EXPLORING VA WINES
DOUG FABBIOLI
COOPERAGE It’s Space and Spice
W
hen I worked in the wine cellars of Sonoma, California a few decades ago, much of my time was spent with the barrels. I was purchasing over 2000 barrels each year, both new and used, for our wines at Buena Vista Winery. I got to know the coopers, the other winemakers, and the wines they aged in those barrels. I learned about the oaks used, the toasting and charring, and more. I don’t buy nearly as many barrels these days but that experience has not left me. With the expansion of the craft beverage industry, many folks have reached out to me about getting some used barrels for their projects which means there are a handful of uses other than wine
that I have had a hand in lately. There are a number of good reasons to re-use wine barrels for other spirits. The barrel will impart the flavor of what was in it before, especially if I do not wash out the barrel. This is the preferred method for these folks, as the wine characteristics left in the barrel are what they are looking for. The wood of the barrel will add its own set of flavor notes, and these can be different based on where the barrel wood was grown, the aging of the wood before being made into a barrel, the toasting process used and the level of that toast, and how many times the barrel has been used. Another aspect of barrel-aging a product is the slow, low-level oxygen that is imparted into the wine through the pores of the wood. The barrel does not leak, but it does breathe. As the barrels sit, the
air slowly goes in and a touch of wine evaporates out giving the barrel room a unique and pleasant smell. The used barrels from our Raspberry Merlot are always in high demand. A few of our neighboring brewers have used them for aging sours, as the acidity and strong fruit character from the raspberries can easily complement this style of beer. Our local distillery has requested them for their program too—I believe he mentioned aging some rum in them. A local coffee roaster has asked for barrels from me this year. Aging raw coffee beans in a wine barrel was a new idea for me, although I certainly enjoy a good cup of coffee in the morning and appreciate EXPLORING VA WINES > PAGE 37
Oak barrel usage is a wine making tradition carried on by both home and commercial winemakers. The use of barrels lends quality with a touch of class to any wine cellar. Oak aging imparts flavor and aroma that can not be duplicated by other containers, as well as affecting the color, tannin profile, and texture of the wine. 36
April 2022
Old Town Crier
