Oracle Time - Issue 62 - May

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .62

60 Years of

GRAND SEIKO LOCKDOWN, LOUNGEWEAR & THE ULTIMATE MICROBRAND GUIDE

ISSUE 62

5.95

£

ORACLE TIME #62

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Fraser Vincent Watch: Grand Seiko Ref. 3180 grand-seiko.com

Isolation. We’re all in it, we all know what it is and we’re all slowly losing our sanity, sense of time and state of cleanliness to it. The days bleed one into another, routines get lost in the mix and I’ve started talking to myself on a regular basis, despite living with my partner.

But hey, it’s not all doom and gloom! Isolation is a chance to learn new skills, better ourselves ready for our re-emergence into the wider world. Or something.

I can now juggle and pick a lock, for example. By the end of lock-down, who knows?

If a thieving circus hand isn’t quite your speed though, how about trying your hand at a Michelin star quiche courtesy of Michel Roux Jr? Or a cocktail from the worldfamous Artesian at the Langham? We have both, on pages 124 and 126 respectively.

And hey, if it all goes wrong, you can always order in; check out the take-out offerings on page 121.

It’s not all about ourselves though; this is also a chance to better our homes.

After all, I’m pretty sure we’re all desperate for a change of scenery, even if that scenery is still within the same four walls. At the very least, with our ideas for creating the ultimate isolation pad, you’ll be well-prepared should you find yourself under virulent siege once again next pandemic. And no, it doesn’t involve hoarding all the toilet roll. You should have done that already.

If changing yourself is too big a task and changing your house is too disruptive, then why not start with something smaller? As Nick Carvell writes, the secret to a tidy mind might well be a tidy wardrobe – and once you’ve made all that space, you can fill it up with clothes you’re actually going to wear. Think trackies, pajamas and other assorted loungewear. It’s not like you’re leaving the house any time soon, is it?

Don’t worry though, we won’t harp on about being stuck inside through the whole issue; I’m sure you get enough of that on a daily basis from your partner, kids or the steadily more dishevelled face in the mirror. In the watch world there’s still been plenty going on from the big industry players.

The big watch shows may have been cancelled, but that hasn’t slowed the horological release schedule. Indeed, a vast swath of what’s coming up in 2020 dropped just last week, the highlights of which you can find in our extended Introducing section on the Watches & Wonders that would have been.

At the other end of the spectrum, we have something we’ve been working on for a while now: our ultimate guide to microbrands. From cool Kickstarter launches and retro diving watches to… well, more Kickstarter launches and retro diving watches, we highlight some of the best watches from small, young, independent brands pitting themselves against the big boys. Everyone loves an underdog.

At the very least I hope this isolation issue staves off the cabin fever for just a few more hours, helps you get away from the problems of now – or at least shunt them down the road a little. Just do yourself a favour: do not, I repeat do NOT, turn to our travel section on page 135. Nobody deserves that kind of torture.

And above all else, stay safe and stay sane.

Sam Kessler, Editor

KEEP IN TOUCH: instagram.com/otmagazine | @oracle_time | facebook.com/oracleoftime | oracleoftime.com

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ORACLE TIME #62

CONTRIBUTORS What are you doing during isolation?

Nick Carvell

A lifelong fan of double denim (even triple on occasion), Nick started his career as Social Media Editor of mrporter.com before working as Associate Style Editor at British GQ then Editor of The Jackal. He is now a freelance menswear editor, writing from lockdown at his kitchen table in South London.

“Between feeling unproductive and seeing everyone on social media working out, making gourmet meals and learning new skills, I’ve switched off a little, giving myself a bit of a break. It’s good to give your brain room to breathe.”

Amira Arasteh

doesn’t eat to live; she lives to eat.

An avid foodie, she appreciates all good food, from marketstall traders to Michelin-starred restaurants. In the rare moments she’s not eating she’s covering fashion, beauty, tech and travel.

“As I’m having to cook for myself, I’ve actually had to learn to use the oven and what all the different pots and pans are for. How do professional chefs make it all look so easy?!”

Aidy Smith

is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers. He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped.

“Right now I’m being as productive as possible so that when we get out of this situation I’ll be one step ahead of the curve. Oh, and drinking vast amounts of booze. Obviously.”

WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE

EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk SUB EDITOR

Alex Briand alexbriand4@gmail.com DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent DIRECTORS

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4615

Anna Sebastian

is bar manager of the Artesian Bar at the Langham Hotel, London.

Believes one should always have a bottle of Champagne ready to drink in the fridge at home. Loves nothing more than watching a sunset on a beach with a cold drink and plenty of snacks.

“I’m staying sane by keeping as much of as structure as possible to my day – including, of course, cocktail hour!”

George Parker george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4616 ACCOUNT MANAGER

Amber Heyman-Hunter Amber@opulentmedia.o.uk OT MAGAZINE is published monthly

by Opulent Media 020 7871 4615

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ORACLE TIME #62

CONTENTS

1

OT M AG A ZIN E / ISSU E 62

18 — AFICIONADO

40 — GRAND SEIKO

We reveal what’s on our radar and what should be on your shopping list this month

The reference 3180 was Taro Tanaka’s first attempt to design the perfect watch.

On its 60th anniversary, it’s back

24 — NEWS

A round-up of the latest happenings in London, luxury living and, of course, the best in horology

34 — FACETIME

Watch collections of the rich and famous – this issue it’s Stormzy

36 — THE ORACLE SPEAKS

Your crash-course in online watch shopping, while shops remain shuttered

“Sixty years on, by the end of the next Zodiac cycle, you can be damn sure these three watches will be just as timeless as they are now” Grand Seiko — p40

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ORACLE TIME #62

CONTENTS

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49 — MICROBRANDS

103

Your ultimate guide to the smaller scale of watchmaking

73 — ISOLATION SHOOT Our favourite watches that suit the home

86 — WARDROBE DECLUTTERING

Why you should take this time to rethink and reorganise your clothing

93 — STYLE EDIT 49

Get the look – how to stay comfortable and stylish (and Zoom-presentable) at home

93

CULTURE

103 — THE ULTIMATE ISOLATION PAD

“Restaurants big and small are delivering during the lockdown so you don’t have to go without your fine-dining favourites for long”

121

121 126 135

Food Drink Travel

________________________________

_______________________________

____________________________

Restaurants — p121

135

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Stuck at home? Here’s how to make the best of it

116 — WATCH REVIEWS

Models from Aevig and Omega under the spotlight

139 — IN FOCUS

A deep dive into one of our favourite modern makers – March LA.B

143 — IMPULSE BUY Two watches to snap up right now

FRONT — aficionado

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

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FRONT — aficionado

DOUBLE RAINBOW

Rolex may have killed it with the rainbow-bezelled Daytona but Parmigiani has gone one step above with the Tonda 1950 Double Rainbow Flying Toubillon. Not only is the bezel set with various coloured stones, but the subdial is, too. The rest of the dial is fully diamond-encrusted, with the final flourish being a double tourbillon at 7 o’clock.

It’s a showstopper in the best possible way… but what does it mean?

Euro 178,000, parmigiani.com

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FRONT — aficionado

THE ULTIMATE TWIN SET

Paying homage to one of the most enduring partnerships in cars – Aston Martin and Zagato – custom car maker R-Reforged has built the Aston Martin Vantage V12 Zagato Heritage Coupé and Speedster. There are only 38 cars total, only available as pairs, and most are already gone.

Which is a shame, seeing as they are beyond stunning – particularly the sculpted, gold speedster. This is a price-on-application affair, but be sure this Zagato-inspired heritage pairing won’t be cheap. r-reforged.com

FENDER BENDER

Every supercar deserves a rock ‘n’ roll soundtrack, but the superb Saleen 1 actually has one, courtesy of Fender Dream Factory. The legendary guitar maker’s custom workshop has built a one-off Stratocaster inspired by the car, complete with the Saleen’s signature Candy Apple Red. Whether it sounds as good as it looks we wouldn’t know, but you won’t be able to help but feel like a rock god with this thing. $33,000, unique piece, fender.com

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FRONT — aficionado

VOLLEBAK IN BLACK

After its colour changing jacket last year, cutting-edge designer Vollebak has turned its rolling, maddened eyes towards durability.

The result is the Dyneema jacket, an insulated puffer that’s nigh-on indestructible. The material in question is 15x stronger than steel, was originally used to stop high-velocity bullets and, in jacket form, will keep you snug down to -40°C. When explorers find your bones hundreds of years from now, they’ll know what great taste in outerwear you had. £795, vollebak.com

HAVANA CLUB TRIBUTO 2020

It’s that time again that rum lovers rejoice over: the latest Tributo expression from Havana Club. This is Cuban rum at its finest and this year the themed release highlights the unique blending process of the distillery. Every time a blend is aged, a portion of it is put aside for use in future rum production. This means that there’s a good chance what you’re tasting is very, very old. In the case of Tributo 2020, the liquid has been blended from previous Tributo reserves, which have then been re-aged and blended with a rum drawn from a never-released batch of 100 casks. The result, in many ways, is a tribute to Tributo – and it’s extraordinary.

PURDEY SUNGLASSES

You can’t take a good shot with the sun in your eyes – or at least, that seems to be the thinking behind gunmaker Purdey’s new range of limited edition sunglasses. Gun nut or not though, these are some stylish shades, particularly the sleek, sharp, Italianmade Weekender. You don’t need a hand-crafted British gun to wear them… but it helps.

Euro 400, havana-club.com

£695, limited edition of 100, purdey.com

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FRONT — aficionado

ON YOUR BIKE

Home fitness is booming now that it’s the only option, but don’t worry about filling your apartment with the usual ugly, budget gym castoffs. The Ciclotte is part workout, part art piece, with its single huge belt for peddling and sculptural outlook. It achieves different levels of resistance using electromagnetism, because of course it does.

It comes in a few colours, but only a fool wouldn’t go for red. Red always goes faster. It’s a fact. £9,885, ciclotte.com

TOP (BOOK) SHELF SPEAKERS

sonus faber’s full-size loudspeakers are a thing of Italian-made beauty, sculptural, elegant – and that’s just the sound. Its latest though takes that formula and shrinks it down to fit on your bookshelf with the Minima Amator II. Inspired by the manufacturer’s original diminutive speakers, these are among the most magnificent pintsized powerhouses you can find. They don’t look half bad either.

£3,898, sonusfaber.com

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EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS

STREAM A SAFARI If Tiger King taught us anything it’s that you can’t trust a trigger-happy hillbilly with endangered species. But if rewatching the escapades of Joe Exotic isn’t enough of a big cat fix for you, three game reserves are offering a real-life taste of safari from the comfort of your own home.

The trio in question consists of andBeyond Ngala, Singita and Virgin Limited Edition’s Ulusaba Game Reserve, which rank among the most exclusive reserves in the world. The first is streamed via broadcaster WildEarth, while the other two keep the action to Instagram TV. All are led by professional rangers and, while the curse of a safari is that you might not see what you want to see, they’re held twice a day. It’s not the real thing, but at least your arm won’t get ripped off andbeyond.com, singita.com, virginlimitededition.com

TYLER, THE CREATOR X SPENCER MCMULLEN For the latest instalment in the rapper’s ongoing collaboration with Converse, Tyler, The Creator has enlisted Spencer McMullen in his Artist Series. Using the iconic Chuck 70 as his canvas, McMullen has created a limited edition doodled with lifelike drawings contrasting with off-kilter cartoons and scrawled writing, an incredibly cool mash-up – if you can manage to get your hands on a pair. They’re going for $100 and they’re going quick. converse.com

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FRONT — world news

RAID MOMA’S ARCHIVES If quarantine keeps up much longer, MoMA will be the single most important art museum in the world – not that it’s far off now.

First, it began offering free art classes to help keep people sane; now it’s letting you open up your own creative library by selling off some of its rarest art books.

These are tomes that have been stored in the museum’s archive for years, decades even, and cover a

vast cross-section of art and architecture.

Just head to the website to find some incredibly rare – and a few incredibly pricey – volumes with a top end of $2,500. That’s a good deal more impressive than whatever coffee table photography book you currently use to impress guests. Not that you’ll have any for a while, obviously. store.moma.com

THE END (OF BASELWORLD) IS NIGH AN ECO-FRIENDLY ’63 MERC Classic cars aren’t exactly known for saving the rainforests, especially something as big and iconically luxurious as the Mercedes-Benz 230 SL. Now though you can own a pedigreed car like that without worrying about the fumes sputtering out the rear. Britiain’s Iconic Cars is offering to convert your ancient motor into a flashy new electric number, keeping the outside pristine while switching up the entire drivetrain. Think of it as future-proofing your currently gas-guzzling car so you can actually use it in ten years’ time. And hey, all conversions are 100-per-cent reversible, so if you feel like its lost its soul (or just want to save the resale value) you’re covered. iconiccars.com

MCLAREN AGAINST COVID-19 It takes a lot of mechanical know-how to produce a hypercar; it takes more than that to create a McLaren. So it’s no surprise that the British marque can turn its hand to many an engineering challenge, including helping supply the UK with a huge number of desperately needed ventilators. Both the Woking factory and the F1 workshop will be producing the ventilators, while the electronics division will be developing testing equipment to ensure they’re all working. The net result is that McLaren is aiming to produce 10,000 machines to hospitals around the UK, helping to bolster the strained supply. First they build machines that take your breath away, now they’re giving it back. mclaren.com

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If you had your ear to the ground you might have seen this coming, but Baselworld, in the past the most important watch show of the year, may well be no more. After hemmoraging brands for years, the two pillars holding it up – Rolex and Patek Philippe – have finally left, followed by TAG Heuer, Zenith and Hublot, putting the entire show on ground shakier than the San Andreas Fault.

There is some light at the end of the tunnel though: Rolex, Patek and a number of other watchmakers will be setting up their own show in the horological heartland of Geneva. What form this will take and when, only time will tell, but one thing’s for sure: it’s when some of the most hotly anticipated timepieces in the world will be launched. Watch this space.

If you had your ear to the ground you might have seen this coming, but Baselworld may well be no more

FRONT — world news

RALPH LAUREN’S EARTH-SAVING POLO First the designer donated $10m to help fight Coronavirus, now this – Ralph Lauren has taken it upon himself to save the world, and he’s doing a damn good job of it.

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of World Earth Day, the American label has reworked its famous polo shirt in the Earth Polo capsule collection. Each shirt is made from 12 recycled plastic bottles in available in 19 colours, created using waterless dyeing techniques.

If you care about the environment at all, it’s hard not to applaud Ralph Lauren’s initiative and, even if you don’t (Greta Thunberg wants words) these are some seriously cool, seasonal polos for £95. ralphlauren.co.uk

BUFFALO TRACE KEEPS KOSHER There are a few things you expect at Passover; gefilte fish, brisket, matzo ball soup, the usual kosher delights of Seder. Generally bourbon ain’t one of them. That’s because surprising at it seems, it’s hard to ensure that whisky is Kosher. The barrels its aged in can’t have held any wine for one thing, and even then most whiskies settle for not being Kosher. Buffalo Trace on the other hand has released a trio of Rabbicertified expressions – rye, straight rye and wheat versions – that have been in the works since the first grains were being grown. Now that they’re finally available, after a painstaking process avoiding any and all chametz contamination, we have part collector’s item, part orthodox tipple. L’Chaim! $39.99 a bottle, buffalotrace.com

If you care about the environment, it’s hard not to applaud Ralph Lauren’s initiative

G U E S S THE WATCH

what is the With its distinctive, oversized crown, you should have recognised Graham’s Chronofighter pretty quickly; despite being a Swiss brand the company has an irrepressibly British heritage, perfect for last issue’s theme.

This month though might be a little harder – though if we picked this watch’s more famous brother, you’d likely get it in a second. If only you could see the signature bezel…

What is the watch?

Check back next issue for the answer.

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WATCH

?

FRONT — introducing

NEWS

INTRO DUCING Watches and Wonders may have been a bust but you can’t keep a good watchmaker down. In this time of isolation, here’s what we would have seen

IWC

Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

IN DETAIL

With the extension and refinement of IWC’s entire perenniallynautical Portugieser collection comes a few new complications, including some svelte perpetual calendars and this, the only time a moon phase is useful. Balancing the traditional moon phase at 12 o’clock, the second subdial, once set, will tell you your local tides. Complete with a rose gold and blue sport luxe look, it’s a watch to wear around the marina for more than showing off.

A little bit more, anyway.

44.6mm rose gold case with • 30m water resistance • IWC calibre 82835 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • £30,800 • iwc.com •

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FRONT — introducing

A LANGE & SOHNE Odysseus White Gold

Lange has now dropped any pretence of its sports luxe watch being a practical timepiece and dipped the Genta-inspired design in precious metal. Along with a 40.5mm white gold case this new take comes with a refined grey dial. It’s a sophisticated tone-on-tone look, with just a red 60 at 12 o’clock to add a bit of colour and equipped with the Odysseus’ exclusive L155.1 DATOMATIC calibre automatic movement – a fine next chapter in Lange’s newest epic.

IN DETAIL

40.5mm white gold case with 120m water resistance • L155.1 DATOMATIC automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve • Approx. £34,500 • alange-soehne.com •

MONTBLANC

Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Limited Edition

Once again Montblanc is raiding the archives of its Minerva manufacture for inspiration and the results are more eloquently vintage than ever, especially this medically inspired doctor’s watch.

Following the previous salmon-dialled edition, this version uses a lovely tobacco-brown sfumato (smoked) number and a rose gold case. That all said, the movement side might be even prettier…

IN DETAIL

40mm rose gold case water resistant to 50m MB M13.21 calibre automatic monopusher chronograph movement with 55-hour power reserve • Limited to 100 Pieces, Approx. £31,380 • montblanc.com • •

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FRONT — introducing

IN DETAIL

41.5mm rose gold case with 50m water resistance 1120 QPSQ/1 Calibre automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • £121,000, vacheron-constantin.com • •

VACHERON CONSTANTIN Overseas QP Skeleton

We love the Overseas, particularly the ever-elegant perpetual calendar. There’s a reason it’s graced our cover and if Vacheron’s latest take on its sports-luxe timepiece is anything to go by, it may well do so again.

The dial here has been skeletonised to within an inch of its life, hammering home the technical, haute-horology credentials behind the Overseas. It retains that signature case and notched bezel, but this new calendar is more of a statement than ever before. We want it.

IN DETAIL • 41mm cobalt-based alloy case water resistant to 30m • Altiplano Ultimate Concept case-integrated calibre with 40-hour power reserve • POA • en.piaget.com

PIAGET

Altiplano Ultimate Concept

Back in 2018 Piaget revealed its concept for the thinnest timepiece ever built; now, the Altiplano Ultimate has gone into fully-fledged production – and it’s stunning. Thanks to its movement-integrated case and winding crown, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept comes in at just 2mm thin. This is microengineering at its most elegant and even Bulgari will be looking at this thing disbelievingly. Most impressively, you can customise the watch with different colours and finishes to build your perfect record-breaking timepiece.

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FRONT — introducing

JAEGER-LECOULTRE Master Control Calendar

This 50s-inspired revamp of the 1992 Master Control takes a complication that Jaeger-LeCoultre dominated in the 1940s and 50s, the triple calendar moon-phase, and updates it with a strikingly modern new design.

An outwardly sloping bezel, clean, understated layout and updated chronometry make for a refreshing departure from the Art Deco, particularly in the steel-cased (as opposed to the rose gold alloy) model.

IN DETAIL

•

40mm stainless steel case water resistant to 50m • Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 866 automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve • £9,800, jaeger-lecoultre.com

CARTIER

Santos-Dumont “La Demoiselle” Limited Edition

Taking inspiration from the life and times of Cartier’s patron saint of aviation, this quartet of limited edition pieces offers something a little different. Our favourite is the extralarge “La Demoiselle”, which takes its aesthetic cues from Santos-Dumont’s signature Panama hat with a textured cream dial and matching strap. On the back you’ll find an engraving of the aviator’s most elegant design for a flying machine, the eponymous “La Demoiselle.” Oh, and it comes with a cabochon-matching pair of cufflinks.

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IN DETAIL

46.6mm platinum case with 30m water resistance • Cartier 430 MC calibre automatic movement with 38hour power reserve • £37,400, Limited to 30 pieces, • cartier.com •

FRONT — introducing

IN DETAIL

38mm rose gold case with 30m water resistance 6901 Calibre manual-wind movement with 50-hour power reserve • POA • faberge.com

• •

FABERGE

Compliquée Peacock Emerald

While much the same as the 2015 piece that first introduced this magnificent complication, this new emerald and diamond version is no less spectacular for it. Backed by the phenomenal Agenhor movement, the peacock’s tail feathers mark retrograde minutes against a backdrop of precious stones and mother-of-pearl, all set within an elegant 38mm case. This is haute horology and haute joaillerie in one show-stopping package.

IN DETAIL

• 44mm FibratechTM case with 300m water resistance • P.9010 Calibre automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve • £14,300, panerai.com

PANERAI

Luminor Marina FibratechTM

Another year, another new, cuttingedge material. At least Panerai’s is down-to-Earth… by which we mean it’s made from unidirectional fibres of basalt. Obviously. Dubbed FibratechTM, it’s light, hardwearing and has an unusual grain and grey colouring. The first watch to use it is the Luminor Marina, paired with an ocean blue graded dial and a CarbotechTM bezel, because one space-age material just isn’t enough.

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FRONT — introducing

IN DETAIL

43mm white gold case with 30m water resistance • Hermès Manufacture H1837 movement with 45-hour power reserve • Limited to 36 pieces £42,000, • hermes.com •

HERMÈS

Arceau L’heure de la Lune Black Sahara

A new take on Hermès’ stellar dual moon phase complication, Black Sahara is one of three limited edition, meteorite-backed versions of the piece, with a stark, shadowy dial. The two static moons are as ever eclipsed by the time and date dials, showing both hemispheres at once; the northern hemisphere however has a slight difference: look close and you’ll see a winged Pegasus, courtesy of “dreamer-designer” Dimitri Rybaltchenko.

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FRONT — facetime

NO.

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FA C E T I M E The watch collections of the rich and famous revealed

Given that he’s largely to thank for grime making it mainstream, you can bet that Stormzy’s been enjoying his success with more than a wardrobe stuffed with designer tracksuits. Not that there’s anything against endless monochrome get-ups, especially if you’ve had a hand in designing them yourself, but nothing beats the props that come with a good watch – and Stormzy has almost as many fine timepieces as he has gongs.

Rather than the general iced-out bling that most rappers revert to – diamond-encrusted Royal Oaks, over-compensating Hublots or anything from Jacob & Co – it looks like he’s been taking a few collecting tips from mate Ed Sheeran.

In Wiley Flow, Ft. good ol’ Ed, he waxes lyrical about his Rolexes, calling out the cool green Hulk Submariner and the famous Pepsi Cola version of the GMT Master II, the most in-demand pair this side of a Daytona. They’re classics, and he hasn’t even blacked them out or otherwise ruined the classic colourways. For once.

He does have a Daytona too of course – what selfrespecting rapper doesn’t? – and one of the blingier Rolex-made ones at that with a rainbow-set bezel.

It’s definitely a contrast to his usual all-black look.

On the (slightly) more reserved end of the spectrum are Stormzy’s prized Patek Philippes: a gold and stainless steel Nautilus and the 5168G-001, a whitegold Aquanaut with a blue dial. It looks like waiting lists aren’t a thing in Stormzy’s world.

The final piece of note – that we’ve noticed so far, at any rate – is the piece that brings Stormzy back in line with plenty of other rappers, his Richard Mille RM11-02.

Still, by Richard Mille standards it’s a classic; if the grime superstar has a list of classic designs to tick off, he was going to get there eventually.

In short, if you want a watch collection to aspire to, check out Stormzy’s. A couple more albums and he’ll have every horological icon going and the tracks to go with them.

Stormzy The rapper

A Patek Philippe Aquanaut and rainbow-set Rolex are among the grime artist’s pieces

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FRONT — ask the oracle

THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained

[Buying a Watch Online]

If you can’t go to the watches, let the watches come to you…

Your watch collection is getting lonely. Now that we’re no longer leaving the house bar to exercise (where no fine watch has any business joining you), your pieces are feeling neglected, sat there in the next room all alone. They deserve a present; a new family member would suit nicely.

The problem is, now that watches are deemed ‘nonessential’, where can you find the perfect accompaniment to your would-be growing collection?

The answer’s obvious: online. I don’t mean the usual grey market dodgy dealers that pop up all too often in your social ads.

No, now that lockdown has shut real-world spaces up tighter than an Oyster case even the big players of the horological world are getting in on the online action.

Plenty of brands sell directly through their sites, something Jaeger-LeCoultre has been doing for longer than most. The same goes for most mainstream brands to be honest and every small, accessible independent you can name (many of which are in our Microbrand guide, incidentally). You might want to double-check wait times. If pieces are coming over from Switzerland then you might have an issue with quarantines.

If possible, shop through a local retailer that actually has the piece in stock that you want. Call or email to check. Nothing’s worse than getting an email stating that your shiny new timepiece will be with you in six months.

Going through retailers in fact is better than it’s ever been. The big news since the crisis began though was that Patek Philippe has begun selling online through authorized dealers – Watches of Switzerland and the like. That’s a big deal for the famously protective Patek, but means that you can add one to your collection with a click of the mouse. Or close enough at any rate.

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Outside of your Watches of Switzerland, Goldsmiths, whatever name you prefer (it’s all much of a muchness to me) there are still a few interesting places to look for new watches. For classicists, MR PORTER (mrporter. com) has a selection from the likes of IWC, JLC, Cartier et al – pretty much what the guys buying shoes and suits on the site would wear.

Then there’s Farfetch (farfetch.com), whose selection of brands ranges from Urwerk to Ulysse Nardin, March LA.B to MAD Paris, covering a plethora of off-kilter brands you’re unlikely to find anywhere else. Then there’s Hodinkee, The Rake and Revolution, whose digital shops showcase a few unique designs from key watchmakers. They’re limited stock and the Hodinkee models at least are collector’s pieces from the get-go, but some are quite particular.

Above all though, avoid any sites offering new watches for discounts. They may be tempting; they may even be legit, but don’t expect much customer service, particularly right now. Worse yet, if it turns out to be a grey-market watch (unused stock, sold off cheaply), don’t expect any help from the watchmaker itself; most are trying to crack down on the re-selling of new pieces. You’ve been warned.

That’s about it for new watches, but as the preowned market continues to grow like a balloon not soon about to burst, there are other places to look. For Rolex, Bob’s Watches (bobswatches.com) is a fantastic digital shop, even if the rarer pieces aren’t likely to be there. It’s the ideal place to get your first Rolex for a great price.

For the next step up, take a look at Bulang & Sons (bulangandsons.com), which has an impressive array of the most iconic vintage watches around; think Daytonas, Speedmasters and Nautiluses (Nautili?). This is where to look for the core focal point of your collection.

Closer to home though I’d recommend A Collected Man (acollectedman.com). A host of Patek Philippes and A. Lange & Sohnes, older Roger Dubuis and Urwerks and even the occasional superstar like a George Daniels, it’s all backed by in-depth articles on and interviews from the world of haute horology. This is one for the serious, serious collectors amongst you.

Finally, there are the marketplaces like Chrono Expert and Watch Finder. They’re great at what they do – offering pre-owned watches for decent prices – but they’re a bit unpredictable in what they’re offering at any one time and, given that for most (Watch Finder aside) the watches come direct from sellers, I’d prefer something a tad more reliable in these trying times.

And there you have it. Whether you want a shiny new Urwerk or an incredibly rare grail piece, there are plenty of places to keep your eye on. Just because you’ve grown stagnant doesn’t mean your treasured watch collection should.

To whet your appetite, here are a few pieces available to buy online. Go now if you want to nab them. Now!

FRONT — ask the oracle

[RESSENCE TYPE 1S , £14,250]

For me, one of the coolest contemporary pieces ever built, Ressence’ signature crownless winding system and tone-on-tone regulator dial make for a uniquely stylised timepiece. Early models like this 2014 piece are guarded jealously, making this one a find. It’s not cheap but it’s one of those pieces that, if want it, you’ll stump up serious money for. acollectedman.com

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FRONT — ask the oracle

It’s a great starting piece to build a serious collection around – and they’re only getting rarer

[OMEGA SPEEDMASTER ‘PRE-MOON’, €6,800]

The Speedmaster was a superlative watch before Buzz Aldrin ever wore it outside the home atmosphere; case in point, the Speedmaster ‘PreMoon’, the version that predates the model’s later Apollo fame. One of the most accessible horological icons, it’s a great starting piece to build a serious collection around – and they’re only getting rarer. bulangandsons.com

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[MAD PARIS ROLEX DAYTONA EMERALD, £58,000]

If you saw Drake’s recent emerald Nautilus but wished it was a Rolex, look no further. MAD Paris’ gem-encrusted, blacked-out take on the iconic Daytona is guaranteed to get heads turning. Just don’t expect to find it anywhere else; any MAD Paris designs you see on Farfetch are exclusive to the site, and you can be sure they’re making a killing from this one alone. farfetch.com

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© Photography: Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent

FRONT — grand seiko

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FRONT — grand seiko

WORDS:

SAM KESSLER

WHAT GOES AROUND, COMES AROUND AS GRAND SEIKO HITS A MILESTONE ANNIVERSARY, THE JAPANESE WATCHMAKER TAKES A NOSTALGIC LOOK BACK AT THE MODEL THAT MADE IT

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FRONT — grand seiko

If we’re being pessimistic, most of what was shiny and new has been replaced, forgotten or made irrelevant. Except, of course, for Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko, founded in 1960, has long been a favourite of watch collectors

A lot happened in 1960. Sir Francis Chichester sailed across the Atlantic solo in 40 days; Psycho made Alfred Hitchcock a household name and JFK won the election for President of the USA. In the watch world though, a quieter yet no less important thing happened: Grand Seiko.

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Founded as a kind of concept workshop for Seiko, which was already dominating the Japanese horological scene, Grand Seiko was created with the express purpose of building the perfect watch. So aiming nice and low there. That didn’t stop it from ploughing ahead though and with that mandate came the first watch to be crowned with its now-iconic lion, the reference 3180.

The 3180, also known as the ‘Diashock’, was designer Taro Tanaka’s first attempt to pin down his idea of the ‘ideal’ watch and laid some of the foundations of what Grand Seiko would become; the 44GS some seven years later engraved them in stone, but it all began with that calibre 3180.

Flash-forward 60 years on and a lot’s changed. Even a slow cruise liner takes under ten days crossing the pond; Hitchcock’s relegated to the DVD shelves of hipsters and film students (I know, I know, Vertigo is still a classic) and JFK… well, we all know what happened there. In fact, if we’re being pessimistic – which it’s hard not to be these days – most of what was shiny and new has been replaced, forgotten or made irrelevant. Except, of course, for Grand Seiko.

In fact, Grand Seiko is stronger than ever, not just surviving the quartz crisis of the 70s (instigated might I point out by its older brother), but thriving throughout it. Today they’re a collectors’ darling, despite only leaving home shores back in 2010. Indeed, while it feels like Grand Seiko has been part of the watchmaking landscape forever, the past decade alone has seen a fair few changes.

Just last year, Grand Seiko began creating some seriously impressive sports watches, taking a few design cues from Seiko proper but utilising all the extraordinary finishing, craftsmanship and haute horological habits of its own Shizukuishi workshops.

FRONT — grand seiko

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FRONT — grand seiko

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FRONT — grand seiko

The brand celebrated the 20th anniversary of its seminal hybridised Spring Drive movement too, with a series of cutting-edge limited editions and ever more advanced mechanics behind them, illustrating just how far Grand Seiko has come over the decades.

This, however, is a far bigger anniversary than that.

For Swiss brands, 60 is a bit of an arbitrary number, as relevant as any other ending in 0. Or 5, for that matter. In Japanese culture though, 60 years marks an entire cycle of the traditional Zodiac calendar, arriving right back at the beginning. What better way to commemorate 60 years of Grand Seiko then, than to come full circle back to the original, timeless formula of the Ref. 3180?

That formula involves prominent, old-school lugs, a slim bezel and rounded case facets, highlighted by the brand’s signature Zaratsu polishing. The new watches also retain the double hour markers and sharply faceted hands that still run through the Grand Seiko collection as a whole. They even retain the “Diashock 24 Jewels” wording of the 1960s original.

In fact, while all the proportions have been almost imperceptibly tweaked, there are only really two obvious aesthetic differences. The first is the sizing, which has grown from a vintage 35mm to a more wearably modern 38mm. The second difference is in the colours.

Two of the models are as classically elegant as these things get. The SBGW257 uses platinum with a matched white gold dial and, more in line with the first “Diashock”, the SBGW258 opts for yellow gold with a Champagne dial. Both offer a sophisticated toneon-tone look, nothing exactly ground-breaking but lovely nonetheless. The last member of the trio though, the SBGW259, has a twist.

What looks like stainless steel is actually “Brilliant Hard Titanium” which, in the grand tradition of Seiko naming, is exactly as it sounds: a bright, polished and hard-wearing titanium alloy. It shows off the Zaratsu polishing far better than the often dull grey of the lightweight metal usually allows. Paired with a midnight-blue dial, it’s a striking new take on the established design.

Harking back to before movements like the Hi-Beat and Spring Drive became central to Grand Seiko, the movement in all three re-creations is the 9S64 calibre, a thin, manual-wind number with a 72-hour power reserve. It’s a lot more advanced than movements from the 60s, with an incredible accuracy rating, +5 to –3 seconds per day.

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In Japanese culture, 60 years marks an entire cycle of the Zodiac calendar. What better way to commemorate 60 years of Grand Seiko than to come full circle?

This isn’t the first time Grand Seiko has mined the “Diashock” for inspiration; back in 2017, it released a trio of limited edition pieces based on the original 1960 model. The important distinction here is that these are not limited; this re-created trio is now part of the core Grand Seiko range, meaning even the less obsessive collectors might be able to get one on their wrists.

Most importantly, 60 years on, by the end of the next Zodiac cycle, you can be damn sure these three watches will be just as timeless as they are now. grand-seiko.com

FRONT — microbrands

ULTIMATE

THE

MICROBRAND GUIDE

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

BEFORE WE GET INTO THE GUIDE PROPER, it’s worth defining what a microbrand actually is. After all, it’s a term we hear plenty of times without any real explanation, the assumption being that it does that itself. But in the watch world that’s never really the case. So what is a microbrand?

Well, it needs to be small, obviously. We’re not talking hundreds of thousands of watches a year here, we’re talking low thousands, hundreds in some cases, built in small batches. That level of production’s no bad thing of course; it allows the designers behind the brand to be agile, to develop new concepts on the fly and to streamline and enhance their flagship pieces according to collector feedback.

Then there’s the accessibility angle. In general, microbrands offer accessible, value-for-money propositions. Even those of a higher bracket, straying into same territory as big, marquee brands, offer impressive bang for your buck for the same features. It’s how microbrands stand out; when you don’t have a name to fall back on, you need to let your specs sheet speak for itself.

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In fact, don’t be surprised if you see a watch or two on this list that seems too good for the price tag attached. You’d be surprised what you can offer without spending millions on global campaigns with Hollywood ambassadors.

Finally, the element that disqualified a fair few brands that would otherwise be front and centre: age. Microbrands as a movement is a new phenomenon, brought on by the singularity of Kickstarter, crowd-funding and social media.

The combination has allowed anyone with the right passion to create their own watch brand, to showcase what they think the ideal timepiece should look like – and find plenty of other would-be collectors that think the same.

It’s why this is an incredibly exciting time for watch lovers but, in the same breath, is a little overwhelming. You can have too much of a good thing.

There are new microbrands every month (though that’s probably slowed a little right now) with ever more impressive specs and idiosyncratic designs across every type of watch you care to name.

So without further ado, we present the Oracle time Microbrand Guide 2020.

FRONT — microbrands

AEVIG HULDRA

The late sixties and early seventies were the heyday of diving timepieces and Aevig’s Huldra recaptures those glory years perfectly. Unashamedly retro with its lozenge-shaped case, notched bezel and fantastic range of vintage-inspired colours, it’s one of the closest things you can get to a true sixties classic without raiding your local vintage store. It’s available with or without date in five dial variations, comes equipped with a Miyota 9015 automatic movement and boasts 200m water resistance, making it more than just good-looking.

Euro 650, aevig.com

DIVIN G You don’t need to risk diving into the blackest depths of the abyssal ocean to wear a diving watch, but at least with these you know you could.

If you wanted to

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FRONT — microbrands

IANOS AVYSSOS

Plenty of watches take inspiration from horological heritage, but Greek brand Ianos has them all beat – chronologically at least. The Avyssos diving watch is based on the Antikythera Mechanism, an ancient Greek astronomical timekeeper, the shape of which can be seen in the unique second counter at 6 o’clock on the Avyssos. The shape is taken from the stones used by Greek sponge freedivers and the specs match up nicely: the 44mm steel watch has 300m water resistance, plenty of lume around the sandwich dial and is powered by the ever-reliable Sellita SW216-1 manual-wind movement.

Finally, a diving watch that doesn’t blend in with the rest!

CHF 1,250, ianoswatches.com

WILLIAM WOOD VALIANT

As a brand, William Wood is inspired by the unsung heroes of the fire department, and the Valiant is its latest homage to the emergency service. It’s an influence that can be seen most clearly on the straps made from upcycled fire hose, but also in the finer details: the fire-engine cheques of the inner bezel, the fire bell chime of a second hand and the markings of rank that indicate 12 o’clock. Of the five pieces in the collection, our pick is the black dial, red bezel and, as you get to choose between Japanese or Swiss, the classic ETA 2824 automatic movement.

From £499, williamwoodwatches.com

William Wood is inspired by the unsung heroes of the fire department, and the Valiant is its latest homage to the emergency service

SECOND HOUR

Plenty of watches on this list got their first funding from Kickstarter, but none as quickly as Australian watch brand Second Hour and its Gin Clear Diver, which took 33 minutes to hit its target. It only took 24 hours to hit its stretch goals too.

It’s clear as gin why, too: a solid, professional level diver with a number of cool, colourful dials and a price tag that seems almost impossible, especially while using ceramic, enamel and other high-grade watchmaking materials. Just to put some icing on this already delicious horological cake, it comes complete with a handsome leather travel case, too. $570, secondhour.com.au

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FRONT — microbrands

BALTIC AQUASCAPHE BLUE GILT

The first tool watch from Baltic doesn’t disappoint, either on the practical side or on looks, but if the Aquascaphe is missing something it’s bronze. It 39mm case has hints of the iconic divers of the 60s, but the lovely blue dial deserves something to play off.

Now, it has it. The new Aquascaphe Bronze has all the Pacific-crossing credentials of the original model, just dressed in a gorgeous new case, one that will patina with age in contrast to the midnight blue. Like anything painfully fashionable, bronze watches tend to come with a price tag to match; not this time.

Euro 625, baltic-watches.com

SCURFA BELL DIVER 1

This is the quintessential ‘designed by divers, for divers’ watch.

Scurfa founder Paul Scurfield is himself a saturation diver and designed the original Diver One to suit a life at depth. The latest model, the Bell Diver 1, takes that further with a Miyota 9015 automatic movement and all the trappings of a professional underwater instrument, right down to 500m. It’s also equipped with a helium escape valve which, for once, makes sense given Scurfield’s own background. Complete with a blacked-out PVD case and plenty of lume, this is a true diver for a great price. £364,scurfawatches.com

FEYNMAN COVE

This might not look like a diver at first glance but trust us, it checks off all the right boxes. It has 200m of water resistance, can survive more than a few submarine knocks and has a rotating inner bezel. It just so happens that the compressor-style watch’s dial is like nothing else out there, not only for the off-centre small seconds and sumptuous colours, but for the fact that it comes alive in low light. Every dive watch uses lume; Feynman makes art with it, creating a stunning wave pattern in the innermost dial that can only be seen with the light out.

SGD 1,088, feynman.watch

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FRONT FRONT —— microbrands

MAGRETTE MOANA PACIFIC WATERMAN GMT

Bronze case? Check. Pepsi Cola rotating bezel? Check.

Serious diving credentials? Check again. Magrette’s latest addition to the Waterman collection has every cool, zeitgeisty element going and we love it. Powered by an ETA Caliber 2893-2 automatic GMT movement and protected down to 500m, this isn’t just one of the most handsome divers in its price range, it’s one of the highest-spec too. With the bronze left to patina, this could well become your favourite daily diver, whether you’re in the water or out. magrette.com

EMG NEMO DIVER

It might have a name in common with everyone’s favourite clown fish but the Nemo is no joke. The first diver from enthusiast-focused watch brand EMG is a collaborative project with watch specialist Eddy Tse’s HKED watches and the result is a cool, vintage-style diver in an expansive range of colours.

Equipped with a Miyota 90S5 movement, a 200m water resistance and a ‘beads of rice’ bracelet, it’s a great 60s homage. The caseback is finished with the giant squid that the non-fish Nemo had to contend with, a challenge his namesake watch seems up to. $450, emgwatches.com

The caseback is finished with the giant squid that Captain Nemo had to contend with, a challenge his namesake watch seems up to ALSTA NAUTOSCAPHE SUPERAUTOMATIC

Plenty of watches gain their cult followings from the big screen, but few suited the character quite so well as Alsta on the wrist of Richard Dreyfuss in Jaws.

For the Nautoscaphe Automatic, Alsta has gone back to that original 1975 design with a lozenge case and retro bezel, imitating the vintage piece but with modern watchmaking mechanics behind it. The result is a limited edition of 1,975 pieces that any cinephile would fight a giant shark to own. And anyone looking for a well-built, wonderfully charming throwback diver, for that matter. £795, alstawatch.com

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FRONT — microbrands

FARR + SWIT SEAPLANE AUTOMATIC MIDNIGHT LANDING

It might house a Swiss movement (namely a Sellita SW-200), but this blacked out version of Farr + Swit’s flagship Seaplane is entirely assembled in the USA, making it a rarity in and of itself. If you prefer substance over provenance though, this diving watch for pilots also offers a huge amount for the money. A chunky, 42mm piece of stainless steel and sapphire crystal, its under-the-radar style is alleviated by flashes of bright blue for a brilliant, contemporary air-to-ocean piece with the specs sheet to survive a crash landing in style. $649 farrandswit.com

Its tapering case is reminiscent of the South African protea flower, while the indexes use shapes found in Zulu beadwork DRAKEN TUGELA SUPER BLUE

The bright blue of this limited edition take on Draken’s Tugela dive watch isn’t the only thing to help it stand out from the tide. Its tapering case is reminiscent of the South African protea flower, while the indexes use shapes found in Zulu beadwork.

It makes for a unique-looking timepiece with all the practical functionality of a serious diver. That includes a 120-click unidirectional bezel, ten layers of high-end lume and 300m water resistance. It comes with a cool Zulu nylon strap, though actual divers will want the bracelet version. Either way, this is a diver that’ll get noticed – and appreciated – from a mile off. $349, drakenwatches.com

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FRONT — microbrands

UNIMATIC X MASSENA LAB MODELLO UNO REF. U1-ML6

A triple threat of painfully cool Italian watch brand, industry icon William Massena and retro diving watch, this is contemporary Italian flair backdated to the 50s. The basic silhouette is pure UNIMATIC, but complemented by a brown tropical dial and a 15-minute diving bezel. It’s water resistant to 300m, but you can be damn sure most owners won’t be taking it under water.

Ever since this baby came out there’s been a waiting list and nobody would want to risk a future collector’s classic – which this most undoubtedly will be.

Definitely worth the wait. $850, unimaticwatches.com

AUDRIC SEABORNE 500M

Other than the occasional notable exception, diving watches tend to come in two colours: black or blue. Well, try telling that to Audric, whose SeaBorne has all the colours. We don’t just mean a wide selection of bright dial and bezel combos, but around the inner bezel as well, which uses the same colours as an oxygen gauge. It’s also more than just aesthetically striking; with 500m depth resistance and a case built to sink the Titanic, this is a serious deep-dweller brighter than any angler fish.

The price has yet to be announced, but Audric is promising great things on that front, too…

Price TBC, audricwatches.com

MARNAUT SEASCAPE

Adding to the international mix of microbrands is Croatian watch designer Marnaut and its twin-crowned, compressor-style Seascape. Yet that 200m water resistant case isn't the only thing that’s classic about the watch; rather than the usual numerals or indexes, the dial is defined by a series of lume-filled dots that clearly pick out the lines of the hour markers. It’s a novel display and one that makes sense in low light conditions where you need to be sure you’re not a minute or two out. Our favourite version? The Reverse, with a black dial and white inner bezel.

We want it. $449, marnaut.com

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FRONT — microbrands

ABOUT VINTAGE 1926 AT’SEA

Scandinavian chic meets nautical inspirations in this collaborative timepiece from About Vintage and Danish actor Jonathan Harboe. That means a 1920s-style diver – none of this retro 60s stuff – meaning an uncharacteristically svelte case, lovely fluted crown and the marine necessities of a unidirectional diving bezel and plenty of lume. If that weren’t enough of a reason to give the At’sea a go, a portion of the proceeds will go to The Ocean Cleanup, an organization that does exactly what it says in the name. A good cause and a classic diver for a great price.

Euro 599, aboutvintage.com

That means a 1920s-style diver – an uncharacteristically svelte case, lovely fluted crown and marine necessities

ANDERSMANN BRONZE 1,000M

The three words that define Hong Kong based micro Andersmann are Quality, Classic and Minimalism, three tenets it holds to dearly, especially in its latest bronze-clad release. A 44mm weight of metal, the asymmetrical tool watch is as serious as divers come, water resistant to 1,000m.

The off-centre crown and unidirectional rotating bezel are knurled to ensure easy grip and the whole thing is powered by the ever-reliable ETA2892-A2, with a power reserve of 42 hours. If you’re a fan of bronze but find the mainstream offerings lacking, Andersmann has you covered. $1,888, andersmann.com

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FRONT — microbrands

REVERIE ATLANTIS

Ornate guilloche isn’t really what you expect to find on a tool watch, yet it’s what defines Reverie’s upcoming Atlantis diver. At the centre of each svelte 40mm case is a beautiful dial in grey, olive or navy blue, using a double layer construction to play with light across the different finishes. The result is a more sophisticated diver than most, but one that can stand up to the rigours of underwater exploration, with 200m water resistance, a unidirectional bezel and plenty of lume, all powered by a Miyota 9039 with a beautifully engraved rotor. Tool watch specs; dress watch finishing. $500 (US$325 for backers) reveriewatches.com

At the centre of each svelte 40mm case is a beautiful dial in grey, olive or navy blue, using a double layer construction to play with the light

OCEANEVA GMT DEEP MARINE EXPLORER 1250M

Any decent diver has respectable depth resistance; Oceaneva’s GMT Deep Marine Explorer blows them out of the water. The handsome, quartz-equipped number can survive in the dark abyss of 1,250m down, up there with some of the deepestdiving watches in the world. The rugged case, helium escape valve and rotating bezel all hammer home its tool nature, though that latter’s also the Deep Marine’s stylistic flair. Sure, you could opt for the classic Pepsi Cola blue and red or the high-contrast yellow and black, but we’d take a bit of both and opt for the cool black and red edition. $890, oceaneva.com

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FRONT — microbrands

GORILLA TRUFFLEHUNTER

So this is a thing. If Sevenfriday just isn’t odd enough for you, there’s always Gorilla, the automatic-inspired maniacs behind this pink-liveried beast. That livery is actually the same that covered the 917/20, a one-off prototype test car for Le Mans, back in 1971. It was wide, stout and covered in butcher’s cuts – hence the name the ‘Trufflehunter.’ It did not finish. Either way, it makes for an interesting story and an insane watch, a 500-piece limited edition backed by a Miyota 90S5 automatic movement. Whether you love it or hate it, you won’t soon forget it. $1,350, gorillawatches.ch

DRIVING Whether you prefer romantic drives along the coast or the adrenaline of racing a cutting-edge hypercar, these watches borrow from both ends of the automotive spectrum

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FRONT — microbrands

STRATON WATCH CO. CURVE CHRONO

DE RIJKE & CO AMALFI 1S

AUTODROMO GROUP B SERIES 2 SAFARI

CARZO & LEIUTIER SAINT LUXEUIL BLUE VELVET

The ultimate racing throwback, this beautifully curved tachymeter-equipped chronograph is pure 60s nostalgia – pretty much the opposite of the advanced Seiko mecha-quartz movement powering it, a fusion of battery-powered accuracy and a mechanical chronograph. Dressed in livery fit for a vintage racer – we particularly love the green – the brightly coloured tachymeter makes for a serious dashboard companion. If that weren’t enough, the rotating inner bezel makes this a subtle GMT, settable via the 10 o’clock crown. A rally-ready take on retro. $499, stratonwc.com

Forget all the carbon fibre and testosterone that normally comes with driving or automotive watches; if they are Formula 1 this is the equivalent of a romantic getaway along the Riviera.

And yet this Dutch timepiece is more innovative than most of those performance-oriented monsters. The case can be rotated 90 degrees, which means that, when worn under the wrist, it can be easily read with both hands on the wheel. The fuss-free design of the dial and thin, 38mm add to the relaxed, assured feel – the perfect co-pilot for a real Grand Tour.

Euro 2,785, derijkeandco.com

The Safari takes its name from more than its jungle-green colouring; like all Autodromo timepieces, its red thread begins in the racing world, specifically here the East Africa Safari rallies of the 1980s. The finish of the 39mm titanium case is almost iridescent, playing with the light in the opposite way as the straight matte dial with its speedometer inflexions and the only hints of another colour – yellow – across the whole watch. It’s a rugged watch with an integrated bracelet and powered by a Miyota 9015. It would have looked super high-tech in the 80s – which is, of course, the point. $975, autodromo.com

Cars aren’t the only motors worth turning into a watch and for Carzo & Lieutier, two wheels is better than four. Here that means a knurled bezel stripped right off the gas handle of a motorbike and a case in the same shape as a circlip – a circular piece of spring steel used to keep bikes together. It makes for an oddly faceted, industrial-looking case, the opposite of the silky deep purple dial. Powered by the Miyota 9015 automatic movement and assembled in Nice, it’s a watch by motorcyclists, for motorcyclists, and it’s about damn time.

Euro 680, carzoleiutier.com

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FRONT — microbrands

ADVENTURING Whether it’s a military-inspired tool watch or one suffused with the ineffable spirit of adventure, these watches will hold you in good stead wherever life takes you

MITCH MASON CHRONICLE

The field watch has seen many iterations over the years and it’s not often we see a genuinely new interpretation. This is one such time.

Mitch Mason’s Chronicle is among the nicest-looking daily beaters we’ve come across, combining 40s vintage styling with modern watchmaking and the kind of versatility that means it’ll be hard to take off. Available in black, blue, grey and cream, its powered by a Miyota 9039 movement and water resistant to 200m. This isn’t your granddad’s service watch, but he’d definitely be more than happy to wear it. Keep your eyes on Kickstarter for this one. $499 ($379 for backers), mitchmason.com

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FRONT — microbrands

E.C. ANDERSSON GÖTA-LEJON KONTRA GAUSS GMT

Magnetism is the hidden enemy of movements everywhere, the silent killer of hairsprings across the world. With the latest high-tech timepiece from EC Andersson you don’t need to worry. The Göta-Lejon GMT is equipped with the brand’s Kontra Gauss shield which battles magnetism. It also happens to look great, the sunray blue version specifically. Throw in a GMT and 100m water resistance and you have a watch that’ll tell you two time zones, no matter where you take it. £2,100, ecandersson.com

VON DOREN URAED

In 1904 Norwegian sailor Ole Brude crossed from the port of Alesund to the USA in his self-designed lifeboat. Von Doren’s Uraed is inspired by that epic journey. The 40mm rounded case takes its design cues from the classic pieces of the 1900s and is available in a trio of seafaring colours: Lava (black), Atlantic Blue and the lovely Green Sea. If you happen to speak the language (or just want a nice point of difference) you can also get the days written in Norwegian. Either way it’s a striking nautical timepiece, incredibly well-made and finished on the reverse with an engraving of the vessel that inspired it.

Euro 1,379, vondoren.com

If you happen to speak the language (or just want a nice point of difference) you can also get the days written in Norwegian WINFIELD

If there’s one thing you want from a tool watch, it’s survivability. There’s no point having one if it can’t survive a few knocks on a cliffside. Winfield’s MT1 is built to last, probably a damn sight longer than you are, with a solid 316L stainless steel case, plenty of lume and 200m water resistance.

It’s even equipped with a Ronda 715Li quartz movement to ensure it can keep going through any conditions, at any time, and you don’t need to stop to wind it. If you’re after a watch as ready for a challenge as you are, look no further. $399, winfieldwatch.com

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FRONT — microbrands

BOLDR SUPPLY VENTURE FIELD MEDIC

Now more than ever, healthcare professionals need to be in the field, assessing the damage Covid 19 is doing. Boldr’s latest piece is designed for them. A timepiece for medics, the Venture Field Medic is a collaboration between the Singaporean watch brand, Portuguese designer Danny Luís and Indian-based physician Dr. Karan Madan. The result is tough, light, 38mm titanium timepiece that can survive anything. It’s also incredibly cool, particularly in the panda-dialled Medic II. Better yet, it’s a great price, a tenth of which will go directly to Doctors Without Borders, Red Cross Singapore, and several other COVID-19 relief funds. $300, boldrsupply.com

BÓLIDO HALO

BÓLIDO’s signature sloped cases are as unique in their construction as their looks. Each is milled top-down from a solid block of metal, meaning that the case is of one piece. This in turn means extra water resistance and an incredibly solid feel. With a huge crown at 12 o’clock, BÓLIDO watches are cool, industrial and surprisingly affordable.

This Savannah yellow version for example, complete with an STP 1-11 automatic movement, comes to just under Euro 700. Finished with a black PVD coating (because contrast is king), it’s as sporty-looking as it is rugged.

Euro 698, bolido.rocks

OAK & OSCAR HUMBOLDT

Named after 18th-century explorer Alexander von Humbolt, Oak & Oscar’s take on a classic field watch pretends to that same sense of boundary-pushing wanderlust but without the pretence that comes with having ‘von’ in your name. Instead, they’ve built a rugged, compass-round 40mm case with a rotating 12-hour bezel (the simplest way to do two time zones) and 200m water resistance. Like many on this list it’s powered by the ETA 2892 calibre automatic movement and, on the bracelet particularly, is a seriously good-looking piece of watch. $1,750, oakandoscar.com

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MEIA LUA INCEPTION BOREAL MOONRISE

Never before has a name matched a dial colour so well. Inception is the first pilot's watch from Lisbon-based Meia Lua, and while all three are inspired by moonlight in various ways, it’s the shimmering green blue of the aurora, of the Boreal Moonrise, that stands out the most. Combined with the cockpit layout, lume for night flights and oversized crown for use with flying gloves that make this one of the more unique aviation timepieces out there. It almost feels greedy to ask for more colours in the future, but if they’re anything as lovely as this, we’re OK with that. £369, meialuawatches.com

F LY I N G

GAVOX AURORA

It’s easy to sniff at quartz watches, but when you’re a professional pilot relying on your instruments, that’s something you can’t afford to do. And besides, the Gavox Aurora is not your standard batterypowered timepiece; it’s the first multi-function quartz watch that handles all geographical and political time zones – that includes all the non-standard ones people forget. It’s wrapped up in a blackedout design ripped straight out of a modern aircraft and might well make you wonder why exactly you love mechanical so much. For a second, at least.

Euro 1,500, gavox.com

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Whether you’re in the air for work, for fun or just to get from A to B, there’s no denying the timeless appeal of the classic aviator’s timepiece. Who doesn’t want to look like a pilot?

FRONT — microbrands

O&W P-104 S

Designed for professional military and commercial pilots – the serious aviators – this blacked-out beauty comes equipped with a slide rule similar to that which made the Navitimer famous and a layout based on an instrument panel. That means intense contrast with white and orange indicators and a clear, legible layout. Powered by an ETA 2824-2 movement, adjusted in-house, and finished with a 1960s-style bracelet, this is a new take on the golden era of international aviation, with a stealthy military twist. $991.76, ow-watch.ch

CHOTOVELLI & FIGLI NAVIGATOR

The latest generation behind Chotovelli & Figli has done more than revive a nearly century-old name; they’ve been harking back to the golden age of pilots' watches and their military roots. Case in point, the upcoming Navigator 1949, sequel to Chotovelli’s Flieger 1919. The vintagestyle round case and high-contrast, clearly legible dial makes for an intensely practical timepiece, particularly in the Dial A, white on black version. It’s about as old-school aviation as a shearling-lined leather jacket. Like the Flieger 1919, the Navigator will be heading to Kickstarter, so get in there early. $180, chotovelli.com

MK II HAWKINGE AGL

As all the archival revivals suggest, homage has a special place in watchmaking, though it takes a careful step to ensure it doesn’t stray into straight-up copying. US-based Mk II manages perfectly, especially in the Hawkinge AGL, its own take on the classic Mk XI design of IWC fame.

It has the same militaristic feel, the same dial layout and blacked-out sword-shape, all designed for quick minute and second readouts. If you don’t want to risk your (now incredibly valuable) vintage Mk XI, this makes for a fine substitute indeed. $595.00, mkiiwatches.com

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ELEGANCE Classical over retro, timeless over contemporary, these pieces might be modern in manufacture (mostly) but they’re a swansong to a bygone era of elegant, ideal-for-dress watches

VALIMOR VALKNUT

If middle-age knights wore watches, they would have looked something like the Valknut. Valimor’s emphasis on archaic designs and motifs translates perfectly into this gloriously gothic timepiece.

Rich and layered, everything from the scaled bezel to the Roman numerals ripped from a 16th-century clocktower is an ode to ancient architecture.

This finishing is in contrast to the open heart of the watch that gives a glimpse of the Japanese Miyota 82S0 automatic movement inside and the copious lume across the dial, which transforms the Valknut into something intensely modern in low light.

From $479, valimor.com

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FRONT — microbrands

CIRCULA HERITAGE AUTOMATIC

Pleasant as the sophisticated, minimal dial and 41mm case of Circula’s timepiece are, what sets Circula’s Heritage Automatic apart from the rest is more than skin-deep. That’s because it contains a historical new/old stock movement – meaning never before used vintage.

The overall design of the watch may imitate Circula’s 1950s designs, but the movements are actually from the 70s, making this a dual-era ode to the German watchmaking traditions of Pforzheim and strictly limited besides. Go for the Redgold version with its white dial to really hammer home its classical source.

Euro 950, circulawatches.com

ATELIER WEN PORCELAIN ODYSSEY HAO RED

Released to celebrate Chinese New Year, this 1940sstyled beauty combines lucky red with pure, bright white – the English translation of Hao. The delicate layout and Chinese are stunning and it’s hard not to find Atelier Wen’s beautiful simplicity appealing. It’s the same inside, too, with a custom-made SL-3006 automatic movement keeping it ticking. The finishing touch is a deep caseback engraving of a Kunpeng, a mythical animal that doubles as an allegory for the concept of yin and yang. This may be a firmly Chinese watch, but it more than holds a candle to the Swiss way of doing things. $790, atelierwen.com

MAKINA URIEL I

From its unusual cushion case shape with circular bezel to the cream dial with fan-like guilloche dead centre, the Makina Uriel I is equal parts quirky and elegant. The Filipino brand seems able to tread Art Deco territory without straying into cliché or ripping off more famous designs, a manoeuvre many a watch brand would kill to be able to make.

Every part of the Uriel I is custom made in either Hong Kong or Manila – except of course for the Miyota 821A movement inside – and it shows. Even the custom rotor is a thing of beauty. $599, makinawatches.com

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MONTAGE PRESTIGE AUTUMN RED AUTOMATIC

A few years ago it was all about blue; now it’s green. In the future? It has to be red. Get ahead of the curve then with the Montage Prestige in Autumn red. The Fume dial ranges from pink in the centre to nearly black on the outer edge, running through fall colours in a restrained, wonderfully simple 40mm case. It would be a lovely piece at any price, but at under £200 for an automatic movement (a Miyota 9015) this is a watch well worth taking a punt on. It’s also available in green, blue and silver, but trust us, next year will be all about red. £185.99, montagewatches.com

A 43.5mm black PVD case paired with an equally dark enamel dial and white Roman numerals, it looks like it should cost five times what it does OLIVIER JONQUET BLACK CAPITANE MARINE 6

Like a negative of an old marine chronometer, this exceptional cushion-cased masterpiece from independent French watchmaker Olivier Jonquet is something else. A 43.5mm black PVD case paired with an equally dark enamel dial and white Roman numerals, it looks like it should cost five times what it does. The manual wind movement comes courtesy of ETA and, to seal the deal, only 200 of this edition will be made. There are less contemporary editions from Olivier Jonquet, but this is the one.

Euro 2,090, montres-oj.fr

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VARIO EMPIRE HANDWOUND

More Empire State than Rule Britannia, Vario’s latest timepiece revels in its Art Deco influences, with a sleek, geometric dial paired with typography that looks like it’s taken straight off a vintage clock. The 38mm case is the perfect size for its style and matches the fluted crown nicely. Of the four variants available, the more striking is the White Tuxedo version, a highcontrast number perfect for the roaring 20s. If you want to hammer home those vintage roots, opt for the hand-wound edition equipped with a Miyota 6T33 movement; there aren’t nearly enough of those around. $368, vario.sg

You can get your Zodiac sign added to the watch, though we think it’s great as it is UNDONE URBAN 34 KILLY

Women’s watches are given short shrift, especially in the custom world. Not any more, thanks to the idiosyncratic masterminds at Undone and their first ladies’ piece, the Urban 34 Killy. Using the classic case shape and dial of the Urban, the Killy comes with a host of colourful standard and double tour straps to choose from with a quick-release system for fuss-free swapping (you also get an extra with each watch). As a new finishing touch, you can get your Zodiac sign added to the watch, though we think it’s great as it is. Either way, this isn’t your usual men’s watch resized; this is a custom women’s watch for an incredibly accessible price. £169, undone.com

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HAUTE HOROLOGY From accessible high complications to twists on the established practices of fine watchmaking, these are the microbrands that recontextualise what true haute horology actually is

AVENTI A-10

A tourbillon is expensive – at least, it always has been.

Aventi hopes to change all that. Its Indiegogo project is built like a supercar and more than looks the part, with the kind of aerodynamic angles Lamborghini would kill for.

More importantly for watch lovers, amongst the open bridge work they’ve set a tourbillon at 3 o’clock. The watch is available in the same kinds of colours as the aforementioned hypercars, but there’s one that’s worth noting in particular: a 100-per-cent sapphirecased special edition.

It is, without hyperbole, incredible – all the more so when you see the price.

Just… how? $4,999, aventiwatch.com

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OCHS & JUNIOR PERPETUAL CALENDAR

‘Accessible’ might be a stretch for a watch priced at CHF 21,200, but this is a perpetual calendar. You might not realise that at first, given that the display is entirely made from dots, but that’s the point. Ochs & Junior has stripped the ultimate calendar down to its bare essentials for a sleek, minimal take on something that’s all too often a mess. Once you know what each row of dots symbolises, it’s easier to read than you could ever expect. Powered by a Ulysse Nardin UN-118 movement, this is at the top end of watchmaking no matter how you look at it – not bad for a young, tiny, independent brand.

CHF 21,200, ochsundjunior.swiss

Part watch, part armoured spaceship, it’s one of the few horological designs that’s truly unique TROTHA THE TO-DO LIST

You don’t really need to know the day and date on a watch, so Swiss micro Trotha has decided to use the latter to highlight what you should actually be doing. From beers and burgers to sailing and a day at the beach, the ‘hedograph’ illustrates the good things in life via miniature drawings. There’s fondue too, of course; they are Swiss. The quirky complication is housed in a svelte 38mm stainless steel case with a cool knurled bezel and powered by Sellita 240-1 Elaboré modular movement. The only downside is that, right now, you probably can’t do most of what the To-Do List suggests. CHF 1,250, trotha.ch

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DWISS RW1

BUUR+ TUNGL

It might read like a typo of Swiss, but DWISS is a serious watchmaker. Just take a look at the RW1. Currently up for funding on Indiegogo, the RW1 is the independent Swiss brand's answer to the satellite indications of the likes of Urwerk, with wandering hours that also indicate the minutes across the top half of the dial. The only difference is this bad boy will set you back well under £1,000 – if you get in there early, anyway. The industrial look of the 45mm case (available in steel or black DLC) would be a defining feature on most watches; here it settles in nicely.

CHF 1,800 (CHF 899 for backers), dwiss.com

Meaning ‘moon’ in Icelandic, the Tungl is a full moon phase calendar watch for a fraction of the price you normally see them at. That’s because of the quartz movement of course, but aside from that the watch is a beauty, inspired by the moon phases developed by the likes of Omega and Zodiac and taking a few design cues from them, such as the oversized fluted crown and vintage 38mm size. The calendar itself is easy to read, an underrated commodity in the field and the midnight blue dial is perfect for a golden moon phase and hour markers. buurcph.com

PHANTOMS LAB SPEARIC LASER

GRUPPO GAMMA NEXUS

“When TIME is gone, it will be gone forever without a second chance.” That’s the message behind the borderline insanity that is Phantoms Lab’s coffin-shaped Laser series. Part watch, part armoured spaceship, it’s one of the few horological designs that’s truly unique. The multi-layered, incredibly technical dial displays the time in both 12 and 24-hour formats, minutes, seconds, date and a percentage power reserve at 12 o’clock. It’s a gloriously over-the-top, intensely sporty timepiece powered by a solid Japanese movement. Finished on an integrated rubber strap, there’s nothing else quite like it. $880, phantomslab.com

Sure, it’s based off a piece of diving equipment, but at a glance it’s obvious this is where Gruppo Gamma’s Nexus belongs. Modelled after 1940s depth gauges, the incredibly constructed sandwich dial is dominated by a wandering hours, which moves around the dial opposite the minute hand. It’s a rare complication and one that makes for an extraordinarily technical timepiece, complete with a top hat sapphire crystal and 6 o’clock crown.

This idiosyncratically complicated tool watch is available in steel, aged steel or the ever-impressive Damascus steel.

From £649.60, gruppogammawatches.com

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CERTINA DS PH200M 42.8mm stainless steel dial with 200m water resistance ETA Powermatic 80.611 calibre automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve CHF 880.00, certina.com

HOME FRONT Some watches demand to be taken out and shown off, but our shoot this month celebrates those fine horological pieces that feel right at home without leaving the house PHOTOGRAPHY: TOM PETTIT / FRASER VINCENT

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ZENITH A384 REVIVAL 37mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance El Primero 400 calibre automatic movement with 50hour power reserve £6,900, zenith-watches.com

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HAMILTON PSR 40.8mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance Digital quartz movement £675, hamiltonwatch.com

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MICHEL HERBELIN TROPHY 42mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance Sellita 11 ½ SW200-1 calibre automatic movement with 38hour power reserve £760, michel-herbelin.com

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MEISTERSINGER PERIGRAPH 43mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance Sellita SW 200-1 calibre automatic movement with 38hour power reserve £1,690, meistersinger.com

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DELMA OCEANMASTER ANTARCTICA 44mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance ETA 2824-2 calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve €1,390, delma.ch

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PORSCHE DESIGN 1919 CHRONOTIMER FLYBACK 42mm titanium case with 100m water resistance Porsche Design WERK 01.200 calibre automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve €5,950, porsche-design.com

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BALL ENGINEER HYDROCARBON ORIGINAL 40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance Ball RR1102-CLS calibre automatic movement with 38hour power reserve £2,580, ballwatch.com

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BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS AUTOMATIQUE TITANIUM 45mm titanium case with 300m water resistance 1315 calibre automatic movement with 120-hour power reserve £12,660, blancpain.com

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TAG HEUER AUTAVIA 42mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance Calibre 5 automatic movement with 38hour power reserve £2,595, tagheuer.com

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STYLE — opener

Style 86/ Rethinking your home wardrobe 93/ Our loungewear edit

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STYLE — organisation

YOU CAN’T CONTROL THE WORLD, BUT YOU CAN TAKE CONTROL OF YOUR WARDROBE Staying at home means that many of our previous wardrobe staples are irrelevant – and that we have an awful lot of time on our hands. It’s high time for a wardrobe clearout

© Christian Kimber

Words: NICK CARVELL

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STYLE — organisation

Craig Hoareau’s organisation company A Tidy Mind helps people to declutter their wardrobe and lifestyle

Learning a language, taking part in a gong bath, freshly baked sourdough loaves, working out in the park – a quick look at my Instagram feed and it seems that, at a time when the future feels so uncertain, we’re all trying to improve ourselves to take back the semblance of control.

The way this manifests itself is different for each person. For me, it was regaining control of my wardrobe – a messy microcosm of a life I no longer lived, overstuffed with items that I no longer wore. After lockdown, confined to the

Trapped within the same four walls for weeks on end, your emotions are magnified – and the ones you want to magnify are the positive ones, not the negative ones 88

same enclosed space, I was faced every day with clothes that were not only mostly impractical for a life spent writing at my kitchen table (bafflingly, I managed to accrue six dinner suits during my time at GQ), but also clothes that I had hung onto in the vain hope that I would fit into once again. Every time I opened my wardrobe, the impracticality of the former annoyed me and the latter just filled me with a daily sense of guilt that I should be down the gym. Trapped within the same four walls for weeks on end, your emotions are magnified – and the ones you want to magnify are the positive ones, not the negative ones.

Something needed to change.

“I have always lived a very minimalist lifestyle,” says Craig Hoareau, owner of personal organisation company A Tidy Mind (atidymind.co.uk) and professional decluttering coach. “Even before I did this professionally, I would know what my limit of possessions was and once I reached that limit I’d feel that it’s time for a clear out. I always found this very therapeutic and immensely helpful in coping with my stressors.”

“When it comes to clothes, you should only ever keep what you know you will wear again, makes you feel good, is in good condition and reflects your personality.”

An easy start that, if you’re anything like me, begins with an initial flurry of grizzly T-shirts that used to be white and underpants with only the semblance of elastic remaining all headed to the clothes

STYLE — organisation

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STYLE — organisation

“I think there should be a one-in-one-out rule in your wardrobe: buy better, buy less. We live in a world of over-consumption”

Organisation can streamline and focus a space – and clothing is a great place to start

recycling bank. However, the next step is harder – the one that’s less driven by practicality and more by emotion. It might be hard to part with things that you once wore, or that you hope to wear again (although deep down you know you never will), but doing so will not only improve the amount of space you have, but also your mind.

“Letting go of things is liberating,” says Hoareau. “Your outfit decision making will be easier and you will find the things you want to wear without going through the ones you don’t.”

For further advice I looked to someone who, like myself, has

accumulated a lot of clothes thanks to the very nature of his job: Christian Kimber, a British menswear designer who moved to Australia to start his eponymous tailoring label (christiankimber.com).

“I have a high rotation of new kit,” he says when I call him up in Melbourne.

“I mostly spend my time wearing our samples to death to see what updates they need, but I try to only keep a small amount of clothing in my wardrobe.

“I think there should be a one-inone-out rule in your wardrobe: buy better, buy less. We live in a world of over-consumption.”

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After all, organising your wardrobe doesn’t mean just throwing everything out, it means taking stock of what you own and what you want to own. Horeau suggests creating four piles as you go: keep, toss (recycle), donate or sell, and ‘out of season keep’ (to put away). With the space you gain in your wardrobe, consider investing in wood hangers that will support the shoulders of your clothes properly and make sure you fold your knitwear (“The rule is, if you think it will stretch, don’t hang,” says Kimber).

Get a few plastic containers for the seasonal items you wish to fold and store. Take the opportunity to take note of any moth damage to your clothes and buy lavender or repellent sachets if you’ve noticed a bug or a suspicious hole anywhere.

However, one piece of advice Horeau suggested really helped. Those piles I mentioned? Put them in another room – that way you start with a blank slate of a wardrobe and aren’t constantly seeing an insurmountable pile of your hoarding tendencies and broken sartorial dreams on the floor – only your achievements.

Of course, with charity shops closed, that currently means my donate pile is staring at me forlornly from an Ikea bag on my landing, but at least my wardrobe reflects a more streamlined, practical and positive version of me. So for anyone that’s feeling frustrated or constricted right now, I challenge you to go to your wardrobe and take stock.

Even if you only manage to bag up one T-shirt that no longer fits, you’ll be surprised at how cleansing it feels to let go of that which you no longer need – and how much more you cherish what you do.

In the grand scheme of things, it’s only a small step towards self-improvement, but at such a time, maybe that’s enough.

STYLE — must-haves

Luxury loungewear edit edit: NICK CARVELL

A SMARTER TAKE ON HOUSE SHOES

Yes, we know your team can’t see your feet on your daily video call with the office, but mentally, there’s something about wearing shoes that puts a person in a more professional mindset – even if that’s just at your laptop at the kitchen table. Go for a pair of louche, Seventies-style slip-ons that’ll instantly make you feel smarter, stand taller and, when all this is over, convert nicely into superb summer shoes (if you want to let them out of the house, that is).

MULO,

> British espadrille-maker Mulo has teamed up with loungewear-master Hamilton & Hare on a summer suede remix of its backless mules. With a cushioned footbed and shearling-lined toe box, these slip-ons will keep your feet warm and supported from sun-up to sun-down.

MULOSHOES.COM

INABO,

> Swedish shoemaker Inabo has re-imagined traditional Moroccan babouches for indoor life.

Cut from army-green suede with a leather sole and supportive footbed, these slippers make a day shuffling around the house feel as sophisticated as possible.

INABO.SE

RES IPSA,

> Founded by two lawyers bored of the uniformity of their daily, well, uniforms, Res Ipsa is an American shoe brand inspired by travel. These Babouche slippers (each unique) are made in Morocco and made from rugs woven by members of the Berber tribe in the High Atlas mountains.

RESIPSAUSA.COM

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GRENSON,

> If you want a shoe that will translate to the great outdoors after lockdown, look no further than Grenson’s sliders. Cut from sleek, chocolatebrown calf leather, they’re slicker than a Birkenstock, and will look just as good with a cosy pair of thick cashmere socks as they will all by themselves with your jeans and button-down after all this is over.

GRENSON.COM

JOHN LOBB,

> These Northampton-made sandals from John Lobb combine time-honoured English craftsmanship with signature European streamlining. Upload a background of St Tropez, slip ‘em on and pretend you’re on the French Riviera at your next Zoom meeting.

JOHNLOBB.COM

DUNHILL,

> Like the lovechild of a loafer and a slipper, these gold-plaqued, backless leather mules from Dunhill were made to bring a laid-back feel to your smartest tailoring– but we say, do it the other way around and use them to jazz up any work-fromhome vibe you’ve got going on today.

MATCHESFASHION.COM

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THE CASUAL SHIRT YOU HAVEN’T THOUGHT ABOUT

You’re probably not in the mood to go full semi-cut-away collar and tie right now, but equally you want to wear something a bit smarter than a T-shirt on your morning office check in. The solution lies in a popover, which has a half-placket of buttons to the chest rather than the whole way down (aka the only bit that can be seen on a Zoom chat anyway).

Slip it on, roll up the sleeves, get to work.

PINI PARMA,

> It might come as a surprise that the smartest model on our list is cut from denim, but hear us out. With its more tailored fit, elegant curved cuffs and more formal Windsor collar, this is a popover that will slip effortlessly under your suit on Casual Fridays when the office reopens.

PINIPARMA.COM

ETON SHIRTS,

> Known for its crisp business shirts, Swedish label Eton takes a more casual approach with its linen twill popover, which is cut 3cm shorter than its regular shirts to ensure it sits at the perfect length when worn untucked.

ETONSHIRTS.COM

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LUCA FALONI,

> Luca Faloni founded his workshop in Bergamot, Northern Italy with the sole purpose of making pieces of the highest quality and craftsmanship. This popover is a prime example, cut from fine Italian linen and finished with mother of pearl buttons.

LUCAFALONI.COM

SAMUEL NICHOLAS,

> Established in London by two brothers, Samuel and Nicholas, this label only makes three products at a time. Its latest drop is three popovers, each in a different colour linen with a different pocket combination. The black iteration, with safari shirt-style flap pockets, is a particular highlight.

SAMUELNICHOLAS.COM

STENSTROMS,

> Bringing Seventies style in spades, Stenstrom’s take on the pop-over combines a tailored cut with a kaftan vibe thanks to its combination of a Mandarin collar and single button closure.

STENSTROMS.COM

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THE NEW SUIT

If you’ve spent your career wearing a tailored two-piece suit, now’s the right time to relax that dress code right down. Wearing a suit at home feels a little ridiculous, even if you are at work, but you can still preserve that sense of having a no-nonsense ‘work uniform’ by swapping it out for a tracksuit – one crafted from beautiful materials with a cut just as trim as your tailoring.

BELLA FREUD,

> This paired-back, navy blue take on a classic go-faster tracksuit is incredibly sleek and minimal – in fact the only ornamentation is the Bella Freud logo, a dog drawn by Bella’s late father Lucian based on his favourite whippet, Pluto.

BELLAFREUD.COM

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI,

> Remember those shell suits from the Eighties? Well, this isn’t it. This one from Brunello Cuicinelli, made in the brand’s Solomeo workshop, might be made from that trademark lightweight nylon, but the geometric design in calm grey and white with a burst of soft, sunset red is a tracksuit that could only have come out of the Italian countryside.

SHOP.BRUNELLOCUCINELLI.COM

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SUNSPEL,

> British brand Sunspel has made a name for itself crafting wardrobe staples that may look simple, but are beautifully detailed upon closer inspection. Take this olivegreen tracksuit, which is finished with metal aglets as well as a double-faced hood so no lining will show when it’s down.

SUNSPEL.COM

JOHNSTON’S OF ELGIN,

> Just like your work suit that you spend all day sitting in, you want your work-from-home suit to be made from the finest fabric – and there is no finer fabric than cashmere, something Scottish brand Johnston’s of Elgin has specialised in for over 200 years.

JOHNSTONSOFELGIN.COM

UNIVERSAL WORKS,

> For a tracksuit that’s as smart as it is summerready, look into new-wave Brit brand Universal Works. Its new season terry cloth ‘beach’ tracksuit might not be able to be worn on the coast just yet, but its shorts and sweatshirt combo is perfect for warmer days on your laptop in the garden.

UNIVERSALWORKS.CO.UK

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IF YOU’RE GOING TO STAY IN YOUR PJS ALL DAY…

The pyjama shirt has become a staple of many menswear labels’ summer offerings over the past few seasons – it’s relaxed, it’s laidback, it looks great worn with a cocktail in hand at the bar on a night out. While we wait for those bars to reopen, kill two birds with one stone and invest in a set of PJs you kick around in all day with a pattern that will look just as good with a pair of jeans later this year.

LES BOYS LES GIRLS,

> Some feel that pyjamas are inherently sexless. Those people are wrong. As evidence, we present these leopard print PJs from Les Boys Les Girls, which will instantly make you feel like a rockstar chilling out after headlining Coachella.

LESGIRLSLESBOYS.COM

NEW & LINGWOOD,

< Old school in the best possible way, these striped PJs from New & Lingwood in the Old Etonian colours of navy and sky blue are cut from two-fold Italian cotton that’s such fine quality that it has a silky sheen.

NEWANDLINGWOOD.COM

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SIR PLUS,

> If there’s anything we’ve learned from classic Hollywood films, pyjamas should have a certain jauntiness to them even if the pattern’s more conservative. These are a perfect example, with a blue-on-blue polka dot jacquard design that is calm in the long shot and fun in the close up.

SIRPLUS.CO.UK

OLIVER SPENCER,

> With a relaxed fit and picnicblanket-style blue and grey mouline twisted check yarn, these cotton PJs from Oliver Spencer are the sort of pair that will look even better crumpled than crisp.

OLIVERSPENCER.CO.UK

DESMOND & DEMPSEY,

> Cuban collar shirts might have first gained popularity in ‘60s America, but Desmond & Dempsey’s pyjamas with a similar shirt cut look to ‘60s India for inspiration. This eye-catching print is composed of memorabilia from mid-century Indian cinema, from posters to matchboxes.

DESMONDANDDEMPSEY.COM

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THE DAYS DRIFT, one into another, bereft of company and isolated with no light at the end of the loneliness. Or you know, a good opportunity to finally finish Netflix. To each their own. But just because you’re stuck inside doesn’t mean you should be taking interior design tips from solitary confinement and tallying the wall with a spoon.

Given that this might not be the last time Covid-19 rears its ugly head, think of it as a chance to create a space in which you could spend four months out of the year sequestered and safe from the outside world. Those stark white walls closing in aren’t a prison; they’re an opportunity.

Curate your ideal isolation pad and next time the government mandates you stay at home, you can do your patriotic duty with a smile on your face and the knowledge that this is a storm you can ride out in style. Preferably with a glass of wine and a binge-worthy show to get stuck into.

THE ULTIMATE

ISOLATION

BUNKER

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

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The Lounge For any entertainment space the first thing you need to get right is your audio/visual set-up. Even if it’s not something you’ve been inclined to invest in in the past (for shame), when you’re spending 26 hours a day on the Netflix home screen, you’d best make sure that what you’re looking at and listening to are both top notch.

Of course, most homes don’t have room for an all-encompassing 5.1 surround sound system, especially in London. That means you need to think economically. A decent sound bar with plenty of bass is all the cinema sound you’ll need, while a good-sized screen can be made all the more so by eliminating the TV bezel. If your fellow bunker-dwellers aren’t into the same music or don’t want to hear the gunfire of whatever FPS is your poison, then headphones are the answer.

As this is a room you’ll be spending plenty (read, too much) time in, a good bit of art and a decent place to lounge are necessities too. Think relaxed, pared-back vibes with a splash of colour where you can feel right at home. For the foreseeable.

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SAMSUNG Q950TS 8K QLED TV, £5,999

This 65-inch number should be more than enough for most, given that the infinity screen goes right to the edges (99 per cent of the frontage is pixels) for a larger, uninterrupted picture. Throw in the blackest of blacks and machine learning to upscale non-8K media, the Q950TS will have you glued to the screen, finally for good reason. samsung.com

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WARWICK ACOUSTICS APERIO HEADPHONE SYSTEM,

BO CONCEPT INDIVI SOFA,

This isn’t your average pair of headphones; in fact, it’s as far from average as sound quality can get. Using planar electrostatic technology, these are state-of-the-art and come complete with their very own amp to maximise audio quality and clarity. They’re also incredibly comfortable, an often understated necessity for long term listening, whether it’s streaming through your favourite playlists, raiding your old vinyl collection, or enjoying a film.

There’s no other headphone quite like it. warwickacoustics.com

This minimal corner sofa is as understated as it is comfortable, perfect for lounging day in, day out. The soft, neutral grey creates a relaxed feel and stops the large, modular corner set-up dominating the room too much. You can switch the steel legs out for wood to enhance the Scandi vibe, but stick to the grey over white.

This is the centre of the home and sod's law dictates that a white sofa won’t remain so for long. boconcept.com

£19,995

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NOURISON TWILIGHT RUG, FROM £899

As the prophetic Dude once said, a rug really ties the room together. That’s never been more true than in this floor covering come abstract art piece from Nourison.

Balance the comfort of neutral ivory colour and a sumptuous wool blend with a twisting blue shape like ink dropped in water. It’s impactful but not domineering and comes in a variety of sizes to suit most room sizes. Pair with neutral furniture and some colourful contemporary art (see below) and you’re all set. nourison.com

BANG & OLUFSEN BEOSOUND STAGE, £1,900

Sleek and minimal, B&O’s latest soundbar hits well above its weight class in the sound stakes. It’s not quite the same as having a whole five-channel surround-sound system, but if you want to balance space with power then this is the one for you. The eleven-driver set-up includes four woofers, eliminating the need for a separate sub, all wrapped up in a Scandi-inspired design. bang-olufsen.com

JONATHAN PURDAY, MEDITATION IN RED 2015, £750

Balance all the modern minimalism and Scandinavianinspired neutrality with a pop of colour via this striking print from perspective-shifting contemporary artist Jonathan Purday. Part of the aptly-named Canopy Memories series, this flash of pink and red foliage against a blue sky brings a slice of the outdoors in. There’s also the chance that, once isolation lifts, this piece could be worth a little bit more than when it started. That’s always a positive. eyestorm.com

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OONI KODA OUTDOOR PIZZA OVEN, £249

What it lacks in stature this diminutive pizza oven more than makes up for in flavour. Hitting a whopping 500 degrees Celsius (hence it needing to be outdoors) it takes just 60 seconds for the Koda to ready some stone-baked deliciousness to rival your favourite, now shut-down pizzeria. Best of all, it’s small enough to fit in any outdoor space you can find – patio, balcony, overlarge windowsill, where there’s a will (for pizza) there’s a way. uk.ooni.com

The Epicurean Haven If, like us, you find yourself structuring your days around eating and drinking, then you’ll want to make sure you’re revelling in the finest of epicurean delights. After all, how can your home be your castle without a wine cellar worthy of a king? Store yourself enough vintages and the occasional spirit and you won’t need to worry about where your next alcoholic hit is coming from; you’ll have a stockpile you can spend your months exploring, cocktail by cocktail, bottle by bottle.

Spending your time under house arrest means you have no excuse not to try a few new recipes, something you’ll be all the more inclined to do with some serious cookware. It’s not just practical; opt for something bright and flashy and it’s an easy way to give your kitchen a facelift without stripping everything out and starting again.

Hopefully some of that brightness will work its way into the food; just because your sequestered in your own home doesn’t mean you need to live off bunker rations. At least, not right away.

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BARISIEUR COFFEE ALARM CLOCK, £399

Forget your usual chrome-clad coffee machines; this strippeddown hipster’s dream of a coffee maker distils the process to the alchemy it so very much is. This construction of scientific beakers and wood both boils water and keeps milk cool and, thanks to a timer, will have your rocket fuel of choice ready first thing in the morning. Hell, the Barisieur doubles as an alarm clock, meaning you can even more it to the bedroom if a single step without caffeine is an issue. joyresolve.com

XL BOOM PICO WINE RACK, £130

This colourful bent-iron tower of hexagons is a bright yet simple way to store your wine. It starts with room for 15 bottles but can be stacked up to cover an entire wall or dotted about like a wine-loving design feature. You can even colour-code your bottles if you’re so inclined. Cool, contemporary and fun, likely the opposite of whatever rare vintages you happen to be hoarding. xlboom.com

SPIRAL CELLAR, FROM £18,800

The name says it all. This space-saving masterpiece is essentially a spiral staircase set right into your foundations and lined with all of your finest wines. The underground setting keeps things cool and it’s one hell of a statement if someone breaks isolation to come over for a glass or two. Each is custom built to your own specs. Wine, unfortunately, not included. spiralcellars.co.uk

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NAPPA DORI ARTISANAL BAR TOOL SET, £120

A poor workman blames his tools, but it’s hard to be a cocktail maestro without a decent jigger.

With this five-piece brass set it’ll definitely be your mixology at fault if an Old Fashioned goes awry.

Presented in a black leather case, each meticulously crafted item has its place. Granted it looks a little like a dentist’s kit (at least in our nightmares) but that adds just the pop of ceremony a good cocktail needs. nappadori.com

With this five-piece brass set it’ll definitely be your mixology at fault if an Old Fashioned goes awry

MAUVIEL M’150 COPPER SIXPIECE COOKWARE SET, £1,555

A flash of copper cookware is what any kitchen needs for a refresh and, if that’s the route you want to head down, you might as well go for the best. Mauviel is in the finest tradition of French haute cuisine and this six-piece set has all the pots and pans you need to flex your culinary skills.

The high-performance, easy-to-use set is worth investing in, even if you decide to order in. mauviel.com

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Home Gym As of writing we’re still allowed out to exercise; who knows if that’ll continue for long? Or, if and when this all happens again, we’ll be allowed out at all? That means no park runs, no Cross Fit and no personal trainers. Your PB is never going to be beaten at this rate.

But just like everything else, enterprising tech has made sure that we never need to leave our homes, even to do something as necessarily outdoorsy as exercise. Weights? Easy, you can get a full, professional-standard set. Cardio? Try a treadmill, spinning bike, or one of the many mechanisms to imitate the real world. Yoga? Not sure why you’d bother leaving the house for that in the first place, but sure, that too.

There are even ways of joining exercise classes and personal training sessions that don’t involve any human interaction – and are a damn sight better than following along on YouTube. At a time when we need to keep fitter and healthier than ever, don’t let something as simple as a global pandemic force you to skip leg day.

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NOHRD SPRINTBOK, FROM £5,295

From overly complex dumbbells to a stripped back treadmill, NOHrD’s SprintBok doesn’t even need to be plugged in. The curved manual treadmill not only looks lovely with its natural wood finish, but it burns 30 per cent more calories than a powered version and its only restriction is how fast you yourself can run – selfdeterministic exercise at its finest.

Personally we love the Walnut finish, though it is a little pricier at £6,095. nohrd.com

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TECHNOGYM MYCYCLING INDOOR TRAINER, £1,590

Don’t leave your bike shoved away in a shed while you remain stuck in the house; just take off the back wheel, pop it on Technogym’s latest indoor cycling gadget and put it through its paces once again. Link the trainer to the app and it’ll do the same to you with certified coaches to help push your progress, even if you’re not actually hitting the road. technogym.com

TANGRAM SMART ROPE, £80

Probably the best value-for-money, space-saving piece of gym paraphernalia you could buy is a skipping rope. All you need is space to hop up and down and you can get your cardio on. This though is not your average piece of rope; not only does it track your fitness data, but it displays it in mid-air via LED lights along its length.

You’ll never lose track of your number of jumps again. tangramfactory.com/

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HOCK DESIGN LOFT DUMBBELL SET, £5,995

Not all dumbbells are born equal, and we don’t just mean in weight. This insanely cool, minimalist set from HOCK Design is as much an interior designs statement as it is a workout necessity. Lustrous walnut, curved, mushroom-shaped chrome weights and a free-standing vertical rack, this is the set for anyone that wants to sweat in style. The set is comprised of two- to six-kilogram weights, so suitable for most work-outs. hockdesign.com

1REBEL ONLINE WORKOUTS, £15.99 / MONTH

LUX DECO ASPEN TALL MIRROR,

Even before lockdown getting to your gym class was a pain, one that smelled of sweat and judgement. Now the fitness freaks at 1Rebel are offering an impressive series of regularly updated virtual classes you can do from the discomfort of your own home. It includes the signature Reshape and Rumble workouts, as well as over 130 other sessions. Best of all, nobody can see you sweat. tv.rebel.com

Every gym needs a mirror but, in lieu of a studio-style reflective wall, this massive 220cm tall number does nicely. Inspired by alpine chalets, it’s more homely and comfortable than most gyms but makes for a nice contrast with the otherwise technical machines a solid workout necessitates, perfect for dominating and visually extending an otherwise sparse, functional space. luxdeco.com

The fitness freaks at 1Rebel are offering an impressive series of regularly updated virtual classes you can do from the discomfort of your own home

£1,500

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WOLF 1834 BARON 24-PIECE CABINET WINDERE, £18,999

This magnificent cabinet can’t help but be the centre of any collection. With room for 24 timepieces, it can hold all – or at least a good portion of – your collection, displayed, wound and ready to be worn. With its Bluetooth connection and host of different settings (number of rotations, rotation direction and start delay to name a few) you can even customise it to your collection. It’s a showstopper, and a useful one at that. wolf1834.com

Office Space Despite isolation, some of us still need to work, meaning the necessity for a room that’s a little bit closer to office than it is lounge. That said, even if you don’t need to get on with the daily grind, having a bit more of a grown-up space to spend a few quiet hours is a tried-and-true method of staying sane.

It’s also a good opportunity to get hands-on with your watch collection which, for us, is of vital importance. Sure, you might not need to wear one on a daily basis, but we’ll be damned if that means forgetting about them altogether. Hide yourself a little nip of something old and extravagant nearby and you have a space all your own.

If that space evokes the glamour and elegance of an early 20th-century magnate, all the better.

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AERIN CLEMENTE DESK LAMP, £590

Good lighting is all-important, especially with something as fiddly as changing a strap – or just doing a bit of quiet reading away from whatever’s banging out on Netflix. Inspired by 19th-century industrial lighting, this elegant lamp from Aerin is pure vintage class dressed in antique brass.

If you want a touch of the old world at home, look no further. aerin.com

ABP CONCEPT STRAP CHANGING KIT, £313

This beautifully-presented box of horological geekiness from Parisian strap specialist ABP Concept includes everything you need to quickly change any strap or bracelet. From spring bar pliers and a host of screwdrivers to a 5X magnifying loupe, if you can’t change a strap with all this you have no business being around watches. It even comes with a black strap-changing pad so you don’t lose any pieces, and the whole thing is wrapped up in a secret-agent-style travel case. abpconcept.paris

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FRONT FRONT — —isolation microbrands pad

DOM EDIZIONI MATTHIEU WRITING DESK, £7,920

Any office needs a desk worthy of a CEO, even if that CEO isn’t allowed out the front door. This made-to-order masterpiece from Dom Edizioni combines strong, modern lines with plenty of brass highlights and glossy Macassar ebony. It’s commanding, edgy and incredibly luxurious, the perfect centrepiece for a space that means business. domedizioni.com

VISTA ALEGRE ATLAS WHISKEY DECANTER, £170

A twist on the cliché drinking glove, this decanter from Portuguese specialist Vista Alegre takes the tried-and-true, globetrotting appeal of an atlas with a traditional whiskey decanter. The golden map is hand-applied to the fine crystal, leaving plenty of space between the lines of latitude and longitude to let through the richer gold of your vintage of choice. vistaalegre.com

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RAPPORT LONDON FORMULA WIRELESS CHARGING TRAY, £250

When you’re working on your watches and need somewhere to put your necessities – or just need to keep your work phone topped up – this elegant watch box from Rapport London is the ideal desk companion. As well as space for your daily-wear watch, rings and whatever else might scratch precious metal while changing a strap, it also has a wireless charger.

Dressed in Macassar ebony, it’s as handsome as it is practical. rapportlondon.com

© Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 42mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Miyota 9015 calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • Euro 650, aevig.com

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AEVIG Huldra

Retro divers are a dime a baker’s dozen by this point. As our ultimate microbrand guide (p51) illustrates nicely, it’s the go-to design school for any startup with a few quid to scratch together a prototype. It’s kind of fitting that diving watches are saturated, but it doesn’t make wading through the flotsam and jetsam any easier.

Nowadays it takes a concerted effort for any design to stand out from the rest of the 60s throwbacks and 70s archival designs, the retro-inspired new-vintage future-classics.

It takes an even rarer animal to do so for the right reasons.

The Huldra is nicely in the second group.

It’s not uncommon to see watches emulating the early 70s playing with hexagons, though that’s normally to invoke the spirit of Gerald Genta. The Huldra instead uses hexagonal indexes, essentially diminutive versions of their logo and the result is charming rather than industrial. It’s a nice point of difference from the circular bezel, curved case and otherwise smooth lines across the board.

Colourwise, the one we have is a bright teal blue, none of this midnight malarkey. You’d never think this is black, no matter the lighting, and it’s the kind of pop of colour you could see from down the street. You know, if we weren’t all trying to stay off the streets.

It does come in other colours too and I’d particularly like to get my grubby little paws on the green or orange versions.

Those last two though use white lume rather than the beige

The use of a Miyota has a lot to say about why the Huldra is such an exceptional value proposition

seen here which is a shame; the Huldra is one of the few times I actually prefer the retro-shaded indexes.

In fact, the only aspect I’m unsure of is the date window.

It’s a nice touch that it’s shaped to mirror the arrow hour markers at 3 and 9, but it doesn’t help visibility, making it look a little crowded. There are other versions of the Huldra without the date, which I’d probably go for if given the choice.

At 42mm it’s larger than many a diver with vintage aspirations, but I found it genuinely wearable, which isn’t something I can say for many modern divers. A good part of that is because the lugs, integrated into the lozenge case, are pretty short, only extending the across-the-wrist width to 46mm.

The weight is just what you want from a tool watch without a scrap of titanium in sight. You might disagree, but I like a good heft to something that’s meant to survive the odd shark attack, even if I don’t plan on getting into the water.

It’s finished nicely too, brushed on top and polished on the sides. It’s an attention to detail I honestly didn’t expect at this price point.

The same goes for the bezel. I like the dial-matched bezel as opposed to the black-on-blue option, but more importantly is the satisfying click when you rotate and how solidly it stops if you try to go in reverse. A lot can be said about bezel construction; I won’t, but it does have a certain reassurance of quality.

Paired with an incredibly comfortable bracelet, it’s a sporty, solidly constructed piece that treads a careful line between the usual tiny divers with vintage origins and the machismolaced, larger models of today.

Inside is the Miyota 9015 automatic movement which is at the cheaper end of the spectrum of third-party movements.

But then, nowadays automatic movements are much of a muchness, with the only real difference being the finishing.

Given that the Huldra, like any true diver, has a solid caseback – nicely finished with Aevig’s hexagonal logo once again – why pay more for something you’re not going to see? The use of a Miyota has a lot to say about why the Huldra is such an exceptional value proposition.

And exceptional it is. Retro without being cliché, solid without being over the top and colourful without being ostentatious, it’s one of the most well-balanced vintage-inspired divers I’ve worn recently – at any price range.

Euro 650, aevig.com

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© Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 42mm titanium case water resistant to 300m • Domed, scratch‑resistant sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective treatment • £7,390, omegawatches.com

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OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition While the 25th instalment of the unstoppable franchise may be delayed until November 2020, the watch that will be decorating Daniel Craig’s (reluctant) wrist has already hit markets.

Despite No Time to Die being the ninth film under Omega’s product placement stewardship, it will be the sixth time the Omega featured will be a Seamaster Professional 300M, with the first appearance being in the iconic Goldeneye on the wrist of Pierce Brosnan. That said, it’s probably most famous for its starring role in Casino Royale: “Rolex?” “Omega.”

For the latest version Omega has brought back the 300m and tailored it to Daniel Craig’s physical, no-nonsense take on the world’s worst secret agent.

The latest Bond watch marks a transition from the 300m water-resistant diver we all know and love into a vintagestyle military watch. For that, Omega has dropped the collection’s signature wavy dial in favour of a piece of matte anodized aluminium designed to fade over time, complete with tan indices that glow blue in low light. Between that and the lack of a date window, this new take falls firmly in the field-watch aesthetic.

It’s not just a dial swap either; the seamless sapphire crystal has been swapped out for a vintage-inspired dome, and the strap options reflect the heavy duty military design roots.

That means a NATO strap, but also a titanium Milanese number.

The function over form continues to the case, too, which boasts sand-blasted matte rather than polished surfaces.

It’s something you often see in spec ops-designed timepieces where you don’t want a glint of light at the wrong time giving you away. The same goes for the bezel, which switches from ceramic to the same aluminium as the dial, designed to fade at roughly the same rate. It’ll scratch more than ceramic, but that’s just the kind of wear and tear you want from a functional field watch – you want proof that it’s seen some action. The changes for the latest 007 Edition are far from skin-deep however.

Daniel Craig’s input has never been at the forefront of his character’s timepieces, but he had one stipulation this time: to keep it light. All those hours on set must be taking their toll. Omega kept to that extensive brief by milling the 42mm case out of grade-2 titanium. It’s also slightly squatter than the standard 300m, all the better to slip under a cuff.

Inside features Omega’s 8806 Co-Axial escapement Master Chronometer featuring a silicone hairspring. That means it’s antimagnetic up to 15,000 gauss and impressively shock resistant. Add in the patented George Daniels Co-Axial escapement and a 55-hour power reserve and you have a watch even Bond couldn’t accidentally wreck.

That said, you’ll have to take my word for it as the caseback is solid rather than exhibition. Still, Omega has made it a

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feature, with an engraved code. That number states that it’s from the Royal Navy, that it’s a diving watch and then two numbers that any Bond fan knows: his agent number and the year Dr. No was released. To hammer home the British connection, the caseback is finished with the Broad Arrow of the Ministry of Defence.

Visually, this is one of the coolest Seamasters ever built.

I don’t mind a good diving watch, but I love my military pieces and this threads the needle between the two flawlessly.

I’ve never been on board with the wavy dial of the 300m, despite it being the collection’s signature flourish, so having this relatively sparse aluminium version suits me nicely.

I know the helium escape valve is hit-and-miss with some people, but for me it differentiates the Seamaster from the flood of other divers out there, and I’m glad this more militaristic version keeps that – despite it being unnecessary for all but saturation divers.

In fact, the only downside for me is the price. At £7,000, you’re paying £3,000 over the basic steel version for the new look, case and Bond connection – almost double.

Not that it matters though; as you’d expect, the 007 edition is sold out – though only for now. Unlike previous film tieins, this will remain part of the collection until the next film hits. Given that they’ll need to find a new 007 between now and then, prospects are looking good. Let’s just hope the film lives up to the watch. £7,390, omegawatches.com

Daniel Craig’s input has never been at the forefront, but he had one stipulation this time: to keep it light

CULTURE — food & drink

1 / YAUTCHA Devour some delicious dim sum without leaving the sofa. Also available on the Supper app and website, bite into seafood and black truffle dumplings and mushroom spring rolls and imagine you’re dining on a much quieter night at Yautcha.

The scallop shui mai and char sui buns should top your list along with the crystal jade dumplings and the iconic venison puff. Oh that venison puff! If you simply can’t choose, there are a selection of sets for convenience. Don’t forget to order some sides of steamed jasmine rice and stir-fried greens to round your meal off in full. The good thing about Yautcha’s takeaway is the patisserie is included, and you’ll be glad to know you can order a selection of the restaurant’s famous macarons and handcrafted cakes. yauatcha.com

EDITED BY AMIRA

RESTAURANT &BAR

2 / HAKKASAN If you’re fancying yourself some luxury Cantonese this quarantine, you can enjoy a selection of the Mayfair restaurant’s signature dishes and set menus – all available on Supper (an upscale Deliveroo, if you’d like). Hakkasan at Home, as the group is calling this venture, will allow you to feast upon the grilled Chilean sea bass with honey and black truffle-roasted duck. Or perhaps you’d prefer to indulge in some heartier meat dishes, in which case the stir-fry black pepper rib of beef with Merlot is on the menu – as is the sweet and sour Berkshire pork. Add some greens to your plate with baby broccoli and sugar snap peas with eringi mushrooms and enjoy the Hakka noodles or some fried rice on the side. You can even choose your favourite wines, beers and spirits from the restaurant, pairing your gourmet meal with a Sancerre, Gavi or even a 2010 Riserva, should you wish. hakkasan.com

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NEWS Alas, isolation means that many of us are having to go without a quick lunch or indulgent dinner at our favourite eateries. Luckily, many of those same eateries are coming to us. Restaurants big and small are delivering during the lockdown so you don’t have to go without your Michelin meals and fine-dining favourites for long.

Just make sure you check you’re within delivery radius before ordering. It sounds obvious but, well… we’ve all been there.

CULTURE — food & drink

If you fancy venison mince, the notorious venison haggis and Tomahawk beef steak, it’s worth looking into the Meat Survival Box

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5 / MACELLAIO RC

3 / MAC & WILD Get your fine Scottish meat fix thanks to Mac & Wild. The restaurant has launched its online butcher to offer guests-turned-customers the best beef and game. There’s even Mac & Wild’s own venison haggis on the menu and it’s all available for home delivery across the UK, directly from the Highlands.

Choose from top quality six-week dry aged beef fillet steaks, six-week dry aged rib roast beef, Ayrshire middle bacon, beef sausages, leg of Highland Hill lamb and free-range Highland chicken. Not only do you get your delivery of high-quality meats, but all produce will also be accompanied by Mac & Wild’s own recommendations, recipes and tips on storage and freezing. If you fancy venison mince, the notorious venison haggis and Tomahawk beef steak, it’s worth looking into the Meat Survival Box, which incorporates the best of Mac & Wild’s menu straight to your home. macandwild.com

4 / BENARES Forget your local Indian takeaway; this is isolation in style. If you’ve been craving tandoor lamb chops or samosas during isolation, Benares is the one. Paneer curry or lamb rogan josh are just as good without Benares’ opulent décor; but just 4 order an extra serving of black dhal to make up for it. Stock up on the rotis and naan breads; it’s harder to ‘just order another one’ when you’re getting delivery and you can always heat them up the next day for leftovers. Indian is one of the few fine-dining meals that will actually keep. If anything, it’ll taste better the next day. If you’re looking for another excuse to order from Benares, the restaurant is donating one meal to NHS workers in the area for every meal ordered. As well as being available on Supper and Deliveroo, the restaurant is operating its own delivery service within the M25 too. benaresrestaurant.com

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South Kensington, Clerkenwell, Battersea and Union Street residents are all very lucky; they live nearby Macellaio RC, an underrated gem of a steakhouse in London. Macellaio at Home is now live so order over the phone and enjoy free delivery if you live within a 15-minute walk of your nearest restaurant. If you’re a bit further out, you can go through Deliveroo, so check the app or website to see if you’re within the catchment area. Salivate as you read the menu and choose between the different cuts, including a seven to nine weeks dry aged beef rib or t-bone steak. Although the beef tataki is superb, the tuna tataki and charcuterie boards also excel in the starters section. If you’re missing some essentials from your kitchen cupboard, Spaccio del Macellaio (the restaurant’s corner pantry shop) sells pasta, sauces, meats, cheeses and olives (as well as cuts of steak to cook yourself at home) that can be added to your delivery. macellaiorc.com

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CULTURE — food & drink

6 / PIDGIN Although Pidgin had to close its doors, like the other restaurants, you can still get your hands on the weekly changing menus. The award-winning Hackney restaurant is operating a special collection service dubbed ‘Homing’ Pidgin’. The menu for the coming week will go live every Sunday at 9pm – make a note in your calendar as they aren’t taking any pre-orders. It’s collection only but the restaurant is accepting Ubers to collect your meal on your behalf as long as you specify in the ‘additional notes’. Obviously the menu is everchanging but if you put in your order, expect to be dining on delicacies such as broccoli salad with wild mushroom and apple cider braised pork belly with a warm lentil salad and lemon and cardamom tahini dressing. pidginlondon.com

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The menu for the coming week will go live every Sunday at 9pm

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7 / ISHBILIA Have fine, authentic Lebanese cuisine delivered to your door, courtesy of Ishibila and, once again, the Supper app or website. Proud to have welcomed its fair share of celebrities and Middle Eastern royalty through its doors, Ishibila’s delivery menu offers diners a selection of hot and cold mezze, as well as larger grilled plates. Think moutabal (chargrilled aubergine), tabouleh (chopped parsley salad) and labneh (a yoghurt and cream cheese dip). For those who are more liberal with their dinner, I highly recommend the hot hummus with lamb, as well as kibbeh (deep fried lamb), sambousek (in either cheese or lamb) and the manakeish (baked flatbreads with various toppings).

There are many lamb and chicken grill options, including shawarmas and shish styles, for which the Knightsbridge restaurant is known. ishbilia.com

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8 / STICKS ‘N’ SUSHI After a brief closure, Sticks ‘n’ Sushi’s King’s Road and Wimbledon restaurants are back up and running for takeaway. Sushi is probably one of the things most people are craving yet it is one of the harder dishes to make and, so far, hasn’t emerged as an isolation trend or challenge. So it is safe to say the King’s Road branch being open is great news to South West and West London residents – although check the Deliveroo app to see if you’re within catchment. If you can make the journey and back within your one-hour walk or bike ride, you will not regret it when you’re biting into that Ebi Panko (tempura shrimp and avocado) roll or enjoying the sweet and soft miso marinated black cod yakitori stick. Order a selection of snacks such as the crab croquettes with wasabi caesar dressing or the grilled cauliflower with black truffle sauce or indulge in a Sushi Sister (a full sashimi set, featuring salmon, sea bass, scallop and more). If you’re less of a sushi lover, you can choose the Robust set menu, featuring all the grilled options. sticksnsushi.com

CULTURE — food & drink

Haute Cuisine at Home

If, for whatever reason, you don’t fancy ordering in – again! – or simply want to expand your own repertoire of dishes for when lockdown finally lifts, we have you covered with a quartet of seasonally-appropriate masterpieces from a pair of truly masterful chefs.

From the incredible Michel Roux Jr we have lobster and scallop ravioli and crab quiche, both light, flavourful summer dishes sure to impress.

From Adam Handling we have punchy tuna and beef tartare with kimchi and the ultimate seasonal pudding, rhubarb with rose and saffron. They’re all relatively easy as these things go, but don’t worry if you don’t manage perfectly first time; there’s months to practice ahead.

1 3 4 2

1 — QUICHE AU CRABE Crab Quiche

Taken from Michel Roux Jr’s The French Kitchen, Weidenfeld & Nicolson One of my favourite quiches, this is rich and full-flavoured with a touch of curry heat. I like to serve it with a little grilled endive – the slightly bitter smokiness sets off the sweetness of the crab perfectly. Use any kind of endive, such as Belgian or radicchio.

Serves 8-10

Ingredients 1 medium leek • 1 tbsp unsalted butter • 1 tbsp Madras curry powder • 250g fresh white crabmeat • 6 free-range yolks • 2 free-range eggs • 200ml milk • 400ml double cream • 60g Gruyère cheese, grated • Salt • Black pepper Shortcrust pastry: 250g plain flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting • 120g cold unsalted butter, diced • 1 free-range egg, beaten • 1 tsp salt • 2 tbsp cold water Endive: 4-5 heads endive • Olive oil

Method Start by making the pastry.

Put the sifted flour on a clean, cold surface and make a well in the centre, then add the diced butter, egg and salt. Using your fingertips, work all the ingredients together, gradually drawing in the flour. Once the mixture has a sandy consistency, add the cold water and gently knead the pastry until smooth – but take care not to overwork it.

Shape it into a ball, wrap in cling film and leave it to rest in the fridge for 2 hours.

Roll out the pastry on a floured surface to a circle

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about 3mm thick and use this to line a buttered 24cm flan ring. Leave the pastry to rest in the fridge again for at least 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 200˚C/Fan 180˚C/Gas 6. Prick the pastry with a fork, line it with greaseproof paper and fill with baking beans, then bake for 20 minutes. Remove the paper and beans and put the pastry back into the oven for another 10 minutes or until the base has cooked but not taken on too much colour. Leave the oven on.

For the filling, trim the leek and split it in half lengthways.

Cut it into fine strips, wash these well in cold water, then drain and dry on a cloth. Melt the butter in a wide saucepan, then add the leek and cook gently until tender. Season

CULTURE — food & drink

with a little salt, pepper and the curry powder and continue to cook for 2-3 minutes, then tip everything into a mixing bowl and leave to cool.

Pick through the crabmeat to remove any bones or cartilage and add it to the leek.

Whisk the yolks and whole eggs, add the milk and cream and season. Stir the egg mixture into the leek and crab, then pour everything into the pastry base. Gently place the quiche in the oven, still at 200˚C/Fan 180˚C/Gas 6, and bake for 25 minutes. Sprinkle the grated cheese on top and cook for another 5 minutes or until golden and set. Remove the quiche from the oven and leave to cool a little before cutting it into slices to serve.

To prepare the endive, cut them in half, drizzle with olive oil and season. Heat a ridged grill pan, add the endive and grill until pleasingly charred.

2 — RAVIOLES DE HOMARD ET ST JACQUES

Pan-Fried Lobster and Scallop Ravioli Taken from Michel Roux Jr’s The French Kitchen, Weidenfeld & Nicolson This is my take on dim sum and uses a different sort of pasta dough to the normal kind. You can make the ravioli any shape you like, but they must contain the filling effectively and be well sealed, as they are fried briefly before serving.

Serves 4 Ingredients Pasta Dough 250g plain white flour • 75g free-range egg whites • 50g warm water • 1 tbsp olive oil • Pinch of salt Filling: 8 large scallops (white meat only) • 1 x 500g cooked lobster • Olive oil • Salt • Black pepper Sauce: 2 shallots, peeled and sliced • 1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped • 2 sprigs of marjoram • 120ml dry white

wine • 6 sundried tomatoes (not in oil), chopped • 500ml lobster stock • 2 tbsp cold unsalted butter, cubed • Salt • Black pepper Garnish: 4 tomatoes, peeled, deseeded, and diced • Marjoram leaves Method First make the pasta dough.

Put the flour in a bowl, add the remaining ingredients and knead to make an elastic, but not sticky, dough. Leave the dough to rest in the fridge for at least 20 minutes, then roll it out on the ‘o’ setting on the pasta machine.

Chop the scallops into 3mm dice. Break up the lobster, cutting the tail into quarters for the garnish. Extract all the rest of the lobster meat and cut into 5mm dice, then mix with the diced scallops and season with salt and a generous amount of pepper.

The shape of the ravioli is up to you, but the simplest method is to cut the pasta dough into 24 circles of about 6cm in diameter. Divide the scallop and lobster filling between 12 of the circles.

Brush the borders with water to moisten, then top with the remaining circles and press down well around the edges to seal.

Bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the ravioli and cook for 4 minutes. Remove the ravioli and plunge them into iced water to stop them cooking, then carefully drain and dry on a cloth and lightly drizzle them with olive oil.

Keep the ravioli refrigerated until needed.

For the sauce, put the shallots, garlic and marjoram in a pan with the white wine and boil until the liquid has almost completely evaporated. Add the sundried tomatoes and lobster stock, then bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes.

Pass the sauce through a fine sieve, then pour it back into the pan, season and finish with the cold butter to thicken and shine. Keep the sauce warm while you finish the ravioli.

Pan-fry the ravioli in a hot non-stick pan until golden on

both sides and hot inside.

Serve in warm bowls with the piping hot sauce and garnish with diced tomatoes and lobster claws and a few marjoram leaves.

You can make the ravioli any shape you like, but they must contain the filling effectively and be well sealed, as they are fried briefly before serving

3 — RHUBARB, ROSE, SAFFRON Serves 5

Ingredients Rhubarb and rose syrup 500g rhubarb • 500g water • 250g sugar • 15g dried rose buds • 10g dried hibiscus Method Cut the rhubarb roughly the same size, boil the sugar, water and dried flowers then remove the dried flowers, add rhubarb and bring back to the boil until rhubarb is soft. Remove from the heat, and cover with cling film and i leave to cool down.

Keep it in the fridge overnight, then separate the syrup but keep the rhubarb Rhubarb gel Ingredients 500ml rhubarb syrup • 9g agar-agar • 15g sugar Method In a saucepan, mix the sugar with the agar and add rhubarb syrup and bring to the boil boil for 2 mins, whisking all the time. Pour into a container and leave to set in the fridge.

Rhubarb Terrine Ingredients 250g rhubarb syrup • 2.5g agar agar • 500g rhubarb Method Line a terrine mould with triple cling film, bring the rhubarb syrup and agar agar to the boil,

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place a small ladle of the liquid into the terrine mould and add 1/3 of your poached rhubarb making sure there are no gaps.Work quickly add another layer of the gel and follow with more rhubarb finally add the remaining gel and fold the cling film over. Place another terrine mould on top and leave to set Saffron Ice Cream Ingredients 1kg milk • 200g cream • 50g milk powder • 200g egg yolks • 150g sugar • 250g white chocolate • 5g gelatine powder, dissolved in water • pinch salt • pinch saffron Method Boil the milk, cream and milk powder. Whisk together yolks and sugar. Melt white chocolate over a bain marie.

Add saffron and gelatine to milk. Pour half over the yolks and give a good whisk, add back to the pan and cook to 82°C. Add the melted chocolate and mix with a hand blender to ensure its all emulsified. Pop into the freezer overnight.

4 — TUNA & BEEF TARTARE, KIMCHI For 2 portions

Ingredients 70g 5mm diced tuna • 70g 5mm diced filet beef • 10g chopped chives • 1 tbsp kimchi emulsion • 1/2 tsp kimchi base • Pinch of crispy onions • Black sesame – pinch • Togarashi – pinch Kimchi emulsion: Kimchi base • ½ tsp Harissa • 1tbsp Mayonnaise Incorporate everything – mix together well Soy cured egg yolks: Take the yolk out of the egg and cover in soy sauce • Remove egg yolk after 12hrs Sourdough croutons : Preheat oven to 175C • Thinly slice sourdough bread • Bake for 15 minutes or until crisp • Let cool.

Garnish • Garden herbs

CULTURE — home cocktails

For whatever reason, pubs and bars have not been considered essential in this time of crisis. While we’d beg to disagree, that doesn’t mean we can’t enjoy a good drink at home.

Don’t worry, we’re not talking foams, smokes and tinctures derived from exotic animals, just simple, delicious (not to mention punchy) cocktails, courtesy of Anna Sebastien, bar manager of the phenomenal Artesian at the Langham Hotel.

Just don’t use these as an excuse for day drinking. That way lies madness, trust us.

STRAWBERRY WINE SPRITZ Make the best use of bad wine with this spritz, made with your very own home-made strawberry wine. Waste not, want not!

INGREDIENTS • 1 bottle of cheap white wine • 150g sugar • 150g vodka (however any light spirit will work) • 1 punnet of strawberries • Soda, Prosecco or tonic water (whatever your preference is!) to finish • Mint sprig to garnish

Words:

METHOD First we need to make the strawberry wine itself: • Cut the strawberries into thin slices to extract as much of the flavour as possible • Put the first four ingredients together into a Tupperware container • Stir thoroughly • Leave overnight • Strain through a tea towel and strainer • Bottle and keep in the fridge Now we have the home-made wine, onto the cocktail!

• Add 100ml of the strawberry wine to a glass • Fill with ice • Top with your mixer of choice • Stir, garnish and enjoy

Anna Sebastien

COCKTAILS AT HOME Embrace your inner mixologist and keep it sophisticated as you imbibe in isolation

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CULTURE — home cocktails

TEQLINI Sweet, bitter, sour, this tequila-based concoction is an assault on the senses in the best possible way, fresh and delicious – and the only equipment you need is a blender.

This tequila-based concoction is an assault on the senses in the best possible way

PEAR OLD FASHIONED An Artesian classic for some world-class mixology in under a minute. That said, take more time drinking it than making it; it’s a lot stronger than it tastes.

INGREDIENTS • 50ml Bourbon • 35ml Pear Cordial • Pinch of salt METHOD • In a mixing vessel min fill with a good amount of ice • Add in 35ml Pear Cordial and 50ml Bourbon and a small pinch of salt • Stir for 30/40 seconds • Serve over fresh ice in a rocks glass • Garnish with a slice of pear if you wish!

MAKING THE PEAR CORDIAL

Simple: Mix together the below ingredients, put in a Tupperware box and seal and leave to infuse for 24 hours. Add to whatever drink you want to give a fruity twist.

• • • • •

350ml Water 200g Sugar 150 diced pear with skin on Citric acid (if not 20ml lemon juice) 20ml vodka (to preserve it)

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INGREDIENTS • 30ml tequila • 20ml Aperol • 30ml mango juice • 30ml lime juice • Pinch of salt • Tea spoon of sugar METHOD • Blend all the ingredients together in your blender with three cubes of ice until all blended together • Pour into a Champagne glass • Top up with tonic water • Enjoy and pretend you are on a beach!

CULTURE — wines

NUIT ST GEORGES LES MURGERS DES CRAS PERROT MINOT 2016 I always love discovering a wine that despite its youth is able to be enjoyed right now, not after 20 years of ageing in my cellar. The creations of Christophe PerrotMinot represent just that. Here we have a blend of several vineyard parcels that offer a vibrant and juicy dark cherry, raspberry and strawberry alongside a subtle minerality and savouriness. £140 from Hedonism

Your Lockdown Guide to Comforting Reds FAIVELEY CORTON CLOS DES CORTONS FAIVELEY GRAND CRU 2012 Now at seven generations, Domaine Faiveley has been a family estate for nearly 200 years and gained a solid reputation for producing truly stunning Burgundy from Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune and Côte Chalonnaise – totalling over 120 hectares. The Clos des Cortons Faiveley is a stunning Grand Cru example, produced from vines planted as long ago as 1936. Each year typically sees just 16,000 bottles, which considering its global appeal isn’t that many.

Smooth, enticing and powerful with black cherry and an abundance of white pepper spice. £100 from Grand Vin Wine Merchants UK

WORDS:

Aidy Smith

As we (hopefully) are beginning to enter the final stages of this lockdown, many of us will be nearing our limits. There was a time where we visited restaurants or wine bars for our weekly fix, but our attention is now focused on enhancing what we do in the home. In this issue’s drinks guide, I’ve put together a selection of some of my favourite luxury reds from Europe and the USA for those cool evening nights. Also, don’t forget that you don’t have to down the whole bottle in one go. If you’re getting your hands on some pretty nice wines, seriously consider investing in a Coravin which will allow you to have a glass of each over a very long period of time. It’s nice to switch things up and I truly believe a few glasses of something different will allow you to appreciate the wine a lot more than six of the same. Right, let’s get to it!

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CULTURE — wines

LOKOYA HOWELL MOUNTAIN 2009

NICOLAS-JAY, BISHOP CREEK PINOT NOIR 2017 What happens when Burgundian tradition makes its way into Oregon winemaking? This. Bishop Creek is home to some of the older vines in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, making these wines rarer and more soughtafter. Perched on the hillsides of the Yamhill-Carlton appellation, these vines get the perfect amount of sunshine. Dark berries, cola and smoky mineral elements hit you on the nose with black raspberry, violet and Moroccan spices on the palate.

The finish? A burst of fragrant floral notes with a smoky glaze. £104 from Berry Bros & Rudd

Lokoya is one of the key reasons I fell in love with Napa after visiting the winery upon the rolling hills of Spring Mountain.

The winery itself produces magnificent Cab Sauv from Mount Veeder, Spring Mountain, Diamond Mountain and Howell Mountain. Today we focus on the latter.

Dark cherry, blackcurrant, demerara sugar and black liquorice evolve into blackberry and stewed raspberry.

The robust tannins within this beauty pave way to a long dark chocolate and tobacco finish, held together with a beautiful texture and mouthfeel. £305 from Oeno

CASTIGLION DEL BOSCO MILLECENTO RISERVA 2012 Castiglion del Bosco is one of the leading Montalcino estates that has undergone a lot of tender love and care since it was purchased by Massimo Ferragamo in 2003. The grapes that make their way into this top-tier wine come from a fairly small 8.5hectare plot, so they get a lot of attention.

It’s the tannins on this one that jump out giving it insane ageing potential, but the 2012 is ready to go! Super ripe and aromatic (think Mediterranean herbs) with leather, dried berries and dense chewy red fruits, plus a beautiful texture and mouthfeel. £115 from Vintriloquy

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JOSEPH PHELPS INSIGNIA 2006 In 1974 Joseph Phelps decided to create a unique wine each year, allowing only the finest of his grapes to end up in the bottle.

This 100-per-cent estate-grown beauty has become one of the most iconic wines in Napa for its ongoing consistency and longevity. Produced from some of Napa’s finest vineyards, the 2006 vintage is crafted from 95% Cab Sauv and a kiss (5%) of Petit Verdot. The result after 24 months in French Oak is a mysteriously dark beauty, full of intense black fruits, coffee, cracked cocoa and liquorice. Dense tannin intertwines with a stunning mouthfeel and a finish that never seems to end. £226 from Hedonism

CULTURE — wines

VÉRITE LE DÉSIR 2016

INGLENOOK RUBICON 2014

Vérite Le Désir is by far one of the greatest Cab Franc-dominant blends available – 50 micro-crus across four appellations are what make this wine so irresistible, alongside the five decades of experience of its creator, Pierre Seillan.

Each cru is independently harvested, fermented and aged in French oak to custom toast levels before being blended to create only 3,500 cases.

It’s a process which sees hundreds of unique components and blending options, but only the finest make it into the bottle. Crushed blackcurrant, stewed plums and rose petals mingle with warm vanilla bread pudding, fresh clove and star anise.

The texture and tannin are sublime with the perfect balance of acidity. One to get your hands on.

Vérite Le Désir 2016

The name Inglenook has become infamous for its association with Francis Ford Coppola, awardwinning director of The Godfather, amongst many other feature titles. With Rubicon, I can confirm his ability to direct movies matches his taste in wine. This stuff is delicious. Crafted on the estate since 1879, this elegant blend derives from the finest vineyard blocks giving it dynamic layers of complexity. This 2014 is pretty much Cab Sauv with a splash of Merlot (2%) and Petit Verdot (1%) allowing it to showcase black fruits such as dark berries, cherries and currants alongside a baked spice, great tannin and vanilla finish. Only 5,000 cases are produced each year. £199 from Oeno

OVERTURE OPUS ONE 2018 You’ve likely heard of Opus One, arguably one of the most famous wineries in North America, but Overture, the baby brother of its first label, is making quite the storm too.

Admittedly, I wouldn’t drink this now, I’d leave it for about six years minimum, but this is the kind of wine worth investing in as it will likely sell out and you’ll have quite the bounty on your hands.

Traditional Bordeaux in style, this wine witnesses a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Black cherry, redcurrant, violet and a silky vanilla tannin texture will evolve over time. £112 from Berry Bros & Rudd

BANFI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO POGGIO ALLE MURA RISERVA 2012 The Sangiovese grapes that grace this stunning wine are sourced from the first vineyard to have been created on this estate – a process which took over ten years to ensure optimum selection and quality of the vines Every detail was meticulous, which in the end is why this wine is so good. A rich nose of prune jam, cacao, coffee and spicy balsamic intertwine with an elegant yet powerful palate. The 2012 is at a beautiful place, but you could wait a long time with these gems, they could age forever. £122 from Hedonism

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CULTURE — wines

TENUTA DI TRINORO, IGT, 2010 When Andrea Franchetti discovered this site in the deep south of Tuscany, he knew the terroir was like nothing he’d seen before. As a Bordeaux man, terroir is everything and so removing acres of scrubs and deserted woodland he planted his vines, did his thing and naturally word spread.

9,700 vines are handpicked bunch by bunch with several passages through the vines to ensure optimum ripeness. The wine itself is created from 60% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Petit Verdot. The result?

Stunning juicy red fruits with tobacco, spice, savoury smoke and a kiss of minerality binding it all together. £137 from Corney & Barrow

MARQUÉS DE MURRIETA CASTILLO YGAY GRAN RESERVA ESPECIAL 2010 One of the most beautiful Rioja wines in existence as far as I’m concerned. Murrieta is one of the oldest and most respected wineries in the region, dating all the way back to 1852. The legendary Castillo Ygay sits atop the perch of its offering and does so for a reason. The Grand Reserva itself comes an old single vineyard named “La Plana”, which is about 485 metres high and to top it off, this wine is only made during exceptional vintages. A beautiful array of meadow flowers hits your nose with truffle, baking spice, bright red cherries and a delicate parfum lingering in anticipation.

Intense yet refined with a satin soft mouthfeel. £92 from Winebuyers

DE BURIS VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO DOC AMARONE RISERVA 2008 This vineyard is only 1.9 hectares. Known as Groletta, in the small municipality of Sant’Ambrogio, it is famed for producing the highest-quality wines within the Valpolicella Classico zone. The selected grapes are placed on bamboo racks (Arele) and left to dry for 110 days before being pressed and left to ferment for 30 days in oak vats. After two stages of malolactic fermentation (over two years) followed by ageing in Slavonian oak barrels for a period dependent on the seasonal phases of the moon, the juice is then aged five years in oak. Talk about quality care. Complex notes of dark fruit, spice, liquorice and dark chocolate with an incredibly long velvety finish. £277 from Hedonism

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CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION : 2012 One of the most famous wineries in Bordeaux, Château Haut-Brion came into new ownership in 1935 with Clarence Dillon. Prince Robert of Luxembourg is also the Chairman of the estate, which gives an idea of its quality and reputation.

The 2012 vintage is a steal, given the vintages either side of it were deemed to be ‘better’, but it holds up in the bottle nicely. Two-thirds Merlot, the wine has a blackberry backbone with helpings of freshly ground espresso, vanilla oak and a delicate violet.

Soft, rich and juicy with a stunning finish. £256 from Lay & Wheeler

CULTURE — wines

YOUR LOCKDOWN GUIDE TO COMFORTING REDS

AGED

MATRIX

E L

M

D

K A I J

YOUTHFUL

H

N B

F C

G

BOLD

Don’t be fooled into thinking that just because a wine has an older vintage, it will automatically taste ‘older’ than other wines of a younger age. In this matrix we take vintage out of the equation and focus purely on the taste.

See below how the wines in this weeks guide site based on their perceived ageing and taste characteristics.

ELEGANT

A— Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru 2012 B— Nuit St Georges Les Murgers des Cras Perrot Minot 2016 C — Nicolas-Jay, Bishop Creek Pinot Noir 2017 D — Lokoya Howell Mountain 2009 E — Joseph Phelps Insignia 2006

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F — Vérite Le Désir 2016 G — Overture Opus One 2018

H — Inglenook Rubicon 2014

I — Banfi Brunello di

Montalcino Poggio alle Mura Riserva 2012 J —- Castiglion del Bosco Millecento Riserva 2012 K — Tenuta di Trinoro, IGT, 2010

L — De Buris Valpolicella

Classico DOC Amarone Riserva 2008 M — Marqués de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2010 N — Château Haut-Brion : 2012

CULTURE â&#x20AC;&#x201D; travel

SONEVA FUSHI: Isolation in Paradise That pent-up wanderlust can scarcely be better channelled than by booking a future trip to the true pride of the Maldives Words:

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Aidy Smith

CULTURE — travel

Soneva Fushi was the Maldives’ first resort to recycle plastic on-site

As we all sit at home unable to go out bar a few minutes each day, getting away from it all seems but a distant dream.

Yet for me it’s always been a necessity.

When you run two companies and present a TV Series, work can take its toll – which is why I’ve long been a believer that when taking a holiday, one should go all out to allow oneself to truly escape the day-to-day, entering a world of complete serenity.

My latest dose of said serenity saw me traveling to a remote island in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Yes, the Maldives. This picturesque oasis is indeed what you’ve imagined from having seen all of the photos, in fact, it actually looks better in person. The subject of this particular story is none other than Soneva Fushi, a retreat that holds a reputation as being one of the most tranquil getaways on the planet.

If you were going to be marooned on a desert island, this is the one you’d want to wash ashore on.

It all starts with the moment a hand reaches out to help you off the boat that has brought you ashore. This hand belongs

to your Mr. or Ms. Friday who, for the foreseeable future, will be your personal guide, butler, guru and all-round saviour as you melt into paradise, one wave at a time. This is the first touch of many that make this place so truly special.

Inspired by nature’s magnitude, mystery, and enchanting beauty, Soneva Fushi is set on one of the largest islands in the Maldives – yet it’s anything but built-up. Cycling through flora and fauna of the plush tropical forests, you can’t help but think you’ve been transported back in time to a place where simplicity was everything, even in luxury. No phone, no laptop, no worries, just letting your mind peacefully wander through the jungle pathways, feeling the warm equator breeze against your skin.

Nothing like what we’re stuck with now.

As expected, the beach surrounding the island is stunning and as you venture out to the more remote stretches, they become even more turquoise, ever more blissful. You may even find yourself as I did, gently lifting your sunglasses every now and again to truly appreciate just how crystal clear the ocean really is.

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No phone, no laptop, no worries, just letting your mind peacefully wander through the jungle pathways, feeling the warm equator breeze against your skin

CULTURE — travel

The resort houses 62 private villas with their own stretch of pristine beach.

Designed to offer ultimate privacy and a pure connection with nature, each retreat features open-air bathrooms that extend into a waterfall-surrounded private garden. Rustic designs keep the ‘at one with nature’ feel, despite having everything you could need or want at your fingertips.

While the philosophy may read “no news, no shoes”, they can add another motto to their creed: reduce, reuse, recycle, as they were the first resort in the Maldives to recycle plastic on site. At the Eco Centro, they’ve created a machine that can remould plastic waste into artistic items where guests can make their own upcycled works.

Soneva already recycles 90 per cent of its waste and this new initiative is helping to reuse the remaining ten per cent as well.

For cinephiles there’s also something truly spectacular: Cinema Paradiso, the island’s old helicopter pad, now converted to a cushioned-lounger outdoor screening venue. While munching on popcorn, ice cream or cocktail it suddenly dawns on you that you’re watching a movie while in the middle of the ocean, quite the surreal realisation. These moments happen quite often, that whole ‘Wow, am I really here?!’ mentality.

After you’ve spent the night stargazing, your next day may take you to the Six Senses Spa, deep within the jungle. The treatments relieve the body

Honestly, there isn’t a better place in the world to do yoga than Soneva Fushi.

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and soul, with each one specialising across yoga, speciality massages, and expert nutritional advice. Each is designed specifically to target whatever is best for you, whether it be aging, cleansing, or that rejuvenation you’ve longed for. And honestly, there isn’t a better place in the world to do yoga than Soneva Fushi.

You can soothe your mind and soul in the sea itself by snorkelling, scubadiving, kayaking, surfing – the list of water experiences goes on. Or, if you really want to elevate your trip, hop on board Soneva In Aqua, a luxurious floating villa, following three charter routes all around the picturesque Baa Atoll.

Back at the resort, the dining options are as impressive as you’d expect so far.

From Out of the Blue, perched on the edge of the ocean to plant-based Shades of Green, there’s even a restaurant above the treetops, Fresh in the Garden. The crème de la crème sits within So Hands On, a five-person seafood journey with Kenji Gyoten, Japan’s youngest Michelin starred chef. But if you truly want to experience serenity, Sobah’s is located just 15-minutes away by speedboat on a completely uninhabited island. Then there’s the drinks. Naturally, I get excited by a wine program and wasn’t disappointed to find over 9,000 bottles on the island, 200 of which can be poured by the glass.

Ultimately, this is one of those places you build an emotional bond with and, now in a different kind of isolation, I look back at my time in this paradise with a mix of fondness and longing.

What I wouldn’t give to be back on those beaches right now… my second time visiting this elixir of life will certainly not be the last. Do yourself a favour and put Soneva Fushi on your bucket list for as soon as our current crisis is over. With all that money you’re saving in lockdown, you’ll owe it to yourself.

BACK â&#x20AC;&#x201D; in focus

IN FOCUS AN INSIGHT INTO ONE FASCINATING BRAND Edited By

SAM KESSLER

March LA.B

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BACK — in focus

MARCH LA.B While British rivalry with our friends across the Channel is legendary, in watchmaking at least we share some common ground. Both countries during our horological heydays were global leaders in the fine mechanics of timekeeping; both have fallen a long way since. We here in Britain have been clawing some of that respect back for a while, and now France too is entering a long-overdue watchmaking renaissance. At the head of their nouvelle horlogerie charge is March LA.B. The name comes from Los Angeles and Biarritz, two cities with very distinct yet different senses of style. It’s where each of the founders calls home – Alain Marhic on the Côte Basque and Jerome Mage in California. However the name speaks to more than transatlantic geography.

LA is one of the most modern cities on Earth, favouring cool, edgy design and intense energy.

Biarritz is inclined towards a more traditional, relaxed savoire faire, substance over style. It’s a duality that speaks not just of the founders themselves, but the duality at the heart of March LA.B watches.

The starting point for each March LA.B timepiece is a time and a place. For the AM1 that’s elegant sixties simplicity; for the AM89 it’s the tail end of the eighties and for the Belza it’s the surfing coast of Biarritz back in 1957. Each watch uses this snapshot as a starting point for its own unique take on vintage style, be that quintessential glamour or retro charm.

Yet there are plenty of watches that take inspiration from decades past right now. Too many, one might say; you can barely turn around without another new 60s throwback diver washing ashore. Which is precisely what makes March LA.B a breath of fresh, non-sea air.

Take the AM69 as an example. It would’ve been so easy to create a tool watch from that era; plenty have done so before. Instead, March LA.B created something unique. It’s oddly faceted case, lovely dial (especially in the Bordeaux) and an off-kilter, asymmetrical case all add up to a stylistically inventive ode to an era. It’s not about specifically imitating the past, but evoking the era in something decidedly new.

To balance style with substance, the LA-designed pieces are made in Besançon, heart of the modern French horological renaissance. Using Miyota movements for their balance of quality and accessibility, the watches are assembled in France in March LA.B’s own workshops.

The French connection doesn’t end at the case either, but with the artisanal leatherworkers of

It’s not about specifically imitating the past, but evoking the era in something decidedly new Morteau; once finished, each watch is paired with a variety of straps ranging from standard calfskin to Thai stingray or Argentinian lizard.

France still has a long way to go before it’s back on the watchmaking map; a handful of brands doesn’t quite make an industry. Yet with its unique sense of style and impressive, vintageinspired collection, there couldn’t be a better vanguard than March LA.B. march-lab.com

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impulse buy

Michel Herbelin Classique 24h Skeleton

Cool though they are, skeletonised watches tend to command pretty impressive prices. The technical experience needed to take away the excess material in a movement and create the striking architectural effect we all know and love is a tall order.

Michel Herbelin’s take on the technique though makes it more than just a tad more accessible; it’s downright affordable – and comes with a dash of French chic to boot.

The Classique 24H is an ode to the designs of the 60s, a balance of chic elegance and watchmaking prowess housed in a graceful 39mm case of vintage proportions. The watch gets its name from both that classical shape and from the fact that it shows a 24-hour display, using a mix of indexes for the first 12 hours and Arabic numerals for the latter.

Michel Herbelin’s take makes [skeletonisation] more than just a tad more accessible; it’s downright affordable

Combined with the skeletonised Sellita SW-200 SQ automatic movement underneath, it’s a stunning modern re-interpretation of the Classique model.

If the view from the front isn’t enough, the Classique 24H Skeleton is equipped with a transparent caseback to offer an unobstructed view of the movement’s reverse as well. Given the finish of the Swiss movement and the custom rotor, it’s a view worth taking a glance at.

Part stylish throwback, part contemporary allusion to one of the most extraordinary techniques in high watchmaking, the Michel Herbelin Classique 24H is that ineffable mix of past and present, luxury and value that’s come to define Michel Herbelin as a brand. It’s also a damn fine looking watch in its own right. michel-herbelin.com

THE SPECS

• 39mm stainless steel / yellow gold PVD case with 30m water resistance • Skeletonised Sellita SW-200 calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £1,570 (steel), £1,605 (yellow gold PVD), michel-herbelin.com

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THE SPECS

• 39mm stainless steel / black PVD case with 300m water resistance • In-house MBP1000 calibre automatic movement with 45-hour power reserve • €999 (steel), €1,199 (black pvd), limited to 1,948 pieces, en.yema.com

YEMA Superman French Air Force Limited Editions

The diving world undoubtedly best knows Yema from its incredibly popular Superman, yet as is the case for many a tool watch specialist, the French watchmaker – and the Superman – has risen to meet many a more extreme challenge than your average part-time diver.

Back in the 70s for example, Yema was the watch of choice for the French Air Force, specifically when it came to the Air Force Diver Rescuers team, a branch dedicated to helicopterborne rescue operations. It made the Superman a militaryissue icon. Now it’s a relationship Yema is rekindling for a new collectors’ limited edition.

The new Yema French Air Force pieces, based off the Superman Heritage, have been built in collaboration with

The new Yema French Air Force pieces have been built in collaboration with the modern French Air Force, designed to its exacting equipment specifications

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the modern French Air Force, designed to its exacting equipment specifications. That means these are some serious hardware.

The limited-edition duo certainly look the part. Available in either steel or black DLC, they have the clear, legible, tactical look of aviation watches with the diving specs and signature locking crown of the original Superman – the ultimate air to sea watch. Both are powered by Yema’s solid in-house manufacture movement, assembled in Morteau and boasting a 45-hour power reserve.

The new pieces are limited to 1,948 examples each, a none-too-subtle reference to Yema’s founding year, and are presented in a French Air Forcebranded travel case, along with an official pilots’ canvas strap and original heritage bracelet both. That’s a lot of watch for your money; we can see why the French Air Force likes them. en.yema.com