Oracle Time - December/January Double Edition - Issue 68 by Oracle Time Magazine

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .68

Raiding the Archives

GLASHUTTE ORIGINAL The Retro Issue ITALIAN EXOTICS | DREAM RE-ISSUES | PREP REVIVAL

ISSUE 68

5.95

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ORACLE TIME #68

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent Watch: Glashütte glashuette-original.com

Hard as it is to believe from my less-than-youthful glow nowadays (I’d like to blame lockdown) I’m a 90s child. That means I was brought up on Game Boys, Cartoon Network and some of the worst music of the past 50 years. It was not the best decade. That’s probably the reason I’ve always had an affinity for the 50s and 60s; call it temporal escapism. I’m apparently not the only one, if the watch world is anything to go by. Sure, vintage watches from the nebulous retro years are some of the most sought-after, but you don’t even need to opt for pre-owned to get your hands on something with the right throwback vibes, as our round-up of retro-styled timepieces (page 75), and our 70s-inspired shoot (page 64) show. One of the archetypal old-school watchmakers in fact graces our cover this issue. Between the charming 60s utilitarian look of the SeaQ and the authentic 20s haute horology of their latest commemorative limited edition, Glashütte Original is making the most of their – and the horological region’s – archives. Find out more on page 42. In fact, given the number of re-issues you could be forgiven for assuming that there was no archive left un-raided in the watch world – but that’s most definitely not the case. There are a ton of vintage references yet to be dusted off and brought back out into the light of day. Enough in fact, that we enlisted a good cross-section of the British watch press to weigh in on the subject. Find out their top ten picks for what should be re-issued on page 49. While the watch side of things is mainly UK-influenced, for our style section this issue Nick Carvell hops across the pond (virtually, I hope) to discover the resurgent prep scene of NYC and its ties with the stock exchange on page 84, followed by his edit on how to get the look for yourself. Think blazers, rugby shirts and New England winter-proof loafers. It’s yet to be seen (at the time of writing at least) whether or not we here in London will be able to head out for some fine dining any time soon. My money’s on not. So just to be cruel, rather than opt for a round-up of the latest culinary news and openings when there is none, Nick Savage opted instead to interview one of the most influential names in the restaurant scene, Mourad Mazouz. Stoke your appetite on page 135. Finally, to bring things back full circle, Adam Hay-Nicholls takes a deep dive into the insane supercars of the 90s, illustrating just why Italians do it better. They might not be enough to turn around a pretty awful decade, but they’ll do a damn good job at trying. As ever, stay safe and stay sane. We’ll be back in print form in February so until then, have a good Christmas break. Enjoy the issue. Sam Kessler, Editor

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ORACLE TIME #68

CONTRIBUTORS

WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE

EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk

Nick Carvell

A lifelong fan of double denim (even triple on occasion), Nick started his career as Social Media Editor of mrporter.com before working as Associate Style Editor at British GQ then Editor of The Jackal. He is now a freelance menswear editor, writing from lockdown at his kitchen table in South London.

Adam Hay-Nicholls

ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk

specialises in Formula 1, expensive cars and luxury travel, and contributes to GQ, the Sunday Telegraph, City A.M. and Metro. Among his many international adventures, he’s raced McLarens in the Arctic Circle, been a chauffeur in Las Vegas and flown non-stop around the world by private jet.

SUB EDITOR

Dan Mobbs danmobbs@hotmail.com DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Kirsty Illingworth kirsty@opulentmedia.co.uk DIRECTORS

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4615

Ken Kessler

is unimpressed by the 21st century and enjoys retro, if costly, boys’ toys, such as cameras, mechanical watches and fountain pens – of late, he is obsessed with Italian red wine. He has written four books on luxury hi-fi equipment and collects chronographs and film noir DVDs.

Nick Savage

With thanks to:

Nick will try any dish once, whether it’s tarantula stew in Cambodia, muskox Thai green curry in Greenland or mopane worms in Zimbabwe. As a food and travel journalist, he has travelled the world, but his favourite place to eat will always be London.

Tim Barber James Buttery Alex Doak Chris Hall Justin Hast Ming Liu Tracey Llewellyn Ben Winstanleyglass of Bolly in-hand.

George Parker george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4616 ACCOUNT MANAGER

Themba Wirz themba@opulentmedia.co.uk 0208 057 1140 OT MAGAZINE is published monthly by Opulent Media 020 7871 4615

Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

ORACLE TIME #68

CONTENTS

OT M AG A ZIN E / ISSU E 68

42 — GLASSHÜTTE

20 — AFICIONADO

We reveal what’s on our radar and what should be on your shopping list this month

The German horologists pay homage to the finest watchmaker you’ve never heard of

28 — NEWS

A round-up of the latest happenings in luxury living and, of course, the best in horology

36 — FACETIME

Watch collections of the rich and famous – this issue it’s Timothée Chalamet

38 — THE ORACLE SPEAKS

An essential guide on how to change your watch strap

“They’ve built some of the coolest retro pieces to hit the current throwback zeitgeist” Glashütte — p42

ORACLE TIME #68

CONTENTS

49 — TOP 10 DREAM RE-ISSUES

Our selection of pundits share the watches they’d love to see make a comeback

59 — GEORGES KERN

The influential watchmaker looks to the past for future inspiration

64 — STYLE SHOOT The best and most effortlessly 70s timepieces

78 — TIMELESS TIMEPIECES

Watches from the heyday of horology never go out of style

83 — PREP REVIVAL

An economic crash means it’s the return of the dandy 2.0 108

95 — STYLE EDIT

The must-have items you need to complete the prep revival look

108 — ITALIAN EXOTICS

Spearheading an aesthetic movement, Italian supercars in the 80s were a class apart

121 — WATCH REVIEWS

The OT take on models from Seiko and Farer 83

128 — RETRO TECH

The best analogue style tech for the digital age

CULTURE

135 — MOURAZ MAZOUZ INTERVIEW The restauranteur discusses his latest London offering

“This was a true Italian muscle car and you can almost smell the cologne just from looking at it”

135

83 135

Style Food & Drink

_________________________________ ________

Italian Exotics — p108

117

142 — AUCTIONS What’s going under the hammer this month?

155 – MICROBRAND CORNER What’s new in the world of the small-scale?

160 – MOVIE WATCH

The pitch perfect noir and timepieces of LA Confidential

FRONT â&#x20AC;&#x201D; aficionado

edited by: KIRSTY ILLINGWORTH

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

FRONT — aficionado

STREAMLINER BLUES

With the success of the H. Moser’s Streamliner Flyback Chronograph released earlier this year, H. Moser has unveiled a follow-up, replacing the Matrix Green with a Funky Blue fumé dial. With a 42.3mm case that puts most other sports luxe timepieces to shame, the 70s-inspired watch is a cool new addition to what’s fast becoming Moser’s most exceptional timepiece to date. And that’s saying something. $43,900, www.h-moser.com

FRONT — aficionado

THE MOST POWERFUL CONVERTIBLE IN FERRARI HISTORY

Summer may be well and truly over, but we’re looking forward to the warmer weather with Ferrari’s first full series production drop-top hybrid, the SF90 Spider. The Spider closely mirrors the SF90 Stradale; with the combination of a twin-turbo 3.99-litre V8 engine and an electric motor grouping, it generates a combined 986 horsepower, and a 0-62pmh sprint of 2.5 seconds. A burst of Italian adrenaline if ever we needed it. And we do. €473,000, www.ferrari.com

THE NEW TOTEM GT ELECTRIC

Combining passion for historic Italian cars and innovation, Totem Automobili reveals a restomod take on the all-time classic Alfa Romeo Giulia GTA. Maintaining 10% of the original chassis with new, full aluminium suspensions, the car is packed with 518 electric horsepower, reaching a top speed of 152mph and 62mph in a sprint of 3.4s. It even has a practical 224-mile range. Inside it’s been redesigned with all the mod cons, but from the outside is as timeless as ever. There will only be 20 units produced, and each one will be €430,000 (approx. £385,000), www.totemautomobili.com

FRONT — aficionado

THE ULTIMATE DUET

If you’re looking at buying a private jet, you may as well buy the matching Porsche to go with it, right? Well, Embraer have teamed up with the famed German marque to create Duet, a limited edition collaboration. The package pairs an Embraer Phenom 300E with a Porsche 911 Turbo S, both with a matching paint job of silver and grey with hand-painted pinstripes in Brilliant Chrome and Speed Blue. Only 10 pairs are available and it’s expected to have a starting price of $10.9 million. This is the twinset we never knew we needed. Starting from $10.9 million, www.embraer.com

FRONT — aficionado

NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA BAT-CLOCK

Calling all DC lovers and collectors: you can now have your very own Batmobile! Granted, it’s a 12 inch-long desk clock, but who wouldn’t want one? Independent designers Kross Studio have revealed its Batman collectable in collaboration with Warner Bros, paying tribute to the 1989 Tim Burton classic, offering a, sleek design and its own powerful engine - an in-house mechanical, 512-part manualwind movement with a 30-day power reserve. Our favourite part? A Batman-shaped key to wind the clock and set the time. The only downside? A limited edition of 100 pieces. $29,900, www.kross-studio.ch/en/

FRONT — aficionado

IT’S ALL BLACK AND WHITE

There’s something uniquely fascinating about black and white photography, and with the latest member of the Leica Monochrom family you’ll understand why. The Q2 is the world’s first full-frame digital compact camera featuring a dedicated monochrome sensor. With its 47.3 megapixel resolution, exceedingly sharp and fast Summilux 28 f/1.7 ASPH lens, precise autofocus and crisp OLED viewfinder, this is definitely a camera worth investing in. £4,995, store.leica-camera.com

FRONT — aficionado

LOVE VINYL? LOVE TURNTABLE

So you found your old records during your lockdown clean out, but your record player’s long since given up the ghost. Well, the LOVE Turntable has you covered. The best of both worlds, this nifty little number reads any size vinyl records with a traditional stylus, connects to Bluetooth & Wi-Fi, and can be controlled using an app. Simply pop the device on your vinyl, connect the app and you’re good to go. As simple as that. $329, for 1 LOVE Turntable, and 2 bases in your choice of colours, loveturntable.com

TEN YEARS OF AVENTUS

Top notes: Apple, blackcurrant, pineapple and bergamot

To mark 10 years of the iconic Aventus fragrance, a collectable limited-edition design has launched, celebrating one of the most successful fragrances in Creed’s history. The anniversary edition offers a throwback design with the historic ribbon logo reflecting the brand’s tailoring roots. Embossed with bespoke silver, this is an ideal gift for the Aventus man. Or for yourself.

Heart notes: juniper berries, birch, patchouli and jasmine   Base notes: vanilla, must, oakmoss and ambergris

£280, www. creedfragrances.co.uk

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS

OPEN HOUSE AT JAEGER-LECOULTRE For the first time ever, the esteemed watchmaker behind the iconic Reverso, Polaris and plenty more are opening the doors of their Vallée de Joux facility to the public, and not just as your standard horological tourist trap. Dubbed “Atelier d’Antoine” after the maison’s founder, the bespoke experiences range from simple tours of the manufacturer to masterclasses and

workshops from the watchmakers themselves. The first of these will be ‘The Sound Maker’, running from why a watch ticks all the way up to the intricacies of chiming complications. This is a pretty rarefied experience, so if you’re interested you’ll need to pre-register at online-booking.jaegerlecoultre.com. The price is structured on a case by case basis, so don’t expect it to be cheap.

The experiences range from tours of the manufacturer to masterclasses and workshops 28

FRONT — world news

STEFANO RICCI ENTERS THE WATCH WORLD Florence has an impressive watchmaking history with the likes of Panerai hailing from the pretty Italian city. Now it’s the turn of luxury lifestyle brand Stefano Ricci who are throwing their hat into the horological ring in a big way with the Octagon collection.

It’s safe to say they’re unique. Just not that subtle

As the name suggest, the eight-sided shape makes up the Octagon’s striking silhouette, though don’t start thinking ‘Italian’ and ‘Octagon’ and coming to the conclusion that this is just a Bvlgari rip-off. Stefano Ricci’s take is bigger, bolder and comprised of some impressive complications, including a solid chronograph and annual and perpetual calendars. Combined with their bold, oversized, industrial cases and hinged casebacks, it’s safe to say that they’re certainly unique. Just not that subtle. stefanoricci.com

TURNBULL, ASSER & BOND The latest instalment in the franchise may be on hold for now, but that hasn’t stopped the refined gentlemen at Turnbull & Asser paying homage to 007’s various appearances over the years with their newly expanded James Bond collection. The brand’s longstanding partnership with the films starts all the way back with Dr. No, and each piece in the collection is a tribute to superspy style from a specific release, such as the shirt worn by the late, great Sean Connery in the debut big screen Bond appearance (£225) or the one made for Pierce Brosnan in the oft-maligned Die Another Day (£350). Complete with a handful of ties from £120, the new collection is a fittingly British stylistic tribute to the least secret agent in the world. turnbullandasser.co.uk

ELON MUSK LAUNCHES A TEQUILA Between selling flamethrowers and firing one of his cars into space, Tesla CEO Elon Musk knows how to take a joke too far. Thus we have Tesla Tequila, the culmination of an April Fools’ joke from 2018 where

Expect “dry fruit and light vanilla nose with a cinnamon pepper finish” for your $250 29

Musk feigned drunken bankruptcy – and obviously it comes in a bottle shaped like a lightning bolt. Set into a stand to keep the thing upright, Tesla Tequila is very much placing itself at the premium end of the market, and not just for its modern art vessel. Produced by Nosotros Tequila (at least until Musk diversifies his portfolio further), expect “dry fruit and light vanilla nose with a balanced cinnamon pepper finish” for your $250. shop.tesla.com

FRONT — world news

BBEYOND GIFTING As of writing, heading to Bond Street for a spot of Christmas shopping isn’t really on the agenda and we don’t have our fingers crossed that by the time you’re reading this things will have changed. Either way, having someone take care of the jewellery buying is always a good idea. Enter Kimjoux and their new BBeyond gifting service. Under the auspices of Hanoian native, Trang Do, who cut her bejewelled teeth at the likes of Cartier and Graff, this is more than just personal shopping from afar. Kimjoux will include bespoke greetings cards, samples and whatever else you need to elevate a simple gift to an experience, whether that’s for the upcoming festive season or beyond. kimjoux.com

Kimjoux will include bespoke greetings cards, samples and whatever else you need to elevate a simple gift to an experience

TIGER OF SWEDEN PLANTS ITS FLAGSHIP IN MARYLEBONE Originally founded across the North Sea in 1903, Stockholm tailoring label Tiger of Sweden has just opened its new flagship outpost in the capital. Splashed with yellow and blue accents (so far, so Swedish), you’ll find relaxed suiting and separates, mixed up with fuzzy knits, calf-skimming coats and fjord-beating boots. Set a course for Marylebone High Street ASAP. Tiger of Sweden, 86 Marylebone High Street, W1U 4QT. tigerofsweden.com

You’ll find relaxed suiting and separates, mixed up with fuzzy knits, calf-skimming coats and fjord-beating boots 30

FRONT — world news

Paris’s Avenue George V is already about as prestigious as a luxury shopping street can get, but as of this month it’s getting an artistic angle courtesy of international contemporary art specialists Opera Gallery and lauded sculptor Manolo Valdés. For the first time Valdés’s monumental sculptures will be displayed publicly, lining the famous avenue and adorning the palaces and high-end boutiques from one end to the other. If you’ve ever wondered why he’s considered one of the greatest living artists, then you can find out with a quick visit to Louis Vuitton, Lacoste or the Four Seasons. If you can’t get to Paris, which seems rather likely these days, you can also take a virtual tour of the outdoor exhibition at www.operagallery.com. Otherwise, you have until January 15th to explore the installations to your heart’s content. operagallery.com

OPERA GALLERY TAKES PARIS

Valdés’s monumental sculptures will be displayed publicly, lining the famous avenue from one end to the other

GUESS T H E WATCH The most adventurous watch of them all, last issue’s blacked-out mystery timepiece was, of course, the Breitling Emergency, with its inbuilt transponder. If you crashland on a deserted island, it’s the horological black box you want on your wrist.

This issue, with so many re-issues around and many more likely in the pipeline, we’ve blacked out one of the most faithful in recent years. While this particular version is a millimetre-perfect re-creation, it’s proved a versatile platform for some cool limited editions ranging from stealthy to manga-inspired. So… what is it? What is the watch? CHECK BACK NEXT ISSUE FOR THE ANSWER

what is the

WATCH

FRONT — awards

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève And the Winner Is... Last month the greatest awards of the horological year, the Oscars of watchmaking, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève announced the winners of its various esteemed categories, setting in stone (or as close to, anyway) the objectively best watches of 2020. Granted, there’s always some debate over whether or not they got it right (or more usually how wrong they got it) but there’s still plenty of kudos to the winners of the 18 winning models and for once it’s hard to debate that any of these timepieces don’t deserve their place in the spotlight. So, let’s take a look at some of the winners.

MEN’S:

VOUTILAINEN 28SC

MEN’S COMPLICATION:

This category is reserved for simple, time-only men’s watches, the types of pieces where the fine details matter most. Guilloche maestro Kari Voutilainen is therefore a fitting recipient. In the case of the 28SC, he pairs that impeccable finishing with an energy-efficient, slow-beating Vingt-8 movement, making it the first watch carrying the movement to feature a central seconds hand.

I was one of the first people to ever get hands-on with this timepiece and I can say with full surety, it’s phenomenal. Taking two watchmakers upwards of 3,000 hours to build, a ridiculous proportion of the parts are made entirely by hand, right down to the screws – which the watchmakers in question evidently have a little loose.

Greubel Forsey Handmade 1

“AIGUILLE D’OR” GRAND PRIX:

PETIT AIGUILLE:

PIAGET ALTIPLANO ULTIMATE CONCEPT

The gold medal goes to, as many of us kind of expected, Piaget, with their incredible realisation of their 2018 ultra-thin masterpiece. If anyone thought the Swiss slimline specialists had lost their knack in the wake of Bulgari’s record breakers, never again. Impossibly thin yet still visually architectural, the Altiplano Ultimate takes ultra-thin watchmaking about as far as it can go. For now, at least.

—

OTH ER

LADIES’: Bovet 1822 Miss Audrey LADIES’ COMPLICATION: Charles Girardier Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse fleur de sel ICONIC: Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph CHRONOMETRY: Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE.2 CALENDAR AND ASTRONOMY: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual

WIN N ERS

Breitling Super Ocean Heritage ‘57 limited edition II

CHALLENGE:

The Petit Aiguille is essentially the people’s choice award and there are very few watches that please everyone. Breitling’s winning watch is one. Who didn’t go crazy for this funky, surf-inspired Superocean? Between the colourful indexes and concave case sides, it’s quirky, colourful and, unfortunately, sold out in both the initial, black-dialled run and the follow-up blue.

The navy blue edition of Tudor’s throwback heritage model, the Black Bay FiftyEight is a masterclass in understated retro chic, straight out of the 1950s. Complete with the big crown and snowflake hand, it’s every inch the archival Tudor, channelling the zeitgeist of vintage heritage pieces. It probably has the longest wait list here, too.

—

Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton MECHANICAL EXCEPTION: Bovet 1822 Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter 2 CHRONOGRAPH: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic DIVER: Breitling Superocean Automatic 48 Boutique Edition JEWELLERY: Van Cleef & Arpels Frivole Secrète watch

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight

ARTISTIC CRAFTS: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Soleil Féerique INNOVATION: Parmigiani Fleurier Hijri Perpetual Calendar AUDACITY: H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F HOROLOGICAL REVELATION: Petermann Bédat Dead beat second

For more on the winners and the GPHG, visit www.gphg.org

FRONT — introducing

NEWS

INTRO DUCING

IN DETAIL

44.8mm platinum case • Calibre GS 36-750 PS IRM manual-wind movement with 72-hour power reserve • £ £1,055,000, www.patek.com •

PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 6301P Grand Sonnerie

Is there any complication more esteemed than the pinnacle of chimes, the Grand Sonnerie? The complication, which strikes automatically on the hour and quarter hour, makes a tourbillon look as commonplace as a small seconds counter. So what about if, say, a watchmaker as prestigious as Patek Philippe takes it on? Well, then you get the new Ref. 6301P. Collectors, get ready to swoon.

FRONT — introducing

IN DETAIL

46mm titanium case with 100m water resistance • Calibre 2824/2 automatic movement with 36-hour power reserve • €34,200, limited to 40, ressencewatches.com •

RESSENCE Type 5X

For the second piece in Ressence’s suite of four 10th anniversary watches, the ingenious Belgian brand has turned to Eugenio Amos, the man who founded, Automobili Amos, a passion project that rebuilds Lancia Delta Integrales as Delta Futuristas. The collaboration, a 40-piece run of the Type 5, features an oil temperature gauge, hydraulic shock absorbing system and is completely crownless.

SINGER

Reimagined Flytrack

Finally, after three years of silence the Genevan watchmaker, based on the exploits of a Californian Porsche 911 restorer, has released a follow-up to their seminal Track 1 Chronograph: the Singer Reimagined Flytrack. Yes, that’s Flytrack with a ‘tr,’ though the similarity with another watchmaking term is very intentional.

SEIKO

Prospex LX ‘Skyline’

Seiko’s Prospex LX collection is a curious thing, it sits in the middle ground between true Prospex, which has traditionally offered some of the best bang for your buck in entry level watches anywhere, and Grand Seiko. In this instance, that middle ground leaves the stratosphere with the spacewalkinspired ‘Skyline’.

IN DETAIL

44.8mm titanium case with 100m water resistance • Seiko Spring Drive 5R66 automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve • £4,760, limited to 400, seikoboutique.co.uk •

IN DETAIL

43mm titanium case with 100m water resistance • Calibre Singer AGH6364 manual-wind movement with 42-hour power reserve • CHF 26,500, limited to 10 pieces, singerreimagined.com •

FRONT — introducing

URWERK UR-100V Iron

Given their stark industrial style and cases dredged from some kind of military production line, you’d be forgiven for assuming no human hand has ever touched an Urwerk, at least outside of the movement. That’s why the idiosyncratic watchmaker is going back to basics with the UR-100V Iron.

You’d be forgiven for assuming no human hand has ever touched an Urwerk, at least outside of the movement

IN DETAIL

41mm titanium and stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • Calibre UR 12.02 automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve • CHF 48,000, limited to 25, urwerk.com •

MB&F

HM3 Frog X

Given everything that’s happened in the past couple of years, a decade feels like a lifetime ago, a more optimistic time of yore when we could still leave the house. It was also back when MB&F was still a plucky young go-getter. Oh how times have changed. Still, the roots of what MB&F is today can be traced very cleanly back to 2010, which they’re doing with this re-issue of the HM3 Frog.

IN DETAIL

48.3mm sapphire crystal case with 30m water resistance • Three-dimensional horological engine with 48-hour power reserve • CHF 138,000, limited to 10 in each colour, mbandf.com •

FRONT — facetime

NO.

FA C E T I M E The watch collections of the rich and famous revealed

IF WE HERE AT ORACLE TIME ever needed to be reminded that we’re all getting older, the ascendency of 25-year-old Timothée Chalamet will just about do it. Since cutting his globally-recognised teeth in Homeland back in 2012, the New Yorker has become the latest obsession of many, especially since his 2017 star-making turn alongside Armie Hammer in Luca Guadagnino’s Call Me By Your Name, which made him the third-youngest nominee for best actor in Oscars history. Since then he’s tackled a raft of other coming-of-age stories, period pieces and thought-provoking plays, with plenty more to come – including the upcoming Denis Villeneuve remake of Dune, which has a tentative 2021 release date and is something that we are more than a little excited about. More than a lot excited about, in fact. That’s if Covid-19 doesn’t push it back too far, of course. While Chalamet’s style chops are obvious – he’s snapped pretty much every time he walks out the house – and his outfits don’t often include watches front and centre, he has been spotted with some serious wrist candy when it counts. And no, we don’t just mean the funky digital Casio worn by Elio Perlman in Call Me By Your Name. Back in 2018 Chalamet hit the Oscars hard for his almostwin with an all-black look paired with a complete icon, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Duoface Small Second. It’s a watch he seems quite attached to, given it also made an appearance at the BAFTAs, which makes sense; if you favour monochrome as much as Chalamet, why not opt for a watch that can be changed to suit all-black or all-white? Earlier this year (before the world ended) he also took to the red carpet with a classic, namely a Rolex Day-Date in Rose Gold, if his ecstatic tweeting is anything to go by: “ROSE GOLD PRESIDENTIAL ON MY BONY WRIST.” While we didn’t get to see it on his wrist, it’s nice to know that he’s as into his Rolex as we are. If Chalamet is a rising star then god only knows where he’ll end up in the future. One thing’s for sure though, he’s going to continue being a style icon and, if his watch choices so far are anything to go by, an enduring one. Now if only they had mechanical watches on Arakis…

Timothée Chalamet Actor and eye candy

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic was the favoured choice for the Little Women star at the 2018 Oscars

FRONT — ask the oracle

THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained

• Step 1: thread the long piece (which has the holes made for the buckle) through the lug-and-bar combo on one side. • Step 2: run it underneath the watch and then up and over the bar the other side. • Step 3: put the long end through the metal keeper on the shorter end. All done. To remove the strap, it’s even easier. Just take the long end back out from the keeper and gently pull it back through the lugs. It’s a simple yet effective type of strap, designed to make sure that if one spring bar fails, the watch doesn’t fall off your wrist. Nifty, right?

[CHANGING A TWO-PIECE STRAP]

[Changing a Watch Strap]

It’s impossible to overstate the importance of a watch strap. It goes well beyond just keeping the thing attached to your wrist; it’s a design statement in and of itself, whether that be a board meeting ready piece of classical, well-polished black leather or a rainbowstriped canvas NATO number fit for a rave. Whatever, we don’t judge. Just because your timepiece of choice comes with a specific strap, doesn’t mean that you’re stuck with it forever, either. Otherwise we’d all be wearing faux alligator in exciting shades of black, blue and navy blue. The only issue is that changing your strap can be a touch intimidating if you’ve never done it before. It’s not that it’s hard, it’s just that if you don’t know what you’re doing then it’s easy to go wrong, which can lead to the watchmaker’s seemingly endless curse of misplaced springbars hidden in every far-flung corner of the house. First, let’s put integrated bracelets and straps to one side; their construction makes them oddly specialised and options for changing are limited anyway. So that leaves us with two main options, your standard two-piece strap or a NATO number.

[CHANGING A NATO STRAP]

NATOs (and other canvas, military-based straps) are pretty straightforward and don’t require any tools to switch on and off. Each is made of a forked piece on canvas, with one long and one short prong. Getting it on your watch is a no-brainer.

First, let me introduce you to the spring bar tool. It looks a little like a small screwdriver with a flat point and a fork on the other end, usually with plenty of grip for working on small objects, which spring bars themselves most certainly are. The end you use depends on the type of lugs you’re working with, i.e. whether they are drilled or not. Most modern watches aren’t drilled; a good number of retro utilitarian watches are. The process is relatively similar between the two, except for the first step. • Step 1 (drilled lugs): use the pointed end of the springbar tool to push the springbar through the lug until it eases out of the lugs. • Step 1 (standard lugs): carefully insert the forked end of the springbar tool between the edge of the strap and the lug, catching the fork on the outer lip of the spring bar. One you have a secure grip on it, push the spring down until the bar releases from the lug. • Step 2: carefully ease the spring bar out of the lugs with your fingers, keeping a firm grip to stop it pinging off into the abyss. • Step 3: remove the spring bar completely from the strap and put to one side, ideally where it won’t roll off the table. • Step 4: repeat on the other half of the strap.

[ATTACHING A TWO-PIECE STRAP]

Attaching a strap again is the same for both types of lug and is, intuitively, the reverse of taking it off. Slot one end of the spring bar into one of the lugs, then gently use the fork tool to push the spring bar down. Once it’s pushed back, you can line up the spring bar until it pings into place in the opposite lug. This part generally runs more of a risk of the spring bar flying out, so stay vigilant. Give the spring bar a wobble, just to check it’s properly in and then you’re good to go, shiny new strap in place.

FRONT — ask the oracle

Attaching a strap again is the same for both types of lug and is, intuitively, the reverse of taking it off

The spring bar is for changing a two-piece strap and the end you use depends on the type of lugs you’re working with

TIPS: • Slowly apply and remove pressure on the spring bar to make sure it doesn’t launch itself across the room • Have spares on hand at all times • Slow and steady wins the race – and stops unnecessary scratches • If possible, keep the spring bars in your spare straps; it makes life easier if you want to switch back • Keep at it; Once you’ve done it a handful of times it’ll be second nature; just don’t be surprised if you find yourself changing straps every other day

FRONT — ask the oracle

THE TOOLS FOR THE JOB • Paulin Watch Tool Kit This nifty little set from Scottish watch brand Paulin has three interchangeable heads: a strap tool, a buckle tool and a screwdriver. It’s good-looking, nicely presented in sustainable Portuguese cork and perfect for travelling with if you happen to get that obsessive about your straps. £12, paulinwatches.com

• Bergeon 6111 Spring Bar Tool This is something you’ll likely see dotted around any horological workshop. The Swiss-made tool has reversible points for different functions, making it surprisingly versatile, while the knurled finish ensures a solid grip. It’s a watchmaking basic and a necessity in any collectors’ tool box. £50, watchgecko.com

• Hodinkee Silver Spring Bar Plier This isn’t your classic, doubleended spring bar tool, not by a long shot. It takes out some of the hassle by depressing both ends of the bar at the same time, allowing you to take it out in one swift movement. It’s adjustable to the lug width too. It doesn’t have the poker for drilled lugs, but then it doesn’t need it either. It is pricey though. $199, shop.hodinkee.com

FRONT â&#x20AC;&#x201D; historical horology

FRONT — historical horology

WORDS:

SAM KESSLER

HISTORY IN THE WATCHMAKING GERMAN HOROLOGISTS GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL PAY HOMAGE TO THE FINEST WATCHMAKER YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF

FRONT — historical horology

There are two things that every would-be watch expert knows about the not-so-humble tourbillon. Firstly, they’ll sagely explain that the mechanism offsets the effects of gravity on a watch movement. Secondly, when pressed for something more, they’ll hazard that it was invented by Swiss watchmaker to the French court, Abraham Louis Breguet. If they’re confident, they may even cite 1795 as the date it was created. Now, even setting aside the issue that those facts are often disputed among watchmakers and die-hard horological historians (nothing I’m going to get into now), Breguet – and by extension Swiss watchmaking – get all the credit. He’s synonymous with anything that revolves a balance. Not to do the man a disservice, but just as not every industrial sports luxe timepiece was designed by Gerald Genta, not all tourbillons are by Breuget. Or are even Swiss.

In fact, using that same idea of bringing past and present together, they’ve built some of the coolest retro pieces to hit the current throwback zeitgeist

Take the flying tourbillon for example. It’s one of the more refined takes on the idea, where the tourbillon cage is only suspended from below so that it appears to be floating in the movement. It doesn’t matter a jot on the workings of the movement, but it does make it look a lot more impressive. It was also invented in 1920, by a German: Herr Alfred Helwig who, of course, hailed from the painfully pretty watchmaking region of Glashütte. It’s a name that you might not have come across before, which is a bit of a travesty. He wasn’t just an innovative watchmaker but a teacher, too, one whose technical books are still used in training today. Indeed, it was a partnership between him and his students that led to the original Flying Tourbillon. A century on and the Helwig’s legacy is alive and well in the aptly-named Glashütte Original. Arguably the most traditional manufacturer in the town (which counts the likes of A. Lange & Sohne among its residents), Glashütte Original very directly traces its designs and methodology back to the likes of Julius Assmann, Herrmann Goertz and, of course, Helwig. They’ve made that especially clear this year with a phenomenal tribute to the first centennial of the flying tourbillon: the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 Limited Edition timepiece. The Helwig Tourbillon is about as classical as a watch can get. The solid gold dial has been lavishly handfinished with a fine layer of silver with elegant gold

The classic styling of the Helwig Tourbillon includes a solid gold dial that has been lavishly hand-finished with a fine layer of silver with elegant gold baton indexes

FRONT — historical horology

•

Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 Limited Edition • 40mm rose gold case with 30m water resistance •

54-01 manual-wind flying tourbillon movement with 100-hour power reserve • £106,300, limited to 25 pieces, www.glashuette-original.com

FRONT — historical horology

The flying tourbillon cage (below, left) is designed to give the appearance of floating in the movement and was invented in 1920 by Alfred Helwig, who hailed from watchmaking region of Glashütte

It doesn’t matter whether it’s the 1920s, the 1970s or anywhere in-between, as long as it’s authentic to the roots of German watchmaking past and present baton indexes, interrupted by nothing but a subdial complete with a thermally blued hand. Even the fluted crown is pure classicism, beyond the realm of vintage and well into antiques. Yet there’s one thing very obviously missing from the dial: the tourbillon. Pretty much every watch that makes a big deal about the complication puts it front and centre, showing clearly on the most visible part of the dial. Here though, it’s hidden around the back. The reason is authenticity; it’s not just the style that harks back to 1920, but the layout, too. On the back, along with the elements typical of Glashütte watchmaking – namely the three-quarter plate and dust-collecting Glashütte stripes – is the tourbillon.

This is where Helwig would have placed it, back when tourbillons were more about accuracy and reliability than pomp and prestige. All in all, the Tourbillon 1920 lives up to its name as a faithful homage to Alfred Helwig’s work, though there have been some improvements in the past century. For one, the barrel now guarantees a power reserve of 100 hours and the parts are able to be produced with more consistency and precision than in the past. In short, the movement’s authentic in taste, contemporary in execution. So far, so old school; but in recent years Glashütte has expanded beyond the kind of pure traditional style the Helwig Tourbillon exemplifies. In fact, using that same idea of bringing past and present together, they’ve built some of the coolest retro pieces to hit the current throwback zeitgeist in the form of the Spezialist SeaQ collection. Based on an archival design from the late 60s and early 70s, when it came out last year the SeaQ was a surprise. A good one, for sure, but unexpected all the same. It was a return for the brand to the world of diving watches and, more than that, was incredibly cool, and in a far more wearable way than the brand’s funky Sixties editions. It was a practical, versatile watch that since has had a few necessary additions to the collection, including our cover star for this issue, the SeaQ Panorama Date. The watch comes in a number of variations, whether that’s with the Galvanic blue dial of our cover star or the bi-colour versions that typify 70s style. Both versions house the Calibre 39-11, which is a far more practical movement than a flying tourbillon, but no less typical of the region’s watchmaking, again with the three-quarter plate and Glashütte stripes throughout. In fact, it’s as authentically German, if not as traditional, as the Helwig limited edition. It just goes about it in a different way. In short, it doesn’t matter whether it’s the 1920s, the 1970s or anywhere in-between, as long as it’s authentic to the roots of German watchmaking past and present, it has a place in Glashütte Original’s collection. In the race between watchmakers to plumb the depths of their archives, it looks like GO has one major advantage; they have the entire history of Saxon watchmaking to draw from.

FRONT — historical horology

• • •

SeaQ Panorama Date

43.2mm case in stainless steel, rose gold or bi-colour with 300m water resistance

Calibre 36-13 automatic movement with 100-hour power reserve • From £9,800, www.glashuette-original.com

10 OP THE T

BE D L U SHO

D E U S WA S I REHAT T S E TCH

RE-ISSUES are becoming a bit of a staple of the yearly release slate at the present time. With retro the word of the moment and 70s watches back in as big a way as flares and neon, many a big brand has been plumbing the depths of their old catalogues, from Zenith’s faithful (and apparently very versatile) Chronomaster Revival to Breitling’s incredibly fun Superocean Heritage ’57 to the constant stream of throwback Seikos and heritage Longines. Yet despite their best efforts, most longstanding watchmakers have only scratched the surface of their archives. With decades of untapped designs squirrelled away in dusty corners, there are plenty more re-issues ready to see the light of day once again. Rather than predicting what those various revival pieces will be however, we opted instead to ask some of the more knowledgeable of watch industry pundits for their opinions – not on what will be re-issued, but what should be.

FRONT — dream re-issues

VACHERON CONSTANTIN 222

Chosen by James Buttery, Watch and Luxury Journalist and Ming Liu, Watch and Luxury Journalist JAMES: “Given the number of new stainless steel integrated bracelet watches we’ve seen in the past couple of years it beggars belief that Vacheron Constantin hasn’t dusted off Jorg Hysek’s 1977 classic, designed to mark the brand’s 222nd anniversary. Of course, now it would no doubt serve to distract potential overseas customers. While the 222 has an enthusiastic following it’s never achieved the level of frenzy surrounding the Nautilus or the Royal Oak, but it’s the low-key charm of that broad plateau of a case, its crenulated bezel and Maltese Cross plaque that makes me want it more.”

Likelihood

MING: “Two of the three so-called Holy Trinity watches that gave birth to the sport luxe genre in the 1970s – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus and Vacheron Constantin 222 – are already among the most coveted watches today, so the 222 would no doubt be a winner if it were re-issued. Just look at its performance at auction: last month a gold Jumbo 222 sold for CHF 78,120 (approx. £64,000), more than double its estimate. Enough said.”

Vacheron have dabbled in re-issues and the heat this number’s getting at auction means it could well be their next, unless they opt for an archival deep cut

FRONT — dream re-issues

SEIKO 6139 ‘POGUE’

Chosen by Sam Kessler, Editor of Oracle Time “The Pogue has all the right stuff. It was the first automatic watch worn in space (1973 on the wrist of Colonel Pogue), it was Seiko’s first automatic chronograph and like all of the nicknamed Seikos, it’s damn cool. Yellow dial and pepsi-cola bezel? Sign me up. If the world was fair and just, it would be nestled alongside the modern versions of the Samurai, Tuna Can and Turtle. If only it wasn’t the second most important thing Seiko did that year… there’s a reason the ‘Pogue’ was launched just the right side of the quartz crisis.”

Likelihood

5/10

LIKELIHOOD: Seiko missed the chance to re-release on the Pogue’s 50th anniversary last year but there’s always hope; they release enough watches each year

Likelihood

LEMANIA ROYAL NAVY AND RAF CHRONOGRAPHS Chosen by Ken Kessler, Watch Journalist and Editor

“For decades, I’ve tried to figure out what makes a watch brand re-issue a specific model, anniversaries aside. Thus it baffles me why Breguet – which absorbed the company – hasn’t exploited the love for Lemania military watches and re-released the RAF and Royal Navy chronographs. There are a many variants (black dials, the rare white dials, single- and two-button versions, symmetrical and asymmetrical cases), but the two seen here are the most familiar. Used prices? £2,500-£8,000!”

0/10

LIKELIHOOD: There may be a Breguet with the same vibe but seeing the Lemania name on the dial? Never

FRONT — dream re-issues

Likelihood

IWC INGENIEUR JUMBO 1976

Chosen by Justin Hast, Content Consultant “We know he did the Royal Oak and Nautilus, but few appreciate that Mr Genta was also behind the IWC Ingénieur of the 1970s. The great man helped IWC launch its third generation of the Ingénieur in 1976, perfectly delivering on the strategy of creating a complete ‘steel line’ (SL). The gorgeous multi-part 40mm case in a Tonneau shape with a round bezel, guilloché dial, integrated bracelet and self-winding calibre 8541B is a ripper! And to cap it off, like all horological classics, when the SL Jumbo debuted it sold less than 600 in its first year making it a resounding failure - it sure wouldn’t be if IWC launched it now!”

6/10

LIKELIHOOD: IWC hasn’t been focusing on the Ingenieur much recently, meaning a retro version is certainly long overdue

FRONT — dream re-issues

BREITLING SPRINT 2212

Chosen by Tom Pettit, Managing Editor of Oracle Time “Overshadowed by the Top Time thanks to its James Bond Thunderball cameo, the Sprint 2212 is the dark horse in Breitling’s re-issue stable. Featuring orange baton hands, a unique Tonneau case shape and of course, the blue ‘surfboard’ sub-dial design, the style encapsulates the late 60s vibe perfectly. It’s not all superficial either, inside beats a solid Valjoux 7733 manual wind movement which is housed in a proper steel case (unlike later versions which use a plasticky fibreglass). I’d say a faithful re-issue could do really well… and not just because I own an original!”

Likelihood

9/10

LIKELIHOOD: Word from the horses mouth is that Breitling has five or so re-issues still waiting in the wings. Given this is the tangential precursor to their new Endurance Pro, it seems a very likely choice

AUDEMARS PIGUET REF 5093 ‘DISCO VOLANTE’ Chosen by Tim Barber, Watch Journalist and Editor

Likelihood

“This year’s [Re]Master01 chronograph was an impeccably-executed

2/10

throwback to the pre-Royal Oak era at Audemars Piguet, and I’d love them to follow it up with a version of the Disco Volante. It’s the absolute apogee of 1950s fine watchmaking: ultra-thin, exquisitely minimalistic in its way, but with a wealth of magnificently stylish detail, especially the sublime versions with an engine-turned bezel and two-tone dial. Unfortunately AP doesn’t seem to make a hand-wound, non-complication movement anymore – but given Calibre 2003 which powered the Disco Volante was in production from the 1940s to the early 2000s, perhaps they could dust it off just for me...”

LIKELIHOOD: There’s a glimmer of hope after the [Re]Master01 but in our opinion it’s a little too out there to be likely

FRONT — dream re-issues

TAG HEUER MONACO SIXTY NINE

Chosen by Alex Doak, Watch and Luxury Journalist “Are such recent models permitted among the venerable old guard gathered here? Don’t care, I’m calling it, and only partly because of my fond memories starting out on nowdefunct QP Magazine at the tender age of 23. The Sixty Nine was the cover star of issue 4, whose fifth silver colour was mistakenly printed on top of the C, M, Y and K – not my fault (honest!) and actually, unwittingly, pretty cool looking. Anyway, re-issue it now, TAG Heuer! But, with a mechanical Monaco one side and a Connected Monaco on the flip side instead of the digital Microtimer of the 2003 original. The ‘Reverso’ the high-end smartwatch market is crying out for, surely? No? Well you’re all wrong.”

Likelihood

3/10

LIKELIHOOD: The Connected is doing well enough for TAG that they don’t need another snazzy smartwatch, no matter how painfully cool it would be

Likelihood

LONGINES COMET

Tracey Llewellyn, Editor of Telegraph Time “The Comet could not be more 1970s if it came dressed up in flares and cheesecloth, blasting out The Theme From Shaft. With a fantastical, roundedsquare case, it houses a primary-coloured, ‘bull’s eye’, mystery dial that shows the hours via an arrow rotating on a disc, while a moving dot marks the minutes on an outer ring. “Although it will never be everyone’s cup of Blue Nun, as a piece of pure horological magic, nothing can beat it and, with the prices of originals on the ascent, a limited-edition, 21st century version would be sure to find its audience.”

6/10

LIKELIHOOD: Longines heritage collection is a masterclass in archival re-issues and while it’s more the classical end, it’s about time they added something a little funkier, even if it’s also a bit pricier.

FRONT — dream re-issues

ROLEX DATO-COMPAX REF. 4727

Chosen by Chris Hall, Senior Watch Editor of MR PORTER

Likelihood

“I’d like Rolex to re-make the Dato-Compax (specifically reference 4727, if you’re reading this, M. Dufour). It could bring much-needed focus to the Cellini line, and would immediately become Rolex’s most sophisticated watch. There’s a ready-made marketing narrative in the association with celebrated skier Jean-Claude Killy, and it looks sensational. And besides, how many other top-tier watch brands only have one chronograph? Time to think beyond the Daytona.”

We won’t see a straight re-issue, but a modern re-interpretation? The argument’s there for it…

FRONT — dream re-issues

Likelihood

Tudor have won plaudits for their retro Black Bay Fifty-Eight, but tangoing with Rolex’s latest, revamped Submariners might be a bit too on the nose. Then again, the Pepsi Cola…

TUDOR OYSTER PRINCE SUBMARINER REFERENCE 7928 Chosen by Ben Winstanley, Deputy Editor of Square Mile

“Yes, Tudor. The watchmaker released its original Submariner model a year after big brother Rolex revealed the design to the world in 1953. It was a genuine alternative for those who couldn’t afford or simply didn’t want the expense of the Crown’s icon, and were prepared to make a few horological compromises in exchange. Imagine a world where we that was once again a possibility, preferably a heritage re-issue of the classic Reference 7928 (complete with square crown guards and a saw-tooth bezel), only this time with Tudor’s in-house movement capabilities.”

CULTURE â&#x20AC;&#x201D; interview

Words:

Sam Kessler

Georges Kern on Archives, Materials and the Endurance Pro THE INFLUENTIAL WATCHMAKER LOOKS TO THE PAST FOR FUTURE INSPIRATION

CULTURE — interview

Geneva Watch Days is beginning to feel a bit surreal; despite a one-bedroom flat in Wandsworth being my whole world for the last few months, I suddenly find myself in a well-appointed, parquet-floored room in the Four Seasons in Geneva. More oddly, I’m sat nursing a much-needed coffee opposite one of the most influential men in watchmaking, Mr. Georges Kern. “It was a gamble to be here”, he says of the reason we’re here. “We weren’t sure if it [Geneva Watch Days] would work out, but so far it’s been a great success.” He’s not wrong. Decentralised, free-form and generally ad-hoc, the concept allows the various brands taking part to do

their own thing. After all, they (should) know best how to present themselves. It was the brainchild of Kern et al, and whether it’s the new format of brands basically doing their own thing or the sheer thirst for getting hands-on with the watches, I’m excited to be here. But still, that’s not why I’m talking to Georges. I’m actually here for the launch of Breitling’s latest release which takes the brand into slightly uncharted territory – and a term I have to force myself to use – ‘Atheleisure’. The watch is of course the Breitling Endurance Pro, the latest addition to the specialist line that includes the famous

The case of the Endurance Pro (above) is manufactured using the Breitlight polymer, which Breitling say is 3.3 times lighter than titanium

CULTURE — interview

“We still have five or six designs that we have in reserve, waiting for the right time to launch them”

The Sprint (above) paved the way for the Endurance Pro’s genre-bending athleisure design

Emergency, albeit the casual end of the pool. What you might not realise at first glance though is what inspired it: the Breitling Sprint of yesteryear. “When I first came to Breitling I spent most of my time in their archives,” said Kern. “There was so much there to see, so much to consider. There were so many designs we wanted to bring back!” And bring back they did, with some incredibly handsome re-issues of classic Navitimers, the concave case of the Chronomat and plenty of more retro hints throughout the current collection as a whole. As for the Endurance Pro, what makes it unique isn’t necessarily its heritage – the Sprint is more like a philosophical starting point than anything else – but its material. Breitlight was launched a couple of years ago in a massive, over-the-top Hurricane and hasn’t been seen again until now. “It’s a great material but we were struggling with what to do with it. It’s bold, modern but doesn’t work on our more classic designs. But when we were thinking of the athleisure market for a rugged, everyday sports watch, it was the perfect fit.” It certainly has its own niche. Its odd texture and ultra-lightness make it the kind of composite you’d more expect from Richard Mille, tough the SuperQuartz movement is all Breitling, as are the bright straps that complete the look. For me though, I’m excited to learn more about the watchmaker’s next retro throwback; how else am I going to know which vintage Breitling to opt for? “We still have five or six designs that we have in reserve, waiting for the right time to launch them,” and I can well believe that. Though as to precisely what they are, the best I get is a shrug, smile and a “we’ll see.”

STYLE — photoshoot

1970s style. Can you dig it? Photography: TOM PETTIT & FRASER VINCENT

From bell bottom jeans and disco, to Burt Reynolds’ tache and Princess Leia’s gold bikini, through to economic struggle, cultural change and technological innovation, this was an era that was determined to leave the past in its wake. The world of chronology was also experiencing its own revolution as manufacturers encapsulated the time with a range of striking and distinctive timepieces that were undeniably and effortlessly seventies

STYLE — photoshoot

GRAND SEIKO SBGW258 RECREATION OF THE FIRST GRAND SEIKO 38mm yellow gold case with 30m water resistance 9S64 manual-wind movement with 72hour power reserve £23,500, grand-seiko.com

STYLE â&#x20AC;&#x201D; photoshoot

MOSER & CIE STREAMLINER CENTRE SECONDS 40mm stainless steel case with 120m water resistance HMC 200 automatic movement with 72hour power reserve CHF 19 900, h-moser.com

STYLE — photoshoot

ACCUTRON SPACEVIEW 43.5mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance Proprietary electrostatic movement £2,990, accutronwatch.com

STYLE — photoshoot

CHRISTOPHER WARD C65 CHRONOGRAPH 41mm stainless steel case with 150m water resistance Sellita SW510 BHa automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve £1,800, christopherward.com

OMEGA CONSTELLATION CO-AXIAL MASTER CHRONOMETER 41mm stainless steel and Sedna gold case with 50m water resistance Omega 8900 calibre automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve £7,510, omegawatches.com

STYLE — photoshoot

TAG HEUER MONACO CALIBRE HEUER 02 39mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance Calibre Heuer 02 automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve £5,250, tagheuer.com

TUDOR ROYAL 38mm stainless steel and yellow gold case with 100m water resistance Calibre T601 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve £2,490, tudorwatch.com

STYLE — photoshoot

CHOPARD ALPINE EAGLE XL CHRONO 44mm rose gold and Lucent steel case with 100m water resistance Chopard 03.05-C automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve £23,400, chopard.com

Christmas All Wrapped Up Give the gift of exceptional musical clarity this Christmas with Series 3. This elegant plug-and-play wireless speaker will fit seamlessly into your home and have you rocking around the Christmas tree with your loved ones this festive season.

Available to buy in-store at Harrods KnightsbridgeÂ andÂ Selfridges London.

FRONT — timeless

VACHERON

Fifty-Six Self-Winding Sepia Brown

THE DETAIL • 40mm rose gold case with 30m water resistance •Calibre 1326 automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve • £18,100, vacheron-constantin.com

The Fifty-Six is already one of my favourite watches. The entry-level Vacheron takes a less-is-more approach you don’t often see from that end of the market, especially the old, old guard. Now though the distinctly urbane watch has a rose-tinted new look with a lovely sepia dial. Paired with rose gold, it’s warmer than an old leather chair by a roaring fireplace – and just as in need of a cigar.

WORDS:

Sam Kessler

timeless timepieces J U S T B E C AU S E A WAT C H M A K E R h a s n ’ t r e c r e a t e d a s p e c i f i c , o b s c u r e r e fe r e n c e f r o m t h e 1 9 6 0 s d o e s n ’ t m e a n t h a t t h e i r w a t c h e s c a n ’ t h a ve a h i n t o f r e t r o – o r m o r e t h r ow b a c k a p p e a l t h a n t i e - d i e d v i ny l f a i r fo r t h a t m a t t e r. Eve n t i m e p i e c e s r e l e a s e d i n t h e l a s t d e c a d e c a n l e n d t h e m s e l ve s t o a t h r ow b a c k fe e l , wh et h e r t hat ’s n ew dial s , t h r ow b a ck d e s ig n d et ai l s or an appr e c iat ion of t h e i r ow n hor olo g i c al h e r it ag e . H e r e t h e n a r e o u r f a vo u r i t e m o d e r n , r e t r o t i m e p i e c e s r i g h t n ow, w h e t h e r i t ’s s i x t i e s d i v i n g s t y l e , a r e i m a g i n e d r a c i n g i c o n o r a d r e s s w a t c h wo r t hy o f a 1 9 5 0 s d i n n e r p a r t y.

DELMA

Continental Bi-Compax Chronograph Automatic

Delma has been killing it recently, first with the Cayman and now with the Continental, swapping the ocean depths for the open road. A racing watch at heart in the same vein as early Heuer chronographs, it sports a unique seven-link bracelet mixing brushed and polished finishes and a solid range of dials – of which our favourite is certainly the panda-esque silver with black subdial version. Bi-colour optional, but encouraged.

THE DETAIL • 42mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • SW510 calibre automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve • From £2,350, delma.ch

LONGINES

Legend Diver

The old favourite that is Longines know a thing or two about archive-inspired design, yet we’re not talking about one of their ultra-faithful re-issues here. Instead, this latest iteration of their 60s dualcrown diver has been given a very in vogue facelift with bronze, paired with a particularly lovely dark green dial. It’s not authentic - you won’t find a true 60s watch in bronze - but it’s damn goodlooking all the same.

THE DETAIL • 42mm bronze case with 300m water resistance • Calibre L888 automatic movement with 64-hour power reserve • £2,440, longines.com

FRONT — timeless

THE DETAIL • 38mm stainless steel case with 50m • ETA 7001 manualwind movement with 40-hours • £3,150, fearswatches.com

FEARS

Brunswick Salmon

While I’ve had some debate over whether this watch should be called the copper or the salmon, Fears has nailed the 50s look with their beautiful galvanicallycoated rose gold and copper dial. Combined with the ever-appealing cushion case of the Brunswick and backed by a throwback manual-wind movement, it should very rightly put the British brand on the map in a big way.

FRONT — timeless

THE DETAIL • 40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Soprod C125 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • $1,750 (approx. £1,350),

ZODIAC

zodiacwatches.com

Super Sea Wolf GMT

Late 60s design? Check. Funky, bi-colour case and bracelet? Check. Zodiac’s new version of their legendary Sea Wolf couldn’t be more retro if it was wearing bell bottoms and floral prints. Squared hands and indexes, charming proportions and with a scarcely-used, incredibly robust Soprod C125 automatic movement, there’s a lot to love here. That includes the price.

BREITLING

Superocean Heritage 57’ Outerknown

Only slightly less desirable than the pair of limited edition, rainbowindexed versions, this latest edition of Breitling’s 50s surfing cultureinspired watch at least has solid sustainability credentials. The third watch in collaboration with eco-friendly surf brand Outerknown, the lovely bronze-dialled piece is set on a matching brown ECONYL® strap. Extra kudos to the rose gold-bezelled limited edition.

THE DETAIL • 42mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Breitling Calibre 10 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £3,400 / £4,150 (limited edition), breitling.com

FRONT — timeless

TAG HEUER

Carrera Chronograph Jack Heuer Birthday Gold Limited Edition

In honour of Jack Heuer’s 88th birthday, the watchmaker is paying tribute to his favourite timepiece: the gold Heuer Carrera 1158CHNhe. It was also the watch, incidentally, that put them on the motorsport map and on the wrists of some of Ferrari’s most legendary drivers. This modern limited edition has a lot different to the original – it’s definitely not a re-issue – but its retro racing style is undeniable.

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It was the watch that put them on the motorsport map and on the wrists of some of Ferrari’s most legendary drivers

THE DETAIL • 42mm rose gold case with 100m water resistance • Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve • £15,300, tagheuer.com

SINN

R500 Limited Edition

About as old-school as a wristwatch can get, Sinn’s latest limited edition looks very much like the big trackside racing stopwatches of yesteryear on a heavyweight strap. Fortunately for anyone that’s hefted on one of those things, the construction here is entirely modern, with a full titanium case and a Valjoux movement for contemporary chronometry. It’s a cool, technical ode to high-octane racing.

THE DETAIL • 42mm titanium case with 200m water resistance • Valjoux 7750 automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve • € 3,950 (approx £3,500), sinn.de

STYLE — opener

Style 84/ prep revival 95/ Get the look with our style edit 105/ Billy Ruffian’s everyday exceptionalism

STYLE â&#x20AC;&#x201D; prep 2.0

Words: NICK CARVELL

IS THE STOCK EXCHANGE POINTING TO A PREP REVIVAL? Economic downturns have historically been followed a smart and dandy riposte

STYLE â&#x20AC;&#x201D; prep 2.0

STYLE — prep 2.0

STARTING IN 2007, the Global Financial Crisis rippled out from its epicentre in the United States, crashing financial institutions and economies across the world. Mass unemployment followed, as the world lurched towards the most severe economic recession since the Great Depression in the 1930s. However, at the same time, a new cultural moment also emerged in the US: a new generation of younger men began to blog about American heritage brands on new web platforms like Tumblr and Wordpress. Known as the “#menswear” movement, it reflected a change in men’s fashion that moved away from the big, brash sportswear of the late Nineties towards preppiness - a way of dressing that was born out of the elite prep schools and university campuses of East Coast America in the early half of the twentieth century. Defined by items like penny loafers, varsity jackets, and navy blazers worn with chinos, it’s collegiate vibe epitomised by US brands like J Crew, Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren. As this menswear craze kicked off online, it spread over to our side of the Atlantic causing a renewed interest in Savile Row with a younger crowd. On the high street, sales of white shirts and suits surged at Marks & Spencer and jazzy pocket squares became essential accessories for guys going out on a Friday night. Ten years later, there are still many aspects of our current situation that feel very similar.

Economic slumps have historically welcomed a preppy style that mixes traditional and formal designs that filter back into the menswear mainstream

“At times of economic downturn, high unemployment, and an uncertain future, not only do we adopt a far more traditional and formal approach to what we wear, but we also look for that in those with whom we want to do business,” says Andrew Goves, Professor of Fashion Design at the University of Westminster, when I ask him why tailoring tends to become more popular with men during times of economic instability and uncertainty. “The suit, depending on its cut and style, allows the wearer to adopt the role of someone that is considered business-like, reliable, trustworthy, respectful, dutiful, and professional.” Of course, the difference with this recession is that the need to dress up for doing business has changed because its cause - a pandemic - has kept us in our homes and forced many workplaces to close. And yet, like many recessions before, we are still seeing the key items associated with preppiness filter back into the menswear mainstream, even into streetwear. Why is this? At its heart is the idea of mixing everything up. Sure the items may be traditional and formal, but the joy of preppy dressing is that it’s meant to be laid back - it’s about playing with items that are youthful despite being traditional: things like rugby shirts, bold collegiate graphics and cricket sweaters that we wore at school. Take a look at the pages of Take Ivy, a photobook by Japanese photographer Teruyoshi Hayashida. Published in the 1960s, it has become a bible for those obsessed with Ivy League style as it documented the sartorial sensibilities of a generation of preppy dressers in their natural habitat on the campuses of mid-century Ivy League colleges. The men Hayashida captured wear loafers with white sport socks and madras check shorts, loose wool blazers with jeans, business shirts under school sweaters. It’s smart, but slouchy. In today’s terms, it would be appropriate on a Zoom call with your boss, but still be comfortable to type in at your dining table all day - unlike a suit. Fashion is, of course, cyclical and the grass roots of tailoring coming back to prominence were showing through on the catwalks before we’d heard of Coronavirus.

STYLE — prep 2.0

STYLE â&#x20AC;&#x201D; prep 2.0

Mixing it up and blending dandyness with heritage. Having evolved from 1960s Ivy League college campuses, preppiness is defined by penny loafers, varsity jackets, and navy blazers worn with chinos and epitomised by US brands like J Crew, Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren

STYLE â&#x20AC;&#x201D; prep 2.0

STYLE — prep 2.0

However, the interesting thing is that, unlike the early 2010s where the menswear pendulum swung fully to formalwear (all tux jackets and tie pins), this time the presence of the pandemic has stopped the pendulum mid-swing. “There was a surge of more tailored and dressy looks coming, but as Corona hit, the sudden need for a more casual, jerseybased wardrobe kind of put a hold on it,” says Christopher Bastin, creative director of Gant, a Swedish brand whose history is closely intertwined with preppy East Coast clothing. “We’ll see what happens”. When it comes to predicting these things, Bastin is a good man to ask. After starting at the brand designing shirts, in 2009 he was promoted to being launch creative director of a new diffusion line, Gant Rugger, a younger, Ivy Leagueinspired sub-brand that enjoyed instant popularity among #menswear aficionados in the early 2010s. When this line was folded in 2015, Bastin departed shortly afterwards. Now he’s returned to helm the direction of the entire Gant brand. His first big collab is with one of Britain’s current Instagram style icons, artist Luke Edward Hall - a man who has become almost as famous on Instagram for his wardrobe of louche checked tailoring and cable-knit jumpers as he is for his whimsical, colourful line drawings. “Luke has such a personal way of putting himself together, putting preppy pieces

Prep 2.0 has graduated from those East Coast college campuses and headed to art school together with traditional British items that lend his look a real modern dandy vibe,” says Bastin. “He dresses the way he paints, it’s effortlessly cool with a lot of beautiful colours - and that’s exactly how I want Gant to look.” What’s notable is that, while the elements of prep are there in the way Edward Hall dresses, he’s not what you’d think of as preppy. Given the seal of approval by a brand like Gant, this collaboration is indicative of an evolution of the preppy look. Blending dandyness with heritage, it’s a new twist that’s colourful and more relaxed - and increasingly seen with the bold colour choices of knitwear at brands like Drake’s, or eye-popping rugby shirts at Rowing Blazers. Prep 2.0 has graduated from those East Coast campuses and headed to art school. It’s a rainbow-tipped cricket jumper over a trad button-down Oxford, a blazer over an Adidas tracksuit, a denim jacket over your silk PJs and a pair of Vans. “The appeal of tailoring is not only about the past but about the present,” says Frederick Castleberry, the owner of Wes Anderson-vibing, New York-based tailoring house FE Castleberry. “I am infinitely curious about how tailored clothing argues

A blazer over a rugby shirt typifies the prep look that could also include a denim jacket over silk PJs and a pair of Vans, or a rainbow-tipped cricket jumper over a trad button-down Oxford. Whippets are optional

its relevance each year. The recent appeal for me is continually exploring ways in marrying it with touches of streetwear and punk. It’s about that mix.” However, Castleberry theorises that, while tailoring will rise in popularity once again much like it did after the economic recession in the early 2010s, this time the vibe will be considerably more relaxed. That’s in part down to the global pandemic and more of us seeking appropriate attire for an increasingly work from home world, but it’s also endemic of historic evolution of what we wear as we move forwards. “Post pandemic, subtle branding has more of a shot of resurfacing than formal dressing,” he says. “Time has shown over the last 200 years that, as a country, we are simply dressing more and more casual each year. That’s not changing. After a recession, we do tend to gravitate back towards our own unique American style of preppy sportswear.” So, if you want to get ahead of the clothing curve, where to start? For that, there are few better people to ask than Chet Cannon. Based in LA, Cannon has gained a strong following posting his zingy, new wave preppy ‘fit shots’ to his Instagram account @prepsnotdead. As we verge into winter, there are a whole host of items he’d recommend a newbie to add to their baskets that epitomise this new preppy style. “I love a navy blazer moment,” he says. “A good half-tucked shirt, a few rugby shirts (I’m growing my collection each day), pleated pants, and croquet sweaters.” That said, for Chet, the key to getting the prep style right is less about the clothes and more about having a good time with it all - splicing things together and seeing what works. “You look at old photos of Hockney, Basquiat, JFK, and I can’t think they spent more than the time it took to slip into the clothes to nail the style. What I appreciate about the way those three wore clothing is that it was interesting and presentable, while being a bit disheveled,” he says. “That’s the jam, in my opinion.”

STYLE — must-haves

THE SPORT COAT

The terms ‘blazer’ and ‘sport coat’ are often used interchangeably, but any prep worth his salt knows that this is sacrilege of the highest order. While both are designed to be worn with non-coordinating trousers such as jeans or chinos, a blazer is a solid colour (often navy and fitted with gold buttons in a nod to its nautical origins) whereas a sport coat or sport jacket is cut from a jazzier patterned fabric and finished with more casual details like patch pockets and elbow patches. Sport coats are often a little more relaxed in cut, so perfect for layering now the colder weather has arrived.

edit: NICK CARVELL

Get prepped

CAMOSHITA X TRUNK,

> Some menswear fans hold that the Japanese actually do Americana better than the Americans - and this sport coat, created by prep-obsessed Japanese tailoring house Camoshita for the tenth anniversary of Chiltern Street destination store Trunk appears to prove their point. £1,295, TRUNKCLOTHIERS.COM

If you’re looking for menswear with provenance, there’s no stronger genre than the items that have come to fall under the term ‘preppy’. Originating on the East Coast of America in ‘old money’ states, preppy was used as a way to describe the kind of gear the pupils of expensive prep schools and Ivy League universities would wear. Thanks to bibles like Take Ivy, a photobook shot by legendary Japanese lens-man Teruyoshi Hayashida that documented the way students dressed on those elite private universities in the mid-1960s, this style sensibility spread across the world, spawning new brands like Ralph Lauren and boosting the global influence of heritage American labels like Brooks Brothers and J Press and Sperry. Here, I break down the essential items every preppy guy should own, and the labels - both old school and new wave - which are making the very best versions.

STYLE — must-haves

ANGLO-ITALIAN,

> Crafted from Glen Plaid material in supremely versatile shades of autumnal brown, the added advantage of the Anglo-Italian’s take on this tailoring classic is that it’s half-lined meaning you won’t be creating your own personal sauna when you slip it on over a cashmere rollneck. £990, ANGLOITALIAN.COM

DAKS,

> DAKS was founded back in 1894, and its signature brown, black and cream check has become an instantly recognisable symbol of the tailoring house since it was introduced in 1976 - and with the current seventies menswear revival, it feels just as fresh as it did 44 years ago. £650, DAKS.COM

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JFK. Paul Newman. Edward, Duke of Windsor. All preppy style icons

BROOKS BROTHERS RED FLEECE,

> For a trimmer take on an item that’s often cut with an intentionally slouchier silhouette, take a look at this slim-lapelled sport coat from Brooks Brothers’ younger Red Fleece line. £360, BROOKSBROTHERS.COM

STYLE — must-haves

CHAMPION X TODD SNYDER,

> Sometimes the tiniest twist creates something we never knew we needed. Case in point, this crazily cosy funnel-necked, fleece-line grey sweatshirt from the new season Champion and Todd Snyder collaboration. £92, TODDSNYDER.COM

THE SWEATSHIRT

JFK. Paul Newman. Edward, Duke of Windsor. All preppy style icons. All loved a sporty sweatshirt. Today, these remain a staple of any self-respecting prep’s armoury, either in a classic grey melange or with something a bit more graphic that pledges your loyalty to your alma mater, your sports team, hell, even the brands you love. And while we love a classic, here are a few remixes of the wear-anywhere wardrobe staple.

STYLE — must-haves

A NOVEL MART,

> Not a member of an exclusive racquet club? Not a problem. Fool all your fancy friends with one of these superb ‘Generic Sporting Club’ sweatshirts. £45, NOVEL-MART.COM

GANT,

> If you’re not into sports, commit your chest to your love of the countryside instead with this oversized sweatshirt, a part of the new collaboration between Ivy League-inspired Swedish label Gant and notoriously well-dressed British artist Luke Edward Hall. £125, GANT.CO.UK

POLO RALPH LAUREN,

> Originally introduced in 1991, retired in 2001 and reintroduced in 2013, Ralph Lauren’s bear (he doesn’t have a name) has become a near cult-like figure in the menswear world. Whether dressed in a Purple Label tux or the label’s recent collab with Palace skateboards, he’s now mostly found on the American designer’s sweatshirts, dressed in suitably preppy garb - and this season, wearing his plaid duffle jacket and velvet slippers, is no exception. £155, RALPHLAUREN.CO.UK

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Not a member of an exclusive racquet club? Not a problem

JOHN SMEDLEY,

> If you want to keep the laid-back vibe of a sweatshirt, but want something a little more on-the-clock-friendly, go for a crew-neck in a fine-gauge knit. This from John Smedley, woven from luxurious Merino wool, is the definition of effortlessly stylish. £180, JOHNSMEDLEY.COM

STYLE — must-haves

THE RUGBY SHIRT

As a way of dressing born out of the most gentrified school campuses of the East Coast, it’s no surprise that many of the items that define the genre today come from the rarefied sports that tended to be played there: rowing, golf, sailing and rugby. That’s why, despite rugby not being a particularly notable part of the American sports landscape nationally, the rugby shirt has still become an integral part of a prep fan’s wardrobe.

DRAKES,

> One look at the new season shirts from Drakes and it’s fairly safe to say that if this Savile Row tailoring house had a rugby team, I reckon it would have the best kit in the country. £195, DRAKES.COM

STYLE — must-haves

MARKS & SPENCER,

> Bold stripes on burgundy for the win. £29.50, MARKSANDSPENCER.COM

ROWING BLAZERS,

> While we call it The Plough over here in the UK, across the pond the constellation Ursa Major goes by the frankly far-more-fun name of the Big Dipper. Whichever you prefer, it’s hard to deny that it makes an eye-catching graphic for this appropriately midnight blue rugby shirt. £180, ROWINGBLAZERS.COM

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If this Savile Row tailors had a rugby team, it would have the best kit in the country BERG & BERG,

> Cut to a slim silhouette from 100 per cent cotton and trimmed with a contrast chambray collar, this is the sort of rugby shirt that’s made to be worn slightly smarter - tucked into a pair of chinos or even slipped on under a cord suit. £207, BERGBERGSTORE.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

THE WINTERPROOF LOAFER

Whether penny, tasselled or kiltie, loafers are the ultimate transitional shoe for an Ivy Leaguer - worn casually with a white sports sock or more smartly with hosiery that coordinates with your trousers. However, as we verge into the definitively wet seasons, you need a slip-on that will prevent you from slipping over. Look out for chunky soles with rubber grips and deep treads to make sure an unexpected downpour doesn’t lead to you falling down.

EDWARD GREEN,

> If a stockier sole isn’t your vibe, there are still plenty of more traditional silhouettes out there that have evolved to deal with precipitation. These superb Duke penny loafers from Northampton’s Edward Green, with an elegant low profile, have swapped the usual leather sole for a rain-beating rubber one. £995, EDWARDGREEN.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

HERRING,

> British shoemaker Herring has also chosen to pump up the volume on its loafers. This superb mock-croc leather loafer, jacked up on suitably sturdy soles, will look great with a pair of straightcut chinos and a slouchy sweater. £135, HERRINGSHOES.CO.UK

CHURCH’S,

> Artfully treading the line between classic and contemporary, these kiltie loafers from Church’s combine the detailing of a Scottish classic with beautifully brawny, Goodyear-welted soles. £460, AT MRPORTER.COM

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Loafers are the ultimate transitional shoe for an Ivy Leaguer

BLACKSTOCK & WEBER,

> Shoes featuring contrasting black and white (or brown and white) leathers hit peak popularity during the Jazz Age in America, and have enjoyed a modest renaissance worldwide with menswear fans since Ryan Gosling wore a pair in La La Land (2016). New York shoemaker Blackstock & Weber makes some of the best I’ve seen, featuring a more modern, thicker sole and swapping the more traditional shiny leather for a beautiful matt pebble grain. £230, BLACKSTOCKANDWEBER.COM

EYEING A PROMOTION

£208, SEVENFRFIDAY.COM

WITH MANY of our meetings shifting to Zoom for the foreseeable future, your glasses are one of the few ways to express any sort of personal style when all anyone else can see of you is from the neck up. Want to catch the attention of your superiors while working from home? These bold, thick, faux-tortoise shell opticals from German label Sevenfriday, inspired by politicians of the 1970s, are true boss-level frames. £208, SEVENFRFIDAY.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

Editor’s picks A few new and noteworthy items for your sartorial consideration

BAG SOMETHING CUSTOM

Down in Somerset, designer Johnny Szymanski has just launched a service making made-to-order totes and weekend bags out of his store in Frome. Available in a variety of zingy colours and two sturdy materials (nylon and waxed cotton), you can play around with hundreds of combinations on site until you find one that perfectly suits your needs and your personal style. FROM £65 TO £90. MORE INFORMATION AT JOHNNYSZYMANSKI.COM

GREY SKIES NEED A YELLOW JACKET

This winter, Newcastle outerwear brand Berghaus has tapped the style sensibilities of Scottish menswear label Kestin to remix a few of their rugged classics. While the chillbeating fleeces and trousers are superb, my pick is this zingy citruscoloured Mera Peak jacket - a new take on a silhouette originally released in 2003, reimagined in sleek and shower-resistant heavyweight Italian nylon. £425, KESTIN.CO

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TIME FOR A FAKE FUNNEL

Play around with hundreds of combinations until you find one that perfectly suits your style

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As the temperature dips, the mock turtleneck reaches the peak of its power. A knit that’ll bring a modern edge to any suit when worn solo, it’s an exceptional layering piece for the colder months. Slipping one under a light knit or casual shirt not only brings added warmth to pieces you might otherwise be prepping to stow away for winter, but also makes them look damn cool. £45, PAULJAMESKNITWEAR.COM

CULTURE — walk well

Words:

Sam Kessler

Everyday exceptionalism BILLY RUFFIAN’S SHOES MIGHT TAKE THEIR CUES FROM BRITISH FINE FOOTWEAR BUT THESE AREN’T RESERVED FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS. THESE ARE EVERYDAY CLASSICS

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Billy Ruffian’s shoes are made for everyday people on traditional English lasts that are offset by globe-trotting materials and a range of palettepleasing colours

To make sure you can complete the look, each pair comes with a pair of Billy Ruffian’s playful patterned socks

Shoes should be worn. Sure, that doesn’t sound like the most divisive of statements, but when it comes to fine, handcrafted footwear, the kind with rare, delicate leathers polished to a mirror shine and worn but once a year, it’s not always the case. There’s a place for that kind of footwear, like there is for a vintage Patek Philippe Travel Time, but it’s not generally on your person every single day.

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So what about the footwear equivalent of, say, a Tudor? Something fun, practical yet with the same level of craftsmanship to play with the most prestigious names in their field? Well for that, there’s Billy Ruffian. You won’t see Billy Ruffian at Pitti Uomo; you will however, see them on the feet of that impeccably stylish handyman you met at a pub in Chelsea (in better times, of course). They’re shoes for real people rather than walking mannikins, whether that’s comfy, lounge-ready loafers, Oxfords and Brogues for the ultimate smart casual look or Chelsea and Chukka boots for hard-wearing style. The shoes themselves are made on traditional English lasts, but don’t for a second imagine them as staid and restrained British classics. Sure those sorts of pieces are available, but the vast array of globe-trotting materials and palette-pleasing colours make for an eye-catching collection of shows and boots. At one end you have the rich tones of chocolate and chestnut; at the other bright, napped suedes like the incredible Rosso Red. If you’re worried about experimenting too much, don’t be. To make sure that you can complete the look, each pair of shoes comes complete with a pair of Billy Ruffian’s playful patterned socks. It’s a little touch, but one that sets off the brand’s tenet in life: Walk Well. Their shoes – and accompanying socks – are designed as much for comfort as looks, for substance as well as style. By combining fine leathers, solid craftsmanship and an eye for design that veers far more modern than traditional, Billy Ruffian’s shoes are everyday exceptionalism. That also means they’re priced fairly too. Their versatile Kendal Brogue in snuff suede will set you back a surprisingly affordable £150. When put side-by-side with some of the pricier options out there, it’s a surprise there’s not as big a waiting list as there is for Tudor’s Black Bay Fifty-Eight. Discover the full collection and find your new favourite pair of shoes at www.billyruffianshoes.co.uk

W o r d s :

A D A M

ITALIAN H A Y - N I C H O L L S

EXOTICS

CULTURE — Italian stallions

Madonna appeared in the music video for 1986’s Papa Don’t Preach wearing a t-shirt that read ‘Italians Do It Better’. One assumes she was talking about wedge-shaped car design.

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CULTURE — Italian stallions

An icon of the era, the Lamborghini Countach (above) was a fixture on teenage bedroom wall in the 80s. It started with the sleek design of the 1974 Countach (below, right) and was replaced by the 16-cylinder Diablo (right) in 1990

In 1971, Marcello Gandini created the Countach (translated from Italian, this word essentially means ‘whoa!’ or ‘crikey!’) 110

THAT DECADE SAW some of the most exotic-looking cars ever produced come out of Italy’s ateliers and supercar factories. It was a golden era for those who like their motors brash, sexualised and neck-snapping even at standstill. They seemed to be made less for the open road and more to make a statement when pulling up outside a neon-fringed nightclub. Whether rendered on a teenager’s bedroom wall or in real life, these cars were fourwheeled fantasies of a flashier universe. Lamborghini birthed this aesthetic movement. The Marcello Gandini-penned Miura, which was released in 1966, is considered the world’s first supercar. In 1971, the same team created the Countach (translated from Italian, this word essentially means ‘whoa!’ or ‘crikey!’). Gandini and his employer Bertone had been experimenting with angular and geometric design language in a series of concepts for Lamborghini, Alfa Romeo and Lancia, and, to the amazement of everyone, Lambo actually green-lit the Countach and rolled it out for production in 1974 barely changed from that first LP500 concept. In the 1980s, it grew a rear wing and a more powerful V12. Horacio Pagani was called in in 1988 to sharpen it further to celebrate the car company’s 25th anniversary. In 1990, the Countach was replaced by the Diablo, a design which was basically a cosmetically reduced re-badging of a remarkable 16-cylinder machine that had emerged two years earlier. The Cizeta-Moroder V16T, of which just 11 were produced, is a solid pub quiz question for petrolheads. Again, it was a Gandini piece of art. It was meant for Lamborghini, but the Sant’Agata manufacturer (then owned by Chrysler) set about softening his work and Gandini threw a fit. The V16T was developed by a bunch of ex-Lambo employees, led by Claudio Zampolli, whose initials C.Z. became ‘Ci-Zeta’. The Moroder part of the title is especially cool: Giorgio Moroder, the electronic music god, financed the venture. That’s right, the man who helped create disco and composed the score for Scarface had his very own synth-supercar company. The V16T turned out to be its only product. With a top speed of 204mph and a 0-62mph time of just four seconds, it was powered by two Lamborghini Urraco flat-plane V8s stuck together and mounted transversely between the back of the passenger seats and the rear axle, summoning 540bhp. At $650,000, this and every other figure attached to it made the V16T absolutely unbeatable in games of Top Trumps. The Cizetta’s straked side air conveyors were a familiar 1980s Italian signature.

CULTURE â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Italian stallions

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CULTURE â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Italian stallions

The Ares Panther ProgettoUno (left) is a reimagined Lamborghini Huracan in a carbon-fibre body. The iconic styling of the Countach (below) through the years

This was a true Italian muscle car, designed by Ghiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tom Tjaarda, and you can almost smell the cologne just from looking at it

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CULTURE — Italian stallions

Of all the Ferraris of that decade, the one that caught the imagination the most was the Testarossa. Drawn by Pininfarina, it debuted at the 1984 Paris Motor Show and was hailed as the most beautiful car there. The name with which it was christened means ‘redhead’ and refers to the scarlet-painted cam covers on its flat 12-cylinder engine. Those strakes on the side were as much about form as function, a statement piece which became known as a ‘cheese grater’ or ‘egg slicer’. Its volume and graphics emphasise width and drama, and its aerodynamics were extremely low-drag. Famously, a white one appeared in Miami Vice and its star Don Johnson, and show-runner Michael Mann, drove Testarossas off-screen, as did O.J. Simpson, Rod Stewart, Michael Jordan and M.C. Hammer. It also appeared in the arcade game OutRun, cementing its place in pop culture for a generation. Compared to Enzo Ferrari’s earlier stable, this Testarossa seemed a little uncouth and overtly commercial, but then the 80s were all about cashing in. The rosso corsa OutRun car was, those with a keen eye may recall, a convertible. Ferrari only ever made one Testarossa Spider, a silver-coloured gift to Fiat chairman and style icon Gianni Agnelli. It had a solid silver emblem on the bonnet, instead of aluminium, in a nod to its periodic table symbol of the first two letters of Agnelli’s surname. It was sold by the family in 2016 for $1 million. Aside from the Testarossa and Countach, when one recalls eye-catching cars from the 80s one inevitably thinks of the DeLorean from Back to the Future. DeLorean was an American company which built its total 8,975 cars in Northern Ireland. But it was Giorgetto Giugiaro who designed it. The Italdesign man, who was also responsible for the Lotus Esprit and BMW M1, caused a sensation when he unveiled its brushed stainless-steel body, which everyone joked must be cleaned with a Brillo pad, and gull-wing doors from the pages of science fiction. The De Tomaso Pantera outlasted all of these cars, from 1971-1992, and seemed to take all the best bits from this era. This was a true Italian muscle car, designed by Ghia’s Tom Tjaarda, and you can almost smell the cologne just from looking at it. And now it has been reinterpreted and reborn for the 2020s courtesy of Modenese coachbuilders Ares Design. A customer who owned two Panteras went to CEO Dany Bahar and asked if he could build a reboot without the De Tomaso’s bad habits, namely an urge to kill its driver. The result is the Ares Panther ProgettoUno; a Lamborghini Huracan clothed in an all-new but evocative carbon-fibre body which pays homage to the Pantera in a way that’s contemporary, yet fused with the spirit of retro hairychested Italian car couture. Ares charge £375,000 plus the cost of a donor Huracan, but the ProgettoUno is the most exclusive car here – even more so than the Cizetta-Moroder. Looking good doesn’t come cheap, and if you want to live out your teenage dreams without sacrificing modern technology then look no further. And remember to roll up your suit sleeves.

The DeLorean is a central fixture of the Back to the Future films, but its Italian design has been somewhat lost to history. The Ferrari Testarossa (below) was a similar star of screen and immortalised by Don Johnson in Miami Vice

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CULTURE — horsepower

1993 CIZETA V16T The ultimate 90s baby, only nine of these If our deep-dive into the high-octane world of Italian supercars has you lusting after a taste of 80s and 90s engines then never fear, we have you covered. Whether it’s the bull, horse or plain old horsepower, there are plenty of insane motors available to buy right now. Well, what else are you going to do with that wasted holiday money anyway? At least this way your UK road trip’s are going to be a hell of a lot more fun.

A TASTE OF THE

EXOTICS Words:

things were ever built. It was designed by Marcelo Gandini, the man behind the Lamborghini Diablo among others and is one of the rarest motors in the world. This, chassis #101 is arguably the finest of them all, and was shown at the 1993 Geneva Auto Show. You can find out more about the Cizeta-Moroder in the previous article, but as far as buying one is concerned you just need to know this: if you do give in a request a price, it’s going to be a serious wad of cash. As it’s a once-in-a-lifetime buy, but even then it’ll be tempting. Price on request from Curated,

Sam Kessler

wearecurated.com

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CULTURE — horsepower

1986 FERRARI TESTAROSSA The Testarossa would be a head-turner even if it weren’t in bright Ferrari red. As it is, this is the most collectible version of the legendary car, and with only 24,000 miles and one owner from new, is a lot of car for the money. With its cheese-grater side strakes it’s a lot less restrained than earlier Ferraris, but then that’s why we love the 80s, isn’t it? Unlike most of the decade though, the Testarossa’s aged very well indeed. £115,000 from Duncan Hamilton ROFGO, w w w.dhrofgo.com

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This is the ultimate form of the Diablo - and for a reasonable price, too

1996 LAMBORGHINI DIABLO SV The 90s successor to the Countach, the Diablo’s one of the more accessible Lamborghinis out there while still looking about as mean as they come. This particular number was created for display at the London Motor Show in 1996, so has some serious provenance – and a seriously cool paint job to match in Speziale blue. The first Super Veloce since the Miura SV over two decades previously, this is the ultimate form of the Diablo – and for a reasonable price, too. £179,995 from Hexagon Classics, www. hexagonclassics.com

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CULTURE — speed

Words:

Tom Pettit

M STANDS FOR MODIFICATA A tighter, sharper take on Ferrari’s entry-level model

The restyled and reinvigorated Ferrari Portofino races to 124mph a second quicker than its predecessor

A COUPLE OF YEARS AGO I drove to Portofino along the winding ribbon roads of northern Sardinia accompanied by a police escort and 80 classic Ferraris. Safe to say, it was the best day of my life, which I‘m allowed to say as I’m not married and have no children. While I was certainly jealous of the F40s, Dinos and Daytonas flanking me, I quickly fell in love with entry-level supercar from Maranello. Its handsome, modern good-looks and monster of an engine combined with its mellow easy-going nature won me over in an instant. I still regale to anyone that will listen about using its poise in the hairpins and brutal gear changes to leave the local Tifosi, chasing in Puntos and Pandas, in the dust.

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CULTURE — speed

A choice of five driving modes replace the previous three, including the hair-raising option of having all driving aids removed

The new Portofino Modificata isn’t, as the name suggests, a souped-up boy racer, but a sharpened version of an already very good GT car This first impression was only compounded by a later drive and the realisation you can get a full set of golf clubs in by removing a hatch in the back seat. So, when an upgraded version was announced last month, I was happy. The new Portofino Modificata (shortened to M) isn’t, as the name suggests, a souped-up boy racer from a second-rate tuning company, but a sharpened version of an already a very good GT car. The aesthetic changes are minimal. The front

bumper has been restyled to give it slightly more aggressive, sporty lines but that’s about it looks-wise. The 3.9 litre V8 has been boosted to produce 20 extra horses, taking it to a total of 612bhp, while a new eight-speed dual-clutch automatic gearbox replaces the original sevenspeed. These two changes have a fairly large impact, not only improving fuel economy but, thanks to shortened gear ratios and increased torque output, means that it takes you a second less to hit 124mph. Most importantly however, the manettino driving mode switch on the steering wheel now offers five driving modes as opposed to its previous three, ranging from wet to a mode with all driving aids turned off; not for the faint-hearted. Ferrari may have been accused of punching down a little with the original Portofino, but these adjustments ensure that this is an entry-level Ferrari even the purists can get on board with. I certainly can. www.ferrari.com

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FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 42.7mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Calibre 6R35 automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve • £1,230, seikoboutique.co.uk

SEIKO Prospex 55th Anniversary ‘Captain Willard’ Limited Edition SPB183J

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FRONT — watch reviews

Plenty of watchmakers have been turning to their archives for inspiration (or lack thereof, in some instances) in recent years but even the most dedicated trawlers of throwback designs must look at Seiko with envy. The Japanese watchmaker has been killing it with their re-issues, bringing out new editions left and right – and this year they have genuine cause for celebration. Back in 1965, Seiko launched their, and Japan’s, first diver’s watch, one used by the Japanese Antarctic Research Expedition team throughout the 60s. Now that it’s hit a venerable 55 years of age, Seiko has taken the opportunity to release two new, limited editions, one of which is a take on one of their most famous pieces: the 6105 ‘Captain Willard’. And I love it. First built in 1970, five years after the first ever Prospex, the ‘Willard’ sits alongside the ‘Tuna’, ‘Samurai’ and ‘Sumo’ as one of Seiko’s collectors’ icons. It was also the progenitor of the ‘Turtle’, and it’s not hard to see why, with its incredibly wide, sloping cushion case and humped crown guard. It’s fun, retro and painfully cool if you can pull it off. The name however comes from the original watch’s most famous appearance. If you’ve ever watched Apocalypse Now (for sanity’s sake I hope the 1979 theatrical release rather than the slog of a Redux), you may have spotted a ‘Turtle’ on the wrist of Sheen’s Captain Willard. The specific reference of that watch is the 6105-8110, and is a serious (but affordable) collectors piece. The SPB183J here isn’t quite a re-issue in the purest sense; that happened earlier in the year with the SPB153. Instead this is a modern re-interpretation, which means a slightly smaller, more casually wearable case size of 42.7mm. That makes it a touch less charming in my opinion, but given I plumped for the downsized Tuna released earlier this year, this is certainly on my wishlist. Much as I love the larger original, this is far, far more wearable. The same goes for the colour, too. The faithful-to-the-film Khaki version is nice, but I can see myself wearing this blue edition far more regularly, simply because it’s more versatile. Otherwise, the chunky, polished indexes and hands are authentic and downright lovely, while the orange second hand offers a much-needed flash of colour and makes precise reading easy enough. Typical of Seiko (especially for their limited edition offerings) the finishing is superb. The bezel is Zaratsu polished to a near-mirror shine a la Grand Seiko, and while the curved case offers fewer clean-cut facets than, say, the ‘Samurai’, it plays with the light nicely. It’s water resistant to 200m, shy of the golden 300m but great for a 50-year-old design. It also has a super hard coating for extra durability, a subtle but marked improvement on bare stainless steel. On the wrist it wears far smaller than it looks, sitting nicely dead centre, helped along by the not-quite integrated strap. The fact that it’s thinner than you’d expect (13.2mm) is a major plus point for daily wear, too.

A modern re-interpretation is what breathes new life into a design, and this icon is just that 123

Inside you have the workhorse Seiko calibre 6R35, as good as the movement in any Prospex bar those with the LX designation and the Grand Seiko movements that denotes. That means an impressive 70-hour power reserve and a respectable accuracy of +25 / -15 seconds a day, both considerably better specs than the original timepiece would have offered. Re-issues are all well and good and Seiko certainly has more than enough of them; a modern re-interpretation though is what breathes new life into a design, and this blue limited edition of a horological screen icon is just that. It’s authentic where it needs to be but modern where it can be. Thank god there are 5,500 of them up for grabs. £1,230, www.seikoboutique.co.uk

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 39mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Sellita SW200-1 with 38-hour power reserve • £775, farer.com

FARER Morgan Pilot Automatic

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FRONT — watch reviews

Though it might feel like the entirety of Britain has entered purgatory in the past few weeks, British watch brands seem not to have noticed. Or perhaps it’s simply that their designers have been bored in lockdown. Whatever it is, we’ve seen a flurry of new home-grown pieces come out and, as ever, it’s colourful, off-kilter watch brand Farer that’s caught our attention. They’re gradually working their way through every genre and sub-genre of watch out there. Colourful racing chronographs, refined worldtimers, even an impeccably retro compressor or two, they’ve tilted their multi-feathered hat into most specialisms of watchmaking. Now they’re adding pilot’s watches to the l ew Pilot; by that I mean taking an archetypal watch design, keep the essence of what makes it work – depth resistance for ist and it’s about time. Farer have done what they do best with the n divers, rotating bezels for GMTs or, in this case, oversized crowns and legibility – and give it their own distinct twist. That twist comes in three different variations: there’s the Cayley with its oversized California dial in a midnight blue; the yellow, blue and white Bradfield with its layered dial and this, the Morgan. The Morgan is the closest of the three to the kind of traditional blueprint of a pilot’s watch. It’s certainly the most militaristic, with its high-contrast white on black dial. In fact, it’s pretty somber for Farer, though they thankfully couldn’t help themselves but add a bright blue outline to the broadsword hands and a red-tipped second hand. The numbers on the dial are split into two rings for quick reading, with hours on the inside to line up with the tip of the hour hand and five-minute markers for the minute hand. I found the hour hand obscures the numerals a little. Not enough to impact legibility unless you struggle to count to 12, but it felt a touch awkward to me. Otherwise it’s a seriously good-looking dial and there’s a lot of it. Despite the entire case measuring in at a svelte 39mm, the dial is 37mm across. It means you have a nicelysized, easily wearable watch – made more so with short lugs – that still has plenty of reading space. That in turn means that Farer can do more with the dial without it getting lost, such as the two-tier construction with different finishes and silver outlines. It might be the most restrained of Farer’s pilot’s pieces aesthetically but it’s still mechanically one of the most accomplished of their watches to date. The SW200-1 calibre automatic movement boasts a respectable 38-hour power reserve, but what sets it apart is its anti-magnetism. Farer

The result is a watch that treads the line between a utilitarian cockpit instrument and a cool, casual, everyday watch 127

have encased the movement in a soft-iron Faraday cage, allowing it to stand up to 500 gauss. I’ve not had a chance to try it myself (I tend to avoid oversized magnets if I can help it) but that’s enough to stop the watch being magnetised by everyday electronics. Don’t try it out in an MRI machine or an industrial crane and you’re probably ok. Finished with an oversized, fluted crown in the vein of a Big Pilot (complete with Farer’s bronze logo of course), the Morgan is ironically one of Farer’s most down-to-earth pieces, true to its military roots. Still, they’ve let themselves have some fun with the tried-and-tested design and the result is a watch that treads the line between a utilitarian cockpit instrument and a cool, casual, everyday watch – a fine line that Farer seem to be very much at home on. £775, farer.com

FRONT — top tech

SOME PEOPLE, we assume, enjoy gadgets, devices and various bits of tech that look like alien pebbles from the future, otherwise there wouldn’t be so much of that ‘less is more’ sort of design in all things electronic. We, however, prefer a little more character to things, a bit more retro fun than faux-futurism cool, timeless charm over built-in obsolescence. That’s not to say we don’t demand performance too; style over substance is all well and good in a Christopher Nolan film, but when it comes to what we use, listen to and work with every day, you want to reach at least a solid baseline of technological quality. Here then are the pieces of retro-styled tech for the home that not only work as well as any flashy, cutting-edge nonsense, but have the aesthetic quirks to last far beyond their supposed expiry dates.

WORDS:

Sam Kessler

ROSE-TINTED

TECH 128

FRONT — top tech

LEAK STEREO 130

Integrated Amplifier

Coming from one of the biggest audio names of the 1960s and 70s, revived for the 21st century, the Leak Stereo 130 is a descendent of their famed Stereo 30 and it shows. The boxy, real-wood enclosure and retro frontage hides a wealth of serious audiophile goodness, improving on its ancestor drastically. A good part of that is its wireless connectivity (which would have seemed like magic when the Stereo 30 came out in 1963), yet Leak’s amp will hold up in pretty much any system you need it for. If you’re old-school enough to still use CDs, pair it with the Leak CDT Player (£459 with walnut enclosure) for smooth, precise and wonderfully versatile listening at home. £799 with walnut enclousure, £699 without,

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FRONT — top tech

TAEHA TYPES

Bespoke Keyboard

Forget flimsy laptop keyboards; if you want to get some serious work done you need something satisfying, mechanical and, in an ideal world, hand-assembled by twitch streamer and luxury keyboard specialist Tae Ha Kim. Like any bespoke project, each keyboard is assembled to your strict requirements and personal style. Want a keyboard to suit your mid-century modern sensibilities? Go for it. Best of all, you can see very clearly what you’re getting, as each keyboard is assembled live on Twitch on Kim’s own channel. From $1,800 (approx. £1,350), taehatypes.com

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If you're missing evening at NYC loft-style cocktail bars, then these should do the trick

HUE FILAMENT

Smart Bulbs

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Lighting makes all the difference to your home and if you’re currently missing evenings hanging out at NYC loft-style cocktail bars, then these vintage-inspired filament bulbs with their soft white light should do the trick. Like other smart bulbs, they can be dimmed or brightened using your smart home system of choice or via Bluetooth, but with the Edison-esque look of a turn-of-the-century protolightbulb. From £17.99 per bulb, philips-hue.com

FRONT — top tech

BANG & OLUFSEN BEOGRAM 4000C Turntable

It’s not just watchmakers delving into their archives nowadays; audio company Bang & Olufsen have reached back to the 70s for this re-creation of their seminal turntable. It’s about as authentic as these things can get as each is actually a refurbished and upgraded original Beogram 4000. Think of it as a restomod for your vinyl and, like the classic car equivalent, combining the retro style that made it an icon with an updated preamp so that it can be integrated into any modern home sound-system. The only downside is that there are under 100 of the things available. £9,000, bang-olufsen.com

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FRONT — top tech

FOCAL CHORA 806

Bookshelf Loudspeaker

Small but powerful, the Chora 806 bookshelf speaker from audio specialist Focal hits far harder than its size might suggest. With its combination of natural wood cabinet and unique Slatefibre cone, the Chora 806 opts for natural, organic finishes in a classic shape, though the cone is there for more than its grain. Using recycled, non-woven carbon fibres all pointing in the same direction, the cone offers improved damping, great rigidity and lightness – the three things you really want from a driver. Available in a lovely dark grey, a funkier tan colour with light wood or a glossy black number, it’s a charming throwback design that backs up its retro good looks with masterful audio technology. £599, focal.com

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FRONT — top tech

BESPOKE ARCADES APEX PLAY

Nothing is more definitively retro than an old, coin-fed arcade machine and there’s no arcade machine quite like the Apex from the aptly-named Bespoke Arcades. The 174cm tall cabinet comes equipped with a baseline of 10,000 classic games, and the ability to add emulators and hook up next-gen consoles means it’ll never get old. It’s not cheap of course – the ‘Elite’ version caps out at £4,795 – but given the amount of pounds you’ve probably dropped over the years on these things, it’s probably a decent investment. From £2,595, www.bespoke-arcades.co.uk

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CULTURE — food & drink

Words:

Nick Savage

THE PEOPLE, CULTURES AND IMAGE THAT SHAPED MOURAD MAZOUZ

With dining-in an impossibility throughout London (for very obvious reasons), OT restaurant editor Nick Savage instead took the time to chat to one of the most influential figures in the capital’s contemporary dining scene 135

CULTURE — food & drink

“EACH TIME I START A RESTAURANT, I start with an image, not a story.” Mourad Mazouz, founder of Sketch, proclaims. “When I did my restaurant in Beirut I thought: if Yves Saint Laurent was leaving Morocco, what kind of place would he do in Beirut? That was the backbone of the design and the concept. Each time I chose an object or an idea, I’d ask whether Yves Saint Laurent would like it.” It’s the kind of conversation that only could have happened in the time of Covid-19. Sitting, safely sociallydistanced, on the patio of his newly minted restaurant Mo Diner on Heddon Street, I listen to Mourad hold court, regaling the table with stories that globetrot from Formentera and Pakistan to Los Angeles and Bali. With travel corridors closed to many of these countries, Mazouz’s anecdotes take on a deeper savour and sate one’s appetite for far-flung locations and sandy sunsets, finding a fitting complement in the spread of north African and Mediterranean delicacies in front of us. Born in Algeria, Mazouz moved to Paris at the age of 15 and through hustle and graft worked his way up, cleaning offices during the day, selling jeans during the weekends, and spending late nights and early mornings in nightclubs. At the age of 21 he left for Los Angeles with $500 in his pocket, took a job at Malmaison, and took off for the horizon. When I ask him whether he could have achieved what he did without having lived internationally he responds “LA, Aspen, Hawaii, the Caribbean, South East Asia: When I came back I was not the same man. I discovered other peoples, cultures and points of view. In Algeria we were very proud to be communists and proud not to have tourists. I was in what I call the washing machine of propaganda.” Upon returning, he went from strength to strength, creating zeitgeisty venues as popular with celebrities as party people. He boasts a number of superlatives, such as being the first African restaurateur to win three Michelin stars (at Sketch). His motley crew of bars and restaurants straddles the Channel and includes 404, Derrière and Andy in Paris as well Momo and Kwānt in London. The latter, a cocktail bar nestled beneath Momo on Heddon

Street, has just won the London Essence Best New Opening of the Year at The World’s 50 Best Bars Award ceremony, placing sixth overall. Yet when Mourad discusses his restaurants, they seem more like family members than potential franchises. There’s no whiff of false humility when he claims “I’m not a businessman. I’m a shopkeeper. I need to see the expressions on my customers’ faces. If I’m not serving, I feel crazy.” Mo Diner is the latest string to his bow. After reading an article in the New York Times sounding the alarm on the death knell of that great American institution – the diner – he set out on a mission to keep it alive in his own inimitable way. The result is a sunny, resplendent boite that splits the difference between north Africa and Los Angeles. Acid yellow Moroccan tiles

“I’m not a businessman. I’m a shopkeeper. I need to see the expressions on my customers’ faces. If I’m not serving, I feel crazy” (that will cure nicely over the years – Mourad adds) meld nicely with the classic deep booths and counter seating of an American diner. “I took the blueprint of a diner and incorporated that into this small place of 600 square feet, with forty covers and a kitchen.” Ever the collaborator, Mourad headhunted a number of designobsessed parties to help him manifest his vision, including LA-based creative agency WP&A for art direction on the diner’s paper placemats, plates, mugs, menus, logo. Swedish designers Gasens Lada Utemobler for the terrace furniture. NYC-based arts documentary photographer Hugo Scott who contributed 50 framed works and French Chinese artist Yue Wu, who drew a 360-degree gallery of artworks that lead down into the basement. Yet it’s unmistakably Mourad’s spot through and through. “When you do your own place, you don’t think like a designer,” he says. “You think about how it will look in 10, in 15, in 20 years.”

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Eric Chavot, who earned a Michelin star at his excellent and well-missed Brasserie Chavot, is helping out in the kitchens and has created a menu that draws as much from Tunisia as it does from across the Mediterranean in southern France. Over a bracing bottle of Ixsir Altitudes White from Lebanon, we tuck into immaculate duck confit studded with pomegranate seeds; petits farcis and socca and bouillabaisse; and an incredible beignet imbued with a Tunisian fricassee of tuna, egg, potatoes and capers. We wrap up the meal with a Chocolate Old Fashioned, warm chocolate cookie dough with vanilla yogurt crème glacee as well as a pot of pistachio and chocolate creme, pistachio ice cream and Chantilly, then repair downstairs to Kwānt. The bar feels like it could have been lifted from a Perrier Jouët Belle Epoque bottle by way of Rick’s Café in Casablanca. Its painted mirrors, herringbone flooring, latticework bamboo ceilings, velvet lounge chairs and north African patterning do a fine job of transporting one out of London and into a universe all its own. Perhaps most importantly for a basement cocktail bar in current times, it’s been outfitted with an HVAC Klima-Therm purification system which ionises and circulates the air to make sure everyone is healthy and safe. Eric Lorincz, who most recently served as head bartender at The Savoy, has taken on Kwānt as his first solo venture and really opened up the throttle. His drinks list puts to use an on-site hydroponically-grown garden and ingredients such as lacto-fermented purple carrot and porcini vermouth. If it sounds outlandish, it tastes anything but. The cocktails I drink are easily the best I’ve had all year, and it’s no surprise to see why it’s winning all of the accolades it does. As I stand up to leave, Mourad rejoins the table and insists that I have another drink. I end up having three. His creative process might start with an image rather than a story, but he’s the consummate raconteur. In a time when travel is tricky if not impossible, whiling away an afternoon in one of his restaurants might be the next best thing.

Michelin-starred restauranteur, Mourad Mazouz (top) has brought north Africa and Los Angeles together to create Mo Diner, his tribute to the American institution. Deep booths and acid yellow tiles decorate the diner, which features global influences and the cocktail bar KwÄ nt, which lifts customers away from its London setting with its exciting decor

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CULTURE â&#x20AC;&#x201D; unsung heroes

Words:

Ken Kessler

DANIEL JEANRICHARD HIGHLANDS CHRONOGRAPH Genuine military chronographs are becoming prohibitively expensive, but there is a classically styled alternative thanks to Dr Gino Macaluso 138

CULTURE â&#x20AC;&#x201D; unsung heroes

Using undiluted military design themes, the JeanRichard Highlands series is a military chronograph at a fraction of the cost

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CULTURE — unsung heroes

One day, the book will be written about how the Italians created wristwatch culture. The Swiss and Japanese, and latterly the Germans, may produce the actual timepieces, but Italians taught us how to appreciate them, wear them, collect them and love them. Thirty-plus years ago, when the rest of us were relative cave-dwellers, Italian enthusiasts had already devised Rolex-mania, created all the nicknames now taken for granted (e.g ‘double-red,’ ‘cioccolatone,’ ‘Disco Volante,’ etc.), launched single-make watch auctions, deified the ‘Paul Newman’, produced watch carry cases, and enjoyed at least six newsstand magazines that I can recall. They started personalising watches with cool straps as far back as 1990; you could buy python, ostrich, shark, lizard or any other leather you like, in any colour that you craved. And along the way, they also reinvented the military watch. Credit for this goes in part to the late Dr Gino Macaluso, the man who saved Girard-Perregaux. Macaluso was the distributor for Hamilton in Italy in the 1980s, and was a key player in the success of the now-familiar Hamilton Khaki line, which at the time was a budget range sold in the USA. This was among the earliest model families – running neck-and-neck with the arrival of MHR – to use undiluted military design themes, including white numerals on black backgrounds, hacking features, and other details. To put this into context, the same period would see the rebirth of Panerai, watches based entirely on genuine military models, along with Breguet’s relaunched Type XX and many others with a military feel. In 1992, when Macaluso moved from distribution of Girard-Perregaux to ownership, the package included Daniel JeanRichard. He positioned the brand at price points below G-P, the relationship not unlike that of Tudor’s to Rolex. Initially JeanRichard watches used ETA movements, but eventually they introduced their own manufacture calibres, which pushed up the price points into G-P territory. Ultimately, matters ended up in JeanRichard’s current comatose state, but that’s a story for another time. Amidst the unusual assortment of JeanRichard models, exotics like the ‘TV Screen’ and Unitaspowered manually-wound Bressels and a plethora of handsome chronographs, was the Highlands series. Effectively a beefed-up Khaki, the base Highlands Automatic was a stunning three-hander with Hamilton-like prices, but more substantial cases and a nifty marketing gambit that would be repeated by no less a giant than Rolex in 2020: the Highlands Automatic was offered in a choice of dial colours, including black, cream, navy blue, light blue, olive green and salmon pink, fitted with with straps in complementary hues. And another thing: they were offered with fabric straps long before the ill-informed started calling them ‘NATOs’.

JeanRichard’s three-hander, with its militaristic triangle at the 12 o’clock position, Arabic numerals, hacking seconds and ETA 2824-2 movement was undoubtedly the most familiar and successful of the Highlands models, proving especially popular in Japan and Italy. When I interviewed Dr Macaluso, he told me they sold “many thousands.” However, it is the all-but-forgotten Highlands chronograph which is this month’s shoulda-woulda-coulda bargain. It too used the ETA Cal. 2824-2 25-jewel movement, but it was fitted with a Lemania module which brought the jewel count up to 51. Its layout is a classic two-button Compax array of three-subdials, with 12-hour, 30-minute, and 60-second registers. The 38mm case is a robust satin-finish AISI 316L stainless steel construct, with screwdown back and crown, so it’s rated as water-resistant to 50m. Purists will approve of the vintage-style acrylic crystal. I know of versions with black, salmon or ivory dials, but that’s not to say there weren’t others. What I can offer is this observation: with vintage Breguet, Auricoste, Dodane, Mathey-Tissot and other original Type XXs, as well as Heuer Bund models, now the preserve of deep-pocketed auction habitués, and classic RAF and Royal Navy Lemanias hitting £4,000-£8,000, genuine military chronographs are becoming prohibitively expensive. This handsome timepiece – especially with the black dial if it’s the military look which moves you – is something of a bargain at £600-£1,000 on eBay. I even saw one for £549 at Chrono24 in November. Hmmm … the words ‘no-brainer’ spring to mind. Featuring vintage-style acrylic crystal and a choice of six dial colours, the Highlands series offers an alternative to pricier RAF and Royal Navy Lemanias

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CULTURE — auction

AUCTION WATCH THIS MONTH’S BIDS AND PIECES A good deal of watch collecting centres around the icons of the past that have worn the watches in question; god knows the record-breaking sale of Paul Newman’s own Daytona for well over $17.5 million shows that. Which is precisely what makes these three watches, coming up for sale on 12th December, so desirable. Owned by the men that made them icons, these watches have provenance to spare and price tags to match. Let’s end the auction year with a bang.

STEVE MCQUEEN’S HEUER MONACO The film Le Mans made an icon of both Steve McQueen and Monaco, and it’s no surprise that for the filming the superstar was gifted a couple of them – one of which he gifted in turn to his personal mechanic, Haig Alltounian. This is that watch, as

SYLVESTER STALLONE’S PANERAI PAM5218-201/A Believe it or not, before Sylvester Stallone donned his stainless steel chunk of Italian watch in disaster film Daylight, Panerai were relatively unknown. This watch, shown throughout the 1996 film, can be considered the genesis of Panerai’s modern reputation. It also proved their watchmaking chops, given that Stallone barely removed the thing throughout filming. According to Sly, “it went through hell in every scene.” Somehow it survived, and on its original sharkskin strap too, coming out the other end in great condition. To hammer home the provenance, it’s presented here with a Daylight lobby card signed by Stallone and fully endorsing the watch. Come and get it, Paneristi. Estimate: $40-80k

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proven by a caseback engraving reading, ‘TO HAIG Le MANS 1970.’ On top of that, this particular example is in superb condition, showing the value that Alltounian placed on the watch. So you have an original iteration of an iconic racing watch, originally worn and owned by the man that made it an icon and with a nice story behind it. It’s not quite the Paul Newman Daytona, but it’s certainly up there. Estimate: Price on Request

PAUL NEWMAN’S ‘BIG RED’ DAYTONA The word’s ‘Big Red’ are already enough to get a Rolex collector’s spine tingling, but this is the ultimate example of the Reference 6263. One of the many Daytonas owned by Paul Newman, this watch was gifted to him by wife and fellow actor Joanne Woodward in 1983 for their 25th wedding anniversary, marked with a warning on the back: ‘Drive Slowly’. Perhaps even more poignantly, the watch was passed on much later to Newman’s daughter, Clea, on his deathbed. Presented in outstanding condition, despite having been used by Newman on many occasions, this is undoubtedly going to be one of the most hotlycontested lots ever seen at auction. Estimate: $350-700k All three lots will be presented at Phillips New York’s Racing Pulse sale, 12th December, along with over 130 other rare timepieces. Find out more at www.phillips.com

BACK â&#x20AC;&#x201D; in focus

IN FOCUS AN INSIGHT INTO THREE FASCINATING BRANDS Edited By

SAM KESSLER

Aevig, Hanhart and Von Doren

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BACK â&#x20AC;&#x201D; in focus

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BACK — in focus

AEVIG Whenever you hear the words ‘vintage’ or ‘retro’ in the microbrand market, it’s easy to roll your eyes and imagine yet another homage brand, a watch label whose whole raison d’etre is catering to those that can’t afford a vintage Rolex. There are a lot of them out there and more every year. Fortunately, Aevig is not one of those. Sure, the Danish brand’s designs are inspired by the 60s and 70s, arguably the heydays of horological design, but there’s nothing copy and paste about them. In fact, they’re some of the most individual and diverse - microbrand offerings around. Back in 2013, Aevig’s diversity consisted of just one watch: the Corvid Field Watch, a deceptively simple and asymmetrical take on a classic military style, complete with a far more graphical dial to complement the stripped-back, utilitarian aesthetic. It was cool, and a lot of microbrands would rely on variations of that first watch until they’d exhausted it; then started re-releasing from step one. Not Aevig. Instead, over the past few years they have released five different timepieces, each that are distinct in feel and purpose. Possibly the best-known (for good reason) is the Huldra Diver, with its 60s case shape and funky dial, complete with octagonal indexes. It has all the elements that have made retro divers in vogue without relying too much on obvious gimmicks, backed by a solid specs sheet. There have been more too: the sporty Valkyr, the compressor-cased Balaur and the Thor dresswatch have very little in common between them except for Aevig’s approach to watch design. That is to say, to take what makes those kinds of watches appealing and provide their own twist, to see what traits make a watch iconic and then to reinterpret them into something new. The next project though is what has us most excited. There are plenty of divers and field watches around, but a tonneau sports watch? That’s a rarity that normally gets more associated with the likes of Richard Mille than the ranks of microbrands. Seeing a well-priced, well-designed take on the format – particularly with the proposed GMT function – promises to be as attention-grabbing as the Huldra, if not more. For now though, we’ll have to make do with Aevig’s already-impressive collection, which we’re happy to do. After all, they may stand out from the crowd but the pricing is typical of what makes microbrands so appealing. In short, they are very, very affordable. With a solidly built 42mm case and all the diving necessities, including a 200m water resistance, and with an ever-reliable Miyota 90S5 movement inside

Aevig have added five new watches to their individual and distinct range in recent years

It has all the elements that have made retro divers in vogue without relying too much on gimmicks (for the non-date version of course, the objectively superior model), you’re looking at €650. In context, that’s just over £580. In further context, that’s incredibly good. Find out more at aevig.com

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HANHART 417 ES

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The legendary German chronograph returns, backed by distinctly modern specs There are enough re-issues that, if it weren’t for a couple of decades of incredible horological creativity back in the 60s and 70s, then we’d be genuinely worried about watchmaking archives running dry. As it is, re-issues are becoming the bread-and-butter of limited edition drops from some of the biggest watchmakers of the moment – which makes it all the more impressive that one of the most exciting comes from under-the-radar heritage German watchmaker Hanhart. Back in the 1950s, Hanhart was chosen to start building a pilot’s chronographs for the German armed forces based on three criteria: Robustness, reliability and readability. It’s a triumvirate of traits that many a mil-spec watch can identify with, but in this case the result was the cult legend that is the Hanhart 417. Despite a run of just ten years, the 417 is one of the most sought-after vintage German chronographs, making it ripe for a re-run almost 60 years later in the form of the Hanhart 417 ES. The ES, in case you were wondering, stands for Edelstahl, the German for stainless steel. Visually the new chronograph is authentic to its roots. That means sharply drawn and polished lugs, an incredible, smoothly-rotating, bidirectional fluted bezel with its red positional markings and numerals ripped straight from the 1950s original. To hammer home those archival roots, the dial even shows the vintage Hanhart logo, mirrored on the crown. Of course, there are some concessions to the modern state of watchmaking. For one, the 39mm case of the 50s has been upped to a more contemporary 42mm. While it does maintain the same kind of

thinness as the original, remarkably elegant for a military watch, I’d have personally liked to see the vintage sizing as an option. Still, the 417’s only just made its return; there’s space for downsizing in the future. The other nods to modernity are firmly in performance. First, the vintage lume has been replaced with SuperLuminova in a soft cream for a distinct but not eye-watering contrast with the matte black dial. Secondly, the movement is the Sellita SW 510, an ever-reliable and – most importantly – hand-wound calibre. That means a power reserve of 58 hours. The final performance improvement is the depth

resistance. While the original was all but aquaphobic, the 417 ES has a solid water resistance of 100m. Fitted to a black calfskin leather strap with a comfortable Alcantara backing, the Hanhart 417 ES straddles the best of both worlds. It’s vintage styling is flawless (bar the issue I have with the size, of course) and is paired with a respectable specs sheet. It’s also eminently affordable, something you don’t often get with re-issues, let alone one of such a soughtafter vintage piece. The 417 ES will set you back 1,790 Euros – just over £1,600. That’s not bad at all. Find out more at hanhart.com

Robustness, reliability and readability form the trio of traits that defined the original Hanhart 417 and the re-issued 417 ES

Despite a run of just ten years, the 417 is one of the most sought-after vintage German chronographs 149

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VON DOREN The idyllic town of Aalesund on the west coast of Norway is about as quietly picturesque as a Scandinavian seaside settlement can get. Part of that is thanks to the breathtaking landscape, which is complemented by the town’s striking Art Nouveau architecture, a style established in the wake of a fire in 1904. That’s all nice to know, isn’t it? If we could travel at the moment, it might well make it on your list of must-visit Norwegian locales. But we’re obviously not here to discuss Aalesund’s local fjords, but what’s put the town on the map most recently: Von Doren. Aalesund might seem like a remote place to start a watch brand, but for founder Øyvind VonDoren Asbjørnsen there could be nowhere else. It’s not just that his aesthetic sensibilities have been shaped by the town’s architecture, though Von Doren’s watches obviously take a few cues from there. No, it’s because of one of the region’s most famous figures, Ole Brude. Back in 1904 (yes, the same year as the fire; no, nothing to do with it), Ole Brude set sail from Norway to the USA, across the Atlantic aboard a lifeboat he had designed himself. It was a bold expedition, one that was intended to prove a point: that the world needed a better lifeboat. The boat itself was shaped like an iron egg with a sail on top, protecting those inside like a cocoon. It certainly looked outlandish but was an innovative concept. Unfortunately Brude and his crew never quite made it to their destination of St. Louis due to inclement weather and, at the time, the design never really took off. It did however get the recognition it deserved in the 1970s, when Brude’s design was finally hailed as the achievement it was. The ships name, by the way, was URÆD. Brude’s story was just the seed Von Doren needed as a starting point, one that has led to the fledgling brand’s first timepiece: the honorarilynamed URÆD. Part ode to Art Nouveau, part nautical-inspired elegant adventure watch, the URÆD is a fitting start to Von Doren’s own adventure. Rounded like classical timepieces from the early 1900s, the watch skirts the line between traditional and contemporary with its trio of lovely dial colours. Of the trio – lava black, Atlantic blue and sea green – our favourite has to be the latter. Regardless of the colour, all three come on

Von Doren’s debut timepiece (above) comes in three dial colours and its face takes inspiration from the URÆD lifeboat (right) that attempted to sail the Atlantic from Norway in 1904

Part ode to Art Nouveau, part nautical-inspired elegant adventure watch, the URÆD is a fitting start to Von Doren’s adventure either a stainless steel bracelet or a rubber strap and, more intriguingly, either English or Norwegian weekdays at 12 o’clock. If you need an excuse to learn a bit of Norwegian, this is it. As a final touch, each timepiece has an engraving on the caseback of Ole Brude’s seminal lifeboat, the inspiration behind Von Doren. Powered by a solid STP 4-13 automatic movement and at a price that’s far more accessible than you’d expect from its handsome good looks, URÆD isn’t just a stellar debut watch from a new microbrand; it’s a fitting tribute to Ole Brude’s phenomenal nautical accomplishments and the sleepy yet beautiful town he set off from. Find out more at vondoren.com

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oracle insights

O r a c le

INSIGHTS

TVT Vintage Burberry Sunglasses

WHAT’S ON OUR SHOPPING LIST AND WHY

MULBERRY X VESPA ELETTRICA 70 British style meets a true Italian classic in this custom collaborative project between Mulberry and Piaggio, makers of the iconic two-wheeler. Draped in the brand’s signature green and tree logo, it’s not just the dose of retro riviera chic you’ve been craving in your life; it’s also surprisingly practical with 100km of autonomy and a four-hour recharge time. Sure, we’re a long way away from the winding streets of Rome, but don’t let that stop you. £7,195, www.mulberry.com

BOSPHOROUS LEATHER GALATA SCRIPTO WATCH ROLL Where else are you going to sequester your elegantly patinated, pre-Vendome Panerais than this? Offering a similar finish to Berluti’s famous Scritto leather, this fume leather in a lustrous tan is finished with engraved script detailing like an old scroll case. Instead, it has room for four different watches, with enough space for that aforementioned Mare Nostrum to sit comfortably, right where it deserves, surrounded by natural, velvety suede. £300.99, www.bosphorusleather.com

Secret Speyside The clue’s in the name. In the past, even the most die-hard of whisky aficionados will have had a hard time getting hold of the liquids under the Secret Speyside moniker, a new initiative to shine the spotlight on the most illusive single malts and blends from the capital of perfectly-balanced Scotch. Ranging from 18 to 30 years old, these whiskies come from Glen Keith, Longmorn, Braes of Glenlivet and the vanished Caeperdonich distillery, making for an incredible range. £88 - £875, www.secretspeyside.com

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They don’t make sunglasses like they used to. Fortunately at The Vintage Trap, that’s not an issue. The retro eyewear maestros source perfectcondition frames from around the world, new and unworn from anywhere between the 70s and 90s. This Austrian-made pair from Burberry is pure class and even comes with the original signature check case. As a finishing individual touch you can get the lens hand-dipped, in case you really wanted to take rose-tinted literally. £389, thevintagetrap.com

GIRARD-PERREGAUX LAUREATO GHOST Working with the bespoke watch maestros at Bamford Watch Department, Girrard-Perregaux is celebrating the 45th anniversary of their 70s icon, the Laureato in this crisp white take on the luxury sports timepiece. Made from full ceramic, including the bracelet, it marks the first custom Laureato from Bamford and is also one of the only times you’ll see them working in white. Limited to a mere 45 pieces, it’s one of the coolest Laureatos around - and that’s really saying something. £12,000, www.girardperregaux.com

oracle insights

Swiss Kubik Masterbox Racing If the average watch box just isn’t racy enough for you, try this perforated leather number from Swiss Kubik. The aerated black leather is stitched with contrasting bright yellow for the kind of quintessential sports style that just needs a 1950s tachymeter-equipped chronograph to set it off. Simple and elegant in looks but housing the brand’s innovative, Bluetoothcontrollable winding system underneath, it’ll keep your watches’ engine running without you having to think about it. £995, www.swisskubik.com

Ever felt like the bikes from Tron just weren’t futuristic enough? With its carbon fibre monocoque frame housing a multitude of technologies, the Novus has you covered. It’s both ultra-light and powerful, combining a smooth ride with app connectivity, all wrapped up in a clean look Elon Musk would kill for. The bike of the future is here. Well, almost. Pre-orders are now open. €51,094.52, www.novusbike.com

THE NOVUS BIKE

AIR JORDAN 1 RETRO HI OG Sneakerheads prepare to sweat into your vintage Reeboks as Nike has announced their 2021 line-up of throwback retro kicks, covering a multitude of designs taken straight from the sports brand’s greatest hits. Take these for example, a new take on the Air Jordan 1 with its University Blue colourway and vintage black winged logo. They’re almost too cool to wear. Almost. $170, www.nike.com

OLIVER BROWN CHELTENHAM GIFT BOX

Impatia Filotto Italian design house Impatia is all about redesigning the classics, and there’s nothing more classical – at least if you’re curating any sort of games room – than the billiards table. In this instance, the table itself is made from clear glass with an Italian slate playing surface covered with fine cloth. It’s a world away from the green-draped, beaten-up table at your local boozer. Forget a pint; this deserves a Negroni at the very least. £58,410, www.impatia.com

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A woolly jumper for Christmas isn’t exactly the most inventive gift in the world. But a tie, five pocket squares and a tweed face mask? Now we’re talking. This gift set from Oliver Brown is inspired by the Great British outdoors with its fun animal-themed accessories and countryside colours. It’ll have you feeling like the lord of the manor, even if calling your central London patch of grass an ‘estate’ is a bit of a stretch. £195, www.oliverbrown.org.uk

BACK — microbrand corner

MICROBRAND

CORNER From avant-garde accessibility to niche haute horology, this is the latest and greatest from the creative world of microbrands

THE SPECS

• 38mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • caliber NH35A automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve • £395, paulinwatches.com

Paulin

x anOrdain Neo C As Scottish as an Irn Bru-drenched Haggis, this collaborative effort between Glasgow-based Paulin and anOrdain is one of the funkiest microbrand releases of the past few months. The anodized aluminium dial in blue, lilac, orange and red is ripped straight out of the 80s. Backed by a caliber NH35A and capped with a Moonwatch-esque hesalite crystal, this is one of the coolest things you can own for under £500. paulinwatches.com

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THE SPECS

• 45mm titanium case with 100m water resistance • CA S24-SK8 automatic movement with 36-hour power reseve • £2,406, creuxautomatiq.com

Creux

Ghost V3 Mono A far more modern take on automotive-inspired design, the latest generation of Creux’s iconoclastic Ghost series offers serious performance for less than you’d expect. A mix of titanium and forged carbon, complete with an openworked dial showing the in-house movement, it’s big, bold and brassy, with all the style you’d expect from some of the more avant-garde high-end watchmakers out there. If you’re a fan of industrial monochrome and high-octane design, this is one for you. creuxautomatiq.com

It’s big, bold and brassy, with all the style you’d expect from some of the more avant-garde high-end watchmakers out there

Circula AquaSport

Combining the sleek, utilitarian look of 70s skindivers with a seriously cool palette of bright colours, the latest depth-defying timepiece from German brand Circula is one of the most eye-catching watches coming out of Pforzheim. Each piece a versatile 39mm across, boasts 200m water resistance and comes with one of three automatic movements. Visually though, the standout is the Petrol, with its turquoise and blue bezel and wavy, Seamasteresque dial.

THE SPECS

• 39mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Calibre STP1-11, ETA 2824 or COSC-certified Sellita SW 200 automatic movement • From €486.42 (approx. £439), circulawatches.com

circulawatches.com

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THE SPECS • 37mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Miyota 82S5 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • $368 (approx. £275), vario.sg

Vario

1918 Trench Watch The original trench watches were developed, as so many new technologies are, in wartime, and were a practical upgrade from officers’ pocket watches that were designed to be durable, readable and reliable. Vario’s latest project is a new take on that formula, with the same oversized Arabic numerals and vintage case shape. There are some modern nods of course, such as copious lume, a Miyota movement and some very handsome dials. Very handsome indeed. vario.sg

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THE SPECS • 42mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • SII NE-88 Automatic movement with 45-hour power reserve • $1,250 (approx. £935), soldatwatch.com

Soldat

Automatic Chronograph

We couldn’t do a retro issue without hunting down a seriously cool vintagestyled microbrand racing watch and Soldat’s signature automatic chronograph ticks every box. A solid three-counter column-wheel chronograph styled to look like a retro bi-compax, the watch is particularly

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handsome in the Lotus-inspired Green Forty Nine colourway, predominantly green with delicate flashes of yellow. With its generously curved 42mm case and perforated matching racing strap, this is a serious and near perfect sports chronograph from Japan. soldatwatch.com

END — moviewatch

M OVIE WATC H

LA Confidential From the impeccable neo-noir style to the script adapted by the master of hard-boiled dialogue that is James Ellroy, LA Confidential oozes style, swagger and vintage cool. The proposed sequel might have been put on hold for the moment, but at least we can get excited for another filmic visit to the seedy underbelly of LA with a look at the original film’s pitch-perfect timepieces. It’s a classic so we’ll assume that you’ve seen it already, but just in case, the film follows three cops trying to solve a murder in 1950s LA, each with their own motives for doing so. Corruption, revenge, high stakes, it has all the ingredients of the kind of classic noirs we just don’t get any more.

VERY HUSH-HUSH

Kevin Spacey’s character wears an elegant and stylised vintage Bulova (left)

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Of course, while watching Kevin Spacey on film now has a few connotations we’d rather not dwell on, it was also the film that brought Russell Crowe and Guy Pearce to the mainstream, with Kim Basinger quite rightly winning the Oscar for Best Supporting Actress. Equally worthy of a supporting credit is whoever decided on the periodappropriate watches. The watch worn by Pearce’s Ed Huxley for example wears a nice, minimal 1940s-style Rolex Bubbleback, complete with bombe lugs and lovely silver-white dial. As a family heirloom handed down from his father, the Rolex all but defines Huxley’s character. While it’s supposed to be an early automatic though, you can pretty clearly see it tick in the film, suspiciously like a quartz stand-in. Spacey’s Jack Vincennes on the other hand sports a far more modest timepiece, yet no less stylish, in a vintage Bulova. It’s just as elegant, a touch more stylised and one of the most aestheticallyappropriate additions to the film. Both are similar and both say a lot about their fictional wearers. They’re certainly not the only reason the film was critically-lauded, but it can’t hurt.