BELLOmag #68 Fashion

BELLO SOUS LE SOLEIL

MARCH 2015

A Moment with

JUAN PABLO CASTRO Megapolis

MAHJONG Fashion

EDITOR’S PICKS Sunshine of

YOUR LOVE

Robin

LORD TAYLOR

DAVID HART

New Creative Director @ Hickey Freeman We’re All

MAD HERE M.J. Bale

FASHION

SHIRT H&M SWEATER AND PANTS REISS

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Human or Penguin?

WORDS BY DIO ANTHONY PHOTOS BY YONI GOLDBERG

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JEAN JACKET AND PANTS LEVI’S SHIRT H&M

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ROBIN LORD TAYLOR IS SITTING AT HOME IN HIS NEW YORK CITY DIGS ON HIS DAY OFF FROM PLAYING GOTHAM CITY’S UNDYING OSWALD COBBLEPOT WHEN HE CALLS ME UP IN LOS ANGELES FOR A CHAT. THE VOICE OF HIS CHARACTER AND HIS OWN OVERLAP. I’M NOT SURPRISED, AND I FIND MYSELF ITCHING FOR A GLIMPSE OF THE SCHEMING UNDERDOG THROUGH OUR COAST-STRETCHING PHONE LINE.

He doesn’t know what’d he was doing this day last year, but he knows it wouldn’t have been a break day from fighting forces in crime-ridden Gotham City. Taylor plays a young Cobblepot and soon-to-be Penguin, according to the foreshadowing references made on the hit series. Most movie lovers have the most famous Penguin of all - the very creepy version orchestrated by Danny DeVito - engraved into the corners of their minds. Robin Lord Taylor is right there with us. He tells me DeVito’s 1992 performance in Batman Returns is one he’s watched several times, and that above all, there was one aspect of DeVito’s presentation that he really tried to bring into his creation: the fun.

“This character, despite the way he looks, is still charismatic,” says Taylor.

“It’s something that I really wanted to use in my own characterization. At the same time, since it’s the origin story, I still feel like I have a lot of freedom to make the character my own and take it in a new direction no one’s ever seen before.”

Already it seems as if the Iowa native is doing just that. His fresh portrayal of an early Oswald is as amusing and scary as it is off-kilter as he sets up the future life of his character, which 53

is nothing short of what has been expected. Taylor’s is a story of an actor meeting late but great success through a role that was evidently meant for no one else but Robin Lord himself. To think he fabricated this character’s persona without knowing who or what he was actually auditioning for leaves you wondering what the other auditions must’ve looked like.

“They were very secretive about it, and so I didn’t get a script. They wrote a fake scene with fake names,” he admits. “The night before I went in, my agent gave me the tip-off. By that point I had prepared my scene and made all my choices. I said, I’m just going to go in there and do it how I see it.” That he did, and after only reading once, casting directors told him they’d be in touch. The next few days and weeks were a series of standard tinseltown steps. “In the end, it came together pretty organically. It was one of the most high profile things I’d ever auditioned for, yet it was one of the smoothest audition processes I’ve ever had.”

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SHIRT JOHN VARVATOS JACKET H&M

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I wanted to be on any show; I would move anywhere and go anywhere to do it. But the fact that it’s New York, my real home at this point, is something I just can’t see anything else beating.

count. “I wanted to be on any show; I would move anywhere and go anywhere to do it. But the fact that it’s New York, my real home at this point, is something I just can’t see anything else beating.

The energy and people of New York City feed the authenticity of the show.

I don’t think you could do Gotham City justice anywhere else. I love that I can maintain the life that I had and built here, yet still be apart of this project.

It’s brilliant.”

He’s a regular New Yorker and like most, he prides himself on it, but his beginnings were much humbler. Taylor grew up in the very tiny town of Shueyville, Iowa, which boasts a population of fewer than 600 people. Contrary to popular belief, an upbringing in Small Town, USA wasn’t exactly a nightmare for Taylor.

In fact, it wasn’t even close. “There were some small town mentalities and small town attitudes,” he recalls.

“Overall, it was very idyllic. I felt very lucky because I grew up very close to Iowa City, near the University of Iowa, which is a fantastic school. I was near a liberal, open-minded town where the arts were celebrated. However, by the time I graduated high school, I was ready to leave.” Taylor made the move to Illinois to study at the famed Northwestern University before finding his way to the lights of New York City.

Reflecting back on that time, he says 55

he always wanted to live in a big city, but to have grown in the country with the space to explore and let his imagination run wild is an invaluable chance to have had in life.

Spending his current days diving into the psyche of his demented FOX double doesn’t seem like the worst idea; it’s something he relishes in. He shows me first hand how in tune he is with his character as he explains the nature of Oswald Cobblepot and Jim Gordon’s relationship.

“It’s a fascinating dynamic that the two of them have. Oswald really does view Jim Gordon as a friend. Jim saved his life and Oswald will never forget that,” he says. “Penguin doesn’t have friends; he sees people more as tools to get what he wants. But I really do feel like he views Jim with real genuine affection and truly wants to be his friend and ally. He understands that to get by in Gotham City, you have to have a friend on the other side of the fence. It’s particularly interesting, because even though Jim does not want to be friends with Oswald, he’s also starting to realize he needs someone on the other side.

It’s an interesting dance that the two of them are having.” It’s definitely a dance in a potentially multiple-season ball.

But who’s complaining? One guess— Fish Mooney.

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JACKET SAND COPENHAGEN SHIRT AND PANTS JOHN VARVATOS

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SHIRT H&M SWEATER REISS

Photography YONI GOLDBERG www.yonigoldbergstudio.com Styling WARREN ALFIE BAKER www.warrenalfiebaker.com Grooming SONIA LEEÂ for Exclusive Artists Management using Murad

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Sous le Soleil WITH SPRING READY TO POP IN FULL COLOR, WE LOOK TOWARDS COMFORTABLY CHIC PIECES COMPLEMENTED WITH ATHLETIC DETAILS FOR A UNSTUDIED ELEGANCE THAT IS JUST PERFECT FOR THE WARM DAYS AHEAD.

TOP AND SKIRT MISSONI HEELS COYE NOKES

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TOP AND SKIRT LINE AND DOT SHOES JC PLAY

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DRESS MARIMEKKO

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TOP AND PANTS LINE & DOT SHOES NIKE

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DRESS MARIMEKKO SHOES NIKE

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TOP AND SKIRT MISSONI

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Photography MARTIN RUSCH Styled by ALVIN STILLWELL @ Celestine MakeUp LISA STOREY @ The Wall Group Model ACHOK @ Aston DECADENT issue - BELLOmag.com

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TOP MISSONI

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FASHION

A Moment with

JUAN

PABLO CASTRO

BY FABIO FERNANDEZ

BELLO IS LUCKY TO WORK WITH NUMEROUS TALENTED PHOTOGRAPHERS, BUT HERE, WE WANT TO INTRODUCE YOU TO ONE. MEET JUAN PABLO CASTRO. WE RAN INTO JPC AND ASKED HIM A FEW QUESTIONS ABOUT WHAT IT’S LIKE TO BE A PHOTOGRAPHER AND TO ENLIGHTEN THOSE INTERESTED IN THE FIELD. Hi JP! Where do you call home?

Colombia will always be home, but feeling pretty warm in Miami.

What led you to a career in fashion photography? Did you have any formal training or assistance along the path that brought you to this point?

My degree is in industrial design, and after working as a designer, it led me to my passion for fashion photography.

After moving to Miami I became involve in the fashion industry and was fortunate to meet mentors, such as my friend Billy Coleman, [who] have shared their knowledge and experience.

What are your fashion photography techniques?

My techniques vary depending on the situation. I think it’s all about knowing how to capture the surroundings and using your creativity for inspiration.

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What are the major job duties and responsibilities of a fashion photographer?

If one day I call myself a master photographer, I will die as an artist.

Making the clothing look good and showing the designer’s point of view through photography, resulting in an image that combines the elements available to me, like exploring new poses that will make you stop and look at the image. Connecting with people to get the image is a challenge that I really enjoy; I do like challenges.

How has it been trying to handle the stressful working conditions?

How would you rate your technical and digital prowess?

What are some of the latest photography techniques on the market you are currently implementing in your work?

I’m good at creating stories; that’s why editorial is always my favorite thing to do. If you ask me to rate myself...I believe you never stop learning techniques. I realize that there are infinite possibilities with photography, and I am always open to learning new techniques as technology evolves.

I love a challenge, and a big part of this challenge is to handle the stressful conditions. I find [that] in stressful situations, there’s always a point when everything starts coming together in the creative process, and that is the point I call bliss.

I like going from what we call a flashgun or a speed light to studio flash and fashion kits. [I] enjoy working with all equipment [and teams], including digital technology and production assistants, or just my camera and the model.

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think it gives a lot of flavor to the image.

[I also use] a big softbox in the front with a strong light and a couple of lights in the back in case I need to play with it or remove shadows.

With today’s economy, what changes are driving the fashion marketplace, and how have you adjusted?

How do you make your stills interactive and meaningful?

I have a website and use all forms of social media. I like showing pictures of places and things I find interesting, and I’m always looking for inspiration. I keep track of the latest fashion and culture trends and use them as inspiration.

Sometimes the meaning comes from the simplest things.

Could you explain the steps behind developing a shoot for something like an advertisement?

- Consult with the client and listen carefully to understand their ideas.

- Provide my feedback if they are open to collaboration.

- Research models for the best options and send my recommendations to the client for approval.

- Connect with everyone involved in the project and explain the concept.

Is there a photographer whose work has inspired you and your approach to fashion photography?

From my country I found early inspiration in Camo Aguilera, and currently I find inspiration in the works of Hedi Slimane, Richard Avedon, Mario Testino, Bruce Weber, and Steven Meisel.

What would we find in your camera bag for a typical assignment shoot in studio or on location?

My camera, tripods, color filters, laptop, lights, wires, batteries, fashion magazines, speakers, etc...

What is your approach to lighting? Is there a basic or standard setup you tend to start with? What are your most used light modifiers, and could you give us a visual example?

I love to work with natural lighting, and also love to use some colors filters. I

I think fashion has always been a very competitive [and] difficult industry, and that’s why you have to be very resourceful. Clients always want the best product for the least amount of money, and you can always find ways to work within a budget, such as hiring students as interns, searching out public locations for photo-shoots...

There are always opportunities to cut expenses.

What was the biggest obstacle you’ve had to overcome in building a client base?

Clients come by recommendation, so I don’t feel like I have had to overcome obstacles.

If you weren’t in fashion photography, what would you be doing with your time?

Industrial design.

What has been the best advice given to you by another photographer?

Be humble, listen to the client, and stay true to your vision.

What advice would you like to share with photographers starting out?

Listen to your eyes.

- Shoot.

- Show the client the results and see if we got the shot [they wanted].

- Post Production.

- Project delivered.

- Feedback and additional edits, if required.

- Final result.

Do you work with a regular creative team? What roles do they fill?

I do have some people I work with regularly who understand my process and the way I work, such as stylists, makeup artists, photography assistants, digital techs and editors.

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FASHION TOP WHISTLES SKIRT A&O KALASHNIKOVY FUR CAPE SUNDAY UP MARKET BAG GUESS ACCESSORIES AKCENTY HAT LILY GUREEVA

Megapolis Mahjong PHOTOS BY ALEONA SAZONOVA

THIS IS THE STYLISH STORY OF A LONELY BEAUTY IN THE HEART OF A MEGAPOLIS. BRIGHT LIGHTS AND VIBRANT COLORS REFLECT THE MOOD OF A COSMOPOLITAIN CITY. THE PHOTOS COMBINE ASIAN ACCENTS WITH CLASSIC ELEGANCE, REFLECTING CURRENT ECLECTIC TRENDS IN FASHION AND STYLE.

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BLOUSE AND TROUSERS WHISTLES HAT LILY GUREEVA ACCESSORIES AKCENTY

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DRESS KATE’S ACCESSORIES AKCENTY SHOP

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CORSET TOPSHOP LINGERIE INCANTO HAT LILY GUREEVA ACCESSORIES AKCENTY SHOP

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BLOUSE BRIGITTE BARDOT TROUSERS WHISTLES HAT LILY GUREEVA ACCESSORIES TOPSHOP, AKCENTY

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SKIRT A&O KALASHNIKOVY FUR CAPE SUNDAY UP MARKET ACCESSORIES AKCENTY SHOP HAT LILY GUREEVA

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DRESS KATE’S ACCESSORIES AKCENTY SHOP

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CORSET TOPSHOP LINGERIE INCANTO HAT LILY GUREEVA ACCESSORIES AKCENTY SHOP

Photographer ALEONA SAZONOVA • Model ALISA POLTAVSKAYA Makeup and hair NASTYA SEAGULL • stylist YULIA PYNDYCHUK • Interiors nightclub #LOL, Moscow 77

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EDITOR’S PICKS

By KIMMY ERIN KERTES, Fashion Editor BIRDS OF THE SAME FEATHER MAY FLOCK TOGETHER, BUT THIS SPRING, THOSE FEATHERS ARE EXACTLY THE DECADENT TOUCH TO MAKE YOU STAND OUT. HERE ARE SOME OF MY FAVORITE SUBTLE ADDITIONS TO TAKE YOUR SPRING STYLE ON A FLIGHT OF FANCY.

Isabel Marant sandals

Jenny Packham shrug

Valentino Glam Rock Bag

Simone Rocha sweater

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Aurélie Bidermann earrings

Régime des Fleurs Bel Époq Eau De Parfum

Mary Kantrantzou dress

Dolce & Gabbana Heels

DSquared2 Cool Girl jeans

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TOP FLYNN SKYE PANTS MADE FOR PEARL NECKLACE AND BRACELET BUSTOWN MODERN

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ROBE STONE COLD FOX BOTTOMS FOR LOVE & LEMONS RING AK VINTAGE SHOES DOLCE VITA SOCKS TOPSHOP

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BLOUSE BUSTOWN MODERN PANTS MADE FOR PEARL HAT GLADYS TAMEZ MILLINERY GUITAR GIBSON SG

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TOP FOR LOVE AND LEMONS PANTS MADE FOR PEARL JACKET BUSTOWN MODERN NECKLACE AK VINTAGE RINGS DIABOLI KILL SHOES VINTAGE

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JUMPER FLYNN SKYE VEST MADE FOR PEARL NECKLACE AK VINTAGE CHOKER AND EARRINGS DIABOLI KILL

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Photographer JOSH REED • Stylist TAYLOR SHERIDAN Makeup MICHAL COHEN for Laura Mercier Cosmetics • Hair KEVIN HUGHES @HAIRBYKH using Oribe Products Manicurist PILAR LAFARGUE using Loreal Colour Riche in Tangarine Crush • Model ERIN ZAJAC at VISION LA 87

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David Hart

Creative Director @ Hickey Freeman

BY FABIO FERNANDEZ

NEW YORK-BASED DESIGNER DAVID HART RECENTLY ANNOUNCED THAT HE WILL BE TAKING OVER THE REINS AT THE LEGENDARY HOUSE OF HICKEY FREEMAN AS ITS CREATIVE DIRECTOR. HART, WHO DESIGNS HIS OWN NAMED LABEL DAVID HART & CO., WILL CONTINUE THE WORK WITH HIS OWN HOUSE, AS WELL AS SHOWING THIS CURRENT NEW YORK MEN’S DAY (NYMD), WHICH IS WIDELY SUPPORTED BY CADILLAC.

The upcoming collection was manufactured in Europe and debuted in the current NYMD. It includes sweaters, knitwear, outerwear and denim. “It is a huge honor to join Hickey Freeman,” said Hart. “It is an icon in menswear and incredibly exciting for me to add to its rich history. Hickey Freeman stands for masterful craftsmanship and integrity, and I look forward to working with the team at Hickey Freeman Tailored Clothing and Authentic Brands Group in the updating of the Hickey Freeman brand and man.”

He can’t live without...

1. Coffee 2. Great friends 3. Family 4. Art 5. His dog, Gatsby 6. A good book 7. A suit and tie

8. His glasses 9. A good cocktail 10. Love 11. Great music 12. Crab cakes (only from Maryland) 13. His email 14. Instagram 15. Citrus

Hickey Freeman is on a mission to regenerate into a youthful and more tailored look, and we feel they are on the right path with Hart as its new creative head. We were lucky to catch up with the designer during NYMD as he told us fifteen of his favorite things in celebration of a great start to the 2015 year.

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HICKEY HISTORY AND FUN FACTS: The Hickey-Freeman Co. was the most notably distinguished of the once booming men’s clothing industry based in Rochester, New York at the start of the 20th century.

During the 1880s and 1890s, Jeremiah G. Hickey (1866–1960) was a bookkeeper for Wile, Brickner & Wile, then the largest manufacturer of men’s clothing in Rochester. His close friend Jacob L. Freeman (died 1925) was a private contractor of the firm. Together with fellow Wile, Brickner & Wile employees Thomas Mahon and George A. Brayer, they formed Hickey, Freeman, & Mahon Co. in 1899. Since Jeremiah (“Jerry”) Hickey contributed the most capital, and Mahon made no original investment, the name was changed in 1900 to the Hickey-Freeman Co. In 2012, Authentic Brands Group, an intellectual property corporation with a mandate to acquire, manage and build long-term value in prominent consumer brands, purchased Hickey Freeman along with HMX’s other properties (Wikipedia.com).

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We’re All

Mad Here PHOTOS BY TEREN ODDO

CHAIN HARNESS TEMPEST AND SERENITY CORSET DAR SARA PANTS ENDLESS ROSE SHOES CI CI HOT

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DRESS AND BODYSUIT DAR SARA

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CHAIN HARNESS TEMPEST AND SERENITY DRESS CLAIRE PETTIBONE

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CHAIN HARNESS TEMPEST AND SERENITY DRESS CLAIRE PETTIBONE

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NECK PIECE DAR SARA BLOUSE VALUABLE VINTAGE SKIRT YUMI KATSURA

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NECK PIECE DAR SARA BLOUSE VALUABLE VINTAGE SKIRT YUMI KATSURA SHOES AMI CLUBWEAR

Photography TEREN ODDO www.TERENODDO.com Model MEGAN LEE at WILHELMINA Styling KELSEY DOLCE www.dolcestyling.com Makeup SIMON RIHANNA at ONE REPRESENTS Hair ASHLEY LYNN HALL at ONE PREPRESENTS Manicurist PILAR LAFARGUE using CHANEL Photo assistants RAHILL, PETRA, JAKE Shot on location at THE HOLLYWOOD TOWERS 95

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Southern Sartorial Style

BY STEVEN CARVER

from around the world to create looks for the modern man. High-end suits are handmade with a tailor in Iwate Prefecture, Japan. Superfine Merino wool comes from Australia and is processed via a Biella-based Gold Woolmark weaver in Italy. In Florence, two brothers tackle knits in their workshop, while dress shirts are handmade in Naples. It’s the small pieces of provenance that make up the bigger picture of the brand.

Categorizing men’s style by continent is an easy task. The French are known for insouciant chic, Italian tailoring is elegant and sensual, the Brits have Savile Row with a punk edge, while sportswear reigns in the USA. How about Australia? Even with miles of coastline, it’s not all board shorts and Bondhi beach. The look is global in its aesthetic, even if it is geographically distant from the world’s fashion capitals.

Look at M.J. Bale. Headquartered in Sydney with a focus on deconstructed tailoring and layered separates, the brand works with small-town artisans DECADENT issue - BELLOmag.com

Founded by Matt Jensen, the designer’s initial love of men’s fashion was discovered while working in the finance industry in London during the 1990s, designing and manufacturing his local rugby side’s kit in his off-time.

He co-founded men’s clothing brand Herringbone in Australia in 1999, and after nine years - with some consulting done on the side - co-founded M.J. Bale in 2009, which now has over a dozen retail locations across the continent.

well-dressed gentlemen who stroll through Neapolitan piazzas, the deconstructed separates (many made of cool, crisp cotton) in muted patterns and checks are meant to be worn casually. It’s hot in the summer, and men don’t want to be stifled by style.

Maybe the best way to describe a warm weather menswear collection is from Jensen himself. “We created a collection [for a man] to wear seamlessly in all global cities, destinations and climates: garments he can dress up for business in the urban centers, then dress down for holiday time.” There’s simplicity in sophistication.

Although known for soft-shouldered suits, color also plays a role in each collection. For spring 2015, visions of blue from navy to indigo splash across the line, with added touches of dusty pinks and neutral beige. Inspired by 96