Oracle Time - Issue 74 - Summer Issue 2021 by Oracle Time Magazine

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .74

ORIS

Charting new Waters The Nautical Issue DIVING WATCHES | SURFING SHOTS | SUN-DRENCHED STYLE

ISSUE 74

5.95

ORACLE TIME #74

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent Watch: Oris Aquis Calibre 400

Around this time two years ago, I was on a yacht in Monaco. Nothing big, nothing fancy, just a well-appointed sports boat bobbing in the blue waters of the Cote d’Azure. More than once over the course of the last year and a half I’ve wished I’d never left. The call of the sea beckons. It’s that very call that’s led the way in this nautical double issue. Not that I’m particularly adventurous when it comes to the ocean. Surfing, for example, I’ve never had all that much inclination to take up. Not because it wouldn’t be fun, but as our photo feature on page 68 shows - courtesy of three absolutely fantastic surf photographers - it’s a dangerous sport. The shots are jaw-dropping though. For a more relaxed way to take to the sea, we discover four of the biggest yacht launches of the year on page 117, each with versatility at its design core. Apparently, I’m not the only person considering a new lease of life at sea. Of course, we are a watch magazine and rare is the horologist that doesn’t have some association with the sea. In fact, many a watchmaker has built their reputation on depth-defying works of water-resistant wonder, with a veritable school of shiny new diving watches surfacing each year. That’s not in one particular price range either; from accessible microbrands to the old guard of Swiss watchmaking, there have been a host of serious pieces this year to suit any price range. You can find our favourites of 2021 on page 53. One of the most successful divers of the year is, of course, the Oris Aquis Calibre 400. Not only does it come equipped with what is turning out to be a gamechanging new movement for the brand, but it’s now available in a trio of colours and a smaller, more wearable size. We talk to Oris CEO Rolf Studer about the launch on page 45. That said, not all marine watches are aimed solely at divers. Muhle Glashutte’s heritage for example is built on Marine Chronometers (page 36) and the Regatta Timer is one of the coolest complications around. If you’re looking for a deep dive on the latter, our Oracle speaking for this issue, Mat Craddock (The Watch Nerd himself), will enlighten you on page 40. The only downside is perhaps that some of these professional-level divers are a bit… much, for daily wear. Instead, if you are going away, consider one of the holiday-friendly pieces from our Style shoot on page 86, paired with a selection of resort-ready ensembles begging for a warm-weather retreat. In fact, our entire style section is dedicated the nautical, whether that’s an insight into the brands that draw inspiration from the ocean courtesy of Nick Carvell (page 96), or a selection of the most stylish sea-slanted pieces available to buy right now from Shane C. Kurup (page 107), who I’m personally very happy to have aboard the SS Oracle. Oh and if you’ve ever fancied a Breton shirt, check out page 96. You’re welcome. As ever, stay safe, stay sane and enjoy this issue. Sam Kessler, Editor

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ORACLE TIME #74

CONTRIBUTORS WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk SUB EDITOR

Nick Carvell

Style Editor-At-Large A lifelong fan of double denim (even triple on occasion), Nick started his career as the launch Social Media Editor of mrporter. com before leaving to become Associate Style Editor of British GQ, then Editor of London men’s magazine The Jackal. Today he’s a freelance menswear and grooming writer based in Bedfordshire – as well as his most important role to date, Style Editor at Large for Oracle Time.

Shane C. Kurup

Mat Craddock

Shane is a men’s style editor who has worked for a range of leading titles, including The MR PORTER Journal, Men’s Health UK, Esquire US, PORT, The Telegraph and Wallpaper*. He’s rather partial to a jazzy silk shirt, wide-leg trousers and a gin and Dubonnet (or three).

Mat Craddock, the #watchnerd himself is an amateur horologist and co-founder of the Antiquarian Horology Society’s Wristwatch Group. He’s also the man behind ‘the most interesting watch blog you’ve never heard of’ over at thewatchnerd.co.uk.

Dan Mobbs danmobbs@hotmail.com JUNIOR COPYWRITER

Michael Sonsino michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Kirsty Illingworth kirsty@opulentmedia.co.uk DIRECTOR

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk MANAGING EDITOR / CO-FOUNDER

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk

Tom Heap

Aidy Smith

is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers. He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped.

After finding out being a painter was a terrible way to make money, Tom was lucky enough to find a second passion in watches, with a keen focus on vintage Rolex. Day to day he works for Watchfinder & Co. in PR and goes through old auction catalogues on his lunch.

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7874 4615

Joe McKenzie

As a self-confessed watch fanatic, Joe’s personal interests lie in complications from Patek Philippe, F.P. Journe, Lange & Söhne and AP - his favourite being a 39mm AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with a rare Tuscan dial. He also happens to be co-founder of preowned luxury specialist Xupes.

George Parker george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7874 4616 ACCOUNT MANAGER

Themba Wirz themba@opulentmedia.co.uk 0208 057 1140 OT MAGAZINE is published monthly by Opulent Media 020 7874 4615

Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

ORACLE TIME #74

CONTENTS

OT M AG A ZIN E / ISSU E 74

18 — AFICIONADO

45 — FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT

We reveal what’s on our radar and what should be on your shopping list this month

26 — NEWS

A round-up of the latest happenings in luxury living and the best in horology

36 — WHAT IS A MASTER CHRONO?

We explore what rigours a master chrono has to endure to claim the prestigious title

40 — ASK THE ORACLE

A deep dive into the quintessential regatta timer

After making a splash with their initial Calibre 400, Oris are out to prove it’s more than a one movement wonder

“We wanted to make a movement that would do what we actually wanted in a mechanical watch: anti magnetic, long power reserve, little maintenance” Freedom of movement — p45

ORACLE TIME #74

CONTENTS

79 — STRAP IN

A strap can transform the look of a watch and we’re here to help you do just that

86 — SHORELINE SOPHISTICATION

Dream of that nautical getaway with our pick of the best sea slanted resort wear

96 — AHOY THERE!

Whether you’re on land or sea, there’s a distinct nautical fashion trend this summer

107 — SIREN CALL

Everything you need to get your wardrobe and grooming cabinet shipshape

117 — THE BOATS THAT ROCK

A choice of four yachts to pair with your new Royal Oak Jumbo (in dreams, maybe)

125 — WATCH REVIEWS We get hands on with William Wood, Bell & Ross and Fabergé models

136 — THE BEST NAUTICAL WINES 53

Considering the sheer scale of ocean, it’s not difficult to find some fabulous examples

It’s a middle finger up to Omega as Tudor’s opus comes in a couple of thousand pounds cheaper

145 — UNSUNG VINTAGE

The Ultimate Dive Watch Guide — p53

A German sleeper brand and a dazzling bespoke specialist go under the spotlight

53 — THE ULTIMATE DIVE WATCH GUIDE Whatever your budget, whatever your preference, there’s a diver for you

68 — SURF’S UP

Mindsurf breathtaking breaks in comfort thanks to three death-defying photographers

Loved by purists, it’s a hunk of mid-century cool shaped to mimic a jet engine

148 — IN FOCUS

153 – MICROBRAND CORNER What’s new in the world of the small-scale?

160 – MOVIE WATCH A deep dive with a Wes Anderson nautical classic

edited by: MICHAEL SONSINO

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

RIMAC NEVERA

Back in the days when the G-Wiz was the poster car for electric motors, no one could’ve imagined that only a few years later we’d be looking at fully electric supercars in the vein of Rimac’s newest version of the C_Two, now called the Nevera. It has a ridiculous 1,914hp and can manage 0-60mph in 1.84 seconds, before going on to a top speed of 258mph. The future of the car industry is electric and with cars like this, that’s no bad thing. Find out more at rimac-automobili.com

FRONT — aficionado

NAIM AUDIO SOLSTICE SPECIAL EDITION

British audio company Naim are making their turntable debut with the Solstice Special Edition, which is limited to 500 sets. The modern styling is chic and attractive with the plinth crafted from 47 separate layers of wood and the cartridge (record reader) base machined from a single block of aluminium. It’s equipped with Naim’s iconic Aro tonearm, Equinox movingcoil cartridge, Solstice Series Phono Stage and a bespoke accessories pack. The special edition also comes with a vinyl record curated by Naim. £16,000 limited to 500 sets from naimaudio.com

FRONT — aficionado

G-SHOCK FROGMAN COMPOSITE

The affectionately named Frogman is Casio’s G-SHOCK diver’s watch, with a water resistance rating of 200m and a range that has been expanded with two references featuring composite bands. The GWFA1000C and GWF-A1000XC are based on the analogue edition of the Frogman and use resin cores to their bands to create lightweight and durable bracelets. The C version is distinguished by its blue ion plated bezel while the XC uses carbon reinforcement on its band for even more strength. GWF-A1000C £899, GWF-A1000XC £1,449 available from g-shock.co.uk

FRONT — aficionado

RITZ-CARLTON OPENING

The Ritz-Carlton has opened its newest collection of villas, the Ritz-Carlton Maldives, Fari Islands, based on the North Malé Atoll. The 100 villas have been designed by Kerry Hill Architects as minimalist one and three bedroom residences set over the azure waters and along the white sandy beach. Not only do the buildings embrace the local landscape, they are the height of luxury with each room available with an Aris Meeha (Island Butler) to cater for the guests. For more information visit ritzcarlton.com/maldives

FRONT — aficionado

PORSCHE 911 GT3 TOURING PACKAGE

The summer months were meant for grand touring and Porsche’s 911 GT3 is readier than ever to embrace the open roads with a new Touring Package. It dispenses with the fixed rear wing for a more streamlined silhouette, although it still has plenty of grip thanks to an automatic extendable rear spoiler. The change makes for a more relaxed aesthetic, in keeping with its desire to eat up the miles and keep that next corner coming. Find out more at porsche.com

FRONT — aficionado

GARDEN RETREATS

Over the past 12 months we’ve all learned the value of having a versatile and enjoyable garden space and if you’re looking to revamp your outdoor area then Garden Retreats can help. They offer a modular and incredibly customisable outdoor building that’s a combination roof-veranda hosting space, spare bedroom and gaming zone – it can even be fitted with a home cinema set up. This is not just a shed on steroids, it’s an all in one entertainment hub ideal for the modern climate. £115,000, find out more at gardenretreats.com

FRONT — aficionado

OUT OF THE BIRDHOUSE

Redbreast’s annual limited edition lottery is becoming one of the most anticipated whiskey releases of the year with over 11,000 people entering the draw for the latest Redbreast Dream Cask Oloroso Sherry. Only 924 bottles of the Spanish-influenced Irish whiskey are available globally to members of the brand’s private group, known as the Birdhouse. The liquid is a 29-year single pot distillation with notes of dried fruits, herbs, toasted oak and an aroma of liquorice, leather and nutmeg reminiscent of Andalusian bodegas. Join the Birdhouse at redbreastwhiskey.com

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS

ART TAKES TO MAYFAIR The world has slowly been getting ready for life post-pandemic with the arts and entertainment waking up after what feels like an extended period of hibernation. Opera Gallery has been preparing to embrace the public again by launching their Mayfair Sculpture Trail 2021, an outdoor display of sculptures by Manolo

Valdés, Anthony James and Seo YoungDeok. While the sculptures are only a temporary addition to London’s streets, they join many permanent works of art that can be found around Mayfair, reminding us that even when the arts are in danger, there will always be beauty to look at. For more information on Opera Gallery visit operagallery.com

Even when the arts are in danger, there will always be beauty to look at

FRONT — world news

JACOB & CO. ACCEPT CRYPTO If you’ve been following the adventures of Elon Musk and his cryptocurrency shenanigans you’ll be aware that Tesla can’t make its mind up about whether it will accept crypto payments or not. However, one company that has said emphatically yes to crypto is Jacob & Co, the first luxury watchmaker to do so. In partnership with crypto exchange company (CEX.IO), Jacob & Co. will now let you use your Bitcoin, Ethereum and other verified coins to make purchases across the spectrum of their goods, including watches and jewellery. Watchmaking is a notoriously conservative industry so it’s little surprise that the digital charge is being led by a brand with such an exuberant style as Jacob & Co. Invest your crypto at jacobandco.com

BLANCPAIN RENEWS COMMITMENT TO OCEANS

SALON PRIVÉ PREMIERE SUPERLEGGERA Salon Privé is one of the most fabulous car shows on the international stage, but what makes it even more exciting is that it’s where many high-end automobiles make their UK debut. One such car scheduled to make it’s first appearance in England when the show begins in September is the new Arese RH95 from Italian bodywork and bespoke vehicle specialist Touring Superleggera. It’s a menacing looking vehicle in vivid green – a colour that wouldn’t be out of place on a watch in 2021. Touring Superleggera are no strangers to the concours with the Aero 3 making a splash last It’s a year. However, what makes the Arese RH95 extra menacing special is that it celebrates the company’s 95th anniversary, a fact that is reflected in the looking supercar’s name. vehicle in Find out more and book your tickets at salonpriveconcours.com vivid green

Diving is such an important part of watchmaking heritage and design that it’s little wonder that more and more brands are beginning to take an interest in the world’s oceans. One of the loudest voices in the area of aquatic conservation is Blancpain, who have recently renewed their commitment to Ocean Partnerships. As part of this endeavour, they became the official presenting partner for the United Nations World Oceans Day. The exclusive event, which took place last month, saw leading experts, celebrities and community voices come together to discuss sustainability and scientific discovery. Blancpain also supports the annual photo competition which results in some of the best underwater photography around. You can learn more about their initiatives at blancpain-oceancommitment.com

One of the loudest voices in aquatic conservation is Blancpain, who have renewed their commitment to Ocean Partnerships

ils or

FRONT — world news

WATCHES AND WONDERS ANNOUNCE PHYSICAL SHOW FOR 2022 Watches and Wonders 2021 has been the highlight of watchmaking so far this year, with dozens of releases from big name brands like Patek Philippe, Tudor and more. However, you’d be forgiven for missing out on all the hype because the event was held strictly online due to global circumstances. Fortunately, the team behind Watches and Wonders have announced that they will be returning to a large-scale physical show next year, with dates announced for 30 March to 5 April 2022. The event, which sees around 36 of the biggest watch brands from around the globe gather under the same roof, will be held in the Palexpo convention centre in Geneva. Find out more at watchesandwonders.com

ROLLS-ROYCE X BOVET TIMEPIECES The clock on the dashboard of your car is one of the most underrated timepieces that you will encounter.

AUDEMARS PIGUET COLLABORATION CELEBRATION EXHIBITION

One dashboard clock that demands your attention can be found in the new RollsRoyce Boat Tail, and the details about it have recently been announced. The clock is actually a removable wristwatch that comes in a his and hers set of two timepieces created by Bovet 1822. They have large 44mm diameters to ensure their legibility as a dashboard piece and feature a bespoke manual tourbillon movement with a 120-hour power reserve. They also bear engravings of the night sky above their owner’s birthplace, because why not. Discover more at bovet.com

Audemars Piguet have opened a new exhibit at their atelier in Le Brassus as part of the guided tour, which celebrates the history of some of the watchmaker’s most exciting collaborations and partnerships. Entitled Extraordinary Friendships, the interactive gallery includes a T-800 Terminator, recipes from Emmanuel Renault and a display of Serena Williams’ belongings – each dedicated to a notable collaboration from the brand’s past. The experience culminates with their most recent partnership, that with Marvel and the release of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Black Panther. A replica of the hero can be observed standing in a Wakandan landscape made from paper as visitors learn about how the collaboration came to be. The exhibition runs until 17 December 2021, book your tickets at museeatelier-audemarspiguet.com

Entitled Extraordinary Friendships, the interactive gallery includes a T-800 Terminator 28

FRONT — world news

MONKEY 47 AND HENRY POOL THROW GIN PARTY Gin and fine suits. Is there a better combination for a relaxing afternoon? Well, Monkey 47 and Henry Poole & Co. certainly don’t think so as they recently held an exclusive cocktails and consultation event in the Saville Row

Equi officiduciis voluptuam, quiducitia qui quuntur

store. Billed as a Father’s Day treat, discerning gents were invited to explore the history of the tailor and receive bespoke consultation, all the while sipping on refreshing, premium Schwartzwald Dry Gin from Monkey 47. Accompanying the event was a limited edition Monkey 47 Jungle print suit lining and matching silk handkerchief that add a bit of fun to any outfit. For more information visit henrypoole.com

GUESS T H E WATCH

Not all nautical watches are divers and in this case, one of the most handsome Rolex pieces – in our opinion at least – is one designed for being on the water rather than under it: the Yacht Master. It’s particularly elegant in rose gold bi-colour.

That all said, we’re not about to let our nautical issue get away without including some solid divers and, while we do have our comprehensive guide on 2021’s best divers coming up, this is a good chance to highlight a vintage option. And despite offering a decidedly different case shape than the brand is known for, this is a great one. Know what it is? Email our editor at sam.kessler@ opulentmedia.co.uk for your chance to win a free subscription for you or a friend CHECK BACK NEXT ISSUE FOR THE ANSWER

what is the

WATCH

FRONT — introducing

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FRONT — introducing

NEWS

LOUIS ERARD X ALAIN SILBERSTEIN Le Chrono Monopoussoir

The collector savvy pair of horological designers are back at it again, this time with a full trio of timepieces in their distinctively colourful twist on Bauhaus. Comprised of a triptych of different watches in the same style, our standout has to be this stunning monopusher chronograph. It’s fun, colourful and playful, stopping just short of childish. Surely the slice of wristwatch joy we all need?

INTRO DUCING

IN DETAIL •

40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance •

Sellita SW500MPCa automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve •

CHF 4,500 (approx. £3,540), limited to 100 pieces, louiserard.com

PERRELET Turbine Pilot

IN DETAIL

48mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • P-331-MH calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £4,980, perrelet.com •

Double-rotor specialist Perrelet is entering a new era with upgraded automatic movements – namely the new-generation calibre P-331-MH, which is a significant step up for the brand. To celebrate, they’ve put their highperformance, turbine-equipped number in a striking new pilot’s watch, the aptly named Turbine Pilot. Of the three performance-slanted colours, our favourite is this cool blue. It’s a serious statement piece outside and a statement of intent inside.

FRONT — introducing

IN DETAIL

44mm titanium or rose gold case with 50m water resistance • H70 Titanium manual-wind movement with 72-hour power reserve • POA, dcandaux.watch •

D.CANDAUX DC7 Genesis

If you’ve not heard of David Candaux don’t worry, you’re not alone. The independent watchmaker only has two previous timepieces under his belt, but they’re both stunners. The Genesis, his most minimal creation yet, is pared back to a beautiful symmetry inspired by the Vitruvian Man. Quality-wise it stands up to the quality Vallée de Joux (home of Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin et al) and should by rights put Candaux firmly on the map of local watchmaking tours.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Aston Martin Edition

After months of speculation the collaborative timepiece between Swiss haute horologists Girard-Perregaux and legendary British marque Aston Martin is here. While it’s more a GP than an Aston, it’s also one hell of an impressive watch with a suspended movement, magnificently finished bridges and an Aston-slanted strap. It’s just a shame nobody can get their hands on one.

IN DETAIL

44mm titanium case with 30m water resistance • GP09400-1683 calibre automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • £93,900, limited to 18 pieces, girard-perregaux.com •

FRONT — introducing

ORIS

Hölstein Edition 2021

Oris’ last Hölstein edition was in 2020 with a downright lovely version of their bronze diver. This time however they’re taking to the skies with a cool, monochromatic edition of their signature Big Crown Pointer Date. Loosely based on the pre-WWII version of the watch, it’s a touch more utilitarian than we’re used to from Oris. That said, flip it over and you still have the Oris Bear, which is reassuring.

IN DETAIL

38mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Oris calibre 403 automatic movement with 120-hour power reserve • £2,950, limited to 250 pieces, oris.ch •

ARTISANS DE GENÈVE SHADES OF BLUE The latest custom masterpiece from the specialists at Artisans de Genève is actually one of their most toned-down to-date. Rather than a skeletonised dial this particular piece unique relies on eyecatching shades of blue to do the talking, with a handsome darker shade on the dial and bezel contrasting with the lighter blue of the counters. Simple but stunning.

IN DETAIL

40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Rolex 4130 calibre automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve • POA, artisansdegeneve.com •

FRONT — masterful

IN MAY THIS YEAR, OMEGA’S GRIP WAS LOOSENED AS THE SOLE MAKER OF THE “MASTER CHRONOMETER”. A LITTLE OVER A MONTH AFTER WATCHES & WONDERS, TUDOR ENTERED THE FOLD WITH A SURPRISE RELEASE OF THEIR OWN META TESTED MASTER CHRONOMETER

WHAT IS A MASTER

CHRONOMETER? Words:

Tom Heap

FRONT — masterful

Any aspiring master chronometer must already carry the COSC chronometer rating and endure eight META tests in and out of the watch case before it can claim the title

THE MASTER CHRONOMETER TAKES IT UP A NOTCH… This ain’t your garden variety officially certified superlative chronometer, no sir. Omega and Tudor are pushing their standards to the next level with a bunch of elaborate tests with META, the Federal Institute of Metrology, based in Bern, Switzerland. For starters, the prospective movements must already carry the COSC chronometer rating before they are deemed worthy enough to undertake the series of eight META tests in and out of the watch case. The criteria for accuracy are also much stricter, with the daily tolerance being 0/+5 seconds in a 24-hour period, meaning in plain English, it should lose no time and gain no more than five seconds in any one day.

The designation itself is nothing terribly new, as the clever chaps at Omega have been at it for several years already. But it is quite nice to see a bit of competition back on the table between two very heavy hitters of watchmaking. So, what is a master chronometer exactly? For a bit of context, a ‘standard’ chronometer goes through a series of tests at COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute). The loose movement is tested in five positions and at three temperatures over 15 days at the institute, the daily error allowance for a mechanical watch to achieve the certification is -4/+6 seconds a day, which is by any stretch still pretty impressive. These tests ensure its accuracy when plunged into a variety of environments outside of the safe warmth of swiss watchmaking hands. The chronometer rating has become the benchmark of the industry since it became a la mode in the early 1970s.

FRONT — masterful

It is this rigorous testing that makes Tudor’s entrance to the arena of master chronometer such a challenge to Omega Tudor use META’s screening programme which simulates real-world stresses to ensure its accuracy when plunged into a variety of environments, while its price tag will attract considerable attention

THREE OF THESE TESTS IN PARTICULAR HAVE RECEIVED A LOT OF ATTENTION The first is under a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss, in six different positions, which is a level 250 times greater than what the current industry “magnetic resistant” watch requires. Another tests the watch at 33°C and 23°C in an attempt to replicate the temperatures on and off the wrist. Lastly the water resistance test, actually tests at 25% above their stated water resistance, something previously only carried out by brands in their own test centres. In essence META has created a screening programme which simulates a real-life environment and the stresses placed upon a modern wristwatch made in modern materials. It is this rigorous testing that makes Tudor’s entrance to the arena of master chronometer such a challenge to Omega and the price point at which they deliver their own. True, Tudor have deep pockets for this kind of thing offering theirs at £3,550, however this move displays a step down the road away from parent company Rolex; instead of being the testing ground for new models, it seems now to be setting its own course. The question is, will the master chronometer become the new bar for the £3-6k price point and who will be next to take up the mantle?

FRONT — ask the oracle

THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained Words by MAT CRADDOCK

[A deep dive into the quintessential sailing complication, the regatta timer]

It’s not often that specific sports-related functionality makes it into mechanical wristwatches. Few manufacturers have expended time or resources in marketing the 45-min totaliser as a football timer; there are no specifically marked countdown bezels to mark the passing of an NFL quarter. Why then, does a relatively niche sport like yacht racing have a veritable plethora of watches dedicated to it, and what do they actually do? Towards the end of the 19th century, championed by the then Prince of Wales, new rules were adopted by the Royal Yacht Association for racing, including a two-minute window for a ‘flying start’. This was quite a change, as boats had previously been required to line up, or be tethered to buoys, for a standing start to each race. A flying start allows a skilful skipper to reach optimal speed over a pre-determined time period and (hopefully) to hit the start line just as the race is started. Rules were amended and expanded, increasing to a five-minute period, and then a series of fiveminute segments prior to the start. It was at this time, perhaps during the 1930s after international regulations had been codified, that stop-watches were first modified to include yacht-timer or regatta

functionality. Early models appear in the pages of magazines describing their “five-minute registers, dial marking reversed to regular timer.” Gallet’s version had three five-minute segments which were “excellent for timing race starts.” These modified stop watches were standalone items, with no timekeeping apart from their countdown ability. The first wristwatch with true regatta functionality appears to be the Aquastar Régate, according to a patent from 1961 (using a modified Felsa 4000N). This was probably the first watch to use the now-familiar pattern of five circles to indicate the passing of time. The original Régate only had a five-minute countdown indicated by circles which turned from red to silver as the minutes passed. Later versions were modified to include red and blue sections, so that the full ten minutes of pre-racing could be covered. The Régate was automatic, water resistant to five atmospheres and used the now familiar skin diver-style case design. Similar watches were produced for Heuer; later watches used a Lemania movement, the 1435, which was also based on the Felsa. One thing that is often missed is the flyback action of the seconds hand, making these movements relatively complicated when compared to a standard chronograph. Even the venerable Valjoux was converted for regatta use (the 7737), and can be seen in the UFO-shaped Memosail, et al. In perhaps the strangest use of regatta functionality, Omega expanded the number of circles to seven ostensibly to assist freediver Jaques Mayol to track his breath-hold times. Modern mechanical regatta watches still follow the same basic principles of those earlier models, but often include an extended 15-minute totaliser, or additional flyback/rattrapante complications. Yachting watches continue to be released, at all price points, from Rolex to Timex, often attached to prestigious events such as the America’s Cup. However, digital versions now offer various additional features - maps, GPS, compass and even a virtual start line - far outweighing their mechanical counterparts in terms of functionality. It’s interesting to note the success of the relaunch of the Aquastar brand last year; who knows what their next release might bring?

FRONT — ask the oracle

“ One thing that is often missed is the flyback action of the seconds hand, making these movements relatively complicated when compared to a standard chronograph ”

The Frederique Constant Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown (above) brings a pared back elegance to the regatta timer, while the detail of the Omega Speedmaster (below) reflects its use by Team ETNZ in the Americas Cup

FIVE

OF THE FINEST [Frederique Constant Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown, £3,003]

About as pared-back as a regatta timer can get, Frederique Constant’s back-to-basics approach to the complication means an impeccably elegant timepiece that still gets the job done, provided an estimate at a glance is enough to keep you and your crew on track. Complete with an in-house FC calibre, it’s also a lot of watch for the money. frederiqueconstant.com

[Omega Speedmaster X-33 Regatta, £4,540]

Built specifically to accompany Team ETNZ into the Americas Cup, Omega’s digi-analogue hybrid is cased in grade 2 titanium and inspired by the colours of the legendary sailing race. It’s a limited edition from a few years back that may be getting tough to find these days, but it’s nonetheless the best of both horological worlds. omegawatches.com

FRONT — ask the oracle

The chunky cases and technical styling of the BOLDR (left), Garmin Quatix 6 (right) and Panerai Luminor (below) ensure that none of them will fade into the background

“ For when you want to make more of a splash at the boat club postrace than you expect to on the water ”

[BOLDR Supply Co. Odyssey Regatta, £1,060]

New to the rugged tool watch arsenal of BOLDR Supply Co., the Odyssey Regatta is a bit of a beast that can boast 45.5mm of stainless steel. Perhaps most importantly, that chunky case means it can survive 500m under the water, perfect for if you fancy a spot of mid-race scuba diving. Or you fall in accidentally of course, but that would never happen. boldrsupply.co

[Panerai Luminor Regatta Chrono Flyback, £14,900]

For when you want to make more of a splash at the boat club post-race than you expect to on the water, Panerai’s 47mm chunk of prestigious metal is a stunner. It’s one of the more technical looking Luminors out there and suits the oversized crown guard to a tee. There’s no missing this one – which let’s be honest is a lot of the point. panerai.com

[Garmin Quatix 6, £629]

When every second counts and a standard mechanical timepiece – no matter how well made – will cut it, enter Garmin with yet another of their incredibly specialist smart sports watches. The Quatix 6, as its place on this list might suggest, is a sailing watch through and through, complete with a regatta timer (among other features) and 100m water resistance. buy.garmin.com

FRONT — oris

WORDS: KEN KESSLER

FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT HAVING MADE A SPLASH WITH THEIR INITIAL CALIBRE 400, ORIS HAVE SINCE PROVED IT’S A LOT MORE THAN A ONE MOVEMENT WONDER 45

FRONT — oris

New movements are always a big deal. I don’t mean some new variation of a longstanding calibre or a stock piece with a shiny new custom rotor, I mean a proper, developed-from-the-ground-up movement. They’re hard to build of course, taking years of R&D and prototyping to get anywhere, but it’s the kind of horological flex that shows just what a watchmaker can do. These days though, you can buy a third-party movement and modify it without too much outcry. In fact, it’s what a lot of larger brands do on the regular. So why this emphasis on an in-house designed movement? Why do it in the first place? Well, according to Oris CEO Rolf Studer, the answer’s simple:

The Oris movement includes a five-day power reserve, a more stable rotor system, and resistance to magnetic forces of 2,250 gauss thanks to silicon throughout

“We wanted to make a movement that would do what we actually wanted in a mechanical watch: anti magnetic, long power reserve, little maintenance.” I’m sure we can all agree, that’s a solid list of ingredients for a shiny new movement and it’s one that Oris have actually managed to pull off in quite spectacular fashion. Let’s forget for a moment that the movement is laid out like a teddy bear, even if it’s the only movement I’d call cute. Specs-wise, it’s a watch lovers wishlist: a five-day power reserve thanks to twin extended mainsprings; a more stable rotor system to charge that reserve up all the better and resistance to magnetic forces of 2,250 gauss thanks to silicon aplenty throughout the movement. It’s an impressive movement for any watchmaker but for Oris, whose self-professed raison d’etre is accessible watchmaking, it’s incredible. But there’s another that’s perhaps just as important – if not moreso: versatility. A single movement is ok; a platform on which to build an entire family of movements is something else entirely. As Rolf explains, “We want to roll out Cal 400 into further collections, and we will add more complications in time. There are a lot of things in the pipeline! We just presented Cal. 400 last fall and already have brought to market two new Calibres – Cal. 401 with a small second, and Cal. 403 with the probably most iconic complication Oris ever did, small second, pointer date.” In fact, that aforementioned pointer date, the Hölstein Edition 2021, is a fantastic watch, enough that if this weren’t our nautical issue it would likely be gracing the cover. Instead, however, we opted for the most recent Cal. 400 pieces, which isn’t one I expected to see any time soon. When the Cal. 400 kicked off back in the autumn, it was housed in Oris’s most popular watch to date, the Aquis date 43.5mm. It’s a big, chunky diver with the specs – and now movement – to match. But it was, just maybe, a bit too big. For me and, apparently, for a lot of Oris wearers. Having worn it myself I’m not surprised. So now, less than a year later, Oris has released the Calibre 400 in a 41.5mm case. Yeah, if you were expecting something groundbreaking there, think again. Not that it’s unwelcome of course. As Rolf puts it:

“We wanted to make a movement that would do what we actually wanted: anti magnetic, long power reserve, little maintenance” 46

FRONT — oris

The new Aquis Cal. 400 is available in a black dial with matching ceramic bezel insert (previous page) and in an attractive green version (left), but it will set you back £2,600; a cut above what we’re used to from Oris

“We wanted to make their wish come true by reducing the size slightly and appealing even more to the consumer looking for an everyday watch that sits comfortably on the wearer’s wrist”

“The new Aquis is the result of our customer’s feedback. We wanted to make their wish come true by reducing the size slightly and appealing even more to the consumer looking for an everyday watch that sits comfortably on the wearer’s wrist.” Thankfully it’s more than shaving a couple of millimetres off the case size. If that were all they’d done, we’d have put the Hölstein on the cover, nautical issue or no. Instead, Oris has added to the collection with a couple of tasty new colours, bringing the innate versatility of the movement to its starting collection. Along with the oceanic blue, the new Aquis Cal. 400 offers both a black dial with matching ceramic bezel insert and a lovely green version. While I’d have liked to see a funkier colour to join them – after the Cotton Candy bronze models I have a bit of a sweet tooth for dials – the two newcomers bring a more rounded feel to the collection as a whole. Plus, the green, late as it is to the colour-themed party, is a stunner. If there’s one downside to the Calibre 400, it’s not on its specs sheet but its price tag. These latest Aquis models start from £2,600, a cut above what we’ve historically been used to from Oris. I don’t think you’ll get anyone arguing its not worth the increase, but it’s a whole new category. Don’t worry too much though; from the sound of it, Oris will still be using third-party movements too: “It is important to us that watch enthusiasts with different budgets can enjoy Oris watch, so we will continue to work with our long-standing suppliers of Swiss quality movements to keep our entry price point.” The Oris Calibre 400 might be the new standard, but it’s not the only standard. At least, for now. It is however the start of a new era for Oris, one sparked with the original Aquis Calibre 400, built on with this trio of downsized releases and that will undoubtedly continue in the future.

FRONT — dive in

T H E U LT I M AT E

DIVE WATCH

GUIDE OF 2021

Of all the serious, practically minded timepieces out there, dive watches are the most ubiquitous. There’s nary a watchmaker that hasn’t dabbled in the depths at some point in their history; many have built their reputations on them. More than prestige however, more even than the cool, rugged style that’s come to define them, dive watches are built for a purpose. To be considered a true, professional standard diving watch, it has to adhere to ISO 6425, courtesy of the International Organisation for Standardization. There are a few things that includes, but key among them is a diving bezel; readability at 25cm in total darkness (meaning plenty of lume); running seconds to show that it’s working and resistance to magnetism, corrosion and shocks. What might surprise you though is that ISO standards ask for a water resistance of 100m. That might seem a bit low, especially these days where 300m is the benchmark, but apparently that’s all you really need. Which means that the following watches, the strongest swimmers in the ever-expanding school of 2021 releases, are more than up to par, even at the lower end of any equipment budget. In fact, from niche microbrands offerings accessible designs to a clutch of serious prestige watchmakers, there’s a diving watch for every budget, style and depth imaginable. Here then is our Ultimate Diving Watch Guide of 2021.

FRONT — dive in

U N D E R £ ,1 0 0 0 Dipping your toes into the water for the first time? You don’t need to spend big to get yourself a serious diving partner with these entry-level divers.

BOLDR

Odyssey Bronze Pine Green THE DETAIL

If there’s one diver tapping into the current aesthetic zeitgeist, it’s this. Bronze case? Check. Green dial? Check. If it had a slimline, retro look it would blend into the crowd perfectly. Fortunately for Boldr, it’s bigger, chunkier and altogether, yes, bolder, than most of that aforementioned crowd can handle. The deep green of the dial is made a touch brighter with plenty of lume, which are 3D cast for an incredible level of light. Paired with 500m water resistance, this is a lot of watch for the money. You’d best get one of the 100 pieces available sharpish..

•

45.5mm bronze case with 500m water resistance •

SII NH35 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve •

£439, boldrsupply.co

FRONT — dive in

CHRISTOPHER WARD C60 Trident Bronze Ombré COSC

Between a COSC-certified movement, 600m water resistance and a hand-distressed dial to make each watch unique, Christopher Ward’s latest should be coasting well above the 3K mark when you compare it to similar models. The fact that it’s still at a sub-£1,000 price point, it’s easy to see why the British brand is dominating the space. The combination of bronze case and ombré dial means that the watch should age like a fine wine with far less regard for how you need to treat it. The Sellita movement inside is lacking much power, but otherwise it’s another impossible value watch from Christopher Ward.

MARLOE

Morar Deep Blue

Inspired by Loch Morar, the deepest body of water in the UK, Marloe’s seminal diving watch looks as much like a nod to Jules Verne as it does the green Scottish highlands. While it looks big and chunky, the gunmetal steel case is actually just 40mm across, making it a good deal more wearable than most diving watches. Paired with a beautiful blue dial – no prizes for guessing where the colour comes from – and shell-shaped hour markers, it’s a looker. It would be a shame if the Morar couldn’t reach the bottom of its namesake intact, so the water resistance is marked on the dial as 310m, the depth of the loch. With those kinds of numbers and an ever-reliable Japanese movement, the price makes the Morar a steal.

THE DETAIL • 42mm bronze case with 600m water resistance • Sellita SW200 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £950, limited to 500 pieces, christopherward.com

REVERIE Diver

Reverie’s take on the classic diving watch blurs the lines between a practical, utilitarian tool piece and a dress watch. Part of that is it’s slimline feel – despite 200m water resistance, it’s surprisingly svelte – but the greater part is the finishing. It’s not often you find an accessible diving watch with a guilloche dial. The wavey guilloche is lovely, especially in the oceanic blue, making for a solid, versatile summer timepiece. The movement too is engraved with waves, in tribute to the Miyota 9039’s Japanese roots – a nice nod to an important calibre and an illustration of Reverie’s attention to detail. THE DETAIL • 40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Miyota 9039 calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £350, reveriewatches.com

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The bronze case and ombré dial means that the watch should age like a fine wine THE DETAIL 40mm bronze case with 310m water resistance • Miyota 9039 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £299, Limited to 250 pieces, marloewatchcompany.com •

FRONT — dive in

BALTIC

combining the already good-looking base watch with a dual-crown, compressor-style layout that’s impossible not to love. With one crown to wind the watch, the other to operate the inner diving bezel, the Aquascape Dual Crown is lovely to use. With 200m water resistance it has respectable diving credentials and thanks to the Miyota caliber 9039 it’s as affordable as ever. If you somehow find a downside, please let us know.

Aquascaphe Dual Crown

There’s good reason Baltic’s an Instagram darling among dive watch aficionados. The handsome riff on 60s divers that is the Aquascaphe makes no secret of its vintage inspirations and ticks every box established by iconic pieces from the era. The latest takes it one step further,

THE DETAIL: •

39mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance •

Miyota caliber 9039 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve •

£472.75, baltic-watches.com

MIDO

Ocean Star GMT

It’s no overstatement to say that Mido is one of the best value brands around. Their watches have plenty of high-end touches – ceramic bezels, their own take on the incredibly solid calibre 80 and double AR-treated sapphire crystal, among other thing – combined with retro style that’s impossible not to admire.

While other Mido pieces can be a bit funkier in a retro cool kind of way, the Ocean Star GMT is all business with a classic, chunky dive watch look in an unexciting but always appealing blue. It doesn’t break boundaries but it also doesn’t break the bank and offers more bang for your buck than most of its contemporaries.

THE DETAIL: 44mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Mido calibre 80 automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • CHF1,130 (approx. £890), midowatches.com

FRONT — dive in

£ 1, 0 0 0 - £ 2 ,5 0 0 You’ve gone for a few dives, gaining confidence and are relatively sure that you won’t leave your watch on the reef. In which case, it’s time for something a touch more serious.

ALPINA

Seastrong Diver Gyre

Recycled fishing nets are fast becoming the go-to diving watch case material for the eco conscious and while Ulysse Nardin’s is only a concept, Alpina’s is here to stay. The 44mm beast of a diver that is the Seastrong Gyre however is more than just eco-friendly; it’s a downright lovely looking watch. The biggest part of that look is the smoked blue dial, not the kind of finish you often see on a utilitarian tool watch. Paired with the blacked-out case, matching two-tone strap and solid diving specs, it’s hard not to love, especially coasting just above the 1K mark.

THE DETAIL: •

44mm RECYCLED PA 6 case with 300m water resistance •

Calibre AL-525 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve •

£1,350, limited to 1,833 pieces, alpinawatches.com

DELMA

Blue Shark III Azores

If you manage to push this epic dive watch to its limit, you probably won’t be coming back. That’s because Delma’s insanely high-spec Blue Shark III Azores is water resistance to 4,000m. It looks the part too with it’s oversized 47mm case and macho styling, crown guard included. What really sets this version off however is its colouring, a combination of unusual green gradient dial and bright orange across numerals, hands and bezel diving scale. The Azores also comes in a blue and black variant, but for us this more pared-back version (and I use the phrase loosely) is the cooler of the two.

THE DETAIL: 47mm stainless steel case with 4,000m water resistance • ETA 2824 calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £2,000, delma.ch

FRONT — dive in

THE DETAIL: • 44mm stainless steel case with 1,000m water resistance • ETA 2824 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • $2,650, (Approx. £1,915), blanchetwatches.com

RALF TECH

WRV Electric Tundra

Originally released in 2012 as a 70s-inpired diver paying homage to some of the iconic underwater watches in the golden age of diving, the latest edition combines that utilitarian look with a classic sandwich dial and a new electric micro hybrid movement. Of the three versions I’m a sucker for this kind of khaki green. Between the colour and the sandwich construction, the WRV Electric Tundra has some serious militaristic vibes, complemented by impressive specs and a serious weight of metal.

BLANCHET Deep Dive

Hoping to follow in the footsteps of the host of recently revived dive watch brands that sadly died out in the 70s, Blanchet potentially has the staying power to be one of the best. Provided of course you’re after something big, chunky and at the extreme end of the affordable diving spectrum. The ‘deep’ in Deep Dive isn’t kidding. This thing can function at depths of 1,000m which is impressive for any timepiece. For a COSC-certified automatic priced at just under 2K that’s unbelievable. Throw in an eye-catching asymmetrical case and it’s obvious Blanchet has more than a name going for it.

LONGINES

Legend Heritage Diver THE DETAIL: •

42mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance •

L888 calibre automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve •

£1,750, longines.com

The HydroConquest is, by far, the more extreme of Longines’ divers in a modern, masculine kind of way. For me though – and anyone that knows my tastes won’t be surprised – it’s all about their heritage collection and, specifically, the Legend Heritage Diver. The 1960s-inspired compressor-style case is elegant while the gradiated blue dial on this particular reference is gorgeous. Behind it all is the L888 which isn’t at the silicon-equipped top end of Longines watchmaking but suits the more restrained character of this particular facet of the Swiss watchmaker’s diving heritage.

THE DETAIL: 43.9mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Electric Micro Hybrid movement • €1,700 (approx. £1,460), ralftech.com

FRONT — dive in

SEIKO

Prospex ‘Captain Willard’ Re-interpretation SPB237J1

Named after Martin Sheen’s character in Apocalypse Now, if there’s one watch you want accompanying through the jungles of Vietnam on what boils down to an assassination mission, this is it. It’s also a pretty good everyday diver if you want to avoid PTSD set to The Doors. The asymmetrical case shape that was the progenitor for the modern-day turtle makes for an incredibly distinctive watch and was originally worn in 1970 by Japanese explorer Naomi Uemura, a watch that this model is directly inspired by. It’s equipped with a great movement with a 70-hour power reserve, has the heritage of any major Swiss brand and comes in at an almost worryingly accessible price tag.

THE DETAIL: 42.7mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • 6R35 calibre automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve • £1,220, seikoboutique.co.uk

“

BALL

Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer

When you’re hundreds of metres underwater you want a watch you can rely on

When you’re hundreds of metres underwater you want to have a watch you can rely on – and there’s not much that’ll stop Ball’s latest-generation diver in its tracks. The rugged, 42mm case with 300m water resistance are just the start; the movement itself is protected by an antimagnetic mu-metal shield and Ball’s own Amortiser shock absorption system, keeping it ticking in the most adverse conditions. Looks-wise it’s a classic compressor layout, giving Ball’s distincitly modern, H3 gas tube-laden take on tool watchmaking a charming retro twist. Just be sure to keep it in a drawer at night; those signature luminescent tubes are incredibly bright.

THE DETAIL •

42mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance •

BALL RR1101-C calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £2,040, shop.ballwatch.ch

MICHEL HERBELIN Newport Diver Automatic

Combining the lovely cushion shape of the Newport Heritage – the throwback model from the French watchmaker’s flagship collection – with a unidirectional diving bezel, Michel Herbelin have created one of the more elegant diving watches out there. Specially designed for regular divers, the unidirectional bezel is made of ceramic in blue or black which, along with the 300m water resistance, makes for a surprisingly solid, professional-standard underwater watch. The fact that it’s one of the best-looking in this price range is just another feather in Michel Herbelin’s increasingly flamboyant cap. THE DETAIL: 44mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Mido calibre 80 automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • CHF1,130 (approx. £890), midowatches.com

FRONT — dive in

£ 2 ,5 0 0 - £ 5 , 0 0 0 You’re on your way to professional diver status and it’s time to branch out into more extreme, performance-oriented pieces in new materials and flashier colours.

BELL & ROSS

BR 03-92 DIVER RED BRONZE THE DETAIL:

While the latest Bell & Ross diver has all the usual necessities of a deep-dweller, such as the rotating bezel, lume-filled indexes and a solid 300m water resistance, this is nothing like your traditional diving watch. For one, it uses the cockpit instrument inspired square shape that put the Swiss watchmaker on the map. For another, the mix of golden bronze and bright red is eye-catching to say the least. While we get hands-on with the military-style utilitarian tool watch version on page 133, there’s a lot to be said about this striking number. Aviation may be their DNA, but Bell & Ross seem well at home with a sea landing, too.

•

42mm bronze case with 300m water resistance •

BR-CAL.302. calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve •

£3,800, limited to 999, bellross.com

FRONT — dive in

DOXA

SUB300 Carbon Professional

If you’re fed up of dive watches playing it safe with an avant garde choice of black or blue, Doxa should be catching your eye in more ways than one. The Swiss brand dominated the golden age of diving with a little help from Jacques Cousteau and has only gotten brighter with age. This carbon-clad edition of their famous SUB300 is a lot more modern than their usual retro-slanted pieces, combining the super light-weight material with Doxa’s ubiquitous bright orange. The material choice is probably a good thing given the impressive dimensions of the watch, which are matched by its equally impressive diving specs.

THE DETAIL: 42.5mm forged carbon case with 300m water resistance • COSCcertified ETA 2824-2 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £3,750, doxawatches.com

RADO

Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic

The culmination of Rado’s twin disciplines of cool, retro divers and cutting-edge ceramic, this skeletonised version of the lauded Captain Cook is the best of both worlds. It was our cover star last issue so believe me when I say that it’s a serious piece of watch that relies on more than nostalgia for the original vintage model. The blue and grey version is the most toned-down of them all, which isn’t saying much given the openworked dial, and for me is the coolest of the lot. It’s hardwearing, lightweight and supported by an antimagnetic movement for survivability above and below the water – 300m below, to be precise. If this is the new face of Rado, it’s a handsome one. THE DETAIL: 43mm high-tech ceramic case with 300m water resistance • R734 calibre automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • £3,530, rado.com

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The Swiss brand dominated the golden age of diving with a little help from Jacques Cousteau 61

FRONT — dive in

TUDOR

Black Bay Ceramic

The Black Bay ceramic has all the streamlined good looks that made the range a collectors’ darling, with all the trappings of a seriously high-end timepiece, including a complete ceramic case and a painfully cool blacked-out movement. Perhaps more importantly, it’s also the only other watch than Omega on this list to be awarded Master Chronometer status. You can check Tom Heap’s article on the subject on page 36 to discover why that matters, but needless to say it’s a momentous achievement. It’s also a bit of a middle finger up to Omega as Tudor’s opus comes in a good couple of thousand pounds cheaper. There’s a good reason Tudor’s one of the most in-demand watchmakers this side of Rolex. THE DETAIL: 41mm ceramic case with 200m water resistance • MT5602-1U calibre automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve • £3,550, tudorwatch.com

“

It’s a middle finger up to Omega as Tudor’s opus comes in a couple of thousand pounds cheaper

CARL F. BUCHERER Patravi Scubatec Maldives

You don’t need the clue in the name to gather that this edition of Carl F. Bucherer’s flagship diver is inspired by the warm waters and atolls of the Indian Ocean; all you need is that beautiful wave of bright blue across bezel and, more literally, the dial. The looks are backed by all the prerequisite diving watch touches, including more extreme ones like a helium escape valve and 500m water resistance. At 45mm it’s also extreme in dimensions. Between the size and colour, this isn’t the kind of watch you can miss.

THE DETAIL: 44.60mm stainless steel case with 500m water resistance • CFB 1950.1 calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £4,500, carl-f-bucherer.com

FRONT — dive in

O V E R £ 5,0 0 0 You’ve done your fair share of dives and now you’re edging into prestige territory where the watch on your wrist isn’t just for plumbing the depths but will have heads turning back on dry land, too.

THE DETAIL: •

ULYSSE NARDIN

42mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance

Diver Lemon Shark

•

Calibre UN-816 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

The shark is Ulysse Nardin’s spirit animal, so it’s not too big a surprise to see the makers of the Freak launch a toothy limited edition specifically for World Ocean Day. The bigger surprise is that it’s one of their coolest-looking divers to date. The 42mm blacked-out steel case highlighted with bright, lemon yellow in honour of the eponymous predator makes for an eye-catching, professional-level underwater watch. It’s not just the looks either. The Diver Lemon Shark’s 300m water resistance and a solid 42-hour power reserve are respectable and rugged doesn’t even come into it. It’s a bit pricier than some similarly specced watches on this list, but it makes up for it in swagger – and a cool recycled strap.

•

£6,070, limited to 300 pieces, ulysse-nardin.com

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Offshore Diver

For many collectors the Offshore Diver is a grail diving watch, all the genre-defining rebelliousness of the classic Royal Oak but in an over-the-top, performance-slanted style that moves the diving scale inside to preserve the iconic octagonal bezel that’s come to define the collection. The latest trio comes in cool grey, blue and, our favourite, the khaki green. The new piece is equipped with the Calibre 4308 automatic movement with its solid 60-hour power reserve and finished with all the stylish aplomb you’d expect from AP – including their famous Méga Tapisserie gridwork dial. It is of course a serious investment piece; dive with it at your peril. THE DETAIL: 42mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Calibre 4308 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • £23,100, audemarspiguet.com

FRONT — dive in

BLANCPAIN

Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad

One of the coolest Fifty Fathoms ever to surface – which is really saying something – was the very specialised edition created for German Bundeswehr. It was built at a time where radition was a serious concern and not just from a Cold War standpoint. Thus, the Swiss watchmaker created a version with no radioactive lume on the dial and a clear, now iconic logo to denote the fact. Now Blancpain have finally re-released a nod in the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad. While it has the vintage touch of the crossed-out nuclear logo in warning yellow and red, inside it’s pure modern Blancpain, meaning typically exceptional calibre with 100h power reserve. The only downside is that this might be a hard one to get your hands on.

THE DETAIL: 40.30mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • calibre 1151 automatic movement with 100-hour power reserve • £11,800, limited to 500 pieces, blancpain.com

OMEGA

Seamaster 300

Before there was the 300m, there was the 300, and for 2021 Omega has brought back the retro reference as its own collection. Perhaps more importantly, it’s now one of my favourite Omega models. Modelled from the 1957 original, Omega are tapping into the zeitgeist for archival divers frustratingly perfectly. Paired with throwback good looks – particularly in the classic black dial and bezel with vintage beige indexes – is the 8400 master chronometer-certified co-axial calibre, which means it can survive both 300m down and an MRI machine. Or both, however that would happen.

THE DETAIL: 41mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Omega calibre 8400 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • £5,280, omegawatches.com

FRONT — dive in

GLASHUTTE ORIGINAL SeaQ Bi-Colour

There’s always a bit of a debate over whether gold – and more specifically bi-colour – has a place in a diving watch. It’s neither one nor the other, practical nor flashy. But honestly, this is the kind of watch that puts the argument to bed. The SeaQ Bi-Colour in blue is one of the best-looking divers around. Granted, it comes with a serious premium – this is the kind of dive watch you’ll risk a shark bite rather than abandon – but you get not only a classic combo of steel, blue and yellow gold but the backing of a movement in the finest three-quarter plate traditions of German watchmaking. The only issue is the 200m water resistance which, while respectable, is perhaps lower than you’d like at this price point. But if you’re after style over substance, this is the one for you.

THE DETAIL: 39.50mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Calibre 39-11 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • £10,900, glashuette-original.com

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PANERAI LUMINOR

This is the kind of dive watch you’ll risk a shark bite rather than abandon

Marina eSteel Verde Smeraldo

New materials are kind of Panerai’s thing; so is the ocean. So, it makes sense that among high-end watchmakers they’re leading the charge when it comes to ecofriendly metallurgy. The Luminor Marine E-Steel’s famous cushion case is made from a recycled steel alloy, while the matching strap is made from recycled PET, the plastic used in fishing nets. That’s all great and nice to know but doesn’t mean too much if the watch underneath is nothing worth wearing. Fortunately, the smoked green dial here is very much worth wearing over and over again. I’m not sure I’d take it off.

THE DETAIL: •

44mm eSteel case with 300m water resistance •

P.9010 calibre automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve •

£7,600, panerai.com

ROLEX

Submariner Date

Sure, this was released last year but given Rolex’s 2021 releases didn’t exactly get us overexcited, we’re including it anyway. Plus, there’s good reason the Submariner is the luxury diving watch and it’s not all about the crown on the dial. The latest revamp brought a lot of necessary updates to the iconic Submariner Date, including a shiny new movement – the most advanced Rolex calibre around, the 3235 – and enhanced wearability, ensuring that it remains the ultimate diving watch for many. This uber-collectable green bezelled version doubly so. If you can get one on your wrist, do it. THE DETAIL: 41mm oystersteel case with 300m water resistance • Rolex 3235 automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve • £7,650, rolex.com

FRONT — surf’s up

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Words:

Sam Kessler

THE BEST SURF PHOTOGRAPHY TRANSPORTS US DIRECTLY TO SOME OF THE MOST THRILLING SURF SPOTS ALL AROUND THIS BIG BLUE PLANET AND WILL HAVE YOU MINDSURFING THE WAVE BEFORE YOU KNOW IT

FRONT — surf’s up

Whether it’s the dramatic, crashing coldness of the Atlantic or the beautifully blue warmth of the Indian Ocean, where there’s waves, there are surfers. And where there are surfers, there are surf photographers. While most of us here at Oracle Time barely know one end of a surfboard from another, we can nonetheless appreciate the sheer magnitude of the seascapes, the fleeting glimpses of that perfect curl, largely thanks to some of the magnificent photographers on Instagram. So, we decided to ask three of the best – Seb Diaz, AKA @Surfographer, Rich Richard, AKA @ sa_rips and Ryan Craig, AKA @chachflies – to show off some of their coolest shots. If anything’s going to inspire you to get out there and give it a go (or tackle some particularly dauting surf, camera in-hand) it’s these guys.

HAYDEN RICHARDS, @SA_RIPS

Hayden wanders the south Australian desert coast, revelling in its many moods. He is perhaps best known for combining landscapes and manmade objects with surf photography, capturing the astonishing drama, scale and the rugged beauty of this isolated coastline. Big desert ends in big cliffs that fall into big oceans prowled by big apex predators – and his following isn’t small either. Hayden counts the likes of the legendary Kelly Slater among his followers, which is the kind of endorsement that should have you following him, too.

FRONT — surf’s up

SEB DIAZ,

@SURFOGRAPHER For Seb, every wave is different and has its own energy, and the idea of being in the water at first light to watch the sun rise over the ocean is like a spiritual awakening. After being hit by a car and breaking his back, he fell into ocean photography, using his Nikon D500 to capture the big ocean swells on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. Post-covid, his dream is to shoot Teahupo’o in Tahiti, one of the premier wave locations on the planet and one for experienced surfers only. Follow him on Instagram to see how that turns out.

FRONT — surf’s up

RYAN CRAIG, @CHACHFILES

Flitting between California and Hawaii, Scott Baio lookalike, Ryan ‘Chachi’ Craig first picked up a Canon Rebel film camera at the age of 21 and since has honed his unique style of surf photography. Like most photographers, he gravitates towards stunning reefs and wedges, but unlike many he’s at home in the impressive surf itself, getting up close and personal with the daunting waves he immortalises. Throw in some dynamic lighting and you have a series of jaw-dropping shots well worth checking out on his Instagram.

FRONT — surf’s up

FRONT — strap in

Every good watch collection should have the right accessories, from watch boxes befitting of their stations to the best tools for a bit of amateur watchmaking. This issue though we’re delving into the most underestimated part of a watch, the element that can transform its entire look in one go: the humble strap. I say ‘humble’ but many straps are far from it. In fact, these days there are some extraordinary artisans making everything from classic calfskin numbers to rubber designed for diving. Whatever you’re after – be that traditional, sporty or statement – there’s a strap for you and, more importantly, your watch.

STRAPS DON’T LET YOUR WATCH STEAL ALL THE LIMELIGHT AS THE THING THAT TIES IT TO YOUR WRIST CAN MAKE A STATEMENT OF SIMILAR MEASURE

JEAN ROUSSEAU

Brown Alligator Watch Strap, £270

Pure Parisian craftsmanship at its finest, the maestros at Jean Rousseau know their way around a sumptuous stretch of leather. After all, if they’re good enough for Harrods, they’re probably good enough for the best watch in your collection. Case in point, this luxurious – and somehow water repellent – crocodile strap in light brown. If there’s a better match to a 60s gold dress watch – ideally with a champagne dial – we’ve not seen it. It’s pricey, but it’s worth every penny. jean-rousseau.com

FRONT — strap in

TR A DITIO N AL Your classic watch strap, the kind to match a dress watch or charming vintage number, well-made and comfortable but without detracting from the watch itself. Sumptuous calfskin, leathers exuding refinement and understated colours suited to boardrooms and galas both, these are straps for the traditionalists among you.

THE STRAP TAILOR Blue Suede Watch Strap, £97

Nothing oozes class quite like suede. The feel and look of the particular type of leather is extraordinary and, like a delicate vintage watch, something that deserves looking after. This denim blue number from British strap specialist The Watch Tailor offers a vintage buckle option to really set off your prize 50s dress piece. It’s a stunner – and you might even have some shoes to match. thestraptailor.com

ANALOGUE/ SHIFT

Laika Black Alpine Strap, $89 (approx. £64)

BULANG & SONS

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Siena Brown Retro Leather Strap, €130 (approx. £112)

Nothing says retro speed like a chunky brown leather strap

Got an old pilots watch or racing chronograph somewhere in need of a new lease of life? Nothing says retro speed like a chunky brown leather strap, particularly with the white stitching we have here. Made by Italian Artisan JPM and supplied by vintage watch retailer Bulang & Sons, it’s the perfect pairing with a vintage Daytona or, even better, original Zenith El Primero. bulangandsons.com

The guys at stateside vintage specialist Analogue/Shift know what sets a watch apart and have invested that knowledge in a collection of gorgeous horological accessories, including straps. This pared-back, supple black number is from their ever-popular Alpine collection, the name being a tribute to the first dog in space. It should be well-suited to a Speedy, in that case. shop.analogshift.com

FRONT — strap in

SPORTY Diving headfirst where leather dare not tread, these are the straps made for the high-octane or ocean depths, with practicality and comfort practiced above all else. They also happen to be pretty cool besides, whether they’re on a dive watch, tool beater or regular summer timepiece.

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TROPIC

Original Strap

Back in the 1960s, TROPIC was the go-to name in dive watch straps and now that they’re back and better than ever, they’re once again making their presence felt. Available in a series of colours, all made from the brand’s proprietary vulcanised rubber formula, they’re incredibly comfortable and, thanks to their perforations, breathable, whether over worn over a wetsuit or not. tropicstrap.com

The attention to detail behind each strap is superlative

ARTEM

Sailcloth Strap, $85 (approx. £61)

A nautical alternative to rubber, sailcloth straps are one of those things its surprisingly hard to get right. Unless of course it’s all you do. Case in point, Artem, whose satin-sheen sailcloth straps are comfortable from the first wear. The attention to detail behind each strap is superlative, especially in the case of their red contrast stitching number. Think of it like a Fifty Fathoms strap with a twist. artemstraps.com

ISOFRANE

Rubber Strap, from $109 (approx. £78)

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If you want a serious performance strap it should be in a performance colour 81

Another name from the 60s and 70s revived, if you’re looking for a reassuringly chunky piece of rubber to keep your oversized diver testing its water resistance, try an ISOFrane. They’re available in a few versions but if you want a serious performance strap it should be in a performance colour – like this bright yellow that you can see through even the darkest waters. isofrane.com

FRONT — strap in

CROWN AND BUCKLE Supreme NATO Black & Desert Strap, $34 (approx. £24)

It might be surprising to hear that not all NATO straps are created equal. While the concept’s the same across the board – a strip of canvas slipped through the lugs and under the watch – Crown & Buckle offers some of the highest quality around by using ballistic nylon. This black and desert-coloured version is also one of the more handsome NATO straps we’ve come across. crownandbuckle.com

S TAT E M E N T A watch says a lot about you but then again so does your strap – or at least, it can do. Forget restrained or practical, these are the straps where style is the only thing that matters. Subtlety? Where’s the fun in that? Restraint? Forget about it. These straps are statements, and they know it.

VISCONTI MILANO

Japanese Denim Strap, €155 (approx. £133)

Italian craftsmen know their leather and Visconti Milano has leveraged that ingrained expertise to create some of the most luxurious straps. Yet what sets the brand apart more than other artisans is their willingness to have fun with the formula. Hence, we have this funky Japanese denim piece complete with contrast green stitching, perfectly suited to helping your Daytona stand out from the crowd. viscontimilano.com

FRONT — strap in

HORUS STRAPS

Audemars Piguet Camo, £205

Colours are cool. Camo is cool. Coloured camo? That’s what Horus straps does best. Sure, they do some solid rubber options in less eye-watering combinations, but if you’re looking to make a statement (ideally attached to a Royal Oak) then look no further than this searing orange number. horusstraps.com

PAULIN STINGRAY

Leather Strap, £85

There’s nothing quite like Shagreen. The scaled pattern is instantly recognisable with its granulated surface and not exactly a subtle addition to your watch. In fact, it’s a solid way to liven up an otherwise minimal piece and this version from Glasgow-based accessible watch brand Paulin proves that you don’t need colour to stand out. paulinwatches.com

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It’s a solid way to liven up an otherwise minimal piece

COLAREB

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Wooden Strap, €49 (approx. £42)

the truly ecoconscious opt for responsibly sourced wood

Looking for a sense of ethical superiority from your strap? Then drop your vegan latte and pay attention. Forget faux leather, the truly eco-conscious opt instead for responsibly sourced wood. Well, wooden fibres to be precise but the look and feel are much the same. This cool, gridwork strap is from philosophically feel-good ColaReb combining Italian craftsmanship with innovative materials and comfy microfibre lining. colareb.it

STYLE — opener

Style 86 / Shoreline sophistication 96 / The summer’s best clothes are seaside inspired 107 / Follow the siren call and get the look

STYLE — photoshoot

It might be the Côte d’Azur, the Indonesian islands, a hideaway in Goa, or considering continuing travel restrictions it might be a long weekend in Bognor Regis, but wherever your summer takes you this year there’s no reason why you shouldn’t dress for the holiday you wish you were enjoying. So, to get you in the mood and dreaming of that nautical getaway to a far flung hideaway, here’s our pick of the best sea slanted resort wear.

Shoreline sophistication Styling: BETHANY PARKINSON

Photography: FRASER VINCENT & TOM PETTIT

STYLE — photoshoot

SHIRT Marcelo Burlon, County Of Milan, All Over Cross Short £365, farfetch.com SHORTS Anderson & Sheppard White Cotton Shorts £245 SHOES Weejuns 90s Larson Penny Navy Suede £125 Panerai Blu Mare 44mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance P.6000 calibre hand-wound movement with 72-hour power reserve £4,800, panerai.com

STYLE — photoshoot

SHIRT Turnbull and Asser Cream Silk Holiday Fit Shirt with Revere Collar, £395 SHORTS Mr Mavis Chillies, Swim £79 SHOES Grenson Wiley Handpainted Leather Sandal £190 SUNGLASSES Larson & Jennings Aviator Glasses £79 SCARF Anderson & Sheppard Red and White Lightweight Cotton Spotted Scarf £70

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Tribute to Ref. 844 43mm titanium case with 300m water resistance Calibre 5 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve £3,600, limited to 844 pieces, tagheuer.com

STYLE — photoshoot

OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Small Seconds 41mm stainless steel case with 150m water resistance OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 8916 automatic movement with 60hour power reserve £5,190, omegawatches.com

STYLE — photoshoot

SHIRT Turnbull and Asser Pale Blue Stripe Cotton Holiday Fit Shirt with Revere Collar £295 SHORTS Mr Mavis Limoncello Originals £79 SHOES Grenson Wiley Handpainted Leather Sandal £190

STYLE — photoshoot

SHIRT Turnbull and Asser Beige Stripe Cotton Holiday Fit Shirt with Revere Collar £295 SHORTS Mr Mavis Mustique swims £109 SHOES GH Bass Jetty II Boater Earth Suede £100 SUNGLASSES Larson & Jennings Wayfarer Glasses £79

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 38mm silver case with 200m water resistance MT5400 calibre automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve £3,230, tudorwatch.com

STYLE — photoshoot

SHIRT Turnbull and Asser Cream Silk Holiday Fit Shirt with Revere Collar £395 SHORTS Maison Mihara Yasuhiro, Hybrid Shorts, (price available upon request), miharayasuhiro.jp SHOES GH Bass Jetty II Boater Earth Suede £100

Grand Seiko SBGN021 40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance 9F86 calibre quartz movement £4,000, grand-seiko.com

STYLE — seaside suave

NEIGHBORHOOD One Of These Days Camp-Collar Printed Woven Shirt £525

STYLE — seaside suave

Words: NICK CARVELL

THIS SUMMER’S BEST CLOTHES ARE INSPIRED BY THE SEASIDE Ahoy there! Whether you’re on land or sea, this summer’s nautical fashion trend reflects a desire for escapism

DURING THE PANDEMIC many of us became landlocked, working from home in front of a computer with the same view out of the same windows. No wonder, then, that as we emerge into the real world once again, with endless possibilities for adventure almost close enough to taste, we are craving escapism and new experiences. And for many of us city-living land-lubbers, that opportunity appears to be manifesting itself in a resurgence of interest in nautical menswear. Look around and you’ll see nautical nods everywhere out there on the streets: a stripe here, a patch pocket there, a rubberised something-or-other somewhere else. And, no wonder: it’s a vibe that

designers are giving to us in spades (or should that be buckets?) as the sun season collections arrive on shelves, both virtual and physical. Perhaps the biggest name to commit to this is Barbour (barbour.com). The brand’s Barbour Mariner line celebrates all things coastal with items like ripstop shorts, deck shoes and half-zip anoraks, as well as substantial splashes of lifejacket orange. Perhaps a surprising move for a company usually associated with mud-spattered outdoorsy pursuits such as motoring and country rambles, but one that nonetheless feels rugged and escapist for metropolis-dwellers just in a more aquatic form. Of course, there are independent

labels that have always taken inspiration from the sea that are just being discovered by land-lubbers. French workwear brand Saint James (saintjames.com) is a prime example. Founded by Léon Legallais, this company has been making Breton striped shirts - an item originally worn by the French Navy under Napoleon and known as a Marinière in France - since 1850. Today it still produces the classic item - which should have “21 white stripes, each twice as wide as the 20 or 21 navy blue stripes” according to the French Navy’s official uniform for seamen regulations, written in 1858 - as well as all manner of modern twists on the trend. There’s even a rainbow-striped iteration for Pride month. On our side of the Channel, Londonbased North Sea Clothing (northseaclothing.com) has made a name for itself crafting timeless clothing inspired by military and nautical pieces. Run by Neil Starr and Tamara Fogle, the company came into existence thanks to a garment worn by those out at sea. “I founded the company about 15 years ago, by remaking a classic WWII issue submariner jumper, after the originals that I was selling on Portobello Road became hard to find,” says Starr. “We have slowly and organically evolved from this ‘nautical’ starting point.” “During cold Portobello winters, I used to wear a vintage Royal Navy patrol coat with my vintage submariner underneath, which garnered me the nickname ‘North Sea Neil’. Those nautical associations have stuck ever since.” Despite these chilly origins, today the brand offers a range of classic, functional gear for all seasons that’s inspired by this signature mix of the military and the nautical. Take its canvas deck shoes - available with unlined camo, navy or ecru uppers and zingy, coloured vulcanised rubber foxing around the base.

STYLE — seaside suave

Celebrating all things coastal, Barbour’s Mariner line includes the transitional Mariner Ulverston Overshirt (below) and the Alnot Casual Jacket (right), which is also available in life-jacket orange should you end up taking an unexpected dip in the sea

STYLE — seaside suave

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French workwear brand Saint James has been making Breton striped shirts since 1850, which should have “21 white stripes, each twice as wide as the 20 or 21 navy blue stripes” according to the French Navy’s official uniform regulations

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STYLE — seaside suave

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STYLE — seaside suave

In bright yellow or royal blue, Drake’s Sailing Chore Jacket (left) brings a splash of sea-based style to city life, while Saint James’s summer colours (right) work well together when huddled beside an azure pool

“Not only is it a look that has been established over many decades, but it feels meaningful and safe. Maybe that craving for nostalgia has been more present than ever in recent times”

“I didn’t set out to make a pair of shoes fit to wear on a boat, but it just seems to have happened,” says Starr. “The undulating natural rubber trim and sole makes them perfect for sea and city alike.” In a similar vein, Savile Row tailoring house Drake’s (drakes.com) has introduced a few high-profile pieces into its repertoire this season that look to adapt sea-based style to city life. Alongside a superb knitted linen Breton t-shirt, the most notable example of this is the label’s Sailing Chore Jacket. Starting with the boxy shape and patch pockets of a classic workwear jacket, the house has remixed the garment with a bright white zipper and cut it from a heavy 18oz treated cotton canvas, either in bright yellow or royal blue. “When we first got the samples through I did think to myself, ‘Perhaps we should have done a navy’,” says Michael Hill (right), creative director of Drake’s. “But these brighter colours are a bit more nautical and fun. It’s a lovely, practical piece of outerwear, but it’s also a bit of fun.” It’s worth noting that the sea has always been a presence in Hill’s life. When he’s not up in the capital, he lives

down on the coast in Devon and his grandfather was a keen sailor - in fact, the sailing chore jacket was inspired by the sort of clothes he used to wear in the seventies and eighties while doing so in Norfolk. By taking that inspiration, he has created something fresh that still feels like it will have true longevity in a man’s wardrobe. And by doing it now, he’s tapped into an insatiable appetite for menswear that looks out to sea. What does he think is behind this post-pandemic wave of interest in all things nautical? “For me, it’s the fact that it goes back to something real,” he says. “Not only is it a look that has been established over many decades, but it feels meaningful and safe. Maybe that craving for nostalgia has been more present than ever in recent times.”

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STYLE — edit

Siren call EDITED BY: SHANE C. KURUP

We can all relate to the allure of the Seven Seas, whether it’s the evocative scent of an ocean breeze, a decadent seafood feast, or taking a plunge with a satisfyingly hefty tool watch. And with oceans covering 70% of the planet, it’s little wonder that our lives – and our sense of style – have long been influenced by the deep blue. For Oracle Time’s nautical issue, we’ve curated everything you need to get your wardrobe and grooming cabinet shipshape.

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STYLE — the edit

HER NAME IS RIO

> Choosing the right swim shorts can be a bit of a minefield. Too voluminous and you run the risk of being dragged down doing laps, too close-fitting and you can reveal, well, too much. Luckily, Frescobol Carioca – a brand that typifies the outdoorsy beach lifestyle that Brazilians are envied for the world over – knows exactly how to cut its cloth, as these natty jacquard shorts attest. Pull on a pair and start making waves. £195, FRESCOBOLCARIOCA.CO.UK

LIKE CALIFORNI-A.

> We’re pretty sure the Beach Boys would approve of this knitted number from Casablanca. The Parisian brand, which uses only the finest materials, draws inspiration from some favourite sporting pastimes – in this case, hanging five. Crafted from a finely knitted cotton, this cheeky surfer tee has style and comfort in spades. So, even if you’re not much of a dab hand with a surfboard, you can at least look the part while sipping an Aperol spritz on shore. €410 (approx. £352), CASABLANCAPARIS.COM

GONE FISHIN’

> Stateside brand Tombolo has an unashamed tongue-incheek approach to the often-serious subject of fashion. Its Angler Cabana shirt is a fine case in point – because if you can’t get jazzy with your holiday wardrobe, when can you? Wear it on your next mackerel-fishing exploit (or more realistically, a staycation at Camber Sands) and you’ll turn heads for all the right reasons. We can’t guarantee it will improve your casting technique, though. $128 (approx. £92 ), TOMBOLOCOMPANY.COM

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STYLE — the edit

SUMMER SLACKS

> Spanish label Mango is one of the few high street names that manages to skilfully blend considered design and quality at a price that won’t leave your wallet looking famished. These linen trousers are an airier upgrade on wool iterations on balmy evenings and the drawstring waist delivers on comfort (and will undoubtedly be a blessing when you’ve been overindulging at the hotel buffet). Wear them with a printed shirt, deconstructed blazer and suede loafers and you’ll be all set to paint the (fishing) town red. £49.99, SHOP.MANGO.COM

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If you can’t get jazzy with your holiday wardrobe, when can you?

BRISTOL FASHION

> Few labels understand the concept of luxury better than Connolly. The brand prides itself in making garments and accessories that not only subvert classic designs in elegant fashion, but crucially, are built to endure. This Caban jacket is made from a lightweight denim with a breezy, unlined construction for added comfort. Its slightly slouchy cut gives it an eclectic cool that puts it a peg above your usual brass-button blazer. £800, CONNOLLYENGLAND.COM

HAWAII 5-O

> Once the garb of sartorially challenged tourists and of course, Tom Selleck’s Magnum P.I., the aloha shirt has recently returned to the full glare of the style limelight. This tasteful number from London-based Percival is bold enough to wear with shorts during the day, but still sedate enough to work beneath a louche blazer after sundown. A worthy suitcase essential that packs in twice the style potential. £99, PERCIVALCLO.COM

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FEET FIRST

> Boat shoes are a summer staple, whether you actually own a two-mast schooner or not. But beyond the ubiquitous blue and tan options, it can be hard to find a pair that don’t look like everyone else’s down at the dock. Goral, a Sheffield-based cordwainer that has been making footwear in time-honoured fashion since 1936, has reimagined the classic design with its thoroughly modern Hewitt shoes – ideal for the man looking to add a bit of colour to his stride. The best news? The handstitched Blake construction means they can be re-soled, so they’ll still be going the distance long after your other pairs have met Davy Jones. £340, GORAL-SHOES.CO.UK

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STYLE — grooming cabinet

Sea change

We’re often told that a diet based on seafood does wonders, so why not extend Poseidon’s goodness to your grooming regime, too? Here are the products that harness the power of the ocean to keep you looking and feeling as fresh as clear blue water.

OCEAN BOUNTY

> British grooming brand Haeckels is headquartered in the seaside town of Margate, Kent, so naturally, its ethos is informed by the salty swells. The label’s unguents and exfoliants employ novel ingredients, including dulse extract from seaweed harvested along the Kentish coast to protect your DNA against UV damage, and sea buckthorn to patch-up weathered skin and restore your mug to its former glory. There’s even a seaweed bath treatment to recreate a wholesome dip in the ocean in your tub (although you’ll find it hard to get any laps in, of course).

Seaweed and Salicylic Powder Exfoliant, £27 • Marine Facial Cleanser, £25 • Seaweed and Salicylic Powder Exfoliant, £27 • Exfoliating Seaweed Block, £18 • Seaweed Bath, £18 ALL AT MRPORTER.COM

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STYLE — grooming cabinet

MARINE SPLASH

> Orto Parisi is something of a fabled name in world of scent. Megamare, as the name implies, is formulated with aromatics from the deep, including seaweed, sea cucumber and ambergris. Unorthodox, yes, but trust us, you won’t end up smelling like an old fishing net. In fact, it’s a heady, balanced blend of salty rocks, peppery sea botanicals and warm driftwood, which recalls a walk along coastal sand dunes in summer. The cap of the bottle is even weathered by seawater and inlaid with genuine shell. This is olfactory alchemy at its most potent. £138, E-SCENTS.CO.UK

GREEN EYES

> Algae might not be the sexiest thing to suggest slapping on your face, but science-driven brand Biossance has harnessed the benefits of the green stuff to pep up your peepers. This game-changing eye cream is made from sustainable botanical ingredients, including vitamin-rich marine algae and paracress – a flowering plant from South America – alongside hydrating squalene, which triple team to nourish undereye skin and smooth out fine lines. A must for the gracefully maturing night owl. £46, CULTBEAUTY.CO.UK

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This is olfactory alchemy at its most potent

DAB HAND

Ashley Clarke, MR PORTER’s Grooming Expert, shares his pro application tips

1. Putting on the Spritz » Apply fragrance to your pulse points – this is where your skin is warmest and helps the scent circulate 2. Perky Peepers » Use your pinky finger to delicately dab eye cream on your brow bone and under the eye until absorbed 3. Salty Dog » Sea salt sprays work best on damp hair. Shake well and spritz onto your roots, scrunching with your hands

HIRSUTE WAVES

> Most surfers have an inherently cool nonchalance, and their tousled, just-out-of-the-water hair is a look that many have tried to imitate. If you can’t hang five on a daily basis for the sake of your barnet, then Sachajuan has the answer bottled up with its Ocean Mist. This spritz and go spray adds undone beachy volume and texture and features Ocean Silk Technology, which utilises marine algae to strengthen and protect your mane. So, it’s good beneath surface level, too. MRPORTER.COM, £18

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It pays to invest in a pair of shades that not only look the part but will defend your precious peepers

CLEAR PROSPECTS

> Given that you’ve only got one set of eyes, it pays to invest in a pair of shades that not only look the part but will defend your precious peepers from those nasty UV rays. These Oatman sunglasses from Serengeti nail that brief on both counts. The polarised lenses incorporate photochromatic and Spectral Control technology to respond swiftly to changing light conditions, guarding against macular degeneration and eliminating reflected glare to ensure your vision is as crystal clear as the waters you’re sailing (or in fact, if you’re just on a drive to the garden centre). As an added bonus, the frames are made from eco-nylon, which is derived from castor bean oil. That means no drilling for crude oil, which also means a happier blue planet. £165, SERENGETI-EYEWEAR.COM

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STYLE — best in class

Ahoy, sailor

Take a peek into any man’s closest, and chances are you’ll find a Breton t-shirt in some form or another. This perpetual favourite, once the uniform of Brittany fisherman and the French Navy, has made its way from the coast of France onto the backs of everyone from Venetian gondoliers to James Dean, Pablo Picasso and Andy Warhol. Here are three of the finest around.

YURI & YURI NAUTICAL SERIE SHIRT

> Savile Row might have a reputation for being rather stiff and starchy, but times are a changing. Yuri & Yuri, who moved into the fabled thoroughfare in 2018, take a rather different approach to design than their neighbours. One of the brand’s signature fabrics is Serie – a patented fabric developed in Japan – which has a cloud-soft handle and a ‘salt water-like glow’, in the brand’s words. This handmade serie nautical tee is probably the most indulgent Breton you’ll ever own. £460, YURIYURI.CO.UK

ORLEBAR BROWN HOGARTH STRIPED T-SHIRT

> Orlebar Brown was founded by Adam Brown in 2007 after being dismayed on a trip to India at the state of men’s swimwear. Although known for its premium swim shorts which are cut using Savile Row techniques, the brand also makes a mean Breton tee, too. And as with everything the brand does, it’s brought a subtle twist to a staple – in this case, swapping the usual colour combination for a rose and almond stripe, so you’ll standout handsomely in a sea of blue and white. £145, MRPORTER.COM

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This handmade serie nautical tee is probably the most indulgent Breton you’ll ever own

ARMOR-LUX ‘MARINIERE’ HERITAGE BRETON T-SHIRT

> Since 1938, Armor Luxe has been the undisputed champion of the Breton. Hailing from Quimper, Britanny, the brand has Gallic authenticity on its side, so it’s little wonder that its nautical tees have garnered cult status. The familiar navy and white stripe pattern was devised to make it easier to spot sailors who had fallen overboard, but today, it’s a design classic as iconic as a Submariner. £55, ENDCLOTHING.COM

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STYLE — kit bag

Miansai Sterling Silver Anchor Bracelet $120, MIANSAI.COM

Guanabana Maximus fish tote bag

Loewe Easter Island Fisherman Hat

£345, MATCHESFASHION.COM

£325, LOEWE.COM

Marni Fisherman sandals £540, MATCHESFASHION.COM

Victorinox Angler Swiss Army knife

Hamilton Khaki Scuba Automatic

£45, VICTORINOX.COM

£645, HAMILTON.COM

Holiday tackle Whether you’ve managed to make a break for distant shores or are sojourning closer to home, ensure you’re well equipped with kit that deftly fuses style and substance.

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FRONT — yacht life

Did you think we’d run all the way through our nautical issue without a few yachts? For shame! Where else are you going to wear that platinum-cased, green-dials Royal Oak Jumbo you just got? There’s no better place on earth – or sea, specifically – than a yacht and with ever more impressive designs surfacing this year, we’ve looked at a few of our favourites. Given that a fair few of us have dreamed of getting away from it all in the middle of the Indian Ocean over the last year, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that versatility is at the forefront of yacht design right now and that some of the world’s most important manufacturers are adapting to owners’ needs. So, without further ado, let’s take a look at four particularly versatile new designs cruising their way to a marina near you. Royal Oak unfortunately not included.

T H E BOAT S T H AT ROC K OUR QUARTET OF VERSATILE NEW YACHTS THAT ARE PERFECTLY SUITED TO LIFE ON THE OPEN WATER WITHOUT THE CABIN FEVER

AZIMUT 25M MAGELLANO If an evening of gazing out across the waves in a natural harbour, ideally with a glass of champagne in hand, is your idea of perfection, you and Azimut are on a similar wavelength. The Italian brand has created the 25m-long Magellano for just that kind of purpose. As well as a completely re-arranged cockpit to

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better make the most of the copious glass surfaces, the Magellano offers flexible spaces and furniture to get the most out of lounging aboard. To that end, it also comes with a ‘hotel mode’, which switches to a zero emissions mode while at anchor, letting you soak in the atmosphere without background engine noise or movement. Time for a top up. azimutyachts.com

FRONT — yacht life

FERRETTI YACHTS 1000 The new flagship of Ferretti Yachts more than deserves the title, measuring in at an impressive 100 feet in length and one of the most versatile vessels in its class and not entirely due to its size. In fact, while there’s plenty of space, Ferretti have taken new approaches to using it, with a host of innovative design solutions to make the most out of life on board. Inside, the Ferretti 1000 offers 40 square metres of living space, easily on par with most superyachts, and thanks to the unique flow of movement around the boat – not to mention the more-than-spacious flybridge and beach club – it feels a class above. It’s also available in two distinct flavours: contemporary or classic. Depending on your tastes, the choice completely changes the mood of the yacht. For us, it’s all about the cooler, darker hues of the contemporary palette, but to each their own.

The abundance of space is obvious inside the Ferretti 1000, which has a generous 40 square metres of living space

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It’s all about the cooler hues of the contemporary palette

ferretti-yachts.com

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SUNSEEKER PREDATOR 74 XPS If you’re looking for a yacht that, while still luxurious, offers a decidedly more performanceoriented experience, look no further than the dramatically styled, aggressive-looking XPS limited edition version of the already great Predator 74 from Poole’s own Sunseeker. The 74-foot boat can zip around at up to 40 knots and, thanks to its sleek, pillarless windows will give you a nautical driving experience that few yachts of this size can manage. Glass in fact is a defining feature of the Predator, as the entire salon is covered in a panoramic sliding roof, flooding the interiors with natural light. Combined with the XPS styling, you won’t find another yacht quite like it. sunseeker.com

The Predator 74 is as performance focused as it looks and can reach speeds upto 40 knots

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You won’t find another yacht quite like it

PRINCESS X80

With a super flybridge covering the full length of the yacht, the Princess X80 is ideally suited to warmer climes

Another home-grown yacht, the Princess X80 is sister to the brand’s imposing X95 and, while a touch smaller, is built around the same super flybridge concept, offering unprecedented usable space and the kind of al fresco living that means you likely won’t be taking the new yacht into British waters if you can help it. The various outdoor-indoor spaces can be arranged in a good number of ways, allowing an impressive level of versatility across the board, whether that be dining on the large main deck or in the sky lounge. Paired with the design expertise of Olesinski and Pininfarina, the X80 is more than just a downsized X95; it’s proof positive that Princess’ innovative approach to yacht design works – and works well. princess.co.uk

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FRONT — pilatus

Words:

A lot has changed over the past year. Working from home has become the norm, we’ve all grown a little too accustomed to video calls over face-toface interactions and even a slight cough is now cause for concern. It’s not been fun. Even the way we travel has changed. With most commercial airlines on hiatus – or at the very least, severely restricted as to where they can go – private aviation is in its ascendancy. The chance to hop between countries in safety without fear of contracting Covid 19 from a random passer-by has means that private jets have been the go-to for those for whom a conference call just won’t do. That said, not all aircraft are built equal, and there’s one particular name that’s been making their presence felt throughout the global pandemic: Pilatus. The Swiss manufacturer’s jets and turbo props have been doing more than just pulling their weight; they’ve been

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Sam Kessler

THE NEW NORMAL OF PRIVATE AVIATION AS THE WAY TRAVEL EVOLVES AND PRIVATE AVIATION CONTINUES TO SOAR IN POPULARITY, ONE NAME LEADS THE WAY THANKS TO ITS INDUSTRY-LEADING CAPABILITIES

FRONT — pilatus

The Pilatus PC-24 (above) not only offers impressive baggage space, a well-appointed cabin, and the ability to land on small runways, but after a few years of good use you can expect a return as much as 80% of the original value

going above and beyond, quite literally. Throughout the pandemic, the Pilatus PC-12 was the third most active business aircraft in Europe, with over 67,000 flights. That’s an impressive number by any stretch for a single model. Or for an entire manufacturer, for that matter. What’s more, that’s not just your average business traveller. Those flights are across VIP, Medevac, Government and Utility flights, a huge range of activities

Throughout the pandemic, the Pilatus PC-12 was the third most active business aircraft in Europe, with over 67,000 flights 122

that highlight just how versatile of an aircraft the PC-12 actually is. It’s even been dubbed the SUV of the skies for good reason. One of those reasons is its aforementioned versatility, but others are a bit easier to grasp. Like any iconic Swiss manufacturer, the aircraft are gorgeously over-engineered, enough to put any fine Swiss timepiece to shame. On one hand that’s led to industry-leading flight capabilities and a specs sheet most aircraft owners would fawn over. On the other, they’re simply some of the most comfortable aircraft around. If you’re considering private aviation, the likelihood is that you fly enough to make that last point really matter. As good as they are, Pilatus aircraft are still expensive – you need to pay for quality after all – but they might be a touch more attainable than you might think. After all, they’re one of the few manufacturers that banks are often willing to finance, for just the reasons we’ve gone over. As one UK Aviation financier says: “The PC12 is attractive to us and those that finance aircraft for a number of reasons. The aircraft is very versatile and has a global appeal which offers owners the peace of mind that they are investing in a popular type. Similarly, the low operating costs and the reliability of the engine and avionics adds to that sense of comfort. For that reason, we depreciate the aircraft slower than other aircraft when we come to assess values of our portfolio.” That’s all particularly true of the Pilatus flagship, the PC-24 Super Versatile Jet. It’s an aircraft that lives up to it’s name. Despite offering impressive baggage space and a well-appointed cabin, the PC-24 can use small runways, allowing for an unprecedented level of aerial freedom. Perhaps better than that is the fact that Pilatus aircraft are also one of the scant few that hold their value. Buy one now and in a few years of good use, you could pass it on for as much as 80% of the original value. Given the freedom and safety private aviation naturally offers, the Pilatus range might just make for an incredibly savvy investment. For more information, visit oriensaviation.com

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 41mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW510 automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve • £1,895, williamwoodwatches.com

HANDS-ON WITH THE

WILLIAM WOOD VALIANT

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I’m not often a fan of watches that lean too heavily into a particular theme. Hints here and there are all well and good, but when every single detail is drawn from the same source it can come across as twee. One watch that skirted just the right side of that line for me is the Valiant courtesy of William Wood. Odd as it was to see a tried and true dive watch inspired by firefighting – the least watery thing I can think of – the William Wood Valiant was, when released, a rather impressive watch. I don’t just mean the specs, which were fine for a diving watch, but there was visually nothing else like it. Between the various firefighting touches on the dial and the upcycled fire hose straps that have since become William Wood’s signature flourish, it was incredibly distinct from the host of other microbrand divers out there – and now with the Triumph, it’s a distinction the British brand’s doubling down on. If you liked the Valiant, I don’t see any reason you wouldn’t love the Triumph. It ups the ante laid down by William Wood’s seminal watch in pretty much every way. First off, it’s available in three colours, Oxygen, Fuel and Heat (or if we’re being more prosaic, blue, yellow and red respectively). The one we were sent is Heat, which uses the same firefighter red bezel as their earlier watches, complete with a matching second hand and its bell chime counterweight. Yet this being a chronograph, it’s joined by matching hands on the bi-compax subdials, modelled after pressure gauges. Otherwise, the dial is incredibly legible thanks to its sandwich construction and circular cut-out indexes, hammering home – along with the diving scale bezel – that this is a dive watch design. It’s rated at 100m water resistance though, so be warned: no scuba. Finishing the dial is a chequered chapter ring taken from the side of a fire truck. So far, so Valiant-with-subdials. But what really sets the Triumph apart is its chronograph pushers. Rather than anything subtle, William Wood have opted for big, blocky, muscular pushers plated with antique fire helmet brass. At first I didn’t really like the pushers, they’re just so… there. Now I can’t imagine the watch without them. And I’m pretty sure it’s not Stockholm syndrome. They have such a lovely feel and satisfying heft to them I’m still slightly enamoured. The Sellita SW510 at the other end of those pushers is solid enough, with a 48-hour power reserve. It’s still worth looking at though, if only because of how the brand has done their exhibition caseback: Break Glass in Case of Fire, around the bright-red (think fire axe) rotor. It’s probably best you don’t take that advice though. Now, I should probably talk about something I normally avoid in these kinds of reviews, if only because a lot of the time I get press samples which tend to come, shall we say, less than retail ready: unboxing. The Triumph on the other hand came in its sale packaging, which is incredibly fun. The box imitates a fire alarm, complete with the ‘break glass press here’ lettering across the front. You’ll have seen them plenty. You don’t need to break it to get in which is good as the watch box doubles as a travel case. Made from Italian leather, it contains two layers, the first of which can hold three watches – so the full set if

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you’re so inclined. Then there’s a pull cord to access a second layer underneath designed for spare straps. It’s all very onthe-nose, but it’s fun all the same. And that’s the same for the Triumph as a whole. It is a themed watch in the truest sense and every spare inch of its design has been leveraged towards illustrating William Wood’s firefighter connections. But it’s done well enough that honestly, I don’t mind. And if you have a burning love of firefighting, go for it – the Triumph pieces with all their literal bells and whistles will set you back just £1,895 each. No matter whether you judge it a triumph or not, that’s a price that’s hard to argue with. £1,895, williamwoodwatches.com

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 42mm ceramic case with 300m water resistance • BR-CAL.302 calibre automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • £3,990, limited to 99 pieces, bellross.com

HANDS-ON WITH THE

BELL & ROSS BR 03-92 MILITARY

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FRONT — watch reviews

If Bell & Ross were around in the 80s there’s a good chance they’d have penned a few songs with Huey Lewis because they’ve built a large part of their watchmaking identity around the fact that yes, it’s hip to be square. At least if you do it as well as they do. Their signature shape, taken directly from an aircraft cockpit has done Bell & Ross well over the years, adapted as it’s been beyond the aviation background it came from into a host of other instrument practicalities. Possibly the arena it’s worked best in though – and I do include the skies as one of those – is diving. That’s a bold claim I know. 99.99% of dive watches are round but then at least 80% of those are Submariner clones, so statistics aren’t really of help here. And as ways to stand out among the host of underwater watches out there, going square is a solid one. The fact that a diving bezel suits the chunky shape to a tee in a 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea porthole kind of way, is just the icing on the cake. Needless to say I’m already a fan of a Bell & Ross diver or two. I’m also a fan of their more militaristic pieces, specifically the BR-V2 92 Military Green. Combining them together seems like a no-brainer and the result is this, the BR 03-92 Military. Consider this the counterpoint to the also recent Red Bronze. Whereas that’s a flashy, colourful take on the Bell & Ross diver, this is the stripped-back, utilitarian version, and it’s much more my tempo. The dial is the typical khaki we’ve seen taking over the watch world for the past year, particularly in this sub-sect of tool pieces. It’s taken from olive drab and isn’t really worth dwelling on. It’s nice, not groundbreaking and you’ve seen it before. Perhaps what’s more impressive here is the inclusion of a full ceramic case. The 42mm case is substantial and this much ceramic makes for an impressively hardwearing, lightweight watch. Not that I intentionally whacked it on anything, obviously. The bezel too is ceramic (and one of the more satisfying to use, besides) and the combination lends a bit more of a tactile feel that takes this to the more modern side of militaristic. That’s especially true on the chunky black rubber strap we have here, which curves to fit the wrist perfectly, a great match for the case which feels larger than your usual 42mm piece for obvious reasons (corners). That said, the khaki canvas version sets off the dial nicely, even if it’s a bit less comfortable.

The fact that a diving bezel suits the shape to a tee in a 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea porthole kind of way, is the icing on the cake 131

Inside is the BR-CAL.302, a solid, ETA-based number with a not fantastic 40-hour power reserve. It does its job but for a bit less time than the benchmark these days. Still, it’s protected by 300m water resistance so the watch as a whole has some decent specs. Overall, the BR 03-92 isn’t anything groundbreaking, but it is possibly my favourite Bell & Ross. I like utilitarian and military vibes; I like Bell & Ross divers. I like squares as much as the last outdated 80s musical reference - and a full ceramic watch for under 4K is nothing to be sneezed at (quiet, Tudor). Now if only they’d give the movement an upgrade… £3,990, limited to 99 pieces, bellross.com

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 43mm black ceramic and titanium case with 50m water resistance • Calibre 6924 automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve • £22,400, faberge.com

HANDS-ON WITH THE

FABERGÉ VISIONNAIRE DTZ

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Fabergé has been frustratingly quiet in the watch world of late. Sure, fine timepieces aren’t the brand priority necessarily and they haven’t shifted over quite as much as the likes of Chopard and Bulgari but still, the Visionnaire is a seriously cool watch. It should by rights have a lot more presence than it has. Hopefully, The Visionnaire DTZ Dynamist is here to grab the spotlight it deserves. The DTZ – or dual time zone – variant of the Visionnaire formula made a splash when it was first launched in 2016. It won the GPHG for travel time watches for one and proved that the Visionnaire design was surprisingly versatile. It even graced one of our covers a few years back. Ah those were the days. Still, I like the Visionnaire DTZ for a lot more than its rosy tint. At the centre of the watch is the calibre 6924 created by Agenhor, who have a Midas touch when it comes to novel, generally circumferential methods of time display. They were behind the Singer Reimagined Track 01 after all and the DTZ strikes the perfect balance between inventiveness and practicality. Oh and they developed it in under a year. In case the unspoken incredulity in those words doesn’t come across, that’s an incredibly short time. The concept’s pretty simple, really. Around the dial you have hours and minutes mounted onto discs rather than classic hands. By pushing them further out, it allows for an aperture at the middle of the dial showing the hour of the second time zone. It’s cool, simple and easy to grasp. Not all travel watches can say the same. So, what’s actually different about the Dynamist? Well, other than the new colours, not a lot really. The 43mm case is as elegant and layered as ever, complete with a dial side rotor and a quick-change button for the second time zone at 10 o’clock. The black and yellow gold are certainly striking in an old school luxury kind of way. Given Fabergé’s history of extravagance, it fits and personally I think it works incredibly well with the distinctive modern look and concentric rings of the Visionnaire design. Some of the more obsessive detail has been removed too, streamlining the whole thing. I do however wish that Fabergé had had a bit more fun with it. This is the big comeback of the Visionnaire DTZ! When I heard it was coming I was waiting with baited breath for some serious colour to match Fabergé’s jewels. Even a bit of green – a colour that every watchmaker in the world has done this year – would have been welcome over simple black and gold.

The concept’s pretty simple, really. Around the dial you have hours and minutes mounted onto discs rather than classic hands 135

Looks aside, it sits as nicely on the wrist as ever, with strap attachments too subtle to really be called lugs. Because of that, the 43mm feels relatively small, especially as it’s made from a mix of titanium and black ceramic for hardwearing lightness. The movement’s also worth looking at, if only because there’s not much else like it mechanically. It also has a few heritage Fabergé nods, though I did need the ‘peacock-shaped component’ pointed out for me to realise what it was. Even if you miss that, it’s impressive. So no, there’s nothing new here. Still, I can’t complain. It’s a damn fine watch even if it’s not what I was hoping for and anything that puts the DTZ back into the horological conversation is worth doing. Not that I don’t have my fingers crossed that we’ll see a bit of bright blue or green on the next. Or red? Please be red. £22,400, faberge.com

CULTURE — coastal wine

DOMAINES OTT CLOS MIREILLE 2020

TENUTA BELGUARDO, MAZZEI’S MAREMMA ESTATE 2017 The Mazzei family have been producing some of Italy’s most sensational wines for decades. In the 1990s they added this incredible estate to their portfolio. Located in the heart of the Maremma between the Grosseto and Montiano hills it is just 10km from the ocean. This proximity gives a crucial microclimate impacting the 60 hectares of vines including the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc used to create this beauty. Ripe red fruits intertwine with blackberry spice, dark chocolate and a beautifully long perfumed finish. £41 from tannico.co.uk

This is without question one of the best rosé wines in existence, hailing from the renowned soils of Provence; a stone’s throw away from the Mediterranean Sea. The ancient land these vines grow upon consist of a combination of schists and clays, not limestone. This, alongside the constant sea spray, creates a rosé with so much distinct texture and character, once you try it, you’ll never turn back. Fresh and fruity with incredibly rich characteristics of peach, apricot and strawberry. This zesty exotic dream will burst across your tastebuds, leaving a finishing strike on the palate that is hard to beat. A crunchy summer fruit delight. £33 from jeroboams.co.uk

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This zesty exotic dream will burst across your tastebuds

A delicious drop in the ocean Words: Aidy Smith

Today we turn our attention to some of the incredible coastal and nautical themed wines that grace our glasses. Considering the sheer amount of ocean covering the planet, it’s not difficult to find some pretty fabulous examples, so let’s delve in!

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CULTURE — coastal wine

LE SERRE NUOVE DELL’ORNELLAIA 2018

KLEIN CONSTANTIA BLOCK 382 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 It’s not that often you get an older vintage Sauvignon Blanc as most people think they should be consumed quickly - but when done correctly, they can be absolutely breathtaking. Klein Constantia is yet another example of how South Africa is creating some game-changing wines and their Block 382 is a powerhouse of flavour and creativity. This single vineyard gem is packed full of complex layers of flavour. Everything from blackcurrant and ripe tangerines to a citrus burst that flows across your taste buds. There’s so much weight and density to this white given it has been left on the gross lees before being aged for eight months in 500 litre barrels. Truly outstanding. £49 from vivino.com

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It’s quite possible that this is one of the best Chardonnay expressions coming out of Australia

Hailing from one of the most famous estates in Tuscany, Ornellaia needs no introduction. The winery sits just a few kilometres from the Mediterranean coastline, nestled in the foothills near Bolgheri. During the summer months, the cool sea breeze caresses the vineyards and nearby olive groves, while during the winter the hills provide protection from the cold north winds. The distinct marine, alluvial and volcanic soils all have a tremendous impact on what ends up in the bottle, inspired by the beauty of their first label, Le Serre Nuove is an irresistible dark fruit dream. A massively aromatic complexity sits on the nose with blackberries, raspberry, red cherry and a spicy pink pepper. Incredible tannic structure and balance come together upon tasting with dense dark fruits smothering your palate before a crisp savory finish. Boom. £59 from Harvey Nichols

TAPANAPPA TIERS VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2020 Planted in 1979, three acres of 38-yearold Chardonnay vines are responsible for creating this beauty. They took a Californian derived clone with its roots in the mists of Mersault, all the way to Picadilly Valley in the heart of the Adelaide Hills. Today it’s quite possible that this is one of the best Chardonnay expressions coming out of Australia. The 1,600 million year-old Calc-silicate parent-rock of the soil plays a major part in its expression. Ripe and fresh nectarine and apricot burst across the palate, followed by peach and fig. Upon taking a sip you’ll notice the subtle complexity of the oak alongside a vanilla toast and brioche. Lees ageing gives it an incredible mouthfeel, honing in on what we love about quality-driven chardonnays. Complexity and texture are everything here and it is seriously impressive. £52 from vivino.com

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CULTURE — editor’s pick

MOCKINGBIRD SPIRIT

Mockingbird has been one of my favourite discoveries of the year – it’s a non-alcoholic alternative for tequila lovers. They take the botanicals and flavour nuances of tequila and pack it into this wonderful drink to give you tons of flavour. Made using blue weber agave, you get a sweet vanilla glaze, juicy agave and a slight kick of chili pepper. Good on the palate and good on the waistline!

edit: AIDY SMITH

Editor’s picks

£23 from mockingbirdspirit.com

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Good on the palate and good on the waistline

BUSHMILLS 21 YEAR OLD TRIPLE DISTILLED This sipping whiskey is a total stunner. The 21-year-old blended Irish superstar is from the oldest working distillery in Ireland. Nineteen years are spent in oloroso sherry and bourbonseason casks before an additional two years in Madeira casks, imparting so much flavour into the liquid. What you get is a silky smooth delight with lashings of depth and flavour. Fruit cake, cocoa, chocolate, hazelnut, caramel and raisins intertwine, making this something to savour.

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What you get is a silky smooth delight with lashings of depth and flavour

£160 from Master of Malt

JURA SEVEN WOOD WHISKY

LUVJUS

Low-alcohol hard seltzers have become a bit of a thing lately but LuvJus being anything but basic has decided to put an evolutionary spin on the category. This LGBTQ+ venture offers two super refreshing flavours with a kick of personality; Bloody Orange & Pomegranate and Pineapple & Mint. The best part? A portion of profits from each and every can goes right back into supporting a variety of LGBTQ+ charities. Drink well, support those in need, kinda sounds like a win/win to me. These beauties are PERFECT for picnic drinking or to wind down at the end of a long day. Only 4.8% alcohol and a fraction of the calories. Oo la la, baby.

This wonder is crafted from not just one, but seven different types of oak to create a truly unique whisky expression. First-fill exbourbon American White Oak, Vosges, Bertranges, Jupilles, Allier, Tronçais & Limousin barrels are all a part of this process. The result? Caramelised peach, candied orange and a kick of brown sugar. White or milk chocolate fan? You’ll adore this. £60 from Morrisons

£14.95 for six from luvjus.co.uk

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CULTURE — food & drink

EDITED BY MICHAEL SONSINO

RESTAURANT &BAR

↓ THE PARLOUR

NEWS

Poultry, EC2R 8AJ If you’re looking for a jazz bar set in the basement of a grand building like a prohibition era speakeasy, The Parlour has got you covered. Open from Wednesday to Friday, it offers a wide range of cocktails and drinks alongside a brand new menu inspired by Yakatori and featuring wagyu beef and shitake mushrooms, among much more. The food and drink alone are reason enough to visit but there’s also live music from five-piece bands and cabaret performances of musicals like High Society. The kind of venue you know will have a great atmosphere. thened.com/restaurants/theparlour

It hasn’t been long since the hospitality industry was finally able to re-open fully after restrictions were lifted and many bars and restaurants are finding their feet once more. So whether you’re keen to support your local spots or are visiting London for the first time in over a year there are plenty of new and exciting dining places ready for you to explore. Here’s a look at some recent and future openings that we’re keen to try out, including a few hidden gems tucked away in unexpected locations.

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CULTURE — food & drink

← APOTHECARY

36 Charlotte Road, EC2A 3PG Opening at the start of the month, Apothecary is a new tavern in Shoreditch that combines its London roots with an homage to Tokyo. The refined Japanese cuisine, which includes sashimi and a robata grill, will be accompanied by a live DJ set on Fridays and Saturdays. And if you’re wondering about the Apothecary’s ministrations, they have a wide selection of classic cocktails as well as a signature menu. If you’re looking for some late night entertainment or a venue to get your night started to right way, this bar promises a good time. apothecaryeast.co.uk

If you’re looking for late night entertainment or a venue to get your night started, this bar promises a good time ↓ ABOVE AT HIDE

85 Piccadilly, W1J 7NB HIDE might be a name familiar to some of you as it had a meteoric rise to success in 2018, but was cut down in its prime by the pandemic, like so many other restaurants. Rather than sit on their hands and wait to re-open, they decided to totally re-brand their top floor as an entirely new dining space with its own menu, now called Above at HIDE – essentially turning the establishment into three separate restaurants: Above at HIDE, HIDE and Below at HIDE. Highlights include suckling pig, scallops and homegrown wasabi. hide.co.uk

↑ THE LIGHT BAR

233 Shoreditch High Street, E1 6PJ Not all restaurants are tucked away in secluded corners as The Light Bar proves, revived for 2021 under fresh management. The establishment is built across three floors of a former Victorian power station from 1893, making for an airy and impressive dining location.

That relaxed attitude is seen in its all day openings and openness to walk-ins, making it the perfect spot after a visit to Hyde Park 142

The menu is focused on seasonal, hearty food with a range of sustainable produce collected from the head chef, Johnnie Collins’ own kitchen garden in Warwickshire. Highlights include 28 day Hereford rump steak and a revamped drinks menu, returning The Light Bar to being one of the premier watering holes on a night out since its closure in 2014. lightbarlondon.com

CULTURE — food & drink

→ NATIVE AT BROWNS

39 Brook Street, W1K 4JE If you’re looking for sustainable, luxury fish fillets with seasonal produce and natural wine pairings, you want an equally refined setting. Where better than in the heart of one of Mayfair’s flagship boutique stores; Browns. The team behind the environmentally-savvy food at the specially designed venue in Browns is the same award-winning team behind Native, who are famed for running eateries across across the capital, but now find a home in Mayfair. brownsfashion. com/uk/services/ native-at-browns

Where better than in the heart of one of Mayfair’s flagship boutique stores; Browns

← DIOR AT ALTO

400 Oxford Street, W1A 1AB We’ve already seen one restaurant inside an iconic store on this list and there’s room for another. This time we’re heading straight to Selfridges, which already has a number of dining spots within its walls, but now the rooftop Alto restaurant has re-opened for the summer in partnership with Dior. The menu is inspired by the French Riviera and features some of the personal favourite dishes of Monsieur Dior, while also paying homage to the brand’s heritage. The Dior takeover continues in the decoration taken from the summer Dioriviera collection, which includes clothes, accessories and even surf boards. selfridges.com

The menu is inspired by the French Riviera and features some of the personal favourite dishes of Monsieur Dior, while also paying homage to the brand’s heritage

→ KUDU GRILL

57 Nunhead Lane, SE15 3TR The South African restaurant Kudu Collective already has a couple of London restaurants to its name with Kudu Curiosity opening last month and another on the horizon. Each venue specialises in a different area of cultural food and gives a unique dining experience. Their newest endeavour is Kudu Grill, a braai restaurant opening on 31st July. Braai, for those unfamiliar, is a form of open fire cooking using a wood fire. Expect to find plenty of meat dishes. The tradition of braai is also a social one, which is something of a Kudu specialty as several of their venues serve as meeting places and can be hired for private functions. kuducollective.com

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CULTURE — unsung heroes

Words:

Joseph McKenzie, CEO of Xupes

UNSUNG VINTAGE HEROES:

THE OMEGA FLIGHTMASTER

Loved by the purists and looked upon with bewilderment by the rest, the Omega Flightmaster is a mid-century hunk of period cool that stands proudly tall in the recent funky retro revival

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CULTURE — unsung heroes

Omega has plenty of expertise in the air – and indeed out of the stratosphere – with the Speedmaster, but there’s one design that in this climate of funky retro revivals has cruised relatively under the radar (except of course for a spiritually similar digi-analogue number a few years back): The Flightmaster. The Flightmaster is an odd duck – in the nicest possible way. A watch few but the insiders recognise and one infrequently spotted in the wild. But on the rare occasion it is, it has to be celebrated. Introduced in 1969, it was designed with pilots in mind (made clear by the engraved DC-8 into the case back). It is loved by the purists and looked at with utter bemusement by the masses. Design wise, it really is a 44mm hunk of steel shaped to mimic the intake of a jet engine and looks every bit like something designed in the 60s or 70s. The dial is full of fun and colour (as well as function)! The seven hands, three subdials, three crowns, two pushers, and host of different colours make this a wonderfully off-beat watch. Featuring an AM/PM indicator, wearers can track the time of day in their home city. Omega also added a rocketshaped blue GMT hand for tracing the time in two separate time zones, a 12-hour chronograph, as well as a 60-minute inner elapsed-time rotating bezel. Its orange chronograph hands could be substituted to yellow as it showed up better under the infrared cockpit lights of a plane. The entire layout is color-coded. The crown at 8:00, has a black dot to match the black innerrotating bezel. At 10:00, the crown is accented with blue to indicate its control of the independent second time zone hand. Further, the pushers are either red, yellow or orange to match the particular example’s chronograph hands. Off-colour subdials make for quick identification and even the bezel has alternating marks allowing you to easily read the chronograph down to 1/5 of a second. Omega even won a government contract to provide watches for the X-33 program, King Hussein of Jordan owned a solid gold one, along with 200 other lucky individuals. In the Apollo Soyuz mission, cosmonaut Alexei Leonov wore a Flightmaster. Made from just 1969-1977, the Flightmaster really was in and out, so if you are if you’re looking for a pilot’s watch, the Flightmaster is as cool as it gets.

Shaped to mimic the intake of a jet engine, the Flightmaster’s 44mm slab of steel is instantly recognisable as a slice of 60s or 70s design, which also includes a rocket-shaped blue GMT hand for tracing the time in two separate time zones to complete the aeronautical references

Omega won a government contract to provide watches for the X-33 program, King Hussein of Jordan owned a solid gold one, along with 200 other lucky individuals 146

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

IN FOCUS

A GERMAN SLEEPER BRAND AND A BESPOKE SPECIALIST GO UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT

Mühle-Glashütte and MJJ

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BACK — in focus

MÜHLE-GLASHÜTTE Outside of Switzerland, one of the largest and most renowned centres of watchmaking in Europe is Glashütte, the historic home to dozens of Saxon watchmakers. However, it’s a region with a blighted history, one that forced many of the watchmakers to either become part of East German industry or disappear completely. For a small, family-run business like MühleGlashütte you would expect them to have a similar story ending in closure, yet against all odds they’ve kept the business running for over 150 years. And it’s quite the impressive story. The company began life as a dedicated precision tool manufacturer under Robert Mühle in 1841, specialising in measuring instruments for other watchmakers and later for the automotive industry. Robert learned his trade under the oversight a watchmaker that you might recognise, one Moritz Großmann. A few decades later though and things weren’t quite so bright. Like many companies following WWII, Mühle’s was nationalised in 1945. However, in a twist of fate, Hans Mühle (Robert’s grandson) was then hired to run the nationalised company with no one realising his connection to its history. He was then able to grow a new Mühle-branded business alongside the old one. Their specialisation remained in measurement instruments, however, due to the forced conglomeration of several companies the family began to gain experience in marine chronometers too. So much so in fact that in 1994, the company was reborn once again, this time committed to marine timekeeping. That obviously wasn’t the end of it. Cool as they are, a niche naval instrument company wouldn’t really find its way to our hallowed pages. MühleGlashütte’s decision to switch to wristwatches came in 1996, when one of the shipyards they had been working with was so impressed by their precision instruments that they asked if the company could make them some wristwatches. After a short discussion the answer was yes. From that moment on, Mühle-Glashütte has produced high quality precision watches that, due to the brand’s marine heritage, are designed for use at sea. Case in point, the S.A.R Rescue Timer, a watch made in collaboration with Germany’s Search and Rescue organisation, DGzRS. It has a 42mm stainless steel case and an extra-thick sapphire crystal to make it suitably rugged for rough seas. Uniquely, its bezel is made from rubber, to protect both it and any person being rescued from sharp edges. Another way in which it has been optimised for a

The S.A.R Rescue Timer features a rubber bezel to protect rescuers from sharp edges and has been made in collaboration with Germany’s Search and Rescue organisation

Designed to be read as easily in the night as during the day because time and tide wait for no man, nor the sun it seems nautical life is its highly legible dial – designed to be read as easily in the night as during the day because time and tide wait for no man, nor the sun it seems. The large rectangular indices are coated with Super-LumiNova and the quarter hours are denoted by over-size triangle hour markers. The date window is also accompanied by a cyclops lens. The S.A.R Rescue Timer is distinctly not a diving watch as it doesn’t have a diving bezel and it’s not classically retro like most divers, but don’t let that fool you. It puts the majority of diving watches to shame with a 1,000m water resistance that is only beaten by the most dedicated saturation divers. Afterall, it’s a tool made for people who spend their lives at sea saving lives. Mühle-Glashütte have turned their long and complicated history into a watchmaking manufacturer that creates high precision timepieces that genuinely save lives. For an industry that’s notoriously stuffy, this is one story I’d like to see a film of. Find out more at muehle-glashuette.de

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BACK — in focus

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BACK — in focus

MJJ If If you dream of the kind of traditional jewels that populate Bond Street, the elegant facets of classical craftmanship that have come to define the oldest maisons in the world, then you want to stop reading now. MJJ Exclusive is not one of those. That’s not to say that their bold, idiosyncratic creations aren’t well made; they’re exceptional in fact. But the young brand’s tagline of ‘Rebel in Luxury’ is a lot more than a solid pun; it’s a phrase that’s come to define them. Founded in 2012 by Matthew J. Jones – the eponymous Rebel in Luxury himself - the brand started out simply selling off-the-shelf timepieces to clients. Nothing particularly exciting there. But it didn’t take long for Jones to notice a shift in tastes, one towards bigger, flashier and decidedly more diamond encrusted than ever. And so, he went ahead and hired a full team of designers and craftsmen, taking the plunge backed by an extraordinary level of expertise into the heady world of bespoke jewels. The big break came when then Inter Milan captain Mauro Icardi commissioned 25 custom Rolexes for his team and from there, MJJ has been the de facto jeweller to the more rebellious glitterati. They stuck the landing nicely. It’s not hard to see why sports stars have adopted MJJ as their flagship bespoke artiste either. Their penchant for full diamond pieces on one hand, eye-catching combinations of bejewelled neon on the other make for the kinds of pieces players will try to outdo each other on. Well, what else are you going to spend your £150k a week on? It’s a relationship that’s gone both ways and over the last decade of catering to the tastes of footballers (and others, of course) they’ve developed their own unique style, one that’s culminated in the brand’s very own in-house collection. After all, if anyone knows what the ultra-wealthy are really after, it’s Jones and his team. This isn’t some diffusion range or anything like that; it’s not the long, arduous custom process start to finish, but MJJ’s jewellery collection is up there with the most exclusive around, and with a stadium length’s more style besides. Take the Spiked Cuban necklace. In essence, it’s a diamond-encrusted white gold chain. You’ve seen them before, you might even own one. MJJ’s though is different. The spiked links give it an edgier, more aggressive look, sharp and cool in equal measure like a shard of ice. It’s hand set, with no less attention to detail than a custom piece. Similar is MJJ’s now flagship Channel Ring, particularly the Baguette version. As the name suggests, the ring consists of a central channel of baguette-cut diamonds, flanked either side by

Mauro Icardi’s gift of 25 custom Rolexes (below) to his Inter Milan teammates established MJJ’s reputation as the football jeweller, while their jewellery collection (top) has earned an exclusive appeal thanks to its dazzling styling

After all, if anyone knows what the ultrawealthy are really after, it’s Jones and his team smaller, brilliant-cut stones. It has the look of a classic, stacked ring, but with internal caging (in the shape of the brand’s logo) to draw in light for the best shine possible to the gems. Bespoke being MJJ’s bread-and-butter, both pieces – and indeed the vast majority of their in-house collection – can be customised, letting clients switch around the stones and materials to their hearts’ content. Of course, custom watches are still a big part of what MJJ Exclusive does – especially among their celebrity clientele – but their jewels are the essence of their approach to craftsmanship. Traditional they are not and thank god for that. Find out more at mjjexclusive.com

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BACK — microbrand corner

MICROBRAND

CORNER From avant garde design to accessible haute horology, the latest and greatest from the creative world of microbrands

THE SPECS

• 44mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Ronda quartz movement • €585 (approx. £500), klokers.com

Klokers Klok-01 Blue Note

Blue notes are one of the characteristic elements of jazz, the notes ‘between the cracks’ of conventional pitches, so it’s not hard to imagine where the inspiration for Kloker’s latest release came from. The French brand’s unique dial layout is already about as unconventional as they come with its rotating timekeeping discs and the new watch pairs a lovely blue colouring with their first ever black PVD case. It’s not groundbreaking but the result is an almost painfully cool watch, complete with the brand’s signature quick-change strap system. The grey Alcantara is particularly lovely, though we’d opt for a couple of straps to choose from. klokers.com

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BACK — microbrand corner

Maen

Greenwich Automatic GMT

Inspired as much by Greenwich Village as the meridian, Maen’s latest New York inspired timepiece takes the elegant 38mm case of their previous Hudson model, strips off the bezel completely and adds a second time zone function. Combined with oversized, square hour markers, it’s about as streamlined a traveller’s watch as you can get. The Greenwich GMT is available in a few variations, including with a blue grid dial or eye-catching red indexes. For us though it’s all about the orange – don’t worry, it’s just the GMT hand that’s orange – for the classic jet-setter look at a distinctly non-jet-setter price. maenwatches.com

THE SPECS

• 38mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • SwissTech S24-045 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • $770 USD (approx. £550), maenwatches.com

Von Doren Runde RivaBlue

We all need a splash of colour now the sun’s out and the Runde from Von Doren has you covered. The elegant small seconds timepiece is the perfect accompaniment to bright summer prints in yellow, blue, brown or this fantastic turquoise. It’s a quartz movement so it’s a few rungs down on the horological ladder from Von Doren’s flagship Uraed timepiece, but that makes it all the more affordable, which is pretty much what you want out of a summer accessory. Let’s be honest, British weather being what it is you might not have all that long to wear it. vondoren.com THE SPECS • 39mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Ronda 1069 quartz movement • €248 (approx. £210), vondoren.com

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ZRC GF 3000 Titanium

THE SPECS

300m is a good level of water resistance, the kind needed by professional divers for some of the toughest underwater work around. In which case, God only knows what things are like 3,000m down, but the GF 3000 Titanium is one of the scant few watches that can find out. In fact, while it’s been proofed to 3,000, this beast of a watch has been tested to 5,100m. It’s pretty insane. It’s also a good deal different from the heritage French Navy watches ZRC are perhaps more famous for, with a lightweight titanium construction and cool, tricolore-inspired dial. It’s available in satin or sand finishes but either way it’s an extreme timepiece.

• 42mm titanium case with 3,000m water resistance • Sellita SW200-1 Elaborated automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • CHF 3,990 (approx. £3,150), zrc1904.ch

zrc1904.ch

Zelos

Mirage 2 Glacier The follow-up to Zelos’ ten-piece tourbillon run proves that the microbrand is upping their game considerably by forgoing the usual Sellita and Miyota movements of their contemporaries in favour of a masterpiece movement courtesy of La Joux Perret. This time they’ve opted for a streamlined but no less excellent automatic, visible front and back thanks to the openworked dial. In typical Zelos fashion, the case materials are distinctly atypical, with titanium being the baseline and joined by heavyweight tantalum and a zirconium titanium alloy that looks like a more colourful Damascus steel. There’s even a full sapphire version, though for our money the entry-level titanium is the most impressive for its distinctly accessible price tag. It’s a seriously impressive watch – and if you want to find out more about it, check out our YouTube review.

THE SPECS

• 42mm titanium case with 50m water resistance • La Joux Perret manual-wind movement with eight-day power reserve • $3,900 (approx. £2,750), zeloswatches.com

zeloswatches.com

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watches and accessories

O r a c le

RECOMMENDS WHAT’S ON OUR SHOPPING LIST AND WHY

Sólás – Starlight

ARTEM STRAPS – SAILCLOTH STRAPS

BAVARIAN WATCH – ROYAL BLUE BAVARIAN Germany has a rich watchmaking history, especially around Glashütte, but Bavaria isn’t to be discounted from the conversation either. Bavarian Watch has been singing the watchmaking praises of the region since 2018 and create a variety of stylish dials and straps for their timepieces available through Kickstarter. The 40mm stainless steel watch stands out for its large lugs, which look great on powerful wrists, without overwhelming thinner ones. We particularly like the Royal Bavarian Blue piece combined with Summer Sunset strap. €160 (approx. £135), for more information visit kick.bavarian-watch.com

It’s an old adage that if you can’t find the thing you’re looking for, build it yourself. This is the philosophy that led to the creation of Artem Straps when the founders were thwarted in their search for high quality sailcloth watch straps. Sailcloth, whether it’s made from genuine cloth or synthetic and leather alternatives, can be stiff and uncomfortable – making Artem’s focus for their strap’s flexibility and comfort, a mission they have more than succeeded at. Artem Sailcloth Watch strap $85 (approx. £60) from artemstraps.com

CuleM – Portal GMT Gold

Everyone needs to play a part in protecting the environment and the watchmaker CuleM has already embraced their role – planting over 15,000 trees in Madagascar with a pledge to plant 100 more for every timepiece they sell. Their watches are designed to capture their global outlook, with all of them being GMT timers depicting a vision of the world. This version is presented in 18k gold plating. On the reverse side is a list of 24 time zones, which is both pretty and a handy reference guide for setting the GMT hand. CuleM Portal GMT Gold £1,195 available from culemwatches.com

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There are many reasons microbrands are created and the story behind Sólás is a classic story of creativity. This is because the Starlight watch is the first microbrand timepiece to feature an accessible aventurine dial with a microrotor movement. The aventurine glass provides an elegant backdrop for the dress watch display, made unique by the sole use of Irish (Gaelige) text on the watch, as exemplified by its dial declaration of ‘deartha in Éirinn’ or ‘designed in Ireland’. Customers can choose from date/no-date and silver/ rose-gold dial variants at the Sólás store now. Pre-order €449, full price €549 (approx. £380/£470) available from solaswatches.com

CARAPAZ – WATCH CASES The name Carapaz comes from the word carapace, meaning a hard outer shell – which is what the Swiss leather goods company specialise in, creating cases to protect your phone and tablet. Based in Neuchâtel, the home of many top watchmakers, it was inevitable that they would develop skills in creating high quality watch cases. The rail technology and stands make them ideal for display or travel and you can choose from cases that hold between one and eight timepieces in variety of colours of high quality soft leather. Three-Watch Case £240, available at carapaz.com and thewatchspy.net

style

Ross Oliver – Bridge-bit Loafers Ross Oliver is a relatively fresh name to the arena of luxury footwear, bringing a new vision to the UK scene. Their high quality Cactus leather loafers and boots are both stylish and sustainable, crafted by specialist artisans in the UK. The Bridge-bit Loafers in particular took over a year to develop and feature a handmade brass buckle inspired by the Clifton suspension bridge. They were also finalists at the Draper awards in two categories, Best New Footwear Brand and Footwear Designer of the Year. Bridge-bit Loafer in Navy £240, available at rossoliver.uk

RED PRESTIGE – GRAIL FRAMES Finding your own style is the key to creating a confident and comfortable outfit and self-expression is at the core of what RED PRESTIGE do. Their sunglasses come in a variety of frames that each have a unique appeal. The Grail frames from the Black Collection are bold with acetate decoration in the style of chiselled marble and gold-plated accents. Whether you’re a high achiever or an underdog, this Amsterdam based eyewear specialist have the right frames for you. Grail Marble Black £87, available from redprestige.com

SEVEN LAYER Seven Layer (7L) use military inspiration to create a versatile range of technical wear that is both stylish and practical. Their 2021 summer collection is based on the New British Forces Multi-Terrain Patter Camouflage so you can hide in mountains, cities or forests with equal ease – who you’re hiding from is your own business. The collection includes a t-shirt, multiple jackets, hoodies, a parka, an impedance smock and field shirts – for all the layers of protection you could need. Find out more at sevenlayer.com

Oliver Brown – Eaton Jacket Oliver Brown may have been known as the premium top hat supplier for Royal Ascot over the past five years but their wider range of bespoke and ready to wear clothing is of an equally high standard. This Eaton Jacket is part of their new summer collection and features a full lining, working cuffs, pick-stitch detailing, and a canvassed chest-piece – produced in Irish linen. The Glen Check in tan is a wardrobe essential for any modern gentleman. Eaton Jacket Glen Check Tan £345, available at oliverbrown.org.uk and in store

BILLY RUFFIAN – BOAT SHOE Boat shoes are usually relegated to the role of weekend wear, however the stylish offerings from Billy Ruffian are too cool to dismiss with boat duty and could easily be you daily choice this summer. The Leanders combine a one-piece lace design with oiled leather in a variety of colours, while the Lulworths add a loafer style slip on. Both come with a natural siped rubber sole, a hallmark of boat shoes that provides seaworthy grip. Leander and Lulworth £120, from billyruffianshoes.co.uk

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grooming

Hawkins & Brimble Refillable Essentials British grooming brand Hawkins & Brimble wants to ditch 95% of its plastic usage by the end of this year. To help achieve this, the company has just introduced a new range of refillable grooming essentials from shampoo to hair spray. These five products come in refillable aluminium packaging and can be topped up using recyclable refill pouches. A great way to feel great while also supporting sustainability. Refillable bottles £12, refill pouches £7, available at hawkinsandbrimble.co.uk

MAN THEORY – LE BEAU BEARD OIL

AKT LONDON - DEODORANT

Cosmetics and grooming was one of the first industries to undergo a close level of scrutiny regarding environmental issues and sustainability. As such, brands like Man Theory, which began during lockdown, have become some of the leading voices in responsible manufacturing. Their products, like Le Beau Beard Oil, come in robust packaging while also smelling and feeling great to use with ingredients that actively heal the skin. Le Beau Beard Oil £12.99, available from mantheorylondon.com

Founded by West End actors Ed Currie and Andy Coxon, these deodorant balms from AKT come in cream form. Made from soothing shea butter and calendula oil and infused with natural botanicals, one pea sized application in the morning gives you 24 hours of protection. Better yet it comes in fully recyclable metal packaging (even the cap) and you can order your tubes on a subscription basis, so your armoury stays stocked all year long. £18, aktlondon.com

THE FELLOWSHIP – ADVANCED MOISTURISER The Fellowship is a line of vegan and cruelty-free grooming products including advanced moisturiser, body wash, conditioner and more that has been launched this year after five years of development as a brand. The products are the brainchild of Andrew Cooper, a male supermodel who has travelled the globe and experienced the full gauntlet of male beauty products, and is seeking to normalise their use as part of men’s daily routine. Advanced Moisturiser £25, available from the-fellowship.co.uk

Battle Rhythm Beard Co. – Big Bastard Collection Battle Rhythm Beard Co. are a bombastic and characterful brand delivering vegan and vegetarian-friendly grooming products for men, with a portion of each sale going to veteran and first responder charities. Not only will their beard butter and soap make you look good but they also have great names like Spitfire and M-72. Feeling cool is a big part of style. If your beard is particularly wild, they offer The Big Bastard collection, which contains everything you need to get it under control. Big Bastard £65, available at battlerhythmbeardco.com

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END — moviewatch

M OVIE WATC H

The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou

The Vostok Amphibia ‘Zissou’ and Rolex GMT Master reflect the lead character’s fortunes

Wes Anderson films aren’t everybody’s cup of tea. Quirky doesn’t even come into it. In The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou specifically, the humour is very deadpan, the characters are rarely sympathetic and the plot is often inscrutable. If you’ve yet to delve into the strange waters of the film, a little summary of that plot. Having lost his partner to a shark (under rather suspicious circumstances) the eponymous Zissou, played fabulously by Bill Murray, enlists a rag-tag team of Wes Anderson regulars to hunt the oversized fish down. As ever from the director it’s beautifully shot and the attention to detail is so extreme that it feels like every frame could be the subject of a dissertation by film students up and down the country. Of course, the detail we’re interested in is the choice of watches worn by the cast and characters. It would be remise of me not to start with the watch worn by the eponymous star, Steve Zissou (Bill Murray). The character is based on the real-life oceanographer Jacques Cousteau, even down to the ever-present red hat, so you might expect Murray to be equipped with a timepiece from Cousteau’s own collection, like a Rolex Submariner or Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, maybe a Doxa. However, Zissou is down on his luck, with his ship the Belafonte practically falling apart, so a luxury timepiece wouldn’t make sense. Instead, they opted for a Vostok Amphibia - the cheap (at less than £100) and cheerful Russian diver’s watch. In fact, the ref. 420526 that Murray wore is better known as the Vostok Amphibia ‘Zissou’ and Vostok even released a commemorative caseback with his face on it. It’s the perfect choice, with all the same industrial charm as the Belafonte and fitting perfectly with the in-story budget problems faced by the character. In fact, multiple characters tout Vostoks. However, there is a wolf among the Vostok sheep. Ned Plimpton (Owen Wilson) waltzes into the film with a Rolex GMT Master. It immediately makes Ned stand out as suspicious. Why is someone with a watch that outprices everyone on the Belafonte so interested in joining in? It’s a watch that demands centre stage, which Anderson is willing to give it with multiple scenes that isolate the watch in the foreground. It makes us doubt Ned’s intentions. Is he trying to upstage and take over from his supposed father, Steve Zissou – as some of the crew suspect? However, much like the Rolex GMT Master with its 48-hour power reserve Calibre 3075, Ned turns out to have a heart of gold and is the focus of much of the film’s emotional resolution. It’s perhaps unsurprising that it takes a quirky director like Anderson to realise the subtle juxtaposition between Rolex and Vostok but you have to admit it, it’s perfect watch casting.

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Oracle Time - Issue 74 - Summer Issue 2021

Articles inside

MOVIE WATCH

MICROBRAND CORNER

IN FOCUS

UNSUNG VINTAGE

THE BEST NAUTICAL WINES

WATCH REVIEWS

THE BOATS THAT ROCK

SIREN CALL

STRAP IN

SHORELINE SOPHISTICATION

AHOY THERE

SURF’S UP

THE ULTIMATE DIVE WATCH GUIDE

WHAT IS A MASTER CHRONO?

FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT

ASK THE ORACLE