Oracle Time - Issue 71 - April Sport Issue.

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .71

The Deep Side of

LONGINES The Sports Issue ACTIVE STYLE | SPLIT-SECOND TIMING | CAFÉ RACERS

ISSUE 71

5.95

£

ORACLE TIME #71

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent Watch: Longines HrydroConquest longines.com

The past year hasn’t exactly been great for sport. Empty stadiums, derelict stands and cancelled events has meant that most fans have been left wanting. Personally, there’s no sport I’m particularly invested in but even I have to admit I’ve felt the absence – and not just because of the grand old tradition of watching the game in the pub.

Still, at least up-and-coming (and ever-charming) star Tommy Fleetwood is optimistic; we speak to the British golfer about how lockdown’s been treating him and, more importantly, when he’s expecting to win his first major tournament on page 123.

Rather than force you to live vicariously through his exploits, we’ve also run down the best courses to play on both here in the UK and abroad, and are best suited to those of us whose handicap has crept up over the past few months.

Read about these particularly luxurious golfing getaways on page 112.

It’s obviously impossible to talk about watches and sports without mentioning racing – as proven by this issue’s Movie Watch on page 160 - and thus the calibre behind many of the most famous racing watches in history: The Zenith El Primero.

Yet what you might not realise is that the calibre ran a race all its own, as Josh Simms discovers on page 52.

Of course, not all racers have four wheels and with retro tastes on the up, we enlisted watch and motorcycle aficionado Simon de Burton to delve into a subject near and dear to his heart: Café Racers. From the legendary Ace Café to the craziest custom jobs around now, discover what really makes a Café Racer on page 129.

If you’re looking for something a bit more modern in style, we took to the blustery streets of London this issue for our latest activewear-slanted style shoot, pairing big, bold, street-adjacent watches with outfits styled by our own Nick Carvell. Let us know if you recognise exactly where we shot the looks.

Bright orange hoodies and plenty of camo not being for everyone, we also look at the latest trends for SS21, picking out a few key pieces so that you can update your wardrobe accordingly. After all, we’re going to be let out of our homes eventually; we may as well look the part when we do.

If on the other hand you prefer to live in a football shirt, on page 99 we go through what we think are the coolest ever designed, from Arsenal’s famous bruised banana to the more recent sell-out Nigerian attempt. My favourite?

Mexico, 1998.

Finally, to round things off we have our lead watch of the issue, out bi-colour cover star, the Longines HydroConquest. Not only is it a lot of watch for the money, but it’s the latest in a rather prestigious pedigree of divers from the Swiss watchmaker. Paired with two-tone good looks, it’s a welcome new, non-heritage addition to their catalogue.

As ever, stay safe, stay sane and enjoy this issue.

Sam Kessler, Editor

KEEP IN TOUCH: @oracle_time | @oracle_time | facebook.com/oracleoftime | oracleoftime.com

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ORACLE TIME #71

CONTRIBUTORS WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk

Nick Carvell

Style Editor-At-Large A lifelong fan of double denim (even triple on occasion), Nick started his career as the launch Social Media Editor of mrporter. com before leaving to become Associate Style Editor of British GQ, then Editor of London men’s magazine The Jackal. Today he’s a freelance menswear and grooming writer based in Bedfordshire – as well as his most important role to date, Style Editor at Large for Oracle Time.

SUB EDITOR

Simon de Burton

Dan Mobbs danmobbs@hotmail.com

A freelance journalist whose articles on cars, motorcycles, boats and watches appear in publications around the world, he has been riding motorcycles since the age of six and currently has a stable of 15 machines to ensure all bases are covered. The author of ‘Classic Cars – a Century of Masterpieces’, he is currently completing a companion volume about motorcycles.

JUNIOR COPYWRITER

Michael Sonsino michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Kirsty Illingworth kirsty@opulentmedia.co.uk DIRECTORS

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Aidy Smith

is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers. He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped.

“I’ll be heading straight back to the Maldives as soon as physically possible. Just a shame I didn’t get stranded there in the first place!”

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4615

Chris Youé

Watch specialist at Phillips Auction House in London, Chris comes from a long background in watch retail, wears a Zenith Daytona and plays a Fender Jazzmaster in Firemist Silver (with a heavy right hand)...

George Parker george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4616 ACCOUNT MANAGER

Josh Sims

is a writer and editor contributing to the likes of Esquire, Wallpaper and The Times, among others. His latest book, ‘Retro Watches’, is published

by Thames & Hudson.

Themba Wirz themba@opulentmedia.co.uk 0208 057 1140 OT MAGAZINE is published monthly

by Opulent Media 020 7871 4615

Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

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ORACLE TIME #71

CONTENTS

1

OT M AG A ZINE / ISSUE 71

44 — DIVING INTO LONGINES’ QUIET PEDIGREE

18 — AFICIONADO

We reveal what’s on our radar and what should be on your shopping list this month

We explore the accessible watchmaker’s diving heritage and its modern reference

26 — NEWS

A round-up of the latest happenings in luxury living and, of course, the best in horology

38 — CROWN 2021

Ahead of Watches and Wonders we predict what to expect from Rolex this year

40 — ASK THE ORACLE

An essential guide to what makes the ideal microbrand

There’s not a realm of watchmaking they haven’t dabbled in, to some degree of excellence Longines — p44

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ORACLE TIME #71

CONTENTS

2

82 — A SOARING SUCCESS

Meet the man bringing rockstar sensibility (and tailoring) to running

87 — REAL WORLD RE-ENTRY THREADS

All you need to help make the transition from housebound slob to fashion-ready gent

99 — THE COOLEST SOCCER SHIRTS EVER It’s not all about the result, looking good matters too

105 — WATCH REVIEWS

129

The OT take on models from Carl F. Bucherer and Eone

112 — FAIRWAY TO HEAVEN

The most luxurious and relaxing golf resorts in the UK and abroad

123 — FLEETWOOD’S ON TRACK

The British golf star talks connected watches, the Ryder Cup and that elusive major 112

129 — CAFE RACERS

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It was such a leap that his movement would be found inside legends like Rolex’s Daytona for the next 30 years The Zenith of Movement — p62

62 — THE ZENITH OF MOVEMENT

The legendary El Primero and the quest for fractional timekeeping

69 — SPEED DIALS The best engine-ready chronographs anywhere

123

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Exploring the high-octane history of British café racers

138 — CALIFORNIA DREAMING

Savouring every last drop of Penfolds’ new collection from the wine oasis of Australia

145 — IN FOCUS

UNDONE, Crude and Scatola Del Tempo are in the spotlight

155 – MICROBRAND CORNER What’s new in the world of the small-scale?

160 – MOVIE WATCH

Drive to Survive will thrill F1 and watch enthisiasts equally

FRONT — aficionado

edited by: MICHAEL SONSINO

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

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FRONT — aficionado

CASIO G-SHOCK GMW-B5000TR-9

Casio’s G-Shock full metal collection is no stranger to bright colours, but even by their standards the new GMW-B5000TR-9 stands out for its distinctive style. The case and bracelet feature a rainbow of colours including gold, dark grey, light grey, blue and red. The mirror finish that makes the colours pop is enabled by the latest developments in titanium alloys, created by Casio and metalworking specialists specifically for the G-Shock collection. £1,480, g-shock.co.uk

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FRONT — aficionado

SURVIVING SCOTLAND

After a solid year of staying indoors, the wilderness calls and the Scottish Highlands are open for exploration. Enter Wildnis and their custom-built Land Rover Defenders, which are ready to take you into some of the most breathtaking landscapes the UK has to offer. And don’t worry about the food; Wildnis camping rations are Michelin-star quality. £3,500pp, www.wildnis.co.uk

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FRONT — aficionado

ANGELL E-BIKE

Personal transport has been revolutionised since the advent of electric motor assisted bicycles, but one of the drawbacks has been their weight and bulky design. That is until French company Angell decided to let designer Ora Ïto have a stab at creating a super sleek e-bike. The result is one of the lightest in the world at less than 16kg. It looks the part, too. £2,690, angell.bike

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FRONT — aficionado

RACING REALITY

Most simulators only manage a facsimile of the real thing, as close to tearing round the Nurburgring as Street Fighter is getting into a brawl.

The Axsim Formula Simulator by Cranfield however is not a toy; it’s the closest thing you can get to reality without getting into an F1 racer. Thanks to their 4 modules of motion technology operating in 11 degrees of freedom across 6 axes, the near-instantaneous system feels like the real thing – enough that the manufacturer supplies professional drivers across the world. When you feel this thing emulate sustained motion, you’ll see why.

Prices from £36,000, axsim.racing

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FRONT — aficionado

RETRO-MODERN STYLINGS

Retro is all the rage at the moment and this jacket from Simon Fish captures rosetinted style in all its glory.

Perfectly paired here with a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso 90th anniversary timepiece, the DUNE jacket is a versatile spring/summer garment with half-lining to keep you cool. With its eye catching Art Deco vibes and elegant cut, Simon Fish’s strikingly modern take on roaring 20s glamour is conversely just as timeless. simonlloydfish.com

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FRONT — aficionado

HEDONISTIC CASE STUDY

Hedonism may not have been able to welcome all that many people into their extraordinary haven of fine wine just off Berkley Square, but never fear!

The dedicated epicureans amongst us can still get their finest delivered straight to our door via the boutique’s subscription service: CASE STUDY. Choose a tailored selection or leave it to the experts for a surprise. Either way, you’ll be enjoying some world-leading bottles.

From £200 a month, hedonism.co.uk

E-TYPE’S DIAMOND ANNIVERSARY

A Jaguar E-Type and a second Jaguar E-Type – name a more iconic duo. To celebrate the 60th anniversary of what is simply one of the coolest cars ever to see production, Jaguar is releasing six limited edition pairs of restored 3.8 E-types inspired by the 9600 HP and the 77RW from the 1960s. The cars will feature tribute vintage details while being kitted out with full modern convenience. The owners will be invited on a CoventryGeneva road trip in 2022. jaguar.com/classic

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FRONT — aficionado

WAVES OF RUM

Proving that rum is becoming every bit as exclusive as whisky, Lalique has teamed up with Colombian maestros Dictador for a superlative collaboration: Dictator Generations En Lalique. The hand-made decanter is an evocative, light-filled play on tropical waters and the liquid inside is just as special, a blend of rums dating back to 1976. Generations is right.

Limited to 300 decanters, #0 sold at Sotheby’s for £30,000, RRP £14,000, dictador.com

TASTING NOTES: Port and sherry on the nose with smoky cinnamon giving way to leather, dark fruits and Christmas spices.

Similar notes follow through on the palate, joined by cocoa, vanilla and dark, delicious coffee. The finish is a mix of smoky tobacco and sweet fruits, balanced and long-lasting.

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EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS THE DORCHESTER AL FRESCO The venerable Dorchester celebrates 90 years of over-thetop luxury on Tuesday 20 April, but that doesn’t mean the grand old hotel doesn’t have some new tricks up its sleeve.

On Monday 12 April, they will be launching the hotel’s first ever rooftop bar and restaurant, the unimaginatively named The Dorchester Rooftop.

Overseen by chef Mario Perera, expect a mix of British, French and Mediterranean cuisine, some fantastic cocktails and some of the finest views over Hyde Park in the entire capital. Not a bad way to celebrate lockdown lifting.

Reservations only; £60 minimum spend applied.

Book at dorchestercollection.com

DOXA PARTNERS WITH WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND With their immensely bright diving colours and solid specialist specs, Doxa has been on the up and up for a few years now. It looks as though they’re about to kick things into an even higher gear, with a newly-announced partnership with watch retail giant Watches of Switzerland.

The Swiss diving brand is now available online through Goldsmiths, Mappin & Webb and, of course, Watches of Switzerland, with a debut of their cool new SUB 300 Carbon Collection. Big news for anyone that, like us, loves a bit of colour in their professional level wristwear. watches-ofswitzerland.co.uk

Big news for anyone that, like us, loves a bit of colour in their professional level wristwear 26

FRONT — world news

MARVEL’S ROYAL OAK The pandemic may have slowed Marvel’s production line of highoctane comic book movies – outside of Disney + at least – but as soon as cinemas open we’re sure they’ll be back to form. And, thanks to their new partnership with Audemars Piguet, expect Earth’s Mightiest Heroes to be sporting some serious new wrist candy.

The partnership doesn’t come out of the blue; Don Cheadle, AKA War Machine, has been a brand ambassador since 2017. How this will affect both AP and Marvel has yet to be seen, but a few superhero themed Offshores aren’t hard to imagine. Iron Man’s red and gold or the red, white and blue of Captain America’s shield perhaps. audemarspiguet.com

WATCHES & WONDERS The biggest watch event of the year is coming this month. On Wednesday 7 April expect your Instagram to be flooded with shiny new timepieces from the likes of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, Piaget, Panerai, Bvlgari, Zenith *pause for breath* Tudor, Nomos Glashutte, Carl F. Bucherer, Rolex and more.

So pop the event in your calendar, get your credit card ready and don’t worry if there’s far too many to keep track of – we’ve done it for you. Just keep an eye on oracleoftime.com where we will be going through the best releases as and when they come out.

For the full list of brands taking part, visit watchesandwonders.com

HIGHLAND PARK 50-YEAR-OLD

© Image: Owen Edelsten

Any whisky that makes it to the ripe old age of 50 is worth celebrating; five decades of aging provides the kind of character collectors and aficionados look for in the best of the best. Enter Highland Park with their new expression, created by Master Whisky Maker, Gordon Motion, using a traditional solera system. It’s a method best known for sherry and rum and here has led to a serious liquid well above premium.

Tasting notes: Intensely rich, sweet and fragrant, with black cherries, muscovado sugar, peaches soaked in alcohol, underpinned by dark chocolate, exotic spices, candied orange peel and a light peat smoke. £20,000, thewhiskyexchange.com

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FRONT — world news

The chance to get a mystery timepiece in the post is like Christmas come early

OXFORD STREET IN ART Monday 12 April is a big day here in the UK: it’s the day we can get back to shopping. Thank god. To celebrate, Opera Gallery Mayfair and W1 Curates are transforming London’s busiest street into a futuristic work of art courtesy of light sculptor Anthony James.

Constellations will be part of

the longest running permanent art exhibition in Europe and promises a completely unique outdoor experience, including an 8K resolution system creating London’s most optically powerful screen. Think of it as Piccadilly Circus on creatively placed steroids.

Find out more at operagallery.com or just visit Oxford Street on the 12th.

Think of it as Piccadilly Circus on creatively placed steroids

CLOCKWORK CLUB SKI SEASON’S NOT OVER YET Sure, every ski resort in the world may remain closed until likely next season, but that doesn’t mean it’s impossible to hit the slopes; you just might need to set your sights a little higher. Cookson Adventures is now offering bespoke heli-skiing opportunities so that, regardless of the state of play at sea level, you can get that much-needed dose of fresh mountain air before the skiing year ends.

Find out more at cooksonadventures.com

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As we’re all stuck at home, the rise of watch club subscriptions is too big a temptation to pass up, as the chance to get a mystery timepiece in the post is much like Christmas come early. So, we signed up to the Clockwork Club’s entry-level Gentleman Collection to see what we’d get. The result?

The David Nicholson Harry BL SI. A handsome little watch with a respectable Miyota movement, the Harry’s sports elegance 39mm case is a casual, versatile number and particularly handsome in blue. It’s far from a prestigious piece, but a nice little surprise all the same.

The Clockwork Club Gentleman Collection is priced at £40 a month or £408 for the year. Find out more at clockworkclub.co.uk

FRONT — world news

PHILLIPS GENEVA AUCTION XIII It goes without saying that any watch auction in Geneva is going to be impressive, but Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo always put on a show like no other. Taking place 8 to 9 May in the watchmaking capital of the world, the auction is headlined by no less than four Patek Philippe 2499s, the incredibly sought after perpetual calendar. Expect serious money on those.

That’s not all of course.

Keeping to Patek, there will be an extremely rare Ref. 5004 on offer without a reserve price, a Series 1 ‘Theo Fennell’ by British maestro Roger Smith and the incredible Harry Winston Opus One, the model created for the master of diamonds by none other than F.P. Journe.

Discover the full catalogue at phillips.com

GUESS T H E WATCH Last issue’s watch was, of course, our favourite Sports Luxe timepiece of the modern era and successor to the phenomenal 222, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas. Yes, yes, it was an easy one. So let’s try something a little bit harder.

As this issue is all about sport, we’ve opted for a watchmaker that’s not just inextricably linked with sporting ambassadors, but insists on being on their wrist mid match, game or race. This recent release is one of the sportiest yet with an eye-wateringly colourful split seconds chronograph.

what is the

WATCH

?

What is the watch?

CHECK BACK NEXT ISSUE FOR THE ANSWER Think you know the answer? Email our editor for a chance to win a year’s free subscription at sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk.

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FRONT — introducing

GIVEN YOU’RE HERE, reading words printed onto a glossy paper page, you probably appreciate the feel of a proper magazine in your hands. We certainly do. But that doesn’t mean this is all we do and as the world moves ever more online we’ve moved with it.

That’s why you can discover some of our finest photography and daily posts on all things watchmaking – balanced by a healthy dose of cool, luxury lifestyle content – on our Instagram page. Let us know what you think of our original photography and the latest releases from the watch world. If searching for our name is just too much hassle, use the QR Code to take you straight there.

For more in-depth content, we’ve also been expanding into video, where you can listen to the dulcet tones of our Editor as he gets hands-on with some of the newest releases around.

You’ll want to pay particular attention around 7 April. If you’ve read this entire news section, you’ll know why. The QR code will take you right there. While you’re there, don’t forget to like, comment and subscribe.

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FRONT — introducing

NEWS

INTRO DUCING IN DETAIL

39mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • 2121 calibre automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • £96,100, audemarspiguet.com

© diode SA - Denis Hayoun

•

ADUEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin

AP have gone green for 2021 and not because they’re suddenly environmentally friendly. They’ve created five new Riyal Oak models, all with the same forest green front and centre. One though stands out: The Jumbo Extra-Thin. Not only is it the first 15202 to use the colour, but the smoky dial on show is magnificent. If the previous rose gold dialled model is anything to go by, then this is a collectors’ piece in the making.

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FRONT — introducing

IN DETAIL

IN DETAIL

• 43.5mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Omega Calibre 8806 automatic movement with 55-hour power reserve • £7,410, omegawatches.com

38mm platinum case with 30m water resistance • ETA 7001 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • £28,200, fearswatches.com •

OMEGA

Seamaster Diver 300m Black Black

FEARS BRUNSWICK Platinum

It may have a pretty terrible name, but it’s an understandable one. Following their stealthy take on the Dark Side of the Moon Speedmaster, Omega has taken the same blacked-out approach to their flagship diving watch, albeit with an anthracite lume over pure black. The result is a more nuanced, shadowed watch with far brighter luminescence, necessary for a professional diver.

Complete on matching rubber strap, two blacks in the name barely seems enough.

With their 1920s cushion cases and elegant good looks, the Fears Brunswick is a fantastic entry-level watch. Now though the British brand is entering an entirely new world with their first full precious metal (not plated) model – and they’re aiming high.

The new platinum Brunswick pairs the illusive metal with a multi-finish anthracite dial and, for a touch of fancy, diamond indexes. Not only is it a handsome piece in and of itself, but it promises big things from the independent British brand.

IN DETAIL

47.70mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Kronaby connected movement BT003 with two-year battery life • EUR 450 (approx. £385), kronaby.com •

KRONABY Diver S3778/1

Swedish brand Kronaby hit that perfect sweet spot between the classic good looks of triedand-true mechanical wristwatches and the practical advantages of connected wearables.

This handsome number for example is, on the surface, a handsome diving watch in fittingly nautical blue, complete with 200m water resistance and rotating diving bezel.

Underneath it has all the connected features you could want – Bluetooth timekeeping, alarms, call declining and ‘find my watch’.

Better yet, with a two-year battery life, there’s no need for charging.

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FRONT — introducing

STAR WARS X KROSS STUDIO Death Star Tourbillon

This is the watch the geeky kid in all of us has been waiting for: the Death Star as a piece of haute horology. The Dark Side is here and it’s cooler than ever, with a central tourbillon cage inspired by the planet destroying superweapon and a cutting-edge look straight out of the Imperial archives. Oh, and it comes with a Kyber crystal – just a prop though, no lightsaber making here. Just don’t wear it around anyone from Alderaan.

IN DETAIL

45mm titanium case with 30m water resistance • Calibre MKS7000 manual-wind movement with 120-hour power reserve • $150,000 (approx. £110,000), limited to 10 pieces, kross-studio.ch •

IN DETAIL • 44mm case in titanium or rose gold with 30m water resistance • In-house MB&F hand-wound movement with 168-hour power reserve • From EUR 92,000 (approx. £95,000 inc VAT), limited to 33 pieces in Titanium, 18 in Rose Gold, mbandf.com

MB&F

© Photo: Laurent Xavier Moulin

LMX

Over the last decade, the Legacy Machines have made a distinct wing of MB&F design, offering a twist on the conventions of fine watchmaking instead of a space station, robot or angry bulldog. The innovations have still been there, including things like split escapements and ever more flying components, but the LMs have always been more recognisable as, well, watches. Which brings us to 2021 and, celebrating a decade of Legacy Machines, the new LMX. It’s a stunner.

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FRONT — rolex 2021

© Images: courtesy of Monochrome

Explorer II Anniversary 2021 marks the 50th anniversary of the Explorer II, so expect the tool watch to be the belle of the ball this year. Smaller sizes would be a welcome addition, but as we saw with the Submariner last year, a full refresh could be in the offering, likely a return to the watch’s vintage roots with a fifties-inspired throwback look.

More likely we’ll see a movement upgrade. Rolex’s new calibres have been sweeping through their collection as a whole, yet not the Explorer II. Consider it a 50th birthday present to finally give the watch its dues and give it that overdue upgrade.

New Rolex Explorer Sizes After years of offering smaller models than most, Rolex has been on an upsizing campaign over the last couple of years. It’s also been far too long since the Explorer – a favourite here at OT – took its fair share of the limelight. So, we’re expecting a 41mm version of the 39mm classic. Other than the Oyster Perpetuals, it’s the entry-level Rolex and as such deserves the same sort of expansion. That of course would also mean a smaller version of 36mm. We reckon that’s less likely but still a solid possibility. It would bring a bit more attention back to the collection, offer some sizes that collectors have been clamouring for and generally broaden the appeal of the watch. Oh, and the sooner they introduce a white-dialled Explorer to match the two versions of the Explorer II, the better.

ROLEX

PREDICTIONS FOR 2021

RIGHT NOW, as I’m writing this, the hype ahead of Watches and Wonders is at fever pitch. What will the headline pieces be?

Which brands will push the boundaries of haute horology? And is bronze still a thing?

Well, being the industry insiders we are, we here at Oracle Time already know what’s coming from the vast majority of watchmakers this year. Yet while that does indeed take some of the fun out of it, there’s one watchmaker that has kept their cards closer to their chest than a professional poker player. They’re also the

one that collectors are likely to get into the greatest frenzy over: Rolex.

Now, while pumping Jean-Frederic Dufour for information is out of the question, it hasn’t stopped watch lovers everywhere placing bets on precisely what The Watch with the Crown will add to their line-up this year. Given the unexpected success of the Oyster Perpetual last year, predicting everything is out of the question, but we have a few ideas nonetheless. Some of these are incredibly likely; some are flights of fancy.

It’s pretty obvious which are which.

Given the unexpected success of the

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Oyster Perpetual last year, predicting everything is out of the question, so we thought we’d have a chat to our continental friends over at Monochrome to see what they expected to see. After all, they’ve had an almost supernatural success rate over the years, to the point where we’re still not certain that they don’t have a brand insider amongst their ranks.

Here then are our favourite Monochrome predictions for the new Rolex releases of 2021, in order of likeliness. Come the 7th April, we’ll be sure to let you know just how accurate they are.

FRONT — rolex 2021

New Oyster Perpetual Colours Not exactly ground-breaking but necessary. One of the more confusing aspects of last year’s Oyster Perpetual launch is why certain colours were only available in certain sizes. There didn’t seem to be all that much rhyme or reason to it, except that the 41mm lost out.

This year, Rolex will likely be filling those holes and, given the success the brighter colours have seen, will hopefully be adding a few more into the mix. A gold maybe? A salmon? A fire truck red alternative to the coral? Who knows. But come 7 April, we’ll be sure to let you know.

Everose Rolesor Daytona There have been plenty of mocked-up Daytonas this year in lieu of any in 2020, and it seems pretty likely that Rolex will offer at least a couple of new additions to their collection. We’d like to see a few funky dial combos, though it’s more likely that the watchmaker will just offer a twist on the alreadyestablished look.

One such look is the yellow gold Rolesor Daytona, which has been a staple of the collection for a while now. Well, why not rose gold instead?

It’s a little less retro, a touch more modern and, personally, we think whoever came up with it on this chocolate brown dial is a genius. This is the one we think is most likely. It’s a charming alternative to an already established model, it’s a watch that the collection feels like it’s missing and, most importantly, it’s a hell of a good-looking watch.

“

We think whoever came up with it on this chocolate brown dial is a genius

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FRONT — rolex 2021

Yellow Gold Oysterflex Sea-Dweller Another outlier here but perhaps not as unexpected as the precious Sub. The Sea-Dweller is already available in Rolesor – Rolex’s unique take on bi-colour yellow gold and steel – and is an incredibly handsome watch in that signature retro way.

This number is pictured on an Oysterflex bracelet, which is a damn fine touch. The odd rubber hybrid with a metal core is only usually on full gold models. We reckon it should be on more – it would be a major selling point for the models it’s equipped on – and works with the black dial and bezel.

Full gold though is, we think, a step too far. There are likely some purists out there already hyperventilating at the thought and a soft gold case on a watch built to reach depths of 1,220m is a bit ridiculous. That doesn’t mean it’s not a cool idea of course, but we reckon it’ll be just that: an idea and nothing else. Which is a shame.

Platinum Submariner Date With last year’s overhaul of the Submariner collection as a whole, new additions to the updated range are a non-starter. Just what that’ll be though is up for some debate. We’re not expecting anything too extreme, though that hasn’t stopped us falling in love with this idea: a full platinum Sub date.

The golden, Root Beer GMT Master-II was a stunner and we can easily imagine Rolex expanding the top end of their collection. A sub though?

Seriously? Well Rolex has never done anything like this before, so we’re not holding out too much hope, but this mock-up with it’s lovely platinum sheen, paired with the kind of ice blue dial we’ve seen on other Rolex platinum models, is gorgeous. The blue ceramic bezel is already in the collection in the white gold 126619LB, but paired with a black dial instead.

We like the idea of a multitoned blue Rolex, though you can imagine it coming in well above the £35k mark so in the unlikely event this does see reality, you still won’t be seeing it often.

“

2021 marks the 50th anniversary of the Explorer II, so expect it to be the belle of the ball

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FRONT — ask the oracle

THE ORACLE SPEAKS

the owner is more often than not promoting his own work on social media. Like any start-up, it means that the people behind it need to care about what they’re doing.

The wizardry of the watch world explained

Unless you can guarantee you’re going to sell thousands of watches per year, many microbrands need to sell watches to make watches. That means they’ll often come in batches rather than a steady stream and sometimes with waiting times inbetween. That’s not always a bad thing of course; Fears watches for example regularly makes tweaks between their batches and you can tell a firstgeneration Brunswick from a new one.

Limited numbers also mean that microbrands tend to offer superb attention to detail. I recently bought a Paulin Neo, which not only came in a funky cork case, but included a hand-written note from the owners. It was a small touch, but one that made the waiting time – don’t worry, I was warned beforehand – feel worth it.

That can also mean limited editions and the most apt example of that would probably be Unimatic.

Every one of their watches is a strict limited edition and once they’re gone, they’re gone. On the one hand, it leads to a cool series of drops; on the other, it means I’ll likely never own their first Massena LAB collaboration.

[What Makes a Microbrand?]

There are some massive names in watchmaking: Rolex, Omega, Seiko et al. This is not about them.

This is about the brands you probably won’t have heard of, the small, independent watch brands working largely under the radar to create their own unique twists on timepieces both classical and avant garde. This is about microbrands.

It’s a term you’ve probably heard bandied about by horological pundits aplenty (us included) and one that nobody’s ever really taken the time to actually define. That’s because microbrand means a lot more than just being a small-scale watchmaker.

It means more than a crowd-funded collection and more even than the types of watches they produce.

So we’ve taken it upon ourself to try and pin down, once and for all, what really makes a microbrand as empirically as possible. So, let’s run through our criteria.

[Small Scale]

Scale is probably the most obvious way to think about microbrands. It’s in the name after all.

Because of the entrepreneurial way most microbrands are run, there tend not to be many people behind them. The brand owner and lead designer are, more often than not, the same person, which leads to an emphasis on creativity over monetisation.

British watchmaker Garrick is pretty much just two guys making great watches, to the point where

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[Limited Numbers]

[Crowdfunding]

If a brand is funding its latest project via Kickstarter, Indiegogo or some other donationcentric funding scheme then that’s a pretty good indicator of microbrand status. In fact, since Kickstarter came onto the scene, it’s been directly responsible for an explosion in microbrands, allowing creative watch lovers to showcase their own designs to likeminded collectors.

Probably the biggest success story was back in 2019, when Yema relaunched their Superman Heritage. Backers pledged over CHF 1 million (approx. £772,000) to recreate the 1963 classic, which served to build an incredible pre-order list before the watch was even finalised.

These projects are far from guaranteed successes though and more than half of timepiece kickstarters fail, only some for good reasons. Should a brand make it through the gauntlet, they’ll find themselves with a following and orders most new brands would kill for.

[Outsourced Production]

Running a fine watch manufacture requires immense expertise, a space to house it and plenty of funds to get started. It’s not easy and can be

FRONT — ask the oracle

“ The brand owner and lead designer are, more often than not, the same person, which leads to an emphasis on creativity over monetisation ”

A microbrand falls into at least four out of six criteria, with (clockwise from top left) Makina, Fears, Paulin Neo, Baltic and Unimatic all making the grade

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FRONT — ask the oracle

incredibly expensive. That’s why most of the time microbrands will instead work with third-party manufacturers to get their designs off the ground.

At the lower end, you’ll see Chinese-made, mass-produced movements, working up through Japanese Miyota and Seiko numbers to the Sellita and ETA of Switzerland. Sometimes they’re mechanical, sometimes quartz, but very rarely are they in-house. The same goes for the cases, straps and even packaging materials.

In fact, so prevalent are third-party manufacturers that it’s often touted that you could create and market a microbrand entirely remotely - which is precisely what the guys behind Furlan Marri have done. Their handsome, retro-slanted chronographs have been designed, prototyped and produced entirely since global lockdowns came in. The results speak for themselves.

[Creative Designs]

In general, microbrands exist because the person or persons that set it up figured there was a hole in the market for their particular design. Sometimes they’re right, sometimes they’re not, but it does breed a certain level of creativity and quirkiness that you can only ever find here.

The dial of the Feynman Cove for example would never have been built by a more reserved watch brand with its luminescent marine touches and the Makina Uriel II is hard enough to describe that it could only be a microbrand. I won’t go into the less successfully creative ones out there (sometimes there’s a good reason nobody’s created a specific design before) but this is the main reason most microbrands get started in the first place…

When Yema relaunched the Superman Heritage (top) backers pledged around £772,000 to recreate the 1963 classic

[Great Value]

buys, well under the old fashioned ‘entry-level’ benchmark of fine watches. You can try out a funky new style without worrying that it might not get all that much wear – and it’s why I have more than a few microbrand watches myself.

[Bringing it All Together]

… while this is the main reason most of us actually buy into them. For us, this is the big one that essentially ties everything else together. By keeping things small-scale, by using accessible third-party manufacturers and my marketing directly to collectors, microbrands are able to offer superb value for money.

Aside from the occasional quirky design touch, value is the main way microbrands stand out from the bigger, more prestigious watchmakers out there; the carrot to tempt you into buying a brand you might not be as sure about as your Rolexes and Omegas. Just take a look at the Baltic Aquascaphe; it’s a really great-looking piece with respectable specs sure, but better yet it’s also a lot of watch for your money.

This is also in good part why microbrands have become such an industry unto themselves. Many of these watches are cheap enough to be impulse

It has to be said that not every microbrand ticks every one of these boxes. There are many that avoid crowdfunding like the plague so as not to be lumped in as just another Kickstarter watch. There are some that offer serious haute horology by making the most of the watch in-house, while others lean on homage designs and accessibility rather than some creative new approach.

At the same time, some small-scale, intensely creative brands like MB&F or Urwerk aren’t ones you’d ever call microbrands; the same with value watchmakers like Oris or Frederique Constant.

They tick some of the boxes, but not enough.

So, as a rule of thumb, if a brand matches four out of six of our criteria, then as far as we’re concerned, it’s a microbrand. If you disagree, feel free to let us know so that we can explain exactly where you’ve gone wrong.

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FRONT — longines

WORDS:

SAM KESSLER

DIVING INTO LONGINES’ QUIET PEDIGREE EXPLORING THE ACCESSIBLE WATCHMAKER’S SURPRISING DIVING HERITAGE AND ITS MODERN, BI-COLOUR INCARNATION

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FRONT — longines

The blue, black and grey versions of Longines‘ no-nonsense, fuss-free divers range features the impressive L888 automatic calibre that packs 64 hours of power reserve

As their phenomenal Heritage Collection has shown, there’s not a realm of watchmaking they haven’t dabbled in, to some degree of excellence 46

Perhaps I take it for granted that Longines has one of the richest histories of any watchmaker out there – after all, one of the first watches I ever remember was my grandad’s 1920s (ish) rectangular Longines dress watch. I’ve mentioned them in the same breath as Rolex and Omega to non-collectors to nonplussed confusion, but id’ argue that they do have the heritage to match.

Not only did they create some of the most important chronograph movements ever, including the 13ZN – which some might say is up there with the El Primero – but as their phenomenal Heritage Collection has shown, there’s not a realm of watchmaking they haven’t dabbled in, to some degree of excellence.

As Matthias Breschan, newly-incumbent CEO of Longines puts it, “we have an extensive archive dating back to the first years of the company on every serial numbered piece the brand has ever produced. We can look back and see technical information about these pieces as well as the countries they were headed.

Looking back at our historical product, gives us inspiration for technological advances and what can be updated for today’s needs.” That includes diving.

Back in 2019, Longines introduce a good crosssection of collectors to their diving heritage for the first time with their modern recreation of the watch world’s second most famous Nautilus: the Longines Nautilus Skin Diver. Developed in the golden age of underwater exploration, it was a big watch at 40mm and had a (for the time) an impressive 150m water resistance thanks to its crown sealing tech.

A lot has changed in the decades since and, while Longines does well by their Heritage Collection – including that re-issued Skin Diver – no modern brand can survive on their archives alone, no matter what last year’s crop of retro releases tells you. In fact, while you’ll likely have seen more press around their archival releases, Longines’ modern diver has been a quiet hit for the watchmaker.

According to Matthias, “the HydroConquest collection, especially in the UK is very popular” and on paper it makes for a very appealing option. For round about 1K you get a seriously rugged watch with 300m water resistance, a relatively stripped back tool watch vibe and a decent movement – the L888 calibre, a riff on the ETA A31.L02.

Consider the Skin Diver “updated for today’s needs.”

It’s basically the underwater equivalent of Longines’ aviation-slanted Spirit collection and has about the same sort of personality, less of a tool watch more of a timepiece for guys who like to appear like they’re sporty.

FRONT — longines

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FRONT — longines

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FRONT — longines

If the Skin Diver was a pioneering Jacques Cousteau, the HydroConquest is the guy that scuba dives on holiday. They both need equipment that’ll do the job and do it well, it’s just a case of specialisation

Increasingly fashionable retro touches influence the HydroConquest, which includes a bi colourway featuring gold made from PVD rather than the actual precious metal to ensure the soft metal doesn’t damage underwater

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“Even though wearing a HydroConquest model does not make you a professional diver, it displays a sporty and dynamic image,” says Matthias. “Wearing a Longines timepiece gives a clear message: my watch has a story to tell, and so do I.” In short, if the Skin Diver was a pioneering Jacques Cousteau, the HydroConquest is the guy that scuba dives on holiday. They both need equipment that’ll do the job and do it well, it’s just a case of specialisation.

Which is why it’s not too big a surprise to see that the latest additions to Longines’ HydroConquest collection are in bicolour.

More and more brands have been taking bicolour out for a spin over the past few years, it being shorthand for sixties and seventies retro. Now, while there’s always the question of whether gold belongs on a diving watch. I’m in the camp that if you’re actually going to use it for diving no, but that only a fraction of owners ever will. It all depends, in the end, how you want it to look.

“This depends a lot on personal taste and of course,” adds Matthias, “what you are planning to wear the watch for. If you plan to wear this as a casual piece, you might prefer the stainless steel models, but if you love the style and plan to wear for a more formal occasion, the bi colour might suit your needs better.

Everyone has its own way to express elegance.”

Matthias may be relatively new at the head of Longines, but he has the company line down pat. Yet allusions to ‘elegance is an attitude’ aside, it ties one of Longines’ most popular lines in with the evergrowing trend for retro touches, which is great provided that it doesn’t impact the way it works.

Fortunately, it doesn’t, though I have mixed feelings about why.

Whether for practical purposes or accessibility’s sake, the gold here is PVD rather than actual precious metal. Normally I’d balk at that, but in a diving watch it makes sense. You don’t want the soft metal getting damaged underwater but you want to keep the look and contrast of the rose gold. I’m not saying it’s the perfect solution – that would be to spend millions creating a new, hardwearing alloy and there’s enough of that going on already – but for Longines’ price range it fits.

Now, I’m not about to say that everyone with a Seamaster 300m or Submariner on their wishlist should rush out and get a handful of HydroConquests instead. It will hold you in good stead for sure and it’s a decent looking watch, but it’s not prestigious in nearly the same way.

Instead, it’s just worth remembering that far from being just another dive watch in a sea of many, the HydroConquest comes from a serious pedigree. And hey, if that’s not what matters to you, it’s still one of the best damn value divers out there.

FRONT — XXXXXX

Zenith’s El Primero is the first ever fully integrated, high-frequency, automatic chronograph movement

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FRONT — zenith

THE ZENITH OF MOVEMENT WORDS: JOSH SIMMS

JOSH SIMMS ON THE LEGENDARY EL PRIMERO MOVEMENT AND THE QUEST FOR FRACTIONAL TIMEKEEPING

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FRONT — zenith

THE MECHANICAL WATCH world has always striven for ever more accuracy. The telling of the time is, after all, the central function of any watch. Doing so with growing precision is, arguably, the core tenet of the watchmaker’s micro engineering. But for decades there’s also been a parallel quest: for the ever more accurate mechanical recording of elapsed time.

It’s what the chronograph was invented for, when, almost a century ago, in 1923, Gaston Breitling introduced the first wristwatch chronograph with a

Its overtones of masculinity and of action have, in 2021, long outlasted its actual day-to-day, real world functionality. There are only so many perfectly boiled eggs a man needs 54

stop/start pusher. With it came an aesthetic - that information-packed dial, those playful buttons - and an association - the timing of events, from artillery bombardments to motor races - that has ensured the chronograph remains, bar none, the single most popular complication in men’s watchmaking, one which has given us enduring watch icons the likes of the Rolex Daytona or Omega Speedmaster. Its overtones of masculinity and of action have, in 2021, long outlasted its actual day-to-day, real world functionality. There are only so many perfectly boiled eggs a man needs.

And yet watch-makers still see the mechanical recording of elapsed time to ever finer degrees of precision as a pursuit worthy in itself. It was only a decade ago that Tag Heuer launched its Mikrogirder, a concept piece capable of timing events to 1/2000th of a second, for which was required the invention of an entirely new regulator system - and thus watchmaking advances. But that was just the end point - or perhaps merely the latest benchmark - in an arms race that began half a century previously.

FRONT — xxxxxx

The TAG Heuer Carrera Mikrogirder 10000 concept, capable of timing events to 1/2000th of a second

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FRONT — zenith

Zenith’s El Primero (above and right) was unveiled in 1969. It remains in almost continuous production to this day and is still the most accurate chronograph in serial production

It was such a leap that his very movement is what would be found inside legends the likes of Rolex’s Daytona for the next 30 years This was when Zenith began its secretive work to develop the first automatic chronograph - the challenge to squeeze both automatic winding and a chronograph function into such a small space as a wristwatch case having beaten all previous attempts. Here was a bid by one player in the Swiss industry to still feel part of the technological advances of the age, to create what some have dubbed the greatest horological invention of the 20th century.

“An automatic chronograph was considered such a big challenge because, while you might be able to make one by adding a module, in a sandwich of complications, it made the watch too thick, so creating one really required a complete rethinking of the mechanism,” explains Laurence Bodenmann, Zenith’s

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heritage manager. “But the automatic movement had existed for a long time and it was generally felt in the industry that it was weird that nobody had added it to a chronograph. Remember that chronographs weren’t a staple of most watchmakers’ collections until the 1950s but demand was growing and there was a realisation in the industry that an automatic version - a modern, rational version - was necessary.”

What transpired over next few years has become the stuff of myth within the watchmaking world - and was the origins of watch fans’ lasting fascination with this category of timepiece. Certainly when Zenith’s El Primero was finally launched some eight years later, in 1969 - four years later than planned - many in the watch world were shocked. Or at least a consortium of Breitling, Dubois Depraz, Heuer-Leonidas and BurenHamilton was, since this super-group of short time measurement specialists had also been working in secret since 1966 to produce an automatic chronograph.

Indeed, the outcome of what was called Project 99, the caliber 11, was - ouch - due for launch less than three months later.

“I think at Zenith the watchmakers were more concerned with doing things in a new way, but of course for the marketing people being first was a big deal,” laughs Bodenmann. Zenith’s choice of name, El Primero, drove the point home. But the moniker was suitable given its pioneering approach. It allowed the balance to oscillate at 36,000 beats per hour, a rate which in turn allowed the measurement of elapsed time to a then unheard of 1/10th of a second - that’s literally the blink of an eye - with central rotor, column wheel and the other now standard gubbins of an automatic movement having undergone a remarkable feat of miniaturization. It was such a leap that his very movement is what would be found inside legends the likes of Rolex’s Daytona for the next 30 years.

In contrast, Project 99’s caliber 11 - which would go on to power the Navitimer and the Chromomat, the Carrera and the Monaco, among several best-selling classics - integrated a micro-rotor into a sandwich arrangement that meant the crown had to be positioned on the left side of the case. Smartly, the consortium got around this idiosyncrasy by marketing it as “the chronograph that doesn’t need winding”. No matter that the crown’s over there - you don’t need it anyway...

The caliber 11 has long since been superseded feeding what seems to be our insatiable appetite for mechanical chronographs. But the El Primero has remained in almost continuous production to this day, amazingly still the most accurate chronograph in serial production, with more recent versions capable of clocking elapsed time to 1/100th of a second. It seems there is no shortage of eggs that must be boiled very precisely indeed.

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FRONT — built for speed

Motorsport and watches go hand-in-hand and ever since Jack Heuer built the first true racing watch in 1963 that’s meant two things: a chronograph and an associated tachymeter. No matter how you dress it up, that’s what a racing watch is at its core.

That hasn’t stopped many a watchmaker having fun with the concept though and, as you’ve seen over the past few pages, horologists can be pretty dedicated to making the most accurate movements possible to time fractions of a second. Granted, in an actual race every millisecond does indeed matter, but in everyday life things are a touch more laid-back.

That’s why on this round-up of cool, engine-ready chronographs you’ll find everything from good-looking, accessible timepieces to serious watches built for speed.

BUILT FOR SPEED:

THE BEST RACING CHRONOGRAPHS ON THE CIRCUIT

TAG HEUER Formula 1

If you were expecting a Carrera on this list then think again; I don’t have anything against the legendary racing watch by any means, but there are plenty of other vintage-styled tachymeters out there and if you’re in the market for something a little more performance-oriented, TAG Heuer’s quartz-equipped Formula 1 is for you.

This latest edition in a mix of tarmac textured grey dial, black ceramic bezel and yellow highlights is about as sporty as you can get and, while it doesn’t quite have the prestige of its more grown-up mechanical teammates, it holds up in the timekeeping stakes. With water resistance of 200m, it’s also one of the most practical on this list, too.

THE DETAIL • 43mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Quartz chronograph movement • £1,550, tagheuer.com

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FRONT — built for speed

OMOLOGATO

Fiorano Chronograph

With a name referencing the vintage proving grounds of the almighty Ferrari, Omologato have set the bar high for their latest retro-styled racing chronograph. It almost goes without saying that the dial would be

red, with white subdials to imitate the racing numbers of 1950s speedsters.

Paired with a matching red bezel in the same lustrous, high speed scarlet, the Fiorano embodies the devout racing watch brand’s unique approach to capturing the greatest eras of motorsport. Equipped with a Miyota quartz movement, it has all the style

MONTBLANC

1858 Split-Second Chronograph Lime Gold

I’m sorry but you won’t be getting this one. I feel the need to get that out of the way first because all 18 of this beautiful thing will be long gone well before you read this.

The case is made from an alloy of gold, silver and iron, a unique mix that pairs very nicely with the green lettering and applied, superluminova numerals. The outer ring of digits is actually a telemeter – to measure distance – while the speed-measuring tachymeter snails around the middle of the dial. The superb monopusher movement is manual-wind which seems like a downside until you see the reverse and the movement therein. Any split-seconds (or rattrapante for the traditionalists) is impressive but here it’s finished immaculately. Let’s keep our fingers crossed for a mainline version sometime soon.

THE DETAIL • 44mm Lime Gold case with 30m water resistance • Calibre MB M16.31 hand-wound movement with 50-hour power reserve • €49,500 EUR, limited to 18 pieces, montblanc.com

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of a vintage pit lane chrono, without the price tag. It’s a lot more accessible than a track day on its namesake, that’s for sure.

THE DETAIL • 42mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Miyota quartz chronograph movement • £370, omologatowatches.com

FRONT — built for speed

CARL F. BUCHERER Heritage Bicompax Annual

When Carl F. Bucherer released their salmond-dialled throwback racing watch way back in the halcyon days of 2019, I loved it. It was one of my favourite watches of the year. This version doesn’t have quite the same vintage feel, but it’s a far more contemporary – and dare I say, wearable – version. It still has the retro bicompax layout, the same subtle tachymeter around the edge but now offers a reverse panda look with silver subdials on black.

Equipped with an in-house automatic movement, it’s a sleek, archival look with what seems like a ludicrously decent price tag. It’s another absolute winner as far as I’m concerned.

THE DETAIL • 41mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • CFB 1972 automatic movement with 42hour power reserve • £5,500, carl-f-bucherer.com

OMEGA

Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional

Yes, yes, the Speedmaster went to the moon, but it’s not just astronaut approved; it doubles as a damn fine racing watch, too. It even has speed in the name! The mild revamp at the beginning of this year ensured that the first watch to tick on the lunar surface kept its vintage feel with a few throwback touches doubling as fan service (including the tachymeter ‘dot over 90’). It also, perhaps more importantly, updated the movement to the Master Chronometer certified calibre 3861. For my money, it’s all about the hesalite version, not just because it’s the original but because the slightly more subtly redesigned bracelet is a winner.

THE DETAIL • 42mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Calibre 3861 automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve • £5,370, omegawatches.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

n e w Photography: FRASER VINCENT & TOM PETTIT

c a s u a l

Styling: NICK CARVELL

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STYLE — photoshoot

Whereas our fathers and grandfathers would’ve had very set outfits for very set purposes (office suits, exercise kit, downtime comfies, smart-casual attire), today men are more likely to have items that work for multiple events. This is partially down to improvements in fabrics and partially down to the relaxation of dress codes in our everyday lives, with the work suit becoming almost extinct overnight when offices abruptly shut. As dress codes relaxed, technical sportswear has become an ever-more important part our wardrobe lexicon as it offers versatility and comfort. In fact, it’s so prolific in menswear at the moment that even the least sporty among us will find details created for athletic purposes on our garments: smart trousers with a stretch waist and a drawstring, trainers that can be worn on a night out, t-shirts cut from sweat-wicking material. So, whether you’re looking at cool streetwear brands or labels more used to the catwalk than the pavement, it’s these sporty details that are setting the agenda in menswear right now. Here are a few of our favourites from the current season.

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STYLE — photoshoot

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Ultrablue - £11,300, zenith-watches.com A.P.C New Kaplan Trousers - £154, apcstore.co.uk A.P.C. Léandre S/S Polka-Dot Cotton Shirt - £121, apcstore.co.uk CQP Racquet Sr white sneakers - £270, c-qp.com Burlington LEEDS Knee-high Socks - £17, burlington.de

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STYLE — photoshoot

AlphaTauri Lightweight Blazer £239.95, alphatauri.com AlphaTauri Cropped Tapered Fit Trousers - £219.95, alphatauri.com AlphaTauri Seamless Knit Jumper - £219.95, alphatauri.com YATAY Irori Birch White Trainers - £240, yatayatay.com London Sock Company Cream Socks - £12, londonsockcompany.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

Casio GA-2100SKE-7AER “CasiOak” - £109, g-shock.co.uk

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STYLE — photoshoot

Hublot Big Bang Unico Camo Yohji Yamamoto - £18,900, hublot.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

Y-3 CH2 Sporty Seersucker Shorts – £300, adidas.co.uk Y-3 Classic Bomber Jacket £430, adidas.co.uk Y-3 Yohji Star off-white and black Ecru-Y3 sneakers £249.95, adidas.co.uk Burlington LEEDS Knee-high Socks - £17, burlington.de

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STYLE — photoshoot

Christopher Raeburn SI Quilted Gilet Olive - £175, raeburndesign.co.uk Christopher Raeburn SI Tee L/S Black - £59, raeburndesign.co.uk Christopher Raeburn Fleece Crew Black - £165, raeburndesign.co.uk Christopher Raeburn SI Jogger Olive - £95, raeburndesign.co.uk Palladium MONO CHROME Boots - £65, palladiumboots.co.uk Burlington LEEDS Knee-high Socks - £17, burlington.de

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STYLE — photoshoot

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 White Camo - £3,200, bellross.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

Carhartt WIP Camo Single Knee Pant - £115, carhartt-wip.com Carhartt WIP Hooded Panic Sweat - £95, carhartt-wip.com Palladium PAMPA HI ORGANIC Boots - £75, palladiumboots.co.uk London Sock Company Cream Socks - £12, londonsockcompany.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

Bulova Oceanographer “666” £469, uk.bulova.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

Levi’s® Vintage Clothing Bay Meadows Sweatshirt (blue) £120, levi.com Levi’s® Vintage Clothing 554™ Relaxed 80’s Jeans £210, levi.com Levi’s® Vintage Clothing Freaky Parka £225, levi.com

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Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Ultrablue - £11,300, zenith-watches.com

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STYLE — opener

Style 104/ The running label for rockstars 113/ New season essentials for real world re-entry

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STYLE — soaring success

Words: NICK CARVELL

SOAR IS THE RUNNING LABEL FOR ROCKSTARS Meet the man bringing rockstar sensibility (and tailoring) to the running scene

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STYLE — soaring success

OVER HIS THIRTY-YEAR career Tim Soar has designed furniture, made special effects models, dabbled in graphic design, been a successful DJ and shown his own womenswear line at London Fashion Week. He already has a CV that puts most of us to shame and yet, in 2015, he added another impressive arrow to his quiver: founding one of the coolest running brands out there, Soar. This begs the question: how does a man go from model-maker to marathon outfitter?

“I think my career has been lots of different ways of trying to do the same thing - make truly beautiful items,” says Soar when I call him at his studio near Old Street in East London. “What I mean by beautiful is something that does the job it is designed to do in the best way possible.

That can be a chair or a logo or a pair of running tights.”

Founded on the principle of providing highly functional clothing for runners, over the past five years Soar has become one of the most exciting and sought-after athletics labels on the British sporting scene. What sets it apart is that its technical prowess is combined with a rockstar style sensibility. From bold graphic patterns and highlighter-bright pops of colour, it’s a far cry from the racks on racks of plain black and navy kit you’d see from most sports brands. This cool vibe has not only won the label a legion of fans, but also attracted the buying teams of fashion forward retailers like Mr Porter, Browns, Matches Fashion and Ssense, who stock the label alongside high end brands like Burberry, Gucci and Saint Laurent.

“The whole look of Soar is based on what I feel I want to be running in,” says Soar. “If I spend one or two hours of my day running, that’s a big chunk of my life, so why the hell wouldn’t I want to look good? I figured others would feel the same. If you care about the way you look about going to the shops or heading out for a drink, surely you’ll want goodlooking clothes for your run too.”

It’s a long way from how he’d experienced the sport as a child. Having found little reward in cross country at school – “I saw it as an excuse to go and smoke fags outside the local shop.” – he got into running in a big way around 12 years ago when he wanted to break out of the unhealthy lifestyle he was leading as a

DJ. Having always been interested in the aesthetics of athletic kit (his eponymous fashion line often contained references to sportswear), Soar’s move into a fully fledged running line came with a commitment that he’d product test the items himself.

“Everything I make is cut in the same way as I would approach tailoring,” says Soar, “and tailoring is all about getting a good fit on the body while allowing mobility. If you cut a piece properly, as opposed to relying on stretch in your fabric to get it to fit closely, then you inherently have something that feels better on the body.”

“The mistake a lot of sports companies make is they don’t think about functionality of their products enough,” Soar continues. “If you have deep, profound functionality in your

Soar’s exciting blend of bold graphic patterns and highlighter-bright pops of colour separates them from bland competition, making it the perfect attire for when running solo through the desert

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STYLE — soaring success

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STYLE — soaring success

“My career has been different ways of trying to do the same thing - make truly beautiful items” Good looking clothes don’t begin and end on the high street according to Tim Soar; “If I spend one or two hours of my day running, that’s a big chunk of my life, so why the hell wouldn’t I want to look good?

products, the processes you have to go through to get there tend to lead to a beautiful product.”

Of course, the journey to a beautiful product can be a tricky one. With product testing comes revisions that can take months or even years: Soar’s marathon shorts took about a year and a half of personal product development before he was happy and, on top of that, the inner liner took another two months to get the pattern right. Sometimes it doesn’t even stop there.

“Sometimes after a piece goes to market, we keep wearing it and tweak even more minor things for new versions of the item,” says Soar. “You have to do that because it’s not possible for a third person to explain accurately what the full bodily experience of running in a garment is. You have to experience it yourself in different ways: when you’re tired, when you’re feeling fresh, when it’s raining.”

But this personal experimentation is what has gained it such a following in the running world. Soar’s inspiration comes not just from the kind of look he wants while he’s out running, but from the pieces that would help him get ever-better at the sport - inspiration that tends to hit him while he’s pounding the tarmac. Take the label’s Elite Session compression tights, born out of Soar’s need for decent gear to do interval training outdoors something that tends to be done by professional runners on indoor tracks, therefore not requiring added leg insulation from the elements. The problem is that when you run fast, tights tend to ride down and bunch up, so Soar designed a pair of superthin thighs with silicone grippers up the inside leg to stop them slipping. It’s a piece designed for a specific purpose that resonates with amateur runners – and today is one of the brand’s best-selling items.

“One of the real differences with Soar is that we design pieces just for running - so we can really focus on what’s needed for that particular sport,” says Soar. “My ideas for products come from a place of truth.

I’m not even at saturation point with our products - there’s still so much I want to create.” Rock on, runners.

Visit soarrunning.com

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STYLE — must-haves

It’s been over a year since the first lockdown kicked in and, boy, it certainly feels like it. However, as the government dangles the delicious carrot of reopening non-essential retail, bars and restaurants, we can dare to dream about getting our social lives back on track. Combine this with the promise of ever-longer, ever-warmer days on the horizon and it feels like a real time to celebrate.

There’s no better place to start than with your wardrobe, prepping it to impress all those friends we’ve missed socialising with offline.

Whether you’re looking forward to sipping a picante by the pool at Soho House or grabbing a table at your favourite bistro with friends, here are the new season items that’ll help ease you back into real life.

SMART TROUSERS WITH A BIT MORE GIVE

Thanks to Zoom, your legs probably haven’t been seen by anyone other than people in the park for the past few months. If you need a transition between your go-to joggers/shorts/pyjama bottoms and proper tailored trousers, look out for a pair of smart-casual slacks with a part-elasticated waist that’s both forgiving and comfortable.

edit: NICK CARVELL

New season essentials for real world reentry AS LOCKDOWN EASES AND WE TIPTOE TENTATIVELY BACK INTO POLITE SOCIETY, THESE ARE THE ITEMS THAT WILL HELP THE TRANSITION

L’ESTRANGE LONDON,

> The beauty of L’estrange London’s ‘24 Trouser’ is that, thanks to the waistband only being elasticated at the back, people are none the wiser from the front. With a tailored fit that tapers through the calf and a chic tab closure at the front, they’re the sort of lightweight smart trousers that are suitable for work and play. £125, LESTRANGELONDON.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

SUNSPEL,

© B Lesiuk

> Quite possibly the most perfect summer trouser out there, these drawstring slacks from sleek British label Sunspel are cut from a light fabric that provides all the breathability of linen with cotton mixed in for minimal creasing. £145, SUNSPEL.COM

WAX LONDON,

> Cut from floral jacquard fabric woven in France from recycled yarns, this eye-catching new iteration of Wax London’s ‘Kurt’ trousers is a great way to remind people you’ve been Zooming with that you still have a lower half. £90, WAXLONDON.COM

VILEBREQUIN,

> Famed for its swimwear, French beach brand Vilebrequin has now taken things below the knee with its new range of tailoredsilhouette trousers that combine a stretch fabric with an elasticated waist to ensure maximum summer comfort. £215, VILEBREQUIN.COM

“

© RENZE BEMELMANS

A great way to remind people you’ve been Zooming with that you have a lower half MR MARVIS,

> Available in one of the widest ranges of waist measurements and leg lengths, Mr Marvis’ trousers also come in a veritable rainbow of colours meaning that there’s not only a pair that’s perfect for your style sensibility, but also for your body type. £109, MRMARVIS.CO.UK

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STYLE — must-haves

CELEBRATION SHIRT

After the past year indoors, even a casual round with your mates at the pub will feel like a momentous event. Do it right by getting a shirt that’s extravagant, joyous and shows off your sheer joy at being allowed outside again - whatever the occasion. Thankfully, there’s plenty out there to choose from whatever your vibe.

SIR PLUS,

> There’s something about a boxy, light, Cuban collar shirt that just screams holiday mode. Combine that with an artfully eclectic print, such as this mosaic pattern created by the team at Sir Plus, and you’ve got instant abroad vibes. £110, SIRPLUS.CO.UK

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STYLE — must-haves

INDIGOCHINO BY SLOWEAR,

> Not only does this shirt look great (thanks to a print that recalls the traditional patterns used for Japanese kimonos), but it also does double duty for our unpredictable British weather. Cut from cotton, its relaxed fit and buttonless cuffs mean that this can work on its own while the sun’s shining or used as a light top-layer over a t-shirt should things take a turn for the chilly. £275, SLOWEAR.COM

CASABLANCA,

> We probably won’t be actually traveling to Italy anytime soon - but that doesn’t mean you can’t bring Italy to the UK. This joyously louche silk shirt from Paris-based label Casablanca features seasonal views of Lake Garda that’ll give a chest-based hit of Mediterranean sophistication. €650, CASABLANCAPARIS.COM

MR WOOD,

> London-based label Mr Wood is becoming known on the shirt scene for its bold prints on sustainablyminded viscose fabric - a silky material created from plant pulps. Of the current drop on offer, I’m a big fan of this midnight palm print, which holds the promise of good times far beyond sundown. £98, MRWOOD.LONDON

ALBAM,

> Usually famed for its minimalism, I had to do a double take when I saw this new season shirt from workwear Albam. With its graphic painterly print in zingy colours, it’s a summertime masterpiece - perfect with shorts or a pair of breezy pleated cotton trousers. £95, ALBAMCLOTHING.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

SWIM SHORTS

© DAREN CORNELL

You can bet that as soon as pools re-open, we’ll be first in line for a sun lounger. However, until that time happens, get a pair of shorts in your wardrobe suited for swimtime, but which can be used on dry land too. From bright colours to bold patterns, here are a few of my new season favourites.

OSMARI,

> Adapted for the beach, what makes Osmari’s ‘shorties’ notable is that they’re also designed for other situations too. With a bit of added stretch in the fabric and large zipped pockets for all your on-thego accoutrements, they’re just as appropriate for wearing to the gym, on the yoga mat or just catching some rays on your thighs while out and about. $62, OSMARI.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

OAS,

> Four a country with a distinctly chilly climate, Sweden sure does foster some great beachwear brands. Take Stockholm-based label OAS, founded by Oliver Adam Sebastian in 2010, which produces swim shorts with some of the most eclectic, cool prints I’ve ever seen: green tiger stripes, tie-dye, and these, which feel like they’ve been inspired by paper marbling. €69, OASCOMPANY.COM

ONIA,

> New York beach brand Onia has teamed up with Liberty on a selection of shorts featuring the London department store’s legendary floral fabric. And before you get nineties Hawaiian short flashbacks, take a look at this version, featuring hibiscus flowers on a black background. Far more Mapplethorpe than Maui. £179, ONIA.COM

MARDA,

> Fresh out of Copenhagen, recently launched swim label Marda crafts quick-drying shorts from ocean plastic. Seven re-used plastic bottles (chopped up, spun and reformulated into a highly technical fabric) go into each pair - even the packaging they come in is recycled. $100, MARDASWIMWEAR.COM

92

RUI,

> James Braddon founded Rui after he couldn’t find striped swim shorts that really fit his personal style - and, boy, has he committed to the genre. Now he makes some of the most deliciously colourful striped shorts around. This exuberant pair, aptly named ‘sunny side up’ can’t help but make you smile. £105, RUISWIMWEAR.COM

MR P,

> Since launching in 2017, menswear e-tailer Mr Porter’s in-house clothing line, Mr P, has gone from strength to strength. Despite erring on the minimal side mostly, when the line does get experimental with prints, they’re done with the sophistication the site is always associated with - and this midcentury, abstract floral print on its new season swimmer is no exception. £85, MRPORTER.COM

LOVE BRAND,

> Founded in 2010 by Oliver and Rose Tomalin, Love Brand’s USP is that it donates a percentage of revenue - not profit - from its shorts to helping save elephants and endangered species. To When the underline this commitment, line does get the seasonal prints reflect the experimental wildlife the founders are with prints, passionate about - case in they’re point, this all-new starfish done with print, launching in April. sophistication £120, LOVEBRAND.COM

“

TOM FORD,

> Designer Tom Ford is one of the menswear world’s rockstars, so it makes sense that his eponymous label would release one of the most rockstar pairs of swim shorts around. This darker take on leopard print feels as rebellious as it is rakish. £350, MRPORTER.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

SUNGLASSES

As we leave our computer screens and stagger, blinking, into the sunlight of the real world once again, your eyes might need some protection.

Or at least, that’s what I’m telling myself to justify a new pair of shades. I suggest you do the same.

KIRK ORIGINALS ,

> English shade-maker Kirk Originals first teamed up with New York tailor FE Castleberry on a collaborative pair of shades last year: a ballsy, amped-up tortoiseshell aviator frame fitted with light yellow lenses to make even the darkest winter day feel brighter. Only 15 pairs were made and they instantly sold out. Now the collab’s back with an added ebony frame/grey lens iteration, for those who like to live their summer days on the darker side. £225, KIRKORIGINALS.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

SERENGETI EYEWEAR,

> Inspired by the golden age of motoring (a fact you can take as literally as you want given that two of the models come with a gold frame), these Geary shades take the era’s excitement around technology and channel it into a little tech of their own. These sunglasses not only look great, but also come fitted with lenses infused with Spectral Control, which filters blue light to reduce blur and improves colour balance - a bit like looking at everything on an HD screen. £350, SERENGETI-EYEWEAR.COM

MOSCOT,

> You don’t keep a sunglasses company running for over a century without knowing a thing or two about what makes a pair of shades work.

Founded in 1915, New York opticals-maker Moscot is still bringing new designs to the table, such as this metal and acetate frame featuring green lenses and minimal, high brow bar. £305, MOSCOT.COM

“

With frames crafted from titanium and smoked lenses, these shades are as eyecatching as they are timeless

ACE & TATE,

> While Ace & Tate offer a wide variety of frame shapes, what I really love about the company is that they tend to offer up the kind of colours and fabrications on them that give options for the man who wants something a bit bolder. For example, these ‘Jack’ shades in a cool, striated green acetate with grey lenses.

FROM £100, ACEANDTATE.COM

BRIONI,

> Whether you’re enjoying tanning in it on the country’s south coast or squinting as it bounces off the ski-runs in the north, Italians know a thing or two about sun glare. So it makes sense that legendary Roman tailoring house Brioni produces some of the most versatile around. With frames crafted from titanium and smoked lenses, these shades are as eye-catching as they are timeless. £395, BRIONI.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

“

The frame takes its cues from black and white photobooth shots from the 1950s

THE REFERENCE LIBRARY,

> Inspired by some of the most stylish Hollywood actors of all time, The Reference Library launched last year with a small but perfectly curated selection of vintage-vibing shades. The squared-off Eddie frame takes its cues from black and white photobooth shots from the 1950s - but will look just as great in a selfie today, if you ask me. £395, THEREFERENCELIBRARY.CO.UK

WIRES,

> The aviator frame shape might be a stone cold classic, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be tweaked from time to time. Just-launched eyewear company Wires, who specialise in 3D printed bio-plastic rims and hingeless arms, has done just that by beefing up the shape and adding a zing of gold. £175, WIRESGLASSES.COM

TIME TO SUMMER-ISE YOUR FORMAL SHOES

> You might not be ready to go full-on flip flop yet, but the lighter, brighter weather begs for something lighter and brighter on your feet too - even if you’re keeping things smart. Whether slip-on or lace-up is your preference, suede is a great way to go. These navy blue suede brogues from Billy Ruffian are an excellent example. Cut from a material that celebrates that there’s no threat of rain on the horizon, the more casual colour is versatile with both onand off-the-clock attire. And, hey, if it was good enough for Elvis, it’s good enough for us. £150, BILLYRUFFIANSHOES.CO.UK

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FRONT — cult kits

THE

NIGERIA

COOLEST FOOTBALL SHIRTS

(HOME) 2018

Nigeria has good form when it comes to kits. The 1994 attempt with its African print is a collectors’ item and their 2020 offering is more than solid.

None however compare to their 2018 kit, which sold out almost instantly with enough back orders to keep Nike going for another few years. The green and black chevrons have made the home version a grail shirt among collectors and an iconic football print for everyone else.

OF ALL TIME Words:

Sam Kessler

FROM NIGERIA’S sell-out effort with Nike to the phenomenally well-named bruised banana regalia of Arsenal of old, football shirts are more than just a jersey, they’re a statement. Many of the greatest moments in football history have been defined as much by what the players are wearing as by the goals they scored. After all, a volley into the top corner just doesn’t look the same in dull shade of blue or plain white. Give us tie-dye, geometric shapes and splashes of colour that can be seen from the nosebleeds.

So, whether you’re a fan looking to represent or a collector hunting down your next grail shirt, these are the coolest football shirts of all time.

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FRONT — cult kits

MEXICO (HOME) 1998

Forget monochrome kits with a touch of patriotic colour here and there; for their 1998 World Cup effort, Mexico went all out with this phenomenal Aztec-inspired green number. The face rendered in shades of green and complimented with red and white to finish the colours of the flag paints an intimidating picture. It’s a shame we didn’t get to see it past the first round of knockouts; apparently it wasn’t intimidating enough to put off the Germans.

CLUB AMERICA (HOME) 1994

Gustavo Llanos is an inspiration to anyone that wants to ditch everything and dress as a bird at football matches.

While he’s very firmly a Colombia fan, that didn’t stop the 1994 Club América shirt riffing on those same Rio carnival vibes. With 2D wings draped across the shoulders and an eye-catching primary colourway, it’s about as loud as a stadium full of screaming South Americans.

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FRONT — cult kits

VERDY KAWASAKI (HOME) 1993

Honestly, it’s a coin toss whether we prefer the home or away kit in this set, with both using the same sunburst design just this side of psychedelia. But with away leaning more towards white, we’ve opted for the emerald green of the home version of Japanese team Verdy Kawasaki’s 1993 kit. Sure, they’re Tokyo Verdy nowadays, but the green’s still very much part of their kit, and this psychedelic offering is up there with the greats.

that makers Adidas revived “ It’s soiticonic for the 2019/2020 season

ARSENAL (AWAY) 1991

The JVC yellow on Arsenal’s away kit is every bit as iconic as their home red, usually with big blocks of yellow and navy blue. For 1991 though they took a different approach – one that Nigeria would be proud of – with zig-zagging lines breaking up the bright dandelion colour, leading to its ‘bruised banana’ nickname. It’s so iconic that makers Adidas revived it for the 2019/2020 season, if a little more subtle.

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FRONT — cult kits

FIORENTINA (HOME) 1998

Purple isn’t everyone’s colour but the most beautiful city in Italy seems to make it work – particularly with that Nintendo logo front and centre. It’s a glorious, royal colour complete with the city emblem on the shoulders. Sure, it’s slightly less sought after than the grail-level shirt with Super Mario on the front, but just like the holy grail of legend, there’s a good chance it doesn’t exist. This 1998 version does.

TOTTENHAM HOTSPUR (AWAY) 1994

Holsten Pils may be the degenerate beer of nightmares, but it makes for a seriously cool kit. It’s a looker but, for most Hotspurs fans, also has a special place in club history as the shirt worn by Jürgen Klinsmann when he scored his first goal for the team, after which the serial diver celebrated by, well, diving.

It’s an iconic football moment and an iconic football shirt… if you can pull off purple.

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FRONT — xxxxxxxx

NETHERLANDS (HOME) 1988

Despite only being worn for a grand total of five games, the Netherlands 1988 kit is still regarded as one of the best of all time. It’s not hard to see why. It wasn’t the only shirt that year to use the geometric pattern, but the combination of orange, white and black turned what had previously been a usually one-note kit into an instant winner. It also helps that the same could be said of the Dutch that year.

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FRONT — watch reviews

HANDS-ON WITH THE

CARL F. BUCHERER

© Fraser Vincent

ADAMIVI FULL CALENDAR

THE SPECS

• 39mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • CFB calibre 1966 with 42-hour power reserve • £3,200, carl-f-bucherer.com

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© Fraser Vincent

FRONT — watch reviews

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FRONT — watch reviews

Every time a new Carl F. Bucherer hits our shores I endeavour to try it on. They’re not a watchmaker I get incredibly excited about, but I’ve yet to be disappointed. In fact, when it comes to their latest release, it’s one that I’m genuinely considering investing in myself – and for once, it’s not a Manero; it’s the Adamivi Full Calendar.

A full calendar is exactly the same thing as a complete calendar or a triple calendar; it just depends who’s name is on the dial as to which terminology they use. It means it shows the date, here indicated around the edge of the dial; the day and month, shown through twin windows at 12 o’clock and a moon phase at six o’clock.

It basically has everything a perpetual or annual calendar does, minus the year, which is fine by me. If you need your watch to tell you the year, you’re either an unsuccessful time traveller or have just woken up from a coma. If the latter, don’t worry, you’ve not missed much.

This isn’t the first time we’ve seen a full calendar from Carl F. Bucherer, and not even the first using this movement as the CFB calibre 1966 was also used in the Manero Moonphase. In fact, the layout is exactly the same between the two. Yet while the Manero opts for a cool, retro racing kind of style, the Adamivi feels completely different.

The Adamivi is what I’d call a smart casual watch. The steel case feels nice and solid and the brushed finishing across the board is restrained and forgiving. At the same time, its 39mm sizing and gold indexes veer more towards eveningwear. As someone who’s insisted on shirts and jackets even throughout lockdown, it’s pretty perfect.

If there’s one downside to this particular full calendar layout, it’s the windows for day and month. They are incredibly small and make reading the lettering far harder than it needs to be. Sure, it keeps the elegant proportions of the dial and leaves room for that peripheral date, but I want legibility from my watch as a bare minimum.

Minor gripes aside, it is an incredibly handsome watch in both the black and silver dials. I’m a little split between the two dial variations though. I generally prefer the silver, which emphasises the brushed finish and trends closer towards the dressier end of the spectrum. The only downside though is that the day and month windows, already small, all but blend into the background.

Either way, I’d opt for bracelet over strap. Straps are fine and perhaps a bit more formal, but the key difference is that the case is slightly different between the two. The strap version is pretty standard with your usual, tapered lugs.

The bracelet on the other hand opts for a module that connects directly to the case, stripping the lugs away. The result is a charming, more vintage feeling watch that emphasises the bold bezel. It’s downright lovely.

There’s a lot of watch here for what is, compared to other full calendars out there, not a lot of money: £3,200 to be precise 107

All in all, there’s a lot of watch here for what is, compared to other full calendars out there, not a lot of money: £3,200 to be precise. That puts them in the same kind of realm as Montblanc, though I’d probably go for one of these over, say, a Montblanc Heritage or Star Legacy.

In fact, if you’re insisting on a full calendar, the Adamivi is a solid choice - no matter what you stack it up against. £3,200, carl-f-bucherer.com

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

© Fraser Vincent

• 40mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Ronda quartz movement • £255, uk.eone-time.com

HANDS-ON WITH THE

EONE BRADLEY

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© Fraser Vincent

FRONT — watch reviews

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FRONT — watch reviews

This is a bit of a strange one for me to be reviewing. I’m not saying I’m always a watchmaker’s target audience – I’m relatively sure Hublot and Richard Mille aren’t building watches with my diminutive, retroslanted tastes in mind – but this time it’s different. That’s because Eone’s audience – and indeed their entire concept – is so specific and so specifically not me. Eone make watches for the blind and sight-impaired.

I’ve always been fortunate to have good eyesight and aside from an inkling that I’ll soon need reading glasses (I blame all the lockdown screen time) it’s still good. However, great design is still great design. How a watch feels on my wrist and how usable it is as a timepiece are not inextricably linked to the sight-seeing quality of my optical orbs.

And so I went into this review with a different outlook than most of Eone’s customers – and honestly, I loved it.

I’m not about to start learning brail, but the Bradley was a far more satisfying watch than I expected it to be.

The sleek, minimal design of the watch is tactile futurism at its finest, a tone-on-tone ring of raised indexes on a crystalless dial. While that lack of crystal did take some getting used to visually, it does make perfect sense in how you read the watch.

Rather than hands, the minutes are told by a ball bearing that runs around the inner ring of the dial, while the hours are located on the outer edge of the case. You’re meant to read the watch with your fingers by judging where the ball is compared to the indexes, which are clear to the touch with longer indexes for three, six and nine, and a large triangle at 12.

Because it’s hidden over the edge of the case, I used my fingers all the time for the hours, but more often than not found myself reading the dial instead. I could do it – it’s actually incredibly intuitive – but I had to remind myself to do it. That’s not a downside of course, given how visuallyunique the Bradley is.

I tried out two different versions of the Bradley, a cobalt timepiece with silver indexes and a full steel version and honestly, there wasn’t much different between the two. The cobalt may as well be called black as even in direct light it was incredibly dark, just with a slight navy tint. I found myself leaning a little more heavily towards the monotone, but that was due to the incredibly comfortable mesh bracelet than any real aesthetic difference. They’re both cool.

Both sit on the wrist nicely thanks to the articulated lugs, set right at the bottom of the case to leave the caseband free for the hour indicator. It makes the watch look like its

Rather than hands, the minutes are told by a ball bearing that runs around the inner ring of the dial, while the hours are located on the outer edge of the case 111

sitting high on the wrist, but in reality its no thicker than your average timepiece.

The dimensions though do mean the crown is really low on the wrist and I needed to take it off to set. The flipside of that is that the Bradley uses a quartz movement, so there shouldn’t be any need to set it unless you’re hopping timezones, which none of us exactly are right now.

I really enjoyed wearing the Bradley. Like I said, it’s an odd one for me to be reviewing and I can’t say with any authority that it’s the perfect watch for the sight-impaired.

I can say that it looks fantastic, is a phenomenal concept and was the single most tactile watch I’ve ever worn.

For me, it’s no replacement for a traditional mechanical timekeeper, but if you are Eone’s target audience then rest assured that the Bradley doesn’t just work; it looks good doing it. £255, uk.eone-time.com

FRONT — fairway to heaven

© James Merrell

Just like a top end timepiece, golf is a discipline that requires precision, endurance and a little bit of flair. It’s a game full of diversity, with a vast range of courses and resorts in the UK and around the world that challenge you to improve your game. But these places aren’t just the best arenas for the sport, they’re also fantastic holiday destinations in their own right with awe inspiring scenery and sumptuous luxury on hand.

Let’s have a look at ten of the best golfing destinations at home and away that are equally good on the fairway as they are off of it.

Words:

Michael Sonsino

FAIRWAY TO HEAVEN THE MOST LUXURIOUS AND RELAXING GOLF RESORTS IN THE UK AND ABROAD 112

FRONT — fairway to heaven

H O M E : Growing up in the UK, chances are high that you weren’t that far from your nearest golf course; from quaint village courses to inner city innovations, great clubs and resorts can be found everywhere. So to become one of the best resorts in the country, they have to reach a level of excellence that few can match. Here are some that have succeeded.

When Gleneagles opened its doors in 1924, the countryside estate in the heart of Scotland was described as a ‘Riviera in the Highlands’

GLENEAGLES

Scotland is the home of golf so it’s little wonder that it’s also home to one of the most historic and regarded courses in the world, Gleneagles. The resort has a five-star hotel with every facility you could imagine and when it’s time to head to the fairway you have three to choose from: PGA Centenary, King’s and Queen’s.

With the resort’s Tee It Up offer you can book a night’s stay and a round of golf on any of the three courses for £625, but for a regal feel we recommend King’s.

1 hour from Edinburgh.

For more information about the Tee It Up offer, follow the link gleneagles.com/offers/tee-it-up/

STOKE PARK

Stoke Park not only sports a great course and clubhouse but is also familiar with film fans the world over, being only five miles from Pinewood studios. The Georgian mansion was the site of James Bond and Goldfinger’s infamous confrontation, and they even took time to tee up there as well. When the gentleman spy gives a place his approval, the luxury experience is all but guaranteed. The modern Pavilion boasts a top-notch spa with an Italian marble steam room, the likes of which Bond often found himself in, as well as 60 fitness classes per week.

“

The Georgian mansion was the site of James Bond and Goldfinger’s infamous confrontation, and they even took time to tee up there as well

1 hour from London.

To find out about booking an memberships click here stokepark.com

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FRONT — fairway to heaven

THE BELFRY

When it comes to Golfing history, one of the landmark courses has to be the Brabazon at The Belfry in Warwickshire.

It has hosted the Ryder Cup more times than any other course worldwide, giving it a legendary status thanks to plays like Sam Torrance’s putt to win the competition for Europe in 1985. The Cup is part of The Belfry’s DNA, giving its name to The Ryder Grill – one of the resort’s restaurants, where you can find locally sourced food of the highest quality including steak, chargrill, fish and, of course, Sunday dinners.

The Belfry has hosted the Ryder Cup more than any other course worldwide

2.5 hours from Edinburgh.

For more information about booking a round, click here thebelfry.com/golf/

BOVEY CASTLE

Set in the idyllic surroundings of Dartmoor National Park, Bovey Castle’s championship course offers a challenging round of golf for players of any handicap. If you decide to stay the night you can book a room inside the castle itself with views over the countryside and courtyard – the building has a neo-Elizabethan design that’s lavish and comfortable. By staying in the castle hotel you’ll have access to the indoor pool, spa and gym as well as being able to book Afternoon Tea at the Great Western Restaurant, which includes Devon specialties such as cream and scones.

4 hours from London.

To book a stay, find out more here boveycastle.com

Opened in 1930, Bovey Castle pairs a challenging 18 holes with beautiful scenery and a neoElizabethan castle

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FRONT — fairway to heaven

MOOR PARK

Moor Park is home to one of the most ostentatious and luxury filled clubhouses in the UK; the Mansion that dominates the landscape is Grade 1 listed and absolutely full of jaw dropping artworks and furniture. The course itself is also jaw dropping, nestled into the rolling landscape of Hertfordshire. Becoming a member is worth considering with seven day access to the Mansion clubhouse and preferential rates for the two golf courses designed by Harry Colt, as well as at 47 other Colt designed courses.

1 hour from London.

Learn more about memberships here moorparkgc.co.uk/membership

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Moor Park was crowned Golf Club of the Year at the Club Mirror Awards 2019

The course itself is also jaw dropping, nestled into the rolling landscape of Hertfordshire A W A Y : While golf may have been born in the UK, over the years it has cemented itself a strong position as an international sport. Meaning there are many amazing golf resorts to be found around the world in Europe, the Middle East, Asia, America and beyond. While we can’t just pop over to them for a quick round, a visit to any of these places is sure to create some of your favourite golfing memories.

SENTOSA

The Singapore based club might be less well-known outside of golf circles, but in recent years Sentosa’s popularity and position as a top golfing location has exploded. It won multiple awards in 2020 including World’s Best Eco-Friendly Golf Facility for its drive towards a sustainable game. It’s also the first club in the world to sign the UN’s Sports for Climate Action Initiative, as well as being home to Singapore’s Best Course three years running.

The clubhouse offers a diverse selection of eating options ranging from Pan-American to Japanese, in keeping with Singapore’s immense cultural diversity.

Singapore Find out more about their membership plans here sentosagolf.com/membershipplans

Not only does Sentosa offer an awardwinning course, but is also supporting a greener future as part of the UN’s Sports for Climate Action Initiative

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© Image: Production 54

ADARE MANOR Hopping across the Irish Sea you can find Adare Manor, which features one of the most technologically advanced courses in the UK or Ireland, with a SubAir Aeration system built into the

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Adare Manor features one of the most technologically advanced courses in the UK or Ireland

course to ensure perfect conditions.

After your game you can relax at the award-winning Carriage House restaurant which radiates Irish charm and simple comfort, serving locally sourced produce such as Dublin Bay prawns and Irish beef, expertly cooked. It’s a refined establishment with Art-Deco stylings ideal for an evening tipple while exchanging stories from the green.

2.5 hours from Dublin.

For more information and to make a reservation follow the link adaremanor.com/ carriage-house

TERME DI SATURNIA

The golf course at Terme di Saturnia in Italy is GEO certified, meaning it exists in harmony with the natural wildlife that lives alongside the fairways. The result is a rustic course that’s breathtakingly beautiful, emphasising the Tuscan landscape and environment, including the natural hot springs. You can even enjoy a swim in the hot springs at the hotel, which has natural health benefits such as boosting your body’s antioxidants and exfoliating the skin, a fact that means it is used as an active ingredient in skin treatments. Healthy and environmentally friendly?

Sounds like a hole-in-one.

2 hours from Rome For more information, click here termedisaturnia.it/en/golf/

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© Image: Jack Hardy

After a day on the green, players can relax in Limerick’s first Michelin Star restaurant - The Oak Room at Adare Manor

FRONT — fairway to heaven

TERRA BLANCHE

Terra Blanche is one of the most acclaimed golf resorts in continental Europe, with two championship courses located within striking distance of the south coast of France.

Surrounding the courses is a gorgeous forest, making them seem secluded and the perfect spot to get away from it all. You can stay in the five-star hotel or their suites and villas with residential options. The two courses reward precision, making them staple ports of call for tournaments like the Ladies European Tour Access. La Roue in particular hosts the first stage of that competition every year.

2 hours from Marseille Find out how to book a stay or a round of golf here terre-blanche.com/en/

Nestled on the south coast of France, Terra Blanche offers two tree lined courses in an idyllic setting. Similarly, Pärnu Bay (below) in Estonia has championship standard courses in stunning surroundings

PÄRNU BAY GOLF LINKS Pärnu Bay is a major player in putting the Baltic region on the golf map, set on the absolutely gorgeous coastline of Estonia.

The way the course has been designed makes it feel like a natural part of the

environment; a combination of sandy dunes and pools of water that are not only beautiful but also offer challenging gameplay. There is also a multi-award winning clubhouse that offers a 360° view of the course and the sea as well as being equipped with a pro shop and

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refreshment facilities. The Eagle restaurant offers a selection of local goods and seafood with a distinctly Nordic twist.

2 hours from Tallinn For more information, click here parnubaygolf.com/

FRONT — XXXXXX

MOTOCADDY M-TECH ELECTRIC GOLF TROLLEY Carrying a full set of clubs around for 18 holes has never been easy, so the electric trolleys from Motocaddy are a lifesaver. The latest model, the M-TECH, clips onto your golf bag carrying it around the course after you, with nine speed settings to match your perfect walking pace. It also has an integrated LCD touchscreen and Smartphone connectivity, which can calculate course distance, score tracking and shot measurement. It’s a weight off your back, letting you think about the important things. £1299 available from April, motocaddy.com

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When the tiniest error can result in disaster, stability matters

TOP GOLF TECH TO REDUCE YOUR HANDICAP There are a thousand and more things to think about while you’re on the golf course, not least which club you need to use next. So any gadgets, gear and accessories you can use to improve your game and make life of the fairway easier can only be beneficial in that crucial moment when focus becomes key.

Whether it’s a method of training at home or cutting-edge gear you can use hole-after-hole these are some of the best golf gadgets to help reduce your handicap.

BETTINARDI STUDIO STOCK SERIES The putter specialist Bettinardi was established in 1998 by Robert Bettinardi, an innovative designer who popularised milled clubs by using jewellery grade equipment to make them more precise than ever before. The brand also developed arm-lock putter technology for a more stable putting experience and when the tiniest error can result in disaster, stability matters. The 2021 Studio Stock Series is a range of putters that feature a range of their best innovations and styles.

2021 Studio Stock Series £450 per club, available from bettinardi.com

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FRONT — golf tech

TRACKMAN 4 LAUNCH MONITOR

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If you want to get serious with some pro-level gear, the TrackMan 4 is for you. It’s the top end of golf launch monitors, measuring every conceivable variable regarding your swing. It uses Dual Radar Technology for maximum data quality and pick up rate and it can even register where on the club head you strike the ball without the need for additional markers.

With all this information at your fingertips I challenge you not to improve.

With all this information at your fingertips I challenge you not to improve

GOLF SWING SYSTEMS EXPUTT PUTTING SIMULATOR It’s not always possible to make it to a golf course when you want to, as the last year has taught us, so the ability to practice from home is essential. The Exputt Putting Simulator is easy to use and the camera plugs directly into your TV – meaning anywhere you have a TV can instantly become your practice green. It uses a highspeed camera to track your putt and calculate an accurate response in any number of weather and course conditions. £549 available from golfswingsystems.co.uk

£17,928, available from golfswingsystems.co.uk

GARMIN APPROACH Z80 LASER RANGE FINDER

GARIA GOLF CART For the ultimate course-side comfort, you can’t go wrong with investing in a golf cart and the Garia is one of the most versatile around. It’s a chic and stylish little vehicle with multiple options including an inbuilt icebox and all the club and ball storage you could need. It’s powered by an efficient AC motor with a max speed of 19mph so you can get around the course at a fair nip. It’s your all in one personal transport, caddy and food storage device. €13,999 (plus optional extras) available from garia.com

There are so many gismos out there that measure your swing and game that it can be more than a bit overwhelming – whatever happened to grabbing a range finder and eyeballing it?

Well, the Approach Z80 is the most accurate laser range finder on the market, boasting more than 41,000 course overlays and accuracy within 10” of the flag up to 320m. It also has a PlaysLike Distance feature to account for changes in elevation for that perfect shot. £579.99 available from garmin.com

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Anywhere you have a TV can instantly become your practice green

FRONT — tommy fleetwood

WORDS:

SAM KESSLER

TOMMY FLEETWOOD WE CHAT TO THE BRITISH GOLFING STAR ABOUT CONNECTED WATCHES, THE RYDER CUP AND WHETHER HE’LL ACTUALLY WIN A MAJOR…

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FRONT — tommy fleetwood

THE PAST 12 MONTHS haven’t been great for sport. Footballers were playing to empty stadiums, F1 racers streaming past eerie, empty stands and most sportsmen were stuck just trying to keep in shape without leaving the house. For British golf star Tommy Fleetwood however, it’s all pretty much back to normal already.

“When we started playing again [after lockdown], I realised that as golfers, we are lucky to be able do our job again! We are playing a tournament and living in relative normalcy and carrying on. In a sense, there might be no crowds, but we are on a golf course playing like we have always done. A lot of people don’t have that opportunity at the moment and I

Tommy Fleetwood is still chasing his first major win, but helped Europe lift the Ryder Cup in 2018

“If I can keep that baseline of consistent golf and keep playing well, then the extra wins will come.

I feel like consistency is my thing” 124

think knowing how lucky we are is so important. To appreciate that and to know what your real life is at times, I think is really important. Golf is my work, it’s my daily job and I play golf to earn a living, but it’s also my passion, my dream and my enjoyment.”

Like pretty much every recognisable sportsman out there, Fleetwood’s found himself with a sponsor for his wrist, none other than TAG Heuer. Sure, Rolex might dominate most of the clocks in tournament golf along with guest spots from the likes of Omega, but TAG Heuer at least have more synergy than their collectors liking a few rounds on the links: their connected golf watch.

“I love wearing this watch both on and off the course,” lauds Fleetwood. “The features are really well thought out, making the game more precise and I can’t think of a golfer whose game wouldn’t benefit from it. I really enjoy the distance shot feature, I see how my drive is performing on the golf course considering the real conditions I am playing in, the timing of this has worked perfectly for me as I’ve been testing my new clubs. It has played a big part in my recent practices and tests.”

For Fleetwood, that practice is perhaps more important this year than ever before. Not that he’s not one of the best names in the sport, it’s just that for whatever reason his skill has yet to translate into a major win, to the point where he’s generated parody songs on the subject. If you’re a golf fan, look up Sam Harrop.

“Like anybody, I have my frustrations when things are not going my way or when I feel like I could be doing better.

But I have had a few years of really consistent golf and I think consistency is key to winning. If I can keep that baseline of my consistent golf and keep playing well and keep pushing, then the extra wins will come. I feel like consistency is my thing.”

Most golf pundits are pretty much in agreement with Fleetwood there. Given his past games, it seems just a matter of time before he nabs an overdue major – particularly if his performance in the last Ryder Cup is anything to go by.

“We were the last group out in the morning session at the Ryder Cup -

FRONT — tommy fleetwood

“I really enjoy the distance shot feature, I see how my drive is performing on the golf course considering the real conditions I am playing in... It has played a big part in my recent practices and tests.”

Rolex might domiate most of the clocks in tournament golf, but Fleetwood has chosen TAG Heuer as a sponsor

Europe had already lost the first three matches and there was me and Francesco out on the course with all square with three to play and I think I birdied 15 and 16, and 16 was one of my most memorable putts in my career. I was very unexperienced, it was my first Ryder Cup, but I remember thinking ‘thank goodness I pulled through’ – and I pulled through and managed to help those two putts. This was an amazing moment for me.”

So, for those of us with a few quid earmarked for the betting office, when exactly does Fleetwood think he will win his first major?

“Hopefully my next ten years will be my biggest ten years with many more Ryder Cups because that is such a special event. I am at a very good spot in my life now. My son Franklin is three and a half, I am married, I am well settled in so many ways off the course. I have got 11 years of experience under my belt, so hopefully these will actually help achieve the things that I have dreamed of and the things I expect for myself. You never know what is going to happen, so I just take it as it comes. The Open is always the one that brings the most joy to me because it is the one tournament I could choose to win and feel very comfortable with the conditions. I am not saying that is my best chance but that is definitely the one I would choose. I always feel like when Majors come around, it brings the best out of me.”

The Open Championship will be teeing off on Thursday 15th July at Royal St. George’s Golf Course. For more information and to book tickets, visit theopen.com.

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FRONT — golf watches

TAG HEUER GOLF Tag Heuer is the biggest high-end watchmaker that also produces connected golf watches using the same level of precision and care as their other horological creations. This is for the golfer that thinks style on the course is an important part of the game, afterall you can’t discount the confidence boost that feeling good on the fairway can give in a crucial swing.

This is the closest to haute horology that a connected watch has ever got. The

45mm case is made from titanium and it comes with a unique white and green sports strap that further emphasises the golf aesthetic.

The OLED, touchscreen display has multiple functions, which includes the awesome ability to display a large range of Tag Heuer dials inspired by some of their most famous timepieces as well as a range of golf exclusive dials – meaning that you can customise the watch to suit any outfit.

But this is not a case of style over substance and it has some great utility on the fairway. 3D course mapping, score card updates, statistics, shot and drive tracking and even club recommendations are all features available through using the Tag Heuer Golf in conjunction with the dedicated app that can synch with your smartphone. £2,100, availbe from tagheuer.com/gb/en/tag-heuerconnected/golf.html

THE BEST

CONNECTED GOLF WATCHES Dedicated golf watches are the most versatile, technologically advanced and useful equipment that you can bring onto a golf course. Picking one up should definitely be high on your list of priorities once you’ve sorted out your clubs and memberships. However, the world of connected watches is a completely different landscape to that of haute horlogerie, it’s dominated by different brands that you may not be as familiar with.

So where do you even start? Not every golfer plays the same way and not every golf watch does the same things, so you need to decide what it is you’re looking for from your connected timepiece. We can help with that – here are three of our favourite golf watches, each of which will give you a unique golf experience suited to your preferences.

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FRONT — golf watches

SHOTSCOPE V3 Out of the three golf watches we’re taking a look at this is by far the cheapest, by several orders of magnitude. The Shotscope V3 sacrifices all the luxury components, such as the titanium cases and interesting strap designs seen on the other watches, for pure golf utility and information tracking. It’s for players who seriously care about lowering their handicap, almost to the exclusion of everything else.

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The watch comes with 16 tracking tags that clip easily into the handle of your club so that the watch can monitor every nuance of your swing to provide the most accurate data possible. It can analyse 100 different statistics, including distance to hazards and shot plotting to ensure that you have all the information you could ever want at your fingertips.

It can also intergrate with a number of free golf apps for your phone, allowing you to

use the software you’re most comfortable with, whereas more expensive watches may require subscriptions to specific apps.

The styling of the watch isn’t terribly exciting but that’s to be expected. The 39x34mm rectangle case is the smallest of these offerings, which may actually be a benefit, making it more comfortable over the course of an 18-hole game. £209.99 available from shotscope.com/uk/ products/gps/v3/

The watch can monitor every nuance of your swing to provide the most accurate data possible

GARMIN MARQ GOLFER The MARQ model modern tool watch from Garmin is one of the most versatile timepieces on the market and can be specialised in many ways.

Obviously we’re focusing on the golf version but there are models for driving, athletics and adventuring.

That versatility translates into the fact that this is an excellent mid-way point between style and performance.

It has a high-tech appearance with green and black as the dominant colour and a nylon, Jacquard-weave strap that feels like it’s straight from the Matrix. So it’s cool while still blending in with the colour palette of a golfing green. Just like the Tag Heuer, this piece has a titanium case, albeit at an even larger 46mm diameter, making this a fair monster of a wristwatch.

However, there’s good reason for that extra size. Garmin are at the forefront of wearable tech with dozens of specialised gadgets for health monitoring, sports tracking and GPS functions as well as many others, all of which are combined into a single accessory in the MARQ Golfer. The amount of options available makes this a great all-round connected timepiece for the player who wants to do a bit of everything. £1,699.99, available from buy.garmin.com/en-GB/ GB/p/700437

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© Images: Gary Margerum

FRONT — cafe racers

Words:

Simon de Burton

CAFÉ RACERS

Café racers tend to be stripped-down British-made road bikes fitted with dropped handlebars, rear-set footrests, and plenty of polished aluminium

FROM STRIPPED-BACK POWER TO INTENSE CUSTOM CREATIONS, SIMON DE BURTON STEERS US THROUGH THE HIGH-OCTANE HISTORY OF CAFÉ RACERS

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© Image: Bike Shed Motorcycle Club / BikeShedMoto.com

FRONT — cafe racers

The Ace Café (left) opened in 1938 as a 90-seat truck stop, but soon became a renowned meeting point for bikers who spawned café racer culture in England

One of my favourite motorcycling books is called ‘Ace Times - speed thrills and tea spills, a cafe and a culture.’ It charts the history of the now world-renowned Ace Cafe on London’s North Circular Road, a place I would occasionally ask my long-suffering mother to drive me to back in the seventies when I was a bike-mad schoolboy.

In those days, the Ace was a sorry sight having been abandoned to dereliction after shutting-down in 1969 - but I still liked to look at it, because I knew a bit about its history.

The Ace first opened back in 1938 as a 90-seater truck stop, but post-war became the most famous meeting point for bikers in the whole of south east England and proved to be intrinsic to the birth of a whole new genre of motorcycle: the so-called ‘cafe racer’.

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Built largely by tearaway rockers, these were stripped-down, British-made road bikes fitted with dropped handlebars, rear-set footrests, polished aluminium racing fuel tanks and selfish single seats - although it was acceptable to eschew the latter in favour of more crumpetfriendly pillion accommodation.

Unconstrained by the tiresome bureaucracy of today, owners would race one another up and down suitably unsuitable public roads (usually) with impunity, sometimes from cafe to cafe but always with the aim of cracking the magic ‘ton’ - ie 100 mph - while dressed in the standard rocker uniform of a crossover leather jacket, denim jeans and high top boots, sometimes with a pair of off-white ‘seaman’s socks’ rolled neatly over the tops.

FRONT — cafe racers

That same appetite for nostalgia has not only led to the widespread return of the cafe racer motorcycle, but its elevation to a true art form industry has grown, and now numerous constructors design and create ‘builds’ that are often of staggering quality.

One of the keys to a modern day cafe racer (we’ll use the term in its broadest sense) is not only that it should look good, but that it should also be usable, practical and reliable.

Popular starting points are the modern-day Triumph twins built from 2001 on, air-cooled BMW twin cylinder machines of the seventies, eighties and nineties and classic Japanese favourites such as Honda’s CB750 and Yamaha’s SR500 and W650.

The fact that many older bikes are, literally, stripped of their factory parts in pursuit of the pared-down, individual look that is the crux of a good cafe racer is often regarded as sacrilege among

traditional collectors. This is leading to a shortage of original bikes, causing values of those that remain to rise dramatically and, paradoxically, leaving builders to seek-out alternative models to work on.

Perhaps the greatest irony of all, however, is that mainstream manufacturers have all but been left behind by the cafe racer boom. The need to meet worldwide construction and safety standards means they can’t build anything too radical, so have had to resort to offering relatively tamelooking customs or creating catalogues of after-market extras to enable buyers to make their bikes their own.

But the results are never quite as good as a real, scratch-built special pieced together through love, imagination..... and long nights spent in a cold shed.

© Image: Gary Margerum

Cranial protection, if worn at all, would consist of a woefully inadequate, cork-lined ‘pudding basin’ crash helmet that was teamed with a pair of ex-RAF flying goggles.

It might just be coincidence, but the Ace’s closure came in the same year as the arrival of the first Japanese ‘superbike,’ the Honda CB750, an off-the-shelf rocket which made the home-tuned, British-built Nortons, BSAs and Triumphs of the cafe racers seem slow and unreliable. And with that, enthusiasm for modified bikes quietly petered out.

But throttle forward to 2001 and motorcycle-loving entrepreneur Mark Wilsmore steps in to save a vital part of Britain’s two-wheeled heritage by rebuilding and re-opening the Ace Cafe which, fuelled by the world’s apparently insatiable appetite for nostalgia, has become both an internationally recognised tourist attraction and an even more popular haunt for motorcyclists of all tastes and creeds than it was ‘back in the day’.

That same appetite for nostalgia has not only led to the widespread return of the cafe racer motorcycle, but its elevation to a true art form.

As with most things these days, the Internet has given cafe racer culture a turbo boost, with builders, buyers, dealers and enthusiasts sharing their favourite machines with the world on social media. (If you’re new to the scene and want somewhere to begin a potentially endless journey in search of ‘what’s out there,’ bikeexif.com is probably the best place to start).

Additionally, modern-day manufacturing has enabled a burgeoning of bolt-on bits designed to transform standard motorcycles into one-offs and - most importantly - the ‘lifestyle’ aspect of owning a cool-looking machine has attracted moneyed buyers (many middle-aged) who have serious cash to splash on bespoke builds.

But in its modern sense, the term ‘cafe racer’ is merely one niche within a broad range of custom motorcycle genres that includes the bobber, the brat, the scrambler and the desert sled (to name but a few). These are the basic styles out of which a multi-million dollar global

A café racer’s style is typically a crossover leather jacket, denim jeans and high top boots, which is paired with a bold enthusiasm for speed on the open road

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FRONT — cafe creams

BMW R NINET URBAN GS In a bid to jump on the cafe racer bandwagon back in 2014, BMW introduced its retro-look R nineT which quickly caught the eye of some of the world’s top custom builders due to its ‘blank canvas’ potential. There are currently five variations on the RnineT model, one of the best of which is the Urban GS - Edition 40 Years which marks 40 years of BMW GS off-road bikes From £13,965 bmw-motorrad.com

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cafe Words:

Simon de Burton CLASSIC CAR AND BIKE ENTHUSIAST SIMON DE BURTON DREAMS OF WHAT’S POSSIBLE ON TWO RETRO-INFLUENCED WHEELS WITH THE HELP OF SOME OF THE MOST CREATIVE CUSTOM BUILDERS OUT THERE

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TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE BOBBER

The term ‘bobber’ dates back to post-war America and the early days of motorcycle customisation, when enthusiasts would buy ex-War Department Harley-Davidsons and strip them down for a minimalist look. Triumph’s effort attempts to capture the style with fat tyres, spoked wheels, slash-cut exhausts and a ‘floating’ seat. Unlike those WD Harleys, however, the Triumph benefits from luxuries such as cruise control and triple disc brakes. From £11,850, triumphmotorcycles.co.uk

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FRONT — cafe creams

UNTITLED MOTORCYCLES TRIUMPH THRUXTON R ‘GOLDEN TOUCH’

London-based Untitled Motorcycles has grown to become one of the best known custom builders in both Europe and the UK. This Triumph Thruxton R was brought to Untitled fresh from the showroom floor by an owner who wanted something more interesting than the factory bike - so Untitled commissioned a £4,000 pair of bespoke wheels, minimised all switchgear and instruments, swapped the standard handlebars for racing clip-ons and added ‘drag pipes’ to unleash more power and enhance the exhaust note. The job was finished-off with a hand-made headlamp cowl and single seat unit and retro-cool paintwork. untitledmotorcycles.com

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This must be the only custom motorcycle to have been inspired by... fishing

VTR CUSTOMS WILLOUGHBY 65

This must be the only custom motorcycle to have been inspired by... fishing. The Willoughby 65 from Zurich’s VTR Customs is based on a 1982 BMW R65 entirely re-worked with a highly tuned engine, altered frame and suspension, and minimal switchgear and instrumentation. It also has a bespoke ZeitZone watch head integrated into the fuel tank and carrying points for a 1960s boat paddle and a 50s fishing rod. The bike is named after Roger Willoughby, the character played by Rock Hudson in the 1964 angling comedy Man’s Favorite Sport. vtr-customs.com

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© Images: THOMASW

FRONT — cafe creams

DEUS CUSTOMS MOTO GUZZI WTS

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Deus Ex Machina has become an international retail brand with a cult following

In the 14 years since it was established as a custom bike builder in Camperdown, Australia, Deus Ex Machina has become an international retail brand with a cult following (and recently became an official partner of Breitling watches). Custom motorcycle builds are still at the heart of the business, however, as demonstrated by this beautifully conceived Moto Guzzi. Based on a well-worn, 1980s T3 tourer, it was transformed into the sleek Westlake Tagand Special cafe racer through the use of a blend of apparently incongruous parts that range from a Manx Norton bikini fairing to BSA exhaust pipes, a Dresda Triton seat unit and Porsche paint. deuscustoms.com

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CULTURE — california dreaming

When we think of the word ‘Penfolds’ our mind takes us to one of the most beloved and cherished Australian wine brands to grace our glasses. At some point in our lives, we’ve all had a Penfolds moment. Their vast yet qualityfirst wine selection has ensured there’s something for everyone’s palate and they’ve spent decades creating a multitude of mouth-watering delights across white, red and rose to sparkling and stickies from the wine oasis of Australia. This month, however, a new kind of light gleams across their portfolio as they introduce a project that has been more than 20 years in the making. Hailing from the Golden State of California but with a unique Aussie twist, this could very well be the most exciting release they’ve ever launched.

PENFOLDS’ NEW CALIFORNIAN COLLECTION SAVOURING EVERY LAST DROP OF THE HEMISPHERE-CROSSING COLLECTION FROM THE WINE OASIS OF AUSTRALIA WORDS:

AIDY SMITH

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The ‘Californian Collection’ intertwines a love-story between the Northern and Southern Hemispheres of the world. It all began in 1998 when a series of heritage vine cuttings were taken from some of Penfolds’ most esteemed vineyards in South Australia, Kalimna and Magill Estate, before being planted in California. Over the next 20 years they were meticulously watched, tested and tasted until a happy winemaking team gave the nod for this project to finally evolve and in doing so look across the breadth of California from Napa and Sonoma to Paso Robles and beyond. The beginning of a new age of Penfolds began.

This exciting evolution has been led by the groups renowned winemaking team - Peter Gago, Steph Dutton and Andrew Baldwin.

Having been fortunate enough to sit down with Chief Winemaker, Peter Gago on a handful of occasions, you can’t help but be mesmerized by every word he speaks. The love and passion for what he does flows from each syllable and embodies a true testament to why these wines are so incredible.

This isn’t Penfolds’ first foray away from the Aussie plains either, just a few years ago the wine pioneers teamed up with Thienot to launch a collection of irresistible champagnes.

The major difference here is that this new project is a sole Penfolds venture and furthermore this is one of the only projects with such meaning that has dared to blend wines from two different countries. Yes, you read that correctly - some of these wines are a direct blend from Australia and California - and that is bloody exciting.

There are four wines within the Penfolds range, each with a distinct personality, meaning and profile.

CULTURE — california dreaming

BIN 704 NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018 This exciting release aims to redefine Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon through the distinct Penfolds lens, taking into account their unique winemaking style that has set them apart for generations. A silk-like texture is immediately noticeable due to the French barriques used during maturation. The name was decided as this wine embodies the same elements, yet is thousands of miles apart from its sister Bin 407 in Australia.

A comforting savoury aroma erupts from the glass, reminiscent of cab-aged carpaccio. Wild herbs waft in the air before being overtaken by a black forest gateau and freshly cracked dark chocolate. This wine is dripping with dark fruits, confirmed by the palate with dark brambles and meadow fruits. Silky smooth in style, dark chocolate almonds and spicy oak intertwine, creating a beautiful velvety finish.

The view across Penfolds’ Diamond Mountain Vineyard

Grape Varieties: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Region: Napa Valley Alc: 14.5% Aged: 16 months in French Oak RPP £60.00, Magnum RRP £125 Stockists: Berry Brothers & Harvey Nichols

BIN 600 CALIFORNIA CABERNET SHIRAZ 2018 Bin 600 is linked to the very beginnings of Penfolds’ venture into the soils of California. In 1998 a variety of heritage selection vine cuttings were transported from notable Penfolds vineyards to the Camatta Hills vineyard (previously known as Creston 600 Ranch). In tribute, they decided to name this wine after the original title of the land, serving as a reference point to where everything began.

Interestingly, grapes from the original 1998 Paso Robles plantings find their way into this delightful cabernet sauvignon, shiraz blend alongside key plots from Napa and Sonoma.

An assortment of warm and inviting nutmeg, clove spices and rosemary waft across the nose, embraced by espresso, early grey and blackberry jam.

Upon tasting you’re hit by a black pepper blackberry and chocolate, dried dates and liquorice. A smooth texture and there’s a radiating finish of cocoa and spices.

Grape Varieties: 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Shiraz Region: Napa Valley, Sonoma, Paso Robles Alc: 14.5% Aged: 16 months in American Oak RPP £45.00, Magnum RRP £100.00 Stockists: Berry Brothers & Harvey Nichols

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CULTURE — california dreaming

Words simply cannot do this justice. My first sip was one of those rare emotional moments we sometimes find ourselves experiencing

BIN 149 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018 This is where things begin to get really exciting. The Bin 149 was produced after 20 years of sourcing some of the most impressive vineyard blocks within the northern hemisphere. This journey took them to the heart of Napa Valley. Taking the same benchmark of quality from some of their most impressive South Australian cabernet vineyards, the blend was bound, and magic occurred. The name 149 refers to the percentage of South Australian cab that was meticulously woven into the final blend. A grand total of 16 months in French oak and American oak add to the truly distinct character of this wonder.

Cranberries, espresso and ginger mingle alongside baking spices, green olive and cola before the palate takes over. Menthol, cedar and sandalwood all make an appearance alongside a bright rich red and dark fruit medley. There is an eruption of energy going on in this bottle that will only continue to tame as time goes on. Classically Penfolds, yet structurally different.

You can’t help but take a moment to really let this sink in.

BIN 98 QUANTUM CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018 The pinnacle of this collection exists within this bottle and by god it does not disappoint.

Penfolds Quantum Bin 98 is a nod to the 20-years of exploration from the moment those South Australian vines touched down on Californian soil. The emblem of this love-story could not be more distinct, yet all the while mark that true Penfolds stamp we’ve come to adore. This powerful expression showcases a variety of incredibly small parcels from the iconic estates of Napa Valley cabernet and pedigreed shiraz from Southern Australia. The two stand as allies, side by side, embracing their strengths and embodying a wine style we have only dreamed to one day taste. Words simply cannot do this justice. My first sip was one of those rare emotional moments we sometimes find ourselves experiencing.

Flourishing in blueberry, blackberry and brambles on the nose with a touch of violet, the texture is equally balanced and harmonious.

This wine is undeniably Penfolds at every turn.

Dark brambles, brown sugar, smoky slate and a kiss of vanilla oak erupt across the tongue as you can’t help but wanting to have another sip to see how it has continued to evolve with each minute that goes by. The final chord is struck with a smoky dark chocolate spice that seems to go on and on.

Grape Varieties: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Regions: Napa Valley & Southern Australia Alc: 14.5% Aged: 16 months in French oak and American oak

Grape Varieties: 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Shiraz Regions: Napa Valley & South Australia Alc: 14.5% Aged: 16 months in American oak and French oak RPP £545.00, Magnum RRP £1,190 Stockists: Berry Brothers & Harvey Nichols

RPP £125.00, Magnum RRP £275 Stockists: Berry Brothers & Harvey Nichols

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FRONT — spring sips

A Sip to Celebrate Spring The warmer months are coming and, if that weren’t enough to raise a glass, lockdown measures are also gradually being lifted. Boris Johnson may be looking forward to a pint in a pub garden, however, we prefer the thought of a freshly made cocktail or two, particularly backed by a fantastic gin. So while award-winning Welsh Wind have the gin aspect of that covered, they have worked with mixologist Owen Williams - @my_cocktail_bible – to create a pair of drinks to toast spring.

Cheers!

SPICED GIN MOJITO Switch out the often overly sweet rum in your mojito for something a little more botanical and, dare we say, grown up in this take on the fresh, aromatic mojito. With a dash of cinnamon syrup, it’s a nuanced take on a summer classic.

RECIPE

• In The Welsh Wind Signature Style Gin - 50ml • Whole Lime • Cinnamon Syrup - 12.5ml • Mint - 6 Leaves • Aromatic Bitters 2 Dashes • Mint Sprig Garnish

“

METHOD

Roll the lime, cut into 8 pieces, add to your glass and muddle. Clap the mint leaves between your hands to release the flavour, then add to your glass. Pour in the gin, syrup and bitters then fill with crushed ice.

Pull the cocktail through with a barspoon to mix and garnish with a mint sprig.

With a dash of cinnamon syrup, it’s a nuanced take on a summer classic

RECIPE

SPICED WELSH BREAKFAST The ultimate brunch cocktail, this spin on a breakfast martini is a fresh, bittersweet concoction that’s surprisingly easy to make in a pinch.

Originally created for St. David’s Day, we’d drink it all year round.

• In the Welsh Wind Signature Style Gin - 40ml • Orange Liqueur - 15ml • Fresh Orange Juice - 20ml • Ginger Syrup - 15ml • Welsh Marmalade - 1 Barspoon • Aromatic Bitters - 2 Dashes • Ginger, Orange Peel & Cloves Garnish

METHOD Add all the ingredients to your shaker filled with ice and shake.

Strain into your glass filled with crushed ice and garnish with fresh ginger, orange peel and cloves. Enjoy

In the Welsh Wind Signature Style priced at £42, inthewelshwind.co.uk

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IN FOCUS AN INSIGHT INTO THREE FASCINATING BRANDS Edited By

SAM KESSLER

UNDONE, Crude and Scatola Del Tempo

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UNDONE

UNDONE does watches your way, allowing you to customise the bezels, dials, hands, straps and more to create a playful expression of personality on your wrist

© @kiva_huang

Custom watches are expensive. If you want a blacked-out Rolex or some cool, unique dialled take on a Zenith then you’re going to be looking at a serious premium on top of the already pricey vanilla timepiece. It’s why, if you have a striking new colourway in mind that you’re dying to see on your wrist, you either need to pony up or miss out.

There is however a third option, one that’s been gaining some serious traction over the past few years: UNDONE watches.

Established in 2014 by vintage watch collector Michael Young, UNDONE was created to fill the void for an affordable approach to custom timepieces and has come on leaps and bounds in the years since. They’re not prestige watches by any stretch of the imagination, but when it comes to creating the watch of your dreams without breaking the bank, they’re an incredibly appealing option.

The customisation process starts with one of six models, depending on the breed of watch you’re expanding on. The Aqua II, as the name suggests, is a solid diver with all the necessary credentials (including 200m water resistance) while the Aero is a technical-looking aviator number, complete with clear numerals and iron sights. The Terra opts for a cushion case and vintage military vibe while the Basecamp tackles the classic Explorer style. Finally, the retro-slanted Urban comes in two different size variations, a diminutive, feminine 34mm and a more unisex 40mm.

Each has its own distinctive style innately tied to its horological archetype, but they wouldn’t be custom watches if that was the only choice you have. Indeed, once you get into the customising process, the number of choices you have can be a bit overwhelming.

It’s not that the process is difficult of course; it’s about as clear and concise as possible. But between the different bezels, dials, hands and straps to choose from – just to start – actually coming to a decision is easier said than done.

After a retro racing chrono? Do what we did and opt for the Urban with a gold case and vintage-style tachymeter dial. Something bolder? Try a fully blacked-out diver. Or just go crazy and opt for a colourway that has no right existing. Don’t worry, we won’t judge. Instagram might, though.

Possibly the most versatile of the lot though is the mountain explorer-focused Basecamp. Using the classic blue as your own starting point, it’s easy to create a striking, military-style watch backed by a solid automatic movement, complete with your name on the dial if you so wish. We did not.

Now, don’t get us wrong, UNDONE do not make prestige watches. Compared to the pieces you’ll

Try a fully blacked-out diver. Or just go crazy and opt for a colourway that has no right existing

shell out thousands for, they don’t compare. Some use quartz movements, others simpl lack the kind of fine finishing you get from Swiss watches.

But that’s not the point; these aren’t timepieces for horological purists, they’re accessible watches for anyone that wants to mirror their personality in their wristwear. And with prices from as little as £170, UNDONE is a brand you can afford to have some fun with.

To try your own hand at watch customisation, visit UNDONE.com

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CRUDE Who doesn’t want to drop everything and move to the beach? It was an appealing thought before the current crisis, but now it’s one that tugs at our very souls. It’s also a reason to admire Gregor Bieniek, founder of Crude Watches as that’s precisely what he did, upping sticks and heading out to the idyllic island of Ibiza.

It was a move that was as much a shift in lifestyle as location, selling off worldly possessions and downsizing to a more carefree, laidback way of living. But this is a man who bought his first Panerai at 18 and as we’ve all come to appreciate, a love of fine watches is a hard thing to get rid of. It wasn’t long before Bieniek started missing the reassuring weight of metal on his wrist.

So, he decided to build his own watch.

The idea actually started from something incredibly simple. A lover of jewellery too, Bieniek crafted a beautiful silver buckle for a watch strap.

But as there are very, very few watches built from the same semi-precious metal, it didn’t fit anything.

So, he built the watch to fit – which became the progenitor for Crude.

It would have been easy to copy a Submariner style or some other established archetype, but for Bieniek that wouldn’t do. In Ibiza, it’s all about Rolex, Rolex, Rolex, and he wanted something to stand out, something that better reflected his own love of rough-and-ready, charmingly scuffed, rock ‘n’ roll luxury. He wanted watches with character.

To that end, each Crude watch uses a single piece case and dial, cast from an individual mould. It’s an idea that seems insane in any traditional watch studio, but by leaning on the jewellery and casting expertise in Germany’s Pforzheim, Crude have created their own, unique process to make some spectacular, single-piece watches.

From there it would normally be a case of polishing them up and making them perfect. But that’s not the Crude way. Instead, their watches are just how they came out of the casting process, minute imperfections and all. Not that it’s too carefree of course; roughly 20 in every 50 cases go back into the melting pot, but the ones that remain are unique.

Indeed, character is what Crude is all about. It’s why they use silver in the first place, why they wear their flaws on their sleeve and why diamonds, which Bieniek has as much love of as a glam rock superstar, are a focal point of the dials.

It’s not all aesthetic either. Crude watches are constructed so that they retain 100m water resistance even with the crown pulled out and the movements are customised Eterna calibres for solid reliability and a 65-hour power reserve. Just because

Going against the grain, each Crude timepiece uses a single piece case and dial, cast from an individual mould

Roughly 20 in every 50 cases go back into the melting pot, but the ones that remain are unique you’re having fun with your watch doesn’t mean you can compromise on mechanics.

Above all however, Crude is about reflecting a certain lifestyle, one that embraces imperfections, would rather rumble around in an old Land Rover than a Ferrari and would rather stand out than blend in. The result isn’t subtle, and it isn’t for everyone, but whether you love them or not you have to respect what Crude is doing.

As for us, we’ll be heading out to Ibiza first chance we get.

Find out more at crude-studio.com

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SCATOLA DEL TEMPO While the automatic watch has been around since the 1920s, until far more recently keeping them wound was the unenviable task of many a collector.

Yes there are worse problems in the world than having to make sure your watch is telling the right time, but keeping it wound has more importance than that.

The general school of thought is that by keeping your watch continuously moving, as it was built to do, you stop the lubricants inside from getting too viscous and ensuring that the movement stays warmed-up and well-oiled. Think of it as the difference between taking your classic car out occasionally to dust off the engine or leaving it in a garage to rust. In this analogy, the open road is a watch winder.

Of course, if you’re a serious collector than not just any watch winder will do. A dubious rocking mechanism in a cheap box simply isn’t going to cut it. If you want a serious winder for a serious watch, then how about one that has the endorsement of Patek Philippe? We are of course talking about Scatola Del Tempo.

The story goes that in 1989, watch box maker Sandro Colarieti was looking for a better way to keep his watches wound than twisting the crowns every other day. Previously he had built plenty of single watch boxes, meant to just store the timepieces in style, but that wasn’t good enough. He wanted a way to emulate the natural rocking of a wrist to keep the times set and the movements moving and so created his own watch winder.

Colarieti was, himself, a devoted Patek Philippe collector, and so the Swiss watchmaker was the first port of call for his new invention. If he could get them interested, he was in business. He presented his winder to Patek in 1990 and, after a year of testing, they ordered 500 pieces.

This wasn’t just the first Scatola Del Tempo; this was the genesis of the watch winder, a concept that was previously unheard of. Since then the mechanism behind the winding has been refined, but the same quality and emphasis on craftsmanship that so impressed Patek still runs through the brand.

Today Scatola Del Tempo has expanded far beyond that original run of prestige winders. One-watch winders are still the bread-and-butter of the Italian manufacturer, but their range can now house tens if not hundreds of watches through winding cabinets and custom projects, offering the kind of in-built solutions that turn a watch collection into an interior design feature.

Like all good design features, Scatola Del Tempo winders also use the best materials available, be that precious woods, silks or leathers, surrounding

Scatola Del Tempo winders use precious woods, silks and leathers in the build to offer the kind of in-built solutions that can turn a watch collection into an interior design feature

If you want a serious winder for a serious watch, then how about one that has the endorsement of Patek Philippe?

high-precision Swiss micro-motors controlled by an exclusive microprocessor. All of that is distilled nicely in the latest Rotor One. Available in seven different leather colours and a variety of bezels – including a particularly cool Pepsi Cola GMT number for Rolex collectors – the Rotor One single-watch winder is sleek, sophisticated and runs autonomously for three years. It’s come a long way from Colarieti’s initial vision but between the Italian craftsmanship, novel design and growing appreciation of winders in general, the Rotor One is Scatola Del Tempo perfected.

But hey, if you fancy a floor to ceiling cabinet of horological wonders, that’s good too.

Discover the collection at their shop scatoladeltempo.com

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oracle insights

Aquavit London – DIY Meal Box O r a c le

INSIGHTS THE THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT AND WHY YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT THEM.

MARCELA SOLANA – POSITIVE PAINTINGS Depression and negativity are powerful forces that affect people every day, but there are inspiring designers and creators out there who are trying to combat these feelings. One such creator is Marcela Solana, also known as MARCH, who is a Mexican artist working with bright acrylics to create playful and inspiring artworks. Her style is perhaps epitomised by the piece ‘LISTEN UP!’ which features a blinged up rhino with some headphones – it’s joyful, fun and incredibly intricate. marcelasolana.com

With fine dining still off the menu for several months, home delivery kits remain all the rage. Aquavit London’s head chef Jorjon Colazo has put together three DIY meals including this pescatarian box for the seafood lover in your life. Inside you’ll find an absolute feast including langoustine, Houghton Springs Trout and Atlantic prawns among many other treats. All you have to do is heat it up, put it on a plate and dig in. The boxes are delivered every Thursday and you can order from their website.

Pescatarian Box, £90 aquavitrestaurants.com

IMPATIA – LUNGOLINEA GLASS TABLE TENNIS A table tennis table is a dominating feature of any room you put one in so why shouldn’t they get the luxury design treatment you’d give to any other centrepiece furniture? That’s the rationale behind Impatia’s new Italian made Lungolinea table, which presents the table court in glass. The modern design required careful engineering that means even the most competitive professional players can enjoy a game on its flawless surface. impatia.com

NICCOLÒ P. – DARK SAPPHIRE COTTON POLO Polo shirts are a staple of every wardrobe – they are one of, if not the most versatile apparel a man can own – perfectly suitable on the beach, on the tennis court or even tucked under a smart jacket. Here to cater for our needs is the polo specialist Niccolò P. who have a diverse range of fabrics, colours and styles available. A particular favourite has to be the Dark Sapphire Sea Island Cotton Polo Shirt. niccolo-p.com

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oracle insights

SIGR – BIOMOTION Swedish cycling apparel manufacturer Sigr are dedicated to creating environmentally and socially responsible gear promoting inclusivity within cycling. Every product they make is designed to be suitable for all genders with a large range of sizes available so that anyone can get into the sport no matter their body type. The biomotion range is their new commuter focussed line featuring rainproof, hi-vis gear that keeps you safe on the road – the name biomotion is inspired by natural, reoccurring movements seen in nature and society, such as the daily commute. https://sigr.cc

4TH & AVERY – 4A RELOJ 4th & Avery is an exclusively black owned watchmaker proud to produce affordable, minimalist timepieces for people engaged in the contemporary scene with a life-embracing attitude. The 4A Reloj takes that principle to the next level with a quirky dial featuring geometric shapes and contrasting subdials presented in subtly different styles. It’s a simple and fun design that accentuates unique style with an emphasis on Hip Hop, social responsibility and being fly. $350, 4A Reloj fourthandavery.com

MODALO – TIMELESS MV4

The Chimes Antique Clocks There’s so much to talk about with wristwatches that we often find ourselves neglecting other forms of timepieces.

That kind of neglect would never be found at antiqueclock.co.uk, who specialise in selling rare and collectable long case (grandfather) clocks, wall clocks and mantel clocks.

They have a huge range of styles on offer from many different time periods; works of art crafted by the finest clockmakers. You can book an appointment to visit the store or check out the full list of timepieces on their website.

Find out more at antique-clock.co.uk

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MODALO is a German company that focuses on the world of luxury ‘around the watch’, designing innovative storage solutions and watch winders.

Their products are not only functional but stylish as well, ideal for anyone seeking to personalise their watch wearing experience from the get-go.

The latest collection is the Timeless MV4 winders, available in six piece or four plus two piece configurations and in a large variety of colours and materials.

Timeless MV4 six piece winder, €846.69 (approx. £730) modalo.com

BACK — microbrand corner

MICROBRAND

CORNER THE SPECS

• 40.5mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • Miyota 8285 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • €1,150 (Approx. £1,000), atelierjalaper.com

From Avant Garde design to accessible haute horology, this is the latest and greatest from the creative world of microbrand watchmaking

Atelier Jalaper AJ002-B

There aren’t many cars more iconic than the Aston Martin DB5 and none when it comes to British marques.

You could certainly choose worse places from which to draw inspiration – and, for Atelier Jalaper, some of their watchmaking materials. The AJ002-B combines a dial made from the bonnet of a DB5 with a dashboardinspired layout and, in this version, a black PVD case and you have a distinctly modern twist on a distinctly British motoring legend. atelierjalaper.com

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THE SPECS

• 39mm stainless steel case with 120m water resistance • Vaucher 5401/32 automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve • $22,000, bradleytaylor.ca

Bradley Taylor Paragon

One half of Canadian brand Birchall and Taylor, Bradley’s first solo watch venture is a horological heavy-hitter, at least where the finishing is concerned. The overall design is beautifully traditional with a couple of quirky dial colours in light blue and purple with lovely La Tornade guilloche.

The secret though is that those dials are made by Comblémine, the studio of legendary finishing maestro Kari Voutilainen. With contrasting 2D, laser cut hands Vaucher movement, this is a serious piece right out the gate for Taylor.

Definitely one to watch. bradleytaylor.ca

Vero

Open Water The States continues to be a hotspot for cool, modern Microbrands and Vero is a good illustration of just why that is.

Their funky, sporty timepieces cut their teeth on the brand’s local Oregonian landscape and their latest release, the Open Water is no different. Split between the high contrast Crown Point, inspired by the Columbia River Gorge, and the monochrome North Coast with its fog-coloured matte case, they’re every bit as practical as your usual diving watch but with their own individual twists – a navy dial here, flashes of sky blue there. The North Coast is our favourite, but then we’re suckers for monochrome. vero-watch.com

THE SPECS

• 40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Sellita SW-2001 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • $875 (approx. £640), vero-watch.com

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THE SPECS

• 38mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Seiko VK64 meca-quartz movement • USD 485 (approx. £350) for Kickstarter backers, furlanmarri.com

Furlan Marri Havana Salmon

Rather than sit idly by through lockdown, Swiss designer Andrea Furlan and Middle Eastern collector Hamad Al Marri did the unthinkable: they started a watch brand. Enter Furlan Marri and their impeccably designed collection of vintage-styled chronographs. Aesthetically they hit the nail on the head – especially in the ludicrously lovely Havana Salmon – and in terms of accessibility their quartz movements make these the perfect impulse buy. Needless to say, they hit their Kickstarter goal worryingly quickly, but there’s still time to back them yourself. furlanmarri.com

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THE SPECS • 39mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW280-1 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • €790 (approx. £690), echoneutra.com

Echo / Neutra Averau 39 Moonphase

When Italian Alpine watch designer Echo / Neutra launched their initial Averau model in 2019, it hit its Kickstarter goal in 40 minutes. A follow-up is overdue. This new 39mm model is relatively similar, yet the downsizing makes for a slightly more charming timepiece, particularly when it comes to their effortlessly modern moonphase. Powered by a Sellita SW280-1 automatic movement and particularly handsome in black, it’ll set you back just 790 Euros at full retail, less on Kickstarter.

Sure the small seconds is a little more streamlined, but with prices like that why not go for the top-end version? echoneutra.com

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END — moviewatch

ONES TO WATCH

F1 is a paradise for haute horologists with the finest from TAG Heuer, Hublot and Richard Mille finding their way onto the grid

M OVIE WATC H

Drive to Survive Lockdown hasn’t been kind to the F1 season and when the pandemic first broke out many a Grand Prix was straight-up cancelled. Now that the teams are revving their engines again though, that hasn’t stopped us binge watching Netflix’s phenomenal Drive to Survive.

Netflix has been producing a fair few binge-worthy sports documentaries over the past few years, with insights into the Allblacks, Tottenham Hotspur and more, but this is by far the best one yet. With each season following the highs and lows

from the perspective of drivers, engineers and owners, it offers a fascinating insight into the work that goes into earning a podium place.

It’s also no surprise to see some pretty fantastic watches in the pit lanes, too. F1 and watchmaking have been inextricably linked since day one and that’s even before you get to the vast number of teams with horological sponsors.

Take Team Red Bull’s partnership with TAG Heuer for example. Not only does upcoming superstar Max Verstappen show off his skeletonised Carrera Calibre HEUER 01 Red Bull Racing Special Edition, but on the other end of the microphone to him team principal Chris Horner nabbed himself a nice little number too, the motorsport-inspired Autavia Chronograph.

That was way back in 2018 though, so what’s new to this season? Well the sponsors are once again out in force, and for Ferrari that means strapping an Hublot to young hotshot Charles Leclerc.

The watch in question is the intense MECA-10 Black Magic, a bit too chunky to wear in the cockpit but a solid watch all the same.

For Renault, it’s the last time we’ll be

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seeing their F1 team’s yellow on a watch – the BR-X1 R.S.20 – on the wrist of principal Cyril Abiteboul in favour of Alpine’s blue. We’ll be seeing what the new team watches will look like soon but personally we love the yellow. It feels like the end of an admittedly short era.

Next season Richard Mille is taking over the prancing horse from Hublot, so there’s little doubt we’ll be seeing their unique brand of sports-slanted watchmaking aplenty. But even last season the haute horologists made their presence felt, first on the wrist of racing legend Alain Prost and then as the watch of choice of Lando Norris, one of the show’s most watchable stars. If anyone can pull off bright orange, it’s him.

As ever F1 presents us with some of the most cutting-edge watches in the world, within and without the team partnerships that have come to define motorsport watchmaking. With a fair few shifts between sponsors and a changing of the guard or livery swap here and there, Drive to Survive Season 4 will be worth keeping an eye on.

Or you could just keep up with the actual F1 season as it happens, but where’s the fun in that?