Oracle Time - Issue 72 - May 2021 by Oracle Time Magazine

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .72

Art Deco Defined

VACHERON CONTANTIN The Art & Design Issue AUTOMOTIVE ICONS | COLLABORATIVE WATCHES | ROARING 20s STYLE

ISSUE 72

5.95

ORACLE TIME #72

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent Watch: Vacheron Constantin American 1921

Design is a pretty nebulous term (so’s art for that matter) and one that’s all but impossible to pin down. Except, of course, when it comes to some true classics of the visual arts, whether that’s a masterpiece of automotive design, an entire school of architecture or a re-released archival watch. And there’s a lot of that last lot around at the moment. That said, there are few watches that have reached the grand old age of 100, let alone ones that still grab us as much now as they did when they were new. One such watch is our cover star of this issue, the Vacheron American 1921, one of the first driving watches ever created – as Ken Kessler discusses with Vacheron’s Christian Selmoni on page 53. Still, the 1920s were great but it’s the roaring 2020s now. Well, at least once measures are lifted a little more. Last year was a write-off, but if the last couple of weekends have been anything to go by, nightlife will be back with a vengeance by this time next month – which means some of us (not me, obviously) need to update our wardrobes a little. Well never fear, as our style shoot this issue combines three things we here at Oracle Time adore: 1920s watches, eye-catching eveningwear and a seriously good Negroni courtesy of upscale Italian haunt, Harry’s Bar. Ever seen a man drink a martini in a silk dressing gown? You should. Check out the shoot on page 89. If you’re after something more subtle, well, let us try to change your mind a little as Nick Carvell explains why now is the time to embrace prints on page 82. The edit on the other hand approaches the sartorial arts in a more literal way, showcasing the clothes that defined the styles of Hockney, Basquiat and Matisse. It’s not just clothes that are inextricably linked with art. Horology is an art in and of itself, but that hasn’t stopped many a watchmaker taking a more collaborative, creative look at their timepieces. As Tracy Llewellyn illustrates on page 59, many, many brands have done just that – with painters, tattooists and even architects. NFTs too have found their way into both watchmaking and art, though more successfully in one than the other. Not sure what an NFT is? You should really get to page 130 as quickly as possible. They’re the future! Then again, architects of their day said that about Brutalism too, and while they’re still some of the most striking buildings around, London’s dystopian concrete structures are all too often overlooked. Not this issue. We enlisted a trio of photographers to show off the capitals magnificently blocky, fantastically evocative side. Take a trip around the capital on page 110. Speaking of evocative, is there any more car more so than the Jaguar E-Type? Maybe. While the E may be celebrating a big anniversary this year, so too is the racer that came before it, the superlative Jaguar C-Type. Basem Wasef takes a deep dive into the heritage of the seminal track special on page 122. And hey, if you do end up plumping for the platinum cased new 100th anniversary Vacheron, what better pairing than that? As ever, stay safe, stay sane and enjoy this issue. Sam Kessler, Editor

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ORACLE TIME #72

CONTRIBUTORS WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk SUB EDITOR

Nick Carvell

Style Editor-At-Large A lifelong fan of double denim (even triple on occasion), Nick started his career as the launch Social Media Editor of mrporter. com before leaving to become Associate Style Editor of British GQ, then Editor of London men’s magazine The Jackal. Today he’s a freelance menswear and grooming writer based in Bedfordshire – as well as his most important role to date, Style Editor at Large for Oracle Time.

Dan Mobbs

Basem Wasef

danmobbs@hotmail.com

Basem Wasef is an author and journalist with a penchant for all things vehicular. Though he had a colorful carwatching childhood in London, Basem enjoys calling Southern California home.

JUNIOR COPYWRITER

Michael Sonsino michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Kirsty Illingworth kirsty@opulentmedia.co.uk DIRECTOR

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk MANAGING EDITOR / CO-FOUNDER

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk

Tracey Llewellyn Aidy Smith

is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers. He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped.

Tracey Llewellyn is watch editor of The Telegraph and former global editorial director of Revolution. She feels privileged that, through the years, her job in the watch world has enabled her to indulge her passion for art and design.

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7872 4615

George Parker

Ken Kessler

is unimpressed by the 21st century and enjoys retro, if costly, boys’ toys, such as cameras, mechanical watches and fountain pens – of late, he is obsessed with Italian red wine. He has written four books on luxury hi-fi equipment and collects chronographs and film noir DVDs.

george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7872 4616 ACCOUNT MANAGER

Themba Wirz themba@opulentmedia.co.uk 0208 057 1140 OT MAGAZINE is published monthly by Opulent Media 020 7872 4615

Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

ORACLE TIME #72

CONTENTS

OT M AG A ZINE / ISSUE 72

18 — AFICIONADO

We reveal what’s on our radar and what should be on your shopping list this month

26 — NEWS

A round-up of the latest happenings in luxury living and the best in horology

37 — 220 YEARS OF THE TOURBILLON

We pay homage to one of the most evocative additions to haute horology

46 — ASK THE ORACLE

Strap in for an essential guide to the sexiest bracelets

53 — HISTORY WITH A TWIST

Watchmaker to the French court, innovator of meticulously crafted contraptions and leaver of scant crumbs for his contemporaries, it’s impossible to overstate his importance

Discussing the appeal of the American 21 with Vacheron’s Christian Selmoni

Tourbillon — p37

ORACLE TIME #72

CONTENTS

68 — THE NEW ROARING TWENTIES

Welcome to your new, opulent, post-lockdown wardrobe for a new rakish you

82 — ART FOR SHIRTS SAKE

Make summer your own gallery and flaunt a broad palette of artistic colour

89 — BRIGHTEN UP

Celebrate stepping back into life by adding some zingy colour to your armoury

103 — WATCH REVIEWS

122

Hands on with Bell & Ross and Audemars Piguet models

110 — BRUTALISM

London’s angular dystopian concrete heritage has never looked so good

122 — THE CURVACEOUS TYPE

The history behind the car that put the British marque on the map and the track

130 — NON-FUNGIBLE WHAT NOW?

The watch world has embraced artists – and it’s produced some of the most playful and crazy pieces out there Art to Watch — p59

59 — ART TO WATCH

Artistic collaboration is nothing new in watches, but why do they work?

65 — ART IN TIME

A creative mob is determined to ensure artistic flair isn’t reserved for gallery walls

Technology and art has collided with interesting results

138 — WONDERFUL WORLD OF WHISKY

From India to Vermont we delve into the best bottles from around the world

147 — IN FOCUS

Lundis Bleus and Raymond Weil are in the spotlight

155 – MICROBRAND CORNER What’s new in the world of the small-scale?

160 – MOVIE WATCH

Revealing the Citizen soldiers in the latest Marvel epic

FRONT — aficionado

edited by: MICHAEL SONSINO

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

FRONT — aficionado

SPACE TIME

Celebrating its 175th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin has released a limited-edition table clock, called UFO, inspired by the brand’s rich marine heritage and their vision for the future. The UFO takes the principles of Marine Chronometers, for which the brand was renowned in the 1800s, and launches it 175 years into the future, imagining an equivalent timepiece from the year 2196, with a space age design, three time zones and a power reserve of a year. $41,000, find out more at ulysse-nardin.com

FRONT — aficionado

GREAT FILM, GREAT MOTORBIKE

Steve McQueen may well be one of the most iconic actors of all time and UK motorcycle manufacturer Triumph played a big role in one of his most iconic movies, The Great Escape. In homage to the famous bike jump, Triumph has launched the Scrambler 1200 Steve McQueen Edition – its tank is finished in Competition Green, inspired by the bike from the film and it bears many other nods to the 60s, including a period accurate decal. £13,600, limited to 1,000 models, available through authorised Triumph dealers and triumphmotorcycles.com

FRONT — aficionado

FLYING OVER THE WAVES

After a year stuck inside, who wouldn’t want to get out on the waves and enjoy some sun? Fliteboards allow you to do just that, even if wave and wind conditions aren’t perfect for traditional watersports – their motorised, hydrofoil technology lets you ride up to 70cm above the water no matter the weather. The new Series 2 range offers even more options for your board, with beginner-friendly customisation or PRO and ULTRA versions for extreme carving. Prices from €10,400 depending on specifications, available to buy from eu.fliteboard.com

FRONT — aficionado

COSTA RICAN COMFORT

When the founder of Art Villas and his wife discovered their inability to have children without medical assistance, they refocused their energy toward architecture. Several years on and they realised their dream with three villas in Costa Rica, the most awe inspiring being The Art Villa, a concrete mansion set in the coastal jungles of the country. With five bedrooms, a contemporary kitchen and an infinity pool, it combines modern design with the local environment effortlessly. You can book a stay via Airbnb or through their website artvillas.com

FRONT — aficionado

ADVENTURING WITH VENTURA

The Pershing X-Series range consists of some of the most advanced yachts on the market and none more so than the 8X, the winner of the 2021 ‘Custom Yacht’ category at the Motorboat Awards, available at Ventura. What makes it so exceptional is its full carbon fibre superstructure, giving it a super lightweight and durable construction, allowing it to reach up to 48 knots and handle like a dream – you’ll be envious of whoever’s at the helm. For more information on the 8X visit venturaeurope.com

FRONT — aficionado

TASTING NOTES: On the nose–neutral grain aromas with a delicate touch of citrus. Silky smooth with a hint of sweetness and vanilla. Ending with a sweet, creamy finish.

SEEING RAINBOWS

Crystal Head Vodka is one of the most iconic drinks brand to appear in recent years, thanks in no small part to their signature skull bottles. At the end of the month they’re releasing a new one, the Crystal Head Vodka Pride Edition Magnum, a rainbow take on the skull design. It has been made in partnership with the Kaleidoscope Trust, an international LGBT+ human rights charity based in Britain. £140, available online and at Selfridges, for more information visit crystalheadvodka.com

FRONT — aficionado

A GRAPHITE DATOGRAPH

Julie Kraulis is a Canadian artist who has taken the world of horology to heart with a series of astonishing graphite drawings. Her attention to detail makes her images almost photorealistic and the drama of her pieces are enhanced by graphic twists such as altered proportions or interesting compositions. Her drawing of the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph took 450 hours to complete, featuring the face and movement of the timepiece overlapped with each other. Find out more at juliekraulis.com

ANTE UP

Cards, chips and cunning, for many of us Poker’s a tradition, a reason to get together and justifiably steal your friends’ money. It’s serious business and for the ultimate poker night, the usual battered roll of green velvet just won’t do. This phenomenally cool version from the Italian artisans at Impatia on the other hand, is another matter entirely. This black edition of the UNOOTTO table combines smoked glass with marble trim, black alcantara playing field and black nickel legs. The downside? It’ll be much harder to convince other players you don’t know the rules. impatia.com

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS

JAEGER-LECOULTRE REVEAL NEW ART INSTALLATION There are more similarities between the worlds of fine art and watchmaking than you may realise. Jaeger-LeCoultre are certainly keen to thin the gap with their new artwork commissioned from American artist Michael Murphy, titled Spacetime. The artwork depicts the new JLC Reverso Tribute Nonantième, which expresses time in different manners on each of its faces. To symbolise the connection between art and time, Spacetime uses Murphy’s signature anamorphosis style to stretch the design along an addition axis, meaning your perspective changes as you move around the artwork in a three-dimensional space. Whether you go in for all the meaning of time symbolism or not, you can’t deny it looks awesome (pictured above).

CARTER MARSH PRESENT JOHN TAYLOR COLLECTION This summer, one of the most important private collections of English clocks and scientific equipment will be put on the market for the first time. Carter Marsh will be selling Dr John C. Taylor OBE’s collection at several exhibitions over the coming months, starting with a highlights display from the 23rd to 30th June

FRONT — world news

HENLEY FESTIVAL ANNOUNCES DATES FOR 2021HEN

The UK’s only black-tie festival has announced its returning dates after a year of hardship. The sophisticated carnival will be back in its traditional home of Henleyon-Thames from the 15th to 19th September this year, as well as hosting a pop-up party from the 8th to 10th July. We can’t wait to get partying again and with headliners like Madness, James Blunt, Sophie Ellis-Bextor and Sister Sledge already announced, our anticipation continues to grow. Henley Festival holds a unique position within the festival calendar, swapping out the traditional wellies in a muddy field approach for a more refined affair including Michelin Star quality food provided by Angela Hartnett MBE. General Admission £50, Seated Ticket £75, for all booking information head to henley-festival.co.uk

JARDINE MOTORS AUTOMOBILI PININFARINA LONDON Jardine Motors Group has announced that they are to become the London and south UK retailer for the electric, hybrid hypercar, Automobili Pininfarina Battista, from summer 2021. The limited edition, handmade GT marks a new benchmark in sustainable, luxury performance vehicles – combining 1,900 bhp with zero emissions. Only 150 of the cars will be made, each crafted in Battista’s atelier in Cambiano, Italy and the new owners will be invited to meet with the team in charge of designing their car. Having already passed numerous tests, the car will be available to UK collectors through Jardine’s Automobili Pininfarina London where prospective owners can get up close with the cars. Register your interest at jardinemotors.co.uk/coming-soonpininfarina/

Only 150 of the cars will be made, each crafted in Battista’s atelier in Italy

at the Ronald Phillips Ltd gallery in Mayfair. Part One of the exhibition will then take place from the 3rd to 24th July at Carter Marsh’s premises in Winchester. From the Munge Green to the Spanish Tompion, there are some true gems of English clockmaking with a variety of museum worthy pieces on offer and some fine examples that are extremely rare in private collections.

FRONT — world news

RICHARD MILLE AIM TO BREAK SPEED RECORD The fact Switzerland is a landlocked country means it might sound odd for a Swiss watchmaker and a group of Swiss engineers to band together to try and beat the world speed record for a sailboat, but here we are. The two companies, Richard Mille and SP80 (a Swiss boat builder), decided to work together because of their mutual use of Carbon TPT®, a super lightweight and strong material that can withstand the pressures of extreme speeds and high-performance They aim to horology. By using the material in conjunction with a break the 6520ft sail and new foil knot record by technology, they aim to break reaching 80 knots the 65-knot record (set in in 2022 by reaching a through the power 2012) staggering 80 knots through of wind alone the power of wind alone.

WATCHFINDER & CO. DITCH GENDER LABELS This news has been a long time coming in the watch retail industry and Watchfinder & Co. are the first to take the leap – removing all gender labels from watches on their website. They say marketing timepieces to a specific gender is ‘redundant, restrictive and outdated’ and we couldn’t agree more. For the most part, the distinction between men’s and women’s watches has been their size

MACAU CALLING – SWATCH X YOU In keeping with this month’s art theme, Swatch’s latest artistic endeavour has been a great success. They worked alongside six young artists in Macau to develop designs for their Swatch X You customisable watches. The artists involved are PIBG 2038, Vitorino Vong, Tramy Lui, Kay Tung, MCZ_Thomas and Kun Lam – a diverse mix of illustrators, graffiti artists and multimedia artists. You could order your Swatch X You watch printed with designs from any of the Macau artworks along with a personal inscription, making each timepiece unique and part of a flourishing culture. While the run on Macau designs ends on 3rd May, given its success similar programs are sure to follow.

but with models like the 36mm IWC Big Pilot showing that men’s watches are shrinking and the Rolex Ladies’ Pearlmaster growing to 39mm, the traditional separation between the genders is narrowing. Prompting the online retailer to simply market watches as small, medium or large and remove all gender labels.

Marketing timepieces to a specific gender is ‘redundant, restrictive and outdated’

FRONT — world news

ANANTARA LAUNCH LARGEST TWO-BEDROOM OVERWATER RESIDENCE

The tropical dream of blue waters, sunny skies and all-round great vibes is epitomised by Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas. They’ve renovated all their accommodation located on the Baa Atoll and launched the biggest two-bedroom overwater residences in the world. ‘Overwater’ meaning, as you may have guessed, the entire building is situated on top of the waves – you can even watch the marine life below through select areas of glass flooring. Each residence sports a gym, a couples’ spa room, a fully equipped kitchen and a wine fridge, the whole building covering 1,500sq. m. Ideally suited to holidays and group travel with friends and family – when we’re allowed to get away. anantara.com

GUESS T H E WATCH What’s the only sports watch that actually gets worn during play? It’s of course Richard Mille, in particular the massive, chunky yet incredibly lightweight performance chronograph, the recent RM 65-01 Split-Seconds.

As this is our Design issue – and next month is Futurism – we thought a watch that encapsulates the best of both would be fitting. What better then than the instantly recognisable silhouette of… what? This is one you shouldn’t need any hints for.

what is the

WATCH

What is the watch?

CHECK BACK NEXT ISSUE FOR THE ANSWER Think you know the answer? Email our editor for a chance to win a year’s free subscription at sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk.

FRONT — alliance to watch

Salon Privé TIME PETROLHEADS REJOICE AS SALON PRIVÉ RETURNS TO ITS ANCESTRAL HOME OF BLENHEIM PALACE FOR ITS 16TH EDITION FROM 1ST TO 5TH SEPTEMBER

THE EXHIBITION is renowned for its unparalleled combination of ultra-modern hypercars and luxury vehicles, with 25 global debuts taking place on the South Lawn in 2020. But it’s not just new releases that are the focus of the exhibition, as Salon Privé is a major part of the classic car community. The Concours d’Elégance is one of the most prestigious classic car competitions in the world with 100 of the finest cars and motorbikes vying for recognition from the ICJAG Jury. This year however, the illustrious gathering of super and classic cars is turning its hand towards the intricate world of haute horology as the organisers present the inaugural Salon Privé TIME. For every McLaren hypercar there is a Richard Mille watch, for every 1920s classic there is a Vacheron Constantin. The synergy between car and timepiece is an essential part of a complete driving experience. Whether it’s a high-octane racing chronograph on your wrist for timing laps and calculating splits as you whip around on an Alpine road or a sleek GMT timepiece for cruising along in a

This year however, the illustrious gathering of super and classic cars is turning its hand towards the world of haute horology Grand Tourer and revelling in the Mediterranean sunshine. With Oracle Time as its media partner, the new showcase will bring together a select group of the world’s finest watchmakers with the 30 or so luxury brands already taking part to illustrate the superlative links in style, design and prestige between the worlds of watchmaking and cars. The full line-up has yet to be announced but given Blenheim Palace’s own historical links with horology dating back to the 1700s, it’s sure to be impressive. Full Hospitality Tickets are priced at £325. For more information visit salonpriveconcours.com

FRONT — introducing

NEWS

INTRO DUCING PATEK PHILIPPE

In-line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P-001

There are just a few releases that we wait for each year with baited breath, and a Patek Philippe Grand Complication is always one of them. This year though, Patek might just have outdone themselves, not with some insane, flashy take on a tourbillon or more complications than a back-alley heart surgery, but with a genuinely novel take on one of the three true high complications. This is the Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P.

IN DETAIL

41.3mm platinum case with 30m water resistance • Caliber 31-260 PS QL automatic movement with 38h – 48h power reserve • £100,190, patek.com

•

ROLEX

Daytona Cosmograph Meteorite

The Daytona’s already out of this world (or may as well be for most collectors) but this year, between revitalising the Explorer and creating some sexy new dials, Rolex has taken their racing watch’s reputation literally with a new meteorite dial. Available in white, yellow and everose gold, it’s a cool new take on the holy grail of tachymeter-equipped timepieces and a striking new twist to the classic panda dial. We want it.

IN DETAIL

40mm case in white gold, yellow gold or everose gold with 100m water resistance

•

• calibre 4130 automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve • £27,350 (white gold), £32,900 (yellow gold) and £35,100 (everose gold), rolex.com

FRONT — introducing

HERMES H08

A latecomer to the luxury sports watch game, Hermes’ take on the formula is nonetheless a welcome monochromatic addition to the canon. We got hands-on with the watch well in advance of Watches & Wonders (you can check out our video at youtube.com) and now that it’s out we love it as much as ever. Lightweight, comfortable and multifaceted, even the numerals are incredibly cool. Best of all, it’s a good deal more accessible than most of its competitors.

IN DETAIL

• 39mm titanium case with 100m water resistance Calibre H1837 automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve • From £4,440, hermes.com •

FARER

Carnegie Chronograph Sport

Green is the colour of 2021, but as ever the colourfully-inclined designers at Farer have put their own twist on it, opting instead for a more peacock hue of teal for the latest edition of their incredibly successful racing chronograph. Paired with dark blue subdials and tachymeter-equipped bezel – and of course plenty of other colours besides – it’s one of the funkiest, most playful and downright accessible trackside timepieces around. Move over, panda.

IN DETAIL

41mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW510 BH Elaboré automatic movement with 58hour power reserve • £1,680, farer.com •

FRONT — introducing

MILUS

Archimèdes Silver Storm

In the current retro climate the Super Compressor case has made a bit of a comeback, with a fair few watchmakers evoking its dual-crown layout and water resistant case. Milus though are showing them exactly how it should be done, with this revamp of the original Milus Super Compressor from the 70s. Skewing much more elegant than most dive watches, it’s nonetheless a heavy hitter in the specs department, with an ETA movement and 300m water resistance. It’s available in green, blue or black, but for us it’s all about the streamlined Silver Storm.

IN DETAIL

41mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • ETA 2892 automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve • Euro 1,735 (approx. £1,500), milus.com •

IN DETAIL

43mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • MS Bell calibre with 38-hour power reserve • £3,490, meistersinger.com

•

MEISTERSINGER Bell Hora

Chiming watches are up there with the priciest, most exclusive pieces of haute horology there is - which makes it even more impressive that the latest from German watchmaker MeisterSinger isn’t just a handsome, one-handed timepiece, but one that chimes on the hour. The Sonnerie au passage isn’t quite a minute repeater, which is fine. Nobody needs to be reminded of the time every 15 minutes. Plus it means that the Bell Hora is unexpectedly accessible, another feather in the hat of an underrated brand.

FRONT — tourbillon timeline

WORDS:

KEN KESSLER

220

Years of the Tourbillon AS THE TOURBILLON CELEBRATES ITS 220nd ANNIVERSARY, WE PAY HOMAGE TO ONE OF THE MOST EVOCATIVE ADDITIONS TO HAUTE HOROLOGY AND ITS PATRON SAINT, ABRAHAM LOUIS BREGUET

FRONT — tourbillon timeline

Franck Muller is often given the credit for turning the tourbillon into the modern monster it is, the kind of complication that’s shorthand for haute horology of a very particular vein. And to a point, that’s true. Richard Mille’s ascent to stardom was paved by Muller’s unique brand of watchmaking, and the same goes for many other watchmakers besides. Yet while it was indeed Muller that revitalised the concept, it’s one that has been around for a while in wristwatch form – though there’s some debate as to who actually built the first. The actual mechanism however has been around even longer. In fact, the tourbillon as a concept celebrates its 220nd anniversary this year. So, in light of this downright remarkable milestone, it’s worth taking a closer look at the genesis of everyone’s favourite, anti-gravitational complication, the Tourbillon. Like a good amount of watchmaking, the tourbillon began with the metaphorical patron saint of horology, Abraham Louis Breguet. Watchmaker to the French court, innovator of meticulously crafted contraptions and leaver of scant crumbs for his contemporaries, it’s impossible to overstate his importance on watchmaking. Before 1795 however, Breguet was hiding out in Switzerland. So were a lot of people after the Reign of Terror following the brutal and bloody French Revolution. If you were a court favourite, it was a good time to get out of dodge. During his time in Switzerland he noticed that the accuracy of his timepieces changed according to the position they were kept in, no matter how consistently he built them. The main culprit was when the pocket watches were sitting upright which was, unfortunately, how most proper gentlemen of the time would keep them. The effect was, of course, due to gravity working its nefarious ways on the delicate regulating components of the watch and it was beyond even Breguet to create Zero-G back in the 1700s. He could however, compensate for it. The issue wasn’t that gravity affected the watch, it was that gravity affected it in one direction. The solution? Turn the most affected parts so that every part of

The 64mm tourbillon pocket watch, Breguet No. 1176, shown here on the archival records of its sale in 1809

Watchmaker to the French court, innovator of meticulously crafted contraptions and leaver of scant crumbs for his contemporaries, it’s impossible to overstate his importance it was pulled down equally. So, when Breguet returned to Paris in 1795, he did so with his new regulating organ and escapement inside a mobile carriage. In 1801, or “7th Messidor of the year IX,” if we’re going by the French Republican calendar - he applied for the patent: “Citizen Minister I have the honour of presenting to you a dissertation containing the description of a new invention for the use with time-measuring devices. I call this device the Tourbillon Regulator [...] By means of this invention, I have successfully compensated for the anomalies arising from the different positions of the centres of gravity caused by the regulator movement. [...] Respectfully yours, Breguet”

FRONT — tourbillon timeline

The Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge (right) features twin tourbillons that rotate in a carousel around the dial

It took another few years before the patent application was granted, but granted it was for a period of 10 years. It took Breguet a good amount of that before he presented the first commercially viable tourbillon at the National Exhibition of Industrial Products in 1806. Throughout his life, Breguet sold 35 tourbillon watches, a number even Roger Smith would think paltry. Still, the mechanism didn’t go anywhere, despite outliving its usefulness as horology improved over the centuries. Today it’s more a showpiece than a serious mechanism to improve accuracy – unless you go to the extremes of multiaxis or linked tourbillons which, let’s be honest, are still showpieces – but it’s remained one of the most evocative additions to haute horology out there. It’s also still very much a part of what the modern Breguet are doing. To celebrate 220 years of the tourbillon, Breguet are currently showcasing a few historical models over at Watches of Switzerland in Knightsbridge. Given we can’t get to any of Geneva’s museums any time soon, it’s a great exhibition to soak up some horological history. Perhaps more interestingly to most of us though is their latest tourbillon equipped timepiece, the Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge. It’s an incredible piece, with twin tourbillons that themselves rotate in a carousel around the dial. While I’m not a huge fan of the Breguet logos that cap the barrels, it’s an impressive sight. It’s just as impressive on the back where the watchmaker has engraved a full fresco of the “House of the Quai”, the Parisian workshop in which AbrahamLouis built the first tourbillons. Well, if the tourbillon is a show piece, it makes sense that Breguet would build one of the showiest of all.

FRONT — facetime

NO.

FA C E T I M E The watch collections of the rich and famous revealed

Tadao Ando

Architect and thinker

WITHOUT A DOUBT, Tadao Ando is one of the most influential architects working today. Even if you’ve not heard his name before – which is more than fair enough, the quiet 80-year-old is not much of a self-publicist – you’ll have certainly come across some of his buildings. The Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth in Texas, the Langen Foundation, even a public toilet surrounded by cherry trees in Tokyo, the Pritzker prize-winning architect has many a magnificent project under his belt, which makes it all the more impressive that he has absolutely no formal training whatsoever.

Before he segued into the building arts, his career was of a more pugilistic bent: he was a professional boxer. That was until he was struck by the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Imperial Hotel in Tokyo. From then on there was no going back. Over time he’s developed an instantly recognisable style, utilising glass and concrete in beautiful curves and naturalistic shapes, designing deceptively complex spatial circulation in a way that makes it look and feel minimal, simple almost. If you need a visual definition of Zen, his projects are it. The reason we’re talking about Ando-san however isn’t solely for his architectural work, though there’s

FRONT — facetime

Tadao Ando’s Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth in Texas (top); his third Bulgari collaboration (above, left) that was unveiled at Watches and Wonders this year; and the Ando designed He Art Museum (above, right and below) in Guangdong, China

“A watch is more than a device to keep time. I’m trying to express something that goes beyond the basic functions of a watch”

more than enough virtue there. Instead though, we managed to briefly hear from the man about his latest tie-in with Bulgari, the third piece designed in collaboration with the Italian heritage watchmaker. The first question therefore is the simplest: why a watch? “Time is as meaningful to human beings as is living,” says Tadao. “When we display it like a clock, I believe it is not just counting time but is a way to express oneself. A watch is more than a device to keep time. I’m trying to express something that goes beyond the basic functions of a watch. “I believe that with a watch, you can instantly perceive a person’s personality, their hopes, their experiences. That is how I designed this watch; considering the shape, the colour and the size.” That’s a way of thinking that any watch collector should be nodding their head in agreement at. None of us invest in a timepiece because it can tell the time. That’s insane. We do it because it’s a statement about ourselves, be that shallow like you just got a big bonus or personal, like a horological heirloom. From the sound of it, Tadao was aiming more towards the latter. Based on the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo with its angular, Genta-designed case and in this instance blacked out, stealthy look, the latest watch from the maestro of concrete curves is an absolutely stunner. A dark blue dial, complete with the swirls of a zen garden (or Tadao Ando building) is interrupted only by a shining gold crescent moon on the lower half of the dial. It’s relatively straightforward by far more detailed than it at first appears, a watchmaking allegory for the man’s particular architectural angle. “I think of the dark blue colour of the watch face as the full moon in the dark blue colour of the night sky.” While the swirls have been there on both previous Bulgari collaborations, why in this instance did Tadao decide to incorporate the moon? Everything has a reason. “I wanted to make a watch that would inspire people to put it on and have hope that they can make it to the other side of the world. I wanted to make a watch that says, in this time of pandemic, we must all find hope, no matter what. By using the image of the moon I wanted a watch that was more mystical. In that sense I think the moon is mystical and full of hope. I want to create a watch that is also full of hope.” The end result is the most beautiful collaboration between watchmaker and architect so far and we’re hoping it won’t be the last. As for Tadao’s architectural side, he recently completed the He Art Museum in China, so we’re sure there’s plenty more to come.

FRONT — man of influence

Auctions can be stuffy affairs, it’s true, as can auctioneers. Which is what makes James Marks, Phillips’ international watch guru, a breath of fresh air. The former hedge fund manager went from being a client of the auctioneers to presiding over their incredibly successful domination of vintage watch sales across the world and talking to him it’s easy to tell he’s taken a different route to the top than most auction specialists. When I caught up with him however, lockdown had evidently taken its toll, not because the ever chipper horological specialist was particularly down about the pandemic, but because of internet impulse buying. “Unfortunately for my wife, I’ve managed to track down every vintage Porsche catalogue around. I also decided to finally switch up my shoes to stop Nick Faulks taking the piss out of my Loro Piana Openwalks. I decided to try a pair of Asics – not sure why, they were just the first I saw – and now I have new pairs always turning up. Between those and the catalogues, my wife’s wondering who she married!” While endless boxes of old catalogues might be driving James’ family to the brink of madness, business-wise things are remarkably stable. Phillips hasn’t just ticked over during the course of the pandemic; they’ve solidified their place as arguably the leading watch auctioneer. “We’ve managed to weather the storm pretty well actually. I don’t like to say we’ve done too well – there’s a bit of sadness in success these days – but before it really hit us here friends in Asia warned me just how bad this pandemic was going to be and we moved quickly to adapt.” “One of the first things was to make Phillips Perpetual a completely online store. In fact, we’ve been selling plenty on there even during the height of lockdown. Between that and our ability to do auctions digitally, we’ve done tentatively well.” Digital auctions – or at least, digitally accessible auctions – are likely here to stay in the long run, but what about physical? With the lots and buyers that Phillips tends to attract (just take a look back at their incredible Racing Pulse auction) are they determined to have both elements? “I was on the phones for that one. It was electric, waiting to see if the guy at the other end was going to up his bid or not. There were some great watches, but the atmosphere at an auction like that is like nothing else… as

Words:

Sam Kessler

Man of Influence:

JAMES MARKS

DISCUSSING LOCKDOWN, WATCHES AND FAR TOO MANY PORSCHE CATALOGUES WITH THE INTERNATIONAL WATCH SPECIALIST AND PHILLIPS AUCTIONEER

FRONT — man of influence

A stunning 1965 2.0 SWB prepared by Tuthill Porsche for the 2.0 Cup series (left) and Cartier Tank Cintree (below) both have an emotional hold over James

“Everything I buy, I buy for the emotion behind it. Sure, it helps if it’s a great product, but that’s not why I bought my Land Rover Defender. There are better 4X4s out there. But there aren’t any that make me feel the same”

soon as we can, I want to get back to that. Safely, of course.” The big question for a guy with access to some of the rarest, finest timepieces in the world however is actually a pretty simple one: why do you buy what you buy? After all, some collectors do it for the investment, some do it for bragging rights, some even do it because they actually like the watches. How about James? “Simple really, everything I buy, I buy for the emotion behind it. Sure, it helps if it’s a great product, but that’s not why I bought my Land Rover Defender. There are better 4X4s out there. But there aren’t any that make me feel the same way.” It’s also how he ended up with the absolutely stunning 1965 2.0 SWB prepared by Tuthill Porsche for the 2.0 Cup series you can see him in here. In case the catalogues didn’t tip you off, James is a Porsche guy. He has a similar approach to watches, too. “Often, you’ll see guys wearing Rolexes and Pateks, even F.P. Journes nowadays and you just think: you’re only buying that because you want to fit in with that crowd, which is fine. But it’s a uniform and one that I don’t want to be part of. Most of the time there’s no emotion there, it’s just an accessory.” It’s a pretty bold stance for an auctioneer that regularly sells Rolex, Patek and F.P. Journe but one that, as a

collector myself, I completely understand. My favourite watch is a 1964 Seamaster, not because it’s an incredibly handsome dress watch (it is) but because it was given to my granddad for 40 years working at Texaco. It has a story. So, what has James bought recently that’s emotionally resonated? “What, other than old Porsche catalogues? I was fortunate enough to be offered the Cartier Tank Cintree ‘Eminence Grise’ Commande Speciale, a special-dial collaboration between Cartier, SJX and John Goldberger. It ticks every box for me. It’s a very limited model, designed by a Cartier lover and is incredibly handsome to boot. Plus, it’s funny, I feel like I’ve come full circle. The first watch I ever bought was a Cartier Tank back when I was 18. This one’s a lot more special though.”

FRONT — books to bookmark

POOLSIDE WITH SLIM AARONS

Sam Kessler

Books to Bookmark

Ever wanted to gaze at attractive, wealthy people doing attractive, wealthy things? This coffee table compendium of Slim Aarons beautiful photographic works is enough to get anyone daydreaming of the jet-set. Centred around pools in ranging from the Caribbean to Monaco throughout the fifties, sixties and seventies, this is luxury at its most glamorous.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH SPECIALIST AND PHILLIPS AUCTIONEER, JAMES MARK SELECTS HIS FAVOURITES

by Lisa Endlich

JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER THE WIZARD OF SWISS WATCHMAKING

Before they went public back in 1998, Goldman Sachs was the most profitable private partnership on Wall Street for nearly 130 years, topping out at $3 billion in pre-tax profits in 1997. If you’ve ever wondered how that came to be, former Vice President Lisa Endlich has you covered, with access to all levels of the Goldman Sachs and what made them the incredible success they were.

Few men have had a bigger impact on the modern watch industry than Jean-Claude Biver, the man behind the success of brands like Hublot and TAG Heuer. Yet did you know he grew up on a hippie commune? No? Then you should definitely read this series of interviews with the man himself. You’ll never look at a Big Bang the same way again.

GOLDMAN SACHS THE CULTURE OF SUCCESS

by Orell Fussli

“

Did you know he grew up on a hippie commune? No? Then you should definitely read this

BLOOD MONEY by Tom Bower

Switzerland is synonymous with watchmaking, it’s true, but the country has also become notorious for one thing: Jewish gold. This investingative work delves into the relationship between Swiss banks and the Nazis during World War II. A striking, eye-opening insight into the duplicities of wartime governments, it’s not one for holiday reading in Geneva.

PORSCHE UNSEEN DESIGN STUDIES

by Stefan Bogner and Jan Baedeker

If you’ve ever dreamed of a Porsche that just never made it to production, there’s a good chance it’s in this book. Celebrating the prototypes and ideas that never made it out of the factory, Porsche Unseen takes a glimpse behind the curtain at the marque’s design studios. A 1-litre Porsche? A coupé-like four-seater with 911-looks? Single-seated roadsters with fifties flair? It’s all in here.

FRONT — ask the oracle

THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained

In some cases, it’s a feature with the kind of sexy curves to match a vintage E-Type, the sort you look at and can’t help but want to run your fingers along, feeling every minute polished and brushed surface. Am I taking this in a weird direction? Maybe. Are there some strange feelings mixed up in there somewhere? Definitely. But there’s no denying these bracelets are about as curvaceous as it gets.

[Atelier de Chronometrie AdC8]

The split-seconds AdC8 from independent, Barcelona-based watchmaker Atelier de Chronometrie is already a spectacular watch, with its vintage pulsometer looks and the reference’s signature teardrop lugs. But to set it off more than the standard black leather strap can ever do, the watchmaker decided to translate those teardrops into one of the most beautiful bracelets around. As much a piece of jewellery as a watch bracelet, the droplets make a finely-linked, sculptural strap that you can’t help but want to touch. If this doesn’t persuade you that something as basic as a watch bracelet can be sexy, nothing will.

[Breitling Rouleaux] [The Sexiest Bracelets in Watchmaking]

It’s easy to assume the entire appeal of a fine timepiece is in the watch head. It has all the talking pieces, from the dial (green, blue, the almighty Panda) to the movement (accessible automatics, haute horology, tourbillon-equipped masterpieces) and for most watch lovers and collectors, that’s all that really matters. To a point, that’s true. It’s where most of the value of the watch is and if it’s locked in a safe that’s probably all you really care about. But for those of us that actually wear our watches, the importance of a good bracelet can’t be understated. I say bracelet here because as satisfying as a soft, sumptuous leather strap can be – or even a cool canvas NATO number – the metallurgical mastery and ergonomic expertise inherent in bracelets make them another matter entirely. Not only is it the part of your watch you interact with most often, it’s generally the largest, often most visible part. In fact, there are many watches out there that play second fiddle to the interlinked mass of metal that keeps it hugging your wrist, the kind of bracelets that are more than just utilitarian accessories, they’re a feature in and of their own right.

When Breitling relaunched their Chronomat collection last year, I was hoping to see this bracelet re-emerge from the retro ether. I was more than pleasantly surprised. Often referred to as the bullet bracelet for its bandolier-sporting militia looks, it’s comprised of a series of cylindrical ‘rollers’ – which explains the name – and is ergonomic to the point of tactile obsession. It’s sturdier than it looks too, as each link forms part of the next, so while it seems like a series of individual rollers, it has a lot more structural integrity than you might think. You can still find it on vintage Nightflight models and on the current crop of Chronomat pieces. It’s pure 60s and I love it.

[Urban Jurgensen One]

While I do love this independent entry into the increasingly crowded sub-genre of sports luxe, it doesn’t quite have the same fanfare as, say, the Lange Odysseus or the more established Nautilus. What is does have though is that bracelet – which almost makes up for it. Described by the brand as “double shape pointed oval construction”, it’s basically flat, wide links with ovals in-between. It’s similar in many ways to the old Vacheron 222 bracelet, but with the smoother shape it’s less retro, more fluid and the kind of bracelet that makes the Jurgensen One a serious contender with the big dogs.

©Jason Butcher 1989-2019

[Breitling Rouleaux]

[Atelier de Chronometrie AdC8]

FRONT — ask the oracle

[Urban Jurgensen One]

[Moser & Cie Streamliner]

FRONT — ask the oracle

[Vacheron Constantin Overseas]

[Moser & Cie Streamliner]

[Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport]

There are integrated bracelets and then there’s this. The Streamliner Centre Seconds is a stunner with its matrix green dial – or indeed the funky blue of the flyback chronograph version – and the rounded square of a case. Its real secret though (other than Moser’s typically exceptional movements) is the single link bracelet. With its broad, slightly curved links with next to no space between them, the Streamliner bracelet looks like some kind of echo of the case, less attached and more rippling out from the main body of the watch. I can confirm it’s as comfortable as it looks and let’s agree it looks incredibly comfortable. It’s just one of the many reasons I lust after this pair of watches.

[Vacheron Constantin Overseas]

Ever since the 222, each new generation of Vacheron Constantin sports elegance watches has brought with it an updated bracelet, with some serious improvements in-between. The latest is the greatest generation so far, with links made from the tops of the brand’s Maltese cross logo to match the signature notched Overseas bezel. It also has a quick change system which, while not exactly sexy, is more fun to use than it has any right to be. Yes, the rubber strap might suit it better, but with a bracelet this well thought-out, why stray from full metal?

[Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport]

‘Sport’ and ‘Tourbillon’ don’t often go hand-in-hand, but the Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport is more than happy to give it a go. The chunky, 44mm steel watch has a porthole-ish design reminiscent of another high-end sports watch I won’t name right now, but a lot more rounded and tactile. The same goes for its bracelet. The combination of vertical satin-finished central links and their polished, curved edges makes for the kind of light play that’ll have you wrist-rolling with the best of them. It’s an incredible level of attention to detail and turns what could have been a dully standard three-link affair into a three-dimensional thing of beauty.

FRONT — american 1921

WORDS:

KEN KESSLER

HISTORY w i t h a TWIST AS THE AMERICAN 1921 TURNS A CENTURY OLD, KEN KESSLER DISCUSSES THE TIMEPIECE’S CLASSIC APPEAL WITH VACHERON’S CHRISTIAN SELMONI

FRONT — american 1921

The original American 1921 was produced in only 36 examples at the beginning of the 20th century, mostly dedicated to the US market

American writer, clergyman and Renaissance Man, Samuel Parkes-Cadman was a firm fan of the American 1921 as it allowed him to read the time discreetly while preaching

For Christian Selmoni, the Style and Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin, the American 1921 makes available a classic model that had been lost in the mists of time. The original American 1921 was produced in only 36 examples at the beginning of the 20th century, mostly dedicated to the US market; its rarity assured. It had thus become a ‘unicorn’ model for Vacheron collectors. “In 2008, we presented the current version of the model – redesigned with size and proportions adapted to today’s client expectations, however faithful to the spirit of the original one,” said Selmoni. “The 2008 re-interpretation received a fantastic welcome and it became a prominent model within the Vacheron Constantin portfolio. As part of the Historiques collection, the American 1921 has always been manufactured in limited quantities, in order to ensure its exclusivity.” Devotees of the brand know the story, but it is interesting enough to repeat, especially for those curious about the origins of unusual watch designs. The American 1921 was certainly representative of its era, with the automobile on its ascent. The turning of the dial by 45 degrees qualified it for a new genre of sporting timepieces referred to as ‘driving watches’. Many were extreme, with curved cases that almost formed a U, so they could sit on the side of the wrist facing the driver. Vacheron’s solution, however, allowed the driver to glance at the watch without taking his or her eyes off the road, but with the comfort of a regular watch. Because the case was a cushion rather than an extreme ‘curvex’, the original could be worn whatever the occasion. Conceived in 1919, the first edition was a favourite of American writer and clergyman Samuel Parkes-Cadman, a Vacheron Constantin client of note. Parkes-Cadman represented a type of gentleman, a Renaissance Man, who lived a full life bursting with a range of interests. In addition to being an early adopter of the automobile, he was precisely the ideal customer for the watch for his other pursuits: an early champion of racial equality, including the fight against anti-Semitism, and a pioneering clergyman who broadcast his sermons to his listeners via the thennew means of radio. Amusingly, Vacheron Constantin’s researchers noted another function for the angled dial. It allowed Parkes-Cadman “to read the time easily and discreetly while preaching”. Trawling through the Vacheron Constantin archives, the researchers unearthed the origins of this distinctive wristwatch. In 1919, the right-angled version was produced in a run of 24 examples. It was housed in a 31.4mm case featuring soldered gold lugs, while the dial featured bold outlined Arabic numerals in black against a white background. The hands were skeletal ‘cathedral’ types, and the crown and 12 were positioned in the upper right-hand corner.

FRONT — american 1921

For 1921, Vacheron Constantin changed the dial and shifted both its and the crown’s orientation. The 12 and the crown were moved to the upper left-hand corner, while the bold numerals from 1919 were replaced with more elegant Breguet italics and Breguet ‘half-moon’ hands. This second version was produced in two series of six examples each. Vacheron has had a lot of fun since reviving the American 1921 in 2008 by confounding collectors through the release of various dial colours and case materials, some even including the swapping of the crown from right to left. The most dominant features of the ‘standard’ American 1921, however, remain the

To celebrate the American 1921’s first century, 2021 sees three new models, each powered by the in-house manual-winding Calibre 4400 AS From sketch (bottom) to reality (below) the ‘standard’ American 1921’s distinguishing features include the crown at the upper corner of the cushion-shaped case and the 45 degree dial that makes it the ideal driving companion (left)

crown at the upper corner of the cushion-shaped case and a dial turned clockwise by 45 degrees, placing the 12 between the spot where the 1 and 2 would be if positioned conventionally. Its success in 2008 ensured that the American 1921 would maintain a permanent presence in the Vacheron Constantin catalogue. The American 1921’s position in the Historiques collection continues with 2008’s large size model and, as of 2017, a smaller size. In the 13 years since its return, the maison has sustained interest in the American 1921 by producing a series of limited editions, with enough of them having been issued to create a collecting theme of its own. Among the models introduced since 2008, now found only in auctions or via dealers in pre-owned timepieces, are delightful variants that add interesting twists to the original style. The relaunched time-only model of 2008 was accompanied by a severely restricted perpetual calendar which would also reappear in 2012. Much-coveted is 2010’s pink gold 12-piece edition produced for Italian retailer Pisa, while a version with bold numerals, as in the 1919 version, was recreated for 64 clients sold via the New York boutique. This writer dreams about the 2016 platinum version with blue Breguet numerals and hands against a white dial. To celebrate the American 1921’s first century, 2021 sees three new models, each powered by the in-house manual-winding Calibre 4400 AS, with small second dials at the 3. This is located in the lower right-hand corner, owing to the shifting of the dial clockwise by 45 degrees. All three wear Breguet numerals, with indication by Breguet hands, recalling the 1921 model but with the orientation to the right. Two are cased in white gold, with a choice of 40mm and 36.5mm diameters. Their silver dials feature black painted numerals and rail tracks, and are delivered with calf leather straps. The third is from the Collection Excellence Platine, its 40mm platinum case fitted with blue alligator strap. The sand-blasted platinum dial features applied numerals, with hands in white gold. It is limited to 100 examples. Reissuing classics like the American 1921 can be controversial. In an industry obsessed with novelty, it seems too easy. But for collectors who favour a touch of retro, especially those drawn to a vintage look, Selmoni sympathises. When asked if established watch brands are right to reissue their classic models, he explains, “It makes absolute sense for Vacheron Constantin to revisit its iconic or emblematic models from the past. “By doing so, we are showcasing that we were creative and innovative decades, if not centuries ago. Such re-editions also demonstrate the consistency of the Vacheron Constantin style: classic, elegant, sophisticated, and in many occasions offering an additional twist. Such is the case of the American 1921.”

FRONT — art to watch

WORDS:

TRACEY LLEWELLYN

WATCHES AND ART COLLABORATION IS NOTHING NEW IN WATCHES. BUT WITH TIMEPIECES IN PARTNERSHIP WITH ARTISTS, ARCHITECTS AND STREETWEAR ICONS APLENTY, WHY DO THEY WORK? 59

FRONT — art to watch

Watches have long been the grail for designers whose main careers exist outside of horology. Practitioners of fine art, graphic design, animation, product innovation, architecture and tattooing have all been invited to collaborate with the world’s top watchmaking houses, bringing a fresh, new dimension to the contemporary industry. Of course, a high level of artistic craftsmanship has always had its place in watchmaking stretching back to the highly decorated pocket watches of the 16th century. Brands from Patek Philippe to JaegerLeCoultre, Jaquet Droz and Vacheron Constantin have ensured these metiers stay alive, but beyond the traditional enamelling, engraving and gem-setting, recent decades have seen a plethora of new skills appear on dials, cases and straps. From Piaget’s work with Salvador Dalí’s Dalí d’Or coins and Andy Warhol’s Times/5 collaboration with Movado in the 1980s, to the recent unique dials for Bremont by Rolling Stone Ronnie Wood and Alec Monopoly’s (now working with Jacob & Co) TAG Heuer mash-up, art and time seem destined to co-exist.

The watches of Johnny ‘King Nerd’ Dowell have become such hot property that his recent Franck Muller x Bamford x Arsham x King Nerd Casablanca (below) sold out in under an hour. Similarly, the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black (right) also sold out in a matter of hours.

One artist with no worries of running out of commissions is Johnny ‘King Nerd’ Dowell, a 15-year gun-engraver at James Purdey & Sons, who has developed a unique, modern style and has found his services in great demand from the watch world. Since going freelance, Dowell’s incredibly intricate work, taking upwards of 90 hours per watch, has appeared on cases from independent companies including Bamford Watch Company, Linde Werdelin and Urwerk. His recent Franck Muller x Bamford x Arsham x King Nerd Casablanca sold out in under an hour, as did the limited-edition Casio King Nerd x G-Shock – in fact, any watch bearing Dowell’s hallmark is fast becoming a collector’s item. In pop art, Hublot undoubtedly leads the way having spearheaded enough collaborations through its ‘Hublot Loves Art’ collection to fill a gallery. Current partnerships exist with design, typography and tattoo studio Sang Bleu, sculptor Richard Orlinski, street artist Shepard Fairey and painter Marc Ferrero, as well as with the estate of the late Venezuelan Op Artist Carlos Cruz-Diez. Most recently the brand has joined forces with the man known as the ‘Warhol of Japan’, Takashi Murakami, the most commercially and critically successful Japanese artist working today. The first watch from the partnership, the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black, released in January, sold out in a matter of hours. Speaking of the open canvas style of the partnerships, Hublot’s CEO Ricardo Guadalupe says the aim is, “to integrate the art and the philosophy of the artist into the watch. We don’t do a watch inspired by an artist, it is the designer’s reinterpretation of the watch.” Emphasising that the collaborations come about organically, he continues: “We choose [the artists] through encounters. The choice is emotional, not rational. They bring their art, their vision, their creativity. And thanks to open discussions we create timepieces that represent both our universes.” Also boasting a long relationship with the art world, Swatch has partnered with some of the most famous names of our time from Keith Haring to Damian Hirst and, in 2019, a four-legged, curly tailed painter going by the name of Pigcasso. Earlier this year, the programme known as Museum Journeys that began in 2008 and has involved collaborations with some of the world’s top galleries, expanded to bring works from New York’s MoMA to Swatch dials including Vincent Van Gogh’s Starry Night (1889), Gustav Klimt’s Hope, II (1907-08) and Henri Rousseau’s The Dream (1910). At the launch event, MoMA’s deputy director for curatorial affairs Sarah Suzuki said: “These collaborations are really an opportunity to extend an invitation to MoMA to those that may or may not be able to visit us here in Midtown Manhattan. and they’re also a chance to really represent the range of the exhibitions and activities that we have here.”

FRONT — art to watch

Tissot’s re-issued Heritage Memphis design by Ettore Sottsass celebrates his playful approach to colour, abstract shapes and modern materials. Swatch’s Museum Journeys series (below) has seen collaborations with works by Henri Rousseau and Tanadori Yokoo

The watch world has embraced designers and artists – and it’s produced some of the most playful, intriguing and crazy pieces out there The world of animation also provides a deep well of inspiration, stretching back to Ingersoll’s original Mickey Mouse watches that have been reinterpreted over the years by Gérald Genta, Citizen and Gucci, among others. The past 12 months has further seen Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept ‘Black Panther’ Flying Tourbillon, the first in a series of Marvel collaborations, Seiko’s fabulous Studio Ghibli designs, the latest of Omega’s highly covetable ‘Silver Snoopy’ Speedmaster models, Bamford Watch Department’s Popeye GMT and Undone’s joyous Loony Tunes dials. Of course, as a utilitarian object, the wristwatch has always been fair game for product designers, especially those from the Deutsche Werkbund and Bauhaus

FRONT — art to watch

movements. Bauhaus student Max Bill famously designed for Junghans, creating prototypes that are still in production today, Braun’s most enduring designs are straight from the drawing board of German industrial designer Dieter Rams, while the Nomos aesthetic also stays true to these arts and crafts roots. A 1980s’ design movement that is starting to gain recognition, the Memphis Group began in Milan with the work of Ettore Sottsass and his experimentation with colourful, abstract shapes and modern composite materials. As well as furniture, lighting, fabrics and various objet, Sottsass turned his talent to watchmaking, designing for Tissot, which has for 2021 re-issued the designs in small limited editions. Tissot’s Swatch Group stablemate Rado is a name that is synonymous with cool design, having collaborated with some of the world’s best, as well as many up and coming designers from Jasper Morrison and Ross Lovegrove to Bethan Gray and Evgenia Miro. It also sponsors the Rado Star Prize competitions around the world and has worked with Les Couleurs Suisse, the company that controls who is allowed to use the colours from architect Le Corbusier’s Architectural Polychromy. Le Corbusier was also the inspiration for three watches made by Girard-Perregaux in 2012. The Le Corbusier Trilogy, celebrated the great architect’s work in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Paris and Marseille. The limitededition Vintage 1945 watches featured dial representations of Le Corbusier’s work in brushed and engraved steel, mother-of pearl marquetry and concrete. More recently, Bulgari – a brand that owes many of its designs to the classical architecture of Rome, and one that has expanded its signature style into 21stcentury hotels – has also collaborated with architects in its watches and jewellery. The Zaha Hadid B.zero1 ring in 2016 was one of her final projects before her death and involved uniting two very different styles to create a piece of jewellery in perfect harmony. And following the success of its Japan-only, 2019 limited-edition, titanium and carbon Octo Finissimos made with Tadao Ando, the house has this year created a worldwide Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Limited Edition. A 40mm, time-only watch in black ceramic with midnight-blue dial, the face is said to represent a black hole. Engraved concentric circles spiral out from the off-set seconds hand at 7 o’clock, while to the right, a gold crescent moon is held in its own orbit, avoiding being sucked into the abyss of the sub-dial. Whether it’s the embracing of pop culture icons, the reproduction of famous works in timepiece form or simply the sheer creativity that comes through collaboration, the watch world has fully embraced designers and artists from other fields – and it’s produced some of the most playful, intriguing and sometimes downright crazy pieces out there.

Swatch’s The Red Shiny Line pays tribute to Piet Mondrian (top, left) alongside Rado and Evgenia Miro’s True Thin Line My Bird. Undone’s joyous Looney Tunes dial (above) and Rado’s Bethan Gray collaboration (right)

FRONT — art in time

IKEPOD

X Tom Christopher

With their incredibly tactile round cases and extra-terrestrial style, Ikepod’s been a favourite of the style conscious since the 90s and the Megapod has proven itself a seriously appealing canvas to work on. Enter Tom Christopher, who has leveraged his unique, urban style to create a stunning, Inception-esque cityscape around the edge of the dial. Interspersed with a mix of skaters and birds, it’s colourful, joyous and makes perfect use of the Megapod’s impressive dimensions. It’s New York on a wristwatch and it’s hard not to love. THE DETAIL • 46mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Miyota 9039 Movement with 42-hour power reserve • £1,270, limited to 200 pieces, ikepod.com

Any well-made watch is a work of art in a way, with the attention to detail and skill necessary to built a fine timepiece. Then there are those that take things in a much more literal direction. Sure, it’s a small canvas to work with, but a watch dial can be a pretty apt space for a splash of creative flair. As you can see overleaf, there’s more than a few watches out there that take inspiration from and are created in collaboration with designers, architects and painters aplenty. We however thought we’d turn to the creative world of microbrands and highlight some of the lesser known out there, from cool, under-the-radar collaborations to exquisite artisan crafts.

ART i n TIME THE CANVAS IS SMALLER AND THE AUDIENCE ISN’T AS WIDE, BUT A CREATIVE MOB OF MICROBRANDS IS DETERMINED TO ENSURE ARTISTIC FLAIR ISN’T RESERVED FOR GALLERY WALLS

FRONT — art in time

ALEXANDER SHOROKHOFF Kandy Avantgarde 2

The original 2019 run of this German-designed watch sold out incredibly quickly and it’s not hard to see why. With its swirls and stripes of colour, eye-catching doesn’t begin to do it justice. Neither does the term Avant Garde for that matter. If you’re after a watch that stands out of the crowd, look no further. Backed by a cal.2892 ETA. Movement and a cool, blacked-out, PVD case it’s as solid as it is fun. The only downside is that it’s a pretty small limited edition, so get in there quick if you don’t want to miss out on this second run. Who knows when there’ll be a next?

THE DETAIL 41mm PVD stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • ETA 2892 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • Euro 3,290 (approx. £2,860), limited to 100 pieces, en.alexander-shorokhoff.de

•

MR JONES

THE DETAIL •

A Perfectly Useless Afternoon

37mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

A perfectly accessible timepiece for a perfectly useless afternoon, British designer Mr Jones’s best-seller is, quite possibly, the ultimate casual summer timepiece. Designed by Belgian illustrator Kristof Devos, the watch is an ode to poolside relaxation, the time read by the leg dangling in the water. Paired with unusually long lugs and a rather lovely strap, it’s a cool, quirky watch, the type we don’t even mind being quartz. The downside? We’re far too British to look at this watch and not itch to put some sun cream on.

•

Quartz movement •

£175, mrjoneswatches.com

FRONT — art in time

SHINOLA

Silly Putty Detrola

Coming at creativity from the angle of an overexcited, sugared-up six-year-old, Detroit-based brand Shinola has harnessed everyone’s favourite amorphous blob to create this eyecatching combination of cherry red, coral and aqua. It’s bold and not just because of the colours; at 43mm it’s a big watch, all built around a resin case with stainless steel core. Rose-tinted doesn’t even come into it. If, according to MB&F, creativity is a child that survived, this is an adult that’s regressed… and we love it.

THE DETAIL • 43mm TR90 resin case with 50m water resistance • Argonite 705 quartz movement • $395 (Approx. £290), shinola.com

ZANETTI

Scuba Micropainting Blue Stormy

For most watchmakers a practical tool watch doesn’t exactly go hand-in-hand with an artistic medium as demanding as micropainting. Evidently Italian brand Zanetti are not most watchmakers. The 41mm stainless steel case is of chunky diving proportions, complete with over 500m water resistance, which makes the epic image of a sailing ship tearing through the waves all the more apt. Combined with a shimmering bezel in ocean blue and yellow highlights and backed by a solid automatic movement, the Suba Art Micropainting is a watch of stunning contrasts.

THE DETAIL • 41mm stainless steel case with 550m water resistance • Swiss calibre automatic movement • zannetti.com

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It’s bold and not just because of the colours

STYLE — photoshoot

Yes, Zoom cocktail parties were an interesting novelty, but thank God the promise of actual nightlife is being dangled by the powers that be. And after a hard year, it comes as no surprise that the kind of people that call these things are predicting that people will be keen to party hard too. The post-pandemic decade is already being dubbed the new Roaring Twenties, defined by decadence and dressing up. Of course, great parties deserve great outfits cut from the finest materials. Whether you’re slipping into black tie for an evening out or simply headed to the pub, swaddle yourself in luxurious fabrics to celebrate being free once more: you deserve silks, cashmeres and Sea Island cottons in as many social situations as possible - not to mention a rakish Art Deco inspired bit of wrist action to go with it. Pop the champagne! Learn whatever the ‘now’ version of the Charleston is! Welcome to your new, opulent, post-lockdown wardrobe.

Welcome t o t h e n e w Roaring Twenties Styling: NICK CARVELL

Photography: FRASER VINCENT & TOM PETTIT

STYLE — photoshoot

BLACK TIE DOESN’T HAVE TO BE BLACK - BUT IT DOES HAVE TO BE SILK

Silk dinner jacket, £3,850. Tuxedo shirt, £405. Silk bow tie, £130. Trousers, £540. Teddy slippers, £480. All by Ralph Lauren Purple Label. ralphlauren.co.uk Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 £31,200, vacheron-constantin.com

STYLE — photoshoot

DRESS UP FOR DATE NIGHT

Wool and Sea Island cotton suit jacket, £3,240. Wool and Sea Island cotton suit trousers, £1,160. T-shirt, £340. All by Brunello Cucinelli. brunellocucinelli.com. Trainers by Roscomar, £200. roscomar.com

STYLE — photoshoot

Longines DolceVita Art Deco £1,350, longines.com

STYLE — photoshoot

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Green £7,200, jaeger-lecoultre.com

STYLE — photoshoot

GO FOR BOLD AT THE BAR

Jacquard dinner jacket by Simon LLoyd Fish, £2,700. simonlloydfish.com. Sea Island cotton T-shirt by Sunspel, £140. sunspel.com. Velvet slippers by Edward Green, £390. edwardgreen.com

STYLE — photoshoot

Fears Brunswick Salmon £2,625, fearswatches.com

STYLE — photoshoot

GET PLUSH FOR THE PUB

Cashmere joggers, £399. Cashmere polo shirt, £215. Cotton jumper, £125. All by Johnstons of Elgin. johnstonsofelgin.com. Trainers by Roscomar, £185. roscomar.com

STYLE — photoshoot

KEEP THE PARTY GOING BEYOND BEDTIME Cotton and silk pyjamas, £495. Unlined Silk dressing gown, £1,250. Silk slippers, £350. All by New & Lingwood. newandlingwood.com

STYLE — photoshoot

Cartier Tank Must Monochrome £2,490, cartier.com

STYLE — opener

Style 82/ Your summer shirt should be a work of art 89/ Brighten up, man

STYLE — art for shirts sake

NEIGHBORHOOD One Of These Days Camp-Collar Printed Woven Shirt £525

STYLE — art for shirts sake

ONE OF THE HIGHLIGHTS of going backstage at a fashion show is the electric energy - the hustle and bustle of models and fitters and make-up artists, and the thrill of knowing that, for a few brief minutes, you are one of only a handful of people in the world who knows what’s about to be seen on the catwalk. Of course, as a menswear journalist, the reason I was one of the privileged few allowed behind the velvet rope (or, more usually, hastily tacked-up plastic tarp) to get the inside scoop on the creative director’s inspiration for the collection - a challenging prospect in a crowded, noisy space that I can only liken to a trading floor in a 1980s stockbroking movie, just with better hair. While waiting, I would scour the area for any additional clues as to the designer’s thought process in putting the collection together, inevitably drifting towards their moodboard. Seen in most backstage areas, this often human-sized pinboard transposed from the designer’s studio shows the evolution of the collection from inception to execution, filled with swatches, quotes, models’ polaroids, sketches and, inevitably, a few pictures of stylish men from history that have served to spark his or her imagination. Frequently, these stylish men were artists: Basquait, Warhol, Hockney, Haring, Pollock. During his heyday at Burberry, Christopher Bailey dedicated an entire collection to the style and aesthetic sensibility of Henry Moore - a line that was inspired as equally by what the sculptor wore in his workshop as it was by the undulating works he produced. There’s a reason why the way artists dress continue to inspire designers, as well as mere mortals like you and me. Artists have all that rebelliousness and devil-may-care attitude of a rockstar, but there’s an added layer of vulnerability and honesty to the way an artist dresses. Often the way they dress is a direct reflection of their view of the world - a continuation of the canvas they’re working on. For example, Jean-Michel Basquiat frequently crops up on male style icon lists for his penchant for painting in expensive Armani suits. Yes, the man was interested in the fashion world (he even walked in a couple of

Albam Miles Camp-Collar Printed Cotton Shirt £120

Issey Miyake shows in the late 1980s), but the reason he chose to wear expensive European designer suits went far beyond aesthetics. As a black American graffiti artist from humble beginnings selling to a moneyed, overwhelmingly white audience, these suits were also a comment on how he was having to present himself to gain favour in an art world that was non-black and Euro-centric. His suits were a comment on his experience of race in America and the world beyond - something the art and poetry he produced also heavily focused on. However, herein lies the problem when a man who’s not an artist tries to dress like an artist. The way an artist dresses inherently reflects their work. Without that authenticity of purpose, it can all seem a bit hollow.

Words: NICK CARVELL

YOUR SUMMER SHIRT SHOULD BE A WORK OF ART Make summer your own gallery and flaunt a broad palette of artistic inspired colour

STYLE — art for shirts sake

DOLCE & GABBANA Camp Collar Striped Silk Shirt £895

STYLE — art for shirts sake

KAPITAL Bob Marley Embroidered Cotton-Chambray Shirt £825

STYLE — art for shirts sake

JACQUEMUS Oversized Camp-Collar Printed Woven Shirt £245

STYLE — art for shirts sake

Whether you’re a longsleeve or short-sleeve guy, surrealist stan or photography fan, there’s a summer shirt out there for you

DRIES VAN NOTEN Len Lye Checked Twill Shirt £430

MR P. Camp-Collar Printed Cotton Shirt £165

MARNI Printed Cotton-Poplin Shirt £335

So what’s the alternative? It’s dressing not like the artist, but like their canvas. And, quite frankly, there’s never been a better time to try it. With the sun ever more of a presence in the sky, the transition from April to May is always a joyous time of year here in the UK. Couple that with a year of lockdowns and a severely restricted social orbit, and I’m seeing that people on the street are positively giddy about being out and about once again - I’ve already seen men in shorts in my local park and the weather’s still in single figures. Rather than fight it with trademark British cynicism, I say it’s time to embrace this slightly bonkers start to the summer, and the best way to do it is with a shirt inspired by your favourite artwork. Whether you’re a long-sleeve or short-sleeve guy, surrealist stan or photography fan, there’s a summer shirt out there for you this season. While streetwear brands might lead the way with pastels and big, bold landscapes (see: Amiri and Neigborhood), what’s really surprising is that we’re seeing painterly prints and graphic inspiration across the board. Take Dolce & Gabbana’s paint-striped short-sleever or Marni’s pink-splattered graffiti number or Jaquemus’s Haring-vibing brushstroke motifs. Even big brands like Club Monaco are producing sketchy floral shirts this season, not to mention workwear brands like Oliver Spencer and Albam, whose patchwork shirts nod to the current quilting craft revival on the art scene. There’s plenty of joyful designed out there to choose from, whatever your sartorial or artistic preference, so all that’s left to say is get on it. Forget about the world being your catwalk: right now it’s your canvas.

STYLE — must-haves

Look, you’ve been wearing black joggers for over a year now, it’s time to jazz things up a bit. Celebrate stepping tentatively back into life as we used to know it by adding some colour to your armoury. Don’t worry, I’m not talking about going crazy with it. This season, many labels are remaking some of the most essential menswear items in zingier, summer-ier shades. Whether you’re keen on keeping things more conservative with greens or creams or going for bold with pinks or yellows, slip a few of these pieces into your regular rotation this sun season - or, if you’re feeling it, go for a totally tonal shade head-to-toe. The world is, once again, your oyster.

edit: NICK CARVELL

brighten up, man

GREEN

I like to think of green as 'the other navy'. Supremely wearable, green complements all skin tones and is adept at fitting in nicely with the rest of your wardrobe (especially whites, pale blues, greys, beiges and, of course, denim). It puzzles me why it often fails to flash up on men’s radars, but this season there are plenty of shades to suit on the rails - so you can’t miss it.

STYLE — must-haves

UNIQLO X JW ANDERSON,

NEW BALANCE,

> British designer JW Anderson’s collaboration with Uniqlo gets better season after season. His latest features sun-tastic crisp colours and floral motifs. While there isn’t a single item I wouldn’t say no to, this pistachio-green polo with subtle flower embroidery on the chest is a real summer standout. £19.90, UNIQLO.COM

> Invented in 2001 and made famous as Steve Jobs’ trainer of choice, the New Balance 991 has become something of an icon over the past two decades. Recently the silhouette has had a sleek makeover as a part of the American sneaker-maker’s Made in UK line (crafted in their Cumbria factory) with this model, featuring leather and suede patches in green, claret red and sand. £190, NEWBALANCE.CO.UK

“

The New Balance 991 has become something of an icon over the past two decades

THOM SWEENEY,

> Just off Savile Row, London tailoring house Thom Sweeney continues to produce the kind of wear-anywhere staples that hit right at the centre of the smart-casual crosshair. This pleasingly chunky deck stripe shirt with a cheeky mini Cuban collar would look as good with white jeans and sneakers in the city as it would with a pair of tailored shorts at Soho Farmhouse, cocktail in hand. £260, THOMSWEENEY.COM

OCTOBRE EDITIONS,

> If your eyes are still adjusting to sunlight exposure once again, you’re going to need some protection. Fresh in from France, this multicoloured cap from Octobre Editions will have you covered (quite literally) whatever you’re planning to wear while soaking up those rays.

£60, OCTOBRE-EDITIONS.COM

STYLE — must-haves

OFFICINE GENERALE ,

> Remember all those articles over lockdown about the death of the suit? Well, in offices that might be true, but outside of that they’re making a big comeback. Workwear twopieces are going to be your summer going-out staple. This relaxed-cut number from Paris-based label Officine Generale is a real what-everthe-occasion winner. JACKET, £271. TROUSERS, £200. OFFICINEGENERALE.COM

DRAKE’S,

> Drake’s seasonal remix of its signature ‘D’ shirt is fast becoming one of my menswear highlights every six months. This time, it’s had a colourful, collegiate-style revamp in blue, beige and pink, inspired by American 1950s letterman jackets. They might look superb, but they also feel superb - each is crafted from lightweight cotton-cashmere crew neck, perfect for *sigh* those summer niiiiiiiii-iiiiiights. £395, DRAKES.COM

No matter how bold you’re feeling, pink is a supremely versatile colour to add to your wardrobe. And before you go thinking that I’m recommending heading out for a DiCaprio-in-Gatsby pink three-piece, let me assure you that, in my opinion, pink is best deployed as a pop within an otherwise more neutral outfit. Plus I don’t think there’s a bad shade to choose. Get those Mediterranean travel vibes with terracotta, rip up the rulebook with rose, feel plush in pastel - it’s all good.

PINK 92

STYLE — must-haves

FLAX LONDON,

PALM BAY SKATES,

> I’ve made no secret of my love for Camberwell-based linen-crafters Flax London. While the label’s USP is making a series of staples that are available permanently, I’m always intrigued to see what new colours creep onto the books in addition to their trad green, blue and beige. This season it’s terracotta, a colour that transforms this classic mid-weight (5oz) linen smock into a must-have summer essential. £110, FLAXLONDON.COM

> Considering a skater’s unofficial uniform is cropped trousers and low-tops, it’s no wonder that skate brands have become such bastions of jazzy socks. For proof, look no further than Margate's Palm Bay Skates. Based in the town’s vibey Cliftonville neighbourhood, the brand’s USP is embroidery, inspired by both 1950s Americana and the seaside - these pastel pink shell socks being an excellent example. £12, PALMBAYSKATES.COM

A DAY’S MARCH,

> There are few items that scream “I’m on holiday” more than a terry cloth shirt. Immortalised by James Bond in Dr No, this new pink take on a perennial poolside favourite comes courtesy of Swedish label A Day’s March. If you can’t get abroad for a break this year, this is the shirt you need to bring those vacation vibes here to home turf. £75, ADAYSMARCH.COM

CUTLER & GROSS,

> Pink to make whoever you want wink. Not you, though. These blush pink acetate shades from Cutler and Gross are fitted with beautiful brown lenses that provide 100% UV protection. If you want a pair, shake a leg - there are only 100 pairs exclusivity at mrporter.com. £320, MRPORTER.COM

PERCIVAL

> If you’re the sort of chap who gets stressed that they’re going to spill something on light trousers, these slacks from Percival are just what you need. With an elasticated waist and straight cut, these trousers are relaxed enough to make up for your overthinking when you’re sitting down and reaching out for that cappuccino. Aaaaaand breathe. £110, PERCIVALCLO.COM

OFFWHITE

Sometimes the freshest colour for summer is no colour. Well, kind of. Neutrals - items in off-white, cream and beige - make excellent, easy swap-outs for your existing favourites. Not only will these shades reflect the sun and make you stand out, but merely wearing them shows you’ve committed to summer weather from here on out. Nothing says “I’m not expecting rain today” than a pair of crisp white trousers

OLIVER SPENCER

> A breezy take on a stone cold classic. This Harrington-style bomber by British tailoring titan Oliver Spencer is cut from a lightweight Portuguese cotton and linen blend in a beautiful shade of cream that feels just as rebellious to wear as one cut from leather - just a helluva lot less sweat inducing in the height of summer. £329, OLIVERSPENCER.CO.UK

STYLE — must-haves

HOLZWEILER,

“

> As sage songstress Vanessa Williams once warbled: “Sometimes the snow comes down in June”. Even if it’s just a light rain shower or simply an extra bit of protection from a chilly breeze, there comes a time when a man might need a little added protection over the summer months - and, for that, you need one of these new super lightweight Zepha macs from Norweigan streetwear label Holzweiler. £303, HOLZWEILEROSLO.COM

Perhaps the ultimate expression of confidence in the weather

GRENSON,

> Due to its cat-like hatred of water, a suede loafer is perhaps the ultimate expression of confidence in the weather that day. Choosing a pair in a 'hidesno-secrets' shade of beige is therefore next level sun confidence. Wearing your pair for the first time should make you smile - it’s proof that summer is officially here. Slip ‘em on and get out there. £280, GRENSON.COM

NATIVE SONS,

> Native Sons' sunglasses are handmade in Japan using acetate derived from cotton oil, a natural material that doesn't involve harmful chemicals. If that’s the kind of transparency you’re into, then this clear acetate version of the brand’s Boris shades, fitted with lighter-than-light brown lenses, will most certainly suit. £355, MRPORTER.COM

UNIVERSAL WORKS,

> Light and breezy in shirt form, this short-sleever has a distinct workwear vibe thanks to its prominent double breast pockets and straight hem. And the golden yellow shade is about as summery as it gets. £105, UNIVERSALWORKS.CO.UK

YELLOW

Yellow tends to get a bad rep as one of those impossible-to-wear colours, but the trick to nailing it is mastering which shade or shades work for you. As a general rule those with paler complexions will better suit darker, warmer shades (think mustard, egg yolk, that sort of thing) whereas those with darker complexions should go for fresher, cooler shades (lemon, sherbert, pastel). Either way, there’s never been a better time to do a bit of research and give it a go - as one of the trending colours of the season, there’s a shade for every guy out there right now.

STYLE — must-haves

LOUIS MORAIS,

CLAE,

> Designed in LA, it’s hardly surprising that Clae often draws its inspiration from the beautiful and varied landscapes of the City of Angels. However, its latest California Pack branches further afield, taking the whole state as its canvas. I am a fan of the yellow tab at the back of the white Bradley sneaker - a shade the company calls 'pale banana', which I can only hope is a nod to quite possibly the best university mascot in the world: University of California Santa Cruz’s Banana Slug (seriously, look it up). £120, CLAE.EU

> Want something in a seasonably appropriate colour to complement your watch? This eye-catching 14-karat gold, bead and diamond bracelet from Brazilian men’s jewellery expert Luis Morais is exactly the sort of wrist action you’re looking for. £145, MRPORTER.COM

FOLK

> This t-shirt is full-on sitting in a deckchair at the seaside with a 99 in the best possible way. And while I think it’s begging to be worn with shorts and a bucket hat, it would also look fantastic with a pair of jeans. £60, FOLKCLOTHING.COM

11.11 / ELEVEN ELEVEN,

> Renowned for its use of indigenous cotton, 100% natural dyes and heritage craft techniques 11.11 / Eleven Eleven makes its clothes in small-batches in collaboration with artisans all across India. The result? Relaxed, summer-perfect fits with stories to tell. This mustard-yellow shirt, for example, is dyed using a Bandhani technique dating back to 4000 BC - and it still looks fresh today. £330, MATCHESFASHION.COM

STYLE — must-haves

SUMMER IN A BOTTLE

edit: NICK CARVELL

Editor’s picks

A few new and noteworthy items for your sartorial consideration this month

GET A BRAND NEW BAG

Whether you were headed to work out after clocking off or collecting the kids from nursery, you were already carrying a lot with you in everyday life. Then the pandemic hit and now, as we return to some form of normality, you need to remember even more (“where the hell did I leave the hand sanitiser?!”). In short, you need a good bag now more than ever - and Ruskin London makes some great ones. Its Quentin model, pictured here, is a next-level tote: smart enough to take to a meeting with clients (thanks to its tweed body and sleek leather trim) but with enough space to pack your laptop, gym kit and an emergency face mask or five. £660, RUSKINLONDON.COM

“

It makes vision appear crisper and more defined - a bit like wearing an instagram filter

Not content with making the most comfortable lounge gear and underwear around, Sunspel is now making waves in the fragrance world. Having teamed up with legendary perfumer Lyn Harris on its first scent, Oak Wood, last year, the pair have collaborated once again on its sublimely summery sequel, Neroli Sun (which has just dropped online and in store). Inspired by summer in the English countryside, it blends mouthwateringly crisp citruses with aromatic rosemary and lavender, while green notes of vetiver and moss bubble underneath. An infinitely wearable sun-season scent that’ll make you smile as soon as you spray it. £90 FOR 100ML, SUNSPEL.COM

ON YER BIKE… OR NOT

While we might be going out in town again, the idea of getting on an enclosed bus or tube train still doesn’t feel like the most attractive way of getting there. If you’re taking to two wheels for your transportation needs, look into the commuter gear from Swedish cycle brand, SIGR. Of particular note are these Strandvägen shorts, which have bike-essential benefits such as added stretch and reflective pocket flaps, but are a far sleeker (and more socially acceptable) alternative than skin-tight lycra for post-cycle situations. £61, SIGR.CC

LIFE, FILTERED

Inspired by the golden age of American cars, there’s no disputing that these Boron frames by Serengeti Eyewear look great - but what really sets them apart are the lenses. They’re infused with 'photochromic' technology which adapts to any light condition, activated by the amount of UV radiation in the atmosphere. In bright conditions, UV radiation is more intense so the lens molecules expand and darken the lenses so less light can then pass through. In darker conditions, UV radiation is less intense so the molecules shrink and separate to allow more light to pass through. It also makes vision appear crisper and more defined - a bit like wearing an Instagram filter that changes to ensure whatever you’re seeing looks its best. £350, SERENGETI-EYEWEAR.COM

STYLE — sirplus ss21

Words: SAM KESSLER

SIRPLUS SS21

Inspired by tropical climes, the new SIRPLUS range is a poolside essential

EVER SINCE HENRY HALES upcycled his first pair of boxers from the off-cuttings of a few shirtmakers, SIRPLUS has been on the up and up. Celebrating their first decade last year, the original Portobello Road market stall has become seven Central London stores; the brand has established partnerships, environmental charities and local artists and, most importantly, expanded above and beyond boxers. A good part of that appeal over the years has been the kind of innate quirkiness you’d expect from a brand like SIRPLUS, with cool, quirky elements like jokey ties and eye-catching prints. However, all of those bits can only exist

Best accompanied by a cocktail, the Story Island shirt (above) is made with Tana Lawn cotton from Liberty covered in handillustrated myths, fables, plays and poems

100

because of a stable of seriously wellmade, considered wardrobe staples. For SS21 SIRPLUS is helping us forget for a second or two that travel is an impossibility with some fantastic lightweight, warm-weather shirtings inspired by tropical climes. That means the big, oversized collars and bold prints of Cuban shirts, practical and lightweight but still very much the fashion statement. Sunshine yellow, sage green and an absolutely fantastic toucan print, they’re eye-catching, breathable and most importantly, fun. Our favourite is the Story Island shirt, which uses Tana Lawn cotton from Liberty covered in hand-illustrated myths, fables, plays and poems. Open at the collar over tailored shorts, it’s a look that demands a bit of summertime jazz and a daiquiri. For something a little more subtle yet no less lightweight, look to a SIRPLUS signature, the humble Grandad shirt. The cool, collarless style is a mainstay of the label’s collections no matter the season but here particularly suits the linen, seersucker and cashmere constructions in pale springtime pastels. A versatile twist on your usual warm weather shirt, they range from more formal oxfords to sandy-coloured cotton numbers, perfect for the beach. Of course, the summer range still includes plenty of staple shirts with collars of less Miami sizes, again in plenty of cashmere for that soft, breathable feel, along with a selection of solid, more hardwearing overshirts for that extra layer when evening’s beginning to settle in – including a particularly cool zigzag-weave cotton blend number, complete with sustainable corozo nut buttons. It might be a while before we can actually go anywhere with warm weather for more than a week in July, but that doesn’t mean you can’t expand your summer wardrobe. You can’t be wearing a heavy winter shirt in the warmer months and formal numbers have gone out the window with the new working from home normal. Plus, it’s not the end of the world if they don’t get all the wear this year; SIRPLUS clothes are designed to last, and last they shall, even if you wear your new Cuban shirt at every opportunity.

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 39mm platinum case with 50m water resistance • Audemars Piguet calibre 2121 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • £96,000, audemarspiguet.com

HANDS-ON WITH THE

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK EXTRA-THIN JUMBO 15202 GREEN

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FRONT — watch reviews

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FRONT — watch reviews

I’m often not as enamoured by modern Royal Oaks as some collectors. Sure, the Offshore is cool, but given its chunky proportions I always find it a bit much on the wrist. The same even goes for some of the larger, standard Royal Oaks. In fact, there’s only one version I’d own in a second without any issues: the 15202. As far as I’m concerned, it’s the perfect size and its ultrathin silhouette makes for a more subtle timepiece that can actually fit under a cuff. I’m not saying I wouldn’t show it off – I definitely would – but I like having the option. The only problem is that I’m not the only person that adores the 15202. The successor to the original Royal Oak Jumbo is one of the most sought-after watches in the world, up there with the Nautilus and Daytona when it comes to its wait list. Throw in a downright lovely new dial and you have a watch that dedicated AP collectors will happily fight to the death over. This year’s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin Jumbo is one of the standout pieces of Watches & Wonders which, given the horological heritage and mechanical mastery on display from the world’s biggest watchmakers, is really saying something, all thanks to its new green dial. The last time the Jumbo had a dial this bold it was the rose gold (salmon by any other name) boutique edition in 2019 and here it’s more than a colourful twist. Gone is the collection’s signature grid Grand Tapisserie guilloche in favour of a beautiful smoked green number. The colour isn’t as bold as some Royal Oaks have sported in the past, which is a good part of its charm. It’s dark enough to venture into subtlety but shimmers in the right exposure. It’s not just green, it’s the green other watches are green with envy over. While the more minimal dial lets the colour speak for itself, the case is a heavyweight. I mean that literally; the full platinum case and bracelet is a hefty chunk of metal, definitely the kind of thing you’ll need to get used to wearing. In the time I had it, I never for one second forgot that I had it on my wrist. All the same, it’s as exceptionally over-engineered as ever, with that famous octagonal bezel and alternating brushed and polished finishes making the most of the incredible faceted shape. If anyone ever wonders aloud why the Royal Oak is so legendary a design, point them towards this. Genta’s somewhere up there nodding approvingly. Special mention has to go to the bracelet, which has always been one of the best in the business and this model is no exception. The combination of full width and smaller links helps it sit nicely on the wrist – and of course adds some extra heft to the whole thing. Despite the weight, it does still live up to its Extra-Thin moniker, measuring in at 8.1mm thick. That’s almost entirely down to the movement, the superlative calibre 2121. It’s a

The successor to the Royal Oak Jumbo is one of the most sought-after watches in the world, up there with the Nautilus and Daytona 105

sight to behold through the sapphire caseback, where you can appreciate what a 3.05mm tall movement really looks like. That thinness makes its 40 hour power reserve not too shabby at all. Of course, all this doesn’t come cheap. This ultra-thin chunk of platinum and prestige will set you back £96,000. Just be aware that it’s only available through Audemars Piguet houses and there will, most likely, be a wait list. It’s not limited though so you do have time to save up for your new grail watch. £96,000, audemarspiguet.com

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 41mm case with 100m water resistance • BR-CAL.301 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • £4,300, limited to 250 pieces, bellross.com

HANDS-ON WITH THE

BELL & ROSS BR V2-94 VINTAGE FULL LUM

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A little luminescence goes a long way. Generally, the glowing, ghostly stuff is used to highlight very specific elements on very specific watches for very specific reasons i.e., the key numbers of a diving watch so you don’t drown. Occasionally though, it’s a little more than a utilitarian light show. A few watchmakers have made a feature of lume over the years, perhaps most recently Christopher Ward in their Glow series. Even then though, they can’t hold a Superluminova candle to what Bell & Ross has been doing since the BR 0392 HOROLUM way back in 2017. Last year Bell & Ross added to the line with a blacked-out version of their BR 03-92 Diver, with its signature, cockpitinspired square shape and a clandestine look. Except of course that the entire dial was made from lume. Stealthy it was not. In fact, it was a light show and one of the watchmaker’s wildest pieces of 2020 for it. Now, amid the glut of releases around Watches & Wonders, they’re adding another bright spot, this time with the BR V2-94 Vintage Full Lum. From the offset I knew I was going to love this watch. Firstly, I adored the previous Full Lum. We had it into the Oracle Time offices for a shoot and it was a serious standout. Secondly, I’ve always been a fan of Bell & Ross’ round watches as opposed to the squared instruments that have come to define them. The BR V2-92 in particular has a lovely vintage feel to it and the previous beige-dialled model has an incredibly cool military feel to it, particularly on the canvas strap. This new edition basically replaces that beige with not one, but two types of luminescent material. The main body of the dial is your usual pale green lume, the kind of ghostly glow we all know and love on divers everywhere. The skeletonized numerals, indices, hands, and counters on the other hand are filled with pale yellow lume. On paper that sounds like a jarring contrast but as you can see from our shots, it’s a lot more subtle than you might think. In the light, you can barely tell. In fact, it just looks like a slightly tinted take on that lovely beige dial, a touch unusual but still vintage feeling. In the dark, when the entire dial comes alive, there’s just enough contrast between the counter and main dial to differentiate, but not enough to be an eyesore. It’s a clever way of doing things, but I’d have actually liked a little more contrast, perhaps by leaving the subcounters un-lumed for a ghost-panda effect rather than another colour of material. Then though they would have to drop the ‘Full’ from the name and then where would we be? Either way I love just how idiosyncratically inventive it is to see a supposedly retro watch with enough lume to denote a sunken nuclear submarine.

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Inside is the BR-CAL.301 automatic chronograph, complete with a 40-hour power reserve. It’s perfectly functional and runs the counters nice and smoothly, but it’s nothing too spectacular. And why would it be? The main event is front and centre. As with previous Full Lum models (and yes, by now the lack of an ‘e’ is getting to me), the BR V2-94 Vintage Full Lum is a limited edition, this time of 250 pieces and comes on a tropic strap. Priced at £4,300, it’s definitely on my list of potential buys post Watches & Wonders. Not only do you get a solid, retro watch, you get a nightlight thrown in, too. £4,300, limited to 250 pieces, bellross.com

P h o t o

F e a t u r e

BRUTAL ISM

FRONT — beautiful brutalism

Words:

sam kessler

HIDDEN FROM THE ROMANTIC GAZE THAT SOME OF THE CAPITAL’S BUILDINGS ATTRACT BRUTALISM’S DYSTOPIAN UTILITARIANISM MIGHT NOT BE AROUND TO SAVOUR MUCH LONGER

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London is a city of contrasts and for every curvaceous, flowing construction of glass and steel, there’s one of blocky, monolithic proportions, the kind of structure that makes up the real concrete jungle. While many of the former get celebrated in all their shining glory, for us it’s Brutalist buildings of the 60s and 70s that have come to define London. The stark, functionalist architectural style is like nothing else out there, equal parts utilitarian beauty and dystopian utilitarianism. Yet while they are indeed spectacular, many of these buildings might not be long for this world. As photographer Jo Underhill puts it, “Unfortunately, a few of the buildings I’ve photographed have now gone and many from this era are dismissed as ugly or unfit so demolished without much thought or public outcry that so many great buildings are being lost. As well as a visual documentation of these buildings I want my photographs to show how well made, stunning and beautiful they are.” So to make sure we gave Brutalist architecture in London the platform it deserves, we enlisted a trio of photographers that have captured some of the capital’s most architecturally significant buildings in all their glory. Alongside Jo Underhill (structuraleye. co.uk) we have creator of photographic book Brutal London, amongst many others, Simon Phipps (simonphipps. co.uk) and Instagram account @ brutalist_citizen, who’s also known as Hayley Goodwin, We encourage you to go and support their work and, if one of these shots particularly catches your eye, nab a print or two.

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designed by Denys Lasdun & Partners, built 1957-59, photographed by Simon Phipps, simonphipps.co.uk 6. Trellick Tower, Ernő Goldfinger, Built 1972, photographed by Hayley Goodwin, @brutalist_citizen 7. Thamesmead, GLC Department of Architecture & Civic Design, built 1967-1974, photographed by Jo Underhill, structuraleye.co.uk 8. Glenkerry House, Ernő Goldfinger, built 1972-1977, photographed by Hayley Goodwin, @brutalist_citizen 9. Southbank Centre ‘yellow stairwell’, Ron Herron, Dennis Crompton and Warren Chalk, built 1951, Restored and Redesigned 2018, Feilden Clegg Bradley Studios, photographed by Hayley Goodwin, @brutalist_citizen

1. Barbican, City of London; designed by Chamberlin Powell and Bon, built 1962-82, photographed by Simon Phipps, simonphipps.co.uk 2. Christ Church, Lambeth, John Peter Darvall, built 1960, photographed by Jo Underhill, structuraleye.co.uk 3. Wellbeck Street Car Park, Michael Blampied and Partners, built 1970, photographed by Jo Underhill, structuraleye.co.uk 4. Institute of Education, Bloomsbury; designed by Denys Lasdun and Partners, built 1970-76, photographed by Simon Phipps, simonphipps.co.uk 5. Keeling House, Bethnal Green;

FRONT — fold

Stylish yet practical, FOLD use highly durable tombac metal surfaces that are temperature resistant, easy to clean, hygienic and odourless

All the draws are hidden through smooth technical refinements that allow the shapes to maintain their visual impact

Steininger FOLD INSPIRED BY ORIGAMI, FOLD KITCHENS HAVE THE BOLD VISUAL IMPACT YOU’D EXPECT FROM THE JAPANESE ART FORM

OVER THE PAST YEAR, kitchens have become more important spaces in our homes than ever before. They are social spaces where we can interact with our families and work together towards the perfection of lovely, lovely cakes, bakes and meals. This is even more so the case in modern homes where the kitchen is often part of a larger living space, combined with a dining or sitting room. So, as we slowly tiptoe towards a more open world, why not give your kitchen as much care and attention as an origami master? Steininger is an Austrian kitchens and interiors designer whose designs add a minimalist, pure aesthetic to any room. Their latest model, FOLD, is an awardwinning example of modern design and

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functionality. Inspired by the art of folding paper, the shapes are bold and geometric, presented in a cool brass-like alloy called tombac. All Steininger kitchens are made to measure, meaning they can be made to fit even the quirkiest of spaces, which is a necessity given that FOLD is as much a work of art as a functional piece of equipment. All the draws and compartments are hidden through smooth technical refinements that allow the shapes to maintain their visual impact. And it’s a lot of impact. It’s not all about design though, as the tombac metal surface is highly durable and temperature resistant too – it’s easy to clean, hygienic and odourless making it ideal for use in the kitchen. So, whether you keep your kitchen spotless to begin with or if the kids manage to make an almighty mess, it’s simple to return your Steininger kitchen back to its showroom shine. FOLD has been nominated for and won several design awards, including at the German Design Awards 2020, Iconic Awards 2020 and Red Dot Award 2019. Considering the excellent utility and service provided and the subtle yet impactful design, it’s small wonder that it’s critically acclaimed. Within the FOLD collection is also the M-Pod Table, a table that integrates a 32-inch touchpad with specially hardened safety glass that can operate as a smart home control panel, cookbook or turntable, among other functions. Who wouldn’t want to spin some fat tunes while you trim the fat on your signature steak dish? As all their kitchens are created bespoke and to measure, price is upon request and you can inquire at steiningerdesigners.com/en/

the

c u r v a c e o u s

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FRONT — jaguar c-type

t y p e Words:

Basem Wasef

THE HERITAGE BEHIND THE COMPETITION CAR THAT PUT THE ARCHETYPAL BRITISH MARQUE ON THE MAP

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FRONT — jaguar c-type

Sixty years ago, the Jaguar E-Type set the world ablaze with its gobsmacking styling and sensual sportiness. Its complex curves and teardrop silhouette was the stuff of dreams, famously inspiring Enzo Ferrari to christen it the most beautiful car in the world. The E-Type is currently enjoying adoration on its 60th anniversary, but we’d argue the icon could not have existed without one crucial forbearer: The C-Type. The unassuming predecessor may not claim the notoriety of the beloved E-Type, which inspired ownership from the likes of Steve McQueen and Brigitte Bardot. But it played an indispensable role in establishing the credibility of the carmaker that would later strike a chord with everyone from Frank Sinatra to Austin Powers, thrusting it onto the mass culture scene as an aspirational luxury car with a particularly British sense of style.

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Slight, seemingly simple, and oftoverlooked, the C-Type never did earn the E-Type levels of fame, perhaps because it was conceived out of necessity, not glamour. By the late 1940s, Jaguar was eager for success on the racetrack. The ‘Race on Sunday, sell on Monday’ mantra rang true for carmakers, especially challenger brands like Jag who were competing against giants like Mercedes-Benz. The XK120 dropped in 1948 with curvaceous good looks and a boastful moniker that tipped a hat to its 120 mph top speed, making it the fastest production car of its day. The pretty

FRONT — jaguar c-type

styling set it apart at road races, but Jaguar knew it needed a dedicated competition model in order to truly make waves, which led to a spinoff focused on the highest levels of motorsport: The XK120C. The new variant earned bodywork from designer and aerodynamicist Malcolm Sayer, becoming known as the C-Type, short for ‘Competition’. The more focused take on the sexy roadster featured flush, aerodynamically slippery bodywork and a number of innovations intended to make it formidable at the track: While the XK120 produced between 160 and 180 horsepower, early C-Types churned out 205 bhp. Constructed with a wispy aluminum body and a tubular frame, the racer was stripped of amenities in the interest of optimizing its power-to-weight ratio. Reflecting its thoroughbred

Rare is the race car that wins the world’s most notorious endurance competition, and even rarer is the one that does so on its debut

Developed as an XK120 spinoff, the CompetitionType was designed to be a formidable presence on the track thanks to its aerodynamically slippery bodywork, a racy power-to-weight ratio and meaty 205 bhp

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underpinnings was a shocking starting price of $6,000, or in more relative terms, twice that of the XK120. Confident of its new creation, in 1951 Jaguar entered three C-Types in what was widely regarded to be the most grueling motorsport event of its day: the 24 Hours of Le Mans race. Rare is the race car that wins the world’s most notorious endurance competition, and even rarer is the one that does so on its debut. But the C-Type achieved exactly that in its first year, taking the checkered flag at the Circuit de la Sarthe and putting the British manufacturer on the proverbial map. Seeing a threat from ever-escalating competitors, Jaguar worked with Dunlop to develop a disc brake system that could better handle the demands on round-the-clock racing. Though mechanical problems knocked them out of the race in 1952, C-Types went on to win Le Mans again in 1953, also placing second and fouth— a rare double victory that proved the mettle of the racer. The C-Type eventually gave way to the sinuous D-Type, with which it inherited numerous components from the C,

FRONT — jaguar c-type

The C-Type proved to be a significant technological and aerodynamic influence on the iconic E-Type, which Enzo Ferrari famously described as the most beautiful car in the world

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FRONT — jaguar c-type

Not just a pretty face, the racing pedigree of the C-Type was confirmed when it won the Le Mans 24 hour race at the first attempt in 1951 and repeated the feat again two years later

The C-Type that finished fourth at Le Mans in 1953 sold at a 2015 RM Sotheby’s auction in Monterey, California for $13.2 million

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including its inline-6 XK engine. Further optimized for the track, the D-Type claimed victory for Jaguar at Le Mans again in 1955, 1956, and 1957, where it took a staggering five out of the six top spots. As with any generational dynasty, some children go on to more notoriety than others. The Jaguar E-Type celebrates its 60th anniversary this year, and as such the carmaker has announced a commemorative recreation of the boom-nosed coupe and convertible. This also being the 70th anniversary of the C-Type, Jaguar is of course celebrating in its own way— in this case, by producing a limited series of continuation cars based on the disc brake-equipped, 220 horsepower spec that won Le Mans in 1953. All going well, those continuation cars will be making their way to the track in 2022, likely with a proud new owner behind the wheel of every single one. Despite a hefty price tag of $1.3 million, if previous continuation series are anything to go by they won’t hang around long. There’s no telling what Jaguar’s factory authorised C-Type builds will be worth in a few years. But the model’s pioneering race victories and extreme rarity— only 53 were built in total between 1951 and 1953— make this seemingly humble roadster become a coveted collector car. Still doubt the importance of the Jaguar C-Type? Consider what the market says on the rare occasion one comes up for sale. The C-Type that finished fourth at Le Mans in 1953 sold at a 2015 RM Sotheby’s auction in Monterey, California for $13.2 million.

FRONT — digital art

A RT, AU T HE N T ICIT Y and

WORDS:

SAM KESSLER

N F Ts

TECHNOLOGY AND THE ART WORLD HAVE COLLIDED WITH GREAT FORCE IN RECENT YEARS AS DIGITAL ARTWORKS IN THE FORM OF NFTS SELL FOR INCREASING MILLIONS, BUT WHY ARE THESE CLINICAL AND CREATIVE INDUSTRIES SUCH HAPPY BEDFELLOWS? AND, WHAT ON EARTH’S AN NFT? 130

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Clockwise: A Bigger Bang All Black, which Jean-Claude Biver unsuccessfully tried to sell with an NFT; Jacob & Co’s unique 3D render of Astronomia Sky; artwork by Beeple and the man himself, whose artwork on the previous page EVERYDAYS: THE FIRST 5000 DAYS sold for $69 million at Christie’s

LAST MONTH, Jean-Claude Biver decided to sell a digital version of his piece unique Bigger Bang All Black, a watch that’s arguably the genesis of modern Hublot, complete with an NFT. The actual watch wasn’t up for sale and it didn’t meet the reserve, but it made a splash, for sure. Then a little later, Jacob & Co got in on the act, offering a full, 3D render of a unique version of the Astronomia Sky backed by an NFT, one that actually did sell – and for $100,000 at that.

NFTs are pretty straightforward. They are simply unique digital identities that cannot be faked, copied or otherwise undermined 132

The questions you might therefore be asking is a simple one: what is an NFT? Despite all the tech jargon floating around, NFTs – Nonfungible Tokens – are pretty straightforward. They are simply unique digital identities that cannot be faked, copied or otherwise undermined. They’re created using the same blockchain technology behind cryptocurrencies and with much the same idea, albeit with a laser focus on ownership. They’re minted on a digital ledger that’s completely unalterable. That said, when Jack Dorsey of Twitter fame starts selling his first tweet or YouTubers are auctioning off video clips, it all gets a big disjointed. So, it’s worth looking a little more closely at what first thrust NFTs into the luxury limelight and, arguably, where they’re most at home: Art. Back on 11th March, an artist named Beeple (real name Mike Winkelmann) made history by selling a digital artwork via esteemed auctioneer Christie’s for just over $69 million. The piece, titled EVERYDAYS: THE FIRST 5000 DAYS, was created over the course of years as the artist, starting 1st May 2007, created a single image every single day. The images range from random sketches of Beeple’s Uncle Jay – Uber Jay – in biro to the final image, a nightmarish hellscape of Disney characters and pop culture icons as satanic muses. Kim Jong Un as a breasted Buzz Lightyear? Sure thing. It’s a monumental artwork, showcasing the evolution of an artist on his rise to prominence, and one that could only feasibly be sold as a digital piece. To certify it’s authenticity, it was sold with an

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Mad Dog Jones’s artwork, REPLICATOR (below) is an image of a printer that will actually print other NFTs over the course of a year. Over page; a portrait of Jones alongside two of the images that form part of Beeple’s EVERYDAYS: THE FIRST 5000 DAYS

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FRONT — digital art

What this did do is legitimise digital art in a way that we saw with Street Art, making it a mainstream artistic medium

NFT so that, digital though it may be, any fakes would be incredibly easy to figure out. The hammer price was paid using Ether, but to be honest cryptocurrency is beside the point here. Beeple himself didn’t exactly come from nowhere. The digital artist has an Instagram following of 1.8 million. But what this did do is legitimise digital art in a way that, a few years back, we saw with Street Art, making it a serious, mainstream artistic medium. This embracing of digital mediums has led to some serious experimentation in the field, too, far beyond simply using NFTs as, effectively, a certificate of authenticity. The next big auction in the field is set for later this month courtesy of

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Phillips. Created by Mad Dog Jones (Michah Dowbak), REPLICATOR is a work that does something amazing. The image of a printer will actually print other NFTs over the course of a year, essentially taking up the Warholian mantle of mass-produced art in a digital format. Occasionally, this being a printer, it will also jam, creating a distinctly unique work in the process and stopping that current crop of copies from continuing. The entire thing is built on an NFT framework that will ultimately give rise to seven generations of artwork, each slightly different from the last. At the time of writing, REPLICATOR has a winning bid of $2,400,000 with just over four days to go and I’d expect it to get considerably higher in the final rush. As an NFT artwork that produces more NFT artworks, this could be a serious investment piece once its production year is up. Which brings us back to our opening NFTs, a static watch image and a 3D render of a unique piece. The former didn’t sell and for what I consider good reason. A static image of a watch, one that could be retaken at any point, doesn’t have quite the same inherent value as an artwork, no matter how influential a watchmaking wizard is behind it. The Jacob & Co attempt on the other hand does have some merits, though it might actually be a little ahead of its time. The idea is that once (and if) augmented reality or VR take off, the owner of this digital watch can wear it in the virtual world. Sure, it’s pretty much a haute horology Fortnite skin, but given the amount of money that’s been raking in over the years, it could prove to be a bit of a money spinner, eventually. For now though, NFTs and art are a more perfect pair than you could hope for, and one that may well be expanded beyond digital works. How better to guarantee the authenticity of a Van Gough than to have an expert inspect it and sign it off with an NFT? It could cut down fraud and theft both (there’s no point stealing what you can’t prove is real) and will last longer than any piece of easilydamaged paper. For all the furore surrounding them, that’s all an NFT really is. It proves a work is unique. You just need to make sure it’s attached to something that is worth being unique. An old tweet or two just isn’t going to hack it. Even if it does go for $2.9 million. Yikes.

FRONT — hidden gallery

Hidden Gallery has sold eye-catching pieces by Banksy (above) Tracey Emin (left) Marc Chagall (below) and Henri Matisse (bottom)

Words:

Sam Kessler

Hidden Talents NEWLY-ARRIVING TO LONDON, HIDDEN GALLERY PROMISES REMARKABLE OPPORTUNITIES TO OWN INCREDIBLE ART

ART IS, ABOVE ALL ELSE, emotional. Whether it’s an impressionist masterpiece, a slice of surreality courtesy of Dali or a contemporary work by an up-and-coming artist, it’s the emotions behind them that give them meaning. They’re the same feelings that led, in 2015, to Chris Kendall setting up Bristol-based Hidden Gallery. Chris didn’t select his initial sale of works because they were ripe investments or even because they matched a particular taste; he

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bought them originally because of the stories behind them. He sought out works through which he felt a direct connection to the artists that were revolutionary in their field. Evidently it was a sentiment that resonated as half the works sold before the gallery in Bristol’s Clifton Arcade even opened. The rest were gone within a few days. Within a year Hidden had three spaces in Bristol; in 2019 they opened in Brighton and this year they’re heading to Camden Town, a world away from the usual, upscale haunts of Bond Street and Mayfair. While the gallery may be called Hidden, you certainly don’t need to worry about missing it. As Chris succinctly puts it: “I’ve become focused on work with strong imagery and a graphic use of colour and line. There is an element of showmanship to the work that we stock – we’re always looking for pieces that make a statement and catch the eye.” Those pieces include the likes of Henri Matisse, Tracey Emin, Joan Miro and Marc Chagall. From Picasso to Banksy, as long as it’s colourful and eye-catching, then you can likely find it at Hidden. Of course, while Chris may pick the pieces from an emotional standpoint and love of striking art, that’s not why everyone buys art. Which is why it’s worth pointing out that a good amount of Hidden’s offerings are serious investment opportunities, especially as, in the Covid era, demand for works on paper has skyrocketed by upwards of 390%. It’s worth getting in on. The gallery offers over 1,500 pieces online, which makes buying investment art easier than ever before – time is money, after all – and interest-free payments make it surprisingly affordable to own a signed, quality print and start building a serious collection. If that all sounds a bit clinical though, feel free to stick to the golden rule: buy what you love. At Hidden Gallery, be it online or in one of their galleries, there’s a lot to love. Find out more and browse the full collection at hiddengallery.co.uk

CULTURE — wonderous whisky

MICHTER’S LIMITED EDITION TOASTED BARREL FINISH RYE (USA)

WHISTLEPIG 15 YEAR OLD (USA)

With only a few bottles left on the market, this limited edition Michter’s release is one for the collection. Their emblem Michter’s US*1 Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Rye was fully matured at barrel strength before being placed in a second uniquely toasted barrel for a further 24 months of ageing. These releases don’t happen too often, so when they do, you nab em! The result is a warm yet energetic whisky with dark chocolate, vanilla, honey, dates and burnt brown sugar. Sip’ away. 54.4% ABV £200 from thewhiskyworld.com

One of America’s most exciting creations in my opinion. Taken from some of their oldest stocks, this stunner is finished in Vermont Estate Oak, harvested right there on WhistlePig’s farm. Given the quality of the oak, a hell of a lot more flavour is imparted within the liquid, making it one of the tastiest ryes you’ll get your lips on. The palate is incredibly rich and succulent with allspice, butterscotch, burnt caramel and caramelised oranges. Warm, sticky, and rich with a kick of tobacco and leather on the finish. ABV 46% £244 from Master of Malt

AMRUT FUSION (INDIA) When it comes to Indian whisky, many may turn their noses up, but be under no illusion that there is some fantastic stuff available. Fusion is a distinct blend of Indian barley from right by the Amrut distillery in India and peated Scottish barley, both matured and distilled separately in American oak for over four years. Non chillfiltered for that final touch, you get nuances of the peat with a complexity that makes it even more exciting. Dollops of fresh stone fruits like apricot and peach with honey, chinese spices and a tickle of smoke to round things out. Jai Ho! ABV 50% £49 from Master of Malt

YAMAZAKI 12 YEAR (JAPAN) Yamazaki is a true pioneer of whisky, being the oldest company to begin making the stuff in Japan. Introduced to the market in 1984, Yamazaki 12 is no stranger to our glasses. Yet despite having been around for decades it still frequently sells out. Every year it racks up a plethora of new awards to the point the trophy cabinet will likely collapse from the weight. Pure gold in colour, the nose offers peaches, grapefruits, vanilla and Japanese mizunara oak. The palate combines a creamy butter with coconut and redcurrants before entering a long, luscious finish of sweet ginger and cinnamon. ABV 43% £288 from Dekanta

Wonderful World of Whisky The

Words: Aidy Smith

This issue is all about whisk(e)y discovery. It’s no secret that the golden spirit has found worldwide fame, not just because of its taste and ability to age over time but equally as much from an investment standpoint. For that reason, in this issue, we delve into some of the best bottles from around the world. From the shores of India to the rye fields of Vermont and even an English whisky making its claim to fame. Let’s get stuck in.

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CULTURE — wonderous whisky

WATERFORD GRATTANSBROOOK 1.1 (IRELAND) Since Waterford launched their first dram in 2015 they have shaped a new evolution of thinking when it comes to Irish whiskey. Delving into the world of terroir they have proven that whiskies, much like wine, are a result of so many factors; the location, climate, crops, weather and so on all having a dramatic impact on the flavour inside the bottle. Grattansbrook 1.1 is an exclusive UK release, produced from the 2015 harvest of Taberna barley. These single farm origin crops are grown upon the floodplain of the River Barrow on Grattansbrook farm in Co. Kildare. Non-chill filtered and aged for three years and 10 months in a multitude of casks including first-fill virgin US & French oak there’s a great depth and ever-evolving complexity. A rich texture gives way to both a dry and oily finish. Notes of fresh chocolate, green tea, brown sugar and jasmine jump out of the glass with stewed banana, caramel fudge, toffee apples and a lemon zest on the palate. The story is great and it tastes bloody good too. ABV 50% £70 from The Whisky Exchange

NIKKA SESSIONS 2020 & THE NIKKA TAILORED (JAPAN) A brand new addition to the Nikka portfolio, Nikka Sessions. A ridiculously exciting blend of whisky from not only the Yoichi and Miyagikyo distilleries in Japan but also Scotland’s Ben Nevis distillery. Three world class spirit purveyors intertwine to create an evolutionary expression, carefully crafted by experts who have been creating world-class blends for decades. Aromas of fresh apples and oranges jump from the glass as a smooth and velvety palate offers stewed orchard fruits, light toffee and a wave of freshly peated smoke. If you can’t decide between Scotch or Japanese whisky, your question was just answered. This was so hard I had to choose two, so Nikka Tailored, another beauty from the ‘Father of Japanese Whisky’ simply has to be highlighted. Essentially replacing the Nikka 12 Year Old, this scrumptious blend derives from my two favourite Japanese distilleries, Miyagiko and Yoichi. A quick sip evokes comforting notes of caramel, cocoa, vanilla and chocolate chip cookies with dried dates and espresso. ABV 43% Nikka Sessions 2020 (42% ABV) £187 from Dekanta The Nikka Tailored - (£43% ABV) - £195 from Dekanta

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Three world class spirit purveyors intertwine to create an evolutionary expression, carefully crafted by experts

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CULTURE — wonderous whisky

KAVALAN PODIUM (TAIWAN) From the throne of Taiwanese whisky, comes Kavalan’s Podium Single Malt. This expressive dram focuses on the unique nuances brought to whisky through the use of casks, using a variety of new-fill and refill American oak casks across ex-bourbon, sherry and wine. Elegant and smooth with so much going on, this is the type of whisky you instantly fall in love with. A mixture of floral notes, coconut, vanilla and light baking spices waft out of the glass with a burst of stewed and fresh tropical fruits erupting on taste buds, Apple, honey, cherry and white pepper all having their moment. Another example of the pure magic that Kavalan is creating each year. 46% ABV £77 from The Whisky Exchange

IN THE WELSH WIND WELSH ORIGIN WHISKY (WALES) In case the name didn’t tip you off, this patriotic whisky is very much Welsh, from grain to glass. The distillery – previously having produced some truly excellent gin – uses barley grown locally and has gone so far as to establish the first Welsh malting house in a century. If there’s a case for independence, it’s this liquid. Unfortunately, you’ll need to wait for a while to get a bottle in your collection; the Welsh Origin Whisky is currently aging and will be ready Spring 2024. If that’s too long to wait – or you’d like to join the distillery on their journey to bottling – you can instead opt for a 30-litre cask, which can be paid for in monthly instalments, making it a seriously accessible investment in what promises to be a fantastic new whisky. £1,500 per 30-litre cask, inthewelshwind.co.uk

JJ CORRY THE FLINTLOCK BATCH 2 (IRELAND) JJ Cory is no stranger to exploration and has been sourcing some of the best Irish whiskey from across the heart of the country for decades. Led by Louise McGuane, JJ Corry’s award-winning small batch whiskies are the result of decades of whisky know-how. The Flintlock Batch No. 2 is no exception to that way of thinking. The liquid was crafted from three single malt ex-bourbon casks, each from the same distillery from JJ Corry’s library. Aged 14 and 18 years, each single malt was chosen based on its unique flavour profile. Then the magic happened - married together to produce a 46% ABC dream of sticky baked apricots, rich, toasted vanilla and warm almonds atop a fresh apple tart. I’ll skip dessert and go straight to the good stuff. ABV 46% £145 from Master of Malt

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CULTURE — wonderous whisky

ENGLISH WHISKY (ENGLAND) COTSWOLDS DISTILLERY SAUTERNES CASK (LIMITED EDITION) 55.2% ABV If you’ve got a bit of a sweet tooth (I have a very sweet tooth), then whisky aged in Sauternes casks are something you should be spending time hunting for. I always find them offering a beautifully balanced assortment of candied apricot and juicy peach, making for an exceptionally smooth and soothing dram. England’s most notable whisky distillery launched the first of their Hearts & Crafts series which has set a whole new benchmark of what can be produced in this country. Small parcel French oak casks that previously held the world famous Sauternes dessert wine from Bordeaux intertwine in the barrel, creating a complex and delicious peach and honey driven whisky. Sweet raisin, fig and almond are met with juicy white stone fruits. Only 1,680 exist with not many left. I’m also told the distillery will shortly be releasing it’s second Hearts & Crafts release with whisky aged in Pineau de Charentes casks - keep an eye out! 55.2% ABV £75 from Cotswolds Distillery

WESTLAND AMERICAN OAK SINGLE MALT WHISKEY While our stateside cousins may have their reputation to uphold in the rarefied realm of bourbon, there are nonetheless some killer liquids coming out of the USA, including this, the simply named American Oak Single Malt Whiskey, courtesy of Seattle-based Westland distillery. It combines, as the name suggests, new American Oak casks with ex-Bourbon wood, matured in relatively cool climes, for flavours of cherries, chocolate and coffee. Despite being at an approachable price point, this is nonetheless a seriously good, unquestioningly American whiskey. £70, available at Waitrose

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CULTURE — unsung heroes

Words:

Ken Kessler

UNSUNG VINTAGE HEROES:

F.P. JOURNE ÉLÉGANTE Sports watches are aesthetically typecast as oversized with chunky crowns, rotating bezels and chronographs, but there’s always an exception to the rule

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The watch industry has spent the past 70 odd years trying to convince us what a sports watch is. We often picture a sports watch as typically oversized with chunky crowns, rotating bezels and chronographs. Obviously, for a sports issue, it is no surprise that my first thought was to pick some old Minerva pilots watch or snazzy 70s dive instrument with a beautiful manual wind chronograph calibre. Surely nothing from a brand known for crafting exquisite haute horology dress watches? Certainly nothing in quartz? The human brain is excellent at dealing with cognitive dissonance, feeding ducks with the kids in the morning and roasting a chicken for lunch a few hours later. In the same way, Instagram and forum posts will rave about the chronometric benefits of remontoirs, hand polished vertical clutches and silicon escapements, but yes, we all know that a silicon circuit will count those precious seconds better… Francois Paul Journe’s approach to quartz however has to assuage some of the doubts about batteries in ‘real’ watchmaking. The calibre 1210 electromechanical movement was in development for the best part of a decade and marries FP Journe’s mechanical expertise and high level finishing, to a Swiss microprocessor with an ingenious energy saving mechanism. The result is one of the most beautiful quartz calibres ever produced, finished in the brands signature rose gold, and proudly visible through the sapphire crystal case back. Still battling some of our innate mechanical snobbery, the Élégante’s clever movement design incorporates a micro-rotor at 4:30, visible through the dial that tracks the wearers motion. By pausing the hands after 35 minutes of inactivity and switching the timekeeping to its internal micro-processor, Journe has not only managed to eke out the power reserve to an impressive eight to 10 years but also provides us with an amazing dance of the hands every time it ‘wakes up’. While another tonneau shaped brand has opted for intricately suspended tourbillons to achieve incredible shock-resistance in their calibres, the near solid-state approach taken by the Élégante is simpler to achieve, easier to maintain and arguably more suited to purpose? Despite the name, I absolutely maintain this is a sports watch, with its Titanium case fitted to a super supple, water-proof rubber strap, the Élégante is rugged, comfortable, and light enough that it won’t slow your tennis serve. The last piece of the puzzle for a sports watch is typically a high visibility dial, normally in black, with chunky luminous hands and bold hour markers.

Interestingly, Journe has achieved maximum legibility while managing to keep his razor thin hands by presenting an entirely Super-Luminova covered dial for supreme contrast. To around half of Journe collectors, the Élégante was a smash hit, to the wider market, it is still massively underrated, unlike the Résonance or Chronomètre Bleu, it is almost never written about and rarely splashed across social media. There’s a little Luddite in all of us, thanks to the ‘real watch-making’ marketing of the post quartzcrisis Swiss brands, but if there’s ever an argument for electronic time-keeping having a ‘soul’ surely it’s this? In spite of the name, the Élégante is flush with sports watch credentials thanks to its Titanium case that’s fitted to a super supple, water-proof rubber strap, as well as its high visibility dial, chunky hands and bold hour markers

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BACK — in focus

IN FOCUS AN INSIGHT INTO TWO FASCINATING BRANDS Edited By

SAM KESSLER

Lundis Bleus and Raymond Weil

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LUNDIS BLEUS Watchmaking is a serious business, it’s a precision industry that requires engineering on a miniscule scale and involves the use of rare and exotic materials. It’s a world of tradition and heritage. However, there is one tradition that has mostly been forgotten about that the founders of microbrand Lundis Bleus, Johan and Bastien, are trying to revive. Best of all, it’s a tradition that involves alcohol. Before the Industrial Revolution and the standardisation of working hours and factory conditions, many watchmakers were in control of their own time. And just like any of us, they hated Mondays so would often choose not to go into work and instead spend the day drinking and embracing their artistic freedom. A habit that came to be known as ‘Blue Mondays’ or in French, ‘Lundis Bleus’ – hence the name of the modern brand. While it might be fun to imagine a group of drunk artisans discussing the latest complications, that isn’t the case at Lundis Bleus, who are more interested in the creative freedom and expression that went hand in hand with the shorter working week. The only place for alcohol within their watchmaking is their logo, which is a stylised alcohol molecule. That freedom is expressed by the brand in the huge character and variety of dials that are available on their timepieces. They use semi-precious stones, mother-of-pearl and all sorts of exotic materials, but lording above them all has to be their signature Grand Feu enamel dials, one of the trickiest dials to make, which they remarkably produced in-house. So much of the brand’s time goes into creating each dial that they have a production limitation of 150 timepieces every year, making even their simplest watches in the Essentielles collection extremely exclusive and rare. The Essentielles range consists of fairly traditional silver, rose gold and black dialled watches that are nice but don’t really capture the essence of what Lundis Bleus is about. Their more exciting collections are the Contemporaines, Métiers d’Art and at the very top end, the Unique Pieces. Contemporaines is where you’ll find the majority of the semi-precious and exotic materials such as mother-of-pearl, meteorite and polished stone like Nephrite Jade, as well as some simple Grand Feu dials in bold, block colours. Where there’s a real step up is when you progress to the Métiers d’Art collection that introduces intricate patterns to the Grand Feu enamel and more defined hour markers and minute tracks that give a sense of a more holistic timepiece. As part of their ‘map’ series, for want of a better term, they will render any map of the world you request in cloisonné Grand Feu enamel, a special technique

The name Lundis Bleus (or Blue Monday) was coined when watchmakers would avoid work on Monday in favour of drinking and embracing their artistic freedom

That freedom is expressed by the brand in the huge character and variety of dials available that uses pure gold wire to shape individual portions of enamel - their examples are a map of the Mediterranean Sea or the Sea of Japan. Then there are the Unique Pieces that are quite literally one of a kind. These timepieces, such as last year’s Ref.1120-UP Vipera Aspis Blue Green can take up to an entire month to produce due to the difficulty of producing them and the delicacy required. As custom pieces, their price tags are understandably higher, the Ref.1120-UP Fushimi Inari Taisha is currently on their online store for CHF 12,924.00 (approx £10,175). Find out more at lundis-bleus.com

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RAYMOND WEIL Raymond Weil has a habit of being in the right place at the right time. When they burst onto the horology scene in 1976, they found an industry in the throes of crisis, the boom in quartz movements bringing about the supposed death of fine watchmaking. However, led by Mr. Raymond Weil, they created mechanical timepieces that were quickly lauded by critics and collectors alike. Jumping forward 45 years and the industry in crisis now is music, one of the areas that has been hit hardest by the closure of live venues during the pandemic. Raymond Weil has always been an ally to music venues and musicians the world over, with dozens of musically inspired watches throughout their back catalogue. Most notable has to be the Amadeus Collection from 1983 when the brand was still young. The collection was released alongside Milos Forman’s critically acclaimed film of the same name, capturing the essence of Mozart and bringing the Austrian legend to life. Sure, the composer himself wouldn’t have worn a watch but the film wasn’t loved for its accuracy either. Similar projects have been a staple of the brand ever since with models like the Fidelio, Toccata and Fantasia following in subsequent years. More recently Raymond Weil has been working alongside the legendary Gibson guitars and Sennheiser headphones, as well as venues such as Victoria Concert Hall in Geneva and the Royal Albert Hall – both of which have been hit pretty hard by the current crisis. Still, the brand’s drive to support creators and artists is perhaps best epitomised by their partnership with the BRIT Awards. Since 2008, Raymond Weil has been a supporter of the famous UK music awards, which is without a doubt one of the most influential celebrations of mainstream music in the world. Horologically, the musical core of their timepieces is as strong as ever with the launch of a new Maestro collection this year – a maestro of course being a particularly distinguished conductor. The original Maestro range appeared in 2007 and stood out for its classy dress watch aesthetics and refined complications, being the first watches from the brand to bear moonphases. The same is true of the new line-up that is being added. There are 12 models being released with a large mix of moonphases, open balance wheels and simple date functions. A standout is the 40mm stainless steel and rose gold PVD model with grey Arabic dial and automatic calibre with 38-hour power reserve. It’s one of the less flashy pieces from a technical perspective but the classy colours are the

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Horologically, the musical core of their timepieces is as strong as ever with the launch of a new Maestro collection this year most evocative of an actual maestro, whose purpose is to control the tempo of the music and shape the sound – the ultimate human timekeeper. We can’t wait to get back into the concert halls and venues that are the lifeblood of live music and given the tentatively improving circumstances, perhaps we won’t have too long to wait. And with brands like Raymond Weil supporting key institutions, it’s a return that’s sure to impress. Not to mention that with everyone dusting off their dress outfits, there’s never been a better time to update your dress watch game as well. Find out more at raymond-weil.co.uk

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oracle insights

Duke + Dexter – Driving Shoes O r a c le

INSIGHTS THE THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT AND WHY YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT THEM.

BILLY TANNERY One of the biggest issues the leather industry faces is sustainability, caused by the waste of valuable animal products – it’s a problem that the founders of Billy Tannery wanted to tackle head on. They discovered that there were lots of goat hides being wasted from the UK goat meat trade and so they decided to take those hides and turn them into useful and beautiful products. The ‘Gote’ bag is made from this sustainably sourced leather and is offered in a variety of colours. £395 from billytannery.co.uk

Summer is on its way and with it the ability to finally lower the top on your convertible and feels the rush of the wind as you head out for a drive under blue skies. Duke + Dexter are on hand to make the experience even more enjoyable with their dedicated driving loafers. They’re lightweight with plenty of grip on their custom soles to give you the most ergonomic and satisfying driving experience. You have several designs to choose from, from traditional block colours to quirky pastels and Duke + Dexter’s signature in-house camo pattern. £140 from dukeanddexter.com

VALIMOR – CALIBURNUS II Valimor is young watchmaking brand with a big vision. They take inspiration for their timepieces from the stories and artworks of the medieval period, making for unique and dramatic designs that are immensely characterful. Their latest watch, the Caliburnus II, is inspired by the tales of King Arthur, with five versions representing key moments like The Sword in The Stone and the lake where Arthur retrieves Excalibur. All five options have 42mm stainless steel cases engraved with Valimor’s signature dragon scale pattern. valimor.com

NICCOLÒ P. – DARK SAPPHIRE COTTON POLO Polo shirts are a staple of every wardrobe – they are one of, if not the most versatile apparel a man can own – perfectly suited to the beach, the tennis court or even tucked under a smart jacket. Here to cater for our needs is the polo specialist Niccolò P. who have a diverse range of fabrics, colours and styles available. A particular favourite has to be the Dark Sapphire Sea Island Cotton Polo Shirt. niccolo-p.com

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oracle insights

RED PADDLE CO. – 10’6” RIDE PADDLE BOARD PACKAGE For the past year finding any method to get out of the house and exercise has been at the top of many people’s lists. The result is that lots of outdoor goods found themselves in short supply, but one company that stood up to the pressure is Red Paddle Co. who create durable and easy to use paddle boards – the fastest growing water sport in the world. The 10’6” Ride MSL SUP Inflatable Paddle Board Package includes everything you need to get out on the water, including an all-terrain backpack. Paddle Board Package, £899 redpaddleco.com

BILLY RUFFIAN – SUEDE CHUKKA BOOTS It wouldn’t be incorrect to say that footwear is the most important part of an outfit, providing both protection and style. You want a pair of shoes that enable you to walk well and that’s exactly what Billy Ruffian produce, versatile shoes suitable for everyone and anyone. Take their Chukka Boots for example, available in suede or leather, they are perfect for casual looks with chinos and jeans as well as smart looks with a blazer or light suit. £165 from billyruffianshoes.co.uk

PANASONIC – JZ2000 TELEVISION

The Chimes Antique Clocks There’s so much to talk about with wristwatches that we often find ourselves neglecting other forms of timepieces. That kind of neglect would never be found at Antiqueclock.co.uk, who specialise in selling rare and collectable long case (grandfather) clocks, wall clocks and mantel clocks. They have a huge range of styles on offer from many different time periods, works of art crafted by the finest clockmakers. You can book an appointment to visit the store or check out the full list of timepieces on their website. Find out more at antique-clock.co.uk

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The new 2021 Flagship model from Panasonic features a 65 inch 4K OLED screen with HCX Pro AI Processor for more definition than you can shake a stick at. The television can store your preferences for sport, film, live music and more, automatically adjusting the sound and display based on the content you’re viewing. It’s also been optimised for gaming, halving the input lag from your gaming devices to allow for crisp controls. Needless to say TV technology has come a long way from the days when HD was the most cutting edge feature. Price to be announced soon. panasonic.com

BACK — microbrand corner

MICROBRAND

CORNER From Avant Garde design to accessible haute horology, this is the latest and greatest from the creative world of microbrand watchmaking

THE SPECS

• 41mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW510 automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve • £2,150, williamwoodwatches.com

William Wood Triumph

After making an impressive splash on the British watch scene with the superb Valiant, firefighter-inspired watch brand William Wood are turning the heat up with their latest release, the Triumph. Scattered with emergency service details – subdials taken from fire engine dashboards, pressure pump sub hands and a chronograph sections counterweight like an old fire bell chime – and a bright new look with a mix of steel and brass surfaces, it’s a stunner. Add in a Swiss movement and three striking colours and it looks like another winner for William Wood. williamwoodwatches.com

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THE SPECS

• 40.50mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW300-1 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • From $4,350 (approx. £3,160), snglrtywatch.com

SNGLRTY OH14

While most of us have long since accepted that there are certain ways of displaying the time, there’s a sub-section of watchmakers that dispute that opinion. One such brand is SNGLRTY. Their single-handed concept combines a classic hours indication with a minute disc that revolves counterclockwise, highlighting the minutes in a circle on the hour hand. It’s a novel idea and helped by the fact that the COSC-certified OH14 is also a seriously cool looking watch with its multi-layered, impeccably finished dial. snglrtywatch.com

Wilbur

Automatic Launch Edition What happens when a designer goes from futuristic automotive R&D to the world of watches? Wilbur. Created by award-winning designer Jason Wilbur, the eponymous brand’s debut timepiece is as much fuelled by petrol as watchmaking. With its unashamedly macho dimensions and a crown to put the Graham Chronofighter to shame, this combination of 3D space frame chassis and patent-pending suspended dial and movement is like nothing else out there. If Wilbur wanted to make a splash they’ve gone and done it – and in a big way. wilburco.com

THE SPECS • 44mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• Seiko automatic movement • $2,700 (Approx. £1,950), limited to 250 pieces, wilburco.com

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THE SPECS

• 40mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Ronda 3540 Meca-Quartz movement • £395, omologatowatches.com

Omologato

Panamericana Rojo de Carreras Inspired by the longest road in the world, stretching from Prudhoe Bay in the USA to Quellón, Chile, the Panamericana is the latest feather in the cap of automotive watch brand Omologato. It’s also their heaviesthitter to date, with an upgraded Meca-Quartz movement, riveted dial and painfully cool TV-shaped case. Throw in some bright colours like this eye-catching racing red and you have an accessible timepiece with some serious style credentials. Oh, and it’s also worth pointing out that yes, they do own the name Panamericana. Sorry, Porsche. omologatowatches.com

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Roue

TPS Chronograph Overlooking the more obvious 911 in favour of the Porsche 910, Roue’s retro chronograph is inspired by the instrument panel of the famous racer in a handsome tricompax layout, with a particularly prominent tachymeter on the dial. It’s available in five different colours, though for our money this reverse panda with yellow highlights – The Four – is the star of the show. Backed by a Meca-Quartz movement, it’s an accessible timepiece with solid style credentials, whether you find yourself trackside or not. rouewatch.com

THE SPECS

• 40mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Seiko calibre VK63 Meca-Quartz movement • $310 (approx. £225), limited to 1,000 pieces, rouewatch.com

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END — moviewatch

CITIZEN SOLDIERS

Superheroes need a case equal in strength to Captain America’s shield and a solar-powered movement, despite largely working under cover of darkness

M OVIE WATC H

The Falcon and the Winter Soldier Sure, it’s not a high-concept amalgamation of iconic US sitcoms, witchcraft and grief, nor does it include a time-hopping Tom Hiddleston, but the Falcon and the Winter Soldier is still a lot

of fun. A good part of that is watching the leads try to outstare each other at every opportunity, but some cool aerial dogfights and super soldier fisticuffs have their place too. With Audemars Piguet’s recent headlong jump down the Marvel rabbit hole however, you might be expecting the titular clandestine pairing to be sporting a Code 11.59 with their own action figure on the dial a la the new Black Panther watch. Whether it’s because the show was produced before the partnership announcement, AP considers these guys the B-team or just that the guy with the silver and gold mechanical arm has more taste than that, the prestige watchmaker has given this one a miss. Instead, Citizen has stepped in to create a sub-collection specifically for the show – and it’s one that really works. The name’s not subtle – the Super Titanium Armor – but it is straightforward about what makes the watches stand out. The big, chunky, integrated sports watch can be spotted throughout the series, partly for its 41mm

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yet proportionally muscular size, partly for its cool, streamlined look. All three variations use Citizen’s solar-powered Eco-Drive movement, which seems a little off for a pair of heroes that do a lot of their work at night. Still, the battery lasts long enough that it shouldn’t be a big deal, especially when protected by a case almost as indestructible as Captain America’s shield. This isn’t the first collab between the Japanese watch giant and Disney’s superhero production line, with… let’s say, less subtle pieces dedicated to Iron Man, Spiderman and even The Punisher. This is one of the only in-universe appearances though. It’s no Audemars Piguet, Urwerk or any of the countless other serious haute horologists that have made it into the marvel cinematic universe, but the Super Titanium Armour’s looks and functionality make it a solid fit. That said, we’re still intrigued by what kind of watch Daniel Brühl’s Baron Zemo would wear. Anyone that can pull off a fur-lined coat like that surely has one hell of a collection.