Exploring VA Wines

COOPERAGE

It’s Space and Spice

When I worked in the wine cellars of Sonoma, California a few decades ago, much of my time was spent with the barrels. I was purchasing over 2000 barrels each year, both new and used, for our wines at Buena Vista Winery. I got to know the coopers, the other winemakers, and the wines they aged in those barrels. I learned about the oaks used, the toasting and charring, and more. I don’t buy nearly as many barrels these days but that experience has not left me. With the expansion of the craft beverage industry, many folks have reached out to me about getting some used barrels for their projects which means there are a handful of uses other than wine that I have had a hand in lately.

There are a number of good reasons to re-use wine barrels for other spirits. The barrel will impart the flavor of what was in it before, especially if I do not wash out the barrel. This is the preferred method for these folks, as the wine characteristics left in the barrel are what they are looking for. The wood of the barrel will add its own set of flavor notes, and these can be different based on where the barrel wood was grown, the aging of the wood before being made into a barrel, the toasting process used and the level of that toast, and how many times the barrel has been used. Another aspect of barrel-aging a product is the slow, low-level oxygen that is imparted into the wine through the pores of the wood. The barrel does not leak, but it does breathe. As the barrels sit, the air slowly goes in and a touch of wine evaporates out giving the barrel room a unique and pleasant smell.

The used barrels from our Raspberry Merlot are always in high demand. A few of our neighboring brewers have used them for aging sours, as the acidity and strong fruit character from the raspberries can easily complement this style of beer. Our local distillery has requested them for their program too—I believe he mentioned aging some rum in them.

A local coffee roaster has asked for barrels from me this year. Aging raw coffee beans in a wine barrel was a new idea for me, although I certainly enjoy a good cup of coffee in the morning and appreciate

EXPLORING VA WINES > PAGE 37

Oak barrel usage is a wine making tradition carried on by both home and commercial winemakers. The use of barrels lends quality with a touch of class to any wine cellar. Oak aging imparts flavor and aroma that can not be duplicated by other containers, as well as affecting the color, tannin profile, and texture of the wine.

GRAPEVINE FROM PAGE 35

Albariño (Spain) and Nebbiolo (Italy) were well represented despite relatively small plantings in the state. Petit Manseng and Petit Verdot, lesser-known French varieties winegrowers praise for their suitability in Virginia’s climate, also made strong showings.

Dry and off-dry wines made with hybrid grapes (a crossing of American and Mediterranean vines) also had their bestever showing. Beliveau Farm also won for its 2017 Soul Singer Chambourcin, and both Grace Estate Winery and Old House Vineyards were recognized for their Vidals. While hybrids have traditionally lacked mass market appeal, climate change is forcing vineyards to reevaluate what they should plant and these under-appreciated varieties are amongst those leading the way.

This diversity isn’t limited to grapes; sparkling wine, cider, and mead all set new medal records in the Cup.

Six sparklings took gold. The nationwide popularity of sparkling wines has seen local bubbly sales surge, with a number of Virginia wineries now offering everything from casual pétnats to serious méthode champenoise-style wines.

Ciders and meads were also well represented, earning 23 gold medals between them. These beverages reflect the changing demographics in Virginia’s beverage market as new drinkers shift to lighter offerings. Nearly 1/3rd of new ‘wineries’ in Virginia are actually cideries or meaderies. The Cup’s ciders were reviewed by a separate set of judges.

Many of this year’s gold medal winners are still available at their respective wineries. Wine lovers can download the 2022 Virginia Governor's Cup® Gold Medal Wine Trail app at Virginiawine.Org. The App allows users to plan their trips around wineries that earned gold at the Governor’s Cup, enter raffles for prizes, and view discounts.

Matthew Fitzsimmons is a blogger who has visited nearly every winery in Virginia – most of them twice. Follow his progress at winetrailsandwanderlust.com/.

EXPLORING VA WINES FROM PAGE 36

the craftsmanship involved in producing a quality product. We talked through the procedure and the goals they were hoping to achieve, and tasted a number of brews that express the different styles that define those goals. Toast levels, tannin structures, aging, acids, lingering finishes, creamy textures… it’s almost like making wine!

I have another barrel project that’s going in the other direction. A new restaurant in town is working with me to create a custom wine blend for their opening. They had a bourbon custom-made for them previously, which was aged in a classic bourbon barrel. We put their custom wine into this bourbon barrel to finish.

Over the years, one method I have used to create consistency in our wines is defining what barrels will be used with which wine and for how long. These other crafters are now trying new things, playing off of my craft to create something new. Artistry at its finest!

Is there anything more old-world than aging in barrels? Yes, barrels are expensive and the barrel aging takes time to show results, but the barrel itself goes back centuries without a whole lot of change to the basic structure. With all the new technology in the world these days, it is very grounding to work with products and styles that have been long proven and improved throughout our civilization. And it is exciting to see the new ideas and products being made using that age-old knowledge. New stuff based on old stuff! CANA VINEYARDS & WINERY 2019 Unité Reserve 50 WEST VINEYARDS 2019 Ashby Gap BARBOURSVILLE VINEYARDS 2020 Vermentino Reserve CANA VINEYARDS & WINERY 2019 LeMariage MAGGIE MALICK WINE CAVES 2020 Albariño MICHAEL SHAPS WINEWORKS 2019 Chardonnay POLLAK VINEYARDS 2017 Meritage ROCKBRIDGE VINEYARD 2018 V d'Or SHENANDOAH VINEYARDS 2019 Reserve STINSON VINEYARDS 2017 Meritage TRUMP WINERY 2015 Brut Reserve WISDOM OAK WINERY 2019 Nineteen

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