WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E
THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS
ISSUE .65
Keeping it Green
IWC The Sustainability Issue WATCHES FOR GOOD | ELECTRIC CARS | LONG-LASTING STYLE
ISSUE 65
5.95
£
ORACLE TIME #65
WELCOME Editor’s letter
COVER CREDITS Photography: Fraser Vincent Watch: IWC Portugieser iwc.com
The world has been a scary place over the first few months. I won’t go into details; you know what I’m talking about. Sorry, the many things I’m talking about. But as we gradually climb our way out of lockdown – and as I write this ready to head out to the year’s only watch event in Geneva – there is some light at the end of the tunnel. Restaurants are re-opening (as Nick Savage will tell you on page 93), shopping centres are once again worryingly packed and, unfortunately, pollution is coming back like it went out of style. That last point is yet another thing to worry about and why, this issue, we’re going green. Sure, in this month’s watch shoot we’ve taken that literally, with a selection of the coolest, forest-tinted timepieces around; but there’s a serious slant towards sustainability too. In fact, our cover star may be one of the biggest watch brands in the world, but from day one it’s been among the most sustainable businesses in the world – more on that on page 40. They’re not the only ones. With new charity watches popping up every year for a surprising variety of good causes, James Buttery looks at the pieces and partnerships working best for their causes on page 85 If they produce some good-looking watches (the Blancpain Mokarran for example) all the better. Sustainability doesn’t just mean keeping production methods green however; longevity plays a big part in that too, especially in this era of planned obsolescence and disposable everything. On page 68, Nick Carvell delves deep into some of the brands that are ensuring their clothes stand the test of time in more ways than one – as well as highlighting on page 75 those that’ll keep you looking your best without a trace of guilt. The same goes for Domaine des Prés Lasses who, despite producing some truly senstational vintages, do so in an all-natural, environmentally-friendly and downright fuzzy-feeling way. Find out precisely how on page 97 – and which bottle in particular you should have in your cellar. Now that lockdown’s lifting (for the moment, quarantines providing) you’ll be wanting to get out and enjoy a little bit of travel. We’re not stopping you; we’re just not necessarily condoning air travel, particularly when, as Lewis Nunn points out on page 104, travelling by rail is the ultimate luxury. It’s not bad for the environment, either. In the meantime, I’ll be risking a flight myself to head over to the world’s only watch event this year. With quarantines looming, I might not make it back, but news of some incredibly cutting-edge watches certainly will. Stay tuned at oracleoftime.com to make sure you don’t miss them. And above all else, stay safe and stay sane. Sam Kessler, Editor
KEEP IN TOUCH: instagram.com/otmagazine | @oracle_time | facebook.com/oracleoftime | oracleoftime.com
1
ORACLE TIME #65
CONTRIBUTORS
WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE
Nick Carvell
A lifelong fan of double denim (even triple on occasion), Nick started his career as Social Media Editor of mrporter.com before working as Associate Style Editor at British GQ then Editor of The Jackal. He is now a freelance menswear editor, writing from lockdown at his kitchen table in South London.
Lewis Nunn Often dubbed the real-life Patsy Stone, Lewis is an editor and travel journalist writing about luxury travel and cruise holidays for all leading Fleet Street newspapers. He knows how to travel in style – preferably with a glass of Bolly in-hand.
James Buttery
lives and breathes watches, editing watch industry bible WatchPro before moving to QP magazine. He has been called on to comment on watches and the industry by the BBC, CNN and the International New York Times among others.
EDITOR
Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR
Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk SUB EDITOR
Alex Briand alexbriand4@gmail.com DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER
Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER
Fraser Vincent JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER
Kirsty Illingworth
Adam HayNicholls
specialises in Formula 1, expensive cars and luxury travel, and contributes to GQ, the Sunday Telegraph, City A.M. and Metro. Among his many international adventures, he’s raced McLarens in the Arctic Circle, been a chauffeur in Las Vegas and flown non-stop around the world by private jet.
kirsty@opulentmedia.co.uk DIRECTORS
Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk
Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING
Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4615
Nick Savage
Nick will try any dish once, whether it’s tarantula stew in Cambodia, muskox Thai green curry in Greenland or mopane worms in Zimbabwe. As a food and travel journalist, he has travelled the world, but his favourite place to eat will always be London.
George Parker george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4616 ACCOUNT MANAGER
Themba Wirz themba@opulentmedia.co.uk 0208 057 1140 OT MAGAZINE is published monthly by Opulent Media 020 7871 4615
Jake Scatchard
Growing up in a horological household, Jake’s been privileged to see history’s finest timepieces spill over the dining room table. Working with his father, Jonathan (founder of Vintage Heuer), he has a passion for the timeless sports watches of the ‘60s and ‘70s – and not just Heuers, at that.
Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources
2
ORACLE TIME #65
CONTENTS
1
O T M A G A ZIN E / I S S U E 65
40 — IWC
18 — AFICIONADO
We reveal what’s on our radar and what should be on your shopping list this month
26 — NEWS
A round-up of the latest happenings in luxury living and, of course, the best in horology
34 — FACETIME
Watch collections of the rich and famous – this issue it’s Leonardo DiCaprio
36 — THE ORACLE SPEAKS A beginner’s guide to sustainable straps
How the Schaffhausen watchmaker was embracing sustainability before it was cool
“A mechanical watch is an emotional purchase... We want everything that goes into our watches to honour this” IWC — p40
15
ORACLE TIME #65
CONTENTS
2
46 — WATCH REVIEWS Our take on models from IWC and Vertex
54 — GREEN SHOOT
The world’s most beautiful green timepieces are ready for their closeup
66 — SUSTAINABLE STYLE The brands looking at squeaky-clean morals in fashion at every stage
75 — STYLE EDIT Eight brands from which to build your guilt-free wardrobe
118
85 — CHARITY WATCHES
The watchmakers giving back through sales and sponsorships
118 — ELECTRIC VEHICLES
The future is combustionfree, and electric vehicles are hitting their stride
126 — VINTAGE A forgotten classic from Breitling 85
66
128 — AUCTION WATCH
CULTURE
What’s under the hammer this month
“Hop on board at London Victoria Station along with crates of Champagne, caviar and freshly caught lobster”
97
93 97 104
Food Drink Travel
____________________________________
The World’s Best Train Journeys — p104
________________________________ ____________________________
104
16
131 — IN FOCUS
A closer look at three brands: Marnaut, Bespoke Watch Projects and Michel Herbelin
139 – MICROBRAND CORNER What’s new in the world of the small-scale?
144 – MOVIE WATCH The third special-edition timepiece for the Kingsman franchise – and possibly its best so far
FRONT — aficionado
aficionado The coolest things in the world right now
18
© Sun Lee
FRONT — aficionado
ONE MAN’S TRASH…
We’re not the only ones with sustainability on the mind and, while we tend to deal in respectable timepieces, this one from cutting-edge designer (and Aficionado regular) Vollebak is pure garbage. Made from tech industry throwaways, the quartz-powered watch is a sight to behold, with an electrical cable strap, colourful movement parts and a series of off-centre, haphazard crowns. Still in the prototype stage – and therefore without a price at the moment, it may be trash but it’ll doubtless be a collectible. Waiting list now open, vollebak.com
19
FRONT — aficionado
DRINK AND DRIVE
Whisky perhaps isn’t the most sensible of partnerships for a carmaker but that hasn’t stopped the esteemed Aston Martin. Islay Single Malt distiller Bowmore has pulled out all the stops in the collaborative Black Bowmore DB5. Inside the DB5-inspired, handcrafted decanter is the legendary Black Bowmore 1964, already one of the most sought-after whiskies around – think passion fruit, coffee and plenty of smoke. £50,000, bowmore.com
20
FRONT — aficionado
EXPLOSIVE SPEED
Ever wondered what it’s like to ride a hydrogen bomb? Unless you’re Dr. Strangelove’s Major Kong (been there, done that) you may be in luck with Hyperion’s insane new XP-1. The hydrogenpowered supercar has an incredibly practical range of 1,000 miles and an incredibly impractical 0-60 sprint of 2.2 seconds. Stop worrying and learn to love the speed. Price TBC, hyperion.inc
21
FRONT — aficionado
RACING RED
If you’re looking for a holdall just about as suave as a vintage Alpha Romeo, look no further than this Racing Red number from Jordan Bespoke. Created as an homage to the 110th anniversary of the quintessentially Italian marque, the grand touring duffle is made from smooth Italian leather and hides a rare photo of Juan Manuel Fangio driving his Alfa Romeo 158 to victory at the 1950 Monaco Grand Prix (which, incidentally, is celebrating its 70th anniversary). £795, jordanbespoke.com
22
FRONT — aficionado
SPACE-SAVING SOUND
With another lockdown a worrying likelihood, space is at a premium – as is great sound quality. The latest from British audio specialist Ruark combines both in the R3. Aside from an incredibly handsome design, the all-in-one system supports wireless streaming and radio through a slick, retro control at the top and a design to match. It also happens to punch well above its weight, sound-wise. £629, ruarkaudio.com
23
FRONT — aficionado
AN ELECTRIFYING CLASSIC
After working with classics from Jaguar and Bentley, EV conversion specialist Lunaz is turning its attention to Rolls-Royce – and the results promise to be stunning. The first car newly out of the factory is a 1961 Rolls-Royce Phantom V, now with a fully electric powertrain and hardware and software upgrades across the board. With zero emissions, the only downside is there are only 30 slots available. From £350,000, lunaz.design
24
FRONT — aficionado
LEICA’S PINNACLE RANGEFINDER
The M10 collection is pure Leica, with its old-school design, solid, die-cast magnesium body and overt lack of autofocus. The latest however is a cut above with an insane 40.89-megapixel full-frame sensor, an ISO range of 100 to 50,000 and enhanced low-light photography. In short, it has everything that Leica’s signature range is known for, pushed to the extreme. It might even be too good for Instagram. £7,100, uk.leica-camera.com
IN THE CLEAR
Tech giant Xiaomi is making a transparent attempt to derail Samsung as the world’s leading screen-based innovator with its latest, the 55-inch Mi TV LUX Transparent Edition. The mass-produced, see-through TV looks like nothing more than a sheet of glass, despite housing a full OLED display. Is it an impressive technical showcase? Yes. Is it utterly pointless? Also yes. But we can’t help but love it, all the same. RMB 49,999 (approx. £5,500), mi.com
25
EDITED BY SAM KESSLER
WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD
NEWS •
NIGO X LOUIS VUITTON Streetwear gets chic in a big way in Louis Vuitton’s latest campaign in collaboration with cutting-edge designer Nigo. Dubbed LV2, the capsule collection with the Bathing Ape creative includes ready-to-wear leather goods and luggage and explores the design codes of the French maison in variety of new, savvy ways. The collab goes both ways too, with LV offering a makeover of Nigo’s signature duck from his Human Made label. Our favourite however has to be the Keepall (£1,920), which replaces the standard monogrammed pattern of the house with alternative squares of chainmail-printed leather and LV signature trim dripping from the handles. Discover the full collection at uk.louisvuitton.com
Streetwear gets chic in a big way in Louis Vuitton’s latest campaign 26
‘PERPETUAL MUSIC’ FROM ROLEX At the time of writing, Rolex has been relatively quiet throughout lockdown and we don’t blame them; it’s not the best time to be showcasing a new collection. Yet that’s nothing compared to what musicians must be feeling right now, which is why Rolex has introduced ‘Perpetual Music’, a series of concerts live streamed across the world early this month. Even if you miss them (the last is happening on 3 September), the streams will remain on hosting platform Medici TV until October so if you need a dose of spectacular classical sounds, check it out. medici.tv
FRONT — world news
PRECISION-TIMED AUDIO NAD understands the importance of timing; the self-clocking amplification tech of its newest M33 model shows that well enough. It’s what delivers the kind of superlative soundstage and acoustic realism that NAD’s amplifiers are known for. To hammer the point home, NAD has enlisted the help of Canadian watchmaker Birchall & Taylor in its latest campaign. The partnership emphasises the precision, skill and attention to detail required of both an amp and a fine timepieces, not to mention the technical excellence of the M33 itself. Find out more at nadelectronics.com
NEW ON THE READING LIST We already knew we had a good writing team, but it looks like not one but two of Oracle Time’s regular contributors have books coming out this month. Go us!
AUDIO RESEARCH: MAKING THE MUSIC GLOW
First we have a coffee-table deep-dive into the history of American luminaries of valvebased sound, Audio Research, by our very own Ken Kessler, created for the brand’s 50th anniversary. Expect an encyclopaedic history wrapped around anecdotes from leading lights of high-end audio, and some truly spectacular imagery. If you’ve ever wondered why Audio Research holds such an intimate place in every music-lover’s heart, read this book. £125, absolutesounds.com
Expect an encyclopaedic history wrapped around anecdotes from leading lights of highend audio, and some truly spectacular imagery SMOKE & MIRRORS
Car photography is usually glossy, superficial and designed to sell a lifestyle. Smoke & Mirrors, published by Hoxton Mini Press x Penguin Books, goes the other way; iconoclastic, abstract, often mysterious photographs from the road, shot by renowned artists including Andreas Gursky, Gerd Ludwig, Todd Hido and Nicolai Howalt. From hypercars to battle trucks, the automobiles here are playful, introspective and meaningful. As author (and OT contributor) Adam Hay-Nicholls writes: “At their best, and occasionally their worst, cars have layers of cultural meaning which can be read like a book.” This one is a good place to start. Buy now at amazon.co.uk
27
FRONT — world news
NEW CAR SMELL Rid yourself of thoughts of petrol, leather or the smell of a garage; Bentley has been making some seriously luxurious fragrances for years now, the latest of which is Silverlake. Inspired by the great outdoors and housed in a typically lovely flacon, it’s as fresh and invigorating as a top-down mountain drive. £69.50 for 100ml, bentleymotors.com Fragrance Notes Top: lemon sfuma essence, peppermint Heart: lavender, pink pepper, violet leaf Base: amber woods, musk
The ever-spectacular Courmayeur resort has overhauled its epic Skyway Monte Bianco with sustainability at the core
SUSTAINABLE SKIING AT COURMAYEUR Sure it might be a while before we all get back to the slopes, but once we do it’s worth noting that one piste in particular will be opening with longevity in mind. The ever-spectacular Courmayeur resort has overhauled its epic Skyway Monte Bianco with sustainability at the core, allowing unsurpassed, panoramic views of Valle d’Aosta, Cervino, Gran Paradiso, Monte Ros and Combin without disrupting the natural environment. The Skyway will also be the basis for a research project into preserving the legendary Mont Blanc glacier, a necessity in these uncertain times. If you do take a ride, don’t be afraid to turn back when you reach the top; the 3,400-metre Punta Helbronner station’s extreme off-piste skiing is not for the faint-hearted. courmayeur-montblanc.com
28
FRONT — world news
TRACKSIDE LIVING AT SILVERSTONE Ever wished that you could wake up every morning, open your curtains and be greeted by the screeching of tyres, the smell of petrol and the sight of blurred racers eking every second out of their cars? Then you my friend are who Escapade Living’s new trackside residences are designed for. Set alongside the legendary Silverstone track, the new residences are a brief roll from the hallowed tarmac and offer the kind of views dedicated petrolheads dream of. The two-, three- and four-bedroom apartments also come with access to a central clubhouse with simulators, a restaurant, bar and driver-focused gym. The residences will be ready to move in by May 2022. Get your engines ready… £650,000-£1,650,000, escapadeliving.com
Set alongside the legendary Silverstone track, the new residences are a brief roll from the hallowed tarmac
GUESS T H E WATCH DID YOU GET LAST ISSUE’S WATCH? With their signature, cockpit-inspired square cases, BELL & ROSS watches are instantly recognisable, even with just a silhouette. Still, the more smoothed edges and Genta-esque design of the BR-05 is a little trickier. A little.
This time we have a similarly Gentainspired timepiece but from the opposite direction. In fact, when the watch launched it got a little flak not for what it was, but for what it was not. And yes, there’s a reason we’re showing it from the side this time. If you can guess the watch, you’ll understand why.
what is the
WATCH
What is the watch? CHECK BACK NEXT ISSUE FOR THE ANSWER
29
?
FRONT — world news
SALON PRIVÉ RETURNS Over the past few months its felt like summer – with most of our social lives – had been cancelled, with lockdown emptying the British events calendar like a rainstorm at the races. Proving that it’s not for good however, pinnacle concours Salon Privé will be making a return on 26-28 September to make all your automotive dreams come true. As of writing, 23 brands will be exhibiting, showcasing 50+ models between them. In that number you can include three world premieres and over 15 new model debuts, ensuring that this is the car event for car lovers of a certain status. Need proof? Here are just three of the highlights visitors will be able to get up close and personal with:
As of writing, 23 brands will be exhibiting, showcasing 50+ models between them
FERRARI ROMA
KOENIGSEGG GEMERA
Ferrari will be showcasing its latest models during Salon Privé Week. The allnew Ferrari Roma continues a long tradition of sublime GT cars from Maranello and features a front-mid-mounted turbocharged V8 engine giving more than 600bhp. The Ferrari Roma’s timeless design is combined with its unparalleled performance and handling.
The world’s first ‘mega GT’ Koenigsegg is set to star at Salon Privé with the groundbreaking new Gemera. Its name is derived from the Swedish words for ‘give more’ and is engineered to provide megacar performance but with a spacious interior and next-generation environmental technology.
ZENVO TSR-S
The flagship TSR-S model from Danish hypercar manufacturer Zenvo utilises a lightweight carbon-fibre body produced in-house, a 1,177bhp twin-supercharged flat-plane V8 and classleading aerodynamics including Zenvo’s patented centripedal rear wing which reacts to steering inputs to create high levels of downforce while cornering.
A 1963 Aston Marton DB5 will be on show at the Salon Privé this month
The main event will of course be the Concours itself and, this year looks to be a seriously competitive run. Between a spectacular 1933 Lancia Astura Bocca, a 1934 Hispano Suiza J12 Vanvooren Cabriolet and a superb 1966 Ford GT 40 Mk 1 Prototype / 1034, it’s anyone’s race. Because driving is a lifestyle, these petrolhead giants will be accompanied by a number of other luxury brands, ranging from motorbikes and helicopters to jewellery. Looking for a boat to match your Bugatti? Salon Privé has you covered – in a safe and socially-distanced way, obviously. Tickets from £295, available at salonpriveconcours.com All tickets are protected in case of cancellation
30
FRONT — introducing
NEWS
IN DETAIL • 42mm platinum-gold
case with 300m water resistance • Omega calibre 8807 automatic movement with 55-hour power reserve • £41,740 GBP, omegawatches.com
INTRO DUCING
OMEGA
Seamaster Diver 300M “James Bond” Platinum-Gold Numbered Edition
It doesn’t feel like too long ago that we were talking about the Bond watch for the 25th instalment of the franchise – the cool, military-slanted Seamaster 300m 007 Edition. But now that No Time to Die finally has a release date of, fingers crossed, 12 November, Omega has revealed its actual tie-in limited edition, the Seamaster Diver 300m James Bond Numbered Edition.
31
FRONT — introducing
FERDINAND BERTHOUD Chronomètre FB 2RE
Dedicated horologist Ferdinand Berthoud is both cleaning up the output of its mainspring with the Fusée-and-Chain and then refining the power supply coming into the escapement at the other end of the gear train further by using the remontoire – belt and braces. The new Chronomètre is a serious tour de force of haute horology.
IN DETAIL • 44mm white gold or rose gold case with 30m water resistance • Calibre FB-RE.FC manual-wind movement with 50-hour power reserve • CHF 210,000, limited to 10 pieces each in white gold and rose gold, ferdinandberthoud.ch
GREUBEL FORSEY Balancier S
Until late last year the studious, academic output of watchmaker Greubel Forsey wouldn’t have been high on anyone’s list of sporty watches. But then the brand dropped the GMT Sport and confounded those of us who thought we had it pegged. Now a similar design returns with the shiny new S designation.
IN DETAIL
45mm titanium case with 100m water resistance • In-house manual-wind calibre with 72-hour power reserve • CHF 195,000, limited to 18 pieces, greubelforsey.com •
The brand dropped the GMT Sport and confounded those of us who thought we had it pegged
32
FRONT — introducing
FORTIS FLIEGER F-43 Bicompax
Fortis has some serious aeronautical chops; you might not realise it, but it’s the official watchmaker for the Roscosmos, essentially making it the Omega of the Russian Space Agency. For now though, it’s keeping things within the stratosphere for its latest aviation timepiece, the Flieger F-43 Bicompax Chronograph.
It’s the official watchmaker for the Roscosmos, essentially making it the Omega of the Russian Space Agency
IN DETAIL
• 43mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Fortis UW-51 calibre automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve • From €3,300, fortis-swiss.com
IN DETAIL • 42.5mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • ETA Calibre 2824-2 automatic COSC-certified movement with 38-hour power reserve • From £2,350, doxawatches.com
DOXA
300 SUB COSC
Doxa’s SUB 300 is one of the cult classic 60s divers, made famous by Cousteau and crew and an enduring classic to this day – this day being the day that the Neuchatel-based dive specialist reissues the famous watch with the new SUB 300 COSC. Only now is the latest SUB 300 available in all six Doxa colours, but it’s now a permanent, much-needed addition to the core collection.
33
FRONT — facetime
NO.
FA C E T I M E
65
The watch collections of the rich and famous revealed
ON THE ONE HAND he’s one of the biggest, most bankable movie stars in the world, from doomed teenage lover to retconned Manson cult exterminator. On the other, he’s been using that profile and wealth to be the change he wants to see in the world with the eponymous Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation – a charity dedicated to, as they put it, “Supporting projects around the world that build climate resiliency, protect vulnerable wildlife, and restore balance to threatened ecosystems and communities.” If that isn’t a bit of feel-goodness among the misery of the modern world, what is? Of course, between saving the oceans, saving the rainforests and saving the occasional screenplay, DiCaprio does spend plenty of cash on himself, too. Well, he deserves it, especially when his horological taste is this good. Let’s start with one of the earlier brands he’s been spotted wearing, Jaeger-LeCoultre. Having hosted a few of their charity auctions way back when, it’s no surprise that he’s a fan. Rather than a classic Reverso though, he’s been seen donning their more contemporary output, including the Master Compressor Extreme and the Master Control Minute Repeater. Speaking of auctions, he might not have worked with them on an environmental front, but back in 2016 he auctioned off his own, diamond-set 18kt white gold Daytona with an engraving on the back reading: ‘Best, Leo.’ Don’t worry though, he kept one, too – and of course it’s another Cosmograph Daytona. You can’t be a big screen mega-star without one. On screen it’s no surprise that he’s a fan of TAG Heuer; he’s been one of the Swiss watchmaker’s global ambassadors for years, and wore their watches on and off the set, donning most recently a gold Professional 1,000 Series in Wolf of Wall Street and a modern Carrera in Inception. If only Nolan had starting commissioning bespoke watches back then. That said, TAG Heuer’s not alone; Leo’s been seen in both a Breitling Avenger in Blood Diamond (he was running through a warzone, we can forgive him there) and in last year’s Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, he opted for a classy Chopard dress watch. Well, Tarantino did; I doubt you can argue with that guy.
Leonardo DiCaprio The actor-vist
DiCaprio’s Chopard dress watch from Once Upon a Time in Hollywood
34
FRONT — ask the oracle
THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained
1 [JEAN ROUSSEAU VEGETABLE TANNED CALF STRAP, £95]
[Sustainable Straps]
Like the fashion industry before it, the watch world is waking up to the fact that not all straps are, shall we say, 100-per-cent ethical. Aside from the usual problems with fine leather and the waste by-products of tanning, you’ll occasionally see a watch on some exotic animal skin that’d have Greenpeace up in arms – and they often look awful, too. Then there are the non-leathers that aren’t all that much better. After all, rubber isn’t the most sustainable of products and the amount of waste that comes from the milling and machining of a metal bracelet can be just as bad, no matter how carefully the maker tries. Then there’s the factories that pump out strap after strap using sweatshop-style cheap labour. Every problem fashion has, watch straps have, too. Think of it like you would a fine bag; the end result may look the part, suit your watch perfectly and sit comfortably on the wrist, but does it sit as comfortably on the conscience? The more you look into it, you more you might think that it does not. Now I’m not saying that everyone should tie their vintage Rolex on with an old bit of hemp rope, but as we wake up to the environmental issues surrounding straps, it’s worth taking a look at the possible alternatives – particularly if they look this damn good.
36
The French artisans at Jean Rousseau make some incredibly handsome, often brightly coloured numbers in plenty of different exotic (though non-endangered) skins. By contrast this soft, subtle calfskin strap is relatively run-of-the-mill, except for one thing: vegetable tanning. Essentially, it’s a way of tanning leather using all-natural products, eschewing the harsh chemicals that can leech into the ground in most tanning factories. The result is something that’ll suit any gold dress watch to a tee, but safe in the knowledge that it’s about as sustainable as leather can be. jean-rousseau.com
2 [SUEDE STRAP VINTAGE OCEAN BLUE, €39 ]
Similar to the Jean-Rousseau version, this lovely suede strap from Watch Bandit is all natural, using non-harmful tanning products to get the right finish. And what a finish it is; the Vera Pelle leather not only has that tactile lustre that suede’s known for, but the colour is magnificent. If you’re wearing anything remotely nautical, there’s not much better. Better yet, it’ll also last. In fact, treat it well and it’ll age as well as your watch, gaining a nice patina over time. It means that, aside from the natural tanning employed, this is a strap that’ll last a lifetime and there’s not much more sustainable than that. watchbandit.com
FRONT — ask the oracle
2
1
3 [VOTCH PIÑATEX STRAP, £30]
If you want to cut out leather entirely then simply making it sustainable won’t do; you need an alternative. Well, look no further than this novel strap from vegan strap specialist Votch. Rather than the usual plasticky faux leathers, Piñatex is made from pineapple leaf fibres, a by-product of the fruit farming process. Even if you didn’t know that, this is still a good-looking, intensely masculine black strap, complete with a blacked-out buckle ready for a stealthy, under-the-radar kind of watch. The only downside is that, being a natural material, you need to take care of it – so no diving! votch.co.uk
3
37
FRONT — ask the oracle
5 [GECKOTA GREENWOOD MKII DEPLOYMENT STRAP, £58]
If you really want to hammer home the hipster vegan vibes, then look no further than this striking, rusticlooking strap from online retailer WatchGecko. Made of 100-per-cent cork (other than the stainless steel deployment clasp, obviously) it’s naturally waterproof and lightweight. As cork’s not the nicest material against the skin, it’s also lined with soft Vegan-friendly PU leather to sit comfortably against the wrist. Available in either bamboo or agave cork, my vote’s for the latter, with a slightly lighter colour and more regular grain. Either way, these aren’t straps for anyone that wants to fit in. Still, at least if anyone asks you can tell them that you’re saving the world, one strap at a time. watchgecko.com
44
4 [OUTERKNOWN ECONYL® YARN NATO STRAP, £140]
Don’t worry, there is a purely environmentally friendly alternative to your usual rubber diving strap, too. In fact, each strap you buy from sustainably focused surfing brand Outerknown – via watchmaker Breitling – helps clean the oceans. That’s because the innovative Econyl® Yarn is created from nylon waste recovered from fishing nets and other detritus found in the sea. The result is a strap that’s not only naturally at home in the water, but also comes in a variety of bright colours perfect for a funky, retro diver. My pick of the bunch is this unmissable orange and yellow piece, though there are more subtle pieces if you can’t handle the brightness. breitling.com
5
38
FRONT — IWC
WORDS: SAM KESSLER
ECO-CONSCIOUS
IWC
40
FRONT — IWC
THE SCHAFFHAUSEN WATCHMAKER HAS AIMED FOR SUSTAINABILITY SINCE ITS FOUNDATION, AND NOW IT’S LEADING THE WATCH WORLD TO A GREENER FUTURE
41
FRONT — IWC
IWC’s headquarters in Schaffhausen
Of all the industries in the world, watchmaking isn’t exactly the most harmful to the environment. Sure, there’s plenty of industrialisation involved, a lot of cutting-edge materials ranging from gold to silicon that are a long way from natural, but I can pretty much guarantee that you didn’t think about the carbon footprint last time you bought a watch. And I’m not saying you should. I didn’t, and I wouldn’t expect anyone to. Perhaps though we might be doing so a lot more in the future. Sustainability is becoming as big a buzzword as in-house in the current climate, with many a
“An early and persistent misconception has been that pursuing sustainability must mean a compromise in quality and luxury” 42
horologist showing off their green credentials. Even then though, most are a long, long way behind IWC Schaffhausen – who happened to have a pretty substantial head start. “IWC was founded by an American watchmaker, Florentine Ariosto Jones, back in 1868,” says Franziska Gsell, Chief Marketing Officer for the watchmaker. “The reason that he picked Schaffhausen was for the hydro power meaning that sustainability and the environment have been at our core since day one.” Indeed, where most watchmakers have had to find ways to shift towards sustainability, IWC never really left it. Which is a good thing too; if there’s one thing the Swiss watch world knows about, it’s longevity. A fine timepiece is meant to last a lifetime and as Franziska says, “Some of our watches are still keeping time after 150 years!” That’s sure to give you a unique perspective on building for the future. It’s not always been easy, of course. “An early and persistent misconception has been that pursuing sustainability must mean a compromise in quality and luxury,” recalls Franziska. “We’re happy to demonstrate that this isn’t true – for example, our recycled gold is indistinguishable from mined gold, except for the story behind it.”
FRONT — IWC
43
FRONT — IWC
IWC’s founder wanted the factory to be powered by hydroelectricity from the Rhine. For this reason it’s the only Swiss watchmaker in the east of Switzerland
44
FRONT — IWC
Indeed, gold and jewels are often under fire for the way they’re mined and where. Ensuring that all precious metals are vetted by the Responsible Jewellery Council should be a prerequisite for any watchmaker. Unfortunately, it’s not, and IWC are amongst a worryingly small number that make it a priority – and not just precious materials either. “Our supplier of steel has been instrumental in creating ResponsibleSteel, which functions in a similar way to the RJC.” If this all sounds too good to be true, it really shouldn’t. Whether you recycle every scrap of waste you produce or enjoy burning bags for life, the simple fact is that there is no good reason watchmaking can’t be more sustainable. The failure is all a brand’s own. “These are choices all businesses can make. Dialogue and engagement ensure we stay aware of sustainable options and can work with suppliers to find good solutions. The biggest downfall is a hesitation to communicate – which is why we commit to transparency with our annual Sustainability Report.”
If you really want to trawl through the report yourself, it’s substantial. It outlines pretty much everything IWC does every step of the way to ensure the longevity and lessen the environmental impact of its own brand of haute horology. Still, if there’s one thing that comes across, it’s that there’s still room for improvement – which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. “It’s important that people understand that we don’t claim to be perfect,” explains Franziska. “Sustainability is a journey, and with new technologies developing all the time we look forward to even more options for managing our impacts responsibly.” It’s this outlook that’s led to IWC being lauded by sustainability advocates like Positive Luxury, which has awarded the watchmaker its Luxury Brand to Trust Butterfly Mark every year since 2014. It’s in good company, alongside the likes of Ruinart, Louis Vuitton and likeminded watchmaker Baume, giants of luxury that are known for their emphasis on sustainability. All this brings me back to my opening point, the fact that most of us don’t really think about the sustainable impact of watchmaking. Yet as Franziska says, keeping green is part and parcel of what makes a watch… well, a watch. “A mechanical watch is an emotional purchase. They’re made with skills that are part of the cultural heritage of Switzerland, and are intended to last for generations. We want everything that goes into our watches, and the conditions in which they are made, to honour this. Environmental sustainability is part of this.” That’s worth thinking about.
The simple fact is that there is no good reason watchmaking can’t be more sustainable. The failure is all a brand’s own
45
© Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent
FRONT — watch reviews
46
FRONT — watch reviews
THE SPECS
• 40mm stainless steel or rose gold case with 30m water resistance • IWC 82200 Calibre automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • £6,450-£14,900, iwc.com
47
FRONT — watch reviews
THE SPECS
© Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent
• 40mm stainless steel or rose gold case with 30m water resistance • IWC 82200 Calibre automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • £6,450-£14,900, iwc.com
48
FRONT — watch reviews
IWC Portugieser 40mm Review
In case you missed out on the quirky watchmaking trivia behind the Portugieser name, it was a watch that was never really meant to be. It started in the 1930s as a commission from a pair of Portuguese collectors. They wanted a wristwatch that ran like a pocket watch and IWC took them at their word. They packed a pocket watch calibre into a then-oversized 38mm wristwatch case, and the Portugieser was born. Since then, despite being ostensibly a dress watch it’s always shared the same kind of large, oversized proportions as IWC’s sports watches, falling into the no-man’s land between the Portofino and Pilot. Now, the Schaffhausenbased watchmaker’s looking to change that by downsizing its elegant-yet-sporty collection to a svelte, eminently wearable 40mm. Yes, it’s still not the now-diminutive 38mm of the original 1930s models, but by today’s standards 40mm is about as small as any non-archival designs are likely to get. Throw in a minimal dial with a sub-seconds ripped straight from the vintage Portuguese Reference 325 and you have a watch that’s perfectly in-line with current retro guidelines. It’s still not small; at 12.3mm thick, it’s nicely chunky, more suited to the boardroom than a charity gala. It does sit comfortably all the same, with an ergonomic shape and comfortably standard alligator strap. Just don’t go thinking of it as a sports watch at all; it might be chunky but it only has 30m water resistance. It’s not a deal breaker, just be warned. The watch is a solid weight and for me is an ideal work watch, tasteful without being flashy. That’s particularly true of my favourite piece in the new 40mm collection. There are four pieces in total, three of which are in steel, one of which is in rose gold. Of those three steel models, two have white dials, one has blue. Of those two white dials, one uses gold indexes, the other uses blue. The steel and white with blue indexes is, to my mind, the perfect expression of casual, everyday elegance. In some lights the blue-applied indexes appear black, but get some direct light on them and they shine as brightly as the matching hands. Blue and white is a classic colour combination for a reason.
49
The movement inside isn’t new here, though it’s the first time it’s been in the Portugieser collection. The 82200 automatic calibre was launched in 2018 and is one of the most efficient winding movements out there, with a partially ceramic Pellaton system winding up a solid 60-hour power reserve. You can see the movement through the sapphire caseback and it’s well worth taking a look at; it’s a cut above your usual ETA clones and hammers home IWC’s horological chops. The Portugieser itself may be simplicity itself; what powers it is not. Alongside the 40mm, IWC has released a raft of smaller Portugieser models, fitting even a perpetual calendar in a nicely-sized 42mm case. The update brings the collection as a whole in line with what most of us are looking for in a watch like the Portugieser where previously its size has put some collectors off – myself included. Starting at £6,450 for the white and blue, steel-cased version, the Portugieser 40mm is a solid reason to invest in IWC beyond the Big Pilots of the world. You’d be hardpressed to find a reason not to wear it. Except near water, of course. £6,450-£14,900, iwc.com
FRONT — watch reviews
THE SPECS
© Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent
• Vertex M100 Bronze 75 • 40mm bronze case with 100m water resistance • ETA 7001 calibre manual-wind movement with 42-hour power reserve • £2,700, limited to 150 pieces vertex-watches.com
50
FRONT — watch reviews
VERTEX M100 Bronze 75
I’ve always liked the field-watch design of the Vertex M100, and if the following the Dirty Dozen gets every time it pops up at auction is anything to go by, it’s not just me. It’s clean, militaristic and historically fit for purpose, recapturing what made that singular wartime design so iconic. In fact, I’ve never really thought it needed much changing and didn’t really have much truck with the blacked-out DLC version. I thought I’d feel the same about the bronze. I do not. In fact, if I had to choose between the new, bronze-clad take on the M100 or the true-to-form steel, I’m not sure where I’d come down. Designed to mark the 75th anniversary of the end of WWII, this new version is a pretty savvy way for Vertex to showcase its heritage. Bronze watches are in vogue, so a genuine reason to use the metal is pretty perfect. That said, not all bronze is created equal, and the one Vertex uses is designed not to pit, meaning that if it gains too much patina for your taste you can buff it back to clean. That’s good to know, as it’s a thin line between antiqued and downright dirty. The part that’s most in danger of grime, the caseback against your wrist, is actually in steel so don’t worry too much about sweating in it. Otherwise, this is exactly the same watch as the standard M100. It has the same 40mm size, the same Swiss ETA 7001 movement and the same dial layout with its moulded superluminova Arabic numerals as the original. It sits just as nicely on the wrist, fitting under a sleeve but still feeling slightly larger than its 40mms might suggest. Sure, the original 1940s watch would have had no luck with bronze when steel’s harder and more practical, but that’s what makes this a commemorative (as opposed to archivally authentic) limited edition. What’s more authentic though is the choice of straps it comes with. The first is vintage leather, thick, chunky and designed to age as gracefully as respectably treated bronze. It’s the type of strap we’re seeing more and more of as retro throwbacks become the horological mainstay. What you see it on here though is the coolest strap ofthe three, a proper Zulu Alpha military green number complete with a commemorative union flag 75 logo. It’s incredibly comfortable and, once you get used to it, easy to slip off. Then, to complete the set, there’s a creamy tan-coloured number that’s as close to the original strap the 1945 Vertex would have been on as makes no difference. It’s soft, stamped with a serial number and unusual – though it feels a little too delicate for daily wear.
51
The Bronze 75 comes with two pairs of quick-release spring bars so you can cycle through the three, though I found myself settling completely on that Zulu Alpha. The presentation of the M100 is as cool as ever in a nice, watertight pelican case, this time with a bronze plaque on the front. At the very least, you know the watch won’t be damaged in delivery; the case is practically bomb-proof. I’m not saying I prefer bronze to steel in general. But in this instance, with the additional straps and the commemorative message behind it, I’m genuinely tempted by the Bronze 75. I doubt it’ll be as timeless as the standard M100, just as I doubt bronze will be flavour of the month for much longer. That doesn’t change that fact that even now, I don’t want to take it off my wrist. £2,700, limited to 150 pieces, vertex-watches.com
At the very least, you know the watch won’t be damaged in delivery; the case is practically bomb-proof
Green is so much more than a colour. Thanks to its abundance in the natural world, this particular pigment has become a byword for all things ecologically minded, sustainable and altogether planet-loving. The fact that it’s been wholeheartedly embraced as a watch colour of late can be no mere coincidence. Either way, we’re not complaining: it’s a gorgeous and previously underrepresented hue that whispers pure class. It’s also, rather fittingly, the colour of pure envy.
TIME
TO
GO
GREEN Photography: TOM PETTIT / FRASER VINCENT
54
STYLE — photoshoot
PIAGET POLO WATCH 42mm steel case with 100m water resistance Piaget 1110P automatic mechanical movement with 50-hour power reserve ÂŁ11,400, limited to 888 pieces, piaget.com
55
STYLE — photoshoot
TAG HEUER CARERA 2020 44mm steel case with 100m water resistance Calibre Heuer 02 automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve £4,695, tagheuer.com
56
STYLE — photoshoot
SEIKO PROSPEX LX SNR045 44.8mm titanium case with 300m water resistance Calibre 5R65 automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve, Master Chronometer Certified ÂŁ4,610, limited to 500 pieces, seikowatches.com
57
STYLE — photoshoot
BRETLING CHRONOGRAPH BENTLEY 42mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance Calibre Breitling 01 automatic chronograph with 70-hour power reserve £6,700, breitling.com
58
STYLE — photoshoot
LONGINES HYDROCONQUEST 41mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance Calibre L888 automatic movement with 64-hour power reserve £1,230, longines.com
59
STYLE — photoshoot
FREDERIQUE CONSTANT VINTAGE HEALEY 42mm steel case with 50m water resistance Calibre FC-397 automatic, with 46-hour power reserve £2,595, limited to 2,888 pieces, frederiqueconstant.com
60
STYLE — photoshoot
BELL & ROSS BR 03-92 DIVER FULL LUM LIMITED EDITION 42mm matt black ceramic case with 300m water resistance Calibre BR-CAL.302 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve £3,800, limited to 999 pieces, bellross.com
61
STYLE — photoshoot
NORQAIN INDEPENDENCE 20 LIMITED EDITION 42mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance Norqain calibre NN20/1 automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve £2,290, limited edition of 200 pieces, norqain.com
62
STYLE — photoshoot
OMEGA SEAMASTER AQUA TERRA CO‑AXIAL MASTER CHRONOMETER 41mm stainless steel case with 150m water resistance Calibre Omega 8900 automatic movement with 60hour power reserve, Master Chronometer Certified £4,610, omegawatches.com
63
STYLE — opener
Style 68/ Style and sustainability 75/ Get the look with our style edit
67
STYLE — sustainability
68
STYLE — sustainability
HOW CARING FOR YOUR CLOTHES BECAME CARING FOR THE PLANET
Eschewing fast fashion is only the first step. Here are the modern labels making planet-friendly pieces that are built to last
Words: NICK CARVELL
69
STYLE — sustainability
part with our money, produced more quickly and more often (it’s not uncommon for luxury fashion houses to produce six collections every year now, when they previously might have only produced two). What’s had far less attention is what happens after that product has entered your wardrobe because, cynically, that’s not where the money is. However, it’s this, as well as the fabrics used for manufacture, that a new generation of menswear brands are looking to address, at the core of businesses that aim to be fully circular - and it’s something we all should be paying attention to. “We see sustainability as a moral imperative,” says Callum McCall, who co-founded Camberwell-based men’s label Flax London with his friend George Rutherford-Jones in January 2018. “Too many brands are content to address one aspect of sustainability and pat themselves
“We see sustainability as a moral imperative. Too many brands are content to address one aspect of sustainability and pat themselves on the back”
While the conversation around sustainability in fashion has become much louder and more urgent over the past decade, up until this point it has tended to centre on garments at the point of manufacture – generally focusing on reducing the amount of new man-made fibres entering the fashion cycle. The fact that the industry has zoned in on how garments are made is hardly surprising; the fashion system exists on an increasingly ravenous diet of new products to get us to
Above: Callum McCall & George Rutherford-Jones started Flax London in Camberwell, South London, two years ago
70
71
STYLE — sustainability
This page: Gerardo Cavaliere and Margherita Cardelli’s garments from the Giuliva Heritage Collection make a statement of longevity by stitching repairs in coloured thread
on the back, despite it being the equivalent of a plaster on a gaping wound.” For McCall, there are three core factors that need to be taken into account when a brand thinks about its sustainability: the impact of creating a piece of clothing, the impact of someone wearing and caring for that piece of clothing, and the impact of throwing away that piece of clothing. To address the first (where many other brands focus their resources), all of Flax London’s clothes (a small collection that comprises a pair of shorts and a shirt and jacket in two fabric weights) are cut from linen sourced in accredited mills in Northern Ireland and Belgium – a material which requires only natural rainfall to cultivate in Northern Europe, as opposed to cotton that requires around 8,000 litres of irrigation to grow just one kilo (that’s around 65 bathtubs more water than for the same amount of linen). The clothes themselves are made in London, meaning a geographically compact, less wasteful process from start to finish. However, where Flax London differs is that the founders have taken those second two points seriously too. Every item they produce comes with washing instructions to both protect its lifespan and the environment (they recommend a cold wash only after four to five wears). Soon they will introduce a branded care range to help people do it right, including a steamer to keep clothes crease-free between wears and a phosphate and preservative-free washing detergent. This approach has been echoed by Leigh Keates, founder of beachwear label Thalassophy, which makes men’s swimming shorts out of 100-per-cent recycled marine and landfill plastic – each fitted with an innovative label that includes washing instructions designed to reduce microplastics entering the water supply. “What is important to me is full transparency,” says Keates. “There is a misconception that using recycled materials is the solution to the world’s plastic crisis, but it’s merely a step in the right direction. Micro-plastics can occur when washing any garment made from synthetic fabrics. I feel that as a brand with a conscience it is our responsibility to educate our consumers.”
Opposite page: Leigh Keates (bottom left), founded Thalassophy to avoid environmental impact at every stage of production
72
STYLE — sustainability
“Our motto is to buy less and wear more. To make this possible we strive to deliver a timeless product” However, beyond preservation through washing, that longevity is also achieved through aftercare. Increasingly brands are offering lifetime warranties for their products. At Flax London, for example, anyone who buys one of their pieces can get it repaired forever for free – they even send a courier to pick it up. And if it can’t be repaired for any reason (a rarity, the duo assure me), they will repurpose the fabric into a new item or as pocket linings and give that customer 20 per cent off their next piece. “Our motto is to buy less and wear more. To make this possible we strive to deliver a timeless product in terms of both design and manufacture – and we realise that when a garment is worn continuously it may need at some point some extra care,” says Margherita Cardelli, who founded Italian men’s and women’s label Giuliva Heritage Collection in 2016 with her husband, tailor and street style icon Gerardo Cavaliere. “We are passionate about the aftercare process of clothing and our Lifetime Guarantee Policy offers repairs and restorations to pieces bought through both our own e-shop, as well as through all of our global stockists, forever. “At the point when a piece needs mending, we propose adding stitches in contrasting colours to create a distinctive and personalised signature. An evident stitch can become a symbol of the history of the garment – it marks another chapter in its life.” As man-made fabrics get filtered out of the fashion cycle, the larger challenge with sustainability becomes re-programming consumers and brads alike to value and cherish longevity. And with brands like these thinking holistically about the longterm effects of the garments they produce, perhaps in the future it will be physical marks of history like this, rather than newness, that become the most desirable thing about the garments we wear.
73
STYLE — must-haves
YATAY,
> It takes a lot of man-made materials to make a traditional trainer. That’s something Umberto de Marco, founder of Italian sneaker brand Yatay, wanted to change. “Sustainability needn’t forfeit luxury or appealing silhouettes,” he says. “That’s why we focused on minor adjustments and updates to the styles we launched with, rather than getting sucked in to the dangerously disposable cycle of drop culture.” Established in 2018, Yatay produces superbly sleek vegan sneakers, handcrafted in Italy from a mix of cereals (the soles and leathers), tree pulp (the linings), hemp (the laces) and recycled plastic bottles (the outers), all of which can be responsibly disposed of at the end of the product’s life using the brand’s complimentary recycling service. YATAYATAY.COM
NICK CARVELL
EIGHT SUSTAINABLYMINDED BRANDS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT FROM SNEAKERS MADE FROM CEREAL TO LAB-GROWN GROOMING PRODUCTS, THESE ARE THE COMPANIES MAKING YOU LOOK YOUR BEST IN THE MOST ENVIRONMENTALLYFRIENDLY WAY POSSIBLE
75
STYLE — must-haves
HARRIS WHARF LONDON,
> Winter is coming, and if you’re looking for a new chill-beating top layer, make sure you check out Harris Wharf London. Set up by siblings Giulia and Aldo Acchiardi after they finished their courses in design and business in London a decade ago, the brand specialises in jersey outerwear made from high-quality Italian and Japanese fabrics in their great grandfather’s former glove factory in Turin. What sets them apart is that they only produce to order, meaning there’s never any overstock, and they cut garments digitally to ensure as little fabric waste as possible. If there is any left after the cutting process, it is sent to a specialised plant in Turin that breaks it down to create new yarn, wadding or insulation – so homes will be just as warm as you are in one of their coats. HARRISWHARFLONDON.CO.UK
“
They only produce to order, meaning there’s never any overstock
76
STYLE — must-haves
“
JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN,
> One of the first mills in the UK to import cashmere, Johnstons of Elgin has been weaving exceptional fabrics for some of the world’s most prestigious design houses since 1797. Now it’s launched EveryYarn, a new line created to utilise leftover fibres from its crafting its mainline Johnstons of Elgin collection. Launched in August, the line currently comprises a selection of eye-popping cashmere scarves and throws,
© Angus Bremner
When our products eventually reach the end of their life, it’s reassuring to know they will compost naturally
crafted in small batches as dictated by the fibres they have available. “The soft, luxurious fibres featured in the EveryYarn range exhibit the same qualities that are renowned in our core and seasonal collections,” says creative director Alan Scott. “And when our products eventually reach the end of their life, it’s reassuring to know that they will compost naturally.” JOHNSTONSOFELGIN.COM
77
STYLE — must-haves
“
Both have been 3D-printed using a powder made from oil extracted from the seeds of castor oil plants
NEUBAU,
> When we talk about sustainable materials, it’s understandable to just think about fabric – but it doesn’t stop there. Neubau, an Austrian opticals brand dedicated to being as sustainable as possible, has just launched its first line of 100-percent bio-based sunglasses. Inspired by Jacques Derary’s 1969 masterpiece La Piscine, hands-down one of the most stylish films ever made (so stylish that even its 2016 Hollywood remake, A Bigger Splash, was stylish), the collection features two styles for men, named after the movie’s two lead actors: Alain, a louche turn-of-theSeventies-style aviator; and the beautiful bulbous Maurice. Both have been 3D-printed using a powder made from oil extracted from the seeds of castor oil plants, which can be reused if there is any excess, meaning far less waste during manufacture. NEUBAU-EYEWEAR.COM
78
STYLE — must-haves
CDLP,
> Environmentally conscious fabrics are the only type that Swedish men’s underwear and swim label CDLP uses. Established in 2016, founders Christian Larson and Andreas Palm started out making block-coloured trunks, boxers and briefs for men from Lyocell, a breathable cellulose fabric made from sustainably grown wood pulp. While the idea of wood-based underwear might sound scratchy, trust us – these feel like silk and, due to the fabric, keep their colour wash after wash. Since then they have expanded the line to also include slinky dress socks crafted from bamboo grass and swimwear (seen being worn by David Beckham on holiday this summer) cut from Econyl, a regenerated technical fibre sourced from fishnets and nylon waste. Most importantly, it all looks and feels damn sexy when you slip it on. Look good, do good. CDLP.COM
79
STYLE — must-haves
“
As precious metals are easy to reuse, it makes using a recycled option a no-brainer
BLEUE BURNHAM,
> It’s hard to find a jeweller more environmentally-minded than Bleue Burnham. Formerly head of sustainability at menswear label Oliver Spencer, Burnham started crafting his eponymous men’s jewellery line in London in 2018 – and he takes sustainability incredibly seriously. Perhaps most notably this can be seen in his commitment to only using recycled precious metals and lab-created stones in his eye-catching, exuberant designs. “Metal mining can often involve the destruction of natural environments and the use of toxic pollutants such as mercury and cyanide,” says Burnham. “Tracing metals back to source is also murky. As precious metals are easy to reuse, it makes using a recycled option a no-brainer.” BLEUEBURNHAM.COM
80
STYLE — must-haves
SUNSPEL,
> Sunspel has been thinking about sustainability since before sustainability was even a thing. Founded in 1860, the brand, which, famously, introduced British men to the boxer short in 1947, has a policy of “no-waste luxury”, a term coined by its third owner, Thomas Archibald Montgomerie Hill, during the Second World War. At a time when resources were scarce, he introduced an ethos of efficient design, responsible manufacturing and conservation of materials to produce items of the highest quality without excess or avoidable waste. It’s a policy that’s still a core part of the way the brand makes its superb, long-lasting staples today, now joined by responsibly sourced materials such as ethical Merino wool and organic cotton as well as the use of recyclable plastic and recycled card in its packaging. SUNSPEL.COM
81
STYLE — must-haves
HAECKELS,
> Volunteer beach warden Dom Bridges set up Haeckels in 2012 after seeing the amount of excess seaweed that washed up on the shores of Margate, where he lived with his wife. That seaweed, harvested from Margate’s beaches, is still a perennial ingredient in Haeckels’ skincare and grooming products, but the brand’s global success has allowed the team to be even bolder with how they create products in an environmentallyfriendly manner. Take its new Bio-Restore Membrane, a pack of 18 pads infused with hyaluronic acid, cucumber and witch hazel to help ease inflammation under your eyes and made from seaweed agar that is grown to order when you add them to your basket online (the brand emails you every week to let you know how your order is coming along in their lab). Unlike many disposable under-eye pads, these are not only 100per-cent natural, but also 100-per-cent compostable – including the packaging. HAECKELS.CO.UK
“
The brand emails you every week to let you know how your order is coming along in their lab
82
FRONT — charity watches
F I N E T I M E P I E C E S A R E A L U X U R Y, b u t t h a t d o e s n ’ t n e c e s s a r i l y m e a n t h a t we n e e d t o fe e l b a d a b o u t b u y i n g t h e m . A s e nv i r o n m e n t a l s u s t a i n a b i l i t y, c h a r i t y a n d g e n e r a l g o o d - fe e l i n g f u z z i n e s s b e c o m e e ve r m o r e i m p o r t a n t i n e ve r yd a y l i fe , s o t o o a r e s o m e h e a v y- h i t t e r s i n t h e w a t c h wo r l d m a k i n g s u r e t h a t t h e y ’ r e g i v i n g b a c k , t o o . H e r e t h e n a r e t h e b e s t c h a r i t y- s l a n t e d r e l e a s e s a r o u n d r i g h t n ow, s a v i n g t h e wo r l d o n e c a l i b r e a t a t i m e .
WORDS:
JAMES BUTTERY
WATCHES FOR
GOOD BLANCPAIN
Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Mokarran, 15,500 USD
Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms was the original diver’s watch, beating Rolex’s Submariner to the market by a matter of months, so it’s only proper that any charitable ventures it launches into should aid the oceans. While the Fifty Fathoms’ contemporary cousin, the Bathyscaphe, has already featured heavily in the brand’s Ocean
The watchmakers on a mission to make the world a better place… and some stunning watches along the way Commitment series of watches to help fund ocean exploration and preservation, here it diverges slightly with a run of 50 black, brushed ceramic watches on fabric straps with striking tropic green sunray brushed dials and ceramic bezels. The Mokarran also foregoes a date window, all of
85
which makes this by far the most dressed-down take on the Bathyscaphe so far. For each watch sold Blancpain will donate $1,000 to the Mokarran Protection Society to aid its work studying the Hammerhead shark in French Polynesian waters. blancpain.com
FRONT — charity watches
“
Oris is no stranger to charitable giving or oceanographic philanthropy ” ORIS
Aquis Hangang
Korea. The watch is a 43.5mm Aquis Circular Date with green (definitely the watch colour of 2020) sunray brushed dial, green ceramic bezel insert and a stamped relief of the river on its caseback. Oris is making 2,000 pieces and a portion of proceeds will go to the Seoul branch of the Korean Foundation for Enviromental Movements and its work reversing the effects of pollution on the river’s ecosystem.
Oris, with its ‘Change for the Better’ motto, is no stranger to charitable giving (remember its Movember watches?) or oceanographic philanthropy (it has in the past helped Whale and Dolphin Conservation as well as coral reef restoration and used recycled waste plastic from the sea for packaging) but its latest watch to offer something back deals with freshwater, namely the Hangang river which runs through South
oris.ch
86
FRONT — charity watches
WILLIAM WOOD
Valiant bronze limited edition
William Wood watches was named after the founder’s late grandfather, a firefighter of 25 years, with the aim of giving something back to the emergency services. Each watch features a crown insert made from a smelted British fireman’s helmet from the 1920s, eye-catching straps made from retired fire hose and allows for a portion of proceeds to be donated to The Fire Fighters Charity with plans to fundraise for other branches of the emergency services further down the line. The latest watch is a 200-piece limited-edition of the Valiant dive watch in bronze. Water resistant to 100m, the Valiant uses a Seiko automatic movement, offers a choice of four strap colours and uses sapphire crystal front and back. williamwoodwatches.com
“
Each watch allows for a portion of proceeds to be donated to The Fire Fighters Charity ” ULYSSE NARDIN
Diver Chronograph Hammerhead
Ulysse Nardin has leaned heavily on the enigmatic form of the shark for its dive watches in recent years, not only for its striking advertising campaigns but with watches named after certain species, including the Great White. Now, the Swiss watchmaker is giving back in the form of a partnership with OCEARCH, a scientific research organisation studying the habits and migratory patterns of sharks. While most of the world is in lockdown, the group is still planning two expeditions in 2020, off the coasts of Massachusetts and Nova Scotia, which Ulysse Nardin will be supporting. With the brand’s support assured there’s no direct link between sales of a particular model and donations but we’d certainly recommend you look at its 44mm Hammerhead Divers Chronograph, a limited edition of 300 pieces in both titanium or rose gold. Not only is it a serious diver, good for 300m, but it’s striking enough to look good on the marina too. ulysse-nardin.com
87
FRONT — charity watches
NOMOS
Medecins Sans Frontieres
Nomos’ support of Doctors Without Borders began in 2012 with the introduction of limited-edition models with lettering on the dial, the tell-tale red number 12 (the NGO’s signature colour) and a tangible (some of these charitable partnerships can be tricky to pin down in terms of cold-hard currency)
“
Nomos’ support of Doctors Without Borders began in 2012 ”
BREGUET
Race for Water Marine 5517
Race for Water is, simply put, a truly extraordinary ship on a five-year voyage around the world, the figurehead for a wider project to spread knowledge of marine conservation and more sustainable ocean-going practices. The tri-hulled boat lives up to its aims, making way either using solar-powered electric motors, hydrogen fuel cells or even a kite that can be deployed in the right conditions to pull it across the waves. Along its route Race for Water will make some 35 stops (currently on hold in light of Covid-19) inviting onboard a host of scientists, dignitaries and schoolchildren
88
£100 per watch going to support its work in crisis-hit areas around the world. Since then more than 8,000 Nomos MSF watches have been sold around the world with the latest, a 500-piece run of the brand’s Ahoi models benefitting the German branch of the charity, Ärzte ohne Grenzen, to the tune of 250 Euros each. nomos-glashuette.com
to spread the message and show that a 100-tonne boat can circumnavigate the globe without the need for fossil fuel. To support the venture Breguet created a commemorative edition of its Marine 5517 in titanium with a guilloche representation of Race for Life on the dial. breguet.com
FRONT — charity watches
IWC
Handwound Portugieser Monopusher Chronograph Laureus Sport for Good
Back in February, before the world was turned on its head, a host of IWC ambassadors walked the red carpet at the 20th Laureus World Sports Award in Berlin to show their support for the initiative IWC has been supporting since 2005. Each year IWC reveals a new limited-edition watch in aid of the organisation which helps disadvantaged youngsters through sport, making use of its signature blue colour and holding a drawing contest among its 300,000 participants, with the winning design stamped on the caseback. In short, they’re usually a big hit with IWC’s customers, but this hand-wound monopusher chronograph also stood out because it adhered to IWC’s recent decision to phase out third-party movements for Portugieser Chronographs. That meant using the 59360 calibre which was more familiar inside the Portofino and Big Pilot collections. As such this watch required a giant 46mm stainless steel case, where 41 and 42mm are the norm for Portugieser Chronographs making for something of an anomaly. iwc.com
“
Each year IWC reveals a new limited-edition watch in aid of the organisation ”
89
FRONT — charity watches
“
Breitling has created a sure-fire way to raise funds by creating a 1,000-piece limited-edition ”
BREITLING
Superocean Heritage 57
The watch community has not been silent during the global Covid-19 pandemic. Some brands (take a bow, Ressence and TAG Heuer) have created special charity one-offs to raise funds, while Revolution publisher Wei Koh assembled an entire auction. Breitling meanwhile has created a sure-fire way to raise funds by creating a 1,000-piece limited-edition run of one of the brand’s most surprising hits in recent years, the Superocean Heritage ‘57 Rainbow. The 250-piece black-dialled version sold out in the blink of an eye, so 1,000 pieces of an arguably even better-looking version (it even brings a smile to the face of an old cynic like me) with the promise of a $500,000 donation to frontline healthcare workers (in the UK that means cash for NHS Charities Together) is great news all round. breitling.com
90
CULTURE — food & drink
As Albert Einstein is often quoted as saying, “Adversity introduces a man to himself.” With the unprecedented spread of the Covid-19 pandemic and the global lockdown, 2020 has seen Britain, and specifically its hospitality industry, weather adversity unlike ever before. In many ways it has brought the best out of restaurateurs. Many have pivoted to offer incredible at-home services or socially distant outdoor dining, and many have decided to take a leap of faith and open new sites and concepts. The following venues have done just that – offering a safe way to enjoy yourself and connect with old friends and family during uncertain times.
EDITED BY NICK SAVAGE
RESTAURANT &BAR
NEWS
← SWIFT SHOREDITCH
91-93 Great Eastern Street – London EC2A 3HZ Launched by husband-and-wife team Mia Johansson and Bobby Hiddleston in 2016, Swift in Soho quickly became one of the most popular cocktail bars to launch in central London, and its sequel bar looks poised to perform the same feat in Shoreditch. Located on Great Eastern Street, Swift will mirror its elder sibling with an off-white colour scheme, Art Deco flourishes, canopied French doors, banquette seating and a long counter bar. It’ll be serving coffee and brunch-style dishes during the day alongside its award-winning cocktails, operating well into the evening. barswift.com
93
CULTURE — food & drink
↓ APT
8 Patriot Square – London E2 9NF An all-star roster of chefs has been enlisted to take over Bethnal Green’s swanky Town Hall Hotel, with a cadre of talent running the gamut from expert hands Claude Bosi and Skye Gyngell to young guns like Jackson Boxer and Lee Westcott. This novel concept gives diners the opportunity to hire an apartment within the property and throw a socially distanced dinner party for up to 10 of your family and friends, whether for breakfast or brunch, a superlative lunch or a unique evening meal. Prices for dinner start at minimum spend of £800 and a paired wine list can be curated by the renowned Tutto Wines. aptand.co
↑ BRAT AT CLIMPSON’S ARCH
374 Helmsley Place – London E8 3SB Tomos Parry’s Michelin-starred Basque-cum-Welsh restaurant Brat has decamped from its Shoreditch bricks-and-mortar home to set up another site: a terrace restaurant at Climpson’s Arch. Known for having played host to cult favourites such as Som Saa and Leandro Carreira, the charming, fairy-light-hung outdoor area has been the perfect foil for Parry’s signature brand of live fire barbecuing. Signature dishes on the menu include whole turbot, spider crab, and grilled bread with anchovy. Brat at Climpson’s Arch has already earned its stripes as one of London’s most popular new entries. bratrestaurant.com/climpsons-arch
→ SIX BY NICO
41 Charlotte Street – London W1T 1RR Nico Simeone took Glasgow and Edinburgh by storm with his affordable tasting menu dining concept, then opened an incredible four more restaurants across Northern Ireland and northern England. His initial foray into London sees him setting up shop on Fitzrovia’s Charlotte Street, with a full six-course meal costing £35 per head and wine pairings only an additional £33. His playful cooking drills down into nostalgic staples such as deep-fried Mars bars or fish and chips to create fine-dining analogues – and to keep himself challenged he rejigs the menu in its entirety every six weeks. sixbynico.co.uk/london/ the-chippie
← SEOUL BIRD
Ariel Way – W12 7GE Judy Joo has earned a devoted following with her Korean-American cuisine on both Iron Chef UK and at her restaurant Jinjuu in Soho, and has teamed up with her long-time partner Andrew Hales to open Seoul Bird in the Westfield Shepherd’s Bush. Inspired by her many journeys through South Korea, from Busan to Seoul, she’s put her passion for Korean poultry into practice serving twicefried chicken with all the fixings. seoul-bird.co.uk
94
CULTURE — food & drink
← BELLANGER
9 Islington Green – London N1 2XH Having shuttered its doors in summer 2019 prior to the COVID-19 lockdown, it’s heartening to see Corbin & King reopen their Islington restaurant Bellanger,
perched on the northern end of the neighbourhood’s leafy eponymous green. As with The Wolseley, The Delaunay and Fischer’s, Bellanger is a MittelEuropean cafeteria in the grand style. You can find it serving the likes of eggs Benedict par excellence,
schnitzel Holstein and a full range of Würtschen and sausages. Not one to sit on their hands, Corbin & King will be opening one of their largest restaurants to date on Shaftesbury Avenue later in the year, so watch out for Manzi’s. bellanger.co.uk
Bellanger is a Mittel-European cafeteria in the grand style... serving eggs Benedict par excellence and a full range of Würtschen → THE MANDRAKE CABANAS 20-21 Newman Street – W1T 1PG
Outdoor spaces have become blisteringly hot commodities since the onset of COVID and The Mandrake Hotel offers one of the best in central London. The sylvan, jasmine-hung Jurema terrace has won awards in the past and is now capitalising on its desirability with the installation of ten private cabanas. Guests can take advantage of fine weather to transport themselves into a gorgeous tropical idyll, with a menu of South American-style dishes available from the hotel’s restaurant YOPO. The cabanas are additionally outfitted
with television screens to stream wellness workshops or artistic programmes, or the guest’s own choice of music or entertainment. On a warm sunny afternoon, there aren’t many better spots to unwind. themandrake.com/jurematerrace.html
The sylvan, jasmine-hung Jurema terrace is capitalising on its desirability with ten private cabanas ↓ JOY AT PORTOBELLO
344 Ladbroke Grove – London W10 5BU Stevie Parle made his name at Dock Kitchen before the going on to open a neat little set of restaurants: Rotorino, Craft London and Palatino. This summer sees the enterprising chef returning to his former home in Ladbroke Grove to create a pop-up outdoor eatery, aperitivo bar and reclaimed garden. The Victorian dock overlooking Regent’s Canal has been transformed by gardeners Arthur Parkinson and Caroline Neville, festooned with thousands of dahlias, and laden with stalls including produce at The Goods Shed, a wine shop named Uncharted and brews from Beer Craft. Parle’s finessed yet simple cooking will be on offer, including woodfire-roasted Fosse Meadows chicken stuffed with ricotta and ‘nduja and American pie for the table – all adding up to a more than sufficient recipe for a joyous meal. joyatportobello.co.uk
95
W o r
A i d y
d s :
WINE
AU
NATUREL Every winemaker attempts to reflect their terroir; Domaine des PrĂŠs Lasses protects it, too
97
S m i t h
CULTURE — sustainable wineries
WINE. YOU DRINK IT; I drink it. In fact, I’m drinking it right now. It’s a wonderful elixir, joie de vivre distilled into red, white and, if you’re that way inclined, rosé. We fixate on the vintages, the provenance, everything down to the imagined blackberries wafting onto the palate. What most of us think less about though is just how the wine’s made.
98
CULTURE — sustainable wineries
Domaine des PrĂŠs Lasses aims to intervene as little as possible with the natural expression of its terroir
99
CULTURE — sustainable wineries
That’s changing of course: organic wines are coming to the forefront of every Whole Foods, and every hangover is put down to an excess of sulphites as much as overindulgence. Yet while farm-to-table has become a mainstay of every seasonal, locally produced, painstakingly sourced, desperate-forattention restaurant, it’s not the same with grapes. Purely natural wines are few and far-between, and the reasons seem relatively grounded in realism. “For the last 40-50 years,” explains winemaker Denis Feigel, “I have often heard, ‘With our neighbours spraying synthetic pesticides and fertiliser, true organic wines do not exist.’ Of course with such an idea and vision on things, no one would have ever gone into organic agriculture if that was the case!” Indeed, as founder and head of wine production for Domaine des Prés Lasses, Denis should know; he’d be out of a job if organic wine were impossible. And yet the region of Faugeres in which the winemaker is nestled, is responsible for 65 per cent of all organic wine production. The question is, what does that actually mean?
Purely natural wines are few and far-between, and the reasons seem relatively grounded in realism
The resulting wines are matured for 18 to 24 months in concrete vats and reused oak barrels
“There’s no weeding,” says Denis. “There’s no insecticides and every method we – and importantly our neighbours – use is green. It leaves us with a clean environment with greater biodiversity and a healthier terroir.” Terroir as ever is at the core of winemaking at Domaine des Prés Lasses and in the case of Faugeres that means a soil uniformly consisting of schistes, and
100
frequent changes in altitude with small hills 150-350 metres high. For a lot of plants, it’s hell on Earth; for wine grapes, it’s perfect – and that’s precisely what the winemaker wants to reflect in the liquid itself. “It’s not always easy and there’s a lot to consider in how you reflect terroir. Our idea is that the winemaker’s own impact should be as limited as possible.
CULTURE — sustainable wineries
101
CULTURE — sustainable wineries
There’s not a hint of sulphur in any part of the wine, part of the reason why it also ages magnificently. If you want a masterclass in just how exceptional the Chemin de Ronde is, look no further than world-renowned British wine critic Jancis Robinson OBE, who gave the wine a particularly glowing review. She’s in charge of the Queen’s cellars, so you’d hope she knows her stuff. Then again, it’s easy to buy into a fine wine that a critic has recommended, if only because it’s evidently a lovely drink. So why does the fact that it’s naturallymade actually matter? “As the consumption of wine is not vital, the way we cultivate the vine must be exemplary,” says Denis. “If we don’t care for the soil and give the plants the right nutrients to grow, if we overmechanise and divert nature too much, the compacted clay of the soil will slip away with each rainfall. “Finally though, we are seeing more and more producers adopting a similar approach to ours, building on the trial and error we and others have gone through and the way we’ve developed best practices. Having the occasional stellar review helps too, of course; you imitate success.” Not every natural, organic wine is the saviour of your cellar. There’s no blanket statement that one way of making wine produces something better than another, with exceptions everywhere. But as Domaine des Prés Lasses are proving, you can love your wine, love the environment and bring both together in a single glass. Sante! pres-lasses.com
That way, the terroir is allowed to flourish more freely in the finished wine. It’s a balance of course, but we find that the more naturally you make your wine, the more faithfully you recreate your unique terroir.” Of course, that kind of outlook doesn’t mean good, otherwise cooking wouldn’t be a thing. But at the same time it’s a common misconception that natural and organic wines are inferior. Having sampled what Domaine des Prés Lasses, I can confirm that they are very, very good. The Domaine des Prés Lasses Chemin de Ronde ticks off every sort of flavour an oenophile might want. As aromatic as a spring meadow with floral, fruity and spicy notes, the entire wine is underpinned by the minerality that is the Faugeres signature flourish. Grapes at Domaine des Prés Lasses are harvested by hand from its 30 hectares of vineyards and carefully sorted to produce the best possible wine
“As the consumption of wine is not vital, the way we cultivate the vine must be exemplary” 102
CULTURE — travel
104
CULTURE — travel
Words:
Lewis Nunn
STAYING ON TRACK THE FINEST LUXURY TRAIN JOURNEYS IN THE WORLD
105
CULTURE — travel
IN A NEW WORLD OF THE GRETA THUNBERG EFFECT, travellers have to come face to face now more than ever with their carbon footprint. But why should that mean any less luxury? Use this opportunity to take the slow route, swap planes for trains and step back in time to an opulent world of splendour with Champagne on tap and caviar by the mini-fridge full.
The trains of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express are all beautifully restored from the heyday of luxury train travel
THE
© DHelen Cathcart
© David Noton Photography
OR IEN T E X PR ESS
London to Venice Backdropping Agatha Christie’s 1934 novel, Murder on the Orient Express, the world-famous Venice Simplon-Orient-Express boasts timeless elegance with stylised Art Deco carriages decorated with black lacquer panels and Lalique glass inlays, teleporting guests back to the golden age of rail travel. Hop on board at London Victoria Station along with crates of Champagne, caviar and freshly caught lobster. You’ll be greeted by stewards suited in gold livery and white gloves pointing you to your cabin, draped in romance, from French-polished cherry wood to damask sheets and gleaming mahogany panelling. Sweeping past rural French farmlands and Swiss Alpine valleys you’ll dine on foie gras and salt marsh lamb from Mont St Michel, curled up on deep green velvet armchairs, as the best of Europe passes by your window from Venice to Verona.
106
CULTURE — travel
107
CULTURE — travel
ROVOS R A IL South Africa
Gawp at jaw-dropping landscapes and wildlife paired with some of South Africa’s finest wines on a mighty 1,000-mile expedition from Pretoria to Cape Town. Journeying through Zimbabwe, Namibia and Tanzania, you’ll glide along the grasslands of Highveld and soar across the desert of Great Karoo wearing a high suction pair of goggles as you battle off the dust from your open-air balcony. The atmosphere onboard Rovos Rail is sparkling with live string ensembles and a gong setting the tone for each candlelit dinner. Waiters waltz around in navy suits and pocket squares, serving up Cape bobotie in the Edwardian-style dining cars with grand tufted leather chairs and tasselled curtains embroidered with roses. Cosy up in the observation car and spot clans of antelopes and wildebeests as you’re chauffeured through the mystical Cape Winelands passing emerald vineyards and whitewashed Cape Dutch style houses dotted at the base of imposing mountains — a nature lover’s dream.
“
© Beadle Photo
Waiters waltz around in navy suits and pocket squares, serving up Cape bobotie in the Edwardian-style dining cars Rovos Rail is named for its founder Rohan Vos, who saw the first train leave in 1989
108
CULTURE — travel
109
CULTURE — travel
THE
HIR A M BINGH A M Machu Picchu
In 1911, notorious American explorer Hiram Bingham rediscovered the lost city of the Incas — nowadays, travellers can take his namesake voyage, chugging between Cusco and Machu Picchu with mighty mountains and bewitching villages setting the backdrop. Soak up the views from the peach-cushioned bar serving Peruvian Piña Coladas as you roll past the rapid Urubamba River and fields of lavender corn on a quest to the heart of the Inca Empire. Pullman-style carriages are decorated with fine fabrics, antique fittings and nature-inspired motifs while the Observation Car marks the perfect spot to catch the sunrise. Gawk at the breathtaking Sacred Valley and sample Peruvian wine as you pass through the Andes nibbling on pumahuanca salt-crusted trout and Kiwicha caviar. As night draws in, the Hiram Bingham is transformed by Latin beats from its a South American band and Cartavio Solera rum flowing throughout.
110
CULTURE — travel
111
© Richard James Taylor.
CULTURE — travel
A Latin band serenades passengers of the Hiram Bingham en-route to Machu-Picchu
“
Gawk at the breathtaking Sacred Valley and sample Peruvian wine as you pass through the Andes
112
CULTURE — travel
The Belmond Royal Scotsman first set off in 1985, then belonging to the Great Scottish & Western Railway Company
THE
ROYA L SCOTSM A N Scotland
Take the slow route through the rolling green hills of Scotland from Edinburgh to the medieval Highlands, as you explore some of the finest distilleries and retire back on-board to a bar stocked with more than 50 kinds of whisky. You’ll be taken aback by glistening mirror-still lochs and dominant castles as you cosy up in tartan woollen blankets and sip a Scotch with your 35 travel companions in the mahogany-clad dining car. Lay beside pine-clad mountains as your personal astronomer guides you on a stargazing session and set off on a guided mountain bike tour. More gentle travellers can opt for a massage at the Haybarn spa or head out for a yoga class surrounded by nothing but Scottish red deer and Highland cattle: soaking up the slower pace of life.
114
CULTURE — travel
115
CULTURE — travel
THE
ROC K Y MOU N TA IN EER Canada
As autumn reds emerge and fresh snow falls on the mountaintops, set off as great pioneers once did and explore Western Canada’s iconic Rocky Mountain landscape and rugged scenery aboard the Rocky Mountaineer. Surfing from Banff to Vancouver, you’ll ride along the Thompson River passing jagged cliffs, glacial runoffs and staggering terrain with some of the most colossal mountains in the continent. Suppose the idea of sleeping onboard doesn’t sit comfortably. In that case, the Rocky Mountaineer is the perfect alternative; offering travellers local hotel stays with portered luggage rather than operating as a sleeper train. From your panoramic glass-domed coach, you’ll catch glimpses of elk, bighorn sheep and eagles as you sip local mountain beer and snap a shot of the tallest peak in the Rockies — Mount Robson. While onboard, award-winning international chefs prepare dishes like steelhead salmon fillets with smoked sea salt and Alberta beef short ribs braised in Okanagan Valley Merlot. You’ll uncover a treasure trove of jewels from Pyramid Falls to the Fraser Canyon where the gold rush brought more than 10,000 hopefuls over 160 years ago.
A typical view from on-board the Rocky Mountaineer
“
From your panoramic glass-domed coach, you’ll catch glimpses of elk, bighorn sheep and eagles as you sip local mountain beer
116
FRONT — electric vehicles
WORDS: ADAM HAY-NICHOLLS
THE
BIG 118
FRONT — electric vehicles
ADAM HAY-NICHOLLS LAYS OUT THE THREE-VEHICLE GARAGE OF HIS ELECTRIC DREAMS
SWITCH 119
FRONT — electric vehicles
120
FRONT — electric vehicles
Electric vehicles had been a niche curiosity for 130 years. Suddenly they’ve stomped on the accelerator and shot into the mainstream. The internal combustion engine (ICE) is now an endangered species. In 2020, the majority of cars retain the traditional recipe of cylinders and oil, but by the end of the decade they won’t. By 2030, according to Deloitte’s analysts, four out of five new cars sold around the world will be plug-ins. As the market share grows, so too will the infrastructure of charging points, whilst gas stations diminish in numbers. Petrolheads are already decrying the loss of growling engines, shiny exhausts and H-gate transmissions. They are being surpassed by electroheads, who yearn for quieter, cleaner streets and cheaper running costs. This seismic change in the vehicles we drive is as much a psychological revolution as a technological one. A century ago, motoring
EVs charge, send and receive data, and are updated just like a smartphone. As battery technology improves, so too does the range
With a target output of 2,000 PS, the Lotus Evija is the world’s most powerful production road car
121
pioneers toasted the ‘roaring’ Twenties; the pioneers of today like to go about their business in silence. The automobile or motorcycle is no longer seen as a mechanical masterpiece that’s passed from one generation to the next. It’s becoming digital, disposable and on-demand, in tune with the lifestyles of today’s ‘iGen’. EVs charge, send and receive data, and are updated just like a smart phone. As battery technology improves, so too does the range. And as more motorists convert to battery power, the price of EVs is slowly coming down. Right now, factoring in the average purchase price and running costs over the course of a year, electric is marginally less expensive than ICE. The costs of ICE on the other hand will continue to increase as governments ramp up taxes on fuel and emissions. So, battery-powered plug-ins are good for the environment and the wallet, but can they excite enthusiasts the same way a gas-guzzler can? Step forward Lotus.
LOTUS EVIJA: Ok, so the money-saving thing might not apply here. The price of the Eviya is £2.4m, and 130 will be built. Loti (to use the Partridgesque plural) are usually defined by their lightweight and modest cubic capacity. Here, the philosophy has changed. Battery cells, unfortunately, weigh rather a lot. On the other hand, they provide tonnes of power. Lotus has done well to keep the Evija down to 1,680kg – positively anorexic for an EV. There are four motors that produce a combined 1,970bhp, which is certifiably put-a-straitjacket-on-it insane. A Ferrari F8 Tributo, packing Maranello’s most powerful V8 ever, has a maximum 770 Nm of torque; the Lotus has 1,700 Nm! Will it even be able to go around corners? Well, that’s what Lotus is known for, so you’d hope so. Put a bet on whoever plays the next 007 driving one of these. The Eviya might make sense for James Bond, but what about those without a licence to kill? The choice of all-electric family cars between £30k and £60k is rapidly expanding, starting with the Nissan Leaf and MINI and going up to the Audi e-tron and Mercedes EQC. Tesla’s Model S and Model X set the trend for premium EVs, but now the traditional manufacturers have caught up and are undercutting Elon Musk on price. The build quality and safety of the British, German and Japanese offerings is also superior, because they’ve been making cars for decades whereas the disruptive Tesla identifies first and foremost as an energy company. Californians might have flocked to the Model S these past eight years, but the real tide-turner has been Jaguar’s I-Pace, the first EV from an established luxury brand.
FRONT — electric vehicles
122
FRONT — electric vehicles
Far more grown up than a Tesla, it signalled upon its release in 2018 that the electric vehicle has come of age
The all-electric Jaguar I-Pace has a permanent magnet-electric motor at each axle, achieving 394 horsepower and 512 pound-feet of torque
JAGUAR I-PACE: Priced from £65,000, the I-Pace is the most gamechanging car Jaguar has made since the 1960s. With a motor on each axle, its 394bhp delivers 0-60mph in a McLaren-chasing 4.5 seconds and it’s good for a 300-mile-range if you’re reasonably gentle with it. Permanent four-wheel-drive enables it to seriously impress off road as well as on, and the cabin is spacious as well as stylish. Far more grown up than a Tesla, it signalled upon its release in 2018 that the electric vehicle has come of age. Rather wonderfully, some classic cars are being given a second life with new-age powertrains, which means beautiful designs from the 1950s and ‘60s will remain on our roads beyond the memories of their straight-six organs. But what if, for your open-air weekend thrills, you prefer two wheels and insist on leather, not Lycra. Harley-Davidson is able to accommodate.
123
FRONT — electric vehicles
It’s easy to live with... able to fully charge in under an hour with a solid 100-mile range. And best of all it doesn’t sound electric – it sounds like a jet engine!
HARLEY-DAVIDSON LIVEWIRE: There’s nothing retro about this particular American icon. Packed with state-of-the-art technology, and with instant acceleration and an aggressive riding position, the LiveWire looks nothing like the bikes out of Easy Rider. Still, it’s the easiest rider out there and incredibly well-built besides. Application of its 105bhp is silky smooth and linear. There are seven selectable ride modes that electronically control the characteristics of the motorcycle and safety intervention systems, while a low centre of gravity means it’s probably the best handling Harley ever. It’s equally easy to live with, too; able to fully charge in under an hour with a solid 100-mile range. And best of all it doesn’t sound electric – it sounds like a jet engine! Priced at £28,995, it’s a lot for a motorbike but good value for a trendsetter. Choose the right EV and there’s still soul and drama to be found. Responsibility may be the new sexy, but the future doesn’t have to be boring.
The onboard charger and power cord connects to any standard household outlet and charges to full overnight. At a Level 3 charge station, an 80% charge takes 40 minutes
124
FRONT — electric vehicles
125
CULTURE — unsung heroes
Words:
Jake Scatchard
UNSUNG HEROES: BREITLING TOP TIME An underrated sports chronograph with all the trappings of a potential icon
126
CULTURE — unsung heroes
The original Top Time was introduced in 1964 – a hit among young men for its size, style and affordability
THE 1960S SAW A DYNAMIC SHIFT in culture and design, characterised by the trailblazing energy of the youth – the baby-boomer generation. Conventional tastes of prior decades warped into something profoundly different, with music, clothing and arts following suit. With little choice but to adapt to the needs of an influential youth, the watch industry’s efforts to simplify their designs spawned some of the most exciting periods in watchmaking history. Rolex’s Daytona and Heuer’s Carrera are among many of the iconic sports watches to hold such appeal and value in today’s market. However it is Breitling, one of the earliest innovators, whose Top Time model remains one of the most overlooked yet highly significant watches to emerge from the decade. Superseding the legendary Navitimer, the Top Time was a chronograph of contemporary flavour and simple design. Its dial remains stark – abandoning the complexities of its predecessors in the Breitling catalogue, instead opting for an elegant and precise display. Carefully marketed to appeal to the trailblazing spirit of the ‘60s youth, Breitling’s new chronograph embodied living life to the hilt and making every second count. Even in its name, the ‘Top Time’, remains punchy, literal and memorable. The Top Time’s most typical design is a black dial with two silver subdials, offered with three alternate outer scales: tachymeter, pulsometer and decimal. Upon its release in 1964, the chronograph found instantaneous success due to its affordability and appealing size of 36mm. The following year, the Top Time achieved ‘Bond Watch’ status when championed by Sean Connery’s James Bond in Thunderball. The Top Time was the first Bond watch to double as a spy tool –fitted with a Geiger counter by Q in the movie. The version worn by Connery was one of the most expensive Breitlings to be ever sold – selling at auction in 2013 for £103,875 (after the seller paid merely £25 for the watch in a car boot sale). The Top Time would continue to evolve in the late ‘60s through different dial configurations and
case shapes. Most notably, the Ref. 810 ‘Long Playing’ Top Time offered a slightly more mature, functional display through its inclusion of a third subdial. Shortly following the 810, Breitling would experiment with a square case for a sharper aesthetic. While historic, the Top Time is a watch which seems to linger in obscurity. Comparisons are often made to the Heuer Carrera – a sporty yet simple chronograph to emerge from the 1960s alongside the Top Time. While both are alike in origin and design, the Carrera’s ascension to icon status has cast a considerable shadow over Breitling’s chronograph. In the current market, a Carrera can be worth three to five times the price of Breitling’s equivalent chronograph, despite their similar makeup. Yet the Top Time’s lower value is not reflective of lesser quality, rather of a legacy untapped. For two decades Heuer has harnessed the spirit of its best-selling chronograph through copious re-editions and design alterations. For years the Breitling faithful have longed for the Top Time’s revival – a wish eventually granted in 2020 through the release of a 41mm limited re-edition, featuring the mask-like ‘Zorro dial’ of the Ref. 2003. Returning after a 45-year absence, the Top Time’s handsome re-imagining shines in a diverse landscape of modern watches, speaking to the sheer timelessness of the avant-garde design of ‘60s chronographs. If you find an original out there – even if its not at a car boot sale – snap it up.
Sean Connery sports an original Top Time in Thunderball
127
CULTURE — auction
CHRISTIE’S ASIAN ART WEEK Starting 16 September
Been staring at your walls in lockdown thinking they could use a bit of oriental exoticism? Look no further than Christie’s, who will be showcasing a vast number of Asian artists over the course of a solid week. Covering over 5,000 years of art, the 11 separate online sales will be offering everything from rare huanghuali furniture to modern paintings by Vasudeo S. Gaitonde and Jehangir Sabavala. To give you an idea of the calibre of art on offer, this particular painting, untitled of course, by Gaitonde has an estimate of $2m. Yeah, expect some serious bidding wars. christies.com
AUCTION WATCH THIS MONTH’S BIDS AND PIECES
Now in its 50th edition, Sotheby’s Auburn Fall auction will see in excess of 500 diverse collectors’ cars and as many as 400 lots of memorabilia go under the hammer, 3-5 September ranging from American classics to European sports cars, muscle, hot rods, customs, and modern collectibles. Case in point, the insane 1935 Auburn Eight Supercharged Speedster going under the hammer with a solid $700,000 estimate. Widely considered to be one of the most beautiful American cars ever built, it’s the first time this baby’s been up for auction in the last 20 years; we doubt whoever buys it will let go of it again that soon. rmsothebys.com AUBURN FALL AT RM SOTHEBY’S
Vacheron Constantin tourbillons, industrial Urwerks and gem-set 2-14 September everything courtesy of Graff. The catalogue seems to Can’t decide between art, keep growing, but if you watches and jewellery? You don’t need to. Just keep an have any taste at all there’ll eye on Phillips’ online-only be something you’ll be auction out of Hong Kong inclined to bid on. Just and see what takes your fancy. don’t go expecting a deal; It’s certainly a mixed bag of no matter which type of piece modern luxury, with artists you opt for, these are serious like Eddie Martinez nestled collectors’ items. nicely alongside contemporary phillips.com INTERSECT: ONLINE AUCTION AT PHILLIPS
128
BACK — in focus
IN FOCUS AN INSIGHT INTO THREE FASCINATING BRANDS Edited By
SAM KESSLER
Marnaut, Bespoke Watch Projects and Michel Herbelin
131
BACK — in focus
132
BACK — in focus
MARNAUT The sea urchin is an odd creature, one that seems almost alien in the oceans, like it’s from a completely different time. In many ways, it is; it’s one of the oldest creatures on Earth. Despite its unique otherness – or perhaps because of it – the sea urchin also happens to be the basis for the success of Croatian microbrand Marnaut. Like many growing up in Hong Kong and Japan, Marnaut Founder Mario Jutronic had an innate love of watches, especially Seiko, of which he still retains a pretty impressive collection of famous pieces. However, he spent a good deal of his childhood making the most of the Adriatic coastline of Croatia and snorkelling around the Island of Brac, where Sea Urchins and their exoskeletons are everywhere. It’s no surprise then, that when after eight years of collecting rugged diving watches Mario decided to try his hand at designing his own watch, he turned to the spiky echinoderms of his childhood for inspiration. After all, you need some way of standing out, especially in the crowded diving watch market and, while most of us haven’t had the most pleasant experiences with the sea creatures (stepping on one, for example) there’s no denying that the resulting signature Marnaut dials work rather well indeed. Take the microbrand’s latest and newly-shipping timepiece, the Seascape 200m. While it’s more nautical than truly being a diving watch (you can leave that task to Marnaut’s initial launch piece, the Dark Surge 300m), it’s perfect for snorkelling the shallows, complete with an interior diving bezel and, in the Reverse colourway especially, a handsome high-contrast finish. In typical ‘60s style, the two-crown layout is elegant more than it is rugged, a 40mm gentleman’s diver. Central to the design are the lume-filled dots emanating from the centre of the dial, representing the spines of the sea urchin that inspired it. Rather than an overly ornate engraving or some eyewrenching pattern, it’s a subtle yet unmistakable allusion and one that actually has a practical purpose, making it easier to read in low light. The end result is a watch that’s clearly drawn from the same classic divers as many another retro-slanted microbrand but, thanks to Marnaut’s signature dial, is at the same time its own animal. What it does have in common with its peers though is one of the main reasons the world of microbrands is quickly becoming incredibly important: accessibility. The Seascape 200m is equipped with a workhorse Miyota 9015 calibre, a movement that is mechanically the equal of any stock movement out there, just
without the finishing – or the price tag. If you want to balance reliability with affordability, Miyota is the way to go. In Marnaut’s case, it brings the cost of its new watch down to just Euro 380.99 – or in old money, just under £345. Time will tell how far Marnaut can take its sea urchin dial, but if the Dark Surge and Seascape are anything to go by, it’s an adaptable signature, one that we’ll see more of when it launches its next timepiece later this year. What is it, you ask? Well, that would be telling. Just remember to watch this space. In the meantime, get your preorder in early for the Seascape 200m on the brand’s website now. marnaut.com
When Mario decided to try his hand at designing his own watch, he turned to the spiky echinoderms of his childhood for inspiration
133
The Marnaut Seascape 200m is available to order online now
BACK — in focus
134
BACK — in focus
BESPOKE WATCH PROJECTS From old-school Hollywood to golden-coast surfer chic, California knows style. It’s home to almost as many styles as there are people – and there are a lot of people, a good many of whom are after a watch or two. That’s where Californiabased Bespoke Watch Projects come in. Founded in 2013 by designer, visual artist and watchmaker John Beck McConnico, the brand mixes the kind of product design experience gained from working with the likes of Apple and Sony with the eye of a collector. That might sound like a fair deal of fluff, but the timepieces created by Bespoke Watch Projects prove otherwise. The latest expression of what the company does is the Intaglio, a series of strictly limited timepieces harnessing hand-engraved dials. Ranging from elongated batons to Bauhaus-style typographic numerals, they’re all bold, graphic and distinct. The Super 60 for example looks like the front panel of a radio that was designed to be futuristic in the 1950s, and we love it. The variation of dials is impressive, as is the design lavished not just on the hand-crafted aspects but the watches that they front. Available in 36mm, 37mm, 40mm and with a 38mm diver in the middle, and with the choice of plain steel or a gold finish, there’s more options than anyone with a sane mind could ask for. But of course, it doesn’t stop there. If you want to get even more rarefied than its cool limited editions, Bespoke Watch Projects does live up to its name, with an online watch builder to rival any of the custom horologists – or pretenders to custom horology – out there. The fact that it’s more fun to play with than most certainly helps. You can choose your dial from BWP’s extensive range (including the aforementioned Intaglio, of course), your hand set whether you’re classical or modernist, right down to the shape of the sapphire crystal and the Swiss movement you want leading the whole dance. By the end you’ll have the perfect made-to-measure timepiece for you, but one that remains very distinctly Californian.
The Intaglio with ‘Super 60’ dial in Red
Bespoke Watch Projects does live up to its name, with an online watch builder to rival any of the custom horologists Generally this kind of custom timepiece will cost the Earth with very few exceptions – those exceptions generally looking and feeling cheap. While Bespoke Watch Projects keeps things solid, hand-built and Swiss-powered, they’re not expensive at all; the Intaglio starts from just £580 for the 36mm going up to £978 for the 37mm. Striking modern designs, great prices and the everappealing option to create your own timepiece in the same vein, Bespoke Watch Projects are bringing Californian style to the world, whatever that may be. bespokewatchprojects.com
135
BACK — in focus
136
BACK — in focus
MICHEL HERBELIN If like us you’re based in the UK, there’s a chance that you might not have come across Michel Herbelin before. Well, outside of fine horological publications such as ours, of course. If you were in France however, there’d be no chance, seeing as on home turf it’s the biggest watch brand there is. Since 1947 the Michel Herbelin, named after its founder, has been nestled in the village of Charquemont at the base of the Jura Mountains, the cradle of French watchmaking. For more than 60 years, the brand has retained its independence and built on the innate watchmaking heritage of the area and become ubiquitous with l’horlogerie Française. It’s not all that hard to see the appeal. Michel Herbelin’s range of timepieces is extensive, sure, but the same kind of French elegance weaves throughout each collection, be that its inimitable ladies’ range or sporty pieces like its flagship Newport. Better yet, they’re all incredibly accessible. Michel Herbelin does not make movements. That needs to be said first and foremost. However, nor do they pretend to; their skills lie in the design and finishing of the timepieces, while they rely on their friends across the Jura Mountains in Switzerland for the movements inside. It’s an arrangement that you’ll see in many a brand, but one that, here at least, leads to incredibly well-priced timepieces – Michel Herbelin tends to land within the 300 – 1,000 Euro range – that are nonetheless finished with exacting care and attention to detail. In short, you don’t need to pay the world to get a solid, elegant, distinctly French timepiece. That doesn’t always mean Automatic; in fact, a good number of Michel Herbelin pieces use quartz movements rather than mechanical and sure, amongst horological purists that’s likely a deal breaker. Those people can go buy a Cartier instead for a few grand more. For the rest of us looking for value rather than prestige, it’s a different matter entirely. Take, for example, the latest edition of Michel Herbelin’s Newport Chronograph. A classically elegant sports chronograph, the current Newport is a more contemporary take on the watch’s nautical inspirations from 1988. From the Genta-esque visible screws around the bezel, drawn from yacht winches, to the shimmering sunray blue dial, it screams Riviera chic. It’s also a precision instrument, with an advanced Swiss Ronda 5040 D quartz movement powering the tricompax, 24-hour chronograph layout made all the more readable with bold hour markers and
In short, you don’t need to pay the world to get a solid, elegant, distinctly French timepiece technical-looking subdials. The result is, simply put, a damn good-looking sports watch that walks the walk and talks the talk. Of course, best of all is the aforementioned price. Despite the flawlessly on-trend style and fine details, the Newport 24-hour Chronograph is priced at just £720. No matter your opinions on quartz vs. mechanical, that’s a lot of watch for the money. And hey, for the purists there are also automatic versions. It’s hard to find a reason not to give Michel Herbelin a go. Most of France already has, after all. Find out more at michel-herbelin.com
137
BACK — microbrand corner
MICROBRAND
CORNER From avant-garde accessibility to niche haute horology, this is the latest and greatest from the creative world of microbrands
Aerotec Bay
You’d be excused by now for assuming Kickstarter was built for funding new diving watches with the number that appear on the platform. The Aerotec Bay though shows just why that’s the case. An elegant evolution of its Sea Hunt Diver, the Bay is both slimmer and more contemporary, replacing the trio of coloured meteorite dials with brilliant white, carbon or an incredibly striking red number. That last is going to have bidders lining up when the watch launches its Kickstarter campaign on 8 September, especially as for the first three days you’ll be able to get the watch for just AUD429 – just under £240. Add AUD50 for the wave carbon sandwich dial and add AUD100 for the full-lume sandwich dial – both well worth the extra.
THE SPECS
• 40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • MIYOTA 9039 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • From AUD429 (Super Early Bird), AUD699 (Full Retail),
aerotecwatches.com
139
BACK — microbrand corner
THE SPECS
• 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Swiss Made STP 4-13 automatic movement with 44-hour power reserve • €1,379
Von Doren URÆD
Inspired by Norwegian nautical hero Ole Brude – a man who sailed solo across the Atlantic to prove the efficacy of his unique lifeboat design – and taking design cues from turn of the century Art Nouveau, the URÆD is a lovely sailing watch. Available in a trio of colours – lava black, green sea and Atlantic blue – and displaying either English or Norwegian weekdays, the elegantly finished watch is backed by the ever-reliable Swiss-made STP 4-13. With its vintage good looks, nautical roots and especially in the beautiful sea green, the URÆD is a seriously impressive first watch from a brand that may prove to put Norway on the horological map. vondoren.com
Feynman Cove
THE SPECS
• 40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • ETA 2895 automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve • SGD$1,088,
It’s an indisputable fact that compressor-style divers are cool. The retro-slanted, dual-crown silhouette is instantly-recognisable to anyone that likes a bit of underwater exploration. The Feynman Cove however has more going on than the case shape; the dial is magnificent. The segmented blue, black or sea green is centred around an organic pattern that, in low light, comes to life with luminescence. Between that and the quirkily curved small second hand, the Cove is like no other diver out there. If you’re looking for a retro 60s diver to fit in with the crowd, keep looking; if you’re after a solidly built yet uniquely inspired ode to the underwater world, look no further than the Cove. feynman.watch
140
BACK — microbrand corner
Chotovelli & Figli Navigator 1949
Aviation purists rejoice! Finally there’s an affordable timepiece to suit that old WWII plane you’ve been fixing up. The latest generation behind Chotovelli & Figli have done more than revive a nearly century-old name; they’ve been harking back to the golden age of pilots’ watches and their military roots. Case in point, the Navigator 1949, sequel to Chotovelli’s Flieger 1919. The vintage-style round case and high-contrast, clearly legible dial makes for an intensely practical timepiece, even if you’re not quite a fighter ace. That’s particularly true in the Dial A, white-on-black version. It’s about as old-school aviation as a shearling-lined leather jacket and the phrase “chocks away!” chotovelli.com
THE SPECS
• 43mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Seiko VH31 Quartz movement • $180
141
BACK — microbrand corner
THE SPECS
• 38mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Ronda 5021.D Quartz movement • €595
The result is an elegant, considered, vintage-style chronograph, backed by the reliability of a Swiss Quartz movement
BUUR
Multiscale Chronograph Ever had trouble deciding between the classic racing tachymeter, the wonderfully retro pulsometer or the all-toooften sidelined telemeter? No? Well, BUUR has you covered anyway with its novel Multiscale Chronograph, which displays all three separate practical uses for a chronograph. It would be
easy to make this kind of display impossible to read, yet thanks to the clean, restrained dial (particularly in the white versions), it maintains legibility across the board. The result is an elegant, considered, vintage-style chronograph, backed by the reliability of a Swiss Ronda 5021.D Quartz movement, finished with a hesalite crystal because, in BUUR’s own words, “Plexi is sexy.” So is this very affordable timepiece. buurwatches.com
142
END — moviewatch
M OVIE WATC H
The King’s Man When Matthew Vaughn decided to lampoon the classic Bond-esque ‘for queen and country’ superspy back in 2015, Kingsman: The Secret Service was a breath of fresh air in the genre and was close to making Colin Firth as unlikely an action star as Liam Neeson. It was fun, colourful and, with Daniel Craig making Bond all growling and gritty, needed.
KING OF KINGS
This is the third tie-in watch of the franchise – the first by Bremont, and the second TAG Heuer
144
Kingsman: The Golden Circle also existed. If there’s one thing all the films so far have gotten right – definitely more than dull things like plot, character development, sense – is style. The clothes maketh the Kingsman. Their secret base was Huntsman on Savile Row so that much is to be expected, but just as much attention was lavished on their watches. While the third instalment, The King’s Man, starring Ralph Fiennes, Gemma Arterton and Daniel Brühl, is taking us back to the early 20th century, it looks to be as stylish as ever – this time with the help of Swiss watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre. Drawing inspiration from JLC’s extensive archives, the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch draws its name and aesthetic from the 1907 Couteau (French for knife) pocket watch. Its seriously slim 4.25mm thickness, in large part thanks to the phenomenal Calibre 849 inside and Art Deco style make it the most gloriously elegant requisition for the Kingsmen so far. We’re waiting to see whether it’ll live up to its name in more than looks – and given the last, epic trailer for the film I can imagine it will – but in the meantime you can grab yourself the watch exclusively at Mr Porter, priced at £26,900 and limited to 100 pieces. jaeger-lecoultre.com