Oracle Time - 70th Edition - March 2021 Issue by Oracle Time Magazine

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .70

The King of Vintage

ROLEX The Investment Issue WATCHES | WINE & WARDROBE STAPLES

ISSUE 70

5.95

ORACLE TIME #70

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent Watch: Rolex Submariner rolex.com

I’m not particularly into investments myself – my diverse portfolio includes half a flat in Lambeth and a handful of reasonably priced timekeepers – but even I’ve been keeping abreast with the whole Wall St. Bets controversy. It’s been fun, seeing Gamestop, a high street games retailer in the digital, lockdown era, put hedge funds in the red. It does though show just how inane the world of stocks and shares is. That’s why for our investment issue, we’ve instead decided to look at the more tangible ways to make your money work for you. If you can genuinely enjoy them while they go up in value, all the better! To that end we raided the watch boxes of pre-owned luxury specialist Xupes for our March shoot on page 61, highlighting with shots from the inimitable Justin Hast some of the timepieces available now that we reckon could be seriously good investments. And if they’re not, they look pretty spectacular, too. Of course, Rolex is a big part of that and we can’t talk about the watch with the crown without enlisting someone well versed on the subject – someone like James Dowling, who breaks down how Rolex investing has changed over the last quarter-century on page 50, and provides a few insider tips on which references you should be bidding on at auction. If you’re after a brand a little more off the beaten path however, Phillips watch expert Chris Youé on why he considered De Bethune an auction high-flier of the future on page 140, along with a few more tips from both Phillips and Fellows on what’s hot right now on page 40. Don’t worry though, it’s not all about watches – though if you do feel that way you’re probably reading the wrong magazine. Our resident style editor Nick Carvell takes us through his picks for the wardrobe staples every man should invest in on page 113. For anyone who’s lockdown outfits have trended more towards staying in your PJs, we have that covered too, on page 104. To round off your now ever-growing portfolio of luxury goods, we look at some of the most interesting alternative luxury investments out there, ranging from classic cars (British marques are on the up) to investment in far-flung locations, be that the pacific islands or the Baltics. All of that and more on page 86. Finally, with all this talk of luxury goods, watches, cars, whisky and the like, it’s easy to overlook the thing most worth investing in: yourself. Lockdown’s given many of us the time and inclination to learn new skills (anyone want to try my hot sauce?) and with so many virtual courses and masterclasses out there, now is the time to do it. Check out our picks on page 125 to get yourself started. It’s even more fun than watching short-selling hedge fund managers cry. As ever, stay safe, stay sane and enjoy this issue. Sam Kessler, Editor

KEEP IN TOUCH: @oracle_time | @oracle_time | facebook.com/oracleoftime | oracleoftime.com

ORACLE TIME #70

CONTRIBUTORS WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk

Nick Carvell

Style Editor-At-Large A lifelong fan of double denim (even triple on occasion), Nick started his career as the launch Social Media Editor of mrporter. com before leaving to become Associate Style Editor of British GQ, then Editor of London men’s magazine The Jackal. Today he’s a freelance menswear and grooming writer based in Bedfordshire – as well as his most important role to date, Style Editor at Large for Oracle Time.

SUB EDITOR

James Dowling

Dan Mobbs danmobbs@hotmail.com

James began collecting wristwatches around 35 years ago and writing about them a decade later; his third book, this one on the Hans Wilsdorf years at Rolex in London and Geneva will be published in the New Year. His recent pronouncement that quartz timekeeping was the most important horological advance of the 20th Century has seen him ostracised from almost all polite watch circles. But still he persists.

JUNIOR COPYWRITER

Michael Sonsino michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Kirsty Illingworth kirsty@opulentmedia.co.uk DIRECTORS

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk

Justin Hast

Aidy Smith

Describing himself as “unreasonably optimistic and deeply curious”, multihyphenate creative Mr Justin Hast is a photographer, writer and consultant with an impressive portfolio of brands under his belt, including the likes of Drake’s, Leica, IWC and Asprey.

is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers. He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped. “I’ll be heading straight back to the Maldives as soon as physically possible. Just a shame I didn’t get stranded there in the first place!”

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4615

George Parker george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4616 ACCOUNT MANAGER

Themba Wirz themba@opulentmedia.co.uk 0208 057 1140 OT MAGAZINE is published monthly by Opulent Media 020 7871 4615

Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

ORACLE TIME #70

CONTENTS

OT M AG A ZINE / ISSUE 70

63 — THE ULTIMATE INVESTMENT WATCHES

20 — AFICIONADO

We reveal what’s on our radar and what should be on your shopping list this month

We countdown the best watches that are more than desirable, they’re valuable too

28 — NEWS

A round-up of the latest happenings in luxury living and, of course, the best in horology

38 — 5711

As the legendary Nautilus bows out we look at what that means for collectors

40 — AUCTION

We talk to London’s leading auctioneers about the watches that are hot now

If you thought the Rolex Daytona was hard to get hold of, try waiting up to 10 years for a 5711/1A 5711 — p38

ORACLE TIME #70

CONTENTS

50 — CROWN INVESTMENTS

Rolex guru James Dowling on everything you need to know about the watch with a crown

82 — WINE FOR THE AGES

If you can avoid the temptation there’s money to be made from your favourite tipple

86 — ALTERNATIVE INVESTMENTS

Watches aren’t the only thing you should be investing in

104 — PYJAMA PARTY

Tear up the dress code rule book and wear pyjamas 24/7

113 — YOUR ARMOURY Unearthing that new layered look for when lockdown is finally lifted

125 — INVEST IN YOURSELF

It’s time to take care of yourself and we have all you need to start right away

140

133 — WATCH REVIEWS

104

One could be forgiven for thinking that buying a Rolex is like finding one of Willy Wonka’s golden tickets Crown Investments — p50

43 — MAN OF INFLUENCE

George Bamford talks timepieces, coffee and conference call faux pas

47 — THE ORACLE SPEAKS

An essential guide to extraterrestrial watch dials

125

The OT take on models from Grand Seiko and Piaget

140 — UNSUNG VINTAGE

Often overlooked De Bethune’s distinctive creations are future vintage

145 — IN FOCUS

Blanchet, Kurono and Ikepod are all put under the spotlight

155 – MICROBRAND CORNER What’s new in the world of the small-scale?

160 – MOVIE WATCH

In the investment issue it has to be The Big Short

FRONT — aficionado

edited by: KIRSTY ILLINGWORTH

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

FRONT — aficionado

LONGINES AVIGATION BIGEYE

When making a new watch based on a heritage design, it’s common practice for big brands to search their collections for reference models. The reference chronograph model from the 1930s that Longines used for this BigEye, named for its over-sized 30-minute timer, is something of an anomaly as there are no records of Longines ever producing such a watch. However, its immediate popularity in 2017 led to this reissue with some great quality of life improvements. £2,970, find out more at Longines

FRONT — aficionado

TROPHY HUNTING

Land Rover have a long history of winning endurance competions and making incredible expeditions, and now that’s an experience you can be a part of. The Land Rover Defender Works V8 Trophy is a limited edition vehicle, redesigned to emulate classic expedition cars from the past, such as the Camel. The owners of the 25 cars will be invited to Land Rover’s testing grounds at Eastnor Castle to compete in an off-roading adventure and competion for prizes – earning your Trophy a trophy.

Prices from £195,000, order direct from Land Rover Classic

FRONT — aficionado

GREAT RAIL JOURNEYS

We’ve been stuck at home on and off for an entire year now and while many of us would like to get abroad as soon as possible, there are plenty of adventures to be had at home. Great Rail Journeys offer a diverse range of tours covering every part of the UK, from the Outer Hebrides to the Isles of Scilly. Each tour comes with luxury accommodation and meals included and has some of the best vistas to be seen from the tracks.

Prices vary depending on the tour between £500 and £4,000 per person

FRONT — aficionado

SAFARI IN STYLE

There has long been a debate over whether function or design should take precedence when designing a new piece of fashion. Private White’s response is to say why not both? This safari inspired wax twin track jacket in olive has utility coming out of its pockets and there are a lot of those, at least six by my counting. At the same time, the removable planket means you can adjust the size for a slimline look that’s as dapper as they come. £795 from Private White

FRONT — aficionado

LIVING ROOM CONCERTS

It’s fair to say we’re all waiting with baited-breath for live performances to start again in music venues and at concerts. Steinway & Sons has developed Spirio | r. It allows piano legends to record their performances and share them to be played back on other pianos equipped with their clever technology. The library now consists of over 4,000 performances – effectively allowing for ‘live’ performances in the comfort of your home. The latest model to feature this system is the Black Masterpiece piano. The Black Masterpiece Piano is £262,500 from Steinway & Sons

FRONT — aficionado

GREEN WITH ENVY

Ireland; the land of Celtic traditions, jaw-dropping scenery and of course whiskey. The country’s potential for inspiration is limitless and Fabergé and The Craft Irish Whiskey Co have come together to celebrate everything Irish with their Emerald Isle Collection. The seven-piece set includes a Celtic themed egg from Fabergé, two bottles of unbelievably rare, 30-year-old, triple distilled whiskey and a Fabergé Altruist timepiece – plus more! The collection is designed with ‘The Seven Wonders of Ireland’ in mind and it’s undoubtedly wonder-full. The experience box will be sold via private auctions starting in spring. For more information, visit The Craft Irish Whiskey Co

SPORT-LUXE ON THE SEAS

Luxury and high performance shouldn’t be mutually exclusive and the Pershing 7x yacht from Ventura combines the two seamlessly. It’s the fastest boat in the Pershing fleet with a max speed of 50 knots, that’s 57mph! But while you’re cruising away, you can enjoy its carefully designed lounge areas fore and aft, as well as its three suites below deck and airy indoor saloon with large, glazed windows on all sides. Get me to the sun-soaked riviera now! For information on pricing and availability contact Ventura

FRONT — aficionado

8000 PLANES LATER

The Cirrus SR series has been considered one of the best easy-to-fly planes on the market since 1999 and to celebrate the 8,000th aircraft in the series being produced, the company has released a limited edition version called the 8000 Limited Edition SR. And they mean limited, only eight of the special aircraft will be produced. The planes will come with new paint jobs and interiors, using a unique Volt design and colour scheme of neon green throughout. The price of the new Limited Edition is still in the air, so keep an eye on cirrusaircraft.com for more information

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS

LV BY APPOINTMENT The pandemic has been hard for everyone, especially those poor souls that have had to order their favourite Parisian fashion *gasp* online. Well never fear, for those good Samaritans aren’t letting such a travesty pass by unanswered – at least in California. The luxury giant has recently launched LV by Appointment, where the label is setting loose a fleet of mobile boutiques to bring their latest collections directly to your door, all in your sizes and based on your preferences. If that sounds too good to be true, for us here in the UK it unfortunately is. Hopefully though, if their California trial run goes smoothly, there could be an LV-branded trailer with your name on it parking up sometime soon. Keep an eye on uk.louisvuitton.com for more information

ROGER SMITH’S 100TH WATCH

[LV] is setting loose a fleet of mobile boutiques to bring their collections to your door

Some watchmakers measure their output in the millions; many more in the thousands. Roger Smith, inarguably Britain’s finest watchmaker, produces barely five

pieces a year. In fact, this month marks his 100th watch since launching his eponymous Isle of Man manufacture back in 2001. The watch in question is Roger’s most complicated to date, the Series 4, is equipped with an innovative triple calendar and finished to a level that will have collectors scrambling to get one of their own. After a healthy wait, of course. rwsmithwatches.com

This month marks his 100th watch since launching back in 2001

FRONT — world news

THE FIRST 3D-PRINTED RIB-EYE Lab-grown meat still isn’t the tastiestsounding thing in the world and conjures up thoughts of greyish maybe-meat that’s as close to a cow as a McDonald’s chicken nugget is to coq au vin. Well, be prepared to change your mind – at least according to the handful of critics that have so far tasted Aleph Farms’ new slaughter-free Rib-Eye. Sure it’s a little odd-looking, but apparently the Israeli company’s new steak, 3D printed using lab-grown protein, is tender and juicy. It’s not yet on the market, but there’s a chance that a trendy haute cuisine restaurant near you may well be trying them out soon. Likely for a bit of a premium, of course. Find out more at aleph-farms.com

ONE TO WATCH:

OAKLEIGH WATCHES ‘Pre-owned’ has long since stopped being a dirty word in watches. In fact, with availability ever scarcer on some of the most coveted models out there, it presents an opportunity. Enter Oakleigh Watches, whose personal, personalised experience has helped connect many a connoisseur to their perfect Rolex watch. Not only is their own stock seriously impressive, but their watch concierge will help source any specific model you have in mind, as well as offering dating and servicing for watches you already own. Just be warned, if you see something you like there’s no guarantee it’ll stick around. So to be the first to get a glimpse of Oakleigh’s latest stock, make sure to follow them on Instagram @oakleighwatches

JAGUAR LAND ROVER GOES ELECTRIC If you were still of the opinion that electric vehicles were just a passing fad then you’ll want to hear this. As part of their ‘Reimagine’ global strategy, the marque behind Jaguar and Land Rover both have insisted that by 2036 their entire line-up will be electric. On the Jaguar side that’s not too big a surprise after the success of the E-Pace, but Land Rover? Well, to answer any doubts, 2024 will see the Jaguar and Land first ever fully-electric Land Rover model, which Rover insist that will begin the landslide shift towards clean energy. Details are still relatively tight on the by 2036 their car in question, but if it still has that famous, entire line-up rugged four-wheel drive then sign us up. will be electric Find out more at landrover.co.uk

FRONT — world news

THE MCLAREN ARTURA This is one we’ve been waiting for: McLaren’s first ever series-production highperformance hybrid supercar, the Artura. The new car isn’t just an older model with a new powertrain, it’s entirely built from the ground-up with dual performance in mind. That means an entirely new carbon lightweight architecture specifically designed for the new layout and some of most responsive power ever brought to bear on the track. To put that into numbers, the Artura can sprint 0-100km/h in 3.0 seconds;

This being a McLaren, sheer power is paired with track-born agility

0-200km/h in 8.3 seconds; and 0-300km/h in 21.5 seconds. That’s just a little terrifying. This being a McLaren, that sheer power is paired with the kind of track-born agility that the British marque has made their name with, although there are also practical concerns too. For one, the Artura can go into full electric mode, with 30km range, and the electrical architecture of the car allows Over the Air updates, integrated stolen vehicle tracking and ‘future upgrades’, whatever they may be. While the Artura may look and feel like a limited-run, ultra-rare hybrid that’s not actually the case. With prices starting at £185,500, you’re getting a lot of adrenalinespiked motor for your money. cars.mclaren.co

GP JOINS THE GRAND PRIX Every team has their watch sponsor except, perhaps, one of the most exciting, relatively recent additions to the starting grid: Aston Martin. Well, now that’s set to change as Swiss watchmaker Girard-Perregaux of Golden Bridges fame is now officially the British team’s timekeeper. While the two marques don’t have all that much in common, they together have built some iconic machines over the decades – or in Girard-Perregaux’s case, centuries – and we’re looking forward to what the inevitable limited edition timepiece entails. A British racing green Laureato perhaps? girard-perregaux.com

FRONT — world news

GLAMPING IN THE UK Camping’s going to be one of the first things we’ll be allowed to do once lockdown begins to lift, but that doesn’t mean a leaky tent and chemical toilets. Kymani Getaways is bringing a healthy dose of Safari-style luxury to the glamping scene with traditional bell tents and a locally sourced fine-dining experience. Tastefully scattered across Surrey, Suffolk, Wiltshire and Hampshire, what better way to enjoy our beautiful British countryside? After all, it’s not like we’ll be going anywhere else any time soon. Prices start at £395 per tent based on two sharing and inclusive of breakfast and dinner. kymanigetaways.com

Camping’s going to be one of the first things we’ll be allowed to do once lockdown lifts, but that doesn’t mean a leaky tent and chemical toilets

GUESS T H E WATCH The icon of last issue celebrating it’s 90th anniversary is, of course, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. If you really want to delve into the story behind the watch, check out our YouTube channel for our video on the subject.

As for this issue, we decided to opt for one of our favourite modern classics in the making, a timepiece with some serious seventies, sports luxe swagger in its DNA. If you need some more help, check out our picks for the best Investment Watches and you’ll see its hugely underrated predecessor.

what is the

WATCH

What is the watch? CHECK BACK NEXT ISSUE FOR THE ANSWER Think you’ve got it? Email your guess to our editor at sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk for a chance to win a free print subscription.

FRONT — alliance to watch

Oracle Time X The Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers

EVERY INDUSTRY WORTH its salt deserves a mouthpiece, one through which it can yell loud and proud about just how exceptional they are. Case in point, the British watch industry, which has made huge strides over the past few years in becoming one of the most vibrant, creative and driven havens of horology there is. Ranging from creative, fashion-forward designs to accessible watchmaking to serious haute horology, British watches no longer means just one thing. Now, more than ever, they need a body to promote exactly what we can do here on home shores. That body is the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. Despite British watchmaking being on the rise for some time now, the Alliance is very new. Founded by Mike France of Christopher Ward, Alistair Audsley of the GREAT Britain campaign and Roger Smith of… well, Roger Smith, the Alliance is dedicated to promoting British watch and clock making both at home and abroad. That doesn’t just mean giving a voice to the industry as a whole, but actively campaigning to encourage British supplychain, technology and jobs in watchmaking;

champion homegrown provenance and get the word out that Britain is once again one of the most important centres for horological excellence in the world. As Roger Smith puts it, “It’s an exciting time because we have this real opportunity to forge our own vision of how watchmaking should be in Britain today in the 21st century. If we can all start sharing our experiences, learning from each other, working out ways we can help each other, there’s no limit to what we can achieve. Above all, our founding of this Alliance is an invitation to watch collectors and horology enthusiasts all over the world to join us and be part of this exciting journey.” To that end, the Alliance has begun to put together a series of virtual events, dubbed Open Dial, where British watch and

“It’s an exciting time because we have this real opportunity to forge our own vision of how watchmaking should be in Britain” 32

clockmakers give insights into their work. Once we’re out of lockdown, you can expect plenty of in-person events to compliment the digital, and get-togethers for seasoned collectors and horological newcomers both. Just grab a Club Membership and you’ll have access to the best British watchmaking has to offer. It’s obviously struck a chord with British watch brands as nearly 50 of them are now part of the alliance. As the only leading British watch and luxury lifestyle magazine in Britain, it’s also struck a chord with us here at Oracle Time, too. Which is why we’re very proud to announce that Oracle Time is now the official media partner of the Alliance of British Watch and Clockmakers. So, consider us you number one stop for all British watchmaking news. We will be providing all Alliance members with a free annual subscription to our print magazine – that’s 10 issues a year worth £60. For more information on the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, and to purchase a Club Membership, visit britishwatchmakers.com

FRONT — introducing

NEWS

INTRO DUCING IN DETAIL

44mm Platinumtech case with 50m water resistance • P.9010 calibre automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve • £34,500, panerai.com •

PANERAI

Luminor Marina Platinumtech

As if their cutting-edge takes on carbon fibre and basalt weren’t enough, now Panerai has introduced a new string to their composite bow in the form of Platinumtech. No prizes for guessing what the main ingredient is. A scratch-resistant form of the precious metal, Platinumtech makes up the case of this particularly handsome, greendialled Luminor Marina, turning what should be a risky daily wear proposition into something a lot more versatile. It’s a looker, too.

FRONT — introducing

BREITLING

Top Time Deus Limited Edition

Back in 2020 Breitling re-launched a classic model from the 1960s, the Top Time and it was a truly landmark moment for the brand, seeing the return of a legend. With the return of a classic like the Top Time, you of course get limited edition collaborations and here we have the new Breitling Top Time Deus Limited Edition, ready to help you shred rubber on a motorbike or kill some waves on a surfboard.

OMEGA

Seamaster 300m America’s Cup Chronograph

Last summer Omega launched their annual tribute to the America’s Cup, a striking, white-dialled Planet Ocean in the race’s signature livery of red, white and blue. But when has just one special edition ever been enough? Now they’re running the same gambit with the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup Chronograph, and it’s more than just an aesthetic tweak.

IN DETAIL

• 44mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • 9900 automatic movement with 60hour power reserve • £8,800, omegawatches.com

IN DETAIL

• 41mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • Calibre 23 automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve • £4,100, limited to 1,500 pieces, breitling.com

MICHEL HERBELIN

Cap Camarat Automatic

Built for the coast and inspired by the glamour and joie de vivre of the French Riviera, Michel Herbelin’s latest colourful take on their sports luxe Cap Camarat is a patriotic horological echo of the tricolore. Paired with a rugged stainless steel case with its signature industrial bezel, 100m water resistance and a dial like a yacht deck, it’s perfectly suited for a jaunt along the Cote d’Azur.

IN DETAIL

resistance

•

• 440.5mm stainless steel case with 100m water Sellita 111/2 SW200-1 Automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £710, michel-herbelin.com

FRONT — introducing

ORIS

Whale Shark Limited Edition

Oris’ Change for Better mission statement has seen the watchmaker create many an environmentally-focused limited edition and this handsome if slightly fishy take on the Aquis GMT is one of the most handsome. Both its uniquely textured dial and engraved caseback pay homage to the endangered giant of the deep that is the majestic whale shark, photographic subject of Oris brand ambassador Gerardo del Villar, making for an evocative (not that) limited edition.

IN DETAIL

43.50mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Calibre Oris 798 with 42-hour power reserve • £2,250, limited to 2,016 pieces, oris.ch •

GREUBEL FORSEY GMT

Quadruple Tourbillon Titanium

The original GMT Quadruple Tourbillon was an absolute beast of haute horology, released back in 2019 with one version and one version only. It was also incredibly heavy. Wearability now seems very much on the agenda for the brand as the GMT Quadruple Tourbillon is available in titanium, reducing its weight by a full third, and pairing it with a bright flash of blue on the dial.

IN DETAIL •

46.5mm titanium case with 30m water resistance •

Greubel Forsey inhouse calibre with 72hour power reserve •

CHF 760,000 (approx. £605,000), limited to 11 pieces, greubelforsey.com

FRONT — 5711

Words:

Sam Kessler

the

DISCONTINUATION of the

5711

AS THE LEGENDARY STEEL NAUTILUS ENDS ITS 15-YEAR PRODUCTION RUN, WHAT DOES THAT MEAN FOR COLLECTORS?

If you think of a Patek Philippe Nautilus, the likelihood is that it’s the Ref. 5711 that pops into your head. Originally revealed back in 2005 as a large and uncomplicated successor to the original Jumbo model, the release of the 5711/1A coincided with the 30th anniversary of the Gerald Genta design. It was a bit more muscular than previous models, complete with a larger crown and ‘ears’; it gained a sweeping seconds hand and traded the previously dark, dark blue dial with the brighter, steel blue variant that’s since helped it become one of the most desirable Patek Philippes in existence. Which, let’s be honest, is saying a lot. It’s one of the very few watches that, far from depreciating, will actually set you back a good deal more on the pre-owned market than its retail price of around Euro 30,000. That’s if you can even find one, of course. As Patek’s CEO Thierry Stern has said on many an occasion, “we cannot put a single watch on top of our pyramid,” and that means not just pumping out their most soughtafter watch. That has meant that wait lists for this bad boy are legendary. If you thought the Rolex Daytona was hard to get hold of, try waiting up to 10 years for a 5711/1A. Given only 30% of Patek’s output is steel watches and that this is by far their most popular model, it makes a certain tragic sense. Perhaps the greater tragedy though is that the wait list is about to get longer.

Infinitely longer in fact, as Patek Philippe has recently announced that they are discontinuing the Nautilus 5177/1A. That’s right, after a decade and a half of producing arguably the most desirable watch on the planet, the reference is calling it quits. The big question then is why? Why would Patek Philippe stop making something that’s so obviously working for them? While the question is still hanging in the air right now, it all depends on what the watchmaker does over the next few months. The most likely scenario is a new watch that follows much the same lines at the 5711. There needs to be that larger, more muscular steel model to fill in the gaps between the high complications, gold references and smaller sizes. Given the industry’s propensity for retro and vintage touches, they could go for something even closer to the original 3700 model of 1976, which would be an easy win. I can’t imagine Patek will deviate too much otherwise, perhaps offering a new movement or slightly refined dial instead of something completely out-there. As for what this means for current 5711s… well, the sky’s the limit. Even

while it was in production, you could get that iconic steel Nautilus and sell it on the same day for a 100% increase. Now that the numbers are capped, it might be the last time anyone can feasibly get hold of one. As things currently stand, things have gone predictably nuts. Many pre-owned dealers have 5711s listed for as high as £100,000 – over three times the retail price of the watch – and that’s just the early sellers. As the watch gets scarcer, expect prices to get even higher. The big question on the tip of every watch lover’s tongue though is a simple one: why? This is like putting down a Grand National winner. Well, the theories are absolutely everywhere, from artificial inflation (unlikely given how unnecessary that would be) to it simply being time for the watchmaker to move on. I’m more inclined towards the latter. Patek has never wanted to just be the brand that builds the 5711 and with so many Millennial collectors opting for earlier designs from the 60s and 70s, it’s a good time to revamp the 2005 classic into something potentially more retro. Of course, it’s not as simple as just cutting off the 5711 immediately. According to Stern, the watch will be doing a “victory lap” before being relegated to the annals of horological history and it won’t be “what was left in the pipeline.” That seems to be code for a limited-edition swan song, though Patek are being typically tight-lipped on the subject. If that is the case though, it’ll be one of the single most desirable watches ever made – and that’s even compared to the base 5711. Whatever the end result though, the fact is that this is the biggest story in watchmaking right now. If you’re a 5711 owner, well done, you’ve won watch collecting. In the meantime, I’m content to sit back and watch the fervour build and the insanity unfold. And, of course, think about what else I can drop 30K on. A Moser perhaps?

If you thought the Rolex Daytona was hard to get hold of, try waiting up to 10 years for a 5711/1A 39

CULTURE — auction

Auction Watch We talk to some of London’s leading watch auctioneers about the timepieces that are hot right now

CULTURE — auction

THE AUCTION YEAR has begun in earnest with many a virtual sale from even the biggest auction houses. Indeed, auctions are quickly becoming the go-to place for discerning collectors to find their grail pieces. Rather than highlighting the latest Paul Newman to hit bidders though, we thought we’d look a bit more at where auction tastes are heading. Surprise surprise though, let’s start with Rolex. If there’s one brand you can guarantee doing well at auction, it’s the Coronet, and the hype train doesn’t look like it’s slowing down any time soon. “Currently, we are finding that the market for Rolex ‘tool’ watches is hot,” explains Steven Yambo, Senior Specialist for the Watch Department at Fellows Auctioneers. “By ‘tool’ watches I mean the GMT format, Submariner and Daytona. The style of these pieces are very much in vogue and we have seen strong prices for both vintage models as well as the newer models.” Because Rolex collectors tend to be some of the most discriminating out there though, not just any GMT-Master II or Sub will do. As Steven says, “originality is all important. Collectors value the watch being as close to as it was originally produced as possible and will pay a premium for this, after market or service items such as dials, bezels, hands and bracelets will vastly impact the price. With the newer Rolex ‘tool’ watches the limited availability has fuelled the demand. People cannot get hold of them so people will pay a premium over the list price just to get one.” It makes sense. We’ve all heard about the wait lists for various Rolex models and if you want it now, you’re going to need to pay through the nose – which for many a collector is worth it. It’s not all about the big guns though; as James Marks of Phillips points out, cool, cutting-edge independents are getting in on the limelight, too. “As brands such as F P Journe become increasingly mainstream with huge social media presence,” explains Marks, “collectors are looking towards the value of lesser-known independents with a strong history and defined sense of quality. With experienced collectors now relishing their perceived wisdom in buying Philippe Dufour Simplicities that

embody the greatness of Vallee De Joux watchmaking I wonder if references such as the Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Escapement wristwatch become increasingly attractive opportunities. With limited production and ties to the great George Daniels and Derek Pratt these lesser-known artisan watchmakers seem to have the DNA for future stardom.” So you have Rolex tool watches which are all but guaranteed to do well, provided they’re in original condition and you have independents rising through the ranks with seriously limited doses of haute horology. What’s next? Cartier, apparently. As Marks rightly says, “the Crash has reignited collectors’ appreciation of Cartier, which is a brand we have longed believed should be attracting further interest from collectors for their understated elegance and design. Limited editions with rarely found colourways such as the Platinum Tank Americaine for the Italian market or the simply unique Cintree are both superb wristwatches, but as close to design icons for dress watches as the Daytona is for sports.”

“People cannot get hold of them so people will pay a premium over the list price just to get one” A Rolex is guaranteed to do well at auction (below, right) as is a Cartier (below) thanks to the Crash, but it’s the Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Escapement (left) that’s tipped for future stardom

Finally, every era of watchmaking has a definitive timepiece like the Royal Oak was for the sporting luxury of the seventies. So, when the annals of watch history are written anew, what will it be for the 21st century? “In more ways than one,” says Marks, “Richard Mille defined what watchmaking in the early part of the 21st century would look like. In 2001, a year later after the launch of its first wristwatch, Mille presented the RM002 a feat of engineering and technology and it is these early references that are now seen as one of the corner stones of modern collectible wristwatches.” So, to put all of that into context, Rolex tool watches are buoyant as ever, independents are in their ascendency and Cartier is back on top in the wake of the only good Crash. Pair that with Richard Mille’s potential position as a definitive watch of the era and you have more than enough to get to those auctions – referring of course, to our comprehensive calendar of sales last issue- and get bidding. Good luck to you!

FRONT — george bamford

WORDS:

SAM KESSLER

MEN OF INFLUENCE:

GEORGE BAMFORD WE TALK TO THE BRITISH CUSTOM WATCH GIANT ABOUT TIMEPIECES, COFFEE AND CONFERENCE CALL FAUX PAS

FRONT — george bamford

ANY CONVERSATION with George Bamford is a bit of a whirlwind. Whether it’s the recent Laureato Ghost, the, let’s say, divisive Coffee-dialled number with Black Badger or the launch of Bamford Watch Department’s own, accessible GMTs – back when face-to-face events were still a thing – he’s a man with about as many pies as he has fingers to put them in. So while most of us are content to let the malaise of lockdown get us down, how is one of the most connected men in watchmaking coping with isolation? “Arabic coffee, mainly. I don’t drink coffee as a rule, but I was introduced to the Arabic and the aroma, the flavour is beautiful. I make myself one of these every day” he says, holding up a twolitre coffee thermos. Sure, anyone that’s tried that rich, Turkish-style coffee knows it’s a heartattack in the making, but George Bamford’s never done things in halves. Not only is he one of the most connected men in the watch industry, but the list of projects he seems to be pumping out shows that, in creativity at

least, lockdown seems to be agreeing with him. “I’m still in the office a lot of the time,” he explains, “but we’ve been getting things done quicker than ever before. It used to be that I’d need to arrange a face-to-face meeting, go through all the legwork of sitting down and chatting. Now I can call a supplier halfway round the world, loop them in with my creative team working from home and have designs ready to be turned into watches by the end of the day!” To put that into context, Bamford’s newest launch, coming in the summer, was put together in just six months. That’s intense. Where most of us seem to be flagging a little, creatively speaking, obviously, George still seems to be finding plenty to inspire him. Including pastries. “I went to the Connaught the other day and right next door they’ve got this wonderful patisserie. It’s the most beautiful design with marble tables cut in a certain way and I didn’t know it launched during lockdown. I went in there, mask on of course, and despite

George Bamford - a man with about as many pies as he has fingers to put them in

Where most of us seem to be flagging a little, creatively speaking, obviously, George still seems to be finding plenty to inspire him 44

not eating sugar I just had to buy stuff, I was so inspired. It’s all about these little glimmers of wonderfulness.” Not that it’s all been plain sailing of course; working remotely is all well and good but we’ve all been privy to a disastrous conference call or two. At least with George’s virtual horror story it was less of a tech issue, more of a… let’s say issue of taste. “I used to work for Rankin and some of those guys back when I was a photographer and I used to collect photographs. Whenever I got paid for work I used to buy art. Well, I was in a very, very, very serious meeting and I had that in the background,” he says, turning the camera so that an artfully monochrome bit of nudity enters frame. “I didn’t notice until halfway through, one of the participants WhatsApped me to ask if I knew I had a naked woman behind me!” We’ve all been there haven’t we? No? Ok then. So, what would the equivalent now be? What does George Bamford splurge on every time he signs a new horological deal? “Watches of course! Whatever catches my eye at the time, whatever’s come up in conversation recently. I was with Davide from Montblanc and we were talking about Gerald Genta designs, going through them all and especially the Ingenieur. The first ones, the quartz movement ones and, you know, how Gerald Genta was this great designer. Everyone goes on about the black dials but I love the silver and lately has been a voyage of discovery phase for me.” Evidently George has taken the last year in his stride, with an ever-growing range of pieces under his own name, greater customisation options for those under others and what sounds like a creative process that’s somehow more productive than ever. It’s good to know then that he, like the rest of us, is looking forward to getting back to normality. “I like being at home, but I never want to be stuck at home ever again. I was driving into London Monday morning – I normally leave home at around 5:45 – and I was so happy to be stuck in traffic. I sat in a queue for 45 minutes thinking, this feels fucking amazing, what’s wrong with me?”

FRONT — ask the oracle

THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained

[The Meteoric Rise of ExtraTerrestrial Watch Dials]

A few million years ago, a chunk of nickel-iron alloy was hurling through space on a collision course with Earth. Nothing too bad happened though as when it landed in the prehistoric era, it wasn’t the one that killed the dinosaurs. Instead, it sat in Namibia for a few millennia until the local Nama people discovered it. People being people, they soon started to make weapons out of it and by 1836 there was enough of it being used to pique the interest of Englishman J. E. Alexander. Brits being Brits, he collected up as much as he could find and took it back to London where its origins were analysed. It became the Gibeon Meteorite and over the next couple of centuries 33 fragments were collected. Of the three types of meteorite – stony, stonyiron and iron – Gibeon, it turns out, was the latter. Cut open one of those fragments and we’re greeted with an array of metallic, geometric lines dubbed the Widmanstätten pattern, unique to each meteorite and formed as the metal has cooled over millions of years.

When most people look at it, they see something formed over millions of years, a miracle of astrophysical metallurgy. Rolex on the other hand, saw a funky dial. That’s right, Rolex were the first brand to ever use meteorite in their watches and it was that very Gibeon meteorite that crowned their … well, it’s actually all but impossible to find out, even from the keepers of the Crown themselves. But since then, the Gibeon in particular has formed the dials of many watches over the years, which might sound like a tall order. But given how thin a meteorite dial actually is, there’s a lot of mileage in a single celestial rock, meaning it’s not nearly as rare as one might expect. It also has some practical applications. Not only is the patterning unique to each dial – something every watchmaker using meteorite is very, very careful to point out – but the Gibeon is naturally corrosion-resistant thanks to its high nickel content. It’s like it was meant to be a watch dial. It is quite pricey though. The Swedish equivalent however, the Muonionalusta, isn’t. Despite looking very similar, it lacks the nickel content of the Gibeon. That means rather than being resistant to rust, the Muonionalusta is the opposite. It’s incredibly quick to oxidise, to the point that it often needs to be plated to survive. If you see a cheap watch using meteorite – or meteorite jewellery on Etsy – it’s likely to be this. Either way though, working with meteorite isn’t easy and just cutting a rock open won’t do much. Like any fine stone or woodworking, it’s all about cutting a cross-section to get the best grain. From there, you need to bring out the contrast with a bit of chemical etching. Nickel, being more corrosion resistant, stays as it is, while the iron-heavy aspects brighten, giving you the clear Widmanstätten pattern on most meteorite watch dials. Now, while these kinds of extra-solar meteorites do indeed make up the majority of watch dials, there are others out there, ones which look considerably different than most. Last year, for example, Hermes brought out two variations on their superlative Arceau L’Heure De La Lune, one using a meteorite from the moon, another from Mars. As these haven’t formed over the same kind of timeframes as Gibeon and Muonionalusta, they’re lacking the signature geometric patterns and

FRONT — ask the oracle

Hermes’ Arceau L’Heure De La Lune was launched in two variations, one with meteorite from the moon (pictured) and the other from Mars

FRONT — ask the oracle

“ Given how thin a meteorite dial actually is, there’s a lot of mileage in a single celestial rock, meaning it’s not nearly as rare as one might expect ” instead just kind of look like pretty rocks. Which is in essence what they are. The Lunar meteorite is speckled black and grey while the Martian meteorite has a distinctive green tint. They also did one in Black Sahara, but as nobody seems to know where that particular rock is from – other than out of this world – it’s hard to comment. All three are deadly serious watches, but it’s good to see that in recent years many more watchmakers have been dabbling in the alien. Back in 2019, those halcyon days when we could still travel, Piaget’s Watches and Wonders presentation was dominated by a gold-plated meteorite dialled Altiplano and its anthracite sibling. They had the same sort of patterning, but with two completely different looks. If you’re more a traditionalist of course you can opt for Omega’s updated Moonwatch 321 with its tasteful meteorite subdials, or, to bring things full circle, the Rolex GMT-Master II in white gold and bright, beautiful meteorite. Either way, it took millions of years for these lumps of metal to work their way through the cosmos to get to us, cooling slowly as they went before hurling into our atmosphere. It’s good to know we’re making the most of them.

Piaget’s meteorite dialled Altiplano (top, right) is out of this world, while Omega’s updated Moonwatch 321 (below) with its meteorite subdials and the Rolex GMT-Master II (top, left) in bright meteorite offer a lunar alternative

FRONT — crown investments

CROWN INVESTMENTS ROLEX GURU JAMES DOWLING ON INVESTING IN THE WATCH WITH THE CROWN, PAST, PRESENT AND JUST MAYBE, FUTURE

WORDS:

JAMES DOWLING

FRONT — crown investments

Rolex watches have been a pricing rollercoaster this century collectability, desirability, fashion and interest rates all playing their part

One could be forgiven for thinking that buying a Rolex is like finding one of Willy Wonka’s golden tickets 52

LOOKING AT RECENT AUCTION results for vintage Rolex Daytonas and at the secondary market asking prices for most Rolex sports watches, one could be forgiven for thinking that buying a Rolex is like finding one of Willy Wonka’s golden tickets. However, this is not necessarily always the case, and buyers should always take care to remember the line seen in most financial advertisements: “past performance is not an indicator of future performance.” What is absent from most discussions about collectability and desirability is the role played by fashion and the most important thing to understand about fashion, is that – by its very nature – it is ephemeral and always changing. To the casual viewer, it might seem that what we see today is the way it has always been - far from it. For example, 25 years ago, the most desirable and valuable Rolex watches were the Bubbleback and the Prince. I remember attending a 1999 auction in New York, where one page of the catalogue showed five Rolex chronographs: a black dial pre-Daytona, two Screw pusher Daytonas and a pair of 6239 Paul Newman Daytonas; with one black and one white dial. The pre Daytona had an estimate of $3,000 but didn’t sell, the Screw pusher Daytonas hammered at just over $4,000 each and the Paul Newmans at $8,750 apiece. Right now the value of those models is $150,000, $75,000 each and $275,000 respectively. An investment of around $30,000 then would have appreciated by over 2,000%. Which would lead one to believe that an astute buyer at that sale would have done very, very well. But be careful what you say. I was at the sale and purchased two Rolex Bubblebacks, at an investment of around $12,000. If I still had those watches and wanted to sell them now, I would be lucky to get half of what I paid. However, the subsequent price history of the abovementioned chronographs should serve as a warning to anyone thinking that investing in Rolex is a guaranteed earner. Prices rose in the early noughts, peaking in 2006/7 and dropping in the next few years, until 2010 where they stood at around 50% of what they were in 2006. But, by 2012 they had regained their 2006 peak, and since then the trend has moved constantly upwards, with the current value now more than four times what it was in 2010. The watches remain the same, so what can justify this pricing rollercoaster? The answer is simple – there is a world outside watches and it has an effect on everything.

FRONT — xxxxxx

Paul Newman Daytonas 6241 (left) and 6239 (right).

FRONT — crown investments

In 2006/7, the first signs emerged of a major problem in the banking world; this reached a crescendo in 2008 when several major banks failed, and many others had to be rescued by governments around the world. Here is a simple fact: watches, particularly vintage ones are discretionary purchases. They are what you buy after your needs for shelter, food, clothing and transportation are met. And many of the people who had ‘invested’ in vintage watches in the early part of this century now found that they needed cash more than they needed the watches. So, there was a surplus of watches coming into the market and the prices simply dropped. However, by 2011 central banks had reduced interest rates to almost zero; so, if you had a decent credit rating, banks were desperate to lend you money. This resulted in massive rises in the value of luxury items which were perceived to have investment potential as well as being signifiers of good taste: classic cars, Hermes Birkin bags, single malt whiskies and, of course, vintage watches. Just be careful as there may be a slight blot on the horizon. There has been a slight decline in the most recent sales results from both vintage cars and single malts. Could it be a sign of things to come for vintage Rolex? Possibly. So, bearing this in mind, here are my ground rules:

RULE 1: Buy what you love and if it increases in value, consider it a bonus. Should it decrease in value, don’t worry - you still have a watch that you love.

RULE 2: It costs as much to service a £2,000 Rolex Oyster as it does to service a £50,000 Rolex Oyster – so always allow for the cost of service, which could be as little as £250 or as much as £500.

Try to find a late model - reference 16000 with polished bezel or the 16014 with white gold faceted bezel - and always try to get an Oyster bracelet, rather than the more common Jubilee. Try to find a linen or other textured dial and in solid colour dials black is the most desirable, followed by blue, then white and then silver. And, unless you specifically want one, I would advise against champagne-coloured dials for investment watches.

ROLEX SUBMARINER Above all I recommended acrylic glass watches in preference to sapphire models, but with the Submariners, the reverse is my preference. The acrylic glass watches are already rocketing upwards in value whilst the sapphire ones still have considerable room to appreciate. There are two versions of the more common earlier no-date Submariner the 5513 and the 5512, the main difference between them is that the 5512 movement is regulated to chronometer standards while the 5513 is not. When they were new the 5512 was 14% more expensive than its companion, but for most folks the 5513 was accurate enough and so far fewer of the 5512s were sold. Nowadays there is between a 20 to 25% difference in the value of the two models and I expect this to increase. A better idea would be to look at the model which immediately followed, the 14060 Submariner - the first with sapphire glass and a 1,000ft depth rating. Just prior to the end of production in 2012, Rolex began to print the chronometer text on the dials of these. Currently these four-line dial text watches sell at almost no differential to the plain dial watches, but I reckon this could change in the future.

ROLEX OYSTERQUARTZ RULE 3: Only buy models which have been discontinued. If you’re speculating, this one should be pretty self-apparent. Once you’ve taken those rules to heart, here are my own personal buying suggestions.

ROLEX DATEJUST Preferably all steel or steel with white gold bezel. Yes, it is the most popular Rolex of all time, but that also means a ready and buoyant market. My advice would be to pick a watch from the 1970s to the late 1980s; these will have the more organic acrylic crystal rather than the clinical sapphire glass.

OK, this is my wild card but please hear me out. For most folks, quartz has no place in a true watch collection, but the Rolex Oysterquartz is not your conventional quartz watch. The movement, like that in every other Rolex, is built in-house and the 11-jewel calibre 3035 is better finished than any of their mechanical movements being the only calibre they ever produced with Geneva Stripes. The case is also different to that of any other Rolex, as it’s much more angular and bearing a passing resemblance to the AP Royal Oak. It has long been discontinued, was produced in quite small quantities for a Rolex and has started being collected. My suggestions are the reference 17000 in steel and the 17014 in steel with a white gold bezel.

RIGHT: Rolex Datejust 16014

LEFT: Rolex Submariner 14060

RIGHT: Rolex Oysterquartz 17014

FRONT — crown investments

ROLEX PRICES

THEN & NOW $

8,750 275,000

15,900 19,500

N EWMA PAUL N

NA DAYTO LE RO

UP %

23%

1990S

9,500 7,000

PRESIDENT DAY-DATE

WN DO 5%

CE RIN

3000

BA CK

BU BB LE

50 %WN

170 % UP

R DA TE

UBM ARIN E

$ $

3,350 9,000

12,000 6,000

disclaimer -values taken from average price data for like references at auction

FRONT — investments

THE U£TIMATE

INV€ST+ =M€NT WATCHE$ Photography: JUSTIN HAST / TOM PETTIT & FRASER VINCENT

Words: SAM KESSLER

If you’ve seen Gamestop in the news recently, you’ll already know that investing can be… fraught. Stocks go up and down on the whims of a few Redditors and short sellers in a way that just reeks of a coming crisis. It’s a good thing then that we here at Oracle Time prefer to funnel our assets into something a little less shaky: watches. Watches have, on the whole, proven a pretty solid investment over the years. According to the diligent experts that put together the Knight Frank Wealth Index, they’ve seen an increase of 89% on average over the past ten years and 5% in the last 12 months. Sure, there are bigger gains elsewhere, but consistency is key and watches have always been a good bet. Of course, investment of any kind is still a bet and you need to know what to look out for in your potential gift horse. So, we have worked with pre-owned luxury retailer Xupes to bring together a selection of serious timepieces that we reckon are as close to sure-fire investments as you can get. Just make sure you also buy what you’d wear. That way, if the timepieces’ stock does plummet for some reason, at least you have a watch you love.

FRONT — investments

Vacheron 222

Launched to celebrate Vacheron Constantin’s 222nd birthday (and fulfil their dire need for a Nautilus equivalent) the 222 was such a fantastic sports luxury timepiece with its integrated bracelet and notched bezel that the Jorg Hysek design is still to this day mistaken for a Gerald Genta original. Fast forward to the present day and the Overseas, which was

developed as a direct aesthetic successor to the 222, is one of Vacheron’s most important timepieces. Needless to say, the original 1970s design is going through a bit of a renaissance. In fact, they’ve been showing up at some of the biggest auctions in the world over the past couple of years and look about ready to explode. The one we have here is actually

from Vacheron themselves as part of their Les Collectioneurs, essentially their in-house vintage boutique. That means you can be sure of its flawless condition inside and without all the paperwork accounted for. Sure, there’s a slight premium, but given the 222s enduring appeal, having it assured by the maison that made it is worth a little extra.

THE DETAIL: 37mm yellow gold case with 120m water resistance calibre 1121 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve Available at vacheron-constantin.com

FRONT — investments

Patek Philippe

Nautilus Annual Calendar 5726A-001

Honestly, good luck getting your hands on a time-only 5711. If the watch weren’t hard enough to get hold of before this month then the news that it’s been discontinued has sent things into the stratosphere. However, branch out just a little and for less money – and a great deal less frantic searching – you can get

yourself this, the 5726A-001. It’s still a Nautilus, it’s still in steel and it still has that cool, decking-esque dial. It is a little smaller than the 5711 at 40.5mm, but still has the muscular, Genta-designed build that’s made the series one of the most sought after in horological history. The main difference though is that this

includes an Annual Calendar. As 5711s become harder and harder to find, we may well discover collectors branching out and realising that pieces like this are a lot more watch for the money. A more complicated movement, the same good looks and at least £30,000 less, what’s not to love?

THE DETAIL: 40.5mm stainless steel case with 120m water resistance Calibre 324 S QA LU 24H/303 automatic movement with 45-hour power reserve £50,999, unworn Available at xupes.com

FRONT — investments

Heuer Carrera 3147N 12 Dato 45

Of the three legendary racing chronographs still around today – the others being the Zenith El Primero and Rolex Daytona – the Heuer Carrera was the one that really broke new ground. Designed by Jack Heuer in 1963, himself a devotee of high-octane racing, it laid out the blueprints for what would become the archetypal racing watch.

Fast forward to today and the modern successor to the name looks considerably different. In fact, to get anywhere close to the original design, you need to look at TAG Heuer’s 160th anniversary pieces from 2020, not the Carrera Sport. Or you could buy in to that racing history with this, the 3147N 12 Dato 45. This 35mm stainless steel chronograph

isn’t the first execution of the Carrera, but is very early in its lifecycle, built in 1966. Better yet, it’s one of the most handsome chronographs of the time, with a contrasting white minute track against the black dial and retro bi-compax layout. The hands have been replaced but the movement is as great as ever, a solid buy that lives and breathes racing style.

THE DETAIL: 35mm stainless steel case Landeron calibre 189 manual wind movement with 42-hour power reserve £9,999, good condition Available at xupes.com

FRONT — investments

Rolex

Daytona Paul Newman Cosmograph Early Mark I 6239

If you have even just a passing interest in watches then you should know all about the Paul Newman Daytona. It’s one of the definitive grail watches, the most sought after of all the Rolex timepieces and therefore arguably the most sought after in the world. This version of the Daytona with its black dial and contrasting white subdials, got its nickname when actor, racer and

all-round paragon of masculine style Paul Newman was presented one by his wife Joanne Woodward. That original watch was sold back in 2017 for $17.5 million (approx. £12.3 million), making it the most expensive wristwatch ever sold. This, unfortunately, wasn’t owned by Newman. It does still tick every other box a collector could hope for. It has the right colours, the right bracelet the right

condition, everything about it is on the money. Even the exotic dial is flawless and it comes with its original papers. In fact, this may well be one of the finest Paul Newman watches I’ve ever seen. Which is why the price is POA. I’m afraid you’ll need to get in touch with Xupes if you’re genuinely interested; otherwise, like me, feel free to gaze at it from afar. Sure-fire doesn’t begin to cover it.

THE DETAIL: 37mm stainless steel case Cal. 722-1 manual wind movement with 42-hour power reserve POA, excellent condition Available at xupes.com

FRONT — investments

Rolex

GMT-Master II 126710BLRO

The legendary Pepsi Cola is one of the most sought-after steel sports watches in the world, let alone dual time zone pieces. Its signature blue and red bezel first did the rounds in the mid-fifties when Bakelite still seemed like a good idea and has since become a legendary watch, so much so that in 2018 Rolex relaunched the timepiece to inevitable global fanfare.

This model is part of that latest generation of revamped Pepsi Colas. Originals are hard to come by in any decent state of repair – in case you couldn’t read the tone, Bakelite was not a suitable bezel material – and those that are have become prohibitively expensive. A lot less so for the more recent generation though. The newer GMTMaster IIs also have the advantage of

Rolex’s 3285 calibre with its magnetically resistant Chronergy escapement and 70-hour power reserve. Combine that with its cutting-edge materials – Oystersteel for the case, Cerachrom for the bezel – and you have a watch with all the aesthetic trappings of a classic but one that will stand up to daily wear (and therefore stay in better condition for longer) far better.

THE DETAIL: 40mm Oystersteel case with 100m water resistance 3285 automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve £15,999, unworn Available at xupes.com

FRONT — investments

Patek Philippe

Complications Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds Chronograph 5204R-001

Only a relative handful of Patek Philippe grand complications are built each year with all the lavish attention to detail and haute horology that entails. Given what you get for the money – at any price – they’re certainly worth investing in and this sporty perpetual calendar is one of the finest-looking around. The perpetual calendar itself is

wonderfully restrained on the white enamel dial with matching white indexes outlined in case-matched rose gold. It’s beautiful, classical and would normally be more than enough to create a frenzy of interest amongst collectors. This particular model though has a sporty angle that takes it to the next level: a rattrapante or split seconds chronograph.

Featuring one of the most complicated mechanisms alongside minute repeaters and tourbillons, the chronograph is fitted with two second hands which can be stopped separately or snapped back together at the press of a button. It’s magnificent at the best of times, but in a svelte 40.2mm Patek Philippe it’s absolutely stunning.

THE DETAIL: 40.2mm rose gold case with 30m water resistance Caliber CHR 29 535 PS Q manual wind with 55-hour power reserve £174,999, excellent condition Available at xupes.com

FRONT — investments

Audemars Piguet

Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 18k Rose Gold

If there’s one thing you can always count on retaining its value, it’s gold. If there’s another, it’s an iconic watch like Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak. This chunky, 42mm chronograph has plenty of both. Part of the current crop of Offshores, this sportier take on the famous octagonal, industrial bezel of Gerald Genta’s original design takes

‘sports luxe’ to a whole new dimension. On the one hand, the rose gold case isn’t all that practical; on the other, ceramic chronograph pushers and crown shore up the elements that even a careful wearer is likely to bump. Finished with an incredibly handsome black Mega Tapisserie dial with gold indexes, silver subdials and an oddly subtle tachymeter,

the Royal Oak is the perfect watch for a marina-side view of the Dubai Grand Prix. It even has 100m water resistance, if you dared to take it swimming. The bottom line is that this is about as solid an investment as you can get and not just for the sheer weight of gold. Prices for these have been going mental at auction, so best get in there soon.

THE DETAIL: 42mm rose gold case with 100m water resistance Calibre 3126 / 3840 automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve £32,999, excellent condition Available at xupes.com

FRONT — investments

Rolex

Submariner Mark 1 Dial Stainless Steel 1680

Any Rolex can be considered a good investment, but in the wake of the brand’s revamp of the Submariner, you can be sure plenty of collectors will have their eyes firmly on the original iconic models. Sure, prices for Reds and Double Reds have been astronomical for years, but now even the more accessible models will be in the limelight. Stainless steel

case in point, this handsome 1680 Submariner MK 1. Everything about this late-seventies reference is correct, from the Top Hat plexiglass complete with cyclops magnifier to the Oyster bracelet. The dial is faded of course – the watch is over half a century old after all – but evenly across the board which shows its age rather

than imperfections. This particular timepiece has been polished a fair bit in the past and the bracelet is a service replacement from Rolex, so it’s not in mint condition, but it’s still in far better nick than your average pre-loved Sub and as a result it's as close to a sure-fire investment as these things get – especially at this price.

THE DETAIL: 40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance Calibre 1575 automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve £11,999, very good condition Available at xupes.com

FRONT — investments

IWC

Ingenieur SL IW1831

The Ingenieur was originally built in 1954, making it one of the most enduring names in watchmaking. The version that first springs to mind though isn’t quit that old. In 1975, Gerald Genta, patron saint of sports luxe design, revamped the Ingenieur. He gave it a chunky, industrial overhaul in line with the Royal Oak and Nautilus, every bit the potential

integrated bracelet icon. For whatever reason, the Ingenieur has never really had the same status as the rest of its designer’s impressive portfolio. Now though, those original designs are slowly becoming more sought after by collectors, with auction prices continuing to rise in the wake of the current crop of sports luxe imitators.

The piece here follows that same Genta design, though it was built a few years later in 1983. A smaller, slimmer take on the design, it was also the first to use a third party ETA movement. That not only makes it a more wearable watch, but it's also a quirky chapter in IWC’s history – the kind of thing any good collector looks for in a watch.

THE DETAIL: 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance Calibre 375 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve £18,999, excellent condition Available at xupes.com

FRONT — investments

Blancpain

Air Command Limited Edition

Of all Blancpain’s recent releases, the Air Command Limited Edition is the one that garnered the most attention when launched, partly because it taps into the history of one of the archetypal diving watches and partly because it’s an incredibly good-looking watch. Who wouldn’t want to wear this? The original Air Command is one of the

rarest Blancpain references ever built. They were built for the US Air Force and never went into proper production, so as a result only a dozen of them are in existence and command prices up to £75,000. This is not one of those. Instead, this is a modern but relatively faithful re-issue of the original released back in 2019.

It’s obviously far less limited – 500 rather than 12 – and there have been a few updates, most notably the caliber F388B flyback chronograph movement which can time 1/10th of a second. As a fun reference to an inaccessible part of Blancpain’s history it’s a great watch; as a handsome sports watch in its own right, it’s downright lovely.

THE DETAIL: 42.5mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance Cal. F388B automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve £17,999, unworn Available at xupes.com

CULTURE — Drink Investments

THE LAST DROP 1959 VINTAGE GRANDE CHAMPAGNE COGNAC This incredibly rare cognac was distilled in 1959 and has rested and matured for 60 years in its original barrel. Given the length of time (and due to the angel’s share) there was only enough for 21 bottles. This is without question one of the most beautiful cognacs to have ever graced my palate. As per usual with all The Last Drop releases, this piece of history arrives in a beautifully crafted leather bound case, with an assortment of reading materials and a miniature sample. This is a time capsule of pure beauty. Fresh and vibrant with a tangy acidity. There’s a surge of fruit, finesse and a creaminess unmatched by anything I have previously tasted. This is a true treasure. £4,800 from Hedonism

THE DALMORE 2006 HARRODS EXCLUSIVE Every now and again The Dalmore releases something special and it doesn’t sit around for long. One of their latest is the sumptuously expressive 2006 release for Harrods in London. The distiller group Whyte & Mackay needs no introduction – awarded the title of ‘best Scottish distiller in 2021’, Whyte & Mackay’s The Dalmore has been producing exceptional liquid for as long as I can remember. The 2006 Exclusive was matured in American white oak ex bourbon casks and finished in Marsala casks. The nose bursts with aged clementine, Christmas cake and cotton candy with the palate offering vanilla, creamy fudge, ginger and sticky toffee pudding. Pure indulgence. £240 from Harrods

the best

Drink Investments of 2021

WORDS:

Aidy Smith

In this month’s issue our wine and spirits columnist Aidy Smith delves into the world of drinks investments. Drink investments are constantly reaching new peaks with Scotch whisky becoming one of the fastest growing forms of investments of the decade. Whether you’re looking to sell in years time or indulge yourself after years of settling, this guide will help you on your investment voyage.

CULTURE — Drink Investments

THE DEVIL’S KEEP CRAFT IRISH WHISKEY This is the oldest triple-distilled Irish single malt in existence. Incredibly rare, with only 333 bottles released, the remaining 666 go to market this year. Just a few months ago, this whiskey set a world-record, being the most expensive first-release, hitting an auction price of $60,000. The 29-year-old wonder continues to build the reputation of a luxury irish whisky scene we are only just beginning to see emerge. The whiskey itself is aged in 200-litre first fill American oak casks (which previously held Kentucky bourbon). They are then finished in both French oak barrels that once held tawny port and rare virgin Hungarian oak. The palate offers rich Madacasgan vanilla, caramelized sugar and toast maple syrup. A world first. €1,000 from CraftIrishWhiskey.com

ROYAL SALUTE: THE SNOW POLO EDITION 21 YEAR Allow me to introduce you to the first blended grain whisky from the Royal salute portfolio. Royal Salute has long been one of my absolutely top choices. I find myself buying all of their special releases because so much love, care and dedication goes into each bottle. This edition is no exception to that. At 46.5% ABV, it matches the exact latitude of St Moritz, the Swiss resort where snow polo was first played. So let’s delve in. The nose brings forward toffee and butterscotch with caramel apples, malted barley and vanilla. On the palate, you can expect smooth toffee and apple pie with a generous splash of Madagascan vanilla custard and a soothing luxurious finish. Very few bottles of this remain on the market, so you’re best acting now if you want one. £250 from Amazon

CASK TRADE WHISKY CASK INVESTMENT Whisky Investment is at an all-time high. But you need to trust who you’re buying your casks from as more and more companies begin to jump on the fad. As far as what is out there, Cask Trade has the best reputation. It’s a company I’ve followed since day 1 and have continued to see grow exponentially. Having recently sat down with MD Simon Aron and looked through the casks available to purchase, all I can say is, they don’t stay in inventory long. So, if you want to up the game and invest in a cask instead of a bottle – this should be your go-to. Whether you’re wanting to invest for the future or purchase a cask to bottle and enjoy now – the liquid will speak for itself. Find out more at casktrade.com

CULTURE — Drink Investments

CARDINALE 2014 HIBIKI 21 YEAR OLD

The Jackson Family have been making wine for as long as we can remember and the beautiful thing about each and every one of their estates is that quality is never compromised for scale. This hefty Bordeaux blend (largely Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot) is produced in limited quantities and is well worth the money. Showcasing rich flavours of cassis, mint and raspberry with a moreish earthiness thanks to its incredible terroir, this wonder adds an extra layer of comfort to the cold winter air. This is another highlight and a testament to the stunning wine that calls Napa Valley its home. £336 from Hedonism

This is arguably one of the most famous Japanese whiskies in the world. Launched in 1989 to commemorate the 90th anniversary of Suntory, Hibiki has won countless awards and continues to every year - making it the most awarded Japanese whisky on the planet. A selection of malt and grain whiskies, harmoniously blend to create perfection in the bottle. Orange peel, dried nectarine and strawberry jam roll across the palate. Insanely smooth, extremely moreish and with a finish that strikes every chord. £780 from Dekanta

HAVANA CLUB MAXIMO EXTRA ANEJO RUM Quite possibly one of the most beautiful rums I’ve tasted and I’m not alone on that. Many spirits experts have deemed this as the finest rum ever made. This ultra-premium rum was produced by Maestro Ronero Don José Navarro and arrives in a sensational crystal decanter. Only 1000 bottles are produced each year making it in short supply. The flavour is divinely intense yet refined. Fresh pear, coconut and fried fruit emerge with the palate giving you dark chocolate, dried apricot, vanilla and warm bread and butter pudding with a kick of warm spice that continues into a beautifully long finish. One of the best best rums in existence. £1235 from The Whisky Exchange

ANTICA TERRA, ‘ANTIKYTHERA’ PINOT NOIR 2017 While Burgundy may traditionally have the spotlight when it comes to Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley is a region in Oregon that without question needs to be on your radar when it comes to investments. Delve down a little further and you’ll find one of my favourite corners of this wine country. Antica Terra is a vineyard that is quaintly tucked into a 40-acre parcel in the Eola-Amity Hills of the region. The terroir results in a succulently deep Pinot with incredible acidity. What does all of this mean? A wine that will truly stand the test of time crafted to excellence by the hands of winemaker Maggie Harrison. A warm nose of fresh cinnamon stick and rich light red fruits, mineral undertones and Barolo-like tannin. I can’t get enough. £187 from Wine Treasury

CULTURE — Drink Investments

YALUMBA THE CALEY CABERNET & SHIRAZ 2015 Coonawarra is an Australian wine region I fell in love with many years ago. It has continued to gain much deserved recognition due to wines like Yalumba’s “The Caley’’ that place it on the map. The Caley is a prime example of consistent quality year on year. This vintage contains 74% Cabernet sauvignon from a 2.7-hectare plot, planted in 1992. The 26% Shiraz is sourced from two Barossa blocks planted in 1901 and 1971. Suffice to say there’s some bloody good grapes going into it. Deep and intense, you’ll experience green olives, complex aromatics and a leafy foliage. The palate offers a rich red currant spice, sensational tannins and a sweepingly long dark chocolate and red cherry finish. £258 from Hedonism

DOM PERIGNON ROSÉ 2006 While many decided to not create a 2006 vintage due to the weather conditions that year, DP dared to be different and my goodness did they prevail. This is one of the most divinely unique champagnes I have ever tasted and for all the right reasons. The difference lies in the savoury nature of these bubbles. Darker floral notes jump out, with savoury bread yeast and a subtle mineral layer. The taste brings forth tangerine, black pepper brioche, strawberries and a dark chocolate bitterness that goes on and on and on… £270 from Clos19

PENFOLDS ST HENRI SHIRAZ 2016 From the renowned Australian winery and arguably one of the most famous in the world, St Henri is a trophy wine, created by the excellence that is Peter Gago. This man is a vino-genius and one of just 4 chief winemakers to hold the reigns at Penfolds over the past 175 years. This gracious 95% Shiraz (5% Cab) is produced from a variety of some of their best performing vineyards. It’s captivating, enticing and undeniably intriguing. An assortment of blackberries, black cherry and blackcurrant meet a dense red and dark fruit compote, fresh prunes and quince. Bursting with freshness but an equal boldness. This wine will last for a very long time and is an absolute must for your collection. £95 from Berry Bro & Rudd

CERVANTES FAMILY VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON MMXVI 2016 Another gem from Napa Valley, hidden within the lesser-known mountainous area of Pope Valley. Andy Erickson, a former winemaker for Screaming Eagle, Harlan Estate and Staglin is the creator of this divine Cabernet Sauvignon. Only 5000 cases are produced each year, created in a year that is arguably one of the best to date. Twenty-two months in French barrels give them a divine complexity and smooth tannin, wrapped up in a dense fruit core, orange oil, baking spices and a layer of cocoa. Its journey is only just beginning. £155 from Oeno

QUINTESSA 2017 It’s no secret that Napa holds some of the most refined wines for ageing in the world. Not just their 100% Cabs but their Bordeaux blends (for obvious reasons) hold the test of time too. Quintessa is another example of just this. Their 2017 bottling is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 3% Carmenére and 1% Petit Verdot. The four blend in harmony after 22 months in French oak to produce a stunningly graceful wine. Black and red meadow fruits meet tobacco, savoury notes and a pinch of Madagascan vanilla with a great structure, finesse and powerful finish. The critics constantly rave about Quintessa for a reason. £145 from Uncorked.co.uk

FRONT — invest wisely

WORDS:

SAM KESSLER

Alternative Investments CLASSIC CARS, ART, RARE WHISKY AND FINE WINE ARE MORE THAN ENJOYABLE LUXURIES, THEY’RE ALSO POTENTIAL INVESTMENTS

FRONT — invest wiselyy

FRONT — invest wisely

INVESTING IS, too all intents and purposes, gambling. Let’s just get that out of the way first. You put down money in the hope – but with no guarantee – of making more of it. It just so happens that there’s more to investing than on which colour a ball lands and a great many more ways in which you can hedge your bets. Stocks for example might be the investors go-to, investing in companies set to go up or down, but as the recent chaos with Wall St. Bets and Gamestop has shown, it’s perhaps not the most stable arena to play in. Think of it as the mafioso-run high-stakes table, where one wrong move can shoot the kneecaps out of your investment portfolio. On the other hand, there are plenty of other things you can bet on out there, especially when it comes to the alluring world of luxury. Stocks may go up and down on a daily basis, but things like whisky, cars and watches are there for the longgame. Perhaps even better, you can enjoy them while you have them. Well, perhaps not whisky or wine but you get my drift. They’re tangible. So, in case you were thinking of diversifying your portfolio into commodities – or just wanted to know how to make the most of your next exclusive present to yourself – look no further. Here are our favourite alternative investments and how to get the most out of them. Oh and if you’re wondering where the watches are, flick to page 63.

CLASSIC CARS FROM BRITISH MARQUES Not long ago classic cars were the ultimate investment, perched atop every index out there for sustained growth. That was until 2019 when the sector dropped a substantial 7%, according to the Knight Frank Luxury Investment Index. Last year however, they managed to claw nearly all of that back and are very high up when it comes to offering solid value over time. That said, there has to be more to it than just classic cars in general. This year has been particularly strong for vintage Ferraris, but then that’s no surprise, and actually getting a good deal on one of those Italian stallions is easier said than done. A sleeper hit however, might be closer to home shores with the British marque of 007. As Neal Garrard of Aston Martin specialist Nicholas Mee puts it: “Aston Martin has grown in worldwide recognition, dramatically, in the last 20 years as a result in a substantial increase in new car production, the publicity it receives every few years from its exposure in the world’s most famous secret

agent movies and in 2021, the awareness it will receive from being back on the Formula One grid, as a manufacturer.” Indeed, with Aston Martin’s return to the F1 circuit, it seems like a good time to get yourself an elegantly English breed of supercar, and the selection at nicholasmee.co.uk is more than just solid. It’s spectacular. That all said, Aston Martin is not the only British marque that has been consistently appealing to collectors. Enter the Jaguar E-Type. The E-Type is a legendary set of wheels, arguably the most iconic Jaguar has ever built, definitive of the sixties and seventies. That’s likely been helped by Jaguar’s own restoration of ‘the most beautiful car in the world’ last year. The only problem is that finding a factory-condition original is far easier said than done, with poor restoration jobs and updated parts liable to let down the value of the car. Therefore, if you want an authentic, faithfully restored original, your first port of call should be E-Types UK (etypeuk.com). The name says it all really, and the brand’s obsessive eye for the authentic means that any car that they see to will come out as close to the factory original as is physically possible. When it comes to classic cars – like in watches – that original condition is what really tips it over the line from a cool collectible to a serious investment piece. Sure, the future of modern cars looks electric, but nostalgia is a powerful persuader, and you can be sure classic cars will continue on the up, in spite of (or perhaps because of) the switch to electric.

The E-Type is a legendary set of wheels, arguably the most iconic Jaguar has ever built, definitive of the sixties and seventies 88

FRONT — invest wisely

Thanks in part to 007’s fondness for the brand and a return to the F1 grid this year, original condition Aston Martins are often a sound investment

FRONT — invest wisely

A glass of fine whisky can be a pleasure, but with demand outstripping supply it can also pose an investment opportunity

FRONT — invest wisely

Casks continue ageing the liquid inside. This means that a savvy investor can hit on the next big whisky before it even gets noticed

RARE WHISKY & COLLECTOR’S CASKS Scotland produces 35 million litres of single malt per annum, which sounds like a lot. Global consumption levels however are hovering around 500 million litres. Needless to say, demand is significantly out-stripping supply. That imbalance, while an issue from the consumer side, presents a golden opportunity for investors. It’s an outlook that’s been backed up by some serious numbers: whisky as an asset has grown 564% over the past 11 years, and 40% in 2019 alone. It topped the Knight Frank Luxury Index in 2018 and 2019 and, even after a slight dip of 3.5% this year, is consistently one of the most solid investments there is.

That however is just half the story, as there are two distinctly different sides to whisky investing. On the one hand, you have bottles which are relatively static and will increase with value in line with demand, pure and simple. Casks on the other hand continue ageing the liquid inside. This means that a savvy investor can hit on the next big prestige whisky before it even gets noticed. For bottles, auctions might well be your first port of call, with a fair few seasonal rare whisky sales from both the big London auctioneers and smaller independent specialists alike. For casks though, which involve a far more in-depth knowledge of the whisky-making process, you might require a bit more guidance. As Jas Patel of Tomoka Casks puts it, “there are many things to consider when investing in casks such as age, barrel, yield and distillery. All of these can have an impact on the potential value of the cask, but there are other factors such as the future of the whisky market itself, where it will be in 15- or 20-years’ time, and what your exit strategy will be at that time.” Tomoka casks, with their exceptional insider knowledge, are a great option. Rather than holding the whisky themselves, they keep it in the distillery in which it was made, ensuring perfect aging condition and no sneaky storage costs. From there, they’ll give you regular updates on your whisky’s performance and the occasional tasting sample. In short, they make it less of an investment, more of an epicurean adventure that just so happens to net you returns of 10-16% per annum. If you already have your hand in whisky, perhaps with a couple of casks already under your belt, and you want to make the most of it, then you’ll likely be looking for a trading opportunity or two. As the name suggests, that’s what Cask Trade is for. A group of collectors, connoisseurs, experts and investors, Cask Trade is a place where serious cask owners can buy, sell and manage their casks with likeminded whisky-lovers. It’s more about the enjoyment than the investment opportunities, but with names like Sir Colin Hampden White, judge at the Whisky Awards (and one of Amazon’s Three Drinkers alongside our own Aidy Smith) on board, there’s more than a dram of expertise on offer.

FRONT — invest wisely

“The wine investment sector is resilient and resourceful with a proven track record of performing well even during periods of extreme economic turbulence”

FINE WINE OUTSIDE OF BORDEAUX

remarkably well, showing a strong diversification from the classic Bordelaise. Burgundy however seems to have done remarkably well this year and tops Oeno’s list of investment bottles: “Henri Jayer Echezeaux Grand Cru 1995 had a record-breaking price growth of 113.07% across 2020. Just a handful of these bottles still exist making this one of the rarest wines on the planet. It’s also one of the best wines on the market according to WineLister who included the bottle on their Top 5 Burgundy Grand Crus ranking with a near-perfect 983 score out of 1,000.” Needless to say, it’s an expensive bottle. If you’re after something a little more down-to-earth, particularly if you’re stocking your own personal cellar, then Cru Wine (cru-wine.com) is a good place to look. Between their Wine Club, designed to introduce drinkers to discover new regions and the vintages therein, and their investment wing, Cru Wine offers a more holistic approach to fine wine. One of their most useful services is to help you discover what you might already have: a free cellar valuation. Prices for bottles are always going up and down and keeping track of what you actually own is harder than you might expect. Cru Wines will make sure you not only know what you have hidden in your cellar, but that you can make the most of it in coming years.

Wine can generally be considered a safe haven for investors, a reliable asset in a world of turbulent uncertainty. That’s not to say it’s not a great investment too of course. In fact, this year fine wine boasted the second biggest growth on the Knight Frank Luxury Index, up by 13% on 2020. That means a total growth of over 200% since 2005 – not too shabby at all. You might have assumed that with the hospitality industry closed for most of the past 12-month period, wine consumption was at an all-time low. According to Oeno CEO Daniel Carnio, that’s definitely not the case: “The wine investment sector is resilient and resourceful with a proven track record of performing well even during periods of extreme economic turbulence. While the effective shutdown of the hospitality trade has made it difficult for the wider industry, changing consumer habits have meant an uptick in consumption at home.” He should know; Oeno has won Fine Wine Investment Firm of the Year for the past two years at the Global Finance and Banking Awards. Given that their portfolio has outperformed DAX, FTSE 100 and S&P500 solidly across the year, it’s perhaps not a surprise. Last year Champagne outperformed all other fine wine regions and both Italy and Rhone performed

FRONT — invest wisely

The price of Burgundy has performed remarkably well this year and currently tops Oeno’s list of investment bottles

FRONT — xxxxxx

With galleries remaining closed for the time being, art sales have moved online and with that change new investment opportunities have arisen

FRONT — invest wisely

FINE ART ONLINE & OFF Galleries are closed, auctions are virtual and social distancing means that seeing works in person is harder than ever. None of that has made a dent in the contemporary art market though as, being the creative and versatile arena that it is, many artists and galleries have simply moved online. On one hand, that’s meant a slight decline at the top end – this is the first year in a long time no artwork has sold for more than $100 million – but it’s kept things healthy overall. Botticelli’s Young Man Holding a Roundel, for example, recently sold at Sotheby’s for $92 million, proving that the Old Masters are still buoyant; on the other hand, blue chip works are becoming the bread and butter for most sales. The difference however seems to be a personal one for buyers. As Sebastian Duthy of auctiontracking AMR All-Art Index says, “the problem was compounded by the slowing the supply of quality works as consigners who could afford to wait, preferred to sit it out at home. Having said that, there was still plenty of enthusiasm from buyers.

With a new emphasis on home working, there was a surge in demand from collectors sprucing up their homes.” So, the demand is still there, but collectors and investors are happy to play the waiting game for the top-end pieces, while investing in more accessible artwork for their own home. It’s why online sales have seen a huge surge of interest while auctions simply haven’t. Still, some might have been a bit more tempted by the big-ticket items if they realised there’s more you can do with fine art than leave it in storage. Red 8 Gallery (redeightgallery.com) is quickly becoming one of the most successful digital art platforms out there, so much so that despite the current crisis, they will be opening their first physical space in the coming months. Perhaps even more interesting to those with an artistic portfolio already under their belt however is their leasing service. Dubbed Red 8 Rental, the service allows their clients to rent out their art works to events, offices, and all spaces that might need a dramatic piece of canvas or sculpture. It means that, even if the climate’s not perfect to sell the piece in its entirety, you can still make plenty of money without any effort on your part. Admittedly it means that businesses don’t need to buy the artworks, but with global sales seeing a drop anyway, this might just be the perfect solution for everyone involved.

FRONT — invest wisely

“The Pacific Islands not only provide idyllic lifestyles and landscapes but are also the home of largely untapped business opportunity”

If you’re investing in the achingly beautiful Pacific Islands then a private jet will get you there in style

FRONT — invest wisely

“There are many investment-ready projects, island resorts, farm to table businesses and existing and proposed infrastructure, opportunities ready and waiting”

With that in mind, PTI Australia support an end-to-end investment process tailored to investors’ needs. That’s involved helping to set up the Pasifika Diaspora Fund, introducing global contact centre Unity4 into Fiji and helping Vanuatu coffee producer Tanna Coffee hit a new milestone in investment. Between myriad opportunities available and the fact that this is one investment you’ll be more than happy to visit in person, if you’re thinking of expanding your portfolio overseas, the Pacific Islands are a strong way to go.

FREEDOM OF FLIGHT

INTERNATIONAL INVESTMENTS So far, we’ve only really addressed the product side of the luxury lifestyle when it comes to investments, but there is another side to it. Granted travel’s not the most important thing in the world as we can’t leave our houses quite yet (come on, Boris) but once lockdowns across the world start lifting, the surge in tourism is going to be dramatic. That’s why we’re considering getting ahead of the curve and investing in a few far-flung locations so that, when that inevitable surge hits, it leaves behind plenty of capital. Of course, it’s all about picking the right place. According to Pacific Trade Invest Australia (pacifictradeinvest.com), the painfully beautiful countries dotting the Pacific are ripe for investment. PTI Australia works with 16 island nations across the Pacific, working with investment promotion authorities within each to help identify investment opportunities for their clients. The obvious projects involve tourism, which was seeing an impressive surge before the current crisis. But you want more from an investment than seasonal tourist trade which, as Leata AlaimoanaRoberts, Impact Investment Manager PTI Australia, explains, The Pacific Islands have aplenty: “The Pacific Islands not only provide idyllic lifestyles and landscapes but are also the home of largely untapped business opportunity. Offering a range of economic advantages including stable economies, supportive governments, safe communities, low operating costs and skilled workforces, the Pacific is open for business. The region has seen an influx of interest over the past few months, thanks to its pristine nature and ability to be an oasis during global events such as COVID-19. There are many investment-ready projects, island resorts, farm to table businesses and existing and proposed infrastructure, opportunities ready and waiting.”

In the current global climate, there are a plethora of benefits of owning a private jet. Now more than ever, flying privately not only allows you to travel in comfort and save time, but also greatly reduces the chances of any virus transmissions. Now, private aircraft do depreciate, there’s no getting around that. Most business jets and larger turboprops lose around 50% of their original value within the first 10 years. However, there’s one aircraft that has consistently outperformed the competition when it comes to the depreciation impact: the Swiss manufactured Pilatus PC-12 - “the SUV of the skies”. With a range of 1,765 nautical miles (when travelling with four passengers), an extra-large baggage compartment and an executive interior designed by the BMW Designworks, the PC-12 is a perfect choice for both business and leisure travel. Seating up to nine passengers, the aircraft can land on grass and unpaved runways, bringing you even closer to your final destination. Unlike most private aircraft, which begin depreciating from the first take-off, Pilatus’ build quality combined with correct demand and supply management in the market ensure that, should you need to sell your aircraft, you’ll likely achieve up to 80% of its original value, even a decade on. That’s truly remarkable. A leading UK-based aviation finance specialist noted: “The aircraft is very versatile and has a global appeal which offers owners the peace of mind that they are investing in a popular type. Similarly, the low operating costs and the reliability of the engine and avionics adds to that sense of comfort. For that reason, we depreciate the aircraft slower than other aircraft when we come to assess values of our portfolio.” If time is money, the PC-12 – available from Oriens Aviation in the British Isles - is one of the most solid alternative asset investments out there.

STYLE — opener

Style 104/ Beyond the bedroom 113/ Invest in your armoury

103

STYLE — pyjama party

Words: NICK CARVELL

BEYOND THE BEDROOM Craving joy and comfort right now? It’s time to tear up the dress code rule book and wear pyjamas 24/7

104

STYLE — pyjama party

105

STYLE — pyjama party

IF THERE’S ANYTHING we’ve learned from both history and Hollywood, it’s that imminent misfortune has a tendency to prompt humans to blow all social expectations and go after what they really want before it’s too late. Most recently, the prospect of near-total social collapse thanks to the pandemic has forced a reckoning with most people and their wardrobes. With no real social gatherings and a consensus that everyone needs comfort in any form they can get right now, over the space of a year we’ve thrown off centuries of ingrained dress codes to dress more honestly than we ever have before. As a freelance writer, throwing the rules of traditional menswear and dressing in a more honest and authentic manner has led me to an unusual place: pyjamas have become my go-to weekday uniform.

Freddie Briance (right), CEO of New & Lingwood in Mayfair’s Piccadilly Arcade has seen dressing gown sales increase 153 per cent year on year, while James MacAuslen (below) is one of three cutters at the historic Budd shirtmakers where nightwear now outsells shirts

106

I sit here typing this article in a striped, collared New & Lingwood nightshirt - an item that both fulfils my deep desire to be comfortable all day at my laptop, but also indulges my craving for a little wardrobe variety and excitement. Since the pandemic hit, I have only really added nightwear to my armoury: two pairs of cotton PJs (one leopard print and one star print, with interchangeable shorts and trousers) from Les Girls Les Boys, a silky-feeling pair of claret PJs from CDLP (what they ingeniously call their “house suit”), said nightshirt above, and a pair of suede slip-on house shoes from Inabo. All of them are investments that have brought me more joy and comfort than anything else I own over the past year - leading me to the conclusion that, if you’re going to invest in anything right now, make sure it’s your pyjamas. And it turns out, I’m not alone in this line of thinking. More men than ever are taking more time with their downtime wardrobe and investing in loungewear since the dawn of our newly mandated work-from-home world. “In terms of increased sales, nightwear has been our biggest seller for the last year, outselling shirts,” says James MacAuslen, one of three cutters at the historic Budd shirtmakers (buddshirts. co.uk) in Mayfair’s Piccadilly Arcade. “More time spent in loungewear means that people are paying more attention to it.” It’s a similar story a few doors down the Piccadilly Arcade at renowned gentlemen’s outfitter New & Lingwood, which launched a made-to-measure nightgown service through their website at the tail-end of 2020. “We have seen sleepwear and all things relaxed really pick up over the last year. We had already been noticing a distinct shift in that direction, but the lockdowns definitely pushed things forward,” says Freddie Briance, CEO of New & Lingwood (newandlingwood.com) who tells me that their sales of dressing gowns have increased 153 per cent year on year. “We know people have been spending much more time at home, and recognise their desire to elevate that experience through their clothes.” Whether you’re spending all day in PJs or simply need something to slip into after

STYLE — pyjama party

107

STYLE — pyjama party

108

STYLE — pyjama party

“I think it’s important to carry that bedtime relaxed feeling with us everywhere,” says Tom Adam Vitolins (above, left), founder of pyjama brand TomÁdam, which has created 24/7 unisex pyjamas

109

STYLE — pyjama party

hours for another night at home, what might have traditionally been considered nightwear is now something that provides a dividing line between on-the-clock and off-the-clock in an era where the two have no physical division. Even if they’re not being worn in bed, their connection to the act of sleeping imbibes them with a feeling of relaxation and calmness. “I think it’s important to carry that bedtime relaxed feeling with us everywhere,” says Tom Adam Vitolins, founder of TomÁdam (tomadam.fr), a father-and-son pyjama brand based between Berlin and Paris. “Creating the

TomÁdam’s stripey sets of matching shirts and shorts ooze adaptability to situations beyond just bedtime and make posing in front of your vintage Volvo look even cooler

“Personally, I find it really important that clothes are as versatile as possible” 110

24/7 unisex pyjamas seemed like the best way to bring those feelings to the every day life. Since setting up the company in 2017, TomÁdam’s stripey sets of matching shirts and shorts – created with contemporary boxy cuts and workwear-style detailing – have attracted attention not just for their style, but for their adaptability to situations beyond just bedtime. This utility has only served to increase their popularity since the global pandemic. “Personally, I find it really important that clothes are as versatile as possible,” says Vitolins. “That’s why I designed our pyjama shirt to be easily worn outside - on a weekend stroll to the beach or a last minute espresso meeting with a friend, right after you roll out of bed and can’t be bothered to change your clothes. Same goes with the pyjama shorts. I was pleasantly surprised when my customers started sending photos of them wearing them out and about! I think that people should be able to create their own story with our clothes whenever, wherever.” And, sure, that story might currently be a bottle episode of relatively limited scope until restrictions lift, but there’s still plenty of scope to play around with your PJs until we can all travel a bit further afield. The key is to get a variety of pieces in your wardrobe that not only work for different situations: buy shirts that have interchangeable trousers and shorts so that you can mix and match, invest in a variety of materials so you’ll feel cosy or cool whatever the thermostat’s set to, and get a pair of smart house shoes so you don’t end up slipping around the house in your socks. Most importantly, stop thinking of all of it as nightwear: liberate your pyjamas from bedtime by slipping a merino wool roll neck underneath, wear a silk PJ shirt to Zoom cocktails with your friends, wear a bold-patterned dressing gown over your jeans. Embrace our current situation, throw all the dress code rules out the window, get comfy and, damn it, just have some fun - because god knows we all need it right now.

STYLE — pyjama party

NOT JUST FOR NIGHTTIME… –1– Cashmere-mix pyjamas by Thom Sweeney, £385. thomsweeney.com –2– Leather slippers by Mulo, £195. muloshoes.com –3– Tencel-mix pyjamas by Basic Rights, £175. basicrights.com –4– Jersey pyjama top by Hamilton & Hare, £85. hamiltonandhare. com –5– Linen pyjamas by Carrier Company, £165. carriercompany.couk –6– Short pyjamas By Desmond & Dempsey, £154. desmondanddempsey.com

111

STYLE — must-haves

edit: NICK CARVELL

Invest in your armoury

UNEARTHING THAT NEW LAYERED LOOK FOR WHEN LOCKDOWN IS LIFTED

COAT

Due to their complexity of craftsmanship and the necessary use of heavier, high-quality fabrics, most styles of cold-weather coat will cost a decent chunk of change. However, as you’ll get loads of wear out of it (thanks, notoriously terrible British weather), it’s worth considering the potential cost-per-wear over the initial outlay. If you’re starting out, commit to one coat that fits your day-to-day life best and go for the very finest you can afford from a maker that knows its stuff.

THE TRENCH COAT,

> When it comes to rain coats, it’s hard to beat a trench. A part of the menswear lexicon since its invention in the early years of the twentieth century, today it’s as comfortable worn with a suit as with a pair of jeans and a rollneck. However, that doesn’t mean your investment can’t have a little twist. Take master raincoat-maker Mackintosh’s new Berlin model, which matches a traditional fawn-coloured body fabric with a cool black belt. £1,200, MACKINTOSH.COM

113

STYLE — must-haves

THE LEATHER JACKET,

> Bomber. Biker. Aviator. Cafe-racer. There’s a style of leather jacket to suit every man and it’s absolute nonsense for me to recommend one as the “best” investment. However, what I can tell you is I’m a biker guy - and when it comes to leather bikers, there are few brands who know how to make one like Acne Studios. Whichever is your style, look out for real leather, real metal hardware and a trim cut (none of this oversized nonsense). And invest in its care over the coming years - buy a leather cream to keep the material soft, glossy and protected as it ages. £1,300, ACNESTUDIOS.COM

THE WOOL OVERCOAT,

> A thick wool overcoat never goes out of style, however there are certain things to look out for if you want to get maximum classic appeal. The Martingala coat from Marylebone-based tailoring house Anglo-Italian is a perfect example. Crafted from dark grey charcoal herringbone fabric, it’s got a trim-yet-relaxed shape and timeless justbelow-the-knee length that will keep it looking fresh for many years to come. £1,550, ANGLOITALIAN.COM

“

Whichever is your style, look out for real leather, real metal hardware and a trim cut (none of this oversized nonsense)

THE WORKWEAR JACKET,

> If you’re looking for something more casual, you can’t go wrong with a great workwear jacket – something that can be layered up or down on the weekend depending on the chill factor. It’s hard to beat those made by French workwear label Le Laboureur, which has been handmaking superb examples in the town of Digoine for the past 60 years. Thankfully, nowadays you can get them this side of the Channel at cool Lancashire gardening store Wood & Meadow. £135, WOODANDMEADOW.COM

114

STYLE — must-haves

SMART WOOL TROUSERS, > We might all be living in a hermit’s cave right now, but the days of Friday drinks and date nights will return someday soon. When they do, a pair of trousers for ‘going out out’ will be a necessity something smart, yet relaxed that will look great with a black crew neck tee or open-collar shirt tucked into them. Albert’s Irish tweed pants are perfectly suited to the occasion, with a cut that’s fuller through the thigh thanks to a couple of pleats and tabs on the waistband, negating the need for a belt. £165, ALBERTCLOTHING.COM

TROUSERS

Trousers are the anchor of your wardrobe. Whether it’s a pair of jeans that you can dress up or down or a pair of smart slacks that you can slip into should a smarter occasion present itself, trousers are the understated canvas for the more shouty items of a man’s armoury: logo tees, silk shirts, jazzy jumpers. It pays to have a small selection that allows you to experiment with other more trend-led items that cost less to replace as seasons dictate.

115

STYLE — must-haves

CHINOS

> Once your dad’s favourite trouser, chinos have had something of a renaissance over the past decade, with a new concentration on desirable cuts and covetable colours. These days, France is leading the chino revolution, notably Paris based label Officine Generale whose ‘Owen’ chino is second to none. Cut from hardy Japanese cotton with a coordinating belt, the slightly looser cut is relaxed-yet-smart - and the olive green is just as versatile as trad beige. £200, UK.OFFICINEGENERALE.COM

“

They’re timeless, dress code-defying wardrobe winners

JEANS,

> I love jeans in all their myriad forms (yes, even a bit of distressing from time to time), but there’s no denying that the most practical and versatile style a man can own is a pair of five-pocket, slim cut, raw indigo denim jeans. They’re timeless, dress code-defying wardrobe winners and one of the best pairs I’ve ever tried are those from sustainability-minded Swedish brand Self Cinema. Do yourself a favour and import a pair ASAP. £180, SELF-CINEMA.COM

CORDS,

> A pair of corduroy trousers is the secret weapon many men forget about. Much like chinos, they’re a way of adding another great canvas for the rest of your wardrobe - just one of a different medium. And, also much like chinos, rather than go for the traditional golden-brown colour, I’d suggest choosing something that feels a little more versatile and modern, such as these cords from Venice-based separates-masters Incotex. £255, SLOWEAR.COM

116

STYLE — must-haves

SHOES

You can never have too many pairs of shoes - just ask any sneakerhead. And while there are always styles you can add to your collection depending on where you live and your day-to-day activities, there are certain styles that are non-negotiable in a man’s wardrobe: something smart, something rugged, something smart-casual, something versatile. Within these categories, there’s a variety of directions you can go in, but whatever you choose, these are four timeless pairs worth investing in. If you care for them, they’ll be with you for life.

OFF-ROADER,

> Not gonna lie, this is a super open category - but what I mean here is something that you can casually wear with jeans that can take on adverse weather in the city or the country. Some might go for a dark brown brogue, others might go for a rubber-soled Redwing, but I’m a big fan of the burgundy leather Moc Toe Bulcher, exclusively made for Drakes by legendary New England cobbler Alden. With its chunky cordovan commando sole and stitching details, it’s a classic rugged-yet-refined addition to any man’s wardrobe. £825, DRAKES.COM

117

STYLE — must-haves

BROWN PENNY LOAFERS,

> In many ways, the brown penny loafer was to mid-century men what the white trainer is to men today: an all-round shoe that works both formally and casually. Today, it still wields that wardrobe power - and the reason I’m recommending one of these to your armousy as opposed to white trainers is because you can get a pair of all-white Converse Jack Purcells at a more ‘spontaneous’ price. The key to getting maximum versatility for your brown loafers is to go for a shape that’s not too pointy of toe and not too light of colour - like these from Billy Ruffians. £160, BILLYRUFFIANSSHOES.CO.UK

BLACK FORMAL,

> Job interviews. Funerals. High falutin’ events. You might not wear black shoes every day, but you need a pair in your wardrobe that kicks any outfit into classically smart territory when needed. Now, you could go for a black leather monk strap or a Derby but in my opinion an Oxford is the GOAT. Its minimal, understated silhouette will never date plus it’s the only style you can get away with when wearing a tux should a rare black tie event slide into your post-pandemic social calendar. £445, HERRINGSHOES.CO.UK

“

They’re louche, they’re sleek and they’ll instantly elevate your outfit without looking try-hard

BLACK CHELSEA BOOTS,

> The beauty of black Chelsea boots is that whether you pull a pair on with your navy suit, formal trousers or jeans, you’re instantly one cigarette away from looking like you’re chilling on the Left Bank listening to beat poetry in the Sixties. They’re louche, they’re sleek and they’ll instantly elevate your outfit without looking try-hard. Few silhouettes are finer than John Lobb’s Lawry. Crafted on the slim ‘n’ streamlined 8695 last, its subtle detailing and superb materials will keep these shoes looking stylish until beat poetry makes a comeback - and beyond. £1,390, JOHNLOBB.COM

118

STYLE — must-haves

UNDERGARMENTS

The garments that sit closest to your skin should be the most considered of your wardrobe. They are the foundation of everything you wear, providing support, warmth and enhancement for everything that goes on top - and yet, for many men, these are the cheapest items they own (and get worn until they fall apart). Look out for natural materials that allow your skin to breathe, cuts that compliment your body shape and construction that keeps things under control down there.

UNDERPANTS,

> Whether you’re a boxerbriefs, briefs or slip kinda guy, you need to get the best you can in a couple of colours. In my opinion, darker colours (navy, black or grey) will always be more useful day-to-day, but white is worth having too, especially if you’re drawn to linen trousers, light colours or anything that a dark coloured pant could show through (yes, VPL isn’t just for girls). Thankfully, not content with making some of the bestfitting swimwear on the market, Orlebar Brown has now introduced four styles of superbly comfortable cottonlyrca mix briefs and trunks in the colours mentioned above that you can mix and match to create the perfect balance for every occasion in your underwear drawer. SLIP (PICTURED) £35 PER PAIR, ORLEBARBROWN.COM

119

STYLE — must-haves

T-SHIRTS,

> First, when it comes to t-shirts, let’s put the idea of v-necks to one side - fashion has a flirtation with these every few seasons, but they never stick. The Holy Grail of t-shirts is a crew neck that feels great as an underlayer, but also looks great in its own right - fabric that’s not too thick, not too thin with a relaxed-yettailored cut. I find Sunspel’s hard to beat. Depending on your budget and preference, go for either the hardier cotton Riviera (£70) or the downright sumptuous Sea Island Cotton (£145), and buy one of each in navy and black, and two white. Add a couple more when you can and build your collection from there. SEA ISLAND COTTON T-SHIRT (PICTURED), £145. SUNSPEL.CO.UK

SOCKS,

> Sadly, a man’s socks get so much wear that they’ll probably not last forever - so what’s important is investing in the kind of quality that ensures they resist holes for the longest possible period. Recently The London Sock Co., a label that prides itself on crafting socks with exceptional strength and durability, has launched a series of multipacks at mrporter. com that will bring both quality and variety to your feet for a very reasonable price. £70 FOR SIX PAIRS, AT MRPORTER.COM

BOXERS,

“

Fashion has a flirtation with these every few seasons, but they never stick

> Unless you solely wear jeans like Marky Mark back in the nineties, the chances are you don’t wear boxer shorts every day. But sometimes, when watching TV in bed after a long day or bumming around at the weekend, only boxers will do, so it pays to have a really great pair in your drawer. These clean, striped iterations from Ron Dorff fit the bill perfectly: not only do they scream ‘it’s downtime’, but they’re also stylish (and respectful) enough for you to be seen in by whoever else might be in your current living arrangement - or, indeed, outside of it (no judgement). £42, RONDORFF.COM

120

STYLE — must-haves

Editor’s picks A few new and noteworthy items for your sartorial consideration

GET THAT FUZZY FEELING

Shoe drops aren’t just for sneakerheads. Swedish shoemaker Myrqvist has just released a limited run of smart models in cool, black suede. The collection consists of three loafers – a penny, tassel and string loafer (pictured) – as well as one double monk strap, one Oxford and a Chelsea boot. And, if you’re worried about sporting suede during storm season, don’t worry. Not only are these cut from Repello Suede, a material developed with English tannery Charles F Stead to possess water repelling qualities, but each pair is fitted with Myrqvist’s half-rubber sole for maximum grip on wet pavements. £229 (INCLUDING YOUR INITIALS ENGRAVED ON SOLE), MYRQVIST.CO.UK

ROLL UP, ROLL UP

One day we will travel again. One day we will be able to wear tailored suits again, not tracksuits. Celebrate the possibility of both eventualities by getting one of Bennett Winch’s new SC Holdalls. Available in four styles (I’m a big fan of the military-vibing olive canvas), this piece comprises a generous weekender bag around which you can roll a suit carrier - not only cutting down on things to carry, but also ensuring your perfectlypressed suiting doesn’t need to encounter any any crease-making hard folds. £650, BENNETTWINCH.COM

“

If you’re worried about sporting suede during storm season, don’t worry

ACCEPTABLE IN THE EIGHTIES (AND IN 2021)

Founded in Shepherd’s Bush in 1967, Stuarts is a menswear store that became famous for its close-knit connection to the Mod and Casual scene during the 1980s. So, when it comes to a collaboration, it makes total sense that the shop would team up with a label that’s beloved of those subcultures too, like Lyle & Scott. This new limited-edition collection for Scott’s by the legendary knitwear label comprises vests, jumpers and polos in eightiesinspired colours and features the brand’s original large eagle logo prominently on the chest. POLO (PICTURED), £100, AT STUARTSLONDON.COM

122

FRONT — self-improvement

WHY I’M NO LONGER TALKING TO WHITE PEOPLE ABOUT RACE, BY RENE

B O O K S

EDDO-LODGE

Reading is one of the most introspective and intimate methods of learning and developing skills. For that reason, the things we read often stay with us the longest. From science to inspirational stories, let’s take a look at some of the most thought provoking texts around.

This is one of the timeliest books of the 21st century – dealing with the racism we thought existed only in the past. It first appeared on shelves in 2017 and for the most part that’s where it stayed. It took the murder of George Floyd in 2020 to make people feel guilty enough to finally pick it up and read it. It’s a frank and honest call for a better, fairer world. Check it out at bloomsbury.com/uk

Edited By

Michael Sonsino

INVEST IN YOURSELF A GUIDE TO THE TOP

SELF-IMPROVEMENT BOOKS, COURSES AND MASTERCLASSES. For a lot of us, being stuck at home for a year has highlighted the things in ourselves that we’re not happy with. Our physical and mental states have suffered and the endless bingeing of Netflix, while fun, hasn’t been the most productive use of our time. So, take the time you have now to invest in yourself and develop new ways of thinking and new skills that are going to be useful for the rest of your life. There are thousands of books, courses and masterclasses out there waiting for you, here’s a guide to some of our favourites.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF TIME, BY STEPHEN HAWKING

If you want to school yourself on big ideas, there are few concepts larger than the late Professor Stephen Hawking’s theories about the big bang and black holes. Originally published in 1988, this is still one of the most informative and easy to read books about cutting edge cosmology that has ever been written. The universe is expanding and with the help of this book, so will your mind. Find this book at waterstones.com

125

FRONT — self-improvement

THE COURAGE TO CARE: A CALL FOR COMPASSION, CHRISTIE WATSON

Following the worst days of the pandemic there were news reports giving accounts of frontline NHS staff experiencing symptoms of post-traumatic stress. Their stories are inspirational and best-selling author Christie Watson has gathered memoirs and stories from NHS nurses and health workers to show just how caring, dedicated and hardworking they are – telling the tales of the patients and families they encounter. A beacon of strength in these trying times. Learn from their stories at blackwells.co.uk

THE 7 HABITS OF HIGHLY EFFECTIVE PEOPLE,

BY STEPHEN R. COVEY The 7 Habits is an instructional guide that has been relied on by successful people for over 30 years, with updates and new introductions added to ensure it stays relevant and useful. With a focus on both personal and professional problem solving and development, it’s an educational read for all walks of life. If you want to find out what the 7 habits are… you’ll have to pick it up for yourself.

WHY WE SLEEP, BY MATTHEW WALKER

As science develops, we understand more and more about the human body year on year. So it’s amazing how little we actually know about sleep – what function does it have, how much is the right amount? These questions are furiously debated by scientists globally. Matthew Walker takes a look at 20 years’ worth of research and data to try and find the elusive answer to why we sleep.

Learn more waterstones.com

Find out more at amazon.co.uk

“

Have you thought about how you want to capture your legacy?

A beacon of strength in these trying times 126

FRONT — self-improvement

C O U R S E S

Learning by yourself can be difficult, you might prefer working with an expert over a number of days, weeks or even months. The courses we’ve highlighted here are designed to give you a new skill that can enable you to totally change your direction in life, learning to the highest level.

SOTHEBY’S INSTITUTE OF ART,

THE WRITING COACH,

The Online Premier Courses from Sotheby’s offer many interesting routes into the world of art, through curation, collecting and art history, in addition to more practical courses. These six week courses teach you everything you need to take your art passion to the next level, such as how to define an artwork’s price in relation to its value. With the knowledge you gain you can turn your hobby into a side-career.

Have you thought about how you want to capture your legacy? The stories you want to be remembered and the wisdom you have learned throughout your life. The Writing Coach is an online course that will pair you with a leading, professional writer for between six months and a year, during which time you can focus on getting your book written with the of aid expert advice.

Visit their website to find out more sothebysinstitute.com

“

Find out more about their coaching at thewritingcoach.co.uk

You can turn your hobby into a side-career 127

FRONT — self-improvement

LONDON WINE ACADEMY,

Wine tasting is all about discovering a feeling of refinement and deepening your senses to appreciate the delicate art of the vintner. The London Wine Academy provide a four week online course covering a range of white, red and sparkling wines, all of which are provided as part of the deal. It’s a skill that will greatly increase your enjoyment from wine and adds an air of sophistication to any soiree. You can sign up at londonwineacademy.com

CODE INSTITUTE, We’re always being told that it’s only a matter of time until computers are advanced enough to start replacing human jobs. Coding is the frontier of computer science and there’s never been a better time to get involved. The Code Institute offer online learning opportunities to teach you everything you could want to know about coding and receive a diploma. They also have funding and partnership opportunities for UK students.

MUSICTUTOR.CO.UK,

Learn more at codeinstitute.net

As adults, many of us regret giving up on learning an instrument when we were younger. But it’s not too late to learn and since it’s hard to get out you have less excuses than ever to avoid practicing. Regardless of what instrument interests you, you can find a teacher at musictutors.co.uk where you can access their huge database of online coaches, professional teachers and more. Find out more on their website musictutors.co.uk

“

It’s a skill that will increase your enjoyment from wine 128

FRONT — self-improvement

M A S T E R C L A S S E S

Masterclasses tend to be fun, relaxed affairs in which you get to spend time with a professional and really dive into the nitty-gritty of their craft. They are closer to what we consider hobbies, including areas such as fitness and games. Generally you can sign up for one or multiple of each class.

CORE COLLECTIVE, HANS ZIMMER TEACHES FILM SCORING,

Staying fit during quarantine has been a pain but there are gyms out there ready to guide you through routines from the safety of your home. Core Collective is such a gym, leading live streamed work out sessions that keep you feeling like you’re at the heart of the action. They’ll even send you all the equipment you need to get started.

Hans Zimmer is without a doubt one of the greatest film scorers of our age. Even a small list of his achievements is astonishing: Gladiator, Inception, Interstellar, Pirates of the Caribbean and most recently Wonder Woman 1984. The online service Masterclass offer almost six hours of lessons from the maestro himself and frankly his voice is as captivating as his music. You’ll learn how music can bring out the tiniest nuance of film.

Find out more on their website core-collective.co.uk

“

There are gyms out there ready to guide you through routines

Find out more at masterclass.com

129

FRONT — self-improvement

DANIEL NEGREANU TEACHES POKER, Poker and style go together like James Bond and martinis. And what better way is there to learn the stylish game than from the most successful player of all time: Daniel Negreanu is the six-time World Series of Poker champion and the biggest winner of a live tournament in history. Through Masterclass’s platform, you’ll not only learn the mechanics of the game but how to present yourself at the table. Learn more about how to get involved at masterclass.com

JAMIE OLIVER COOKERY SCHOOL ONLINE, Jamie Oliver is renowned for his ability to make outstanding food that is easy to make at home. If you want to dive into some of his recipes in more detail, you can join one of his cookery school’s online courses. They’ll give you a list of ingredients and then guide you through the process of how to make the dish live over Zoom. Explore new culinary delights from home.

“

Are you ready to take your photo game to the next level?

PHOTOGRAPHY FOUNDATION WITH MICHAEL FREEMAN, Sign up with Learning With Experts to join Amazon best-selling photographer Michael Freeman’s course on photography. He’ll guide you through the steps of setting up a composition, lighting, colour and the process of doing a shoot. You don’t even need to invest in a fancy camera if you don’t have one, your phone is enough. Are you ready to take your photo game to the next level? Learn more at learningwithexperts.com

130

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • 9SA5 Hi-Beat 36000 automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • £8,500, store.grandseikoboutique.uk

HANDS-ON WITH THE

GRAND SEIKO BIRCH FOREST “SHIRAKABA” SLGH005

133

FRONT — watch reviews

134

FRONT — watch reviews

It might still be early in the year but nothing, not even a pandemic, has slowed Grand Seiko’s creative output, as regular readers might have gathered. And while new re-editions and limited-edition divers are great to see, this is perhaps one of the loveliest we’ve seen in recent years: the Grand Seiko Birch Forest SLGH005. This isn’t the first time even this year that Seiko has taken design cues from nature; their 140th anniversary Prospex pieces (LINK) all use forest-green dials taken from the painfully pretty island of Iriomote island in Okinawa. This though is a lot more involved than the addition of some new livery and the Grand Seiko Birch Forest model is nothing short of breathtaking. The silver birch – or in local parlance, the Shirakaba – is a tree that can be found around Shizukuishi and Shinshu, the regions in which Grand Seiko have their studios and from where the exquisite Japanese collectors’ brand has drawn inspiration from before. Here, all of that inspiration is on the dial. The engraving is made to look as close to the fine, rippling bark of a birch tree as a solid piece of metal ever can and is quite rightly the focal point of the watch. It’s a softer finish compared to the clean-cut Zaratsu polishing of the case and catches the light in a more natural way. If someone told me that Seiko has used a piece of actual tree bark for the dial blank, I’d probably believe them. If you liked Grand Seiko’s snowflake dials, this is the next level up and trust me, you need to see it in the flesh. Otherwise, Grand Seiko has kept things restrained across the board. The Series 9 design is the watchmaker’s archetypal case and if you’ve tried on one before, you’ll know what to expect here. The Birch Forest uses the same sort of hands, overall faceted shape and superbly polished indexes that we’ve come to know and love. The 40mm stainless steel case sits well on the wrist and being full steel works in pretty much any circumstances. The watch is equipped with the 36,000 hz, 80-hour power reserve Hi-Beat movement, which is slimmer than the alternative Spring Drive option, a difference that follows through to the thickness of the case, 11.7mm vs. 11.8mm in similar series 9 models. I doubt you could even notice the difference, but I’d opt for the Hi-Beat for more than just its svelte size. On the reverse, it’s almost as beautiful as the dial, with an extraordinary level of finishing. It might not be quite the signature muscle flex of fine watchmaking that Spring Drive is, but it’s still an incredibly accurate movement complete with a hefty power reserve. In a watch that’s all about finishing, it’s the perfect movement.

The engraving is made to look as close to the fine, rippling bark of a birch tree as a solid piece of metal ever can and is quite rightly the focal point of the watch 135

If you’re a fan of Grand Seiko, I don’t doubt that you’re already in awe of this piece. I know I am. If not, then consider this as the best opportunity to understand what all the hype is about. The SLGH005 is everything we’ve come to know and love from the Japanese haute horology titan, crowned with one of the most beautiful, naturalistic dials to have emerged from their studios in years. And that’s saying a lot. £8,500, store.grandseikoboutique.uk

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 42mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • 1200S1 calibre automatic movement with 44-hour power reserve • £26,500, piaget.com

HANDS-ON WITH THE

PIAGET POLO SKELETON

137

FRONT — watch reviews

138

FRONT — watch reviews

Last year we had the Piaget Polo into our studio for a little video on best alternatives to the Patek Philippe Nautilus. I still stand by the aesthetic similarities between the two but honestly, after getting hands-on with an earlier Polo, I have to say I love it in and of itself. It skews far closer to elegant than sporty, as you’d expect from its equestrian name and its dimensions tend to be a lot more restrained than, say, Chopard’s Alpine Eagle. Now though the Piaget is out to avoid any and all comparisons to other watchmakers with their latest offering, the new Polo Skeleton. While the new watch has the same rounded square of a cushion-shaped 42mm stainless steel case that previous models have had, complete with the alternative brushed and polished surfaces, the Skeleton feels like a completely different animal. A good part of that is, while the diameter might be the same, the thickness is not. Piaget has always had a penchant for the ultra-thin and here they’ve made the most of their phenomenal 1200S1 calibre, a movement that measures just 2.4mm high. It means that the Polo, despite its sporty looks face-on comes 6.4mm off the wrist. Of course, you’d need to be blind not to appreciate the main thing the new watch has going for it. It’s in the name and all but defines the piece: skeletonization. I’ve never been a huge fan of overly skeletonised watches for the simple reason that I don’t particularly like the back of my wrist. I’m not saying it’s a crippling issue, but I’d much prefer to see a lovely dial than my pasty white skin. Thankfully there’s enough going on here that there’s only hints of vitamin E deficiency. Plus, what is there is beautiful. The various bridges and moving components catch the light incredibly, the blue PVD having just enough lustre to shine but without making the watch unreadable. It shows off not just the exceptional finishing of the movement but a glimpse into that ultra-thin movement is pure horological porn for any serious watch geek. I would say that like any skeleton watch there’s the pitfall of readability. The applied indexes do their best to stand out but the hands do still get a little lost particularly as they too are skeletonised. But then that’s all but an inevitability in this kind of watch and I’d argue that the overall look of the Polo Skeleton is well worth an extra half-second reading the time. On the wrist it feels phenomenal. I’m sure some wearers will have an issue with the ultra-slim silhouette feeling a little fragile, but for me the overall proportions of the case

It shows off not just the exceptional finishing of the movement but a glimpse into that ultra-thin movement is pure horological porn for any serious watch geek 139

stop it feeling like it’s about to snap. I’ve always been a fan of Piaget’s slimline Altiplanos anyway, so this combination of sporty style with that same kind of elegance on the wrist is a win-win situation. There are two versions of the watch depending on if you love Piaget’s signature blue or want something a little more subtle in the anthracite version. If you’re thinking of a skeleton watch, subtlety probably isn’t a priority. Either way, with the exceptionally comfortable bracelet and you have a watch that proves the Polo is much more than just another sports luxe contender. It’s not even playing the same game any more. £26,500, piaget.com

CULTURE — unsung heroes

Words:

Chris Youé

FUTURE VINTAGE HERO:

DE BETHUNE

The last 10 years have been notable for a huge surge of interest in so-called independent watch-making. Small ateliers, often lead by a singular watchmaker and always with a strong idea about which direction the craft should be heading.

140

CULTURE — unsung heroes

A classic in waiting, the undervalued DB25L model balances old-school design cues and Denis Flageollet’s technical flair

141

CULTURE — unsung heroes

Immediately identifiable and certainly no less exclusive, the Dream Watch’s case is made from blued meteorite and typical of De Bethune’s outlandish and playful approach

142

CULTURE — unsung heroes

We have seen two distinct ‘schools’ of independent watch-making develop: One lead by Francois Paul Journe and Philippe Dufour, tends to remain very focused on the historical aspects of watchmaking and design, often creating perfected versions of very old concepts. The other, at the avant-garde of materials and design, with Richard Mille the most visible exponent. Both have spawned some memorable auction highlights and they frequently command more and more column inches from watch journalists worldwide. Firmly in the ‘new school’ category, Denis Flageollet’s De Bethune seeks out the bleeding edge of horological tech, yet has often been overlooked by even the most hardcore collectors. Always distinctive, De Bethune’s creations are known for their space age looks incorporating delta-shield shapes, beautiful spherical moon-phases and the deep blues of delicately heat-treated Titanium. Denis’s team leave no area of modern wristwatch manufacture untouched in their focused pursuit of improvement. They have illuminated dials with mechanically powered lighting systems, rotors have been mounted on their own shock absorbers, and mainspring barrels are protected by user-tweaked variable winding. Even the case design is ripe for innovation, although often demanding a good deal of wrist-realestate, large 45mm cases feel like a 40mm thanks to perfectly sculpted, skeleton and occasionally articulated lugs that simply vanish on the wrist. Where their unique ingenuity has been particularly targeted is, to employ a sickeningly over used cliché, the beating heart of watchmaking, the escapement. What is truly breathtaking about De Bethune, is just how many innovations they have made in this system that was first invented in Georgian London. Ultralight silicon balance wheels countered with dense platinum weights, novel hairspring geometry have all been explored thoroughly by Flageollet’s team. Perhaps the most impressive (and one of my all time favourite escapements!) is their super aerodynamic annular balance, a perfectly flat, mirror-like silicon disc with a rim of white gold to provide maximum inertia with next to no aerodynamic loss. With a total production of less than 3,000 watches in nearly two decades, there is no argument that De Bethune are one of the most exclusive manufacturers in the market, so why aren’t technically savvy watch collectors flocking to them? Design wise, De Bethune have mastered the incredible trick of creating a family of watches, that are all immediately, identifiable as De Bethune. A perfectly rounded Maxichrono in classic rose gold, or a Dream Watch with case made from blued meteorite, could both have only come from one brand. Perhaps, however, the case designs feel too outlandish, too playful, for the traditionalist that

would typically appreciate such intellectually interesting calibres? The DB25L model in particular surely deserves more love from the wider community as a solid balance between old-school design cues and Flageollet’s technical flair. A more classically styled case (with very discreetly skeletonised lugs) is married to a traditional guilloche dial with Roman numerals but still maintaining the horological firepower of a platinum weighted titanium balance, silicon escape wheel and the signature spherical moon phase. Either way, the fact remains that when the book of 21st century watchmaking is written, De Bethune will command a solid early chapter. Anyone with an interest in where horology is heading should pay close attention…

Full of innovation, De Bethune watches are full of original touches like dials with mechanically powered lighting, rotors mounted on their own shock absorbers, and mainspring barrels protected by user-tweaked variable winding

143

BACK — in focus

IN FOCUS AN INSIGHT INTO THREE FASCINATING BRANDS Edited By

SAM KESSLER

Blanchet, Kurono and Ikepod

145

BACK — in focus

146

BACK — in focus

BLANCHET Every other month a newly revived name from watchmaking’s past seems to come back from the dead and their stories usually follow the same beats. A brand from the fifties and sixties made some cool, quirky designs only to meet their demise in the quartz crisis of the seventies. It’s a bio we’re heard time and time again. With their big, chunky diving watches it would be tempting to label heritage watch brand Blanchet in the same vein. Their timepieces tap into that same cool, utilitarian feel after all. Their timeline however is considerably different. For one, the brand spreads its historical roots all the way back to the late 1700s with watchmaker Jean Blanchet; for another, their timeline ends in 1914. Rather than any wartime issues though, their end came down to something far more relatable: a fire that destroyed their entire factory. Yep, that’ll definitely do it. Needless to say, the modern face of Blanchet is a good deal changed from what it was in the brand’s initial lifespan. Gone are the classical, regal styles of the past in favour of Italian-designed performance divers – and as far as we’re concerned it’s a welcome change. As a newly revived brand, Blanchet only has one watch to its name currently but it’s the kind of watch that makes a statement and the Deep Dive more than lives up to its name. For one, the Deep Dive boasts an impressive 100 bar water resistance. That’s 1,000m, 3,280ft or, in everyday terms, deeper than any sane person would want to go. That’s in good part thanks to the stainless steel monobloc case. After all, if there are no gaps in the case, there’s nowhere for water to get into. So far, so good, but for us it’s the design that makes the Blanchet Deep Dive a seriously covetable timepiece. The asymmetrical design with its four o’clock crown and integrated crown guard is reminiscent of the Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk and while the design didn’t work out all that well for the prestige watchmaker, here it’s spot on. In most variants, the watch is completed by an unusually monochromatic black and white unidirectional diving bezel which, with the raw steel or black DLC cases and black dials, makes for a stealthy, militaristic slant. For a few hundred dollars more you can also net yourself a GMT version, swapping the diving bezel for a 24-hour version using the skeletonised yellow, black and white second time zone hand. It’s only a slight change in look overall, but one that better shows Blanchet’s attention to detail with the unusual numeral font.

The Deep Dive is the only watch Blanchet produce and it lives up to its name with an impressive 1,000m depth limit

Gone are the classical, regal styles of the past in favour of Italian-designed performance divers To finish off the full package, both versions come equipped with COSC-certified automatic movements, either an ETA 2824 or SW 200, so accurate timekeeping is a given, even right down at that 1,000m depth limit. So what does a funkily designed diver with a specs sheet to play with the big boys set you back? Well, the deep dive starts at $2,650 – around about £1,915 – which isn’t bad at all. In fact, it might well be enough to put Blanchet back on the map where they belong. For more information, visit blanchetwatches.com

147

BACK — in focus

Kurono offers a more accessible alternative to the highly prized and collectable Hajime Asaoka slices of haute horological beauty

148

BACK — in focus

KURONO Hajime Asaoka is a name more collectors should know about. The independent Japanese watchmaker has been working under the radar since releasing his first tourbillon in 2009, creating superlative works of haute horological beauty. That does however mean that the numbers of his watches are limited. Extremely limited. If you need to ask how to get hold of one, you probably can’t. Fortunately, there is an alternative to having the watchmaker’s name on the dial: Kurono by Hajime Asaoka. Rather than the maestro himself getting hands-on with each and every piece, Kurono offers a more accessible take on the same kind of designs. To some collectors this might seem like a bit of a cop-out, a compromise on quality for the sake of greater production. But it was born of a frustration from Asaoka’s side. As the watchmaker says: “it has always been my worry that there will be a segment of customers that want a Hajime Asaoka watch, but will not be able to get one easily if at all. So, I wanted to create something that was more easily accessible, and faster to deliver.” Of course it would be frustrating that Asaoka couldn’t share his designs as widely as he’d like and that collectors are missing out. It’s a situation that nobody wants to be in on either side of the fence. In that light, Kurono makes a lot of sense – and a good deal more when you actually see the watches. You see, while the hand-crafted nature of Kurono watches has been understandably sacrificed on the alter of accessibility, the designs have not, something demonstrated nicely in the new Chronograph 2. The new chronograph is rooted firmly in the mechanical timekeepers of the sixties but, like Asaoka’s own watches, has a distinct art deco slant. On the one hand, you have a retro bi-compax layout complete with a technical-looking minute track; on the other you have the beautiful mix of copper, silver and dark brown first used in Kurono’s earlier time-only Reiwa watches. Perhaps more unusually is the tachymeter which rather than being flung to the outer edge of the bezel is far closer to the centre of the dial, intersecting the elapsed time and seconds subdials, both of which are finished with their own guilloche for a textural contrast with the main body of the dial. Even the hands, which take after Japanese kyudo arrows are impressive. The Chronograph 2 offers a level of finishing you just don’t get in accessible watchmaking. Every detail has been thought out perfectly without compromise to the point that you’d assume the watch would cost well in the region of 5k; more if you compare it to some of the bigger players out there.

Every detail has been thought out perfectly without compromise to the point that you’d assume the watch would cost in the region of 5k Really the only reason it’s not is the fact that the movement, a solid-yet-accessible NE86A, isn’t in-house. It doesn’t really need to be either, especially when it means that the Chronograph 2 will set you back well under £3,000. If that’s not a good enough reason to sit up and pay attention to Kurono by Hajime Asaoka and, by extension, the master watchmaker himself, nothing is. Find out more at kuronotokyo.com

149

BACK — in focus

150

BACK — in focus

IKEPOD Back before microbrands brought a fresh approach back to small-scale watchmaking, back before even watchmakers like Ressence, Urwerk and MB&F made independent haute horology cool, there was Ikepod. Back in the nineties, Ikepod’s unique approach to watchmaking paved the way for concept watches and sleek limited editions, pioneering larger case sizes and artistic collaborations. Their iconic Hemipode is still a cult classic to this day and in the 2000s they counted Kaws and Jeff Koons among their fans. That was until it was put on hold just under a decade ago, losing Ikepod’s original designer in the process. But it’s not just names dredged up from the 1800s or taken from the raft of sixties diving brands that are worth reviving and last year Ikepod followed the launch of the Duopod, Ikepod and two Kickstarter models in 2018 with the Megapod. Aesthetically it’s like the brand never missed a beat. If Ikepod’s earlier watches were UFOs then the Megapod is their new mothership. And the similarities to a UFO aren’t just metaphorical, either. Ikepod watches are defined by their flying saucer case shape, a tactile, rounded river pebble of a watch, part sleek minimalism, part playful, pop-art fun. The Megapod sits at a hefty 46mm across, while the Chronopod, a direct descendant of the Hemipode, measures in at 44mm. They’re big to be sure, but the perfectly circular shape and resultant lack of lugs means that they feel much smaller on the wrist. The dials are just as aesthetically satisfying, though with entirely new design chops behind them. The Chronopod and smaller Duopod are both designed by Emmanuel Gueit, a designer that has worked with Piaget, Hermes and Rolex, and is the man behind the Royal Oak Offshore, riffing on Gerald Genta’s original octagonal icon. The Megapod on the other hand is in the hands of Alexandre Peraldi, previously of Baume & Mercier fame. With that kind of design talent on hand, it’s no surprise that Ikepod watches are more a design choice than a horological one. While the Megapod uses a reliable yet fuss-free Miyota 9039 automatic movement, both of Ikepod’s smaller lines instead opt for quartz. Accurate, but not for the watchmaking purists out there. It is however for the more artistically-inclined. Ikepod has been working with artists for 25 years and it makes sense that for the new generation of watches they’ve once again taken the same approach, most recently with lauded American painter Tom Christopher. The Megapod MTC1 Skaters in the Sky embodies the painter’s optimistic outlook, with a dial border of colourful cityscape and a mix of swallows and skaters

If Ikepod’s earlier watches were UFOs then the Megapod is their new mothership dotting the clouds at the centre of the watch. The sheer size of the Megapod makes for a broad, distinctive canvas and, limited to 200 pieces – only 50 of which will be available in the first batch – it’s only slightly easier to get hold of than a Tom Christopher original. Between their signature case shape that helped define nineties watch design, the creative muscle behind their new generation and the artistic collaborations that still define the brand, Ikepod is back in a big way. Almost as big as a Megapod. Find out more contact: Andy Good - www.thedevoygroup.com

151

oracle insights

Vivvant Alexis Jodhpur Boots

O r a c le

INSIGHTS THE THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT AND WHY YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT THEM.

BAVARIA WATCH

OSMARI – SHORTIES PASTEL WONDER

The traditional heartland of German watchmaking may be Glashutte, but outside of the remote town there’s a thriving horological scene with plenty of creative brands like the Munich-based Bavaria Watch. The specs of their debut piece are in line with tried and tested divers’ watches, but the Bavaria Watch’s looks are anything but. They follow the golden ratio for an aesthetically harmonious yet distinctly modern look, defined by strong lugs and an otherwise minimal, stripped-back look. Available in blue, black and white and with an array of strap options, the Bavaria watch will soon be launching on Kickstarter. For more information and to see all options, visit bavarian-watch.com.

The male body can be a taboo subject, especially at the beach where you’ll encounter heaps of dull board shorts and the often ridiculed speedo. Osmari want men to take pride in their appearance, creating a range of sport-luxe swimwear that is functional and dare I say, a little bit sexy. Take these Pastel Wonder shorties; they’re comfortable and supportive, made from firm material, yet their lavender colour and form fitting waistline means you’ll be catching looks. So, how’s your summer body coming along? $62 (approx. £45),osmari.com

Airspeeder Mk3. The flying car industry is predicted to be worth $1.5 trillion by 2050 and Australian company Alauda are keen to get a head start. Over the past three years they have developed the Airspeeder Mk3, a fully electric flying vehicle that is advanced enough that the inaugural Airspeeder international race series will begin this year. While the Mk3 is piloted remotely, by 2022 they hope to have professional drivers inside the vehicles creating a sport to rival F1. Find out more at airspeeder.com

152

Between their unmistakable British flair and the classical Italian craftsmanship behind each pair of shoes, Vivvant offers the perfect balance of modern, masculine style and traditionally excellent quality. The Alexis Jodhpur boots in stone-grey combine sumptuous suede and a dashing silhouette with a robust rubber sole for a stylishly practical pair. With subtle details across the toes, the straps and the triple V that is the brand’s signature on the heel, they embody Vivvant’s elegant, crosscontinental outlook on shoemaking. £278, vivvant.co.uk

SPINNAKER HELP FOR HEROES We all need a bit of feel-good philanthropy now and then, especially if it comes wrapped in a handsome, colourful and eminently affordable package like this. Accessible watchmaker Spinnaker have given their rugged Spence automatic diving watch a makeover in the livery of Help for Heroes, with proceeds from each watch going directly to the charity for ex-servicemen. Even without the charity angle, it’s a good-looking timepiece, so it’s a win-win all round. £225 from spinnaker-watches.co.uk

oracle insights

JEAN ROUSSEAU – CLASSIC 3.5 WATCH STRAP PINEAPPLE RUST For over 65 years Jean Rousseau have been creating handmade leather goods to an exceptional standard. Their dedication to the craft is exemplified by their focus not just on the appearance of the leather, but its feel and texture – the velvet-like softness of a watch strap on your wrist or the physicality of a bag on your shoulder. Even this fairly basic Classic 3.5 strap is wrought with the highest technical skill and can be produced in the full range of Jean Rousseau’s leathers. Just imagine their electric blue alligator strap! £165, jean-rousseau.com

TRIBAL EYES KA Recent events have shown just how important Personal Protective Equipment is, it can save lives. Which is why a proportion of every sale of Tribal Eyes’ eyewear goes towards procuring protective eye goggles for African hospitals. That alone is enough reason to buy them. Throw in the fact that they come in the stylish traditional patterns and colours of Africa, such as the KA’s earthy palette and classic motifs, and you have some seriously cool, and potentially lifesaving, products. $250 (approx. £180), tribaleyesshop.com

Leica - Q2 Daniel Craig x Greg Williams Leica is one of the top producers of cameras in the world, with quality that is capable of making us stop and really look at the pictures that are taken with them. Their latest limited edition is a celebration of James Bond in a sleek black and gold design, created as a collaboration between Daniel Craig and photographer Greg Williams. The Leica Q2 is iconic in its own right, frequently described as the perfect tool to capture stunning moments with. £5,600, leica-camera.com

DASHING TWEEDS MADE-TO-MEASURE JACKET

The Chimes Antique Clocks There’s so much to talk about with wristwatches that we often find ourselves neglecting other forms of timepieces. That kind of neglect would never be found at antiqueclock.co.uk, which specialise in selling rare and collectable long case (grandfather) clocks, wall clocks and mantel clocks. They have a huge range of styles on offer from many different time periods and works of art crafted by the finest clockmakers. You can book an appointment to visit or check out the full list of timepieces on their website. Find out more at antique-clock.co.uk

153

Gone are the days of Tweed as the preserve of the country lord. These days the diverse materials is one of the most versatile in menswear, particularly when you can have your tweed of choice turned into a made-to-measure piece like this handsome jacket. Exceptionally crafted by the textile specialists at the aptly named Dashing Tweeds, they can tailor any of their many, many sumptuous fabrics into a jacket, waistcoat, trousers or full suit of your choice. The only problem might be deciding where to start. £925, dashingtweeds.co.uk

BACK — microbrand corner

MICROBRAND

CORNER THE SPECS

• 40mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Seiko NH35A automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve • €812 (approx. £705), unimaticwatches.com

From Avant Garde design to accessible haute horology, this is the latest and greatest from the creative world of microbrand watchmaking

Unimatic

X Norwegian Rain U1-NR-NRN A collaboration between ultra-limited Italian watch brand Unimatic and ultra-cool performance outerwear brand Norwegian Rain, this pair of timepieces – one stainless steel, one DLC black – are defined by their unique take on a sandwich dial, with green oxidised copper giving way to bright brushed copper underneath and matched with skeletonised copper hands. Paired with Unimatic’s ever-rugged U1 case, we want one. Good luck though; with a total of 93 pieces, they’re probably sold out already. unimaticwatches.com

155

BACK — microbrand corner

Horage Autark T5

Translating to ‘independence’ Biel-based watchmaker Horage have certainly been forging their own path over the last couple of years, with modular in-house movements and cool, quirky designs. For their latest, they’ve given that industrial style a naturlistic twang with the new Autark T5, the stand-out of which is this ‘Jura Green’ number. It lacks the notched bezel of the HV version but shares the silicon escapement movement and titanium case material.

THE SPECS

• 39mm titanium case with 100m water resistance • K1 automatic movement with 65-hour power reserve • CHF 3,500 (approx. £2,800), horage.info

horage.info

Fine Watches Berlin TEUFELSBERG Rosé #4

The father-and-daughter duo behind Fine Watches Berlin have a penchant for understated, elegant designs that straddle the line between classical dress watches and Bauhaus cool. Their latest in the Teufelsberg collection takes that one step further, pairing the stripped back round case and minimal white dial with luxurious rose gold numerals and flashes of playful blue and red. It’s a retro, bi-colour look and, as is the case with all of their watches, far more affordable than it looks. finewatches.berlin

THE SPECS

• 40.5mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Miyota cal. 8218 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • €698,00 (approx. £605), finewatches.berlin

156

BACK — microbrand corner

THE SPECS

• 36mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Ronda 772 quartz movement with 34-month batter life • £180, instrmnt.co.uk

Instrmnt The Dress Watch

Any good dress would should be an understated, elegant, less-is-more affair without all the bells, whistles and rugged cases of other timepieces. Instrmnt, with their design-led, industrial approach to watchmaking have built one entirely fit for purpose. The Dress Watch is a svelte 36mm across with a beautifully minimal white dial, evoking the formal timepieces of the sixties. Equipped with a fuss-free and reliable Swiss quartz movement from Ronda, it’s also nicely accessible. instrmnt.co.uk

157

BACK — microbrand corner

Second Hour The Mandala

Bringing the quirky, colourful design of their incredibly successful Gin Clear Diver to a dressier timepiece, The Mandala treads carefully between sports and elegance. The impressively decorated dial with its mandala swirls is eyecatching enough in black and grey, but for our money it’s all about the incredible salmon. Backed by a solid case and an eye for detail above and beyond what they’ve done before, The Mandala is a huge leap from where Second Hour were before, proof that they’re a brand to keep a close eye on. secondhour.com.au

THE SPECS • 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Miyota 9039 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • $740 AUD (Approx. £410), secondhour.com.au

158

BACK — microbrand corner

Wolbrook

Skindiver WT Professional ChronoMecaquartz For most diving watches their strippedback, time-only look is a necessity, a focal point of underwater survivability. On the flipside though, it does restrict exactly how useful they are, how many situations you can actually use your timepiece. Given most collectors’ watches won’t see the water, that’s pretty limiting. The latest edition of Wolbrook’s legendary Skindiver however has no such limits. The Skindiver WT Professional ChronoMecaquartz sounds like a technical beast because it is. Not only does it include an incredibly precise movement in the form of

Seiko’s famous Mecaquartz, but it uses said movement to power a solid chronograph. An underwater chronograph is generally a risk in a diving watch, particularly when it doesn’t have screw-down pushers, as is the case here. Despite that though, the Skindiver WI Professional ChronoMecaquartz boasts 100m water resistance. That’s not really enough to go deep-sea diving, but more than enough for everyday water risks. Wolbrook has really leaned into that daily wear vibe with their dual-scale bezel, too. The inner edge uses a classic diving scale with minute track, while the outer can be used as a worldtimer. It’s still a 120-click unidirectional number, meaning it won’t get knocked in a way that makes you think you have more air than you do. The worldtimer addition just means it’s

159

useful out of the water, too. The dial, while obviously technical, is still easy to read, even underwater. That’s because only the local time indexes and hands are lumed, drawing attention to the necessary info in low-light conditions without distraction. Essentially, when it’s needed this version of the Skindiver is a perfectly practical diver. When it’s not, it works as a great everyday timepiece. Combined with a comfortable bund strap and an incredibly accurate movement with about three years of battery life, the Wolbrook Skindiver WT Professional Chrono-Mecaquartz proves that not every decent diver needs to be militantly utilitarian. The fact that it’s surprisingly affordable is just the icing on the cake. From £258, wolbrook.com

END — moviewatch

OUT OF TIME

Steve Carrell’s Mark Baum wears a Submariner 116610 despite it not being released for another half decade after the crash

M OVIE WATC H

The Big Short It would be remiss of us to end our investment issue without discussing arguably the greatest modern movie on the subject – and no, I don’t mean the sheer debauchery of Wolf of Wall Street. We’ve already done that masterpiece of obscenity. No, we mean the real-life story of The Big Short. Before the US housing crisis of the mid-2000s, a group of hedge fund managers headed by one Michael Blurry had an inkling that offering multiple mortgages to anyone that asked was a bad idea. Go figure. Where every other investment institution was banking (sorry) on continued buoyancy, Blurry and his group readied for the inevitable crash. The result was that they individually made millions. Good for them, not great for the following economic depression. Anyway, while the film is an absolute masterclass in explaining tricky financial concepts – including those necessary to understand the current Game Stop debacle - it also nailed its watch game. Almost. These are hedge fund managers we’re talking about so none of them are going to have crap wrist candy. Jared Bennet of Deutche Bank, played by Ryan Gosling on camera, opts for an IWC Portugieser, a sleek, sporty number with a chronograph

160

and a black dial. It’s a nice watch in and of itself, but given Rolex dominates the rest of the film – because of course it does – it’s good to see another watchmaker in there. However, while Gosling is happy to break the fourth wall throughout the film to explain the tricky financial concepts therein, he’s not the only one. Enter chef Anthony Bourdain, comparing the housing market to a rotten halibut while wearing a lovely stainless steel Datejust. It’s on point for the film but is actually part of Bourdain’s own impressive watch collection. The only issue in fact comes with Steve Carrell’s Mark Baum. Not because his Submariner 116610 with a Cerachrom bezel doesn’t suit the character, but that it was released half a decade after the crash. The high-spec diver is so close to being perfect but alas, the devil’s in the details. 10/10 for style, 7/10 for accuracy. The film that is, not the watch. What we’d like to see more of instead is the watch on of Baum’s unnamed colleague sports: a Rolex Oysterquartz, the quirky, battery-powered number that’s still remarkably affordable today. In fact, it’s one of expert James Dowling’s tips for a great investment watch right now. For now though, if the Big Short is anything to go by there’s good mileage in films about investing. We’ll be looking forward to the upcoming Netflix cinematic event: Wall St. Bets, the movie.