Oracle Time - Issue 76 - The Adventure Issue by Oracle Time Magazine

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .76

The Peak Condition Overseas

VACHERON CONSTANTIN The Adventure Issue SKY-HIGH STYLE | EXPEDITION ESSENTIALS | 50 YEARS OF THE EXPLORER II

ISSUE 76

5.95

ORACLE TIME #76

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Fraser Vincent Watch: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chrono Everest

Ah the call of adventure! Granted, after the last year of becoming involuntary shut-ins a trip into central London still feels like a bit of an expedition, but hey, one step at a time. And as borders open up, finally we can start thinking about, just maybe, seeking out new horizons. That might sound daunting, but if there’s anything that’s going to instil a sense of wanderlust for the remote regions of the Earth, it’s Dominic Bliss’s interview with Scottish explorer, adventurer and ex-Marine sniper, Aldo Kane. Want to know what a regular visitor to Svalbard needs in his kit bag? Turn to page 92. While Aldo Kane may favour a Bremont as his rugged timekeeper of choice, there are plenty of other options for would-be explorers to rely on, from G-Shock to Montblanc. Whether you’re after something built to be abused or more of a thematically alpine piece with luxury undercurrents, our adventure watch guide on page 57 has you covered. Of course, as I’m sure many collectors reading this already know, there’s one particular timepiece that’s not only designed for adventure, but is celebrating 50 years of surviving the elements: the Explorer II. So why is Rolex’s sequel to their Everest-conquering watch so legendary? And what does it’s 2021 update mean for the timepiece? Timothy Barber finds out on page 51. Speaking of Everest, Rolex isn’t the only watchmaker this issue with a relationship to the world’s tallest peak; it’s the crucible through which our cover star for this issue was forged. Back in 2019, National Geographic photographer Cory Richards made one of the hardest ascents to the roof of the world ever attempted. On his wrist was a prototype Overseas. Two years later, here it is in the sporty metal: the Overseas Everest edition. More about the new pair of pieces on page 42. Because it’s hard to leave Everest once you’ve gone up, we’ve also taken the opportunity to delve into a mountain conquering brand that you may not have heard of – but really, really should have: Enicar. As you’ll find out on page 139, though they summited a few years after the watch with the crown, they’re nonetheless on the rise as a serious vintage hero brand. If even Everest isn’t quite high enough for you, the likelihood is that you’re into your aviation. Well, we have you covered there too with our style shoot this issue. Shot at London’s most authentic Philadelphia dive bar, Passyunk Avenue, we’ve paired cockpit ready looks (think overalls and plenty of Shearling) with some of the coolest pilots’ pieces around. We’ve even managed to pair something with the Bell & Ross Red Radar. Seriously. It’s on page 78. Heading upwards from the sky leaves only the stratosphere – which, as you’ll find out on page 120 might be closer to being reachable than you might think. Since Bezos and Branson both headed into space last month, commercial space flight feels right around the corner. But is it? That would be telling. Go read about it. In the meantime, stay safe and stay sane, wherever your adventures take you. As ever, enjoy this issue. Sam Kessler, Editor

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ORACLE TIME #76

CONTRIBUTORS WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk SUB EDITOR

Dan Mobbs

Shane C. Kurup

Shane is a men’s style editor who has worked for a range of leading titles, including The MR PORTER Journal, Men’s Health UK, Esquire US, PORT, The Telegraph and Wallpaper*. He’s rather partial to a jazzy silk shirt, wide-leg trousers and a gin and Dubonnet (or three).

Dominic Bliss

Shane Hegarty

Dominic Bliss is a London-based journalist, specialising in long-form feature writing for the likes of National Geographic, Men’s Health and GQ. His late grandfather once owned a beautiful antique Jaeger-LeCoultre watch, an heirloom which sadly ended up on the wrist of another member of the family.

Shane Hegarty discovered watches eight years ago, innocently thinking one new watch would be nice before he fell down the rabbit hole of independents, vintage and back into modern. A bestselling children’s author, he also writes a weekly column for the Irish edition of The Sunday Times.

Timothy Barber

Aidy Smith

is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers. He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped.

Timothy Barber’s writing on watches has appeared in the Daily Telegraph, the Financial Times, Wired and the Economist’s 1843 magazine, among others. The Telegraph’s former watch editor, and before that editor of QP Magazine, he’s close to accepting that ‘watch journalist’ is actually a thing.

danmobbs@hotmail.com JUNIOR COPYWRITER

Michael Sonsino michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Kirsty Illingworth kirsty@opulentmedia.co.uk DIRECTOR

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk MANAGING EDITOR / CO-FOUNDER

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7875 4615

Thor Svaboe

As the sole Norwegian who doesn’t like snow or climbing mountains, Thor has honed his florid writing skills at Time + Tide, and is now an editor at Fratello Watches. This Viking would fearlessly go into battle under the banner of independent watchmaking, and his End Game watch would be the piece unique Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1.

George Parker george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7875 4616 SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Phil Peachey Phil.peachey@opulentmedia.co.uk 0203 985 1414 OT MAGAZINE is published monthly by Opulent Media 020 7875 4615

Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

ORACLE TIME #76

CONTENTS

O T M A G A Z I N E / I S S U E 76

18 — AFICIONADO

42 — CONQUERING EVEREST

Read more about what’s on our radar and what should be in your basket this month

28 — NEWS

A round-up of all the latest from the world of horology and luxury living

38 — ASK THE ORACLE

Shane Hegarty tests a G-Shock against the weight of his car

51 — UNPACKING THE EXPLORER II

The contrarian’s sports watch is 50, but is the 2021 update a credit to the spelunking classic

Inspired by a mountain top prototype, Vacheron scale new heights with their latest take on the sporty new Overseas

The Everest is a welcome departure from the Overseas norm of a sportylooking luxury, but inside has all the loveliness you’d expect from a Bond Street heavyweight Conquering Everest — p42

ORACLE TIME #76

CONTENTS

78 — FLY BOY

We take the fliest fashion and timepieces from the stratosphere to the street

92 — GEARING UP

Adventurer and ex-Marine sniper Aldo Kane needs kit to meet brief – survival

103 — 007 STYLE

A selection of Daniel Craig’s most iconic James Bond looks and how to get them

109 — MAN OF INFLUENCE

The A. Lange & Sohne CEO takes exhibiting cars and watch education very seriously

120

113 — WATCH REVIEWS OT gets hands on with watches from Farer and Gucci

120 — THE FINAL FRONTIER

It’s the ultimate adventure, but when will commercial space travel be viable?

135 — FIRE IN HIS BELLY

William Wood’s founder on turning points, inspiration and making a difference 51

“I always smile when I see watchmakers releasing a limited edition of 2,000. I think, ‘shit! That’s half my production!” Man of Influence — p109

57 — IT’S ADVENTURE TIME

The horological survivalists that should be part of every would-be explorer’s kit

67 — TIME TRAVEL

The finest watches need the finest storage, so we’ve rolled five into one handy guide

139 — UNSUNG VINTAGE HERO

The adventuring watchmaker you never knew about – but most definitely should

142 — IN FOCUS

An authentic diver, a charitable tribe and a double chronograph are under the spotlight

149 – MICROBRAND CORNER

The freshest timepieces from small scale independents

160 – MOVIE WATCH I feel the need... to watch an eighties icon and the surprising watch featured

edited by: MICHAEL SONSINO

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

FRONT — aficionado

TWISTED ADVENTURE

Land Rover Defender specialists Twisted Automotive have taken a plunge into the world of boats with a new range of Twisted Adventure RIBs. Based on the Cobra Nautique range, they’re available in sizes from 6.2m to 8.7m and can house up to 500bhp in their outboard motors. The largest of the collection, the 8.7m, is codenamed #R001 and can carry 12 people in its rearrangeable seating. It has twin mercury engines and its forward-curved A-frame is ideal for water sports. #R001 £170,000, available from twistedautomotive.com

FRONT — aficionado

OVER THE SEA TO SKYE

The historic Kinloch Lodge on the shores of Loch Na Dal in Skye is celebrating its 50th anniversary with a fresh new menu and outdoor wilderness experiences. You can join the estate’s Ghillie (think a Gaelic supercharged gamekeeper), Mitchell Partridge as he guides you through fishing, deer stalking, foraging, outdoor cooking and wild walks. Then it’s back to the lodge for open fires, plenty of whisky and sustainably sourced food which is grown on site. Rooms from £160pp, wilderness experiences from £240 for two people. Find out more at kinloch-lodge.co.uk

FRONT — aficionado

H. MOSER & CIE. STREAMLINER PERPETUAL

Perpetual calendars are one of horology’s most prestigious complications, but they also tend to have a high barrier to entry, both in terms of price and complexity. However, the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar does away with all the subdials and visual noise that often accompanies the complication and instead shows off its retro-modern aesthetic. Quite possibly the most refined perpetual calendar this year and all the more gorgeous for it. CHF 49,900 (approx. £39,250) available from h-moser.com

FRONT — aficionado

DEFENDER V8 BOND EDITION

Bond is firmly in the zeitgeist at the moment and Land Rover’s Defender V8 Bond Edition is ideal for anyone who likes their off road experience to be suave. Or you know, just look menacing as you cruise around the city. Available as either a Defender V8 90 or 110, it includes an extended Black Pack with 22” gloss black alloy wheels, Xenon blue front brakes and a Defender 007 rear badge. And, there are plenty of 007 references inside too. Limited to 300 vehicles worldwide with 15 in the UK. Find out more at landrover.com

FRONT — aficionado

EYE ON THE BALL

The Orb is the latest wacky creation to come from MB&F’s longstanding collaboration with Swiss clockmaker L’Epée. As its name suggests, this clock is more or less perfectly spherical with the dial as a focal point like the iris of an eye. However, it’s more complicated than simply being the horological equivalent of a Magic 8 Ball because the sphere can be opened. With its four panels fully open, the clock stands completely upright like a strange spaceship that has landed on Earth.

CHF 30,700 (approx. £24,400) available from mbandf.com

FRONT — aficionado

A JAPANESE WHISKY DREAM

The House of Suntory’s Yamazaki 55 whisky is making its global debut after an exclusive release in Japan last year. Only 100 bottles of the liquid, which has passed through the stewardship of five master blenders, are available at select retailors including Harrods and Claridge’s. On the nose, expect wood and smoke but on the palate Yamazaki’s signature tropical fruit is evident, resulting in the glorious flavours of barbequed banana and plenty of Mizunara oak. Presented in an engraved crystal bottle with plenty of Japanese artisanry, this is something truly special – even by 50-year-old standards. $60,000 (approx. £43,600), available from Harrods, Claridge’s and selected retailers

FRONT — aficionado

MASTERPIECE DEFINED

The word ‘masterpiece’ gets thrown around quite a lot, enough that it’s begun to lose some of its meaning over time. It’s generally hyperbolic, an over-the-top way of saying that something’s pretty good. In the case of Vitus however, it describes their flagship series perfectly. The Masterpiece Series is, as the name suggests, the finest range of audio products audio maestro Hans-Ole Vitus has ever produced – which is saying a lot. Since their first products landed in 2003, the Danish brand has proven to be one of the leading lights in amplifiers, players and digital-toanalogue converters. Over the last two decades they’ve honed their distinctive take on high end audio to a fine point, one that’s culminated in the Masterpiece Series. Technologically, it’s designed to be the ultimate reference series and it looks the part. Stark, black and impeccably machined with imposing front plates and the kind of weight that promises quality, they’re self-assured rather than flashy. Sure, they’re pricey – nothing of this level comes cheap – but it’s worth every penny. You’ll never need another system. Or want one, for that matter. For more information and to discover the full Masterpiece collection, visit vitusaudio.com

FRONT — aficionado

SCOTTISH STYLE EXEMPLIFIED

Whisky and tweed, two of Scotland’s most renowned exports, especially from the Isle of Harris where both are being produced by The Isle of Harris Distillery. While their expertise might be in drink, they’ve been collaborating with local tweed experts since 2018 and last year saw a limited edition release of their Distillery Harris Tweed Jacket, which is now available made-to-order for the first time. It combines a dark Harris tweed fabric with teal velvet inspired by the Hebridean Sea. £660 including UK delivery, available from harrisdistillery.com

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS

DJOKOVIC ACES HUBLOT SPONSORSHIP Sure, it’s been a couple of weeks since Emma Raducanu had her landmark win in New York, but as British success is a rare thing, forgive us for basking in the afterglow. She also made a spectacular showing at the MET Gala. In bigger tennis news though, after years at Seiko, Novak Djokovic finally has a new

watch sponsor and it’s a big one (both literally and figuratively) – Hublot! The legendary player will undoubtedly have a limited edition to call his own soon, but in the meantime don’t expect to see him playing with a Classic Fusion on his wrist. Finally, Hublot has an ambassador to match Rolex’s Federer and Richard Mille’s Nadal. hublot.com

Finally, Hublot has an ambassador to match Rolex’s Federer and Richard Mille’s Nadal

FRONT — world news

SEIKO’S ‘BRITISH’ UK NATO STRAPS Seiko have released a limited edition collection of four NATO straps, exclusive to the UK, inspired by the ‘shades of Britain’. The straps are designed for the Seiko Sport 5 range, although take it from us, they’ll look good on a great variety of watches. There are 100 of each design available. The first is a deep blue for the sea around Britain, the second is forest green for our verdant countryside, then there’s a sky blue one for the sky above and a sandy brown for the coastline. £65, from the UK Online store at seikowatches.com

There are 100 of each design available. The first is a deep blue for the sea around Britain, the second is forest green for our verdant countryside

ORIS CHANGE FOR BETTER DAYS Oris have maintained their strong dedication to sustainable watchmaking following the release of the Oris Upcycle with their yearly Change For Better Days taking place over the end of September and early October. This year the focus is on community as Oris Sustainability Ambassadors invite families to join them for giant litter picking and beach combing excursions in a wide variety of international locations, including London, Madrid and Moscow. Find out more at oris.ch/en/ changeforthebetterdays

AMAFFI RELAUNCH SLOANE STREET BOUTIQUE AND PLEDGE AID TO NHS Following a redesign, Amaffi have relaunched their Sloane Street boutique to coincide with the Chelsea Flower Show at the end of last month. The masters of fragrance and perfume have a long history with the flower

They gifted the Chelsea Garden to the local hospital

show and following the cancellation of the show last year they gifted the Amaffi RHS Chelsea Garden to the local NHS hospital. They have recently announced that they will continue to fund the upkeep of that garden for the good of patients and frontline workers. You can visit the Amaffi Sloane Street boutique at 8 Sloane Street, London, SW1X 9LE.

FRONT — world news

GRAND PRIX D’HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE (GPHG) ANNOUNCE SHORTLIST The GPHG is the Oscars of the watch world; the most anticipated and lauded award possible for a watch to achieve. The 2021 shortlist was recently announced in all categories. Some of our favourites are the Tudor Black Bay 925 in the ‘Iconic’ category, Breitling Premier B09 Chronograph 40 in ‘Chronograph’ and Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy in ‘Challenge’. You can check out the full shortlist on the Oracle Time website. Find out more at gphg.org

The GPHG is the Oscars of the watch world; the most anticipated and lauded award possible for a watch to achieve

007 AT THE NATIONAL MOTOR MUSEUM The National Motor Museum in Beaulieu has announced an upcoming exhibition entitled Bond In Motion – No Time To Die, although if we were in charge it would’ve been called No Time To Drive… Needless to say the exhibit will include all of the Bond vehicles that have become iconic over the years including his Silver Birch Aston Martin DB5 and Triumph Scrambler. It will also provide the first opportunity to get up close with new vehicles from the recently released film. Opening October 15, tickets available from beaulieu.co.uk

TAJ THE CHAMBERS LAUNCHES IN LONDON Looking for a members’ club with a little more opulence? With the first European outpost of Indian-born Taj The Chambers, studio Conran & Partners have brought the luxury hard. A mix of business and pleasure, the club – sequestered in the grand Taj 51 Buckingham Gate – you can expect serious cocktails at the bar, punchy Indian food in the lounge and private work pods for uninterrupted productivity, underpinned at every point by the kind of over-the-top Looking for a service the group’s known for. members’ club Find out more at with opulence? tajhotels.com

FRONT — world news

IWC PILOT’S WATCH BLUE ANGELS EDITION IWC has released the latest watches to come from their longstanding collaborations with the US Navy. The trio of watches are ceramic takes on the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph, each dedicated to an iconic Navy squadron: Royal Maces, Tophatters and Blue Angels. They are each produced in the unit’s colour scheme and prominently feature the squadron’s patch at six o’clock on the small seconds subdial. Of the three, the vibrant teal and yellow composition of the Blue Angels edition is the most striking. Blue Angels, £10,090 from iwc.com

The trio of watches are ceramic takes on the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph, each dedicated to an iconic Navy squadron: Royal Maces, Tophatters and Blue Angels

GUESS T H E WATCH

Honestly, if you didn’t get last issue’s silhouette at a glance, where have you been? The Nautilus is already an iconic timepiece in every way imaginable, but its final, green-dialled hurrah? That’s the stuff of collecting legend.

So, this time we’ve gone for a piece that has its roots in the early days of exploration and the marine chronometers that made cross-ocean expeditions possible. These days it’s not the most famous watch the Swiss brand has produced – that would be something a good deal more avant garde – but it’s the most classical expression of the watchmaker’s 1846 roots. If you think you know, drop our editor an email at sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk for your chance to win a print subscription for yourself or a fellow watch lover. CHECK BACK NEXT ISSUE FOR THE ANSWER

what is the

WATCH

FRONT — introducing

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VISIT THERE ARE LOTS OF WAYS to get your Oracle Time fix. Our favourite is of course within these lovely glossy pages to which you can subscribe via our website. An annual subscription containing 10 issues of the magazine is only £59.50, more value than a serious microbrand watch. Alternatively, you can come and say hello on one of our many digital channels. Instagram is the perfect place to share your wristshots and thoughts with us – remember to use the #OTWristshot. Or you can watch our latest video content on YouTube, listening to the dulcet tones of our editor via our website using the QR code above.

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FRONT — introducing

NEWS

INTRO DUCING BELL & ROSS BR05 GMT

After launching their own cockpit-slanted sports luxe timepiece back in 2019, the BR05 has done pretty well for Bell & Ross and it’s no surprise they’ve been focusing on it a fair bit. What is a surprise is that it’s taken the watchmaker this long to add a GMT function to the formula; as their new release shows, it’s a perfect fit. It’s a subtle change, merely adding a red GMT hand, but it makes this one of the coolest traveller’s timepieces of the year. Which is saying a lot.

IN DETAIL •

41mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance •

BR-CAL.325 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve •

From £4,100, bellross.com

A.LANGE & SÖHNE

1815 Chronograph for Concorso d’Eleganza

Elegant classic car shows and German fine watchmaking have gone hand-in-hand ever since A. Lange & Sohne became the timepiece sponsor of various Concours around the world. To hammer home that relationship, the Glashutte-based horological maestros have created a unique salmon dialled version of their classical 1815 Chronograph, which will be awarded to the winner of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este. It’s a beauty.

IN DETAIL

39.5mm white gold case with 30m water resistance L951.5 calibre manual-wind movement with 60-hour power reserve • Not for sale, alange-soehne.com • •

FRONT — introducing

TAG HEUER

Aquaracer 300 Night Diver

IN DETAIL

The latest addition to TAG Heuer’s fast-growing Aquaracer 300 collection takes a trip back to the eighties with a reinterpretation of the brand’s famous Night Diver. Defined by a full lume dial contrasting with a black DLC case, it’s not hard to see where it gets its name. Pitting itself against the likes of the Omega Seamaster 300m, it’s a serious amount of watch for £2,750 with solid specs besides.

43mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Calibre 5 automatic movement with 38hour power reserve • £2,750, tagheuer.com •

GREUBEL FORSEY

Art Piece Edition Historique

Lavish as they are with high watchmaking touches, Greubel Forsey watches are invariably big, heavy affairs – which is why it’s refreshing to see their latest impeccable Art Piece rendered in lightweight titanium. Beautifully excessive in both finishing and watchmaking, it’s nonetheless a relatively restrained piece for GF – there’s no platinum globe, for example – and a great illustration of where the upper echelon watchmaker is heading.

IN DETAIL

•

44mm titanium case with 30m water resistance • In-house hand-wound movement with 72-hour power reserve • POA, limited to 20 pieces, greubelforsey.com

FRONT — introducing

UNDONE

Dark Knight Retrospective

Batman has spawned a nearly worrying number of timepieces over the years, but while most take the grittier, Nolan-esque approach to the caped crusader, affordable custom watchmaker UNDONE have taken a more retro approach. The Dark Knight Retrospective combines Batmobile-esque looks with a Detect-O-Scope dial, which lights up with lume-coated Riddler question marks when the lights go down. High watchmaking? No. Fun? Most definitely.

IN DETAIL

42mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • MI NH72 calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • $499 (approx. £361), limited to 999 pieces, undone.com •

LAURENT FERRIER

Square Micro-Rotor Retro

An elegant, Art Deco twist on the classic Laurent Ferrier Square, the watchmaker’s latest duo of timepieces is more vintage in style than retro, in either classic silvery white or black and a steel or rose gold case respectively. Backed by a fantastic micro-rotor movement, they’re not exactly groundbreaking, but they’re undeniably lovely – particularly the steel and white version.

IN DETAIL

41mm stainless steel or rose gold case with 30m water resistance • Calibre FBN 229.01 automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve • From CHF 45,000 (approx. £35,750), laurentferrier.ch

•

tior odi

shock and awe

THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained Words by SHANE HAGERTY

as equ us, s

[Shock Resistance Explained ]

I recently made the mistake of telling my kids that my G-Shock would probably survive being run over by the car. “Do it!” they say. I will do it, I promise. I don’t do it. I don’t have the guts. Instead I watch videos of people doing it, gently rolling crushing SUV tyres over their G-Shocks before displaying the unperturbed watch. A G-Shock is arguably the first thing that comes to mind when you think of shock resistance in a watch. Designed in the 1980s to take punishment unlike any previous timepiece, its creator Kikuo Ibe found inspiration in the likes of car tyres and caterpillars – both easily recognised in the modern case and strap. Anyone with a copy of Matt Hranek’s A Man & His Watch will be familiar with that model’s primitive start - a digital face encased in a tough ball, tested by throwing it out of a third-storey bathroom window. These days there’s an entire facility at Casio dedicated to pounding, electrocuting, drowning, dropping and generally torturing G-Shocks to test their resilience. But the idea of shock resistance goes back to the 1930s. Vintage watch collectors will know that

Incabloc shock resistance was boasted of on watches back in the mid-20th century. Instantly recognisable in a movement due to the lyre-shaped spring on the jewel bearings that support the balance wheel, the system absorbs shock from any direction. The innovation was revolutionary and has saved countless watches from breaking - as you’ll know if you’ve ever dropped your late father’s watch and been relieved to find it still ticking. Incabloc remains a leading system in movements, although other watchmakers have developed varieties of its fundamental principal. Seiko has Diashock, Omega uses Nivachoc. And some manufacturers go to extreme lengths to protect their mechanical movements from all scenarios. Ball’s anti-shock systems mean its Engineer Hydrocarbon range of automatic watches are tested with a 1.5 metre hammer strike. The Richard Mille RM 27-02 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal, meanwhile, is designed to withstand the forces of the tennis legend’s serve - which is reassurance if you’re on the fence about spending the €777,000 asking price. With fewer moving parts, quartz-powered watches have been pushed to further and further anti-shock extremes. Victorinox boasts that its INOX can withstand eight tonnes of hydraulic pressure, and released a video of one being driven over by a tank. The model is put through 130 tests, including resisting 12Gs of centrifugal force and (a more likely danger for most watch buyers) being put through a washing machine. So, should I really worry about my G-Shock? “Do it, Dad,” the kids say. “Drive over the watch!” I weigh up the worth of an inexpensive, replaceable but loved watch against the pure happiness of my children. Which matters most? There’s really no contest. “No,” I say. Then Oracle Time’s editor asks me to do it. “Absolutely,” I say. I place the G-Shock face up under the tyre, release the brake and roll it over it. The kids squeal with delight. There’s not so much as a scratch on the watch. “Now do it with the Black Bay Fifty-Eight,” the kids say…

shock and awe

“ Victorinox boasts that its INOX can withstand eight tonnes of hydraulic pressure, and released a video of one being driven over by a tank ”

Incabloc (above) remains a leading system in movements, while Seiko has developed Diashock (left) and Ball’s anti-shock systems (below) in the Engineer Hydrocarbon range are tested with a hammer strike

FRONT — scaling new heights

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

CONQUERING EVEREST AFTER A MOUNTAIN SUMMITING PROTOTYPE IN 2019, VACHERON’S LATEST TAKE ON THE OVERSEAS IS THEIR SPORTIEST YET 43

FRONT — scaling new heights

Vacheron has embraced the adventuring life with the Constantin Overseas Chrono Everest (above), which, as its name suggests is in its element over seas and mountains thanks to the addition of titanium, and plenty of it

We’ve spoken plenty in the past about what exactly sports luxe means, the Genta-laced sub-genre of fine watchmaking that’s been on the up for the past five years or so. In short, it’s the nebulous midway blur between something rugged and practical and an elegant, finely finished watch, generally with the price tag of the latter. It’s precisely because of that price tag that it’s rare to see anyone actually wearing these kinds of pieces with an emphasis on the ‘sport’. Sure, if thieves weren’t as big an issue in Mayfair you might see the occasional jogger with a Nautilus, but for the everyday collector (everyday by Patek standards, mind you) it’s out of the question.

It’s not the lightest watch in the world but compared to other Overseas – particularly the full gold versions – it’s weightless 44

So, what about the Vacheron Overseas? It’s one of the most enduring sports luxe designs not created by Gerald Genta and rightly so. With its signature Maltese cross bezel and classical style, it’s most comfortable on the elegant side of the equation and, like recent Piaget Polos, not something you wear when at risk of damage or death. Unless, that is, you’re Cory Richards. Back in 2019, the adventurer, National Geographic photographer and all-around badass summited Mount Everest. He’d done it twice before – because who hasn’t? – but this time he opted for the North-East Ridge. Any climbers out there know what that means: one of the toughest routes to the precipice, especially when you’re not using oxygen. Incredible achievement? Sure. Insane? Definitely. Along with climbing partner Esteban “Topo” Mena, Richards brought with him another climbing companion: his custom Vacheron Constantin Overseas. The sportier, more extreme take on the formula custom-made to survive everything the world’s highest peak can throw at it. It also made for some pretty cool promos from the top, to the delight and chagrin of anyone looking for a similarly rugged vibe from the world’s oldest (continually operating) watchmaker. As you may have already gathered from the imagery, Vacheron is finally embracing the adventuring life for themselves. Sure, it may have taken them two years but it’s not like anything else has been going on in that time that might run a little counter to the travel narrative. And honestly, it’s been worth the wait. So, what makes this particular Overseas a more practical timepiece? Titanium, and plenty of it. Despite what looks a little like DLC across the bezel and pusher guards, the darker gunmetal colour comes from a difference in finishing. The main body of the case is satin-brushed while the darker, anthracite aspects are bead-blasted. That slight difference makes a big visual impact and, while the contrast is a little less in-your-face in reality, it makes the most of that Maltese cross crown, underpinned by a bright stainless steel bezel ring underneath. It’s not the lightest watch in the world but compared to other Overseas – particularly the full gold versions – it’s weightless. There are actually two versions of the Everest, a chronograph and a dual time. Both offer the same steel blue grained dial and a few flashes of orange – on

FRONT — vacheron everest

THE SPECS Overseas Dual Time Everest • 41mm titanium and steel case with 150m water resistance • 5110 DT/2 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • Limited to 150 pieces, £26,600 • Overseas Chronograph Everest • 41mm titanium and steel case with 150m water resistance

FRONT — vacheron everest

FRONT — scaling new heights

FRONT — vacheron everest

FRONT — scaling new heights

Limited to 150 pieces, both editions of the Everest ooze Vacheron style, as the dual time calibre 5110 DT/2 and chronograph calibre 5200/2 have plenty of Côtes de Genève across the bridges and gold-inlaid engraving

The Everest is a welcome departure from the Overseas norm of a sporty-looking luxury, but inside has all the loveliness you’d expect from a Bond Street heavyweight the 24-hour hands and day/night indicator for the dual time and all three stopwatch hands for the chronograph. Of the two, the dual time’s probably the more useful on an everyday basis but the chronograph does look that bit sportier. I’m not entirely sure which I prefer, but I did find myself wearing the dual time a bit more than the chronograph. Stylistically the Everest is a welcome departure from the Overseas norm of a sporty-looking luxury, but inside has all the Vacheron Constantin, Poincon de Geneve loveliness you’d expect from a Bond Street heavyweight. In fact, the Everest is slightly better done than the less sporty Overseas models. Both the dual time calibre 5110 DT/2 and chronograph calibre 5200/2 have plenty of Côtes de Genève across the bridges and gold-inlaid engraving, which is all very Vacheron. The point of difference is the golden rotor, which has been engraved with the namesake mountain itself. It’s goddam lovely. Both watches are equipped with a grey fabric strap with orange contrast stitching, come with a second chunky grey rubber number and are limited to 150 pieces – which feels like a lot for Vacheron. Still, they’re only available from Vacheron boutiques so whatever keeps collectors visiting. And I’d say this one is well worth a visit.

So, after having a prototype version of the Everest on his wrist for the last couple of years, what does the guy that inspired the new watches think about them? “Wearing an Overseas Everest, I’m reminded of everything from my childhood and everything that brought me to this moment in time...the trials, the seemingly endless learning through trial and error. The failures balanced against the successes. I’m actually emotional when I stop and contemplate what this watch actually says...about my life and what it can mean to others who wear it. To share such an enormous piece of me condensed into something so refined and beautiful is a humbling honour beyond the words I have.” Sure, with its new lightweight case, the Overseas Everest is that bit more practical than your average sports luxe piece, definitely more so than most other models in the collection, but it’s still not something I’d personally want to risk on a cliff face. Then again, if I were insane enough to tackle the hardest route up Everest, I should think worrying about my watch would become a secondary concern. Either way, the Everest is a damn lovely watch, a refreshing new look for a stunning watch and, apparently, close to making a grown man cry. What more could you want?

the contrarian’s rolex

WORDS:

TIMOTHY BARBER

UNPACKING THE

EXPLORER II © Rolex/Jean-Daniel Meyer

AS THE ‘CONTRARIAN'S SPORTS ROLEX’ TURNS 50, WHAT DOES THE LATEST 2021 UPDATE MEAN FOR THE SPELUNKING TOOL WATCH?

the contrarian’s rolex

Of late, you’d have to have to been living in a cave not to notice that things have got, well, a little ‘tasty’ in the market for steel Rolex sports watches. That includes the watch Rolex made for actual cave-dwellers: the sturdy, offbeat, never-quite-fashionable, now upgraded Explorer II. The biggest steel Rolex that isn’t a Sea-Dweller; the only Rolex to offer you two time zones (the GMT Master II, with its rotating 24-hour bezel, gives you three); the only sports Rolex with a white dial variant besides the Daytona; and (still) the only remaining sports Rolex with an embossed steel bezel. Should you want one, one dealer I called up told me the waiting list for the new model is around three years. But in the world of Rolex sports watches, that actually counts as availability, he said: “We’ve closed applications for the others, because we don’t know if we’ll ever fulfil them.” Another dealer I called simply laughed, and then sighed. Last year, he said, you might have had a chance; but not now. That’s because back in April Rolex announced a new version of the Explorer II, Ref 226570 – an event long predicted, since this year marks the watch’s 50th anniversary, and we’re a decade on from its last upgrade. Anecdotally, supply of the previous model, Ref 216570 introduced in 2011, had dried up significantly in the months preceding the announcement, meaning pent up demand was already surging without the now-inevitable launch hysteria. In the weeks before the release, as Rolex trailed the announcement via shadowy images on Instagram, the watch community’s online hype lords whipped themselves into a frenzy of speculation, prophesying that the Explorer II’s famous fixed steel bezel was, like that of the Daytona before it, about to be replaced with ceramic. Inevitably, Del Boy dealers around the globe hoovered up every pre-owned 216570 they could get their hands on, sending prices rocketing, convinced that the soon-to-be-extinct steel bezel style was about to become collectible gold dust. One can imagine an almighty, Nelson Muntz-style guffaw emanating from Rolex’s Plan-les-Ouates HQ on 7 April, the day of the launch: the prophecy did

Bearing a striking resemblance to the old Explorer II, the new Ref 226570 model includes a brighter, longer-lasting blue Chromalight lume, slenderer lugs, and the latest bracelet with the secure Oysterlock clasp and EasyLink micro-adjustment system

It is, in other words, the same watch – just a bit better. And all but unobtainable. If you want to jump the wating lists, expect to pay over £10,000 for a watch listed by its maker at £6,800 not come to pass. The new Explorer II is the spit of the old Explorer II, steel bezel and all, with minimal exterior upgrades that include brighter, longer-lasting Chromalight lume (in blue); more slender lugs; the latest Oyster bracelet with the secure Oysterlock clasp and EasyLink micro-adjustment system. Inside, it has a new-generation movement: it shares the Calibre 3285 found in the current GMT Master II, introduced in 2018. That means 70 hours of power reserve (up from 50 hours); improved reliability and magnetic resistance via Rolex’s innovative Chronergy escapement; and -2/+2 seconds a day accuracy, in line

with the brand’s ‘Superlative Chronometer’ standards. It is, in other words, the same watch – just a bit better. And all but unobtainable. If you want to jump the wating lists, expect to pay over £10,000 for a watch listed by its maker at £6,800. So where exactly in the panoply of Rolex greatness does the Explorer II fall? Launched in 1971, it came 18 years after the original Explorer, with a different and distinctly niche kind of exploration in mind: for cavers, potholers and anyone else spending long hours where night and day become indistinguishable (arctic scientists, perhaps, or those exploring the outer limits of their bank

the contrarian’s rolex

balances in Vegas casinos…), the glowing orange 24 hour hand was designed to give you some grounding in time and space. But really, it’s a travel watch: a rugged, dual-time ticker, blessed with Rolex perfectionism. “If you were going to travel the world and you need a robust companion, or if you’re in low light conditions on a mountainside, it really is the watch for that,” says Adrian Hailwood, of the pre-owned platform WatchCollecting. com. “It’s not advertising itself to be robbed from you like a Pepsi, and the downward slope of the bezel is nice too – it means it slides under your jacket and doesn’t catch.” Whereas Rolex’s other professional tool watches emerged in the 1950s, the original Explorer II, Ref 1655, was notably a child of the 1970s: its black dial was ringed with a bold patchwork of luminescent markings that give it a wonderfully offbeat charm today, but were presumably less than user friendly – it didn’t sell well. It’s known as the ‘Freccione’ (big arrow) to Italian collectors and the ‘Steve McQueen’ elsewhere, even though the actor didn’t wear one – its rugged, period grooviness just has the feel of something he should have worn (though I’d argue it’s as much Les McQueen as it is Steve – if you know, you know). Good 1655 editions can fetch over £30,000 today – if you’re a true vintage nut, you can go potholing through the microdisparities that distinguish (barely) the different versions. In the 1980s, groovy gave way to sensible: along with periodic technical upgrades, the subsequent two Explorer II models, in 1985 and 1989, saw the hour markings replaced with crisp Submariner-style lume pots, while the sporty 1970s-style hour/minute hands changed to traditional Rolex Mercedes hands. The bold orange 24-hour hand, meanwhile, was toned down to a slim red pointer tipped with a white arrow. The period also saw the debut of the white ‘polar’ dial version – something that has become a bit of an Explorer II calling card. The modern Explorer II finally arrived in 2011, as Rolex reacted to the trend for bigger watches. Everything was bulked

Explorer II isn't the most romanticised watch name and instead is known as the ‘Freccione’ to Italian collectors, meaning big arrow, and the ‘Steve McQueen’ elsewhere, even though the actor didn’t wear one, perhaps harking back to the watch’s groovy seventies origin

up: the diameter rose from 40 to 42mm, while the dial features all put on weight, with thicker hands, bigger lume pots, and the return of the full-fat orange 24-hour hand. Burly and somewhat quirky, it may lack the romantic backstory – and hence the street cred – of its professional Rolex brethren, but for some that’s part of its allure. “It’s the contrarian’s sports Rolex,” says Hailwood. “It’s got more functionality than a Submariner, but it’s nowhere near as iconic. It was a bit of a misstep at the start, but that means it really flew under the radar, and gives it a certain charm.”

FRONT — horological survivalists

Edited by : SAM KESSLER

ADVENTURE TIME THE HOROLOGICAL SURVIVALISTS THAT SHOULD BE PART OF EVERY WOULD-BE EXPLORER’S KIT

After a year of being cooped up inside, adventure finally beckons! Months of bingewatching nature docs have readied you for the arctic tundra, the occasional Bear Grylls show for life in the remote wilderness. No cliff face is insurmountable, no peak unattainable. Just, you know. Once you’ve prepared a bit. After all, preparedness is next to godliness and part of that is making sure you have the right equipment. While we’re perhaps not the best source to tell you which rope will best hold your weight on the Matterhorn, we can advise you on what you should bring as your most vital companion: your watch. So, whether you’re after something able to survive a rockfall, an everyday practical tool watch, or something with the prestige of the explorers of old, we have you covered.

FRONT — horological survivalists horological survivalists

T H E B E AT E R S – U N D E R £ 80 0 These are the watches that you expect to keep working no matter how much you knock them around – and you will be knocking them around. Sturdy and resilient yet accessible, these aren’t watches to be handed down, but instead used and abused.

THE DETAIL •

38mm titanium case with 200m water resistance •

BOLDR

Miyota 8217 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve

Venture Wayfarer Black

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Inspired by classic 24-hour subdial watches, designed for use by those who spent more time underground than any sane person should, Boldr’s dark, rocky take on their flagship Venture field watch doesn’t need the sun to tell you what time of day it is. The organic, printed matte dial has something of a coal mine about it, paired with a black canvas strap for a mix of textures in what is otherwise a monochromatic piece. Between it’s Field appropriate 38mm size and its titanium construction, it’s also the kind of watch you won’t notice until you need it – the perfect, well-designed tool watch. And if you do knock it a bit too much never fear; accessible doesn’t even come into it.

$339 (approx. £250), boldrsupply.co

CASIO G-SHOCK MUDMASTER GWG-2000

You can run over one of these with your car and it’ll survive completely scratch free (just ask Shane Haggerty, our Oracle for this issue) so no adventurer’s kit would be complete without one. This particular version looks liable to survive a tank. The first Mudmaster built from forged carbon is a beast. It’s typically shock resistant of course – it can probably survive a jagged cliff face better than the rest of your equipment – but is lighter than ever. It also has everything the professional explorer could need, from a digital compass and radio to a barometer to check the changing weather. It’s mud resistant, water resistant and probably resistance to anything short of Armageddon. And even then it would be a toss-up.

THE DETAIL: 61.2mm forged carbon case with 200m water resistance • Solar powered digital movement with up to 25 months of charge • £699, g-shock.co.uk

FRONT — under £800

LUMINOX

Commando Raider

Oozing more machismo than an Expendables/ Fast & Furious crossover, the Commando Raider is the most tactical timepiece from Luminox, which given their previous track record, is saying a lot. Everything from the militaristic stencil numerals to the intimidating dimensions – the case measures in at 46mm across and chunky to boot – screams that this is a watch that longs to take everything you can throw at it. The Commando Raider comes equipped with both a countdown and a compass bezel, along with a dual time zone hand. All of that is housed in an advanced CARBONOX case, making the watch about as rugged as it looks – which is to say a timekeeping tank.

THE DETAIL: 42.2mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • 4R34 automatic movement with 40hour power reserve • From £400, seikoboutique.co.uk

SEIKO

Prospex Tortoise

THE DETAIL: 46mm CARBONOX case with 200m water resistance • Ronda 515.24H quartz movement with 50-month battery life • £529, luminox.com

“But the Prospex is a diver!” I hear you yell, and nine times out of 10 you’d be right. In this instance however, Seiko has swapped out the usual unidirectional diving scale for a compass, turning the famous shell like proportions of the fan-named ‘Turtle’ into its land clambering cousin, the Tortoise. It still has that famous Prospex crown at four o’clock, but the addition of the compass along with a few terra firma colourways – including a particularly handsome khaki version – and decidedly non-diver straps make the Tortoise a serious explorers watch. Don’t worry though, they still have 200m water resistance. Anything less would be a travesty.

CHRISTOPHER WARD C63 Sealander

I’m sure there are many collectors out there that see the Sealander as a substitute for when you can’t afford a Rolex and while there’s certainly some truth in that, it’s hard to knock as a watch in and of itself. Yes, it doesn’t exactly stray far from the Explorer’s overall design – or the Explorer II in the case of the GMT version – but that’s no bad thing, especially as it means no waiting list for the 2021 versions! Still, even taken on its own merits, the Sealander is a solid timepiece. The white dialled version’s particularly handsome and the Sellita SW200-1 inside is a classic workhorse movement. It’s pared-back, unfussed and a huge amount of watch for the money. Even for Christopher Ward.

THE DETAIL: •

39mm stainless steel case with 150m water resistance •

Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve •

£595, christopherward.com

FRONT —mhorological survivalists

T H E A D V E N T U R E R S - £ 8 0 1 - £ 2 ,5 0 0 Style and substance both, these are the pieces that elevate their utilitarian roots with cool designs and funky twists that will not only weather the storm, but look good doing so. Yes they might pick up a ding or two, but at the end of the day they’ll be wearing their adventures on their – and your – sleeve.

FARER

Field Automatic

Field watches are the perfect beater watches, built to be rugged, readable and ready for action. They do unfortunately have a tendency to be a little uninspiring. Enter Farer, who in a fashion that’s become typical of the British brand, has interpreted the humble field watch in their own unique style. The Field Automatic – powered by a solid Sellita SW221-1 movement – comes in three variations: the green, militaristic Exmoor, the loch blue Lomond and the Pembroke, in nautical blue and white. Add in unusual flashes of colour and different dial layouts and you have, finally, a field watch that doesn’t look straight out of army surplus.

THE DETAIL: 38.5mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Sellita SW221-1 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £875, farer.com

HAMILTON

Khaki Field Titanium Automatic Far Cry 6

After spending the last 50 years or so getting more screen time than James Hong, Hamilton is making their way to the small, digital screen via the latest instalment in Ubisoft’s giant of an FPS franchise, Far Cry. This wouldn’t be the first time a product’s been created specifically for a game; check out some of the insane cars in racing games. But it is as far as I know the first watch. That said, you might not know it’s a tie-in to look at it. The limited edition takes the tried and tested Khaki formula and adds a couple of Far Cry touches like the split six form of the game’s title screen on a black vinyl dial and the year the game is set - 1983. Otherwise, it’s the field watch we all know and love, just lighter and a touch cooler. Oh, and in case you were worried, it’s a freebie in the game. No paid DLC here.

THE DETAIL: •

42mm titanium case with 100m water resistance •

H-10 automatic movement with 80hour power reserve •

£1,000, Limited to 1983 pieces, hamiltonwatch.com

FRONT — under £2,500

RALF TECH

Académie Veteran

If you know of Ralf Tech it’ll be through their serious, spec ops style dive watches so the Académie might come as a bit of a surprise. Yet this utilitarian undercurrent of a collection holds some of the brands coolest pieces, including the decidedly militaristic Veteran. With a silhouette inspired by the tool watches of the 1950s and 60s, the blueprint for the watch comes from Ralf Tech designer Frank Huyghe’s grandfather’s timepiece. Those vintage roots are pushed back even earlier with the distinctive Dirty Dozen twang to the dial, including the broad arrow of the Ministry of Defence. Also, unlike some of the brand’s headlining watches, it has an automatic movement. Like I said, it’s not what we’ve come to expect from Ralf Tech, but I want to see more of it.

THE 220 WATCH COMPANY William Walker

While it’s not actually a diving watch, the William Walker from British watch brand, The 220 Watch Company, takes its inspiration from the brass and copper diving helmets of the early 1900s. The entire case is made from copper, which means that, similar to bronze, it’s designed to age over time, the kind of timepiece that’ll show off your adventures in every nick and dent. In fact, it’s the copper in bronze that goes green, so expect some intriguing changes over time from this one. It comes on a canvas NATO strap for that vintage military look, but otherwise the blue dial and clean indexes speak for themselves, leaving it in the sweet spot between utilitarian tool piece and stripped back slice of design-led minimalism. THE DETAIL: 41mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • RTA003 automatic movement with 44-hour power reserve • €1,700 (approx. £1,450), limited to 100 pieces, ralftech.com

THE DETAIL: 40mm copper case with 100m water resistance • STP calibre 1-11 automatic movement with 44hour power reserve • £995, 220watch.com

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VON DOREN

URÆD Green Sea, English weekdays

Inspired by the seafaring voyage of Norwegian innovator and nautical pioneer Ole Brude, the URÆD is designed to carry you across the Atlantic as surely and safely as its namesake lifeboat. Part tool watch, part ode to the Art Nouveau style of the early 1900s, it has everything a budding wayfarer could need. That includes a solid automatic Swiss movement, a day date available in English (as here) or Norwegian and 100m water resistance to survive the rigours of life at sea. It also comes in a trio of handsome dials, of which the most attractive is most definitely the sea green. For Norway’s first serious watch brand, Von Doren certainly know how to make a splash.

THE DETAIL: •

40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance •

STP 4-13 automatic movement with 44hour power reserve •

€1,379, vondoren.com

FRONT —mhorological survivalists

T H E G E N T L E M A N E X P L O R E R S – O V E R £ 2 ,5 0 0 Sure, these timepieces could survive a trek to the poles or a climb up Everest, but they’re not the pieces you’ll want to bash about without a care in the world. They are however some of the best-looking adventuring watches out there, drawing inspiration from the harshest environments with a complication or two thrown in for good measure.

THE DETAIL: 43mm titanium case with 100m water resistance • Calibre 11 ½’’’ BE-36AE automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £4,595, bremont.com

BREMONT MB Savanna

Anything built to survive the shock of 1) an ejector seat and 2) an emergency landing on uncertain terrain will probably serve you well, no matter what you put it through. That’s been the raison d’etre of Bremont’s flagship Martin Baker line since its inception and in the new Savanna version adds desert colouring to the mix. It’s similar in look to IWC’s Mojave pieces but far more minimal and shock resistant, making it a far more appropriate beater watch. The titanium case is wonderfully lightweight and the movement is surrounded by an anti-magnetic Faraday cage. Funnily enough, despite having arid inspirations, it has everything a polar explorer could want.

FRONT — over £2,500

MONTBLANC

Geosphere UltraBlack Limited Edition

While this is indeed inspired by the lofty peaks and the men who risk life and limb to clamber up them, Montblanc’s dual hemisphere worldtimer is more for the gentleman adventurer than your typical adrenaline junkie hanging off the Dawn Wall. Between the compass bezel and twin globes, it harks back to the good old days before Google Maps. This version of Montblanc’s flagship is the sleekest yet in full black, but with a seriously cool distressed stainless steel case for more of an antique, in-the-wars kind of feel. It’s fittingly solid too, as is the movement inside, typical of Montblanc’s previously-Minerva manufacture. The Geosphere’s high end for a tool watch of course, but it’s worth it.

THE DETAIL: •

42mm distressed steel case with 100m water resistance •

MB 29.25 calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve •

£5,600, limited to 858 pieces, montblanc.com

BALL

Engineer M Pioneer

Back in the early days of the American Railroad, Ball were responsible for the accurate timekeeping of the then-pioneering system. Now 130 years on and the Engineer M Pioneer is the successor to that original example of chronometric excellence, combined with the practicalities needed to keep it ticking wherever it goes. Despite its deceptively elegant appearance, the Engineer M Pioneer has incredible resistance to both shock and magnetism (2,500 gauss to be precise) and a rainbow of H3 gas tubes that will light the dial up on the darkest of nights. It’s a whole lot of advanced watchmaking in a practical, utilitarian design – everything an explorer could need. THE DETAIL: 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • BALL caliber RRM7309-CS automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • £2,950, limited to 1,000 pieces, shop.ballwatch.ch

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FRONT — horological survivalists

ROLEX

Explorer 36mm

The original adventure watch, the timepiece that first summited Everest and the flagship piece of Rolex’s 2021 line-up, the Explorer is one for the purists. Originally created in 1953, the latest version goes back to that vintage sizing with a diminutive 36mm case. Sure, bi-colour isn’t super practical (and was a little divisive when this was released) but it’s hard not to give it points for style. While the outside is a carbon copy of the first Explorer, the 3230 movement inside is the latest generation Rolex automatic and has a specs sheet to match the prestige. Otherwise, this is the most understated watch in the brand’s catalogue – and other than the Air King, the most underrated. Just don’t expect that to negate a wait list. It is still a sports Rolex.

THE DETAIL: •

36mm Rolesor case with 100m water resistance •

3230 automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve •

£8.700, rolex.com

ZENITH

Chronomaster Revival Safari

Zenith have continued their trend of modernising their revived archival pieces – rerevived maybe? – and of the various funky iterations of the 1969 original, this is possibly the most interesting. The microblasted titanium case is far darker than you might expect (take a look at the Overseas on the cover for a similar effect) and the mix of the metallurgic grey and safari green makes for a seriously cool statement piece. It’s equipped with the classic El Primero column-wheel chronograph of course and makes for a charming – if pricey – adventure-themed chronograph. It’s also pleasingly svelte at 37mm, true to its archival roots.

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THE DETAIL: 37mm titanium case with 50m water resistance • El Primero automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve • £7,500, zenith-watches.com •

The mix of the metallurgic grey and safari green makes for a cool statement piece 64

roll with it

Edited by SAM KESSLER

TIME TRAVEL THE FINEST WATCHES NEED THE FINEST STORAGE, SO WE’VE ROLLED FIVE OF THE BEST INTO ONE HANDY COMPENDIUM

IF THE CALL OF ADVENTURE beckons, you’ll want a trusty timepiece or two in order to help you answer it. That means a way of getting them from A to B with as little fuss (and as much style) as possible. That’s just as true if you’re just going on a business trip which, let’s be honest, feels as big an adventure as a mountain hike, these days. These watch rolls, all made from exceptional leathers by some of the finest craftsmen around, will not only keep your capsule collections safe but are the kind of pieces you’d be more than happy to show off on your hotel room dresser.

SMYTHSON MARA WATCH AND JEWELLERY ROLL British craftsmanship tends to go hand-in-hand with the understated and generally Smythson would fall into that camp with their signature grained leather in restrained colours. Well, not here. The Mara watch roll is about as visually luxurious as these things can possibly get with a glossy, crocodile printed finish of incredible depth

and colour – in this case a magnificent mushroom. The roll itself has room for a pair of watches as well as a compartment for jewellery, extra straps, cufflinks, and whatever else you need to complete your outfit, making it one of the more versatile watch rolls out there. Rigid dividers ensure it also offers genuine protection to your timepieces, though it is the kind of leather you’ll want to take care of. £410, smythson.com

roll with it

ETTINGER LIFESTYLE DOUBLE WATCH ROLL Honestly, you only ever need two watches – a casual, everyday piece and a dressier number for the evening. This number from British leather specialist Ettinger houses whatever that pair may be in style – and we do mean whatever. Where most watch rolls limit the size of the watches inside, the Lifestyle includes two different fasteners so that you can either keep your smaller pieces secure or let it out for a larger, chunkier watch. It goes without saying that the leather used is immaculate. This is Ettinger, after all. But it also comes in seven distinctive colours, including a racing green and, our personal favourite, the bright red. It might be a bit eye-catching for some, but it works so well with the soft, glossy leather it’s hard not to love. £290, ettinger.co.uk

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It goes without saying that the leather used is immaculate. This is Ettinger, after all

FARER RACING GREEN WATCH ROLL

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Finished with a contrasting goatskin lining, it’s the perfect travel companion for a trio of British watches

British flair and exceptional use of colour have come to define British watch brand Farer – just check out our review of their latest Monopusher – so it’s no surprise that when they came to create a sumptuous watch roll, they’d opt for classic British racing green. The roll itself is made by O’Rourke Coachtrimmers over in West Sussex, who are best known for the restoration of beautiful classic car interiors. Farer’s three-watch roll uses that same leather, and finished to the exact same standards, meaning ultra-precise stitching and a lovely, tactile grain. Finished with a contrasting goatskin lining, it’s the perfect travel companion for a trio of British watches. £230, farer.com

roll with it

BENNET WINCH WATCH ROLL While the exterior of this Londonmade watch roll might look like soft, buttery leather – and it is – Bennet Winch’s signature watch roll is far more protective than it appears. Secured between the top layer of leather and the inner lining of Alcantara suede are panels of Kevlar, flexible but hardwearing enough to stop a bullet. When closed it creates a solid protective shell that’ll help even the most delicate timepieces survive the rigours of travel. Open, it fully folds out to become a display surface. Of course, this particular roll isn’t just about protection. The octagonal shape not only helps it stand on your dresser without running away, but makes the entire thing a perfect fit for whichever Royal Oak you just can’t travel without. £595, bennettwinch.com

VISCONTI MILANO WEEK ORGANISER WATCH ROLL

“

The roll opens up to display seven slots embossed to mark the day of the week

Have a watch for every day of the week? Then this is the one for you. Rather than sticking to home shores, it would be impossible to discuss fine leather without mentioning Italy and, specifically, Visconti Milano. While we best know the brand for their custom watch straps, it would be remiss for them not to leverage that artisanal excellence to create a few accessories too. Soft rather than a solid protective shell, the roll opens up to display seven slots embossed to mark the day of the week. It’s a novel approach and one that serious collectors – the kind that actually wear their collection – can appreciate. The only downside is that it’s not the most secure of watch rolls, but between the downright beautiful leather and ability to hold a week’s worth of watches, it’s a compromise we’re happy to sign up for. € 440, viscontimilano.com

Style 74 /

90 /

Bolster your body’s

makes 7L’s parka the

defence against the

elite style recruit of

elements with these

the season

combative cures

76 /

100 /

Strap on a pair of sturdy clodhoppers for a hit of

EDITED BY

SHANE C. KURUP

Edmund Hillary swagger \

92 /

102 /

Daniel Craig’s most

This season’s best

An ex-marine sniper

iconic Bond looks and how

outdoor-worthy apparel

reveals the clothes

to get them

that will see you

that will keep

through anything

you alive

Intrepid threads >—> The spirit of adventure has long informed the world of menswear and it’s a trend that’s easy to comprehend. Who wouldn’t want a wardrobe that exudes the air of the intrepid explorer, rugged mountaineer, flyboy fighter pilot or rakish rally driver? For Oracle’s Adventure issue, we’ve curated everything you need to get gallant with your wardrobe and grooming regime.

Oracle Style — Oct.21

British workmanship

STYLE — wardrobe champion

WATERTIGHT WARDROBE

Dan Lewis, Area Manager at Jeeves of Belgravia, dry cleaner to HRH Prince Charles, shares his wisdom on keeping weather-proof outerwear in fine form

1— Cut back the weekly wash Avoid machine-washing waterproof kit too often as it will gradually reduce the effectiveness of the repellent coating 2— / Put down the detergent Never wash waterproof gear with standard detergent or fabric softeners. They contain chemicals that can clog the pores of the waterproof membrane 3— / Remember to Reproof If you notice that water droplets are no longer beading and the garment is becoming saturated, reproof it with a professional waterrepellent spray

Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

WORTHY RECRUIT

7L’s Breach parka might have military kudos in spades, but its practical assets and British workmanship make it the elite style recruit of the season >—> For anyone that laments the demise of the British manufacturing industry, Cheshire-based brand 7L is an auxiliary force of renewal: it designs and produces its pieces entirely in Blighty, from drawing board to trimming table. Its new Breach parka, for instance – which takes its design cues from British Army military jackets – has been cut and crafted from weatherproof

Millerain cloth at Cookson & Clegg – a Blackburn firm that’s been in the premium rag trade since 1860 and also supplied the UK forces. “The firm still employs the same skills essential to the production of military grade clothing and applies them to the manufacturing of modern outerwear, jeans and chinos for many of the country’s leading clothing brands”, explains Chris

Vandrill, designer at 7L. This commitment to supporting homegrown production talent doesn’t stop at surface level, either. The jacket is lined with deadstock parachute fabric woven at William Reed – a storied Mancunian miller of traditional sailing and parachute cloths. “The lightweight nylon parachute fabric gives the jacket a luxurious finish,

but also proffers superb windproofing”, adds Vandrill, explaining that the lining has practical worth, beyond its Armed Forces authenticity. Add to that a glut of functional details designed to keep the fickle British elements at bay, from a waterrepellent finish, Velcro cuff tabs, integrated handwarmers, and a two-way Swiss RiRi zip forged with the precision of La Chaux-de-Fonds ticker and you’ve got the ultimate outdoor wingman that brings an entirely different meaning to the slogan ‘high and dry’ – in the style stakes, at least. 7L Breach parka, £550, sevenlayer.com

STYLE — style manifesto

Arket

>—> London-based label ARKET aims to be a modern marketplace for urbanites, where you can pick up everything from a Norwegian cheese knife to artsy ceramics, but its apparel range is it’s strongest offering. For AW21, it explores the spirit of the great outdoors, with a rugged yet erudite line of mohair and cashmere knits and functional, weatherresistant outerwear that delivers seamlessly on style and practicality. As an added bonus, everything is produced sustainably via a traceability model, with garments made from Circulose – a planet-first fibre formed from recycled denim and responsibly sourced wool – all of which help preserve the natural beauty of the landscape that inspired it. arket.com

Norwegian Rain

>—> Anyone who has set foot in Scandinavia will know that its inhabitants endure even more inclement meteorological spells than we Brits. Combining the experience of fickle Nordic weather fronts with premium Japanese materials, Norwegian Rain crafts weatherproof coveralls that are a considerable step above your standard beige mac. This season’s extension of it’s Mottainai concept – the art of not being wasteful – chimes with the very current conversation around our impact on the planet, but also offers its clientele the ability to customise their favourite pieces to minimise wasted material and create a piece that fits to a tee. So, it’s a win-win for the your style individuality and Mother Nature too. If only she would get it to stop raining. norwegianrain.com

Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

Eye/LOEWE/Nature

>—> Anyone who said that outdoorsy gear needed to be purely functional, not fashionable, has obviously never met LOEWE’s creative director, Jonathan Anderson. His Eye/LOEWE/ Nature line takes the template of rough and tumble adventure wear and turns it 360, giving dressing for outdoor pursuits a distinctly bold, contemporary flavour. For AW21, it’s patchwork cords, upcycled tweed jackets and colour-block backpacks are a must for the urban man who has a penchant for exploration, but is more at home sipping a flat white on a heated pavement than scaling Ben Nevis. Sound like anyone familiar? loewe.com

Peak performance Blending high style with high function, this season’s best outdoor-worthy apparel will see you through anything, from an intrepid expedition across the frozen tundra, to negotiating the frostriddled asphalt when the next Beast from the East hits town

STYLE — style manifesto

Shackleton

>—> As the name suggests, British label Shackleton is made for men who aren’t reticent about heading out into the wilderness. Performance down jackets, fine merino base layers and rugged yet refined cashmere accessories draw their inspiration from the vintage-inspired kit of the arctic explorers of yesteryear, but are given a 21st-century overhaul. This season’s hero Hercules jacket is tailored, featherweight and packable, but with a 750-fill 90/10-ratio goose down wadding, offers insulation that punches well above its weight. Additionally, Shackleton’s new 3-in-1 Adaptive Layering System allows you to attach and separate coordinating lighter down garments with heavier outerwear to tackle temperatures ranging from +10°C to -30°C for year-round adaptability. The brand is so confident of its cold-weather kit, that you can join the team on their seasonal arctic expeditions to Norway and Iceland devised by ex-Marine commando and polar explorer Louis Rudd, to truly test its mettle – alongside your own, of course. shackleton.com

Nobis

>—> With winters that see the mercury plummet to -40c and below, our Maple Leaf cousins across The Pond know a thing or two about dressing for the cold. Nobis’s highly engineered bombers, parkas and performance rainwear are all made in Ontario, using ethically-sound materials and production methods, including the exclusive use of certified Canadian white duck down. Head designer Michael Kerr’s rich experience garnered from spells at Nike, Canada Goose and The North Face is evident in the brand’s contemporary camo prints, colour-block palettes and clever collaborations with leading athletes. Founder, Robin Yates – the quintessential Canadian outdoorsman – has a singular approach for road-testing the brand’s products, lying for hours on frozen lakes to ensure they deliver on substance as well as style. nobis.com

Connolly

>—> Having started out in the trade in 1878 as a saddle maker and later, car-interior upholsterer, it’s fair to say that London-based label Connolly has a deep-seated understanding of what it takes to turn out premium leather goods and a road-worthy spirit in spades. This butter-soft Spanish-leather bag in racing green is typical of the brand’s acute attention to detail in the field of fine leather craft, sporting a handy concealed passport pocket, a laptop compartment and hardy palladium hardware. It’s a winning tribute to the golden age of British motorsport that will see you through many a road trip to come. £1,300, connollyengland.com

STYLE — maverick threads

FLY BOY Styling by JESSICA PUNTER

Photography by FRASER VINCENT

Words by SHANE C. KURUP

From rugged bombers to sharp military separates, the uniform that comes with a life on the wing has long had enduring appeal. For Oracle’s adventure issue, we take the fliest fashion and timepieces from the stratosphere to the street.

STYLE — maverick threads

Schott NYC B-3 LC squad bomber jacket £748, schott-store.com Sunspel classic T-shirt £75, sunspel.com Rag & Bone slim fit organic jeans £195, mrporter.com Crockett & Jones Aldershot boots £500, crockettandjones.com Army dog tag chain £9, armydogtags.co.uk Oris ProPilot TLP Limited Edition Watch £1,850, oris.ch (Passyunk Pale Beer £5.80)

STYLE — maverick threads

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic Watch £3,600, bellross.com

STYLE — maverick threads

Gant Artic bomber jacket £, gant.co.uk Snow Peak jumpsuit £690, snowpeak.co.uk Sunspel classic T-shirt £75, sunspel.com Dr Martens 1460 mono smooth leather boots £149, drmartens.com Pantherella Sackville cotton socks £13, pantherella.com

Harley-Davidson Softail Heritage Classic 114 from £19,995, harley-davidson.com

Army Dog Tags chain £9, armydogtags.co.uk

STYLE — maverick ticker

Longines Spirit Titanium 40mm Automatic Watch £2,170, longines.com

STYLE — maverick threads

Polo Ralph Lauren palm-print shirt £179, matchesfashion.com Hamilton + Hare relax T-shirt £50, hamiltonandhare.com Frame clean straight jean £305, harrods.com Miansai sterling silver chain, £155, mrporter.com A.P.C. silver tone ID bracelet, £100, mrporter.com Kirk Originals The S.A.D Aviator sunglasses £225, kirkoriginals.com Redwing classic chelsea boots £289, redwingshoes.com

STYLE — maverick ticker

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Rescue Watch £6,700, zenith-watches.com

STYLE — maverick threads

Schott NYC LC vintage flight jacket £568, schott-store.com Mr P. cotton chambray shirt £135, mrporter.com Sunspel classic T-shirt £75, Sunspel.com Mr P. slim fit selvedge jeans £215, mrporter.com Miansai sterling silver chain £155, mrporter.com Crockett & Jones Aldershot boots £500, crockettandjones.com

Harley-Davidson Softail Heritage Classic 114 from £19,995, harley-davidson.com

STYLE — maverick ticker

Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Auto Chrono Watch £1,890, hamiltonwatch.com

Styling by Jessica Punter, Photography by Fraser Vincent , Grooming by Tim Pateman at The Lion & The Fox, thelionandthefox.com, Model: Russell White at Milk Management, Shot on location at Passyunk Avenue, 80 Cleveland St, London W1T 6NE, passyunkavenue.com. Thanks to Harley-Davidson UKI. To test ride the Harley-Davidson Softail Heritage Classic 114 please visit testrides.harley-davidson.com

STYLE — maverick threads

Gant relaxed-fit crest shirt £125, gant.co.uk

Frame brown wide leg trousers £265, harrods.com

Filson tan leather trimmed belt £45, mrporter.com

Redwing classic chelsea boots £289, redwingshoes.com

STYLE — grooming cabinet

1-One Tube Wonder

>—> If you’re not a K-pop teen, spending the entire morning in front of the bathroom mirror probably isn’t an option. Luckily, Lab Series aims to take the faff out of the equation with its All In One Defence Lotion. It’s loaded with botanical goodness extracted from plants known for their reliance to harsh weather and combined with an advanced moisturising SPF35 formula, it acts as solid sentinel against environmental aggressors, including UVA and UBA rays, blue light and air pollution. The best part? If the name wasn’t already a clue, it will transform your grooming regime into a slap-on-and-go affair. £31, labseries.co.uk

2-Soft Touch

>—> Unless you’re one of the rare human beings with prehensile feet, it’s your hands that bear the brunt of everyday life. If your digits are starting to feel more callusy than a coral reef, it’s time to slather on the salve. Jack Black’s Intense Therapy Hand Cream is loaded with moisturerich macadamia nut oil and vitamins A and E to restore your hands to peachy perfection. It’s been testdriven by carpenters, golfers and chefs, so you know it’s guaranteed to be the hardestworking handyman in your wash bag. £16, getjackblack.uk

5- Lip Service

COLD COMBAT

>—> If you’re planning to embark on an outdoor expedition or hit the slopes this winter, your trusty chapstick isn’t going to cut it after a day spent facing Mother Nature’s wrath head on. Kiehl’s Buttermask for Lips has a double-pronged formulation to combat exposure to the elements in the form of coconut oil and wild mango butter that help reinforce your lip’s natural moisture barrier. Apply it before you catch 40 winks and wake up with irresistibly smooth smackers. £19.75, kiehls.co.uk

Avoid over-cleansing with hot water and soap in winter to retain the skin’s protective oil barrier - Mazin Al-Khafaji, Founder of Dermatology M

Fair weathered Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

3-Eastern Promise

A life of outdoor pursuits has its virtues, but exposure to UV rays, environmental pollution and moisture-sapping winds can leave you looking craggier than a Dartmoor tor. Bolster your body’s defence against the elements with these combative cures

>—> No matter how well equipped you are, or carefully you choose your footholds, time spent in the great outdoors comes with its hazards. If you have taken a tumble, then Dermatology M’s Red Flower Trauma Oil will cure what ails you. Blended using traditional Chinese medicinal know-how, it contains a glut of anti-inflammatories and antioxidants including red Safflower – or hong hua – frankincense, myrrh and angelica root to ease trauma and tension in strained tissues and muscles. Rub in this remedial concoction and you’ll be fit as a fiddle in no time. £38, dermatology-m.com

4-Ablution Solution

>—> The inhabitants of the antipodes are the envy of the world over for their active, alfresco lifestyles, so it stands to reason that Patricks – Australia’s premier grooming brand – knows how to clean up after a day spent gadding about in the wilderness. It’s FW1 facewash is formulated with anti-oxidant green tea to heal sun-damaged skin, while white tea and pomegranate extracts protect skin cells from premature aging and iron out those UV-induced lines. Just think of it as a pint-sized multi-tasking miracle from Down Under. £58, patricksproducts.co.uk

STYLE — survival chic

Interview by

Dominic Bliss

Gearing up Ex-Marine sniper, adventurer and all-round man of brawn Aldo Kane requires kit that has to meet an essential brief – to ensure his survival. He talks to Oracle Time about the apparel and equipment he depends on to see him through some of the harshest environments on earth

STYLE — survival chic

ALDO KANE owns three kilts and, like every good Scotsman, he never wears underpants beneath them. “There’s no excuse for underwear when you’re wearing a kilt. 100%,” he confirms. For this adventurer and documentary-maker, tartan is for formal occasions. Aldo wore a handmade kilt with a tweed jacket for his wedding two years ago. But his profession rarely calls for formal wear. Not so much jacket and tie, as hiking boots, goose down jackets, wetsuits, helmets and climbing harnesses. While many trades require a specialist uniform, Aldo’s work is so multi-faceted, with so many different specialisms and techniques, that his uniforms number in the dozens. During his career, he has served in Iraq as a Royal Marines sniper, abseiled into the crater of an active volcano, dived deep in the ocean, fended off a charging rhino, avoided drug cartel hit-men, and rowed across the Atlantic from Portugal to Venezuela. Since he left the Royal Marines in 2003, he has worked as a safety adviser, logistics expert, and occasionally presenter, on ten or so different TV documentaries. The titles reveal the level of danger he regularly faces: Steve Backshall’s Extreme Mountain Challenge, Expedition Volcano, Volcano on Fire, Ed Stafford: First Man Out, Arctic: Frozen Frontier, Mexico: Maya Underworlds. Most recently he returned from the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard, where he was filming a National Geographic documentary. Here, at one point, he found himself diving beneath the ice in seawater temperatures of minus 1.5 degrees Celsius. “That’s as cold as you can physically dive in,” he explains. The clothing and equipment required for that particular foray was more

specialised than ever. With scuba or rebreather equipment on his back, he wore a Fourth Element dry-suit and diving gloves, on top of Canada Goose woolen undergarments. Other equipment included a diving computer, which warns him of his decompression debts and remaining oxygen, plus a Bremont S501 diving watch. When he’s not beneath the waves, he prefers a Bremont MBIII watch. Given the range of hostile environments Aldo operates in, his wardrobe at home consists of a jumble of hard-core expedition equipment. “Bombproof” is how he describes much of it. “Before an expedition, I ask myself: ‘Is it going to be freezing cold; sandy and warm; wet and dark inside a cave?’,” he says. “That allows me to work out my expedition basics.” For climbing trips there are ropes and harnesses; for sleeping in the jungle there’s a Hennessy hammock; the tents and sleeping bags are Mountain Hardware; the expedition rucksacks are Osprey. For eating and drinking in the wild, he

“I can wear my wool boxer shorts and under-layers for up to ten days and they never stink” finds certain items indispensable. He always carries a Yeti cup, an MSR coffee filter, and what he calls a “racing spoon”. “That’s Royal Marines slang for a spoon with a long handle that you can wolf down your food with. It means you can get into the bottom of your boil-in-thebag without getting your hands covered in spaghetti bolognese.” Aldo and his fellow documentarymakers wouldn’t last long without clean drinking water. The solution is an MSR Guardian water purifier. “Filming in Surinam with Steve Backshall, we used it for six weeks, pumping river water

through it. It’s expensive, but one of the best I’ve ever used. It’s effective against bacteria, particulates and some viruses. Having fresh water is an imperative.” Hardwearing clothing is vital, too. For boots and climbing shoes, Aldo normally sports an Italian brand called La Sportiva. In the jungle he needs footwear that’s extra waterproof and opts for jungle boots from British brand Altberg. In the coldest environments (“In Siberia it can drop to minus 55 Celsius”) he wears triple-insulated boots. “However cold it gets, I never wear two pairs of socks,” he adds. “It doesn’t make your feet warmer. Much better to get a good fitting pair of boots with one sock which allows blood to circulate.” Extreme cold also requires an extreme jacket in the form of a Canada Goose Snow Mantra. For trousers he wears Fjallraven. In warm weather he’ll wear Vollebak Planet Earth shirts, in colder weather he needs merino wool Canada Goose base layers. “I can wear my wool boxer shorts and under-layers for up to ten days and they never stink,” he says reassuringly. If the world is divided into those who live like lambs and those who live like lions, then Aldo falls firmly into the latter category. Claws, teeth, mane... the lot. His life story – much of which, incidentally, he recounts in his new book Lessons From The Edge – reads like an old-fashioned Boys’ Own adventure. Born in 1977 in the north Ayrshire town of Kilwinning to paramedic parents, he grew up alongside four other siblings, including his twin brother Ross. At the tender age of 16 he joined the Royal Marines. Thrown in at the deep end, he recalls his arrival at the Commando training centre in Lympstone, in Devon. “It was the first time I’d left home to do anything, and I remember getting off at the train station, thinking ‘What the hell have I done?’ The drill commander, with his stick, would just whack you in the balls.” By 19 years old, he had trained as a sniper, serving first in Northern Ireland in the mid-1990s with 40 Commando, then in Iraq in 2003 with 42 Commando. Pressed on what life was like seen through the sights of a high-velocity

STYLE — survival chic

Aldo wears: Bremont Supermarine S301 Nato Strap, £2,995. Available at bremont.com

STYLE — survival chic

LIGHTEN THE LOAD

Hardwearing clothing is vital to Aldo. He wears La Sportiva boots for climbing, Altberg boots for the jungle and triple insulated boots in the coldest environments. Whatever the weather though, he always brings his trusty Bremont S300 with him

On-the-road veteran Aldo Kane shares his wisdom for packing light when on the wing 1— The magic number Pack in the rule of threes. Three boxer shorts, three pairs of socks, three T-shirts. That way you can wear one, wash one, and have one spare 2— Roll up, roll up Roll up your clothes, don’t fold them, then stuff them tightly in your bag, it’s a huge space-saver 3— Dress up to fly To really travel light, take just one jacket and wear it on the plane. A lightweight Gore-Tex jacket will keep you warm and protect you from downpours

STYLE — survival chic

rifle, he brushes over the thorny question of shooting enemy combatants. “Going to war, that’s pretty much what’s on the cards but not something that anyone wants to do,”. Fear was a constant companion. “I remember not being able to sleep the night before I flew into battle,” he once wrote. “My mind raced, I could barely hold my hands straight and my stomach was in knots, but as anyone who has been to the front line will tell you, this is the excitement kicking in. What really makes you perform under extreme stress is how that excitement is used.” Eventually Aldo faced the tricky transition back to civilian life. Floundering between several dissatisfying jobs, and constantly broke, it was a spell selling gas and electricity door to door that was the final straw. He remembers a customer slamming the front door in his face for the umpteenth time, when suddenly he lost the plot. Throwing his clipboard to the floor in disgust, he stripped off his uniform in the unimpressed customer’s driveway, and stormed off in a huff, wearing just his underwear. Some uniforms don’t suit this man, it seems. It was as a climbing rope specialist that Aldo made his first foray into documentaries. In the early 2010s, he abseiled down into the crater of an active volcano in the Congo called Mount Nyiragongo. “I got all the way down to within 100 metres of the biggest lava lake on Earth,” he remembers. “The last 80 metres was one of the sketchiest abseils I’d ever done.” Despite having gas monitors, the levels of carbon dioxide near the crater floor were off the scale, and he worried he’d pass out with no chance of climbing back up. “I started telling myself all the things that could go wrong. You don’t need rescuing from there because there is no option for rescue.” Over the years, there have been many other brushes with death. The three times he and his team capsized while rowing across the Atlantic, for example. Or the rock fall that narrowly missed crushing him while climbing in Oman. Or the car crash in Mexico where a mass of steel slid off the roof of the vehicle behind, slamming through his rear

“I do one of the most masculine, alpha-male jobs on the planet, but I don’t shout and bang a drum about it” windscreen, just inches from his head. A year ago, this adventurer became a father for the first time. Typically, he was away on one of his expeditions when his wife Anna gave birth back home in the UK. Committed to filming in the waters off the Dominican Republic, he had to witness his son Atlas’s arrival into the world via a Whatsapp video call from his ship. “That morning I’d been diving with humpback whales.” Aldo, Anna and Atlas now live in Bristol. It’s a place where all that specialist clothing tends to be rather redundant. “I don’t need to come back

home and hang around in expedition kit,” he says, realising how ridiculous that would look. “I do one of the most masculine, alpha-male jobs on the planet, but I don’t shout and bang a drum about it.” So what does this new dad wear when he’s off duty? “I’m a jeans, Vans trainers and T-shirt kind of guy,” he says, happy to describe his look as “standard Dad clothing”. And, on the rare occasions he’s required to dress up, one of the three kilts might come out of the wardrobe. But no underpants, naturally.

STYLE — kit bag

Après mode

Your last play on fresh powder is probably a distant memory by now, so the time is ripe to get reacquainted with some long-awaited piste-side action. Here’s the kit to pack to get you through those post-slalom rounds in fine fashion Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

1/ Burlington Country Fair Isle socks £15, burlington.de 2/ E. Tautz Fair-Isle Wool Jumper £495, matchesfashion.com 3/ Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H £2,635, montblanc.com 4/ Simini African Nut Simini Skis £960, bombinate.com 5/ Mackage Edward 2 in 1 down parka £1,250, mackage.com 6/ Vallon brown Glacier sunglasses £95, vallon.store 7/ New Balance + Snow Peak Tokyo Design Studio boots £250, mrporter.com 8/ Mr Marvis The Lakes Flannel Trousers £119, mrmarvis.co.uk 9/ Victorinox Touring “17 backpack £250, victorinox.com 10/ John Lewis ANYDAY Borg vest £45, johnlewis.com

STYLE — best in class

Firm footing Hiking boots have officially left high-altitude trials for the high-fashion arena. Strap on a pair of these sturdy clodhoppers for a hit of Edmund Hillary swagger without the hard ascent Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

Edward Green Cranleigh shearling-lined boots £1,450 edwardgreen.com

GANT, St Grip lace-up boots £170, gant.co.uk

Crockett & Jones Ross Chocolate Hurricane Hide boots £500 crockettandjones.com

Acne Studios flatform hiking boots £650, matchesfashion.com

100

STYLE — best in class

Bally Hike White Boot £610, bally.co.uk

Moncler Peak pebble-grain leather hiking boots £595, mrporter.com

DAMP PROOFING

Danner Mountain Pass Mink Oil boots $370 (approx. £270), global.danner.com

If your leather boots get wet, don’t expose them to heat – air-dry them with newspaper inside and then apply a good nourishing cream to keep the leather seasoned Euan Denholm, Head of Brand at Edward Green

Manolo Blahnik Calaurio calf hair boots £1,075, manoloblahnik.com

New & Lingwood scotchgrain leather hiking boots £395, newandlingwood.com

ROA Andreas leather hiking boots £335, matchesfashion.com

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STYLE — no time to style?

Edited by SAM KESSLER

007 Style

CASINO ROYALE –

DANIEL CRAIG’S MOST ICONIC BOND LOOKS AND HOW TO GET THEM

Off-duty Venetian cool >>> Craig’s first clandestine outing in 2006 was a new era for 007, a grittier, more thoughtful era, and one reflected in his clothes. Sure, there was still the occasional poker-ready tuxedo, but combined with a few more casual outfits tailored specifically to show off this new, more brutal Bond – such as this all-season ensemble on the canals of Venice.

The T-Shirt: Sunspel

>>>> It’s almost here: the 25th James Bond film and Daniel Craig’s final outing as the world’s least secret agent. While initial reviews are yet to come in, the hype seems to have been building unabated, despite endless delays pushing it back to next month. That’s never a good sign but we’ll hold our judgement until we’ve sat through the longest Bond film ever ourselves. No matter how it turns out though, there’s little doubt that Craig’s Bond has had a huge impact on men’s style. From his initial brooding foray in Casino Royale to the immense Skyfall and finally to No Time to Die (yes, we’re skipping the crap ones), 007 has consistently shown off impeccable taste, whether suited and booted or in a more off-duty look. Here then are three of Craig’s most iconic and stylish 007 looks, and how you too can emulate Bond. James Bond.

>—> After reinventing their iconic polo for the film, Sunspel also decided to tailor their v-neck to Daniel Craig’s imposing physique, giving us the Riviera T-shirt. The two-fold, long-staple cotton is incredibly soft and perfect for transitioning between seasons, the kind of wardrobe staple that no man should be without. Here it makes the perfect underlayer for Craig’s canal louche look. £75, sunspel.com

The Cardigan: John Smedley

>—> The Cullen cardigan is a dye-in-the-wool classic of British knitwear. Said wool is in fact a combination of cashmere and merino wool for comfort and breathability so that, even though it’s geared towards winter layering, it works to keep the chill Venetian wind off despite the warm weather. Add in a shawl neck for some old school flair, unbutton for a more casual drape and there you have it. £335, johnsmedley.com

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STYLE — no time to style?

The Suit: Tom Ford

The Watch: Omega

>—> Tom Ford is the de facto James Bond tailor and is behind pretty much every two-piece, threepiece and tuxedo that the spy has worn in the Craig era. Of course, Bond suits are bespoke, so don't expect to find them off the rack any time soon. Tom Ford's Shelton Suit however is in a similar style and, while blue rather than green (at time of writing there isn't a like-to-like comparison in the designer's collection) it'll keep you looking just as sharp, for far less money. £2,980, tomford.co.uk

SKYFALL –

Back to the classics >>> What many consider the best Bond film ever made (they’ve obviously never seen Octopussy), Skyfall not only delved into the oft-ignored backstory of James Bond but offered up everything from Komodo dragons to Home Alone with guns. This brooding shot of Crag heading towards his family home in Scotland encapsulates what the whole film is about.

>—> ‘Rolex?’, ‘Omega.’ The call and response that hammered home that the new Bond watch had arrived. The 300m Professional was already a well thought of timepiece before then but afterwards its signature wavy blue dial became a must-have for divers and collectors alike. It’s had an aesthetic update since 2006, particularly around the bezel, but it’s still instantly recognisable as the Bond watch. £4,450, omegawatches.com

The Car: Aston Martin The Watch: Omega

>—> Bond actually wore two Omegas throughout the course of Skyfall, the first being a big, bulky, Planet Ocean 600m. For a more restrained look however, he opted for the dressier Aqua Terra 150m (above). It’s a less intense bit of kit but goes far better with tailoring, able to slip under the cuff without catching. The specific version in question has a blue dial with the collection’s signature teak decking-esque engraving. It’s the most pared back of Omega’s Seamaster collection but still a decently solid timepiece – which is probably a good thing when your country estate is about to be blown up. £4,910, omegawatches.com

The Chinos: Ralph Lauren

>—> Another classic, albeit venturing slightly further away from his usual British sensibilities, is a pair of light-coloured Ralph Lauren chinos. You should never board a boat without them. Contrasting with the black cardigan, they’re the perfect smart casual trouser for any season. The latest version would be a vintage-inspired buckled stretch chinos in khaki stone. £125, ralphlauren.co.uk

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>—> No Bond film is complete without an Aston Martin these days and no Bond film is over until that Aston Martin has been blown up at least once. The car this time however isn’t a modern Aston, but the classic that put one in every film fan’s dream garage: the legendary DB5. According to director Sam Mendes, Skyfall’s last scenes were meant to look as if they could have been filmed in 1962, going back to Bonds roots figuratively and, in the movie, literally. This Aston Martin is the perfect example of that. Needless to say, they don’t come cheap and will set you back upwards of £500,000. If you’re looking for a serious example, keep an eye on British Aston Martin specialist Nicholas Mee, who often have some flawless DB5s on offer. nicholasmee.co.uk

STYLE — no time to style?

The Watch: Omega

NO TIME TO DIE >>> Delays are never good but in the case of No Time to Die at least they weren’t due to production. And besides, there are a fair few things to be excited about, not least of which will be Rami Malek’s villainous Safin. Unfortunately, at time of writing the film is yet to be released, which means we don’t have context for just why 007’s striding through a lush Norwegian forest. All we really know is that his look is on point. Whoever takes over from Craig will have some seriously stylish boots to fill. Speaking of…

The Boots: Crockett & Jones

>—> Northampton shoemaker Crockett & Jones have been working with the franchise since Skyfall and for this particular jaunt the pair in question is the Molton Chukka boots in rough-out suede in a dark, chocolate brown. While they’re certainly elegant and would serve well enough in the city, the Dainite rubber sole adds the practicality you’d want when guns could be drawn at any point. I mean come on, who isn’t expecting a tree to explode at any second? £395, crockettandjones.com

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>—> While you can’t see the watch in this particular shot (left), we’re well aware of what it is, if only because it’s one of the best pieces Omega has released in the past decade or so. A militaristic take on the Seamaster 300m, it still has all the diving credentials but has dropped the collection’s signature wavy dial in favour of a piece of matte anodized aluminium designed to fade over time, complete with tan indices that glow blue in low light. It even has the broad arrow of the Ministry of Defence at six o’clock, an allusion to the mil-spec pieces of yore. With sand-blasted finishing rather than polished, it has the utilitarian, function over form look that Bond’s watch collection has always been missing. £7,390, omegawatches.com

STYLE — no time to style?

“ The Dainite rubber sole adds the practicality you’d want when guns could be drawn at any point ”

The Coat: Massimo Alba

>—> Deviating from his usual penchant for Barbour, the RAIN2duster (right) is made by Milanese brand Massimo Alba from cotton needlecord (corduroy by any other name) and is distinctly non-fitted for a cool, flowing look that drapes nicely when open. The mossy green couldn’t fit better with the natural environment – just don’t expect the rain coat to keep off a serious storm. For a chill forest though? It couldn’t be better, especially if you like a good swoosh. The trousers (far right), incidentally, are from Massimo Alba too, namely the Maoko in a washed black of the same needlecord material. Duster, €837, massimoalba.com Trousers, €290, massimoalba.com

The Shirt: Rag & Bone

>—> A classic, long-sleeved Henley shirt, this is actually worn by Craig a few times throughout No Time to Die. And it’s not hard to see why. The classic fit, the soft cotton, the everyday need for a white underlayer, it’s the shirt that keeps on giving. Complete with a Henley collar and the New York brand’s typically exceptional quality. Looking for a year-round layering staple? Then this is it. £115, rag-bone.com

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wilhelm schmid

Elegant, classical, rarefied to a fault – I could be describing either the Concours of Elegance at Hampton Court or their watch partner A. Lange & Sohne. This year marks the tenth anniversary of Wilhelm Schmid taking the reins of the most prestigious watchmaker in Glashütte – and one of the most prestigious in the world, for that matter – steering the German brand into a new era of haute horology. It would be enough to inflate any ego. And yet, as we sit in the sunshine of Hampton Court, not quite nursing champagne and surrounded by the occasional roars of a half-a-century-old engine, it’s clear that ego doesn’t come into it. In fact, our chat was broken off every now and then by Lange owners taking the opportunity to come and say hi. From his reaction, it was something Wilhelm was somewhat used to. “Ha, I’ve not gotten to see much of the concours yet because of this; but the sun’s shining, I get to meet some of our customers, who am I to complain?” He’s evidently in his element. Rather than just turning up as part of the Lange sponsorship of the Concours of Elegance, Wilhelm entered with his 1959 Porsche 356 B Roadster and I get the sense that, even if there wasn’t a business relationship, he’d be a regular. “I was actually here last year. There was that three-week window when we were allowed in? Yes please! Hampton Court took place but it just wasn’t the same. It was nice in its way because it was the only thing you could do, but not like this.” 2021 is the fourth year Lange has sponsored the Hampton Court Concours and tenth at its Italian counterpart, the Concorzo D’Eleganza Villa D’Este, a relationship originally for the twin purposes of tapping into an extraordinary level of collector and also have something to discuss with us journalists. “For us though, it’s not just a branding exercise”, explains Wilhelm. “We’re not here because it’s a platform, we want to be here. I’m a proper petrolhead. I bought my Porsche three years ago and it took us two years to bring it up to this level. After this it’ll go back to the restorer because it never ends.”

Words:

Sam Kessler

Man of Influence:

WILHELM SCHMID

THE A. LANGE & SOHNE CEO ON CARS, CRAFTSMANSHIP AND LIMITED EDITIONS

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man of influence

Wilhelm is a proper petrolhead and entered the Concours of Elegance with his 1959 Porsche 356 B Roadster, which he bought three years ago and then spent two years bringing it up to this standard. It’s a consuming hobby though: “after [the Concours] it’ll go back to the restorer because it never ends”

Always get in a specialist, it seems, and for Lange that’s proven as true of watchmaking as it is in cars. It’s why Lange has some of the best horologists in the business working behind the scenes to develop their complications; and why the German brand has invested so heavily in keeping watchmaking alive. “My biggest cost a year is school”, explains Wilhelm. “We have our own watchmaker and toolmaker school and without it we wouldn’t know how to operate our business, we’d disappear, we’d just go away. We’ve tried to expand the schools but found that greater quantity doesn’t mean better quality. We’ve found that sweet spot between 12 and 15 young students a year – it’s a three-year apprenticeship so that’s between 40 and 50 people.”

“We have our own watchmaker and toolmaker school and without it we wouldn’t know how to operate our business, we’d disappear, we’d just go away” You don’t pump that level of investment into something and not expect a return, and obviously Lange having the prestige they do, surely most of those students stay on in Glashütte? “Most often they do, yes. Sometimes they’ll leave and come back, which we also want. We want them to go and get experience as head of a department and bring those skills back to us. We also send them to master watchmaker courses.” With so few spots its obviously a

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competitive course to get on. There are a good number of horology classes across Switzerland and there are even a few here in the UK, but the chance to work for a brand of this calibre is easier said than done. And even if you’re the most dextrous mechanist in the world, you might not fit the bill. “There are three elements we look for. There’s a bit of brain, you need to have a fundamental understanding of maths and physics. Then you have to have the dexterity, some people simply

wilhelm schmid

can’t control their hands. Then we have… a certain element. The social competence. We want them to fit into the company, we need them to be able to work with others, to settle in as part of the team.” With demand beginning to outstrip supply for master watchmakers, it’s becoming ever more tempting for other brands too to expand their skill pool. According to Wilhelm though, it won’t be something investors will be looking to do any time soon. “But there’s good reason most watch

“I always have to smile a little bit when I see watchmakers releasing a limited edition of 2,000. I think, ‘shit! That’s half of my annual production!”

The Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst (below, left) is limited to 30 pieces and is the result of Wilhelm’s watchmakers wanting “to push what they could do”

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companies don’t have their own watchmaker school; it’s pretty intense, pretty expensive and won’t give you any short term return. You need to have a long breath before it pays dividends.” For Lange it evidently has, and not just in production levels which, though softly, softly, are going up. More impressive though are the in-house skills they’ve picked up, skills that have been hammered home with the extraordinary Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst. A gloriously impractical deviation from the Lange norm of minimalist beauty, the Handwerkskunst isn’t just an unusual rectangular timepiece, but one that’s had an unusual amount of finishing lavished upon it. “My watchmakers came to me and said they wanted to do more, that they wanted to push what they could do. So, I let them and the Handwerkskunst is the result. It’s also completely impractical!” The new Cabaret Tourbillon is limited strictly to 30 pieces, which by Lange standards isn’t all that restrictive, especially for such an odd duck in the Lange flock. But compare that to many other watchmakers in the world and it looks like a very scarce number indeed. Which suits Wilhelm just fine. “I always have to smile a little bit when I see watchmakers releasing a limited edition of 2,000. I think, ‘shit! That’s half of my annual production! If you don’t limit it for a reason, I honestly don’t think it helps.’” So to round off it would be remiss of me not to put Wilhelm on the spot and, in the glorious sunshine of the Hampton Court Concours of Elegance, pin down his favourite entry. Which is a little unfair, given the growing group of customers at Lange’s pop-up display meant he wouldn’t be leaving the enclosure any time soon. Even so, he was quick with answer: “Other than mine? I love that Aston Martin DB3 Coupe over here,” he says, gesturing to one of the few cars near the Lange enclosure, “it’s very appealing to me. It’s beyond beauty, it’s character.” Again, that can apply to the Concours and Lange both.

Hands-On Reviews

THE SPECS

• 40.5mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW510 MP Elaboré automatic movement with 62-hour power reserve • £1,750, farer.com

HANDS-ON WITH THE

FARER

SEGRAVE MONOPUSHER CHRONOGRAPH A refreshing twist on a decidedly vintage complication that’s as affordable as it is fun

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I love monopushers. There, I’ve said it, my dirty little secret is out. I’m well aware that they’re intrinsically not as useful as the kind of dual pusher fare we’re all more familiar with; the inability to stop and start without resetting limits their uses slightly. But with that kind of thinking mechanical watches would have fully died out with the advent of quartz. Instead, the fact that I’m sitting here writing about an outdated method of timekeeping shows that there’s room for the archaic complication. And while monopushers are seeing the light of day more and more – Vertex, Montblanc and, most recently, Bamford Watch Department have all given them a go – I’ve been waiting with bated breath for something more modern than vintage. Farer’s Segrave is just that. On the surface, a black dial with white indexes seems far too classic for the British brand. But in true Farer fashion, they’ve opted for a big-eye layout, with the larger of the two subdials in high-contrast white for stopwatch minutes. The contrast is in more than colour too; not only is it inset, but it’s been given a radial, turned texture to set it apart. Like the white-on-black date at six o’clock, the running second subdial at nine all but blends in. Or it would if it weren’t for the bright orange hand. Farer being Farer, that’s not the only hint of colour, with the chronograph minutes opting for green and the chronograph seconds an eyecatching sky blue. As ever, it’s a combination that on paper shouldn’t work but, as I’m sure you can see from our images, really, really does. It’s not all about the dial though. The 40.5mm monobloc bellytanker case is in a word, lovely. It feels relatively small on the wrist, partially thanks to the sizing, partially to the drop away lugs, but still has a nice heft to it. The knurled sides are a great touch too, adding detail to a part of the watch most wearers – and very few designers – ever bother to look at. The one downside is that I’d say it could be a touch bigger. 40.5mm is a nice, retro size but it doesn’t leave much room for the telemetre around the circumference of the dial, which to my screen-fried eyes is a bit hard to read. The movement inside is a Sellita, but not your entry-level workhorse. Farer has opted for the SW510 MP Elaboré, a monopusher movement with a distinctly non-entry-level of finishing. Blued screws, a touch of guilloche and a cool, navyblue Farer rotor mean that the exhibition caseback is welcome. Aside from the finishing, the movement has a substantial 62-hour power reserve, which is even more welcome. I have felt more mechanically satisfying monopushers in the past, but then I’ve played with a lot more expensive ones to boot. It’s solid enough and responsive, so I can’t complain that it doesn’t have the heft of a piece of haute horology. In fact, for £1,750, this is a lot of watch.

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The knurled sides are a great touch, adding detail to a part of the watch most wearers – and very few designers – ever bother to look at Unlike other Farer collections so far, there is only one variation of the Segrave, which makes me wonder when the rest are coming out. It’s not like them to miss the opportunity to flex their design muscles with a few funky twists on the formula. Still, it does come with plenty of different strap options, so you can pick out which of the colours you want to show off. A monopusher is a difficult thing to pull off, and there are multiple reasons why there just aren’t that many of them around, let alone ones that actually have a bit of fun with the formula. I’ve liked Farer for a while, so I was expecting good things from the Segrave; now it might just be my favourite piece in their collection. £1,750, farer.com

Hands-On Reviews

THE SPECS

• Gucci 25H Automatic • 40mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • GG727.25 calibre automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • £7,500 for the steel edition, gucci.com

HANDS-ON WITH THE

GUCCI’S

NEW HIGH WATCHMAKING LINE The legendary Italian fashion label sets their sights on sports luxe horology with the 25H

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When I heard that Gucci were ploughing forward with their fine watchmaking wing, I wasn’t all that excited, and I doubt I was the only one. Other than the likes of Louis Vuitton and Hermes, fashion labels aren’t known for the… classiest of designs, Gucci included. But, they insisted, this was their new entry into high-end watches, a shiny new chapter in the Italian brand’s horological story. Fortunately, when I got the Gucci 25H in my hands I realised that I really shouldn’t have been worried. The watches are, perhaps unsurprisingly, very well done. First off, the 25H wears its inspirations on it’s sleeve and while Gucci may be a little late to the Gerald Genta-hosted sports luxe party, it definitely belongs there. The label started making watches back in 1972 (bring that nugget out at your next watch trivia party), right at the time the Royal Oak was first born, and that legacy is readily apparent here. Rather than the chunky, muscular look of that legendary AP however, the Gucci 25H follows more in the line of the rounder Nautilus and more modern Piaget Polo, albeit with a striking, monochromatic look, particularly on the full steel model. The bi-colour’s a bit cooler in a decidedly retro way, but I love the tone-on-tone of the steel; it has more of an industrial twang. It’s not particularly original and feels like playing it safe given the current zeitgeist, but that could be exactly what Gucci need. Across the board the 25H is incredibly well finished and the integrated bracelet is up there with the Royal Oak. There’s also a lot less branding than you might expect. The quartz versions of these watches include Gucci logo hour markers, but here there’s just the typical signature at 12 o’clock. It’s refreshing to see and the engraved red calibre number at six o’clock is a particularly cool touch. The main dial includes yacht decking-adjacent bars, spaced slightly further apart than the Nautilus or Omega Aqua Terra for a more industrial feel. With the brickwork look of the bracelet it has the feel of an old factory building converted into a series of seriously high-end apartments. On the wrist, the ultra-slim nature of the 25H’s 38mm case, combined with that bracelet makes for an incredibly comfortable piece. Beware though. As I’ve been told by a more hirsute member of the Oracle Team you do risk a few hairs between those links. Inside is what will make or break this new direction for Gucci, a solid automatic movement. I say solid as it has some serious horological chops behind it. Kerring, owners of Gucci, also make Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin and the calibre GG727.25 is made in the same manufacture out of La Chaux-

With the brickwork look of the bracelet it has the feel of an old factory building converted into a series of seriously high-end apartments 119

de-Fonds. The micro-rotor-equipped movement has a solid 60-hour power reserve and is a lovely sight besides, with bars matching those on the dial, albeit slightly finer. Now, there are tourbillons in the new 25H collection and are pretty much the same design just with said complication open at six o’clock. Personally, I’m not interested in those nearly as much as the pair of automatics. Just throwing a tourbillon into the mix does not a great watch make. The overall sports luxe design exemplified in the automatics is what really matters. Gucci still have plenty of work to do to hit the watchmaking heights that LV, Bulgari and Hermes have achieved over the years, but not only do they have the heritage to back it up, they have some serious expertise on their side. If the 25H is their first foray, then I’m far more excited than I ever thought I would be to see what comes next. Steel edition, £7.500, gucci.com

new horizon

The

Final

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new horizon

Words:

Sam Kessler

Frontier

WHEN WILL COMMERCIAL SPACE FLIGHTS BECOME A REALITY?

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Back in July, Amazon founder, Jeff Bezos became not just the richest man on the planet, but the richest man off it too, as he, his brother, a Space Race veteran and a random 18-year-old student jetted into space. It was a groundbreaking, historical event that proved that even your average multi-billionaire can achieve their dreams. Yet before Bezos blasted off in his mid-life crisis incarnate, the unsubtly phallic New Shepherd, rival would-be spaceman Richard Branson was already cruising slightly lower at the edge of the stratosphere via the longer established competition to Blue Origin, Virgin Galactic. It’s honestly inspiring to see ubermench of such Randian proportions contribute to the real crises of the world.

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Yet for us humble citizens of Earth, rooted to terra firma, it does beg the question: when oh when will we get a go? Well, unfortunately, it might be a little while yet. While both Blue Origin and Virgin Galactic are getting ready to offer bookings for potential spaceflights, the former has yet to announce pricing and the latter starts at £250,000. If you own a couple of hedge funds and a Cayman Islands bank account, that might seem attainable but for most people, it’s not even close. The best parallel is also an obvious one: air travel. Back in the early days, air travel was a novelty rather than the necessity it is today, with a handful of dubious aircraft complete with fewer passengers than an entry-level Cessna.

new horizon

That made it expensive. It wasn’t until more airlines started running more flights, larger aircraft and a multitude of routes that prices came down to the point where you can book a trip to Italy for £50 via Easyjet. Unfortunately, going straight up and down, no matter how exhilarating, isn’t quite as useful. At the moment it’s a glorified joyride. Add in the intense fuel costs involved and the fact that reusable rockets, while cost-cutting, are still very much in their infancy. So how can we change things?

SpaceX is already working on using their suborbital Starship rocket to cut down the 15-hour New York to Shanghai flight down to 39 minutes

Richard Branson (above) won the multi-billionaire race with Jeff Bezos, as he reached the edge of the stratosphere in Virgin Atlantic’s Blue Origin days before the Amazon founder and you could one day join him there... if you have a spare £250,000 to hand

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Well, by scaling things up. At the moment, long-haul flights can take upwards of 10 hours. Instead, by shooting up out of the atmosphere, an aircraft could travel in the vacuum of space at supersonic speeds where there’s far less air resistance. Fly against the curvature of the Earth and not only are you travelling faster, but your relative speed to the planet is even greater, reducing flight times drastically. It sounds like a far-fetched plan, but it’s one that’s already in the works. SpaceX is already working on using their suborbital Starship rocket to cut down the 15-hour New York to Shanghai flight down to 39 minutes. Virgin Galactic also have ideas in the arena, though not being led by Elon Musk they’re a bit less vocal about what they’re aiming for. It’s a theory that UBS believes in, which valued the sector at roughly $20 billion back in 2019, if only 5% of long haul fliers decided to opt for it. And its not hard to see where that faith comes from, given that Virgin Galactic’s SpaceShipTwo actually lands on a runway. It’s more than a reusable rocket; it’s a stratospheric jumbo jet in its infancy. There is however the problem of mass. Bezos took up three other passengers and Branson a total of 11. The more people you take up that high, the larger the energy costs, the most expensive, dangerous and potentially out of reach it gets. So far these have still very much been test flights. Fortunately, it’s not just the spacefaring triumvirate of Blue Origin, Virgin Galactic and SpaceX that are getting in on the act, either. Taking up the mantle of Concorde, Aerion and Boom Supersonic are two companies working on insanely quick supersonic aircraft with sweeping, parabolic flight paths right to the edge of space. Better yet, they might not be far off from becoming affordable, if Boom CEO Blake Scholl is to be believed. He reckons that by 2026, we’ll be able to fly anywhere in the world in under four hours for less than £100. That’s a bold prediction. Here’s hoping it’s true. Of course, in all these instances what goes up must come down. There are a few concepts on the horizon where that might not be the case. Axiom Space are

new horizon

Virgin Galactic’s SpaceShipTwo (left) lands on a runway like a plane and is competing for supremacy of the stratosphere with Boom Supersonic (above) whose CEO believes that by 2026, we’ll be able to fly anywhere in the world in under four hours for less than £100

Before we get trips to space for less than a business class ticket, we’ll have to put up witha lot more billionaires taking a lot more rocket-fuelled publicity stunts

among a handful of firms on the way to building commercial space stations in orbit, and aside from interiors designed by Philippe Starck (no joke) construction seems to be well underway. There are plenty of reasons behind such projects of course, ranging from a hotel with a view to vital research to a worrying lack of governmental oversight, sometimes a bit of all three.

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But progress has been slow and will continue to be until at least a couple of these projects – be they Axiom or competitors Bigelow Aerospace and the Gateway Foundation – are complete. So back to that original question of when. When will all this become affordable to the non-billionaire layperson? The fact is, we don’t know and estimates vary wildly. The least conservative suggest the 2030s, which doesn’t seem too implausible. Still, next time you take the Red Eye, that’ll seem like forever. The bottom line however is that they need demand and in order to build demand they need money and those willing to part with it. So before we get trips to space that cost less than a business class ticket on BA, we’ll have to put up with a lot more billionaires taking a lot more rocket-fuelled publicity stunts out of the atmosphere first.

A ca leath boot for s

CULTURE — spirits

POTHECARY GIN

Can I buy you a drink? Words: Aidy Smith

This year really has just flown by. It seems odd to say, but in just two months it will be Christmas again. I know, I know, it makes no sense so allow me to touch upon a couple of things that do. Welcome back to your personal drinks corner where I seek out the best imbibes for your glass - and what a treat we have this week. From martinis and sparkling (which isn’t champagne!) to heart-warming reds - take your pick and wet your lips, my friends.

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Handcrafted in small batches in a microdistillery, the founders of Pothecary make sure everything that goes into their product is perfect. The five botanicals of juniper, tilia flowers, black mulberries, lemon, and lavender are all either wild-foraged or organic, and each ingredient is distilled separately. As a testament to their dedication, the founders fill, cork and seal each bottle by hand. If the word martini makes you happy, then you’re in for a real treat here. £37 from Master of Malt

CULTURE — spirits

BALCONES TEXAS RYE 100 PROOF In case you didn’t know, Texas is producing some kick-ass whisky. This addition to the Balcones range is one of my favourites. Rich in aroma you’re hit with a freshly cut leather, tobacco and cracked black pepper on the nose, held together by a Ceylon tea and sweet cedar oak. The palate offers toffee popcorn, sugar coated macadamia nuts and a touch of white pepper. As the nuttiness fades, a dark chocolate and charred caramel find their way onto the palate for a long harmonious finish. Easy now, cowboy. £43 from The Whiskey Exchange

GRAND MARNIER CUVÉE ALEXANDRE Originally created as a tribute to the Founder of Grand Marnier, this stunning orange liqueur and VSOP cognac will be the heavenly addition to some of the best cocktails you’ll ever make (I’m looking at the Sidecar here). The blend of 82% VSOP Cognac and 18% bitter, aromatic bigaradia orange liqueur intertwines candied orange, vanilla and a zesty citrus caramel with rich oak and an incredibly smooth and rich palate. When I get this excited about things, you know they’re going to be good. £52 from The Whisky Exchange

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In case you didn’t know, Texas is producing some kick-ass whisky

DISTILLERY NO. 209 BARREL RESERVE A beautiful peachy-brown colour rests in each glass, the colour being a product of this gin being aged in French Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Barrels. There’s a growing number of such gins, but this is one of the best. Sticky caramel, juniper and peach hit you on the nose while the palate offers sweet citrus, a spice-rich black pepper, ginger and cloves. The finale erupts into a sensation of dark chocolate, interlaced with oak and vanilla. All in all this is a sensational gin which deserves to be sipped entirely on its own. £57 from Distillers Direct

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CULTURE — wine

CA’ DEL BOSCO ANNAMARIA CLEMENTI 2010 Welcome to the world of luxury Italian sparkling wines. This is Franciacorta. Lauded by critics as the very best wine available from Lombardy, a blend of chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot blanc grapes is expertly hand-selected and processed using a traditional Champagnestyle method and bottleaged for six years on their lees. The resulting semi-sweet sparkling wine is enticing in its complexity; unlike a straightforward Prosecco this is a sparkling wine to make you think. With an aroma of peaches, citrus, and dried fruit and a palate of Golden Delicious apples and bright citrus notes that is all at once creamy, fruit-forward, and beautifully refined. Grazie mille, Maurizio and Annamaria £101 from VINVM

AU BON CLIMAT PINOT NOIR 2018 Straight from Santa Maria in the heart of California. Au Bon Climat have created a sublime reputation for themselves, and with very good reason. The 2018 vintage offers vibrant notes of toffee and cherry, deep dark black and red fruits with that oaky vanilla touch, bursting with a ‘jammy’ boldness. This is no light Pinot, you can expect complexity like a baked pie, it’s almost like a young Zin bursting with flavour. Leave this beauty to sit for 20 minutes before diving into a glass, you’ll be incredibly thankful. £34 from Harvey Nichols

CASTELLO FONTERUTOLI GRAN SELEZIONE 2015

WARWICK TRILOGY 2017 A credit to South African wine making from one of the most renowned wineries in the country. In my opinion, this is one of Warwick’s finest. Freshly wrapped cigar and tobacco with milk chocolate cocoa, plums, red berries, a little liquorice. Slight tannins and heaps of oak that balance to create the perfect finish. If you’re into those bigger bolder wines as we creep into autumn, say hello to your new best friend. £28 from Vivino

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If you’re into those bigger bolder wines as we creep into autumn, say hello to your new best friend

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The Castello Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2015 is a sensual treat. A luscious dark red hue sits in the glass, bursting with lightly baked cherry and plum pie. There’s a delightful 60% dark chocolate caramel that lingers amongst the red berry freshness on the nose. On the palate you experience a lovely dry earthiness with a perfectly balanced acidity that really brings this Chianti to life. The mid-palate offers you a sumptuous velvety tannin, with layers of milk chocolate that erupt into a finale of red and black meadow fruits, as if reenacting the concluding the final note of a symphony. £55 from Vivino

CULTURE — food & drink

EDITED BY MICHAEL SONSINO

RESTAURANT &BAR

NEWS It’s impossible to tell what’s around the corner and while international travel is still largely off the table, within the UK a wary sense of normality is starting to creep in. After almost two years, perhaps we’re finally adjusting to whatever this ‘new normal’ is. And a large part of that feeling has been thanks to the launch of many new restaurants that let us get out of the house and enjoy good food and better company. Here are some recent and upcoming openings that have us excited right now.

↓ KASE AND KIN

52-53 Poland Street, Soho, W1F 7NQ

Kase and Kin is the second venture of Filipino foodie Rowena Romulo in London, the mind behind the multiaward winning Romulo Café and Restaurant. The new Soho-based establishment, which was consulted on by Michelin-star chef Pat McDonald of The Savoy, hones in on Filipino and southeast Asian cooking. There’s an extensive array of food available throughout the day, including its own patisserie and bakery and I already want to try their Chocolate & Banana Bad Boy dessert! Opens 20 October, follow them at instagram.com/kasaandkin to stay up to date

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CULTURE — food & drink

You can be sure all the favourite dishes from the other venues will be making their way to Soho, including their city-wide famous Kashmiri lamb chops

↑ GUNPOWDER SOHO

20 Greek Street, Soho, W1D 4EF Gunpowder is a small collection of Indian restaurants inspired by the private members and golf clubs of Kolkata, Mumbai and Delhi. They actually managed to thrive during lockdown thanks to their popular home delivery service, which means they’re now ready to open their landmark third site in London. You can be sure all the favourite dishes from the other venues will be making their way to Soho, including their city-wide famous Kashmiri lamb chops. Open now, find out more at gunpowderrestaurants.com

↑ EL PIRATA

5-6 Down Street, Mayfair, W1J 7AQ Ok, so, El Pirata is not exactly a new opening, having been a staple of London streets for over 26 years… However, following lockdown it feels like we’re seeing all these restaurants for the first time so why not use this excuse to visit an old favourite. And El Pirata’s Spanish tapas is the perfect food to reconnect with people over. The menu is also as fresh as ever coming off the back of a month-long gin festival. Open now, book at elpirata.co.uk

↑ IL BORRO TUSCAN BISTRO

15 Berkeley St, Mayfair, W1J 8DY The whisperings of a new high-end Italian restaurant opening in Mayfair have been circulating for a few months now, but as we finally approach opening night, more details have finally emerged. Named Il Borro Tuscan Bistro it’s a fine dining farm-to-table concept from the Il Borro estate in Tuscany, Italy with ingredients such as vegetables, olive oil and wine taken straight from the estate. It’s fresh, it’s Italian, it’s in Mayfair, I’m already salivating. Opens 11 October, for more details check out ilborrotuscanbistro.co.uk

The whisperings of a new high-end Italian restaurant opening in Mayfair have been circulating for a few months now 132

CULTURE — food & drink

[POP OUT] ELSEWHERE IN THE UK

↓ CASABLANCA COCKTAIL CLUB 233 Cowgate, Edinburgh, EH1 1JQ

→ HOME RUN HOUSE

Westfield, Stratford, London, E20 1EJ Our style shoot this issue leans heavily on its funky Philly location, Cleveland Street’s Passyunk Avenue, home to the best cheesesteaks in London. I mean it. Their homemade cheese whizz is the stuff of comfort food dreams. Yet if you’re looking for a more physical ode to Americana, then we’d definitely recommend Home Run

Set inside the immensely successful House of Gods hotel in the Scottish capital, the Casablanca Cocktail Club promises one of the most decadent and over the top dinning experiences that you could ever wish for. All I need to say is ‘24 carat gold Wagyu burger’ and you’ll

House, the restaurant’s batting cage venue. As authentic as Passyunk’s faithful Philadelphia specialities, the food instead takes on classic ballpark fare – nachos, hot dogs and the like – with plenty of decent beer. As we not-so-patiently wait for the chain’s Leak Street venue to finally open, Home Run House is a decent way to work off all that delicious, delicious cheese. Find out more at passyunkavenue.com

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understand the type of cuisine we’re talking about. That luxury expands to the mirrored ceilings, pinot noir velvet chairs and gilded artworks that create an unparalleled atmosphere. Open now. Learn more at houseofgodshotel.com

jonny garrett

Words:

Sam Kessler

Fire in his belly

WILLIAM WOOD FOUNDER JONNY GARRETT ON THE BRAND’S TURNING POINT, INSPIRATION AND MAKING A DIFFERENCE

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jonny garrett

By now, you’ll probably have come across William Wood at one point or another. The British brand has been making waves with their firefighter-themed timepieces, complete with straps made from upcycled fire hose and the kind of obsessive attention to detail that shows a true passion for the subject matter. They’re unmistakable. But there’s a lot more to the brand than just being part of the new wave of British watches, more even than their novel designs and funky details. And it all starts with the reason Mr. Jonny Garret started the brand in the first place.

The Heat edition of the William Wood Triumph Collection (above) with the signature red fire hose strap, and the original William Wood (top) at Newcastle Pilgrim Street Fire Station

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“William Wood was the name of my grandfather, who served on the Newcastle and Gateshead Fire Brigade for over 25 years on the Blue Watch. He was a massive role model in my life and effectively went on to drive my entire career, really. He’s why our ethos is so related to fire fighting.” Like many a newcomer to the watch world, their collection began with a handsome quartz piece, the Chivalrous dress watch. It was designed for off-duty firefighters, unfussed but classy with a few thematic touches. But it wasn’t until the Valiant, the brand’s premier automatic that William Wood really hit their stride. “We already had a dress watch and there was a hole for something more durable. I loved the ruggedness of a dive watch, something that firefighters could just chuck on when they went out to an emergency.” And do they actually wear them? “Some of them do, yeah, they wear them into burning buildings and the watches come back with this cool smoky effect. You can smell the fire on them.” The Valiant did extraordinarily well for the brand. In Jonny’s words, “it was a turning point for us.” But now William Wood’s rounded another corner as they’ve upped the ante with the Triumph Chronograph. “It’s been a huge, huge evolution. It’s taken us probably four years to get to a fully Swiss-made chronograph movement and it’s been a big step for us. It was a bit of a test, too, as it pushed our price point up to where we weren’t sure if people would go for it. Well, we produced 100 in the first batch and all of them sold out in 48 hours, so apparently they will.” Obviously the £2,500 that the Triumph will set you back is coasting into some seriously competitive territory. For not much more you can get a Swiss watch from a longestablished brand rather than a young British brand. But William Wood might have more of an edge than you think – especially if their incredible recent auction success is anything to go by. Last month, US-based first responder charity Tunnels to Towers ran an auction to commemorate the 20th

jonny garrett

anniversary of 9/11. There were plenty of donations to raise money, but the headliner was a unique William Wood watch, a one of one created specifically for the auction. Think of it as the charity’s own Only Watch. “Bids are currently at $19,000! That’s an insane amount and it’s all going to a great cause. Tunnels to Towers basically gives away 200 mortgage free homes to the families of fallen firefighters and veterans all across America. It’s incredible, and I’m so proud we can be a part of it. “I still remember getting home from school on 9/11 and 20 years on to be able to donate a minimum of $29,000 (including the proceeds from our 100 pieces limited edition) to the charity means so much.” It’s a fantastic story, but from a business perspective also sets a precedent. William Wood watches do well at auction, and so there’s some serious value there. For a new brand

hoping to play in the big leagues, that’s a solid base to work with. “It’s also an entry point into what I reckon will be our biggest market, the US. There’s a very different sort of mentality in the states, they’re more impulse buy. But the fact that firefighters and first responders are put on a pedestal there has done really well for us.” It’s not like William Wood have all that much competition at the moment, either be that for civilians with an interest in and appreciation of firefighting, but among the firefighters themselves. There are plenty of watchmakers offering military pieces to squadrons and platoons, even a few here and there for medical services, but for firefighters? Name another. Don’t worry, I’ll wait. It’s little surprise then that Jonny’s been exploiting his niche in much the same way as Bremont, Breitling and IWC have air forces around the world.

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“We’ve been producing watches specifically for individual fire services for a while now. We’ve done it for Melbourne, London, Kuwait, even Kent Fire and Rescue service. Now, we’re going to be working with Tunnels to Towers to try and make a watch for the biggest fire service in the world: New York. That’ll be about 300 watches, all based on the Valiant.” The Valiant of course is still the bread-and-butter of William Wood. It’s the watch that made them and despite the coming of the Triumph, is still very much their signature piece, with plenty more variations to come – the latest of which is the Bronze Ruby Edition. “The bronze edition has been our most popular to date. We kind of wanted it to be the triumph, but we took a poll and no, the bronze Valiant. Bronze has been incredible for us and later this year we’ll be launching the Ruby (which I’m wearing now) with a strap made of upcycled firefighter uniform.” That strap is in a lovely desert sand colour, the first neutral coloured strap in William Wood’s off-kilter upcycled collection and while I’m personally on the fence as to whether it actually suits the Ruby Edition, it’s a solid addition to the collection. Better yet, even though it’s not a unique charity auction piece, you can still rest assured that some of the money will make its way to a good cause. “We’ve always donated some of our profits to firefighter charities and now we’re on track to donate at least $50,000 to charity just this year! It’s incredible. But it does make me look at other watch brands and think, ‘what is going on’? Even in our early years, we were giving at least a five figure amount; now we want to be the biggest donator to the UK’s firefighting charities and it’s a question of when, not if.” Sadly, Jonny’s grandfather, the inspiration and namesake of the brand passed away in 2009, so he never got to see the lengths William Wood has gone to in order to give back. But with numbers like that, £50,000 in a year to UK charities, $29,000 to their stateside counterparts, one thing’s for certain: he would have been proud.

CULTURE — unsung heroes

Words:

Sam Kessler

UNSUNG VINTAGE HERO:

ENICAR

The adventuring watchmaker you never knew about – but should 139

CULTURE — enicar

The quartz crisis was a dark time for watchmaking. When Seiko ushered in the future of timekeeping, they did so with the bells tolling for many a traditional, mechanical watch brand, now outdated, defunct, better left in the history books. Obviously, that didn’t happen and thank god for that. I’d hate to fill these pages with discourse on comparable battery lives. But the quartz crisis did have its fair share of casualties, among them a brand that were they still around today, would be a perfect fit for our adventure issue: Enicar. That’s not entirely true; Enicar as a brand does still exist and it’s still producing plenty of watches. They’re… fine? There’s nothing inherently wrong with the current embodiment of the Enicar name, but it’s a world away what they could have been before. Sure, they may produce ‘a range of over 300 flawless timepieces’ but before they were brought low by the inevitability of progress, they were all about one, dubbed the Sherpa.

The model was released just as serious diving watches like the Submariner and Fifty Fathoms were becoming indispensable to the golden age of underwater exploration and was even in consideration for a US Navy commission alongside those two heavyweights

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CULTURE — unsung heroes

Enicar takes its name from the backwards spelling of the founding Racine family, and it was their cult Sherpa timepiece that would define the brand after an Enicar ended up on the wrists of a Swiss climbing team that summited Everest in 1956

But first, a bit of background. The first Enicar watch dates back to 1913, though the watchmaker itself goes back a little further to 1854. The name comes from the backwards spelling of the founding Racine family, though let’s be fair, it suits the whole adventuring theme that they were gunning for in the 1950s, when they would equip adventurers around the world. First off, the brand went for diving in the mid50s, most famously with the Seapearl 600. The model was released just as serious diving watches like the Submariner and Fifty Fathoms were becoming indispensable to the golden age of underwater exploration and was even in consideration for a US Navy commission alongside those two heavyweights. Unfortunately, it didn’t get there for three reasons. First, despite its 600 feet water resistance, it had no rotating bezel for accurately timing how long you’d been under. Secondly, it has too much lume. Sure, lume was a necessity, but the Seapearl had big squares of the stuff painted on and gave off a bit too much radiation. Don’t worry if you want one now; it should have worn off a while ago. Thirdly, the navy didn’t really like the look of it, which is a travesty if ever I’ve heard one. After that, Enicar turned their attention from the depths to the heights. That’s how the Enicar Seapearl ended up on the wrists of a Swiss climbing team that summited Everest in 1956. They were beaten to the punch by Rolex by just three years, still pretty remarkable for a watchmaker with far, far fewer resources than the Watch with the Crown. They were however quicker to seize on the branding opportunity the ascent to the Roof of the World offers and trademarked ‘Sherpa’ as a collection name.

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Over the years, Enicar leaned heavily on the Sherpa name, producing their most varied collection of watches under the moniker. Other than the occasional really early models, which were a little dressier, the Sherpa became synonymous with the kind of funky layouts and colourways that the 1960s were all about. The 36mm Sherpa Jet for example (and larger 40mm Super Jet) offered a cool, sporty dual time traveller’s watch with the dual oversized crowns of a serious tool watch. Funky indexes , a genuinely interesting 24-hour scale and a decent size – for the time at least – make the Jet a perfect retro throwback today. The Sherpa Guide took things one step further and combined that dual time layout with an outer worldtime bezel. It’s a seriously cool watch if you can find one in decent nick. Unfortunately, quite a lot of them were well-loved and therefore wellused. Later versions added more colour to the whole affair and bright second hands to make the most of the display. It was like the cooler version of the Rolex GMT-Master. It still kind of is. Enicar produced far too many different models to go into here, most of which are worth knowing about, plenty of which are worth owning: the Sherpa Dive, taking the watch back to its roots, the Sherpa Graph chronograph and even a few nonSherpa models like the ultra-fun Big Eye. If you’re looking for a bit more of an in-depth foray into the subject, Time for a Change, Discovering Vintage Enicar by Martijn van der Ven should be your new bible. There is however one term you’ll come across aplenty, and that’s Ultrasonic. Ultrasonic cleaning is a standard thing in watch servicing these days, using sound waves in water to sonically rid the movement of dirt. Enicar though were one of the first to use it and plastered it on many of the dials that hid their in-house movements. The idea was that the technique would take away less oil, allowing for longer service intervals and a longer lifespan overall. That in turn means that vintage Enicar watches should, by rights, still be working rather well. So how have they held up price-wise? Well, Sherpas – Jets, Super Jets and Guides, specifically – will set you back anywhere between £3,000 and £8,000. That’s no surprise with their adventuring icon status, but if you’re looking for an unusual, dressier piece, earlier Ultrasonics go for just a few hundred. As the taste for retro adventure tool watches continues to grow, you can expect prices to only go up. Now, if only someone would buy the Enicar name back… Or even just Sherpa. Please?

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

IN FOCUS AN AUTHENTIC DIVER, A CHARITABLE TRIBE AND A DOUBLE CHRONOGRAPH ALL GO UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT

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IN FOCUS — Scurfa

THE WATCH CREATED BY DIVERS, FOR DIVERS Divers are a mainstay of the watchmaking world, a subset of timepieces in which pretty much every watch brand, big or small have dabbled in at one point or another. Hell, if you take a glance at the number of microbrands leaning heavily on water resistant designs it seems like there’s an insatiable thirst for tool pieces designed for depths. Yet where most fall down is that they’re designed by… well, watch designers. I’m not saying a horologist can’t create a fantastic dive watch, it’s just that there’s a bit more gravitas to a watch created by an actual professional diver – and Paul Scurfield is about as professional as it gets. Forget diving for pleasure; Paul spends up to four weeks at a time living at the bottom of the ocean, saturation diving. It’s dark, dangerous and not for the faint of heart. Horrific for those of us not used to the deep, but the perfect proving grounds for Scurfield’s own semi-eponymous brand, Scurfa. Since 2013, Scurfa has been offering a cool array of no-nonsense quartz timepices with an emphasis on survivability. They’ve done well, with the Diver One leading the way as an accessible, utilitarian watch. It’s worth noting however that Paul himself is a huge collector of vintage Tudor and Rolex, rubbing shoulders with the likes of Revolution’s Ross Povey and with a preposterous array of pristine vintage pieces squirrelled away. He’s been collecting about as long as he’s been saturation diving, and someone with that level of appreciation for fine watches was never going to stick with quartz alone. So now, like many a brand before them, Scurfa have graduated to mechanical with the Treasure Seeker. The Treasure Seeker isn’t strictly Scurfa’s first automatic piece. A short run of the Diver One and the blacked-out Bell Diver 1 both offered mechanical movements in a limited capacity. It’s just that the Treasure Seeker is upscaling that into a fully-fledged collection of seriously lovely – yet still accessible – watches. The focal point of the Treasure Seeker is the dial, which is a fantastic honeycomb of embossed hexagons. It’s subtler on the wrist than you might expect, even in the professionally bright orange and yellow variants. It’s the white however that’s become the frontrunner for the collection. Complete with large, applied indexes, it’s sleek, incredibly readable and equally cool. Around that dial is built an otherwise pretty straightforward diver. The 41mm stainless steel bumper bar case is solid enough to survive the

Scurfa’s Treasure Seeker is a diver designed by an actual professional diver, Paul Scurfield, and features an intriguing dial and an automatic movement for the generous price of just £442

rigours of the ocean – with a few sharp rocks thrown in – while the five-link bracelet sits comfortable on the wrist with Rolex undertones. It’s also water resistant to 300m, so well suited to professional diving. It’s a workhorse case and is therefore fittingly paired with the Miyota 9015 calibre automatic movement, solid if relatively unfinished. Not that you’d notice; the Treasure Seeker’s solid caseback has plenty to look at without any sapphire crystal. The rear engraving of a working saturation diver was created by Jock Patterson, himself a diver and award-winning artist. Paul still hasn’t given up his day job. Despite running a successful watch brand, he still spends a solid month every now and then living underwater. If there’s one watch though that’s set to ensure he needs to surface a damn sight more often, it’s the Treasure Seeker – especially when the lens of accessibility is applied. Despite serious specs, an intriguing dial and an automatic movement, the Treasure Seeker will set you back just £442. Though you might be in for a wait if you’re after the white version. Apparently it’s not just our favourite. Find out more at scurfawatches.com

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IN FOCUS — tribus

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IN FOCUS — tribus

A FAMILY AFFAIR When Tribus first stepped onto the scene in 2020 they did so with a serious attitude. If the surname Ward is familiar to you, it’s likely because of watchmaker Christopher Ward and the eponymous British brand he founded – and is now no longer a part of. Tribus founders James, Jonny and Jake Ward are his sons. That’s a horological tribe if ever there was one. Indeed, the name Tribus comes the idea of tribalism – and not the kind that includes dodgy tattoos, but the use of personal and cultural heritage to solidify our place in the modern world, without being afraid to challenge traditions. The idea of creating an international community with watchmaking at its heart is shown by Tribus’ work encouraging support in a range of areas including sport, music and charity. When the brand was still taking its first steps they took the huge leap of becoming Liverpool FC’s official watch partner, a dream come true for the Merseyside brand. Since then they’ve gone on to support other teams and are currently working closely with Brentford. Tribus’ home turf connection is also maintained by their collaboration with Jamie Carragher’s 23 Foundation, helping children across the world. However, it’s not just in the UK and Switzerland (where the brand is based) that benefits from this tribal community. Their partnership with 303 Squadron helps to raise awareness of Europe’s forgotten soldiers who lost their lives in World War II, particularly the Polish air force’s 303 Squadron who played a vital role in the Battle of Britain but were, depressingly, denied the right to participate in the British Victory March in 1946. To coincide, they took the tried-and-tested Bremont route and produced a special edition pilot’s watch, the TRI-05, from the remnants of downed World War II planes. That leads us very nicely onto the watchmaking side of things. Their watches are built around four collections, handily (if not particularly imaginatively) called TRI-01, TRI-02, TRI-03 and TRI-04. However, while each of the models are individual there is one thing that unites them, which is the fact that all their movements are COSC certified chronometers. So the base level of technical mechanics is well assured. TRI-01 is the most understated piece they produce from a technical standpoint, with a simple time only function with a small seconds subdial at six o’clock. That being said, the dials are available in numerous bright and bold colours, including yellow, salmon and teal, as well as more subdued khaki and black. The 41mm diameter case is made

from brushed steel, with options for a gunmetal PVD coating. Adding another complication to the mix, the TRI-02 is also known as the GMT 3 Timezone. The case is virtually identical to the TRI-01 with the exception of an additional pusher, and the same material options are available. However, the dial is far more complex with the addition of a 24-hour chapter ring, 24-hour timer and GMT hand, all presented in a black and yellow colour scheme. The TRI-03 adds a second subdial into the mix with a vertical bi-compax layout consisting of a power reserve indicator at 12 and a second time zone at six. It owes more to the TRI-01 for its style with the return of a wider choice in dial colours, despite having more in common with TRI-02. Unlike the previous watches, this one doesn’t house a Sellita calibre, instead opting for a Soprod C115 with a 42-hour power reserve, and it of course has COSC chronometer certification. Lastly, the TRI-04 is a sports version of the TRI-03. It has a radically altered aesthetic due to the bolder lines and more impactful colour schemes of black and red or black and orange, both of which are full of contrast. The result is that they’re far more reminiscent of a classic dashboard instrument and generally have more of a badass attitude. Tribus is still in the early days as these things go, but from their own family tribe to the number of watch lovers sitting up and taking notice – either thanks to Tribus’ partnerships or the innate quality of the watches – theirs is a tribe that’s set to keep growing. Find out more at tribus-watches.com

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Tribus was founded in 2020 from the roots of a watchmaking luminary by James, Jonny and Jake Ward; the sons of celebrated British watchmaker, Christopher Ward

IN FOCUS — cyrus

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IN FOCUS — cyrus

ROLL OF THE DICE

Forget Rattrapante; why split the seconds when you can just have two of them? The humble chronograph is a core complication, the kind that most watchmakers worth the name have dabbled in at some point. Whether it’s bi-compax, tri-compax, flyback or monpopusher, the basis are pretty much the same. Then, however, there’s the rattrapante, which is a big step up. Considered one of the grand complications, the split-seconds chronograph is a serious feat of fine watchmaking, one that’s surprisingly enough becoming a touch more common. It’s designed to allow the timing of two different events, generally lap times or the like, which can be useful. Cyrus on the other hand has taken a much different route, and one that might just make that kind of timing even easier. Founded in 2010, Cyrus might be relatively young as these things go but has proven to have the horological chops to go after the big leagues. The independent brand – and their watchmaker, the award-winning, near-legendary Jean-Francois Mojon – has been making some big waves and the Klepcys DICE may just be their tsunami. DICE stands for Double Independent Chronograph Evolution. You can take off that last word and get a pretty clear inkling as to what the new watch is. Rather than a single mechanism that splits, the DICE offers two different chronograph complications. So, rather than allowing the timing of two events, one after the other – i.e. laps – it means you can time two different events at the same time. Want to know the exact time taken by two different racers? The DICE is the one. Otherwise, for a single racer you can swap between chronographs each lap, noting down the times and resetting one chronograph each time round. It might not be as visually slick as a rattrapante, but in some ways it is indeed more useful. Visually, it would be easy to turn the double chronograph concept into an aesthetic mess, so to keep things simple, each hand is colour coded red or blue, corresponding to which of the twin monopusher crowns operates it. The 30-minute timer at three o’clock follows the same system for its double hands, counterbalanced on the other side of the dial by a small seconds subdial. Because this is Cyrus and Cyrus just can’t help with excessive haute horology flair, the dial is open worked. On the one hand, it’s a treat to be able to see what’s going on underneath. On the other, it makes it a bit harder to read. Still, the bright blue

Cyrus’s DICE (Double Independent Chronograph Evolution) offers two different chronograph complications, meaning that it can time two different events at the same time, rather than allowing the timing of two events, one after the other

Cyrus might be relatively young as these things go but has proven to have the horological chops to go after the big leagues. and red colours do go some way to alleviating that and they’ve picked out key components like the double column wheels in corresponding colours to highlight them. Additionally, the arrangement of components provides a better dial side view of the chronograph mechanism than most skeletons. All that chronographic goodness is contained within the Klepcys’ signature cushion case, measuring 42mm in diameter and feeling a touch smaller and more wearable than we’ve gotten used to from Cyrus. It’s available in polished titanium or with a black DLC coating, which really makes the red and blue of the hands pop. And of course, both sides are adorned with one of the twin monopusher crowns. The calibre, which is so prominently displayed, is the CYR718. It’s made from 443 components with almost half of those being dedicated to the double chronograph module alone. And as it’s on display there’s your usual assortment of classic high end finishes such as snailing, microblasted PVD, rhodium plating and sunray finishing. With only 50 of each case variant available and given the complexity and rarity of the function (it has seldom been seen since 1873), it’ll be no surprise that you’ll have to enquire if you want the price. Find out more at cyrus-watches.ch

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BACK — microbrand corner

MICROBRAND

CORNER

THE SPECS

• 40mm blasted titanium case with 300m water resistance • Miyota 9015 automatic movement • $500 USD (approx. £360) on a limited pre-order basis • arken.uk

The latest and greatest from the ever-creative world of independent microbrands edited by: THOR SVABOE

Arken Instrumentum

This battle-ready tool is a proper box-ticker, and what looks large is in fact rather svelte at 40mm with an 11.5mm thickness. The strong debut of UK-based Arken Watch Company is exactly what you need if you desire modern tool-tastic minimalism, rather than flashy vintage. With an integrated bracelet hinting at a VC Overseas after a testing stay at boot camp, Arken takes an impressive step up from so-so end links and tacked on bracelets, leaving us to wonder what their next chapter will entail. With a broad and glove-grippable diver’s bezel and two different pops of Swiss lume, this might just be the best value titanium bracelet 300m tool watch available this autumn. arken.uk

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BACK — microbrand corner

Brew Metric

Disco-flash seventies with colours on the vibrant end of the scale, what’s not to love?. The US brand Brew understands our desire for pop with their new Metric, and for the wrist-shy there’s a crisp monochrome silver version with quiet touches of blue. The black dial chronograph is where it’s at though, with its groovy green and yellow minute track setting the tone for a mad dial of offset and irreverently placed colours and registers that shouldn’t, but do work. Fitted into a delightful square-cular cushion case on a groovy bracelet, this is the funkiest 36mm micro of the year. brew-watches.com

THE SPECS

• 36mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Seiko VK 68 mecha-quartz movement • $395 USD (approx. £290) • brew-watches.com

Jaques Bianchi JB 200

With a smooth turtle shell of a case, the rubber strapped Jaques Bianchi cannot be mistaken for anything but a vintage-inpired monochrome tool. For those unaccustomed to the wave of diver’s watches washing over us in 2021, there’s a large drawing of a SCUBA diver on the crisp dial. This is one of many quirky French touches, in what is more than just another desk diver’s tool. This is not nouveau retro, but rather the resurfacing (pun intended) of the eighties JB200, as used by the French Navy. This project is overseen by the octogenarian Jaques Bianchi himself, a Marseilles legend. Pedigree box properly ticked. jaquesbianchi.com THE SPECS • 42mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Seiko NH35 automatic movement • €594 (approx. £510) on a soft tropic rubber strap • jaquesbianchi.com

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Feynman Fjord

Feynman’s been making some damn interesting watches of late. In 2020, there was the Cove with its intriguing lumed detailing; then there was the Coalesce with its peacocks and peonies, offering dive and dress sensibilities respectively. Now the Singaporean brand’s taking on the explorer’s watch, using the same rugged silhouette as the Cove, now with the addition of an inner compass bezel. Add in a few icy colourways inspired by their namesake natural phenomena and the Fjord becomes the kind of off-kilter, colourful approach to watchmaking that’s made Feynman’s name.

THE SPECS

• 40mm stainlesss teel case with 200m water resistance • ETA2895-2 calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • PRICE TBC • feynman.watch

feynman.watch

Sequent Elektron

It’s not often you come across a micro smartwatch; the tech investments are generally too high for a small, agile, entrepreneurial brand. Yet here we are, with the Elektron, a self-charging, hybrid smartwatch. It has all the smartwatch loveliness that gets fitness junkies hot under the collar, housed in a case that’ll intrigue even the most willful luddites among watch lovers – and in titanium no less. Somehow the Elektron has only eight parts and no screws, yet still uses a rotor to charge its already substantial battery life. I doubt it’ll convert any Apple die-hards to something a little more aesthetically horological, but for those of us looking for a smart watch in both looks and tech, this could be it. THE SPECS

• 42.10mm grade 2 titanium case with 50m water resistance • Self-charging smartwatch movement with standby of 2 years • From £296 currently on indiegogo.com • sequentworld.com

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sequentworld.com

BACK — microbrand corner

J. Ciro

Series III Chronograph If you’re looking for a little colour in your life then you’ve come to the right place. The latest collection from cufflink and watch designer J. Ciro has that in spades, all wrapped up in a distinctly sporty chronograph. The third run of the brand’s stopwatch

timepieces, the newest iterations are sleeker, more modern and in some incredibly eye-catching colour combinations. While the more performance minded among you might opt for the racing red or yellow with black DLC cases and matching straps, you can’t go wrong with the classic white, particularly when it’s on a sky blue strap. Or you know, you could get them both. At $275, the meca-quartz equipped watches are nothing if not accessible. jcirowatches.com

THE SPECS • 42mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Seiko VK67 Meca-Quartz movement • $275 (approx. £200) • jcirowatches.com

THE SPECS

• 40mm bead blasted stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Seiko SII NE15 automatic movement • $845 USD (approx. £620) • tornek-rayville.us

TornekRayville

One from the history books produced by the well known Mk II Watches, and for good reasons recognisably Fifty Fathoms-esque. Just like the Speedmaster won the US government gauntlet for Space-worthiness, the Fifty Fathoms was deemed best suited for the subsea world, beating a certain submariner in the process. Meant to survive Vietnam war missions on the wrists of Navy divers and demolition teams (now known as SEALs), put through its paces the Blancpain was the sole survivor. But, the Buy American act, meant ordering a batch of Blancpains was out of the question, and importer Allen V.Tornek cheekily circumvented the regulations with the relabelled Tornek-Rayville TR-900, Rayville being Blancpain’s Villeret home twisted as a phonetic anagram. Most of the approximate 1,000 TRs were destroyed after missions due to the radioactive lume, and so the myth was born (go Google it). Bill Yao of Mk II acquired the name some years back, and this is their crisp recreation of the Tornek-Rayville, the reimagined TR-660. A pure fifties skindiver with nothing but pure function and legibility, and of such a balance in proportions it seems to straddle the invisible line between vintage tough and a function-focused modern minimalism. Pure monochrome and silky matte of case, its bead blasted 40mm look is one of perfection simplified, and judging by the output of Mk II, will feel exactly as Leica-like as it looks on its thick Nato woven nylon strap. tornek-rayville.us TR-660, an icon resurrected

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stripped daytona

The Daytona is a legendary watch for relatively good reasons. It’s been the ultimate racing watch ever since Paul Newman turned it into an icon and has remained one of the single most in-demand timepieces in the world. Seriously, try getting hold of one. And yet for many a collector, their appreciation of the Daytona doesn’t quite match it’s prestige. Sure, it’s a lovely chronograph, but it’s missing something, that little spark that turns it from a collectible into a grail piece. That’s where Skeleton Concept comes in. Their name’s pretty self-explanatory. Skeleton Concept specialise in, well, skeletonising watches. In the case of their custom piece for legendary Cameroonian striker Samuel Eto’o, that watch was a stainless steel Daytona. The studio did what they did best and the result was extraordinary: a colourful, openworked Daytona complete with a black carbon bezel, a high performance take on the racing watch that’s far more modern than anything produced by Rolex proper. Yet for some collectors, even that wasn’t enough. I mean, if you’re going for a custom Rolex you may as well push the boat out as far as it’ll go. And so Skeleton Concept have now reinterpreted the Samuel Eto’o Daytona in this beautiful new gold version. The dial is the same as the steel version, with subdial rings with green, red and yellow indexes – the flag colours of the Republic of Cameroon floating above the fully visible Rolex 4130 calibre underneath. The forged carbon bezel is similar too, except that what was steel previously is now gold – and the difference it makes is extraordinary. The precious metal transforms a previously understated (as these things go) watch into a luxury statement piece. It’s still as readable as ever, still a serious racing watch with a serious movement underneath. While Skeleton Concept have done their mandated work on that movement too, it’s lost

Words:

Sam Kessler

Skeleton crew

A STUNNING CUSTOMISED DAYTONA IN HONOUR OF A LEGENDARY CAMEROONIAN STRIKER

none of the accuracy and reliability on which Rolex have built their crown. This isn’t the only skeletonised Daytona out there of course; it’s one of the most popular ways to customise the racing watch. Yet few studios have actually managed to do it with the expertise of Skeleton Concept. After all, it’s their name. To discover the Samuel Eto’o Gold Daytona Concept – alongside Skeleton Concept’s other

A special striker deserves a special watch, so the gold Samuel Eto’o Daytona includes subdial rings in the colours of the Cameroon flag, a visible Rolex 4130 calibre, and an extraordinary gold forged carbon bezel

impressive designs – visit skeletonconcept.com

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watches and accessories

O r a c le

RECOMMENDS WHAT’S ON OUR SHOPPING LIST AND WHY

CARAPAZ

ARTEM STRAPS – SAILCLOTH STRAPS

BAVARIAN WATCH – ROYAL BLUE BAVARIAN Germany has a rich watchmaking history, especially around Glashütte, but Bavaria isn’t to be discounted from the conversation either. Bavarian Watch has been singing the watchmaking praises of the region since 2018 and create a variety of stylish dials and straps for their timepiece available through Kickstarter. The 40mm stainless steel watch stands out for its large lugs, which look great on powerful wrists without overwhelming thinner ones. We particularly like the Royal Bavarian Blue piece combined with Summer Sunset strap. €160 (approx. £135), for more information visit kick.bavarian-watch.com

It’s an old adage that if you can’t find the thing you’re looking for, build it yourself. This is the philosophy that led to the creation of Artem Straps when the founders were thwarted in their search for high quality sailcloth watch straps. Sailcloth, whether it’s made from genuine cloth or synthetic and leather alternatives, can be stiff and uncomfortable – making Artem’s focus for their straps flexibility and comfort, a mission they have more than succeeded at. Artem Sailcloth Watch strap $85 (approx. £60) from artemstraps.com

CuleM – Lights GMT Blue

Everyone needs to play a part in protecting the environment and the watchmaker CuleM has already embraced their role – planting over 15,000 trees in Madagascar with a pledge to plant 100 more for every timepiece they sell. Their watches are designed to capture their global outlook, with all of them being GMT timers depicting a vision of the world. The Lights GMT reinforces our global community by depicting an image of the world which, at night, lights up with pinpoints of light signifying the major cities of the world. CuleM Portal GMT Gold £995, available from culemwatches.com

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Carapaz is a specialised Swiss leather design company based in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, the home of many top watchmakers. Their watch cases have helped to reinvent the way watches can be stored safely for travelling with the introduction of a unique rail system a few years ago, which holds the precious timepieces in place. The integrated rail technology and stand feature make them the ideal cases for travel, storage, or display, with models that can hold between one and eight watches. They’re available in a variety of colours in high-quality soft leather. Three-Watch Case £240, available at carapaz.com and thewatchspy.net

Hermès Apple Watch Series 7 Straps Hermès have been creating luxury straps for Apple Watches for a while now, using popular designs and motifs from their jewellery collections. Now the Parisian heritage brand is keeping up with the tech giant with a collection of new straps for the latest Series 7. They include the Circuit H in a trio of three cool colours and the Gourmette Double Tour, all in the exquisite leather that’s made Hermès a luxury giant. Who says the Apple Watch isn’t a luxury timepiece? Launching later this year at hermes.com

style

Ross Oliver – Bridge-bit Loafers Ross Oliver is a fresh name to the arena of luxury footwear, bringing a new vision to the UK scene. Their high quality Cactus leather loafers and boots are both stylish and sustainable, crafted by specialist artisans in the UK. They are also finalists at the renowned Draper awards in two categories, best new footwear brand and footwear designer of the year. Their superb Bridge-bit Loafers, available in multiple colours, took over a year to develop and feature a handmade brass buckle inspired by Clifton suspension bridge. Bridge-bit Loafer in Navy £240, available at rossoliver.uk

Saint Laurent Rive Droite New Era Cap

CONNOLLY 007 CAPSULE Connolly have been producing luxury leather and driving equipment for over 140 years, making them well and truly a British icon. This autumn they’ve partnered up with another British icon in James Bond to release a capsule inspired by the superspy himself and his Aston Martin DB5. Spearheading the capsule are a Navy Blue Mixed Linen Giubbino Jacket and an Oatmeal Linen Shirt, both pieces are inspired by the new movie, No Time To Die. Navy Blue Mixed Linen Giubbino Jacket £490, available from connollyengland.com

The second collaboration between Saint Laurent and New Era, this 9Forty black cap combines the signature American baseball cap style headwear with a colourful Saint Laurent logo in a limited edition. New Era has been producing hats and headwear since the 1920s, and yet in that 100 year history they have always stayed relevant and their collaborations with top designers are testament to that. The Limited Edition hat is available in select YSL boutiques

VALENTINA KARELLAS – TILNEY BEANIE It’s full steam ahead towards winter so refreshing your knitwear is a must. Valentina Karellas is an independent knitwear specialist handmaking products in London, the latest collection is called Neutral Fluid. It’s a gender neutral collection suitable for anyone and includes items like the cashmere Tilney Beanie Plus, a black beanie hat with upcycled silk linings in a variety of patterns and styles. There are also an assortment of jumpers, jackets, scarves and more. £65, available from valentinakarellas.com

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RAY-BAN – RAY-BAN STORIES In partnership with Facebook, Ray-Ban have developed their first pair of smart glasses, providing new ways to capture the world around you. Dual 5MP cameras are built into the frame, enabling hands free photos and video while inbuilt speakers allow you to listen to your music without needing separate earphones. There are six colour and lens combinations available from classy black to bold blue, in clear and sunglasses variants with the option to add a prescription. Learn more at ray-ban.com

grooming

Herbivore – Lapis Tansy Face Oil The Lapis Tansy Face Oil from Herbivore is an award winning natural skincare product named after the elegant blue stone that has been used in jewellery since the time of Ancient Egypt. The blue colouration comes from its key ingredient blue tansy, it also contains Azulene, which soothes irritated skin. While it is designed to help with sore or blemished skin, it also provides a helpful hydration boost. £52.72, available from herbivorebotanicals.com

THE INKEY LIST PHA TONER Skin blemishes and acne are two sure-fire ways to have your day ruined, but fortunately there are plenty of toners and cleansers out there that can help. The Inkey List is a cosmetics brand that are unpretentious and open about their products, there are no fancy names, just ingredients. The PHA Toner uses polyhydroxy acid (PHA) to help treat your skin in a gentle yet effective way to prevent blemishes, when used twice a day. £9.99, available from theinkeylist.com

Battle Rhythm Beard Co. – Big Bastard Collection Battle Rhythm Beard Co. are a bombastic and characterful brand delivering vegan and vegetarian-friendly grooming products for men, with a portion of each sale going to veteran and first responder charities. Not only will their beard butter and soap make you look good but they also have great names like Spitfire and M-72 and feeling cool is a big part of style. If your beard is particularly wild, they offer The Big Bastard collection that contains everything you need to get it under control. Big Bastard £65, available at battlerhythmbeardco.com

AMAFFI POWER SCEPTRE WILD – NATURAL DEODORANT CASE

In the complete image of true gentleman, he is never without a stick or cane, but in the modern world that’s somewhat an outdated notion. Instead, how about a power sceptre from the perfume masters at Amaffi, who produce a rose and patchouli scent packaged in a characterful bottle in the shape of a royal sceptre, after all, who is more gentlemanly than a royal? £5,500, available from amaffi.com

The cosmetics industry produces a lot of waste, just think about the amount of packaging that gets thrown away every time you run out of deodorant, toothpaste or anything else. To help reduce this quantity of waste, Wild has created a high quality aluminium deodorant tube that is refillable with their natural deodorant. Reinforcing the idea that it’s a long term product you can also personalise the case. £12, available from wearewild.com

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drinks

DEKANTA – KYOYO WORLD BLENDED WHISKY Kyoyo is the Japanese word for sharing and it is a philosophy of sharing resources and experience that has led to dekanta’s inaugural World Blended Whisky. The liquid is a blend of six different whiskies, three 26-year-old ones from Scotland and three young ones from Japan. While Japan has a rich history in whisky, Dekanta want to celebrate up and coming brewers and distillers, they are themselves celebrating their six year anniversary. Limited to 260 bottles, available at dekanta.com

Macallan – Double Cask 30 Year Old

Pineau des Charentes

The Double Cask 30 Year Old is the latest single malt whisky to join Macallan’s lauded double cask collection. To celebrate its release, they have collaborated with the American artist Erik Madigan Heck on a trio of images, symbolising the balance, richness and complexity of the liquid. On the nose, it has an aroma of sweet honeycomb, toffee and red apple, which transitions into the flavours of cinnamon, Madagascan vanilla and dried fruits. $4,000 (approx. £2,900) find out more at themacallan.com

Pineau is typically a young wine, which is what makes this Pineau des Charentes from The Last Drop Distillers so extraordinary because it has been aged for 100 years. The story of how it was discovered is like a fairy-tale, as the cask was found hidden behind a rubble wall during house renovations in 2017. Miraculously, instead of spoiling in any capacity it has matured into a unique drink that retains its freshness. Only 382 bottles will be available. £600, available from lastdropdistillers.com

COMTE DE GRASSE 44°N GIN Located in the perfume capital of the world, Grasse, Comte de Grasse have access to a wide array of high quality aromatic ingredients for their botanical flavoured 44°N Gin. Rose centifolia, mimosa, jasmine and lavender all play their part in a unique distillation process that involves methods inspired by the perfume trade, including ultrasonic maceration and CO2 extraction. The result is a liquid that instantly evokes a sense of the sun drenched Mediterranean. £70, available from 44gin.com

JUSTERINI & BROOKS – THE ART OF COLLECTING RARE WHISKY Earlier this year the trend for online lessons and experiences boomed due to the global lockdown and that trend is set to continue with amazing experiences on offer such as the Justerini & Brooks video course on The Art of Collecting Rare Whisky. Not only will you have access to a three-part video master class but also you’ll receive four sample whiskies from Mortlach, Talisker, Johnnie Walker and The Cally. The Art of Collecting Rare Whisky Masterclass £500, for more information visit justerinis.com

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END — i feel the need...

by MICHAEL SONSINO

M OVIE WATC H

Top Gun As our style shoot this issue might hint at, we’re huge fans of Top Gun and, what with the next worryingly overdue instalment being pushed back to spring, we’ve been rewatching the original. Many, many times. It was the film that cemented Cruise as the megastar he is, long before he started freaking people out with Scientology and is one hell of a fun film besides.

And as ever, we have our eyes peeled for all the filmic wrist candy we can see. So, what does the greatest (if not exactly most realistic) aviation films of all time give its star to wear? Well, you might assume an IWC. The Swiss watch brand has been using the Top Gun name for years now to denote their military-themed pilots chronographs, so you’d be excused for thinking this is where they got it from. Unfortunately, they took the name from the same place as the film, namely the intense flight academy most of the action takes place at and, while we’re sure they’d love to be in the new Maverick, they actually have nothing to do with the (now) franchise. No, instead it’s a timepiece you’ll likely not have come across before: the Porsche Design Orfina 7176. Orfina was founded in 1922, so they’re actually a seriously established name. They’re better known though for their pieces for Porsche Design and the one shown off in Top Gun is an eighties classic. It’s a fitting watch, powered by an ultra-precise Lemania movement and the kind of under-the-radar pick you don’t expect from a massive film like Top Gun. Time will tell of course whether Maverick follows suit. Honestly, given the fact that IWC produce watches specifically for Top Gun instructors these days, it would be surprising if they don’t get some screen time. Still, it would be good to see Cruise wearing the very same watch, if only for continuity.

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Oracle Time - Issue 76 - The Adventure Issue

Articles inside

MOVIE WATCH

MICROBRAND CORNER

UNSUNG VINTAGE HERO

IN FOCUS

FIRE IN HIS BELLY

THE FINAL FRONTIER

MAN OF INFLUENCE

WATCH REVIEWS

007 STYLE

TIME TRAVEL

GEARING UP

ASK THE ORACLE

IT’S ADVENTURE TIME

OT MAGAZINE / ISSUE

UNPACKING THE EXPLORER II

AFICIONADO

CONQUERING EVEREST