Oracle Time - Issue 80 - March 2022 (Taste) by Oracle Time Magazine

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .80

The New Face Of

PARMIGIANI The Taste Issue TRENDSETTERS | EPICUREANS | THE ROYAL OAK

ISSUE 80

8.95

ORACLE TIME #80

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Thomas Pettit Editor: Fraser Vincent Watch: Parmigiani Tonda PF

I’m proud to say that this issue marks our 80th edition. If you’re trying to work out how old that makes us (rude), it’s been eight years since Oracle Time was first printed and it’s been a rollercoaster. That’s especially true of the past few years for obvious reasons I’m not about to rehash on this bon anniversaire. Let’s just say that it’s a testament to our writers and guys working behind the scenes that we’ve made it this far. That all said, eight years is a pretty insubstantial anniversary when compared to a golden jubilee, particularly if it marks 50 years of one of the most disruptive timepieces ever built: The Royal Oak Jumbo. To celebrate, we delve into the history of the original Jumbo, get hands-on with its latest successor and reminisce about the 15202s that are heading into retirement. But for every sports elegance legend being relegated to the history books, there’s one just in its ascendency: in this case, the Tonda PF. The new face of Parmigiani isn’t just an overdue soft relaunch for the independent brand, it’s a fantastic watch in its own right. Aside from our cover, you can find it on page 45. It turns out Guido Terreni has exquisite taste. Taste, indeed, is the theme of this issue and it goes without saying that we’ve taken the opportunity for a more epicurean look at fine timepieces. Our shoot this issue, starting on page 92, combines the two things I, personally, enjoy most in the world: eating and talking about watches. It’s something I have in common with our interviewee this issue, Mr. Tom Kerridge. As our resident foodie, Nick Savage discovers that not only does the Michelin-star chef know his fine dining, but his timepieces too – particularly when it comes to what he can and can’t smash around a kitchen. Oh, and if you want a broader look at the latest epicurean openings in London, check out page 121 for the latest news from our capital’s ever expanding restaurant scene. If you ever need an excuse to get to Holy Bar, just let me know. Now, I’m not claiming to be a tastemaker (by any stretch of the imagination), but I know people who know people. Namely Charlie Thomas who, for our style section this issue, has chatted to some of the most influential sartorial trendsetters of the London fashion scene. Want to check out Richard Biedul’s favourite greasy spoon or museum tips from Aleks Cvetkovich? Look no further than page 78. If you’d rather work out good taste for yourself, Benedict Browne (who also makes an appearance among our style tastemakers), delves into how he defines good taste in clothing with this issue’s Style Manifesto on page 74. Looking at that combat coat, I can agree with his criteria. As for what’s coming up, well, it’s going to be a busy time over the next couple of months. Watches & Wonders, set to be the largest watch show in the world, is commencing in April and while we can’t say anything about it quite yet (we’ve signed far too many NDAs to risk a slip-up now), there’s going to be a lot to talk about. So, keep your eyes on this space. And hey, if you’re heading to W&W yourself, feel free to say hi! In the meantime, stay safe, stay sand and, as ever, enjoy this issue. Sam Kessler, Editor

KEEP IN TOUCH: @oracle_time | @oracle_time | facebook.com/oracleoftime | oracleoftime.com

ORACLE TIME #80

CONTRIBUTORS WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk SUB EDITOR

Dan Mobbs

Benedict Browne Benedict is a London-based journalist, stylist, and brand consultant who champions British brands and artisanal menswear. He splits his time between Head of Content at the menswear and lifestyle agency Studio Graft and lending his services to magazines, both in the UK and internationally. You can follow him on Instagram at @benedict_browne.

danmobbs@hotmail.com

Charlie Thomas

JUNIOR COPYWRITER

Michael Sonsino

Charlie Thomas is a UK-based writer and photographer. An eternal pessimist, he has an equal love of both fine food and KFC. His work has appeared in The Independent, The Times, NME, the London Evening Standard, Tatler and Esquire.

michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Kirsty Illingworth kirsty@opulentmedia.co.uk DIRECTOR

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk MANAGING EDITOR / CO-FOUNDER

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 8071 4615

George Parker

Aidy Smith

is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers. He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped.

george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 8071 4616

Nick Savage

Nick will try any dish once, whether it’s tarantula stew in Cambodia, muskox Thai green curry in Greenland or mopane worms in Zimbabwe. As a food and travel journalist, he has travelled the world, but his favourite place to eat will always be London.

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Phil Peachey Phil.peachey@opulentmedia.co.uk 0203 985 1414 OT MAGAZINE is published monthly by Opulent Media 020 8071 4615

Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

ORACLE TIME #80

CONTENTS

OT M AG A ZINE / ISSUE 80

18 — AFICIONADO

45 — A QUIET REVOLUTION

Discover all the latest on our radar and what should be in your basket this month

26 — NEWS

A round-up of what’s going on in the world of luxury and haute horology

38 — TIME STAMPING The ultimate form of timekeeping that makes global trade a possibility

41 — THE ORACLE SPEAKS We explore those arbiters of taste that have no time for nuance or polite discourse

Parmigiani’s Tonda PF marks a new chapter for the independent watchmaker that whispers rather than shouts

The time-anddate Micro-Rotor is an avatar for the new direction of Parmigiani, emphasising small details over complications A Quiet Revolution — p45

ORACLE TIME #80

CONTENTS

67 — BRINGING HOME THE BACON

The initiatives and ideas continue to tumble from the watch-loving Tom Kerridge

78 — MEET THE TASTEMAKERS

Dive into London’s style scene through the eyes of the men that are helping define it

92 — (WATCH)MAKING CONVERSATION Instigate sparkling dinner party chat with a flash of horological style

109 — WATCH REVIEWS

OT gets hands on with Zenith and Longines timepieces

121 — YOUR LONDON DINING INVITATION

Browse the menu of London restaurants making triumphant returns to the dining scene

125 — WINES TO IMPRESS FRIENDS

Bring a bottle or two of our conversation-worthy dinner party wines to your next soire 84

130 — WINE FRAUD

To this day, the Ref. 15202 is the spitting image of its 1972 ancestor, a practically untouched artefact 50 Years of the Ref. 15202 — p58

53 — MAN OF INFLUENCE

Five years ago Rikki Daman was a watch novice, now he’s a watch podcast powerhouse

58 — 50 YEARS OF THE REF. 15202

More than AP’s saviour, the 15202 grew beyond expectation

A beginner’s guide to spotting a vintage wine of… dubious authenticity

145 — AUCTION WATCH 2022

Make a date in your diary for upcoming auctions that you should know about

146 – IN FOCUS

A man on a mission, magic movements and alarming presidents are in the spotlight

153 – MICROBRAND CORNER

Introducing the latest and greatest watches from the best small scale independents

edited by: MICHAEL SONSINO

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

FRONT — aficionado

BORN IN THE 80S With its boxy, saloon frame, the Hyundai Grandeur is a retro icon that’s been given a decidedly un-retro overhaul. The Heritage Series Grandeur strips out the less-thaneco-friendly engine and electrifies it, along with new, luxurious (albeit still retro) interiors. Hyundai call the approach ‘Newtro’ which is painful to hear but, unfortunately, describes it pretty well. And we can’t help but love those pixel headlights. Find out more at hyundai.co.uk

FRONT — aficionado

THE SOUND OF ADVENTURE Hike to your own soundtrack with two new colourways for Bang & Olufsen’s ultratough Beosound portable speaker. The waterproof, wireless cylinder of hardwearing tech is designed to survive whatever you throw at it and sound no worse for wear. In blue or brown, it’s the ultimate travel speaker for your first big, post-lockdown adventure. £169, bang-olufsen.com

FRONT — aficionado

BRIGHT NEW HORIZON After dabbling in light-up connected devices before, Louis Vuitton has finally re-interpreted their signature Tambour watch into a piece of wearable tech – and it’s a lightshow. Along with the customisable dial and mix of touch screen and push buttons, the defining feature of the Tambour Horizon is its peripheral, light-up take on the maison’s iconic Monogram and Damier. It’s definitely sleek but subtle it is not. From £2,690, uk.louisvuitton.com

FRONT — aficionado

SEEING RED If the last collaboration between Adidas Originals and Beyonce’s Ivy Park label was anything to go by, every stitch in this body-positive capsule will likely be sold out by the time you read this. But if you can get your hands on a pair of the collection’s yellow-dipped Stan Smiths, you’ll be laughing. adidas.co.uk

FRONT — aficionado

ON YOUR (E)BIKE If there’s one person you want designing a top-end e-bike it’s Greg LeMond. The American legend has won the Tour de France too many times for any sane person and has channelled that experience into the superlative Prolog. Built almost entirely from carbon fibre, it has a top speed of 20mph and a host of potential upgrades to improve the ride experience. So, if you find yourself struggling on your twowheeled commute, look no further. From £4,350, lemond.com

FRONT — aficionado

FEATHER-LIGHT SATELLITES We’re used to big, heavy, incredibly machined Urwerks – which makes the latest UR-100V’s weight-loss programme a bit of strange experience. Made from 52 thin layers of carbon, the new timepiece maintains the independent watchmaker’s uniquely bold aesthetics and signature satellite timekeeping but in a case that weighs just 11 grams. With a textured rubber strap, this might just be the most wearable Urwerk to date. And yes, it comes in black. And only black. CHF 53,000 (approx. £42,000), urwerk.com

FRONT — aficionado

THE MACALLAN LAUNCHES 81-YEAR-OLD WHISKY Over 80 years have passed since The Reach, Macallan’s oldest ever expression, was laid down to age, making it a WWII survivor and what is believed to be the oldest single malt ever released. Mul that over for a second. Aged in a single, sherry seasoned oak cask, we’ve been promised that it’s suffused with notes of dark chocolate, treacle toffee, and peat, with a rich, sweet and smoky finish. It sounds perfect, though with only 288 decanters available worldwide, getting a taste is easier said than done. £92,000, limited to 288, themacallan.com

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS

BENTLEY ANNOUNCE FIRST BEV TO BE MANUFACTURED IN UK BEV stands for Battery-powered Electric Vehicle, but in this case, the B should be flying because luxury automotive giant Bentley have just announced their latest plans for BEV production. They have committed to creating five new electric cars (models, not units) from 2025 to 2030

as part of their aim to become carbon neutral from 2025 and impact zero from 2030. The first of these, which will also be Bentley’s first electric car, will be built here in the UK at their site in Crewe. It’s yet further proof that Britain does it best, if we haven’t already convinced you with last month’s magazine. Find out more at bentleymotors.com

Bentley’s first electric car, will be built here in the UK at their site in Crewe

FRONT — world news

KERING SELLS GIRARDPERREGAUX AND ULYSSE NARDIN There’s been a big shift for two of watchmaking’s most experimental haute horological brands. After a decade of ownership, the Kering Group have announced that it is selling GirardPerregaux and Ulysse Nardin to their management. The decision comes following the belief that Girard-Perregaux

Instead, Kering wants to focus on areas where it can help support growth

and Ulysse Nardin are both stable businesses that can support themselves long term and no longer require support from Kering. Instead, Kering wants to focus on areas where it can help support growth. However, while the name of the company at the very top has changed, hopefully the same can’t be said of GirardPerregaux and Ulysse Nardin themselves. Patrick Pruniaux will continue in his role of CEO for both brands and, while he might not have as much capital backing him, at least the creative side should remain the same. It’s definitely not upset the new Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck, which was launched after the announcement. It’s as bonkers you could hope.

BREITLING BECOME OFFICIAL PARTNER FOR SIX NATIONS RUGBY

WATCHES AND WONDERS 2022 One of the world’s largest luxury watch events is but one short month away now. Watches and Wonders is set to take place from 30th March in the traditional home of horology, Geneva. Last year’s event was a digital only affair due to global circumstances, but in 2022 a physical showcase is set to return. Despite the restrictions on the 2021 event, it still saw the introduction of watches that came to define the year. Tudor’s Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Green and the Bulgari Octo Finissimo that went on to win the main prize at the GPHG come to mind. This begs the question, what will we see at Watches and Wonders 2022? We’ll be right there to let you know. watchesandwonders.com

If Wimbledon is the most prestigious sporting event in Britain and the Premier League the most widely followed, then the Six Nations is the most fun. Of course, it also takes place in France, Ireland and Italy but a 50/50 split isn’t bad. No one knows how to enjoy themselves more than a rugby crowd. And for the next three years the official timing partner for the games will be Breitling, a first for the brand. This season the championship runs from February until the end of April, so there are still plenty of exciting games to watch. Breitling will also be involved in the Women’s Six Nations, the Autumn Nations and the run up to the Rugby World Cup in 2023. breitling.com

FRONT — world news

THE NFT CRAZE CONTINUES WITH LAMBORGHINI The craze everyone thought would end a week after it began is still going strong. And increasingly we’re being faced with the reality that they might actually be cool? In order to find the cool NFTs you have to look past variously attired monkeys and the people out for a quick buck and turn to artists and brands who have some serious credentials. For example, Lamborghini. The Italian hypercar maker knows how to create jaw dropping visuals, such as their inaugural NFT entitled Space Time Memory.

FRONT — world news

AIRCAR GIVEN OFFICIAL AIRWORTHY STATUS Flying cars are a concept that has always captured the collective imagination. You hop in the car at your home in the country, fly into the nearby city and drive straight from the runway to the city centre. They would revolutionise mid-distance travel. Well, thanks to Slovakian company Klein Vision, that dream is one step closer. Their cutting edge AirCar has been granted a certificate of Airworthiness, meaning it meets all European Aviation Safety Agency standards. That in turn means commercial production could be possible as soon as next year making it an exciting time for personal transport. klein-vision.com

Their cutting edge AirCar has been granted a certificate of Airworthiness, meaning it meets all European Aviation Safety Agency standards

THE ONE AUCTION BY SOTHEBY’S LISTS ONE OF AMERICA’S MOST EXCLUSIVE PRIVATE HOMES The ultimate billionaire’s residence is going up for auction at the start of this month with a listed price of £295 million. The mansion, known as The One, is situated in the hills above Los Angeles and has a footprint of 105,000 square-feet. To list just a few of its amenities, there are five swimming pools, a nightclub, multiple industrial grade kitchens, a full-service salon and spa, and a private cinema.

Not sure if ‘mansion’ is quite the right word here, as ‘small city’ seems entirely more appropriate. Bel Air awaits its newest discreet resident.

There are five swimming pools, a nightclub, salon and spa, and a private cinema

OMEGA OLYMPICS POP-UP RACES INTO BURLINGTON ARCADE Last month the winter sport greats of the world descended on Beijing for the Winter Olympics. Considering the Summer Olympics only took place last year due to delays, it’s interesting to have major sporting events back to back. And an Olympic Games of course meant that Omega was on everyone’s minds. They have a long history as the official partner of the Games and this year is no different. To celebrate the Games, they headed to Burlington Arcade for a new pop-up, replacing their previous James Bond themed instalment.

[Omega] have a long history as the official partner of the Games and this year is no different 29

FRONT — time out

OR ACLE

TIM E :O U T

@dialdaydreamer Breakfast is the most important meal of the day; vital for consuming more than just your morning coffee – as the aptly-named @dialdaydreamer has illustrated nicely in this magnificent pastry-wrapped shot. As a self-confessed collector of affordable watches, it’s good to see James put his camera lens where his mouth is, with a supremely cool tonneau Zodiac chrono front and centre. More importantly though is the latest edition of Oracle Time magazine, with

Roger Smith leading the charge for our Best of British issue. That and the croissant. It’s a magnificent croissant. Want to showcase your own eye for a perfectly composed watch shot? Well, get your hands on this issue, get snapping and don’t forget to use #oracletimeout for your chance to nab a page to yourself next month.

For now though, Oracle Time, Out.

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THERE ARE MANY WAYS to get your Oracle Time fix. Our favourite is of course within these lovely glossy pages to which you can subscribe via our website. An annual subscription containing 10 issues of the magazine is only £89.50, more value than a serious microbrand watch. Alternatively, you can come and say hello on one of our many digital channels. Instagram is the perfect place to share your wristshots and thoughts with us – remember to use #OTWristshot. Or you can watch our latest video content on YouTube, listening to the dulcet tones of our editor via our website using the QR code in the top right.

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FRONT — introducing

NEWS

INTRO DUCING

LEICA L1 and L2

If the impeccable machining and technical prowess of their cameras is anything to go by, a Leica watch has a lot to live up to. The new German-made L1 and L2 (power reserve and GMT respectively) manage to do so with aplomb. Not only built in The Black Forest, courtesy of Lehmann Präzision GmbH, they offer a patented push crown and a purist style echoing that of Leica’s legendary cameras. That means knurling and a crystal-like a camera lens. They’re solid, well-made… and pretty damn pricey for new steel timepieces. But hey, they’re still cheaper than the M-System.

IN DETAIL •

•

41mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance L1 / L2 calibre manual-wind movement with 60-hour power reserve L1 €9,500 (approx. £7,950), L2 €13,500 (approx. £11,300), leica-camera.com

BULGARI

Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon Blue

On the surface, the newest take on Bulgari’s seminal Carillon complication looks like nothing more than an aesthetic revamp. A cool, blue and silver one at that, including a new look movement, but not much else. Look a little deeper though and you’ll realise that new subtleties in the construction – like additional slots to help sound escape the case – help the chiming tour de force do what it does best. By that we mean chime, obviously.

IN DETAIL • •

•

44mm platinum case BVL428 calibre manual-wind movement with 75-hour power reserve $317,000 (approx. £234,000), limited to 30 pieces, bulgari.com

FRONT — introducing

LAURENT FERRIER Sport Auto

With its pebble smooth titanium case and typically pared-back dial, the latest from Laurent Ferrier is sports elegance at its finest, right down to the beautifully integrated bracelet. Designed as the watch Laurent Ferrier himself wishes he’d worn during his third place finish at Le Mans more than 40 years ago, the case is more robust than ever before, complete with improved water resistance. The Sport Auto might be among the brand’s simplest pieces, but don’t for a second think that makes it any less superlative.

IN DETAIL

41.5mm titanium case with 120m water resistance • F 270.01 calibre automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve • CHF 46,000 (approx. £36,725), laurentferrier.ch •

TAG HEUER

Formula 1 X Red Bull Racing Special Edition

After Max Verstappen’s F1 title win, it was never going to be long before TAG Heuer, the team’s timekeeping partner, leaned on their Red Bull connection – and here we are, a liveried special edition of the brand’s sporty quartz collection. Draped in blue and red and as performance styled as ever, it looks ready to hit the track.

IN DETAIL

43mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Quartz chronograph movement £1,650 (rubber), £1,800 (bracelet), tagheuer.com •

•

FRONT — introducing

MÜHLE-GLASHÜTTE

SAR Rescue Timer Limited Edition

A gold diver is a little odd and purists will hear nothing of it. But a gold-cased diver that retains its 1,000m water resistance? That’s downright insane. It’s also the latest limited edition take on MühleGlashütte’s military-slanted SAR Rescue Timer. There is a reason for the new watch of course, as it celebrates 20 years since it was launched back in (if you’re doing the maths) 2002. Either way though, this is possibly the most serious gold dive watch around. Not that there’s much competition.

IN DETAIL

42mm 18K gold case with 1,000m water resistance • SW 200-1 calibre automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve €13,500 (approx. £11,300), limited to 20 pieces, muehle-glashuette.de •

•

CERTINA

DS-2 Powermatic 80

Not only do Certina make some of the most accessible diving watches around, but now the Swatch Group brand have turned their hand to the zeitgeisty arena of retro throwbacks – and we love it. This tonneau beauty is water resistant to 200m, making it one of the more practical retro choices out there, and the tone-on-tone sunray silver and steel is a great-looking watch for under £800. Unless you get the pricier Milanese bracelet that is, which you definitely should.

IN DETAIL

40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance ETA 80.611 calibre automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • £770 (strap), £825 (bracelet), certina.com •

•

time stamping

Words:

Sam Kessler

Time Stamping THE ULTIMATE FORM OF TIMEKEEPING THAT MAKES GLOBAL TRADING A POSSIBILITY

We’re obsessed with time here at Oracle Time, right down to that extra second a month a watch gains or loses. It’s testament to the excellence of today’s timepieces that we can afford to be so picky, too. But what if your watch just isn’t accurate enough? What if even a quartz movement with its electrical circuit just doesn’t cut it to the millisecond? When it comes to the digital world, the tick of a second is an eternity. That’s where timestamping comes in. Put simply, timestamping is a record of the time and date of a particular event. It can be recorded manually but, generally, will be done digitally. It’s as

straightforward a concept as you can get, but creating a timestamp has its own issues. Let’s say we were sent information on a shiny new watch; a groundbreaking piece of haute horology, for example. We’d need to sign a non-disclosure agreement so that the hypothetical watchmaker in question could rest assured that we weren’t ruining their mechanical surprise. We sign it and send it over but, mere seconds afterwards it comes to the watchmaker’s attention that we’ve actually already shared an image or two on Instagram.

time stamping

The only way they can be sure if we broke the NDA or not is to know precisely what time it was signed and what time we posted the image of their watch. Given image leaks aren’t unheard of, it’s not a situation beyond the realms of possibility. I mean, we wouldn’t do such a thing, but you never know about shadier elements. In this example, we could just point to the time Instagram said the image was posted and when we sent the email with the signed NDA. But when it comes to transactions in the financial sector, every miniscule fraction of a second matters, and things get a lot more complex. It takes 150,000 microseconds to click a mouse; some stock exchanges already trade in nanoseconds.

Accurate time stamping would be the only way to tell whether a trade actually came in before or after another that, on the surface, seemed to happen almost simultaneously. The first step is to settle on a time for all timestamping to use – which is pretty simple, given the existence of Coordinated Universal Time. UTC is the ultimate global timezone, kept by taking the average of 70 independent labs and 500 atomic clocks from around the world. Now, even among those labs, monitoring time to the very limits of physics, there’s some deviation – hence the average being taken. So, computer clocks are always going to have a slight deviation from UTC. In human trading, If you think you’re a stickler for accurate time, some stock exchanges trade in nanoseconds, using Coordinated Universal Time, which takes the average of 70 independent labs and 500 atomic clocks from around the world

For High Frequency Trades, they have to be within 100 microseconds of Coordinated Universal Time. Good luck making a mechanical watch do that 39

that deviation can be up to a second. For High Frequency Trades, they have to be within 100 microseconds of UTC. Good luck making a mechanical watch do that. Obviously, it’s up to any company working in the financial sector to be able to synchronise their own clocks and re-synchronise with UTC whenever there’s a slight drift. But, would you believe it, there are the occasional bad actors in the financial world (it’s shocking I know) that might benefit from a few missing microseconds here and there. To solve that issue, there are plenty of third-party companies offering synchronisation and vetted timestamping (including Hoptroff of atomic clock fame), which ensure that everything is as up-to-date and accurate as it can be. As timestamping gets ever more vital for global business – not just in the financial sector, but across the board – these Trusted Timestamping services form the lynchpin of trustworthiness. Alternatively, there’s always the blockchain. Come on, you knew the tech was going to make an appearance. The innate trustworthiness of the information hosted on a blockchain means that it’s all but immutable and most cryptocurrencies already do their own timestamping on the decentralised ledger. It definitely cuts out the middleman, though with the tech still in its infancy (even if it seems like the discussion has been around forever) it’s hard to tell just how useful it could be when the number of trades is well into the billions rather than the relatively small number trading on the blockchain now. And, as more services use accurate timestamping, as more trades happen quicker than ever, the allowable deviation from UTC will be ever more unforgiving. Given we’re already at the limit of technological timekeeping, it’ll be interesting to see how (or even if) those margins can come down further. At the very least, it puts the rates of accuracy of our mechanical watches into perspective. Not that it’s ever going to stop me obsessively checking that my Seiko’s running perfectly though.

arbiters of taste

THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained Words by SAM KESSLER

[The Problems with Arbiters of Taste]

As we’ll discuss aplenty in this issue, taste is subjective. We all like different things and, honestly, thank God for that. It’d be a sad, boring world if we all wore the same clothes, listened to the same music and ate the same food. Sure, everyone would probably get on a lot better, but where’s the fun in that? It’s always struck me as odd that, if you listen to a vocal sub-sect of collectors, there are some watch brands that are objectively tasteless. Here I was preaching live and let live and yet, apparently, the mere existence of a limited edition Hublot or new Richard Mille tourbillon is enough to prove there’s true evil in the world.

The other day for example, I was browsing a certain ‘comedy’ Instagram account - let’s call it… @flameonpissed – who, in one of their posts, asserted that looking at a Hublot gave the writer cancer. I can only hope he’s since recovered and that adequate future research goes into preventing horological diseases. The bottom line is that there are plenty of self-professed arbiters of taste out there denouncing individual timepieces that they deem to be objectively odious. I’m not here to tell them they’re wrong; if they want to rage at pictures of watches, I’m happy to let them. What I want to know is: why? At the moment, there are a few reasons collectors dislike certain brands. The biggest is style – or at least a perception of what’s acceptable, stylistically. Most of the hated-on brands tend to produce big, sporty and, some might say flashy watches. You know which ones I mean. They’re essentially the wristwear equivalent of tearing round in a loud, brash and expensive Lambo – and often about as much fun. The thinking here is that the people buying these watches don’t understand what makes a good watch, that they’re uneducated in the ways of the wristwear elite. It’s never just that people like different things, it’s always that if they knew better, they’d like what I like. It’s rare that there are any qualms about the mechanics; it’s always pretty surface-level criticism. It’s also a worryingly easy trap to fall into. I can see why there was outrage at, for example, the Audemars Piguet Black Panther. It’s not to my taste and is, let’s be fair, a bit silly. But just because it’s not something I’d buy (even if I did have the money) does that make its mere existence a travesty? Well, let’s put it this way: I’d rather have more haute horology Marvel collabs than yet another retro diver re-issue. Any brand that can have fun with what they’re doing is fine by me. I’m not being forced to buy it. Granted, watchmakers that rely on ambassadors – sports ones especially – don’t do themselves many favours. Seeing an oversized watch strapped to a wrist at the wheel of a custom G-Wagen sends a certain message, and it’s a flashy one. But hey, if you don’t like that whole lifestyle, don’t buy into it. Then again, for the most vocal critics out there, that’s not a problem.

arbiters of taste

“ Both the hatred directed at certain brands for their aesthetics and brands for their lack of availability are two sides of the same coin ” 42

A less obvious and more understandable reason why some brands get hate is unavailability. If some brands get hate for producing watches, these are the ones that get hate for not producing enough. You know which producers I mean if you’ve ever thought about joining the wait list for a Rolex steel sports watch, Patek Nautilus of any description or (I assume) one of the new AP Jumbos. There’s genuine frustration that these watches are impossible to get hold of unless you’re willing to pay a preowned premium. There’s no real way around this. No matter the conspiracy theories out there, scaling up production isn’t a snap of the fingers anyway, especially when you’re already producing decent volume. So, what should we do about it? Find alternatives in similar styles or price ranges? Watches that do the same job from different angles? Nope, just complain about it on Reddit, while praising the fact that a small, independent watchmaker with watches priced out of the range of normal collectors has a waitlist of their own. Both the hatred directed at certain brands for their aesthetics and brands for their lack of availability are two sides of the same coin. One side is disliked by a collector because they would never buy one; the other because the same collector never could. Hell, quite often the coin lands on its edge. Now, I don’t want to paint all virulence in the watch world as coming from self-professed arbiters of taste who are salty that they’ll never get the new Sub at retail. Though they do tend to be the most vocal. There are genuine reasons to be dissatisfied with watchmakers. A lack of transparency when it comes to sourcing parts and production; a lack of imagination or, perhaps less harshly, playing it a bit too safe; even things like customer service come into it. And yet you’re far more likely to have all the nuance and discourse over style, design and the innate issues plaguing the watchmaking industry reduced to, simply, ‘this Hublot gave me cancer.’

FRONT — parmigiani tonda pf

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

A QUIET REVOLUTION PARMIGIANI’S TONDA PF MARKS A NEW CHAPTER FOR THE INDEPENDENT WATCHMAKER, ONE THAT WHISPERS RATHER THAN SHOUTS

FRONT — parmigiani tonda pf

Mr. Guido Terreni (above) is the man behind the Tonda PF’s brand reboot, having showcased his watch design skills for Bulgari, where he assisted the Italian luxury brand’s ascent into serious watchmaking with the industrial chic Octo Finissimo. The Tonda PF Chronograph (right)

Logically, I know that Parmigiani have always made damn fine watches. Their Fleurier manufacturer is a tour de force in independent vertical integration, the artisan crafts employed are always flawless and the calibres more than just mechanically sound. The problem is, watches aren’t really about logic. Otherwise, we’d all wear Apples. That’s a long-winded way of saying that I’ve never really connected to Parmigiani as anything more than a metal exercise. In the past it’s always been hard to put my finger on precisely why. I would – and have – happily have worn a Tonda 1950 but buying one never really entered into my mind.

Before the PF denoted quality; now it’s a mnemonic for Parmigiani as a whole 46

Granted, their price tags are beyond my means (as are most things just after tax season), but I still dream of owning a Moser & Cie Streamliner; why not a Parmigiani? Thankfully, it’s an enigma that the watchmaker themselves have answered – because the Tonda PF is everything that, to me, Parmigiani never was. Now, the Tonda PF isn’t drastically different to anything the watchmaker has done before. We’re not talking a reboot here, more a reinterpretation, largely thanks to Mr. Guido Terreni. Terrini has a record with watch design; he was one of the names behind the Octo Finissimo, an industrial chic creation that’s been a godsend for Bulgari’s ascent into serious watchmaking. Still, where that was building on the existing Octo and refining it into an ultra-thin masterpiece, the Tonda PF is, to all intents and purposes, a brand reboot. So why PF? Well, that was a seal that has traditionally always been engraved on Parmigiani bridges and rotors, as a kind of horological hallmark. The thinking therefore is that these new Tonda models are the new flagship for the brand. Before the PF denoted quality; now it’s a mnemonic for Parmigiani as a whole. Given the steel case and pared-back dial, it’d be easy to throw the Tonda PF in with the raft of sports elegance pieces out there, from your Nautili to your Alpine Eagles. It makes sense that Terreni would kick things off with an entry into that particular sub-genre; it’s more on-trend than a plant-based NFT, especially when it’s done well. But while yes, the PF has an integrated bracelet and yes, it’s nicely streamlined in a yacht-to-bar kind of way, just tagging it ‘sports elegance’ to feed the algorithm gods is a few keystrokes short of lazy. There’s a hell of a lot more going on here. The PF is all about detail. I don’t mean overly ornate guilloche or the kind of gunmaker engravings fit for a medieval tapestry, but simple elements done to perfection. The most obvious example of that is the dial. We’ve seen grain d’orge before, and it’s normally pretty eye-catching. Here though, the dial has used a CNC machine to create it at the smallest possible scale. The result is that it’s more a background texture than a statement engraving, and the watch is all the better for it. The minute track around the edge isn’t just contrast brushed; it’s actively sunken. The indexes aren’t just applied batons, they’re three-dimensional, faceted trapezoids. Even the PF logo at 12 o’clock is applied in two completely separate parts. Are any of these details immediately noticeable at a glance? Not really. But once you start looking beyond the sports elegance surface, there’s an iceberg of similar touches to admire. In fact, it’s a running theme that’s been taken to an illogical extreme. Look at the lugs. You see where they meet the caseband? That tiny stretch of metal on the

FRONT — parmigiani tonda pf

The new Tonda PF collection is the first real test of how things are shaping up under the influence of Guido Terreni. The four watches offer a more contemporary take on Parmigiani Fleurier’s signature sports watch and have replaced the verbose and dominating Parmigiani Fleurier inscription with a refined PF in an oval

There are still classic Parmigiani touches, like the fluted and polished two-layered bezel, which still holds to Michel Parmigiani’s original obsession with the golden ratio of Grecian columns. But it’s subtler than it ever was in the Toric; a side dish rather than an entrée

FRONT — parmigiani tonda pf

inside curve that you can barely see? That’s been painstakingly mirror polished. Why? By this point, I assume because they can. There are still classic Parmigiani touches, like the fluted and polished two-layered bezel, which still holds to Michel Parmigiani’s original obsession with the golden ratio of Grecian columns. But it’s subtler than it ever was in the Toric; a side dish rather than an entrée and deliciously complimentary. And that’s the crux of what makes the Tonda PF so much different than the days of Parmigiani past. Previously, they wore their expertise on their sleeve, as all good watchmakers are tempted to do. But that was their entire focus without a strong, holistic design to back it up. They shouted when they should have whispered. And the way the PF whispers would make a killing on the ASMR scene. It’s also a pretty versatile platform. It’s let Parmigiani bake a decent range of complications into the recipe, ranging from an integrated chrono to a phenomenally cool split seconds via way of an annual calendar. They’re all the same layout – making me look forward to a bit more variety come their 2022 release slate – but for all the excellence therein, it’s the simplest model that’s the best. The time-and-date Micro-Rotor is an avatar for the new direction of Parmigiani, emphasising small, almost unnoticeable details over complications. Equipped with the newest base movement for the watchmaker, the PF703, the platinum rotor dropped down into the

The quiet confidence of the Tonda PF includes a decent range of complications, including an integrated chrono and an extremely cool split seconds via way of an annual calendar

The time-and-date Micro-Rotor is an avatar for the new direction of Parmigiani, emphasising small details over complications movement means the entire thing is just 3mm thick. Terreni obviously has a thing for slim watches. After trying this out on the wrist, I’m inclined to agree. 40mm wide and rising to 7.8mm off the wrist, the Micro-Rotor is downright lovely to wear. The relatively wide bracelet sits snugly and, once you start recognising the various, under-the-radar design flourishes that have gone into the PF, it’s hard to keep your eyes off. So while the expertise that Parmigiani have honed over decades is still in full effect, and while they’re still the independent manufacturer they’ve always been, the PF is a welcome soft reboot for their watchmaking franchise – and I’m already looking forward to the sequel. Am I emotionally invested now? You bet I am.

rikki daman

It’s a pretty amazing feat that Scottish Watches even exists, let alone that it’s among the three biggest horological podcasts in the world. It’s not hard to see why though. The mix of sarcasm and banter between hosts Rikki Daman and David Sharp brings some much-needed lightness to a topic that, let’s be honest, can be a little dry. So, let’s start things as the guys would: with a wrist check. “I’m actually wearing our collaboration with Christopher Ward! This is the prototype. I was just chatting to Mike [France] and Roger [Smith] about it. It’s based on the C63 Sealander, so we call it the Highlander.” It’s a fitting name. As well as a dial in Saltire blue (the Scottish flag for any Europeans reading), it’s been printed with the St. Andrew’s cross across the dial. It’s a solid reinterpretation of Christopher Ward’s ‘everyman’s watch’ and shows off some cool detailing – that, at time of writing, I’m not at liberty to mention. Yet despite collaborating with some of the heaviest hitters in the watch world, it’s odd to realise that Rikki himself doesn’t come from some watch dynasty or collector-centric background. In fact, until five years ago, he didn’t care about watches. “I already had the car, had the house, had everything, so it was a watch next by default. There aren’t that many things a guy can buy. So, I went and got myself a pre-owned Rolex. After a day I realised it was losing something like a minute a day, so I started looking into it, checking Rolex forums and stuff like that.” And as anyone that’s been on a specialist forum knows, it’s easy to get lost down the rabbit hole. A couple years and an accidental Batman later – “I just asked about one and three months later the dealer called me up and said they had one. I had to have it, then!” – he was hooked. At first, the idea of a podcast was a joke: “I was bantering with this guy on Instagram, back and forth we’re on the same wavelength, same humour and we think about starting a podcast. His name’s Rick, so we decided to call it ‘Wrist Action with a Couple of Dicks’.” While we’d have loved the name to

Words:

Sam Kessler

Man of Influence:

RIKKI DAMAN of Scottish Watches

IT STARTED WITH A ROLEX AND A CHANCE MEETING, AND IS NOW AN INTERNATIONALLY RECOGNISED SHOW AMONG THE MOST LISTENEDTO SPECIALIST PODCASTS IN THE WORLD. HERE’S HOW RIKKI DID IT IN FIVE SHORT YEARS.

man of influence

Scottish Watches has welcomed a host of famous faces on the show, including Alexia and Evelyne Genta, daughter and wife respectively of legendary watch designer Gérald, as well as David Coulthard (above). The Scottish wallpapered version of the XYou (above, right) and the Rolex that started it all (right).

resurface, it wasn’t until a week later – at the launch of Chisholm Hunter in Glasgow’s Argylle Arcade – that it began to take shape. “I was late to the event so there were no seats left except next to this one guy. I sat down, got chatting and it turned out to be Rick! It was then we started to seriously consider working together. We wanted to do a community thing here in Scotland as there wasn’t anything, but we couldn’t come up with a name. I’d already registered @scottishwatches as my own personal Instagram account to keep my watch stuff separate (you know what it’s like, family and friends don’t want to see wrist shots 24/7, they think you’re mental), so we repurposed that.” All of this happened at the tail end of 2018 and, at the beginning of 2019, the last edition of SIHH landed. What a time to launch a watch podcast. “There was so much to cover we needed to do two shows a week! We expected to take it down to one after things had died down, but then

information kept flowing; there was a feedback loop. And unlike other shows we brought a bit of dynamic humour to things. We like to think of ourselves like the Top Gear of watches (back when they had Clarkson). That kind of feel of guys down the pub chatting about watches they love.” The format stuck. It got traction quickly, especially in the States, where they suddenly found 40% of their

audience were listening from. And as their audience grew and grew, so did their calibre of guest. For their 50th episode, they had on the notorious Archie Luxury – “I think it was one of the only times Paul Pluta has done a show and he has not sworn” – Edouard Meylan on the day the phenomenal Streamliner launched, and for episode 100, WatchBox’s Tim Mosso, one of Rikki’s personal industry heroes.

rikki daman

“I watched him intensely when I got into watches five years ago, the way he spoke about things, he made it interesting. I learned so much about watches that weren’t current or in the sphere of Rolex, Breitling and stuff like that. Then we had a write-up in the New York Times in 2020.” That was the final step to international recognition for the Scottish Watches podcast. Despite the format being a couple of guys bantering

and talking about the watches they like, it wasn’t long before they were among the most listened-to specialist podcasts in the world – let alone here in the UK. It was then that they started flexing their reach for their first collaboration with Swatch, a Scottish wallpapered version of the XYou, which they sold for just two months, without making a profit on each one. If you ever see one for sale, let me know; I’m still gutted I missed out on one.

So meteoric as this rise has been, have there been any moments where Rikki’s needed to pinch himself? “Today actually, with Roger. I realised halfway through talking about our black date window that I was talking to the greatest living watchmaker about our own custom Christopher Ward. That was a moment.” And it’s definitely a watch to be proud of, though I’ll reserve full judgement until getting it on my wrist; a glance over webcam just won’t do. I’m a fan of the base Sealander so I’m expecting good things. But that’s maybe not the best way to express what Scottish watches do. For their 300th episode, the guys had on both Alexia and Evelyne Genta, daughter and wife respectively of legendary watch designer Gérald. “At the time Alexia was unhappy with the mishmashes of awful, supposedly Genta-inspired designs that were ruining [Gérald’s] work, so we asked her on to talk about it. She said we should invite Evelyn as well so, on our 300th episode, we were talking to two incredible women in the industry, hearing stories that nobody had ever heard before. It was fantastic.” But that’s not all. At one point in the conversation, Evelyn mentioned that there was one Genta-designed watch she never managed to get hold of, a Universal Geneve Polerouter. Hearing that, a Scottish Watches listener emailed the guys to say that not only did he have one, he was willing to sell it to Evelyn. “So, I make the introduction, a couple of weeks go by, and I think nothing of it. Then I get an email from the guy saying that he’d just sat down for a cup of tea with Evelyn at the Embassy she works at and that the watch is now home once again.” Forget the number of people listening or the sheer weight of episodes that they’ve been listening too. If there’s one story that illustrates the success and impact of the little Scottish podcast that could, it’s that story. Hopefully we won’t show ourselves up too much when we’re finally invited on. That’d be a first. Visit scottishwatches.co.uk or Spotify, with two new episodes each week.

FRONT — jumbo joy

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

Celebrating

of the most successful luxury steel sports watch ever built THE ROYAL OAK MIGHT HAVE STARTED LIFE AS THE SAVIOUR OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, BUT IT WOULD GROW INTO SOMETHING OF FAR GREATER MAGNITUDE

You probably know the story by now. The quartz crisis was in full swing, a black hole devouring any hope of haute horology surviving the decade. It dragged in countless watchmakers, big and small, and wrapped its tendrils around Audemars Piguet – until the shining light of the Royal Oak burst through the gloom and saved watchmaking. Cue choral harmonies. Now, obviously hyperbolic as that all is, it’s true that the Royal Oak was a lifeline for the watchmaker. Had it gone awry, there’s a good chance Audemars Piguet wouldn’t be around today. Or at the very least would have needed to stage a revival. So, when the first Ref. 5402ST (ST of course denoting steel) made its debut at the Swiss Watch Show 1972, there was a lot at stake. The (for the period) large, 39mm stainless steel sports watch was like nothing that had come before, a rugged timepiece with industrial styling that was priced among the big boys of the watch world (At CHF 3,650 or £2,900, it was 10 times the price of a Rolex Submariner at the time). An integrated, impeccably machined bracelet, a clean, minimal dial and a name derived from an Old British warship, it was, in fact, revolutionary. What’s perhaps more impressive is the apocryphal story behind it: that legendary designer, Gerald Genta, only had one night to come up with the design. It goes that he received the brief from then-CEO Georges Golay the evening before the new watch was due to launch at Baselworld, that brief being an ‘unprecedented steel watch’. No pressure then. So, the designer took inspiration from a diving helmet he’d once seen – one with eight bolts and an octagonal face plate, and one that doesn’t seem to have existed in the first place. A stress dream brought on by an impossible deadline? Possibly. And we applaud him for it. Still, last-minute as the Ref. 5402 Royal Oak’s creation was, its success wasn’t perhaps as unexpected as it might have seemed. For one, there was already some interest in a steel sports watch from a major AP distributor, the Société Suisse pour l’industrie Horlogère; for another, Gerald Genta was already a horological household name, having previously designed the Omega Constellation and Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse. The Royal Oak wasn’t as much a deus ex machina as it was a well-reasoned bet, albeit one made on impulse.

After being handed a brief to create an ‘unprecedented steel watch’ the night before deadline, Gerald Genta (left) took inspiration from a diving helmet he’d seen with eight bolts and an octagonal face plate

The (for the period) large, 39mm stainless steel sports watch was like nothing that had come before, a rugged timepiece with industrial styling that was priced among the big boys of the watch world 59

FRONT — jumbo joy

To this day, the Ref. 15202 is the spitting image of its 1972 ancestor, a practically untouched artefact

The non-limited Ref. 15002 replaced the solid caseback Ref. 14802 and it brought gold versions (below and right) to the Jumbo range that made its debut at the Swiss Watch Show in 1972. An original Royal Oak poster (above) from the year of launch

Its impact was definitely felt. In the years right after release, it was followed rapidly by a slew of similarly designed steel sports watches, many of which Genta had a hand in himself, including the Patek Philippe Nautilus, IWC Ingenieur and others. In fact, it would be easy to put the Royal Oak’s success down to crossing the finish line first. But there’s more to it than that. The phrase ‘often imitated never duplicated’ comes to mind and that’s still true half a century on. Even Genta himself said that the Royal Oak Ref. 5402 was his masterpiece – and Audemars Piguet agreed. The Jumbo remained untouched until 1992 when, to celebrate 20 years of the Ref. 5402 (and end a 10year absence of the Jumbo from AP’s line-up) the watchmaker released a thicker, anniversary limited edition, the Ref. 14802, which added a display caseback to proceedings. Which they immediately backtracked on with the non-limited Ref. 15002, replacing the solid caseback and thinning things out again. The main difference though is it brought in gold versions and, as 39mm cases were no longer considered huge, started to be called the ‘Extra-Thin’ more often than the Jumbo. Which brings us to the Royal Oak, the version of the iconic watch that we all know and love: the Ref. 15202. Released in 2000, this added an exhibition caseback like the Ref. 14802, but maintained its svelte appearance and, more importantly, the same two-hand calibre 2121 that was first used in Genta’s original Royal Oak. In fact, it got more authentic in 2012, when the logo (that when it was released in 2000 was at 12 o’clock) was moved back to six o’clock, making them virtually identical to the Ref. 5402. To this day, the Ref. 15202 is the spitting image of its 1972 ancestor, a practically untouched artefact and, while Audemars Piguet have expanded here and there, with larger or smaller variants, it’s the 39mm, plaindialled versions that are what you, me and most AP lovers want. That was all until last year, when soon-to-be-ex-CEO of Audemars Piguet CEO François-Henry Bennahmias announced that the lifespan of the 15202 was over, that the collectors’ darling would be replaced. It made sense; 2022 was the 50th anniversary of the Jumbo, and if it were ever going to usher in its successor, now would be the time. And hey, if the Nautilus can be killed, so too can the Ref. 15202. And so, we have the shiny new Ref. 16202.

FRONT — jumbo joy

FRONT — ref. 16202

THE KING IS DEAD. LONG LIVE THE KING THE REF. 16202 HOLDS A SPECIAL PLACE IN THE HEART OF MANY, BUT A NEW SERIES OF ANNIVERSARY EDITIONS CONTINUE THE LEGACY WITH THE BENEFIT OF AN UPDATED MOVEMENT AND MECHANICS

There are four new variants of the Ref. 16202, all with distinctly different personalities. The piece that is likely already sold out for a few years is the version in steel with a new blue dial. It’s as aesthetically close to the Ref. 5402 as possible and, while the ‘bleu nuit’ colouring is slightly different, it’s close enough that it scratches the same itch. Then, we have two gold versions, one in rose and one in yellow. The rose, with its slate grey dial is standard modern AP, a colourway we’ve seen a fair few times dotted among their collection. It’s handsome, glitzy and contemporary.

The yellow is much more unusual and is by far my favourite of the four. Yes, a Royal Oak in gold will have puritans shuddering, but it’s been that way for 30-odd years now. Get over it. And here the now-retro yellow gold is paired with a precious metal fume dial. It’s incredibly eye-catching, with a more striking contrast between the yellow and black than you’d normally see with this type of smoked effect. It's flashy, loud and I love it. The final variation is one we’ve seen recently in limited edition form:

platinum with a green sunburst case. Anyone that invested in last year’s 15202 might be a little miffed at now seeing a direct replacement but hey, you bought into one of the last runs of one of the most successful timepieces ever built. You’ll be fine. I do miss the Petite Tapisserie of course, but there’s no denying that the deep green sunburst hits the zeitgeisty nail on the head. Otherwise, on the wrist these are the Jumbos you know and love. There’s nothing groundbreaking here; they hew incredibly close to the Ref. 15202 so as to make little to no difference. That is, of course, except for what’s inside: the new movement. When the original Ref. 5402 was launched in 1972, it housed the JaegerLeCoultre Calibre 920. The movement was a collaborative one, a project led by JLC that was funded by AP, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. When the calibre came out in 1967 it was one of the most innovative of its era and each of the partners in its creation took to it instantly, each giving it their own twist and renaming it. For Audemars Piguet, it became the Calibre 2121, an ultra-thin 3.05mm movement with an anti-shock system and a then-decent 40-hour power reserve. In fact, so cutting-edge was the calibre that the 2121 has remained in the Jumbo consistently across the last 50 years. That is, until now. A single digit can make a world of difference and the Calibre 7121 isn’t your daddy’s ultra-thin movement. For one, it’s a little bit fatter, at 3.2mm. Don’t worry though, that change isn’t actually noticeable inside the Jumbo case, which always had plenty of room for its older movement. More importantly, that extra size translates into some serious performance upgrades. A larger barrel takes the power reserve up to 55-hours, a much-needed qualityof-life change, while bi-directional winding means that you can fill that reserve quicker and more efficiently than ever. It comes with a quick-change date system, always nice to have, and a balance wheel fitted with inertia blocks to lower friction. Even the frequency has been improved, 28,800hz compared to the 2121’s 19,800hz. In short, the new

FRONT — ref. 16202

The blue-dialled steel version (above) will appeal to hardcore traditionalists, but for the more adventurous there’s a choice of two gold versions, as well as a facsimile of last year’s limited edition

FRONT — ref. 16202

models are mechanically better and more reliable than any that have come before. Not a bad anniversary present. On that note, along with all the lovely finishing you might expect - Côtes de Genève, traits tires, circular graining – along with a 50th anniversary rotor. While none of these pieces are limited editions, that rotor is – or, more accurately, limited production. The shiny new rotor will be used across all of AP’s anniversary releases, but only for 2022. Note that down for future auction catalogues. As far as I’m concerned, everything

The shiny new rotor will be used across all of AP’s anniversary releases, but only for 2022. Note that down for future auction catalogues about these new models is good news. If you’re a hardcore traditionalist, there’s the blue-dialled steel version. If you do want something a little bit more extroverted, in line with the Ref. 15202 rather than the earlier Ref. 5401, there

are the gold versions, one far more pared back than the other. Finally, if you missed last year’s limited edition, you can get yourself a facsimile of it. The updated movement is both overdue and welcome, bringing the models bang up to date mechanically. Finally, the 2022-only rotor is downright ingenious, turning a regular collection piece into a hot limited edition for a genuinely understandable reason. All in all, this might be the most fitting successor to the Ref. 15202 we could have received. Good luck getting your hands on one.

OUR FIVE FAVOURITE VERSIONS OF THE REF. 15202

Yes, the Ref. 16202 is lovely and an apt evolution of the Jumbo, but it’s the end of an era, and one we’re a little sad to see go. So, to salve our nostalgic souls a little, let’s take a look at five versions of the iconic 15202 that encapsulate just why it was the most successful luxury sports watch in history.

The Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202ST

The Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202BA for The Hour Glass

Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202IP Titanium & Platinum

The Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202BC Boutique Edition

The Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202BA Full Gold

The steel case and Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 dial was, when it was released in 2000, the spiritual successor to the first 5402ST, the original luxury steel sports watch. It’s a classic and the Royal Oak that any devout collector wants to add to their collection. It was unobtainable before this year and god only knows what it’ll be like on the preowned market now. Its replacement is still just as authentically Audemars Piguet, but the retirement of the 15202ST is a melancholic thing.

AP were ahead of the curve in two respects with this 2015 release. First, it was a boutique edition, something that’s far more commonplace now than it was seven years back. Secondly, it has a dial that's such a dark green it almost looks black. Green’s everywhere now, but then much less so. Throw in that only 50 of these pieces were made for Singaporean retailer, The Hour Glass, complete with a custom rotor, and you have one of the rarest 15202s outside of Only Watch.

Not only does this 2017 250-piece limited edition offer a lightweight, durable titanium case – essentially a thematic evolution of the luxury steel sports watch – it caps said case with a polished platinum bezel. Yes, that undercuts the point a little, but boy is it a beauty. The mix of brushed and polished finishes – and the flight colour differences in the metals – makes for a more nuanced look. Paired with a handsome blue dial, it’s as if the 15202ST looked in a mirror and though, ‘I can do better’.

As a refresher, ST obviously means steel, OR is rose gold, PT is platinum and BA is yellow gold. That of course leaves BC as white gold, which is what we have in this 2019 release. But honestly, the case of this boutique edition wasn’t the stand-out aspect, it’s all about that salmon dial. It’s absolutely magnificent and the rose gold colouring shows off the Petite Tapisserie to the full. As a very limited production (around 75 per year) boutique edition, it’s also a rarity.

Reintroduced back in 2017, this is a statement piece if ever there was one, and the 15202BA with both a gold case and matching dial is a monochromatic beauty. Even the date window is coloured to match. Much as I love the new, fume replacement for it, there’s something to be said for the pure tone-ontone look, as true for this as it’s always been for the Rolex President. Though honestly, if I saw any president wearing this I’d have to worry a bit about corruption… it’s not exactly subtle.

tom kerridge

Words:

Nick Savage

BRINGING HOME THE BACON HAVING PROVIDED FOOD FOR NHS WORKERS AND SUPPORTED MARCUS RASHFORD’S MEALS CAMPAIGN THROUGH LOCKDOWN, THE INITIATIVES AND IDEAS CONTINUE TO TUMBLE FROM THE EVER-ENTHUSIASTIC TOM KERRIDGE

tom kerridge

Tom Kerridge is a man of tremendous stature, both in height and within Britain’s dining scene, where he has become perhaps its most recognisable publican, and famously the first chef to secure two Michelin stars at his pub The Hand & Flowers in Marlow. I catch up with him on the eve of the launch of his special mealkit with Dishpatch, as well as his Pub in the Park festival series.

The pandemic has posed unparalleled problems for the hospitality business, so I wanted to check in and see how things are faring for you. The Hand and Flowers is always very strong. But the lack of business lunches or dinners straight after work is affecting big city restaurants. Kerridge’s Bar and Grill at The Corinthia in London is a

little quieter from Monday to Thursday than it used to be. But, weekend leisure trade is still very, very busy. People are excited. The weekends are pretty much what they were normally. Businesses aren’t losing money right now, but they’re not making any. So it’s treading water - which is an improvement on throwing money away.

tom kerridge

After a period away, do you think people are ready to return to regular restaurant dining? I think everybody recognises what they felt was missing from their lives. We like being around each other. We like connection. We like the noise of football matches, walking around galleries, Christmas shopping, going to museums. There’s an energy created from a space. It’s a good time to change our mindset when it comes to purchasing a meal. When you are in a restaurant, you are not paying for the food, you are paying for the supply line of butcher, farmer, fishmonger and delivery man, as well as chefs, waiting staff, bar staff and reservationists. All of these people are now connected to the steak that you’ve ordered. Yes, a restaurant is much more expensive than Sainsbury’s – it has more connecting pieces. We need to educate people to think about how their dinner arrived in front of them. You’re paying for the food to be here, rather than paying for the actual item of food. I think now, more than ever, we are ready for a new understanding.

The pandemic might have slowed midweek trade for Tom Kerridge, but he’s as busy as ever with the Michelin-starred The Hand & Flowers, Pub in the Park festivals, charity causes, and Dishpatch delivery service

Charity has always been an important part of your career. What charitable causes are close to your heart at the moment? We set up Meals from Marlow right at the beginning of the pandemic and it still exists now. It’s currently at a slightly smaller scale than was set up to feed frontline NHS. But that’s being handed back to the government. It’s now their responsibility to make sure that doctors and nurses should be fed. I also started a full-time meals campaign with Marcus Rashford. We put it together to showcase great-value, budget-friendly dishes that work in connection with the Healthy Start vouchers, working with Facebook and Instagram with videos going live every Sunday, featuring stars from music and sport. Louis Tomlinson cooked a fish sandwich with 1.6 million people watching. It was great. Are you wearing a watch today? Where do your interests in watches lie? I like my watches. Right now, I’m wearing a 22-year-old Rolex Submariner. My wife bought it for me for our 20th wedding anniversary. I wear that and I’ve got a Panerai Luminor that’s quite big; it’s robust. It works in a kitchen. It’s a working watch. It gets bashed about in steam. I like that. And on special occasions, I’ve got a Hublot Big Bang, which comes out when I’ve got to try and look posh!

Do you have any projects in store that will tap into this newfound ebullience for going out? Pub in the Park is a food and music festival we’re running that’s now seven years old. It grew from one site in Marlow and this year we’re doing nine. It has great growth potential and people are loving it. It’s more Michelin star chefs than you can think of and brilliant bands like Rag’n’Bone Man, Happy Mondays, Sister Sledge and Kaiser Chiefs. It’s happening in Marlow, St. Albans, Warwick, Tunbridge Wells and Brighton this year. There’s a vibrancy. Ticket sales are going very well. People want to get out and about. So it’s a real good way of embracing everything; wrapping food and music together in a festival vibe.

We need to educate people to think about how their dinner arrived in front of them. You’re paying for the food to be here, rather than paying for the actual item of food. I think now, more than ever, we are ready for a new understanding 69

And, what would be your last meal? I’m all about comfort food and proper hearty grub. For my last meal I’d get Dishpatch to deliver my menu from The Coach. It’s packed with my favourite dishes we serve at the pub, plus it’s a real representation of the classic British cooking that I love. You can’t get much better than potted shrimp with some freshly grilled sourdough, an ale-braised beef short rib with English mustard mash and the ultimate pud - a sticky date and toffee pudding with Jersey clotted cream. I would definitely die happy, and very full.

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Off-White take on the

Layer up with all the

varsity jacket in time

kit you need to make the

for spring

transition to spring

EDITED BY

BENEDICT BROWNE & SAM KESSLER

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wardrobe a triumphant return to action

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Benedict Browne helps us to exercise good taste this season \

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London’s style scene in the worlds of the men helping to define it \

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Ensure your dinner party chat sparkles with a flash of

Developing style >—> Taste is subjective, apparently. Detractors would say this couldn’t possibly be true though as they point towards Jeremy Clarkson’s boot cut jeans. Thankfully, Jeremey wasn’t available to edit this issue, so instead five of Britain’s finest tastemakers have stepped in to provide their take on the finest places to eat, drink and be seen in London, as well as offering their advice to those looking to develop their own sense of style. After all, this is The Taste issue. Benedict Browne is one of those tastemakers and he stuck around to share his style manifesto, while our kit bag will ensure that your transition from winter coat to spring wear isn’t a struggle.

Oracle Style — Mar.22

horological style

STYLE — most coveted

Edited by SAM KESSLER

SCHOOL’S OUT Varsity jackets are returning in time for spring and Off White are ready for the transition

>—> Last month’s Superbowl cemented the fact that the biggest sports events have more fashionistas than any Parisian catwalk, with more custom outfits from haute couture labels than a red carpet premiere. But you don’t need to drape

yourself in head-to-toe in Louis Vuitton (a la Kendrick Lamar) to hit one of the sartorial high notes of the season. Varsity jackets are back. Granted that’s the case every few seasons, but as the perfect transitional bit of sports-slanted

outerwear, we’re not complaining. At the baseline, this number from Off-White is your standard Varsity jacket, in simple, highcontrast black and white, complete with the contrast striped rib knit cuffs, collar and hem that makes these jackets so damn comfortable. On top of that, the label has gone haywire with multi-coloured patches, mainly with a bright orange, to add some life to the design. That’s especially true of the back with a funky alien in ‘deep meditation’ dominating. There’s no missing when this jacket’s from either, given the ‘Spring-Summer 2022’ lettering. As well as a cool nod to the season’s collection, that alone might make this a bit of a collectors’ piece. Without Virgil Abloh at the helm, change is undoubtedly coming to the label and having a key piece from the transitional period of one of the planet’s coolest brands is definitely not nothing. Off-White Varsity Jacket, £2,145 Available at off--white.com

STYLE — style manifesto

The epitome of taste

Informale Army Chino

>—> Australia has a bit of a bad reputation when it comes to fashion – board shorts and flip-flops are to blame – but the Melbournebased Informale is giving the Antipodean country serious style credentials. Everything is made in the city and draws influence from European tailoring, specifically from the Neapolitan school of thought – think relaxed shoulders, comfortable silhouettes and breathable fabrics. These Army Chinos are inspired by a 1940s officer trouser, and are crafted from a robust cotton twill that's woven in Japan. With a high-rise which complements tailoring, they look just as good with a white T-shirt and pair of canvas sneakers. informale.com.au

When it comes to clothing, footwear and accessories – but more generally style – how does one exercise good taste? This issue's theme is, of course, Taste, so it seems appropriate to visually map out the boundaries of what good taste means and looks like in a post-pandemic world. Good taste necessitates a rounded understanding that’s not trend-driven, as when buying anything one should be thinking about the product's longevity, which is determined by the trifecta of materials, construction and style.

Edited by BENEDICT BROWNE

Bennett Winch cargo bag

Morjas Trainer

>—> With travelling now back on the menu (and a lot to catch up on too), it's worth investing in a suitable bag. Enter Bennett Winch, the only British luggage brand worth knowing, whose recent creation, The Cargo provides all you need for a holiday or road trip through Europe. Made in northern England, it's constructed from a robust high-performance nylon with leather trims and military-grade hardware. It comes with removable waterproof pouches for your laundry and valuables, and will last you a lifetime. bennettwinch.com

>—> The sneaker market is possibly the most saturated space within the fashion industry, as it's feverishly driven by unjustifiable hype and constant newness. It's therefore a tough game to play a part in and keep up with, unless you go with a timeless classic such as this running sneaker from the Swedish footwear brand Morjas. Housed on a gum sole, which helps give it a vintage feel, the combination of neutral shades with soft suede and calf leather makes it really attractive and smart. With no loud branding, the clean and simple design does all the talking. morjas.com

STYLE — style manifesto

The Workers Club Chambray Shirt

>—> The Workers Club has garnered a more than justified reputation for crafting versatile and long-lasting clothing, and the brand does so by working extremely closely with its hand-picked network of manufacturers. New for this season, this two-pocket chambray shirt has been expressly made for them in an artisanal workshop in Madras, India, using a locally-woven and authentic fabric that will develop charming signs of age. Whether worn at work with a navy blazer, or simply with a tracksuit at home, it's your new favourite shirt, you just don't know it yet. theworkersclub.co.uk

Buzz Rickson Combat Coat via Clutch Cafe

>—> Steeped in history, the 1st pattern Jungle Jacket was a standardissue garment worn by the US Army during the Vietnam War. It's a classic in every sense and the utilitarian design is still relevant 60 years after its inception. The Japanese brand Buzz Rickson specialises in stitch-for-stitch reproductions of iconic vintage military clothing, and this Jungle Jacket is a sterling example. The cotton poplin cloth is lightweight, hardwearing, improves with each wear, and thanks to the generous and versatile cut, it can be worn year-round, too. clutch-cafe.com

Merz. b Schwanen Loopwheeled Sweatshirt

>—> The key to a sustainable and versatile wardrobe is investing in the foundations, which is why you should familiarise yourself with Merz. b Schwanen, a German knitwear specialist that simply makes the best basics you can find. Merz’s USP is that it uses newly-restored loopwheel machines dating from 1890 to 1960 which slowly but surely warp a garment together, and ensure a durable and seamless construction that doesn’t lose its shape. Most brands wouldn’t work with these machines due to the maintenance they require and the speed in which they can work, but the results speak for themselves. A simple grey crewneck constructed from top of the range organic cotton sweatshirt is like a best friend; reliable, comforting and always there for you. merzbschwanen.com

Kirk Originals

>—> The UK used to have a thriving eyewear industry until overseas manufacturing became the prevailing theme. Kirk Originals buck that trend with its Made in England ethos as they produce some of the finest handcrafted frames you can set your eyes on (and through) from a small workshop. The Granger model is one of the brand's bolder styles of frames and is constructed from thick 8mm Italian tortoiseshell acetate fronts, which provide weight and reliability. With hand-sculpted features, it has plenty of attitude while not being overbearing. kirkoriginals.com

STYLE — the tastemakers

Words by

Charlie Thomas

MEET THE TASTEMAKERS London’s style scene in the worlds of the men that are helping define it

London and style go hand in hand. The city has long been a hotbed of fashion, from the numerous youth subcultures that began in the capital to the exciting mix of heritage and contemporary brands that line its famous streets. The city founded punk, gave rise to mods and teddy boys, and has long been the home of tailoring with Savile Row and Jermyn Street - it’s a continual source of inspiration, with its 32 boroughs all offering something different around every corner. But what exactly does London’s style landscape look like today? To get the lowdown we spoke to five of the city’s most stylish men for their take on the capital. From the best menswear streets to the most underrated pubs, they offer tips on where to go, what to see, and how to dress.

STYLE — the tastemakers

RICHARD BIEDUL

What’s your favourite restaurant in London? It would depend what mood I’m in and what part of town I find myself in, but if we are basing it on a frequency, it would have to be Franco’s on Jermyn Street. Best pub or bar? I’m four and a half years sober, so truth be told, I don’t even know if my favourite bar is even still in existence. And even if it was, I don’t know if anyone would actually want to be directed there! Best cafe? Are we talking Caf? Or Café? The best greasy spoon has to be E Pellicci…but for coffee and pastry I would say The Deli Downstairs. Your favourite area of London? As a 38-year-old owner of two dogs, I live just off Victoria Park and couldn’t ever imagine living anywhere else. The location has the benefits of the green open space and the village has every amenity you could need, but for me it’s because of the community. This is the first place I’ve ever lived where I know my neighbours, my neighbour’s neighbours and their neighbours. What’s the first thing someone should do when visiting London? Buy an I heart london T-shirt and go to an Aberdeen Angus steak house. What’s your favourite thing to do in the city? Absolutely nothing. Which can lead to doing almost everything and anything. Favourite museum or gallery? The Photographers’ Gallery, Soho.

model and creative director

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What’s your latest wardrobe investment? In January I was at Paris Fashion Week and found time to visit Nicolas Gabard of Husbands. We talked, drank some coffee and I ended up placing an order for an MTM sports jacket and two pairs of trousers (one black corduroy and one brown flannel). What’s the favourite item of clothing you own? Some items have more sentimental value than others; my late Grandfather’s shearling aviator jacket, which comes out of storage for a few months each year. My first ‘work suit’ - a chalkstripe Paul Smith, three button long line jacket, with high rise, bootcut trousers, which is just as current now as it was when I bought it 22 years ago. I also adore the sample of the alpaca ballet coat I designed for King & Tuckfield. This was the first item that we worked on together from concept to production and it never fails to draw compliments when it’s worn. What’s the best shopping street in London? Duke Street, Lamb’s Conduit Street, Chiltern Street. These all have a certain charm, but for me it will always be Savile Row. What’s one London-based brand everybody should know? For the past few years I’ve been really impressed with what Adam and Seto are doing over at Adret on Clifford Street. The guys have developed a uniquely relaxed yet tailored aesthetic. Louche suiting, slubby cotton shirts and luxury knitwear. It’s somehow simultaneously mid-century and contemporary at the same time. What’s the one accessory you never leave home without? A hat. From beanie to bucket, I will almost always have one or the other on my person. My current favourites come from Connor Reilly and Erdem. What’s one tip you’d give to someone looking to develop their own sense of style? Whatever you do, dress for your body type. Take the time and make the effort to understand your body’s size and dimensions. This will enable you to choose clothing that places an emphasis on the positive aspects of your body, while diverting attention away from areas that might be a little less than desirable.

STYLE — the tastemakers

ALEKS CVETKOVIC

Your favourite area of London? Stoke Newington, my home. I’ve been there for three years and it’s got everything. It’s cool but not too cool. There are some great foodie hotspots and Clissold Park is a godsend. What’s the first thing someone should do when visiting London? Walk along the South Bank and dip into everywhere along the way. What’s your favourite thing to do in the city? Wander through The Wallace Collection on a quiet Tuesday morning when you’ve more-or-less got the place to yourself. Favourite museum or gallery? If not the Wallace Collection, I enjoy working out of the British Library Reading Rooms once in a while. The weight of knowledge held in that space is so impressive you can almost feel it.

journalist and creative strategist

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What’s your latest wardrobe investment? A killer quilted gilet from LEJ. It’s the most versatile layering piece I’ve ever bought. What’s the favourite item of clothing you own? My Edward Sexton double-breasted navy blazer with gilt buttons. Blazers are often written off as stuffy, but if you style them in a relaxed way they’re incredibly useful. What’s the best shopping street in London? Clifford Street. Adret, Connolly, and the Anderson & Sheppard haberdashery are perhaps the three coolest shops in the city. What’s one London-based brand everybody should know? I’ve just discovered a tailor in west London called Speciale. Two young guys with great style, making superb suits out of a small, but perfectly formed atelier in Portobello. If you’re after a beautiful suit, they’re the men to see. What’s the one accessory you never leave home without? My Smythson Soho notebook. I get through half-a-dozen a year. What’s one tip you’d give to someone looking to develop their own sense of style? Hold to the truth that clothes are a means of personal expression. If they make you feel good, then wear them – and be damned what anyone else thinks. What’s your favourite restaurant in London? St John or Brutto. Please don’t make me choose between them. Best pub or bar? My neighbourhood, Stoke Newington, has some superb pubs. The Shakespeare ticks all the boxes for me. It’s stuck in a 1980s time-warp. Best cafe? Norman’s. Go for brunch and order two courses. The Red Leicester and beans on toast, followed by the porridge and jam.

STYLE — the tastemakers

“ Hold to the truth that clothes are a means of personal expression. If they make you feel good, then wear them – and be damned what anyone else thinks ”

STYLE — the tastemakers

“ It’s a piece of history, which you can’t say about most articles of clothing. It had blood stains on it, but they’ve since washed out, which is a shame ”

STYLE — the tastemakers

BENEDICT BROWNE

What’s one London-based brand everybody should know? Scott Fraser Collection. It has a huge point of difference compared to what else you can find in London, and a large majority of it is made here in small workshops. What’s the one accessory you never leave home without? My watch, which is a Rolex Date-Just on a steel bracelet with a black face. My birthday is engraved on the back and it’s my most prized possession. What’s one tip you’d give to someone looking to develop their own sense of style? Don’t listen to anyone else, including me. Trial and error is the way forward. What’s your favourite restaurant in London? Lore of the Land in Fitzrovia. It was recently recommended to me by a friend and I’ll forever be grateful. It’s one of Guy Ritchie’s pubs, and I was lucky enough to sit at the bar and watch my food being prepared. The steak tartare was mindblowing and I also sampled, courtesy of the chef, grilled duck hearts. I’ve always been a bit put-off by offal, but Ali (the head chef) explained that it’s not like other offal dishes, as it’s a clean organ and that it’s a muscle more than anything else. Best pub or bar? I’m biased but it’s The Whippett Inn in Kensal Rise, my local watering hole. Best cafe? Vicki’s, which is also in Kensal Rise. Your favourite area of London? West is best. Simple as that. What’s the first thing someone should do when visiting London? Go for a pint in a proper pub. What’s your favourite thing to do in the city? Run east along the canal and finish at the top of Primrose Hill in time for sunrise above the City. Favourite museum or gallery? You can’t beat the Tate Modern; it’s one of the best art galleries in the world. The architecture of the place is ridiculous and the artworks inside are iconic. Plus, being on the Southbank, it’s pretty cool to see the grandness of Westminster.

menswear st ylist and journalist

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What’s your latest wardrobe investment? My most recent acquisition is a double-breasted suit made for me by Caroline Andrew Bespoke, using a chocolate chalk stripe flannel woven in Italy by Vitale Barberis Canonico. It’s razor-sharp and quite unconventional, while also being classic in nature. It’s great for mixing up work and play. What’s the favourite item of clothing you own? A vintage OG-107 shirt from the Vietnam War, kindly gifted to me by the boys at Broadway & Sons in Gothenburg. It’s a piece of history, which you can’t say about most articles of clothing. It had blood stains on it, but they’ve since washed out, which is a shame. What’s the best shopping street in London? Chiltern Street in Marylebone. You’ve got a mix of retailers, brands and craftspeople, such as Trunk Clothiers, John Simons, Sunspel, Velesca and Cromford Leather, which is arguably the world’s finest leather specialist. Plus, the area is delightful and quiet with a range of nice restaurants and bars to fuel yourself in.

STYLE — the tastemakers

MATS KLINGBERG

What’s your favourite restaurant in London? River Café. Best pub or bar? Ladder Shed and Chiltern Firehouse. Best cafe? Monocle Café. Your favourite area of London? Marylebone. It’s still not as well known among tourists, so it has more of a residential feel than many other parts of London. It’s got a great central location with a lovely mix of shops, restaurants and plenty of green spaces. I travel a lot, so the quick access to and from Heathrow via Paddington Station is great. What’s the first thing someone should do when visiting London? Go for a walk or a run in one of its many parks and then take it from there. What’s your favourite thing to do in the city? I love starting the day with a run around Regent’s Park with a quick stop on top of Primrose Hill to get a good view of London, before getting on with my day. On weekends I like visiting one of the very good food markets, and/or to go to some nice restaurants. There’s always something new and interesting to try out. Favourite museum or gallery? I don’t get to visit museums and galleries that often unfortunately, but I always enjoy visiting Stephen Friedman’s gallery on Old Burlington Street.

founder of Trunk

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What’s your latest wardrobe investment? A new pair of brown Chambords from Paraboot, as I wear them all the time and thought I needed to give them a chance to rest a bit between wears. What’s the favourite item of clothing you own? There’s a navy Boglioli K jacket that I’m wearing as I’m writing this and that has been with me for many years now, so that must be the one. What’s the best shopping street in London? I’m of course very biased, but I think Chiltern Street is the best shopping street in London with it’s nice mix of independent shops. Besides Trunk there’s Sunspel, Casely-Hayford, Mouki Mou, Anatome, John Simons, Shreeji, New & Lingwood, Niwaki, Perfumer H, and while technically not on Chiltern Street you also have Labour and Wait just around the corner on Dorset Street. And then you of course also have Monocle Café and the Chiltern Firehouse. What’s one London-based brand everybody should know? Trunk, of course! While we started out as a multibrand, we’re now also very much a clothing brand. Almost a third of the shop is now Trunk’s own brand. We cover all the basics and have lots of good pieces that can easily be mixed and matched with each other, as well as dressed up or down. What’s the one accessory you never leave home without? My wallet. What’s one tip you’d give to someone looking to develop their own sense of style? Look at people around you and get inspired from what you see and read about in magazines, blogs, and on social media. Then find a couple of good shops where you’ll be well looked after when trying different things on. I’m always amazed to see the difference a garment that fits can make to someone’s posture and self-esteem. If it’s right, you will usually know straight away. A great shop assistant is there to guide you through the process and to get you to try different things on, but at the end of it it always comes down to you to try and figure out what works.

“I’m always amazed to see the difference a garment that fits can make to someone’s posture and self-esteem”

STYLE — xxxxxxx

STYLE — the tastemakers

What’s the favourite item of clothing you own? My beautiful raglan sleeve 1960s alpaca wool belted coat. Purchased about six years ago from legendary vintage store Hunky Dory. Ian and Ian are the nicest people in the business. What’s one London-based brand everybody should know? I have to say my friend’s menswear brand, Scott Fraser Collection. An inventory of beautiful menswear items from high waisted pleated trousers to suiting and Italian knitwear, all with a mid-century nod. What’s the one accessory you never leave home without? A watch. I’m lucky to have a few, from Omegas to swatches. I would never dream of leaving the house without one on my wrist. What’s one tip you’d give to someone looking to develop their own sense of style? Start with a good pair of shoes. What’s your favourite restaurant in London? Levan in Peckham, closely followed by Kudu, also in Peckham. In the summer you can’t beat lunch outside at Rochelle canteen. Best pub or bar? The Camberwell Arms, my local. Nice local atmosphere, friendly staff and excellent food. Best cafe? Fowlds is my daily go to, a few minutes from my house. I also love a coffee and bowl of pasta at Italo in Vauxhall on a warm day. A great little hidden spot. Your favourite area of London? Has to be Camberwell. I’ve lived here for 10 years and it keeps getting better and better. What’s the first thing someone should do when visiting London? Have a coffee outside Bar Italia for excellent people watching. Soho is the heart of London. What’s your favourite thing to do in the city? Popping to different areas on my 1960s Vespa. Markets, galleries, coffee spots, parks... Favourite museum or gallery? I always find the White Cube on Bermondsey Street a relaxing place to be.

TOM O’DELL Film costumier and st ylist

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STYLE — the tastemakers