Oracle Time - November Adventure Edition - Issue 67

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .67

In the Deep End

THE BALL NEDU The Adventure Issue HARDWEARING WATCHES | COASTAL STYLE | CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE

ISSUE 67

5.95

£

ORACLE TIME #67

WELCOME Editor’s letter

There’s not a lot of adventure going on in most of our lives right now. Sure, after a solid week in the house just heading out for groceries feels worryingly epic, but travelling to distant mountaintops, vast deserts or miles of untamed jungle is a little beyond us. Not that I’d be doing that stuff outside of a pandemic, but you get the picture. Rather than dwell on it though, we thought we’d bring a taste of adventure to you.

For one, not being able to leave the UK doesn’t mean your adventuring spirit needs to give up the ghost, as our round-up of British-based mini-expeditions on page 113 shows. From an isolated bothy under the stars to the rugged Scottish coastline, the challenges are there if you want them.

On the other hand, if you wanted to make your own plans for escape seem a little lacklustre by comparison, we also chat to arctic explorer and environmental campaigner Mike Horn on page 46 about ice, whales and grizzlies vs polar bears.

Of course, you can’t tackle true wilderness without the right tools, which includes a serious adventure watch. Or if, like me, you’re a little more sofa-bound these days, a watch with just the right nods to exploration. From page 52 you’ll find at one end, a watch that went to space; at the other, one that could likely survive re-entry without a scratch.

When it comes to extreme timekeeping though, look no further than our cover star. Rather than designing its deep diver from a watchmaking point of view, Ball enlisted none other than the Naval Experimental Development Unit to create its latest Engineer Hydrocarbon – and it’s a beast.

That all said, you don’t need to brave the Mariana Trench or summit Everest to be called an adventurer, as Nick Carvell’s interview on page 76 with photographer, designer and one-time tailor Robert Spangle shows. From street style to warzones, the man’s seen (and documented) it all.

If you do want to get on Mr Spangle’s lens then you could do worse than take a few tips from our Edit this issue, covering a few rugged staples of style – or indeed from our combined watch and style shoot, with some looks for the more avant-garde adventurer.

Finally, with Christmas on the horizon it’s high time for our seasonal gift guide, a bumper crop of potentially perfect gifts for whatever kind of person you’re buying for. Petrolhead? Foodie? We even have a few in there that any self-respecting watch lover would beg Santa for. Me included.

COVER CREDITS Photography: Fraser Vincent Watch: Ball NEDU ballwatch.com

As ever, stay safe, sane and enjoy this issue.

Sam Kessler, Editor

KEEP IN TOUCH: @oracle_time | @oracle_time | facebook.com/oracleoftime | oracleoftime.com

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ORACLE TIME #67

CONTRIBUTORS

WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE

EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk

Nick Carvell

A lifelong fan of double denim (even triple on occasion), Nick started his career as Social Media Editor of mrporter.com before working as Associate Style Editor at British GQ then Editor of The Jackal. He is now a freelance menswear editor, writing from lockdown at his kitchen table in South London.

Lewis Nunn

ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi

Often dubbed the real-life Patsy Stone, Lewis is an editor and travel journalist writing about luxury travel and cruise holidays for all leading Fleet Street newspapers. He knows how to travel in style – preferably with a glass of Bolly in-hand.

design@opulentmedia.co.uk SUB EDITOR

Alex Briand alexbriand4@gmail.com DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Kirsty Illingworth kirsty@opulentmedia.co.uk DIRECTORS

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4615

Nick Savage

Nick will try any dish once, whether it’s tarantula stew in Cambodia, muskox Thai green curry in Greenland or mopane worms in Zimbabwe. As a food and travel journalist, he has travelled the world, but his favourite place to eat will always be London.

George Parker george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4616 ACCOUNT MANAGER

Themba Wirz themba@opulentmedia.co.uk 0208 057 1140 OT MAGAZINE is published monthly

by Opulent Media 020 7871 4615

Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

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ORACLE TIME #67

CONTENTS

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O T M AG A ZIN E / IS S U E 67

40 — BALL

20 — AFICIONADO

We reveal what’s on our radar and what should be on your shopping list this month

The real-deal diving watch developed in collaboration with the US Military’s Navy Experimental Diving Unit.

28 — NEWS

A round-up of the latest happenings in luxury living and, of course, the best in horology

36 — FACETIME

Watch collections of the rich and famous – this issue it’s Stevie Wonder

38 — THE ORACLE SPEAKS An illuminating guide to lume

“Both [Ball and NEDU] have helped solidify standards that we couldn’t do without today” Ball — p40

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ORACLE TIME #67

CONTENTS

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46 — MIKE HORN

The remarkable South African Explorer discovers climate change first-hand

52 — ADVENTURE WATCHES

Some of the most capable timepieces in the world

66 — STYLE SHOOT

Your rugged and adventureready autumn look-book

78 — ROBERT SPANGLE

An interview with the lauded and multi-talented fashion photographer

87 — STYLE EDIT

The items you need for a stellar autumn wardrobe 46

97 — SEVEN LAYER The Manchester brand bringing Northern style to military-grade outerwear

101 — WATCH REVIEWS

The OT take on models from Bell & Ross and Delma

125 — GIFT GUIDE The perfect presents for petrolheads, sybarites and adventurers alike 125

140 — VINTAGE

The Universal Genève SpaceCompax is our unsing vintage hero in this issue

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CULTURE

144 — AUCTIONS What’s going under the hammer this month?

147 — IN FOCUS

“Push forwards to Laugharne, a famous breeding ground for writers from Dylan Thomas to Richard Hughes”

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109 113

__________

Food & Drink Travel

Mini Adventures — p113

__________________________

113

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A closer look at Zero West, Aquastar and Winfield

155 – MICROBRAND CORNER What’s new in the world of the small-scale?

160 – MOVIE WATCH The latest Guy Ritchie caper doesn’t disappoint on the gold Rolexes

FRONT — aficionado

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

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FRONT — aficionado

DEATH VALLEY DIVER

Blancpain’s iconic Fifty Fathoms is at home in any stretch of water you might imagine, but the Swiss watchmaker’s latest funky take on the archetypal diving watch is a little sandier than you might expect. Inspired by the spelunking expedition of Ernest H. Brooks into Death Valley’s Devil’s Hole, the 70s-slanted, limited edition Bathyscaphe Desert is one of the most striking pieces in the retro line and our new firm favourite. $12,700 USD, limited to 500 pieces, blancpain.com

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FRONT — aficionado

ROYAL RUM

Unusual flavours, innovative finishes: Dictador’s Masters series is full of surprises. Still, even by those standards the rum’s latest collaboration needs to be tasted to be believed.

The Dictador 2 Masters Royal Tokaji has been matured at the legendary Hungarian wine house, adding a distinctive new element to the 40-year-old rum. £670 at Goedhuis & Co Fine Wine Merchants, goedhuis.com

TASTING NOTES: NOSE: Complex and rich, with hints of tropical fruits and nice honey touch PALETTE: Very elegant and balanced, smooth and rich with notes of Madagascan vanilla, honey and chocolate FINISH: Round and complex with a fresh touch of Royal Tokaji Aszú

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FRONT — aficionado

THROUGH A SCRAMBLER DARKLY

With the same overall design as the 1,079cc 1100 Dark PRO, the latest model in the entry-level Scrambler range is a darker, sexier twist on the classic adventure bike. The matte black overhaul is effortlessly cool as is, but also allows for a substantial level of customisation to suit whatever you aim to put it through.

Looking for a getaway bike with a serious aesthetic twist?

The Ducati Scrambler 1100 Dark PRO is for you. ÂŁ10,495, scramblerducati.com

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FRONT — aficionado

A BREATH OF FRESH AIR

Surgical masks too hospital chic for you? Other masks too stuffy? Or have you ever just dreamt of life on Mars?

The MicroClimate Air has you covered. The space helmetstyle mask is a wearable microclimate designed to keep you safe in potentially pandemic-riddled airports. Combining a fully transparent face mask, HEPA filters for inlets and outlets and a comfortable construction weight of 2lbs, it’s safe, comfortable and practical. It’s also ridiculous.

But give it a go and you’ll likely not look back – and only partly due to embarrassment. $199, microclimate.com

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FRONT — aficionado

ASTON MARTIN ARCHITECTURE

It felt a little off-kilter when Aston Martin announced its foray into architecture and yet here we are, with its first private project available and the incredible zig-zagging form of Sylvan Rock to prove it. Built in collaboration with S3 Architecture, the angular, black cedar home in New York’s Hudson Valley will be set across 55 acres of forested land, 2,000 of which will be sweeping driveway suited to some serious motors.

For the full (extensive) floorplans and to register your interest, visit Corcoran Luxury Living. $7.7m, corcoran.com

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FRONT — aficionado

NIKE’S DAY OF THE DEAD

Every year Nike creates a special collection for the Mexican Day of the Dead and each year the results are among its coolest releases of the year. Which, for Nike, is saying something.

This year is no different, with traditional altars inspiring remixes of the Air Max 90, DBreak Type, Blazer Mid and Air Jordan 1. With nods to handmade artworks and flowers left at family altars on Día de los Muertos, the autumn colours make for a seriously cool collector’s capsule fit for any sneakerhead’s ofrenda. Or, more hopefully, feet. nike.com

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FRONT — aficionado

IN A SPIN

It’s not just watches that are reviving the 70s; audio specialist Bang & Olufsen is getting in on the retro game too, with a reimagined spin on its iconic turntable, the Beogram 4000c Recreated Limited Edition. The first in the brand’s new Classics capsule, the original design has been given a modernised overhaul with a RIAA phono pre-amplifier, allowing integration into any home system. In short, this is a slice of B&O’s audiophile past, perfected – and extremely limited besides. £9,000, limited to 95 pieces, bang-olufsen.com

MAMBO NO. 1

3D printing is making its way into everything now, from cars to watch cases and medical prosthetics. Boats though? That’s a new one. Created by Moi Composites, the 6.5-metre-long MAMBO (Motor Additive Manufacturing Boat) is a 3D-printed fibreglass beauty that just debuted at the Genoa Boat Show. With a 115cv engine and a dry weight of just 800kg, you can bet this is a mover and, with looks like these, a nautical dance partner everyone will be wanting to take out for a spin. Price TBC, moi.am

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EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

© JAMES LIPMAN / JAMESLIPMAN.COM

NEWS

THE NEW FASTEST CAR IN THE WORLD Bugatti? Nope. Koenigsegg? They’re history. No, the newest sovereign of the speedways comes from Washington-based manufacturer SSC which seems to have come more of less out of nowhere with the now record-holding Tuatara. Earlier this month the new car was clocked at 331mph just outside of Las Vegas, destroying the records held previously by the Chiron pre-production prototype last year and the Koenigsegg Agera RS in 2017.

With that in mind, it’s no surprise that the Tuatara will be scarce – and pricey. Set at $1.9m, the entire first production’s already sold out. Not bad for the little hypercar maker that could. sscnorthamerica.com

SSC seems to have come out of nowhere with the now record-holding Tuatara 28

FRONT — world news

VACHERON’S SPORTS HERITAGE

© KALORY LTD www.kalory.co.uk

Despite its position as a premium, haute-horology watchmaker erring on the dressy side, the oldest (continuously operating) watchmaker in the world has a serious sporting heritage.

Just pop into Vacheron Constantine’s Bond Street boutique this month and see for yourself: until 23 November, the small but perfectly formed space will be hosting a number of legendary vintage pieces bearing the Maltese cross. Or, if the boutique’s a little pokey for you, they’ll also be exhibited at Harrods. The collection ranges from timekeeping pocket watch chronometers to early versions of the Overseas, showcasing the practical side of Vacheron’s watchmaking. vacheron-constantin.com

ORIS’ NEW BENCHMARK MOVEMENT It takes a lot to make a new movement really noteworthy but Oris seems to have pulled out all the stops when it comes to its new calibre 400. The new movement has been entirely conceived in-house and it’s an impressive beast, using an anti-magnetic silicon escapement, a substantial five-day power reserve and the reliability to let Oris promise a ten-year warranty. The brand’s yet to announce just what watches the calibre 400 will make its way into, but it’s sure to make Oris an even greater value proposition than it already is. oris.ch

The new movement has been entirely conceived in-house and it’s an impressive beast

BURLINGTON ARCADE’S NEW SNEAKER SPECIALIST Proving that sneakers are serious luxury, Kick Game is heading to Mayfair and in none other a hall of traditional savoire faire than Burlington Arcade. Stocking the likes of Off-White, Yeezy and Supreme, the trove of trainers, you can be sure of some seriously pricey kicks on show. Open seven days a week and with an ever-rotating selection of sneakers on offer, 12-13 Burlington Arcade may well just be your new temple to streetwear. After all, sneakers might not be quite the same level of investment as a vintage Rolex… but they’re getting closer. kickgame.co.uk

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FRONT — world news

LENNY KRAVITZ & STEINWAY Steinway is synonymous with old-school grandeur, the kind of classical-obsessed traditionalism that fills music halls around the world, all black lacquer and red velvet. At least, that was before Lenny Kravitz got his hands on one. The Lenny Kravitz Grand, designed in collaboration with the rock star, is unlike anything Steinway has produced before. In shape it’s classically European, but the details and finishing that the German-American piano maker is known for take on an art-deco meets African tribal motif, with hand-carving aplenty and a striking natural grain.

Only ten of the new piano will be built, priced at $500,000 each with a part of the proceeds going to Harlem School for the Arts. eu.steinway.com

In shape it’s classically European, but the details take on an art deco meets African tribal motif 30

FRONT — world news

WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND BROADGATE If there’s one hole in the plethora of shops around Liverpool Street’s Broadgate Circle, it’s a killer watch store, which seems odd; surely the well-heeled of the City could use a place to spend their bonuses? Well, Watches of Switzerland is here to help, with an impressive new two-floor, 530m² showroom.

100 Broadgate Circle will house eight branded areas from the likes of Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Tudor – as well as a dedicated Rolex showroom and partnered Omega boutique, complete with a private lounge for big spenders. watches-of-switzerland.co.uk

100 Broadgate Circle will house eight branded areas from the likes of Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Tudor

GUESS T H E WATCH About as off-kilter as a watchmaker can get, MB&F has created some incredible – and incredibly-ridiculous – watches over the years and last issue’s silhouette, the Bulldog, lies somewhere in-between. Between the ears and the chomping jaw of a power reserve, there’s nothing else like it.

There’s also nothing quite like this particular watch either. Sure, an adventure watch should be rugged and durable, but this not-so-little number has a unique secret weapon hidden inside. So… what is it?

What is the watch?

CHECK BACK NEXT ISSUE FOR THE ANSWER

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what is the

WATCH

?

FRONT — introducing

NEWS

INTRO DUCING IN DETAIL

42mm DLC-treated stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £5,850 (DLC), limited to 1,000, £7,330 (rose gold bezel), limited to 250, chopard.com

© @federal-studio.com

•

CHOPARD

Mille Miglia 2020 Race Edition

For the 2020 edition of the race, Chopard cements its long-standing connection with the iconic Mille Miglia with one of the collection’s strongest watches in years.

Available in two different versions – one in bead-blasted DLC-coated stainless steel and the other bimetal, with the addition of an 18ct ethical rose gold bezel. Both come on Dunlop tread-inspired rubber straps.

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FRONT — introducing

IN DETAIL

45mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Sellita SW-510 automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve • £2,550 (rubber), £2,590 (bracelet), doxawatches.com •

DOXA

IN DETAIL

Adding to the entry level of its professional diving range, the new Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph ups the size to a substantial 45mm and adds a chronograph for a sportier vibe.

Available in Doxa’s six signature colours – including the incredibly bright orange and aquamarine – this larger twin to the SUB 200 isn’t for the faint-wristed: it’s big, bold and brawny.

37mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • El Primero 400 automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve • £7,700, limited to 200, zenith-watches.com •

UNDONE

Calavera Neón

Paying homage to the Mexican Day of the Dead, the latest neon-laced timepiece from the creatives at Hong Kong-based custom watch brand UNDONE is a fitting tribute for an ofrenda. Created in collaboration with Latin American artist and political cartoonist José Guadalupe, the luminous front is paired with a darker phrase on the reverse: ‘Todos Somos Calaveras,’ or, ‘We are all skulls.’

ZENITH

Chronomaster Revival Lupin the Third 2nd Edition

Global lockdowns haven’t halted Zenith’s international expansion and to celebrate the opening of its first store in the Ginza district of Tokyo, the Swiss watchmaker has launched the second in its line of classic-animeinspired timepieces: the Chronomaster Revival Lupin III – 2nd Edition.

This time, the limitededition number comes with a high-contrast panda dial.

IN DETAIL

40mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • Seiko TMI VK61 hybrid flyback chronograph movement • £310, undone.com •

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© Jason Reekie

SUB 200 C-Graph

FRONT — introducing

MB&F

Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO When Stephen McDonnell, the watchmaker currently putting the finishing touches on Bremont’s first in-house movement, designed the LM Perpetual for MB&F he went back to the drawing board, completely redesigning the perpetual calendar complication. The result is among the coolest Legacy Machines yet – especially, in our opinion, in orange.

IN DETAIL

• 44mm zirconium case with 80m water resistance • In-house perpetual calendar manual-wind movement with 72-hour power reserve • CHF 152,000, limited to 15 in each colour, mbandf.com

© Fraser Vincent

He went back to the drawing board, completely redesigning the perpetual calendar complication

IN DETAIL

44mm ceramic and ceratanium case with 60m water resistance • IWC Cal. 69380 automatic movement with 46-hour power reserve • £8,550, iwc.com •

IWC

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition SFTI

We can’t all be among the greatest pilots in the world, just in the same way we can’t all pull off aviators quite like Tom Cruise. What we can do though is get hold of IWC’s latest Top Gun edition, which happens to be the closest thing to the official instructor’s watch as possible. Blacked out, mil-spec and equipped with a solid chronograph movement, there’s just one little thing wrong with it…

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FRONT — facetime

NO.

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FA C E T I M E The watch collections of the rich and famous revealed

ARGUABLY ONE OF THE MOST famous and influential singer-songwriters in modern music – hell, one of the most important of the whole 20th century – Stevie Wonder’s unique mix of soul, rhythm and blues, gospel, funk and jazz has made him a living legend. If it was just hits like Superstition that’d one thing, but he was also one of the pioneers of digital sampling and helped shape popular music for decades.

To put that all into figures, he was the youngest ever person to reach No. 1 on the Billboard 100; he holds the joint record for most Album of the Year awards and has sold over 100 million records worldwide.

Aside from winning Grammys more times than most people have actually watched the ceremony though, he’s also one of the most effortlessly cool dudes in music, with his soul-slanted outfits, signature sunglasses and oversized personality. That also extends to his watch.

For some visually impaired collectors, a watch is just an accessory, not something that’s genuinely useful to everyday life. Not so here. That’s because an EONE watch, Wonder’s timepiece of choice, isn’t read with your eyes like a standard, three-hand watch. Instead its unique ball-bearing layout is read like braille – fitting for an artist whose first number one hit at the tender age of 13 was Fingertips.

EONE was founded by MIT graduate Hyungsoo Kim and was conceived as a way to make elegant, accessible timepieces available to everyone. By collaborating with designers and the sight-impaired, he created one of the most innovative solutions to blind timekeeping around.

The end result is the Bradley timepiece, which takes its name from ex-naval officer and Paralympic star Bradley Snyder, a man that wouldn’t let his disability hold him back – much like Wonder.

The concept behind it is deceptively simple. You read the raised hour makers by touch, with a triangle at 12 o’clock, elongated baton indexes at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock and slightly shorter versions in-between. Then there are two magnetised ball bearings, one orbiting the dial to denote minutes and another on a track around the edge

Stevie Wonder The soul man

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FRONT — facetime

Designed for the visually impaired, the EONE Bradley can be read by touch as well as sight

of the case for hours. The fact that the layout looks incredible is just a welcome side-effect.

It’s a timepiece that’s seen a fair few variations on the theme, with different finishes and levels of detail throughout the collection. The purest expression though is the minimal, 40mm Mesh Silver version with its distinct less-is-more design. It’s also, quite possibly, what Wonder was spotted wearing as he gigged with Pharrell at the Grammys.

Don’t worry though, you don’t need to be an internationally-renowned, best-selling artist to afford one. This isn’t Pharrell’s Richard Mille we’re talking about. In fact, because of the magnets involved, EONE opts for a quartz Ronda movement, which drops the price down to just $285.

Minimal good looks, an affordable price tag and one of the most innovative solutions to sight-impaired timekeeping, there’s nothing quite like the EONE Bradley. That’s perfect, given there’s also nobody like Stevie Wonder.

Find out more at eone-time.com

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FRONT — ask the oracle

THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained

[Lume]

Watches have had to solve plenty of problems over the years, from crushing depths to magnetism to temperature – anything that might upset the workings of the movement. But even the smoothest-running calibre is a little pointless if you can’t actually read the dial. Given that half the day is darkness (give or take) that’s a serious issue, and one that a little luminescence has helped solve since the early 1900s.

As is often the case for technological advancements, the first instances of lume popped up around World War I, with military watches using a mix of radium and zinc sulphide. The most important part of that pairing is the radium, a radioactive material that glows in low light.

Yep, radioactive.

Don’t worry about wearing a vintage field watch though; even when applied, it wasn’t harmful to the wearer and plenty of brands loved the stuff; Panerai even named a collection after it. Unfortunately the same can’t be said of the (generally) women that painted it onto the dials. It turns out that if you spend time handling a lot of radioactive material, bad things happen.

Still, radium wasn’t officially banned until 1968 when it was almost wholesale replaced by tritium, a material that has its own issues. Sure, it’s far, far less harmful to humans, but it also has a half-life of just 12 years. If you’ve ever wondered why your cool, late-60s sports pieces don’t glow, that’s why. The tritium ran out of juice.

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What it did gain was a lovely patina, the sort that many a modern watch with overt retro vibes tries to imitate with a touch of sepia. You’ll know its original if the dial’s marked with T, TT or H3. Tritium’s not really used nowadays, except notably for our cover star this issue.

Rather than painting on tritium with zinc sulphide, Ball uses tritium gas tubes. They’re incredibly bright and rarely used outside of a handful of watchmakers, which is a shame. They also need to be pretty closely monitored in manufacturing; tritium is still a radioactive material, after all.

So aside from the outliers like Ball, Luminox et al who use gas, what exactly do most modern watches use? It’s on pretty much every spec sheet out there: SuperLumiNova. Or at least, some variation thereof.

Rather than glowing by itself, the luminescent pigment in Super-LumiNova, the latest version of which is SuperLumiNova C3, glows after exposure to light, charging like a battery. It starts very bright at first and fades out over time, making it ideal for short spates of darkness but not a Scandinavian winter. The main benefit though is that it’s not radioactive. This means its safe, easy to apply and keeps its properties over time.

It does have issues with humidity, but with constant advancements on the formula – from other brands too, not just the trademarked, Japan-Switzerland crossover of Super-LumiNova – we’re getting a ton of different colours (Super-LumiNova itself comes in eight), longerlasting glows and more environmentally hardwearing versions of lume.

Brands are getting more experimental with the stuff too. Tudor’s all-black only watch used black lume so that the watch could only be read in the dark; Ball’s been using every colour of tritium gas tube under the sun; and Black Badger’s been sticking its own proprietary blocks of lume on MB&F, Bamford Watch Department and whoever else needs a nightlight on their wrist.

Sometimes it’s practical, sometimes it’s more of a design statement, but one thing’s for sure: the future of lume is bright.

FRONT — ask the oracle

Watches from (clockwise from this image) Breitling, MB&FxBlack Badger, and Bell & Ross displaying Super-LumiNova-based lume Above: Ball’s watches still employ tritium gas tubes

Rather than glowing by itself, the luminescent pigment in Super-LumiNova glows after exposure to light, charging like a battery

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FRONT — ball

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FRONT — ball

WORDS:

SAM KESSLER

ON THE BALL THE SWISS WATCHMAKER FIRMS UP ITS PARTNERSHIP WITH ONE OF THE WORLD’S LEADING DIVING CENTRES WITH ITS LATEST DEEP-SEA INSTRUMENT

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FRONT — ball

The NEDU is a high-performance diver developed with one of the world’s most rigorous and respected diving centres, the Navy Experimental Diving Unit

You can tell at a chance that the Ball NEDU is a performance timepiece. There’s no ornamentation or excess finishing, just the technical look of a serious instrument 42

There’s a good chance you’ve never heard of the Navy Experimental Diving Unit. It’s not the most well-publicised arm of the American armed forces, despite being one of the most critical. It is, in its own words, “The most credible and respected research, development, and test and evaluation center for diving as well as the focal point of leadership for biomedical and bioengineering solutions for undersea military operations.”

In short, they are the dogs bollocks of US Navy tech, the Top Gun of the deep if you will. And while there are obviously a good number of naval forces in the world that require the best equipment, these guys go one step further: they build that equipment.

So if you were looking for a partner to help create a serious, boundary-pushing, deep-defying diving watch, that’s where I’d start. Watchmakers can keep a movement ticking, but when it comes to sealed environments on the ocean floor, best bring in an expert – which is precisely what Ball Watches has been doing since 2012.

There’s a touch more synergy than that of course; back in the 19th century, Ball (back when it was a US brand) was in good part responsible for the chronometric standards that helped lay down the railroad system. The NEDU established the vital decompression tables used by divers across the world.

Both have helped solidify standards that we couldn’t do without today.

Needless to say then, when the first joint timepiece, developed in collaboration between the engineers at the NEDU and Ball’s own watchmakers, it caused a splash. And then sank to the bottom of the ocean where it kept time nicely at crushing depths.

Now, the latest, enhanced edition of the watch is here and the Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU is as uncompromising as ever.

You can tell at a chance that the Ball NEDU is a performance timepiece. There’s no ornamentation or excess finishing, just the kind of form from function, technical look of a serious instrument. The most striking aspect of that is the bezel, which is of course

FRONT — ball

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FRONT — ball

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FRONT — ball

The NEDU’s 600m water resistance will satisfy casual and professional divers alike

The last tenet of professional diving is readability and the fact that the NEDU is a Ball should give some indication that that’s not a problem here

a unidirectional rotating number, but one with dramatic contours developed to be gripped in a full diving suit if necessary.

A mix of chromed ceramic for hardness, corrosion resistance and all-round survivability, oversized numerals for immediate legibility and bright luminous paint applied directly to the material, it proves that there’s a lot more to a diving bezel than the number of clicks. Which in this case, incidentally, is 120.

What’s less noticeable is that the case also has two chamfers cut into the flange supporting the bezel, which helps drain out any water that gets trapped between the two. It’s the kind of touch only the engineers at NEDU likely would have thought of.

Of course, the bezel is just one of the necessary tenets of a professional diving watch, the most obvious one being depth. Fortunately the NEDU goes above and beyond there, with a solid 600m water resistance, far above the usual benchmark of 300m – and that’s despite it being a chronograph. Add in Ball’s patented automatic helium escape valve for saturation diving and its (also patented) crown protection system, and

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you have a watch that can survive almost anything.

It’s also a substantial chunk of metal. Despite being 42mm across, it looks and feels a good deal bigger.

Not over-the-top, just perhaps larger than my wrist can get away with. Fortunately that’s been alleviated a little by the tapered titanium case. It’s still not a featherweight, but it’s easily wearable, even if you’re more desk-diver than naval specialist.

The last tenet of professional diving is readability and the fact that the NEDU is a Ball should give some indication that that’s not a problem here. The watchmaker’s known for its H3 tritium gas tubes, which glow like neon. They’re 100 times more effective than luminous paints; just compare them to the bezel.

Powering all of those diver-slanted innovations is Ball’s RR1042-C automatic movement, a reliable COSCcertified calibre with a 12-hour chronograph. It’s solid, precise and protected from shocks and magnetic fields that would put less intensely-engineered timepieces back into the workshop – and therefore its wearers, most likely, into the hospital. Or worse.

Sure, the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU isn’t the most handsome watch in the world; the only concession to style is the new, admittedly lovely, gradient blue dial, which does little to dent its utilitarian feel. But that’s not the point. The watch has been developed as a deep-sea instrument, an unassailable underwater timekeeper.

If the specs sheet – and various patents – weren’t enough to prove that, the endorsement and involvement of arguably the most demanding diving institution in the world should be.

CULTURE — adventure

E

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Mike Horn is one of the most celebrated arctic adventurers in the world, but there’s more than a sense of accomplishment behind his expeditions

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S a m

K e s s l e r

CULTURE — adventure

CAUSE

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W o r d s :

FOR

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CULTURE — adventure

FOR EVEN THE MOST ADVENTUROUS OF US, just getting to the North Pole is an accomplishment; a few of you may even decide to try and make it on foot, you masochists. But for Panerai ambassador Mike Horn and fellow adventurer Børge Ousland, even that wasn’t enough. It’s why last year they attempted to not just reach the North Pole by foot, but do so at precisely the wrong time of year: summer.

“It’s a different experience entirely,” explains Horn.

“In the winter the ice is solid, frozen; in the warmer months it’s far thinner and, worse, moving.” That’s right, moving ice. It meant that after being dropped off from the boat Pangaea, the pair were constantly moving against the ground.

“Not only was the thin ice dangerous and slow to walk across, it actively lengthened the expedition! During the day we’d gain miles and miles, but when we made camp at night we lost up to half of that.”

The pair had assumed it would take them two months to make the crossing, and packed the appropriate amount of supplies and some extra, just in case it took a little longer. It took them 87 days. “We’re seasoned explorers but we were worried,” he says of the last few days.

“We underestimated what we’d find; we were lucky to make it in the end.”

If there’s one positive that came out of it – other than the suicidally difficult accomplishment – was that the journey helped underpin what Horn has been saying for years: that climate change is destroying the Arctic.

“It’s something that you need to see for yourself; numbers and statistics are one thing, but going back there every few years, you experience what’s really happening to the ice, to the wildlife. When you’ve seen a grizzly kill a polar bear, one that’d had to swim from the Arctic to the coast of North America, you know something’s wrong.”

It’s something that Horn’s been taking a more active role in recently, with his latest expedition – again to the Arctic – for the sake of whale conservation.

Whales are a great indicator of the health of our oceans, thanks to their intelligence and sensitivity to their environments. While most of the time that means doom and gloom for the aquatic mammals, they’ve been having a break recently, for one big reason.

“Since the Covid 19 epidemic, there have been fewer humans sailing their waters, polluting and hunting”, explains Horn. “So we’ve taken the opportunity to measure their stress levels. If they’ve gone down, it’s empirical proof of our negative impact on them as a species and so our oceans. Once we can prove that, the next step is to create reserves for them, to ensure their safety.”

It’s a noble goal and one that Horn is evidently passionate about – which makes sense. This is a man that has spent a good deal of his life in the Arctic, not just crossing the snow and ice but also learning about it.

Now he has a chance to help save it, too.

Find out more about Mike Horn’s conservation work at mikehorn.com

The journey helped underpin what Horn has been saying for years: that climate change is destroying the Arctic Mike Horn has been a Panerai ambassador for more than 15 years

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CULTURE — adventure

Among Horn’s other accomplishments are travelling to the North Pole in the full darkness of winter, and climbing peaks of over 8,000 metres without oxygen assistance

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FRONT — adventure watches

WORDS:

Sam Kessler

ADVENTURE TIMERS

M O S T O F U S P R O B A B LY A R E N ’ T F E E L I N G T O O A DV E N T U R O U S T H E S E DAY S ; t h e U K ’s n o t e x a c t l y r e p l e t e w i t h m o u n t a i n e e r i n g a c h i e ve m e n t s a n d t r e k s a c r o s s a r c t i c t u n d r a . F o r m o s t o f u s , t h e c l o s e s t t h i n g t o a d ve n t u r e i s D a v i d A t t e n b o r o u g h ’s c a l m i n g , d u l c e t t o n e s . I ’ m s u r e fo r s o m e o f yo u , i t ’s b e e n a w f u l .

O f c o u r s e , a n a d ve n t u r e r e q u i r e s p r e p a n d t o g e t yo u r s e l f t h r o u g h t h e n e x t fe w m o n t h s o f i n c r e a s i n g l o c kd ow n s , i t m i g h t b e wo r t h p l a n n i n g i t a l l o u t i n a d v a n c e , a n d g i ve yo u r s e l f s o m e t h i n g t o l o o k fo r w a r d t o . W h i l e we ’ r e n o e x p e r t s i n f r e e c l i m b i n g o r b e l ow-z e r o s l e d g e - h a u l i n g , we d o k n ow a t h i n g o r t wo a b o u t w a t c h e s – a n d w h a t t h e y c a n s u r v i ve .

S o w h i l e yo u ’ r e s o r t i n g o u t w h i c h i c e p i c k c a n b e s t h o l d yo u r we i g h t , l e t u s wo r r y a b o u t t h e w a t c h e s t o m a t c h – n o m a t t e r w h e t h e r yo u ’ r e a n e x t r e m e , m o u n t a i n - b e a t i n g b a d a s s o r, l i ke m e , wo u l d r a t h e r l i ve v i c a r i o u s l y f r o m t h e s o f a .

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FRONT — adventure watches

1 OMEGA

4

MONTBLANC

7 NODUS

2

VON DOREN

5

CHOPARD

8

ASTOR +BANKS

CASUAL

3

HANHART

6

WOLBROOK

9

OAK & OSCAR

10

BREITLING

11 BOLDR

14

DRAKEN

17 G-SHOCK

12 SEIKO

15 RICHARD MILLE

18

CHRISTOPHER WARD

PROFESSIONAL 53

13 MICHEL HERBELIN

16

VICTORINOX

19 ORIS

20

HAMILTON

FRONT — adventure watches

1-OMEGA SPEEDMASTER

“Silver Snoopy Award” 50th Anniversary

There’s no greater adventure than going into space, something which Omega has done plenty of in the past – enough to warrant the Silver Snoopy Award from NASA’s astronauts. This latest (surprisingly) regular collection piece pays homage to that achievement with a cool white-and-blue colourway and, on the caseback, an animated, orbiting white dog in a rocket – a fitting nod to space-faring adventure.

1-

THE DETAIL • 42mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Omega Calibre 3861 automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve • £8,250, omegawatches.com

“

2-VON DOREN

Von Doren’s debut combines Art Nouveau-inspired good looks with an elegantly nautical steel case ”

URÆD

Inspired by its very own adventure – that of famed nautical engineer Ole Brude – Von Doren’s debut watch combines Art Nouveau-inspired good looks with an elegantly nautical steel case and an everydayappropriate 100m water resistance. Of the three dials, the Sea Green is the stand-out and makes for a lovely watch with respectably rugged credentials.

THE DETAIL • 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • STP 4-13 automatic movement with 44-hour power reserve • €1,379 (approx. £1,250), vondoren.com

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FRONT — adventure watches

THE DETAIL • 42mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW 510 M manual-wind movement with 58-hour power reserve • From €1,744.87 (approx. £1,580), shop.hanhart.com

3-HANHART 417 ES

A recreation of the first ever aviator’s timepiece worn by the German air force, this watch’s credentials alone should pique many a military collector’s interest. The fact that it’s a handsome-yet-robust chronograph with a lovely fluted bezel and characteristic bi-compax layout will return that interest and then some. Its hand-wound calibre makes it a little less practical for adventure, but it’s still the return of a legend.

THE DETAIL • 42mm bronze case with 100m water resistance • MB 29.25 calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £5,300, limited to 262, montblanc.com

4-MONTBLANC

1858 Geosphere Messner Limited Edition

The dual hemispheres of Montblanc’s novel approach to the world-time complication is a fitting view for a watch dedicated to mountaineering. The latest blue and bronze Geosphere pays tribute to the climbing legend that is Reinhold Messner, combining elegant good looks and a great compilation with a surprisingly rugged case. It’s probably more for fans of climbing than actual climbers, but it’s still incredibly handsome – and charitable, too.

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FRONT — adventure watches

-5CHOPARD

Alpine Eagle XL Chronograph

THE DETAIL

More St Moritz than Everest, Chopard’s answer to the sports-luxe craze is nonetheless a solid piece of watchmaking. In fact, it’s one of the most solid in its little category, with a big 44mm across and a versatile water resistance of 100m – suited to snow, not the sea.

Its iridescent, sustainablysourced Lucent Steel is lovely, and makes for an elegant alternative to your usual Royal Oak wannabe.

• 44mm Lucent Steel case with 100m water resistance • Chopard Calibre 03.05-C automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • £16,800, chopard.com

6-WOLBROOK

THE DETAIL • 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Citizen / Miyota 8315 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • £364, wolbrook.com

Skindiver WT Professional

The Speedmaster is not the only extra-terrestrial timepiece by far and Douglas was just one name joining the space race. The Wolbrook Skindiver, with its hesalite crystal and part-timezone 60-second bezel is a relatively faithful re-edition of the original Douglas, right down to the name on the dial. Powered by a solid automatic movement and on a retro bund strap, it’s an underrated icon.

“

The Skindiver is a relatively faithful reedition of the original Douglas, right down to the name on the dial ” 56

FRONT — adventure watches

7-NODUS

Sector Field

A cool, refreshing take on the classic field watch, the Sector Field from Nodus combines a pretty typical, militaristic stainless steel case with a dual-layer sandwich dial and a striking sector pattern at the centre. It’s easy to read at a glance and the subtle fumé dials lend themselves nicely to the quartet of colours available. In short, it’s one of the nicest (and most visually interesting) field watches out there.

THE DETAIL • 38mm stainless steel case with 150m water resistance • Seiko NH35 automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve • $425 (Approx. £330), noduswatches.com

Astor+Banks is an elegant, pared-back timepiece that nonetheless has a twist on the dials, which along with the standard black and white offers mint green, mother-of-pearl

8-ASTOR+BANKS Fortitude

Distilling a field watch to its bare essentials, the Fortitude from Chicago-based

and gilt and navy. If this is a riff on an old-school military timepiece, it’s one aimed squarely at officers. Rugged and reliable, with just the right amount of flamboyance.

THE DETAIL • 38.5mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Miyota 9015 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • From $525 (approx. £400), astorandbanks.com

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If this is a riff on an old-school military timepiece, it’s one aimed squarely at officers ” 57

FRONT — adventure watches

THE DETAIL • 40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • ETA 2892A2 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £1,341.95, oakandoscar.com

9-OAK AND OSCAR Humboldt

Solid build quality meets classic good looks in this Stateside take on the Explorer template. Not only is the 40mm steel number rugged in the extreme, the rotating bezel also allows you to keep track of a second time zone. That’s not too useful halfway up a cliff face, but knowing when you can use your satellite phone to call home when you’re ready to camp for the night is – as is the more-than-respectable ETA movement inside.

10-BREITLING Endurance Pro

THE DETAIL • 44mm Breitlight case with 100m water resistance • Breitling Calibre 02 SuperQuartz movement with 3-4-year

Well, Breitlight had to make a return at some point and here we are, with the new entrylevel to the Breitling world, complete with an accurate SuperQuartz movement.

Lightweight (3.3 times lighter than titanium to be precise), hardwearing and built for performance, it’s certainly not the retro Breitlings we’ve come to know and love, but it’s a watch that’ll never slow you down despite its size.

battery life • £2,450,

“

breitling.com

It’s a watch that’ll never slow you down despite its size ” 58

FRONT — adventure watches

THE DETAIL •

11-BOLDR

38mm titanium case

Venture Jungle Green

with 200m water

A quintessential field watch in both its blocky, ruggedly elegant case and military green colouring, Boldr’s Venture stands out for its off-centre crown and solid good looks. Housed in a vintage-sized 38mm case in very non-vintage titanium, it’s lightweight, hardwearing and looks the part, even with both feet planted on the pavement.

resistance • Seiko NH35A automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve • $299 (approx. £230), boldrsupply.co

12-SEIKO Prospex LX ‘Skyline’

Combine a rugged Prospex case with a top-end Spring Drive movement from Grand Seiko and you have the LX line, Seiko’s best-of-bothworlds series of performance watches. Inspired by the view from the International Space Station, the ‘Skyline’ sports a lovely gradient dial, matching Batman-esque 24-hour GMT bezel and a serious specs sheet – 400 of them doesn’t seem like nearly enough.

THE DETAIL • 44.8mm high-intensity titanium case with 300m water resistance • Seiko Springdrive movement with 72-hour power reserve • £4,760, limited to 400, seikoboutique.co.uk

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FRONT — adventure watches

13-MICHEL HERBELIN

Newport Regatta Carbon

The most advanced watch to date from the French watchmaking giant, Michel Herbelin’s new carbon-clad Newport is part racing, part nautical, making a regatta timer the most appropriate complication for it. Created in collaboration with skiing champion Aurélien Ducroz, it’s light, hard-wearing and one of the most affordable pieces of forged carbon out there.

THE DETAIL • 46.5mm carbon case with 300m water resistance • Sellita 13 1/4 SW501 BV

“

automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve •

Michel Herbelin’s new carbon-clad Newport is part racing, part nautical ”

£2,680, michel-herbelin.com

14-DRAKEN Benguela

While the latest from South African microbrand Draken is technically a specialist diver, with its helium escape valve and impressive 500m water resistance, it’s a versatile enough piece to take you anywhere you want to go – and offers a lot of bang for your buck. On the other hand, the quirky design touches and dramatic Paper Nautilus-inspired sea monster on the reverse make it aesthetically unique.

THE DETAIL • 43mm stainless steel case with 500m water resistance • ETA 2824-2 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • $699 (Approx. £540), drakenwatches.com

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-15RICHARD MILLE

RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal

Yes, a tourbillon – but not your usual, fragile, easily disrupted mechanism, no.

Richard Mille’s latest sporting timepiece supports its movement with steel cables, suspending the calibre and allowing it to withstand accelerations of over 12,000 Gs. With an incredibly strong-yetlight TitaCarb case, this is a tourbillon you can skydive with, and then some – though you’ll probably need to own the plane to be able to afford the watch.

THE DETAIL • 32.4mm TitaCarb case with 50m water resistance • RM27-04 calibre manualwind movement with 38-hour power reserve • $1,050,000 (approx. £805,000), richardmille.com

THE DETAIL • 43mm carbon composite case with 200m water resistance • Ronda 715 quartz movement • £935, limited to 1,500, victorinox.com

16-VICTORINOX

I.N.O.X. Carbon Limited Edition

Taking the military aspects of a field watch to their logical conclusion, this camouflagedraped take on Victorinox’s extreme outdoor style is built to survive anything. That means a tough carbon case water resistant to 200m, low-light visibility and an optional compass bumper to add another layer of protection. Throw in a paracord strap and this is a watch that’ll head through a jungle, up the side of a mountain and base jump down the other side. Oh and it comes with a Swiss Army Knife. Because of course it does.

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FRONT — adventure watches

17-CASIO G-SHOCK RAF Gravity Master

If you don’t mind your watch looking like a fighter cockpit strapped to your wrist then this no-compromise Casio will pique your interest. Designed for the RAF, the Altimeter function is pretty useful for avid climbers and mountaineers, too; plus the thing looks built to survive an avalanche or two. It’s tech rather than mechanicallydriven, but for serious adrenaline junkies that’s just perfect.

THE DETAIL • 51.4mm Carbon-Reinforced Resin case with 200m water resistance • Digital movement with two-year battery life • £349, g-shock.co.uk

18-CHRISTOPHER WARD C60 Lympstone

The latest in Christopher Ward’s Ministry of Defence-approved range takes things in a new, more modern direction, inspired by the rugged requirements of the Royal Marines.

The DLC stainless steel case is water resistant to 600m and the stealth look is a fitting tribute to one of the most demanding wings of the British Armed Forces, right down to the rotating inner bezel compass. It’s also far more affordable than it has any right to be.

THE DETAIL • 42mm stainless steel case with 600m water resistance • Sellita SW200 automatic

“

movement with 38-hour power reserve •

The stealth look is a fitting tribute to one of the most demanding wings of the British Armed Forces ”

£1,000, christopherward.com

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FRONT — adventure watches

19-ORIS

Aquis Date Calibre 400

Looks-wise, this new Aquis doesn’t seem particularly new. Same glossy dial, same rugged diving case. Inside, however, is the new calibre 400 movement which is anti-magnetic to the point where you could probably risk it in an MRI machine; the electromagnetic field of the North Pole will have no chance. Plus, it’s a solid diver, just in case you fall through the ice. Not that the time will be your primary concern then.

THE DETAIL • 43.5mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance

“

• Oris calibre 400 automatic movement with 120-hour power

The movement is anti-magnetic to the point where you could probably risk an MRI ”

reserve • CHF 3,200 (approx £2,700) on bracelet, oris.ch

THE DETAIL • 46mm titanium case with 1,000m water resistance • H-10 calibre automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • £1,890, hamiltonwatch.com

20-HAMILTON Khaki Navy BELOWZERO Tenet

It may have been a tie-in with the befuddling blockbuster that was Tenet, but Hamilton’s huge 46mm case is about as rugged as these things get.

The all-black look is pure spec ops and the (thankfully) lightweight titanium construction is water resistant to an incredible 1,000m. Available with either a red- or blue-tipped second hand, this is a lot of watch for the money.

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STYLE — opener

Style 66/ Our adventurous shoot 78/ Robert Spangle interview 87/ Get the look with our style edit

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STYLE — photoshoot

o f f

Photography: FRASER VINCENT & TOM PETTIT

t r a c k

Styling: NICK CARVELL

The in-crowd, the elements and the open road – conquer it all with our adventurous style picks

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STYLE — photoshoot

Padded jacket, £1,420 Trousers, £620 Jumper, £450 Shirt, £420 Boots, £650 All by Tod’s tods.com

Victorinox I.N.O.X Carbon, £935

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STYLE — photoshoot

Jacket, £645 Jumper, £245 Trousers, £210 All by Snow Peak snowpeak.co.uk

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STYLE — photoshoot

Christopher Ward C65 Lympstone, £875

69

STYLE — photoshoot

Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961, £940

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STYLE — photoshoot

Blanket workshirt

by Percival, £179 percivalclo.com Jumper by Peregrine, £125 peregrineclothing.co.uk Corduroy trousers

by Patagonia, £80 Waders by Le Chameau, £185 Both available at Farlows farlows.co.uk

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STYLE — photoshoot

Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale, £1,570

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STYLE — photoshoot

Work jacket, £110 Jumper, £105 Dungarees, £95 All by Carrier Company carriercompany.co.uk Socks by The Workers Club, £22 theworkersclub.co.uk Boots by Grenson, £295 grenson.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

Waxed jacket by Barbour Gold Standard, £599 barbour.co.uk Padded jacket, £395 Denim trousers, £245 Socks, £22 All by The Workers Club theworkersclub.co.uk Boots by Grenson, £295 grenson.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Orange, £2,290

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STYLE — photoshoot

Packable jacket, £355 Rugby shirt, £135 Cargo trousers, £155 Roll neck jumper, £139 All by Polo Ralph Lauren ralphlauren.co.uk Boots by Grenson, £295 grenson.com

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date, ÂŁ9,900

77

STYLE — Robert Spangle

Words: NICK CARVELL

MOST ADVENTUROUS MAN IN FASHION THE

From Pitti Peacocks to BLM protests, Robert Spangle’s lens has captured it all

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STYLE — Robert Spangle

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STYLE — Robert Spangle

Spangle’s first foray into photography was for inspiration while working for a Savile Row Tailor

It’s a crisp, bright autumn morning in Eagle Rock, LA. At least it certainly looks that way from the sun streaming into Robert Spangle’s wood-lined living room when I connect to him over Zoom. The photographer has just returned home after a few days in Italy on a project. But while his body is in California, his mind is still in Naples.

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“Last night I was craving a proper Neapolitan pizza,” he says, freshly Aeropressed espresso in hand. “I’m currently writing a travel guide for Americans who want to visit Europe, and I was Googling this amazing place I went to in Naples, Da Michele, when I noticed the son of the proprietor has opened something in LA – so my friend and I checked it out. It’s way more expensive here and you can never replicate the real thing, but it’s still pretty damn good.”

No doubt the comfort for Spangle is that he will inevitably be back in Napoli for the real thing again soon. As anyone who follows his Instagram account @thousandyardstyle will know, one of Spangle’s main gigs is being sent around the world by prestigious publications taking photos of the most fashionable men and women he sees – primarily for the British edition of GQ magazine, but also Vogue, mrporter.com, Vanity Fair and the Japanese menswear bible Popeye.

Of course, these are all titles which sell a dream of luxury – pages of impeccably dressed celebrities, five -star hotels, six-figure homes and white linen table cloths. However, for Spangle, luxury is more about the experience than material things.

“One of the things I love about Naples is that it has a different expression of what I think luxury is. There, you have the best pizza on Earth that’s been made in the same way by the same family for, like, 150 years, eat it on a curb that’s filthy, but probably laid by the Romans, finish it off with a couple of cheap Spritzes and probably end up dancing all night. For me, that’s so experientially rich.”

While he’s primarily known today as one of the menswear scene’s most in-demand street-style documentarians, his compulsion to value experience so highly has led him on one of the most adventurous careers of any man in the fashion industry. Born in Malibu, California – a stone’s throw from where he lives today – he left home in his late teens to serve in the US Marines from 2007 to 2011, being stationed in Afghanistan for a significant portion of that time. Leaving the military, he briefly attended Otis College in LA to study fashion design (“enough to know that my interest was

STYLE — Robert Spangle

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STYLE — Robert Spangle

The recent Black Lives Matter protests were among Spangle’s recent reportage photography subjects

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STYLE — Robert Spangle

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STYLE — Robert Spangle

actually in tailoring”), before heading to London to become an apprentice cutter at Savile Row suit-maker Maurice Sedwell.

Having dabbled in photography on his return to California, it was his boss – Row legend Andrew Ramroop – who suggested he take photos of suits he liked that he saw guys wearing out and about in Mayfair. Before long he found he was behind the camera far more than he was in the workshop making jackets, uploading his work – like any self-respecting millennial creative – to his Tumblr, Thousand Yard Style. After just under two years in London, and with his first big commissions for GQ and The Rake, he moved back to LA once again to set up his photography studio.

Moving home to the US was never about settling down – it was more about having a base at which to plan his next adventure.

Spangle might shoot campaigns and street style in the world’s fashion capitals, but a trip to Europe is usually in tandem with a multitude of other stops that offer him an opportunity to shoot very different events.

Most recently, he attempted to bookend his trip to fashion week in London with a stint in Beirut to cover the devastating explosion that had only just rocked the city – but was detained at Athens airport due to ever-changing Covid-19 restrictions.

Reportage photography is an increasingly important part of Spangle’s portfolio, especially – and perhaps unsurprisingly given his military background – coverage of human conflict.

Earlier this year, he shot an arresting set of images of the Black Lives Matter protests in LA for GQ. Before that, he travelled to Scandinavia to speak to two members of the Peshmerga – a volunteer military force who fight against ISIS in the largely autonomous region of Kurdistan in Iraq – who became popular (and hugely controversial) on social media for their live-streamed, often gruesome coverage of the fighting. This Christmas, if restrictions allow, he’s headed back to Afghanistan for the first time since serving there to see his friends (mostly other photojournalists) and capture its scenery on film. “I’ve always wanted to go back as a photographer,” says Spangle.

“It is such an interesting place visually; the landscape is so harsh in its beauty.”

However, photography isn’t the sole reason for these almost-continuous adventures. Over the past few years, Spangle has turned his interest in design into a brand in its own right – and his travels provide the perfect opportunity for product testing. Dubbed the Observer Collection, the line (which frequently sells out in minutes) currently comprises eight different products borne out of Spangle’s personal needs while out on manoeuvres, including the canvas and leather ‘Seebag’ with a removable, waterproof inner lining, a pair of superb white denim ‘OD’ jeans with a crease and frayed hem, and – perhaps most notably for Oracle Time readers – a suede ‘Piecekeeper’ patch to stick to the bottom corner of your laptop to stop your watch scratching the case as you type.

“I’m a very obsessive person. I think that’s something that started off in my military days – tweaking equipment to

“[Afghanistan] is such an interesting place visually; the landscape is so harsh in its beauty” 84

get it more efficient. As a designer, I think, ‘how can I do that, too’? Nothing I design goes on sale without multiple revisions from what I’ve discovered out in the field.

That takes a long time.”

In fact, his latest project – a fragrance – has taken two and a half years to come to fruition. While the juice has been designed in collaboration with perfumer Will Inrig (a man who, “like most of my friends,” the photographer got talking to after taking his photo on the streets of Paris), Spangle has taken a meticulous approach to the bottle it comes in.

“Perfume is far more delicate than fine wine or whisky,” he says.“It is sensitive to heat, agitation and most especially light, so a glass bottle is never ideal for it – and, as someone who travels, I’m not keen on having glass with me in any form as it smashes easily. So I became an amateur machinist and designed something more fit for purpose: a 50ml container made from medical grade titanium, which is chemically neutral so it doesn’t react with the liquid inside and is endlessly reusable when you finish the perfume, but it also has a hole in the cap where you can attach a lanyard so you can throw it over your showerhead. You’ll never forget it – unlike many of my toiletries I’ve left in places over the years.”

It won’t surprise you that the liquid inside is also inspired by the nomadic life Spangle leads. While he gives away few details of the notes it contains, the brief for the scent was to create something that didn’t feel too associated with a particular region – something that goes beyond nationality.

“That sounds really hoity-toity,” says Spangle. “But, by that, I mean something that’s not too heavy in woods which would feel Aisatic or too floral which would feel French or too sporty and technical which feel American. Getting beyond those things so you don’t stand out in a crowd of people in a bar in Japan or Kuwait, but you still feel grounded when you’re in constantly changing environments.”

Its name?

“Homesick.”

Request to follow @observercollection on Instagram to be notified when Homesick launches

STYLE — must-haves

SLIP ON A SHACKET

For days when it’s too sunny for a coat but too cold for just a jumper, you need to get into this hybrid. The lovechild of a shirt and a jacket, it retains the casual feel and cut of your favourite button-up, but is either cut from a thicker fabric (corduroy, heavy linen, wool) or is lined with something cosy to give it added chill-beating capabilities. Wear in the autumn as an outer layer in its own right, then subtly transition it into an extra insulating layer under your coat come the winter.

edit: NICK CARVELL

Survive autumn in style ADVENTURE

A DAY’S MARCH,

> With winter temperatures averaging in the minus double digits in Sweden, the Swedes know a thing or two about wrapping up as the temperature drops – and this heavy Lana Cotta wool jacket from Stockholm-based brand A Day’s March proves it. £165, ADAYSMARCH.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

MARKS & SPENCER,

> Lined with a cottonblend fleece, this deep green corduroy shacket has a relaxed cut and poppers down the front, making it perfect for throwing over any knit you already own, no matter how chunky. £49.50, MARKSANDSPENCER.COM

CARHARTT WIP,

“

Perfect for throwing over any knit, no matter how chunky

> The colour might have drained from the sky at this time of year, but that’s no reason it should do the same in your wardrobe – as demonstrated by this zingy, deep purple corduroy jacket, lined in taffeta for added warmth. £135, CARHARTT-WIP.COM

ANGLO-ITALIAN,

> Made in Italy and cut from English wool, this shacket from cool Marylebone tailoring house Anglo-Italian in charcoal houndstooth is just begging to be worn slightly oversized with dark flannel trousers, a thick rollneck and a pair of sleek black Chelseas. £250, ANGLOITALIAN.COM

WAX LONDON,

> Jazzy, heavyweight cotton shackets have become something of a signature for Wax London, and this new edition in a bold mustard, navy, claret and white blanket-style check – finished with natural Corozo nut buttons – is an exceptional example. £120, WAXLONDON.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

BE MORE ADVENTUROUS WITH YOUR KNITS

The trees are making an effort with colour out there, so what’s your excuse to be wearing the same plain, old crew neck every day? This autumn, get out of your comfort zone and go for something a little braver.

Whether it’s an eye-catching pattern or a zingy colour, this season your new jumper should be anything but neutral.

JOHN LEWIS & PARTNERS,

> If you’re the kind of guy who thinks Argyll is just for golf courses and grandpas, we present this new-season take on the pattern from John Lewis & Partners. With a laid-back kinda fit, it’s far more suited to wearing with a pair of slim cords than plus fours on the fairway. £60, JOHNLEWIS.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

MACKINTOSH,

DRAKE’S,

> The world looks like an impressionist painting out there right now – so why not be a walking Mondrian instead? This season, Drake’s are giving you the opportunity to make that a reality with this bold, blocky lambswool crew neck. £395, DRAKES.COM

> Made right here in the UK using wool from the Scottish Highlands, coat-maker Mackintosh’s new foray into knitwear is available in a series of snappy shades (we like the pink) and the fabric has a shaggy, supersoft feel that can’t help but make you feel all warm and fuzzy when you slide into it. £160, MACKINTOSH.COM

KENT & CURWEN,

> Fairisle is one of the most traditional patterns you’ll find on a winter jumper – which is why we like that the folks at Kent & Curwen have turned it on its head with this cool deconstructed version, which looks like the design is fading into the sands of time. £235, KENTANDCURWEN.COM

SAINT JAMES,

> The Breton pattern has become something of a summer staple for men – but there are plenty of cold-weather-ready versions out there. We particularly like this ecru wool version from traditional French ‘Mariniere’-maker Saint James, with natty nautical shoulder buttons. £139, SAINT-JAMES.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

HIKE INTO TOWN

With things the way they are right now, you’ve probably been doing a lot more walking over the past few months – and, if that continues into the autumn, you’re going to need some kit that’s ready to take on slippy pavements and cooler temperatures.

Hiking boots are the answer: study but sleek, there are plenty of smarter options out there that are far more Duke of Windsor than Duke Of Edinburgh’s Award.

GANT X DIEMME,

> We’re big fans of a curveball collaboration. This one between Swedish prepmaster Gant and storied Italian bootmaker Diemme is one of our 2020 highlights, thanks to its lavish splashes of bold colour. Three models are available – the yellow is a particular highlight. £360, GANT.CO.UK

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STYLE — must-haves

HERRING,

> For the more minimally minded, Herring’s ‘Trekker’ in all-black is the kind of hiking boot that is perfectly adapted to life in the city. Made in Northampton and finished with a lightweight Solovair air sole, these blend traditional craftsmanship with bang-up-to-date tech for maximum comfort. £225, HERRINGSHOES.CO.UK

VELASCA,

> Italian shoemaker Velasca was founded in 2014 on the belief that Italian craftsmanship shouldn’t come with an exorbitant price tag. These ‘Resegott’ hiking boots exemplify the vision: superb quality with that quintessentially slick Italian sensibility. £280, VELASCA.COM

SOREL,

> If full-on hikers are a little too serious for your wardrobe, how about this hybrid? Sorel has fused a trainer and a hiker to create the Mac Hill ‘sneakerboot’, featuring waterproof full-grain leather-suede and a springy moulded footbed for all-day comfort. £160, SORELFOOTWEAR.CO.UK

FRACAP,

> Fracap has been making boots in its hometown of Monteroni in Puglia for over a century now.

Of the company’s extensive range, it’s hard to beat the look and durability of the M127 boots, crafted from soft leather inside and out, and kitted out with a Vibram Vi-Lite sole that provides all of the shock absorption of a traditional Vibram sole with less of the weight. £229 AT ENDCLOTHING.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

GET YOUR GROOMING ROUTINE IN ORDER

As we verge from autumn into winter it’s not just your clothes that you should be changing out for something that’s more seasonally appropriate. A combination of chilly winds and central heating means your skin will feel drier at this time of year, and while we don’t have tanning temperatures, the low winter sun in a crisp cloudless sky still means your face is being pummelled by UV on a daily basis.

Get ahead of Mother Nature with this selection of grooming essentials for the season...

AKT,

> With toastier temperatures inside and crisper ones outside, your body gets shocked when you transition between the two – this means sweat. Traditional deodorant is often packed with chemicals and packaged in plastic, so do better for both your body and the environment by going for a tube of AKT’s deodorant balm instead (out of the three scents offered, we particularly like SC.01 EXT. ORANGE GROVE with zesty notes of mandarin and juniper). A non-sticky cream that glides on under your arms (or wherever), it’s fully vegan and comes in a recyclable tube – helping you feel both smug and confident all day long. £18, AKTLONDON.COM

THOMAS CLIPPER,

> One of our favourite bathroom-centric British brands has just released its first soaps. At this time of year the new Luxury Body Scrub Bar is an essential for sloughing off dead skin cells, and its scent (using the smoky, spicy basenotes of the company’s Mountain cologne) will transport you from your morning shower to a campfire in the forest. £19, THOMASCLIPPER.COM

TOM FORD,

> Sometimes it’s hard to feel particularly peppy when you wake up to increasingly long, dark mornings.

Tom Ford’s Exfoliating Energy Scrub is here to help.

Not only will it buff away dead skin to leave your face feeling bright and fresh, but its perky, crisp, green scent will leave you feeling refreshed and ready to take on the day. £40, TOMFORD.CO.UK

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STYLE — must-haves

AESOP,

> You might think that SPF is something you only need to worry about in the summer, but UV exposure – which causes premature aging of the skin – is a year-round reality whatever the season.

Protect against it by applying a moisturiser with SPF every day when you get ready. In our experience, there are fewer finer than Aesop’s Protective Facial Lotion SPF25, a hydrating, super-lightweight liquid which sinks satisfyingly quickly into your skin. £39, AESOP.COM

THE OTHER SAINT,

> This Purifying Gel Face Mask from new British men’s skincare brand The Other Saint contains antioxidant pineapple extract, anti-aging green tea extract and healing Gotu Kola to help soothe and hydrate your element-exposed face. The best part? It only needs five minutes of your time to work its magic, leaving your skin feeling fresh and springy all day long. £21.50 (INC. UK DELIVERY), THEOTHERSAINT.COM

YOUR NEW WORK SUIT IS A TRACKSUIT

It looks as though working from home is here to stay – meaning that our tailoring is going to remain firmly in our wardrobes for the foreseeable future.

However, if you still want to feel smart on your Zoom calls at your end-of-dining-table office, now’s the time to invest in the ‘other’ type of suit: a tracksuit.

Rather than those colorburst Eighties monstrosities, ensure your colleagues don’t clock your sweats by keeping things sleek and minimal in a dark color, like this from Jheez.

SHOP.JHEEZ.COM

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CULTURE — design

Words:

Sam Kessler

Seven Layers of Style MANCHESTER’S 7L TAKES ITS FUNCTIONAL CUES FROM THE US MILITARY, OFFERING A STYLISH, MODULAR WAY TO MEET THE ELEMENTS

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The 3L waterproof outer (left) is manufactured entirely from Japanese recycled polyester

Generally what you wear can be split into two distinct camps: stylish and practical. Both have their place, both have their own values and, more often than not, never the twain shall meet.

Except, that is, in innovative, Manchester-based technical-wear label, 7L, or Seven Layer.

The concept behind the brand’s collection is one taken directly from the US Military and its Generation III Extended Cold Weather Clothing System.

Split into seven layers with 12 different components to suit the environment, it’s a way of approaching clothing to ensure that the wind stays out, you stay warm and your skin stays dry, the practical trifecta for any would-be explorer. In case you were wondering, the seven

exact layers in question are as follows: base layers, mid layers, thermal layer, field layer (or in military terms, the combat layer), wind layer, rain layer and cold layer. Just scale up and down according to the weather. If that doesn’t tick off everything the environment could throw at you, you probably shouldn’t be there.

Of course, military clothing isn’t exactly suited to everyday life, especially a soldier’s combat layer, and it needs to be backed by a certain level of style.

That’s where 7L’s Manchester roots and come into play, particularly now the brand is under the guidance of Stockport-born entrepreneur and

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engineer Jamie Lundy. “Over the past few years I think Manchester has struggled for an identity,” says Lundy.

“After the 90s, with the demise of the music scene, the city slowed down with the Northern Quarter clinging on to its character and culture. Now, it feels as though something is happening again – it’s great to see and be involved with.”

That new stirring of the Manchester scene begins with the aptly-named ORIGIN collection.

ORIGIN is a truly modular layering system, with effortless switching between the various layers. The 3L Waterproof Shell jacket is perfect in a torrent, but once the rain stops simply unzip the sides and transition to a comfortable down number. That’s just one example of the brand’s interchangeable, adaptable and wonderfully versatile collection.

Because carbon footprint is an important factor for any brand – even one with a focus on performance – 7L has made sure that as much as possible has been constructed naturally and close to home. That means that the cottonbased layers 1-4 are made in the UK, while the synthetic, hydrophobic outer layers are not. It’s a nice compromise, and one that shows 7L’s commitment not just to practical, modular style but to Manchester, too.

In terms of style, silhouettes are sleek and minimal, unfussed and effortless but with deliberately clean, elegant lines.

Forget the copious zips and unnecessary pockets that plague technicalwear; here less is more, and it works.

Colourwise, ORIGIN sticks to a performance palette of black and orange with a healthy dose of dark camo in the distinctive, military-inspired Field Parkas.

This toned-down field of colours means that each piece will go with every other, from the incredibly versatile 7L Stretch Overshirt (£250) through to the bright Half Zip Smock (£295).

ORIGIN is an easily digestible collection, but one whose thoughtful, modular approach suits any conditions while retaining a sleek, stylish look. If 7L wanted to make a serious impact in the style stakes, mission accomplished.

Discover the full collection at sevenlayer.com

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

© Fraser Vincent

• 42mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • BR-CAL.301 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £4,800 (rubber strap), £5,200 (bracelet), bellross.com

BELL & ROSS BR05 Chrono

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© Fraser Vincent

FRONT — watch reviews

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FRONT — watch reviews

Since its release last year I’ve adored Bell & Ross’s answer to the Genta-esque trend for sporty, industrial steel watches, the BR05.

It’s slightly more elegant than their usually rigid square pieces ripped out of a cockpit, but still retains the overall characteristic look of the brand.

It’s every bit as functional of course, just with a more nuanced style and, compared to the rest of the sports luxe stable it’s competing with, rather affordable. But enough waxing lyrical about that particular watch, we’re here instead to talk about the newest addition, the BR05 Chronograph.

I’ve always felt like the purity of the BR05 didn’t need a chronograph. I assumed it would upset the otherwise minimal geometry of the piece and the simplistic clarity of the dial.

I still don’t think I was wrong… but the way Bell & Ross has gone about the new piece has very nearly sold me on it.

For one, the chronograph pushers and crown guard they’re mounted on are nicely squared and suit the dimensions of the watch perfectly. The way they’re mounted on the sloping sides of the 42mm stainless steel case means it still feels its size, and using it is far more satisfying than it has any right to be. It’s incredibly well-machined too, with a simple brushed finish leaning into the industrial stylistic roots.

The dial has been left almost untouched, with the addition of two chronograph counters that mirror the shape of the bezel in grey against the black (or blue if you insist). It’s a great neo-retro touch taken straight out of the 70s. The oversized 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock of the main dial are joined by the 60 and 30 of the running seconds and chronograph minutes respectively. Otherwise it’s about as minimal as a chronograph can be.

My only gripe in that regard would be the date. Oddly off-centre at 5:30-ish, it upsets the OCD symmetry and I would like to see a version without.

On the wrist it feels smaller than it looks; a 42mm square watch is a substantial amount of steel, but thanks to the integrated bracelet it’s relatively slim lug-to-lug. The watch comes on either a stainless steel bracelet or a rubber number.

As you can see, the bracelet suits it nicely in an unobtrusive kind of way, but I do prefer the look of the black rubber.

With a 100m water resistance, this isn’t a diving watch by any stretch of the imagination, again suiting the sports luxe

It still feels its size, and using it is far more satisfying than it has any right to be 103

crowd nicely. It’s about style over practicality after all, steel case or no. Equipped with an in-house calibre BR-CAL.301 and a respectable 42-hour power reserve, the automatic movement’s based on the ever-reliable ETA 2894-2.

When it comes to sports luxe, I still find that the BR05 is one of the few watches in that field I could justify shelling out for and, now, I’d say the same of the Chronograph.

I’d still opt for the time-only version myself, but for the many, many Genta-obsessed chrono lovers out there, the BR05 Chronograph is a seriously stylish contender. £4,800 (rubber strap), £5,200 (bracelet), bellross.com

© Fraser Vincent

FRONT — watch reviews

DELMA Cayman Worldtimer Automatic

THE SPECS

• 42mm stainless steel case with 500m water resistance • ETA 2893 automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve • £1,790 (leather strap), £1,890 (bracelet), delma.ch

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© Fraser Vincent

FRONT — watch reviews

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FRONT — watch reviews

It’s rare to find a diving worldtimer. The two types of watches have very different personalities, one being for professionals, the other for professional divers. Or at least that’s the general thinking which, as Delma’s Cayman Worldtimer shows, is a bit of a shame.

The first Cayman Automatic was a tried-and-tested diving watch, with an impressive 500m water resistance and an elegant look ripped from the 70s, all for an absurdly accessible price tag. It’s a seriously good entry-level diver with pro-level specs.

Despite being ostensibly a traveller’s watch, the Cayman Worldtimer Automatic retains the same case as the original, and thus the 500m water resistance. That’s unheard of in most worldtimers, which tend to spend their time in the air rather than the water. Except for a crash-landing at sea, in which case you have bigger problems than knowing the time in Bangkok.

It is reassuring, though. A 200m water resistance would do for everyday use, but knowing that you can swim with this thing – or scuba with it – makes for what might be the perfect holiday watch. Not only can you dive tropical waters with it, you can also tell precisely what time to call home and rub it in.

Of course, this isn’t a true worldtimer in the vein of Patek Philippe or Vacheron (or my own little Longines Master Collection number) in that all Delma has done is swap the unidirectional diving bezel for a bi-directional timezone version. It’s then read off the fixed 24-hour inner bezel instead of the other way around.

It’s a small difference visually but makes a huge difference mechanically, swapping out a costly complication for a cheap alternative, and it’s quite as useful. You need to align the bezel every time you want to read the worldtimer, making it more a conversion tool than your standard traveller’s complication.

Still, the 24-hour GMT hand does its job nicely, and the inner bezel is split into night (black) and day (blue) for easy reading. It’s a colour scheme that looks particularly lovely with the silver dial as opposed to the blue and black, which it can get slightly lost in.

On the wrist it looks fantastic and wears well enough and pretty much feels like you’d expect a retro 42mm stainless steel watch to feel. Even if you don’t dive it’s worth going for the mesh bracelet; it’s incredibly comfortable, breathable and generally good-looking. Plus you can get a spare leather number at the drop of a hat if you wanted to gussy up the Cayman for a dressier occasion.

Not only can you dive tropical waters with it, you can also tell precisely what time to call home and rub it in 107

The ETA 2893 movement is very handsome, with plenty of pearlage on the movement proper and cote de Geneve on the Delma-branded rotor. All of it can be seen through the sapphire caseback, making the 500m water resistance all the more impressive. There is a quartz version – the ‘Professional’ – if you’re on a budget, but it’s worth plumping that little bit more for the mechanical.

The Cayman Worldtimer is as handsome as it is affordable.

Sure, it lacks the diving bezel required to really use its depth resistance; at the same time the worldtimer is a little annoying to use thanks to the constant adjusting necessary. But it is a solid jack of all trades and versatile to a fault. If you were to take a trip with this as your one watch of choice, you wouldn’t need another – and that’s coming from someone who travels with at least three options. £1,790 (leather strap), £1,890 (bracelet), delma.ch

CULTURE — food & drink

In all honesty, since the curfew was imposed, it’s been hard going for the beleaguered British hospitality sector in general, and its newly launched restaurants in particular as about half of revenue in restaurants is wet-led, coming in during late-evening alcohol spends.

However, it’s not the end of dining out; operators seem to be sanguine, opening their doors and doing their best to make sure Londoners are well-fed and well-watered. Here you’ll find the most interesting launches of the month, with all eyes on KOL.

↑ KOL

9 Seymour Street – W1H 7BA London has been waiting with bated breath for Santiago Lastra’s restaurant KOL to launch for some time now. The thirtyyear-old chef, born and raised in Cuernavaca, has made quite a name for himself. Headhunted

by René Redzepi to helm Noma Mexico, Santi has since blazed a trail from strength to strength, gaining a reputation for his unique cooking, splicing his native Mexican cuisine with foraged and gleaned seasonal

British produce at Carousel London and supperclubs across the globe. Backed by the MJMK Group (Casa Do Frango), KOL opened its doors on Seymour Street in Fitzrovia and has been greeted with much fanfare. The dining room is a sight for sore eyes. Designed

by A-RND studio, it’s all earthy minimalism, with a colour palette that leans heavily into ochre and taupe with a dose of Nordic restraint.

There’s also a superb 20-cover chef’s table downstairs for those who’d like to get up close and personal with Lastra’s creative

process, with the added opportunity to sample bespoke dishes. Guests can choose between two tasting menus of either five or six courses for £55 and £70 per person, respectively.

Additionally, there’s a standalone mescaleria for anyone looking to be schooled in the fruits of agave and adventurous oenophiles will be rewarded with a list that leans heavily into wines of the natural and biodynamic variety. In short, it’s right on the mark to be everything we hoped it would. kolrestaurant.com

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EDITED BY NICK SAVAGE

RESTAURANT &BAR

NEWS

CULTURE — food & drink

↓ STORK

13-14 Cork Street – W1S 3NS

© johncarey2020

Stork has landed on Cork Street in the heart of Mayfair, bringing pan-African cuisine to its cosmopolitan clientele. Drawing inspiration from the transcontinental migratory journey of the eponymous avian, the menu plucks recipes from various countries across the planet, running the gamut from Brazil to the Caribbean, but always rooted in the flavours of the African continent. Prepared with the natural spices and eclectic indigenous produce that are characteristic of Africa, dishes include cassava dumpling soup with okra, yellow yam, iron back pumpkin and pimento salt; crispy spiced goat beignet with kpakpo shito condiment; and stuffed whole gilthead bream with spinach, rainbow chard, grilled lemon and pepper sauce. The design is in-keeping with its chic environs, putting together parquet flooring with swooping gunmetal grey velvet seating, wooden slatwork and white marble table tops. Expect quirky table settings including washed pebbles and ceramic eggshells. However, it’s the entrance that rules the roost, with a giant egg containing a golden waterfowl. storkrestaurant.com

↑ BARRAFINA MARISCOS 43 Drury Lane – WC2B 5AJ

The pandemic and its attendant lockdowns and curfews have presented unprecedented challenges to restaurateurs, but the best of them have utilised this time of upheaval to renovate, recalibrate and refresh. It’s unsurprising that Hart Brothers count themselves amongst this community, particularly with the relaunching of their Drury Lane Barrafina site as Barrafina Mariscos. Angela Zapata Martin has put pen to paper and created a menu that showcases the best of British and Spanish waters prepared with traditional Iberian methods. Urko Gochi is running the kitchens and preparing seafood worth its salt.

Dishes include quisquilla (blue-bellied shrimp); centolla (spider crab) a super banderilla marisqueria made with quail egg, piquillo and bocconcini peppers, anchovy, Manzanilla, Güeyu Mar smoked razor clam, cockle, mussel and tuna; sea cucumbers with tocino Iberico. Yes, this one hits. You can now book the restaurant (one of the silver linings of Covid times as their pre-lockdown queues could be formidable) and they’ve turned the basement subterranean dining room into an extended dining area. barrafina.co.uk

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© A&&O STUDIOS 2020

The menu showcases the best of British and Spanish waters

CULTURE — food & drink

array of terrines, charcuteries, salads and shellfish, as well as tableside dessert trolleys and a heavy-hitting wine list splitting the natural with the noble. The grand dining room, envisioned by British designer John Whelan, is a sprawling masterwork of Art Deco inspiration, with neo-industrial accents, an open-plan kitchen, oatmeal linens, off pink walls, a concrete-effect ceiling and a striking statement clock presiding over the room.

The restaurant may have recently launched but it already feels like a well-worn institution. Every facet is expertly considered. For those looking for French food executed with finesse, Maison François might be the closest you get to a trip to the City of Lights within the confines of Great Britain. maisonfrancois.london

→ MAISON FRANÇOIS

34 Duke Street – SW1Y 6DF Maison Francois has been launched by a veritable supergroup of restaurant folk. This includes restaurateur (and Baron) François O’Neill of Brompton Bar and Grill, sommelier and wine aficionado Ed Wyand of Verden and chef Matthew Ryle of The Dorchester and Isabel, who you may have also seen as a finalist on Masterchef: The Professionals in 2018. Open all day, with an adjoining wine bar named Frank’s, Maison Francois is serving an incredible greatest-hits list of Gallic cuisine, with a handsome

↓ PALI HILL

79-81 Mortimer Street – W1W 7SJ

© PATRICIA TOBIN

One of India’s top restaurant groups has landed in the UK for the first time, choosing Fitzrovia as its home base. Rahul Khanna and Kabir Suri have opened Pali Hill on Mortimer Street. Named for one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Mumbai, Pali Hill is inspired by the city’s building societies, centred around a culture of sharing and exploring the many flavours of India, while its standalone bar Bandra Bhai is a playful tribute to the smugglers’ operations that permeated 1990s India.

The diversity of the subcontinent’s food culture is brought into focus, with head chef Avinash Shashidhara assembling a menu that draws from all corners, with homebaked goods such as gluten-free rice, jagar and rowi flour flatbreads or sourdough roti ideal for mopping up incredible dishes such as tandoori monkfish

→ BINDAS EATERY

5 Princes Street – W1B 2LQ The transition from Westfield Shopping Centre to Mayfair is a pretty big leap but Mehak Kansal has made it look easy with the quirky, colourful ode to pan-Indian street food that is Bindas Eatery. There’s everything from refreshing watermelon chaat to hearty, slow-cooked lamb curry (Laal Maas), running the gamut of Punjabi, Delhi, Mumbai, Kerala and Jaipur specialities.

The standout is the butter chicken bomb. It’s what put Kansal on the map and rightly so; if you’re ever feeling a little down and need some serious comfort food, the BCB is the one. The restaurant itself is a little pokey, but given how quick service is, it’s not much of an issue, and also makes for a speedy, filling lunch – something the area needs more of. bindaseatery.com

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with mango pickle marinade and charred corn or Pali Hill spicy beef seekh kebab with cucumber, coriander, and lime. The dining room has been given a contemporary touch by CADA design, with midcentury Indian, Pondicherry yellow pillars, terrazzo floors and folk patterned furnishings. palihill.co.uk

CULTURE — travel

DON’T LET THE CONTINUED RESTRICTIONS of lockdowns and quarantines keep your feet in place. Sure, adrenaline junkies must adapt to temporary life without epic world-crossing quests – but while we’re forced to stick closer to home, it’s a chance to experience some of the most dramatic landscapes the UK has to offer. So, from calming stays beneath the stars to a trek across rugged Scottish isles, here are the five greatest mini-adventures on home shores.

Words:

Lewis Nunn

THE PATHS LESS TRAVELLED FIVE OF THE BIGGEST SMALL ADVENTURES ON BRITISH SOIL

The Royston in Powys promises retro styling and gorgeous views of the Welsh countryside

STAY AT:

1. T HE STA R RY N IGH T Level: Easy

‘Bothy’ is a word that may evoke slight trepidation for haute travellers, but you must visit this particular cabin for the best stargazing opportunities in Wales.

Hidden in the Elan Valley, Lluest

Cwmbach sits waterside, surrounded by reservoirs, woodland and not a person in sight as the sky floods with glittering jewels. Adventurers can doze off on rustic sleeping platforms with fuel stoves, but if you’re not quite ready to channel your inner Bear Grylls, retire to the Elan Valley Hotel just a 15-minute drive away.

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The Royston Situated in Powys, on the edge of the green stretch heading into the Elan Valley, The Royston’s mix of warming comfort and retro cool makes it a much more forgiving retreat than a bothy – though the views of the Cambrian Mountains are almost as stunning. theroystonwales.com

© Laurence Norah — findingtheuniverse

CULTURE — travel

2. W HISK E Y ’ S ROU T E 66 Level: Moderate

The North East 250 is Scotland’s ultimate road-trip route, winding through the mountains of the Cairngorms National Park and passing by relics and ancient sites like the Scottish baronial Ballindalloch Castle. Lay low in a cosy fishing village

along the Moray Firth Coast or make a stop on your 250-mile journey at one of the plethora of world-famous whisky distilleries in Speyside — perfect for sampling Glenlivet. As the night draws in, stretch out on a beach stroll along the rugged North Sea coastline with a Champagne picnic basket in hand, and gawp at the shimmering Northern Lights. There’s no better way to see Scotland.

There are 60 distilleries within 50 miles of the Station Hotel, with the closest – Glenrothes – a seven-minute walk away

STAY AT:

The Station Hotel With 60 distilleries dotted around Speyside, there’s a good chance that you’ll want a room for the night, which means a stay at The Station Hotel. It goes without saying that the well-appointed rooms are paired with a serious collection of spirits. stationhotelspeyside.com

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3. T HE C LOSE ENCOU N T ER Level: Medium STAY AT:

Millcombe House A classical villa built for the Heaven family, Millcombe House commands unsurpassed views of Lundy’s natural beauty. Want to feel like the lord of all you survey? This is the place for you – and 11 others of your personal aristocracy. landmarktrust.org.uk

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© JILL TATE

Submerge below the crystal waters and snorkel through emerald kelp forests and sunken shipwrecks

© Paul White Aerial views / Alamy Stock Photo

Lundy Island is just off the north coast of Devon, where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Bristol Channel

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Brave the choppy waters of the Bristol channel sailing onboard MS Oldenburg and drop anchor off the coast of North Devon on Lundy Island. Just three miles long, it’s dubbed ‘Britain’s own Galapagos’, home to rare lichens, herds of feral goats and wild ponies, pygmy shrews and the southwest’s largest seabird colony with Puffins and Manx Shearwaters. Ramble along the East coast where Primroses, Red Campion and Bluebells bloom — in fact, there are over 330 flowering species on the island — or, submerge below the crystal waters and snorkel through emerald kelp forests and sunken shipwrecks that welcome spiny lobsters, triggerfish and conger eel, before gazing straight into the eyes of an Atlantic grey seal; nuzzling you and planting a sloppy kiss.

CULTURE — travel

Dylan Thomas was such a regular at Brown’s hotel that he often gave the hotel’s phone number as his own

4. T HE COA STA L PAT H Level: Challenging

Trek the entire iconic coastline of South Wales on a section of the uninterrupted 870-mile Wales Coast Path with over 40 guided walks, nature trails and gruelling hikes from the Dee estuary to the banks of the River Wye in Chepstow. Starting in Llantwit Major, you’ll uncover its religious history dating back to 500AD, home to St Illtud’s Church, known as the ‘Westminster Abbey of Wales’, before hiking four miles along Monknash Coast where you can jaunt through the remains of Dunraven Castle and take shelter under the waterfalls of Dunraven Bay cliffs.

Push forwards on your trail and head to Laugharne, Carmarthen — this area is a famous breeding ground for writers; from Dylan Thomas to Richard Hughes, both crafting masterpieces in the summerhouse of Laugharne Castle.

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STAY AT:

Brown’s Hotel Since 1732 the likes Dylan Thomas, Patti Smith, Mick Jagger and President Carter have all stayed at this iconic literary address in Wales.

Brown’s remains a superlative boutique hotel with 13 luxurious rooms and, best of all, a monthly Poems & Pints evening. browns.wales

© Andy McCandlish

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5. T HE HEBR IDE A N WAY Level: Hard

Ride 185 miles across the Hebridean Way, where cyclists soak up the sights of ten Outer Hebrides islands boasting awe-inspiring wildlife, rugged hills and pristine white shell beaches set across the Atlantic coastline. Known as the ‘Gateway to the Isles’, start in the seafood capital of Scotland, Oban, with a plethora of history from the ruins of Dunollie Castle to its Colosseum lookalike, McCaig’s Tower, and hop on a ferry to the island of Vatersay. As the most southerly inhabited island of the Outer Hebrides, it bears a population of just 90, where seals outnumber humans, paddling in the turquoise waters surrounded by rich machair grasses and wildflowers. Admire the stunning Neolithic archaeology from the Dun Caolis burial chamber to Tacksman’s House and push forwards on your six-day expedition from Barra to the Butt of Lewis lighthouse as golden eagles soar overhead, guiding you — an epic trail like no other.

The Perle Oban Hotel & Spa was built in 1882 and offers the perfect base in which to recharge

STAY AT:

Perle Oban Hotel & Spa Make it back to your starting point in Oban and you’ll be in need of a spa day or five; that means a stay at the beautiful Perle Oban and the Mara spa, where Victorian grandeur meets indulgent treatments. By this point, you’ll deserve it. perlehotels.com

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The most southerly inhabited island of the Outer Hebrides, where seals outnumber humans 118

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Words:

Tom Pettit

LAID-BACK LIME WOOD If you’re after a more relaxed retreat than our adventures may allow, look no further than this holistic haven in the New Forest…

Each of Lime Wood’s well-appointed rooms contains a walking map to allow visitors to profit from its stunning surrounding countryside

It is obviously premium, but without trying too hard – effortless luxury defined

IF YOUR IDEA OF AN ADVENTURE is a welly-clad stroll through ethereal woodland, followed by near-perfect cocktails in an airy courtyard bar and a seasonally-sourced, hearty Italian meal, then Lime Wood is the place for you.

Located five minutes from the capital of the New Forest, Lyndhurst, it is easily reachable by, car, train, and helicopter – but just remote enough. The quintessential Georgian country house is impeccably well-groomed and showcases period features and an enviable art collection against a contemporary interior that is obviously premium, but without trying too hard – effortless luxury defined.

Though rooms in the main house offer a certain buzz, especially at nightcap hour, there are plentiful suites and rooms spread sympathetically about the grounds. The pavilion rooms offer the best of both worlds, with roll-top baths, log-burning stoves, and beautiful views of the rear of the house with terraces nestled into the pristine forest. There are also larger, cabin-style retreats dotted around which offer enough space for families.

The vibe of the whole estate is one of rejuvenation, and even the most hardened spa hater can be turned by the

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Hartnett Holder & Co deliver seasonally led Italian fare in the hotel’s restaurant

You’ll be hard-pressed to find a slicker country escape stay anywhere in the country outdoor warm pool or the hydrotherapy baths overlooking an oriental, bamboo rich scene.

As well as a large indoor pool, sauna and mud house, there is also a proper gym (my personal measure of any good hotel these days) with free weights and a squat rack. Once you’re finished working those glutes, the gym opens out onto a terrace on the second floor which offers a slice of Provence complete with rocky herb gardens and rustic furniture.

All that exercise is enough to whet anyone’s appetite. Thankfully Hartnett Holder & Co have you covered. Their Scullery menu offers Tuscaninspired fare with a scattering of small plates

available throughout the day from the trattoria piattini menu, including some seriously lavish charcuterie like smoked honeycomb lomo. A serious highlight.

The main event however is reserved for the evening. The seasonal à la carte menu showcases why Angela Hartnett is one of the best loved English chefs, with the English beetroot with hazelnut humus, ricotta and pumpkin double agnolotti and pork belly all being exceptional.

Overall you’ll be hard-pressed to find a slicker country escape stay anywhere in the country with the whole experience tied together by a relaxed atmosphere and instagrammable nooks at every turn. Looking for rustic comfort without the farmhouse vibes? Lime Wood is for you.

From Find out more at limewoodhotel.co.uk

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T H E

W A T C H - L O V E R

Forget blood and arteries: the heart of the watch lover beats with Swiss lever escapements and balance springs

WOLF 1834 ROADSTER ROLL, £219

The perfect horological travel roll for a grand tour of watchmaking hotspots, this pebble vegan leather number with diamond-satin lining and ebony macassar is an ode to classic British motoring with nods to the likes of Aston Martin, Jaguar and Bristol. With room for three timepieces and a secret, patentpending jewellery capsule inside the roll itself, you’ll never need to decide which of your driving watches to take for a spin again.

Edited By

SAM KESSLER

CHRISTMAS

GIFT GUIDE

wolf1834.com

IT MIGHT NOT FEEL LIKE IT RIGHT NOW, WHAT WITH MOST OF THE FESTIVE CHEER DRAINED OUT OF THE SEASON, BUT CHRISTMAS IS ALMOST HERE. SURE, THERE’S A VERY REAL CHANCE WE WON’T BE ABLE TO SPEND MUCH TIME WITH OUR FAMILIES BUT LET’S BE HONEST, FOR SOME OF US THAT’S A MIXED BLESSING AT WORST. EITHER WAY, GIFTS ARE EXPECTED AND GIFTS THERE SHALL BE – EVEN IF YOU’RE STRUGGLING A LITTLE TO THINK OF WHAT TO GET. WHETHER YOUR LOVED ONE’S A WATCH GEEK LIKE US, A PETROLHEAD WHOSE IDEAL CHRISTMAS CAROL IS IN THE KEY OF V12 OR A FOODIE OBSESSED BY YOUR FAMILY DINNER, WE HAVE THE PERFECT GIFT IDEA FOR THEM. READ ON AND ENJOY. YOU’RE WELCOME.

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JEAN ROUSSEAU BESPOKE STRAP, FROM £125 Nothing sets a watch off like a good strap, and for a particularly special watch it’s worth making sure the strap in question is perfect. Enter the leather maestros at Jean Rousseau, who offer a bespoke strap service starting at £125 for calf leather and going up from there, encompassing a huge number of colours, materials, linings and even gold or platinum handstitching. After all, for a truly singular timepiece, only the best will do. jean-rousseau.com

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One for the die-hard Rolex collectors out there

BESPOKE WATCH ARTWORK, FROM £250

Many of us see watchmaking as an art form but this is taking it a bit more literally. Working with each individual client and using photos of the watch in question, One Hour Watch will transform a humble (or not so humble as the case may be) timepiece into a bespoke commission. Sometimes the end result is relatively straightforward with the watch hands set at a meaningful time; sometimes it’s incredibly abstract, like the one shown here.

Either way, it’s always impressive.

The illustrations are made using alcohol-based markers and fine-tip pens in a range of sizes.

VINTAGE ROLEX: THE BOOK,

For more information, contact One Hour Watch on Instagram (@onehourwatch) or at watchtype.net

£37.50

The pinnacle of the Dutch automatic winding specialists’ impressive collection, the aptlynamed Black Series is a sleek, minimal take on the tech that has made them a watch obsessive’s favourite. With winding space for a battery of 8 watches and additional jewellery storage besides, this piece should cover the majority of your collection and, with 12 layers of paint, LED lighting and plenty of ergonomic touches, will last just as long.

If you’re ever in doubt, talk to an expert, and if you’re planning on delving into the murky world of vintage Rolex then there are few better than David Silver of the Vintage Watch Company. He literally wrote the book on the subject. This photographic archive presents over 1,800 pieces that have crossed the counter of the Vintage Watch Company’s world-renowned store, from early pocket watches to the legendary Daytona, complete with in-depth info on each. One for the die-hard Rolex collectors out there.

en.benson-watchwinders.com/

vintagewatchcompany.com

© LINYAO

BENSON BLACK SERIES 8-PIECE WATCH WINDER

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Edited By Adam Hay-Nicholls

T H E

P E T R O L H E A D

For when the only Christmas carol that matters is the sound of a V12 engine revving in the cold

LEGO TECHNIC BUGATTI CHIRON, £329

The insane performance and equally ridiculous price tag of the Bugatti Chiron make it less-than-accessible for most of us mere mortals, at least on a life-sized scale. This charming self-assembly model from Lego’s older brother on the other hand is a good deal easier to wrap up under the tree.

Authentic down to the typography on the headrest, it’s one of the largest and most detailed Technic sets yet and makes for a seriously cool denizen on any shelf of automotive geekery. It’s not a toy, it’s a model!

SMOKE AND MIRRORS: CARS, PHOTOGRAPHY AND DREAMS OF THE OPEN ROAD, £35

lego.com

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It’s one of the largest and most detailed Technic sets yet

Shameless plug for our motoring editor’s own book?

Possibly, but that doesn’t stop Smoke and Mirrors being one of the coolest collections of automotive photography we’ve ever seen. From abstract plumes of smoke to incredible vistas and machine -gun-mounted machines in Libya, your usual slick car imagery this is not. It is however a superlative coffee table book.

Wearing anything with the Ferrari badge front and centre might seem cool, but it suggests you can’t afford the car itself. There’s no such issue with the marque’s own Roma jacket. Sleek, elegant and made in Italy from soft nappa leather, this is a driving jacket worthy of the prancing horse. Thankfully, with the lack of badge anywhere easily visible, you’d never know.

foyles.co.uk

store.ferrari.com

FERRARI ROMA LEATHER JACKET, £3,500

DOM REILLY CRASH HELMET CASE,

£850

When you turn up to the track to take your road-illegal hypercar out for a spin, you can’t be taking your bespoke crash helmet – in your own personal racing livery, of course – out of a plastic bag. Instead, try this luxurious black number on for size. Designed in collaboration with the Williams F1 team, it can fit a helmet, head- and neck-support device and a few travel necessities besides. domreilly.com

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JYT BESPOKE ART ‘COOLNVINTAGE’,

£800

Automotive artist Jean-Yves Tabourot knows what makes petrolheads tick. In the case of this piece, it’s an obsessively-restored Land Rover Series 3 CoolnVintage in its natural environment, bumping along the dust and cacti of a desert. Bright, vivid and evocative, this piece perfectly captures why the Series 3 is a classic. And hey, if that doesn’t float your boat (what is wrong with you?) then you can always commission a painting too. It’s called JYT Bespoke for a good reason. jytbespokeart.com

© CHROMAtech 2014

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Bright, vivid and evocative, this piece perfectly captures why the Series 3 is a classic T H E

F I T N E S S

B U F F

Fitness is a state of mind, that much is true; but the right equipment definitely helps

THE MIRROR,

$1,450

If the gym isn’t an option, this is the next best thing. Offering a personalised training experience and linked to certified trainers from some of the most sought-after classes and fitness studios around, The Mirror offers unsurpassed feedback, customised playlists and syncing to your heart-rate monitor of choice to track your fitness goals. When not in use, it returns to being just your standard gym mirror. You’ll never miss a gym class ever again. mirror.co

GARMIN FORERUNNER® 945,

CADDYBOO GOLF TOWEL,

In the crowded market of wearables – most of which feel cheap and tacky – Garmin’s performance fitness watch is well ahead of the pack. As well as your usual heart-rate monitor and fitness trackers, it has dedicated profiles for different activities and can tell you what to expect in changes in heat and altitude. Powerful, versatile and fit for everything from a quick morning jog to a full triathlon, it’s the training partner you never knew you needed.

The last thing you want is dirty balls – and that goes double for golf, where a stray fleck of mud can upset your swing and add a vital shot to your game. The Caddyboo Golf Towel is a pocket-sized, waterproof cleaning system to solve any unforeseen club-ball connection issues that might arise. It’s simple, effective and a perfectly valid way to take your time while you plan your next big swing.

£519.99

buy.garmin.com

€21

caddyboo.co

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NOHRD DUMBBELLS, £5,749

Dumbbells aren’t often the most pleasantlooking additions to a home gym, but Water Rower – best known for its incredible manual treadmills and rowing machines – has applied its minimalist cool to the humble hand weight.

Housed in a spacesaving wooden rack, this comprehensive set of nine pairs of weights is made from nickel-plated steel with ergonomic grips and a lovely wooden finish in cherry, club ash or walnut. nohrd.com

PALACE CLIPPER BAG, £262 Elevate your gym bag above the usual scuffed, funky-smelling fare with this incredibly bright and equally versatile duffle-bag-come-rucksack from skating specialist Palace. Made from durable nylon with a rubber base, the detachable padded shoulder straps let you wear it in whatever way’s most comfortable for you, along with an additional side strap specifically for a board. It’s the perfect gym buddy, even if you’re more comfortable in a half- moon pose than a halfpipe. farfetch.com

HÖVDING 3 CYCLIST PROTECTION,

£249

Since lockdown everyone’s been on their bike which, given the capital’s propensity for arsehole drivers, isn’t all that safe. Enter the HÖVDING 3, the self-deploying airbag head protection for cyclists. Once set, it will automatically deploy if the wearer comes off their bike and is eight times more protective than your standard helmet. Plus it goes around your neck rather than on your head, meaning no helmet hair. Not the most important part for sure, but good to know. hovding.com

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Edit By Nick Carvell

T H E

S T Y L E

O B S E S S I V E

Even if your only social interaction is a Zoom call, that’s no excuse to let style lapse

JONATHAN ADLER BACKGAMMON SET, £395

At a time where it feels like we’re going back to the dark ages, why not use those looming circuit-breaker lockdowns to get really good at one of the world’s oldest games: backgammon. According to historians, backgammon originated in the Middle East around 5,000 years ago, but designer Jonathan Adler has brought it bang up-to-date with his signature style, splashing the board with an eye-popping array of colours. It’s proof that nothing is too classic for a remix every few millennia. jonathanadler.com

BILLY RUFFIAN MALVERN BROGUES, £160 Is there a more timeless shoe than the not-so-humble brogue?

Unlikely. It’s a classical sartorial staple and deserves a place in any wardrobe. The hand-crafted (and well-priced) Malvern from Billy Ruffian shows why, with a flexible Derby design, antiqued russet colouring and plenty of ornate tooled leather.

Timelessness personified in a pair of shoes, these brogues are for life, not just for Christmas. billyruffianshoes.co.uk

ANGLO-ITALIAN SELVEDGE JEANS,

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE: THE FIRST TWENTY YEARS BY RIZZOLI,

£240

Spending the past six months in track bottoms has probably meant you’re now keen to slip into something that’s on the smarter side of slouchy while working from home – and for that, a pair of crisp new jeans is just the ticket. Cut from 13oz Japanese selvedge denim with a flattering mid-rise waist and tapered leg, these black jeans will look just as slick with a blazer and loafers as they will with a chunky rollneck and slip-on house shoes – which, let’s face it, is far more likely as my go-to outfit over the next few months. angloitalian.com

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£57.50

Twenty years ago, Frédéric Malle established his eponymous perfume house – the key twist being that each fragrance would be a collaboration between Malle and another respected nose. Now Malle is releasing a book looking back on the past two decades, which is not only frankly indispensable for any fragrance geeks out there, but also beautifully presented in graphic-novel form. fredericmalle.co.uk

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LAVAIR ‘CREATOR’ TRAINERS, £175 Founded in 2019, British sneaker-maker Lavair launched itself into an incredibly crowded market – and still managed to stand out. Its USP? Rather than riff on existing silhouettes, it went for a selection of shapes that feel truly fresh, crafted them from luxurious fabrics and embellished them in ways that feel both eye-catching and distinctly wearable. Case in point, the ‘Creator’ model, its chunky white sole complemented by sporty black, grey and blue detailing. It’s basically ‘go-faster stripes’ in shoe form. lavairbrand.com

T H E

T E C H

J U N K I E

Gadgets, gear and ground-breaking innovations… just nothing last-gen, please

NAIM MU-SO FOR BENTLEY, £1,799

If you’re worried about getting stuck at home much longer, it’s worth investing in a serious all-in-one audio system; Naim’s flagship mu-so not only plays any format you care to name, but in its latest edition pays homage to the luxurious interiors of the Bentley EXP 100 GT. It can also be scaled up to a full, multi-room system with sound quality as fantastic as the new, stunning copper-and-Africanhardwood aesthetics. naimaudio.com

NETGEAR MEURAL CANVAS II, £649.99

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Choose from over 30,000 works from iconic artists and up-and-comers both

Digital photo frames are generally a bit eye-roll-inducing, but the Meural Canvas II sets itself apart in two ways. Firstly, it looks fantastic – as close to real as a digital screen can get thanks to its innovative TrueArt Technology.

Secondly, you can choose from over 30,000 works from iconic artists and up-and-comers both, switching between them to match your mood or the time of day. Or just ask Alexa to do the work for you; may as well add art curator to her ever-growing CV. store.netgear.co.uk

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DJI OSMO POCKET, £329

LINN SERIES 3, FROM £2,950

Audiophiles are ever apt to dismiss wireless speakers: ‘They’re just not as good!’ they cry from their sound-proofed pulpits. Well, introduce them to the Linn Series 3 and you may well have a conversion on your hands. Linn’s first plug-and-play masterpiece is elegant, precise and matches its room-filling clarity with flowing curves and natural materials – and in the Harrods-exclusive launch piece, a luxurious gold grille, switched to chrome at Linn’s own stores and Selfridges. The perfect start to a serious multi-room system. linnproducts.co.uk

LG FULL HD 1080P CINEBEAM COMPACT PROJECTOR, £469 Now that we’re in the 4K era, your old projector’s just not gonna cut it anymore. Instead, upgrade and downsize in one fell swoop with LG’s latest portable number, able to project an up-to-100-inch display. It automatically aligns to the surface to correct for distortion, has 2.5 hours of battery life (enough for most films short of The Irishman) and can fit in a rucksack easily. It’s portable performance perfection; in lieu of actual cinemas, LG’s latest CineBeam is the next-best thing. lg.com

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Professional videographers, be afraid. For less than £350, this pocket-sized camera is a fully-stabilised 4K powerhouse, able to take clean, clear and completely shake-free shots at a moment’s notice. You can even set what the camera focuses on for a touch of cinematic flair, and link it to your phone to preview on a larger screen. Looking for a portable video camera to up your vlogging out and about?

Look no further. dji.com

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This pocketsized camera is a stabilised 4K powerhouse

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KEF LS50 WIRELESS II SPEAKERS, £2,250

WHARFEDALE DIAMOND 12.4 SPEAKERS, £699

Wireless streaming doesn’t need to mean a dropping of quality, as LEF’s latest, visuallycharming piece of audio tech proves. Despite minimal set-up being required through the KEF Connect app, the tech hidden in this curved, minimal cabinet is bleeding-edge, including the world’s first application of Metamaterial Absorption Technology, which all but eliminates highfrequency distortion. That means a wonderfully pure, natural sound. For something that can fit on a bookshelf, that’s pretty spectacular.

If you’re after something with a bit more heft than a bookshelf speaker but don’t want to splash out on the top end of the audiophile spectrum, look no further than the latest Diamond 12 Series from British manufacturer Wharfedale.

Combining proprietary Klarity™ (an advanced, lowdistortion material) cones with a low-damping surrounds, this series – especially the phenomenal floorstanding 12.4 speakers – might have an affordable price tag, but they certainly don’t sound it.

kef.co.uk

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The tech hidden in this curved, minimal cabinet is bleeding-edge

wharfedale.co.uk

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T H E

E P I C U R E A N

Eat, drink and be merry… preferably with a raft of artisanal cheeses and a solid burgundy or two

WINES & RECIPES

BY RAUL DIAZ, £30

After 15 years as a leading wine expert, you’d expect Raul Diaz to know a thing or two about the stuff. In his book – with a foreword from none-other than Michel Roux Jr – Diaz goes through 50 different grape varieties and pairs each with dishes inspired by both his travels and his Chilean heritage. The result is vibrant, flavourful array of non-traditional pairings to get tastebuds and imaginations flaring. wine-training.squarespace.com

RÉMY MARTIN XO GOLD, £180 Rémy Martin is marking the holiday season with a gold leaf-draped version of its superlative XO expression, housed in an exclusive gold coffret box, with nods to what really makes the Fine Champagne Cognac: exceptional terroirs, time and talents. Think floral notes of jasmine and iris, figs, sweet candied orange and prunes, and an exceptional, smooth balance.

Christmas in a bottle.

Available exclusively at Harrods, harrods.com

LA PAVONI ESPERTO LEVER COFFEE MACHINE, £1,499

If Jules Verne moonlighted as a barista, this is what he’d use. The industrial, steampunk style of La Pavoni’s cutting-edge coffee machine was created by renowned Italian designer Carlo Galizzi and doesn’t just look fantastic. For dedicated coffee-lovers, the variable pressure from the lever allows you to customise your espresso through repeatable extraction curves. We’d explain what those are, but more coffee is needed. smeg.com

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FIZZICS DRAFTPOUR, £129.99

Good craft ale deserves to be shown off to the full, and this beer lover’s dream gadget can help.

Just plug in your can or bottle of choice and the DraftPour will pump it out as a luscious, microfoamy draught beer. Just pull the handle and you’re off. Not only does it enhance the natural flavour of the brew in question; it’s the closest thing to the pub we’re likely to get this season. firebox.com

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DraftPour will pump your can of choice out as a draught beer” T H E

( W O U L D - B E )

MASTERCLASS SUBSCRIPTION, £14.17/month (billed annually)

If mealtimes are just getting that little bit too predictable, online seminar platform MasterClass might be able to help. Offering cooking classes from the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Wolfgang Puck, the site’s lesson plans cover every aspect of culinary excellence. When heading to cooking classes isn’t exactly Covid-safe, this is a decent alternative to go at your own pace. Plus once you’re done with fine dining, there’s always ‘The Art of Performance’, courtesy of Usher. masterclass.com

G L O B E -T R O T T E R

Travel may be nigh-impossible, but dreams of wanderlust aren’t so easily kept locked up at home

GLOBE-TROTTER NO TIME TO DIE CARRY-ON CASE, £1,905

The 25th Bond film is once again a long way off, but Globe-Trotter has tapped into to some serious superspy style in its dark, moody, jet-setting capsule collection. Made from vulcanised fibreboard in ocean green with black trim, this four-wheel carry-on is inspired by the cases used in the film and will look the part, even if No Time to Die never does get released. Just try not to get shot at. globe-trotter.com

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TRIUMPH & DISASTER ‘ROAD LESS TRAVELLED’ DOPP KIT, £45 Inside this rugged, olive-green canvas bag, you’ll find a selection of travel-sized versions of this New Zealand grooming brand’s best hair products: a shampoo, a conditioner and three styling preparations, as well as a branded cotton face cloth. Sure, you might not be travelling much right now, but with this kit at least you can go to new places with your hairstyle in the morning. triumphanddistasteruk.com

CONTIGO AUTOSEAL LUXE TRAVEL MUG, £29.52

No road trip is complete without a trusty travel mug to keep your caffeine buzz going. This particular version from Contigo not only keeps

your ultra-strong brew hot for five hours, but is also 100-per-cent spill-proof, thanks to its lockable, push-button tech. You can even, dare we say it, use it for cold drinks too. The fact that it looks a good deal nicer than your average plastic mug is a comparative fringe benefit. amazon.co.uk

MONOS CLEANPOD UVC STERILIZER, $90 Cleanliness is next to godliness, and the Monos CleanPod is like Zeus’s lightning bolts when it comes to dealing with Covid-19 while out and about. Quick, efficient and travel-sized, just shine it on anything bacteria may be clinging to and scour even the most dubious AirBnB, without the need for stringent, skindrying alcohol gel. The fact that it looks sleek and minimal is just the icing on the newly-disinfected cake. monos.com

CUTLER & GROSS 1364 AVIATORS, £390

Nothing gets you raring to go away like a new pair of sunglasses – which might make the next few months a little disappointing, really. Still, when we can travel again, this reimagined take on classic aviator style from Cutler and Gross is incredibly cool. Between the matte navy frames, light brown lenes and squared, more masculine take on the oversized classic shades, they’re worth booking a plane ticket for. cutlerandgross.com

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Just shine it on anything bacteria may be clinging to

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T H E

K I D S

Because they can’t have a puppy every Christmas…

THE LITTLE CAR COMPANY BUGATTI BABY II, £27,000

Yes this is extravagant but let’s be honest, it’s not entirely for the kid, is it? This incredible 75-per-cent-scale Type 35 racer is about as authentic as these things get, right down to the classic, four-spoke steering wheel in the cockpit. The electrically-powered mini-car has a base top speed of 12mph but scales up from there if you really want to start exploring the extras, with a fully charged range of about 15.5 miles. Yes it’s a toy… but only just.

LE TOY VAN OXFORD TOY KITCHEN, £199

It’s never to early to hone their culinary skills and while we doubt this charmingly colourful, downsized number quite hits Michelin-star standards, every budding head chef needs to start somewhere. Complete with a (thankfully heat-free) oven, hob, microwave and raft of utensils, the sustainable wooden design is country chic at its finest.

bugattibaby.com

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The mini-car has a base top speed of 12mph

harrods.com

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FRONT — gift guide

LEGO CREATOR OLD TRAFFORD, £249.99

There’s no accounting for taste, but if you have passed the sins of the father onto your children (and with them a season ticket to see Manchester United) then in lieu of match days you might want to consider this.

The nearly 4,000 piece set is a perfect replica of Old Trafford, right down to the Munich Clock and Sir Alex Ferguson statue.

If you can’t get to the Theatre of Dreams yourself, this isn’t a bad substitute at all. lego.com

WONDER WORKSHOP CUE ROBOT, £199

Designed for kids 11 and up, this little robot isn’t just a Pixar mascot in the making; it’s an educational tool designed to teach code, starting from block-based and running up to state-machine and text-based. The award-wining Cue offers a deep, versatile platform for self-exploration and building problem-solving, engineering and design skills.

It’s also pretty adorable to boot. store.makewonder.com

UBER GAMES OUTDOOR CHESS SET, £400

It’s never too early to learn the game of kings and, as we get more and more restricted to our gardens, this oversized outdoor chess set makes a nice alternative to repeatedly throwing a ball over the neighbour’s fence. Lightweight and complete with an all-weather board, it’s a good deal easier to handle than a Sicilian Defense. Given it’s winter though, you might want to try it inside for now. ubergames.co.uk

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CULTURE — unsung heroes

Words:

Ken Kessler

THE UNIVERSAL GENÈVE SPACE-COMPAX All the hallmarks of one of the most soughtafter watches in history, without the price tag…

For some, it’s the name on the dial. For others, it’s what lurks within. Ideally, both are noteworthy, and you end up with a Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ or an original Panerai Radiomir … and six-figure price tags. But the best-kept secrets (and biggest bargains) are, for obvious reasons, those wristwatches with killer movements but less-evocative logos. So how about a gem of a chronograph with the exact same movement as a ‘Paul Newman’, but for 1-5% of that Rolex’s price and with the same funky ‘70s kitsch visuals?

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The Universal Genève Space-Compax was thought to be equally suitable for diving and motorsport

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That is what you’ll pay for the Universal Genève Space-Compax. Despite a recent upswing in value thanks to certain bloggers, it can still be yours for £10-15,000 in near-mint condition, while ‘Paul Newmans’ start at £100,000 and can easily top £1m, following the sale of Newman’s own for £15m. And yet the Space-Compax, like a few hundred other models from the era, is powered by the same calibre, the greatest serial-production, manually-wound chronograph movement of all time.

Let’s get the movement out of the way first, because Valjoux 72 collectors probably outnumber Universal Genève enthusiasts, and I’m one of them, proud to own four or five watches with said calibre (no, I don’t own a ‘Newman’…). It’s a development of the Valjoux 23, produced at a time when most companies – including prestige makers such as Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe – bought chronograph movements from outside specialist suppliers. That’s one to silence the ‘manufacture’ obsessed.

There are variants on the calibre, including versions with calendar and moonphase, but the basic ’72 is found in the Space-Compax and, yes, the early Rolex ‘Daytona’ Cosmograph. As for the functionality, it offered two-button operation with a 12-hour chronograph counter 6:00, a 30-minute counter 3:00, central 60-second chronograph sweep hand, conventional hour and minute hands and a small seconds counter at 9:00.

So far, so normal, but there is a visual giveaway if you happen to be bitten by the bug. The upper pusher is slightly closer to the winding crown than the lower, when most chronographs offer equidistant pushers. Add to it the aforementioned column wheel, superb accuracy, and reliability and longevity thanks to its relaxed 18,000 beats per hour, and you can understand why the high-end manufacturers who purchased it for their own usage rated this alongside legendary chronograph movements from Lemania and Minerva.

Until this century, Universal Genève ranked with Heuer, Breitling, Minerva, Longines, Gallet and the best of the chronograph specialists. It’s believed that Universal Genève contributed to the watch lexicon the term ‘Compax’ to describe sub-dial layouts, as many as four if you added moonphase and calendar (on a model once favoured by noted collector Eric Clapton). The Space-Compax seen here is a version of the standard three-sub-dial models simply marked ‘Compax’, while the two-sub-dial models were called ‘Uni-Compax’. Go figure.

Released in the late 1960s to capitalise on the space race, and possibly in the hope that NASA might consider it, the Space-Compax was one of many non-NASA-approved models which never left terra firma, like Rolex’s rare Space-Dweller and too

many others to list. What it boasted were an unusual font for the 12, modernist hands and a bold red sweep hand for the main chronograph seconds. Initially, too, it featured plastic-and-rubber covers for the pushers, but these swiftly perished, so some, like the watch seen here from the editor’s collection, were found or even factoryfitted with unadorned ‘mushroom’ pushers.

Variants – naturally – exist, which affect values, the most important being the original Gay Frères bracelet.

Add that, plus the plastic pusher covers, and you could pay £15,000 for a minter, but watches free of any patination are hard to find because the bezels were anodised aluminium, and the coating on the edges wore off easily, while the lume should show its age.

Also desirable is a later version with black sub-dials and different indices, in the form of bars with ‘U’s around them, and missing the spacey ‘12’ at the top.

OK, so it’s not a ‘Paul Newman’, but trust me: wear one of these to any gathering of watch nerds and it will elicit similar “Ooohs” and “Aaahs.” For 1% of the price.

You can understand why the high-end manufacturers rated this alongside legendary chronograph movements from Lemania and Minerva The Space-Compax’s Valjoux 72 movement is considered among the most reliable of all time

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CULTURE — auction

LONDON JEWELS Bonhams, London, 12 November

AUCTION WATCH

Sotheby’s, Geneva, 11 November

‘Important’ is the right word in relation to Sotheby’s upcoming Geneva auction.

Even by the city’s horological auction standards, this selection of Patek Philippes, Audemars Piguets, Breugets and of course Rolexes offers more than a few grail watches. Indeed, there are only a handful of pieces in the catalogue with estimates under CHF 50,000.

On the more niche side though there’s one that really stands out: the Gérald Genta Ref. GGm1. The possibly unique grand and petite Sonnerie was likely made for the Prince of Brunei and illustrates why Genta was one of the most influential watch designers in the world. Estimated at CHF 100,000, it’s a lot more interesting than another Paul Newman Daytona.

View the full catalogue at sothebys.com

THIS MONTH’S BIDS AND PIECES

Looking to score some serious points with the other half this Christmas?

Bonhams’ London Jewels auction is set to offer an incredible array of haute joaillerie, ranging from mid-century semi-precious numbers to gargantuan rubies, galaxies of diamonds and a matching necklace and bracelet combination from Harry Winston.

IMPORTANT WATCHES FEATURING MASTERWORKS OF TIME

The top of the bejewelled pile is an important fancy pink diamond ring from Meister, circa 1968, flanked by geometrically-cut white diamonds. It’s magnificent and should be too, with an estimate of £550,000.

View the full catalogue at bonhams.com

URBAN ART SIGNATURE AUCTION range of KAWS vinyl figurines for smaller-scale collections.

The highlight though is, of course, a Banksy, specifically his Urban and street art is bigger than ever and no, not just because famous banana-laced take on Pulp Fiction. The Screenprint has an of Banksy. Hosted by the world’s estimate of $16,500 which is largest auctioneer, Heritage Auctions is presenting a seriously substantial, but a decent entry point to one of the most soughtimpressive collection of pieces after contemporary artists from the likes of Alex Monopoly, Mr Brainwash, Daniel Arsham and working today.

View the full catalogue at ha.com Mark Drew. There’s even a cool

© 2020 Heritage Auctions

Heritage Auctions, Dallas, 11 November

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IN FOCUS AN INSIGHT INTO THREE FASCINATING BRANDS Edited By

SAM KESSLER

Zero West, Aquastar and Winfield

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Aerospace-grade materials, computer-controlled multi-axis machines, cutting-edge tolerances, if this wasn’t a watch magazine you’d probably assume I was talking about one of two things: a racing team or Elon Musk’s mission to Mars. Instead, all three are vital to the humble craft of watchmaking – at least as far as British brand Zero West is concerned.

Situated in Emsworth, near Portsmouth on the idyllic south coast of England, Zero West isn’t exactly situated in the hub of global watchmaking.

Seaside getaways, perhaps. But then Zero West isn’t exactly what you’d call a traditional watch brand either. The brainchild of black ops engineer Graham Collins and graphic designer Andrew Brabyn, Zero West is proving to be a dark horse in the British watch world.

Its use of performance-grade materials is fitting, given the inspirations behind the timepieces. At one end of the (tachymeter) scale you have the Automotive collection and its overt racing roots, whether that’s the simpler, racer-slanted TT-58 or the superlative Land Speed, which imitates the sporting stopwatches of yore. Both boast plenty of automotive details, including a healthy dose of knurling.

At the oxygen-deficient end of the scale you instead have the aeronautical likes of the S4, which not only could slot nicely into the dashboard of a restored Spitfire but also, in the limited edition version, contains parts of one. They’re not the only retro pilot’s watches out there – or even on home shores – but they’re definitely among the most striking, right down to the contrasting, oversized crowns inspired by joystick gun platform fire buttons.

A good part of that is an element that runs throughout the Zero West collection: the lugs. More specifically, the way the case joins them. The two look like they’ve simply been bolted together rather than being built as one complete piece. The result is a distinct, industrial look that carries through the brand’s entire collection, even the marine chronometer-inspired Longitude 1 and 2.

If there’s one other thing that defines Zero West though, it’s its innate Britishness. There’s a good reason the brand’s at home on the south coast; in every watch they release, they seem to be paying homage to some aspect of British engineering heritage, whether that’s motoring with a chequered flag and a touch of British racing green or our mastery of the oceans via latitude and longitude.

Of course, while they are built here in the UK (doing a great deal of good for the local industry besides) the movements are not. Instead, Zero West has ensured that the calibres inside its watches are

© Christopher Ison

ZERO WEST

Zero West’s watches come in three collections: Automotive, Aviation and Marine

The result is a distinct, industrial look that carries through the brand’s entire collection equal to the clean-cut mechanics of the cases by opting for the horological classic that is the ETA 2824 automatic movement. That means a 38-hour power reserve and the kind of reliability any engineering obsessive could demand.

Between the patriotic designs, solid watchmaking and industrial good looks, there’s plenty to love about Zero West. Sure, they aren’t for everyone – these are statement pieces, after all – but they have all the ingredients of a future British classic.

Find out more at zerowest.watch

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© 2019 Jay Mitchosky All Rights Reserved

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AQUASTAR Tool watches are the mainstay of pretty much any diving horologist’s stable, the kind of watches designed for one task and one task only: helping someone survive the depths. Sometimes it’s just the inclusion of a diving bezel, sometimes it’s something a little more than that. Whatever the case, there’s one name every diving tool watch has to thank for its existence: Aquastar.

Back in the early 60s, like today, most watch brands decided breadth was better than depth, both metaphorically and literally. They preferred to try their hands at a lot of things rather than specialise, hoping to cater to more collectors. Aquastar on the other hand went the opposite route.

The name originated with Jean Richard, one of the oldest Swiss watchmakers of the era, who had some success with the 1958 Aquastar 60. Well, ‘some’ success is putting it very mildly, given it was on the wrist of Captain Don Walsh of the Mariana Trench-diving bathyscaphe Trieste. More than that, it became one of the archetypal diving designs of the 60s.

In 1962, the name was launched as its own sub-brand, under the auspices of one Frédéric Robert. Robert was more diver than watchmaker and saw a hole in the market for watches designed for serious underwater specialists, more instruments than accessories. He was more inclined to consult scientists and diving professionals than your usual horologists, and it showed with Aquastar filing no fewer than ten patents, with a collection based around each.

Of all the watches, one stood out above the rest – and still does, in cult collecting circles. The Deepstar was introduced in 1965 and featured, among other things, decompression calculations across multiple dives, based on the diving tables of the French Navy. It was – and still is – a unique function of anything bar a diving computer. It was an instant classic… and then the quartz crisis came.

Like many a watchmaker now relegated to obscurity, Aquastar didn’t make it much past Seiko’s invention of the battery-powered watch – at least, not in any meaningful way. That is until Rick Marei, the same man who all but relaunched Doxa (a name now very much in ascendency) took it on. Now Aquastar is back and with it the relaunch of the legendary Deepstar.

Along with the unique bezel that made it a classic, there’s a lot to love about the 2020 Deepstar. Available with black, grey or blue dials, the charming, overtly 60s case is a flawless stand-in for the archival models – as are the chunky retro hour markers at 12, 6 and 9. The hand at 9 o’clock,

in case you were wondering, is a running indicator, a quick reference to know that you’re not screwed mid-dive.

Inside is a custom La Joux-Perre calibre equipped with a column wheel chronograph and a solid, 55-hour power reserve and a skeletonised rotor, everything you want in a tool chrono. Granted tool chrono is a little bit of an oxymoron – extra holes in the case, less depth resistance – but damn if it’s not appealing.

Supplied with both a matching Tropic rubber strap (another brand relaunched by Marei’s magic touch) and a dressier leather number, the Deepstar 2020 is as instantly recognisable as the original and makes for a fantastic launchpad for the new Aquastar Era. Next up… the regatta timer? Here’s hoping.

Find out more at aquastar.ch

Originally launched in the 1960s, the Deepstar has been relaunched for 2020 with all its functionality intact

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WINFIELD There are plenty of watches with a solid naval heritage; most of the big players of the Swiss horological world have dabbled in overseas military ops at some point in their illustrious histories. The operative word there though is ‘dabbled’. After all, those watches weren’t created by the guys that were actually going to wear them.

The same can’t be said of Winfield watches.

Winfield founder Mark B Miller spent ten years of his extensive military service in naval intelligence, working with Naval Special Warfare and Naval Aviation supporting tactical missions in Iraq. We’re talking about a man who has seen action and knows what a serious watch needs to survive – and who knew that, in 2019, it was time a credible watch company stepped up to the plate.

That said, it wasn’t just a case of starting Winfield from scratch. While living overseas, Mark decided he needed a hobby and, like many a mechanically-fascinated would-be watchmaker turned to the chaotic realm of custom Seikos.

If you’ve not delved into that particular well, it’s worth a look, even if you might never come out again. It’s the perfect entry point to self-taught watchmaking.

After that, Mark took his hobby one step further, creating pilot’s watches for friends and family, working things out as he went, from thermally bluing screws to assembling his own automatic movement. From there, Winfield watches was just a short – albeit momentous – step.

Winfield doesn’t make mil-spec watches; what it does make however is rugged, field-tested adventure watches with a distinct vintage military design. The Mission Series looks like a modern evolution of the old, military Breguets and Blancpains with their notched bezels and aviation-friendly, lumed dials.

Winfield watches are, however, bigger at 41mm – not oversized by today’s standards, but large compared to their aesthetic progenitors, bringing them more in line with contemporary adventurous tastes. Otherwise they have one thing going for them above all else: they are built to survive.

That means a selection of heavy duty straps in a number of different styles and incredibly solid heat treated 316L around a quartz movement.

After all, a mechanical movement’s all well and

The Mission series watches are designed for serious adventure, tested by Team Winfield in all manner of outdoor conditions

We’re talking about a man who has seen action and knows what a serious watch needs to survive good until it lets you down halfway up a cliff face.

Prestigious as automatic and manual-wind calibres are, they are comparatively fragile, something a serious adventurer just can’t afford – and Team Winfield are serious adventurers.

Team Winfield is the watch company’s secret weapon. A group of climbers, athletes and general outdoors maniacs, if anyone’s going to put an adventure watch through its paces, its them. The fact that Winfield’s Mission Series has survived a multitude of expeditions speaks volumes for the build quality behind them.

So, to summarise: you have military-style adventure timepieces designed by an ex-Naval Intelligence officer and tested by serious adventurers. The fact that they are eminently affordable (our personal favourite, the grey and black MT1/S is just $399) is just the icing on the proverbial cake. Or the snow at the top of the mountain.

Find out more at winfieldwatch.com

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MICROBRAND

CORNER From avant-garde accessibility to niche haute horology, this is the latest and greatest from the creative world of microbrands

Makina Uriel III

The pulsometer is fast becoming a retro icon, the kind of watch that harks back to the bygone era of early medicine. Makina’s take on it though is anything but. Using the unusually curvaceous, 40mm Uriel case, the Uriel III is a striking reinterpretation of a doctors’ watch. For a touch more character, the quirky oversized numerals for 9 and 3 o’clock are on their sides, dividing the typography on the dial into four quadrants.

The Uriel III comes in a trio of new dial colours: white, gunmetal and our favourite of three, a deep teal blue dial with bright red pulsometer indicators. Both are currently available to pre-order in limited runs of 500 pieces. makinawatches.com

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THE SPECS

• 40mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Miyota 821A automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • $599 (approx.£460), makinawatches.com

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THE SPECS

• 41mm bronze case with 500m water resistance • ETA 2893 Elaboré automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • From €830, marcandsons.de

Marc & Sons GMT Bronze Black Blue

The halfway house between a traveller’s dual-time-zone watch and a solid, high-spec professional diver, Marc & Sons’ take on the classic GMT has pretty much every base covered.

The black and blue 24-hour bezel made famous by the Rolex ‘Batman’ works perfectly with the 41mm bronze case.

Fit with a top of the line ETA 2893 Elaboré automatic movement and boasting a serious 500m water resistance, it’s not a true professional diver per se, but it’s only a unidirectional rotating bezel away. Otherwise it has the makings of a perfect everyday watch: reliability, ruggedness and really good looks. marcandsons.de

It’s not a true professional diver per se, but it’s only a unidirectional rotating bezel away

Firle Sennen

It takes a talented designer to skirt the line between rugged and elegant, which makes 27-year-old Brit Will Martin worth taking note of, and not just because he reminds us of our ages. The founder of Firle Watches has, in the Sennen, joined those polar opposites into a piece with an impressive specs sheet paired with the aesthetic sensibilities of a dress watch – the best of both worlds.

Powered by the STP1-11 calibre movement, complete with ETA-level finishing and a 44-hour power reserve, protected by 100m water resistance and an Incabloc shock absorption system, the Sennen opts for ‘less is more’ in looks only – looks which are available in a variety of refined colourways.

THE SPECS

• 40.8mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • STP1-11 calibre automatic movement with 44-hour power reserve • £495, firlewatches.com • Use code ‘supportsmall’ for 10% off

firlewatches.com

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THE SPECS

• 42mm stainless steel case with 500m water resistance • ETA 2824-2 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • $725 (Approx. £555), magrette.com

Magrette

Moana Pacific Waterman Vintage

Since its introduction in 2016, Magrette’s Waterman has become an archetype for retro diving microbrand releases with its elegant look and solid build, particularly in the lovely bronze edition. Now Magrette is adding to the Moana Pacific Waterman Vintage collection with a black tough black ceramic bezel and black dial, paired with the sepia of vintage-style lume.

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Otherwise the new watch retains all the characteristics that have made the Waterman the microbrand alternative to a Panerai: the cushion-shaped case, generous 42mm size and an ever-reliable ETA2824-2 automatic movement protected by solid water resistance.

It’s popular for a reason. magrette.com

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Between the octagonal case and the skeletonised forged carbon dial... this is anything but your standard retro diver startup

THE SPECS

• 42mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £265, sovrygnwatches.com

Sovrygn

Successor Automatic Tackling the sports-luxe sub-section of watches is easier said than done, yet Canadian watch brand Sovrygn has come out of nowhere with its incredibly eye-catching Successor.

Between the octagonal case and the skeletonised forged carbon dial – which, if you don’t know your cartography, illustrates the hydrological regions of Nigeria, the founder’s home country – this is anything but your standard retro diver startup. That goes double when it gets dark and the entire dial lights up

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with lume. While most skeletonised, mechanical timepieces with a Genta slant come with a prestige price tag, the Successor will set you back just £265. For the fledgling brand’s first timepiece, that’s a statement worth sitting up and taking note of. £265, sovrygnwatches.com

END — moviewatch

BANG TO RIGHTS

Charlie Hunnam sports a yellow gold Rolex DayDate in The Gentlemen

M OVIE WATC H

The Gentlemen Guy Ritchie loves a good gangster romp, preferably full of thick accents and over-the-top machismo and his latest, The Gentlemen, is no different.

Granted it’s a little more tired now that the director’s done his own formula to death, but if you prefer to spend the cold evenings in front of the TV over scaling a mountain, it’s a safe film to choose. A bit of tongue-in-cheek fun with plenty of twists (some might say too many), it’s definitely worth a watch – and damn is it stylish.

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Sure the sharp suits and innate suave of the cast have a lot to do with that, but never underestimate the power of a perfectly paired watch. Amongst monied gangsters of taste of course, that means Rolex, and there are at least two in the film of note.

The voluptuously-bearded Charlie Hunnam can be seen sporting a yellow gold Day-Date, a bit of a clash with a submachine gun but a solid choice nonetheless. Colin Farrrell’s Coach on the other hand opted for a Datejust – if you can spot it under his ubiquitous (and objectively awesome) tracksuit.

The stand-out though comes from a much smaller brand, Pinion. Rather than simply supply a timepiece, Pinion created a unique piece for Hugh Grant’s character in the film. The bronze watch with a black dial is typical Pinion fare, a nice balance between ruggedness and elegance, and both case material and brand name help Grant stand apart from the rest of the gangster crew.

The tracksuits, cashmere and leather jackets are the stars of Ritchie’s stylish caper, but the watches are the perfect finishing touch.