The Skincare Issue in partnership with LeCerre Skincare

This issue is in partnership with LeCerre Skincare!

With articles on... ‘Whitening’ in Skin Care Asian Skincare Methods A Review of LeCerre Skincare And interviews with...

LeCerre CEO and Founder, Cathy Beaupain Beauty Content Creator, Shannon Bruno

Editor’s Note Dear OM Readers, Whether you’re a 12-step-routine-skincare-lover like me (going to sleep without applying two toners and three serums?

Blasphemy!), or consider skincare to be leaving your skin alone, there’s something in this issue for you. We partnered up with Cathy Beaupain of LaCerre Skincare for this one - and learned so much about the struggles Asian women face in the beauty industry. We also learned that skincare can never truly be organic - you’ll have to read the issue to find out more!

Skincare was the first avenue through which Asian women were able to break into the beauty industry. Brands like Glow Recipe, Laneige, and SK-II became household names. Today, Asian entrepreneurs, models, and celebrities have put their names all over the industry, but we need to keep pushing. This issue is a start. Thank you so much to Cathy Beaupain for helping make this issue possible, and always, the team at OM (special love to our incredible design editor, Jean). We have a great issue for you.

I hope you enjoy it.

Love, Rehana Paul Editor in chief and Founder

Kate Anderson-Song is on the editorial team at Overachiever Magazine. She is a NYC-based writer, artist, and performer, with a background in Cinema Studies & Drama from New York University. You can find Kate on Instagram @k8andersonsong and @thek8pages where she posts her art, and you can find more of her work (and tons of other great stuff) here at Overachiever Magazine!

Interview with the Founder of LeCerre Skincare: Cathy Beaupain Written by Kate Anderson-Song

Introduce yourself!

I am Vietnamese American and came to the States in 1981. Coming from a large family with 10 siblings, my parents were always busy making ends meet to provide for the family and didn’t have much time to sit with each one of us. Therefore, I learned early on to be self-reliant, resourceful, and independent. It is with these habits that have helped me in life and eventually led me to start LeCerre Skincare to solve the skin care needs for people like myself.

Can you explain the origins of LeCerre Skincare? How did you begin the company?

I was one of the lucky ones who didn’t have acne issues growing up. Unfortunately, my luck ran out after my third pregnancy. All the changes in hormones and perhaps just stress of balancing my duties of motherhood and work caught up to me - my skin started having severe acne and melasma. every morning I would wake up to about at least 5 new pimples on my face. Pretty soon, my entire forward and sides of my face and neck had dark blue and purple acne marks. I tried all kinds of clinical and professional products in an effort to treat the acne and reduce the marks - nothing worked for me. I relied upon my background in Biochemistry to research on WHY these established and clinically proven skincare products didn’t work for my skin. After years of research, I realized the answer was in the differences in skin biochemistry in skin with melanin and with this fact, I embarked on formulating products specific for dark skin tones.

What is LeCerre’s philosophy?

LeCerre Skincare’s philosophy is to minimize the complexity of skincare and focus back on healthy skin. We use ingredients that are clinically proven to be good for your skin - by helping your skin rejuvenate and renew. Each product offers multiple benefits that can replace at least 2 to 3 products. For example, the Rapid Brightening Serum and the Intensive Repair Cream are light and clean that they can be used near the eyes as an eye cream.

Your mission mentions your background in biochemistry. What is the science behind LeCerre’s skincare and its focus on skintone?

Skin that has high melanin concentration often suffer from post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and dark marks. This is because dark skin has melanocytes with higher melanin production rates. Melanin is produced by the skin whenever stress is introduced - mechanical, heat, UV - to protect itself. Therefore, dark skin tans quickly and scars easily. It is also due to this that dark skin tones are not good candidates for aggressive treatments such as laser and topical hydroquinone. LeCerre Skincare’s factors this into the formulation by keeping concentrations of active ingredients to a level that has been proven to be effective but mild enough to not aggravate the skin. The Rapid Brightening Serum combines 5 key ingredients that synergistically work well to reduce melanin synthesis: Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) + Dong Quai + Vitamin E + Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane (Turmeric) + Rosa Damascena Flower Oil.

How have you adapted to life during the Covid-19 pandemic? How is life at home? How is running your company changed during this time?

Covid-19 has changed the way we all work and frankly think about what is important in life. Covid-19 has given my family more time together - we now cook, clean and share responsibilities of keeping our home safe and fun. My kids are learning skills that will help them be more independent and with homeschooling, we have flexibility to adjust the content and pace of their curriculum.

As for Covid 19 impact to the company, it has been difficult to be a new brand to grow during this time. The balancing act of being a mom, wife and entrepreneur becomes more difficult during this time because there isn’t a buffer. Work and home life is even more fluid than before.

What would you say is your biggest accomplishment? Personally & work-wise?

My biggest accomplishment is having the relationships that I have with my kids. Although they are still young 8 -11 years old, we are close and have open dialogue. They remain curious and confident with a love for learning. A big inspiration for me professionally is to do work that I can talk with my kids and be a good example for them.

Therefore, at the core of LeCerre Skincare is a mission to make the world a better place through our products as well as our work with donating 1% of sales for planet.

Your company is incredibly open about what goes into your product and why, going so far as to have an “Ingredients Library” listed on your website. What inspired these measures? Why give this information?

I truly believe that educating consumers is the key to helping them achieve their skin goals. Most important is understanding different ingredients and what it does. Armed with this knowledge, consumers will be able to shift through all the products available and I hope they will see the value of LeCerre. For example, to find all the good for skin ingredients at a clinically effective concentration found in the Rapid Brightening Serum, consumers would have to buy three different products: Azelaic acid, Niacinamide, Arbutin, acetyl glycosamine, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin E. Additionally, combining natural ingredients such as Dong Quai, Rose Oil, and Turmeric.

Who inspires you? Do you have any role-models in your life?

My inspiration is my mom. Although she is no longer with us, my memories of her keeps me motivated to always move forward. My mother possessed a quiet strength and the biggest, most generous heart. Professionally, I admire Melinda Gates because of her intellect, compassion, and humility.

What do you think are the biggest issues Asian American women face today?

I have a daughter who is 10 and so I think about this question often. A challenge that Asian American women have is a lack of a support network. I think culturally, we were raised to be independent and resilient. Unfortunately, a by product of this is that we take this too far and interpret being independent and resilient as not needing help so we never got comfortable asking for help and therefore, as a group of women, we didn’t receive the experience of being vulnerable.

What advice would you give to your younger self?

Have patience. I tell myself this everyday. All good things require hard work and time.

Sometimes, it may never come. But developing patience is good for your soul.

What is next for you and for LeCerre Skincare?

This is just the beginning of LeCerre Skincare. Our goal is to introduce LeCerre Skincare to North America, Europe, and Australia.

Product Review: LaCerre Skincare Written by Isabel Moon

Isabel Moon is OM’s secretary. She is Korean American and a Theatre and Performance major at Emerson College. Outside of writing, she knits, crochets, embroiders, bakes, cooks, and wears cardigans like any self-respecting “grandma friend” would.

INSTAGRAM: @isabelsjmoon / @glorifiedcursive This past August, our Overachiever team collaborated with LeCerre Skincare to bring you the OM Skincare Issue. I was lucky enough to review LeCerre’s Rapid Brightening Serum and the Intensive Repair Cream.

The Rapid Brightening Serum fixed up my skin not only by smoothing out problems I had (discoloration and the occasional breakout), but it made my skin stronger. This is likely due to the unique blend of five active ingredients in the serum: turmeric, dong quai, azelaic acid, Niacinamide, Acetyl Glycosamine. My face can handle being under a mask for a whole day, and it helped me prevent my skin from reacting when I moved back to college from dry, hot Los Angeles to humid Boston.

The instructions say to use one pump, which gives just under a pea sized amount of product, and it covers not only my entire face but most of my neck too. The texture is smooth, silky, and makes for easy application (left).

The Intensive Repair Cream worked in tandem with the serum to fix my skin problems and generally improved my skin quality. The formula of this cream is focused on improving skin health by restoring the skin’s moisture barrier and stimulating collagen production through the P2Lipid complex. As a result of this complex, the cream claims to give immediate results while improving skin condition in the long term. First of all, it smells like fresh herbs straight from a backyard garden. It goes on smoothly and feels creamy but light. I use it right before bed, and I wake up with a fresh face ready to start the day. Not only did this product even out my skin tone, but it evened out the surface of my skin. I will say that the one drawback of this product was that it sat on top of my skin and can be quite oily for about 10-15 minutes before it absorbs into your skin (right).

Graceful Inhumanity by Carla M. // IG: @carla.mar_

Inspired by: “O, Gather Me the Rose� by William Ernest Henley Till time is far from reach, lasso beauty, For bliss, will early spring.

Value it is, but abruptly tow, O ne'er neglect fate is blessing.

Becoming ignis fatuus, Beam til the ave dream fulfills, Atrocities be riotous, Raze resistance yet it upfills.

Seldomly I ache for your affinity, Seldomly, my beau and my swain.

Withal hold, not to rise yours truly, Perpetual sleep ever wanes.

Fairness perceived by sight or glare, Become one among muses.

It's Spring by Camryn Smith Oh the possibilities If I could be a buttercup and honey girl Less hard scrapes and more dewy sweetness The kind you like to show your mother or friend Instead I find myself here with wax burns Each tug was like when I was yelled at for trying to be someone.

It's hard to have a face.

In the Mirrors Written by Katrina Lee

When Katrina is not arguing with her brother about women’s rights or trying to fit writing courses into her English degree, she’s thinking up short story ideas in her mush of a brain. On regular Friday nights, she can be found raving about the Before trilogy and books that are purple inside and out.

Instagram: @__written.k https://www.instagram.com/__written.k/ There are pimples on my face; it’s a simple enough statement, one that usually turns untrue in a few days, as the evil red dots subside, leaving in their place a scar. Pimples and ensuing scars, disappearing altogether in time, are nothing to be alarmed about.

What disappeared as I grew up, instead, was my relatively smooth skin devoid of red patches and sporadic spots, because the pimples, calling upon their allies, acnes, declared war on my face, and I lost. Over and over.

D.S.E., the public exam in Hong Kong, was an incessant worm squirming through our minds; by our, I mean higher-formers’ minds—unwilling soldiers fighting an imminent war, desperate to get our hands on a golden ticket to universities. It was in the summer before sixth form, consisting of piles of books, past-papers, and marking schemes, my skin had enough of stress and anxiety, and acne broke out. I prioritized studies over self-care; D.S.E. can do that to you. Worse, everyone, from parents to teachers to your neighbor, perpetuates the notion that the public exam is the ultimate battle, the culmination of our efforts in the past 17 years. The social climate of education is a giant hoax, and we believed that a uni entry ticket was worth more than our mental and physical health. Hong Kong society has little patience or tolerance for the lazy, uninspired and directionless, which pushed me to become goal-oriented; the thing is, along the way I lost sense of who I was fighting for. Every day as I pick up the pen to write more essays and to do more math problems, I was thinking of the consequences—family disgrace, the social stigma of being not academically intelligent, then being tossed away. Most of these things aren’t true, but at the time, they felt like my reality. My body sensed the threat and acnes exploded onto my skins; the pimples that had so bothered me were a finger’s flick, this was an atomic bomb, and I was bombed out of existence.

When I received my results (I’d been admitted into an English program), a voice inside of me whispered an incantation: my acne scars will dissipate. I changed my sleep schedule, became cautious of what I put into my body, cooked my own food when I was home and spent large amounts of money on skincare. Indeed, my skin recovered, but it was never as smooth as it used to be. My family’s reaction piled on further stress.

Picture your father asking your mother, “Why is her face still so bad?”, because you and he never established communication, and thus these queries go to the human bridge of you mother; picture him at the rare family dinner, eyes lingering on your face, enough to make you notice his stares, not enough to make you feel his empathy.

Secondary school friends, too, would look at me with pity mixed with concern in their eyes; their gazes darting then fixed onto a certain spot on my face, laser-sharp beams cutting into the skin I so wished to hide; afterward, I’d chide myself for not looking like what I used to. The silent judgment is quite the hallmark of Asian or Eastern societies, wherein the identification of a problem or a ripple in the normalcy is kept quiet and hidden, instead of out in the open with kindhearted discussion. That was almost worse, my friends pretending they didn’t see my scars, as if fueled by embarrassment and something akin to survivor’s guilt.

On the other hand, attending university presented an opportunity with which I could start anew. I needed a social armor, which sounded appealing but underwhelming since my armor was an acne-scarred battleground. I didn’t want to put on makeup, fearing the foundation would clog the pores, and everything would turn from bad to worse. Relief came as genuine connections were made, about which I felt more than lucky, and my baseless horrors of being shunned because of my skin were but my insecurity cooking up nightmares every night. Though there were, indeed, embarrassing situations, in which some of my acquaintances erupted into fervent discussion about my skin, setting off like a rocket and I sat there, an unbitten popsicle, melting. A friend once pointed out to me with an index finger that my skin got worse, which instigated frustration for I was the one to gaze at this face every single day after I wake, and before I go to sleep—my scars hardly escaped my notice. My agitation, though, was chased away by a desire for social disguise; thus, I chuckled and said, “Uh…yeah, my skin is worse than last month.”

“The silent judgment is quite the hallmark of Asian or Eastern societies, wherein the identification of a problem or a ripple in the normalcy is kept quiet and hidden, instead of out in the open with kindhearted discussion.”

Strangers, too, are inadvertent participants in demolishing my fragile selfworth. Their eyes, normally staying ahead of their course, would stray to my direction and linger, then turn away.

Hongkongers are known to be distant and cold; perhaps I should not take their stares to heart, and swallow the lack of empathy like medicine that will toughen me up. Perhaps I’m too sensitive.

Amidst all this, something inches from behind the curtains, sheepish yet defiant, nervous yet aggressive—my selfhate, egged on by fear and insecurity.

I have been treating myself horribly; I buried my sensibility and my skin—my social armor takes the helm to steer, determining my direction. Each morning, I rush to mirror with heart pounding, to check the red patches or spots, either one of two scenarios would result: they’d act up, become reddish and my day is ruined, or they’d subside, and my cheeks are smoother than normal, only then would I feel a little bit more alive and normal. Yet, things are never, and never will be, normal; I still don’t like myself: my pores are too large, my nose

isn’t pointy enough, my jawbone sticks out, my hair won’t part in the middle.

My self-love is built on conditions, and ones that I can’t ever fulfill.

My sense of self was constructed on founding stones that are chiseled by my own tools of relentless self-rejection. I think that the mirror isn’t showing the truth, because we make those mirrors, we see in them what we already see in ourselves. Thus, when I steal a furtive look into the thin piece of glass, ready to deliver my life sentence like a judge, I see what I expect to see: an acne-scarred, hateful, scared little girl.

I’m hardly the victim in all this, as I too have contributed to the stereotypical image of what a person should look and be like, rejected myself countlessly, and projected my thoughts onto other people. With the ubiquity of reflective surfaces in our lives—social media, novels, movies, and other media, the vernacular we use like “body goalsss,” we become obsessed with a version of ourselves that we suspect we could aspire to, and that is perfected in those media.

People tell us we should care about certain things, or that these things will ultimately make us happy, so we prioritize them over everything else—it’s like D.S.E. all over again.

“I think that the mirror isn’t showing the truth, because we make those mirrors, we see in them what we already see in ourselves.”

Perhaps the only mirror we need is ourselves, into which we need to look, long and hard, to see what we value, what we let control our lives, our pores, our nose, forehead, chin, hair? Then perhaps we will recognize the need to reprioritize, make them our priorities, not society’s or anyone else’s. No amount of people’s support, or lack thereof, should be able to shape the reflection in our mirrors, and if we falter, the best skin products, the toners and serums, and creams, should go on the inside, then we will heal, bit by bit.

From Super Serums to Superpowers Written by Katrina Romero Tran

Katrina Romero Tran is an educator, writer, and aficionado of ridiculous memes. When she’s not surrounded by stacks of middle-school English essays to grade, she enjoys reading, binge-watching YouTube, and eating her way through Asia. She strives to empower and foster a greater sense of understanding, empathy, and clarity in herself and those around her.

Green Tea Serum. Pore Clearing Facial Foam. Volcano Blackout Balm. These coveted creams and lotions are not some secret elixir to save the city, but rather part of a self-care routine that reaffirms a sense of grounding normalcy at the end of each day. When L.A. first went into COVID lockdown with much swirling uncertainty about how the virus spread, I’d rush home and straight to the bathroom to wash my face, hoping that whatever potentially garnered germs could somehow be scrubbed clean with water and facial cleanser.

It’s not something I’ve often stopped to reflect on, but these products slowly became an integral part of my life as I’ve gotten older. My husband J once joked that it was just a matter of time before I would be seduced by the realm of K-Beauty: what started with a foray into random KBS YouTube clips a few years ago eventually unfurled into a love for K-dramas, K-fashion, and now all of my beloved skincare products.

My regiment isn’t simply limited to K-beauty products, either. Over the past few years, makeup and skincare have become my constant companion; they are my warpaint, as I once told a co-worker. They were all part of the gateway to feeling more confident and sure of myself, a 5’2” warrior in a world where my often soft-spoken, introvert voice doesn’t always feel heard in a world of dissenting opinions, “let’s talk about it later’s,” and me just plain not feeling like I know what to say in the moment sometimes (I attribute this to years of being taught to not talk back, which is a story for a different time).

However, I know that once I make myself up for “battle” that I will feel more prepared to speak up, stand up, and feel confident enough to act like the person who I want to be inside.

There is a photo of me as a three-year-old back in the late ’80s wearing a long strand of Mom’s pearls, oversized black heels, and my beloved Snoopy sweatshirt, happily coating bright fuchsia lipstick on and around my lips. Then flash forward to 7th grade, when I would covertly pilfer Mom’s Cover Girl lipsticks and pressed powder to wear at school. Even if I was a few shades darker than my Mom, which made me look like I was wearing a sad, cheap version of oshiroi powder, it still made me feel like the ever-rebellious teen at my Catholic school, smugly bearing my secret “strength” among a collective sea of burgundy plaid skirts and ties—a world where makeup, short skirts, and outlandish hairstyles were banned.

“They were all part of the gateway to feeling more confident and sure of myself, a 5’2” warrior in a world where my often soft-spoken, introvert voice doesn’t always feel heard in a world of dissenting opinions, “let’s talk about it later’s,” and me just plain not feeling like I know what to say in the moment sometimes...”

As time wore on, no one really taught me how to put on makeup or invest in a nightly routine; Mom didn’t really say much of it either, scoffing that I needed to keep things simple by sticking to water, sunscreen, and sleep (but if you think about it, though, these are the basic building blocks of good skincare, so kudos to you, Mom!). I didn’t have older sisters or cousins who I could sit with to expertly apply eyeshadow; Seventeen Magazine was considered too risque and thus taboo for my sheltered eyes, and there was no YouTube yet to speak of, so it was much of what I saw other people around me do, as well as whatever commercials I saw on T.V. Then followed college and the days of watching my roommate Leslie prepare for late-night sorority parties and dates, which resulted in me attempting to emulate her eyeliner technique by lining my ENTIRE eye in black eyeliner (a huge no-no, as I learned later). Years of trial and error led me down the path to the cosmetic aisles of Target and eventually Sephora, where numerous tutorials and consultations introduced me to consumeristic alliances with Urban Decay, Fresh, and Innisfree.

These days, serums and night creams must go on nightly; I try my best (although laziness often sets in) to masque up on a weekly basis. My nighttime ritual is a chance to wash away the shortcomings and failures of the day, and with every squeeze of exfoliant and face wash, I give my face a chance to start anew. I am the co-worker who cannot show up to work without a full face on, and when we had a Zoom webinar a few weeks ago with the intent of putting us in breakout rooms, I promptly left, convinced that I wasn’t “ready” because I was barefaced.

Some may judge this move as superficial or shallow, but for me, makeup provides a sense of mental and emotional power, a chance to put my “best face forward” in a world where first impressions matter all too much. Although these days with COVID and mask-wearing it is a different story, I still “suit up” when Zooming in front of my students, and must, MUST take care of my skin at the end of each day. During a time and especially a year where I don’t feel like I have a lot of control over what’s happening in this world, my self-care routine is my own way of ensuring I fortify my inner powers for whatever 2020 has to throw at me next. Jumanji level 7, anyone?

Different Skin Deserves Different Skincare Written by Tasia Matthews

Combining her industry expertise with her biochemistry background, Cathy created LeCerre, a Los Angeles-based skincare brand born from the science of skin diversity and focused on meeting the needs of a diverse range of consumers, regardless of the complexion of their skin.

Tasia currently works in international security and peacebuilding, with a focus on Middle East, North Africa region. She plans to return to school for a Master’s in global security and governance. She likes reading, playing tennis, and generally being outside.

Instagram: @kanitahlah https:// www. i n s ta g ra m .co m / ka n i ta h l a h As an executive working in the skincare industry, Cathy Beaupain was no stranger to the expansive number of products that exist in the global marketplace and promise to address a wide variety of skin conditions. That being said, she was also no stranger to the experience of being an average consumer of these products and being unable to locate anything that could assist with the treatment of her own specific skincare needs. As a result of pregnancy, Cathy battled hormonal melasma, a pigmentation disorder that causes gray or brown discoloration in the skin, and also suffered from facial scarring developed from adult acne. But each time she went on the search to discover new products that could resolve these issues, she found next to nothing. After spending so long testing out dozens of products that either produced no results or that caused more harm than good, she finally decided that she had had enough.

The majority of dermatological studies referred to for the creation of western skincare are Eurocentric in nature, with most clinical research having been conducted primarily on fair skin types. This means that solutions to skin conditions that disproportionately affect darker skin tones, such as hyperpigmentation, have been essentially ignored by the wider skincare industry. LeCerre rejected this bias by focusing entirely on developing formulations for products that can safely and effectively address these skin conditions for a wide range of skin complexions by utilizing the results of melanin-focused research and through listening to the personal experiences of people of color.

LeCerre’s name, once translated, means “The Individual”. LeCerre Skincare was created under the philosophy that each individual’s skin differs from others. The brand believes strongly that individuals of color deserve to have access to skincare formulated with their particular needs in mind, creating products that account for the effects of certain ingredients and concentrations on a wide range of skin tones and types, to achieve success and reach an ignored market.

“The majority of dermatological studies referred to for the creation of western skincare are Eurocentric in nature... mean[ing] that solutions to skin conditions that disproportionately affect darker skin tones, such as hyperpigmentation, have been essentially ignored by the wider skincare industry.”

In addition to providing products that can care for a multitude of skin concerns, LeCerre is focused on expanding its mission of providing diverse skincare to improve the livelihoods of diverse communities around the world through the reduction of waste and through charity.

Each of LeCerre’s products are developed with the goal of being multi-purpose, so that the waste associated with creating numerous skincare products each for a single purpose is reduced. At the same time, 1% of all sales are donated to organizations that positively impact underserved communities across the globe.

No Babies, No Acnes Written By Deena Umeda

When I was 17, I started using birth control. I wasn’t fucking around, far from that. My virgin ass just wanted those sweet, sweet benefits that came along with taking it. I heard that you could lose a little weight, rid your skin of acne, and drop that period. I tried so many things to cure my acne, I even went to a dermatologist for a few years, but everything they gave me dried out my skin. Even though my acne was gone, the cracks and flakes from the dryness made me just as self-conscious as when I had 100 angry pimples on my face. I eventually stopped going to a dermatologist, it is definitely a great option for many, but it just wasn’t for me, so I just popped every pimple on my face.

I was scared to ask my Japanese immigrant mother about starting it.

I knew there was already a stigma in the US about taking it, but I also knew that Japan is one of the least sex-positive places in the world, contrary to what many may think. When I told my mother that I wanted to get on birth control the first thing she said to me was (obviously translated from Japanese), “I gained weight, I don’t think you should do it.” I was shocked that her first reaction was about weight and not her getting mad at the thought that I might be getting railed by some dumb boy from my high school. But it also made a lot of sense as me being overweight has always been a topic in our household. I know she knew I was self-conscious of it, and I know she also wanted me to become a skinny legend. Side effects vary widely from person to person, and after I had many lengthy conversations with her about it, she finally agreed to let me get it.

I didn’t get the pill, because I’m not like other girls, I’m a forgetful bitch (apparently I had ADHD but I didn’t know until recently). I got the shot, which lasts three months before I got an implant in my arm (both had the same hormones). After being on it for a while, I ended up losing 15 pounds, my period went away, and then finally, the thing I was the most excited for, my semi-clear skin. It didn’t completely clear up because I was eating garbage food, but having 10 pimples was better than what I had before.

One more very important thing that helped me was the emotional stability I got from my antidepressants and birth control (I had started both at the same time). I had a better understanding that changing your skin was not gonna happen overnight. I wasn’t getting frustrated with products that wouldn’t work within a week, and I was able to keep a stable skincare routine. I learned to love myself with the pizza face too.

The hormones are not for everyone, but I know that it’s an option that most teens don’t know about. I know girls who started breaking out when they took it, but for me, it worked. Skincare isn’t just topical, but it has to do with what you’re eating, how much water you’re drinking, your stress levels, your hormone levels, and a million different other things. Skincare is personal, and we all have to find the right balance. I know that the five steps of Korean products and the little plastic stick in my right arm help keep my acne at bay. But while I am embarrassed about the scars and the pimples that still appear on my face, what was so much more important to my journey was learning to love myself. Birth control doesn’t just protect me from babies, but also acne.

Female Gaze “My name is Monika, and I’m a PhD student in the Northeast US that’s studying molecular neurobiology for my thesis research. I’ve been in the Northeast US for my entire life, and adapting my skincare regimen to the changing seasons has been challenging throughout my 20s. I had basically perfect skin in my teens but then developed issues with both acne and eczema as an adult.

I use a Western skincare regimen that works pretty well for me, but it’s only gotten that way through lots of trial and error for me. Although I’m light-skinned, I still have so many issues with hyperpigmentation with any sort of scarring, have had to make up regimens that don’t seem to make any sense on paper with traditional skincare recommendations made in the US cosmetics industry, and also manage the medical component of my dermatological issues that stem from atopic dermatitis.

My skin is still changing now that I’m in my early 30s, but I’ve learned to just accept it for what it is and go with the flow a little more rather than be frustrated that my skin isn’t perfect. Sometimes I wonder what my skin would like if I was born and lived elsewhere in an environment more similar to South Asia, but I’ve learned to adapt and do research to take better care of my skin on my face and body.”

(of color) by Sharon Pasia (@sharon_shannon_karen)

Blessed with my papa’s shade, My skin was sunkissed Before her beams even reached me I was born with a gift A natural colour That inspires these wanna-be POC white girls Into burning themselves to a crisp At your local L.A Tan This is a love letter to my peeps of color To all my friends that have been described as Exotic Tropical And Foreign Where people compare your shade to different cups of coffee Because in reality, they’re thirsty For this Caramel Cocoa Hazel Bronzed Beauty And they’re lowkey begging to take a sip This is for the ones That have people playing the guessing game of where you’re “actually” from Or have experienced the common American Greeting of, “...Do you speak english???”

I’m sending soo much love to those whose shade cannot be erased with Pond’s Obagi Nu Derm Papaya Soap Fair and Lovely Or any other skin bleaching agent your mama gave you for you to feel “beautiful” at the tender age of 12 I see you.

And I’m so proud of you Because embracing your color isn’t easy.

It takes a different kind of strength to finally hear and challenge the toxic whispers, tucked away into your subconscious that started with a cruel game of telephonePassed down from colonizers to thousands of bloodlines

Eventually making its way, from the mouths of your loved ones To you Who knew words like Savage Dirty Ugly Ratchet and Trashy Had the capability to crush a human spirit And brainwash generation after generation Normalizing cultural self hate?

But we out here we’re killin’ itNippin’ the self hate from the bud, Tearing it into shreds, Cutting and unraveling this unnecessary tight rope Of standards you shouldn’t have to balance on in the first place Finally hanging up that stupid-ass phone, breaking a poisonous record that was once on repeat For almost half a millenia And HOLY SHIT I am so proud of you.

For finally basking in the true light, Unapologetically and unafraid.

Planting the seeds and spreading new words of self love for generations to come.

So please, Take up all the space you need.

Bask in this garden that you’ve helped create.

As the sun welcomes you with open arms Because you deserve itYou always have.

And to those still hiding underneath their parasolsI see you too.

And friend, I honestly can’t wait for the moment when you’re ready to finally embrace the sun's glow And show the world your true color.

“Microbiome Skincare” by Mehrish Avza

Jabs and Jams // by @kai.laniii What do you find most attractive about people?

Well, lots of things But what I like More than anything in the world is when they are smooth Smooth like honey Their words roll off The tongue A smooth, deep mellow I like them smooth I wish I could be so smooth So velvety and tender like The sounds I love to hear I’m deep, alright Rigid with canyons that I love to douse in Smeared makeup and boiling hot water I pluck and jab and bleach and sting But no amount of torture and fortune And self-care can bring me The smoothness I long to be Reciprocal of the smoothness I love to hear.

I stopped listening to them The trials and tribulations of this jagged world And I started listening to me, her, and The sounds I love to hear I forget about me I’m as smooth and tender as I want to be

Nancy Nancy Thepmanivong Thepmanivong

“Wonderland” alcohol ink

“Bu acrylic

urst” c & ink

“Waves” acrylic & ink

(L to R): ‘Dewy Face’, ‘Feeling like myself: Tabloid’, ‘No/Yes’ ‘Icing on the Cake’

‘Kept Woman’, (above) ‘Sprinkles’ (below)

Courtney Kim Morgan

courtneykimgrant.com

‘Choosing Skincare’(top), ‘Natural Skincare’(bottom)

Suzie Han

IG // @suji.hanh & @suji.myday

‘Skincare is Selfcare”

Why is There an Asian Obsession with 'Whitening' in Skin Care?

Yasmin is a recent graduate from the University of Leeds, and is currently trying to figure out post-student life one stress at a time. Originally from Hong Kong, she has a deep love for anything related to food or films and is particularly passionate about politics and social issues. She is currently the TV News Editor of the online publication The Indiependent.

Twitter: @yasmin_leonora https://twitter.com/yasmin_leonora

Written By Yasmin

I first became aware of the Asian fixation with lighter skin colour when I was a child.

My mother is Malaysian-Chinese, and during the yearly visits to our family for Chinese New Year, I began to notice that my mum was a lot darker in skin tone than her sisters (my aunts), as well as my Po Po. When I asked her about it one year after we returned home, she laughed and said she had always embraced her natural skin colour since she was a young girl. My mum especially loved being in the sun, whereas the other women in our family would diligently shade themselves under umbrellas to protect themselves whenever it was a hot, sunny day - which in tropical Malaysia is (unsurprisingly) extremely often.

This desire for ‘fair skin’ is not just limited to my family. According to a WHO survey, almost 40% of women polled in places such as China, Malaysia, the Philippines, and South Korea said they used whitening products regularly. In 2017, Global Industry Analysts valued the skin-whitening industry at US$4.8 billion, and the market is predicted to grow to almost US$9 billion by 2027, with most of this increase originating from Asian markets.

It is a worrying trend, to say the least. But why is there this incessant drive towards being ‘fair/white’?

For many countries, the impact of coloni-

sation and its legacy immediately springs to mind. However, another reason also dominates: across Asia, colourism is a widespread issue. Defined by the Oxford English Dictionary as “prejudice or discrimination against individuals with a dark skin tone, typically among people of the same ethnic or racial group,” colourism results in the creation of biases between people of the same ethnic group. In parts of Asia, there exists a link between the colour of your skin and your socio-economic standing, due to an extremely dated belief that the dark nature of one’s skin tone is related to working outside in labour-intensive, low-paying jobs.

By contrast, those who are lighter-skinned must, therefore, have jobs that do not require them to labour outside, so instead, they must work indoors in more affluent jobs and so must be higher in terms of socio-economic status.

In essence, those who are darker-skinned receive the brunt of discrimination - they are viewed as less favourably in society in terms of economic status, attractiveness, and social class compared to those who are lighter-skinned.

As I said, this view is extremely dated.

Nevertheless, its effects can still be seen across the continent. In East Asian countries, women wear long sleeves and visors and carry umbrellas in the hot summers to shield themselves from the sun. In Central,

West, and South/Southeast Asia, however, the impact is more extreme due to the increasing differences in skin colour across the population. Skin whitening/bleaching products are extremely popular - in countries such as India and Pakistan for example, one of the most prevalent brands of lightening cream is called ‘Fair and Lovely,’ as though you can only be lovely by being fair (Unilever have since renamed their ‘Fair and Lovely’ range this year, although this move in itself has also been criticised by many as merely a performative act).

sion with being fair. Skincare products, such as those from South Korea, are marketed by companies as being ‘whitening’ or ‘brightening’ but do not themselves contain any active bleaching ingredients. Rather, these products are focused completely on skin tone and radiance. Similar to how products in the West are marketed as being ‘anti-aging,’ these brightening products work to reduce dark spots, acne scars, or hyperpigmentation so that the overall effect is more even skin tone and texture. The emphasis is on your skin glowing, not becoming lighter in colour.

The existence of these products not only ensures such biases are reinforced, but they also foster and encourage them to continuously remain in society.

However, the sale and distribution of ‘whitening/brightening’ skincare products in these countries should still be viewed with alarm. Although they don’t contain active bleaching ingredients, these terms play into the stereotype that to be desirable and beautiful is to be light-skinned and fair. These discriminatory views then trickle down into society. Examples in recent years include South Korea’s first half-black model, Han Hyun-Min, recounting the open racism he faced growing up due to his mixed heritage, and a recent article by CNN reported that minorities often face discrimination and racism in Hong Kong due to the colour of their skin, despite the fact that many of them were actually born and raised in the city.

However, it is not just the reinforcement of these old-fashioned beliefs, which is worrying. These bleaching products are extremely dangerous, as the impacts on your health can be catastrophic. Research group Frontiers in Public Health found that whitening products from India contained dangerous chemicals, including mercury, while more than half of the products tested also contained steroids that are extremely harmful for skin. The WHO also released a report in 2019 about the dangers of mercury in skin lightening products, saying that:

“Adverse health effects...include kidney damage: skin rashes, skin discolouration and scarring, reduction in the skin’s resistance to bacterial and fungal infections, anxiety, depression, psychosis, and peripheral neuropathy.”

It is important to note as well that although many of these whitening products are geared towards women, there exists a worrying increase in male interest too. In Thailand, many clinics now offer treatments for men, such as injecting glutathione substances into their skin to accelerate the whitening process.

East Asia is also not exempt from an obses-

Though ‘whitening’ and ‘brightening’ may just be terms used in skincare, they play into the wider overall impact of colourism and prejudice that many darker-skinned Asians still face today. There is evidence of changing notions of beauty standards in the younger generations, such as the rise to fame of Naomi Wang Ju in mainland China, but overall it appears that the Asian continent has a long way to go in eradicating this prejudice of colourism. For my money, banning skin bleaching products seems like a pretty good way to start.

Miss Demure: “ZIT�

Illustrated by Natalie Obedos

Traditional Asian Skincare Methods Written By Mariam Asim

Mariam Asim is a passionate activist and cat lover, navigating through life back in England after living abroad in Qatar for over eight years. Currently attending secondary school, Mariam loves learning new languages and the culture that comes with them. When she’s not juggling her endless pile of homework, she’s scuba diving with her twin sister or doing another fencing class. Mariam is always unapologetic of speaking her mind and continues to spread awareness of issues affecting today’s modern youth and beyond via her Instagram page!

INSTAGRAM: @lilasiiangirl

Throughout all of Asia, maintaining a flawless skincare regime has always been a huge part of our culture. With western products not being designed for our sensitive skin types, it is always important to ensure we are using traditional methods that have been passed down through generations as those tend to work best to keep our skin healthy. Compared to Western beauty products, most Asian brands emphasize the importance of utilising a more natural and herbal skincare routine, which is what keeps our skin staying fresh and youthful-looking for longer!

Whenever people think of East Asian skincare, the most common thing people tend to think of is the ten-step Korean skincare routine. However, this routine has been proven to be unnecessary, expensive, and harmful to the skin as exposing your pores to too many chemicals is known to be dangerous as it strips your skin of its natural oils.

Instead, lesser-known practices using traditional Chinese methods have been used for centuries throughout East Asia and are known to work!

For example, rice water can be used as a mild cleaning agent for your face. The water contains proteins, minerals, and micronutrients that all stimulate cell growth, blood flow, and act as antioxidants that smooth wrinkles ease inflammation and leave the skin with a healthy glow. Rice water can also be used as a hair treatment as it contains proteins that can help strengthen elasticity and reduce surface friction on your hair.

For as long as traditional Chinese medicine and skincare practices have existed, herbology has always played a major role in delivering natural solutions to everyday skincare issues. Anti-inflammatory ingredients such as ginseng and ginger are used greatly throughout all of East Asia. Other products such as argan oil and aloe vera are known to be in-expensive and effective moisturizers with soothing properties for all skin types.

Interestingly, in EastAsian countries,having asuitable dietis centralto maintaining flawless glowing skin.

Anti-inflammatory foods such as red dates, goji berries, and green tea have always been a major part of the traditional Chinese diet before being introduced to the western world as exotic superfoods. Eating these foods daily can have a positive effect on both the skin and your overall well being.

Similarly, skincare via natural methods is largely important in South Asia. Probably the most popular South Asian skincare product is the use of turmeric as a face mask. Originating from the Indian subcontinent, turmeric face masks provide your skin with a radiant, clear, and healthy glow as a result of the natural anti-inflammatory properties it contains. Tumeric can also be taken orally as a tablet, preventing acne hyperpigmentation and skin inflammation.

Furthermore, the Western market also showcases South Asian skincare products through the use of black cumin seed oil, neem oil, lemon, and honey face masks, which have become popularised for their moisturisation properties and naturally sourced toxic-free ingredients which help to reduce hyper skin pigmentation and sunspots!

From my personal experience as a South Asian, my skin is rather sensitive and prone to hyskin pigmentation and sunspots!

From my personal experience as a South Asian, my skin is rather sensitive and prone to hyperpigmentation and sunburns, which many western brands do not take into account when creating their products. I find that natural remedies that use herbs and other anti-inflammatory foods are always best as on a very traditional note; healthy skin starts with a healthy diet!

Interview with Shannon Bruno Written By Charlotte Drummond Shannon Bruno is a 27-year-old, Filipino-American skincare enthusiast & beauty content creator from Seattle, WA. She mostly creates fun and educational skincare content on TikTok, but first got started on YouTube and Instagram. She has immense product knowledge from battling acne and skin concerns for over ten years, and her passion is sharing it with her audience. Her focus now is encouraging others in their journey with acne and providing helpful content to those starting with skincare. Aside from social media, she is also a Registered Nurse currently working as a nursing director where she spends most of her time.

Charlotte Drummond is a part of Overachiever Magazine’s Editorial and Outreach teams. She is an Indian-American student and writer from Los Angeles, California. She is currently attending Emerson College, and studying Writing, Literature and Publishing. At the moment, she is working for multiple on-campus publications as a part of their writing and copyediting teams. In her free time, she loves reading, taking pictures of plants, getting emo over female singer-songwriters, and hanging out with her dog.

INSTAGRAM: @charlotte.drummond

Introduce yourself!

Hi! My name is Shannon Bruno. I am a 27-year-old, Filipino-American, skincare enthusiast & content creator on TikTok, Instagram, and YouTube. I am also a registered nurse, currently working as a nursing director.

You’ve been on YouTube since 2013, making beauty and lifestyle videos. What inspired you to start your channel?

Yes, time flies! YouTube has always been one of my favorite ways to connect with others online. I have actually been on YouTube for longer, but my current channel has been active since 2013. Although I’m not consistently doing YouTube, I’ve always had a passion for watching and making videos, sharing info and products I love, and it helps that I’m comfortable talking in front of a camera. I originally made my YouTube when I was heavily into makeup, but that quickly transitioned into skincare because that was the same time I started getting more acne. It was in 2013 when I made my first skincare-related video, and since then, I can’t shut up about skincare.

How would you describe your personal skincare journey?

Challenging! My skin has always been oily and acne-prone, with hyperpigmentation and scarring being my biggest concerns. As a POC, it is difficult to treat my skin concerns due to genetics, so I’ve learned the importance of having patience with skincare and knowing what ingredients to use and stay away from. I’ve had acne since high school, so over 10 years now. However, in the last year and a half, I’ve become more aware of what my skin really needs and have a more streamlined approach to my skincare routine. I am also more aware of my diet, what foods cause inflammation, and how it can greatly affect my skin depending on what I eat.

What influenced your interest in producing more skincare-based content?

As I mentioned, my acne journey played a big role in that. I was more interested in focusing on skin health rather than makeup, which started to bore me. I also spent a lot more time learning about skincare than any other beauty category and loved it so much that it became an obsession/passion. Ultimately I kept on producing content that I felt more connected to, and I’m so glad I kept at it!

Your personal skincare shop on Instagram (@shannonbrunoshop) donates all of the proceeds to a variety of charities that support Black voices. How did you decide to use your shop to raise awareness, and why do you think it’s essential for social media influencers to use their platforms to shine a light on social justice/human rights issues?

Thank you for recognizing that! As someone with a platform who also receives too much PR for my own good (lol), I felt that opening a BLM charity shop would be the perfect way to give back to a cause that I feel strongly about while also giving back to my followers. From being on social media, I’ve learned first hand the impact you can directly have on someone’s life just by simply sharing what you believe in and doing something about it. After the recent BLM protests all around the country, it really shook me to my core, and I learned so much that I didn’t know before. All lives truly do not matter until black lives matter. It’s not a trend. It’s an ongoing movement that we all must fight against every single day.

We love the videos that you post on Tik Tok! What do you find most fulfilling about the skincare community there, and what can be challenging?

Thank you so much! I truly did not expect TikTok to take off the way it did, but I’ve never felt so comfortable sharing content on an app as much as I do now. I’ve always been more passionate about creating content through video than photos, so it felt natural to me. I’m also super comfortable in front of a camera from doing YT for so long. TikTok is a whole different audience than IG or YT - the skincare community is massive. It also caters to younger people. A huge advantage of that is getting to educate teens and young adults about the importance of taking care of your skin early on. It’s so refreshing to see so many dermatologists and estheticians on the app and sharing their skincare knowledge for free in 15-second videos. What’s better than that for a skincare enthusiast - seriously?!

Do you have any tips/words of wisdom for skincare newbies? And for Asian womxn specifically?

A lot of my content on TikTok is actually targeted toward teens and skincare newbies! A few of the most important things I wish I knew when I started skincare are 1) wear spf religiously, 2) double cleanse, and 3) don’t over-exfoliate! That’s actually a great segway into the second question because recently, I’ve been sharing tips for POC women, specifically those who deal with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation like me.

Treat your skin gently. Skin irritation in POC leads to unwanted hyperpigmentation and can actually worsen acne. I used to exfoliate twice daily (the horror!!!) and was never taught until this last year how bad that can be for POC. I definitely learned the hard way - so don’t do what I did!

As a Filipino-American woman, why do you think it’s important for Asian women to have representation in the beauty community?

That’s a great question. Being a melanated woman, I never thought about how western beauty is largely influenced

by Caucasian skin because it’s just the culture I grew up in being in America. However, I’ve learned in recent years just how

lacking brands are in representation of people of ALL skin tones and cultures that live in America. Asian representation is becoming more and more seen these days, which is awesome, so I hope that continues. It’s so important to have this representation because it shows how much brands care about their consumer. Everyone just wants to be heard and feel included. Inclusion is way overdue in the beauty industry.

Who are some other Asian womxn beauty/skincare content creators you want to shout out?

Here’s some women I love learning from so @susanyara, @vanessalee_rn, @liahyoo, and @whatsonvisface

much!

What do you think are the biggest challenges facing Asian womxn today?

Personally, I feel like there is still a lot of inclusion that needs to happen, not only in American beauty but Asia, too. Most Asians are taught from a young age from our immigrant parents that “light” skin is better, and that if you are born with more melanin, it is looked down upon. I don’t understand this at all. A lot of Asian women feel pressured to look “whiter” because of this belief. It’s so sad, and I’m glad to see these barriers being frowned upon more these days. All skin tones are BEAUTIFUL!

What’s next for you? Any exciting projects?

Still plan to be on TikTok for as long as I can (if the app doesn’t get banned in America lol)! A lot of my current contracts and brand deals are for TikTok, so follow me there for most of my content. I am also a part of TikTok’s Creative Learning Fund, so they help me grow my channel, and fortunately, I get paid to make more educational skincare videos, which is amazing and such a blessing. Excited for whatever is next!

Why is There an Asian Obsession with 'Whitening' in Skin Care?

Yasmin is a recent graduate from the University of Leeds,

Written By Yasmin and is currently trying to figure out post-student life one

stress at a time. Originally from Hong Kong, she has a deep love for anything related to food or films and is particularly passionate about politics and social issues. She is currently the TV News Editor of the online publication The Indiependent.

Twitter: @yasmin_leonora https://twitter.com/yasmin_leonora

I first became aware of the Asian fixation with lighter skin colour when I was a child.

My mother is Malaysian-Chinese, and during the yearly visits to our family for Chinese New Year, I began to notice that my mum was a lot darker in skin tone than her sisters (my aunts), as well as my Po Po. When I asked her about it one year after we returned home, she laughed and said she had always embraced her natural skin colour since she was a young girl. My mum especially loved being in the sun, whereas the other women in our family would diligently shade themselves under umbrellas to protect themselves whenever it was a hot, sunny day - which in tropical Malaysia is (unsurprisingly) extremely often.

This desire for ‘fair skin’ is not just limited to my family. According to a WHO survey, almost 40% of women polled in places such as China, Malaysia, the Philippines, and South Korea said they used whitening products regularly. In 2017, Global Industry Analysts valued the skin-whitening industry at US$4.8 billion, and the market is predicted to grow to almost US$9 billion by 2027, with most of this increase originating from Asian markets.

It is a worrying trend, to say the least. But why is there this incessant drive towards being ‘fair/white’?

For many countries, the impact of coloni-

sation and its legacy immediately springs to mind. However, another reason also dominates: across Asia, colourism is a widespread issue. Defined by the Oxford English Dictionary as “prejudice or discrimination against individuals with a dark skin tone, typically among people of the same ethnic or racial group,” colourism results in the creation of biases between people of the same ethnic group. In parts of Asia, there exists a link between the colour of your skin and your socio-economic standing, due to an extremely dated belief that the dark nature of one’s skin tone is related to working outside in labour-intensive, low-paying jobs.

By contrast, those who are lighter-skinned must, therefore, have jobs that do not require them to labour outside, so instead, they must work indoors in more affluent jobs and so must be higher in terms of socio-economic status.

In essence, those who are darker-skinned receive the brunt of discrimination - they are viewed as less favourably in society in terms of economic status, attractiveness, and social class compared to those who are lighter-skinned.

As I said, this view is extremely dated.

Nevertheless, its effects can still be seen across the continent. In East Asian countries, women wear long sleeves and visors and carry umbrellas in the hot summers to shield themselves from the sun. In Central,

West, and South/Southeast Asia, however, the impact is more extreme due to the increasing differences in skin colour across the population. Skin whitening/bleaching products are extremely popular - in countries such as India and Pakistan for example, one of the most prevalent brands of lightening cream is called ‘Fair and Lovely,’ as though you can only be lovely by being fair (Unilever have since renamed their ‘Fair and Lovely’ range this year, although this move in itself has also been criticised by many as merely a performative act).

sion with being fair. Skincare products, such as those from South Korea, are marketed by companies as being ‘whitening’ or ‘brightening’ but do not themselves contain any active bleaching ingredients. Rather, these products are focused completely on skin tone and radiance. Similar to how products in the West are marketed as being ‘anti-aging,’ these brightening products work to reduce dark spots, acne scars, or hyperpigmentation so that the overall effect is more even skin tone and texture. The emphasis is on your skin glowing, not becoming lighter in colour.

The existence of these products not only ensures such biases are reinforced, but they also foster and encourage them to continuously remain in society.

However, the sale and distribution of ‘whitening/brightening’ skincare products in these countries should still be viewed with alarm. Although they don’t contain active bleaching ingredients, these terms play into the stereotype that to be desirable and beautiful is to be light-skinned and fair. These discriminatory views then trickle down into society. Examples in recent years include South Korea’s first half-black model, Han Hyun-Min, recounting the open racism he faced growing up due to his mixed heritage, and a recent article by CNN reported that minorities often face discrimination and racism in Hong Kong due to the colour of their skin, despite the fact that many of them were actually born and raised in the city.

However, it is not just the reinforcement of these old-fashioned beliefs, which is worrying. These bleaching products are extremely dangerous, as the impacts on your health can be catastrophic. Research group Frontiers in Public Health found that whitening products from India contained dangerous chemicals, including mercury, while more than half of the products tested also contained steroids that are extremely harmful for skin. The WHO also released a report in 2019 about the dangers of mercury in skin lightening products, saying that:

“Adverse health effects...include kidney damage: skin rashes, skin discolouration and scarring, reduction in the skin’s resistance to bacterial and fungal infections, anxiety, depression, psychosis, and peripheral neuropathy.”

It is important to note as well that although many of these whitening products are geared towards women, there exists a worrying increase in male interest too. In Thailand, many clinics now offer treatments for men, such as injecting glutathione substances into their skin to accelerate the whitening process.

East Asia is also not exempt from an obses-

Though ‘whitening’ and ‘brightening’ may just be terms used in skincare, they play into the wider overall impact of colourism and prejudice that many darker-skinned Asians still face today. There is evidence of changing notions of beauty standards in the younger generations, such as the rise to fame of Naomi Wang Ju in mainland China, but overall it appears that the Asian continent has a long way to go in eradicating this prejudice of colourism. For my money, banning skin bleaching products seems like a pretty good way to start.

Skincare: The Star of the

Multi-Billion Dollar Global Beauty Industry Written By Anu Joshi Anu Joshi is an Indian-Canadian entrepreneur based in Toronto. She first started in the real estate business when she was 18 years old, and has since developed a portfolio and entrepreneurial skill set that allows her to excel in a male-dominated industry. Anushree has a degree in political science from York University. She is a classically-trained Kathak dancer, and loves to travel.

Anushree currently lives with her family in Toronto, Canada.

INSTAGRAM: @anujoshirealty

Is it just me, or in the past few years, has the beauty/skincare industry blown up? I mean, I acknowledge in the older generation (my mom's, let's say) there have been very popular brands offering BB creams, CC creams, XYZ creams that treat wrinkles and have anti-aging effects. Regeneration of skin, 'cancelling out' of laugh lines, and crows-feet-be-gone were the major points of attraction for the more mature crowd for decades. But in the past few years, I've noticed, there's been a lot more attention paid to skincare within the younger generation. In this attention shift, the trend of beauty is also changing, because it means that the "beauty consumer is changing in how they define beauty and demanding an inclusive and authentic image" that is more reflective of their own experience, and that of their family members, neighbours, and friends (1).

With my limited experience and insight, I chalk this up to two reasons: 1) there's more awareness, and 2) there's more hype. I know they sound like the same thing, but they're actually quite different as contributors.

The first is awareness, which I think is a good thing. Young women, especially, are now more inclined to care for their skin than even the young women of 10 years ago. I'm thinking about my parents' friends, many of whom had daughters that were older than me by several years. I remember when we met anytime in their university/young adulthood years (while I was probably still in middle school) at family gatherings, they were barely pulling together their makeup looks - experimenting with winged liner and lip gloss (yes, pink lip gloss is so 2008!). Since then, I've witnessed the trajectory of young women with an increased makeup uptake, if I may call it that, with a focus on skincare standing out in recent years.

In a September 2017 press release, the NPD Group, an industry research company, said that the Canadian beauty industry was up +9.4% to $1.13B YTD (2). Interestingly, they also reported that this uptake, and “the double digit growth in the two years prior,” was fuelled primarily by the skincare segment, as the Korean beauty trend (characterized by luminous, glowing, dewy, natural-looking skin) continued to influence the market significantly, and push sales up significantly of various skincare products like facial moisturizers (+52%), sheet masks (+64%), lip treatment serums (+180%), and face mists (+313%) (3). People evidently want better skin and are willing to pay the big bucks to acquire the products for it, provided that the beauty products they’re being offered are able to cater to their age, skin type, and ethnicity.

The second contributor is the hype around makeup and skincare in social media. Yes, I sound like a 60-year-old auntie, blaming everything ‘these youngsters do’ on social media, but it’s true. “The rise of beauty vloggers sharing YouTube tutorials and posting about their favorite lipstick on Instagram continues to change the way consumers discover new products and engage with brands” (4). The way we shop now has become significantly easier - tap here, swipe up there, and click to use your auto-saved credit card on your browser. The hype of social media beauty blogs, plus the ease of online shopping access, has contributed to the now-$532B worldwide beauty industry (of which the USA is the largest consumer, at 20% share) and by 2025, the industry is expected to grow to over $800B (5). And the hype /ease of access doesn’t stop at just beauty bloggers and Instagram influencers; big brands are actually tapping into this trend as well. Lululemon, famous for luxury athleisure clothing, announced in 2019 that they were also entering the self-care (beauty) market, introducing an in-house line skincare and beauty products like moisturizer and lip balm(6). Around the same period, H&M in the UK reported increasing its offering of beauty-related products by a staggering +94.8% in 2019 compared to 2018 (7). The hype isn’t just with consumers, but definitely present with retailers as well.

In early 2020, research giant Statista reported that skincare single-handedly represents about 39% of the global beauty industry, and hair care represents another 21%, with makeup representing only 19%(8).

This split clearly shows that the focus of current and emerging beauty trends are focused around selfcare, being ‘natural,’ and taking care of our bodies. In a time of promoting positive body image and celebrating the colour (and quality and consistency and everything) of peoples’ varying skin, it’s no doubt that the skincare segment is the one which is the most saleable, the most profitable, and the most attractive for our consumer dollars to go... the skincare segment is truly the star of the beauty industry.

Sources 1, 5 https://www.forbes.com/sites/pamdanziger/2019/09/01/6-trends-shaping-the-future-of-the532b-beauty-business/#6a22e2a2588d 2,3 https://www.npdgroup.ca/wps/portal/npd/ca/news/press-releases/whats-fuelling-the-canadian-beauty-industry/ 4,7 https://www.businessinsider.com/beauty-multibillion-industry-trends-future-2019-7 6 https://fashionista.com/2019/06/lululemon-self-care-beauty-products-launch-review

The Problem with the Race Question Written By Michele Mehri

Michele Mehri is a senior at Roosevelt High School in Seattle, WA. She loves writing, and has been a writer on her school’s newspaper for 3 years now. After high school she hopes to become a science major in order to pursue a career in medicine. Her favorite thing to do is travel, especially to France. But when she’s not thinking about traveling, she enjoys Tiktok, cats, and her baby cousins. https://www.instagram.com/michelemehri We’ve all stumbled upon the same question.

When we fill out an application or take a test, it always seems to follow us. The question being, to select your race from a list of choices.

When I was five years old, my Middle Eastern self never knew how to answer this question. 12 years later, I still struggle with the same question, and that shouldn’t be the case anymore.

For context, surveys and other types of forms will often ask for your race in order to create statistics. This data is used for research, particularly towards civil rights. However, only five races are officially recognized by the U.S government: -White American -Black or African American -Native Americans and Alaska Native -Asian American -Native Hawaiian or other Pacific Islander As a child, this list used to haunt me. I would sit in my chair, staring at this list while my other classmates were already on the second page. It would take a while before I could muster the courage to ask an adult, who would always give me one of two choices. Some adults told me that I need to choose Asian American because that’s where Afghanistan is. However, that didn’t feel right. Others would say I needed to choose white because that’s technically what Middle Easterns are. That really didn’t feel right. I didn’t feel like my White classmates. I also didn’t feel like the few Asian kids who were in my class either. And so I’ve grown to settle for the “Other” category.

But I’m 17 now, and I’m sick and tired of being an Other, of being aquestion mark. IknowwhatI am.

I’m Muslim, I’m brown, I’m Middle Eastern.

I’m not White, or Asian, or even an Other.

There are millions of Americans who identify as Middle Eastern, North African, South Asian, etc. And of those people, a large portion identifies as followers of Islam, which is expected to become the second leading religion in the U.S by 2040. Clearly, we are not going anywhere.

There are two arguments I often hear about this situation. They are the same two arguments adults used to tell me as a child. The first is that Middle Easterns belong in the Asian category. The second is that they belong in the White category. Well, if the fact that there even is an argument about where we belong doesn’t prove that it’s time we have our own category, allow me to break it down further.

Imagine putting an East Asian in a room with a South Asian, and asking them to talk about Asian culture. Do you think they’re going to have a lot to talk about? Exactly. The term “Asian” is too broad to classify an entire group of people. Especially since the world seems to have one vision of what “Asian” means. In all my years, I can’t think of one time I’ve ever told someone I’m Asian. For some reason, most people only think of East Asia when they hear “Asian.” East Asia and South Asia are almost nothing alike. Not only is the culture dramatically different, but so are the experiences. All Asians have likely faced hardships for their ethnicity; however, those hardships look different depending on where exactly you’re from. There’s different stereotypes, prejudice, jokes, etc., that target East Asians and South Asians. For example, ever since the spread of COVID-19, anti-Asian violence has soared. How much of that violence do you

think was targeted towards South Asians?

The answer is none. And the reason for that is because society doesn’t think of South Asians and East Asians as the same group of people. So why does our government?

The next argument I’m going to tackle is the idea that Middle Easterners are White. It deeply saddens me that I even have to explain why this is a completely inappropriate belief.

Middle Easterns are minorities. We constantly face racism and mistreatment, and having to self-identify as White completely disregards all of that. When I was a kid, I was made fun of for the traditional food I brought to school, for the way my mom spoke English, for my traditional clothes. And you know who was on the other hand of that teasing? White kids.

Every time I can remember being mocked for my culture, it has always been by a White person. That is how I know I am not White. I even

knew it when I was a five-year-old girl asking my teacher which box to check. Even then, I knew that “White” was a box I did not belong in.

Making Middle Easterns identify themselves as White is a huge slap in the face to every single one of us. To force us to identify ourselves as a race, who does not face discrimination, is the same as telling us our stories aren’t valid.

Acknowledgment is one of the simplest acts of kindness. It’s hard to feel one with a country that doesn’t acknowledge you. To constantly be put into a category that doesn’t feel right. It makes you feel like an outsider. And after years of answering the same question, checking the same box, you start to get used to it. But that doesn’t mean everyone should get used to it either. I’m willing to start a conversation so that another confused five-year-old never has to feel forgotten again. The real question is, are you?

OM