîíè÷åñêîå ìîðå äëÿ ëþáèòåëåé Ãðåöèè è ãðå÷åñêîé êóëüòóðû.  ãîñòèíè÷íîì êîìïëåêñå Õàìàëîíè ãîñòè èìåþò âîçìîæíîñòü îùóòèòü ñâÿçü ñ ïðèðîäîé, îòäîõíóòü, çàíÿòüñÿ èññëåäîâàíèåì ìåñòíîñòè, èçó÷èòü òðàäèöèîííûå ìåòîäû ïðîèçâîäñòâà òàêèõ ïðîäóêòîâ, êàê îëèâêîâîå ìàñëî è âèíî, è ïîïðîáîâàòü íà âêóñ âñå, ÷òî ðàñòåò íà íàøåé ìàëåíüêîé ôåðìå. Èàìèÿ, Êîðîíè, Ìåññèíèÿ, T. 2725061436, 6974097900 , www.chamaloni.gr
The betterfly list Lemon garden
Lemon garden A really unique place full of lemon, tangerine, orange-trees and colorful flowers, where the smell of lemon-flower prevails. This place gives the visitor the opportunity to relax and revive through procedures that may excite the senses no matter how simple they are. The 'ritual' starts in the morning with coffee and fresh juices on the swings of the garden and continues on barbeque where after 5.00 p.m. juicy meats, 'Obelix' flank stakes, fresh fish, vegetables, cheeses and cooked pork meats, lamb on vine twigs and skewered piglet are grilled. And what follows at the cocktail bar is unpredictable and promising. There, people can drink mojitos and caipirinhas made of fresh juices, something that the bar is famous for. Acharavi, Corfu, Ô: +30 2663064446 www.lemongardencorfu.com
¸íáò ðñáãìáôéêÜ ìïíáäéêüò ÷þñïò êáôÜöõôïò ìå ëåìïíéÝò, ìáíôáñéíéÝò, ðïñôïêáëéÝò êáé ðïëý÷ñùìá ëïõëïýäéá ìå êõñßáñ÷ç ôçí åõùäéÜ ôïõ ëåìïíáíèïý , ôïýôïò ï ÷þñïò äßíåé ôçí åõêáéñßá óôïí åðéóêÝðôç íá ÷áëáñþóåé éäáíéêÜ êáé íá áíáæùïãïíçèåß ìÝóá áðü äéáäéêáóßåò ðïõ ìðïñïýí íá óõíáñðÜæïõí ôéò áéóèÞóåéò ìå ôçí áðëüôçôá ôïõò. Ç ìõóôáãùãéêÞ äéáäéêáóßá, îåêéíÜ áðü ôï ðñùß óôéò áéþñåò ôïõ êÞðïõ, ìå êáöÝ êáé öñÝóêïõò ÷õìïýò êáé Ýðåôáé ç óõíÝ÷åéá áöïý ìåôÜ ôéò 17.00 óôï BBQ øÞíïíôáé æïõìåñÜ êñÝáôá, óðáëïìðñéæüëåò ãéá “Ïâåëßî”, öñÝóêá øÜñéá, ëá÷áíéêÜ, ôõñéÜ êáé áëëáíôéêÜ, áñíß óôçí êëçìáôüâåñãá êáé ãïõñïõíüðïõëï óôç óïýâëá. Êáé ç óõíÝ÷åéá áðñüâëåðôç, ãåìÜôç õðïó÷Ýóåéò óôï cocktail bar, ðïõ öçìßæåôáé ãéá ôá mojitos êáé ôá caipirinha ôïõ, ìéá êáé ÷ñçóéìïðïéåß ìüíï öõóéêïýò ÷õìïýò ãéá ôçí ðáñáóêåõÞ ôïõò. Á÷áñÜâç ÊÝñêõñáò, Ô: 2663064446, www.lemongardencorfu.com
Ðåñòîðàí Lemon garden (Ëèìîííûé ñàä) Ïîèñòèíå óíèêàëüíîå ìåñòî ñ öèòðóñîâûì ñàäîì ñ ëèìîííûìè, ìàíäàðèíîâûìè è àïåëüñèíîâûìè äåðåâüÿìè, çàñàæåííûì êðàñî÷íûìè öâåòàìè, ãäå ïðåîáëàäàåò áëàãîóõàþùèé çàïàõ ëèìîííîãî öâåòêà. Ýòîò ðàéñêèé óãîëîê ïðåäîñòàâëÿåò ïîñåòèòåëþ âîçìîæíîñòü ðàññëàáèòüñÿ è íàñëàäèòüñÿ ñàìûìè ïðîñòûìè âåùàìè, ðàäóþùèìè æèçíü. Ðèòóàë çàâòðàêà íà÷èíàåòñÿ óòðîì â ãàìàêàõ â ñàäó ñ êîôå è ñâåæåâûæàòûìè ñîêàìè. Ïîñëå 17.00 ÷àñîâ, íà áàðáåêþ æàðÿò ñî÷íîå ìÿñî, ñòåéê èç ãîâÿäèíû äëÿ áëþäà "Îáåëèêñ", ñâåæóþ ðûáó, îâîùè, ñûðû, êîëáàñíûå èçäåëèÿ, ÿãíÿòèíó íà âèíîãðàäíûõ âåòêàõ, è ïîðîñåíêà íà âåðòåëå. ...Âå÷åð ïîëíûé îáåùàíèé ïðîäîëæàåòñÿ â êîêòåéëü-áàðå, èçâåñòíîì ñâîèìè êîêòåéëÿìè ìîõèòî è êàéïèðèíüÿ, äëÿ ïðèãîòîâëåíèÿ êîòîðûõ èñïîëüçóþòñÿ òîëüêî íàòóðàëüíûå ñîêè. Àðàõàâè, Êîðôó, Òåë.26630-64446 www.lemongardencorfu.com
Corfu sunrise Åíïéêßáóç áõôïêéíÞôïõ Ðïëý÷ñïíç ðåßñá, áîéüðéóôá áõôïêßíçôá ðÜíôïôå óå êáëÞ êáôÜóôáóç, ëïãéêÝò ôéìÝò, ìå Üìåóç ðáñÜäïóç ôüóï óôï áåñïäñüìéï, üóï êáé óôï ëéìÜíé ôçò ÊÝñêõñáò åßíáé ôá äéáðéóôåõôÞñéÜ ìáò üëá áõôÜ ôá ÷ñüíéá. ÄéáðéóôåõôÞñéá ðïõ åããõþíôáé üôé ç åðéëïãÞ ôçò åôáéñåßáò ìáò, óôï ÷þñï ôçò åíïéêßáóçò áõôïêéíÞôïõ, ìüíï ðëåïíåêôÞìáôá óáò åîáóöáëßæåé. ÅèíéêÞò ÁíôéóôÜóåùò 16, ÊÝñêõñá, Ô: 2661026511
Corfu sunrise Car rental Great experience, reliable cars that are always in good condition, reasonable prices with immediate delivery either at the airport or at the port of Corfu are our credentials for all these years. These credentials guarantee that the choice of our rental company can only be for your benefit. 16, Ethnikis Antistaseos St.-Corfu T: +30 2661026511
Corfu sunrise
Óñëóãè ïî ïðîêàòó àâòîìîáèëåé Ìíîãîëåòíèé îïûò, íàäåæíûå àâòîìîáèëè â õîðîøåì òåõíè÷åñêîì ñîñòîÿíèè, ïðèåìëåìûå öåíû, ñâîåâðåìåííàÿ äîñòàâêà àâòîìîáèëÿ â àýðîïîðò èëè ïîðò Êîðôó âñå ýòî ÿâëÿåòñÿ çàëîãîì âûñîêîãî êà÷åñòâà ïðåäîñòàâëÿåìûõ íàìè óñëóã ïî ïðîêàòó àâòîìîáèëåé íà ïðîòÿæåíèè ìíîãèõ ëåò, è ãàðàíòèåé òîãî, ÷òî âûáèðàÿ íàøó êîìïàíèþ äëÿ àðåíäû àâòîìîáèëÿ, âû ïîëó÷àåòå òîëüêî ïðåèìóùåñòâà. óë.Ýòíèêèñ Àíòèñòàñåîñ 16, Êîðôó, T: +30 2661026511
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ÇëéÜóôñá
Iliastra Iliastra is a tasteful and functional place which is not only a cafeteria but also a place to promote the local culture. The most important thing is that everything served here is homemade and traditional. Herb beverages, local fruit preserves made mainly of citrus fruits we find in Chios, Turkish coffee over embers, masticha ouzo but also espresso and cappuccino and fresh juices. It is worth mentioning a new place right across called 'Apsenti' which serves local tidbits and is another choice for the visitors of the castle. Fortress Square, Chios, Tel: 22710- 27322, www.iliastra.gr
Èëÿñòðà Ç ÇëéÜóôñá åßíáé Ýíáò ÷þñïò ìå Üðïøç ôüóï óôéëéóôéêÞ üóï êáé ëåéôïõñãßáò êáé ðÝñá áðü ôçí äåäïìÝíç ÷ñÞóç ôïõ ÷þñïõ, áðïôåëåß Ýíá æùíôáíü êýôôáñï áíáðáñáãùãÞò ôçò íôüðéáò êïõëôïýñáò. Ðåìðôïõóßá ôçò öéëïóïößáò åäþ åßíáé ç áõèåíôéêüôçôá üëùí üóùí ðñïóöÝñïíôá. ÑïöÞìáôá ôçò öýóçò, íôüðéá ãëõêÜ êïõôáëéïý, ìå Ýìöáóç óôá åóðåñéäïåéäÞ ôïõ ×éþôéêïõ êÜìðïõ, êáöÝ óôç ÷üâïëç, ìáóôé÷Üôï ïýæï, ìá êáé espresso êáé cappucino êáé öñÝóêïé ÷õìïß. ÓçìáíôéêÞ ðñïóèÞêç ôï "ÁøÝíôé" Ýíáò êáéíïýñãéïò ÷þñïò ìå íôüðéïõò ÷éþôéêïõò ìåæÝäåò, áêñéâþò áðÝíáíôé ðïõ Ýñ÷åôáé íá ðñïóèÝóåé ìéá åðéðëÝïí åðéëïãÞ óôïí åðéóêÝðôç ôïõ êÜóôñïõ. Ðëáôåßá Öñïõñßïõ, ×ßïò, Ô: 22710- 27322, www.iliastra.gr
«Èëÿñòðà» - ýòî ìåñòî ñî ñâîåé îñîáîé òî÷êîé çðåíèÿ, êàê íà ñòèëü, òàê è íà ôóíêöèîíèðîâàíèå, øèðå, ÷åì îáû÷íîå åãî èñïîëüçîâàíèå ïî íàçíà÷åíèþ, ÿâëÿåòñÿ æèâîé êëåòêîé âîñïðîèçâîäñòâà ìåñòíîé êóëüòóðû. Êâèíòýññåíöèåé ôèëîñîôèè, çäåñü ÿâëÿåòñÿ ïîäëèííîñòü âñåãî òîãî, ÷òî ïðåäëàãàåòñÿ. Íàïèòêè èç äàðîâ ïðèðîäû,ìåñòíîå âàðåíüå â áîëüøèíñòâå ñâî¸ì èç öèòðóñîâûõ, âûðàùåííûõ íà çåìëå îñòðîâà Õèîñ, êîôå, ïðèãîòîâëåííîå íà óãëÿõ, óçî ñî âêóñîì ìàñòèêè, à òàêæå espresso, cappucino è ñâåæèå ñîêè. Âàæíîå äîïîëíåíèå - ðàñïîëîæåííûé íàïðîòèâ «Àáñåíò» - íîâîå ìåñòî ñ ìåñòíûìè çàêóñêàìè îñòðîâà Õèîñ, äîïîëíÿþùåå åù¸ îäèí âûáîð äëÿ ïîñåòèòåëåé çàìêà. Ïëîùàäü Êðåïîñòè, Õèîñ, Tel: 22710- 27322,www.iliastra.gr
ÊõñÜ ÄÝóðïéíá Óå Ýíá áðü ôá ðïëëÜ øáñï÷þñéá ôïõ íçóéïý, óôïí üñµï ôïõ Ëéèéïý, èá âñåßôå ôçí øáñïôáâÝñíá ôçò ÊõñÜ ÄÝóðïéíáò. Åêåß áãíáíôåýïíôáò ôï áðÝñáíôï ãáëÜæéï ôïõ Áéãáßïõ êáé áðïëáìâÜíïíôáò ôá ÷éþôéêá öéüñä ôçò äõôéêÞò ×ßïõ, èá åõ÷áñéóôçèåßôå öñåóêüôáôï øÜñé, ìáãåéñåõôÜ êáé óðéôéêïýò ìåæÝäåò ìáãåéñåìÝíïõò áðü ôïí ðïëýðåéñï êõñ Ãéþñãç Êïëþôï. Ìçí ðáñáëåßøåôå íá öÜôå óðÝóéáë áóôáêïµáêáñïíÜäá êáé ôçí µïíáäéêÞ êáé õðÝñï÷ç êáêáâéÜ. Ðáñáëßá Ëéèßïõ- ×ßïò, Ô: 2271073373
Kyra despina
Êèðà Äåñïèíà
In one of the many fishing villages on the island, at Lithi bay, you will find Kyra Despina's fish tavern. There you can gaze at the vast blue sea of the Aegean and enjoy the view of the fjords of western Chios, while relishing fresh fish, cooked meals and homemade appetizers made by the experienced Kyr Giorgis Kolotos. Do not forget to try the special lobster spaghetti and the delicious fisherman's soup. Lithi Waterfront, Chios, T: +30 2271073373
 ñòàðîì ðûáàöêîì ñåëå îñòðîâà, â çàëèâå Ëèôèó, íàõîäèòñÿ ðûáíàÿ òàâåðíà «Êèðà Äåñïèíà (Ãîñïîæà Äåñïèíà)». Òàì ïðîñòèðàÿ ñâîé âçîð íàä áåñêîíå÷íîé ãîëóáåçíîé Ýãåéñêîãî ìîðÿ è íàñëàæäàÿñü âèäàìè ôèîðäîâ çàïàäíîãî ïîáåðåæüÿ îñòðîâà Õèîñ, âû îòâåäóåòå áëþäà èç ñâåæåé ðûáû è äîìàøíèþ åäó, ïðèãîòîâëåíóþ îïûòíûì ïîâîðîì Ãèîðãèñ Êîëîòîñ. Íå çàáóäòå ïîïðîáîâàòü ôèðìåíîå áëþäî «àñòàêîìàêàðîíàäà (ìàêàðîíû ñ îìàðîì)» è íåïîâòîðèìîé ìåñòíîé óõîé «êàêàâèà ». Ïîáåðåæüå Ëèôèó î-â Õèîñ, Ô: 2271073373
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Ala creme Ï ìåãÜëïò æÞëïò óôç óõíå÷Þ âåëôßùóç ôùí õðçñåóéþí êáé ðñïúüíôùí ôïõò, ç ìåãÜëç ðïéêéëßá, êáèþò åðßóçò êé ç óõíå÷Þ Ýñåõíá ãéá íÝåò ãåýóåéò ðïõ ìðïñïýí íá éêáíïðïéÞóïõí êáé ôï ðéï öéëüäïîï ãåõóéãíþóôç, ôïõò Ýêáíå ðïëý áãáðçôïýò óôç ×ßï, óå áíôáðüäïóç üëùí áõôþí ôùí ðñïóðáèåéþí ãéá ôï êáëýôåñï. Ç ðïéüôçôá ôùí ðñïúüíôùí áðïôåëåß ãéá áõôïýò ôçí áðüëõôç ðñïôåñáéüôçôá óå ïëüêëçñï ôï öÜóìá ôçò ðáñáãùãÞò, öñïíôßæïíôáò ãéá ôçí Üñéóôç ðïéüôçôá ôùí ðñþôùí õëþí, ôéò õðïôõðþäåéò óõíèÞêåò äéáêßíçóçò, ðáñáãùãÞò êáé äéÜèåóçò. ÊáëïõôÜ 40, ×ßïò, Ô: 22710 - 82729, www.alacreme.gr
Ala creme Ala creme Their great dedication to the on going improvement of services and products, the wide variety and our constant search for new flavours that can satisfy even the most ambitious food tasters have made them very popular on the island of Chios. The quality of products is for them top priority, while they pay equal attention to the excellent quality raw materials and to ensuring the proper conditions for their transport, production and sale. Kalouta 40, Chios, Ô: +30 22710 82729 www.alacreme.gr
Ðáðáìé÷áëÜêçò Ç ôáâÝñíá "ËéìÝíáò Ìåóôþí Ðáðáìé÷áëÜêç", ëåéôïõñãåß áðü ôï 1979. Ôá áëéåõôéêÜ óêÜöç ðïõ ëéêíßæïíôáé íù÷åëéêÜ óôï íåñü ìüíï ëßãá ìÝôñá ìáêñéÜ áðü ôçí ôáâÝñíá, ôçí ðñïìçèåýïõí êáèçìåñéíÜ ìå ìéá ðëïýóéá åðéëïãÞ øáñéþí. Ìðïñåßôå íá äïêéìÜóåôå íïóôéìüôáôá ðéÜôá êáé ìåæÝäåò, öôéáãìÝíá üëá ìå ìåñÜêé êáé áãíÜ õëéêÜ. Ðßôåò äéÜöïñåò, óáñäÝëåò, áèåñßíá, êáëáìáñÜêéá, ôõñïêåöôÝäåò, áëëÜ êáé êñåáôéêÜ üðùò ðáñáäïóéáêÜ ëïõêÜíéêá, áñíÜêé êáé âïäéíü êñÝáò óôç óïýâëá, øçôü êïôüðïõëï êáé êåöôåäÜêéá. ÁëëÜ êáé íôüðéåò óðåóéáëéôÝ üðùò ôï ìïíáäéêü ×éþôéêï ôõñß ''ÌáóôÝëï'' óôç ó÷Üñá. Áðïëáýóôå ìßá üìïñöç ìÝñá óôïí ÷þñï ôñéãõñéóìÝíïé áðü Üíèç êáé öõôÜ Þ äßðëá óôç èÜëáóóá, ðïõ áðëþíåôáé ìðñïóôÜ óáò, ðáñÝá ìå ìßá áóôáêïìáêáñïíÜäá Þ ïðïéïäÞðïôå Üëëï ðéÜôï áðü ôçí ðáñáäïóéáêÞ ìåóïãåéáêÞ Þ ÷éþôéêç êïõæßíá. ËéìÝíáò Ìåóôþí, Ô: 22710 76389, 76367
Áîëüøîå ñòðåìëåíèå ê ïîñòîÿííîìó ñîâåðøåíñòâîâàíèþ ñâîèõ óñëóã è ïðîäóêöèè, áîëüøîå ðàçíîîáðàçèå, à òàêæå è ïîñòîÿííûé ïîèñê íîâûõ â ê ó ñ î â û õ î ù ó ù å í è é , óäîâëåòâîðÿþùèõ äàæå ñàìûõ òðåáîâàòåëüíûõ ãóðìàíîâ, ñäåëàëè èõ â Õèîñå î÷åíü ëþáèìûìè, â îáìåí çà âñå ýòè óñèëèÿ. Ëó÷øåå êà÷åñòâî ïðîäóêöèè ÿâëÿåòñÿ äëÿ íèõ äëÿ íèõ àáñîëþòíûì ïðèîðèòåòîì âî âñåé ñôåðå ïðîèçâîäñòâà, ÷òî ãàðàíòèðóåò íàèâûñøåå êà÷åñòâî ñûðüÿ, îñíîâíûå óñëîâèÿ òîðãîâëè, ïðîèçâîäñòâà è ðàñïðåäåëåíèÿ. óë. Êàëóòà 40, Õèîñ, Ô: 22710 - 82729 www.alacreme.gr
Papamichalakis The Limenas Meston Papamichalaki taverna has been operating since 1979. The fishing boats swaying leisurely in the water only a few metres from the taverna supply it with a great variety of fish every day. Try the delicious dishes and appetizers (mezedes) that are prepared with warmth and pure ingredients. These include various pies, sardines, whitebait, calamari, cheese balls and meats such as sausages, lamb and beef on the spit, roast chicken and meatballs, as well as local specialties such as Mastelo cheese on the grill. Have a beautiful day at the restaurant surrounded by flowers and plants, or sit at a table by the sea that is spread out in front of you in the company of a lobster spaghetti or any other traditional Mediterranean or local island dish. Limenas Meston , Ô: 22710 76389, 76367
Ïàïàìèõàëàêèñ Òàâåðíà «Ëèìåíàñ Ìåñòîí Ïàïàìèõàëàêè» ðàáîòàåò ñ 1979 ãîäà. Ðûáàöêèå ëîäêè, ëåíèâî ïîêà÷èâàÿñü â âîäå âñåãî â íåñêîëüêèõ ìåòðàõ îò òàâåðíû, ïîñòàâëÿþò ñþäà êàæäûé äåíü øèðîêèé àññîðòèìåíò ðûáû. Âû ìîæåòå èñïðîáîâàòü âêóñíåéøèå áëþäà è çàêóñêè, ïðèãîòîâëåííûå ñ ëþáîâüþ èç íàòóðàëüíûõ èíãðåäèåíòîâ. Ïèðîãè, ðàçëè÷íûå ñîðòà ñàðäèí, êîðþøêà, êàëüìàðû, ñûðíûå êîòëåòêè, à òàêæå ìÿñî, òàêîå êàê òðàäèöèîííûå êîëáàñêè, áàðàíèíà è ãîâÿäèíà íà âåðòåëå, êóðèöà-ãðèëü è ôðèêàäåëüêè. Ìåñòíûå äåëèêàòåñû, òàêèå êàê óíèêàëüíûé õèîññêèé ñûð «Mastelo» íà ãðèëå. Íàñëàäèòåñü ïðåêðàñíûì äíåì â ìåñòå, îêðóæåííîì öâåòàìè è ðàñòåíèÿìè, èëè ðÿäîì ñ ìîðåì, ãäå ïåðåä âàìè ðàñïîëîæèëàñü êîìïàíèÿ ñ îìàðîâûìè ìàêàðîíàìè èëè ëþáûì äðóãèì áëþäîì èç òðàäèöèîííîé ñðåäèçåìíîìîðñêîé èëè õèîññêîé êóõíè. Ëèìåíàñ Ìåñòîí Ô: 22710 76389, 76367
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Ôï ôóéðïõñÜäéêïí ôïõ ÈùìÜ
Thomas' Tsipouro-tavern Tsipouro is authentic, local, pure, very cold and double-distilled, all their wines are local and the snacks are exactly like the grandmother of Thomas made them. Sarma rolls, giant beans baked in the oven, pickled eggplants & peppers, mushroom on grill, bougiourdi (baked feta cheese with pepper) and fried courgette balls are some among the many food delights that are waiting for you. And don't forget that every Wednesday, Thursday and Friday there is live music. 58, Ath. Diakou St., Kastoria, Ô: 24670-87040, 6934.975567
Çàêóñî÷íàÿ ãîñïîäèíà Ôîìàñà Ôï ôóßðïõñï áõèåíôéêü, åíôüðéï, êáèáñü, ðáãùìÝíï, äéðëïâñáóìÝíï, üëá ôá êñáóéÜ ôïõò åßíáé ôïðéêÜ, ïé ìåæÝäåò üðùò áêñéâþò ôïõò Ýêáíå ç ãéáãéÜ ôïõ ÈùìÜ, ïé óáñìÜäåò, ôá öáóüëéá ãßãáíôåò óôï öïýñíï, ôá ôïõñóéÜ ìåëéôæÜíáò & ðéðåñéÜò, ôá ìáíéôÜñéá ó÷Üñáò, ôï ìðïõãéïõñíôß, êáé ïé êïëïêõèïêåöôÝäåò, åßíáé êÜðïéåò áðü ôéò ðïëëÝò íïóôéìéÝò ðïõ óáò ðåñéìÝíïõí. Êáé ìçí îå÷Üóåôå üôé êÜèå ÔåôÜñôç, ÐÝìðôç êáé ÐáñáóêåõÞ óáò óõíïäåýåé æùíôáíÞ ìïõóéêÞ. Áè.ÄéÜêïõ 58, ÊáóôïñéÜ, Ô: 24670-87040, 6934.975567
Çäåñü Âû ìîæåòå ïîïðîáûâàòü òðàäèöèîííûé ìåñòíûé ñïèðòíîé íàïèòîê òñèïóðî, êîòîðîé ñåðâèðóåòñÿ õîëîäíûì, ïîñëå äâîéíîé ïåðåãîíêè. Âñå âèíà ÿâëÿþòñÿ ìåñòíûìè è çàêóñêè ïðèãîòîâëåíû ïî ðåöåïòó áàáóøêè Ôîìàñà. Äîëìû, ãèãàíòñêàÿ ôàñîëü â äóõîâêå, ñîëåíûå îãóðöû è áàêëàæàíû, ïåðåö, æàðåíûå ãðèáû, áóþðäè, êîòëåòû èç êàáî÷êà, íåêîòîðûå èç ìíîãèõ áëþä, êîòîðûå Âàñ æäóò. È íå çàáûâàéòå, ÷òî êàæäóþ ñðåäó, ÷åòâåðã è ïÿòíèöó çäåñü èãðàåò æèâàÿ ìóçûêà. Àô. Äèàêó 58, Êàñòîðèÿ, Òåë.: 24670-87040, 6934.975567
Kyknos De Luxe Suites Hotel Ôï Kyknos De Luxe Suites Hotel âñßóêåôáé óôç ÊáóôïñéÜ êáé åßíáé ìéá ïéêïãåíåéáêÞ åðé÷åßñçóç õøçëþí ðñïäéáãñáöþí ðïõ öôéÜ÷ôçêå ìå ðïëý áãÜðç êáé ìåñÜêé. Ìå ðëÞñùò åîïðëéóìÝíá êáé ðïëõôåëÞ äùìÜôéá, êÜíïõí ôçí äéáìïíÞ óáò ìéá ìïíáäéêÞ åìðåéñßá. www. kyknoshotelkastoria.gr ÊáóôïñéÜ
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You can find Kyknos De Luxe Suites Hotel in Kastoria. It is a family business of high standards that was created with love and personal work. With fully-equipped, luxurious rooms that make your stay there a unique experience. www. kyknoshotelkastoria.gr, Kastoria Ãîñòèíèöà «Kyknos De Luxe Suites Hotel» íàõîäèòñÿ â ã. Êàñòîðüÿ, è ÿâëÿåòñÿ ïðåäïðèÿòèåì íà ñåìåéíîì ïîäðÿäå âûñîêîãî óðîâíÿ, ñîçäàííîå ñ áîëüøîé ëþáîâüþ è õîðîøèì âêóñîì. Íîìåðà ãîñòèíèöû ïîëíîñòüþ îáîðóäîâàíû è îòëè÷àþòñÿ ðîñêîøüþ è áîãàòñòâîì äåêîðà, ÷òî äåëàåò ïðåáûâàíèå çäåñü îñîáåííî ïðèÿòíûì è íåçàáûâàåìûì. www. kyknoshotelkastoria.gr, Êàñòîðüÿ
Dazzling smile in only one hour with the help of Robotic Dentistry The latest development in Dental technology is called Robotic Dentistry CAD/CAM-CEREC, is the most widely-known system worldwide and consists of two parts: A digital scanning device (Software-Cad). When we polish the teeth, we take a picture with the scanner and with the help of developed Cerec software we digitally design in 10 minutes the final restoration based on the needs of the oral cavity of each patient, since the system has a 'simulator' which is able to compare the teeth of the dentition, define the convergence and the appearance that we will give. Furthermore, we can present the final aesthetic restoration result to the patient and fix any defect. The device gives us the opportunity for aesthetic perfection, since color modification is possible. The second part of the system is the cutting part, a high-precision 'drill engine' that cuts and processes allceramic blocks, giving the final shape and form based on the given orders. The advantages of the method are the following: no measurements that used to cause discomfort to the patient, high precision, patient's participation in the formation his smile, since before its completion he is able to see it and simulate the desired result in CAD-CAM screen, discuss, make changes and impress the result exactly as it was anticipated by the patient in his mouth. Also a big advantage is that the patient obtains his final denture in only one visit, since the cutting tool can prepare it within 20 minutes. Moreover, a 'make up' can be directly performed, that is to say exact individualization of the restoration color, creating the perfect smile in matters of aesthetics and functionality. If the treatment is combined with whitening (KTP-laser), gum plastic surgery with laser (gum line) and proper advice on hygiene the patient will have a healthy, dazzling smile for the rest of his life.
Ìáñßá ×áôæÜêç
Maria Hatzaki
Ïäïíôßáôñïò ÁéóèçôéêÞ ïäïíôéáôñéêÞ, ñïìðïôéêÞ ïäïíôéáôñéêÞ
Dentist cosmetic dentistry, robotic dentistry
Åêôõöëùôéêü ÷áìüãåëï óå ìßá ìüëéò þñá, ìå ôç âïÞèåéá ôçò ÑïìðïôéêÞò ÏäïíôéáôñéêÞò Ç ôåëåõôáßá åîÝëéîç ôçò ÏäïíôéáôñéêÞò ôå÷íïëïãßáò ëÝãåôáé ÑïìðïôéêÞ ÏäïíôéáôñéêÞ CAD/CAM-CEREC åßíáé ôï ðéï äéáäåäïìÝíï óýóôçìá óôïí êüóìï, êáé áðïôåëåßôáé áðü äõï ìÝñç: Åíá ìç÷Üíçìá øçöéáêÞò óÜñùóçò (Software-Cad), ðïõ áöïý ôñï÷ßóïõìå ôá äüíôéá, ìå ôïí óáñùôÞ ðáßñíïõìå ìßá öùôïãñáößá ôïõò êáé ìÝóù ôïõ åîåëéãìÝíïõ ëïãéóìéêïý Cerec ó÷åäéÜæïõìå øçöéáêÜ ìÝóá óå 10 ëåðôÜ ôçí ôåëéêÞ ìáò áðïêáôÜóôáóç, óýìöùíá ìå ôéò áíÜãêåò ôçò óôïìáôéêÞò êïéëüôçôáò ôïõ êÜèå áóèåíÞ, áöïý ôï óýóôçìá Ý÷åé "ðñïóïìïéùôÞ", ðïõ êáèïñßæåé ôç ó÷Ýóç ôïõ ìå ôá Üëëá äüíôéá ôïõ öñáãìïý, ôç óýãêëéóç ôïõ êáé ôçí áéóèçôéêÞ ðïõ èá ôïõ áðïäþóïõìå. Áêüìç ìðïñïýìå íá ðáñïõóéÜóïõìå ôçí ôåëéêÞ áéóèçôéêÞ áðïêáôÜóôáóç óôïí áóèåíÞ êáé íá äéïñèþóïõìå ïðïéáäÞðïôå áôÝëåéá. Ôï ìç÷Üíçìá ìáò äßíåé äõíáôüôçôåò áéóèçôéêÞò ôåëåéüôçôáò, áöïý åßíáé äõíáôÞ ç ôñïðïðïßçóç ÷ñþìáôïò. Ôï äåýôåñï ìÝñïò ôïõ óõóôÞìáôïò åßíáé ôï êïðôéêü ìÝñïò, Ýíáò "ôüñíïò" õøçëÞò áêñßâåéáò ðïõ êüâåé êáé åðåîåñãÜæåôáé ôá ïëïêåñáìéêá blocks, ðñïóäßäïíôáò ôåëéêü ó÷Þìá êáé ìïñöÞ ìå âÜóç ôéò åíôïëÝò ðïõ ôïõ äþóáìå. Ôá ðëåïíåêôçìáôá ôçò ìåèüäïõ åßíáé: ç ðáíôåëÞò áðïõóßá ìÝôñùí, ðïõ ðñïêáëïýí äõóöïñßá óôïí áóèåíÞ, ç áðüëõôç áêñßâåéá, ç óõììåôï÷Þ ôïõ áóèåíÞ óôçí äçìéïõñãßá ôïõ ÷áìüãåëïõ ôïõ,áöïý ðñéí êáôáóêåõáóèåß Ý÷åé ôç äõíáôüôçôá íá ôï äåß, êáé íá ðñïóïìïéùèåß ôï åðéèõìçôü áðïôÝëåóìá óôçí ïèüíç CAD-CAM, íá óõæçôçèåß, íá ãßíïõí áëëáãÝò êáé ôï áðïôÝëåóìá íá ìåôáöåñèåß ìå ðéóôüôçôá ìÝóá óôï óôüìá. Åðéóçò, ðëåïíÝêôçìá áðïôåëåß ôï üôé ï áóèåíÞò öåýãåé ìå ôá ôåëéêÜ ôïõ äüíôéá óå ìßá ìüíï åðßóêåøç, áöïý ôï êïðôéêü ìç÷Üíçìá ôá êáôáóêåõÜæåé óå 20 ëåðôÜ. Åðéðñüóèåôá ìðïñåß íá ãßíåé Üìåóá "ìáêéãéÜæ", äçëáäÞ áðüëõôç åîáôïìßêåõóç ôïõ ÷ñþìáôïò ôçò áðïêáôÜóôáóçò,äçìéïõñãþíôáò ôï ôÝëåéï áéóèçôéêÜ êáé ëåéôïõñãéêÜ ÷áìüãåëï. Áí óõíäõáóôåß ç èåñáðåßá ìå ëåýêáíóç (KTP-laser), ïõëïðëáóôéêÞ ìå laser (gum line) êáé óùóôÝò óõìâïõëÝò õãéåéíÞò ï áóèåíÞò èá Ý÷åé Ýíá õãéÝò, åêôõöëùôéêü ÷áìüãåëï ãéá ôçí õðüëïéðç æùÞ ôïõ.
Îñëåïèòåëüíàÿ óëûáêà âñåãî ëèøü çà îäèí ÷àñ ñ ïîìîùüþ óíèêàëüíîé êîìïüþòåðíîé CAD/CAM-CEREC òåõíîëîãèè Òåõíîëîãèÿ êîìïüþòåðíîé ðåñòàâðàöèè çóáîâ CAD/CAM-CEREC íà äàííûé ìîìåíò ýòî íàèáîëåå ñîâåðøåííàÿ ìåòîäèêà â îáëàñòè êîìïüþòåðíîé ðåñòàâðàöèè çóáîâ. Ýòî ïîëíîñòüþ êîìïüþòåðèçèðîâàííûé ïðîöåññ ìîäåëèðîâàíèÿ è èçãîòîâëåíèÿ êîðîíîê, öåëüíîêåðàìè÷åñêèõ âêëàäîê, âèíèðîâ, ìîñòîâ, ïîçâîëÿþùèõ ñêîððåêòèðîâàòü íå òîëüêî îòòåíîê ýìàëè, íî è ôîðìó çóáîâ, åñëè îíè íåñîâåðøåííû îò ïðèðîäû. Êàê ïðîèñõîäèò ïðîöåññ ðåñòàâðàöèè çóáîâ ïî òåõíîëîãèè CEREC? Ïðîöåäóðà ñîñòîèò èç äâóõ ýòàïîâ: Âðà÷-ñòîìàòîëîã ïðîâîäèò ïîäãîòîâêó ðîòîâîé ïîëîñòè ïàöèåíòà è ïðè ïîìîùè ñîâðåìåííîãî öèôðîâîãî ñêàíåðà (SoftwareCad) âûïîëíÿåò «îïòè÷åñêèé ñëåïîê» ñâîåãî ðîäà ôîòîãðàôèþ. Âñÿ ïðîöåäóðà äëèòñÿ äî 10 ìèíóò. Çàòåì ýòà èíôîðìàöèÿ ïîñòóïàåò íà êîìïüþòåð, ãäå ñ ïîìîùüþ ñïåöèàëüíîé ïðîãðàììû ôîðìèðóåòñÿ îïòèìàëüíàÿ ìîäåëü áóäóùèõ êîðîíêè, âêëàäêè èëè âèíèðà. Íî íå òîëüêî. Ïðè íåîáõîäèìîñòè ïðîãðàììà èíôîðìèðóåò âðà÷à î òîì, ÷òî òðåáóåòñÿ äîïîëíèòåëüíàÿ ïîäãîòîâêà ðîòîâîé ïîëîñòè. Òàêîãî íåò íè â îäíîé äðóãîé ñèñòåìå âîññòàíîâëåíèÿ çóáîâ.
 äàëüíåéøåì ïîëó÷åííàÿ èíôîðìàöèÿ ïîñòóïàåò â àïïàðàò, â êîòîðîì èç áëîêîâ öèðêîíèÿ âûòà÷èâàåòñÿ áóäóùàÿ êîíñòðóêöèÿ. Ýòà îïåðàöèÿ òîæå êîìïüþòåçèðîâàíà. Íó à ñòîìàòîëîã âûáèðàåò íóæíûé îòòåíîê êîðîíêè, âêëàäêè, âèíèðà, ñ òåì ÷òîáû îí áûë ìàêñèìàëüíî ïðèáëèæåí ê ïðèðîäíîìó öâåòó çóáîâ ïàöèåíòà. Áëàãîäàðÿ êîìïüþòåðíîìó ìîäåëèðîâàíèþ èçãîòîâëåííàÿ êîíñòðóêöèÿ îêàçûâàåòñÿ íàñòîëüêî òî÷íîé, ÷òî íèêàêèå äîðàáîòêè óæå íå íóæíû. À ñàì ïðîöåññ ðåñòàâðàöèè çóáîâ ïî íîâîé òåõíîëîãèè CEREC íå âûçûâàåò äèñêîìôîðòíûõ îùóùåíèé ó ïàöèåíòà è íå òðåáóåò äëèòåëüíîãî âðåìåíè ïîäãîíêè, êàê ïðè ðó÷íîì èçãîòîâëåíèè ìîäåëè. Âèíèðû, ìîñòû è âêëàäêè èçãîòàâëèâàþòñÿ èç öèðêîíèÿ ëåãêîãî, ïðî÷íîãî è âûñîêî ýñòåòè÷íîãî ìàòåðèàëà. Îí ëèøåí íåäîñòàòêîâ äðóãèõ ïëîìáèðîâî÷íûõ ìàòåðèàëîâ, êîòîðûå ñ òå÷åíèåì âðåìåíè äàþò óñàäêó, ÷òî èíîãäà ïðèâîäèò ê íàðóøåíèþ êðàåâîãî ïðèëåãàíèÿ è ðèñêó âîçíèêíîâåíèÿ âòîðè÷íîãî êàðèåñà. È ãëàâíîå, CEREC ýòî íå äåëî äàëåêîãî áóäóùåãî è íå ýêñïåðèìåíòàëüíûé ìåòîä, à èñïûòàííàÿ òåõíîëîãèÿ âîññòàíîâëåíèÿ çóáîâ, äîñòóïíàÿ óæå ñåãîäíÿ. Íó à ðåçóëüòàò îñëåïèòåëüíàÿ óëûáêà, êîòîðàÿ îòêðîåò ïåðåä âàìè âñå äâåðè!
Åñëè êîìïüþòåðíàÿ ðåñòàâðàöèÿ çóáîâ áóäåò ñîâìåùåíà ñ îòáåëèâàíèåì çóáîâ (KTO-lazer), ãèíâîïëàñòèêîé ñ ïîìîùüþ ëàçåðà (gum line) è ðåêîìåíäàöèé âðà÷à, ïàöèåíò áóäåò èìåòü îñëåïèòåëüíóþ óëûáêó íà âñþ îñòàâøóþñÿ æèçíü.
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Saman Relax Center
Saman Relax Center The Saman Relax Center has been active in the field of Body Relaxation since 2007. In 2012 the Center expanded its activities to include hair and beauty services. It also enters into contracts with hotels to manage their SPA areas, and with businesses to hold tour events for their staff in the framework of preventive balneotherapy and beauty spa treatments. Pozar Thermal Baths, Aridaia, Pella-Macedonia. Tel.: 23840 91209 / 6999214092 Loutraki, Corinthia, Tel.: 27440 22202 Within the Genesis Clinic in Thessaloniki, Tel.: 23177 22209 www.relaxcenter.gr
Ñàìàí ðåëàêñ-öåíòð
åóôéáôüñéï
Äéüíõóïò
H Saman Relax Center, äñáóôçñéïðïéåßôáé óôï ÷þñï ôçò ÓùìáôéêÞò ×áëÜñùóçò áðü ôï 2007 åíþ áðü ôï 2012 ðáñÝ÷åé êáé õðçñåóßåò ÁéóèçôéêÞò-ÊïììùôéêÞò. Åðßóçò, óõíÜðôåé óõìâÜóåéò Ýñãïõ ôüóï ìå Îåíïäï÷åßá ãéá ôç äéá÷åßñéóç ÷þñùí SPA üóï êáé ìå Åðé÷åéñÞóåéò ãéá tour events ðñïò ôá óôåëÝ÷ç óôá ðëáßóéá ôçò ÐñïëçðôéêÞò Ëïõôñïèåñáðåßáò êáé Beauty Spa. ËïõôñÜ Ðüæáñ, Áñéäáßá, ÐÝëëá-Ìáêåäïíßá. Ôçë: 23840 91209 / 6999214092 ËïõôñÜêé Êïñéíèßáò Ôçë: 27440 22202 Åíôüò ÃÝíåóéò-Èåó/íßêç Ôçë: 23177 22209 www.relaxcenter.gr
Óå áðüóôáóç 3 ÷éë. áðü ôá éáìáôéêÜ ëïõôñÜ "Ðüæáñ", óôïõò ðñüðïäåò ôïõ üñïõò Âüñáò (ÊáúìÜêôóáëáí) âñßóêåôáé ÷ôéóìÝíï ôï ãñáöéêü ÷ùñéü ôçò ¼ñìáò. Óôçí ðëáôåßá ôïõ ÷ùñéïý êÜôù áðü ôá õðåñáéùíüâéá ðëáôÜíéá êáé äßðëá óå ãÜñãáñá íåñÜ, óáò ðåñéìÝíåé Ýíá öéëéêü êáé æåóôü ðåñéâÜëëïí ãéá íá óáò ôáîéäÝøåé óå íÝïõò ãåõóôéêïýò ðñïïñéóìïýò. Ôï åóôéáôüñéï "ÄÉÏÍÕÓÏÓ". Èåóìüò óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ, üðïõ óôá 20 ÷ñüíéá ëåéôïõñãßáò ôïõ ðáñïõóéÜæåé ôé èá ðåé êáëÞ åëëçíéêÞ êïõæßíá! ÐéÜôá êáëïìáãåéñåìÝíá ìå ìåñÜêé êáé óåâáóìü óôçí ðáñÜäïóç, ðáñáäïóéáêÝò óõíôáãÝò ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò êáé ãéá ôïõò ðéï ôïëìçñïýò, íÝïõò ãåõóôéêïýò óõíäõáóìïýò! Ðéï óõãêåêñéìÝíá, èá óáò ðñïôåßíáìå íá ãåõôåßôå ðáñáäïóéáêü "ÔóïìðëÝêé", "Áãñéïãïýñïõíï ìå êÜóôáíá", "×ïéñéíü ìå êõäþíéá êáé äáìÜóêçíá”, “ÌðáìðáëÜóêåò" êáé êÜðïéï(áí ü÷é üëá!) ðéÜôï áðü ôéò ÷åéñïðïßçôåò óïýâëåò ìáò. Åðßóçò ìðïñåßôå íá óõíïäåýóåôå ôï ãåýìá Þ ôï äåßðíï óáò ìå Ýíá ìðïõêÜëé êñáóß áðï ôçí ðëïýóéá êÜâá ìáò. ÔÝëïò, íá óçìåéþóïõìå üôé ôï êáôÜóôçìá ìáò åßíáé ìÝëïò ôïõ äéêôýïõ "Äñüìïé Ôïõ Êñáóéïý Ôçò Âïñåßïõ ÅëëÜäïò". Ô.23840 94410/94436, www.dionysosorma.gr
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H Ñàìàí ðåëàêñ-öåíòð ðàáîòàåò â ñôåðå ôèçè÷åñêîé ðåëàêñàöèè ñ 2007 ãîäà è ñ 2012 ãîäà è ïðåäîñòàâëÿåò óñëóãè ïàðèêìàõåðà è ýñòåòà. Çàêëþ÷àòü äîãîâîðû ñ îòåëÿìè äëÿ ïî ïðåäîñòàâëåíèþ óñëóã ïî óïðàâëåíèþ SPA ñàëîíàìè è ñ ïðåäïðèÿòèÿìè â ðàìêàõ tour events äëÿ ñëóæàùèõ áàëíåîëîãè÷åñêîé êóðîðòîëîãèè è Beauty Spa. Ëóòðà Ïîçàð, Àðèäåà, Ïåëëà-Ìàêåäîíèÿ. Òåëåôîí: 23840 91209/6999214092 Ëóòðàêè Êîðèíôèÿ Òåëåôîí: 27440 22202 Öåíòð «Åíòîñ Ãåíåñèñ» â ãîðîäå Ñàëîíèêè Òåëåôîí: 23177 22209 www.relaxcenter.gr
Restaurant Dionysos Within a distance of 3 km from the hot therapeutic springs of "Pozar", at the foot of Mount Voras (aka Kaimaktsalan), lies a picturesque village called Orma. In the village square, under the perennial plane trees and next to the gurgling waters, you'll find situated a friendly and cosy surroundings, which is definitely going to lead you to new savoury pleasures. The Restaurant "Dionysos", through its 20 years of running, has managed to become an institution in the local area, by presenting samples of quality greek cuisine! Our well-cooked dishes which respect tradition, traditional local recipes and, for the most spirited ones, even new savoury combinations! More specifically, we suggest that you should taste the traditional "Tsobleki", "Wild Boar with chestnuts", "Pork with quince and plums", "Babalaskes" and of course one (if not all!) of our hand-made skewers. You can also accompany your meal or your dinner with a bottle of our abundant wine-vault. Finally,we would like to point out that our restaurant is a member of the network "Roads of Wine of Northern Greece". Ô.23840 94410/94436, www.dionysosorma.gr
Ðåñòîðàí Äèîíèñîñ  3-õ êì. îò òåðìàëüíûõ èñòî÷íèêîâ "Ïîçàð", ó ïîäíîæèÿ ãîðû Âîðàñ (Êàéìàêòñàëàí) ðàñïîëîæåíî æèâîïèñíîå ïîñåëåíèå Îðìà. Íà äåðåâåíñêîé ïëîùàäè ïîä ìíîãîëåòíèìè ïëàòàíàìè, ðÿäîì ñ æóð÷àùåé âîäîé, âàñ æäåò òåïëàÿ è äðóæåñòâåííàÿ àòìîñôåðà, ÷òîáû óíåñòè â íîâûå âêóñîâûå ïóòåøåñòâèÿ - â ðåñòîðàí "Äèîíèñîñ", ñòàâøèé óæå òðàäèöèåé äëÿ ðåãèîíà, êîòîðûé çà 20 ëåò ñâîåé ðàáîòû íà äåëå ïîêàçûâàåò, ÷òî çíà÷èò õîðîøàÿ ãðå÷åñêàÿ êóõíÿ! Ðåñòîðàí «Äèîíèñîñ» - ýòî âêóñíåéøèå áëþäà, ïðèãîòîâëåííûå ñ ëþáîâüþ è óâàæåíèåì ê òðàäèöèè, òðàäèöèîííûå ðåöåïòû ðåãèîíà, à äëÿ ñàìûõ ñìåëûõ è ëþáîçíàòåëüíûõ - íîâûå êîìáèíàöèè âêóñà!  ÷àñòíîñòè, ìû ïðåäëàãàåì âàì îòâåäàòü òàêèå òðàäèöèîííûå áëþäà, êàê "Òñîìïëåêè" (ãîâÿäèíà ñ îâîùàìè è êàðòîôåëåì, çàïå÷åííàÿ â ãëèíÿíûõ ãîðøî÷êàõ), "Êàáàí ñ êàøòàíàìè», «Ñâèíèíà ñ ÷åðíîñëèâîì è àéâîé", "Ìïàìïàëàñêåñ", à òàêæå íåêîòîðûå (åñëè íå âñå!) âèäû áëþä, ïðèãîòîâëåííûå íà ðó÷íûõ âåðòåëàõ. Êðîìå òîãî, âû ìîæåòå ñîïðîâîäèòü âàø îáåä èëè óæèí áóòûëêîé âèíà èç áîãàòîãî àññîðòèìåíòà íàøåãî ïîãðåáà. È, íàêîíåö, íåîáõîäèìî îòìåòèòü, ÷òî íàø ðåñòîðàí ÿâëÿåòñÿ ÷ëåíîì ñåòè "Âèííûå äîðîãè Ñåâåðíîé Ãðåöèè". Ô.23840 94410/94436, www.dionysosorma.gr
The betterfly list
La Tabernita Áíïéêôü êáèçìåñéíÜ ìå ÌåîéêÜíéêåò ãåýóåéò, ôñïðéêÜ Coctails êáé Þ÷ïõò áðü ËáôéíéêÞ ÁìåñéêÞ! Ìéá îå÷ùñéóôÞ ðñüôáóç ðïõ óõíäõÜæåé ðïôü êáé öáãçôü êáèþò åêôüò áðü ôï ÷þñï ôïõ åóôéáôïñßïõ äéáèÝôåé êáé bar ãéá íá áðïëáýóåôå ôá áãáðçìÝíá óáò coctails. Ãéá öáãçôü óáò ðñïôåßíïõìå fajitas, enchiladas, chimichangas êáé pollo en mole åíþ ãéá coctails mojito, chaipirinia êáé margarita. Ôï bar ôïõ La Tabernita Mexicana ëåéôïõñãåß êáé áõôüíïìá áí ç äéÜèåóç óáò åßíáé ìüíï ãéá ðïôü. Áíïéêôü êáèçìåñéíÜ áðü ôéò 11:00 ôï ðñùß Ýùò áñãÜ ôï âñÜäõ, åêôüò áðü ÄåõôÝñá. Óïëùìïý 31, ÔÝíåäïò, ÊÝñêõñá T. 26610 42328 6974861048 www.latabernita.gr
Everyday open with Mexican food, tropical Cocktails and Latin America sounds! A unique proposal combining drink and food since apart from the restaurant there is a bar where you can enjoy your favorite cocktail. We propose that you taste fajitas, enchiladas, chimichangas and pollo en mole and drink mojitos, chaipirinias and margaritas. 'La Tabernita' Mexican bar operates independently if you just want to have a drink. Everyday open from earl evening until late at night, except for Monday. Solomou 31, Tenedos Corfu T. 26610 42328 6974861048 www.latabernita.gr
Áàð-ðåñòîðàí La Tabernita Mexicana ðàáîòàåò åæåäíåâíî è ïðåäëàãàåò ñâîèì ïîñåòèòåëÿì ìåêñèêàíñêèå áëþäà è òðîïè÷åñêèå êîêòåéëè ïîä çâóêè ìóçûêè èç Ëàòèíñêîé Àìåðèêè! Ýòî óäèâèòåëüíîå ìåñòî äëÿ îòäûõà, êîòîðîå ïðåäñòàâëÿåò ñîáîé óíèêàëüíîå ñî÷åòàíèå áàðà è ðåñòîðàíà. Çäåñü âû ñìîæåòå íàñëàäèòüñÿ âêóñíîé åäîé â ïîìåùåíèè ðåñòîðàíà è ëþáèìûì êîêòåéëåì â áàðå. Ìû ïðåäëàãàåì âàì ïîïðîáîâàòü òàêèå áëþäà, êàê ôàõèòàñ, ýí÷èëàäàñ, ÷èìè÷àíãàñ è «Ïîëüî ýí ìîëå», à òàêæå èçâåñòíûå êîêòåéëè ìîõèòî, êàéïèðèíüÿ è ìàðãàðèòà. Àâòîíîìíûé áàð La Tabernita Mexicana ïðèâëåêàåò ïîñåòèòåëåé, íå æåëàþùèõ ïîåñòü, à ïðîñòî íàñëàäèòüñÿ ñâîèì ëþáèìûì, âûáðàííûì â áàðå íàïèòêîì. Áàð-ðåñòîðàí oòêðûòî åæåäíåâíî, êðîìå ïîíåäåëüíèêà, ñ ïîëóäíÿ äî ïîçäíåãî âå÷åðà. óëèöà Ñîëîìó 31, Òåíåäîñ, Êåðêèðà, T. 26610 42328 6974861048 www.latabernita.gr
Áíôß-êáéñïß
Anti-kairi
210 betterfly magazine
Antikeri Þ “Áíôß-êáéñïß”, óôçí ðëáôåßá Äçìáñ÷åßïõ óôçí ðáëéÜ ðüëç ôçò ÊÝñêõñáò, åßíáé ðñÜãìáôé ìéá ðñüêëçóç. Ñïý÷á ìå éôáëéêÞ öéíÝôóá, êáðÝëá, öïõëÜñéá, ìïíáäéêÝò åóÜñðåò, îå÷ùñéóôÜ êïììÜôéá ôóÜíôåò êáôåõèåßáí áðü ôçí Ìðïëüíéá, ÷åéñïðïßçôá êïóìÞìáôá, åîåæçôçìÝíá áîåóïõÜñ, ðáëéÜ öùôéóôéêÜ, êÜðïéïé ðßíáêåò íôüðéùí Êåñêõñáßùí æùãñÜöùí, ìåñéêÜ ìïíáäéêÜ Ýðéðëá, ìéíéáôïýñåò áðü ìéóïîå÷áóìÝíá limperty, áõèåíôéêÜ ÷åéñïðïßçôá êáëëõíôéêÜ êáé óïõâÝñ êáé üôé Üëëï âÜëåé ï íïõò, ìðïñåß íá áíáêáëýøåé ï êáèÝíáò åäþ. Ô. +30 26610 43090
A visit to this special antique antiquerie shop located on Dimarcheiou square in the old town of Corfu is a true challenge for visitors. One can discover here elegant Italian clothing, hats, scarves, shawls, special purses from Bologna, hand-made jewelry, sophisticated accessories, old lighting pieces, paintings by Corfiot artists, some unique pieces of furniture, miniatures, hand-made cosmetics, coasters and anything else one can possibly imagine. Ô. +30 26610 43090
Àíòè-êåðè Àíòè-êåðè, íà ïëîùàäè Äèìàðõèó â ñòàðîì ãîðîäå Êîðôó, ñòàíåò äëÿ âàñ íàñòîÿùèì âûçîâîì. Àíòè-êåðè áðîñàåò âûçîâ âîîáðàæåíèþ è ïðèãëàøàåò âàñ ìûñëåííî îñóùåñòâèòü ïóòåøåñòâèå â ìèð, ïîëíûé öâåòîâ, îðèãèíàëüíûõ èçäåëèé. Èçÿùíàÿ îäåæäà â èòàëüÿíñêîì ñòèëå, øàïêè, øàðôû, óíèêàëüíûå ïàëàíòèíû, àâòîðñêèå ñóìêè íåïîñðåäñòâåííî èç Áîëîíüè, þâåëèðíûå èçäåëèÿ ðó÷íîé ðàáîòû, ìîäíûå àêñåññóàðû, ñòàðûå ñâåòèëüíèêè, êàðòèíû ìåñòíûõ õóäîæíèêîâ Êîðôó, óíèêàëüíàÿ ìåáåëü, ìèíèàòþðû ïîëóçàáûòûõ ñóäîâ òèïà «Ëèáåðòè», íàòóðàëüíàÿ êîñìåòèêà ðó÷íîé ðàáîòû, ïîäñòàâêè, è ìíîãîå äðóãîå - çäåñü åñòü âñå, î ÷åì òîëüêî. Ô. +30 26610 43090
The betterfly list
G
LIST
G
LIST
At G LIST fashion does not necessarily mean wearing what nowadays is commanded. Fashion is a statement and way of life!!! At G LISTclothes become a way for culture expression. Clothing, shoes and accessories colle ctions are always selected based on style and this is what particularly makes them "fetish objects" for women for years now. 1, Ag. Sofias, Thessaloniki and Athens, Kolonaki, Kifisia and Glyfada
G
Óôï G LIST ìüäá äåí åßíáé áðëÜ «öïñÜù áõôü ðïõ åðéôÜóóåé ç êÜèå åðï÷Þ». Åßíáé Üðïøç êáé óôÜóç æùÞò!!! Ôá ñïý÷á ãßíïíôáé åäþ ôï ìÝóï ãéá Ýêöñáóç ðïëéôéóìïý. Ïé óõëëïãÝò ñïý÷ùí, õðïäçìÜôùí êáé áîåóïõÜñ åßíáé ðÜíôá åðéëåãìÝíåò ìå êýñéï ãíþìïíá ôçí áãÜðç ãéá ôï óôõë êáé áõôü åßíáé ôï éäéáßôåñï ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêü ðïõ ôéò êÜíåé « ëáôñåìÝíá áíôéêåßìåíá » ôùí ãõíáéêþí åäþ êáé ÷ñüíéá. Áãßáò Óïößáò 1, Èåóóáëïíßêç êáé óôçí ÁèÞíá óôï ÊïëùíÜêé, óôçí ÊçöéóéÜ êáé óôçí ÃëõöÜäá
ÃåñÜêçò
LIST
Ñ î ã ë à ñ í î ê î í ö å ï ö è è ìGà ã LIST àçèíîâ ìîäíî îäåâàòüñÿ íå îçíà÷àåò ïðîñòî "íîñèòü îäåæäó ïî ñåçîíó". Ìîäà ýòî ïðåæäå âñåãî îòíîøåíèå ê æèçíè!  G LIST îäåæäà ñòàíîâèòñÿ ñðåäñòâîì ñàìîâûðàæåíèÿ ëè÷íîñòè è ïîêàçàòåëåì åå êóëüòóðû. Ìû âûáèðàåì äëÿ âàñ êîëëåêöèè îäåæäû, îáóâè è àêñåññóàðîâ äåëàÿ îñîáûé àêöåíò íà ëþáâè ê ñòèëþ, è ïîýòîìó ìîäåëè íàøèõ êîëëåêöèé ïîëüçóþòñÿ íåèçìåííîé ëþáîâüþ è ïîïóëÿðíîñòüþ ñðåäè æåíùèí â òå÷åíèå ìíîãèõ ëåò. Íàøè ìàãàçèíû íàõîäÿòñÿ ïî óë. Àãèàñ Ñîôèàñ 1, â Ñàëîíèêàõ è â Àôèíàõ â ðàéîíàõ Êîëîíàêè, Êèôèñèÿ è Ãëèôàäà
¸íá êáôÜóôçìá ìå ðñïéüíôá õøçëþí ðñïäéáãñáöþí, ðïõ áíôáðïêñßíåôáé óôéò áðáéôÞóåéò êÜèå áãïñáóôÞ, óå ôéìÝò éäéáßôåñá ñåáëéóôéêÝò. Åäþ ìðïñåßôå íá âñåßôå ôÝíôåò êáé óõóôÞìáôá óêßáóçò, Ýðéðëá êÞðïõ, óÞôåò, ðôõóóüìåíá ôæÜìéá, áíôçëéáêÝò ìåìâñÜíåò êáé ìåìâñÜíåò áóöáëåßáò 3Ì, øçóôáñéÝò WEBER, üðùò êáé ìéá ìåãÜëç ãêÜìá åéäþí åðáããåëìáôéêïý åîïðëéóìïý ãéá îåíïäï÷åßá, Beachbar êôë. ¸íáò äéá÷ñïíéêüò ÷þñïò , ìå ðëçèþñá åðéëïãþí ãéá üëïõò. 1ï ÷ëì Ìïõäáíéþí-ÊáóóÜíäñáò, ×áëêéäéêÞ, ôçë. 2373021121
Gerakis The Gerakis store sells products that meet high specifications and the demands of every buyer at realistic prices. Here you will find awnings and shading systems, garden furniture, window screens, folding glass doors, sun control window films and 3M security window films, WEBER barbecues, as well as a wide range of professional equipment for hotels, beach bars, etc. A long-standing business that offers a variety of choices for everybody. 1st km on the Moudania-Kassandra road, Chalkidiki, T: +30 2373021121
Ãåãàêèñ Ìàãàçèí ñ òîâàðàìè âûñîêîãî êà÷åñòâà, êîòîðûå îòâå÷àþò ïîòðåáíîñòÿì êàæäîãî ïîêóïàòåëÿ, ïî î÷åíü ðåàëèñòè÷íûì öåíàì. Çäåñü âû ñìîæåòå íàéòè ïàëàòêè è íàâåñû, ìåáåëü äëÿ ñàäà, ïðîòèâîìîñêèòíûå ñåòêè, ñêëàäûâàþùèåñÿ îêíà, ñîëíöåçàùèòíûå ïë¸íêè è ïë¸íêè áåçîïàñíîñòè 3M, ãðèëè WEBER, à òàêæå øèðîêèé ñïåêòð òîâàðîâ ïðîôåññèîíàëüíîãî îáîðóäîâàíèÿ äëÿ îòåëåé, Beachbar è ò.ä. Êëàññè÷åñêîå ìåñòî, ñ áîëüøèì âûáîðîì äëÿ âñåõ. 1é êì øîññå Ìóäàíüÿ Êàññàíäðà Õàëêèäèêè, T: +30 2373021121
212 betterfly magazine
Äüóðñá Ìáñßá Äåñìáôïëüãïò - Áöñïäéóéïëüãïò Dermatologist-Venereologist
¢ìåóç áíáíÝùóç êáé óýóöéîç ôïõ ðñïóþðïõ Ôï íÝï áíáßìáêôï face lift, åßíáé ìßá áóöáëÞò ìÝèïäïò ðïõ ðñáãìáôïðïéåßôáé ìå ôïðéêÞ áíáéóèçóßá óôï éáôñåßï óå ìéá ìüíï åðßóêåøç äéÜñêåéáò ìéÜìéóç þñáò. Ðñüêåéôáé ãéá ìéá ôåëåßùò áíþäõíç äéáäéêáóßá óôç äéÜñêåéá ôçò ïðïßáò åöáñìüæïíôáé åîåéäéêåõìÝíá áðïññïöÞóéìá íÞìáôá ôåëåõôáßáò ôå÷íïëïãßáò óôï ÷üñéï ôïõ äÝñìáôïò. ¸ôóé åíåñãïðïéïýíôáé ïé éíïâëÜóôåò óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ, åíþ ðáñÜëëçëá ðåôõ÷áßíïõìå õðåñðáñáãùãÞ êïëëáãüíïõ êáé åëáóôßíçò. Ìå áõôÞ ôçí áíôßäñáóç ïäçãåßôáé ôï äÝñìá óå áíáæùïãüíçóç êáé óôáèåñü ðïéüôçôáò ôï áðïôåëÝóìáôá óýóöéîçò ìÝóù ôçò áíáäüìçóÞò ôïõ. ¸ôóé ðåôõ÷áßíïõìå ôçí áíüñèùóç ôùí ðáñåéþí êáé ôïõ ëáéìïý, åíþ ÷Üñéò óôá åéäéêÜ áõôÜ íÞìáôá åðáíÝñ÷ïíôáé ïé ÷áëáñùìÝíïé éóôïß ôïõ ðñïóþðïõ óôçí èÝóç ðïõ åß÷áí ðñéí áðü ÷ñüíéá. ÌÝóá óôá ðëåïíåêôÞìáôá ôçò ìåèüäïõ åßíáé üôé äåí áöÞíåé êáíÝíá óçìÜäé, åêôüò ßóùò áðü ìåñéêÝò ìéêñÝò ìåëáíéÝò êáé åðéóôñÝöåé êáíåßò áìÝóùò óôéò óõíçèéóìÝíåò ôïõ äñáóôçñéüôçôåò. Ôá áðïôåëÝóìáôá åßíáé Üìåóá êáé áðüëõôá ïñáôÜ, åíþ âåëôéþíïíôáé ìÝóá óôï ðñþôï ôñßìçíï, ÷áñßæïíôáò ìéá áíáæùïãïíçìÝíç åðéäåñìßäá. Ôá áðïôåëÝóìáôá äéáñêïýí Ýíá ÷ñüíï, åíþ ç èåñáðåßá ìðïñåß íá åðáíáëçöèåß ìÝóá óå Ýíá ÷ñüíï ÷ùñßò êáíÝíá ðåñéïñéóìü. ÌÜëéóôá åÜí óõíäõáóôåß ìå åíÝóéìåò èåñáðåßåò âïôïõëéíéêÞò ôïîßíçò (ÂÏÔÏ×) êáé åìöõôåýìáôá õáëïõñïíéêïý ïîÝïò (FILLERS) ôüôå ôá áðïôåëÝóìáôá åßíáé ðñáãìáôéêÜ åíôõðùóéáêÜ êáé äéáñêïýí ðåñéóóüôåñï!
Immediate rejuvenation and face lift The new bloodless face lift is a safe method using local anesthesia at a medical cabinet during an one and a halfhour visit, only. This is a completely anodyne process applying specialized state-of-the-art absorbable sutures upon the skin chorio. This activates the fibroblast in the area; in parallel we succeed in having an overproduction of elastin and collagen. This reaction rejuvenates the skin and gives a stable quality result of lifting due to the skin restructuring. The end result is the cheek and neck lift, thanks to these special sutures, relaxed face tissue is restored to its past condition. Among the advantages of this method are that it leaves no mark, maybe just some small bruises, and you can go back to your usual activities right away. The results are immediate and very visible, there is great improvement within the first three months, leaving you with a rejuvenated skin. Such results last for one year and this treatment may be repeated in one year, without any constraints. What is more, if combined with injectable BOTOX treatment and hyaluronic acid fillers, then the outcome is really impressive and lasts even more!
Ïðîöåäóðà îìîëîæåíèÿ è ïîäòÿæêè êîæè ëèöà ñ íåìåäëåííûìè ðåçóëüòàòàìè Íîâûé áåçîïåðàöèîííûé ëèôòèíã êîæè ëèöà ÿâëÿåòñÿ ñîâåðøåííî áåçîïàñíîé ïðîöåäóðîé. Îíà âûïîëíÿåòñÿ àìáóëàòîðíî, ïîä ìåñòíîé àíåñòåçèåé, çà îäíî ïîñåùåíèå äëèòåëüíîñòüþ îêîëî ïîëóòîðà ÷àñà. Âî âðåìÿ ýòîé ñîâåðøåííî áåçáîëåçíåííîé ïðîöåäóðû â äåðìó êîæè ââîäÿòñÿ ñïåöèàëèçèðîâàííûå ðàññàñûâàþùèåñÿ íèòè íîâåéøåé òåõíîëîãèè. Òàêèì îáðàçîì, â ðåçóëüòàòå ñòèìóëÿöèè ôèáðîáëàñòîâ â îáëàñòè íàñòóïàåò íåîêîëëàãåíåç è äîñòèãàåòñÿ ïåðåïðîèçâîäñòâî ýëàñòèíà. Ýòà ðåàêöèÿ îðãàíèçìà ïðèâîäèò ê îìîëàæèâàíèþ êîæè è ñòàáèëüíîìó óëó÷øåíèþ å¸ êà÷åñòâà ÷åðåç ðåãåíåðàöèþ. Òàêèì îáðàçîì, äîñòèãàåòñÿ îìîëîæåíèå, âîññòàíîâëåíèå è ïîäòÿæêà ùåê è øåè, è áëàãîäàðÿ ñïåöèàëüíûì íèòÿì ìîæíî âåðíóòü êîæå ëèöà óïðóãîñòü è ïðåæíèé òîíóñ è âèçóàëüíî óìåíüøèòü ñâîé áèîëîãè÷åñêèé âîçðàñò. Ãëàâíûì ïðåèìóùåñòâîì ýòîé ïðîöåäóðû ÿâëÿåòñÿ òî, ÷òî îíà íå îñòàâëÿåò íèêàêèõ ñëåäîâ, çà èñêëþ÷åíèåì âîçìîæíîé ëåãêîé îòå÷íîñòè è íåçíà÷èòåëüíîé ñèíþøíîñòè âîêðóã ìåñò ïðîêîëîâ. Ïàöèåíò âîçâðàùàåòñÿ ê ñâîåé îáû÷íîé äåÿòåëüíîñòè ñðàçó æå ïîñëå ïðîöåäóðû. Ïðîöåäóðà ëèôòèíãà äàåò íåìåäëåííûå âèäèìûå ðåçóëüòàòû. Áëàãîäàðÿ ïðîöåññó ðåãåíåðàöèè, â ïåðâûå òðè ìåñÿöà ïîñëå ïðîöåäóðû ñîñòîÿíèå êîæè ëèöà áóäåò ïîñòîÿííî óëó÷øàòüñÿ è îìîëàæèâàòüñÿ. Ðåçóëüòàòû ëèôòèíãà ñîõðàíÿþòñÿ îêîëî ãîäà. Ïðîöåäóðó ìîæíî ìîæíî ïîâòîðèòü â òå÷åíèå ãîäà áåç êàêèõ-ëèáî îãðàíè÷åíèé. Áåçîïåðàöèîííûé ëèôòèíã íèòÿìè â ñî÷åòàíèè ñ èíúåêöèÿìè áîòóëîòîêñèíà (áîòîêñ) è èíúåêöèîííûìè èìïëàíòàòàìè íà îñíîâå ãèàëóðîíîâîé êèñëîòû (ôèëëåðû) äàåò ïîèñòèíå âïå÷àòëÿþùèé ðåçóëüòàò, êîòîðûé ñîõðàíÿåòñÿ äîëüøå!
Ïä. Åëýôç 15 & Ã. ÐáðáíéêïëÜïõ 76, 570 10 Ðåýêá Èåóóáëïíßêçò / Od. Elyti 15 & G. Papanikolaou 76, Pefka, Thessaloniki T: +30 2310 676787
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
¢ñçò Ôóáíáêëßäçò
¸íáò óçìáíôéêüò åêðñüóùðïò ôçò åëëçíéêÞò êïõæßíáò åßíáé ï ¢ñçò Ôóáíáêëßäçò. ÊïóìïôáîéäåõìÝíïò, êáôáóôáëáãìÝíïò, ãåìÜôïò åìðåéñßåò êáé êáéíïôüìåò éäÝåò áðü ðïëëÝò ðáñáóôÜóåéò, éäÝåò ðïõ «ðáíôñåýåé» ôéò ðåñéóóüôåñåò öïñÝò éäáíéêÜ ìå ðáñáäïóéáêÜ ðéÜôá, äçìéïõñãþíôáò Ýîï÷åò óõíôáãÝò. Ï ¢ñçò Ôóáíáêëßäçò ðáñá÷þñçóå ìéá óýíôïìç óõíÝíôåõîç ãéá ôïõò åðéâÜôåò ôçò Astra Airlines áðïêáëýðôïíôáò êÜðïéåò áðü ôéò óêÝøåéò ôïõ ãéá ôá ó÷Ýäéá ôïõ, êáé ôïõò ðñïâëçìáôéóìïýò ôïõ ãéá ôçí êáèçìåñéíüôçôá, áëëÜ êáé ãéá ôçí åëëçíéêÞ êïõæßíá ðïõ ôçí ëáôñåýåé êáé äåí ôï êñýâåé.
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Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ ëõðëçèõóìéêüôçôáò ôçò ðüëçò êáé ôçò åðéññïÝò ôùí ëáþí ðïõ áðïôåëïýóå ôï ìùóáúêü ôùí êáôïßêùí ôçò ìå áõôÞí. Éóôïñßá êáé êïõæßíá ðÜíå ÷Ýñé- ÷Ýñé. Äåò áêüìá, ãéá íá óïõ åíéó÷ýóù ôá ðñïçãïýìåíá ðüóï ðïëëÝò áñáâéêÝò åðéññïÝò Ý÷åé ç óéêåëéêÞ êïõæßíá óå ó÷Ýóç ìå ôçí õðüëïéðç Éôáëßá, áêüìá êáé ç Íüôéá Éóðáíßá åîáéôßáò ôçò ðáñïõóßáò ãéá ðïëëïýò áéþíåò ôùí Óáñáêçíþí. Åßóôå Ýíáò áíáãíùñßóéìïò, ðïëý ôáëáíôïý÷ïò óåö, óå ìéá ÷þñá ðïõ üìùò äïêéìÜæåôáé «Üãñéá» ôá ôåëåõôáßá ÷ñüíéá áðü ìéá ïéêïíïìéêÞ ýöåóç, ðïõ åê ôùí ðñáãìÜôùí åðçñåÜæåé êáé ôç äïõëåéÜ óáò. Ðïéá ôá ìåëëïíôéêÜ áëëÜ êáé Üìåóá ó÷Ýäéá óáò, Ýóôù êáé ìÝóá óå áõôü ôï áðáéóéüäïîï óêçíéêü ðïõ üëïé âéþíïõìå. ¼÷é, äåí âëÝðù áðáéóéüäïîá ôá ðñÜãìáôá. Åßìáé öýóç áéóéüäïîïò Üíèñùðïò, èÝëù íá âëÝðù ôï ðïôÞñé ìéóïãåìÜôï êáé ü÷é ìéóïÜäåéï. ¢êïõóå, ÷ñåéÜæåôáé íá ðÜñïõìå êÜðïéåò óïâáñÝò áðïöÜóåéò, íá âåëôéùèïýìå, íá áðïâÜëëïõìå ôá ðåñéôôÜ, üëá áõôÜ ðïõ ôá ôåëåõôáßá ÷ñüíéá ìáò êÜíáíå íá ÷Üóïõìå ôçí ïõóßá êáé ç ïõóßá äåí åßíáé ïé ðïëëÝò ðëáóôéêÝò êÜñôåò êáé ï êïìðáóìüò ãéá ìéá óåéñÜ ðñÜãìáôá ÷ùñßò áîßá. ¸÷ïõìå ôá êáëýôåñá ðñïúüíôá, öñïýôá, ëÜäé, êçðåõôéêÜ, áëéåýìáôá, íá åóôéÜóïõìå óå áõôÜ. Åßíáé áðëÜ ôá ðñÜãìáôá, åÜí ðñïóðáèÞóïõìå íá áíáäåßîïõìå ôçí ðïéïôéêÞ äéáöïñÜ ôùí ðñïúüíôùí ìáò. ¼ôáí ôï êáôáíïÞóïõìå áõôü, üðùò Üëëùóôå êáé óôïí ôïìÝá ôùí õðçñåóéþí, êáé äåí ìðåñäåýïõìå ôá ðñÜãìáôá, üëá èá ðÜíå êáëýôåñá.
Êýñéå Ôóáíáêëßäç, èá îåêéíÞóù ìå ìéá åñþôçóç ðïõ ó÷åäüí ðÜíôá ÷ñçóéìïðïéþ óáí åéóáãùãéêü óçìåßùìá ãéá íá óêéáãñáöÞóù ôïí óõíïìéëçôÞ ìïõ. Ðïéá åßíáé ëïéðüí ç ó÷Ýóç ìáò ìå ôçí ìáãåéñéêÞ ðÝñá áðü ôçí «ðñïöáíÞ». ÁíáöÝñïìáé óôçí óõíÜñôçóç ôçò ãéá ôçí äéáìüñöùóç ôùí åðéëïãþí ôçò æùÞò óáò, ôïõ ÷áñáêôÞñá óáò, ôùí óõíáéóèçìÜôùí óáò êáé åí ôÝëåé ôçò êáèçìåñéíüôçôáò óáò; Ç ìáãåéñéêÞ åßíáé üëç ìïõ ç æùÞ, åßíáé ìéá ìåãÜëç áãÜðç, åßíáé ôï ìÝóïí ãéá ôá ðñïò ôï æçí, åßíáé ôá ðÜíôá, êáôáëõôéêÜ üìùò ôá ðÜíôá ãéá åìÝíá! ¸íá öôù÷ü ðáéäß ðïõ îåêßíçóå áðü ôç Èåóóáëïíßêç, êáé êáôüñèùóå ìÝóá áðü áõôÞí íá ãßíåé êÜðïéïò, íá ãíùñßóåé åíäéáöÝñïíôåò áíèñþðïõò, íá ôáîéäÝøåé óå üëï ôïí êüóìï êáé íá áðïêôÞóåé ðïëëÝò êáé óçìáíôéêÝò åõêáéñßåò. ÌåóïãåéáêÞ äéáôñïöÞ. Ãßíåôáé ðïëý ëüãïò ãéá áõôÞ. ÊÜðïéïé ôçí èåùñïýí «ðáíÜêåéá» ôçò óùóôÞò, ôçò éóïññïðçìÝíçò äéáôñïöÞò. ÅîáéñåôéêÞ. Ç ìåóïãåéáêÞ äéáôñïöÞ êáé åêôéìþ êáé ç ãéáðùíÝæéêç åßíáé üôé êáëýôåñï óôçí äéáôñïöéêÞ áëõóßäá. Äõóôõ÷þò óôçí ÅëëÜäá äåí ôçí ôçñïýìå êáèüëïõ, ãåíéêÜ åßìáóôå ôïõ ãñÞãïñïõ öáãçôïý. Ôñþìå ðïëý êñÝáò êáé äåí õéïèåôïýìå ðáñÜ óôï åëÜ÷éóôï ôçí ðõñáìßäá ôçò ìåóïãåéáêÞò äéáôñïöÞò êáé áõôü åßíáé ëÜèïò. ÕðÜñ÷åé ìéá óõæÞôçóç ãýñù áðü ôç öéëïóïößá ôçò ãáóôñïíïìßáò, áêüìá êáé ãéá ôçí êïõëôïýñá ôïõ öáãçôïý êáé ôçí ôáõôïðïßçóç ôçò ìå ëáïýò êáé ðåñéï÷Ýò. Åßíáé Ýôóé êáé áí íáé, ðïéá åßíáé ç öéëïóïößá ôçò åëëçíéêÞò êïõæßíáò; Íáé Ýôóé åßíáé, ôï öáãçôü åßíáé ðÜíôá óõíõöáóìÝíï ìå ôçí éóôïñßá. Áí ðÜñïõìå ôçí Èåóóáëïíßêç ãéá ðáñÜäåéãìá, èá äïýìå üôé ç êïõæßíá ôçò ðÜíôá õðÞñîå ðéï óïöéóôéêÝ áðü ôçí êïõæßíá ôçò õðüëïéðçò ÅëëÜäïò. Êáé áõôü, óõìâáßíåé åîáéôßáò ôçò ðï-
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ÁõôÞ åßíáé ìéá óõíÝíôåõîç ðïõ áöïñÜ êáôÜ âÜóç ôïõò åðéâÜôåò ìéáò áåñïðïñéêÞò åôáéñåßáò, ôçò Astra Airlines. Ôé èá åß÷áôå ëïéðüí íá ôïõò ðåßôå, êýñéá ôé èá ëÝãáôå óôïõò åðéóêÝðôåò ðïõ Ýñ÷ïíôáé áðü ôï åîùôåñéêü, ßóùò ìå ìéá ðñïäéÜèåóç ü÷é ôüóï èåôéêÞ, ìéá êáé áíáìöéóâÞôçôá ç åéêüíá ôçò ÅëëÜäáò åßíáé áêüìá áñêåôÜ «ôóáëáêùìÝíç»; Ç åëëçíéêÞ ãáóôñïíïìßá äåí åßíáé üìùò. Êáé ìðïñåß íá åßíáé ðñåóâåõôÞò ìéáò Üëëçò åéêüíáò. Åãþ, åìåßò, óôá ìáãáæéÜ ìáò êáé óôçí Ìýêïíï êáé óôçí ÁèÞíá, ìüíï åíèïõóéþäåéò óõíáíôÜìå ðåëÜôåò, åíèïõóéþäåéò ãéá áõôÜ ðïõ ìðïñåß íá ðñïóöÝñåé ç ÅëëÜäá óôïí åðéóêÝðôç ôçò. Ôïõò ðñïôñÝðù íá äïêéìÜóïõí ðïëëÝò ãåýóåéò êáé õðÜñ÷ïõí ðïëëÝò ãåýóåéò óôçí åëëçíéêÞ êïõæßíá, óôçí ðïëý êáëÞ åëëçíéêÞ êïõæßíá, ðÝñá áðü ôïí ìïõóáêÜ êáé ôï óïõâëÜêé. Êëåßíïíôáò ðÝñá áðü ìéá óõíôáãÞ óáò, Ýíá ìéêñü äþñï óôïõò åðéâÜôåò ôçò Astra Airlines èá Þèåëá Ýíá «ìüôï» ðïõ óáò åêöñÜæåé äéá÷ñïíéêÜ êáé ßóùò áðïôåëåß ôçí ðáñáêáôáèÞêç ôçò ðñïóùðéêÞò óáò äéáäñïìÞò. Íá îåêéíÞóù áðü ôï äåýôåñï, íá áöÞóïõìå ôçí óõíôáãÞ óôï ôÝëïò. Ôï ìüôï ðïõ ìå åêöñÜæåé, ôï Üêïõóá áðü Ýíá ÃÜëëï óåö êáé üðùò åßíáé öõóéêü ôï Ý÷ù õéïèåôÞóåé ðëÞñùò «Ôá ìüíá áóôÝñéá óå ìéá êïõæßíá åßíáé ôá Üñéóôá õëéêÜ êáé ü÷é åìåßò». ¼óï ãéá ôçí óõíôáãÞ, ðñïôåßíù ÷ïéñéíÜ ìðñéæïëÜêéá ìå óÝóêïõëá êáé øçôÝò ðáôÜôåò.
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
Aris Tsanaklidis Aris Tsanaklidis is a significant figure in Greek cuisine well-travelled, mature, experienced, with a fund of innovative ideas developed in many different circumstances, ideas which he weds perfectly with traditional dishes to create exceptional new recipes. Mr Tsanaklidis very kindly agreed to a short interview with Astra Airlines, to share with our passengers some of his thoughts and plans, his concerns about current issues and about the Greek cuisine for which he cannot conceal his passion. Mr Tsanaklidis, I'll begin with a question I almost always use to introduce a sketch of my subject. What exactly is your relationship with cooking, apart from the obvious one? How does it relate to other life choices, to your personality, your feelings, and your everyday life? Cooking is my whole life! It's my great passion, the means and the end of my life, everything, absolutely everything to me. I started life in Thessaloniki, without means, and managed through cooking to make something of myself, to meet fascinating people, to travel the world and enjoy many important opportunities. The Mediterranean diet we hear a lot about it. Some people see it as a panacea, the one correct, truly balanced diet. Excellent. The Mediterranean diet and I also have a lot of time for Japanese food is the best you can eat, in terms of the food chain. Unfortunately, here in Greece we've lost touch with it, too many of us have turned to fast food. We eat too much meat and barely remember the importance of the Mediterranean diet pyramid, which is a mistake. There's a discussion about the philosophy of gastronomy, the culture of food and its identification with different peoples and places. Is that right? And if so, what is the philosophy behind Greek cuisine? It's true, there's always a link between food and history. If we take Thessaloniki, for example, we'll see that its cuisine has always been more sophisticated than that of the rest of Greece. This is because of the many different populations who have lived in the city, the influences of all the peoples who made up the mosaic of its population. History and cuisine go hand in hand. Look at how many Arab influences there are on Sicilian cooking, compared with cooking elsewhere in Italy. And the same influences in southern Spain, because of the presence of the Saracens there for so many centuries. You're a well-known and respected, talented chef, but working in a country which has been through terrible times in the last few years, because of the recession, which must in the nature of things affect your work. What are your future, and immediate, plans? Are they affected by the pessimism we are all experiencing? No, I'm not a pessimist, I'm an optimistic person by nature, I see the glass half full, not half empty. Look, we need to take some serious decisions, to improve, to strip our lives back to the essentials. And that means getting away from all the things which in recent years have made us lose what is really important and the important things are not a wallet full of credit cards and wearing ourselves out over things of no real value. We have the best produce in the world fruit, oil, vegetables, fish we should focus on those. It's very simple, if we try to showcase the qualitative difference of our own products. Once we understand that, and in the services sector too, and cease to confuse things, then everything will go much better.
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This is an interview to be read by the passengers of an airline, Astra Airlines. What would you like to say to them, visitors coming from abroad, perhaps with not entirely positive feelings towards Greece, given the recent damage to our country's image? There's been no damage to Greek gastronomy, though. And our cuisine could act as an ambassador, helping cultivate a different image. At our restaurants on Mykonos and in Athens, I, or we, only encounter customers who are enthusiastic about what Greece has to offer its visitors. I encourage them to sample many different dishes and flavours Greek cuisine is full of them. All the best in Greek food, which is so much more than just moussaka and souvlakia. In conclusion, in addition to the recipe you are going to give us, is there any little gift you would like to present to Astra Airline passengers? Perhaps a saying or motto which expresses your approach to life, which has underpinned your own personal career? Let's start with the second, and leave the recipe to the end. The motto that expresses me best is something I heard from a French chef, and naturally I have adopted it as my own: 'The only stars in a kitchen are the top-quality ingredients, not the chefs'. As for a recipe, I recommend pork chops with Swiss chard and roasted potatoes.
Àðèñ Öàíàêëèäèñ Âàæíûé ïðåäñòàâèòåëü ãðå÷åñêîé êóëèíàðèè Àðèñ Öàíàêëèäèñ. Ïóòåøåñòâåííèê, âûäåðæàííûé ÷åëîâåê, ïîëíûé âïå÷àòëåíèé è íîâûõ èäåé ïðèîáðåòåííûõ èç æèçíåíîãî îïûòà, èäåè "ñîåäèíÿþòñÿ" â áîëüøèíñòâå ñëó÷àåâ ñ òðàäèöèîííûìè áëþäàìè, ñîçäàþùèì èçûñêàííûå ðåöåïòû. Àðèñ Öàíàêëèäèñ äàë êðàòêîå èíòåðâüþ äëÿ ïàññàæèðîâ Astra Airlines, â êîòîðîì äåëèòñÿ íåêîòîðûìè ñâîèìè ìûñëÿìè î ñâîèõ ïëàíàõ, ðàçìûøëåíèÿìè î ïîâñåäíåâíîé æèçíè, î ãðå÷åñêîé êóëèíàðèè, êîòîðóþ ëþáèò è íå ñêðûâàåò ýòî. Ãîñïîäèí Öàíàêëèäèñ, ÿ íà÷íó ñ âîïðîñà, êîòîðûé âñåãäà èñïîëüçóþ â êà÷åñòâå âñòóïèòåëüíîé çàìåòêè, ÷òîáû îïèñàòü ìîåãî ñîáåñåäíèêà. Èòàê, êàêîâû âàøè îòíîøåíèÿ ê ïðèãîòîâëåíèþ ïèùè çà ðàìêàìè "î÷åâèäíîãî"? Îáðàùàþñü ê ôîðìèðîâàíèÿì ïðåäïî÷òåíèé â âàøåé æèçíè, ê âàøåìó õàðàêòåðó, ê âàøèì ÷óâñòâàì è â êîíå÷íîì ñ÷åòå ê âàøèì ïîâñåäíåâíûì îáñòîÿòåëüñòâàì. Ïðèãîòîâëåíèå ïèùè - ýòî âñÿ ìîÿ æèçíü, ýòî áîëüøàÿ ëþáîâü, ñðåäñòâî ê ñóùåñòâîâàíèþ, ýòî âñå ñàìîå âàæíîå äëÿ ìåíÿ âñå. Îäèí áåäíûé ðåáåíîê íà÷àë ñâîé æèçíåíûé ïóòü â ãîðîäå Ñàëîíèêè è äîáèëñÿ òîãî, ÷òîáû ñòàòü êåì-òî â ýòîé æèçíè, ïîçíàêîìèëñÿ ñ èíòåðåñíûìè ëþäüìè, ïóòåøåñòâóåò ïî âñåìó ìèðó è ïîëó÷èë ìíîãî âîçìîæíîñòåé. Ñðåäèçåìíîìîðñêàÿ êóëèíàðèÿ. Î íåé ìíîãî ãîâîðÿò. Íåêîòîðûå ðàññìàòðèâàþò åå êàê "ïàíàöåþ", êàê ñàìûé ïðàâèëüíûé è ñáàëàíñèðîâàííûé ðàöèîí ïèòàíèÿ. Îòëè÷íî. Ñðåäèçåìíîìîðñêàÿ êóëèíàðèÿ è ïî ìîåìó ìíåíèþ ÿïîíñêàÿ êóõíÿ ÿâëÿþòñÿ ëó÷øèìè â ïèùåâîé öåïè. Ê ñîæàëåíèþ, â Ãðåöèè ìû åå âîîáùå íå ïðèäåðæèâàåìñÿ, êàê ïðàâèëî ìû åäèì â ôàñò-ôóäå. Ìû óïîòðåáëÿåì ìíîãî ìÿñà è ìèíèìàëüíî èñïîëüçóåì ñðåäèçåìíîìîðñêóþ ïèðàìèäó ïèòàíèÿ è ýòî íåïðàâèëüíî. Ñóùåñòâóþò ðàçìûøëåíèÿ î ôèëîñîôèè ãàñòðîíîìèè, äàæå î êóëüòóðå åäû è èäåíòèôèêàöèè åäû ñ íàðîäàìè è ðåãèîíàìè. Òàê ÷òî, åñëè ýòî òàê, òî êàêîâà ôèëîñîôèÿ Ãðå÷åñêîé êóõíè. Äà, òàê è åñòü, åäà âñåãäà ïåðåïëåòàåòñÿ ñ èñòîðèåé. Åñëè ìû âîçüìåì íàïðèìåð Ñàëîíèêè, ìû âèäèì, ÷òî êóëèíàðèÿ çäåñü âñåãäà áûëà áîëåå ñëîæíîé, ÷åì íà âñåé òåððèòîðèè Ãðåöèè. Ýòî ïîòîìó, ÷òî ìíîãîêóëüòóðíàÿ îñíîâà ãîðîäà è âëèÿíèå ðàçíûõ íàðîäîâ ñîñòàâèëè ìîçàèêó åãî æèòåëåé ñ èõ êóëèíàðíûìè òðàäèöèÿìè. Èñòîðèÿ è êóëèíàðèÿ èäóò ðóêà îá ðóêó. Âçÿòü ê ïðèìåðó äëÿ ïîäòâåðæäåíèÿ
âûøåñêàçàííîãî, êàêîå ñèëüíîå àðàáñêîå âëèÿíèå îêàçàíî íà ñèöèëèéñêóþ êóõíþ ïî ñðàâíåíèþ ñ îñòàëüíîé Èòàëèåé, à òàêæå ñ þãîì Èñïàíèè â ñâÿçè ñ ïðîæèâàíèåì òàì íà ïðîòÿæåíèè ìíîãèõ âåêîâ ñàðàöèí. Âû ïðèçíàíûé è î÷åíü â òàëàíòëèâûé øåô-ïîâàð â ñòðàíå, íà äîëþ êîòîðîé â ïîñëåäíèå ãîäû âûïàëè «äèêèå» èñïûòàíèÿ ýêîíîìè÷åñêîãî ñïàäà, êîòîðûé çàìåòíî âëèÿåò íà âàøó ðàáîòó. Êàêîâû áóäóùèå âàøè ïëàíû, íà ýòîì ïåññèìèñòè÷åñêîì ôîíå, ÷òî âñå ìû ïåðåæèâàåì. Íåò, ÿ íå âèæó âåùè ïåññèìèñòè÷åñêè. ß ÷åëîâåê îïòèìèñò îò ïðèðîäû, ÿ õî÷ó âèäåòü ñòàêàí íàïîëîâèíó ïîëíûì, à íå íàïîëîâèíó ïóñòûì. Ìû äîëæíû ïðèíÿòü íåêîòîðûå ñåðüåçíûå ðåøåíèÿ äëÿ óëó÷øåíèÿ íàøåé æèçíè, ìû óñòðàíÿåì íåíóæíîå, çà ïîñëåäíèå íåñêîëüêî ëåò ìû ïîòåðÿëè ñóòü, à ñóòü ýòî íå ïëàñòèêîâûå êàðòû è ðàçëè÷íûå âåùè ëèøåííûå ñîäåðæàíèÿ. Ó íàñ åñòü ëó÷øèå ïðîäóêòû, ôðóêòû, ìàñëî, îâîùè, ðûáà, íàäî ñîñðåäîòî÷èòüñÿ íà íèõ. Ýòî î÷åíü ïðîñòî, åñëè ìû ïîïûòàåìñÿ ïîêàçàòü êà÷åñòâåííóþ ðàçíèöó íàøåé ïðîäóêöèè. Êîãäà ìû ïîéìåì ýòî, òàêæå â ñôåðå óñëóã è íå áóäåì ïóòàòü âåùè, âñå áóäåò ãîðàçäî ëó÷øå Ýòî èíòåðâüþ, â îñíîâíîì äëÿ ïàññàæèðîâ àâèàêîìïàíèè Astra Airlines. ×òî âû äîëæíû áûëè áû ñêàçàòü èì, ÷òî áû âû ñêàçàëè ëþäÿì ïðèåçæàþùèì èç-çà ðóáåæà, âîçìîæíî èõ íàñòðîåíèå íå î÷åíü ïîëîæèòåëüíî, âîçìîæíî, Ãðåöèÿ âûãëÿäèò ïî-ïðåæíåìó äîâîëüíî "ìÿòîé". Ãðå÷åñêàÿ ãàñòðîíîìèÿ òàê íå âûãëÿäèò. Ýòî ìîæåò áûòü íà÷àëîì äðóãîãî îáðàçà. ß, ìû â íàøèõ ìàãàçèíàõ íà îñòðîâå Ìèêîíîñ è â Àôèíàõ, âñòðå÷àåì òîëüêî âîñòîðæåííî óäîâëåòâîðåíûõ êëèåíòîâ, èõ âîñòîðã ñâÿçàí ñî âñåì òåì, ÷òî ìîæåò èì ïðåäëîæèòü Ãðåöèÿ. ß ïðèçûâàþ èõ ïîïðîáîâàòü âñå âêóñû è â ãðå÷åñêîé êóõíå èõ î÷åíü ìíîãî, î÷åíü õîðîøàÿ ãðå÷åñêàÿ êóëèíàðèÿ èäåò ãîðàçäî äàëüøå òàêèõ îáùåèçâåñòíûõ áëþä, êàê ìóñàêà è ñóâëàêè.  çàêëþ÷åíèè êðîìå îäíîãî âàøåãî ðåöåïòà,ñäåëàéòå ìàëåíüêèé ïîäàðîê äëÿ ïàññàæèðîâ Astra Airlines, õîòåëîñü áû ïîëó÷èòü îò âàñ "Äåâèç", êîòîðûé âûðàæàåò âàñ âíå âðåìåííûõ ðàìîê è âîçìîæíî, ÿâëÿåòñÿ âàøèì æèçíåíûì êðåäî, îñíîâàíûì íà âàøåì æèçíåíîì îïûòå. Ïîçâîëüòå ìíå íà÷àòü ñî âòîðîé ÷àñòè, äàâàéòå ðåöåïò ÿ äàì â êîíöå. Äåâèç, êîòîðûé âûðàæàåò ìåíÿ, ÿ ñëûøàë îò ôðàíöóçñêîãî øåô-ïîâàðà è åñòåñòâåííî, ÿ ïîëíîñòüþ åãî ïðèíèìàþ. .. "Åäèíñòâåííûå çâåçäû íà êóõíå - ýòî îòëè÷íûå ïðîäóêòû, à íå ìû ñàìè». Îòíîñèòåëüíî ðåöåïòà, ÿ ïðåäëàãàþ Tataki òóíöà, ýòî ëþáèìûé ðåöåïò ìîåãî íàñòàâíèêà, êîòîðûé áûë ÿïîíñêèì øåô-ïîâàðîì.Ñëîâî Tataki ïî-ÿïîíñêè îçíà÷àåò ìàëî ïå÷åííûé. Îáðàòèòå âíèìàíèå, ÷òî ìû ìîæåì çàìåíèòü òóíöà íà ðûáó ñêóìáðèÿ, êîòîðàÿ ÿâëÿåòñÿ íàðîäíîé ãð÷åñêîé ðûáîé è îíà î÷åíü âêóñíàÿ. Îòðåçàåì êóñîê òóíöà ðåæèì åãî êóñî÷êàìè è óäàëÿåì òåìíûå ó÷àñòêè ýòîé ðûáû, ïîòîìó ÷òî îíè äàþò ãîðüêèé ïðèâêóñ. Ïåðåìåøèâàåì â îëèâêîâîì ìàñëå ìåëêî íàðåçàííóþ ïåòðóøêó, òèìüÿí è ýñòðàãîí. Îïóñêàåì òóíöà òîëüêî ñ îäíîé ñòîðîíû â ñïåöèè, íàðåçàåì krittamo, êàïåðñîâ, ïðåäïî÷òèòåë÷íî ñ îñòðîâà Ñèðîñ, ïîìèäîðû, ëóê, èìáèðü è çåëåíûé ïàñòåðíàê. Ñìåøèâàåì ñ ìàñëîì, ïåðöåì è ëèìîííûì ñîêîì è íåìíîãî æàðèì íà ãîðÿ÷åé ñêîâîðîäå ñ íåáîëüøèì êîëè÷åñòâîì ìàñëà. Äåëàåì âèíåãðåò ñ íàðåçàííûì íà òåðêå äèêèì õðåíîì, íåìíîãî ñîè, îëèâêîâîãî ìàñëà, íåìíîãî ãåíóè, ëîæêà îñòðîé ãîð÷èöû è äîáàâëÿåì íåìíîãî òàõèíè.
Ðáñïõóßáóç/ Presentation/ ïðåçåíòàöèÿ
×ïéñéíÜ ìðñéæïëÜêéá ìå óÝóêïõëá, øçôÝò ðáôÜôåò êáé åëáéüëáäï ÕëéêÜ (ãéá 2 Üôïìá) 700 ãñ. ÷ïéñéíÜ ìðñéæïëÜêéá ëáéìïý 450 ãñ. ÷üñôá åðï÷Þò 10-15 ðáôáôïýëåò baby 1 îåñü êñåììýäé, øéëïêïììÝíï 2-3 öñÝóêá êñåììõäÜêéá, øéëïêïììÝíá 2 ê.ó. íôïìÜôá óå êýâïõò 1 ê.ó. èõìÜñé ×õìü áðü 2 ëåìüíéá 1 ½ öëéôæÜíé ÷ïíôñü áëÜôé Åëáéüëáäï Áëáôïðßðåñï ÅêôÝëåóç Ãéá ôá ìðñéæïëÜêéá: Áëáôïðéðåñþíïõìå ôá ìðñéæïëÜêéá êáé ôá ìáñéíÜñïõìå óå ëáäïëÝìïíï êáé èõìÜñé ãéá 4 þñåò. Åí óõíå÷åßá, øÞíïõìå ôá ìðñéæïëÜêéá óôï grill ãéá 12'-15'. Ãéá ôá ÷üñôá: Ñß÷íïõìå ôá ÷üñôá åðï÷Þò ãéá 3 ëåðôÜ óå âñáóôü íåñü. Ôá áðïóýñïõìå áðü ôç öùôéÜ êáé ôá óïõñþíïõìå. Óå Ýíá ôçãÜíé óïôÜñïõìå ãéá 2 ëåðôÜ 1 ê.ó. áðü ôï îåñü êñåììýäé êáé 1 ê.ó. öñÝóêá êñåììõäÜêéá êáé åí óõíå÷åßá ðñïóèÝôïõìå ôá ÷üñôá êáé ôçí íôïìÜôá. Áíáêáôåýïõìå ãéá 1 ëåðôü. Ãéá ôéò ðáôÜôåò: Ãåìßæïõìå Ýíá ôáøÜêé ìå ÷ïíôñü áëÜôé êáé «êñýâïõìå» ìÝóá ôéò ðáôÜôåò ïëüêëçñåò áöïý ðñþôá ôéò Ý÷ïõìå ðëýíåé. Ôïðïèåôïýìå ôï ôáøÜêé óôïí ðñïèåñìáóìÝíï öïýñíï êáé øÞíïõìå ôéò ðáôÜôåò ãéá 30'. ÁöÞíïõìå ôéò ðáôáôïýëåò íá êñõþóïõí, ôéò êüâïõìå óôç ìÝóç êáé ôéò óïôÜñïõìå óå Ýíá ôçãÜíé ìå ëßãï ëÜäé, ôï õðüëïéðï îåñü êñåììýäé, ôï õðüëïéðï öñÝóêï êñåììõäÜêé êáé ôï ëåìüíé.
Pork chops with Swiss chard, roasted potatoes and olive oil
Ñâèíûå îòáèâíûå ñ òðàâîé â çàâèñèìîñòè îò ñåçîíà, æàðåíûé êàðòîôåëü è îëèâêîâîå ìàñëî
Ingredients (serves 2) 700 g pork chops 450 g season greens 10-15 baby potatoes 1 onion, finely chopped 2-3 spring onions, finely chopped 2 soupspoons of tomato in cubes 1 soupspoon thyme The juice of 2 lemons 1 ½ cup coarse salt Olive oil Salt and pepper
Èíãðåäèåíòû (íà 2 ÷åëîâåêà) 700 ãð. îòáèâíûå èç øåèíîé ÷àñòè ñâèíèíû 450ã. òðàâ â çàâèñèìîñòè îò ñåçîíà 10-15 êàðòîôåëü ìàëåíêîãî ðàçìåðà 1 ëóêîâèöà, ìåëêî íàðåçàííàÿ 2-3 ñòðó÷êà çåëåííîãî ëóêà, ìåëêî íàðåçàíîãî 2 ñò. ë. ïîìèäîð, íàðåçàííûõ êóáèêàìè 1 ñò. ë. òèìüÿíà ñîê âûæàòûé èç 2 ëèìîíîâ 1 ½ ñòàêàíà êðóïíîé ñîëè îëèâêîâîå ìàñëî ñîëü è ïåðåö
Execution Pork chops: season the pork chops and marinate them in oil and lemon sauce and in the thyme for 4 hours. Thereafter grill the pork chops for 12-15 minutes. Season greens: Put the season greens in boiled water for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and strain the greens. Sauté one soupspoon of onion and 1 soupspoon of spring onions in a pan for 2 minutes and then add the greens and tomato. Stir for 1 minute. Potatoes: Fill a baking pan with coarse salt and «hide» the whole potatoes in the salt after having washed them. Put the pan in a preheated oven and roast the potatoes for 30 minutes. Let the baby potatoes cool off and then cut them in half and sauté them in a frying pan together with some oil, the rest of the onion and spring onions, as well as the lemon juice.
Ïðèãîòîâëåíèå Äëÿ îòáèâíûõ: Ïîñèïàåì ñîëüþ è ïåðåöåì îòáèâíûå è ìàðèíóåì èõ â ëèìîííîì ñîêå è òèìüÿíîì â òå÷åíèå 4 ÷àñà. Çàòåì èõ ïå÷åì íà ãðèëå 12'-15 '. Äëÿ çåëåíè: âàðèì çåëåíü (â çàâèñèìîñòè îò ñåçîíà) â òå÷åíèå 3 ìèíóò â êèïÿùåé âîäå. Ñíèìàåì ñ îãíÿ è âûëèâàåì âîäó. Íà ñêîâîðîäêå îáæàðèâàåì â òå÷åíèå 2 ìèíóò ñòàðûé ëóê (1 ñò.ë.) è çåëåíûé ëóê (1 ñò.ë.), à çàòåì äîáàâëÿåì çåëåíü è ïîìèäîðû. Ïåðåìåøèâàåì âñå â òå÷åíèå 1 ìèíóòû. Äëÿ êàðòîôåëÿ: íàïîëíÿåì ïðîòâåíü êðóïíîé ñîëüþ è «ñêðûâàåì» â íåé êàðòîôåëü, âûìûòûé çàðàíåå. Ñòàâèì ïðîòâåíü â ðàçîãðåòóþ äóõîâêó è çàïåêàåì êàðòîôåëü â òå÷åíèå 30 ìèíóò. Îñòàâëÿåì êàðòîôåëü îñòûòü, ðàçðåçàåì åãî ïîïîëàì è îáæàðèâàåì íà ñêîâîðîäå â íåáîëüøèì êîëè÷åñòâå ìàñëà, ïîñòåïåííî äîáàëÿÿ îñòàâøèéñÿ ñòàðûé ëóê, îñòàâøèéñÿ çåëåíûé ëóê è ñîê ëèìîíà.
222 betterfly magazine
Fleet of Astra airlines
Ï óôüëïò ôçò Astra airlines ôëîò Astra airlines
Airbus A320 ÊáôáóêåõÜóôñéá åôáéñåßá: Airbus Ôýðïò áåñïðëÜíïõ: A320 ÊéíçôÞñåò: 2 Turbofan Engines V2527-A5 ÌÝãéóôï âÜñïò áðïãåßùóçò: 77000 Kgs ÌÝãéóôï ýøïò ðôÞóåùí: 12100 m Ôá÷ýôçôá ôáîéäéïý (÷éë. ôçí þñá): 904 Km/Hr ÌÝãéóôï âÜñïò êáýóéìïõ: 16000 Kg ÊáôáíÜëùóç ôáîéäéïý: 1.65 gal / km ÌÞêïò: 37.57 m ¢íïéãìá ðôåñýãùí: 34.09 m ¾øïò: 11.76 m ÌÝãéóôç åìâÝëåéá: 5700 Km Áñéèìüò åðéâáôþí: 180
Manufacturer: Airbus A320 Power plants: 2 Turbofan Engines V2527-A5 Max. Take off weight: 77000 Kgs Max. Altitude: 12100 m Cruising speed: 904 Km/Hr Max. fuel load: 16000 Kg Fuel consumption: 1.65 gal/km Length: 37.57 m Wing span: 34.09 m Height: 11.76 m Max range: 5700 Km Seating capacity: 180
Ïðîèçâîäèòåëü: Airbus A320 Äâèãàòåëè: 2 Turbofan Engines V2527-A5 Ìàêñ. âçëåòíàÿ ìàññà, êã: 77000 Kgs Ìàêñ. âûñîòà ïîëåòà, ì: 12100 m Êðåéñåðñêàÿ ñêîðîñòü, êì/÷: 904 Km/Hr Ìàêñ. çàãðóçêà òîïëèâîì: 16000 Kg Ðàñõîä òîïëèâà: 1.65 gal / km Äëèíà, ì: 37.57 m Ðàçìàõ êðûëà, ì: 34.09 m Âûñîòà: 11.76 m Äàëüíîñòü ïîëåòà,êì: 5700 Km ×èñëî ìåñò: 180
BAE Systems Bae-146-300 ÊáôáóêåõÜóôñéá åôáéñåßá: BAE Systems Ôýðïò áåñïðëÜíïõ: Bae-146-300 ÊéíçôÞñåò: 4 Turbofan Engines ALF-502R ÌÝãéóôï âÜñïò áðïãåßùóçò: 45132 Kgs ÌÝãéóôï ýøïò ðôÞóåùí: 9450 m Ôá÷ýôçôá ôáîéäéïý (÷éë. ôçí þñá): 780 Km/Hr ÌÝãéóôï âÜñïò êáýóéìïõ: 9340 Kg ÊáôáíÜëùóç ôáîéäéïý: 1.35 gal/Km ÌÞêïò: 30.99 m ¢íïéãìá ðôåñýãùí: 26.34 m ¾øïò: 8.59 m ÌÝãéóôç åìâÝëåéá: 2815 Km Áñéèìüò åðéâáôþí: 112
Manufacturer: BAE Systems Bae-146-300 Power plants: 4 Turbofan Engines ALF-502R Max. Take off weight: 45132 Kgs Max. Altitude: 9450 m Cruising speed: 780 Km/Hr Max. fuel load: 9340 Kg Fuel consumption: 1.35 gal/Km Length: 30.99 m Wing span: 26.34 m Height: 8.59 m Max range: 2815 Km Seating capacity: 112
Ïðîèçâîäèòåëü: BAE Systems Bae-146-300 Äâèãàòåëè: 4 Turbofan Engines ALF-502R Ìàêñ. âçëåòíàÿ ìàññà, êã: 45132 Kgs Ìàêñ. âûñîòà ïîëåòà, ì: 9450 m Êðåéñåðñêàÿ ñêîðîñòü, êì/÷: 780 Km/Hr Ìàêñ. çàãðóçêà òîïëèâîì: 9340 Kg Ðàñõîä òîïëèâà: 1.35 gal/km Äëèíà, ì: 30.99 m Ðàçìàõ êðûëà, ì: 26.34 m Âûñîòà: 8.59 m Äàëüíîñòü ïîëåòà,êì: 2815Km ×èñëî ìåñò: 112
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