Oracle Time - Issue 77 - Hedonism Issue by Oracle Time Magazine

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .77

Style & Substance From

GUCCI The Hedonism Issue COCKTAILS | MAXIMALISM | CHRISTMAS

ISSUE 77

5.95

ORACLE TIME #77

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Fraser Vincent Watch: Gucci 25H Tourbillon

The season of indulgence is here and as the Christmas parties get into full swing it’s time for our Hedonism issue, a celebration of all things gloriously over-the-top, epicurean and eye-catching, ready for the Champagne-soaked days ahead. No watchmaking complication is more OTT than the not-so-humble tourbillon, a horological showpiece if ever there was one, and central to our cover star this issue, the Gucci 25H Tourbillon. The fabulous Italian fashion brand’s spared no expense in their grand arrival to the fine watchmaking stage, combining a shiny new in-house movement with their own typically Italian flair for design. It’s both style and substance, as you can see for yourself on page 47. Other than tourbillons, you can’t get flashier in the watch world than diamonds and precious stones, but with ever more inventive ways of attaching them to the metal, we thought we’d delve a little deeper into the various types of gem setting available in the watch world. If you don’t know your pave from your mystery setting, then read up on page 40. More is more, after all. In fact, that’s a theme that’s also running through our style section this issue. We have the inimitable Stephen Doig delving into true maximalist fashion from the likes of McQueen, Versace and Dolce & Gabbana, a feast for the eyes on page 76. The Style Manifesto showcases six brands flying the flag for hedonism on page 68, while the Wardrobe Champion this issue is possibly the most indulgent piece of clothing a man can own: silk pyjamas. Rather than a style shoot this issue however, we’ve opted for something a little more in keeping with the party season – cocktails. Ever wondered what drink matches perfectly with a rainbow-set Royal Oak? How about a Patek Philippe-level tipple or something to match an Art Deco-style gold timepiece? Well, the guys at award-winning cocktail bars Ever After and Happiness Forgets helped us weigh in on the subject. Check out the results on page 53. Oh and if all those cocktails have you worried about nursing a hangover midway through party season, our Grooming Cabinet on page 72 has all the cures you could need to keep looking Dorian Gray fresh. Unfortunately, it’s not just partying you have to look forward to over the next couple of months. It’s also about time you got your Christmas shopping started. Seriously, no matter how much you try and bury your head – and I know, I’ve tried – social contracts compel you. Still, it shouldn’t be any harder than it needs to be, so we’ve once again put together our annual seasonal gift guide on page 87 – separated into interests to make gift-giving that bit less of a minefield. Whether your loved ones are into cutting-edge tech, epicurean tastes or yes, even watches, we have you covered. You’re welcome. Finally, if you need an antidote from all that lovely, lovely consumerism, we got face to face with the F1 legend that is Lewis Hamilton. Despite being the most successful racer in history, hedonism seems the furthest thing from his mind – except perhaps when it comes to fighter jets. Seriously. Read the interview on page 36. And as ever, stay safe, stay sane and enjoy this issue. Sam Kessler, Editor

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ORACLE TIME #77

CONTRIBUTORS WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk

Shane C. Kurup

Style Editor-At-Large Shane is a men’s style editor who has worked for a range of leading titles, including The MR PORTER Journal, Men’s Health UK, Esquire US, PORT, The Telegraph and Wallpaper*. He’s rather partial to a jazzy silk shirt, wide-leg trousers and a gin and Dubonnet (or three).

Jessica Punter

Jessica Punter is a stylist and grooming editor who’s work has appeared in MR PORTER, GQ, Gentlemen’s Journal, Esquire and Sunday Times Style. The only watches she owns are her late grandmother’s and an Hermès Médor (in gold, of course) that really needs to get out more.

Nick Carvell

A lifelong fan of double denim (even triple on occasion), Nick started his career as the launch social media editor of MR PORTER before leaving to become associate style editor of British GQ, then editor of London men’s magazine The Jackal.

JUNIOR COPYWRITER

Michael Sonsino michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent Kirsty Illingworth kirsty@opulentmedia.co.uk DIRECTOR

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk MANAGING EDITOR / CO-FOUNDER

is men’s style editor at The Telegraph. A Central St Martins alumnus, he’s worked at Harper’s Bazaar and MR PORTER. An Italianophile and lover of all things Dries Van Noten, Stephen’s ever-growing evening slipper collection currently runs to over 30 pairs.

Ian Taylor is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers. He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped.

danmobbs@hotmail.com

JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Stephen Doig

Aidy Smith

SUB EDITOR

Dan Mobbs

Ian is a journalist who splits his time between fashion and science, and therefore loves a tailored lab coat. He’s the former editor of FashionBeans.com and AskMen. com, and has also worked for Men’s Health, MR PORTER and Esquire. It’s his 40th birthday next year and, in case she’s reading, his wife has promised him a Rolex.

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7875 4615

George Parker george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7875 4616 SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Phil Peachey Phil.peachey@opulentmedia.co.uk 0203 985 1414 OT MAGAZINE is published monthly by Opulent Media 020 7875 4615

Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

ORACLE TIME #77

CONTENTS

OT M AG A ZINE / ISSUE 77

18 — AFICIONADO

47 — A NUMBER’S GAME

Discover all the latest on our radar and what should be in your basket this month

Aiming high in its centenary year, Gucci is celebrating with a retrograde timepiece and a specific trio of numbers

28 — NEWS

A round-up of what’s going on in the world of luxury and haute horology

36 — FACETIME WITH LEWIS

OT sits down with Lewis Hamilton to discuss watches, milestones, and fighter jets

40 — ASK THE ORACLE

Breaking down the gem settings for your iced-out watch

Between a solid in-house movement and a cool, seventies-esque design, the fashion titan has definitely made a statement It’s A Number’s Game — p47

ORACLE TIME #77

CONTENTS

72 — YOUR GROOMING CABINET Party on with our range of products to help you save face this festive season

76 — INTRODUCING MAXIMALIST MAN

How brands are bucking the less-is-more mantra and sprinkling a sartorial stardust

87 — OT GIFT GUIDE Thank us later for saving Christmas with gift ideas for all your friends and family

109 — WATCH REVIEWS OT gets hands on with Omega and Allemano timepieces 87

118 — DELICIOUS STOCKING STUFFERS

Spread a little festive joy with our seasonal wine and spirits

123 — PARADISE FOUND

We visit the picturesque and epicurean island paradise of Anantara Kihavah

133 — FINEST FIZZ

Even more decadent than a fine vintage Champagne, it’s the incredible Hors-Série 1971 123

Ever saved someone from a burning building? William Wood’s upcycled straps have OT Gift Guide — p87

53 — HAPPY HOUR

We pursue a life of hedonism with gloriously ostentatious watches and strong cocktails

68 — STYLE MANIFESTO

Unleash your inner libertine with our choice of AW21’s most decadent threads

139 — UNSUNG VINTAGE HERO

Rolex doesn’t have many historical mysteries, but there is one aerobatic exception

143 — IN FOCUS

A vintage doctor’s watch, a bare bones brand, and a racer with pedigree are in the spotlight

151 – MICROBRAND CORNER

Introducing the freshest timepieces from the world of small scale independents

160 – MOVIE WATCH

Having fun with the venomous Jet in the latest Tom Hardy Spiderman spin-off

RAISING THE SPECTRE

It’s no big surprise to see another car maker hop on the allelectric bandwagon, but Rolls-Royce? Well, after announcing that they were aiming to be fully electric by 2030, the marque is now road testing the new Spectre. It’s still a couple of years off – the car’s slated for 2023 – but from what we’ve seen of the phrase-bedecked concept (which we’ve been assured is no prototype but the actual car) it’s a looker. Will it be the best electric car in the world? Who knows, but it’ll probably be among the priciest. Deliveries will begin end of 2023, rolls-roycemotorcars.com

FRONT — aficionado

edited by: MICHAEL SONSINO

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

FRONT — aficionado

HIGH FASHION MEETS HIGH FUNCTION

Continuing their run of outdoor ready drops, Adidas’ avant garde label Y-3 is leaning heavily on the more technical side of design for AW21. Combining Yohji Yamamoto’s signature look and hybrid sneaker/boot construction with a GORE-TEX lining and Continental rubber outsole, the new Y-3 TERREX SWIFT R3 GTX are about as rugged as you can get. Released in two colourways – black with orange hints or white with a bit more orange across the board – they’re available now. adidas.co.uk

FRONT — aficionado

TO THE SKIES

A new Moser & Cie timepiece, a new watch for our wishlist. Where previous releases have focused on the sports luxe stylings of the Streamliner though, the new Dual Time Heritage opts for a pilot aesthetic, with oversized numerals and equally large crown, all topped off with a beautiful burgundy dial. It might appear a little simple for Moser, but the HMC 809 movement inside’s no slouch. We need it on our wrists, now. CHF 19,900 (approx. £15,725), h-moser.com

FRONT — aficionado

RUM MEETS RAP

One of the world’s biggest grime artists and most important rum distilleries come together in a new limited edition, simply titled Rum of Skepta. If that doesn’t sound like the collaboration you’ve been waiting for, you need to try the liquid itself, with tropical fruits, cacao and tobacco, and a full-bodied finish; balanced and expressive. Throw in a few cultural links to Nigeria and you have a pretty interesting prospect that’s a cut above your usual sugar cane spirit. £85, available at Harvey Nichols

FRONT — aficionado

AUTOMOTIVE NEOCLASSICISM

Is there any car more evocative than the Ferrari Testarossa? Kavinsky would say no, and we’d have to agree. Now the legendary motor is being given the full restomod treatment, courtesy of Italian studio Officine Fioravanti. While the car’s kept its Miami Vice good looks, it’s now quicker and lighter than ever before, packing more of a punch under the hood with a new top speed of 201mph. It does however still have a 1980s-style car phone so you can make all the Nightcalls you want. officinefioravanti.com

FRONT — aficionado

GOOD TASTE, IN WHISKY

Skepta’s not the only one getting in on the limited-edition spirit game; Parisian fashion label Balmain have dived on in, too. With a pair of bottles paying homage to some of Balmain’s classic designs, it’s definitely one of the glitziest with plenty of gold and chains. The whisky itself is a cross-channel affair too, finishing Chivas’ 15-yearold blend in French cognac casks. It’s a fashion statement in a bottle, with the first drop already available and the second coming this month. £160, available at Selfridges

FRONT — aficionado

LV AW 2021

Once again Virgil Abloh has knocked it out of the park with the fall collection for luxury powerhouse Louis Vuitton, this time by taking inspiration from a 1914 greetings card written by Gaston-Louis Vuitton. Niche? Sure, but a mix of formal silhouettes and an urban twang in its reinterpretation of Abloh’s own print makes for an eye-catching dash of nonchalance. The capsule includes 3D-printed leather jackets, hoodies, cargo pants and denim Bermuda short, but for us this denim trucker jacket in blue and white monogrammed print is the standout. Props if you can get away with the matching trousers, too. Trucker jacket £1,910, uk.louisvuitton.com

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS

CHARITY CENTRAL TO ONLY WATCH 2021 The Only Watch Auction 2021 takes place this month on the 6th. It is one of the most individual and exciting watch auctions on the calendar with watchmakers creating one-of-one limited edition timepieces specifically for the event. As much as 99% of proceeds from the auction go to projects around the globe funding vital research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy, a life limiting genetic disorder.

This year the auction is bigger than ever with giants like Richard Mille standing shoulder to shoulder with up and coming watchmakers like Baltic. While charity is a central focus of the event, each of the watchmakers also embrace the spirit of creativity that accompanies it, leading to some of the most exciting and Avant Garde designs of the year. Just look at MB&F’s HM10 Panda that is going up for auction, it’s harder to get more characterful. Find out more at onlywatch.com

The watchmakers embrace the spirit of creativity, leading to some exciting Avant Garde designs

FRONT — world news

REGÉ-JEAN PAGE BRINGS ATTITUDE TO LONGINES “Elegance is an attitude,” and Netflix’s phenomenally successful regency-era romance series Bridgerton has both elegance and attitude aplenty. It’s fitting then that its leading man Regé-Jean Page has now joined Longines as their latest brand ambassador. He’s definitely going to bring the ever-accessible watchmaker to an entirely new audience if the viewers of the Pride & Prejudiceesque juggernaut is anything to go by. It’s good timing too, with Page also set to star in a new Russo brothers film for Netflix. He’s definitely on the up. longines.com

CONCORSO D’ELEGANZA VILLA D’ESTE WINNER ANNOUNCED As we rocket towards the end of the year, the car show season is coming to an end. One of the highlights was last month’s Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, which is produced in collaboration with A. Lange & Söhne. The German watchmaker awarded a one-of-one 1815 Chronograph to the winner of Best of Show, which went to Brian Ross’ 1956 Ferrari 250 GT Tour de France. And having had the chance to see the watch up close, it’s even lovelier than the pictures show. concorsodeleganzavilladeste.com

LONDON ART FAIR 2022 TICKETS ON SALE NOW Seiko have released a limited edition collection of four NATO straps, exclusive to the UK, inspired by the ‘shades of Britain’. The straps are designed for the Seiko Sport 5 range, although take it from us, they’ll look good on a great variety of watches. There are 100 of each design available. The first is a deep blue for the sea around Britain, the second is forest green for our verdant countryside, then there’s a sky blue one for the sky above and sandy brown for the coastline. Find out more and book your tickets at londonartfair.co.uk

Take it from us, they’ll look good on a great variety of watches 27

FRONT — world news

THE EDIT LDN AT HARRODS If you needed any more indicators that sneakers were a serious luxury proposition, Harrods is here to remind you. The legendary department store is welcoming the sneaker obsessives of The Edit LDN under their hallowed roof, offering limited-edition pairs of new and pre-loved shoes for collecting, investing and, just maybe, wearing. Sneakerheads rejoice and get yourselves over to Knightbridge before the usual well-heeled patrons of Harrods claim all the kicks for themselves. theeditldn.com

Sneakerheads rejoice and get over to Knightbridge before the Harrods patrons claim the kicks for themselves

WATCHES AND WONDERS 2022 REVEAL LINE-UP The days of massive trade shows seems to be behind us with watch brands preferring to stagger their releases throughout the year. The global pandemic then hastened that trend with all showcases opting for digital only affairs. However, one of the largest in-person events that remains is Watches and Wonders, which has already confirmed a

Anticipation could not be higher for the return of an in-person show

ACADEMY MUSEUM OF MOTION PICTURES OPENS IN LA Touted as the largest institution dedicated to the history, science and cultural importance of filmmaking in the USA, the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures is open now. The multiple galleries, auditoriums and exhibits are enough of a reason to visit but for watch enthusiasts there’s even more. The entire third floor is dedicated to the permanent Rolex gallery, the highlight of which is the actual Rolex Cosmograph Daytona worn by Paul Newman, arguably the most famous watch in cinema and beyond. Find out more at rolex.com

physical show from 30 March to 5 April 2022. They recently announced the line-up of brands who will be exhibiting at the event. Over 40 watchmakers have been confirmed including A. Lange & Söhne, JaegerLeCoultre, Rolex, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. A veritable feast of horological royalty. Considering that this year’s event saw releases like the new Rolex Explorer and the green dialled Patek Philippe Nautilus, despite being showcased digitally, anticipation could not be higher for the return of an in-person show. Keep up to date at watchesandwonders.com

FRONT — world news

GENEVA AUCTION WEEKEND Alongside Only Watch there are several other watch auctions taking place on the weekend of the 6th and 7th of November, albeit with slightly more conventional lots. Antiquorum’s Important Modern and Vintage Timepieces Auction is taking place in the Hotel Beau-Rivage Genève and includes a rare trio of Patek Philippe chronographs and perpetual calendars, ref. 1518, 2499 and 3971. Conservative estimates are well into the hundreds of thousands of pounds for each. Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIV is also happening, with a highlight being a Rolex Deep Sea experimental diver. Then, for good measure, Christie’s are also holding their Rare Watch auction that weekend too. For more information visit antiquorum.swiss phillips.com christies.com

GUESS T H E WATCH

Antiquorum’s Important Modern and Vintage Timepieces Auction includes a rare trio of Patek Philippe chronographs and perpetual calendars

It might not be their most headline grabbing timepiece – that would be the Freak, obviously – the Ulysse Nardin Marine is as close as the watchmaker has to a heritage watch, based as it is on early Marine Chronometers. It’s restrained and classical - unlike the next piece.

What complication is more hedonistic than the tourbillon? It serves little to no purpose other than to (minutely) improve the accuracy over time and is more often a statement of horological excess than anything else. This centrally mounted version from the brand that brought tourbillons into the modern era is no exception. Combined with some funky numerals and the watchmaker’s signature tonneau case, subtle it is not.

what is the

WATCH

If you think you know, drop our editor an email at sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk for your chance to win a print subscription for yourself or a fellow watch lover. CHECK BACK NEXT ISSUE FOR THE ANSWER

FRONT — introducing

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FRONT — introducing

NEWS

CARL F. BUCHERER

INTRO DUCING

X Caran d’Ache

The coming together of two luxury houses is always worth sitting up and taking notice of and the combined set of writing instrument and timepiece here is particularly lovely. Based on the Maero Flyback Signature, the new piece incorporates a rainbow dial based on the Caran d’Ache colour wheel. It comes with a pen incorporating the same colours and indexshaped facets for the perfect Swiss double act. That said, the bicompax chrono is definitely the standout of the pair as a fun take on a sporty watch.

IN DETAIL

• 43mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • CFB 1970 caliber automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £5,500, Limited to 188 pieces, carl-f-bucherer.com

GRAND SEIKO

Elegance SBGY008 Shizuri-Yuki

Another Grand Seiko release, another breathtaking dial. We’d be getting bored by now if they weren’t so damn lovely. This particular version, dubbed the Shizuri-Yuki, translates to freshly fallen snow, hence the gentler, rolling look of the dial. Based on the standard Elegance template, it has the level of finishing we’ve grown accustomed to from Grand Seiko and is equipped with a serious movement, the spring drive calibre 9R31. It’s yet another magnificent Japanese watch that we need to see in the metal.

IN DETAIL

• 38.5mm rose gold case with 30m water resistance • Spring Drive calibre 9R31 with 72hour power reserve • €38,000 (approx. £32,000), limited to 60 pieces, seikoboutique.co.uk

FRONT — introducing

IN DETAIL •

36mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance •

Hangzhou micro-rotor CAL5000A automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve •

£460, baltic-watches.com

BALTIC

MR01 Micro-Rotor

IN DETAIL

Baltic are going from strength to strength, even since stepping out of the relative safety of their incredibly successful Aquascaphe models. Case in point, the smaller, more classically styled MR01, a micro-rotor equipped dose of vintage cool, complete with a salmon dial and hesalite crystal. Combined with some quirky numerals and an oversized crown, it’s a touch less restrained than the watchmaker’s signature diving piece but will likely fly out of stock just as quickly – especially at this price.

41mm bronze case with 100m water resistance Oris 751 calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £1,650, oris.ch •

•

ORIS

Big Crown ProPilot Big Date Bronze

Bronze has a big place in watchmaking. Especially on dive watches because the metal has a long history of nautical usage. So, the fact that Oris have produced many bronze timepieces like the Cotton Candy is no surprise. They like the material so much they’re using it again, on the new Big Crown ProPilot Big Date Bronze, a lovely new variation on the brand’s most modern pilot piece with its signature fluted bezel. It’s not groundbreaking, but it doesn’t need to be.

FRONT — introducing

IN DETAIL

41mm rose gold case with 30m water resistance Caliber 581. 16 lignes automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • Limited to 35 pieces, breguet.com

• •

BREGUET

Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Anniversaire 5365

Abraham Louis Breguet filed the patent for the tourbillon 220 years ago, a complication that’s now ubiquitous in haute horology. Needless to say, Breguet feel overdue a celebration – and are doing so in the way they know best: the Classique Tourbillon Anniversaire. The ultra-thin piece is pure Breguet, refined and classical, finished with clous de Paris and barley grain, blued steel hands and tourbillon bridge. It is the essence of the maison’s approach to watchmaking. If you appreciate a Breguet, you will, like us, find this particular model breathtaking.

RAYMOND WEIL Tango 300

IN DETAIL

43mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance Ronda AG Startech 5030.D quartz movement • £1,195, raymond-weil.co.uk •

•

Modern, funky and with a specs sheet to satisfy the most obsessive diver, Raymond Weil’s Tango 300 collection is a seriously competitive quartz tool watch. Yet where previously they’ve tackled the depths, the latest have a more automotive bent, replacing the diving bezel with a tachymeter. The standouts of the new collection are the big new blacked-out versions with bright highlights in red or yellow – in short, supercar style without the price tag.

FRONT — facetime

FA C E T I M E

NO.

LEWIS HAMILTON is set to become the greatest Formula 1 racer of all time. That’s not hyperbole; it’s fact. The British star is on track to nab his eighth championship – if he can get past an incredibly competitive Max Verstappen – and celebrated his unprecedented 100th Grand Prix win in Sochi last month. Most of us would be out celebrating. Yes, Covid’s an everpresent danger, but who could resist a few magnums? Lewis,

Lewis Hamilton

We talk milestones and fighter jets with the seventime world champion 36

FRONT — lewis hamilton

“Winning the world championship with everything that was going on with the pandemic and BLM was way more emotional than I was expecting”

apparently. It shouldn’t come as any surprise by now that Hamilton is incredibly down-to-earth. Sure, we caught him for a few minutes, midway through a hectic racing schedule, but between his chilled vibe and loose, calm way of talking, he’s still very much the lad from Stevenage he grew up as. And despite his legendary status, at heart the racer’s a bit of a homebody. “It’s crazy these last 18 months. Normally in a season when you experience these things, your 100th Grand Prix, you know, you’d be celebrating with the team but we’re still working under these constraints so I’ve not celebrated yet. These days my kind of celebration is getting home, putting my feet up, have takeaway and watch a movie – not that exciting!” Honestly, that’s probably something we can all appreciate, especially if your day-to-day is as intense as the schedule of an F1 team. Between that and visiting his dad and stepmum – “I wanted to see them for the day and surprise them as I’d not been to see them where they live for years. It was a really special moment!” – Hamilton’s surprisingly downto-earth for a legend. He’s not even considered what an eighth win would actually mean for him. “It’s difficult to really capture what it could feel like. Winning the world championship last year with everything that was going on with the pandemic and BLM was way more emotional than I was expecting. Weeks went by when we weren’t racing, and I missed it so much. Now being in a season that’s super tight, we could win it, could not, I can’t imagine what it would be like.” At least he’s not dwelling on it too much. That kind of pressure can mount up. In the hypothetical though, should he win the eighth, where would he go from there? Well, given the form Hamilton’s still in, it’s no surprise that the answer is pretty much in the same direction. “Well, I’m signed for two more years, and I love driving, I love what I do still, the intensity of it, the travelling, everything. I don’t know what’s after that. Where do I go from 100 wins? I’m still in the mix of racing with the youngsters but I’ve still got it, still amongst them – and I’m inspired by other racers

with long careers, like Valentino [Rossi], so I’m hoping to be around for a while yet.” Bad news for those youngsters, then. Still, it doesn’t seem like tallying wins and stuffing his already crowded trophy cabinet are really what drive Hamilton on the track. As his dream celebration suggests, he’s not the kind of guy that just wants the payout at the end and is more concerned with changing Formula 1 for the better. “F1 shouldn’t be inaccessible just because of where someone comes from. I know I can always be replaced. Someone else will come and take my job

Hamilton is chasing his eighth world championship, but has set his sights on making his mark beyond the F1 record books

FRONT — facetime

“I’m wearing the big pilot at the moment. It’s the Top Gun edition, I’ve always been a big fan [of the movie] and love fighter jets. I’m thinking of getting one soon”

when I’m done, so it’s about a question of how do I maximise my time and energy with the platform I have? How can I move the needle in a positive way? I want to look back in 10, 20 years and think yes, now the sport looks like the rest of the world that’s watching. That’s what’s been burning in me.” It’s something that’s definitely needed in a sport that’s anything but easily accessible. But this is our Hedonism issue, so lovely as the sentiment is, it would be remiss of us to not discuss a few more materialistic gains with Hamilton. After all, he’s one of the most stylish racers around; so what’s his most important style essential? “I feel naked without a watch. You look at James Bond, the watch is what sets off his suit, his look.

I’ve been wearing them a long time, since I got my first from Argos. I remember saving up and going to Argos in Stevenage and buying this watch just because I wanted to uplift my look.” While we didn’t want to ask precisely what watch that was, there’s little doubt that Hamilton’s upped his horological game in the last few years thanks in good part to his partnership with IWC. Like his own team, it’s not a partnership he’s been passive in, either, releasing a particularly cool, collaborative burgundy perpetual calendar. That’s not what he has on today, however. “I’m wearing the big pilot at the moment. I love the weight, the size. I have wide wrists and I like knowing it’s there. It’s the Top Gun edition, I’ve always been a big fan [of the movie] and love fighter jets. I’m thinking of getting one soon. So that’s what drew me initially. It’s not great for a suit though; then I wear a Portofino instead.” Hamilton in a fighter jet is legitimately a terrifying thought, but it makes sense. When he’s not kicking back with a takeaway, you’re more likely to find him relaxing with a parachute on his back on his off days: “I’m an adrenaline junkie! Skydiving, surfing, rollercoasters, I love all that stuff!” So, beside a watch on his wrist and a dose of the high-octane every now and then, what is it that Lewis Hamilton can’t live without? What gets the world’s greatest racer up in the morning? A killer soundtrack, that’s what. “I need music. It’s the one thing I need in my life that I love, that I can’t live without. At home I have my vinyl, my CDs and I’ve always got something playing. Every morning I play something in the shower to get me in the mood for the day. It’s the only thing that keeps me sane.”

carat top

THE ORACLE SPEAKS

[Bezel Setting]

The wizardry of the watch world explained Words by MAT CRADDOCK

The oldest form of gem-setting around, it doesn’t simply mean any diamonds set into a bezel. Instead, it’s a very particular way of fixing a stone in place by essentially giving it a collar of metal. In some areas, it’s the perfect setting technique as it’s the most secure, holding the stones perfectly in place, and makes a natural technique for gem-set crowns and, yes, bezels. The big downside is that it shows off far less of the actual stones. If you’ve plumped for some serious quality gems – as most watchmakers will do – it really restricts how they catch the light and also decreases the visible surface area. It’s a practical setting, not a pretty one.

[Claw Setting]

[Diamond Setting in Watches]

There are few flashier odes to excess in this world than the not-so-humble diamond. That goes double if you’ve decided to drape a few hundred carats over a Royal Oak or Nautilus. Sure, diamonds in watches are nothing new, particularly for women’s pieces, but in the last few years there’s been an explosion in everything from diamond indexes to stretches of gold fully set with a conflict zone’s worth of diamonds. While it’s easy to get side-tracked by the stones themselves however – they’re so very, very sparkly – the only way to really show them off to their full grandiose potential is to set them well. And no, not all settings are the same. At the one end you have the basic ways to fix a stone into a watch, with claws or a bezel; at the other you have cutting-edge techniques using molten metal and mosaic. It’s worth brushing up on which is which, especially if you’re planning on getting your own iced-out sports watch, so we’ve broken down the various forms of gem settings used in watchmaking.

Pretty much self-explanatory here, claw setting is where curved metal prongs are used to hold the stones in place. You’ll have seen them in plenty of rings and jewellery pieces, but in watches they tend to look a little old-school, with few brands outside Backes & Strauss opting for the traditional look. The benefits are that it’s comparatively easy to do and lets in a lot more light than bezel settings, therefore showing off the fire of the stones. There is still plenty of metal on show however which, as you’ll see, is something that watchmakers seem to absolutely hate.

[Pavé Setting]

The baseline method of gemsetting in watches, pavé takes its name from the cobblestones it (in a very luxurious way) imitates. It’s a huge uptick in skill from bezel and claw setting in that it’s made directly from the case metal of the watch. The jeweller will make a series of holes in the watch, using the excess metal to create beads that then hold the stones in place. The rows have to be perfectly regular and the exact same size diamonds should be used across the board. There’s still a fair bit of metalwork showing through, but that’s not always the worst thing, especially if you like a bit of white diamond, yellow gold contrast. It’s also one of the best ways to make the most out of smaller stones. Provided they’re good quality, the effect of seeing so many diamonds, sapphires or rubies together is more than a little impressive. Micro pavé is the same concept, just using smaller stones (typically 0.1 carats) and smaller beads for fixing them in place. The individual stones aren’t as prominent, but neither is the metalwork.

FRONT — ask the oracle

← [BEZEL SETTING] ↓ [CLAW SETTING]

“ One wrong move and the stone is completely unusable. The results however speak for themselves ”

↓ [PAVE SETTING]

[Invisible Settings]

Rather than surrounding a stone with metal to keep it in place, the mystery setting – invented by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels (under the name mystery setting) way back in 1933 – takes a very different approach. A groove is cut into the back of each stone, which then snaps onto a metal rail, clipping in perfectly. It means cutting into the stones themselves, which of course costs time and money aplenty. One wrong move and the stone is completely unusable. The results however speak for themselves – enough that Van Cleef and Cartier aren’t the only two maisons making use of invisible settings. In fact, Franck Muller have been using it aplenty, to the point where they took Van Cleef & Arpels to court about the trademarked ‘mystery setting’ moniker and won. Nowadays, it’s only trademarked for VC&A’s jewellery collection. If you’re wondering, by the way, what the difference between ‘invisible’ and ‘mystery’ is, technically the former is for round stones, the latter is for baguette. These days though, ‘invisible’ is used pretty much interchangeably.

carat top

[SNOW SETTING] →

↓ [INVISIBLE SETTING]

“ You’re creating a mosaic out of diamonds, so selecting which ones to put where is a time-consuming process bordering madness ” [Snow Setting]

[Rock Setting]

Similarly to invisible settings, rock setting aims to make the metalwork holding the stones in place completely invisible. Rather than cutting into the stones however, rock setting involves pouring molten gold onto the arranged gems, platform side down, so that they become a single wall with no gaps – or metal – visible at all. Like snow setting, rock was invented by JaegerLeCoultre in the early 2000s and honestly, they’re the only ones using it. It makes up a fair few of their high jewellery dials and even the occasional case, where you can feel it’s perfect smoothness. That said, it’s more a novelty than it is a widespread setting technique.

There aren’t many settings more difficult than this. Snow setting tries to imitate the randomness of a blizzard, which means a scattering of seemingly haphazard stones ranging from, usually, 0.5mm to 1.6mm in diameter. The aim is to leave as little metal visible as possible, brushing it under precious stones while maintaining the contours of the watch. Unfortunately, it’s easier said than done. Choosing said stones is just the beginning; you’re essentially creating a mosaic out of pre-cut diamonds, so selecting which ones to put where is a time-consuming process bordering madness. It’s worth it though, at least for the end wearer. Snow setting can never be the same twice and provided you don’t have the kind of OCD that won’t let you wear such an irregular arrangement, it can be breathtaking. The technique itself is a relatively recent jewellery innovation and was originally introduced by Jaeger-LeCoultre back in 2002, a couple of years before rock setting. Since then, snow setting has found its way into plenty of haute horology creations, including the latest Richard Mille RM 07-01. Here they’ve even snow set the bracelet, too. If that’s not horologically hedonistic, nothing is.

FRONT — gucci 25h

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

IT’S A NUMBERS GAME

THE ITALIAN FASHION LABEL AIMS HIGH IN ITS CENTENARY YEAR WITH HELP FROM A SPECIFIC TRIO OF NUMBERS 47

FRONT — gucci 25h

The seventies-influenced new Gucci 25H (above and right) might have an instant aesthetic appeal, but it’s not style over substance thanks to a micro-rotor-equipped movement with a solid 60-hour power reserve, with bars matching those on the dial

In 1921, one of the most important events in history occurred: the foundation of the United States Figure Skating Association. Oh, and for those less invested in dancing on ice, it was also the year that gave birth to a little-known Florentine brand that you may have heard of: Gucci. Since then of course the Italian brand has become one of the biggest luxury icons in the world and for their centennial they’re celebrating with all the pomp and ceremony a fashion giant can muster. On the one hand, they’ve done so with their Gucci 100 collection; on another – and more importantly as far as we’re concerned – they’re entering the realm of fine watchmaking.

If you needed proof that Gucci started their watchmaking wing in the 1970s, this would be it 48

That should perhaps be re-entering. It might surprise you to learn that Gucci was arguably the first fashion house to produce a Swiss-made timepiece, way back in 1972. Granted it wasn’t the best time to try their hand at watchmaking given the quartz crisis was in full swing, but it was also an era that heralded some of the most iconic timepieces ever produced, from the Royal Oak to the Nautilus. Gucci was certainly in good company and created some seriously cool designs worthy of their name. So, what’s new now? Well, Gucci is now ready to elevate their designs to the realms of fine watchmaking. That means serious automatic movements, exquisite dials and the kind of headline grabbing complications that are pushing them into the big leagues alongside the likes of Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Chanel – the fashion labels that do watchmaking right. The new thrust into haute horology comprises of four mainline collections. There’s the high jewellery of course; no luxury powerhouse is complete without a selection of begemmed treasures. Then there’s the G-Timeless, which incorporates some of Gucci’s most famous recurring motifs, including their signature dancing bees. It’s a world away from the ubercontemporary Grip, an ode to sneakers and skateboards with one of the most distinctive designs around. The main event though is the Gucci 25H. If you needed proof that Gucci started their watchmaking wing in the 1970s, this would be it. Between the funky bezel and the lined dial with hints of Nautilus, it’s pure sports luxe in the best possible way. It’s slimmer and more elegant than most of the other players in that particular field, but the monochromatic look and integrated bracelet show that it’s definitely playing the same game. The name isn’t just recognition that there aren’t currently enough hours in the day. Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele has an affinity for a very specific trio of numbers. According to the Italian designer, two represents balance and cooperation while five signifies curiosity and freedom. Seven on the other hand is all about completeness. Well, the two and five are right there in the name, but if you were wondering where the seven was, you’ll need to look a little deeper. Right below the dial, in fact. The real launching off point for the 25H collection is Gucci’s new automatic calibre, the GG727.25 – emphasis on the sevens. It’s the label’s first in-house

FRONT — gucci 25h

Available as an automatic or tourbillon, both models share the same 40mm case, but only the tourbillon is available in platinum or gold, while the automatic is offered in steel or bi-colour, as befitting their different positions in Gucci’s horological hierarchy

movement and it’s a stunner. The micro-rotor equipped movement offers a solid 60-hour power reserve and finishing to match the dial, everything you could want from a proprietary calibre. Yet that movement perhaps shouldn’t come as a big surprise. In case you didn’t know, Gucci is part of Kering group. So are Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin, two watchmakers with more than a bit of skill at the craft. Gucci has nicely leveraged that in-group expertise by making use of Kering’s La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture to develop and build the GG727.25. Both mechanical 25H models use the same movement with a slight variation, depending on whether you opt for the standard automatic or the tourbillon. Yep, in their inaugural in-house collection, Gucci is coming in hard with a tourbillon and, as you can see from our shots, it’s a serious statement piece. Both automatics and tourbillons share the same 40mm case, but where the automatic has the calibre number in red at six o’clock (which by the way is very cool though that I’d like to see more of it) the tourbillon replaces it with an open regulator and a barred cage that fits in with the satin-brushed horizontal lines of the dial. It’s a very well-made piece though, honestly, I’d always opt for an automatic myself. I’m not all that

Between a solid in-house movement and a cool, seventiesesque design, the fashion titan has definitely made a statement sold on tourbillons as a complication, though them being the most gloriously over-the-top element in watchmaking has some charm. There’s a good reason it made the cover of our Hedonism issue. The tourbillon is available in platinum or gold; the automatic in steel or bi-colour as befitting their different positions in Gucci’s horological hierarchy. Both models however come on the same style of bracelet, a solid, incredibly comfortable five-link number that might just be the best machined part of the entire watch. While I’d have liked to see something between the automatic and tourbillon – a GMT would lend itself nicely to the design – the 25H leaves little doubt that Gucci is ready to bat for the big leagues. Between a solid in-house movement and a cool, seventies-esque design both backed by Kering’s watchmaking chops, the Italian fashion titan has definitely made a statement. I’m genuinely looking forward to seeing where they go with it next.

STYLE — happy hour

HAPPY HOUR Photography by TOM PETTIT FRASER VINCENT

There’s little point in pursuing a life of hedonism if you don’t have a cocktail in hand and the appropriate style to match. After all, being a sybarite is thirsty work. Thankfully, Ever After and Happiness Forgets in Shoreditch concocted the delicious - and very potent - libations to accompany the most gloriously ostentatious watches to wear as you quaff an Old Fashioned. Another round of drinks when you’re ready please, barkeep

Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Sepia 40mm Pink Gold case with 30m water resistance calibre 1326 automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve £19,100, vacheron-constantin.com

Hop Scotch Sour Chivas 12 scotch, lemon juice, sugar syrup, egg white. Topped with IPA.

STYLE — happy hour

Champagne Cocktail Martel vsop cognac, angostura-soaked sugar cube, chatogne taillet NV champagne

STYLE — happy hour

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 41mm rose gold case with 30m water resistance Calibre CH 29 535 PS Q handwound movement with 55-hour power reserve £163,940, patek.com

Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Premier 39mm x 41mm Rose gold case with 100m water resistance Caliber GCA3002 automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve £26,800, geraldcharles.com

Negroni Verde Gin, dry vermouth, absinthe cucumber.

STYLE — happy hour

Gin Martini Plymouth Gin, dry Vermouth, white tea, kept in the freezer at -15°

STYLE — happy hour

Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series 39.3mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance Calibre 6R35 Automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve £860, seikoboutique.co.uk

An orange brandy liqueur Pierre ferrand orange Curacao.

STYLE — happy hour

Gucci 25H Tourbillon 40mm platinum case with 30m water resistance Calibre GG727.25.T movement with 60-hour power reserve £154,000, gucci.com

Old Fashioned Eagle rare 10yr bourbon, sugar syrup, bitters

STYLE — happy hour

Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Gold 40mm rose gold case with 100m water resistance calibre BR-CAL.322. automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve £28,800, bellross.com

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm frosted white gold case with 50m water resistance Calibre 3132 automatic movement with 45-hour power reserve price on request, audemarspiguet.com

Albamarle Fizz Beefeater Gin, raspberries, lemon juice, sugar syrup, egg white. Topped with soda.

STYLE — happy hour

Espresso Martini Plantation pineapple rum, Orgeat (almond syrup), Mr black coffee liqueur, espresso

STYLE — happy hour

Piaget Polo Skeleton 42mm rose gold case with 30m water resistance calibre 1200S1 automatic movement with 44-hour power reserve £39,400, piaget.com

Style 66 /

70 /

Not just a lockdown

Alexander McQueen

indulgence, silk PJs

turns the classic black

are here for your lie

shirt into a style

in – or even a night out

worth treasuring \

68 /

76 /

The Telegraph’s Stephen

Doig examines the labels

EDITED BY

SHANE C. KURUP

72 /

putting maximalism back on the style agenda \

84 /

Party on with these

Do justice to your

grooming solutions

twilight exploits with

knowing your face won’t

our Kit Bag of rakish

get dressed in AW21’s

tire as quickly as your

eveningwear

most decadent threads

dancing feet

Dior Men AW21

The social scene

is back and it’s time to

Libertine mode

>—> After more than a year of puritanical isolation and having just about every soiree and shindig cancelled, your urge to get a little riotous is probably as strong as one of Mick Jagger’s tequila cocktails. Luckily, this season’s brightest design minds have heeded the call, and our line-up of AW21’s most indulgent attire and grooming treatments will have you living your best life in time for party season.

Oracle Style — Nov.21

STYLE — most coveted

THE REAL MCCOY

Thom Scherdel, menswear buyer at brownsfashion.com, imparts his pearls of wisdom for telling a genuine nacre gem from a dud

1— Reflective nature Look at its surface – you should be able to see your reflection clearly with a real pearl 2— Warming to it Genuine pearls feel cold to the touch at first, but they will warm on contact with the skin 3— The tooth test Rub it gently on one of your front teeth – there should be a slight grittiness to its texture

Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

PEARLY KING

Alexander McQueen’s nacre-detailed shirt proves you don’t need to be a pearl-clutcher when it comes to wearing the ocean’s most treasured gem. >—> While pearls are most likely to be found in the bijouterie boxes of grannies and Upper East Side socialites, they in fact, have a storied history in menswear. In Rajasthan, men have long donned pearls to signify lineage while in ancient China, they were worn as a talisman to guard against fire.

Perhaps most enduring though, is the image of cheery cockney costermongers who embellished their suits in head-turning displays of pearly buttons in an inventive attempt to shift more spuds. While there’s no hard evidence that they’ll save you from a conflagration

– or boost your commercial ventures – the pearl’s aesthetic merits are once again appealing to the modern man. This perceptive shift has, in no small part, been fuelled by the likes of Harry Styles, A$AP Rocky and Pharrell, who aren’t shy about stepping out with a neckful of nacre beads. “The

uninitiated might dismiss pearls as a grandmotherly accessory, but as men’s jewellery evolves, more Gen-Z icons are reinventing them and playing with those bourgeoisie connotations,” says Stephen Doig, menswear editor of The Telegraph. But if you just don’t have the gall to pull on an iridescent twinset, there are less divisive ways to dip your toes in pearlescent waters. Through a few well-placed embroidered pearl patches, artisanal champion Alexander McQueen has transformed what could just be another black shirt into something darkly decadent. Add to that a precision cut that follows the razor-sharp tailoring codes of the house and you’ve got a garment to make you the style monger of the moment. Alexander McQueen embroidered pearl patches shirt, £630 alexandermcqueen.com

STYLE — style manifesto

Puttin' on the Ritz Rockstar vision

>—> Slipping on a great pair of sunglasses always makes you feel a little more rock ‘n’ roll – and Kirk Originals is taking that to a whole new level. The London-based brand has collaborated with the Rolling Stones on a duo of shades for the band’s new lifestyle store on Carnaby Street (where else?). Handmade in the UK, the two styles are inspired by two Stones albums: Aftermath (an angular sixties style crafted from deep black acetate) and Black and Blue (a squared-off seventies aviator with a tortoiseshell frame and sun-yellow lenses). They’re strictly limited edition so, much like tickets to their gigs, you’ll want to move fast to get your hands on them. kirkoriginals.com

Restaurants. Bars. Clubs. Nightlife is back and, after a year and a half of the most exciting after-dark excursion being a midnight trip to your local Tesco Express, we’re all raring to shake things up again. Whatever you’ve missed most, part of the fun of returning to the social scene is making sure you’re dressed for the occasion. Whether it’s a louche silk shirt, a decadent signet ring or rockworthy shades, AW21 has just what you need to set loose your inner libertine.

Words by NICK CARVELL

Go for bespoke

Shine on

>—> As the nights get longer and the weather drearier, the siren call of cocktail hour at your local bar has never felt louder. Whatever your outfit or poison of choice, a bombastic ring is the perfect accompaniment – and gender-neutral Swedish jewellery crafter AllBlues has the styles to suit. Its latest drop includes this voluptuous take on a traditional signet ring, made in Stockholm using recycled silver and gold, which is guaranteed to catch someone’s eye glinting in the low light – whether that be an admirer or just the bartender to get in another round. £300, allblues.se

>—> Thanks to living our lives on Zoom, it’s probably been months since anyone’s seen your feet. So why not step out into the world again in a pair of shoes that command attention? London shoe designer Penelope Chilvers has just reopened her Duke Street store, which is home to her bespoke slipper service. Choose from a wide variety of vivid velvets and suedes, bold trims and an array of natty embroidery. Each pair is designed from scratch to your exact specifications and will arrive ready for you to get the party started in six to eight weeks. From £348, exclusively at Penelope Chilvers, 69 Duke Street, London, W1K 5NX. Book an appointment by calling 020 7491 9555. penelopechilvers.com

STYLE — style manifesto

Formal flair

>—> There will always be a place for the uber-trad black tuxedo in a man’s wardrobe, but as we celebrate the glorious return of formal events, now seems the right time to go for something a little bolder. Tom Ford has made a career out of attention-snagging eveningwear, but this season it’s even stronger than usual, packed with ballsy, rich velvets and riotous patterns. The designer’s high-shine blue and green lamé floral take on his classic Atticus cocktail jacket is guaranteed to be a highlight in low light - and as good-looking with grosgrain-taped trousers and a bow tie as it would be with a black T-shirt and (suitably smart) trainers. £4,730, tomford.co.uk

Sensual shirting

>—> From menswear to music to the menu at your local restaurant, there’s a reason why there are nods to the seventies everywhere post-pandemic – it was the decade that redefined decadence. That carefree, liberated attitude is something we all need right now. There are few items in a man’s wardrobe that scream sex more than a silk shirt and no brand understands the brief more than bohemian British label, 73 London. Inspired by vintage textiles, the label’s jazzy silk shirts should be unbuttoned a little too far down your chest for peak loucheness (gold medallion not required). matchesfashion.com

Material gains

>—> As you might expect from the name, the origins of the fuzzy and frankly iconic Motoluxe coat can be traced back to the dawn of the auto age in the early twentieth century. Originally created to keep Bright Young Things warm in their open-top tourers as they careered down Mayfair streets and country lanes, the teddy bear-style coat later became something of a status symbol among seventies rockers – most notably Mick Jagger. Today, its combination of deep pile alpaca wool fabric (produced by legendary soft toy maker Steiff), satin lining and belted waist has enough swagger to make even a planet-friendly suburban Prius ride feel a touch rebellious. £1,950. masonandsons.com

STYLE — wardrobe champion

PJ PRESERVATION New & Lingwood CEO Freddie Briance offers insider tips on keeping your silky jammies in pristine condition

1— Gently Does It Dry clean your silk PJs to help extend their lifespan or handwash with a mild silk detergent 2— Target Practice To shift stains and marks, delicately rub them with a damp sponge before washing Words by

3— Colour Fast Dry away from direct heat or sunlight and iron on the reverse on a low setting to preserve colour

IAN TAYLOR

THE SILKY WAY Lightweight, high-performance and unapologetically fabulous, New & Lingwood’s decadent silk pyjamas are much more than a lockdown extravagance

>—> We all found our own ways of coping with lockdown. Some turned their spare rooms into gyms and burpeed away the blues. Others mastered the art of sourdough. The wisest among us realised though that The Great Indoors presented the perfect opportunity to purchase some silk pyjamas and swan around the house like

Jay Gatsby on a particularly bad hangover. Hopefully, those days of isolation are now behind us, but we’re keeping New & Lingwood’s silk PJs, thank you very much. Why, you ask? Because when it comes to home comforts nothing beats the almost sinfully soft touch of silk next to your skin. And if you really need to justify it (either to yourself or in the

family WhatsApp group), then know that silk is one of the most practical, high-performance fabrics you can wear for a lazy Sunday morning. You don’t have to take our word for it. Professor Patrick Guerra, a biologist at the University of Cincinnati, says it’s breathable, lightweight and remarkably hygienic. “The proteins that make

up silk have anti-microbial properties not possessed by other fabrics,” he says. And Guerra would know: he published a study at the height of lockdown on why silk was an ideal material for face masks. We’re fans of New & Lingwood’s pyjamas in particular because they’ve been masters of decadent loungewear since the mid-1800s. Lavish prints and rich colours will brighten up the darkest of morning-afters and each set is finished with thoughtful details both practical and sartorial, such as drawstring waistbands and elegant spread collars. If you need a final nudge, look up the pyjama shirt trend on your nearest screen. Styled correctly, a buttoned-up silk pyjama top works for a lavish night out as much as well-earned lie in. Navy tiger-print cotton-silk pyjama set, £495 newandlingwood.com

STYLE — grooming cabinet

1-Miracle mask

>—> Face masks are usually the most time-consuming element of any grooming ritual, so this speedy treatment from Heath is a wondrous invention if you’re working against the clock. Just turn on the water and while you wait for it to heat up, slather it on and allow the steam to help it penetrate your pores for a few minutes and simply rinse off. With aloe vera, glycolic acid and AHAs, this cooling, clay-based mask will quickly rejuvenate dull, tired-looking skin, giving you a healthier glow and a smoother texture in mere moments. £16, heathlondon.co.uk

4-Corrective Cleanser

2-Rolling massage

>—> Got that puffy, bloated look? You can literally iron it away with Susanne Kaufmann’s Obsidian Face Roller, which relieves inflammation, closes pores and stimulates circulation. Pre-chill the tool in the fridge then on bare skin – or after applying product – work the tool down your throat, then roll it upward and outwards across your chin, cheeks, under-eye area and forehead. This will help flush out toxins and release tension, while enhancing the absorption of any unguent that you’ve slapped on. £230, susannekaufmann.com

Party on

The countdown to party season has begun, and it’s certainly going to put last year’s lockdown in the shade. Going out again might be glorious, but dealing with a fatigued face is not. Late nights, excessive imbibing, smoking (and vaping), along with a canapé-filled diet of rich, salty food, can cause dull, dry skin, redness, puffiness and break outs. So, here’s a line up of super products to help save face during the festivities

3-Pore perfection

>—> Alcohol is a diuretic, so it can leave your skin pretty parched. Ironically, this can lead to oilier skin as sebum production can go into overdrive trying to address the imbalance. Post shower, rehydrate a flagging face and a shiny T-zone with Ole Henriksen’s Cold Plunge Pore Remedy Moisturizer. Lightweight and cooling, it’s for oily and combination skin, with beta and lipo hydroxy acids to minimise pores, control surface oil and smooth out any fine lines. £36, boots.com

Words by JESSICA PUNTER

>—> Most late nights don’t end with an elaborate grooming regime, so start your postparty recovery with a thorough cleanse. Sarah Chapman’s omega-rich Ultimate Cleanse is packed with antioxidants and Vitamins A and E. Antiinflammatory and hydrating, it helps control sebum production, so it is excellent at rebalancing all skin types. The holistic scent of camphor, neroli and jasmine will reawaken your skin and revitalize your senses. £54, sarahchapman.com

STYLE — grooming cabinet

7-Addictive aromas

5- Spot the difference

>—> Boozing deprives your body of vital nutrients, so when your skin starts to rebel it’s a sure sign of stress. Alcohol itself dilates the blood vessels, causing redness. If you’ve woken up with a breakout threatening, apply Harry’s Targeted Blemish Treatment to the area. This soothing, cooling gel helps reduce visible redness and contains salicylic acid to refine the skin and help minimise the offending eruption. £7, harrys.com

>—> Perfumer Olivier Cresp’s ingenious Akro line of hedonistic spritzes allows you to indulge in your favourite vices without any of the less desirable side effects. Smoke is layered with notes of Balkan tobacco leaves, benjoin and tonka bean to evoke the seductive first draw of a cigarette – minus the tarredup lungs. Malt is a blend of whiskey, rum, leather and patchouli, to intoxicate while sparing your liver, and Haze is a heady fusion of absinthe, armoise, eucalyptus, spearmint and sage that’s redolent of the green stuff, but won’t leave you with the midnight munchies. £140 each, akrofragrances.com

SMART SWIGGER

Spencer Matthews, TV personality, founder of CleanCo, the non-alcoholic spirit company and author of *Clean Cocktails shares his top tips on how to avoid a hangover

1— Keep tabs Use a moderation app or note down each drink you have with the time to practice mindful drinking and tot up your weekly units 2— Drink clean between Alternate every alcoholic drink with a no or low-alcohol alternative to help pace yourself and increase hydration

6-Cool eye care

>—> The eyes are the window to the soul, and the first feature to betray a late night. Lack of sleep will give you dark circles, while alcohol causes water retention and dehydration, resulting in puffy bags and exacerbating fine lines. These Sub-Zero De-Puffing Eye Masks from 111 Skin are icy blue hydrogel patches designed to send under eye bags packing, refreshing your peepers for a brighter, more rested look. £12, 111skin.co.uk

3— Sip, don’t down On average, the liver takes an hour to break down a unit of alcohol, so aim to have no more than one glass in a 60-minute period *Spencer Matthew’s new book, Clean Cocktails , is published on 25th of November.

STYLE — maximalist man

Dolce & Gabbana’s autumn/winter collection has a more is more attitude, while Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele and Harry Styles (right) threw minimalism aside on the Met Gala red carpet

Words by

Stephen Doig

Maximalist man In a homogenised industry of mass-production and minimalism, it can feel that sartorial expressionism has gone the way of the dodo. But some brands are bucking the less-is-more mantra. Stephen Doig, menswear editor of The Telegraph examines the labels that favour wearing your maximalist chutzpah on your sleeve

STYLE — maximalist man

“Nakedness makes us democratic, adornment makes us individuals,” said Liberace, who was no stranger to ensuring that, by his measurement, he was as wildly individual as humanly possible. The flamboyant performer was one of the 20th century’s great male peacocks (although there had certainly been others before him), and a celebrant – and symbol of – lavish male dress in a greige post-war world. So he’d be raising a jewel-fingered toast (pink Champagne, naturally) to menswear’s current maximalist renaissance. “I think the idea of having fun and playing with your identity is definitely on men’s agenda style wise now,” says Damien Paul, head of menswear at e-tail behemoth Matches Fashion. It’s certainly telling that this new emphasis on the bold and unabashed is happening now, as we emerge blinking into society after such a long period of style inertia, where casual clothes have dominated and sales of hoodies have spiked. Beyond the catwalk theatrics – and the baroque stylings of brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Alexander McQueen and Gucci – it’s also a movement on the red carpet. See for example the clashing sofa pattern motifs of tailoring sported by Harry Styles (in seventies-esque Gucci) or the raised eyebrows and headlines about Daniel Craig eschewing standard black for his tuxedo in favour of searing bright raspberry. As social events gradually fill up the diary once more, it’s clear that dressing to make an impact is back on the table. “There’s maximum freedom today, that’s what the new generation has taught us,” said Stefano Gabbana upon the unveiling of he and Domenico Dolce’s autumn/winter men’s collection back in January. And it was maximum

sensory assault too; the clothes veered from gleaming metallic suits to tailoring embellished with crystals and pearls, jewellery studded T-shirts and animal print. Having tempered their aesthetic in previous seasons in favour of a more handcrafted, rustic charm, the duo volte-faced with a more is more attitude. It was the desire for the opulent, ornate and singular that compelled the Italian powerhouse to start designing the men’s Alta Sartoria couture line eight years ago, to create truly remarkable pieces – think heavily bejewelled, brocaded and jacquarded – for an ultra-high net worth roster of private clients. It was actually a particularly extravagant demand that provided the seed for the collection; one of their female couture clients purchased a dress with a replica Caravaggio print on it. Her husband promptly got in touch; could they recreate the pattern on a suit? The pair had to decline; they only had the rights to recreate this image once. No matter, said the fellow, he owned said Caravaggio – as one does – and happily gave them the green light.

“It’s always been the case that the consumer embraces joy in fashion following times of uncertainty, and we’re seeing that with our male customer” A bold approach was also evident for the autumn/winter 2021 collection at Dior Men, which saw creative director Kim Jones collaborate with artist Peter Doig in a series of decorative, show stopping one-off designs; from bright knitwear that incorporated the artist’s imagery to embroidered hardware on jackets. Shunning what he referred to as lockdown’s ‘gloomy mood’ he “wanted to create something that lifted the spirits...it felt like the time for optimism, all things beautiful and special.” At Louis Vuitton, patterns clashed against each other on coats and even at one of the

most restrained and refined of traditional men’s suiting institutions, Brioni, designer Norman Stumpfl created a suit in which silk fibres were coated in 24-karat gold. Of course, decorative men’s dressing is nothing new historically. In the court of Louis XIV, the Sun King evolved a style of dress as lusciously grand as the royal women of his court, featuring highheeled shoes (an affectation inherited from Venetian nobility) in scarlet red, parasols, furs, silks and sumptuous jewels – with rouge as liberally applied as any of his female counterparts. The Camp-themed 2019 Met Gala had nothing on the Louis le Grand. In the early 19th-century, British bon viveur Beau Brummell cemented his mantle as the ‘original dandy’, wearing clothes that while not quite ‘maximalist’ in the most expressive sense, were curated for impact and a degree of show. And after Victorian sombreness and two world wars, it wasn’t until the 1960s that a more outré sense of men’s style evolved in the form of Elton John, Jimi Hendrix and David Bowie – the former dressed in high-octane Bob Mackie glitz and feathers, citing Liberace as an early influence on his style. The last truly ‘maximalist’ era of men’s fashion were the 1980s and ‘90s, where pioneers like Jean Paul Gaultier and Gianni Versace turned the dial up to 11 in terms of print, pattern, excess and vivacity. The latter’s blousy, wildly printed shirts featuring swirling tendrils, Medusa heads and clashing acid brights became a byword for ostentation. And now? “Historically, it’s always been the case that the consumer embraces joy in fashion following times of uncertainty, and we’re seeing that with our male customer. Men today are becoming more confident and forward thinking, and that follows through in terms of bold clothing,” explains Paul. “We’ve seen a huge uplift in pieces focusing on tactile fabrications, bright colours and prints. We’ve noticed high sell-through rates on anything bright this season, possibly because people are finally holidaying abroad and want to feel celebratory. Yellow is proving popular,” says the buyer. Crucially, maximalism isn’t just excess

Clockwise from top left; Matches Fashion’s buy emphasises “having fun and playing with your identity;” Dolce & Gabbana’s autumn/ winter men’s collection delivers an all-out sensory assault; Versace champions vivacious prints; and Dolce & Gabbana show off gleaming trousers and multi-hued knits

STYLE — maximalist man

STYLE — xxxxxxxx

Kim Jones at Dior Men collaborated with artist Peter Doig for the autumn/winter 2021 collection (top left, bottom right and previous page) in a series of decorative, show stopping one-off designs; Brioni created a silk suit with fibres coated in 24-karat gold, alongside more tempered, dark-hued looks (left)

STYLE — maximalist man

The key is tempering the extravagant touches; borrow from the Tom Ford playbook and don a brocade or silk moiré dinner jacket with sleek black trousers for excess’s sake. Much of the techniques involved are painstaking with artisans lending a degree of richness – and a certain geek appeal – to surface adornment. Whether that’s Belgian designer Dries Van Noten creating a beadwork atelier in India or the handcrafting at Dolce & Gabbana’s factories in industrial Veneto, where jacquard, brocade and embellishment techniques are acquired over the course of generations. It’s particularly notable now largely due to the two opposing forces in the world of menswear that existed prepandemic. In one camp, a creeping casualisation and rise of athleisurewear, where clothes are low-key, downplayed and sports-focused. And in the other, the bombastic rise of Alessandro Michele at Gucci whose joyously flamboyant, kitschy-cool approach has seen sales boom since he took hold in 2015. Even in the midst of the global health crisis, sales rose 24.6% in the first quarter of 2021. Alongside Michele, Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent and Hedi Slimane at Celine have also created a men’s style template based on all things sparkle-dusted and crystal-studded. Which begs the question; how to wear such outlandish pieces in 2021? The key is tempering the extravagant touches; borrow from the Tom Ford playbook and don a brocade or silk moiré dinner jacket with sleek black trousers and a muted black polo, or take a leaf out of Dries Van Noten’s book, who will pair a riotous patterned shirt with rustic jeans or clean-cut shorts. You don’t have to go full Liberace, but a sprinkling of sartorial stardust is certainly the mood of the moment.

Dior Men’s autumn/ winter collection shunned lockdown’s ‘gloomy mood’ according to artist Peter Doig; a bold ensemble from Tom Ford’s autumn/ winter 2021 collection (left)

STYLE — kit bag

Night moves Whether you’re spending the festive period at home or away, AW21’s most decadent evening gear will have you rocking into the twilight hours Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

1/ Malone Souliers Miles black velvet crystal loafers £495.00, malonesouliers.com 2/ Gucci Kingsnake GG logo leather card holder £180, selfridges.com 3/ Clous de Paris decor lighter £720, cartier.com 4/ Givenchy Slim-Fit Wool Blazer £2,015, mrporter.com 5/ Louis Vuitton Travertine silk shirt £1,100, uk.louisvuitton.com 6/ MAD Paris customised Rolex Milgauss watch £26,000, brownsfashion.com 7/ Ceramic tiger’s eye signet ring £155.00, tateossian. com 8/ Bianca Saunders Tuxin satin-trim trousers £640, matchesfashion.com 9/ Au Depart Le Porte-Habits jacquard garment bag £1,800, matchesfashion.com 10/ Drake’s Unicornprint wool-silk scarf £295, drakes.com

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WATCH-LOVER

For the horological obsessive whose heart beats in time with a Swiss lever escapement

IT’S THAT TIME OF YEAR ONCE AGAIN WHEN THE NIGHTS ARE LONG, THE WEATHER’S COLD AND EGGNOG IS ACTUALLY ACCEPTABLE. WHILE LAST CHRISTMAS WAS, FOR OBVIOUS REASONS, A BIT OF A MUTED AFFAIR, THIS YEAR WE’RE FREE TO ENJOY IT! AT THE TIME OF WRITING, AT LEAST. NEEDLESS TO SAY, IT’S TIME TO MAKE UP FOR THE LOSS OF IT, AND ALONG WITH THE POMP, CEREMONY AND OVEREATING THAT THE FESTIVE SEASON NECESSITATES, IT’S TIME TO INDULGE IN OUR CONSUMERIST TENDENCIES AND HUNT FOR THAT IDEAL CHRISTMAS GIFT. AND A TIE IS JUST AS UNACCEPTABLE NOW AS IT WAS BACK IN 2018. NEVER FEAR HOWEVER, FOR AS TIME BLURS TOGETHER AND THE SEASON OF GIVING GETS WORRYINGLY CLOSE, WE’VE PUT TOGETHER OUR ANNUAL GIFT GUIDE TO GIVE YOU A LITTLE HELP IN FINDING THAT PERFECT PRESENT. FROM TECH JUNKIES TO STYLE MAVENS, WE’VE COMPILED MUST-HAVES FOR ANY AND ALL INTERESTS. SO IF YOU’RE STRUGGLING TO SHOP – OR FANCY FILLING OUT YOUR OWN WISHLIST – READ ON AND ENJOY. CONSIDER IT OUR GIFT TO YOU.

Edited By

SAM KESSLER

JEAGER-LECOULTRE: REVERSO BOOK As the iconic Reverso approaches the grand old age of 90, it’s a good opportunity to add a lush tome to your library (or indeed your coffee table) courtesy of the twin excellences of Maison Assouline and horological historian Nick Foulkes. The new book is an absolute stunner and, even if you’re not a fan of its Art Deco stylings, it’s worth a read for any educated collector, tracing the history and evolution of what might just be the world’s first serious sports watch. £164.86, eu.assouline.com

THE ORACLE TIME CHRISTMAS

GIFT GUIDE

gift guide

VISCONTI WATCH ROLL Do you have a watch for every day of the week? No? Then you’re just not a true collector. This watch roll by the Italian artisans at Visconti Milano caters only to the most dedicated of horological aficionados, made from sumptuous leather that’s downright glorious to the touch and with space for seven fine timepieces, marked each by a day of the week. It’s not one to be knocked around, but it is a fitting ode to the watches you simply can’t be separated from, wherever your travels take you. €440 (approx. £370), viscontimilano.com

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It is a fitting ode to the watches you simply can’t be separated from

MODALO TIMELESS MV4 There are few things more frustrating in life than keeping your entire watch collection wound and at the ready like slow motion plate spinning. Modalo is here to help that horological circus act with their ironically named Timeless MV4. A dark mix of macassar ebony and sleek, glossy black, the winder can hold four automatic watches in a manner to which they can quickly become accustomed. There’s also space for two additional watches hidden under the wooden front panel, perfect for more delicate pieces – or those you’d rather not put on full display. Rife with technological innovations, this is a serious winder for serious timepieces. £867.23, modalo.com

QLOCKTWO CLASSIC CREATORS EDITION VINTAGE COPPER WALL CLOCK This is what a good patina can look like. None of that dirty, foggy look that bronze watches get but the unique, oxidised greenish blue of the Statue of Liberty. With a background like that, the letters of QLOCKTWO’s signature wordy time-telling look almost engraved into the metal. Fusing archaic material and modern innovation, not only do you get an interior statement piece, but you’ll never have to work out the time again. You know, if you were struggling with that beforehand. £2,150, qlocktwo.com

watch lover

WATCH GANG PLATINUM SUBSCRIPTION

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Ever saved someone from a burning building? William Wood’s upcycled straps have

WILLIAM WOOD GREEN FIREHOSE STRAP Ever saved someone from a burning building? William Wood’s upcycled straps have. Well, potentially, at least. Made from the discarded water hoses of various firefighting regiments around the world, this khaki green number comes from the British Armed Forces Defence Fire & Rescue Unit, hence its militaristic look. If you’re looking for something a little bit different from your usual canvas NATO number, look no further. It’s subtler than their usual brightly-coloured fare, but every bit as gloriously smoke-wreathed.

Can’t decide on a watch? Let someone else do it for you. Watch Gang might sound like a nineties rap group gone wrong, but the monthly subscription service is the biggest of its kind for good reason, predominantly value. As it sounds, the platinum package is at the top end of scale at just under $300 per month. On the other hand, each monthly watch retails for up to $1,500, so that’s a big margin. You’re guaranteed an automatic movement and the chance to win a Rolex and TAG Heuer every week. In short, you get a lot of bang for your buck, even if you don’t quite know what’s going to fire. $300 per month (approx. £215), watchgang.com

£100, williamwoodwatches.com

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ORIGINAL ARTWORK BY JULIE KRAULIS

Julie Kraulis can turn graphite into watchmaking art

BECO TECHNIC 11-PIECE WATCHMAKER SERVICE SET

From impossibly detailed drawings of haute horology movements to more abstract takes on iconic timepieces, Toronto-based Julie Kraulis can turn graphite into true watchmaking art. They’re not small either; her take on Paul Newman measures in at 20’’ by 30’’ – that’s a good five feet high. You can nab yourself a limited edition print from about $300 or commission an original artwork for considerably more. If there’s something of a watchmaking bent your home gallery is crying out for, then drop her a line.

Any watch lover should be able to keep their favourite timepiece ticking, provided they have the right tools. This set of professional-standard implements from the industry specialists at BECO TECHNIC has all the right stuff, including a loupe, screwdrivers, a spring bar tool, a pair of caseback openers and assorted spring bars. From a simple strap swap to a full-on disassembly, these tools have you covered. Just don’t blame us if putting things back together turns out harder then expected.

Prints from $300 (approx. £215), shop.juliekraulis.com

£98.75, watchobsession.co.uk

TECH

Gadgets, gear and ground-breaking tech – just nothing last gen, please

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DJI AIR 2S

NAIM MU-SO WOOD EDITION Cutting-edge sound meets natural wood in the latest edition of Naim’s industryleading wireless streaming juggernaut. Offering easy access to practically every wireless streaming service under the sun, the Mu-so can function simply as a wireless speaker or as the heart of an integrated home audio system. So far, so Naim. But clad in sustainable Ayous hardwood with a light oak lacquer, this latest edition may just be the best looking yet. Which let’s be honest, is saying something.

Arguably the most versatile drone on the market, the DJI Air 2S is compact, lightweight and easy to take wherever you want to get some glorious aerial shots. At the same time, it packs a punch thanks to 4K filming with glorious clarity and colour tones. If stills are more your speed, you can shoot in RAW format and merge multiple shots automatically to reduce the need for post-editing. And to make sure all those shots aren’t wasted in an errant gust of wind, it also has collision detection in four directions. All-in-one is right.

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This latest edition may just be the best looking yet

£899, dji.com

£1,599, naimaudio.com

tech

RAZER BLACKWIDOW ELITE Working from home is likely here to stay for a lot of us, so rather than holding out until your office finally gets shuttered, it’s about time to up your home office to the next level. Enter Razer and their incredible mechanical keyboard. Sure, Blackwidow Elite sounds like a Call of Duty-obsessed 12-year-old, but this ergonomic lightshow of a peripheral is as eye-catching as it is responsive. It’s also about as satisfying as a keyboard can get.

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It’s worth investing in some serious noise-cancelling headphones

£199, razer.com

SONY WH-1000XM4 NOISE CANCELLING WIRELESS HEADPHONES

SAMSUNG FRAME A tech must-have for any art lover, the Samsung Frame is both a QLED 4K TV and a breathtakingly lifelike digital photo frame. When you’re not watching shows on it, it sits as a testament to your good taste to showcase pieces of art, family photos or a gallery of both, with over 1,400 artworks available directly from Samsung. Leaning into the picture frame camouflage, it can be mounted flush against the wall with next to no indication that it’s anything but a static piece. £399 – £1,299, samsung.com

Now that the commute to work is becoming a more regular reality, it’s worth investing in some serious noise-cancelling headphones. That’s if, of course, you actually want to hear your music over the screeching of the London Underground. This pair from Sony not only cancel out exterior noise, but offer superb sound quality, connectivity to your web of devices and comfort for when you’re being held at a red signal. Again. £350, sony.co.uk

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EPICUREAN

Taste is everything, especially when it comes to, well, taste

CHABLIS LES CLOS 2019

If you’re not sure what kind of wine to get the oenophile in your life, take a shortcut and head to Best of Wines. The boutique wine merchant curates their collection with an obsessive palate, to the point where pretty much anything you buy will be among the best in its class – such as this Chablis Grand Cru from Domaine Cinvent Dauvissat. The 2019 vintage offers sleek and powerful flavours with plenty of apple and citrus on the nose, a spicy flavour and languorously long, bone-dry finish. It’s chardonnay at its finest.

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Think of it as a tasting party in a box. Or as your new obsession

€301.29 (approx. £250), bestofwines.com

THE CHEESE COLLECTIVE THE FIEND SUBSCRIPTION What pairs best with wine? Cheese! And The Cheese Collective has plenty of that. Alongside their taster boxes and individual cheeses, the British brand offers subscriptions to monthly boxes of awardwinning British cheeses. The Fiend is their option for serious brie hounds and stilton chasers, containing eight to 10 hand-picked options along with information and flavour profiles for each. Oh and not a fan of blue cheese? No problem, drop it as an option. Think of it as a tasting party in a box. Or as your new obsession. £55, thecheesecollective.co.uk

epicurean

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Despite its diminutive size, this thing can hit 400°C for a wood-fired style pizza

SAGE SMART OVEN PIZZAIOLO Benchtop ovens are nifty little things, but just can’t get to the temperatures required to make a good pizza. It’s tragic. That is until the latest Sage Smart Oven, the Pizzaiolo. Despite its diminutive size, this thing can hit 400°C for a wood-fired style pizza with brick oven performance. If your oven’s just not getting that signature Italian char to the base, then this is what you need in your life. You can also use it for non-pizza foods, whatever they are. £729.95, sageappliances.com

BOOS BLOCKS ULTIMATE CARVING BOARD If Sunday roasts are becoming a bit of a mess – we’ve all been there – Boos Blocks have the solution with their Ultimate Carving Board. It has a pyramid construction to stop the meat from moving; a juice groove to collect all that flavour otherwise lost under the knife and a stainless steel tray for offcuts. Given that for most of us, Christmas dinner is the only reason to see the family for the holidays, this might just make it that bit less of a mess. As far as the turkey is concerned at any rate. £299, harrods.com

epicurean

LA PAVONI ESPERTO ABILE COFFEE MACHINE If coffee pods are anathema to your delicately refined taste buds, get a more refined morning buzz with this sculptural coffee machine from La Pavoni. The steampunk construction of wood, chrome and levers not only looks the part of a dedicated barista, but has everything you need to get that alchemically perfect cup of caffeine, right down to curating the ideal water pressure. From espresso to cappuccino, the coffee world is your slightly twitchy oyster. £1,199, lapavoni.com

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From espresso to cappuccino, the coffee world is your slightly twitchy oyster

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SARTORIALIST

Post lockdown it’s time to make a second first impression – and look good doing it

BENNETT WINCH BRIEF IN SAND Versatility is key to a good bag. Given that there’s barely anything The Brief can’t do, it has that box ticked in bold. The fact that it’s from British leather specialists Bennet Winch ticks pretty much all the rest. Slimline in design yet deceptively roomy, it works with laptops, luggage, on the shoulder, off the shoulder, business, casual and everything in-between. It’s exhausting. It’s also available in a few different colourways but the sand canvas, with its highcontrast leather trim and brass fittings is the coolest of the lot. £650, bennettwinch.com

gift guide

GLENFIDDICH X MR PORTER Speaking of… this sartorially inspired bottle combines the classical Scotch profile that’s been the hallmark of Glenfiddich for centuries with the sartorial expertise of online menswear brand MR PORTER. The complex 20-year-old whisky is smooth, silky and solera-aged to combine three different types of cask. Suited and booted in a bespoke, crisp white number with a monogrammed interior, this is the best dressed Scotch in the world. With just 1,500 bottles worldwide though, you might want to get in there quick. High street this is not. £300, glenfiddich.com

sartorialist

TOM DIXON WHISKY GLASSES Copper and glass is a combination that’s been helping define Tom Dixon’s interior designs for years, the kind you’ll find in luxury hotels, apartments, you name it. Now anyone with an appreciation of that ultra-luxe look and equally high-end whisky can combine the two with this handsome pair of copper-banded glasses. Mouthblown for a sculptural effect, they’re definitely a cut above your traditional cut-crystal. Classic Scotch need not apply. £60, selfridges.com

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This is about as authentic as these things get, not harvested but collected from when the animals malt

NORLHA STRIPED FELTED YAK BLANKET Even if you’ve not been able to travel much recently, you can let the world come to you. Case in point, this hand-felted blanket from the Tibetan Plateau. Sourced from the first ever yak khullu workshop in the area, this is about as authentic as these things get, not harvested but collected from when the animals malt. In vibrant red and yellow, its low environmental impact is offset by its high visual appeal, offering a slice of ancient hand craftsmanship a world away from the mass-produced. You can be pretty sure you won’t see another quite like it. £1,350, norlha.com

sartorialist

EDWARD GREEN CADOGAN Like puppies, Edward Green shoes aren’t just for Christmas, they’re for life. Unlike with puppies, that’s actually a good thing. And if you’re going to have a pair of perfectly-crafted British shoes around for that long, you’ll want to stick with the classics – a category the Cadogan semi-brogues fall neatly into. With their rounded, traditional profile and thick, dark brown antique leather, they’re built to age as well as a fine wine. They’re particularly accommodating of wide feet so if your usual shoes pinch a bit, you’re welcome. £965, edwardgreen.com

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Like puppies, Edward Green shoes aren’t just for Christmas, they’re for life

SERENGETI LENWOOD SUNGLASSES Gloriously glamorous in champagne acetate, this pair of sunnies is good for more than pretending you’re sunning yourself on the Riviera. The anti-reflective, gradient lenses are specifically aimed at drivers, blocking light coming from above but leaving a clearer picture of road level. They’re also tempered against wear and tear to keep them effective season after season. The fact that these lenses come in a warm, vintage brown almost hides the fact that they’re about as cutting-edge as sunglasses can get. £230, serengeti-eyewear.com

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FOPE 18CT WHITE GOLD EKA BRACELET You’ll have probably wandered past Fope’s Bond Street boutique at some point, but now there’s reason for the more masculine among us to head inside the Italian jeweller. The brand’s new men’s line translates the key tenets of the brand into a new range of modern, manly pieces. Take the Eka, for example. Combining a flexible bracelet with a black rhodium-plated hexagon set with black diamonds, it’s high jewellery with an urban, industrial twist. It has the same quality as the women’s pieces of course, but it marks a distinctly different era of everyday luxury.

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It’s high jewellery with an urban, industrial twist

£2,740, fope.com

BABYLISS SUPER-X METAL SERIES Looking good’s not all about the clothes and it’s about time you pruned that unruly hedge you’ve been cultivating over the past few months into some semblance of acceptability. Consider this professional-standard trimmer set the follicle gardener of your dreams. The BaBylis Super-X 15-in-1 trimmer comes with a full set of comb guides, a Japanese steel precision trimmer and a fast-charging lithium ion battery in case you forget to plug it in overnight. Whatever facial hair you aim to grow, this is the perfect tool for the job. £120, babyliss.co.uk

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PETROLHEAD

When the only Christmas Carol that matters is the revving of a V12 in the cold

VESARO VR STAGE 2 Track days are fully booked for the foreseeable so if you want to get your laps around Silverstone in, you’ll need to look elsewhere. The plus though is that with Vesaro’s incredibly realistic VR set-up, you can schedule in your track day whenever you want, as many times as you want. Offering 2Gs of force across three axes and unsurpassed VR vision courtesy of the latest Oculus Rift, you’ll feel every skid and turn as if you’re there. It’s also plug and play, so you can get revving straight out of the box.

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While it might not boast an engine of any degree, it’s still made in Italy

£18,852, vesaro.com

ALFA ROMEO 4C DOWNHILL SKATEBOARD The makers of some of the most beautiful Italian cars in history have apparently gone street. This lowered longboard makes use of the marque’s obsession with carbon fibre and while it might not boast an engine of any degree, it’s still made in Italy. Oh, and if you were worried about your new Alfa Romeo board breaking down, rest assured that it’s been tested by world downhill champion Luca Gianmarco. £1,040.99, alfaaccessories.com

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petrolhead

PULLMAN EDITIONS PORSCHE 2.7 CARRERA RS – LECH Bringing a slice of Art Deco nostalgia to the automotive world, Pullman Editions have leveraged their unique style to produce this magnificent apres ski scene centred around a trio of Porsche Carreras. Created by artist Charles Avalon, the poster is a snowy ode to what many consider the greatest 911 of all time. At the very least, this chic winter scene is a world away from the usual car posters we’ve come across. Even if you weren’t a petrolhead, it’s a stunner.

BERLINETTA FILMS If you already have your pride and joy completely restored to its original, beautiful condition, you might want to record the feat for posterity. Enter Berlinetta Films, a British-based specialist in four- and two-wheeled filmography. They’ll guide you through the entire experience to get the most out of your time and, of course, your car, whether that’s sedate long shots and sweeping vistas or some dirty, rugged off-roading. If you’re a classic rally regular, this is a must. What better way to show off your motor than giving it a starring role?

£420, pullmaneditions.com

Prices start from £2,500, berlinettafilms.com

BOND CARS: THE DEFINITIVE HISTORY From a submersible Lotus Esprit S1 to the undying classic that is the minigunequipped DB5, Bond has a special place in automotive history. Even when the cars aren’t going invisible, the 007 franchise has committed some of the most iconic motors ever built to the silver screen – and this definitive coffee table book will take you through them all, with everything from call sheets to interviews to illustrate why and how the cars maketh the man. £50, amazon.co.uk

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Bond has a special place in automotive history

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HER

The one gift you really, really can’t get wrong

MICHEL HERBELIN ANTARÈS LIMITED EDITION Rectangular watches are back in vogue, but that doesn’t mean you should be lining up to get a Tank or Reverso. For something equally vintage in style but with a slightly more modern twist, French watch brand Michel Herbelin has the Antarès. Along with the lovely diamond-set case with its midnight blue mother-ofpearl, the watch comes with a trio of interchangeable straps to switch up the style whenever you want, whether that’s the retro four-link bracelet or the sumptuous velvet with Jouy print.

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£2,150, michel-herbelin.com

A general rule of thumb is to keep away from fragrance as a gift

CHANEL COCO MADEMOISELLE EAU DE PARFUM TWIST AND SPRAY A general rule of thumb is to keep away from fragrance as a gift – it comes across a bit thoughtless – but this has two things that make it an exception. First, it’s Chanel. Second, the fragrance comes in a handy twist and spray bottle for a little refresher on the move. It’s easily portable, safe against leakage and best of all can be repeatedly refilled. £105, chanel.com

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her

SLEEPER FEATHER PYJAMA SET We’re all spending a bit more time in our PJs than we’re perhaps ready to admit, so why not make it a party? This breathable black set adds a flamboyant ostrich feather trim to the mix, elevating the humble bedtime ensemble into something far more elegant. They’re spun from a soft woven fabric made using absolutely no harmful substances, so you have more reason than just looking good to sleep easy at night.

CARTIER LOVE BRACELET

£230, farfetch.com

An absolute classic, the Love bracelet is one of Cartier’s most enduring designs – which is saying something. The mix of precious metal and industrial chic have made it a must-have for the fashionable across the world – though getting hold of one these days is easier said than done. Just make sure you wrap it up tight; one glimpse of that signature red box and the gig is up. Oh, and definitely don’t lose the screwdriver. £6,250, cartier.com

FASHION IN FILM BY CHRISTOPHER LAVERY Looking for vintage inspiration for your modern wardrobe? The silver screen has it in spades, from Audrey Hepburn’s Givenchy in Breakfast at Tiffany’s to Diane Keaton’s masculine style in Annie Hall, all of which have been committed to the pages of this visually stunning hardback edition. Alongside the stills, the book includes working sketches from the labels behind the looks and fashion shots illustrating the inspiration behind them. £30, waterstones.com

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Looking for vintage inspiration for your wardrobe?

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FOR THE

gift guide

KIDS

Because they can’t have a puppy every Christmas

LITTLE CAR COMPANY DB5 JUNION Revolving license plates? Check. Machine guns behind the headlights? Double check. In fact, the only thing this 66% scale DB5 is lacking is the engine – though the 45mph top speed certainly isn’t slow for a kid’s car. It even has a smoke screen and a skid mode, so make sure your would-be superspy doesn’t take their disappearing act too far. And yes, there’s room for an adult, because you know you’ll be the first to give it a go. £35,000, thelittlecar.co

NINTENDO SWITCH OLED It probably comes as little surprise that this is one of the biggest things in Japan right now, combining the portable pseudo console that ushered in the glorious current era of Nintendo with a gorgeous OLED screen. It’s bigger, better and bolder than ever, with a ton of new games coming soon – at least a couple of which you’re morally obliged to bundle in with the Switch. If you can wait for it to come back into stock, at least. £309, store.nintendo.co.uk

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It’s bigger, better and bolder than ever, with a ton of new games

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kids

LEGO TITANIC

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This gargantuan ode to the Titanic is fittingly, well, titanic

The days of watching your kids finish their grand Lego set like an oddly constructive whirlwind are gone, not because the Swedish brick-makers have made it too difficult, but because this gargantuan ode to the Titanic is fittingly, well, titanic. Made of over 9,000 parts, this is a serious project, a perfect replica of the 1911 ship that could not be sunk ideal for a budding historian. At over 1.3 metres long though, you might struggle to find space for it. £569.99, lego.com

GRAVITRAX PRO 27019 EXTREME START SE Part classic marble run, part STEM-focused lesson on gravity and kinetics, this set of walls, pillars, and balconies can be built in myriad ways to create ever more ambitious tracks. Start with a simple A to B, following the included blurprints. Then, slowly get more intricate until you’re at a Rube Goldberg level of traversal. Add in a few magnets and you have a scientific toy that’ll have your kids on track in more ways than one. £89.99, johnlewis.com

POTTERY BARN CHELSEA ALL-IN-1 KITCHEN Every kid should learn to cook; get them started early with this all-in-one kitchen set, combining everything a would-be Michelin star chef could need. Fit for a country kitchen in cream and brass and with a level of durability and fade resistance to last a couple of generation’s hard cooking. It has a stove, oven, refrigerator and sink, just make sure it doesn’t put your adult-sized version to shame. £499, potterybarnkids.co.uk

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FOR THE

gift guide

OUTDOORSMAN

The call of adventure beckons now more than ever

PATAGONIA ISTHMUS THREE-IN-ONE JACKET You never know what the weather’s going to throw at you. With the Isthmus jacket, that’s completely fine. The three-in-one piece offers a waterproof outer shell, a warm fleece underlayer and with their powers combined, make for a serious winter jacket. As well as protection against the elements, its reassuring to note that the Isthmus is Fair Trade sewn and made using 68% recycled fabrics. Looks good, feels good, does good. £320, eu.patagonia.com

MYRQVIST DUVED DARK BROWN SUEDE The hiking shoe for non-hikers – or the everyday boot for adventurers, whichever way you care to look at it – the Duved from Scandinavian brand MYRQVIST are the best of both worlds. While its profile might look more like your classic everyday boot, there are performance touches aplenty, from the water-repellent suede and membrane to the commando rubber sole. They embody the ultimate adage of the British weather: hope for the best, prepare for the worst. And they do it in style. £239, myrqvist.co.uk

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outdoorsman

STERIPEN ADVENTURER

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The great outdoors beckons now more than ever, but like any great adventure, it’s all about preparation – like ensuring you have clean water. This portable little pen uses UV light to purify any water you come across, meaning no chemicals needed. Just stir your water with the pen and off you go – clean, drinkable water whenever you need it. It’s even USB rechargeable – though if you can manage that out and about you probably don’t need the SteriPen.

The incredibly compact multitool is a powerhouse of selfsufficiency

£88,95, alpinetrek.co.uk

LEATHERMAN SURGE Knowing how to use every attachment on this heavyduty mass of sharpened metal tools is a rite of passage in and of itself. Containing 21 separate implements – knives, openers and wire cutters aplenty - the incredibly compact multi-tool is a powerhouse of self-sufficiency. Even if everything else lets you down, the Surge won’t. Want to make a survivalist statement on your next camping strip? This is it.

BUSHCRAFT 101: A FIELD GUIDE TO THE ART OF WILDERNESS SURVIVAL

£169, leatherman.com

Forget Bear Grylls; if there’s one guy that knows how to survive in the wilderness, it’s Dave Canterbury. He literally wrote the book on the subject – a book that just so happens to be one of the most useful bits of reading for any would-be outdoorsman. From building your kit to finding food, Bushcraft 101 will have you living off the land in no time, whether for a weekend jaunt or a isolationist escape. £13.99, amazon.co.uk

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Bushcraft 101 will have you living off the land in no time

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hands-on reviews

THE SPECS

• 43mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Calibre 9908 manual-wind movement with 60-hour power reserve • £7,410, omegawatches.com

HANDS-ON WITH THE

OMEGA

SPEEDMASTER CHRONOSCOPE Are three scales better than one? Omega seem to think so

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omega chronoscope

I love a good scale. Other than yellow dials it’s kind of my thing. Tachymeters have that racing heritage, pulsometers some vintage flair, telemeters… are around. They all have their (largely redundant) uses and they all look cool in different ways. That first has been around plenty, but these days both pulsometers and telemeters are making a bit of a comeback among all the retro vintage throwbacks appearing at the moment. Not to be left out, Omega has decided to outdo the competition with their new release. But which do you go for when designing a watch? Which scale do you choose? To whichever question Omega answers, ‘yes.’ The Speedmaster Chronoscope has it all. Tachymeters are obviously nothing new to Omega; with the advent of the Speedmaster they were the first brand to mount the speed over distance scale on the bezel and it’s been a defining element of the collection ever since, including here. But the watchmaker’s been making chronographs for far, far longer than that, a history that the Chronoscope is a fitting tribute to. At the centre of the dial there are three different scales. There’s the repeat of the Tachymeter in the middle, at the below 60 mark missing off the bezel scale; then there’s the telemeter, furthest out which measures distance based on the speed of sound in the middle. Finally, nestled between the two, is the pulsometer which is relatively self-explanatory (it measures a pulse). There are four different dial variations available: a classic Panda, a version that switches the black for blue and this, which I guess you could call a reverse blue panda. It’s the most unusual of the three and in my opinion, the most handsome, other than perhaps the bronze gold version if you don’t mind the substantial price uptick. All four pieces have an upsized, 43mm case, which while a small change on paper does feel a fair bit bigger on the wrist. I like it but Speedy devotees might not. It’s paired with a shiny new bracelet that might be Omega’s best to date. With a slight allusion to the 1980s, the micro-adjustable strap is fantastic, comfortable and precisely machined. Here’s hoping it’s the new standard for Speedmasters. The caseback is downright glorious. The new, manualwind Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 is solid on a specs sheet with the certification that only Omega and Tudor go in for, but it also looks bloody beautiful. Geneva waves across the German-style ¾ plate, red-inlaid lettering and an expansive sapphire crystal to show it all off, it’s a serious piece of work. So far, so good. But what are the downsides? Well, my main issue with the Chronoscope is the sizing. I don’t mean because it measures in at 43mm; that’s understandable given the amount of information that needs to be displayed. It’s more that Omega don’t seem to have tried to fit too much into it. The scales at the centre of the dial are harder to read than they need to be, and where they cross the chronograph subdials it’s all a bit much. I’m not sure how they could have avoided it. Pushing one to the outer edge would have helped considerably, even if it meant getting rid of the minute track, but that would’ve

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With a slight allusion to the 1980s, the microadjustable strap is fantastic, comfortable and precisely machined. Here’s hoping it’s the new standard for Speedmasters thrown the aesthetic balance out considerably. I’d have likely ditched the inner tachymeter, but that slightly defeats the Chronoscope’s USP. Still, that’s not necessarily a downside that most wearers will care about. Sure, you might occasionally use a tachymeter trackside for novelty value, but who actively uses a telemeter or pulsometer? The slightly awkward readability is, when you get down to it, a non-issue. Overall, I love the look of the Chronoscope. The contrast subdials, the rings of numerals, even the throwback leafshaped hands are magnificent. It’s like all of the Breitling Premier Heritage chronographs distilled into one. £7,410, omegawatches.com

hands-on reviews

THE SPECS

• 44mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Swiss made manual-wind movement with 48-hour power reserve • € 3,790 (approx. £3,200), allemanotime.it

HANDS-ON WITH THE

ALLEMANO MAN As one of the loudest automotive watches, Allemano’s history of pressure gauge production is unmistakeable

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hands-on reviews

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allemano man

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allemano man

Automotive watches – however you care to define that pretty nebulous term – are a dime a dozen these days. At the one end you have cool, accessible fun like the watches of Omologato (more on them in our In Focus section); at the other the eye-roll inducing limited editions from larger brands that just paint their standard collection in racing livery. I’m looking at you, Breitling. It’s easy for an interesting watch to get lost in the noise of revving engines and automotive posturing. Fortunately, I doubt the Allemano Man will ever blend into the crowd. If you’ve not heard of the brand before – and honestly, I wouldn’t blame you – it might come as a surprise that they’ve been building instruments since 1919. Granted, said instruments were for measuring pressure and temperature for the military and, funnily enough, Fiat, but it’s a worthy heritage, nonetheless. In fact, it’s worth remembering those pressure gauges when looking at the brand’s current collection. Released back in 2019 (perhaps not the most auspicious time to relaunch a brand), the collection consists of the Day, the GMT and the Man, the latter of which is what we have here. Its dimensions are something else. The name Man comes from Manometer, an instrument used to measure pressure. That link is pretty obvious from a profile view of the case, which looks wonderfully ludicrous, sitting incredibly high off the wrist. Don’t let that put you off too much though; it’s not actually as thick as it looks. A good part of that height it simply from where the strap is attached to the case, sitting the case on top. It’s still chunky at 44mm across, but wearable. That pressure gauge theme follows through to the dial too, which a la a regulator splits seconds, minutes and hours apart. Retrograde minutes, that is, placed at 12 o’clock. Sure, they might be taking their inspiration a little bit too far, but it’s a cool layout nonetheless, especially in the more paredback cream colour. The black’s a bit intense. The movement powering the whole thing is a hand-wound, Swiss-made number with a 48-hour power reserve, nicely visible through the exhibition caseback with its Geneva bars. It’s finished on a chunky leather strap with a touch of embossing and the Italian colours of green, white and red. There’s a lot going on with the Allemano Man. It reminds me most of what Reservoir have done over the years, retrograde and all. Though where they tend to have most of the action on the dial, Allemano have really committed. It’s the kind of watch I can imagine on the wrist of a burly Italian mechanic, fixing up a vintage car in his workshop

Sure, they might be taking their inspiration a little bit too far, but it’s a cool layout nonetheless, especially in the more paredback cream colour 116

near Maranello. That’s where the Allemano Man would find its true calling. I, unfortunately, am a skinny Brit that only really knows spanners as a concept. Even so, I genuinely did enjoy my time with this watch. A good part of that is because I like the unusual and the kind of watches that have people asking what on Earth I have on my wrist. I got a fair bit of that with Allemano, and generally positively. And after the initial oddness of wearing a pressure gauge, it was actually one of the more comfortable pieces I’ve reviewed. That’s not to say I’ll be ordering one for myself. At €3,790, it’s a serious investment. But I can appreciate why someone more mechanically minded (and ideally in possession of a 1920s Fiat) would. In fact, for that person in a million, I can’t imagine a more satisfying piece. €3,790 (approx. £3,200), allemanotime.it

CULTURE — wine

Stocking stuffers Words: Aidy Smith

TALBOTT VINEYARDS SLEEPY HOLLOW CHARDONNAY 2016

It feels slightly awkward saying this, but Christmas really isn’t that far away now. It’s time to start paying attention to all those new discoveries we can get our hands on before they disappear so we can spread a little festive joy to our loved ones. Actually, who am I kidding? They’re just for us…

Say hello to the ‘Grand Cru’ vineyards of the Santa Lucia Highlands in California. With vines ranging from eight to 45 years old, this Chardonnay dream packs a punch of flavour. Apple, pear and tropical notes combine with a gentle vanilla brioche, a rich opulent mouthfeel and a zesty acidity on the finish that never seems to end. A classic that will never disappoint. £36 from Secret Bottle Shop

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A rich opulent mouthfeel and a zesty acidity on the finish that never seems to end

TEMPUS TWO CHARDONNAY 2019

HENRIOT ROSE 2012 Don’t you just love a good vintage rosé? This heroic Chardonnay and pinot noir blend made from 100% premier and grand cru wines really tickles the spot. You’ve heard me bang on about ‘texture’ before and this champers has just that. Lashings of strawberries, red berries, blackberries and a creaminess from five years on lees that seals the deal. Feeling romantic? £61 per bottle from L’Assemblage (minimum of 6)

Tempus Two is the winechild of McGuigan, a winery that continues to impress me every year. New technology and winemaking skills are allowing them to push the boundaries of taste and enjoyment there’s a reason they have some of the best selling wines in the UK. Hunter Valley and the Adelaide Hills combine to create this irresistible 12-month aged Chardonnay. Subtle oak meets white peach and melon with a dollop of pineapple and creamy spice. A steal for the price, to be honest. £13 from Sainsbury’s

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CULTURE — wine

ORIN SWIFT ABSTRACT I always love it when a bottle of wine tastes as good as it looks. Orin Swift have a bit of an eye for contemporary design and Abstract is no exception to that. The mosaic of images follows its namesake by showcasing an assemblage of Grenache, Petite Sirah and Syrah, a trio of which when blended correctly form a unity of elegance. Blueberry, plum and ripe raspberries jump from the glass with an enchanting cherry, sweet cassis and dark chocolate with dried lavender. Textured, dark and full of life. £40 from Majestic

CORAVIN SPARKLING What seemed impossible to create has finally hit the shelves. Greg Lambrecht, the founder of Coravin is an absolute genius. His vision and innovation has single-handedly changed the way people can experience wines. His first invention was a wine preservation system. Inspired by his work as a surgeon he devised a technologically savvy way to extract wine from a natural cork sealed bottle with a tiny needle. Without ever pulling the cork, you can enjoy your favourite wines for years. Having now launched several models to preserve still wines, this is his first foray into the sparkling world and it’s certainly landed with a pop. You can now open and store champagnes for up to four weeks without them losing their sparkle. Yes, you read that correctly. So, if you’re the type of person who opens a lot of fizz only to find it going flat - fear no more. £400 from Coravin

WEINGUT VON WINNING UNGEHEUER GG 2016 We don’t praise German wines anywhere near as much as we should so let’s make up for some of that. In fact, Germany produces some of THE best riesling in the world. Not just the sweet stuff either, there’s such a vast spectrum when it comes to this grape. This example is super complex, aromatic and sexy. Yes, sexy. The ‘GG’ refers to Großes Gewächs, basically meaning ‘great growth’ (i.e. the highest possible classification for dry wines). Think dry apricot, umami, smoke, peach, nectarine and a subtle earthiness. Decant this wonder before drinking, it’s unlike any Riesling you’ve ever had. £46 from Humble Grape

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There’s such a vast spectrum when it comes to this grape

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CULTURE — spirits

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PINEAU DES CHARENTES

Check out the Logo Nebro cocktail and El Bandido if you really want to have some fun!

I’ll try to contain myself you’ve read about my escapades with The Last Drop quite frequently and they’ve only gone and brought out yet another jaw-dropper. This time, an ultra-aged Pineau des Charentes which was found buried behind a cellar wall. In the months before World War II, this vin de liqueur was hidden behind a hastily built wall of rubble to hide it from the quickly approaching armed forces. For those wondering, this gem is a classic French aperitif that is unique to the Cognac region. Produced in the early years of the 20th century, I don’t think there’s anything quite like this about. You could say it’s the ‘last drop’. Expect volume, intensity and a distinct richness within this old, rare and stunningly delectable Pineau des Charentes. Find out more at lastdropdistillers.com

HONEYBELL SPICED RUM This small batch beauty is distilled right here in Britain and to top it off, it’s infused with honey alongside a plethora of sustainably sourced botanicals. Extracting only the heart of the distillation to ensure the best possible liquid finds its way into the bottle, they’re even donating towards the conservation of bees too. After all, someone’s got to create that nectar! Smooth and rich with a gentle spice and soothing honey sweetness. You’ll bee in heaven. £38 from Master of Malt

MONTELOBOS ENSAMBLE JOVEN MEZCAL If you’re a fan of tequila then it’s about time you started venturing into the Mezcal world. The agavebased cousin contains espadin, tobala and papalote agave in a divine blend that gives a more smokedriven and heracious kick. Think roasted apple, smoky green pepper, tarragon, thyme and a mineralrich smoke with red cherries. One for those who like to discover. Check out the Logo Nebro cocktail and El Bandido if you really want to have some fun! £58.99 from Master of Malt

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CULTURE — spirits

ATLAS CHAI GIN I hope you’re as intrigued as I was, because chai and gin are two words I haven’t seen together before. Chai was originally a welcome drink given to a court by royalty, however over time it’s lost that eminence. Atlas wants to bring that back. Selecting fine masala chai from India, they’ve interwoven an assortment of traditional (and not so traditional) botanicals such as pimento berries and Assam black tea to give a warm, spicy and balanced gin to welcome your palate. Basically, you’re now royalty. Congratulations. £48 from AtlasGins.com

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Chai was originally a welcome drink given to a court by royalty, however over time it’s lost that eminence

BARDINET COFFEE You’ve heard of Bailey’s and Tia Maria, but the truth is there’s a whole lot of other really exciting products on the market. Bardinet Coffee is one of them, which just recently launched. If you’ve got a thing for the coffee bean, then this brandy with arabica and robusta coffee is going to tickle you in all the right places. Think hot chocolate, milk punches and even adding a little bit to your… wait for it… coffee. It makes for a great addition to so many sweet-based cocktails and is the perfect mixer. Release your inner mixologist and check it out. Find out more at bardinet.fr

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anantara kihavah

WORDS:

AIDY SMITH

PARADISE FOUND

FROM THE PAINFULLY PICTURESQUE TO THE EPICUREAN, AIDY SMITH DISCOVERED ANANTARA KIHAVAH

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anantara kihavah

Have you ever closed your eyes and envisioned yourself sitting on white sand shores looking out across endless turquoise seas? A place so serene, it’s almost like you’re in a trance without a care in the world. A luxurious slice of heaven doesn’t even begin to describe Anantara Kihavah. My latest dose of said serenity saw me traveling to the remote island in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Yes, the Maldives. This picturesque oasis is indeed what you’ve imagined from having seen all of the photos, in fact, it actually looks better in person. The subject of this particular story is, a retreat that holds a reputation as being one of the most tranquil getaways on the planet.

It all starts with the moment a hand reaches out to help you off the boat that has brought you ashore. Inspired by nature’s magnitude, mystery, and enchanting beauty, you can’t help but think you’ve been transported back in time to a place where simplicity was everything, yet there’s a refined luxury that sits effortlessly in the background. No phone, no laptop, no worries, just letting your mind peacefully wander through the jungle pathways, feeling the warm equator breeze against your skin. The Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas are tucked away on a private island, which is found on the Baa Atoll in the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The history of the island goes back to when it was a

Guests don’t have to travel far to experience paradise from a Maldives water villa or Indian Ocean beachfront, as they can dip their toes in crystal clear water on the doorstep of their own villa for an immediate taste of tranquillity

As expected, the beach surrounding the island is stunning and as you venture out to the more remote stretches, they become even more turquoise, evermore blissful 124

pitstop for Arab traders navigating the waters by sail from archipelago to archipelago. Overflowing with mango, coconut, and papaya trees, the Anantara Kihavah island was in no short supply of edible goods and canopy coverage from the elements. Additionally, the aesthetic appeal of the island paired with the local pre-historic volcano, colorful coral reefs, and clear nights full of stars drew in seafarers from around the globe. Such attractions are why the Anantara resort found its home and fame. The design of the resort has kept the well-being of the natural island in mind. No tree was removed in its construction; everything was built into and around the lush vegetation. The end result marries Indian Ocean, Arab and Portuguese motifs with indigenous materials in the 80 available villas, either on the ocean or over private pools. You can imagine the most Instagrammable hotel hashtag is a fair title. As expected, the beach surrounding the island is stunning and as you venture out to the more remote stretches, they become even more turquoise, evermore blissful. You may even find yourself as I did, gently lifting your sunglasses every now and again to truly appreciate just how crystal clear the ocean really is. When looking to book a stay, consider which of these two matches your designed holiday vibe: Maldives water villa or Indian Ocean beachfront. With the latter, your shoes will be off and the ivory sands will be tracked everywhere. You’ll hear the waves crashing and view the classic beach sunsets every night. But, if sand is your foe, enjoy your very own private infinity pool instead for that early morning swim, or take an afternoon snooze on your swinging daybed. Of course, each villa, no matter its location on the island, comes equipped with the latest technology and entertainment for your comfort. Every detail thoughtfully considered with the guest in mind: fluffy pillows, soap menus, beach totes complete with sandals, wine fridge, yoga mats, bicycles, and more! The villas and residences at Anantara can host anywhere between one and twelve guests. It might be tempting to relax the days away in your villa, but there is so much

anantara kihavah

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anantara kihavah

to explore on the island. The vibrant green foliage is a sight to see whether on foot or bike. Be sure to pack your camera or phone to snap some shots for Instagram to make all your followers just a tad jealous of this tropical getaway. Head over to the spa or wellness centres for a taste of true tranquillity. Harmony and holisticness sit at the core of your desired treatments. As the sunsets cast your eyes to the sky with one of the largest telescopes in the world. See the far expanse of the universe, planets, star constellations and galaxies like you never dreamed was possible. The true highlight, however, just might be the dining options. If you’ve ever fancied a little mermaid experience, you can indeed dine under the sea. Land choices are available too. Whether your day calls for small bites or entrees, Anantara has you covered. Each restaurant and their offerings are inspired by the surrounding environment under the theme SEA. FIRE.SPICE.SKY. You’ll have varying cuisine selections complete with a gorgeous Indian Ocean backdrop. Foodies especially are sure to gawk over the whole experience. Then there’s the wine, led by Sommelier Arun. I’d go as far as saying this paradise has one of the most impressive wine lists in the Maldives and the knowledge behind it perhaps the most credible in this part of the world. From the second I arrived my wine choices were looked after – every occasion had a delectable moment only heightened as your tastebuds intertwine with the incredible views before you. If wine is your passion and you’re debating which Maldives property to visit – your decision has just been made. Chatting away with Arun and his team about their worldwide experiences and passions for the grape and grain made the visit even more worthwhile. This island hosts a family of people, built on a foundation of passion and love for what they do and that couldn’t gleam more brightly. Ultimately, this is one of those places you build an emotional bond with. When you arrive, you are filled with excitement and wonder, ready to

A stay at Anantara Kihavah comes with a range of enviably challenging choices, as guests must decide between dining on land or beneath the sea, navigate the extensive wine list with the help of Sommelier Arun and then somehow find time to explore the surrounding colourful coral reef

This paradise has one of the most impressive wine lists in the Maldives and the knowledge behind it perhaps the most credible in this part of the world re-connect, listen and evolve. When you leave, you are sad, as if a part of you will be missing. It’s true – places like this are much more than just a ‘holiday destination’ – they impact our ability to truly think about our lives, our feelings, our purpose and whether we realise it or not upon returning to our homes, they leave a notion of

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inspiration – an inspiration to one day return and feel that sense of serenity once more. This doesn’t have to be some offshore, distant dream. Book your stay at the magnificent Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas today. The island is calling you to sail away. For more information visit anantara.com

CULTURE — food & drink

EDITED BY MICHAEL SONSINO

RESTAURANT &BAR

NEWS

The story for a long time in the hospitality industry has been about the pandemic, but now the majority of restaurants and bars have been able to open continuously for a couple of months. That means many new businesses are feeling confident enough to finally open their doors, for existing names to expand to new locations, and even experiment with exciting new menus.

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CULTURE — food & drink

← BENARES

12a Berkeley Square, Mayfair, W1J 6BS Benares is a well-established name in London’s Indian cuisine scene and they also hold the distinction of being the only Indian restaurant in the entire UK to have earned a new Michelin star this year. Chef Sameer Taneja used the lockdown to experiment with new tasting menus, which are available now. The new menus seek to provide a playful twist on classics and include dishes like tandoori muntjac. Book now at benaresrestaurant.com

They hold the distinction of being the only Indian restaurant in the UK to have earned a new Michelin star this year

They meet the highest levels of sustainability and are only the second restaurant to attain that in the UK

↑ MISCUSI

23 Slingsby Place, Covent Garden, WC2E 9AB Miscusi have already made a name for themselves in Italy where their authentic pasta is the star of the show. Following the success of their home restaurants, they are branching out with their first UK site set in Covent Garden. There is all the fresh pasta on offer that you could possibly want and you can even create your own dish by picking the pasta and the sauce of your desire. They also qualify as a B Corp restaurant meaning they meet the highest levels of sustainability and are only the second restaurant to attain that in the UK. Learn more at miscusi.com

↑ FRIENDS OF OURS

28 & 26 Ryeland Boulevard, Wandsworth, SW18 1UN If you prefer a hearty brunch then the Australian café and restaurant Friends of Ours is for you. They’ve operated successfully out of Hoxton for five years and now they’re expanding to a new site in Wandsworth, opening soon. The new location promises to be bigger with a larger menu. The name Friends of Ours comes from their belief in supporting local industries such as bakeries and coffee producers. If you’re a little further afield they also do take away. Find out more at friendsofourscafe.com

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↓ MOWGLI

Mowgli is a growing Indian restaurant chain that specialises in bringing street food style to your dining experience. They’re set to open a new site on Charlotte Street this month, a place any food enthusiast will likely be familiar with. The décor in their

restaurants is always exceptional; a fun fusion of rustic and industrial, with some locations even featuring swinging seats. Bookings for the new Charlotte Street site open on November 15. Find out more at mowglistreetfood.com

5 Charlotte Street, Fitzrovia, W1T 1RE

→ 116 PALL MALL

116 Pall Mall, St. James’s, SW1Y 5ED

Once the private wine cellars of the Prince of Wales and the United Service Club, 116 Pall Mall has been transformed into a luxurious underground champagne bar, which is now open. Curated by the Searcys group, the drinks menu includes all the champers you’d expect with bottles of Moët et Chandon, Drappier and Dom Pérignon, among others. There are also a number of snacks and light bites on offer, as well as more substantial meals like British Isles fish pie. Bookings available from sevenrooms.com

116 Pall Mall has been transformed into a luxurious underground champagne bar

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hors-série 1971

The finest

fizz

WORDS BY ROB BELLINGER

IS THERE ANYTHING MORE DECADENT THAN A FINE VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE? YES – THE HORS-SÉRIE 1971

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hors-série 1971

Before we get into what I consider one of the finest wines I’ve ever tasted, it’s worth taking the time for a bit of a booster lesson in what we mean by vintage Champagne. Champagne, perhaps more than any other region in the world, is the most regulated in terms of the production of its wines. This framework of rules runs from how you grow your vines, tend them, pick your grapes and how you vinify them. This gives great reassurance to the collector or drinker that the contents of the bottle they are about to consume will satisfy, in terms of quality and authenticity. Vintage Champagne takes this quality to a higher level. It should also be seen as a declaration by the winemaker of an outstanding year for their grapes transitioning into the resulting wine. It is important to note that not all Champagne houses will declare a vintage in the same year due to the different geographic locations of their vines. Think of a bottle of vintage Champagne as a whole year of weather, changing seasons and the skill of the Chef de Cave of that year brought together in a 750ml time capsule. The power of a good vintage is its capability to transport you, instantly back to a snapshot of a particular given year. The rules of Champagne state that a vintage bottle must have spent at least three years on its own ‘lees’, the deposits of sediment which are mainly yeasts that remain after fermentation. Through the process of autolysis, all of the sugars in the wine are consumed and the yeasts gradually die and decompose, releasing molecules that slowly transform as they interact with the wine. These add many of the autolytic flavours such a brioche or biscuit qualities that we associate with Champagne. Due to the long maturing process, these are more pronounced than in non-vintage Champagnes which only spend a minimum of 12 months with the wine contacting the lees. It is worth noting that European wine legislation requires only 90 days for effervescent wines in general.

The special ‘tirage stopper’ that seals the bottle at this point in its life allows tiny amounts of oxygen to enter the bottle and for small amounts of carbon dioxide to escape. In other words, the seal at this stage is not perfectly airtight. The choice of stopper helps determine the speed of the Champagne’s development and slowly oxidises the wine. These processes complement each other especially well in Champagne wines because of their delicacy and the effect they have through such gentle ageing is to add further aromas and flavours. After careful storage and sampling over the years, a cellar master will decide if a vintage is ready to be released. Imagine the excitement in the chalk cellars or ‘crayéres’ beneath Reims three months ago when Émilien Boutillat, the chief winemaker at Piper

Heidsieck, decided that the 1971 vintage was ready to be brought off its sediment, the sparkle to be added and acknowledged to be ready for market. By this time, the Champagne had been through the caring hands of four cellar masters over five decades and now launches a new collection of carefully selected vintage Champagnes under the Hors-Série banner. To remove the remaining sediment the neck of the bottle is frozen with liquid nitrogen and the resulting plug of ice is fired from the bottle by releasing the stopper. This process is called disgorgement and allows the winemaker to control the time of a wines release and also to arrest to a certain degree its development. However, the removal of the yeast deposits results in a loss of a small amount of wine in the bottle and its effervescence. This loss is topped up

The power of a good vintage is its capability to transport you, instantly back to a snapshot of a particular given year

The Piper Heidsieck Hors-Série 1971 vintage was brought off its sediment by chief winemaker Émilien Boutillat, who decided the 50-year-old vintage was ready to have the sparkle added and prepared for market

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hors-série 1971

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using a ‘liquor de dosage’ which can be a further factor to be used in determining the final sweetness of the wine and also some of its characters. This also allows a natural second fermentation to take place in the bottle, creating the bubbles we all crave. In the case of Hors-Série 1971, the challenge for Émilien was to concoct a liquor that was balanced in both acidity and sweetness, allowing the resulting top up to allow for bubble production while complimenting and not dominating the original matured wine. Add to this, a choice of any of the still wines from Champagne from the many plots at his disposal, and also a selection of sugars to choose from and you can see how subtly wines can be honed. You can now almost think of vintage Champagne as having further manipulative complexity; not just as a snapshot of a particular year but with the storage as patina and ageing of the photographic paper and the ‘top up’ as a very subtle filter that enhances and compliments the original image. On receiving one of just six glasses poured in London, the first thing you notice is the copper edged, deep golden colour. As you would expect with a 50-year-old Champagne the effervescence is discrete and the bubbles are small and gentle. The nose is of Dundee cake, damson and fig. This is undoubtedly one of the most luxurious and aromatic Champagnes I have ever smelt. As the aromas develop they move through liquorice, coffee, cloves, dark chocolate with hints of the Orient and dried flowers. Then follows the biggest surprise of all, in that on the palate the freshness that is characteristic of Piper Heidsieck is still there. In my experience, some old wines can be so cloying that you want to taste them but not ‘drink’ them. Hors-Série 1971 is undoubtedly a ‘drinker’, plucked by Émilien at just the right moment and given the twist of a sorcerer’s touch. In the mouth, there is pleasant, balanced acidity and a luxurious long velvety finish with vibrant citrus notes. Hors-Série 1971 is an exciting and invigorating wine that is taut and begs

Only 2,021 bottles of the luxurious and aromatic vintage will be released in a 1970s-inspired bespoke oak presentation box. Best enjoyed in front of an open fire with a slice of complimentary Comté cheese

OTHER VINTAGES TO BUY NOW: • Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2011 • Castelnau Blanc de blancs 2007 • Charles Heidsieck Blanc des millénaires 2006 • Drappier Grand Sendrée 2010

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to be drunk in front of an open fire. Accompany a glass with a slice of Comté cheese topped with grated ginger and turmeric or match at dinner with lamb or monkfish. Just 2,021 bottles are being released of this first in the new collection with a subtle nod to the 1970s on its bespoke oak presentation box. So buy it, but quickly, as after 50 years of slumber, this is a bottle of Champagne that is ready to party seventies style. Score: 96/100

CULTURE — unsung heroes

Words:

Ken Kessler

UNSUNG VINTAGE HERO:

ROLEX THUNDERBIRD Rolex doesn’t have many mysteries, with one aerobatic exception 139

CULTURE — rolex thunderbird

The largely unheralded Thunderbird took its name from the U.S. Air Force ‘Thunderbirds’ aerobatic flying team, who received Datejusts with the squadron’s emblem on the dials. In America they were advertised with the Thunderbirds connection, but the European market received them as plain old Datejust Turn-O-Graphs

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CULTURE — unsung heroes

With Rolex dominating the global consciousness as a maker of the world’s most coveted watches, it’s almost comical to think of any models as ‘obscure’. You have to dig back into the mists of time and name-check the SpeedKing or Centregraph to confound all but fanatics who speak in reference numbers. Even the most focused of Rolex’s tool watches – the Milgauss – is no longer a mystery to the general public. But the Thunderbird? It’s still below the radar. Ironically its birth is owed to pilots who very much employed radar. It was a development of the Oyster Datejust Turn-O-Graph, the last part of that moniker also adding a whiff of obscurity. ‘Turn-OGraph’ refers to watches fitted with a type of rotating bezel, ultimately featuring heavy, raised digits to mark every 10 minutes, and bearing no resemblance to either the bezels for the Submariner or Sea-Dweller diving watches, or the 24-hour-graduated bezels for the GMT-Masters or Explorer IIs. As with the chronograph unofficially called the ‘Paul Newman’, the Datejust Turn-O-Graph Thunderbird was nicknamed after the fact, although ultimately becoming a proper Rolex designation. It is one of the rare Rolexes which sits in between the two poles of tool watch and dress watch, and even if Sean Connery’s James Bond wore a Submariner with a tuxedo, that ain’t a dress watch. Equally, a Day-Date is hardly the proper accoutrement for a spelunker. But back to 1953. The original Turn-O-Graph Ref. 6202 was launched, now known as the direct precursor to the Submariner. While featuring the rotating bezel that inspired its name, it was not the sculpted affair that marked the later models, including the Thunderbird. Instead, it was black, with flush steel numerals for every 10 minutes. This

It is one of the rare Rolexes which sits in between the two poles of tool watch and dress watch, and even if Sean Connery’s James Bond wore a Submariner with a tuxedo, that ain’t a dress watch 141

early version is the stuff of which auctioneers’ dreams are made, i.e. expensive. By the end of its run in the mid-to-late 1950s, the original Turn-O-Graph itself had acquired a Mercedes hand like the Submariner, but its lesser 50m depth rating obviated the need for it, so the Submariner remained the definitive diving model with black rotating bezel. In 1956, however, name and bezel segued to a version of the Datejust, thus bridging the attitudes of tool and dress watch, for an elegant look which even gold Submariners or GMT-Masters do not quite manage. Identified as Ref. 1625, the Datejust with the sculpted, numbers-in-relief version of the Turn-OGraph bezel was offered with a Jubilee bracelet, in steel-and-gold or all-gold, in yellow or white, and with a variety of dials. What added the sexy nomenclature of ‘Thunderbird’ to the dial – with extra resonance for fans of those amazing Texas rockers, the Fabulous Thunderbirds – was the connection with certain pilots. It was the U.S. Air Force ‘Thunderbirds’ aerobatic flying team, at the time piloting F105 Thunderchiefs, which received Datejusts made to special order with the squadron’s emblem on the dials at the six o’clock position. The backs were engraved ‘U.S. Air Force Thunderbirds’ and the look was a blissful mix of the functional and the dashing – as perfect a pairing of adjectives as possible for cutting-edge and glamorous flyboys. So appealing were these models for the American civilian market that Rolex advertised them with full recognition of the Thunderbirds connection, although the European market received them as plain old Datejust Turn-OGraphs. A number of references were applied to these timepieces over the decades, including 6309, 6609, 16250, and on, up to the 21st century Turn-O-Graphs such as Ref. 116264. As you’d expect, the most desirable would be one of the super-rare 1950s versions with the squadron logo on the dial. These run to mortgage money, £30,000-plus, but civilian examples from the 1950s can still be found for £3,500 to £4,000, usually sans bracelet, or from £4,000 on up with bracelet. A reissued Turn-O-Graph from the early noughties can be acquired for £5,500 to £7,000 with box and papers. But if faffing around with pre-owned watches isn’t your thing, the current Yacht-Master 40 is an ideal alternative. Whatever sculpted-bezel Rolex you put on your wrist, it’s an ineffable congress of the functional and the formal.

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

IN FOCUS A VINTAGE DOCTOR’S WATCH, A RACER WITH REAL PEDIGREE AND A BRAND THAT EMBODIES ITS NAME ALL GO UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT

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IN FOCUS — farer

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IN FOCUS — farer

ON THE PULSE (OMETER)

Farer’s latest takes on the vintage doctor’s watch Well, this is one for the record books – I was actually right! Last issue we got hands-on with the Farer Segrave, a fun retro monopusher (I know, they’re innately retro anyway) with a rarely used telemeter scale. As per usual, it was cool, colourful and incredibly well priced for the amount of watch you get. I did have one reservation though. Farer watches tend to come in small capsule collections, showcasing a few executions of the same style of watch, be that pilot, field, whatever. It’s one of the things I’ve always liked about what they do, flexing their design chops to riff on a theme. The monopusher wasn’t given the same treatment. So, I posited that they were just staggering the collection a little, holding the next piece in reserve. And, as they’d already gone for an off-kilter telemeter, I reckoned it would be a pulsometer to follow. A tachymeter’s just too mainstream. Lo and behold, here we have the Cobb, a lovely new monopusher chronograph complete with a pulsometer – and one that’s adds a dash of welcome cartoony colour to the mix. Where the Segrave kept a little closer to its classical roots, the Cobb is a lot more fun. The layout is actually a bit more pared-back than the Segrave, with a standard bi-compax rather than the quirky big-eye, but there’s a lot more going on. For one, Arabic numerals rather than the more restrained indexes, eye-pleasingly cut off by the twin subdials. It makes for a fantastically balanced, impeccably finished dial. Then though, there’s the colour. As ever, Farer’s use of colour is a world apart from the rest. The light blue main body of the dial is an unusual colour, almost steely, with a contrasting white pair of bi-compax subdials. The stopwatch minutes offer an eye-catching flash of yellow courtesy of a highlight over the first 10-minute third, and both chronograph hands – as well as the pulsometer scale around the circumference of the dial – are in bright orange. Inside is the SW510 MP Elaboré, the go-to monopusher chronograph movement for the few brands that actually offer them, and a solid piece of work with a power reserve of 62-hours, a decent amount for any third party automatic. It’s one of the better movements Farer has used so far, hence the price for these monopushers upping the ante a little bit. Still, I’d not begrudge coasting above the £1,500 mark for the Cobb, especially as Farer’s finishing has jumped up a notch with it. Not on the dial of course, they’ve had those down for a while, but in the case. You might not see it from the lozenge-shaped front, but the sides of the case are knurled as finely as a

The Cobb is Farer’s new monopusher chronograph with a pulsometer and a dash of cartoony colour, compared to the classic charm of the Segrave

Bentley dashboard, something I’d definitely like to see more of across Farer’s collections. Not necessarily that particular finish of course, just making the most of what’s usually dead space. Finished with the brand’s signature bronze crown and available on three straps – I’d opt for the brown; not sure I could get away with the orange, much as I’d like to – the Cobb now makes the second in Farer’s new monopusher line. Does this mean there’s be a third? Will they, after going for the two far less obvious scales, introduce a tachymeter? I kind of hope not. Not only is the tachymeter a much more common scale, but the Farer’s ChronoSport collection – particularly the teal-dialled Carnegie – have already done it, and well. Instead, why not a decimal bezel? The incredibly rare type of bezel is simple in concept – dividing a minute into 100 – but its uses are a touch esoteric. It could be one to have some fun with. In the meantime, it’s good to see that not only are Farer making use of a monopusher, an outdated complication that I can’t help but love, but they’re showing that actually, it’s a damn sight more versatile than the occasional novelty chronograph would have you believe. And better looking, too. Find out more at farer.com

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IN FOCUS — omologato

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IN FOCUS — omologato

THE RACING WATCH DESIGNER WITH PETROL IN ITS VEINS Authenticity is everything in watches. Sure, you can design what you think is a handsome diving watch but if you don’t actually dive it inevitably comes across as a little bit hollow. It’s not just tool watches that’s a rule for either; in fact, one might argue that sense of surface level attachment is more prevalent in the high-octane world of racing watches than anywhere else. Let’s be fair, it doesn’t take a huge amount of ingenuity to pop some racing livery on a mainline chronograph and call it a day. We see it all the time, enough to have begun rolling our eyes every time a big watchmaker tries their hand. That’s something we can’t do when it comes to Omologato. Omologato was actually born of necessity. Founder Shami Kalra was down to his last few quid and needed some way of earning his beer money. Not the most auspicious of beginnings, but the fusion of watchmaking and cars that became the seeds of the brand didn’t come out of nowhere. Shami was driving his dad’s Ford Cortina when he could barely see over the dashboard and spent his first ever £50 on a VW Beetle. He was 12. At the same time, he began appreciating the finer mechanics of timepieces, too, buying himself a tricompax Seiko chronograph around the same time. So, decades later, it perhaps shouldn’t come as a surprise that Shami’s make or break idea was a watch brand with petrol in its veins. After coming up with a series of designs, he tweeted them into a Twitter feed for car lovers and, practically overnight, had himself a successful brand. Since then, Omologato has gone from strength to strength with a series of incredibly cool pieces, including the ultra-retro (and officially trademarked) Panamericana and the more classical Fiorano racing chronograph. For us though, it’s all about the Revival. We love a California dial anyway with its split Roman and Arabic numerals and tying it in with the legendary Ferrari California is an absolute masterstroke. It’s a seriously handsome piece with a good story. What’s not to love? Yet while the watch designs are on point, that’s not all Omologato are about. We mentioned authenticity at the beginning, and that’s what really sets the brand apart. Sure, they have the world’s largest range of motorsport watches, but they’re also among the world’s biggest motorsport sponsors. They are partners of Monza, Watkins Glen, TransAm and many, many more. Keep your eye out next time you head to a non-F1 race and there’s a good chance you’ll spot them. Even then however, the relationship with

The Omologato Panamericana (above) Le Mans 1959 (below) and the Revival (left)

Omologato was born of necessity. Founder Shami Kalra was down to his last few quid and needed some way of earning his beer money motorsport goes deeper. Omologato has their very own young driver’s programme. It’s not a training programme in the traditional sense; these guys already know how to drive. It’s a course to teach them how to turn that innate skill behind the wheel into a business, how to get sponsors, make the most of them and in essence turn racing into a career rather than an expensive hobby. With all that in the works, it’s amazing that Shami even has time to design watches these days. But then who needs sleep? In lieu of shut eye, there looks to be an endless pipeline if new designs emerging from the studio. If you’re into what Omologato has already done so far, you’ll want to have your wallet at the ready. Set. Go. Discover more at omologatowatches.com

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IN FOCUS — skeleton

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IN FOCUS — skeleton

SKELETON CREW

Bespoke timepieces that more than live up to their maker’s name Skeleton watches are cool. Sure, they’re over the top and they can impact the readability of the display, but if you were ever to put a poster of a watch on your bedroom wall instead of a Ferrari then it would probably be a skeleton. And it might well be one of the hand-crafted custom watches from Skeleton Concept. Skeleton Concept are a French atelier which specialise in customising and skeletonising highend luxury watches for individual clients, which are then released as a limited edition. Their list of clients is pretty insane: legendary tennis player Mansour Bahrami, world champion footballer Presnel Kimpembe and the first Venezuelan driver to win an F1 grand prix Pastor Maldonado. Each watch they produce is created with close collaboration from the client, making it the ultimate bespoke and personal timepiece. Their specialty is in skeletonising Rolex Cosmograph Daytonas, which makes sense because it is one of the most popular watches of all time and many people want to give it some individual flair. Regardless of the watch, the process is the same, right up to their most successful piece to date, the Samuel Eto’o Concept. The first step is to establish what legacy or story the watch needs to represent. For Eto’o that’s easy: he’s the greatest footballer Cameroon has ever produced, finding success at national and international level with the biggest teams. So, the watch needed to pay homage to the country of his birth. From there, it’s a case of designing the watch on paper, getting the outline right before discussing the finer details. Then, to give you a feel for what’s coming, there’s the prototype, which will show you every inch of the piece for a final check. Finally, there’s the actualisation, the making of the watch. In the case of the Samuel Eto’o concept, it was decided to opt for a matte black skeleton movement with a yellow 12-hour scale, red small seconds and green 30-minute timer – the three colours of the Cameroonian flag. The movement, based on the 4130 from Rolex, then took two years to research and refine until the artisans were happy with it. Despite having 65% less material than the original, it maintains its 72-hour power reserve and all the same standards of accuracy and precision. For some custom watchmakers, the original Daytona might have been lost in all that finishing. Not so here. The Samuel Eto’o Concept – and indeed Skeleton Concept’s work in general – still retains the DNA of the starting watch. Think of it

Skeleton’s Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (above) and the Maldonado Concept Daytona (left) produced for former F1 driver Pastor Maldonado, both undergo the same process of design, outline, prototype and actualisation

Despite having 65% less material than the original, it maintains its 72-hour power reserve and all the same standards of accuracy and precision like a custom performance kit for a McLaren; the elements that made the car the cutting-edge icon it is are still there, just with a new twist and a few mph added to the speedometer. The original Samuel Eto’o Concept was so successful that Skeleton Concept have brought it back due to popular demand – in gold, this time. Despite the precious makeover – or perhaps because of it – it’s as cutting-edge as ever, offering a timepiece that Rolex would never produce in a way to get collectors’ heartbeats racing. At least those of them that prefer to take their racing watches off the beaten track. Find out more at skeletonconcept.com

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BACK — microbrand corner

MICROBRAND

THE SPECS

• 41mm Grade 2 titanium case with 100m water resistance • Seiko NH35A automatic movement • $469 (approx. £340) • rzewatches.com

CORNER The latest and greatest from the ever-creative world of independent microbrands edited by: THOR SVABOE

RZE Endeavour

With the RZE signature titanium case protected by UltraHex anti-scratch tech, this pilot’s watch is one tough tool. The team at RZE have detail scrutiny like few others, and the battle-ready specs include the HexCrown, with a flash of red to ensure tightening to its full 100 metre water resistance. With its textured black dial and crisp white markings inside a turbine-inspired bezel, angular lugs fits the weaponized look of one of the best value titanium pilot’s tools available. rzewatches.com

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BACK — microbrand corner

Boldr

Supply Co Pink Fighter Project Field Medic After their success raising money for frontline medics with their initial (and incredibly handsome) pulsometer-mounted timepiece, Boldr are back to support another worthy cause – and this time, it’s pink. Joining the thousands of other charities raising awareness for cancer research, this striking pink panda matches the famous charitable pink ribbon pin, and 25% of sales will go directly to cancer research charities. Housed in a 38mm titanium case with a solid Japanese movement, there are very few reasons we can think of not to support the cause. boldrsupply.co

THE SPECS

• 38mm titanium case with 200m water resistance • SII VK64 mecaquartz movement • $339 (approx. £250) • boldrsupply.co

Tool Watch Co

Bold brushstrokes in the dark titanium case sets the tone for what might be a contradiction in terms, an elegant field watch aesthetic. This is nothing but a Arctic strong debut from Tool Watch Co, and the Arctic Explorer has an indefinable quality. It might seem vintage at first glance, revealing itself as a modern tool watch through its material and colour choices. Delightfully slim at 38mm, with a choice of textured meteorite dials. The deep blue of the Signature Series is particularly beguiling under its box sapphire crystal, juxtaposed on a suave saffiano leather strap. Arctic cool white indexes stand out on the dark dial, with what is an unbeatable seconds hand, replete with what looks like the serrated tip of an ice pick.

toolwatchco.com THE SPECS • 38mm brushed titanium case with 200m water resistance

• Sellita SW-200 automatic movement • $1,000 retail (approx. £725), starting at $500 for first dibs on the Kickstarter launch • toolwatchco.com

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BACK — microbrand corner

DWISS M3W

It’s been 10 years since DWISS burst onto the scene with their distinct approach to watchmaking and to celebrate the Swiss brand is launching the M3W, a welcome evolution of their award-wining M3. Rather than the displaced hours of previous models, the M3W dives deep into haute horology with a full wandering hours module, the kind of thing we’re more used to seeing in Urwerks than anything in this price bracket. In typical THE SPECS DWISS style, it’s not exactly • 42mm stainless shy and retiring with its steel case with 200m water resistance chunky case, skeleton dial • Modified Sellita and that trio of revolving SW-200 automatic satellites orbiting around. Try movement with 38hour power reserve finding a more extreme watch • $1,990 (approx. for the money. £1,450) • dwiss.com

Dietrich SD-1 Skindiver

Tentatively launched earlier this year, and now ready to buy, the Dietrich Skindiver proves that we can still get surprised in the rather saturated market for vintage tool charm. From Suave Black to Pacific Blue, there is an organic and smooth touch to this taste of mid-century that just gets to me, especially in the flash of fumè blue ocean depths. The unusual intrigue of a layered sapphire dial has got familiar clues, yet the rounded non-definable shape of the hands and the quirky square-cular indexes speak of Emmanuel Dietrich’s very personal, and damn charming vision of Goldilocks-sized wristwear. Just be aware: there’s a bit of a waitlist for the blue, now. dietrich.com

THE SPECS

• 38.5mm stainless steel case with 150m water resistance • Sellita SW-200 automatic movement • $1,050 (approx. £765) • dietrich.com

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dwiss.com

BACK — microbrand corner

Isotope

HydriumX “Will Return”

In a satin smooth tool case of friendly proportions, Isotope proves the simple concept often lacking in our world of incessant buzzing computerized wrists and pinging phones, and that is humour. The “Will Return” is a cheerful celebration of normality ensuing in the world, with a fully lumed dial to light up your nightly excursions or deep dives. With its vibrant red and searing ice-cool blue dial, it’s a chunky sports watch that riffs on the unusual inspiration of an American shop door sign. Google it and I’ll guarantee a wide smile. A winning blend of cheer and bullet-proof design makes for tempting, candy fresh wrist game. isotopewatches.com THE SPECS • 44mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Miyota 9039 automatic movement • £563 • isotopewatches.com

THE SPECS

• 42mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Miyota 9015 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • £500 spinnaker-watches.co.uk

Spinnaker

Looking for an accessible diver that can dive the big leagues? As ever, Spinnaker has you SP-5083 – BOETTGER covered, this time with the impressive piece of diving instrumentation that is the Boettger. It’s easier to appreciate than it is to say. Water resistance to 300m, equipped with a rather sleek integrated strap and opting for a four o’clock crown rather than the traditional three – complete with rugged crown guards of course – it has everything that made the Prospex a hero diver. What sets it apart however are its floating indexes, supported just above the hands like boats on the water so that the hands drift underneath. It turns what would be another solid diver into something unique. spinnaker-watches.co.uk

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watches and accessories

O r a c le

RECOMMENDS WHAT’S ON OUR SHOPPING LIST AND WHY

CHARLES MARTIN WATCH COMPANY

ARTEM STRAPS

TIDLÖS – MARIN BLACK CARBON The Marin from Tidlös captures the primary elements of Scandinavian design while also maintaining superb ruggedness in keeping with the dynamic landscape of Scandinavia. The 43.9mm diameter stainless steel case has a helium escape valve and comes with 500m water resistance, an impressive feat considering it has an exhibition caseback. There are a number of styles available but this black carbon fibre option really captures its sporty essence. It’s powered by the Sellita SW200-1 Elaboré movement. £1,090 available from tidloswatches.com

Artem Straps’ dedication to quality sailcloth straps has garnered them a quickly growing fanbase in recent months. Their deployant clasps are leading the charge and have become highly popular thanks to their unique design and excellent execution. They have also launched a new sailcloth strap inspired by the Omega canvas strap with all the high quality features of Artem, like water resistance and premium quality. Plus, there are whisperings of a highly requested project on the horizon, details coming soon. Find out more at artemstraps.com

CuleM London Skyline GMT Black Watch

London is an important city to CuleM. Not only is it the capital of the country where the brand was created, it’s also home to Greenwich Mean Time, making it vital to their signature complication, the GMT function. The new CuleM London Skyline GMT pays homage to the city by depicting a multitude of iconic London landmarks on its dial, all nestled within the 40mm stainless steel, black PVD case. Additionally, a portion of proceeds will go to local causes in London. £1,095, available exclusively from culemwatches.com

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Craftsmanship is an important ingredient within the DNA at Charles Martin. With over 90 combined years of experience, their craftspeople take enormous pride in the watches they repair and service. Which is why they deliver stunning attention to detail – through a passion for perfection and experience. They use only the finest genuine branded parts as well as the best manufacturer approved tools and machinery to ensure they provide the optimal care every watch deserves. Find out more at charlesmartinwatchcompany.com Tel: 01889 560002

Spinnaker – Boettger Spinnaker’s Boettger diving watch is back with a brand new strap option. The integrated Nitrile Butadiene Rubber strap is lighter and more flexible than the previous bracelet, making for a slimmer profile on the wrist. There are three colour options with corresponding dials: Obsidian Black, Midnight Blue and Tropical Orange, although the orange strap is joined by a black dial because they haven’t gone the full Doxa. They do though have the same accessible price as their predecessors at £500. £500, available from spinnaker-watches.co.uk

style

Ross Oliver – Bridge-bit Loafers As we enter the seasonal transition, Ross Oliver’s Bridge-bit loafers offer the perfect blend of durability, versatility and style for the autumn months. Their inaugural collection is Britain’s first handmade loafer to be constructed from high quality and luxurious cactus leather, in a bid to merge traditional British craft with modern materials. They provide excellent comfort, looks and capability in all weather conditions. Shop the full, award-nominated collection at rossoliver.uk and follow them on IG: @rossoliverfootwear

Marc Darcy

PANTHERELLA – ASPEN SCARF

Marc Darcy have been creating quintessentially British suits since 1989 and nothing epitomises their style better than the Jensen Three Piece Suit. It’s a wonderfully versatile outfit that has plenty of heritage inspiration with a modern twist. The Prince of Wales check is suitable for work wear or formal occasions and it has dual panelled camo lining. And, as a fun bonus it’s available in both adult and children’s sizes. There are also three colours on offer: navy, grey and sky blue. £294.99, from marcdarcy.co.uk

The Aspen Scarf from Pantherella is the ideal winter accessory. This 100% cashmere scarf is made from the finest Mongolian wool; soft, warm and comfortable. There are seven colour variations available – Mink Melange, Navy, Camel, Grey Flannel, Cream, Natural and Carbon. For our money you can’t beat the Grey Flannel, gently matching frosty winter mornings and grey winter days, although you’ll be perfectly snug whatever the weather. £190 from pantherella.com

BENTLEY MOTORS – HERITAGE BACKPACK Bentley might be best known for their luxury cars, but once you’re parked up, you’ll still want to bring the luxury with you. Luckily, Bentley also produce a range of high quality leather goods like this Heritage Backpack, so you can keep top-end luxury with you at all times. The bag is made from Italian leather embossed with the Bentley logo and accompanied by stripes in a variety of colours. £475 available from shop.bentleymotors.com

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LACOSTE – RUN SPIN ULTRA For footwear that’s both comfortable to run in and looks great casually, we all know that Lacoste are at the top of the game. The new Run Spin Ultras have a unique texture and assertive style, which comes from a transparent inner cage matched by eyelets that create a contrast of colours. In terms of comfort, they have shape-memory plastic that provides stability and cushioning, perfect for being active or staying comfy. £150 available from sweatshop.com

grooming

WAR PAINT FOR MEN – TINTED MOISTURISER Make-up is still a stigmatised subject for men and largely a rarity. That’s something War Paint are aiming to challenge by making make-up more accessible to men and destigmatising it by making it part of your daily routine. Their tinted moisturiser combines a moisturising cream with slight pigment to match your skin tone, making for a natural and healthier look that doesn’t feel any different to the creams you might usually use. £22, available from warpaintformen.com

The Bluebeard’s Revenge – Refill Pouches

ICY BEAR – DIAMOND WHITENING TOOTHPASTE

Established in 2010 in south west England, Bluebeard’s Revenge has gone on to become a globally acclaimed player in the men’s shaving and grooming market. They have recently committed to greater sustainability by launching a range of refill pouches for their most popular products, such as their shaving cream and post shave balm. The pouches are easy to produce and low waste, making them perfect to refill your original aluminium packaging or for use directly. £29.99, available from bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

We’re always hearing about how microplastics in cosmetics and toothpaste are ruining the ocean when they are easily replaceable with natural content. Icy Bear have taken that notion to the luxurious extreme by using diamond dust, which is abrasive enough to achieve a superior clean while also soft enough to leave no damage. Perfect for that million dollar smile, but without the million dollar price tag. £17.99, available from icybeardental.com

SLIM by Apriori VITRUVIAN MAN – RESURRECTION CREAM Inspired by Leonardo DaVinci’s iconic Vitruvian Man artwork, based on the work of Roman Architect Vitruvius, the modern cosmetics company Vitruvian Man believe in the core tenants of functionality, strength and elegance. Their evocatively named Resurrection Cream is a daily moisturiser that has inbuilt SPF 20 sun protection and helps to repair damaged skin. The main elements are snow mushroom, ginger root and nutgrass juice as well as an evocatively named desert plant known as the resurrection plant. £52, available from vitruvian-man.com

SLIM by Apriori have introduced a new, luxurious new colour combination to their award-winning toothbrush. Its deep blue sapphire handle is highlighted with gleaming gold-coloured accents – an indulgent colour fusion that will make you feel stylish from the start of the day, adding a splash of hedonistic pleasure to your daily routine. Apriori have taken an everyday item and redesigned it in a clear, elegant, and simple way – creating an awardwinning toothbrush that’s an innovation in the oral care sphere. Available at slimbyapriori.global

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drinks

DEKANTA – KYOYO WORLD BLENDED WHISKY Kyoyo is the Japanese word for sharing and it is a philosophy of sharing resources and experience that has led to dekanta’s inaugural World Blended Whisky. The liquid is a blend of six different whiskies, three 26 year olds from Scotland and three young ones from Japan. While Japan has a rich history in whisky - dekanta want to celebrate up and coming brewers and distillers - they are themselves celebrating their six year anniversary. Limited to 260 bottles, available at dekanta.com

Glenmorangie - 18 Years Old Azuma Makoto Limited Edition

Macallan – Harmony Collection Rich Cacao

Scottish whisky experts Glenmorangie have worked alongside the Japanese artist Azuma Makoto to release a special, floral themed limited edition of the Glenmorangie 18 Years Old. Makoto specialises in botanical sculptures, and his new piece Dancing Flowers of Glenmorangie features almost 100 flowers. The artwork, depicted on the limited edition box and label, symbolises the honeysuckle, sweet pea, jasmine and geranium with dried fruits and honey that make up the flavour profile of the 18 years old. Find out more at glenmorangie.com

The new Macallan Harmony Collection Rich Cacao is the first in a new series of annual limited edition whiskies being produced by The Macallan. The series aims to promote sustainability by working alongside other luxury industries to create sustainable packaging. For the Rich Cacao edition, that industry is chocolate with the box created from the husks of cacao pods. Inside the box is a liquid inspired by chocolate as well, as it has been specially distilled to pair well with rich, dark chocolate. Learn more at themacallan.com

COMTE DE GRASSE 44°N GIN Located in the perfume capital of the world, Grasse, Comte de Grasse have access to a wide array of high quality aromatic ingredients for their botanical flavoured 44°N Gin. Rose centifolia, mimosa, jasmine and lavender all play their part in a unique distillation process that involves methods inspired by the perfume trade, including ultrasonic maceration and CO2 extraction. The result is a liquid that instantly evokes a sense of the sun drenched Mediterranean. £70, available from 44gin.com

INNOVATUS DRINKS – WING WALKER PREMIUM SPICED RUM Wing Walker rum is fresh, vibrant spiced rum designed to evoke a sense of adventure and daring similar to the aeronautic acrobatics of its namesake. The liquid is distilled on the coasts of Venezuela and the Dominican Republic, giving it an authentic Caribbean flavour infused with orange and vanilla. For Oracle Time readers they are also running an exclusive promotion and you can use the coupon code Oracle5 at checkout for an online discount. Available from wingwalkerrum.com and don’t forget to use code: Oracle5

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END — venomous jet

by MICHAEL SONSINO

M OVIE WATC H

Venom: Let There Be Carnage There are a million films that could fit this month’s theme of Hedonism from The Wolf of Wall Street, to Great Gatsby or any other film starring DiCaprio. However, we’ve covered those films already and frankly it’s just not hedonism if it feels stale. Instead, to give you a fresh experience, let’s talk about a film that only hit cinemas a few weeks ago. Venom: Let There Be Carnage is the second film in Sony’s Tom Hardy led Spiderman spin-off. The web-slinger has yet to make an appearance in the franchise, however rumours abound that Tom Holland may yet make his way over from the Marvel Cinematic Universe.

Instead, our hero is Eddie Brock, an investigative reporter who, in the first film, meets a violent alien symbiote called Venom. Having your body and mind dominated by an alien goo-creature is certainly one hell of an experience, so maybe these films do classify as hedonistic after all. In the second instalment, Eddie and Venom encounter an even deadlier symbiote named Carnage, who has taken over the body of serial killer Cletus Cassidy, performed with psychopathic intent by Woody Harrelson. But what about wrist gear? Well, Eddie is a dark and brooding character with a penchant for action so it needs to be stealthy black, sporty and stand toe-totoe with Hardy’s British charm. And they have absolutely nailed it with the Bremont Alt1-P2 Jet. It has a 43mm stainless steel case with a moody black DLC coating and a black dial that compliments the character perfectly. Not to mention it’s as British as Hardy. The watch was originally built specifically for the first Venom film, and it’s good to see some sort of continuity

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in a movie that has two alien symbiotes beating the CGI out of each other. Eddie Brock’s at least more loyal to his wristwear than to his ravenous partner in crime. At its core the watch is a pilot’s chronograph with a tricompax layout in beige lume, meaning it sits at the suave end of sporty. Inside, it’s powered by the modified calibre 13 ¼’’ BE-53AE, an automatic chronometer movement with a 42-hour power reserve. With his trusty Bremont on his wrist and the resolutely untrustworthy Venom at his side (in his side?), Eddie must face down Kassidy and Carnage in glorious CGI combat. And if the credits are anything to go by, this will not be the last time that we see Eddie and Venom on the big screen.