Oracle Time - Issue 63 - June 2020

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .63

Hitting the Right Note

VACHERON CONSTANTIN The Music Issue SUMMER STYLE & ROCK STAR WRIST CANDY

ISSUE 63

5.95

£

ORACLE TIME #63

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Alex Teuscher Photography Watch: Vacheron Constantin FiftySix vacheron-constantin.com

Can you remember the first song you ever knew all the lyrics to? I can, and it was one that was perhaps a little inappropriate: Louis Prima’s Just a Gigolo. Thankfully I had no idea what it meant, which is probably why my dad played it to me. But then again, he forced me to listen to Mickey Katz, so cruel and unusual was evidently his raison d’etre.

I’m far from the only one whose life has had a constant soundtrack behind it either; music is everywhere, all the time, in every form imaginable – even watchmaking. Our cover star this issue, Vacheron Constantin’s sepia-toned FiftySix isn’t even the only watch from the lauded maison to have an inspirational backing track. At least, not since the latest additions to its superlative Les Cabinotiers haute horology collection. Find out more about those virtuoso pieces on page 40.

That’s not the only link between watches and music either. We’ve spoken at length in the past about the blinged-out, gem-set monstrosities that rappers seem to favour and this time we’ve turned out ears to classic rock for a look at what the likes of Clapton, Lennon and The King himself favour. Spoiler: they had bloody great taste.

A good part of that taste – at least when it comes to the likes of Keith Richards and David Bowie – were helped along by stylist Jo Hambro. For better or worse, you have her to thank for Captain Jack Sparrow. Nick Carvell interviews the reclusive stylist on page 82.

Don’t worry though, it’s not all hair beads, over-the-top furs and ripped shirts in our style section; as summer is well and truly here (and we’re finally allowed out to some extent) we’ve picked out favourite warm weather essentials on page 91.

Solitude’s no excuse for sartorial laziness.

One summer event that’s not happening this year is, unfortunately for my own ticket deposit, Glastonbury. What would have been the 50th anniversary of the illustrious mess has been pushed back, but that hasn’t stopped Matt Charlton reminiscing about the long drops on page 62.

Of course, with live music in the rear window of societal norms, most of us are making do with our personal sound systems. By ‘making do’ I mean ‘putting up with’. Well, take inspiration from our look at the coolest audio equipment right now on page 49 and take the chance to upgrade your line-up with a shiny new front-man. Your ears will thank us. Your neighbours probably won’t.

As for our shoot this issue, we’ve decided to start taking watches at face value.

By that I of course mean severe close-ups, be that of a meteoric grain, skeletonised architecture or beautiful, lustrous colour. Feel free to let me know your favourite of the lot. I’m having a hard time deciding between two. Precisely which ones I refuse to say.

In the meantime stay safe, put on a record and enjoy this, our 63rd issue, while I try to extricate my Louis Prima earworm. ‘I’m just a gigolo, and everywhere I go…’

Enjoy this issue and, once again, stay safe.

Sam Kessler, Editor

KEEP IN TOUCH: instagram.com/otmagazine | @oracle_time | facebook.com/oracleoftime | oracleoftime.com

1

ORACLE TIME #63

CONTRIBUTORS What are you listening to right now?

Nick Carvell

A lifelong fan of double denim (even triple on occasion), Nick started his career as Social Media Editor of mrporter.com before working as Associate Style Editor at British GQ then Editor of The Jackal. He is now a freelance menswear editor, writing from lockdown at his kitchen table in South London.

“I don’t think I have one song on repeat in particular right now, but I am listening to the ChilledCow lo-fi hip-hop radio ‘Beats to Study To’ pretty much constantly. It’s the perfect workfrom-home soundtrack.

Nikolaus Hirsch

Nikolaus Hirsch is Vice President of HIRSCH The Bracelet and, through his passion for horology, has come to be known as a ‘Watch Stylist’.

To further express his passion for watches, he runs his own blog (dressofawatch.com) and hosts a watch show on Instagram. When not pondering the intricacies of fine watches, he enjoys good food and cooking. Follow him on Instagram @nikolaushirsch.

“Kanye West’s Use This Gospel. I’m not particularly religious, but this song just gives me the chills and motivates me every time I listen to it.”

Amira Arasteh

doesn’t eat to live; she lives to eat.

An avid foodie, she appreciates all good food, from marketstall traders to Michelin-starred restaurants. In the rare moments she’s not eating she’s covering fashion, beauty, tech and travel.

“Everything Kygo – perfect vibes for staying at home on my sunny rooftop”

Aidy Smith

is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers. He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped.

“Right now, On The Nature of Daylight

by Max Richter. Honestly, I love classical music and this particular one has been central to a number of feature films. It’s so deep, meaningful and opens you up to the world!”

WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE

EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk SUB EDITOR

Alex Briand alexbriand4@gmail.com

Matt Charlton

Matt Charlton is a travel and culture writer, comedy scriptwriter and presenter. He hosts the ‘Side One Track One’ podcast, and is hoping to leave the house at some point soon.

“Good Bad Times by Hinds. This Madrid quartet have chiseled the grungy edges off for their third album The Prettiest Curse and this 80s-influenced power pop ear worm (with some added Spanglish for good measure) will not vacate my brain.”

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent DIRECTORS

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4615

George Parker george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4616 ACCOUNT MANAGER

Amber Heyman-Hunter Amber@opulentmedia.o.uk OT MAGAZINE is published monthly

by Opulent Media 020 7871 4615

2

ORACLE TIME #63

CONTENTS

1

O T M A G A Z I N E / I S S U E 63

18 — AFICIONADO

40 — VACHERON CONSTANTIN

We reveal what’s on our radar and what should be on your shopping list this month

24 — NEWS

A round-up of the latest happenings in London, luxury living and, of course, the best in horology

34 — FACETIME

Watch collections of the rich and famous – this issue it’s John Legend

36 — THE ORACLE SPEAKS Demystifying the deceptively complex world of dress watches

Introducing this year’s Les Cabinotiers releases, inspired by music and partly in collaboration with Abbey Road Studios

“If you thought 19 complications was over the top then look away now; this 24-complication, reversible beast of a watch is pushing things even for Vacheron” Vacheron Constantin— p40

15

ORACLE TIME #63

CONTENTS

2

49 — HIGH-END AUDIO The best of the best in modern audiophilia

62 — HISTORY OF GLASTONBURY

The story behind the UK’s favourite festival 82

68 — DIALS SHOOT

A bold selection of models are ready for their close-up

82 — JO HAMBRO

An interview with the legendary Vogue and GQ stylist

91 — STYLE EDIT How to build this year’s summer wardrobe

99 — ROCK STARS

Musical legends’ timepieces – from Elvis to Slash 62

107 — GUITARS

99

Choose your instrument from our cherry-picked selection

CULTURE “Some parts of [my dishes] take several days to create...

My domestic appliances aren’t as sophisticated as those we have in the restaurant kitchen”

115

99 115 120

_________________________________

Music Food Drink

__________________________________ _____________________________

Jean-Philippe Blondet — p115

120

16

110 — REVIEWS

Models from Glashütte and Christopher Ward

131 — IN FOCUS

A closer look at three brands: Andersmann, Wessex Watches and William Wood

139 – MICROBRAND CORNER

What’s new in the world of the small-scale?

144 – MOVIE WATCH The Seiko from Devs under the spotlight

FRONT — aficionado

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

18

© Laurent Xavier Moulin www.laurentxaviermoulin.ch

FRONT — aficionado

THE FINAL FRONTIER

Nobody’s ever said that Explorer is better than the original Star Trek.

In the case of MB&F’s latest evolution of its space-faring collaboration with clockmaker L’Epée though, the Starfleet Explorer is better than ever. More compact than the 2014 original and accompanied by a trio of spacecraft, the revolving, timekeeping contraction is also available in blue, green and red, going further than any table clock has gone before.

Limited to 99 pieces in each colour, CHF 9,900 + VAT, mbandf.com

19

FRONT — aficionado

A TRIBUTE TO STIRLING MOSS

Maserati’s plans for its latest roadster may have been pushed back to September (hopefully, at least) but that hasn’t stopped the Italian marque showing off the prototype – and giving it a timely overhaul, too. To coincide with Sir Stirling Moss’s 1956 victory in the Monaco Grand Prix, Maserati unveiled an honorary wrap for the MC20 Prototype, taking typography and design hints from the late, great racer’s original Eldorado singleseater. Better yet, we’re more excited than ever to see the production model in action. maserati.com

KING OF THE GRILL

The sun is shining and, even if we can’t have anyone else round for a cook off, it’s still the perfect weather for a barbecue. The WiFi-equipped, pellet-fuelled Ironwood 885 smart grill from Traeger lets you set the temperature, smoke level and timers from your phone and can fit ten chickens in its massive, two-tiered maw. If your grilling game needs some refinement, the app will also suggest recipes to make the most of it. £1,599, traegergrills.com

20

FRONT — aficionado

THE VIEW FROM THE TOP

Property in Auckland is going through the roof, especially since NZ has all but beaten the current pandemic. Capitalising on the situation is The Pacifica, a splendid new luxury development the crown of which is this penthouse, currently on the market for NZD 40 million – round about £20m. Occupying the 53rd and 54th floors of the tower, the penthouse boasts 13,000 square feet of living space and 360-degree views of one of the most beautiful harbours in the world.

There’s a good reason it’s New Zealand’s most expensive property to date.

Find out more at nzsothebysrealty.com

SAY HELLO TO MY LITTLE FRIEND

The story of a cocaine-fuelled Cuban drug baron?

It’s not hard to see why Scarface appeals to hip-hop jeweller and watchmaker Jacob & Co. Yet unlike a college student with a poster in their dorm, the haute horologist has stuck the landing with an insane new watch, the rose gold or black DLC-clad Scarface Opera. Central to the watch is a 120-note music box that, at the press of a button, plays Bolivia, the film’s iconic song, while the entire dial rotates 120 degrees, somehow keeping the time display the right way up. Tony Montana (pictured dial-side) would be proud.

Limited to 88 pieces, $330,000 in Black DLC, $360,000 in 18K Rose Gold, jacobandco.com

TIME + TEA

The Brasieur is arguably the most effective alarm clock out there, waking you up with the smell of fresh coffee.

But if a caffeine kick isn’t for you (I for one have been consuming far, far too much recently), Joy Resolve’s latest bedside companion is the tea-brewing Immersion Edition. Rather than the drip-style brewing of the original coffee version, this time the Brasieur has a brew chamber to create that perfect cup of morning Britishness. £345, joyresolve.com

21

FRONT — aficionado

FOR QUEEN AND CROSS-COUNTRY

We’re used to seeing an official Bond car each film (thank you Aston Martin) but this is the first time there’s been a 007 bike – and it’s a beauty. Based on the Triumph Bonneville Scrambler 1200 XE and its phenomenal dual-purpose performance, the Bond Edition has been given a stealthy black overhaul with plenty of nods to the world’s least secret agent.

Only 250 are being released worldwide, so you’ll need the resources of MI6 to actually get hold of one.

From £18,500, triumphmotorcycles.co.uk

FULL METAL JACKET

In these troubling times, copper might well have more uses than just keeping Netflix on. The clothing alchemists at Vollebak have highlighted the metal’s virus-killing qualities with their latest cutting-edge jacket, made using 11 kilometres of the stuff. The thinking is that this type of clothing will help stop the spread of Covid 19 and the Full Metal Jacket is just the first phase in the brand’s personal fight against the disease. Here’s hoping. £895, vollebak.com

22

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS

GET A LEXUS TATTOO Not on your own skin mind you, but that of your car. Following the launch of its one-of-a-kind UX Compact SUV back in March, the marque is asking for people to design their own inked-up ride for a competition, the winner of which will be revealed on 22 June. Just download the template found on blog.lexus.co.uk and fill it in. The only stipulations are that it has to be in a tattoo style and that every angle has to be filled in.

Interested in seeing your own tat come to life on four wheels? Submit your entry by 5pm on 9 June and send to tattoocar@ld.lexus.co.uk.

TRY GRAND SEIKO VIRTUALLY Grand Seiko’s latest collaboration is its stunning green-dialled Toge special edition in partnership with British retail group Watches of Switzerland. That’s all well and good. Better yet though, they’re using augmented reality to allow you to try it on yourself. It’s not quite the same as the real thing, but it’s a damn sight better than nothing and could well make for an interesting new way to shop for watches digitally. That’s a great idea at the best of times; right now, it’s vital.

Just head to the Instagram pages for @ grandseikouk or @watchesofswitzerland_ official and try it out for yourself.

It could make for an interesting new way to shop for watches. That’s a great idea at the best of times; right now, it’s vital 24

FRONT — world news

SALON PRIVÉ RETURNS Most events are tentatively looking at their schedules, pencilling in dates and holding their breath; not Salon Privé. The Blenheim Palace-based car show has set a date – 23-26 September – and by god they’re sticking to it. The 15th edition is set to have the same calibre of car as always, with some coveted classics, souped-up hypercars and antique roadsters aplenty. Safety will obviously be a priority and, with every car show of the year having been cancelled, the likes of Aston Martin, Bugatti and Ferrari will be taking the opportunity to show off what they have in stall for the year ahead.

Tickets start at £295. Book online at salonpriveconcours.com

101 CARTIER CLOCKS On 1 July, Christie’s will be taking over Geneva’s Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues for one of the most impressive horological sales of the year.

Representing 80 years of clockmaking expertise, this private collection of 101 Cartier clocks is a lifetime collection of Parisian chic and Swiss mechanics – and it’s valued as such. The collection as a whole has a pre-sale estimate of CHF 3.9-5.7 million, so expect some serious bidding competition. christies.com

BUY A BREITLING FOR THE NHS Of the entire catalogue of new pieces launched at Breitling’s 2020 digital summit, the standout was without a doubt the rainbow-index Superocean limited edition. It went far, far too quickly. Fortunately there’s a new and, if you like blue, improved version, limited to 1,000 pieces. So far so good.

What’s even better though is that these editions are going to arguably the best cause of all: the NHS.

Part of the proceeds of each watch, totalling CHF 500,000, will be donated to NHS Charities Together. If you’re feeling even more patriotic, buy the watch online from Breitling and they’ll donate a further £1,000 to the cause.

That’s over a quarter of the £3,790 (on a strap; £200 more for the bracelet) watch. That’s worth buying, even if it weren’t the coolest Breitling of the past few years. breitling.com

These editions are going to arguably the best cause of all: the NHS

MCLAREN ENLISTS NEW DESIGNERS Child labour might be looked down on most places, but McLaren has enlisted the younger generation’s innate creative spark to design the hypercars of the future.

Working with the institution that is Blue Peter, the Woking-based marque is asking viewers of the kids’ show to create their own supercars and send them in. The winner will have their design unveiled as a to-scale 3D model. They might not be old enough to drive for another half a decade at least, but hey, get ‘em while they’re young. Whether this turns into the next insane limited edition McLaren remains to be seen, but it surely couldn’t look any crazier than their usual fare… could it? mclaren.com

25

FRONT — world news

LOTS TO WATCH • F.P. Journe Resonance.

From the watchmaker’s original ‘Souscription’ Series, this watch was offered only to collectors that had already purchased the first, foundation watch F.P. Journe ever released. It’s a treasure of independent watchmaking.

PHILLIPS GENEVA WATCH AUCTION XI If you prefer your timekeepers wearable, this is the upcoming Geneva auction for you.

As ever, Phillips has cultivated one hell of a line-up for its blow-out horological sale, coming up on 27-28 June. The sale will not only include rare and valuable pieces, but some from the collection of the watch world giant that is Jean-Claude Biver. There are more than a few grail pieces here, enough that you’d be forgiven for wanting to bid on everything. There are some though that really stand out.

• Harry Winston Opus III. These pieces get true horological aficionados giddy with excitement and No. 3 is no exception, with its unique way of reading the time and inimitable shape. This particular example also happens to be No.1 of 25.

• Patek Philippe 1579 chronograph.

Before Bucherer and Harrods started branding everything in sight, Swiss retailer Gübelin was already there. This perfectly preserved Patek chrono is only the fifth of these retailer-signed pieces to come to market; expect some serious bidding.

There are more than a few grail pieces here, enough that you’d be forgiven for wanting to bid on everything

As of writing, the estimates for the auction have yet to be released; for more information and the full list of lots, visit phillips.com

26

FRONT — world news

THE SUMMER SOLSTICE LIVE REDBREAST’S DREAM CASK It was World Whiskey Day last month and, to coincide, plenty a distiller launched a new blend or two. The one to stand out though is without a doubt the paragon of Irish whiskey that is Redbreast and the third in its series of Dream Cask releases, the Ruby Port Edition. Made using whiskies aged in bourbon, sherry and port barrels, blended then placed back into port to finish, it’s everything a good Irish whiskey should be. The only problem is availability; the last Dream Cask sold out in 14 minutes. This time Redbreast is offering a ballot to give everyone an equal chance and, by now, you’ll probably know if you’re amongst the lucky few.

Paganistic dancing for the longest day of the year may be out of the question, but that isn’t getting in the way of the mythical ancient wonder of the world that is Stonehenge. On June 21, the cultural site will be live-streaming the entire summer solstice courtesy of English Heritage. Just tune into its Instagram page and get your fill of the glory of midsummer. english-heritage.org.uk

The only problem is availability; the last Dream Cask sold out in 14 minutes If not, here’s what you’re missing: spices, dark chocolate, cinnamon, ripe plums, exotic fruits, raisins, sultanas and berries, all in a whisky bottled at 51.1%.

More port-laced soft fruit than oaky vanilla, it’s punchy, sweet and delicious. redbreastwhiskey.com

G U E S S THE WATCH

Last issue was harder than previous entries into out watch-sussing sideline but if you know what to look for – the curve of the bezel, the chunky case – you’ll have no doubt figured out it was the baby brother of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Aquanaut. Well done if that’s the case. If not, just pretend, we won’t know.

Ahead of our nautical issue though, we’re going for a serious diver; in fact, it’s what some might call the first modern diver. That’s all we’re giving you, though it might already be too much…

What is the watch?

Check back next issue for the answer.

27

what is the

WATCH

?

FRONT — introducing

NEWS

INTRO DUCING

Even with Baselworld very much cancelled, the constant influx of new pieces has continued unabated to set up the horological year ahead. That means that once again we have plenty of releases to fawn over.

IN DETAIL • 41.5mm titanium case with 300m water resistance

SELLITA SW200-1 Elaboré automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £995, farer.com

•

28

FARER

Aqua Compressor Titanium

Adding another string to its ever-more-crowded bow, Farer have given its perfectly realised, Compressor-cased diver a titanium overhaul, complementing the lightweight metal with a trio of new colourways.

The blacked-out, high-contrast Endeavour lives up to its name with a more militaristic feel; the Helca’s blue on the other hand is more what we’ve come to expect from diving watches, especially as far as Farer’s concerned.

Our favourite of the bunch however is the orangeaccented Leven and, if it’s good looks weren’t enough, rest assured in the knowledge that a portion of the proceeds will go to the Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust. Good cause, great watch.

FRONT — introducing

ZENITH

Chronomaster Revival Manufacture Edition

Another pictureperfect revival piece from Zenith but this time with a twist.

While it has the same milimetre-perfect case as the original 1969 El Primero, this version uses a prototype manyblued dial created by watchmaker Charles Vermont, but that was never actually put into production. The result is part classic re-issue, part shiny new watch, all incredibly cool.

IN DETAIL

38mm stainless steel case water resistant to 50m • El Primero 400 calibre automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve • £7,300, zenith-watches.com •

IN DETAIL • 40.5mm stainless steel case water resistant to 120m • SXH5 Calibre automatic movement with 56-hour power reserve • CHF 18,000, limited to 99 pieces, czapek.com

CZAPEK & CIE

Antarctique Terre Adelie

The auteurs at Czapek & Cie are taking on the big guns of the watchmaking world with their own take on the Genta-esque sports-luxe timepiece with the Antarctique. With a fantastic integrated bracelet and striking stainless steel case paired with a tone-on-tone lamé dial, it’s a good deal more restrained than we’re used to seeing from the watchmaker, yet just as thoughtful.

29

FRONT — introducing

SEIKO

Prospex Street Series Urban Safari

Seiko’s recent Prospex additions have all been almost painfully cool, not to mention killing it among the more-street watch collectors out there. The latest grey and khaki Safari-series hammers that home with not only a wonderfully wearable take on the famous Tuna (one for our wishlist) but a full-sized take on Arnie’s massive Predator watch.

IN DETAIL

•

43mm / 47.8mm stainless steel case water resistant to 200m • 4R36 calibre automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve / H851 Digital Analogue movement • €580 / €530, seikowatches.com

PARMIGIANI

Fleurier Toric Tourbillon Slate

IN DETAIL

42.8mm red gold case water resistant to 30m PF517 calibre automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve • CHF 130,000, limited to 25 pieces, parmigiani.com • •

30

Using the classic, golden ratio-influenced shape of Parmigiani’s original Toric and a shiny new haute horology movement, the handsome guilloche dial is reminiscent of the Fibonacci pattern of a pine cone.

Overleaf it’s just as pretty, with a particularly handsome microrotor powering the whole flying tourbillonequipped contraption. This is independent watchmaking of the highest order.

FRONT — introducing

PANERAI

Submersible EcoPangaea Tourbillon GMT Mike Horn Edition

It might be a bit of a mouthful, but then this is also a lot of watch. Built to withstand Mike Horn’s expeditions, this is Panerai going all-out. The 50mm beast is built from EcoPangea, a material taken from the drive-shaft of the explorer’s sailing ship, and has a dial worthy of Richemont stablemate Roger Dubuis. It’s also the first Submersible to include a tourbillon – real kitchen sink stuff.

IN DETAIL

50mm EcoPangaea case with 300m water resistance • P.2005/T calibre manualwind movement with 6-day power reserve • $190,000, limited to five pieces, panerai.com •

IN DETAIL •

EUR 2,050, delma.ch

DELMA

Cayman Worldtimer

Based on its 70s-inspired Cayman collection, Delma’s latest expands its tool watch offering with a world time watch that’s as cool as it is accessible. Despite the additional complication, the new Cayman has retained all its underwater functionality and thrown in a couple of cool new colourways besides, particularly the silver-dialled black and blue bezelled edition. It’s a lot of watch for the money.

31

FRONT — introducing

IN DETAIL

40mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • Sellita SW-200 1 calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £795, michel-herbelin.com •

MICHEL HERBELIN Inspiration Mocha

With its elegant case inspired by the golden fifties, Michel Herbelin’s Inspiration collection was ripe for an aesthetic revamp, something the watchmaking studio has done with a welcome splash of mocha brown.

The subtle patina of the sunray brushed dial lends itself to the colour nicely, more along the vintage lines than your usual, more modern retro. The result is an impeccably handsome timepiece and a welcome addition to the collection, underpinned by a solid movement courtesy of a Sellita SW 200-1.

Perhaps the perfect watch for a dedicated sartorialist on a horological budget, the design’s timeless appeal is hammered home by a truly fantastic price point.

32

FRONT — facetime

NO.

63

FA C E T I M E The watch collections of the rich and famous revealed

Legend by name, legend by nature, the singer, songwriter and judge on The Voice (just don’t judge him for it) is a musical icon and, like many an awardwinning artist with a voice like poured velvet, he has an equally famous face strapped to his wrist most of the time. But what goes with Legend’s signature sleek, block-colour style?

Everyone with a collection worth discussing has a Rolex or two and in Legend’s (oyster) case, the first is a flashy take on the Daytona in platinum with more diamonds than a hip-hop awards show and ice-blue subdials. That’s matched by the far more classical yet often glossed-over Cellini Dual Time in rose gold.

Most recently, he was seen wearing the latest Bond watch, the Omega Seamaster 300m 007 Edition (one that we took a look at ourselves last issue). It suits him to a tee, though as it was for a magazine shoot Legend probably doesn’t own it himself. Still. We fell in love with it – there’s a good chance he did, too.

Whether that happens or not though, Legend’s first horological love is undoubtedly Audemars Piguet.

The Royal Oak is his casual watch of choice, his off-duty icon of Gerald Genta goodness.

The specific watches riff on the theme of the classic Royal Oak rather than the chunkier Offshore, which would be a bit to over-the-top and macho for the singer (or anyone) in our opinion. Instead it’s pieces like the classic 41mm black-dialled Royal Oak or the white-dialled chronograph version he was seen wearing in the front row of a Lakers game last year. Both are, of course, in solid gold, bracelets and all. How else would they go with his awards?

The watchmaker has returned the love and Legend has actually collaborated with AP a little, specifically in the John Legend Millenary Pianoforte limited edition with a piano key dial. Subtle. But it doesn’t look like he’ll be shifting away from the Royal Oak any time soon. Unfortunately we won’t know for a while; he won’t be going on tour any time soon, either.

John Legend The crooner

Legend married model Chrissy Teigen in Como, Italy, in 2013

34

FRONT — ask the oracle

Words: Nikolaus Hirsch

THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained

[Watch Stylist Nikolaus Hirsch on the Dos and Don’ts of Dress Watches]

The dress watch: a must in any man’s collection and a very particular type of watch. They’re usually acquired for a single purpose, that being to pair them with suits, tuxedos or any other formal clothing. For most people, that’s about it.

Generally, there’s not much to a dress watch, refined simplicity and precious metals like gold being the hallmarks. You can also find some pieces by brands made out of steel to keep things accessible, but the look’s much the same.

36

Other typical characteristics of dress watches are that they are generally smaller in size (34mm-42mm) and usually very thin. Elegance is key, which is why most of them only tell the time and are reduced to an hour and a minute hand. It’s supposed to be super simple and barely noticed.

In today’s world though, collecting has evolved from its classic beginnings and the etiquette of when to wear which type of watch has been loosened like a black tie dress code. Nevertheless, there still are a couple of dos and don’ts that you should bear in mind when considering wearing a dress watch.

The first and most hard-and-fast rule is not to get these things wet. In general, they’re water resistant to 3 bar (30m) which in layman’s terms means a splash and they’re doomed. In that way, dress watches really haven’t changed.

What to wear them with on the other hand, has.

With rappers sporting Patek Philippes in joggers and sweatshirts, it seems like anything goes. In a sense that’s correct; it doesn’t always need to go with a suit.

You can easily pair them to jeans and a shirt, for example. Just make sure to avoid anything too casual.

No matter how much swagger you think you have, you don’t want your watch eclipsing your entire outfit and ripped jeans and a faded t-shirt will instantly have people thinking you got your limited edition from a Chinese market stall.

The same principal applies to the type of strap or what I like to call the “dress of the watch”. Dress watches are elegant so don’t make the mistake of wearing them on rubber straps or metal bracelets.

The right way is pairing them with black, brown, blue or in rare occasions white leather straps. They should match the thickness of the case and ideally be made from crocodile or alligator leather, the glossier end of the spectrum.

In the event of really wearing a dress watch to a formal event there are some things to keep in mind.

You should match the colour of the dial to time of day – dark colours for evening, lighter for during the day.

Also make sure the watch is appropriately sized to fit your wrist and sits neatly under the cuff of your shirt.

Nothing looks worse than your watch constantly catching on your cufflinks. Finally, be wary of the strap colour. Like your shoes and belt, the strap leather should match.

That all said, the biggest don’t of them all is to avoid wearing them. For me, a dress watch isn’t just for a special occasion; no watch is. They’re supposed to be worn and not to be kept in a box hidden away in the rare case you might deign to wear it. A dress watch can be your daily wear piece as much as any other; just make sure you wear it right.

Follow Nikolaus on Instagram at @nikolaushirsch

FRONT — ask the oracle

1

They’re supposed to be worn and not to be kept in a box hidden away in the rare case you might deign to wear it

[CARL SUCHY & SÖHNE WALTZ NO. 1, EURO 8,495]

With its textured dial and revolving second counter at 6 o’clock, this piece from Austrian watchmaker Carl Suchy & Söhne is elegance with a twist. The simple black on steel look is enhanced by the mix of horizontal and vertical guilloche, creating a restrained look where detail is king. carlsuchy.com

37

FRONT — ask the oracle

The finishing is impeccable, a testament to the watchmaker’s signature attention to detail

[HERMÈS SLIM D’HERMÈS]

Flexing its design chops in the often constrained sphere of dress watches, Hermès has created one of the finest steel dress watches around. With some cool, modern typography and a multi-layered dial it’s one on our wishlist here at Oracle Time. Very high up, at that. hermes.com

2

[GRAND SEIKO 60TH ANNIVERSARY RE-CREATION, £23,500, ]

It’s been 60 years since Grand Seiko first launched in Japan and this anniversary piece is a flawless recreation of the model that made it famous. As classic as it gets, the finishing is impeccable, a testament to the watchmaker’s signature attention to detail and svelte, elegant case size. grand-seiko.com

3

38

FRONT — vacheron constantin

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

PITCH PERFECT IN ‘LA MUSIQUE DE TEMPS’, VACHERON CONSTANTIN TAKES A MUSICAL APPROACH TO ITS ANNUAL LES CABINOTIERS COLLECTION 40

FRONT — vacheron constantin

41

FRONT — vacheron constantin

You can guess the kind of extraordinary level these unique pieces are built to. The number of superlatives buzzing around them is downright exhausting.

The Les Cabinotiers collection sees a new model released annually, to demonstrate the watchmaker’s finest work

According to Plato, “Music gives a soul to the universe, wings to the mind, flight to the imagination and life to everything.” It’s hard to dispute that, except that he’s missing one: inspiration to watchmakers. Still, don’t hold it against him; even Vacheron, the oldest continually-running manufacture in the world, wasn’t around in ancient Greece.

There are of course a heavy handful of watchmakers that like to be associated with music, whether from tie-ins with the Beatles á la Raymond Weil or Grand Sonneries built to play select songs. For Vacheron though, it’s beginning to dictate what the watchmaker does in a very real way.

42

First, there’s the Fiftysix which, as well as being the most affordable Vacheron to date (and a lovely one to boot; especially the sepia-toned number gracing our cover) it’s the watch of choice of two of the watchmaker’s ambassadors: self-proclaimed “musical craftsman” Benjamin Clementine and often behatted singer-songwriter James Bay – both wear variations of the Fiftysix Complete Calendar.

Then there’s the legendary Abbey Road Studios, recording home of Pink Floyd, Radiohead, Kanye West and too many more to mention. Yet until recently I wasn’t too sure what the partnership was about, whether it was just a nice coming together of famous names or something deeper. With the launch of Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers 2020 collection, we have the answer.

The annual Les Cabinotiers collection is essentially Vacheron Constantin’s haute horology collection. Given that the latest Overseas Perpetual Calendar Skeleton didn’t make the cut there, you can guess the kind of extraordinary level these unique pieces are built to.

The number of superlatives buzzing around them is downright exhausting.

This year there are three pieces in the collection, dubbed ‘La Musique de Temps’ (the music of time) the first of which is the aptly named Ode to Music.

The double-sided tour de force contains a grand total of 19 complications, which includes solar, sidereal and civil time and a full perpetual calendar. It’s a lot to take in and a lot of relatively pointless yet rarefied complications, all within an incredibly thin 8mm calibre.

That’s all the more impressive when you realise it even contains a minute repeater too – which is actually where Abbey Road Studios comes in. Vacheron and the producers at the studio recorded the chime of the Ode to Music for two purposes. On a practical level it means that Vacheron can ensure consistency between chimes, adjusting until the wavelengths match. The second is to add another unique aspect to the Ode to Music: it’s delivered with a lovely sound print of the chime. You don’t just need to listen to it; you can see it, too.

It’s a trick they have repeated in the other chiming piece of ‘La Musique de Temps’, Tempo, which has been given a unique sound print of its own. If you thought 19 complications was over the top then look away now; this 24-complication, reversible beast of a watch is pushing things even for Vacheron.

© Alex Teuscher Photography

FRONT — graxxxx

43

FRONT — vacheron constantin

44

FRONT — vacheron constantin

The Singing Birds timepiece comes with a hand-painted image of one of four birds: hummingbird, bluejay, blue tit or robin

The first side of the watch has the complications you’d actually use on a daily basis. Going clockwise from 5 o’clock, you have dual-layer subdials for the month and leap year indicator; day and date; running minute and hours, and finally, chronograph minutes at 2 o’clock, shown across 30-minute and 60-minute counters. The dead centre of the watch is reserved for the twin split-seconds chronograph hands, turning what could be a mess into a genuinely readable, impeccably laid-out array of indicators.

Where the caseback would be on most watches are all the complications that are there more for horological fascination than daily use. The central hands indicate true solar time, better known in watchmaking circles as Equation of Time, which takes into account seasonal variations in day length. This is complemented either side by sunrise and sunset times at 3 o’clock and the lengths of both day and night at 9 o’clock. With all that, the retrograde moon phase at 6 o’clock seems almost prosaic in comparison and the 12 o’clock tourbillon downright missable.

Thanks to the symmetrical case shape, you can wear Tempo either way up which, with Vacheron’s quick strap system, is pretty easy to switch between.

Either way it’s an incredibly impressive watch, all the more so that somewhere between all those complications, Vacheron has sandwiched a minute repeater, useable via the 9 o’clock (when look at the chronograph side) pusher.

Right. Take a breath. That was a lot of complicated watch to process and a hell of a lot of complications for just two timepieces. Fortunately for my own sanity,

45

The champlevé enamelling quite rightly takes up nearly the entire dial, leaving a slice out for a satellite timekeeping display the last chunk of ‘La Musique de Temps’ takes a more artistic approach to the theme.

The Singing Birds live up to their name, with four exquisitely-painted songbirds – a hummingbird, a bluejay, a blue tit and a robin – one for each piece.

The champlevé enamelling quite rightly takes up nearly the entire dial, leaving a slice out for a satellite timekeeping display (Vacheron call it ‘dragging’) more like what we’d expect from Urwerk. Just use the hour to read off the minute and you have the time.

None of these four pieces house striking complications – an odd omission given that they’re song birds – but at least I don’t need to try and puzzle out how they fit a gong, hammer and acoustic room in these delicate, 40mm pieces. That does mean though that you don’t get a sound print from Abbey Road with these four which isn’t too big a deal. They’re works of art in their own right – something that could be said of Les Cabinotiers and, specifically, ‘La Musique de Temps’ as a whole. To paraphrase the Bard, if music be the food of horology, play on. vacheron-constantin.com

EDITED: SAM KESSLER

AUDIO We’re all spending a lot more time listening to our home soundsystems and, while that’s generally because we can’t do much else, there’s no excuse for making-do with a lacklustre array of equipment. You might not think you need an upgrade, but that’s just aural Stockholm syndrome. Your ears will thank you for the sweet release of something decent to listen to. After all, what’s the point of having great musical taste if it sounds like you’re streaming from YouTube on dial-up?

We’re not saying you need to throw out everything you own and start again; we don’t even know what you’re listening to outside of a few wild assumptions. Instead, revamp your set-up with a new key piece or two and revel in the new era of clarity you’ve ushered in. You – and anyone that you foist your musical library upon – will thank us.

FRONT — audio

+Audio’s The+Record Player in a special-edition Maple

49

FRONT — audio

50

FRONT — audio

NAD MASTERS M50.2 DIGITAL MUSIC PLAYER

Say what you want about the benefits of vinyl, sometimes you just don’t have the space for an analogue system. If that’s the case then look no further than this full digital solution courtesy of NAD. Not only can it store your entire CD collection and access your full library of music, but it’s BluOS-enabled. A cross-device way of streaming highresolution music, BluOS allows the NAD Masters M50.2 to work seamlessly with the rest of your system and wider smart home system. Just link it to your phone and you can control the M50.2 and other enabled devices with worrying ease.

Easy access, high fidelity – if you’re looking for digital music without compromise, here it is. The fact that it looks fantastic almost falls by the wayside. £3,795, nadelectronics.com

Easy access, high fidelity – if you’re looking for digital music without compromise, here it is

51

FRONT — audio

KAD K7 WIRELESS LOUDSPEAKERS

This slim pair of speakers may look odd without the tangle of wires we’ve come to expect emerging from their backsides, but that’s because KAD’s latest is hammering home that wireless streaming is the new norm, even in high-end audio.

Taking its cues from the live PA systems used by artists in concert, the K7 loudspeakers put the emphasis on a realistic soundstage, aurally placing instruments and artists where they should be. Complemented by 24bit / 96kHz high-resolution wireless streaming and you have a pair of speakers that are both incredibly easy to set up and fit for a concert.

Given the current crisis, the KAD K7s might be the closest thing you’ll get to one any time soon.

GBP 15,950 (pair), kadaudio.com

52

FRONT — audio

BOENICKE W11

The W11’s apparent simplicity belies its incredible versatility

If you’re going to have speakers taking up a big part of your interior space you may as well make sure they’re not only elegant enough to fit in with your (we’re sure) incredibly-designed apartment, but also sound utterly exceptional, too. Boenick’s W11 loudspeakers fit the bill nicely on both fronts.

Created by Sven Boenicke, one of the finest audio artisans working today, the W11’s apparent simplicity belies its incredible versatility, which is one of its greatest assets. Along with a bass adjustable by increments of 2.5 dB, the mid-range driver uses paper for a more natural, uncoloured and uncluttered sound.

The W in the name stands for wood, so it’s no surprise that the cabinetry is as solid as it comes. Available in ash, walnut or cherry wood, it’s the final flourish to the W11’s stunning aesthetic minimalism. Great sound, great looks and great versatility: the W11 has it all.

From £10,988, boenicke-audio.ch

53

FRONT — audio

54

FRONT — audio

+AUDIO THE+RECORD PLAYER

‘All in One’ might be a bit of a dirty phrase among audiophiles, but even vinyl purists would struggle not to fall in love with The+Record Player. Forget a sprawling, piecemeal system spreading over half your living room; this is simple, single-device listening – be that from vinyl or streaming – at its finest.

Combining a solid Pro-Ject turntable (already a fantastic start) with a built-in, high-performance stereo system comprised of a two-way bi-amplified speaker system, feedback-cancelling architecture and a pair each of 3.5’’ woofers and 1’’ tweeter, it has all the highs, lows and rumbles of a system many times its size.

In size and layout The+Record Player recalls the retro charm of 70s portable record players; in style though it’s more contemporary than the Turner, and far, far more tasteful. £1,167.63, plusaudio.com

This is simple, single-device listening – be that from vinyl or streaming – at its finest

55

FRONT — audio

56

FRONT — audio

The speakers all but disappear, creating a beautifully pure, precise sound that’s as close to the having the artist in the room as most modern speakers can hope to achieve

BAYZ AUDIO COUNTERPOINT 2.0 Loudspeakers haven’t changed all that much over the last couple of decades, conceptwise… which is why Bayz Audio’s incredible Counterpoint loudspeakers are so important. Rather than using a highly directional driver to force sound towards the listener, the unique tech behind Bayz’s proprietary speakers disperses the sound radially in every direction – just as a real instrument would do.

What that means to the listener is that the speakers all but disappear, creating a beautifully pure, precise sound that’s as close to the having the artist in the room as most modern speakers can hope to achieve. The first true, omnidirectional loudspeakers, it’s only fitting that the curving, carbonfibre cabinets look as space-age as their technology inside them. There’s nothing else out there quite like the Counterpoint 2.0.

Euro 144,000, bayz-audio.eu

57

FRONT — apero

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

THE APERIO HEADPHONE SYSTEM WARWICK ACOUSTICS’ NEW HEADPHONES PROVIDE A TRULY NO-COMPROMISE LISTENING EXPERIENCE

59

FRONT — apero

When it comes to headphones, we’ve come to accept that there will be some loss of clarity, resulting in a poorer quality of sound than we’d like. It’s the downside we’ve come to think of as part and parcel of convenience, whether that’s simple earbuds or full over-ear models. Fortunately, Warwick Acoustics doesn’t accept those downsides.

If you’ve not heard of UK-based Warwick Acoustics before, you may well have heard of their work through the SonomaTM Model One (or M1) Headphone System, one of the purest, audiophile reference headphones ever built. Now, it’s pushing the boundaries of detail retrieval even further with its latest creation, the APERIO. The APERIO is designed to do two things above all others: provide superlative listening no matter the input or conditions and to do so in comfort, even over long periods of time.

At the core of this new reference headphone system is the same electrostatic technology that powers Warwick Acoustic’s other headphone and in-car systems. The novel technology uses a transparent sheet of conductive material that is flanked by a pair of electrically conductive grids.

These grids then push and pull the film between them to turn electrical signals into sound.

It’s not a technology you see often, though the advantages are impressive. Electrostatic speakers tend to have lower distortion, greater frequency response and are extremely lightweight. They do have disadvantages, such as a lack of bass and high directionality, but in the APERIO, Warwick Acoustics has overcome this through its proprietary innovative technology.

Visually, the APERIO is stunning. The system isn’t overly stylised, eschewing the exotic wood cabinetry and over-the-top flair of many a high-end piece of equipment. Instead, its clean, thoughtful details and contemporary style make for a seriously impressive-looking piece of tech. But it’s still nothing compared to the sound – a sound that begins with the transducer.

The transducer is the most important part of the headphones. It’s what translates the electrical signal from the input into the movement of the electrostatic and finally to sound that can reach the ear. In the APERIO that’s the job of the new Balanced-Drive HPEL Transducer, a symmetricallydriven advancement on that used in the Sonoma Model One. As well as the innate advantages of electrostatic technology, the drivers’ patented cellular structure limits interference, making the APERIO system incredibly clear and stable.

As for comfort, the headphones themselves are built from a combination of lightweight injected magnesium and leather. Both the materials used and the shape of the earcups create a comfortable

seal, perfect for long listening sessions.

To complete the APERIO, the headphones themselves come with a dedicated headphone amplifier that acts as a central hub for the whole system, which doubles up as a full feature preamplifier. Housing a digital-to-analogue converter and a full suite of line outputs, elevating any record player or digital input to the superlative quality the headphones can achieve.

As lockdown continues, we’re likely not the only ones spending most hours in the day with headphones on working our way through our music collection. Rather than settle for substandard sound and user fatigue, try out what could quite possibly be the finest headphone system on the market today, the APERIO – at any price range.

Find out more at warwickacoustics.com

As well as the innate advantages of electrostatic technology, the drivers’ patented cellular structure limits interference 60

FRONT — apero

61

FRONT — glastonbury

62

FRONT — glastonbury

WORDS: MATT CHARLTON

A BRIEF HISTORY OF GLASTONBURY PANDEMICS AND FALLOW YEARS NOTWITHSTANDING, THE WORLD’S BEST FESTIVAL NOW DRAWS AROUND 200,000 PEOPLE ANNUALLY TO A FARM IN SOMERSET. HERE’S HOW IT BEGAN

63

FRONT — glastonbury

Doubled over under canvas after a dodgy hotdog, with Sir Paul McCartney belting out Helter Skelter two fields away, I was experiencing my first taste of Glastonbury in the same way many do – surrounded by amazing music, mud, and with a rather dodgy stomach, dreading the inevitable visit to the infamous long-drops.

2004 was a baptism of fire, or rather water.

It threw at me everything Glastonbury is known for: a baking-hot first day, a torrential second, and a very, very muddy third. Add into this damp mix some questionable food, a really very good bacon butty, the permanent smell of weed wafting through the air, some utter freaks that I felt right at home amongst, and, of course, the music – where else could I have been?

In 1969, a farmer saw Led Zeppelin perform at an open-air concert. He concluded that staging an arts festival of his own would be the logical next step, as one would. So, the Pilton Pop, Folk and Blues Festival opened in 1970 and the first headliner was Tyrannosaurus Rex (later known as T-Rex – maybe you made that leap yourself), playing to an audience of 1,500. Jimi Hendrix headlined the next year, which saw the Glastonbury name and a very rudimentary Pyramid Stage initially made from corrugated steel, make their first appearance.

It then started to grow – just a touch – and in 1985 grew too big for one farm alone. The festival

In 1969, a farmer saw Led Zeppelin perform at an open-air concert.

He concluded that staging an arts festival would be the logical next step Above: Michael Eavis in front of the famous Pyramid Stage, which is installed every year and weighs around 40 tonnes

64

FRONT — glastonbury

65

FRONT — glastonbury

66

FRONT — glastonbury

fast became a musical orgy, figuratively speaking.

(Possibly literally, too.) An unorganised chaotic compound of planned and unplanned insanity, official acts rubbed up against impromptu sound systems, signalling the burgeoning acid house movement that would come to define the festival just as much as the headline acts. I mean, who hasn’t found themselves in Silver Hayes at 5am sucking a Chupa-Chup?

By 1990, at the peak of the second summer of love, things – to paraphrase a Chemical Brothers track – were getting out of control, and post-festival saw clashes between security and new age travellers.

1991 became a fallow year – a chance for a reassessment. This rethink included the first appearance of a fence in 1992, a clue to an encroaching sense of organisation, or at least something to contain the madness. A challenge to some, a relief to most, the fence would give us the Glasto we recognise today – a glorious, insane, multicoloured temporary town where anything could happen, and mostly does. Legendary performances were given, artists made their names, legends took their victory lap.

Rolf Harris was there too.

It was supposed to be the 50th anniversary this year. It was supposed to be a lot of things this year.

But it’s almost appropriate that Glastonbury will be celebrating its golden anniversary a year late.

Despite the military-level planning and execution the festival now involves, it hasn’t lost any of its ramshackle, homemade nature – the feeling that it’s all been thrown together in the final week with some gaffer tape and a piece of tarpaulin borrowed from a neighbouring farm.

As if coming full circle in my own Glastonbury experience, Paul McCartney will be headlining again. Just remind me to steer clear of the hotdog stand.

The 14th-century Glastonbury Tor is visible from the festival site

67

It was supposed to be the 50th anniversary this year.

It was supposed to be a lot of things this year

STYLE — photoshoot

68

DIAL PHOTOGRAPHY: TOM PETTIT / FRASER VINCENT

UP

STYLE — photoshoot

GRAND SEIKO SHIZUKUSHI 39mm rose gold case water resistant to 30m Calibre 9S64 automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve €25,000, grand-seiko.com

70

STYLE — photoshoot

71

CHRISTOPHER WARD C60 SAPPHIRE 40mm stainless steel case water resistant to 600m Calibre SW200-1 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve £895, christopherward.co.uk

72

STYLE — photoshoot

GIRARDPERREGAUX ORION 40mm stainless steel case water resistant to 30m Calibre GP0300-0132 automatic movement with 46-hour power reserve CHF 8,700, girard-perregaux.com

73

STYLE — photoshoot

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SIXTIES GLACIER BLUE 39mm stainless steel case water resistant to 30m Calibre 39-42 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve £5,700, glashuette-original.com

74

STYLE — photoshoot

OMEGA SPEEDMASTER GREY SIDE OF THE MOON METEORITE 44.25mm ceramic case water resistant to 50m Calibre 9300 automatic co-axial movement with 60hour power reserve £11,175, omegawatches.com

75

STYLE — photoshoot

MAURICE LACROIX AIKON AUTOMATIC SKELETON 45mm stainless steel case water resistant to 100m Calibre ML234 automatic movement with 52-hour power reserve £4,970, mauricelacroix.com

76

STYLE — photoshoot

SCHWARZ ETIENNE ROSWELL 08 45mm stainless steel case water resistant to 50m Calibre ISE 100.11 automatic movement with 86-hour power reserve £14,300, schwarz-etienne.ch

77

STYLE — photoshoot

CHRONOSWISS REGULATOR CLASSIC BLUE STEEL 41mm blue PVD-coated stainless steel case water resistant to 100m Calibre C. 295 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve €5,000, chronoswiss.com

78

STYLE — photoshoot

ANGELUS U21 TOURBILLON 42mm NPT CarbonFibre & Rose Gold case water resistant to 30m Calibre A-250 Automatic Movement with 90-hour power reserve £45,400, www. angelus-watches.com

79

STYLE — opener

Style 82/ Jo Hambro, rock-star stylist 91/ Our summer edit

81

STYLE — jo hambro

Words: NICK CARVELL

MEET JO HAMBRO:

STEALTH STYLIST OF THE BRITISH MUSIC SCENE 82

STYLE — jo hambro

83

STYLE — jo hambro

Left: Keith Richards shot by Peter Lindbergh on a Manhattan rooftop in 1999, styled by Jo Hambro of British GQ

In 1999, Kieth Richards took part in a photoshoot that has become part of pop culture legend. Shot on a Manhattan rooftop by Peter Lindbergh, the Rolling Stones frontman is captured in black and white against a backdrop of water towers and exposed brick walls. There’s a light stroke of eyeliner on his eyes, and he’s dressed in a floor-skimming, Tom Ford-era Gucci coat, his shirt unbuttoned to his waist exposing an intricate gold cross nestled in his chest fur. So far, so rock star.

However, one of the standout aspects of

“Keith said he’d been asleep on the sofa and when he woke up, he had a charm caught in his hair... I simply loved it and just said, ‘Well, let’s add more!’”

84

the styling of this shoot - and what has made it iconic – is that jewellery adorns his wild hair: gold hoops, beads and pendants cluster around his ears.

“When I turned up to the shoot, Keith said to me that he’d been asleep on the sofa and when he woke up, he had a charm caught in his hair,” says Jo Hambro (formerly Levin), who styled the shoot for British GQ, when I call her at her home in the Cotswolds. “I simply loved it and just said, ‘Well, let’s add more!’”

Her voice lowers to a whisper as she adds mischievously, “I wanted him to be a naughty pirate.’”

Four years later, Johnny Depp would famously take Keith Richards as the inspiration for his character in Pirates of the Caribbean. The actor not only exaggerated the rocker’s English drawl for Jack Sparrow, but also copped his trademark eyeliner, fabric headband and, notably, beads threaded onto the hair hanging from his temples. Hambro’s naughty pirate on set had become a naughty pirate on screen.

There are plenty of little details like this in Hambro’s career, all evidence that she is Britain’s great stealth stylist – someone you might not have seen or even heard of by name (she is notoriously reclusive when it comes to interviews), but you’ll have most definitely encountered her influence somewhere. Often, that will have manifested itself through the music industry in some way – a scene that Hambro’s career continues to be intertwined with.

85

86

STYLE — jo hambro

Hambro styled Aerosmith’s Steven Tyler for this portrait by Gavin Bond

87

STYLE — jo hambro

“They’re wonderful to work with,” says Hambro when I ask her what inspires her about rockstars. “You can have fun, you can be playful, and you can break boundaries. I’m a storyteller. I adore fairy tales and naughty pirates, and when you look at rock stars, that’s what they are – that’s what Keith is. Entering their world, you can learn so much.”

Music first crept into Hambro’s career when she worked with designer Thea Porter in the early 1980s. Having started out at British Vogue in 1979 during its golden era of big budgets and star staffers (“I mean, it was the place. You had Norman Parkinson and Cecil Beaton rushing down the corridor.”), her time with Porter in her early twenties meant organising international fashion shows and brushing shoulders with the rock bands who sported the designer’s Middle Eastern-inspired styles: The Beatles, Pink Floyd, the Rolling Stones. However, it was during her time at British GQ – a title she joined in 1992 – where it became central to her work.

“When I interviewed for the job, I said, ‘suppose instead of using moody, pouty boys in your fashion shoots, why don’t you use great, talented men?’ An Armani coat suddenly becomes interesting for a guy who’s not interested in clothes if someone he is interested in is wearing it, and I think most guys at some point in their life have dreamt of being a rock star.”

Hambro would go on to serve as Creative Fashion Director at GQ for a staggering 24 years, much of which is presented in her new book The Power of the Polaroid: Instantly Forever. Designed

by Stephanie and Michael Nash (a design duo who coincidentally have a long history of creating album covers for a slew of legendary acts, from Roxy Music to Amy Winehouse to INXS), the tome is broken down into chapters that centre on the great photographers she’s worked with – a portfolio of jazz musicians in LA by William Claxton here, a series with Ozzy Osbourne shot by Guzman there. It’s the print equivalent of her greatest hits album, bringing together stories with sketches, contact sheets and, naturally, polaroids she took to give a unique behind-thescenes look at what goes into making magic on set.

“I’m a storyteller.

I adore fairy tales and naughty pirates, and when you look at rock stars, that’s what they are” Below and right: Wlliam Claxton’s portraits of jazz performers at Chicago’s House of Blues, styled by Hambro

88

However, it only scratches the surface of her career. One shoot absent from this book is also one of her favourites: when she styled David Bowie for GQ in 1997.

“I was terrified,” she says, when I ask whether she was nervous to tell one of the most influential figures in modern menswear what to wear. “The night before the shoot, I had a nightmare that I turned up at the studio and there were only pink and blue crochet dresses to put him in!

“When David arrived on set, he shook my hand, looked me straight in the eye and simply said, ‘Show me the clothes’.

Oh, God. Here we go”, she chuckles. “I had called in the entire new season men’s line from Paul Smith for the shoot. He loved it so much he said he wanted the whole collection for his world tour. I knew [Paul] would never be up for that, so I bagged up the entire collection for David after the shoot, then asked Paul’s PR, Gillian McVey, to ring his factory in Nottingham to reproduce the samples – which they did in a week. Paul didn’t find out what I’d done until I told him at a dinner about seven years ago. He howled with laughter.”

Styling musicians has become something of a side-hustle for Hambro. Around the turn of the Millennium she met Elton John while putting together a portfolio of the celebrity clientele of Richard James – who, at that time, was shaking up Savile Row with his modern tailoring and bright, airy shop. She has been the Rocketman’s friend and personal stylist ever since – he’s even written the foreword to her new book, alongside his husband David Furnish.

What is it about the way Elton dresses that she thinks has made him resonate as a style icon throughout his career?

“Oh my god! Elton is playful, fun, full of energy – a force of nature. And he wears colour like no-one else,” she says. “The thing about musicians is that they allow themselves to get lost in who they are. So when they sing or play an instrument, they are themselves. When they dress, they are themselves. That’s very sexy. And I think that resonates with everybody.”

The Power of the Polaroid: Instantly Forever

by Jo Hambro (Clearview, £30) is available to buy at Waterstones now. johambrocreative.com // waterstones.com

STYLE — jo hambro

89

STYLE — must-haves

SUMMER JUST GOT MORE FUN

It’s safe to say we’re all looking for a bit more joy wherever we can get it right now, and nothing fits the bill better when it comes to wardrobe updates than a ‘fun shirt’. The story goes that its origins lay with Brooks Brothers’ Vice President in the 1970s, Ash Wall. While he was visiting one of his factories, he spotted one of the training shirts made by his factory trainees out of scraps of fabric, tried one on and reportedly said, “these are some fun shirts!” Fifty years later, these perky, preppy mash-ups of bright colours and bold stripes will still bring a smile to your face.

Summer updates edit

J CREW,

> Cut from various colours of texturerich, breathable cotton Seersucker, this will not only keep you looking cool but also feeling cool in the blazing heat this summer. £89, JCREW.COM

edit: NICK CARVELL

ROWING BLAZERS,

> One for die-hard ‘fun shirt’ fans, Rowing Blazers has released a faithful remake of Brooks Brothers’ Seventies ‘fun shirt’ in its original colours – made in its spiritual home, the USA. £142 ($175), ROWINGBLAZERS.COM

DRAKE’S,

> For full Franken-shirt effect, take a look at this shirt from London tailor Drake’s which not only combines clashing colours, but also clashing stripes for pleasingly eye-popping results. £225, DRAKES.COM

POLO RALPH LAUREN,

> Ralph Lauren made his name in the Eighties pushing the Ivy League agenda, so it’s no surprise that this pastel number from his Polo line has a Graduate-meets-Miami-Vice vibe. £105, RALPHLAUREN.CO.UK

91

STYLE — must-haves

YOUR SHIRT’S SOFTENED UP

If you’ve been watching Hollywood on Netflix you’ll know that it’s not only a reminder of how morally messed up the town was in the 1950s, but also that the leading men back then had an unimpeachably good dress sense. Luckily, one of the key items of the era, the knitted button-through, is having a comeback just in time for sun season. Wear it open with a white vest underneath or tucked into a pair of double-pleat cotton trousers for maximum matinee idol effect.

YURI & YURI,

> A relative newcomer to Savile Row, Yuri & Yuri specialises in tailored separates crafted from rare fabrics sourced. This dusty pink-brown number is cut from Serie, a man-made fibre with a silky feel that, according to the tailoring house, is also robust enough to last a decade in your wardrobe. £370, YURIYURI.CO.UK

92

STYLE — must-haves

SCOTT FRASER COLLECTION, > As a king of the mid-century menswear aesthetic, it’s no surprise that London-based designer Scott Fraser Simpson has a variety of terrific takes on the button-through polo. We especially enjoy his bright, colourburst graphic iterations.

MADE TO ORDER £225-£245, SCOTTFRASERCOLLECTION.COM

JOHN SMEDLEY,

> For a more minimal option, take a look at John Smedley’s ‘Creek’ polo. Available in easy-to-wear colours of navy blue and light grey, this shirt features a slightly slouchier cut as well as a casual covered pocket. £190, JOHNSMEDLEY.COM

SUNSPEL,

> In the grand scheme of things, there’s very little a navy shirt like this from Sunspel’s new Indigodyed line can’t be worn with. Hanging loose over mid-wash jeans? Sure. Tucked into Gurkha shorts?

Go for it. Slipped under a chino suit? Superb. £145, SUNSPEL.COM

93

STYLE — must-haves

MORJAS,

> Beaches might not be the first thing that springs to mind when you think of Scandinavia, but that hasn’t stopped Swedish shoemaker Morjas re-making every one of its styles in sand-coloured suede in time for summer. €240 (APPROX £210), MORJAS.COM

BRING THE BEACH TO YOUR FEET You’re probably not heading outside much right now, so there’s never been a better time to test out shoes in a devil-may-care colour – and seeing as the last thing many of us will be stepping onto this summer is a beach, we’d suggest slipping your feet into the next best thing: sandy suede.

HERRING,

> If you’re going to wear a shoe the colour of a desert, it might as well be one made explicitly to walk across them. Initially made for South African soldiers in the 1940s, the desert boot has yet to fall out of fashion – and it’s best worn this summer with military shorts and some chunky socks.

HERRINGSHOES.CO.UK

MYRQVIST,

> Generally known for its more formal styles, Stockholm-based cobbler Myrqvist also offers brand fans a sleek, sandy take on a sneaker. Made in Portugal, it’s just arrived back in stock – so get a pair before they sell out again.

MYRQVIST.SE

GRENSON,

> Rugged and preppy, Grenson’s ‘Bennet’ with its distinctive tasselled laces is cut from Italian pearl suede and finished with a chunky commando sole. Great-looking even if the only manoeuvres you’re being sent on is to get supplies from the corner shop. £255, GRENSON.COM

94

STYLE — must-haves

SPRAY ON A ‘SUN LOUNGER SCENT’

Mourning the loss of a summer break sitting under a palm tree or sipping a Margarita by the pool? Fake it. There are plenty of scents out there right now with big hits of coconut and rum, spliced with tropical florals, warming musks and crisp citruses. Close your eyes, spray on and bring the beach to you.

VIRGIN ISLAND WATER

BY CREED, > Inspired by a sailing trip in the Caribbean, Creed’s Virgin Island Water combines sexy, deep splashes of rum, sugar cane and musk with coconut, before amping up the freshness with lime, bergamot and jasmine. £230 FOR 100ML, CREEDFRAGRANCES.CO.UK

SUNDAZED BY BYREDO,

> What sets Swedish perfume house Byredo apart from its peers is its willingness to take risks – even if it might raise an eyebrow. Nowhere in its collection is this better seen than in Sundazed, which cuts its otherwise citrusy-musky juice with a big, bold hit of summery candy floss. Eyebrowraising on paper? Sure. But trust us, this one’s seriously addictive. £170 FOR 100ML, BYREDO.COM

95

STYLE — must-haves

EAU DE SOLEIL BLANC

BY TOM FORD,

> You know that incredible sun lotion smell? Well, this is it bottled and refined as only Tom Ford can. Creamy notes of tonka bean, coconut and pistachio combine with crisp citrus, warming spices and fragrant florals to instantly transport you to an exclusive resort, Piña Colada in hand. £83 FOR 50ML, TOMFORD.CO.UK

BEACH WALK BY MAISON MARGIELA,

> This might say ‘female scent’ on the label, but we all know a liquid can’t be gendered – that’s bonkers. Instead, focus on what’s inside the bottle: a salty, sweet, citrusy blend of coconut, lemon, ylang-ylang and musk that smells like brisk coastal air on a warm day. £98 FOR 100ML, AVAILABLE AT JOHNLEWIS.COM

WEAR WITH: Swimmers good enough for the street Even if you’re not going to wear them in the water, swimming shorts can be just as effective at getting you in a summer state of mind on land. Slip on this pair of sunny, deckchair-striped seersucker shorts from Mr Marvis with a pair of espadrilles and a billowy button-down, and we guarantee you’ll get holiday vibes on even the most mundane socially-distanced excursion. mrmarvis.com

96

FRONT — rock stars

WORDS:

SAM KESSLER

THE WRIST CANDY OF THE GREATEST ROCK STARS IN HISTORY

HOROLOGY'S MUSICAL CONNECTIONS DIDN'T BEGIN WITH HIP-HOP – FAR FROM IT. HERE ARE THE ROCK WORLD'S WATCHES OF CHOICE

99

FRONT — rock stars

TO BE A GREAT ROCK STAR, ONE NEEDS THREE THINGS: style, attitude and, ideally, some iota of musical talent. For our part though, we’d argue for one more element to that list: a serious timepiece. Skull-topped top hats and flamboyant shirts are all well and good, but that’s just show; a watch is about taste.

Here then, are some of the greatest musicians of all time whose guitar collections are at least equalled by their watches.

And don’t worry that most of these guys are wearing serious collectors' pieces that you’ll not find outside a Geneva watch auction. So you can live out your rock star wrist candy fantasy we’ve also given you the modern equivalent. You’re welcome.

TAG HEUER Autavia, £2,750 tagheuer.com

ELVIS PRESLEY’S HAMILTON VENTURA (PREVIOUS PAGE)

HAMILTON VENTURA ELVIS80 Quartz, £870 hamiltonwatch.com

The King of Rock ‘n’ Roll needs no introduction; Elvis the Pelvis was the hip-thrusting, up-tempo (possibly Mafia-affiliated) bad boy that brought music kicking and screaming into the atomic age. From fresh-faced conscript to the old hound dog eating peanut-butterbanana-bacon sandwiches on the toilet, he’s to this day one of the most influential musicians to have ever lived. In some ways, so is his watch of choice.

The Hamilton Ventura, icon of the 60s, was the first electronic wristwatch, dubious honour that it is.

Tied in with a unique, shield case shape and the perfect look for the shiny new electronic era, it’s no wonder that when Elvis was gifted the watch for Blue Hawaii he rarely took it off. Hell, he had a habit of giving them out to friends. It’s not the priciest watch ever built, but even the Venturas of today like the aptly named Elvis80 are incredibly cool.

MICK JAGGER’S HEUER CARRERA

The strutting frontman of the Rolling Stones certainly had flair back in the band’s drug-fuelled, hedonistic heyday.

Between spitting out dark, edgy lyrics and just owning the stage with his wanton flamboyance, he was – and still is – the rock star of rock stars – and he looks a damn sight better than some of his bandmates.

Despite his presence on stage though, his timepiece of choice is far more low-key than you might expect. Despite having enough cash for a Keith Richards-sized mountain of cocaine (which is more or less what he was back then), Jagger opted for the low-key pieces of Heuer. He wore a few, including the Monaco, but it was the original tachymeter-equipped Carrera 1153N he kept going back to. It’s a classic and, while the modern-day TAG Heuer has modernised the Carrera, the vintage-inspired Autavias are a solid throwback to the Stones of the 60s.

100

FRONT — rock stars

PATEK PHILIPPE 5159J, £73,620 patek.com

JOHN LENNON’S PATEK PHILIPPE TRIPLE DATE CHRONOGRAPH

The watch in question actually comes from one of the last photos ever taken of Lennon

From likely lad from Liverpool thrust onto the world stage to icon of a cultural revolution to revolutionary artist and full-time napper, John Lennon’s impact on the world can’t be underestimated. His solo back catalogue – let alone the genre-pushing discography of the Beatles – is more than most musicians could even dream of. While his life and career were cut short, having marked his 40th birthday just two months before his fatal run-in with Mark David Chapman, Lennon’s influence remains.

The watch in question actually comes from one of the last photos ever taken of Lennon; his Patek Philippe Triple Date Chronograph was supposedly a 40th birthday present (along with a Tiffany Stars & Stripe tie pin) from Yoko Ono, a far more horologically extravagant piece than you might expect from a bohemian artists obsessed with white. There’s no denying that it suits Lennon’s wrist nicely, all the more so for the contrast with his intentionally dishevelled look. Nobody seems to know where the specific Ref. 2499 went, but if it turns up it’ll give Paul Newman’s Paul Newman a run for its money.

101

FRONT — rock stars

ERIC CLAPTON’S ALBINO ROLEX DAYTONA

One of the greatest guitarists of all time and a living legend, Clapton’s been the six-stringed backbone of bands ranging from The Yardbirds (incidentally my first ever gig) to Cream. He’s also a man that knows quality, thanks to his blues-influenced rock ‘n’ roll lyricism, can afford the best. Think custom Boss & Co guns, an on-point mix of Italian tailoring and Japanese streetwear and a Rolex collection to make any watch lover swoon.

Sure, Clapton’s been known to dabble in Patek Philippe too; who of that stature hasn’t? But Rolex is the guitarist’s first horological love and he’s been seen sporting Subs, Day-Dates, GMT-Master IIs and even a Milgauss. The most legendary however is the Albino Daytona (white dials, black tachymeter) that sold for over half a million at auction, of which there are less than five in existence. Good luck finding one of those. Still, the modern Daytona Cosmograph below is a decent stand-in.

ROLEX Cosmograph Daytona, £10,500 rolex.com

SLASH’S BREITLING CHRONOMAT

Nobody can pull off flaming guitar licks in a top hat quite like Slash, one of the only guys that can wear skulls, rings and rips aplenty without looking like a D&D nerd’s picture of what a rock god should look like. From the opening bars of Appetite for Destruction to his modern touring schedule and plenty of stage appearances, he’s the heavy rock gift that keeps on riffing.

That of course comes with an impressive collection of guitars – you name it, he has it – but on the watch front Slash has only been seen with a couple of pieces. Well, what can be seen through a wrist full of beads, bands and bracelets. The latest is his Hulk Submariner with its signature green dial, but my favourite is the Breitling Chronomat of the 60s. Slash’s comes with a UTC module – essentially a separate, smaller watch used for keeping track of local time – which Breitling’s newly launched Chronomats don’t; otherwise though, they maintain the same chunky, retro style that Axl Rose wouldn’t argue with.

102

BREITLING Chronomat, £6,650 breitling.com

FRONT FRONT——microbrands rock stars

BALL Engineer Hydrocarbon, £ 2,580 ballwatch.com

ERIC SINGER’S BALL SPRINGLOCK PROTOTYPE

Singer’s collection includes the likes of Blancpain, Breguet, Panerai, Rolex, Omega – the list goes on and on

The only grown man that can wear cat make-up and not have a nearby mother call the police, Eric Singer’s not the original Kiss drummer – he’s the third, in fact – but he’s the current incumbent of the Catman persona and still tours with the heavy metal make-up artists. That said, he’s almost as well-known for his watch collection, a hereditary love he had long before taking up the whiskers.

The drummer has a serious appreciation of horology, and Singer’s collection includes the likes of Blancpain, Breguet, Panerai, Rolex, Omega – the list goes on and on. Surprisingly though, it’s Ball that he perhaps has the most interesting relationship with. The watchmaker went to Singer to test out its patented SpringLock shock protection system on stage, a bold move given what a heavy metal drummer’s wrists go through, and gave the entire band prototype watches. It’s now the only watch Singer wears on stage; if that’s not an ear-ringing endorsement, nothing is.

JOHN PAUL JONES’ ROLEX GMT MASTER

While Robert Plant and Jimmy Page soaked up most of the Led Zeppelin limelight, bassist John Paul Jones provided the backbone of the band’s sometimes trippy, sometimes chaotic, Hobbit-loving sound.

Indeed, he’s considered one of the most innovative musicians of his era, and that’s saying something. On his wrist throughout a huge amount of that (often dazed and confused) time, Jones had a whole lotta love for one watch: the GMT Master.

Built in the early 70s, the twotone timepiece is a true classic, telling two timezones rather than the three of the GMT-Master II that replaced it. It’s an understated timepiece par excellence, perfect for the quietest member of one of the loudest bands in history – and he’s still wearing it today. In fact, it doesn’t look like he’s ever taken the thing off. Not that he needs to; it’s as cool now as it was when he got it, and likely worth a record deal’s worth more.

103

ROLEX GMT-Master II, £11,850 rolex.com

FRONT — rock stars

BRIAN MAY’S SEIKO 5 SPORTS

© Denis Pellerin

It’s not a rock star watch list without a collaborative limited edition or two.

Thankfully I’ve only allowed myself one this time and, while there are plenty of cool pieces to choose from (Ronnie Wood’s eclectic painted dials for Bremont comes to mind) my choice is this guitar-inspired piece from Seiko and the inimitable Brian May. As lead guitarist of Queen, it’s impossible to overstate the impact Brian May has had on modern music.

He created a stadium-filling anthem from a bit of stomping and clapping and was possibly the only fitting foil Freddy Mercury could have ever found.

The starting point for May and Seiko’s collaborative watch is the Red Special, the guitar that Brian and May Snr built out of a fireplace and old motorcycle parts. There’s no other six-string quite like it and it’s been the Queen guitarist’s go-to for pretty much his entire career. No being smashed on stage for the Red Special.

The mahogany red and shape of the guitar make for a nicely abstract dial on the Seiko 5, which has done a good job of imitating the gloss finish of the wood. It’s limited to 9,000 pieces, but given the current sexiness of Seiko among collectors, that’s not a huge number at all.

The mahogany red and shape of the guitar make for a nicely abstract dial on the Seiko 5 SEIKO 5 Sports X Brian May, £500 seikowatches.com

104

FRONT — guitars

GIBSON LES PAUL SPECIAL DOUBLE CUT FIGURED TOP

It’s not just the watch world that loves a throwback and this retro masterpiece from Gibson Les Paul takes its design cues from a handful of different 1959 models. The result is a new guitar that looks like a golden-era classic, especially in the snakeskin colouring or the cobra burst finish. With its Custombuckers, an ABR-1 bridge and stop-bar setup, it sounds as good as it looks. $4,499, gibson.com

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

THE RIGHT NOTE NO ROCKER IS COMPLETE WITHOUT HIS OR HER WEAPON OF CHOICE. HERE ARE FIVE GUITARS WE LOVE

JIMI HENDRIX. ERIC CLAPTON. CHUCK BERRY. In the heady world of sex, drugs and rock ‘n’ roll, everyone wants to be a guitar-shredding god. Nearly all of us will fail in that of course (if you don’t, we’d like tickets please), but that doesn’t mean you can’t look (and to some extent, sound) the part.

Aside from whatever grunge/goth/ old-school rocker look you want to go for, that means a decent guitar, and with one of these bad boys, a poor workman can’t blame his tools. Just his bandmates.

Just don’t go smashing them on stage, ok?

107

FRONT — guitars

IBANEZ PS4CM

Whether you’re a fan of Kiss’s Paul Stanley or not, there’s no denying that this cracked mirror of a guitar is incredibly cool. Assembled one piece at a time in Japan, the obsessive attention-to-detail of the finish contrasts the shattered gold with a smooth ebony fretboard, all underpinned by the warm tones of the guitar’s Seymour Duncan® '59 model and Custom 5™ pickups. It’s as much an art piece as an instrument. $6,999, ibanez.com

FENDER SALEEN STRATOCASTER 1

Finally the inimitable Saleen 1 supercar has a soundtrack worthy of its performance, courtesy of Fender’s Dream Factory, the bespoke arm of the storied company. With curves imitating the aerodynamism of the car’s bodywork and in a striking candy-apple red, it’s a supercharged beauty that’s rarer than a humble frontman. $33,000, fender.com

The obsessive attention-to-detail of the finish contrasts the shattered gold with a smooth ebony fretboard

108

FRONT — guitars

EPIPHONE MASTERBILT FRONTIER

A recreation of the ultra-rare Epiphone Frontier, this modern interpretation is aesthetically authentic, with the guitar’s famous rope and cactus pickguard paired with a lovely ice-teaaged gloss finish. Thanks to the Fishman™ Sonitone™ Onboard Preamp System though, the Frontier sounds better than ever, the guitar equivalent of a revival timepiece. £699, epiphone.com

SCHECTER PT APOCALYPSE RED REIGN

A favourite of death-metal rockers the world over, Schecter’s PT Apocalypse is the cornerstone of its gothic line-up, and for good reason. Built from swamp ash for strong mid-range clarity, the sound is complemented by the in-house Schecter Apocalypse-VI pickups. Finished in a hellish textured red reign colour, it’s dark, moody and ready to shred. £1,149, schecterguitars.com

109

© Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 39mm stainless steel case water resistant to 30m • In-house caliber 39-52 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • £5,700, One-year production, glashuette-original.com

110

FRONT — watch reviews

GLASHÜTTE Original Sixties Glacier Blue

I never thought I’d get all that excited about an annual Glashütte Original release; the Saxon watchmaker’s never really caught my attention all that much, despite being objectively fantastic timepieces.

But here we are, with the third instalment of the Glashütte Original Sixties series and, so as to not keep you in suspense, I love it.

When I first saw the announcement of the Glacier Blue I was a bit put out. Where was the bright, crazed colour of the previous orange and green numbers? You know, a flash of colour saturated enough to seem garish at a rave?

Instead we have something that’s just as grey-blue as its name suggests.

The lacquer is stunning, and makes full use of the characteristic domed shape of the dial to catch the light

Now, granted I still wish there were a brighter tinge to the dials, but evidently Glashütte Original was tired of the praise that mere novelty gets you. These pieces have a lot more to the dial than just colour.

The colour you see is the result of two distinct layers of lacquer. The first is a standard dark blue, the kind you see on plenty a watch face nowadays. Over that is painted a second, paler blue to give the shimmering, degradé effect before being burned into the dial. It’s stunning, and makes full use of the characteristic domed shape of the dial to catch the light.

The final touch dial side is the Sixties’ signature stylised numerals, subtle white against the grey-blue colouring, which are far cooler than they have any right to be. Sure it doesn’t have quite the impact of the 2018 and 2019 models and there are probably going to be fewer collectors going crazy for it, but the Glacier Blue feels like a more thought-out, considered and more wearable variation on the theme.

The big news of course is that the Sixties is now available as a chronograph. I can’t give you any more first-hand information there than that it exists, as we were given the time-only version. I would say that, given the choice, I’d still opt for the time-only though. I admit that the chronograph might make for a more casual daily-wear watch, but when the lacquer-work is the core of the watch, I’d want it completely uninterrupted.

Not all the action is dial-side though; the Calibre 39-52 movement is gorgeously decorated, with Saxon watchmaking’s signature Glashütte stripes across rotor and hallmark threequarter plate. Inlaid with gold lettering and ever rotor edge bevelled, it’s a lot more opulent than you might expect from the restrained overall design. Still, if you can pull it off, go for it. Glashütte Original can definitely pull it off.

My only qualm about the new Sixties (other than it only being available for a year of course) is the strap. I’d have loved a dark blue to match that outer ring of lacquered underlayer, to really highlight the depth of colour across the dial rather than the fuzzy brown number it’s equipped with. Still, it’s not a deal-breaker as is and it’s an easy fix.

The Glashütte Original Sixties 2020 Annual Edition might not be the show-stopper that previous editions were, but it’s also less one-note. By pulling back a little on the novelty, the Saxon watchmaker has created a more considered and downright lovely piece. Get it while you can. £5,700, One-year production, glashuette-original.com

111

© Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 40mm stainless steel case water resistant to 600m • Calibre SW200-1 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £895, christopherward.co.uk

112

FRONT — watch reviews

CHRISTOPHER WARD Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition

I’m beginning to lose track of how many new Christopher Ward releases there are in any given month. The British brand is rolling out enough variations on its C60 Tridents that I’m beginning to roll my eyes every time a new one hits my inbox.

That’s not to say they’re not worth looking at of course: everything from the incredible (and aptly-named) Apex to the Ministry of Defence pieces show that the brand extends in all directions, enough that I’m always a little worried it’ll spread itself too thin. Still, with the CW C60 Sapphire on my wrist, that’s a worry for another day.

There are no prizes for guessing where this particularly sexy Trident variation gets its name. The dial here is made from a 0.6mm thick sapphire crystal with a lovely blue tint.

In full-on light you can see through it; in less bright environments it’s almost opaque. The result is less skeletonised, more semi-transparent and suggestive; lingerie rather than nudity.

It means that, while you can clearly see the outlines of the movement behind the blue, there’s none of that busyness that skeleton or open-worked watches tend to stray into.

Even the wording on the dial is nice and clear against it.

Between the dial and the matching tinted sapphire caseback, you can get a double-sided view of the workhorse Sellita SW-200 powering the watch, a little twist on a movement that’s pretty much everywhere ETA isn’t. It’s a solid piece of work, nothing ground-breaking but well-suited to a practical diver. Even if said diver uses something as off-kilter as a sapphire dial.

A few flashes of orange play against that blue background, though playful as the watch is I’d prefer to see a little more.

Still, it works nicely with the royal blue insert on the bezel.

Not that there’s all that much room to work with; the 40mm stainless steel case feels small for a diving watch. Not prohibitively tiny, just less intensely functional compared to your usual submarine fare.

It looks pretty slim, too, though that’s partially thanks to the finishing more than it actually being thin. Christopher Ward’s light-catcher design is supposed to make its watches appear more streamlined than they actually are – and it works. Between that and the 40mm diameter, it’s the perfect size for daily wear.

We were sent the watch on the bracelet which is fine; it’s a solid piece of work and is comfortable enough. Generally though I prefer straps and this case is no exception, particularly when the hybrid rubber number includes more blue and orange to spark off that dial. But hey, to each their own and if you were going to use this as a true diver (it’s 600m water resistance can definitely handle it) then the bracelet would probably work better for you.

113

Honestly, despite the first impression the C60 Sapphire makes, it’s a safer variation on the theme than plenty of Christopher Ward’s other recent releases. It’s a great addition to the range, helps it stand out for more than just its impressive specs sheet, but it’s not ground-breaking.

Now a full sapphire case, that’s something else. Anyone taking odds on whether we’ll see that soon? I wouldn’t bet too hard against it. £895, christopherward.co.uk

The light-catcher design is supposed to make the watches appear more streamlined than they actually are – and it works

CULTURE — food & drink

EDITED BY AMIRA

JEAN-PHILIPPE BLONDET OF ALAIN DUCASSE AT THE DORCHESTER ON COOKING AT HOME DURING LOCKDOWN One of the finest chefs currently working in the UK reveals his tips to fabulous cooking at home

115

CULTURE — food & drink

We’ve all been mastering our culinary skills during this period of isolation.

Well, trying at least. Whether you’re the king or queen of banana bread or you prefer taking on a full steak dinner, the closure of restaurants has seen restaurant-goers take matters into their own hands.

But what of Michelin-starred chefs?

How have they been getting on without their want-for-nothing huge kitchens and armies of sous chefs? Have they been cooking the same dishes or just

adjusting to home life? I took some time to sit down (virtually, don’t worry) with Jean-Philippe Blondet, executive chef of Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, to discuss all of the above and any tips and tricks he has for cooking his style of cuisine at home.

If you’ve ever had the chance to try one of London’s only three-Michelin Star restaurants, you’ll understand just how impeccable, precise and multi-faceted its take on classic French haute cuisine is. However, immediately my dreams of Alain Ducasse-level food at home were crushed, as Jean-Philippe admits that “some parts of them take several days to create” and that “several people are involved in one dish; my domestic appliances aren’t quite as sophisticated as those we have in the restaurant kitchen”. It’s nice to know that a Michelin-starred chef and I share some of the same adversities in the kitchen.

In terms of advice for anyone trying to cook haute French cuisine during quarantine, Jean-Philippe says that the most important thing is quality produce.

“If you find the most local, seasonal and fresh vegetables, half the job is done.”

He recommends researching local restaurant suppliers and grocers online so you can actually create meals with the same ingredients at home.

Once you have that sorted the easiest place to start, according to the Executive Chef, is brioche. “With a food processor, it is quite easy to do and it is a basic in French cuisine.” Head to his personal Instagram (@jeanphilippeblondet) to see a recipe if you’re thinking of trying this out for yourself. You’ll be one step closer to Michelin star-quality food as Jean-Philippe shares that the team at Alain Ducasse use brioche for quite a few recipes including the cauliflower, aged comté and black truffle. It’s as sumptuous as it sounds.

Moving onto key tools or utensils for the kitchen, Jean-Philippe says that

116

“If you find the most local, seasonal and fresh vegetables, half the job is done.”

“whilst it can be expensive, a food processor is always a good friend to have in the kitchen”. It comes in handy particularly when baking bread, cakes and making pasta etc. “Aside from this, good kitchen knives are a chef’s best friend” and these are also really accessible online, he assures.

Tasting your food along the way and seasoning your dish is the mark of any professional chef. For anyone trying to emulate Jean-Philippe’s cooking at home, not only does he recommend you do the same, but also that “you need to show your emotions in your plate.”

That means using recipes as a rough guide rather than a formula and trying things out yourself.

When it comes to sauces, if you’re looking to leave the days of Dolmio behind you, pay attention here. “For me, sauces are very important, even essential, in the cuisine,” Jean-Philippe states. “My goal is not to waste anything and use every part of the protein or the vegetable”, revealing that he often uses vegetable peelings or trimmings to cook sauces, stocks and juices. “For me, this is a powerful link between the meat and the garnish.”

CULTURE — food & drink

Jean-Philippe Blondet has been executive chef at the threeMichelin-starred Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester since 2013

117

CULTURE — food & drink

118

CULTURE — food & drink

NECESSITIES FOR ANY FRENCH KITCHEN Olive oil. It is in my roots. I come from the French Riviera, so I never cook with butter. I love olive oil and I use it all the time, in every recipe.

Sea salt. It is very important to taste every preparation of one dish and to season it. A chef can’t live without salt.

Butter. When I do some kinds of pastry, I always need butter. It is the base of pastry so you will always find it in my fridge.

Onions. I love them. Raw to season and they bring punch to a dish or cooked in sauce or a preparation – they are an essential component to so many dishes.

Vegetable stock.

I love to cook my veggies in a stock, so I do it myself with the peelings of the vegetables we have used and keep it in the fridge.

Doing it this way, you are able to bring much more power and intensity to dishes. And it is so easy to do: you just need to put the peelings in boiling water and let it cook for 20 minutes.

For anyone interested in learning to create some of Jean-Philippe’s dishes at home, he does a weekly takeover every Thursday afternoon on the @alainducasseatthedorchester Instagram page. “It is a simple recipe with a French, three-stars touch.”

With someone to guide you

“Take the time we have now at home to enjoy and to cook” 119

through it though, everyone can tackle it.

“Take the time we have now at home to enjoy and to cook,” Jean Philippe advises. “We always complain not to have enough time to cook at home, so now we can definitely do it – and do it well.”

CULTURE — the last drop

Words:

Aidy Smith

THE LAST DROP DISTILLERS:

THE WORLD’S MOST EXCLUSIVE SPIRITS COLLECTION For those seeking something exclusive and extraordinary in the glass, The Last Drop is a great place to start

120

CULTURE — the last drop

You see, out there in the world, hidden in the darkest corners of distilleries, wineries and bodegas sit rare treats that have stood the test of time. Some of these, their owners are very much aware exist, whereas others have simply gone forgotten given the sheer number of casks stored. While I may be able to look up a listing on an auction site, I’m not able to walk into a highly fortified warehouse to take a peek at 50+ year old casks. But there is a company which is – and my god has it sourced some treasures. Enter, The Last Drop Distillers.

But here’s the thing, regardless of what your company is, you don’t get to simply walk into any old warehouse, for that, you need credentials and relationships that have been forged over many years – and these two things are exactly what this team holds, which is why this company has been able to achieve so It’s people like this who attain the muchmuch in such little time.

Co-Founders James Espey and needed knowledge, relationships and palates, the late Tom Jago are two very familiar based on decades of experience names within the drinks industry, having throughout their joint careers of over 110 years been responsible for the growth of Below (from left): Rebecca Jago, Beanie Espey, countless iconic spirits like J&B Rare, Johnnie Walker, Tom Jago and James Espey Chivas Regal and Bailey’s Irish Cream to name just a few.

Today, the company is overseen by the next generation, Rebecca Jago and Beanie Espey, both of whom over the years have comfortably called the drinks industry their home, following in the footsteps of their fathers and in the process showcasing that this industry is just as much for women as it is for men.

Then there’s the various directors of the company, each with their own unique skillsets – take Ben Howkins for example, one of the most charming gentlemen I have met and an encyclopaedia for anything sherry, port, tokaji and so much more. It’s people like this who attain the much-needed knowledge, relationships and palates, based on decades of experience, to determine the quality of those magical finds.

The point I’m trying to make is that this company is built up of a family of gracious people who have an exceptional talent to seek out precious ‘last drops’ of some of the oldest and most perfect spirits in existence.

But even then, it’s not easy and the team openly acknowledges just how difficult it is to succeed in their quest; not all spirits age well and too long in wood can ruin them. But occasionally all the elements – original distillate, type of wood, the right climate for storage – combine to produce an unlikely miracle.

Right, I keep referring to these miracles, so at the risk of beginning to sound like a cork-tease, I suppose I should tell you about some of the most fascinating finds The Last Drop has come to discover. Here are six instrumental releases that have given this company its reputation over time.

I’ve always considered alcohol like art – you have your raw ingredients, whether grape, grain or anything in-between, much like you have your paint, chalk or pencils. Upon taking your palate you begin to create your masterpiece on the canvas, one colour and one stroke or brush at a time. Take your distillation methods or winemaking process, which yeasts you use, how many times you filter and the same can be said for producing wine and spirits. The connection between the two has always fascinated me and much like procurers of fine art, I spend a lot of my time searching auction sites around the world in an attempt to find a truly old, truly unique piece of history that I can add to my collection.

Sometimes I’ll drink it, sometimes I’ll simply admire it.

121

CULTURE — the last drop

122

CULTURE — the last drop

The Last Drop Release No 14:

the 1925 Hors d’Age Grande Champagne Cognac As if a 1950 Cognac wasn’t a triumph in itself, the team decided to take things one step further and the story behind this particular find is stunning. A single barrel of a Cognac, distilled by the current owner’s grandfather in 1925, was hidden behind a wall of rubble as the Germans approached the south-west of France before WWII. Forgotten, it lay there until late 2017, when the grandson undertook some renovation work on one of the barns, and there was a treasure: barely enough for 182 bottles of a simply glorious 93-year-old Cognac, untouched for over 70 years. It had never been topped up or in any way tampered with and is believed to have spent its life in an ex-Pineau des Charentes barrel, which imparts an extraordinary sweetness. In a fitting tribute, this true beauty was made in the year Tom Jago was born and bottled in the year he passed – a lovely nod to a man who has helped get moments of history like this into the hands of those who will truly appreciate them.

The Last Drop Release No 1:

the 1960 Blended Scotch Whisky This was the very first release and how it all began.

Upon launching the company James and Tom knew they needed to do something special, so calling upon their incredible list of contacts in Scotland, Tom narrowed down his search to three casks, which upon tasting, he immediately knew were the ones.

Up until the day he passed away in October 2018, Tom swore this was the best whisky he’d ever tasted – which coming from a man whose career was built on building brands made from the stuff, is quite a lot.

Hidden away in the back of a warehouse in the Lowlands, what really set these casks apart was not where they were hidden so much as the treasure that was hidden inside. You see, The Last Drop aren’t just ‘rare spirit hunters’ in the sense of the quest, and the treasure hunt, but also in their ability to source and uncover gems that are literally hidden in plain sight.

It took three years to sell out of the first release, but this bottle set the benchmark of quality for what was soon to become the most highly accoladed rare spirits company in the world.

The Last Drop Release No 2:

the 1950 Cognac

A single barrel of Cognac was hidden behind a wall of rubble as the Germans approached the south-west of France before WWII

Their second release was one of grave importance because it set it apart from being an ‘independent bottler of Scotch Whisky’, by which I mean a company who simply bottles a whisky then sells it on. You see, by releasing a Cognac it became a ‘Spirits Company’ and Cognac was by no means its only foray beyond the dram. Once again, that carefully built contact list of colleagues became invaluable and they found themselves sourcing a 1950 Cognac from a familyowned business on the banks of Charente that has been in operation for multiple generations. This was the beginning of a fascinating evolution.

The Last Drop Release No 7:

the 1972 Lochside Single-Grain Scotch Whisky Only 106 bottles were ever created from this incredibly rare single cask. It’s not often to firstly find a whisky as old as this, but secondly from a distillery which no longer exists and Lochside is an example of just that.

Its mission to champion single-grain whiskies continued as it maintained its reputation for producing incredibly small amounts of precious liquids. A light, but complex whisky which deserved to be seen for the gleaming gem it had become.

123

CULTURE — the last drop

drinks and how they came to be. If you’re anything like me, you’ll like to have at least one wonder sitting atop the shelf, the bounty of a collection and something so exquisitely rare that others can only look at in envy.

The Last Drop has created something truly wonderful – the ability to help people experience a piece of history, emotion, wonder and above all else quality. I now can only wait in anticipation to discover what its next releases may be. Until then, if you’d like more information on any of the above – simply contact The Last Drop Distillers directly. thelastdropdistillers.com

The Last Drop Release No 11

Centenario Duo of Tawny Ports 1870 and 1970 As both a wine and spirits lover, this is where the two worlds intertwine, and this is a product I have been fortunate enough to call my own. I remember the first time I took a sip, the two side-by-side and tears began to form in my eyes. Much like anyone with a passion there are some moments where we try a liquid so rare in its nature and so tasty that it hits us in a way we simply can’t explain and that’s when I realised exactly what The Last Drop offers its customers. Tasting this for the first time was one of those rare occurrences that will stay with me for a lifetime.

To put things into historical reference – to taste a port that is older than the Titanic, well, you can imagine the beauty of that moment. But these things are by no means easy to source and it was Ben Howkins, a true pioneer in port exploration leading the effort alongside Cristiano van Zeller – a name synonymous with the port industry.

Together they discovered not one, but two aged tawny ports from the same vineyards, but made 100 years apart: in 1870 and in 1970. Not only 100 years apart, but also divided by Phylloxera: the older port was made from grapes on pre-Phylloxera vines, the younger on vines grafted onto American root stock after the louse wiped out almost all the vines of Europe. A chance to taste history, and to take enormous pleasure in doing so: these ports are incomparably delicious and so different from one other, the 1870 is deeper and more savoury, while the 1970 is positively fresh and floral.

The Last Drop Release No 13

1982 Bourbon Whisky from Buffalo Trace.

This takes us to one of the most recent releases as the company decided to venture even further beyond its origins in Scotch to the other side of the pond. This tiny release of just 44 bottles of 1982 bourbon was at the peak of its perfection and while some believe that bourbon isn’t meant to be aged, The Last Drop felt differently (as do I, to be honest). Turns out many others agree. The bottles were sold out incredibly quickly – although they did spot a bottle on auction recently selling at $18,000, more than four times the original price. In a further fitting tribute, 1982 is the birth year of Beanie Espey, with the bottling of this product taking place the same year her first son was welcome into the world, as well.

As this piece draws to a close it’s worth my mentioning just how much I truly adore writing on topics like this – getting a glimpse into the historically rich universe of

The Last Drop has created something truly wonderful – a piece of history, emotion, wonder and above all else quality 124

CULTURE — wines

AO YUN 2014/2015 Ao Yun is a ground-breaking creation from the Yunnan province in China, located in a hidden paradise in known as Shangri-La. Translated as ‘roaming above the clouds’ its name pays homage to the elevation its vines grow at, (somewhere between 6,600 and 7,800 feet). The final blend sees 79% Cab Sauvignon married together with 21% Cabernet Franc.

Honestly, this is a true indication that China can produce outstanding wine and with LVMH backing this particular venture, you know for a fact it’s going to be stunning. Crushed ripe strawberries, candied cherry, soft yet dense tannins and a salty mineral finish. Woah! £238 from Elicite

What We’re Drinking WORDS:

Aidy Smith

As our drinks cabinets begin to dry up after a few too many well-deserved lockdown tipples, The Three Drinkers’ Aidy Smith takes a look at the most exciting drops to stock it back up with

TERMANTHIA 2010 When a wine is produced from ungrafted vines in Europe, that’s a pretty big deal. It’s a big deal because the bug which wiped out the vast majority of our vineyards (Phylloxera), didn’t manage to reach them and in Termanthia’s case, it’s because they’re literally in the middle of nowhere. Reaching remarkable ages of up to 120 years, these Spanish vines produce sensationally deep, rich and bold wines. The harshness of the sun makes for super concentrated grapes, resulting in an extremely complex and generous expression of Tinto de Toro. Stewed raspberries, blackberries and violets meet black pepper, toasted almonds and an incredible spicy vanilla finish. £200 from Clos 19

127

MARQUES DE MURIATA PRIMER ROSE 2017 Imagine the most beautiful rosé you’ve had from Provence, something along the lines of Domaine Ott? Well, say hello to the Spanish equivalent. Honestly, it doesn’t get much better than this. Strawberries, cream and raspberries erupt from the glass and with them, so much texture.

You’ll often hear me harp on about that word – but for whites and rosés, texture is key for me!

This is the wine I’ve been popping the cork on when the sun gleams outside (and when I want it to gleam inside, too). £35 from Selfridges

CULTURE — wines

THE THREE DRINKERS DISCOVERY CASE Drink wine while helping support the UK’s hospitality community. I teamed up with my co-presenters from The Three Drinkers TV series on Amazon Prime to hand-pick a case of six incredible wines. Two bottles each of Chardonnay, Syrah/Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon to take you on a tasting journey of the world. The best bit? A portion goes right back to those in need at The Drinks Trust and Hospitality Action. If you’re open to exploring something a little new and want to place your trust in my hands… get your glass ready and have a gander! £98 from Berkmann Wines

CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET LES CHENEVOTTES 1ER CRU 2014 White Burgundy is a truly wondrous thing and only two hectares of Premier Cru vineyards produce this absolutely stunning Chassagne-Montrachet. The vineyards, known as ‘Les Chenvottes’, sit right nextdoor to the world-famous terroir ‘Le Montrachet’, giving you an indication of the localised quality level.

Super fresh with peach, pear and apple, this beauty is well-structured, generous and incredibly textured. £70 from Blanco & Gomez Wine Merchants

128

CULTURE — spirits

REDBREAST W27 YEAR

BELUGA GOLD EDITION VODKA

Redbreast creates some of the most glorious Irish whiskies I’ve ever tasted and its 27-year sits atop the perch as its oldest core range bottle. With cask strength at 54.6%, it boasts a liquid that has matured in ruby port barrels from the heart of Douro Valley in Portugal.

An oasis of exotic fruits such as pineapple and mango create a superrich texture, bound by nectarines, cinnamon, vanilla and nutmeg.

Every time I pop the cork on one of these I feel like I’m sitting at the end of the rainbow. £450 from the Whisky Exchange

This beauty is not only limited in production but also undergoes limited distribution as well. Each bottle showcases a unique serial number for authentication and the wax seal on top brings aesthetics to a whole new level. Oh, it also comes with a hammer to break said seal. Talk about experiential. The liquid itself is the result of its trademark, secret malt spirit and water taken from the purest sources within Siberia before being filtered five times and left to rest for 90 days. There’s not much else to say other than my god is this a delicious, pure vodka. If you want to get all fancy, grab yourself some caviar too, darling. £120 from The Whisky Exchange

PANCHO DATOS REPOSADO TEQUILA

BEAUFORT GIN

Don’t you love it when people do something and do it really bloody well?

Enter Pancho Datos with its Reposado. We’re talking 100% Blue Weber Agave aged in American white oak barrels which had previously held mature bourbon whisky.

The result is an ultrasmooth sip-worthy tequila with a pure agave, vanillacaramel flavour. Perfect either by itself or enjoyed in the form of cocktail creativity such a Tequila Old Fashioned. £50 from Master of Malt

Here’s something a little bit different and for all the right reasons. Inspired by Heston Blumenthal, Beaufort Spirit has created a ‘whisky barrel’ smoked water as part of its Smoked Sipping Gin. Szechuan pepper, pink pepper and citrus oils combine once poured to give the illusion of gunpowder smouldering in the glass.

At 57% this gin certainly passes the ‘gunpowder’ test and has taken its place as the new ‘big smoke’ in town.

Definitely one to discover if you like sipping gins. £40 from Master of Malt

THE DALMORE KING ALEXANDER III For those who enjoy both grape and grain, The Dalmore has taken 180+ years of cask exploration and created the world’s first single malt from an assemblage of six different cask finishes. Initially matured in American white oak ex-bourbon casks, the liquid is shared between small batch ex-bourbon casks, Matusalem oloroso sherry casks, Madeira barrels, Marsala casks, Port pipes and Cabernet Sauvignon wine barriques before being married together once more in an in-situ sherry butt. Red berries and passion fruit meet citrus, vanilla, créme caramel and ginger. Without question a whisky you need to explore in your lifetime. £150 from The Whisky World

129

BACK — in focus

IN FOCUS AN INSIGHT INTO THREE FASCINATING BRANDS Edited By

SAM KESSLER

Andersmann, Wessex Watches and William Wood

131

BACK — in focus

132

BACK — in focus

ANDERSMANN Between their chunky cases, cool tool-watch look and knowledge that they are built to survive some of the most adverse conditions on Earth, it’s not hard to see why diving watches are everywhere, and why they have been ever since their heyday in the 1960s. Indeed, for many of us, our first watch was a diver of some description; it certainly was for Raymond Chan, founder of Hong Kong-based diving-watch specialist Andersmann.

Raymond’s first brush with horology was when his father gifted him a diver and ever since he had a fascination for underwater timekeeping. Yet he also saw what many of us regularly see: that a solid diver, particularly those that can achieve serious depth, can be prohibitively expensive.

And so like many a watch entrepreneur before him, Raymond set out to change things with Andersmann – a contraction of his Chinese name, Chan Wai Man and the name of his son, Anders, furthering the family’s hereditary watchcollecting story.

In 2014, Chan made his dream a reality by partnering with a Swiss manufacture and then, in 2015, releasing his first watch, the Andersmann Oceanmaster I 1,000m. The name says it all; this was a serious piece of diving equipment, with the classic, chunky look of a true underwater explorer with a nicely faceted, pointed bezel to help it stand out. What stood out more though was the price: the current crop of Oceanmaster I models will set you back just $1,180.

From there, Andersmann kept up the momentum with the Oceanmaster II that same year and a new addition to the collection each year since. The result is a broad range of divers from the more traditional looking, 60s-inspired numbers to DLC-coated pieces fit for military stealth dives.

The designs are nothing revolutionary in and of themselves, but they’re solid and functional in the extreme – all the way down to 3,000m in the case of the aptly-named Deep Ocean.

That’s just the cases of course; inside each is a Swiss-made ETA movement, the same quality of calibre that the world’s biggest dive watch brands use. The difference here is that it’s coming at a fraction of the price. Well, that’s what happens when you don’t spend millions on marketing budgets and let quality speak for itself.

The latest in Andersmann’s ever-growing line is, for us here at Oracle Time, the most interesting; we do have a certain love for bronze after all and the Bronze 1,000m is a lot of metal. Aside from the bright colouring of the case, the 4 o’clock crown, unusually-textured dials and incredibly cool retro styling make for a fantastic-looking

The 4 o’clock crown, unusually-textured dials and incredibly cool retro styling make for a fantasticlooking watch that’s matched by its specs sheet watch that’s matched by its specs sheet. For $1,888, there are very few divers out there to match it.

In Andersmann is the singularity of performance, price and style that makes a true diver worth the while of any collector. Forget prestige; if you want a diver that works in the face of extraordinary adversity and doesn’t break the bank, look no further than Andersmann. andersmann.com

133

BACK — in focus

134

BACK — in focus

WESSEX WATCHES If you’ve been using your time inside to binge-watch Vikings (or even the inferior Last Kingdom) you’ll know the name Wessex. It’s the ancient English kingdom that, as the name suggests, once held sway over most of the west country. It lasted a good long time, too, from the mid-500s to nearly the turn of the millennium in 927, when King Æthælstan united the rest of the county under Wessex.

If you’re wondering quite where this history lesson is going never fear; if you remember one thing, just know that it’s this important part of British history. Combined with the haute horology traditions of the continent, it is the inspiration behind the aptly-named Wessex watches.

It’s the favourite time-period of Jamie Boyd, history and horology buff, plus founder of said watchmaker, whose workshop also happens to be in the centre of what was once Wessex.

Jamie’s been an avid aficionado of fine watches since he was presented with a Seiko Seahorse at the age of five, imported (circumventing customs) by his Lancaster gunner and wireless operator father.

It’s a story we’ve heard time and again, but one that still resonates and for Jamie it spurred a lifelong love of watches.

That came to a head in 2015 when he decided to build his own custom timepiece. After assembling a few watches of his own in the past, Jamie decided he wanted to go one step further with a custom dial.

The problem was that, while cases and movements could be bought in at relatively decent prices, a custom dial was another matter entirely. And so he set about creating his own.

Flash forward to today and Wessex watches makes some of the finest (and among the only) dials in the UK. Originally the dials used the kind of old English motifs you’d expect from the name, along with the kind of intense forms of guilloche you’d normally see on the more classical pieces from Breguet, Vacheron and Roger Smith. More recently though, Jamie has made a departure from those typically two-dimensional engraved frescos of weaves and spirals in favour of the Wessex Peerless.

By name as by nature, the Peerless is a magnificent piece of craftsmanship. Made from two distinct layers, the dials have a striking, architectural feel, with the relatively unadorned top layer with clear, easy to read Roman numerals giving way to a phenomenally engraved under-dial. The result is a seriously impressive level of depth.

The Peerless being made to order, you can even choose what particular type of guilloche you’d prefer in both the main and the small seconds subdial.

Wessex Watches have been hand-made in the UK, to remarkably intricate specification, since 2015

Made from two distinct layers, the dials have a striking, architectural feel, giving way to a phenomenally engraved under-dial Prefer barleycorn or clous de Paris? No problem, for a little extra cost of course. Even then though, you can go further; just look at the Wessex Peerless Tsunami, with its beautiful rendition of the famous Great Wave off Kanagawa. It started at a one-off project and now doubles as a showcase for what Wessex watches can do.

All three in the Peerless collection – the Peerless, the Peerless Premium and the Tsunami – all come equipped with the ETA 6497-1 Élaboré Art Deco Skeleton hand-wound movement, a world apart from your usual stock movement. The skeletonised calibre is among the most stunning to emerge from ETA, definitely worth taking the time to look at – which is why, incidentally, the Peerless Premium is reversible.

Well, sometimes you just have to show off your watch geek side.

Wessex Watches is still a small, artisanal workshop and Jamie certainly doesn’t want to change that any time soon. Aside from the unscalable nature of these kind of hand-made dials, there’s a certain charm to something made in Britain, by a British craftsman, for you. That the watches are incredibly well-priced for their quality is almost just a side-note. wessexwatches.co.uk

135

BACK — in focus

136

BACK — in focus

WILLIAM WOOD Now, more than ever, I’m sure we all agree that the emergency services deserve any bit of recognition they get, whether that’s through charity drives or cheering for the NHS. Often overlooked however are the UK’s firefighters, who provide a lifesaving service in a very literal sense. It’s also a service that’s very much at the heart of William Wood watches in a real way.

William Wood the man was the grandfather of founding entrepreneur Jonny Garret, a decorated firefighter of 25 years. He’s a figure that earned the title of hero time and again; in 1966 he and three of his fellow firefighters saved five children between the ages of five and one from a severe house fire, earning the Certificate for Merit in the process.

It’s this incredible man – and the men and women that continue his legacy in the Newcastle & Gateshead Fire Brigade – that William Wood watches take inspiration from. In no watch is that more self-evident than the aptly-named Valiant.

An incredibly handsome diving watch, the Valiant eschews the usual nautical themes of an abyss-dwelling timekeeper in favour of details that recall the fire brigade. The chequered pattern that rings the dial is taken directly from British fire engines; the double index at 12 o’clock is actually a badge of rank and the second hand imitates the chime of a fire bell.

The most obvious allusion however isn’t on the watch itself, but the strap. Made from upcycled red, yellow or military fire hose, you can see the use and age of the repurposed material in the uneven, individual look of each. That last in black and white has been donated by the British Armed Forces Defence Fire & Rescue Unit, and makes for an intriguing final flourish to a great-looking watch – particularly the black dial, red bezel edition.

The Valiant is, interestingly enough, available with two different movements. You can opt for the value-for-money Seiko movement or, if you’re a Swiss purist, pay a little more for an ETA. Either way, it’s a lot of watch for the money – all the more so when you know that a portion of the profits for each goes to the Fire Fighters Charity.

On a more overtly charitable note, back at the beginning of last month, William Wood donated a customised Valiant to the Time for Heroes auction, the entire proceeds of which went to the Fire Fighters Charity. On 4 May, the hammer came

down on the watch at an impressive £2,250; it’s a fantastic follow-up to their help with Time + Tide’s Watch&Act auction in aid of Australia’s bushfire crisis, for which William Wood raised $4,800.

That all said, while the fire service undoubtedly deserves its share of the spotlight, the Valiant is in and of itself a great watch. Whether you want to support the cause or are simply after a unique diver with an interesting heritage, check it out. And it goes without saying that you 100 per cent must get it on the fire hose; there’s no strap quite like it. williamwoodwatches.com

Named for the founder’s heroic firefighter grandfather, William Wood watches donate a portion of all proceeds to related charities

The Valiant eschews the usual nautical themes in favour of details that recall the fire brigade 137

BACK — microbrand corner

Krayon

MICROBRAND

Anywhere

CORNER

Back in 2017 Krayon released its phenomenal Everywhere, a watch equipped with an astronomical complication that could tell you the sunrise and sunset anywhere on Earth; for 2020 it’s back in a sleeker, more accessible style with the Anywhere.

The name comes from the fact that the wearer can set the sunrise and sunset locations displayed on the dial to any single point on the Earth’s surface, like a solar-based GMT. It displays this in one of the most novel ways we’ve seen, via a day/night ring that constantly changes throughout the year.

Particularly handsome in the full blue version, this is serious watchmaking that deserves to be seen.

From avant-garde accessibility to niche haute horology, this is the latest and greatest from the creative world of microbrands

krayon.ch

THE SPECS

• 39mm case in steel, rose gold or white gold, water resistant to 30m • Cal. C030 manual-wind movement with 86-hour power reserve • CHF 96,000 in Steel, CHF 116,000 in Gold, krayon.ch

139

BACK — microbrand corner

THE SPECS

• 40mm stainless steel case water resistant to 100m • Sellita SW300 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £2,100, ecandersson.com

E.C. Andersson Göta-Lejon Kontra-Gauss GMT

The latest and most in-house watch from Swedish brand E.C. Andersson, the Göta-Lejon Kontra-Gauss GMT is designed as a handsome traveller’s watch but built like a true explorer.

Thanks to its Kontra-Gauss shielding, the watch can withstand incredible magnetic forces without any adverse effects.

Viqueria

That’s not the only futuristic touch either, as a good part of the case is made from 3Dprinted stainless steel, which is able to create finer, lighter structures than standard milling.

Finished with a shimmering blue dial and a GMT complication and you have a seriously solid yet surprisingly comfortable timepiece that balances good looks and practicality.

Somehow, without compromise. ecandersson.com

THE SPECS

• €275 (€165 Early Bird), viqueriawatches.com

Levante

Having previously sold out the previous edition of the Levante in two weeks, Italian Brand Viqueria’s follow-up is here and it’s better than ever. Well, almost; the Kickstarter campaign has now launched and its one that deserves a good amount of interest.

The tachymeter-equipped bi-compax racing chronograph is a solid 42mm of stainless steel. It’s powered by a Seiko Mecha-Q movement, a hybrid number from the Japanese watchmaking superstars, and available in four distinct dial variations.

Of those variations one in particular stands out. The meteorite’s cool of course, as are the classic silver and black and racing green versions. The two-tone cobalt and silver ‘Braveheart’ though is phenomenal, particularly with the striking red accents. viqueriawatches.com

140

BACK — microbrand corner

THE SPECS

• $500, reveriewatches.com

Reverie Atlantis

The Miyota movement, in deference to its Japanese roots, has been given a makeover with a rotor engraved with a traditional ‘Seigaiha’ pattern

Most accessible divers opt for functionality above everything else, which leads to some pretty one-dimensional watches. Not so Reverie’s latest marine timepiece, the aptly-named Atlantis. As well as the beautiful dials in blue, silver and a stunning olive green, the guilloche is at a level you don’t often see at this price level.

The same goes for the Miyota movement which, in deference to its Japanese roots has been given a makeover with a rotor engraved with a traditional ‘Seigaiha’ pattern. Combined with the 40mm stainless steel case, the Reverie Diver is a more detailed, delicate approach to a practical tool watch – which, with 200m water resistance it still very much is. reveriewatches.com

141

BACK — microbrand corner

THE SPECS

• CHF 3,950, ming.watch

Ming 27.01

In many ways the archetypal microbrand, every Ming launch seems to get collectors hot under the collar like not much else can.

It’s the thinnest Ming watch to date but retains the same overall case shape and lovely sculpted lugs. At 38mm wide and just 6.9mm thick, the stainless steel case is diminutive to say the least, but the bold, graphical nature of the dial works perfectly with the smaller size.

At the centre of it is an ETA 7001

movement, but not like you’ve seen one before. The entire calibre has been reworked into something more striking than the dial side.

The plates and bridges are all black, helping the moving parts stand out in relief. Mechanically it’s no different; visually its incredible.

The Ming 27.01 isn’t limited per se, but it is built in batches – the first of which, comprised of 125 watches, is completely sold out.

Still, get your name down early and it’ll be worth the wait. It’s a lot of watch for CHF 3,950. ming.watch

142

The bold, graphical nature of the dial works perfectly with the smaller size

END — moviewatch

WE’VE BEEN EXPECTING YOU

The Seiko SKX007 appears in a fittingly Bond-esque scene in Devs

M OVIE WATC H

Seiko SKX007 in Devs Between the cerebral contemplation of humanity that is Ex Machina to the haunting beauty and objectively terrifying chimeric bear of Annihilation, Alex Garland’s blend of creepy sci-fi and philosophical ponderings make for an unforgettable filmic experience. It was only a matter of time before he brought his unique style to the small screen.

Devs is… hard to define. Like Garland’s previous work, its sci-fi premise is just background noise for the main beats of an ever-expanding, ever-more esoteric mystery, where the atmosphere is as much of a cast member as Nick Offerman. That said, we’d watch it for Nick Offerman alone. We’d watch anything for Nick Offerman alone.

Without spoiling anything of the show’s David Lynchian meanderings by going beyond the first episode, the story follows software engineer Lily as she tries to find out what happened to her boyfriend Sergei. Sergei had recently started a new job in the secretive ‘Devs’ division of tech firm Amaya, overseen by Offerman’s Forest. Discussions about code and determinism abound.

It’s almost a surprise to see a recognisable watch in the first episode, but the modern cult classic that is the Seiko SKX007 is impossible to miss, given that it fills the screen for a good amount of air time and has a pivotal role in the story. Fittingly for a reference with 007 in it, the Prospex is put to a Bond-esque use that suits it to a tee. It’s an incredibly cool watch, put to an incredibly cool use. We love it.

Still, it’s an odd choice given that the diver itself is discontinued and we’d love to know how it got into the costume design. That is to say, whose watch it actually is. Either way, it’s just another off-kilter flourish in a show that revels in them.

Between its mind-bending slow-burn plot and atmosphere more intoxicating than a bottle of Lagavulin’s Offerman Edition (because of course it’s a thing), Devs is a cut above whatever else you’re binging in lockdown. Watch it on BBC iPlayer ASAP. We’d recommend Netflix’s Annihilation, too, but that bear… that damn bear. seikowatches.com

144