Oracle Time - Issue 60 - March 2020

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .60

The Timeless Design of the

REVERSO the Style Issue LUCA RUBINACCI | RUM AROUND THE WORLD | DESIGN HOTELS

ISSUE 60

5.95

£

ORACLE TIME #60

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Tom Pettit / Fraser Vincent Watch: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso jaeger-lecoultre.com

Back in 2014, Australian newscaster Karl Stefanovic revealed he had been wearing the same suit every day for a year and nobody watching had ever noticed. He did it to draw attention to the difference in the way he and his female co-anchor were treated. I do it because it beats thinking about what to wear every morning.

Needless to say I’m not particularly adventurous when it comes to my personal style. Still, I’m open to advice and if there’s one guy that knows what he’s talking about it’s Italian tailoring superstar and Instagram celebrity Luca Rubinacci. You can find his tips on how a man should dress – as well as an insight into his own style icons – on page 62.

When it comes to horological style icons however there are but a handful that really make the cut. Having kept up its Art Deco stylings for the better part of a century now, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso is most definitely one of that elite. If you want to know how the house is keeping the timeless design relevant in the modern era, turn to page 42 for our interview with JLC’s product design maestro Lionel Favre.

From the timeless to the seasonal, our style shoot this issue takes in the best of SS20, with all the pinks and prints that entails, starting on page 71. If those looks aren’t necessarily for you, you can find more digestible chunks of seasonal fare in the Style Edit, page 83.

If you’re more sneakerhead than fashionisto however, you might want to turn to our watch shoot on page 50, where we’re combining some punchy, colourful timepieces with some equally punchy footwear. With all the streetwear/watch collabs popping up we thought we’d get our proverbial foot in the door too.

Speaking of doors of the less proverbial kind, our travel section this issue takes a look at some of the coolest doors to the coolest design hotels in the world. Looking for quirky design flair? A treetop getaway? An art museum with suites? We have you covered on page 120.

Finally our resident alcoholic does a bit of travelling himself with a look at the rising spirit that is rum and its different executions around the world on page 108. As not everyone appreciates neat spirit, we’ve also created a handy little guide for rum cocktails based on flavour and, because everyone likes to impress at a party, how hard they are to make yourself.

In short, by the end of this issue you’ll know what to wear, how to wear it, where to wear it and what to be sipping on while you’re wearing it.

I might even need to get a second suit.

As always, enjoy the issue Sam Kessler, Editor

KEEP IN TOUCH: instagram.com/otmagazine | @oracle_time | facebook.com/oracleoftime | oracleoftime.com

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ORACLE TIME #60

CONTRIBUTORS What is your dream travel destination?

Russell Sheldrake

has been addicted to watches ever since he got his hands on his father’s 1970s Omega Seamaster 120. Now you can find him thinking, talking and writing about watches all over London.

Previously a staff writer at Gentleman’s Journal he is now a freelance writer covering mainly watches, fashion and grooming for The Jackal and The Week.

“I really struggle to put my finger on one person as a style icon for me, as I see my personal look taken from people who have inspired me in my life. That said, my old manager at Austin Reed could wear a cardigan under a suit better than anyone I’d ever met.”

Ken Kessler

Amira Arasteh

doesn’t eat to live; she lives to eat.

An avid foodie, she appreciates all good food, from marketstall traders to Michelin-starred restaurants. In the rare moments she’s not eating she’s covering fashion, beauty, tech and travel.

“I’m obsessed with every outfit Carrie Bradshaw wore in SATC – even the questionable ones. That surely gives her icon status, no?”

Chris Chasseaud

is a freelance brand manager and creative consultant in the menswear world. In his spare time he works on fine-tuning his fantasy football team.

“Paul Newman is my style icon.

Constantly classy on and off screen. He exuded a mix of timeless style with a humble charm, able to pull off tailoring and knitwear with chinos in equal measure. He features regularly on my Pinterest boards with one eye wanting to replicate some of his looks.”

WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE

EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk

Aidy Smith

Aidy Smith is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers. He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it.

You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @Sypped.

“Tom Daley... he’s got that slightly tweed, sophisticated look that he always seems to make look effortless. All I need now is his body and then I’m set!

SUB EDITOR

Alex Briand alexbriand4@gmail.com DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent DIRECTORS

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4615

is unimpressed by the 21st century and enjoys retro, if costly, boys’ toys, such as cameras, mechanical watches and fountain pens – of late, he is obsessed with Italian red wine. He has written four books on luxury hi-fi equipment and collects chronographs and film noir DVDs. “My style icon is Fernando Rey. One’s role models change with one’s age....”

George Parker george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4616

OT MAGAZINE is published monthly

by Opulent Media 020 7871 4615

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ORACLE TIME #60

CONTENTS

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OT M AG A ZINE / ISSUE 60

20 — AFICIONADO

42 — JAEGER-LECOULTRE

We reveal what’s on our radar and what should be on your shopping list this month

28 — NEWS

A round-up of the latest happenings in London, luxury living and, of course, the best in horology

36 — FACETIME

Watch collections of the rich and famous – this issue it’s Virgil Abloh

38 — THE ORACLE SPEAKS

Your crash course in the world of custom watches and modding of existing models

The history of the Art Deco-inspired, fully reversable, timeless style staple that is the JLC Reverso

“Every decade it has been reinterpreted.

In our archives, we have more than a hundred different Reverso dials, from the 30s to the present day.””

Jaeger LeCoultre — p42

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ORACLE TIME #60

CONTENTS

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50 — TRAINERS

Our favourite footwear forms the backdrop for our shoot

120

62 — LUCA RUBINACCI

The third-generation tailor and Instagram star on how to dress well

72 — STYLE SHOOT Our picks from the very best of SS20

83 — STYLE EDIT

Unmissable items from Off-White and Acne Studios 62

90 — WATCH REVIEWS

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Models from Rado and March LA.B under the spotlight

CULTURE

“Treehotel is made up of seven individually designed treehouses, each suspended somewhere in the canopy of the pines”

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96 100 103 120 133 136

Art Cinema Food & Drink Travel Books Auction

_______________________________________ ____________________________

__________

____________________________

_____________________________

Design Hotels — p120

_______________________

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139 — IN FOCUS

A closer look at Gruppo Gamma, Von Doren and Alsta

147 — IMPULSE BUY

Watches to snap up right now from Circula, Undone x Simple Union and Farr + Swit

150 — FROST

The jeweller’s loudest style statements

152 — THE OLD FART SPEAKS Ken Kessler on style over ‘substance’

FRONT — aficionado

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

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FRONT — aficionado

COMING TO LIGHT

This time last year, Girard-Perregaux released one of its most ambitious pieces ever, the three-bridged, be-tourbilloned, sapphire-cased Quasar. Now it has taken the formula one step further, extending the world’s second hardest material to the bridges themselves. Combined with a bright, sand-blasted rhodium mainplate and 360-degree views of the tourbillon, it more than lives up to its name: the Girard-Perregaux Quasar Light. $294,000, girard-perregaux.com

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FRONT — aficionado

GOING TOPLESS

It was only a matter of time before Aston Martin’s two-year-old Vantage received a convertible overhaul and now it’s here we don’t want it; we need it. The 503bhp Vantage Roadster can manage a solid sprint of 0-60mph in 3.7 seconds with a top speed of 190 with the roof up.

More importantly, look at it: it’s one of Aston’s most stunning recent models. £126,950, astonmartin.com

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FRONT — aficionado

SILENCE IS GOLDEN

A silent distillery is one that is no longer functioning, and making any whiskey from one is incredibly rare. When the distillery happens to be Old Midleton, arguably Ireland’s most influential, you get a truly special liquid: Midleton Very Rare Silent Distillery Chapter One. Distilled 45 years ago, this is the ultimate Irish whiskey, with rich, dark spices and an oak base, cut peat and grapefruit and plenty of red berries and toasted wood. £32,000, limited to 48 bottles across Europe, midletonveryrare.com

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FRONT — aficionado

HOME ON THE RANGE

Dubbed the ‘St. Andrews of Texas’, Wolf Point Ranch is among the world’s top 150 courses.

It’s been played on by fewer than 200 people and is entirely private. It also happens to be heading to auction – along with the 7,200 squarefoot main house, an artificial lake and a private airstrip large enough to accept a Boeing 737.

If Wolf Point Ranch doesn’t have everything you could want then you’re impossible.

It even has camels. $11,500,000 estimate, conciergeauctions.com

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FRONT — aficionado

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FRONT — aficionado

IN THE BANK

It may have once been Washington DC’s ‘Bank of Presidents’, but now the Corinthian columns and deep history of the Riggs National Bank have been transformed into the city’s coolest new hotel. Keeping plenty of the period features, think cutting-edge design and minibars in replica safes. Not that you’ll be raiding them much: Riggs Washington DC will also be home to Silver Lyan, the latest from god of mixology, Ryan Chetiyawardana.

Given his bar at London’s Mondrian, Dandelyan, was voted best in the world, you’d best book your stay early.

THE FAST TRACK

Pagani’s Huayra is coming to the end of its life-cycle but by god is it going out with a bang: the Huayra Imola. It’s ugly as sin, has no recorded lap times and it’s acceleration and top speed are still in the wind. But what it does have is a twinturbo V12 engine, a fully re-designed aerodynamics system (hence that whale fin) and 827bhp. Forget waiting for the specs, this is going to be fast. In fact the only thing quicker is how fast it’s sold out.

Rooms start at $329pn, riggsdc.com

£5,000,000, pagani.com

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FRONT — aficionado

SHOWBOATING

Mercedes-AMG and Cigarette Racing’s annual collabs are a Miami Boat Show tradition and this year the pair have gone all out with a 2,700 horsepower, six-engined beast of a boat.

Based on Cigarette Racing’s Tirranna, the black and yellow racer can hit 80mph on the water. It also comes paired with an equally OTT G-Wagen draped in the same livery, because why not? It’s only one extra engine on top of six.

The show boat is currently available for $3m. mercedes-amg.com

HIP TO BE SQUARE

Listening to music on your phone just doesn’t cut it.

It’s not your headphones’ fault, the sound’s just missing something, it’s missing a bit of its soul.

Enter the iFi hip-dac, a portable DAC/headphone amp. Just pop it between your device and headphones et voila: richer, more detailed and altogether more soulful music. £149, ifi-audio.com

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EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

We’re fast approaching that time of year once again where the watch world blows its collective load over the coming 12 months. Granted some brands have splintered off to do their own things but the twin stalwart watch shows are still very much around, so get ready for more releases than you can handle.

NEWS

WATCHES & WONDERS AND BASELWORLD 2020 CANCELLED We’re fast approaching that time of year once again where the watch world blows its collective load for the next 12 months. Expect big releases, full collections and apparent horological advancements aplenty – just not at the usual big two shows.

In case you’ve had your head under a welldisinfected rock, coronavirus is fast becoming a serious global issue. For some reason, the heads of both Baselworld and Watches & Wonders (what used to be called SIHH) have decided that cramming people into an air-conditioned conference hall is not a great idea no matter how many watches are on show, with the former being postponed to January, the latter outright cancelled.

And so here we are, without either show in the near future. Don’t lose sleep over it (the cancellations, not coronavirus; let that keep you up all you want) as you can still wait with baited breath for some impressive releases soon. And you know where to stay tuned for them when they land.

We mean us. Obviously. oracleoftime.com

THE ROLLS-ROYCE MEMBERS’ CLUB Owning a Rolls-Royce already gives you membership to a certain kind of club. Granted it’s not official but there’s still a cache to it. Now though the British marque is making things official – at least to new buyers – with ‘Whispers’. Offering anyone that purchases a shiny new roller access to an app filled with a curated selection of products and experiences, Whispers is designed to be the most exclusive digital club in the world. The selection on offer will change regularly to keep things fresh and as you can imagine, they’re going to be pretty damn highend. After all, money shouts, wealth Whispers. rolls-roycemotorcars.com

You can still wait with baited breath for some impressive releases soon 28

FRONT — world news

THE KTM TRACK SPECIAL Austria’s only car manufacturer (yes, they do have one) KTM has apparently been keeping its eye on the upcoming changes to GT racing. After a decade of silence, it’s coming out of the pits fast with what promises to be a serious challenger to Porsche and Audi: the 600bhp X-Bow GT2 Racer. With a basic weight of 1,000kg, this is going to be a mean sprinter – though it’s a little worrying that KTM doesn’t seem to want to show its face. Perhaps they were too busy honing the specs sheet to make it look pretty? ktm.com

THIS MONTH IN CARS

Watches may be on the horizon but cars are already here and with the Geneva Auto Show set to reveal some truly spectacular motors to the world, we’re taking a closer look at some of the newsworthy highlights in advance. Ready your engines.

THE GEMBALLA NAME RETURNS Uwe Gemballa was a legend in the tuning world, responsible for some incredible feats of speed and engineering. When he passed away ten years back, that could have been it for the family name. Not so.

Marc Philipp Gemballa will be launching his new marque at the Geneva Auto Show and it promises to be a serious one.

So far we only have a taster image to satiate our hunger, but you can be sure it’ll be a huge announcement when it finally comes. gemballa.com

LUMMA DESIGN’S ASTON MARTIN DBX You’re not missing something, Aston Martin’s SUV still hasn’t been released yet. That hasn’t stopped German tuner Lumma Design showcasing its own take on the soon-to-be Bentayga contender. Similar to Aston’s own higher-spec versions, Lumma’s kit will include a hefty amount of carbon in a more aggressive-looking body. It’ll also be wider, more robust and generally put more emphasis on the ‘sport’ in SUV. lumma-design.com

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FRONT — world news

FELINO UNTAMED The Felino CB7 was the darling of the 2014 Montreal Auto Show, a homegrown success story three years in the making.

Unfortunately we’ve not heard much from them since – until now. The CB7+ promises to be the ‘untamed’ version of Felino’s sports car, a lighter, leaner, meaner machine crown with a ridiculously large rear ring. On looks alone it’s a magnificent beast but the 700hp engine promises to roar, too. Just don’t expect to see many of them on the road; only ten are being built and we’re going to hazard a guess that most have already sold. felinocars.com

PORSCHE FINGERPRINTING Ever wondered if personalisation’s going a bit far?

We didn’t until today. Going one step above in the custom finishing department, Porsche is now offering to stick a huge graphic of your fingerprint to the hood of your car. Administered by their Exclusive Manufaktur department, new tech means they can print things not traditionally possible. They just scan your finger et voila, you’ve ruined the resale value of your 911. Still, at least it shows you’ve got your finger on the pulse. porsche.com

THE 3D-PRINTED HYPERCAR 3D printing is getting everywhere and now, thanks to California-based Czinger, that includes the automotive world in the form of the 21C. Aside from the 3D-printed components across the bodywork, Czinger had input from part of the team behind Koenigsegg which instils a bit of confidence – as does the spec sheet. With 1,250hp, a 0-62 sprint in under two seconds and a nearly 270mph top speed, this could well be a game-changer. It also has two-person in-line seating because with specs like that who wouldn’t want to terrify a co-pilot? czinger.com

PININFARINA BATTISTA ANNIVERSARIO

Czinger had input from Koenigsegg which instils a bit of confidence – as does the spec sheet 30

Is there a more iconic automotive designer than Pininfarina? No. No there is not. So as it approaches its 90th birthday, there’s some excitement around what it’ll be launching at the Geneva Auto Show – especially as we have a few tasty bits of info: 1) It’ll be called the Anniversario. Go Figure. 2) It’ll have 1,900 bhp and manage 0-186mph in less than 12 seconds.

Say goodbye to your organs. We don’t yet know what it looks like, but given Pininfarina’s heritage it’ll be breathtaking. pininfarina.it

FRONT — london news

HERNO COMES TO LONDON 31 Old Bond Street, W1S 4QH

AN INSIGHT INTO WARHOL

Until 12 March, Zebra One Gallery, 1 Perrin’s Court, NW3 1QX

After its notable absence from Mayfair, Italian outerwear specialist Herno has finally made its way to Old Bond Street – and in a big way. Set across four floors in a stunning Art Nouveau townhouse, it’s one of the classier boutiques on the most exclusive of shopping rows. The launch also happens to tie in to the brand’s 70th anniversary, so it’s about time you treated yourself to some classy yet technical necessities in pure Italian style.

THE LATEST FROM

LON DON

herno.it The latest need-to-know openings, tickets and developments in the capital

Few can claim to have really known the king of pop art, but one of those is William John Kennedy, the man behind the latest exhibition at Hampstead’s Zebra One Gallery. Andy Warhol: Full Circle will showcase Kennedy’s remarkable photos and films documenting the very start of the movement at one of art’s most exciting periods. Consider it a portrait of among the most important artists to have ever lived. zebraonegallery.com

JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER: A RETROSPECTIVE JCB is one of the biggest, most important characters in the watch world, one who has helped shaped pretty much the entire industry.

Whatever you think about the current state of things, his impact cannot be denied, most recently explored through Phillips Perpetual. Showcasing the giant’s personal collection, London sees the end of a globe-trotting show.

Certainly food for thought for any serious collector. phillips.com

A NEW APPROACH TO LONDON HOSPITALITY

Page8, 8 St. Martins Lane, WC2N 4JH

Set just metres from the plaque marking the central point of London, Page8 is the London arm of the hotel that began as Hong Kong’s Page148. The hotel itself isn’t necessarily the selling point, though the upmarket building on 8 St Martins Lane (hence the name) is certainly a cool, contemporary number. This is however the place to stay if you want to experience the untapped gems of London life; through the hotel’s online series Page Common* guests are guided through the secret side of the capital’s dining, drinking and cultural scenes.

This isn’t a place you stay to keep to yourself, but a luxurious launch pad to experience the best London has to offer. pagehotels.com

GEORGE DOG COMMITTEE 87-88 Mount St, W1K 2SR

They may have appalling manners and never stick to the dress code, but Mount Street’s George Club is welcoming a new breed of clientele. Mayfair members will be able to treat canine companions to a series of events organised by the likes of Nikki Tibbles and model David Gandy, as well as plenty of fantastic club food from Rockster. georgeclub.com

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FRONT — introducing

NEWS

INTRO DUCING In the build-up to the biggest weeks of the watch world, most brands are keeping their shiny new toys under wraps; that does mean however that we have some lovely twists on existing pieces and a show-stopping re-issue to help things along

IN DETAIL

41mm platinum case water resistance to 30m • Breguet 581 calibre automatic movement with tourbillon and 80-hour power reserve • €159,900 (EUR), exclusively available at Breguet boutiques breuget.com •

BREGUET

Classique 5367 Ultra-Thin Automatic Tourbillon

One of the world’s slimmest tourbillons and among Breguet’s most traditional pieces, the Ultra-Thin (or extra-plat if we’re coming over all Français) has been given a makeover, switching out the classical white enamel for a stunning midnight blue against a platinum case.

It’s a small change but a great-looking one.

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FRONT — introducing

BREITLING

765 AVI 1953 Re-Edition Watch

Following its finest release of last year, Breitling has raided its archives once again and this time pulled out the superlative ‘Co-Pilot’, aka the 765 AVI, the Navitimer’s more rugged, effortlessly charming sibling. It does come in a pair of precious-metal limited editions, but in our opinion it’s all about that steel.

IN DETAIL

41mm stainless steel case water resistant to 30m • Breitling B09 calibre manual-winding movement with 70-hour power reserve • £6,520, limited to 1953 pieces • breitling.com •

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FRONT — introducing

LAURENT FERRIER

Galet Annual Calendar School Piece Vintage Watch

Take the design that won best men’s complication back at the GPHG awards 2018, run it through a sepia filter and you get Laurent Ferrier’s take on 50s retro.

A case of minimalism done right, it has all the info you need to know, day, date and month at a glance, while remaining a fantasticlooking watch in a new Champagne dial.

IN DETAIL • 40mm

stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • LF126.01 calibre manualwinding annual calendar movement with 80-hour power reserve • CHF 50,000, limited to five pieces laurentferrier.ch

G U E S S THE WATCH

So, did you manage to guess last issue’s blacked-out timepiece? You know, the modern interpretation of the first pilot’s watch? It was of course the Santos de Cartier, all £8,150 of bi-colour cool. Though if you guessed the colour I feel like you’re probably cheating.

Either way, on to the next. We won’t even give you a hint here, though if you’re a Steve McQueen fan you won’t need one. Oops.

What is the watch?

Check back next issue for the answer.

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what is the

WATCH

?

FRONT — facetime

NO.

60

FA C E T I M E The watch collections of the rich and famous revealed

Virgil Abloh The designer

If you’ve not heard of Virgil Abloh... honestly, where have you been? The founder of Off-White and creative director at Louis Vuitton is one of the driving forces of contemporary fashion. He also happens to be a DJ, entrepreneur and artist – a man of many talents if ever there was one. Indeed, it’s hard to find something he’s not lent his own style credentials to, including watches.

If you’ve been keeping your eyes peeled on Instagram, or happen to be a fan of a certain Toronoto-born artist, you might have seen Drake’s latest blinged-out Patek Philippe. The Nautilus stands out draped as it is in emeralds across the bracelet, dial and bezel, with the visible metal in black DLC. As you might have guessed, it was designed by Virgil Abloh.

It’s not the first time the designer has turned his hand to watches either. While Life is Good might be the first time an Abloh-led timepiece has had its own hype song (“Virgil got that Patek on my wrist goin’ nuts”), Drake’s is an emerald-clad version of Abloh’s own blacked-out Nautilus. While nobody can say for sure where the designer got his custom pieces made, the general consensus is that MAD Paris is responsible.

Strangely enough though, Abloh’s own label, Off-White is one of the few streetwear giants yet to hop into the wonderful world of watch collabs. Word on the grapevine though is that it’s not for want of trying; they just need the right partner, so keep an eye on this space.

Otherwise, Abloh’s stint at Louis Vuitton has seen some glorious additions to the brand’s horological offerings, though whether these were in the works before the new creative director took over, who’s to say? Either way we can’t imagine them going out into the world without his stamp of approval.

Whether his unique twists on one of the most iconic timepieces ever constructed are a passing phase or the tip of the iceberg is yet to be seen, but if Abloh carries on as he has he may well be the breath of fresh, cool a ir the watch world needs. Or a pariah for Patek purists, either one.

Drake’s one-of-a-kind edition of Abloh’s blacked-out Nautilus (left)

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FRONT — ask the oracle

THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained

[In Defence of Custom Watches]

Style is subjective. It’s why some guys prefer the sleek elegance of an ultra-thin Altiplano or Breguet Classique and others opt for the uber-macho dimensions of a Big Bang or Royal Oak. To each their own. Except of course that you’re still at the design whims of the watchmakers themselves.

That’s not such a bad thing; we wouldn’t be talking about watches this much if the guys behind them weren’t good at what they do. Yet as the rise of custom watches shows, there’s a market for the unique. Just look at Virgil Abloh’s latest piece for Drake, a custom-made, blackedout, emerald-encrusted Patek Philippe Nautilus.

To the purists out there, it’s a travesty, a bastardisation of what makes Patek… well, Patek. There’s also a subset of equally fervent collectors that adore it. It’s a stark division for sure and one that to me seems a bit one-sided.

I’m not about to say that I particularly share Drake’s tastes, but by god I’ll defend his right to have them – and have a watch that matches them.

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Take Rolex for example. Rolex is Rolex. We love them; collectors love them, they’re the most important watch brand in the world. Yet they’re also one of the least adventurous out there. It’s understandable; they want to protect their image. But it’s also understandable that there are a host of watch customisers offering shiny new interpretations of Rolex classics.

Takes Artisans de Genève, whose skeletonised Daytonas are racing-performance cool pushed to a fitting extreme, or Titan Black, which has cut its teeth blacking out every Rolex model you care to name. Both offer something new, something collectors can’t find from the brand themselves. Should they be reviled as creative parasites leading watch lovers astray? Hell no, they have some great pieces.

Some brands are of course cottoning on. Just look at what Bamford Watch Department has been doing as the official watchmaker of TAG Heuer, Zenith, Bulgari and Girard-Perregaux. Its website makes filtering through the options feel endless. To all intents and purposes, it is.

There’s something a little less cool about it being all ‘official’ yet it at least means you get to keep the original warranty.

In fact, most watch customisers give you a great warranty. That’s because they don’t actually alter the mechanics of the watch. This isn’t the car world where restomods and upgrade kits are a given for the top end; it’s the equivalent of getting your own racing livery, and when has that ever been a bad thing?

Abloh’s blacked-out Nauti is the same watch underneath the DLC and emeralds as the one that left the factory. It’s why I find it hard to get behind the cultish outrage at these kinds of custom designs. It would make sense if it knocked off accuracy or weakened the depth resistance. It doesn’t. Instead, it’s just designers capitalising on a very obvious hole in the market.

Like I said, style is subjective and if a collector can’t find what they’re after, let them go out and make it themselves. If brands want to be overprotective about their pieces, there’s an easy solution: offer more variety.

And if you’re not sure if a custom watch is for you, try these on for size. Just remember: black is always in style.

FRONT — ask the oracle

[BAMFORD WATCH DEPARTMENT X DANIEL ARSHAM ‘ZEN GARDEN’ BULGARI SOLOTEMPO, £13,000]

Wristwear just not leaving you feeling zen enough?

Try out this number from American artist Daniel Arsham, which features the swirling lines of a Buddhist garden across the dial. Melting halfway into nothingness, the dial’s a stark contrast to the black, military-grade titanium coating of Bulgari’s ultra-modern Octo Solotempo model. bamfordwatchdepartment.com

Melting halfway into nothingness, the dial’s a stark contrast to the black, military-grade titanium coating

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[MAD PARIS ROLEX DAYTONA RAINBOW, £70,000]

The current king of the custom game, MAD Paris is generally accepted to be behind Drake’s new Patek and Abloh’s own blacked-out version. Here is something almost as spectacular, combining Rolex’s most iconic model with its own signature DLC coating and a rainbowset bezel. It’s in imitation of the rainbow bezels that Rolex itself offers on occasion, but that here stands out all the more against the black case, bracelet and dial. It lets the colourful stones do the talking and once they do, they just will not shut up. mad-paris.com

2

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FRONT — ask the oracle

[ARTISANS DE GENÈVE LA BARICHELLO ROLEX DAYTONA, CHF 54,711]

A skeletonised Daytona is painfully cool; one that’s built in collaboration with a Formula 1 legend? That’s Artisans de Genéve’s La Barichello. This is one of the rare times when even the movement has been reworked, and it shows. Edgier, more modern, this is the iconic racing watch turned into a racing machine, albeit one that still tells the time. artisansdegeneve.com One of these catch your eye? Be warned, small volumes being what they are don’t count on them still being around by the time you’re reading this. Consider them inspiration though; you can always ask for exactly the same thing again. No points for originality there but the heart wants what the heart wants.

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[TITAN BLACK AIR KING HOMAGE, $13,000]

You can kind of guess what finish Titan Black specialises in and this take on one of Rolex’s unfairly side-lined models makes for a great canvas. The black dial is impeccably cool, with yellow and green detailing and bold, aviation-inspired numerals at 3, 6 and 9. The Homage is a well-deserve insight into what makes the Air King great. titanblack.co.uk

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FRONT — jaeger-lecoultre

BRILLIANT CORNERS EXPLORING THE REVERSO AS A STYLE ICON WITH THE MAN RESPONSIBLE FOR ITS IMAGE, JAEGER-LECOULTRE’S PRODUCT DESIGN DIRECTOR, LIONEL FAVRE WORDS:

RUSSELL SHELDRAKE

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FRONT — jaeger-lecoultre

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FRONT — jaeger-lecoultre

Originally designed for British polo players in India in the 1930s, the Reverso has strong Art Deco influences, allowing it to be worn both on the field and out to high-society events

“The important thing is to evolve the design while respecting the spirit and the initial style of this piece” 44

The worlds of watches and fashion are obsessed with time. How long will a trend last for? How many years has this brand been running? How long is the waitlist for the latest model? But, when you have a design that has lasted nearly 90 years, the pressures of time start to ease a little bit.

More and more some of the most popular and longlasting styles are those that have been born out of a functional necessity. As the classic Levi jeans came from the harsh realities of America in the 1800s, so the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso came from the roughand-ready, yet still elegant, lifestyles of the polo-playing British Army officers in India. They were in need of a timepiece that could stand up to the brutality of their sport but also not look out of place at the grand parties and balls of the 1930s.

With the Art Deco movement in full swing at this point there was only really one way that this new, tough timer could also be elegant enough for high society. With its sharp rectangular case that draws directly from the Golden Ratio for its proportions and the fine detail in the three gadroons at 6 and 12 delivering a look that is unique yet instantly familiar.

To get a better understanding of this icon of wrist wear we spoke with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Product Design Director, and current custodian of the Reverso’s image, Lionel Favre. When it comes to presenting a new iteration of the Reverso to the market there is 90 years of history weighing on Favre’s shoulders, but also 90 years of design inspiration for him to draw from.

“It is a great responsibility to work on the brand’s icon,” he says. “But in every era the designers who came before me have been creative, every decade it has been redesigned and reinterpreted. In our archives, we have more than a hundred different Reverso dials, from the 30s to the present day.” And that is part of what makes the Reverso’s visual identity so strong; it has changed so much over the years yet the core elements have stayed the same, with reference points dating back to before World War Two. It’s not just the looks of the Reverso that have evolved over the years, but also how it’s used and seen by the watch community. As Favre tells us: “Almost 90 years ago the Reverso was a sports watch designed for polo players; today it is considered a dress watch. But, the important thing is to evolve the design while respecting the spirit and the initial style of this piece.”

Keeping it rooted in Art Deco could be seen as the key to the watch’s success; it’s a consistent reference point to go back to and a design language so strong that it becomes unmistakable.

“Our new Reverso Tribute models are very contemporary” says Favre. “The case is larger, the dial is up-to-date with its appliques, the hands are different (dauphines), as is the material of the dial. Adding all of these small details together allows today’s Reverso Tribute to reinvent itself.”

© Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent

FRONT — jaeger-lecoultre

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FRONT — jaeger-lecoultre

You simply flip that rectangular case and the watch is reinvented, switching from day to night, work to play, serious to frivolous And it’s that spirit of reinvention that keeps bringing people back to the Reverso, in a more practical sense as well as in its design language. You simply flip that rectangular case and the watch is reinvented, switching from day to night, work to play, serious to frivolous – it’s a work/life balance embodied in a watch.

Just as we now have an entire spectrum of jeans to choose from, with skinny, boot-cut, distressed and even jeggings that you wouldn’t dare associate with cattle-ranching (or anyone with good dress sense), there are Reversos now that could be seen as having departed from the original purpose of the watch meant to be tough enough for a chukka or two.

Now Jaeger-LeCoultre uses this flagship timepiece to display its best work, from intricate dial designs to fantastical tourbillons and precious metals set with stones. While you wouldn’t take these anywhere near a polo field, the spirit of the Reverso is still in them, a watch that has changed beyond its original design brief far more than it should have yet is still every inch as stylish as it ever was.

New Reverso models incorporate impressive dials and tourbillons into its classic design language

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STYLE — photoshoot

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STYLE — photoshoot

WORLD CHAMPIONS There are tourists, and then there are travellers. For those whose interests are more often global than local, the humble world timer provides.

Here are our pick of the best PHOTOGRAPHY: TOM PETTIT / FRASER VINCENT

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BREITLING SUPEROCEAN 42mm stainless steel case with 500m water resistance Breitling 17 calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve £3,140, www. breitling.com

TAG HEUER AQUARACER 43mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance Quartz movement £1,450, www. tagheuer.com

SEVENFRIDAY M3/04 PINKY 47.6mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance Miyota 8215 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve CHF 1,750.00, www. sevenfriday.com

DOXA SUB 300T 42.5mm stainless steel case with 1,200m water resistance ETA 2824-2 calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve £1,780, doxawatches. com

BELL & ROSS V2-92 MILITARY GREEN 41mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance BR-CAL.302 calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve £2,350, www. bellross.com

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YEMA SUPERMAN BRONZE 39mm bronze case with 300m water resistance MBP1000 calibre automatic movement with 45-hour power reserve Euro 1,399, eu.yema. com

HERMES SLIM D’HERMES 39.5mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance Manufacture Hermes H1950 automatic movement with 42hour power reserve £5,355, www. hermes.com

SEIKO 5 SPORTS SENSE STYLE 42.5mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance Calibre 4R36 automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve £280, www. seikowatches.com

RADO CAPTAIN COOK AUTOMATIC 42mm bronze case with 300m water resistance Automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve £2,415, www.rado. com

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FRONT — luca rubinacci

WE TALK TO INSTAGRAM STAR AND MASTER TAILOR LUCA RUBINACCI ABOUT HERITAGE, QUALITY AND PERSONAL STYLE

A SENSE OF STYLE WORDS:

SAM KESSLER

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© Abraham Engelmark

FRONT — luca rubinacci

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FRONT — luca rubinacci

“We as tailors need to adapt to the clients’ needs... without losing our DNA”

Rubinacci was founded in 1932 by Gennaro Rubinacci, Luca’s grandfather

Rubinacci. It’s a name synonymous with style, with consummate Italian flair and craftsmanship. It’s the definition of Neopolitan tailoring and, under the leadership of third-generation tailor Luca Rubinacci, has become a truly iconic house, with outposts across the world and some seriously discerning clients.

Despite being a modern style icon however, Rubinacci as a brand has its roots far further back than the genesis of Instagram, all the way back to 1932 and Luca’s grandfather. “He was the pioneer of Neopolitan tailoring,” explains Luca. “After him was my father, who established the house of Rubinacci across the world, always looking for new clients wherever he visited.”

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With all that heritage behind the name, it would have been understandable for Luca to train in his home city, to learn from the generations before him. But no. Instead, for his training he headed to our very own Savile Row. But why?

“We were already the best at what we did in Naples,” says Luca of Rubinacci at the time. “In order to learn something different I needed to travel – and English tailoring is a lot different to what we have.”

He’s not kidding. There’s a good reason Italian suits are well known for lightweight materials and construction while we’re more associated with structure and tweed. The two are, in tailoring terms, polar opposites. But it does hark back to the first generation of Rubinacci tailor.

“When my grandfather first opened he didn’t call his house Rubinacci; he called it London House,” explains Luca. “We’ve always had a family love for British tailoring so even though it was a new thing, me learning on Savile Row, it made sense.”

However, every good brand has to change with the times and now that Luca is at the head of his father’s and grandfather’s business, he’s bringing a fresh approach to heritage Italian tailoring. The key? Using what he learned during his apprenticeship.

“Clients went to Rubinacci before for lightweight, deconstructed suits; they went to English tailors for business. ‘Why should they have to do that?’ I thought.

‘I can do everything!’ We as tailors need to adapt to the clients’ needs, and to what I’ve been bringing to the house these past 20 years, without losing our DNA.” It’s that thinking that inspired Luca to start Rubinacci’s ready to wear collection back in 2013, the desire to offer clients a versatile wardrobe of staples, built with the same quality as the bespoke line. It’s a more accessible way into the brand of course, but designed specifically for the kind of buyers that come from the digital world.

© WWW.KIMLANGSTUDIO.COM

FRONT — luca rubinacci

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FRONT — luca rubinacci

Luca incorporates not only classic, refined Neapolitan heritage, but also cues from his time on Savile Row

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© WWW.KIMLANGSTUDIO.COM

FRONT — luca rubinacci

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FRONT — luca rubinacci

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FRONT — luca rubinacci

“My style is always moving, always changing, always finding something new. You cannot make the best ice cream if you only like vanilla”

“In the past we’ve always worked from word of mouth; we think our clients should invite their friends to our house, not our own publicity. But then I became a bit recognised on Instagram…”

That’s an understatement. Over the past few years, Luca Rubinacci has become one of the true style icons of Instagram, with well over 200k followers, and a regular in best-dressed roundups from various fashion weeks around the world. Plenty of would-be fashionistos look up to him, and being able to buy some of what he wears is a pretty logical step. Indeed, while he may have a well-deserved reputation as both tailor and designer, but it’s his personal style that gets tongues wagging.

“My style is always moving, always changing, always finding something new. Why? You cannot make the best ice cream if you only like vanilla. You need to like all the flavours. It’s the same with style, it’s only by trying things out myself, changing what I’m wearing, that I can understand what clients want.”

It’s a different take to most designers. Generally we buy into a certain style, into a designer’s vision. They in turn are designing for themselves. Luca on the other hand tries everything himself so that he can learn to adapt to the needs of Rubinacci buyers and, more broadly, any guy looking for some great tailoring.

However if you’re looking to imitate Luca, you might have another think coming.

“What works for me might not work for you. It’s what I tell all my clients. People come into the store and ask ‘what’s new? What’s on-trend? What’s in fashion right now?’ This is not the right approach.

Maybe the trendy things are not your things. If you’re coming to Rubinacci you’re coming for something that’s for life, something that’ll always work. If you want something more individual, you go bespoke.”

But where exactly does Luca get his inspiration?

While he’s certainly a regular at fashion shows, he’s not the kind of guy one can imagine trying to incorporate flashes of cutting-edge haute couture into his wardrobe. Instead his inspiration is a little bit more down to earth.

“I take little bits from people I know, taking inspiration from many icons and piecing them together into my own collage. My father in the 70s wearing elephant cut trousers; the extravagant use of pattern

by Nick Foulkes; the rock and roll look of [The Rake founder] Wei Koh. I take inspiration from the people around me, modern, stylish men. We don’t live in black and white.”

If you’re reading all this and still puzzling out what your personal sense of style is – or what you’d like it to be, Luca has one piece of sage advice to pass on: “Use good sense. Don’t think you can be extravagant just by wearing a yellow jacket, it’s not true. Try little things and grow step by step, in style as in life.” marianorubinacci.net

© Abraham Engelmark

Below: Luca in his Naples atelier on Via Chaia

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STYLE — photoshoot

PLAIN SHANTUNG SUIT IN LILAC, Richard James, £1,195 richard-james.com LILAC HONEYCOMB POLO SHIRT, Richard James, £495 richard-james.com EDWARD BROWN SUEDE LOAFERS, Harry’s of London, £395 harrysoflondon.com

final form Our favourite looks from this season

Styling: CHRIS CHASSEAUD

Photography: FRASER VINCENT

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Model: CAMERON ROBERTS

STYLE — photoshoot

COTTON CASHMERE BLEND CAMP COLLAR SHIRT, Turnbull & Asser, £325 turnbullandasser.co.uk PLAIN SHANTUNG TROUSERS IN IVORY (PART OF A SUIT), Richard James, £1,195 richard-james.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

ORANGE LINEN SUIT, Gieves & Hawkes, £995 gievesandhawkes.com DENIM SHORT SLEEVED SHIRT, APC, £155 apc.fr KENSINGTON II WOVEN LOAFERS, Crockett & Jones, £455 crockettandjones.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

PINK LUX SELF STRIPE SHIRT, Richard James, £175 richard-james.com BEIGE CHECKED LINEN SUIT, Brooks Brothers, £1090 brooksbrothers.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

MEIGLE BONDED COTTON AND SUEDE TRENCH COAT, Mackintosh, £795 mackintosh.com LE POUCH FUNNEL TOP, Les Basics, £165 lesbasics.net 2 PLEATS BERMUDA SHORTS, Maison Kitsuné, £215 maisonkitsune.fr DANVERS WHITE COTTON LISLE SOCKS, Pantherella, £13 pantherella.com ALTON TRUFFLE SUEDE SNEAKERS, C.QP, £325 c-qp.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

SOLANA GIANTO SHIRT, Barena, £210 barenavenezia.com COTTON TWILL CARGO PANTS, Deveaux, £460 deveauxnewyork.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

JOSEPH FLORAL PRINT SHIRT, APC, £155 apc.fr LE TRACK SHORTS, Les Basics, £95 lesbasics.net DANVERS WHITE COTTON LISLE SOCKS, Pantherella, £13 pantherella.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

PRINCE OF ARGYLE CHECK COAT, Pringle of Scotland, £1,095 pringlescotland.com WHITE LINEN SHIRT, Jaeger, £69 jager.co.uk 502™ TAPER JEANS, Levi’s, £85 levi.com RACQUET SUEDE TRAINERS, C.QP, £255 c-qp.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

FENTON SUEDE MOTO JACKET, Mackage, £790 mackage.com WHITE LINEN SHIRT, Jaeger, £69 jager.co.uk 502™ TAPER JEANS, Levi’s, £85 levi.com RACQUET SUEDE TRAINERS, C.QP £255 c-qp.com

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G9 CHORD JACKET, Baracuta, £325 baracuta.com CLASSIC WHITE COTTON T-SHIRT, Gieves & Hawkes, £75 gievesandhawkes.com FUCHSIA SLIM CHINOS, Brooks Brothers, £140 brooksbrothers.com

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STYLE — must-haves

the style edit edit: CHRIS CHASSEAUD

SAY GOODBYE TO GREY, AND AU REVOIR TO RAIN – WINTER IS DONE, AND IT’S TIME TO STOCK UP ON VIBRANT SUMMER ESSENTIALS FOR 2020

BOLTZER BENSON M SNEAKERS, ACNE STUDIOS,

> Blending hiking and trail running with a fashion twist, Acne’s hybrid-style sneakers are bang-on the money to wear with loose-fitting trousers or even your old denim to elevate your old faithful look. The chunky sole wouldn’t look out of place climbing Kathmandu, while the combo of faux suede and mesh in geometric shapes keeps it grounded on the streets of Paris and London. £410 ACNESTUDIOS.COM

GEOMETRIC PRINT CAMP COLLAR SHIRT, FRESCOBOL CARIOCA,

> Prints are another trend that you’ll see more of this Spring/Summer, but more of the geometric and graphic sort rather than dainty florals. Inspired by the patterns of Brazilian artist Lygia Clark, Frescobol Carioca has introduced oversized prints that enhance its relaxed shirts that can be worn in the city and on the beach. Pair with matching shorts for some serious pop art attitude. £195 AT MATCHESFASHION.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

BARGA STRIPED COTTONBLEND TROUSERS, ANN DEMEULEMEESTER,

> Ticking two trend boxes with white and stripes for SS20 these tailored double-pleated trousers are made from a slubbed cotton/linen blend with turn-up cuffs. Execute an all-white look with a white shirt and jacket combo. Want to change it up? Add a navy camp collar shirt for a timeless balance. £595 AT MATCHESFASHION.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

PLEATED WIDE LEG TROUSERS, EDWARD CRUTCHLEY,

> These luxurious trousers epitomise the continuing trend of wider-legged trousers pushing their way through to the mainstream, where skinny jeans still seem to be ruling the roost among the masses.

However, mid-high rise and smart pleating giving an accentuated shape, leading toward an elegant drape from leg to ankle.

They are future-proof. Add an oversized shirt with a camp collar for the ideal all-occasion summer look. ÂŁ530 AT MATCHESFASHION.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

LUXURY COTTON SILK BLEND T-SHIRT, ETON, > Eton releases its first ever t-shirt with this luxury offering in a cotton and silk blend. With a contemporary silhouette, the t-shirt features a low neckline with a boxy fit that can worn dressed up with your favourite suit or dressed down with your favourite jeans. Available in white, black, sand and green there are options to complement any outfit. £110 ETONSHIRTS.COM

‘THE ORIGINAL’ SHORTS, MR MARVIS,

> The shorts of choice for daredevils on a break, we’re opting for The Flamingos version of Mr Marvis’ Original Shorts to coordinate with all the other pink clothing we’ll be picking up this season. That said, if you want to be little less edgy, you can opt for The Milkshakes. Paire with your latest camp collar shirt or oversized t-shirt and away you go. €79 MRMARVIS.COM

KONTUUR II SUEDE TRAINERS, ADIDAS X CRAIG GREEN,

> Adidas is just slaying it when it comes to its current sneaker offering and it’s difficult to choose from a plethora of great styles. However, this collaboration with designer Craig Green is 2020 in a nutshell. Made exclusively for the designer’s SS20 runway show and now available to buy, get them while you can as we’re sure they’ll sell faster than a Mr Whippy in a heatwave. £200 AT MATCHESFASHION.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

LOOSE FIT JEANS, ACNE,

> Acne has been synonymous with stylish denim for years and with current trends going toward a wider leg, this Loose Fit jean is on point. With a contemporary shape, the drape is suited to a 90s aesthetic that champions a nonchalant, grungy feel.

There’s a white denim version if you want to go with the non-colour-led trend that will be hitting SS20. £250 ACNESTUDIOS.COM

DIAGONAL-PRINT OVERSIZED DENIM SHIRT, OFF-WHITE

> Off-White has amped up the style stakes for the humble denim shirt with embroidered block stripes on the arms and large chest pockets on this workwearstyled number. Oversized to work well as a layering piece, throw it over your favourite hoodie or loose over a white t-shirt and channel grunge attitude with some contemporary streetwear sensibility. £590 AT MATCHESFASHION.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

HURRICANE XLT2 SANDALS, TEVA,

> Sandals are becoming quite the fashion staple, regularly appearing on catwalks everywhere. You can hit two birds with one stone by getting a specialist sandal from Teva who have been doing this sort of thing for years, making sturdy sandals for outdoor activities that now pass as fashion acceptable. We’ll leave it up to you whether to wear them with socks. £59.99 AT THE OUTSIDERS STORE OUTSIDERSSTORE.COM

VIRGIN WOOL PLEATED TROUSERS, MAISON KITSUNÉ,

> You can never go wrong with a pair of navy trousers and this unisex option is perfect within the wider legged trend.

Offering a relaxed and roomy drape they can fit a streetwear look with jumpers and sneakers, although made with a sharper, tailoring nod with pleats and a creased leg. €350 MAISONKITSUNE.COM

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© Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 42mm bronze case with 300m water resistance • C07.611 calibre automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • Blue dial with gold, lume-coated indexes • £2,415, rado.com

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FRONT — watch reviews

RADO Captain Cook

When Rado re-launched the Captain Cook back in 2017, it was a masterstroke. It popped out just at the beginning of the now-inundated craze for retro designs and from a brand that nobody would have expected. At the time ceramic futurism was more Rado’s deal, not vintage, yet it worked well enough that we all went a little crazy for it.

Flash forwards to late last year and we have this, the more modern update of the watch, the Captain Cook Automatic.

Rather than the authentic recreation of the Hyperchrome version, which was almost inch-pefect, the Captain Cook of now lets contemporary watch design get a foot in the door.

First off that means a larger case. After all, even I think 37mm is a little diminutive for a diving watch, no matter how retro the inspirations. It’s also a bit smaller than the huge 45mm version that was brought out as a counterpoint to that first, tiny timepiece. At 42mm it’s nicely in-between.

Want to add a dash of steampunk charm? Go bronze, and the Captain Cook is an ideal candidate

Second is the material. Rado may have been an early raider of its own archives, but it’s not been particularly quick to embrace the material that all but goes hand in hand, bronze.

Want to add a dash of steampunk charm? Go bronze, and the Captain Cook is an ideal candidate. Paired with a blue sunray dial and ceramic bezel, the bronze colouring peeks out in the lugs. The proportions just… work.

The leather strap is pretty plain which on some watches would feel a bit devoid of character. Here it just adds to the nautical charm of the watch. Granted I’d have liked something a little more interesting – or at least diving-oriented – but it certainly looks the part, and keeps it a little lighter than a bracelet would.

Otherwise, the Captain Cook has everything a diving watch requires. I didn’t exactly get to test it in the depths, but it’s apparently water resistant to 300mm which with a screwdown crown and solid caseback (complete with the signature triple seahorse engraving) I don’t doubt it. I can say for sure that the dial is eminently readable in low light – it’s hard to miss in fact – and the bezel is pleasingly solid.

The C07.611 calibre automatic movement inside has an impressive 80-hour power reserve, more than enough for diving purposes and plenty for everyday wear. It’s the same movement as has been in the Captain Cook from the start and isn’t one to be underestimated.

In short, while this new Captain Cook Automatic isn’t cutting edge or revolutionary. It does however bring together all the elements that have made the Rado’s retro flagship such a darling among collectors, the quintessential modern iteration of the now-legendary 1960s original. £2,415, rado.com

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© Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 36mm stainless steel case water resistant to 100m • Miyota 9015 calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • Burgundy enamel dial with gold indexes and custom date • €1,245, march-lab.com

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FRONT — watch reviews

MARCH LA.B AM69 Automatics

You expect a little bit of savoir faire from the French. A little bit of, not necessarily style over substance, but certainly a position at the forefront. It’s what you find in every Parisian couturier and reflected nicely in March LA. B. That’s not a typo by the way; the LA.B in the name stands for Los Angeles and Biarritz, the two spiritual homes of the brand, and should go some way to explaining what it’s all about. On the one hand, contemporary style, on the other, vintage influences.

Out of all their watches, I’d say that none is more emblematic of that dichotomy than the AM69. Sure watches like the Agenda have their racing style and the AM2 is pure 70s nostalgia, but this piece in particular is a new twist on the whole retro zeitgeist.

First off, it’s size. At 36mm it’s a proper vintage size, one that a fair few guys might find a little bit too small at first.

I can see why; even on mine it looks dainty. However it wears far, far bigger. That’s because the lugs are longer than you expect. It’s a nice compromise as far as I’m concerned, just don’t give it a go if you’re particularly into your macho timepieces.

As for the look of the thing, it’s not hard to see that March LA.B has lavished its creative attentions on the AM69.

Between elongated lugs and round bezel there’s another geometric layer that peeks out around the sides of the watch, giving it unusual facets. The dial is beautifully pared-back, in this case in a lovely burgundy colour that pairs nicely with the gold indexes. Even the date window is custom to March LA.B, all to the good.

In fact, there’s only one place I think perhaps the design goes a little too far and that’s the crown. I don’t mind an asymmetrical crown at all, I generally think they look great; here too. It’s just that here the crown has found its way partially into the lug. I found it pretty awkward to use, even off the wrist as, despite the detailed grip, it was hard to get a hold of.

Whether it’s worth the minor annoyance for the look of the thing I’ll leave up to you. For me it was, but then this is a time and date-only watch which I don’t tend to fiddle with as a rule. At least it gives the AM69 a nice, unique twist

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where most retro-inspired designs are anything but inspired.

Inside is a simple Miyota 9015 calibre automatic movement with a 42h power reserve, nothing spectacular but an automatic movement nonetheless. You can even see it through the caseback which, as is a little March LA.B trademark, is in green. The movement’s not much to look at, so it works pretty well.

The benefit the movement does have though is lowering the price bracket. Despite its cool, thoughtful design and automatic nature, the AM69 clocks in at €1,245 – just under £1,000. If you’re looking for something out of the ordinary but still bang on-trend in the watch world, that’s well worth giving a try. €1,245, march-lab.com

This piece in particular is a new twist on the whole retro zeitgeist

CULTURE — opener

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CULTURE

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100 MOVIE WATCH ..... 103 FOOD & DRINK 120 TRAVEL ..... 136 AUCTION

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© Lucy Dawkins © Tate

CULTURE — art news

Kusama’s Infinity Mirrored Room and Chandelier of Grief (right) form the centrepiece of a year-long retrospective of the artist

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CULTURE — art news

In case the words on this page didn’t let on enough, the Tate Modern has just turned 20. Let that sink in a bit.

Despite its name, it feels like the Tate has been around forever, an institution of epic proportions in London’s dynamic artistic landscape. It’s been home to the most exciting artists in the contemporary scene, be they new and current or founding fathers.

So as the internationally acclaimed gallery hits a milestone year, a bottle of fizz and a birthday cake’s just not going to cut it. Instead, for its anniversary, the Tate Modern is putting on a truly dazzling exhibition that should have every art lover in London (and plenty from abroad) flocking to visit.

Dubbed – perhaps less creatively than it should be – Tate Modern Turns 20, the celebrations proper kick off on the 11th, with a host of performances in and around the gallery itself, as well as the opening of one very special exhibition. You don’t need to necessarily mark it in your calendar; if you see Louise Bourgeois’ terrifyingly large spider dominating Instagram, it’s 11 May. It’s not just Bourgeois in the limelight however, as the Tate Modern is using this opportunity to highlight some of the artists it has championed over the years. Of course, not even the Tate can hold all of them, but one stands out and will be given her own year-long place in the museum: Yayoi Kusama.

The artist is one of the most internationally celebrated working today and is a Tate success story.

The multi-faceted creative tour de force has tipped her colourful hat to everything from painting and sculpture to fashion and fiction.

What she’s best known for however are her impressive installations, and it’s those that will be the focus of Tate Modern Turns 20.

Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Rooms will do just what is says: display not just one but two of her mesmerising illusory spaces. The first is Infinity

TATE MODERN TURNS 20 THE COUNTRY’S MOST EXCITING GALLERY CELEBRATES TWO DECADES OF PUSHING THE ENVELOPE 97

CULTURE — art news

Left and bottom: Our Labyrinth by Lee Mingwei echoes Louise Bourgeois’ iconic spider sculpture, Maman Below: an installation by Brazillian artist Tunga

Expect the weird and wonderful – a day in the life of London’s, if not the world’s, most important art gallery

Mirrored Room – Filled with the Brilliance of Life, a vast space comprising a walkway surrounded by mirrored tiles and water, with hundreds of coloured LEDs in a shifting lightshow. It’s somewhere between a swarm of fireflies and taking LSD in the dark.

Chandelier of Grief on the other hand is far more intense if no less hypnotic. It creates a similar illusion of infinity in every direction, this time with a galaxy of spinning chandeliers in every direction. It’s… a sight to behold. Alongside the rooms, the Tate will also be showing off some of Kusama’s paintings and sculptures from across her career, creating a full-on retrospective.

Throughout the rest of the gallery, the Tate will be leaning into its reputation for thought-provoking artistic pairings.

These will include pairing that aforementioned arachnid, Maman, with a performative piece from Lee Mingwei, Our Labyrinth, where a dancer sweeps grains in a spiral, echoing (apparently) the same themes.

They will be joined by yoga practitioners doing warrior poses, two painters turning the walls black and white in an endless cycle (we’ve all been there) and a pair of Shining-esque twins conjoined by their hair. Expect the weird and wonderful – a (birth) day in the life of London’s, if not the world’s, most important art gallery.

For more information on Tate Modern Turns 20, visit tate.org.uk

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END — moviewatch

DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH Adam Sandler as Howard Ratner in Uncut Gems, wearing a diamond-set Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date

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END — moviewatch

M OVIE WATC H

Uncut Gems When I say Adam Sandler, what film do you think of? Billy Madison? Grown-Ups? The transcendental horrorshow that is Pixels? It’s not exactly the most endearing back catalogue. In fact it’s downright painful – made more so by the fact that Sandler is a damn fine actor, when he wants to be.

Case in point, Uncut Gems. It’s not Sandler’s first dramatic turn; 2009’s Funny People was, ironically, a great serious performance. However this is the first time the actor’s made such an impact around awards season. Outside of the Razzies, that is.

The film is worth the hype. Following jeweller Howard Ratner as he scrambles to extricate himself from gambling debt with a high-stakes windfall,

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it’s a tense, intense film a world away from most big-screen crime capers. Saying much more would be considered a spoiler so I’ll just say catch it on Netflix as soon as you have an evening free.

Of course, if there’s one thing you can be sure of about a diamond-district jeweller is that he’ll have a decent watch, gambling debts or no. In the case of Ratner, said watch is a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date.

The Day-Date’s not seen in film nearly as much as pieces like the Daytona or various subs, but it works for Ratner. It’s Rolex’s jewellery collection and as a gemstone specialist Sandler’s character requires at least a taste of bling. Here the yellowgold watch has a diamond-set bezel and a smattering of stones across the bright red dial, as well as a fully-set bracelet.

It’s a substantial amount of diamonds for a men’s watch, but then Ratner’s no stranger to wearing his wealth. Gold and wood Cartier glasses, a big gold Torah pendant and an oversized Star of David pinky ring in rose gold all join the blinged-out Rolex to build the picture of a man who likes to show off his cash. Even if he can’t actually afford to.

Regardless of whether Uncut Gems was snubbed at the Oscars (it was, not even a single nomination), it’s great to see Sandler’s dramatic performances getting the recognition they deserve. Now, if only that were enough to wipe Pixels 2 out of our memories

CULTURE — food & drink

EDITED BY AMIRA

RESTAURANT &BAR

NEWS

1 / GET ME TO THE GRILL

The Grill at The Dorchester, 53 Park Ln, Mayfair, London W1K 1QA The Dorchester never ceases to amaze me; to eat there is an experience. Despite its fancy interiors and reputation, it’s not stuffy – a refreshing change for most luxury hotel dining spaces. Tom Booton, Head Chef, is just 26 years old and the youngest chef ever to be at the helm of The Grill. You’d never be able to guess though from the perfect blend of sophisticated cuisine. Put simply, I was salivating as I sipped on my ‘Tiddly Wink’ cocktail, a punchy rhubarb concoction. The Colchester crab, kohlrabi, dill and horseradish is an interestingly textured dish (resembling a savoury pana cotta). My vote for the first course does go to the Cumbrian beef tartare, however, as the layers of radish, oxtail jelly and beef-fat yolk made this a delight to devour. You can opt for three courses but then you’d be missing out on the prawn Scotch egg – and we absolutely cannot have that.

Served with warm tartare sauce and a zingy pickled gherkin, this is home comfort amongst the opulent surroundings. The beef wellington serves two and is

recommended far and wide, but dining at The Grill is incomplete, in my humble opinion, without the lobster thermidor tart. Booton insists on serving a whole lobster tail, too, so none of this ‘where’s my lobster’ malarky. For dessert, guests can transfer from their table to the pudding bar: an interactive counter where you can see the pastry chefs creating the sweet treats – the signature being the Double Decker, a cake version of the much-loved chocolate bar.

It’s filling, it’s heavy and it’s divine. If you can manage it, ask for a bit of the rhubarb-and-custard soft serve too – and then roll out The Grill’s grand, gold-plated doors. dorchestercollection.com

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4 / THE SOAK

The Soak, Terminus Pl, Victoria, London SW1W 0RP It’s rare these days to find a restaurant in Central London where you can move freely.

Tight dining quarters mean that most of us are unacquainted with the definition of personal space as we eat. Not at The Soak. High ceilings, large, circular booths and enough space that you could dance your way to your seat. The food is pretty good too. The lamb belly fritters, scallops with pea purée and squid ink make great starters. A variety of mains jumped out at me; the halibut and pork chop in particular.

But the Soak also presides over one of the best fish pies in London, with cod, prawns and creamy mash crust. thesoak.co.uk

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2 / GAUCHO’S RE-VAMP

Gaucho, 60A Charlotte St, Bloomsbury, London W1T 2NU Over the years, multiple steakhouses have opened across London and keeping current isn’t easy. Fortunately for Gaucho it’s not sacrificed Argentinian steaks or quirks such letting diners select the raw cut. What’s changed then? A full revamp that brings a cool, fun, Friday-night vibe no matter the day of the week.

Walking downstairs, the lounge bar is the first taste of New York-inspired ambience. The waiters are as friendly as ever – and there’s no raised eyebrows when you want to order a Chateaubriand to yourself. In fact, the menu even has these either for sharing or the gluttonous. Alongside the meat I’d recommend the Malbec from Gaucho’s own vineyard – which they’ve worked with for over 90 years now. The Viña Patricia will not disappoint. If a bottle is not your game plan, Gaucho also offers wine on tap... gauchorestaurants.com

3 / BREAKING BREAD

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Oklava Bakery & Wine, 64 Grafton Way, Bloomsbury, London W1T 5DP Remember Oklava in Hackney? It’s made its way central, with a bakery and restaurant site in the heart of Fitzrovia. It’s a small and cosy cafe, with pastries lined up by the window and bread being made in front of your eyes. The house-cured pastirma is drizzled in balsamic and the lamb crackling bun is to die for, slathered in garlic butter. Make sure you order fried halloumi, coated in lemon, honey and oregano. Tasty Turkish treats such as milk feta with leeks and blood orange, as well as the bowl of Aegean greens are great additions too. oklava.co.uk

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5 / PASTA LA VISTA

Emilia’s Crafted Pasta, 77 Alie St, Whitechapel, London E1 8NH The team behind Emilia’s take a lot of pride in perfecting their pasta. Named after the ‘home of pasta’, Emilia Romagna, the chefs aim to mirror the fresh pasta in the small trattorias in northern Italy. New to the menu is the casarecce with creamy walnut sauce and chestnut mushrooms – it’s homemade and boy, can you tell. Casarecce appears to the be the favourite here, as when paired with another homemade sauce – Parmesan, pesto and Pecorino – it doesn’t do too badly either. A selection of Italian wines, craft beers and cocktails wash this all down easily. emiliaspasta.com

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CULTURE — food & drink

6 / TREASURE IN CHINATOWN

Orient London, 15 Wardour St, London W1D 6PH The go-to location in London for all things noodles, dim sum and egg-fried. But how to choose? There’s a fair few restaurants in Chinatown but a solid, failsafe option is Orient. The only difficulty you’ll find here is choosing, so let me help you. Start off with some cheung fun and load your table up with a variety of dumplings and other dim sum – the deep fried taro with pork was delicious, as were the classic char siu parcels. If you go for lunch, it’s actually one of the few places that will be busier than dinner. One good thing about dining for lunch is that you can enjoy all the dishes from the main menu too. The clams in black bean sauce, sizzling Mandarin beef and Peking duck are all excellent alongside dim sum. orientlondon.com

7/ PORTUGAL IN THE CITY

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Bar Douro, Finsbury Avenue Square, Unit 3, 1 Finsbury Avenue, EC2M 2PF

Bar Douro is one of my favourite spots for Portuguese food in London, and I’ve long been a regular at the original in Flat Iron Square. So imagine my delight when I found out they were opening a second site in Broadgate. Hello good food and good wine. Similar to the first location, counter dining will face the open kitchen but being larger, there is more seating and even an outside terrace. Classic dishes such as smoked sausage croquettes and salt cod hash will return and frequent diners will be ecstatic to know that the award-winning suckling pig sandwich is here too. Newcomers include seafood stews, crab rice dishes and pork with clams and potatoes – all cooked in black clay pots. Wash it all down with an extensive list of quality Portuguese wines and craft beers. bardouro.co.uk

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8 / WILD BY TART

3-4 Eccleston Yards, Belgravia, London SW1W 9AZ Nestled in the middle of Eccleston Yards by Victoria station is Wild

by Tart. The restaurant has a stripped back yet pretty aesthetic, with a contemporary feel to the space – so much so that, as well as an all-day restaurant, the space acts as a photography studio and an event and retail area. Now onto the menu. Most ingredients are sourced from the Tart family farms, meaning fruit and vegetables are predominantly seasonal with plenty of daily specials. Plates include trout tiradito with lime and chipotle; spiced beetroot and whipped goats’ cheese and butterbean with maple sheep’s curd. The restaurant’s grill will be cooking up charred hispi cabbage with smoked hollandaise while marinated lamb’s leg, braised Tamworth pork and roast leek pizette are among the mains.

Finish the meal properly with a cheese board, bay-leaf ice cream and peanut butter cookie skillet with banana caramel and milk ice 8 cream. That last is pure bliss. wildbytart.com

9 / MEXICAN AT MADERA

Madera at Treehouse London, 14-15 Langham Pl, Marylebone, London W1B 2QS

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A popular addition to central London is Treehouse hotel. Situated just past Oxford Street, the dining at in-house restaurant Madera is as in demand as a room. Enjoy London’s views as you indulge in margaritas and tacos – perfect for a sunset cocktail. The atmosphere at night is electric, with Madera and its upstairs bar, The Nest, fast becoming a popular post-work hangout spot.

Queso fundido and tostadas make excellent starters, while halibut ceviche, sashimis and Mexican fattoush salads are great follow-ups and side dishes.

The chicken mole and beef barbacoa enchiladas were my top main dishes and I, of course, left room for tacos (who doesn’t?!). treehousehotels.com

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CULTURE — food & drink

Clockwise from main image: Novikov’s lounge bar hosts vinyl nights until 10pm; a Hustler cocktail; a Mai Tai

© Adrian Houston Limited

Novikov virgins will be immediately impressed with the size, lively atmosphere and staff

The menu offers extensive range of sushi, dim sum, sashimi and barbecued and charcoaled (Robata) dishes (Lemongrass duck, black cod and King Crab Leg included). It can be a little daunting if you’re not familiar with Asian food, however I have always found the staff here very helpful – just tell them your preference and they will take care of you.

Most dishes are made to be shared. Our starters included Wagyo tacos, popcorn calamari and soft-shell crab. All were well presented and cooked to perfection, especially the super-tender Wagyu.

Next up was the sashimi and sushi selection, complemented with Novikov’s Hybrid Caviar. While all the dishes were fresh and rich in flavour, it was the scallop and black truffle, yellowtail, and quail egg and truffle gunkan that really stood out.

If you’re more inclined to dance than dine, the restaurant is also launching Vinyl Nights. Groove and shake it to disco tunes as DJs Mass and Tigerbalm play all your favourite old school classics. On the first Wednesday each month, expect this eclectic fusion of funk, Afrobeats and Latin-disco – right in the middle of Mayfair. Enjoy a cocktail or two as you listen to Ibiza-approved tracks through the night as the event will run from 10pm until the lounge bar closes.

If you get peckish and didn’t make reservations in either of the restaurants upstairs, the lounge bar snacks include black cod rolls with mango, edamame beans, aubergine fritters and arancini with arrabbiata sauce. novikovrestaurant.co.uk

10 / NOVIKOV

Novikov Restaurant & Bar, 50A Berkeley St, Mayfair, London W1J 8HA Words:

Mark Edwards

Unless you have been hiding under a rock, Novikov doesn’t need a big introduction. The restaurant caused quite the stir in London’s culinary scene when it opened in 2011 thanks to its opulent interior, buzzing social setting and sometimes divisive cuisine. Famously owned by Arkady Novikov – Russia’s most successful restaurateur – the three storey 500+ seater in the heart of Mayfair was his first foray outside of Moscow. Now into its ninth successful year, it is a stalwart in the Mayfair culinary experience and a popular hang-out for many high-profile individuals. I have always been ‘Team Novikov’ – London’s not short of high-end pan-Asian dining options, however it has always been one of my favourites. That said, I haven’t dined here since Luca Malacarne took over as head chef in 2017, so a visit was well overdue.

Novikov virgins will be immediately impressed with the size, lively atmosphere and amount of staff on hand. The focal point is the open kitchen, where an army of chefs roll, simmer and season in front of you, and the huge seafood bar, showcasing a colourful array of fresh (some still moving) fruits de mer.

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CULTURE — rum

Words:

Aidy Smith

RUM AROUND THE WORLD

© JLO

One third of Amazon Prime’s hardest-drinking trio shares the story of the sweetest spirit

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CULTURE — rum

Rum’s vibrant past has seen it transported around the globe from colonial Australia and the various Britishdominated Isles to the shores of the Caribbean where it is more commonly known. But there are other far reaches of the globe that this bountiful spirit also calls home and my purpose here is to unravel a few of my favourite destinations along with my recommended choices, to help you set sail on a voyage of discovery where the rum is never gone.

So what exactly has been going on with rum? Despite its creative past, steeped in all forms of history, tales and triumphs, this wondrous drink slowly began to fade from the limelight over time. As other exciting categories made their way into the spotlight at the turn of the century, people began focusing on other categories and rum became more of an ‘exotic’ drink to indulge upon during those sunny getaways. The tides, as is their nature, are once again changing and over the past ten years rum, only behind gin, has seen the second-largest growth in volume within the UK at 17 per cent and between 20172018 witnessed a 7.5 per cent increase in value. So with that in mind, let’s delve into a few of what, in my opinion, are some of the best rums on the planet.

I’ve always loved the word ‘rum’. Its three letters have such powerful connotations when you think about the history encoded within them. From the age of piracy where rum barrels were traded for gold and plunder to the escapades of the British Navy, who upon capturing Jamaica in 1655 were given a daily ration to get by. Few know that in the 1600s rum production was in fact the most powerful industry in America’s New England and that restrictions on imported molasses in the 1640s may even have had a significant impact on the American Revolution. But I digress.

The Philippines – Don Papa Few know that the Philippines is one of the largest sugarproducing countries in the world and Don Papa is a prime example of the quality rums being produced here.

Their molasses comes from Negros Island, also known as ‘Sugarlandia’ and derives from a purple cane known as ‘cara morada’. Attaining one of the highest sucrose and moisture contents in the world, the molasses, known as ‘Black Gold’ is packed full of distinct rich sweetness. Given the incredibly humid nature of the country, the barrels are incredibly important. Don Papa uses uniquely shaved, toasted and roasted American oak barrels, which are seasoned for 24 months before being lightly charred to give them more fruity flavours. The humidity itself is so intense, each barrel witnesses around 8-12 per cent evaporation per year (ie it loses over half of the liquid in the barrel after seven years). The result of which offers a beautifully rich and fruity rum with a dark golden hue.

I was fortunate enough to visit the island a few years ago and can only describe the journey as one of the most eye-opening experiences I’ve been through. To witness how rum is created in such harsh conditions and to have the quality speak for itself – this is why I do what I do. I also enjoy drinking the stuff too, I like to call it market research… which moves me on to the rum itself!

Aged for seven years, Don Papa is packed full of exotic apricots, raspberries and marmalade with a soothing burst of vanilla and cinnamon. I always like to think of fruitcake with candied citrus when sipping on Don Papa and boy oh boy does it work nicely in a rum punch and an Old Fashioned (otherwise known as the Don Fashioned). £32 from Sainsbury’s

Don Papa is a small-batch rum made in the Philippines from some of the highest-quality sugar cane in the world

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CULTURE — rum

They’re flawlessly simple; wouldn’t want to interrupt that island lifestyle now, would we?

RUM OLD FASHIONED 40 ml dark rum 4-5 dashes Angostura Bitters • 5ml Sugar syrup OR a single brown sugar cube • Cubed ice • Orange peel • •

COCKTAILS Because I’m well aware not everyone likes

sipping their sugar cane spirit neat, here are a couple of my favourite cocktail recipes to ensure your rum of choice goes down as smooth as its makers intended. And don’t worry, they’re flawlessly simple; wouldn’t want to interrupt that island lifestyle now, would we?

If using a brown sugar cube, crush this into the bottom of the mixing glass and add the measure of rum, mixing together until the two have combined, then add the remaining ingredients Otherwise, add all of the ingredients with ice to the mixer and stir for about 60 seconds to chill.

Strain over a large ice cube into an Old Fashioned glass and garnish with a twist of orange or lemon.

THE PAINKILLER 75ml Rum 100ml pineapple juice • 25ml coconut cream • 25ml orange juice • Garnish with a little nutmeg • •

Add all ingredients to the shaker with ice and shake with force to integrate the coconut cream and other ingredients. Strain into an old-fashioned glass or coupé glass filled with large cubes of ice and garnish with a little grated on top.

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CULTURE — rum

Venezuela - Santa Teresa 1796 Founded in 1796 and located in the mountainous Aragua Valley, Hacienda Santa Teresa has witnessed wars, revolutions, invasions and dictators. In a country that seen its fair share of violence, Santa Teresa is the gleaming gem that showcases the true beauty of what this country has to offer. It was all down to a German man named Gustav Julius Vollmer, who upon arriving in Venezuela in 1826, fell in love, married and thus began a family that to this day has continued to run the Haçienda, five generations later.

The wondrous thing about Santa Teresa is its ‘solera’ method, which I’ll touch upon for a second. A solera system is essentially where barrels are stacked in terms of their age, the oldest on the ground, the youngest at the top. As you draw liquid from the barrels at the bottom, it is replaced by those in the barrels above and over time there is a continuous mix of ages, which intertwine to create a truly personalised flavour to that distillery. To this day, every Bottle of Santa Teresa 1796 has some of the very first 1796 cask running through it, given how the original cask was never emptied.

The resulting flavour combines hazelnuts, vanilla and cinnamon with dark chocolate, prunes and sticky honey with just a touch of black pepper to round off this incredible creation. I love sipping this rum on the rocks, where you can really pick out every little detail of flavour. £51 from Master of Malt

The Caribbean – Duppy Share Spiced Rum I couldn’t write about rum and not pay homage to the Caribbean. After all, those glorious islands have paved the way for what rum is today and inspired the image of so many drinks that have dared to enter the market.

But when did it all begin on these islands? The first distillation is believed to have taken place on the Island of Nevis in the 1600s, with a quote in 1651 from a historic document in Barbados stating, “The chief fuddling they make in the island is Rumbullion, alias Kill-Divil, and this is made of sugar canes distilled, a hot, hellish, and terrible liquor.” Suffice to say they’ve improved things quite a bit over the past three centuries.

With the Caribbean home to 13 sovereign island nations, 12 dependent territories and over 7,000

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individual islands, I couldn’t choose just one. Instead, my pick from this oasis comes from both Worthy Park distillery in Jamaica and Four Square in Barbados. My tipple of choice here is none other than Duppy Share Spiced Rum, which touched my lips for the first time this morning, having only been released in late-February.

Spiced rum is a category that excites me for many reasons and while there’s a few on the market only a small handful have managed to conquer great taste without an overbearing sweetness, Duppy Share being one of them. So, what about the name? Duppy Share is another term for ‘Angel’s Share’, the evaporation process that takes place within the rum barrels. Legend dictates that throughout the islands mischievous spirits called Duppies swoop between the distilleries, stealing the best of the rum. Possessed by the Caribbean rhythms, their bodies contort from creature to creature. The Duppy Share Spiced pays tribute to its namesake by centralising a duppy caught mid-metamorphosis.

The craft rum itself offers a blend of spices brought together by a vibrant pineapple and rich kola nut. There’s caramel, ginger, white chocolate and vanilla with a touch of fresh grapefruit, orange and basil. I also find it rather versatile, meaning it would be the perfect match for mixing, whether it be with ginger ale, with cola, or as part of a multitude of cocktails.

The best thing is, nothing is artificial, all flavours are 100 per cent natural – just as the Caribbean intended. £39 from Selfridges

Mauritius – Penny Blue XO Mauritius’ journey to rum excellence began in 1638, when Dutch settlers arrived on the islands, planting sugar cane.

As crops flourished within the rich volcanic soils it made perfect sense for these to be turned into rum and arak.

Produced at the oldest distillery on the island, Penny Blue is named after one of the world’s rarest stamps. I’ll admit, I’m really not quite sure how the misprinting of a stamp made its way to being the name of a rum, but at least the liquid inside tastes great! And hey, this is a watch mag where tropical dials are a thing.

With this rum deriving from a single estate, they have a lot more control over every stage of the process.

The sugar cane sits at one of the sunniest parts of the island with a lot less rainfall, making it juicer and full of flavour. The tropical ageing, sea breeze influence and their distillation method also all have an effect on what ends up in the bottle too. That’s not even taking into account the triple oak ageing methods, as Penny Blue uses ex-Cognac, ex-scotch and ex-bourbon casks to really intertwine the best flavours of each!

Only 10,000 bottles of the XO Batch #6 have been created and for those lucky enough to be able to get their hands on one, they can expect rich stewed tropical fruits with treacle, delicate spices and dark burnt toffee. £43 from Amazon

CULTURE — rum

RUM COCKTAILS MATRIX SWEET 1

2

3

4

SOUR 5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

20 19

K

18

DIFFICULT

17 16

M

15

I

14

G

13 12

L

N

E

11 10 9 8

EASY

J

C

6

B

5 4

F

D

7

A

3

H

2 1

A B C D E F G

Rum cocktails are back in style so I’ve prepped a little cheat sheet so you know what you’ll like – and, in case you fancy giving it a try at home, how hard they are to create, depending on how much you want to impress. Remember – while cocktails are great the ultimate goal is to be able to taste the rum inside too. Just remember that when choosing your rum – you want something that will hold its own. Much, in fact, like the four choices on the preceding pages.

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— — — — — — —

Mojito Mai Tai Daiquiri Caipirinhas Rum Old Fashioned Dark & Stormy Zombie

H I J K L M N

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Cuba Libre Spice 75 Piña Colada Hot Buttered Rum Knickerbocker Cable Car Rum Sour

CULTURE — wines

Oracle Drinks WORDS:

Aidy Smith

We’re satisfying the taste buds of traditionalists and new-age drinkers alike this issue with come extraordinary champagne and whisky releases alongside a couple of things you’ve probably yet to taste...

LAURENT PERRIER GRAND SIECLE MAGNUM 22ND EDITION

COBOS MARCHIORI BLOCK C2 MALBEC 2016 Viña Cobos is overseen by the legend that is Paul Hobbs, who has built multiple successful wineries across the globe. He’d always had a soft spot for Argentina, but after seeing its potential, decided to get more involved. I visited this winery in 2016 and met winemaker, Andres Vignoni, and from the moment these wines touched my lips, fell in love.

Marchiori is a truly outstanding example of why Argentina is striking such a chord. This particular bottle comes from ‘Block C2’, a collection of vines that have been there for over 80 years. The wine itself is deep ruby red, a dark and intense wonder with notable scents of roses, violets, figs, white pepper and cloves. A sip brings raspberries, dark chocolate, silky tannins and an elegant white pepper, black cherry finish. Phwoar. £378 (three bottles) from Fine + Rare

Sparkling wines hold a special place in my heart and I’ll never shy away from a great Champagne, especially in a magnum! Laurent Perrier is the producer of one of my favourite rose brut Champagnes, but it also creates a rare expression called Grand Siecle, which I believe more people need to get their hands on. Launched in 1959, this is only the 22nd time the house has created this beauty, a blend of 2004, 2002 and 1999 vintages.

If you’re wanting a Champagne that not only looks the part, but tastes incredible, then I’d send you in this direction. 100% Grand Cru Vineyards, ten years on the lees to give it that creamy brioche character and phenomenal winemaking that results in candied citrus, gingerbread, toasted almonds and a beautiful floral and honey character. £299 from the Finest Bubble

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IXSIR GRANDE RESERVE Lebanon isn’t the first place people think of when it comes to wine, but they are producing some pretty fantastic stuff and have been for centuries! Its vineyards sit at an altitude of around 1,800 metres, some of the highest in the Northern Hemisphere, meaning the perfect conditions for concentrated wines.

Today, I’ve picked out a white and red from the Grande Reserve range.

The white comprises 60% Viognier, 25% Sauvignon and 15% Chardonnay aged for six months in oak barrels.

Elegantly driven – you’ll experience an explosion of white flowers, peach and citrus fruits, held together with an oaky complexity. The red – 50% Syrah, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Arinarnoa – spends 12 months in oak barrels. This result is a mineraldriven feast of meadow berries and spices. £25 (White), £29 (Red) from Great Western Wine

CULTURE — spirits

EVERLEAF Another great example of a non-alcoholic spirit that has both quality, taste and texture!

What do I want in my glass? A decent drink.

Does it always have to contain alcohol? No. Everleaf combines real vanilla from the northeastern corners of Madagascar and vetiver from Haiti alongside a plethora of sustainably and ethically sourced plants and botanicals.

You can get as creative as you like, but I love getting some good tonic, pouring a decent measure into the glass with ice and garnishing with a wedge of lemon. The vanilla, honey and floral nature of the drink comes together with the slight bitter-sweetness of the tonic to create a really vibrant and refreshing drink. £18 from Sainsbury’s

THE DALMORE AGED 51 YEARS It’s not that often you see a whisky that has aged for more than half a century being released to the market, but The Dalmore has once again created a surge of excitement with its latest bounty, a 51-year-old Single Malt, of which only 51 bottles exist. Beginning its maturation journey in ex-bourbon casks, The Dalmore Aged 51 Years was then distributed between prestigious Port Colheita 1938 casks, exclusive Matusalem sherry casks and firstfill bourbon casks. The spirit was finally reunited in specially selected bourbon barrels for a final flourish, demonstrating how deeply The Dalmore treasures the sanctity of the cask. I was lucky enough to try this wonder in my TV Series The Three Drinkers on Amazon Prime before the release and I can quite confidently say it is one of the most beautiful whiskies I’ve ever had the fortune of being able to try. £55,000 from The Dalmore

WARNER’S RHUBARB GIN I’m from Yorkshire, so naturally I love Rhubarb. I’m also a lover of G&Ts and cocktails, which makes this next choice an easy one.

Warner’s Distillery is based in Harrington, Northamptonshire and prides itself on picking botanicals from its own land. That’s why it has been able to produce a variety of flavoured (naturally flavoured) gins.

In this case we have what is the very first ‘Pink Gin’ to have been created. The reason? No colouring, no artificial flavouring and no bitters, just 4,000 tonnes of real rhubarb which equates to a third of each and every bottle being pure pressed rhubarb juice. £34 from Master of Malt

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CULTURE — travel

Words:

Sam Kessler

SLEEPING IN STYLE THE COOLEST, QUIRKIEST AND MOST ECLECTIC DESIGN HOTELS IN THE WORLD

The clothes maketh the man, but it takes some of the shine off if said clothes reside in a dull wardrobe in an uninspired hotel in the blandest part of the city. While not everyone can design a hotel to their exact tastes, at the very least you can find somewhere far cooler to stay than the usual chains and comfortable, traditionally luxurious places – somewhere that’ll have your Instagram followers eating out of the palm of your hand.

Here, then, are the coolest design hotels in the world.

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SWEDEN

TREEHOTEL There’s getting back to nature then there’s Sweden’s Treehotel. The ‘tree’ part of the name is right; this magnificent slice of Architectural Digest is situated among the pines of the Arctic Circle, a dramatic, sweeping landscape generally under a good layer of snow. The hotel part… now that’s up for debate.

Rather than a single hub, Treehotel is made up of seven individually-designed treehouses, each suspended somewhere in the canopy of the pines.

They range from a teetering cabin to a mirrored cube camouflaged in the forest to an actual UFO, accessible via ladder. Eclectic doesn’t even begin to describe this place.

Inside, the treehouses are perfectly comfortable with heating, electricity and water all self-sustained within the hotel – which is a good thing, given that it’s pretty damn remote. But then that’s the point; book your quirky cabin of choice and head out into the Scandinavian wilderness in style.

Rooms from £375, treehotel.se

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A hydroelectric power plant might not be the first place you’d want to stay, but this extraordinary hotel jutting out into the middle of Tasmania’s Lake St Claire begs to prove you wrong.

Pumphouse Point is a miraculous feat of engineering and its transformation into a hotel has left plenty of the industrial heritage intact.

On the other hand there are floor to ceiling windows in most rooms granting unobstructed views across the surrounding water. The result is a kind of rugged comfort, a brutalist luxury that it’s hard not to love.

Like the hotel itself, the food and drink is uncomplicated but comforting, with fresh, seasonal ingredients in line with the natural environment around the obviously man-made hotel. Bear in mind though that there are actually two buildings to the hotel – the shorehouse and the pumphouse.

Make sure you book the right one.

AUSTRALIA

PUMPHOUSE POINT

Rooms from £170, pumphousepoint.com.au

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FRANCE

M A M A SHELTER This is a world away from the staid, classical interiors you’ll find in most Parisian stays; it’s darker, edgier and tinged with neon

If you feel like you’ve an appreciation for cool, industrial design then you’re probably a fan of Philippe Starck. The Frenchman is one of the most influential modern designers and at Mama Shelter in Paris’ historic Bagnolet district, he has channelled every inch of his creativity into an impressively unique hotel.

This is a world away from the staid, classical interiors you’ll find in most Parisian stays; it’s darker, edgier and tinged with plenty of neon. Throw in plenty of off-kilter furniture and evocative objets d’art and you have the kind of interiors that keep you entranced.

Fortunately for anyone staying longer than an Instagram pic, it’s also pretty comfortable, especially with a Michelin-starred chef helming the restaurant and a stunning rooftop terrace.

There are a few Mama Shelters around the world now – all quirkily different of course – but the original remains the best, and one of the best-value propositions in Paris.

Rooms from £82, mamashelter.com

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SINGAPORE

THE WAREHOUSE HOTEL Singapore is a striking modern city-state, the kind of place that seems to have been planned out from inception to be the perfect urban environment. The Warehouse Hotel therefore is a welcome dose of the old world, situated in a converted spice warehouse dating back to the 19th century.

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Its riverside location speaks for itself, but the hotel’s charm lies in the remaining architecture.

It’s dwarfed by most of the buildings nearby yet feels anything but small inside, with the cavernous lobby echoing the hotel’s industrial heritage. Mixed with plenty of modern design touches in the rooms, it’s old world meets new.

The hotel’s restaurant Po, however, strives to keep to the old with a traditional Malay feel and some seriously good Singaporean food to match. It’s the perfect place for a flying visit to Singapore.

Rooms from £160, thewarehousehotel.com

CULTURE — travel

LONDON

ARTIST RESIDENCE If the over-the-top grandeur of most London hotels is getting a bit much for a quiet stay in the capital – we wouldn’t blame you – then check out Artist Residence, which combines quaint Victorian architecture with galleryclass artworks.

London’s branch of Artist Residence (others being dotted around the UK) is situated in a quiet part of Pimlico, a stone’s throw from the most desirable addresses in the capital.

There are only ten rooms to this most boutique of boutique hotels, each individually designed and each with its own selection of contemporary artworks from the likes of Tommy Clarke and Harland Miller.

There are only ten rooms, each individually designed and each with its own selection of contemporary artworks from the likes of Tommy Clarke and Harland Miller

The building itself used to be a pub, and there are plenty of upcycled touches throughout to hammer that home, creating a quirky, comfortable and almost painfully British hotel for the ideal under-the-radar London visit.

Rooms from £160, artistresidence.co.uk

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A huge communal spa acts as the central hub of San Luis, and takes great advantage of the surrounding natural environment

ITALY

SAN LUIS HOTEL Looking more like a lakeside commune than a traditional hotel, San Luis is a quiet, pensive retreat surrounded by the mountains, trees and waters of Italy’s rugged Tyrol region.

If you enjoy being on the water, there’s surely nowhere you’d rather go than this.

Each of the chalets and treehouses has floor-to-ceiling windows, and the locally-sourced wooden buildings make you feel very at one with nature – as do the hot tubs sat in the middle of the lake. A huge communal spa acts as the central hub of San Luis, and takes great advantage of the surrounding natural environment.

Don’t worry about the time of year you visit either. In Summer you get glorious warmth while in the winter the lake freezes over enough to ice skate before retreating to each room’s open fireplace in true Alpine style. If you want utmost privacy from the world, San Luis is for you.

Rooms from £261, sanluis-hotel.com

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SOUTH AFRICA

THE SILO What was once the tallest building in sub-Saharan Africa, a massive grain elevator, has now been transformed into… well, one of the tallest hotels in sub-Saharan Africa.

Lording over Cape Town, The Silo is a work of architectural art, with 18-foot pillowed windows lending stunning views across the V&A Waterfront.

In fact, so important to Cape Town is The Silo that the bottom half of the hotel is home to the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, which aims to compete with the likes of MoMA and our own Tate Modern.

From the inside those huge, geometrically-framed windows provide a sleek, industrial feel, especially when paired with colourful furniture and plenty of art. It’s a heady mix, no matter which floor of the hotel you find yourself on and like nothing else in South Africa.

From the inside those huge, geometricallyframed windows provide a sleek, industrial feel, especially when paired with colourful furniture and plenty of art

Rooms from £699, theroyalportfolio.com

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BRAZIL

HOTEL UNIQUE When São Paulo architect Ruy Ohtake was given the brief to create an individual, eyecatching hotel, he didn’t hold back. Rather than opt for something as prosaic as four square walls and a roof, he instead decided to seemingly run a cruise ship aground and build the hotel from its hulk. The result is Hotel Unique – and unique it is.

The design doesn’t stop at the eye-popping exterior either. Narrow, almost claustrophobic corridors give way to huge, high-ceilinged atriums with plenty of glass and an impressive amount of natural light, a dazzling contrast that you won’t soon get used to. Floor-to-ceiling windows and ships’ portholes offer unbeatable views across São Paulo, though the best views are from the rooftop.

The rooftop bar and pool area is where you’ll find yourself spending every spare second. Luridly coloured and with an extensive cocktail list, it’s the ideal place to soak up the tropical sun. Oh and the pools all have underwater sound-systems. Well, this is Brazil; party vibe is a given.

Rooms from £212, hotelunique.com

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CULTURE — books

oracle

reads THE TALENTED MR RIPLEY, PATRICIA HIGHSMITH

Shane Kurup, Deputy Style Editor of Men’s Health selects his required reading for any well-

One of the most clinical, amoral and yet somehow likeable antiheroes out there, Tom Ripley is not a nice man. Yet he does live up to the title when it comes down to the fictions he creates about his personas, right down to the clothes his characters wear. In fact, Patricia Highsmith’s novel reads like a sartorial guide to midcentury style, even if you’re not a serial killer that’s really into identity fraud.

dressed gent Edit by Shane Kurup Words by Sam Kessler

One of the most clinical, amoral and yet somehow likeable antiheroes out there, Tom Ripley is not a nice man

ON A CHINESE SCREEN: SKETCHES OF LIFE IN CHINA, W. SOMERSET MAUGHAM If you’ve ever been frustrated with expats abroad, this is the book for you. A series of fifty-eight short sketches, Maugham’s ostensible travel memoir switches between rubbing shoulders with consuls to chatting to locals at roadside inns, all the while capturing the last days of Old China and the extreme cultural divides with the West. It’s as relevant now as it’s ever been.

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THE GREAT GATSBY, F. SCOTT FITZGERALD It’s strange to think that The Great Gatsby was initially F. Scott Fitzgerald’s greatest failure. Today, with its themes of self-reinvention and the impossibility of recapturing the past, it’s often cited as the definitive American novel and is one of the most influential literary snapshots of the Jazz Age. It also helps that it can be read in one sitting.

THE VANITY FAIR DIARIES, TINA BROWN Tina Brown wasn’t just Editor of Vanity Fair for eight spectacular years; she was the driving force behind what is now one of the most famous publications in the world. A funny, fascinating and intimate self-portrait of Brown’s mission to reinvent the then-failing magazine, it’s a non-stop ride through the golden age of print media drenched in ‘80s excess.

HARDY AMIES, STILL HERE

It’s often cited as the definitive American novel and is one of the most influential literary snapshots of the Jazz Age

It might be hard to find nowadays but this gem of an autobiography is well worth hunting down. The humble, laconic musings of Savile Row’s most important tailor, it’s a rare insight into the man behind the influential ABCs of Men’s Fashion and an insightful read in and of itself.

It may soon be disappearing underwater but for now Venice is one of the most enchanting cities in the world – the canals and waterways of which are beautifully captured in Joseph Brodsky’s seminal expat observations.

If Watermark: An Essay on Venice doesn’t make you fall in love with the city all over again, you have no heart.

WATERMARK: AN ESSAY ON VENICE, JOSEPH BRODSKY

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FINEST AND RAREST SPIRITS Sotheby’s, 18 March

AUCTION WATCH THIS MONTH’S BIDS AND PIECES

PASSION OF A LIFETIME Gooding & Co, 1 April

This is no April Fool’s joke; this is one of the most important private collections ever brought to auction. While relatively small as these things go – there are 16 lots instead of 60 – that’s not the number that matters. Three of the cars on offer are expected to go for north of $10m. Those include a 1961 Aston Martin DB4 GT Zagato, one of the most beautiful ever built; one of 17 Bugatti Type 57S Atalante’s built with the Atalante coachwork and a 1934 Bugatti Type 59 Sports once owned by King Leopold III of Belgium.

There are other rare models in the collection from Lamborghini, Bentley and Lancia too, the culmination of a lifetime of collecting.

This could well be one of the most noteworthy vintage and classic car auctions in years…

View all lots at auction.goodingco.com

WATCHES ONLINE: A NEW DECADE OF TIME, Christie’s, Until 10 March

With over 200 lots in the Christie’s bumper watch sale there are plenty of rare models to choose from, designed to fill that burning hole in your collection. Missing a Nautilus? There’s a Ref. 3800/1 estimated at a cool $35,000. How about

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The Year of the Rat will be good luck for anyone that manages to pick up one of the rarest whiskies ever to come to auction: the Karuizawa Single Cask #5627 Zodiac Rat 1960.

With the distillery long since closed, there can’t be much more of this sublime There’s a full liquid left in the collection of six crystal world. There’s also decanters a good showing ranging from from The Macallan.

50 to 65 years There’s a full old, and the collection of the Six oldest whisky Pillars, six crystal to ever be decanters ranging released from from 50 to 65 years Macallan old, and the oldest whisky to ever be released from Macallan (or from nearly all distilleries for that matter) the 72-year old Macallan Genesis.

Would you ever dare open it?

View all lots at www.sothebys.com

a Daytona? Specifically the ‘Zenith’ Ref. 16520, with a developing tropical dial, is yours for around $20,000.

Rarer still there’s a Vacheron Constantin “Turnograph” Ref. 6782, a steal at $12,000.

There are more affordable watches of course; estimates start at around 1k. But these are the ones that’ll pull the crowd online, the reasons

to get your bids in well before the auction ends on the 10th.

View all lots at onlineonly.christies.com

BACK — in focus

IN FOCUS AN INSIGHT INTO THREE FASCINATING BRANDS Edited By

SAM KESSLER

Gruppo Gamma, Von Doren and Alsta

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GRUPPO GAMMA What makes the ultimate tool watch? It’s a pretty open question and one you likely already have an answer formulating in your head about. It’s about survivability, of course; or perhaps usability? You might even just like that pleasingly chunky, solid quality that defines many a rugged timepiece. It’s a question that’s also been pondered in obsessive depth by none other than Gruppo Gamma.

Founded in 2013, Gruppo Gamma is among the underground club of microbrands that have sprung up in the collector’s hub of Singapore over the last decade, lending its own aesthetic tendencies to the ever-evolving horological scene that draws watch lovers to the city-state.

That voice however is that of an underwater explorer, taking many of the foundations laid down by the military divers of the 1930s and 1940s and building on them with some seriously cool, vintage-inspired designs. In fact, you can read the bloodlines of Gruppo Gamma’s collection like a greatest hits of diving horology.

Its earliest piece, for example, is the aptly-named Vanguard. Inspired by the Frogmen watches like Panerai’s Radiomir, it shares the same Florentine flavour without being a copy. It’s a big, bawdy piece of heavy metal fit to strap over scuba gear in any dive down to 200m.

Soon we’ll get to see the Vanguard Mk IV, which replaces the early steel cases with marine-grade bronze, designed to give the best possible patina to the watch over time. While I’m not personally a fan of bronze unless it’s nice and clean, the new Vanguard promises to age magnificently.

Then comes the Divemaster, which harks back to the 1950s when many of the most iconic divers in history were created: think the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner, et al. The Divemaster draws a little from them all to create a flawlessly put-together collage of marine royalty.

While the original Divemaster is handsome enough, Gruppo Gamma is also releasing a slightly more extreme edition, in the same style but equipped with a phenomenal 500m waterresistance rating and helium escape valve.

The third collection is somewhere between the Vanguard and the Divemaster; in fact, the Peacemaker was a discarded concept for what the Vanguard became. Rooted in the 1940s, it has a slightly more military vibe and is a lovely, paredback take on that iconic Frogman nautical style.

It’s the most subtle of the collection, with the khaki green dial being the highlight.

Finally we have a watch that is again inspired by diving history… just not by watches. The striking, off-kilter design of the Nexus is meant to imitate a

Above, clockwise from top left: the Gruppo Gamma Divemaster; Nexus; and Vanguard

The Divemaster harks back to the 1950s when many of the most iconic divers in history were created depth gauge and, with its wandering hours, is a nice dose of crazy amongst Gruppo Gamma’s vintage-themed collection.

So what makes the ultimate tool watch? It’s not a question that can really be answered; for every task there’s a different tool, after all. But if you’re after a great diving instrument, complete with Swiss automatic movements, Gruppo Gamma is a safe bet.

Find out more at gruppogammawatches.com

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VON DOREN You’ve probably never heard of Ålesund. Don’t worry, there’s not a huge amount to know. It’s not the largest, most populous or most important town in Norway. It’s pretty enough but not exactly Portofino.

However, it does have two things going for it, the first being an intriguing place in nautical history thanks to Norwegian sailor Ole Brude.

The story goes that in 1904, the 24-year-old set sail like the Vikings of old to cross from Ålesund to Boston. Rather than a longship, his vessel was a self-designed, 18-foot lifeboat somewhat akin to a floating egg. He wanted to show that closed lifeboats were the future. They were; just not until the 70s.

Still, the ship – dubbed Uræd, Norwegian for ‘Fearless’ – crossed through storms all the way to the US coast, earning Brude an audience with President Roosevelt for his achievement – which brings us nicely to Ålesund’s second global export, Von Doren.

Founded in 2016, Von Doren is in the middle of its own epic journey and founder Øyvind VonDoren Asbjørnsen found inspiration for the brand’s latest leg in Brude’s story. You see, Von Doren is in the midst of a transition. Like many a startup it began in the accessible, creating welldesigned, Swiss-made watches at a very affordable price. Now it’s upping the ante with what promises to be the watch that makes its name.

The name for the piece? Uræd, of course.

Uræd is a very different animal from Von Doren’s previous piece. That’s not to put those down of course; they were handsome enough. But the new piece has all the specs of a serious Swiss watch and a design inspired by Brude’s journey into becoming a true nautical instrument.

Despite having its design roots in the early 1900s, the Uræd is slightly different from the host of other ‘retro’ watches that have come out recently. For one, it has plenty of Art Nouveau influences, courtesy of Ålesund (which is, coincidentally, the Von Doren founder’s hometown).

The rounded, bi-directional sapphire bezel is wonderfully tactile, while the big day indicator at 12 o’clock matches the grooved outer ring to the dial flawlessly. It’s understated, nuanced and incredibly handsome in green. It’s fine in the blue and black too, but that ocean green is simply stunning.

This being a step up for Von Doren it almost goes without saying that the new piece will have a significantly improved movement. The one in question is the STP 4-13 with a 44-hour power reserve. The Swiss-made day-date movement is reliable, accessible and does everything you care to ask of it.

Part of every dial is formed from the bonnet of a former Aston Martin DB5

The Uræd was designed in Norway to honour the crew aboard the fateful ship of the same name

It’s understated, nuanced and incredibly handsome in green While you can’t always tell what to expect from a Kickstarter campaign, we’re looking forward to getting the Uræd on our wrists – and we’re not the only ones. When it launched on Kickstarter Von Doren had a goal of just over $21,000 to get some prototypes built. The total is currently sitting at well over $600,000. That’s a lot of faith.

Find out more about Uræd at vondoren.com. If you want to back the project yourself, you can find it on kickstarter.com

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ALSTA You may well have come across Alsta before, albeit in a bit of a cameo. I’ll give you a hint: “We’re going to need a bigger boat.”

Back in the 60s and 70s Alsta built some of the most stylish nautical watches around – big, robust, industrial slices of ocean cool. That included a starring turn in the epic capitalist allegory (or junky shark movie, depending on who you talk to), Jaws.

However, they weren’t quite as timeless as the film. Like many an independent brand in the 70s, the quartz crisis killed them off and until recently you could find a fair few languishing in vintage watch shops and the occasional down to earth auction. They were one of those fun little finds that are always worth plumping for, not much more.

That was, of course, until 2014 when the Alsta name was brought out of retirement and even more importantly 2017 when it released its first wristwatch in 40 years: the Nautoscaph II. You can guess where they got the inspiration from – inspiration though, not blueprints.

That’s important to note.

The Nautoscaph II was just what it needed to be, both throwback and shiny new vision for Alsta and so far has been a pretty massive success – so much so that they quickly created the Nautoscaph III and the Surf n Ski, a funky number just as idiosyncratic as its name.

Now though Alsta is going back to the silver screen for the adaptation we’ve all been waiting for: the Nautoscaph Superautomatic. Rather than the more rounded design of the new interpretations of the Nautoscaph, this latest edition is a spitting image for the one Richard Dreyfuss wore in the seminal 1975 movie.

The ‘Jaws Watch’ is as authentic as it’s possible to be without raiding vintage shops around the world for parts. That means an industrial cushion case in brushed steel, a chunky black and silver diving bezel and a characterful dial.

There are some allusions to modernity of course, the most notable being the case size. The original was tiny for a diver, especially by today’s standards, and has in the new version been upped to 38mm.

It wears larger thanks to the shape of the watch but

it’s still diminutive by tool watch standards. Throw in a contemporary movement and you have a movie watch that’ll last.

More importantly, it’s a practical instrument.

While I’d be hesitant to try it against a shark, it’s been tested to rigorous standards and is ISO 1413 and 763 compliant – ie it can get beaten up by a magnet and still run fine.

It’s a surprise really that Alsta was only revived back in 2014; it has the perfect archive of retro designs and a silver-screen pedigree, what more could you ask for? Still, now they’re here it looks like they’re here to stay. Now we’re off to re-watch a classic.

Find out more at alstawatch.com

The Nautoscaph Superautomatic is an updated version of the model worn by Richard Dreyfuss in Jaws

The ‘Jaws Watch’ is as authentic as it’s possible to be without raiding vintage shops around the world 145

BACK — impulse buy

impulse buy

Circula

Heritage Hand-Wound, €850 What do you think you need to pay for a watch entirely made in Germany? Your mind’s probably jumping to the denizens of Glashütte and the tens of thousands of pounds that and similar watchmakers command. What if we told you that it could cost you as little as €850?

Hand-made in Pforzeim, Circula is a revived heritage brand dating back in its original form to 1955 in the watchmaking heart of the Black Forest. That however isn’t necessarily what sets it apart; that would be its movements.

Having come across a treasure trove of new-old stock movements – vintage movements that have never been used – Cornelius Huber, grandson of the original founder of Circula, decided to create a modern reinterpretation of the type of watches his grandfather would have built. The result is the lovely Heritage Hand-Wound.

This is more than a retro tie-in; it’s a truly historical watch

Using the newly rediscovered 1970s PUW-calibre 561 movement as a base, the Heritage Hand-Wound is a beautifully minimal, elegant timepiece suffused in the design tenets of the 50s.

The 39mm size is eminently wearable, especially as it measures in at just 9.9mm thick. The white dial paired with blued hands and indexes give it a classical vibe, as does the hand-wound nature of the movement.

This is more than a retro tie-in; it’s a truly historical watch using a vintage movement, retro design and modern construction. The best part, however?

The cost. For a piece of German horological history you’ll be set back less than €900. If that’s not making history, nothing is.

Just be quick; there are only so many of these movements around.

Buy now at circulawatches.com

Every Circula Heritage Hand-Wound uses a previously unused vintage movement

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BACK — impulse buy

Undone x Simple Union 無2(MŪ2), $395

If you’re looking for a cool new timepiece without the investment, you’ll likely have come across Undone before, either for its customisable pieces or its super-cool collaborations. Musings of life and death? Maybe not. Still, that’s what’s at the heart of this second collaboration between Undone and textile specialist Simple Union.

The bronze-cased Base Camp model has been given an oriental facelift, first with Undone’s own Kyoto Dial (an oriental twist on a California dial), second with a 150+ year old fabric from Meiji-era Japan.

The dial couldn’t be more apt; this watch highlights two very different views of the world, split between the military utilitarianism of the Base Camp case and the Buddhist sensibilities of strap and dial. Throw in a bronze case that will age over time – another philosophical note there if you care to dwell on it – and you have one of Undone’s coolest collabs to date – and for just over £300, too. undone.com

Farr + Swit

Seaplane Automatic “Midnight Landing”, $649 The States isn’t most collectors’ port of call when it comes to finding their next watch; they just don’t have the horological heritage of Europe. That hasn’t stopped Farr + Swit making a good amount of headway as a Chicago microbrand, mainly thanks to the solid build quality and stealthy looks of its hardy Seaplane.

Just like a proper island-hopping aircraft, the Seaplane is built to be a workhorse, complete with a fitting Sellita SW-200 movement. So far, so much like every affordable diver out there. Yet it’s the design of the Midnight Landing edition that sets it apart.

Mixing the stealthy pitch black with flashes of bright blue amongst the white indexes and diving bezel markings makes for an eye-catching look without

If you’re wondering what American watchmaking has to offer, start here

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sacrificing practicalities like legibility. It even has a wavy dial if you have Omega Seamaster 300m hang-ups. If you’re wondering what American watchmaking has to offer, start here: it’s a brave new world of watches, all for just over £500. farrandswit.com

BACK — frost

MONAN ROSE GOLD TWO PRINCESS CUFF BRACELET, £11,000 Elegant and regal – there’s something decidedly ancient-era about the Two Princess Cuff. Perhaps it’s the sinuous curves, the perfect match for any flowing gown; perhaps it’s the Grecian ornamentation. Or perhaps it’s because it’s somewhat reminiscent of a Roman-inspired sandal.

Whichever way, it’s a beautifully – if deceptively – simple piece ready for oncoming spring.

MAKE YOUR MARK FROST OF LONDON SELECTS THE MOST FASHION-FORWARD PIECES FROM ITS COLLECTION

AISHA BAKER WHITE GOLD LIP LOCK DIAMOND RING, £11,800

Words: Sam Kessler

Part Rolling Stones rock ‘n’ roll chic, part Jared Leto’s Joker goes disco, this plump-lipped piece from Aisha Baker is fun, colourful and extravagant all at once. The brilliant-cut diamond-studded lips are complemented by colourfully-enamelled choppers in a rainbow smile. There’s also a smaller pair of lips joining the twin bands, just in case it didn’t stand out enough.

A couture dress should be able to speak for itself, but where’s the fun in that? Any true fashionista should have a jewellery chest of pieces just begging to be shown off around Milan Fashion Week or on the front row of a Prada catwalk show.

If you’re looking for a little inspiration in that direction, let us help you, with a selection of fashion-forward haute joaillerie to set off any show-stopping dress. Or a lazy weekend in your pyjamas. We won’t judge.

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BACK — frost

YEPREM WHITE GOLD DIAMOND AND PEARL EARRINGS, £4,100 DJULA WHITE GOLD MULTI SUN DIAMOND HAND CHAIN, £3,895

Between the almost luminescent pearls and the equally glitzy diamonds at their centres, this pair of earrings from Beirut-based jeweller Yeprem is sure to dazzle.

Restrained and minimal as far as this particular house is concerned, they are nonetheless a stunning exercise in the same artistic sensibilities Yeprem is known for.

Looking for a piece with a little more exoticism than your usual bangle or ring? Look no further than Djula’s spectacular hand chain.

Festooned with a trio of blazing, diamond-set suns, this is a delicate and unusual piece guaranteed to shine at any socialite party.

Just pair with something streamlined and simple and nothing will eclipse these suns.

SHAY FINE JEWELLERY YELLOW GOLD RAINBOW BAGUETTE & LINK CHAIN ANKLET, £10,800

TABBAH YELLOW GOLD LIONS HEAD PENDANT, £2,200 Why bother with a Medusa’s head when you can swap a mane of writhing snakes for the real thing? Especially when it’s printed on gold. This threedimensional lion’s head from Tabbah can’t help but make its presence felt. Bordered like an ancient coin and finished on a delicate gold chain it’s a punchy statement piece without the stones.

Spotted your dream SS20 accessory? All of these pieces and more are available at Frost of London, frostoflondon.co.uk

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Black’s always in style, but where’s the fun in that?

Show your true colours with this striking anklet from Shay Fine Jewellery. With 3.2 carats of multi-hued gemstones – as well as a delicately diamond-set clasp – this anklet is the perfect fun party piece for the start of spring. It’s bright, quirky and beautiful – everything a fashionista could ask for.

FRONT — opinion

THE OLD FART SPEAKS Ken Kessler on Style vs Substance

You can just as easily change this month’s topic to ‘Dress Watches vs Tool Watches’ and you’d still be dealing with the same duopoly that dominates the watch world. Ever since the first modern wristwatches appeared – whether you consider the milestone to be either Cartier’s Santos or Tank, or any of the pocket watch conversions that appeared during WWI – there was always a division between the two. But I gotta tell you right here: style and substance are not necessarily mutually exclusive … nor incapable of existing in the same timepiece.

Everything, however, is subjective when it comes to watches – value, quality, size, colour, you name it – because watches are unique among luxury purchases: they all have to do the same exact thing.

This is not what the industry wants you to hear, but reminding you that a £15 quartz ‘fashion watch’ probably tells time more accurately than a £250,000 tourbillon kinda misses the point. Instead it’s this simple: you either like fine watches, their heft, their look, their story, or you don’t, in which case, you might as well just check your phone.

Which brings us immediately to the ‘substance’ part of this month’s polemic. Tool watches do have a purpose beyond the mere telling of time, regardless of what other functions (or, in this context, complications) may be present. A tool watch can be a diving watch, which means water-resistance and surviving the pressure of the deep; a pilot’s watch is geared up for navigation; it can be a watch for a specific occupation, such as those produced by Ball Watch; it could be a chronograph for sport timing or any of a thousand other roles.

What is not necessary for these watches to fulfil their design criteria is good looks, or any semblance of style. The astronauts didn’t wear Omega Speedmaster Professionals because they looked cool, nor was Thor Heyerdahl partial to his Eterna because of its appearance.

All that mattered was the watches’ ability to survive the rigours of, respectively, space travel and a treacherous sea voyage.

Conversely, one might surmise that Rudolph Valentino loved his Cartier Tank so much that he wore it in Son of the Sheik in 1926. This Italian screen god had a sense of impeccable style which extended to spats, Brilliantine’d hair and Isotta-Fraschini coach-built town car.

Clearly, he cared not about the Tank’s unsuitability for a sheik, as he raced across desert on horseback, subjecting it to heat, sand and shock beyond the design parameters of what was a relatively delicate timepiece. Shock resistance was two decades away.

Alas, Valentino died a half-century before the arrival of the watches that would have suited both the character in the film and the real person, who was part of Hollywood’s elite. The arrival of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, followed by the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Girard-Perregaux’s underrated Laureato, a slew of Piaget and Bulgari models, and, more recently, the butch H. Moser Streamliner, ensured that you could have your cake, slice it, eat it and look good doing it.

All it really took was a bit of refinement, and watches able to withstand a round of golf or a dive in the sea could be rendered elegant enough to cross the line from functionality to flair. The thing is, the base Rolex Air-King has been doing that for at least 60 years: it’s an Oyster, it’s steel, it’ll take as much of a beating as you care to inflict, yet it is as sleek and chic as any watch you could name, especially if you opt for the black dial with the thinnest of indices.

But what if you’re not the roué who wants both, to flit from tennis court to boudoir, sushi bar to squash court, private members’ club to golf course? What if style matters to you more than purpose? In which case you are a perfect candidate for the most vain of all the watch industry’s obsessions: thinness.

Like the matron who said that a woman can never be too rich nor too thin, there are those who equate ultra-thin watches with some nebulous form of ultimate Reminding you that a £15 suavity. Fine, keep chasing that under-2.5mm watch form, quartz ‘fashion watch’ which does absolutely nothing probably tells time for a watch’s integrity. It’s like the Japanese designer obsessed more accurately than with size reduction, but who a £250,000 tourbillon came a cropper when he kinda misses the point miniaturised a vibrator.

Thinness for the sake of it is one of those causes célèbre that’s actually rather pointless. However, if you’re a peacock consumed by elegance – you know, the sort who irons his jeans and only wears his trainers once – then ultra-thins represent style for the sake of it, more so than any other watch pursuit I can name. And that’s OK, too. Thinness is no more absurd than tourbillons in wristwatches.

Style is strictly personal. Style is a statement made by one’s self, how one wants to be seen, the impression one wants to make. You love retro? Buy vintage, or a fine reissue like one of Longines’ or Hamilton’s historic models. Macho? Buy a Panerai. Which brings us back to tool watches.

If you want to convey an air of purposefulness, then it has to be an IWC pilot’s watch, one of the more sober Breitlings, the aforementioned Speedmaster Pro, something from Bell & Ross or Bremont or Doxa or Glycine or – if you just want it over and done with – any steel Rolex. You may not win points on originality, but neither will you ever be accused of being a featherweight fashion victim.

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