Overland Journal :: Winter 2012 by Overland Journal

Winter 2012 $12

Altar Desert

Load Tie-down Comparison

North Maine Woods

BMW R100GS PD

Overland Journal Winter 2012

CONTENTS

Winter 2012

Feature s 28

Gran Desierto: Crossing the Altar, Scott Brady

Tie-Down Systems, Graham Jackson

Life off the Radar: North Maine Woods, Damon Bungard

Living Legends: Mark A. Smith, Chris Collard

A Modern Classic: BMW Paris-Dakar R100GS, Ray Hyland

Infinita Highway: Ushuaia to Prudhoe Bay, Leonardo and Daniele Pinheiro

107

Project Vehicle: Tundra CrewMax, James Langan

Dep artments 8

Overland Post

Editor’s Column

News from the Trade

Overland News

Latitude

115

Overland Conservation, Alice Gugelev

116

Overland Medicine: Managing Frostbite, Dr. Jon Solberg

120

Overland Chef: Cream of Mushroom Soup, Zach Berning

123

Classic Kit: The Hi-Lift Jack, Chris Collard

128

Tail Lamp: Iceberg Alley, Sue Mead

On the cover: The late afternoon sun drenches the Altar Desert as Jack Quinlan prepares for a vehicle recovery. Photo by Sinuhe Xavier This photo: A lone Jeep crosses the remote regions of Southern Utah. Photo by Ray Hyland Back cover: Snowy eyelashes on a 1954 Series I Land Rover. Photo by Ray Hyland.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

We are adventurers. Constantly traveling. Testing and using gear in real-world situations. Gaining experience, which we freely share.

OUR RESUME:

7 continents 132 countries 290 years combined experience and counting...

Experience Matters We only know things when we live them

Winter 2012

Publisher and Chairman Scott Brady President and Director of Design Stephanie Brady Editor-in-Chief Chris Collard Chief Operations Officer Ray Hyland Chief Technology Officer Christian Pelletier Senior Technical Editor Graham Jackson Technical Editors Christophe Noel, James Langan Conservation Editor Alice Gugelev Medical Editor Dr. Jon Solberg Contributing Editors Zach Berning, Damon Bungard, Tom Collins, Andrew Cull, Brian DeArmon, Jack Dykinga, Jeff Foott, Sue Mead, Andrew Moore, Leonardo and Daniele Pinheiro, Lois Pryce, Chris Scott, Matthew Scott, Toby Savage, Tom Sheppard, Gary and Monika Wescott Copy Editors Denise-Christine, Tena Overacker Editorial Intern Åsa Björklund Cartographer David Medeiros Graphic Designer Chazz Layne Senior Photographer Sinuhe Xavier Senior Photographer, North America Ben Edmonson Senior Photographer, South America Jorge Valdés Photographers-at-Large Bruce Dorn, Brian Slobe Director of Business Development Brian McVickers Editor at Large Jeremy Edgar Executive Assistant Kelsey McLaren Fulfillment Bo Rounsavall Contact Overland Journal, 3035 N Tarra Ave, #1, Prescott, AZ 86301 service@overlandjournal.com, editor@overlandjournal.com, advertising@overlandjournal.com Moving? Send address changes to service@overlandjournal.com. Include complete old address as well as new address. Allow two to four weeks for address change to become effective. Overland Journal is a trademark of Overland International Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Overland Journal is a wholly owned subsidiary of Overland International. overlandjournal.com

Our promise to you

No Compromise

We carefully screen all contributors to ensure they are independent and impartial. We never have and never will accept advertorial, and we do not allow advertising to influence our product or destination reviews.

You have our word

OverlandPost

Kevin Newell with his Land Rover Series III.

Old School Tire Tubes I read the article in the latest edition and had some questions and comments. My father, born in 1897, and I traveled around the West a lot back in the day. Now tires had tubes in those days, where they are tubeless today. When I travel now out in Eastern Oregon and Northern Nevada, I still carry tubes for my tubeless [tires], and I carry a “boot” to patch a big hole if one appears. Dad and I put “boots” in tires all over the West. Now I know what you’re thinking, ‘it now has a tube.’ Well, looking at your photos I would say it will be a lot easier to break down the tire and patch the tube, than trying to suture, plug, glue and mess with liberal amounts of RTV. So next time before you go out, get some tubes, some “boots,” some glue, and you will be happy with the results.

Happy adventure motoring. John James 2008 Jeep Rubicon, 2007 BWM R12GSA, 2000 KLR Overland Journal Winter 2012

Land Rover Kudos Here I am reading my latest edition of the Journal. Our club, the Ottawa Valley Land Rover Club, has an annual gathering on our “birthday.” This event is held near the Lanark Highlands west of the nation’s capital, Ottawa. The exact location is Silver Lake, Ontario. My trusty Land Rover (his name is Stanwood) and I have traveled thousands of miles all over America and Canada. This year was our club’s 29th birthday party and a gathering of the faithful. As the offroad coordinator, I am charged with ensuring that we have appropriate trails for all members, from “green-laning” to hard-core offroading. In this photo [above] I am taking a break from trail clearing on a snowmobile trail we use in summer months. This year we had a very successful event and I would like to thank the Overland Journal team for helping to sponsor one of the oldest Land Rover club events in North America. Kevin Newell 1972 Series III Land Rover TDI

Overland Journal Winter 2012

OverlandPost

Pierre Michaud, Cape York, Australia.

My Son is Hooked Compass Points If you like the outdoors or have a heart for Down Under adventure and exploration, then you need to get this magazine. It is awesome. I revere every issue that I receive. My son is hooked too! Peace through travel and making the world a smaller place. David Myers Toyota FJ40

No Thank You Photo by Mike McCarth

I have a copy of every Overland Journal neatly stored away. But I gave away the last one and I do not expect to renew my subscription. I think it has become an oversized National Geographic coffee table publication with little or no relevance to the “real” world. s “love” Argentine Tango dancer Overland Journal.

Dick Hamilton Vehicle withheld by request

Connect Share Become a fan on Facebook to communicate with us and other readers and get up-to-date information on what we’re up to, the latest trips, and newest gear. Overland Journal Winter 2012

Pierre, here, from Central Queensland, Australia. I’ve been a subscriber since day one and have not missed an article of your great publication; even managed to contribute a 50-word snippet on dual-battery installations back in the day. We’ve had the good fortune of relocating to Australia for work, and are making the most of it to explore this great land. Thought you might enjoy a few stops that Overland Journal has accompanied me [on] thus far. Two more compass points left. Pierre Michaud 2004 HDJ100R Land Cruiser

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Overland Journal Winter 2012

Contributors

Winter 2012

Michele Dallorso

Damon Bungard

Michele is a freelance cartoonist from the School Of Comic of Milan who specializes in drawing Land Rovers and 4WD vehicles. He lives and works in northern Italy between Lake Como and the rocky trails of Emilia-Romagna. Among other things, he loves to sketch, draw, and portray anything mechanical. He drives a Land Rover Defender 90 (a.k.a. “The Cube”) and is slowly rebuilding an ex-military SIIA 109. His passion for overland travel has taken him to England, Germany, Tunisia, and Colorado and Utah in the U.S. Michele is an enthusiast of beer and tea.

Growing up in a military family, Damon was exposed to the world at an early age, always seeking new adventures in the outdoors. Damon’s particular love of water, specifically rivers—whether standing in them with a fly rod or floating down them on a kayak—has taken him from Chile to Alaska in search of the next native fish, a wave to surf, or waterfall to run. Damon works as Product Manager for Jackson Kayak and resides in South Burlington, Vermont with his very understanding wife, Ashley, and mini-dachshund, Tripper.

Leonardo and Daniele Pinheiro

Sue Mead

Caught up in the daily grind of traffic, long commutes, and a mundane professional existence, Brazilian architects Leonardo and Daniele decided that settling for a normal life was not in their cards. Their decision to “See the world and experience the countries of the Americas” was followed by the purchase of a Jeep and a year of planning. After quitting their jobs, they embarked on their first year-long trek: The Infinita Highway, an overland adventure from Ushuaia, Argentina, to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska.

Sue Mead’s career as an auto journalist began as a freelance evaluator for Four Wheeler Magazine in 1988, on the first team that included women. Today, she travels the globe test driving cars and trucks, and writing for dozens of publications including Automobile, Truck Trend and CNNfn. Sue has also authored four books on 4WD sports. Her career has taken her through 69 countries; she was the first American female Driver of Record in the Dakar Rally (2011, where she took 1st Place in the Open Production Class), and is an inductee to the Off Road Motorsports Hall of Fame.

Ray Hyland

James Langan

After a 15-year grind as a senior executive for the world’s top communications companies, and doing extended overland treks on holiday, Ray realized he had the whole work-life-balance-thing backwards. He decided to leave the New York City rat race and focus on his passions: international travel, photography, and unusual vehicles. He describes his role as Chief Operating Officer for Overland Journal as “Challenging, constantly changing, and the most fun I have ever had.”

With a love of wheels since his first day of preschool—where he immediately discovered the tricycle—James Langan pursues his passions with motorcycles, trucks, and on foot. He makes his home on the eastern slopes of the Sierra Nevada, a fantastic starting point for adventure. After 10 years as a journalist and photographer for Power Stroke Registry magazine, and a brief sabbatical from journalism, James is back in front of his keyboard and behind his cameras. With a keen eye for detail, he is a photographer, a writer, a precision driver, and an expert motorcyclist.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

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Journal Entry: From the Editor

Chris Collard

Character

Doing the right thing

not always easy,

is and often comes with a price.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Earlier this year I received a number of emails from readers, all of whom felt the need to comment on my Good Old Boys Journal Entry (Winter 2011). The common message was a heartfelt appreciation of Overland Journal’s quest for transparency in our product reviews and editorials. One letter referenced “the character of the magazine,” and it got me thinking. Our gear review for that issue was on roof racks. I was the lead on the review and went to great effort deliberating on how to create a test environment that would be both objective and subjective. Our goal was to provide you with an honest assessment of a product on which you may spend a significant amount of money. One of the test processes included walking on the racks while lashing down gear. In the process, the flooring crossbars on the unit from Baja Rack, one of our longtime, loyal advertisers, sagged a little and did not spring back. Advertiser or not, the rack bent and I was compelled to share the details. Aside from this factor (it did not compromise the structural integrity of the rack), I really liked the product and gave it our Value Award. Sergio Murillo, owner of Baja Rack, was not happy. He said, “The Value Award to me says ‘cheap’.” I assured him that Overland Journal would never include a product in one of our reviews that was “cheap” in the flimsy kind of way. I recently received a press release from Baja Rack. It pertained to a full redesign of their roof racks. I read the release, then pulled out and reread the aforementioned letters. It got me thinking. Just what is it that defines the character of a magazine or a manufacturer? Webster defines character as this: “One of the attributes or features that make up and distinguish an individual,” and “The complex of mental and ethical traits marking and often individualizing a person, group, or nation.” I know my review of the Baja Rack hurt. But rather than taking the position that we didn’t know what we were talking about, or packing up their toys (ad dollars) and going home, Sergio and his team took their lumps, then went back to the drawing board. They increased the side rail tubing from 20 guage to 18 gauge, longitudinal tubing from 18 guage to 16 gauge, switched to a higher-grade steel (from Ryerson Metals in Los Angeles, California), and began utilizing a higher-quality, salt-spray tested epoxy paint. They also offered to replace any of their older racks that had rusted. Did this come at considerable cost and effort? Certainly. Character, as Webster states, “mental and ethical traits,” is what distinguishes an individual or entity from the masses—from the average. “We want to be known for being the best, not the cheapest,” Sergio said. From my standpoint, and that of Overland Journal, companies that display this type of “character” are the ones we want to do business with, the ones whose products we share with you, our readers, with confidence. Doing the right thing is not always easy, and often comes with a price. Baja Rack gets it. I commend them.

News from the Trade Exploring the newest gear for overlanding By Chris Collard and Matthew Scott

Touratech 38L Zega Pro Top Case $571 If you’ve ever wanted secure storage for your full-face helmet, Touratech’s new 38L Zega Pro might be the answer. This waterproof, dustproof top case is crafted from 1.5 mm aluminum and measures 12.4 x 15.75 x 12 inches (L x W x H). Bolt on, easily replaceable plastic cups protect the corners and bottom, and the single rear-facing lock will accept an integral lock cylinder. Incorporating Touratech’s RAPID TRAP system, the Zega Pro can be removed with a turn of the lock, and snaps back in place with a click. Available in anodized black or silver. (CC) touratech-usa.com, 800-491-2926

Noren Films UTBDR and Butler Map $25 and $15

Grab a coldy, pop in the Noren Films UT Backcountry Discovery Route (UTBDR) DVD, and take a mini tour of Utah’s best unpaved roads. Next, pick up Butler Maps’ tear-resistant plastic UTBDR map and load your gear for an 870-mile ride from Arizona to Idaho. Noren Films and Butler Maps, working with Touratech USA, continue to expand their line of informational videos and maps. Though the film is geared toward dual-sport motorcycles, the UTBDR is suitable for four-wheel drive vehicles as well. (CC) butlermaps.com, 877.379.6053, touratech-usa.com, 800.491.2926

PIAA 570 Driving Lights $539

With Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) rising to the forefront of lighting technology, PIAA threw their hat into the ring with the 570 LED Powersports Driving Lamp. The 570 uses Reflective Facing Technology (RFT), in which rear-facing, 9-watt LEDs reflect off a computer-designed, multi-surface reflector. The result is the need for fewer LEDs and precise control over beam pattern. With a stated 75,000-lumen output, power consumption is just three amps. The lamps feature a polycarbonate and cast-aluminum housing, and a 7-inch polycarbonate lens. Overall dimensions are 7.2 x 4.25 inches (diameter/ depth). (CC) piaapowersports.com, 800-525-7422

Overland Journal Winter 2012

News from the Trade Exploring the newest gear for overlanding

LED Lenser Lighting $60 - $500

With Leatherman as its parent company, LED Lenser would be expected to offer top-notch lighting options…and they do. From the X21, a D-cell torch that could easily replace one of your driving lights (1100 lumens), to the pocket-sized, 200-lumen, USB-rechargeable P5R, the entire lineup exudes the feeling of quality. Durable construction, Rapid Focus beams, adjustable power levels, emergency and SOS settings, and energy-efficient LED bulbs render each of their offerings a viable option for their sector. The surprisingly bright H7 headlamp has become standard issue in my camera bag. (CC) ledlenser.com, 800-650-1245

Master Pull Snatch Block $101

The name Master Pull has long been synonymous with high-quality synthetic winch line and recovery equipment. Specially designed for use with synthetic line, Master Pull’s new snatch block, the SPB30000, is rated at 30,000 pounds and weighs in at a scant 3.7 pounds (55,000-lb and 75,000-lb units available). An oil-impregnated nylon sheave, used in place of a steel pulley wheel, provides a smooth surface for synthetic line. This design also eliminates the need for a grease fitting and ensures extended maintenance-free use. The unit is powder-coated red and will accept up to a ¾-inch shackle. (CC) masterpull.com, 877-797-0202

Goal Zero 12V Coffee Cup $20

IPF 900 Dual-Beam Driving Lights $435

I’m a coffee drinker, but I don’t drink it fast. I picked up a Goal Zero 12V Steamer Beverage (coffee cup) and it has become my regular traveling companion. Out of the pot, my coffee is 170 degrees, 160 after acclimating to the Steamer. A 2-hour road test with an ambient temperature of 75 degrees resulted in 150-degree coffee: a perfect sipping temperature. (CC) goalzero.com, 888-794-6250

If you’re looking to save space on the front of your vehicle, yet need multiple lighting options, a set of IPF’s new 900DB lights might be the answer. The 900DB pairs a powerful 80-watt low beam and 110-watt high beam in a single unit. The 7-inch round powder-coated body houses an H4 dual-filament bulb and a hardened-glass lens, and is controlled by a switch on the plug-and-play wiring harness. Look for a full review on Expedition Portal in coming weeks. (MS) arbusa.com, 866-293-9078 Overland Journal Winter 2012

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Overland News Showcasing expedition travelers and resources from around the globe By Chris Collard

BMW F700GS and F800GS

hen BMW Motorrad expanded the GS family with two new dual-sport offerings in 2007—the F650 GS and F800GS parallel twins—the riding public embraced the newest members of the BMW lineup. Both provided plenty of power, a comfortable ride on long trips, and positive control on uneven surfaces. This year, BMW continues this chapter in the GS success story by updating a number of features and adding several others. Enter the F700GS and F800GS. Beginning with the front wheel, both variants are now fitted with dual 300 mm disk brakes and twin-piston floating calipers. The rear retains the single, 265 mm single-piston configuration. In keeping with the BMW Motorrad principle “Safety 360°,” the latest generation, twochannel ABS—which is lighter, more compact, and with self-adjusting sensors—will be standard equipment for the first time. Unique to this moto segment is the optional Automatic Stability Control (ASC) and Electronic Suspension Adjustment (ESA). ASC controls rear-wheel spin by monitoring differences via the ABS sensors. ESA allows the rider to manually select levels of rear suspension damping: comfort, normal, or sport. As with the ABS system, ASC and ESA can be adjusted with the push of a button. These popular options have been available on other GS models and should be received well.

Revamp of two mid-sized dual-sports.

New color schemes and side panels are in keeping with the bikes’ sporty heritage. The “beak,” a GS hallmark, has been redesigned in both models, and smoke-grey lenses now cover turn indicators. The left and right turn signal controls have been combined into to a single lefthand-mounted unit. Other controls have been repositioned to improve ergonomics. Though the power and torque of the F800GS remain unchanged (85 hp/63 kW at 7,500 rpm, 62.7 lb-ft/83 Nm at 5,750 rpm), the F700GS now provides 75 hp/55 kW at 7,300 rpm—a four-horsepower improvement—and 56.7 lb-ft/77 Nm torque at 5,500 rpm: an eight percent improvement over the previous F650GS twin. The F650’s 41-tooth rear sprocket has been replaced with a slightly shorter, 42-tooth gear, which will provide more responsive acceleration. Overall, though this rider is always apprehensive about additional electronic gizmos, this extensive list of enhancements is continuing evidence that BMW is serious about staying on the leading edge of the dual-sport world. Keep your eye on Overland Journal; we may be taking a closer look—and a long ride.

The newest generation BMWs, the F700GS and F800GS. The new F700GS out on the trail.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Overland News Showcasing expedition travelers and resources from around the globe Photography by Michele Dallorso

Abenteuer and Allrad

Germany pulls out the overlanding stops at Allrad 2012.

he Abenteuer and Allrad show continues to impress the overland world with its annual celebration. It has become a mecca for overland and 4WD enthusiasts, who migrate to Bad Kissingen, Germany, to pay homage to the deities of expedition travel. It is easily the largest event of its type in Europe and likely the world. This year’s festivities hosted 240 exhibitors and attracted 52,000 visitors from more than 30 countries. Walking through the gate was like walking into an “amusement park for overlanders.” Expedition vehicles lined the dozens of “city blocks” between vendor booths, training displays, and product demonstrations. For the history buff, the show was peppered with an array of perfectly restored De-

Overland Journal Winter 2012

fenders, Land Cruisers, Jeeps, Unimogs, and G-Wagons. For the kid in all of us, there was an RC obstacle course and racetrack, replete with scale versions of Unimogs, Toyotas, and Jeeps. If you wanted to get your hands on the real deal, the test track provided turnkey vehicles—everything from massive 6x6 expedition vehicles to pint-sized, side-by-side UTVs. In the spirit of Overland Chef, there was a cooking competition, the winner of which would be a guest host on a popular German TV show. Like Overland Expo, Allrad’s aisles, as well as the spectator parking lot, were a sea of roof top tents, racks, expedition gear, and solar showers. If you are in Germany around June, put the Allrad show on your itinerary. You won’t be sorry. abenteuer-allrad.de

This page: One of the many meticulously restored 40 Series Toyota Land Cruisers at the show. A Jeep J8 four-door patrol vehicle on display near the Jeep test track. Matzker had an array of Land Rovers in overland, race, and civilian trim. Opposite: 1. The Land Rover limousine, built by Off Road Centre, has four doors on each side. 2. The new Bowler EXR: a purebred racing vehicle on tour across Europe. 3. The beautiful RC car test track, complete with miniature Unimogs. 4. RockSolid fold-down table. 5. The roof top tent has become a common addition to serious expedition vehicles. 6. The demonstration track provided test drives with everything from side-by-sides to massive six-wheel-drives.

Overland News Showcasing expedition travelers and resources from around the globe

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Overland News Showcasing expedition travelers and resources from around the globe By Chris Collard, photography by Chris Collard and Ram Truck

2013 Ram 1500

The next generation of full-size pickups.

’m not sure why, but full-sized pickups haven’t received much attention in Overland Journal in past years. Though I’ve never owned one, I’ve long envisioned having a rig that could tow my sailboat, haul a full-size camper, and not protest the burden of 20 60-pound bags of asphalt (I’m often repairing my long, non-county-maintained road). There are several reasons for my absence from the full-size market: the fuel economy of a big-block V8, the entry price points of the diesel variants, and quite honestly, the V6 options have been less than impressive. This fall I spent a day driving the 2013 lineup of Ram 1500 trucks. Though the economy of the V8 versions has greatly improved, I was more interested in the 3.6-liter Pentastar V6 engine and Torqueflite transmission. When Chrysler faced bankruptcy a few years ago, and a full bailout by the good people of America, seismic shockwaves reverberated from chassis production floors to posh corporate suites. Additional and ongoing challenges have been the U.S. Government’s increasingly stringent Corporate Average Fuel Efficiency requirements (CAFE), which as of the year 2025, will be 54 mpg. With Fiat now holding the reins, the direction of the company seems to have been diverted from the Road of Death (think Bolivia). They paid back Uncle Sam six years ahead of schedule, streamlined production, and made dozens of technological improvements to their product lines. A close review of the new Ram Truck lineup revealed Chrysler’s clear commitment to leading the full-size truck sector. Overland Journal Winter 2012

Powertrain and Performance

The Pentastar 3.6-liter V6, which has become the ubiquitous base V6 engine for the majority of Chrysler’s models, generates an unprecedented 305 horsepower and 269 lb-ft torque. After a day of driving Tennessee back roads, including pulling a 3,500-pound boat, I was impressed with the vehicle’s performance. Zero to 60 mph acceleration, as it transitioned through the close-ratio 8-speed, did not leave me feeling that I’d be run over by a semi. Combined with the Torqueflite (8HP45) automatic transmission, the Pentastar-equipped Ram 1500’s EPA fuel efficiency rating tips the scale at 21 mpg city and 25 mpg highway: a Best-in-Class achievement. It’s also rated for regular gas or E85 flex fuel (though performance and economy suffer with the latter). Final drive ratio in low range is 44:1, respectable for an automatic (4.71 first gear, 2.64:1 low range, 3.55:1 ring and pinion). Why is this figure important? Automatic transmissions are designed to slip, which results in smooth starts, acceleration, and shifts. The “slip” creates friction, which results in heat and wear. A lower fi-

Overland News Showcasing expedition travelers and resources from around the globe

nal low-range gear ratio results in less friction, less heat, and less wear on the transmission. On extended technical terrain driving, this is an important feature.

comfy, but personally, I would opt for a super-stripped-down model. Give me payload capacity, a tough drivetrain, and extended range (i.e. fuel economy).

Technology and Economy

Summary

CAFE is pushing auto engineers to do their best work. They have analyzed every system and made dozens of system enhancements. Though each may render a mere fraction of a percentage better economy, the aggregate totals have upped EPA mpg figures significantly. A few of these include a lower front air dam and an active grille shutter (improved aerodynamics), electric power steering (eliminates induced drag on the motor), and a new air suspension system. While the active grille shutter is brilliant (it closes when additional cooling is not needed), the lower front air dam is a moot point for serious overlanders, who will no doubt install a heavy-duty winch-mount bumper. Electric power steering (this will be an industry norm in the future), though equally responsive as hydraulic, has a different feel; Ram claims this alone increases fuel economy by 1.8 percent and yields five additional horsepower at the flywheel. The Active Level air suspension (optional) provides several drivercontrolled settings: Normal, Off-road 1, Off-road 2, and Aero Mode (non driver activated); as well as automatic load leveling. Off-road 2 raises the vehicle two inches, while Aero Mode lowers it by 1.1 inches (automatically activates at 60 mph). This is all fine, but Aero Mode does not have a manual override. At 60 mph (say, on a Baja two-track) you lose 3.1 inches of ground clearance. A manual override is needed here. The load-leveling feature will be handy when toting a camper or towing a trailer. My concerns, as with any vehicle with air suspension, is the option for, or complications with, adding a mild aftermarket lift. The use of high-strength steel and aluminum has resulted in considerable weight savings over previous models. The hydro-formed, fully-boxed frame has dropped 30 pounds; new aluminum hood, 26 pounds; aluminum-block Pentastar and Torqueflite, 76 pounds.

Would the Ram 1500 be a solid choice for hauling your Four Wheel Camper across the Americas or around the world? I was very impressed with my short time behind the wheel: drivability is excellent, performance under load impressive, and fuel efficiency is best in its class. It will run on standard petrol found around the world, or ethanol-based E85. The results look good so far. I’m hoping we can talk Ram Truck out of a V6 Pentastar version for a long-term test. I’d like to see how it takes to an all-dirt trek across Nevada and Utah. Base price for the Pentastar/8-speed model is $24,595. ramtrucks.com

In-cab Ergonomics and Storage

No longer will you reach down for the console-mounted gate shifter (8-speed models). Instead, you’ll spin a rotary dial “shifter” on the dash. Though it felt exceptionally non-intuitive my first time behind the wheel, I’m sure I’d get used to it quickly. Several models offer an 8.4-inch touchscreen for navigation, Uconnect hot-spot WiFi, audio, and HVAC (fortunately, manual HVAC controls remain)—and voiceactivated controls will manage most of these functions. A trailer brake slide-switch allows for adjusting trailer brake bias on the fly—very handy when towing. USB and 12V power points will keep accessories charged, and in-cab storage remains excellent, with two glove boxes and under-seat cubbies in the rear. Another new feature is key-activated remote locking of the tailgate and bed-mounted RamBoxes. While all of these high-tech gizmos enhance the driving experience, most of them give me pause. What happens when I use my snorkel for more than a clothesline support? Yep, power everything is uber-

Clockwise: The new Active Level air suspension features automatic load leveling. Electronic assisted power steering. Active Grille Slats close to reduce wind resistance. Opposite: The Pentastar 3.6-liter V6 and new Torqueflite 8-speed automatic transmission.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Overland News Showcasing expedition travelers and resources from around the globe By Chris Collard

60th Jeepers Jamboree

n a cool morning in late July, I turned my trusty old Toyota Hilux onto Main Street, Georgetown, California. In front of the 19th century Georgetown Hotel and Worton’s Market, a few dozen four-wheel drives sat waiting for their drivers. It was 0530 and on this day we’d be heading “upcountry,” passing sleepy burgs like Camp Verner and Camp Chiquita, Quintet, and Uncle Tom’s Cabin. Somewhere around the 6,300foot elevation line, beneath the spillway of Loon Lake, we’d picked up a bag lunch of home-fried chicken and fixins. In the distance, a long procession of Jeeps crept slowly across the Granite Bowl, progressing with the Slinky-like movement of an inchworm. This was the entry point of the famed Rubicon Trail in the Northern Sierra Nevada, and the Granddaddy of four-wheel drive events: The 60th running of the Jeepers Jamboree was underway. Back in 1952, a small group of Rotarians met at the home of Mark Smith to organize a fundraising event for the struggling economy of the Georgetown Divide. It would need to benefit local community service groups like the Veterans of Foreign Wars (VFW), the American Legion, and the Rotary Club. A plan was developed for an overnight excursion on the Old Rubicon Trail. Rotarian Harold Krabbenhoft suggested the soirée be called the Jeepers Jamboree, and Smith was officially named “Jeepmaster,” a title he would hold for 40 years. Very few entities can withstand the test of time: In this case, six decades. Little did Smith’s posse know it at the time, but that first Jamboree, which hosted 55 Jeeps and 155 guests, would be the catalyst for a Overland Journal Winter 2012

The “Granddaddy” of 4WD treks celebrates 60 years.

new sector in the world’s economy—recreational 4WD trips. Since that inaugural trek, Jeepers Jamboree guides have led more than 35,000 vehicles and 100,000 guests to the 19th-century resort in Rubicon Springs. The next night in main camp, I sat with Mark at the VFW Ice Cream Parlor. He said, “It is hard to realize that 60 years ago we started something like this. I had no idea that I would even be here for a 60th Jeepers Jamboree. It is a great pleasure to be here today, to meet old friends, see [their] faces again.” Today, the Jamboree is still the local VFW and American Legion’s main fundraiser. I’ve traveled through Africa, South America, Europe and Australia. If there is one common question I’ve been asked, it is, “Have you done the Jeepers Jamboree on the Rubicon Trail?” It is on the wish list of most 4WD enthusiasts— right up there with Russia’s Road of Bones, Australia’s Canning Stock Route, and Asia’s Silk Road. The scenery is breathtaking, the camaraderie unmatched. Is it difficult? Of course. Is it worth the effort? Without question. Get details for this bucket list “check off ” at: jeepersjamboree.com, 530-333-4771

These Jeep JK drivers came all the way from Texas. Rubicon Springs and The Rubicon Trail: a history is an excellent source of information (ISBN: 9780-9837203-0-0).

Overland Journal Winter 2012

El Gran Desierto de Altar Crossing the largest sand sea in North America. By Scott Brady Photography by Sinuhe Xavier, Scott Brady, Ho Chung, and John Lee Overland Journal Winter 2012

Photo by Sinuhe Xavier

Overland Journal Winter 2012

The evening glow of the setting sun faded across the western horizon,

its blue hue slowly replaced by the soft light and flicker of the fire we had built in the shadow of a crescent dune. We were completely alone, worlds away from our busy lives north of the border. Not a sound could be heard in this remote, forbidding place, deep in the largest sand sea in North America, yet less than a day’s drive from the Hollywood sign. We had entered the Altar Desert, a stunningly beautiful, yet shockingly inhospitable place. El Gran Desierto de Altar is the only active erg dune system in all of North America, and it is huge: 5,700 square kilometers stretching from Yuma, Arizona all the way to the Gulf of California. The dunes we were crossing are a product of the Colorado River, which during the Pleistocene period gouged the deepest canyon on the continent: the Grand Canyon. Over the millennia, the river’s torrents carved through ancient sandstone and bedrock, sweeping their sediment south into the Gulf of California—enough to form a delta covering hundreds of square miles. A second force of nature, the chubasco (Spanish for the strong winds of the rainy season), transported the sands east, dispersing them at the foot of the Sierra Pinacate. I had tossed the idea of crossing the Altar Desert to a group of friends, all Land Rover owners and perpetually interesting conversationalists. Among us were a world-class cinematic director and photographer, a Land Rover mechanic and Special Forces driving instructor, a chain-smoking Defender 90 owner, a world authority on German hoseclamps, and a knife-wielding Korean BBQ master who speaks five languages. We had assembled an array of the great Land Rover coiled vehicles ranging from a 110 MOD diesel and 2004 G4 Discovery, to a Defender 90 Wagon and V8 Discovery I (lest I forget the Range Rover Classic with a failing Borg-Warner transfer case). We set a date and meeting point—a waypoint at the base of the dunes. The trip was on.

It was my first experience driving across the Altar Desert. Within just a few miles of entering the dune system we were completely isolated—not a single influence of man could be seen. The power of nature was felt deeply by everyone on the team. As dusk yielded to night, we looked across vast starlit dune fields in all directions. In the days to come we would be traveling across ancient particles of sand, transported by water and wind, from Arizona, Utah, and Colorado. Morning could not come soon enough.

Photo by Sinuhe Xavier

With a world-class photographer like Sinuhe Xavier in our presence, our adventure may be better told through the lens, rather than the pen. Follow along with us as we cross El Gran Desierto de Altar.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

With not a sound to be heard or distant light to be seen, camping in the middle of the largest dune system in all of North America certainly gives a sense of remoteness.

We were completely alone.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Photos by Sinuhe Xavier. Opposite: photo by Scott Brady.

32 A group of well-loved and maintained Land Rovers constituted our convoy. We realized early on that we had each of the coil-sprung, solid-axle Land Rovers that were imported to North America. The vehicles had minimal modifications and relatively small tires. At the correct air pressure, it

was impressive how well these Land Rovers performed in the sand.

Jack surveys the challenge ahead. Driving in a straight line through the dunes was not possible, so we followed a set of waypoints I had assembled from surveying Google Earth.

The critical angle of repose is the steepest angle granular material will hold before sliding down. With sand, this angle depends on prevailing winds, granule size, and moisture content.

Some of the leeward dune slopes were impressive and could be dangerous if not approached with care. With the driver

hanging from the seatbelt and providing minimal steering and braking input, slow progress ensured the best result. Overland Journal Winter 2012

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Photos by Sinuhe Xavier and Ho Chung.

Getting stuck was part of the experience,

and we all had our turn (except Greg in the Range Rover Classic). Several vehicles ended up high centered on the crest of a dune, which resulted in a lot of digging and winching. It added to the adventure and gave us an opportunity to test and improve our skills. I wish we had gotten stuck more. Overland Journal Winter 2012

Photos by Ho Chung and Scott Brady. Opposite: photos by Ho Chung and John Lee.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

One of the best things about camping is the camaraderie you share with your fellow travelers.

Here we prepare breakfast and coffee before setting out for another day in this stunning arid landscape.

Sinuhe performing his symphony of light, lens and shutter, chasing the sun’s rays into the evening. The Michelin XZLs were terrible in the sand, but it didn’t really matter—they looked perfect on the Defenders. Though the

all-terrains performed best, the most important factors were proper air pressure and application of power. My Discovery, with a combination of a mild tread

tire, 10 psi, and a high-revving V8, owned the dunes. It has been nearly seven years since we started our 1995 Discovery project, and it still serves us well to this day. Shade in the desert is a precious commodity. Fortunately our travel days were relatively short, allowing the group to

relax and debate the important things in life, like food and cars.

Transitioning to the Sierra Pinacate; the route through the

Maar craters is rugged and beautiful.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Photos by Sinuhe Xavier. Opposite: photos by Ho Chung and John Lee.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

It is an incredible pleasure to travel through the Sierra Pinacate. I am

thankful for the first trip Al and Bob invited me on to this remote and beautiful region of Sonora. The road is not difficult, but does require attention to keep from puncturing a tire. The dunes in this region can be explored on foot, but otherwise, all vehicle travel must remain on existing tracks.

The two Defenders looked at home in the desert and performed to their pedigree. Fortunately, we did not

encounter a single mechanical failure, not even a flat tire. “Survival of the fittest,” a phrase coined by British philosopher Herbert Spencer after studying Darwin’s Theory of Evolution, is perfectly suited for harsh, arid regions like the Gran Desierto de Altar and Sierra Pinacate. Fauna is limited to the hardiest

of species, and thorns or needles protect almost every form of flora.

In some circles, people compete with how big their tires are and how much articulation their suspension has. We’ve learned that a simple, thoughtful vehicle is more than sufficient for remote exploration, but our

competitive spirit flared up around the campfire and our Snow Peak BBQ Box. Cooking is always a pleasure

when camping. Calm weather prompted our group to take its culinary efforts to the extreme. The meals were incredible. Overland Journal Winter 2012

From atop the bonnet of his 110 Defender, Jack looks south into the Maar crater as the setting sun disappears behind the Sierra Pinacate. We had

experienced a wonderful, challenging, and scenic journey through a rarelyvisited landscape. As with most trips, the

last night’s discussion evolved into plans for our next adventure—to points further south.

Resources Getting There: The Altar sand dunes are open for vehicle recreation west of 114° 18’. East of that longitude is the Biosphere Reserve. Two-track trails lead into and out of the dunes; staying on them eliminates any damage to flora. Do some research on Google Earth to determine which of these roads will suit your entry and exit points. We encountered many locals playing on the dunes and all were friendly and helpful. It is critical to note that this area becomes very remote, very fast. Any group entering should be fully self-sufficient, fully prepared, and experienced with sand travel. You will be entering the dunes at your own risk. Trails: Numerous trails in the Sierra Pinacate provide access to the Maar crater sites. Start any visit with a trip to the visitor center at KM 73 on the Sonoyta Highway 8 to Rocky Point. The staff there will have the most current information on which routes are open or can be accessed with special permission. Additional information is available at elpinacate.conanp.gob.mx. Overland Journal Winter 2012

Photo by Sinuhe Xavier.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Lash It Down To test tie-down systems, we throw our Editor’s two-day-old Pelican Cases out of a moving truck. By Graham Jackson Photography by Brian Slobe Overland Journal Winter 2012

“If everything is lashed down and quiet you will drive your wagon like a Rolls-Royce.” – Tom Sheppard These words to pack by were penned by none other than the master himself, Tom Sheppard, for the 2008 Gear issue of Overland Journal. He was writing, in general, about the principles of loading a vehicle for overland travel and espoused the tack taken by air forces around the world in loading cargo planes: the load must become part of the vehicle. The benefits of this method are too many to mention, but for those who need a refresher, consider instead the dangers and annoyances of an unrestrained load during a spirited sprint down a rough (or any other) road: incessant rattling, damage to the gear carried, or the shifting of weight during an unforeseen emergency maneuver. In a worst-case scenario, a rollover accident, the heaviest and sharpest item will invariably become a projectile aimed at your head. Imagined in these terms, it becomes pretty obvious that properly securing the load is wise. Rereading Tom’s excellent piece, Loading and Lashing, would be a good preview for this article.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

So much for the whys. This article will be more concerned with the equipment used to secure a load for overland travel. Apart from purpose-made devices for securing particular pieces of kit (e.g. jerry can holders, GPS mounts, or drawer systems that are built to be part of the vehicle), most people will end up using some combination of lashing points and rope, straps, or bungees. To do the job properly, the load should be arranged and then the lashing points installed in appropriate locations. This makes a rather unchangeable system, but there are some devices on the market that ease this for those whose load requirements change frequently. We concentrated our review on high quality, innovative products. Bungees were not included. Remember the part about making the load part of the vehicle? Holding your engine in with a glorified rubber band is a bodge repair, not a plan.

Testing Procedure The usual inspection for quality and features preceded all our testing. In keeping with Overland Journal’s tradition of devising real-world tests, we decided a crash test would be most appropriate for testing load stays. Our intention was not to destroy everything, but rather to see how each piece of gear would work in a realistic emergency situation. To this end, I fabricated a rack onto which we could mount two Pelican 1600 cases (of Camel Trophy fame) with the various load points bolted down to each side for securing the straps. The cases, at 14 pounds each, were loaded with 40 pounds of steel, making each case 54 pounds for the test. I also mounted a Super Quick Fist in the center of the rack to hold an empty gas cylinder and three 3-inch Quick Fists down the side to hold a Hi-Lift jack handle. Since I was interested in how the stays kept the load on the rack purely under impact rather than any other process (like scraping along the road), a roll cage was integrated into the test rack to protect the load from contacting the ground. The intention was to load the rack, secure the items with our test gear, then toss it out of the back of a truck at 45 mph, thus simulating a crash. For each run, only one strap was used to secure each case between two identical load points. [Editor’s note: a single strap was chosen to emulate the standard load lashing practices of most overlanders.] We were interested in how much force the straps and load points experienced, so some calculations and measurements were in order (hold on, this is pretty simple physics). The equation for average force during an impact is F = Δp/Δt where Δp is the change in momentum during the crash (final momentum minus initial momentum) and Δt is how long the impact took (final time minus initial time). Momentum is calculated from p = mv where m is mass and v is velocity. Momentum at the end of the crash was assumed to be zero (the rack was stopped), so only the initial momentum was used (54 pounds for the case [mass] times 45 mph [velocity]). The duration of impact was timed with a stopwatch to get Δt. While the average force is instructive, the instantaneous maximum force is of more interest, so this was measured with an accelerometer, which I encapsulated in one of the Pelican Case’s foam inserts. The accelerometer recorded acceleration in three axis as a fraction or multiple of the earth’s gravity. Calculated average force on each strap was around 250 N (Newton) or 56.2 lbf (pound-force) for an impact duration of two seconds. Curi-

ously the accelerometer only measured around two G for the impact. I suspect this is low because of the padding inside the case as well as the stretch of the straps. All of that would have served to cushion the impact (I was reluctant to tape the accelerometer to the rack to get a true reading). Forces were well within the working load limit of all the straps tested. Now the caveats: Obviously, each run of the test was not identical, so the force exerted on the straps was not always the same. The accelerometer recorded which direction experienced the maximum force, so this is known. No two accidents are the same and the intention here is to simulate what would happen if your vehicle left the road and came to a very abrupt stop. If the load remains attached to the rack, or at least does not turn into a projectile, then the stays have more or less done their job. To cover all items in the test we had to repeat the procedure five times. We did not test each strap at each lashing point. However, I don’t see this as a problem, as items were evaluated on their own performance. Results are reported in each individual review.

The test rack being loaded. Each case held in by one strap and the rack designed to be dropped on its top side. Pelican case ready for trade in. Opposite: Nick setting up the accelerometer for measuring G-forces. At the desired impact speed of 45 mph, the test rack was dropped from the tailgate of the truck. The rack was designed with diagonal “skids” on each end to avoid cartwheeling upon impact. Overland Journal Winter 2012

Rollercam

$5 - $9

dislike cam straps. They have never worked well for me except when used to tie down motorcycles (and then only due to the extra tension imparted by the bike’s suspension). In general, there is so much friction between the strap and the buckle that they cannot be properly tensioned. So when I first studied the Rollercam straps I was skeptical. It took about two minutes for me to be really impressed. The brass roller alone resolves almost every problem I had with cam straps. It gives the strap a larger radius to travel around, reducing the stress and wear on the fabric, and also allows the cam lock to cinch tighter against the strap. Further, it reduces the friction of the whole mechanism, allowing much higher tension to be put on the strap as a whole. Add to this dual stainless steel springs (most cam straps have one) and roller shafts, a Velcro containment system for when not in use, and the length indicated on each strap (1-foot to 20-foot), and you have a simple, easy, and completely usable system. The 1-inch polypropylene webbing makes a continuous loop, so the straps do not come with hooks on either end. This makes them a little less versatile than other systems and does require longer straps for single runs between lashing points: a small disadvantage. In use, the Rollercam is easy to tension. It’s small, light, and fast, and did exceptionally well in the test. Not only did it hold the Pelican case on the rack, it didn’t allow it to move at all (a ratchet strap on the other Pelican case had allowed the case to cascade across the road completely free from the rack). I suspect the Rollercam isn’t better in all situations, but it competes well enough for me to be really impressed. rollercam.com, 801-990-0110

Pros:

• Easier adjustment than other cam straps • Excellent performance • Length marked on strap • Price

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Cons:

• Only available as continuous loops, so no hook options • Roller may become fouled by dust and grime • Only available with 1-inch strap width

Clockwise from top: The Rollercam comes in 1-foot to 20-foot lengths and can be stored with handy Velcro straps. Neat low-profile attachment when tensioned. The brass roller is the magic behind Rollercam, allowing significantly more tension than a traditional cam buckle and easier threading.

Front Runner Stratchit

$39 (set of two)

ront Runner is well known for overlanding gear, and their entry into the strap market is the Stratchit. Alone among the tested straps, the Stratchit has an elastic section designed to keep tension on the load at all times. The strap webbing is one inch wide and includes a safety sheath over the elastic portion, which is a nice feature should the elastic give way. However, the load will likely escape before the safety sheath steps in. The Stratchit ends terminate in loops that hold removable carabiners, allowing the strap to be used as a loop back on itself or as a single span. Using carabiners also keeps the strap ends attached no matter the slack in the elastic portion. The adjustment mechanism is a plastic ladder lock buckle, and stitch quality is high. Adjustment is easy: just a matter of pulling the loose end of the strap. To release, lift on the tab of the buckle. In the test, the Stratchit kept the case on the rack, but did allow the case to open. I was very surprised that the Pelican case latches tend to pop open when dropped with force upside down. The Stratchit had enough residual stretch to allow all of the latches to free, the case to come open, and some of the contents to be ejected. frontrunneroutfitters.com, 866-840-0321 Clockwise from top: Safety sheath covers the bungee section. Ladder buckle seemed weak on initial examination, but survived the tests fine. Tension is applied by pulling the loose end through the ladder lock buckle and stretching the bungee portion of the strap.

Pros:

• Simple and easy to use • Carabiner buckles are removable, adding versatility • Safety sheath over bungee adds security

Cons:

• Bungee adds too much stretch • Ladder lock buckle is plastic and may not last • Not suitable for heavy loads

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Quickie Tie-Down USA

$18 - $25

he Quickie Tie-Down is unlike any other product in this review. Advertised as the only militarycertified rope tie-down on the market, the Quickie uses solid braid rope rather than flat webbing and is designed to fill a niche between bungee cords and ratchet straps. The rope passes through a nylon ratchet mechanism that is used to tension and hold it. Tension is applied by just pulling the rope through the mechanism, and unlike a ratchet strap, it has no lever to add tension. A small lever is used to release the ratchet. Tensioning and release are both easy. Quickies come in two sizes, for 1/4-inch rope and 3/8-inch rope, and ends terminate in a rubber-coated hook. The working load limit (WLL) is clearly marked on the side of the units (165 lb for the 1/4-inch rope and 551 lb for the 3/8-inch rope). One nice feature is that the rope can be replaced if needed and even shortened or tied to a custom hook or mounting point as the loose end hook is just tied to the rope. In our test, the Quickie allowed its Pelican case to move significantly, but not break free of the rack. Job well done for the Quickie. Made in the USA. quickietiedown.com, 480-834-9055

Clockwise from top: Attachable end hooks allow for the use of any length of rope. Ratchet release made easy by large pull tab. Working load limit and rope direction clearly marked on Quickie mechanism.

Pros:

• Very easy to use • Non-adjusting end allows lots of customization • Longer rope can be used as needed

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Cons:

• Limited tensioning abilities compared to ratchet straps • Mechanism is bulky • Difficult to tension in tight spaces

Black+Gray CamSure

$49

Pros:

• Lock on cam buckle prevents slipping • Safety latches on hooks • Versatility

Cons:

• Difficult to pull strap through buckle • Hard to tension on incompressible load • Suitable mainly for motorcycle tie-down

he Black+Gray CamSure strap caught my eye during a quest for a better cam strap. The mechanism includes a thumbscrew lock to ensure that the strap doesn’t slip. These straps are specifically designed for securing motorcycles, but certainly looked applicable for other loads as well. The 1.5-inch webbing terminates at coated wire hooks. The hooks include safety catches and the adjustment end of the strap has a loop for easy pulling. The cam lock is a traditional design with a single spring, but it adds a locking plate that can be tightened down on the strap once adjustment is complete, preventing the strap from slipping. Because of the extra friction added by the locking plate, I found the CamSure even harder to adjust than a traditional cam strap. Significant force has to be put on the strap to move it through the buckle, though once adjusted and locked, it is immovable. Accessories for these straps include soft ties, for extending the strap reach or for areas not suitable for hooks, and rub covers for protecting the load. Because it is designed for pulling against the tension on motorcycle forks, securing a solid load with CamSure can be difficult. That being said, once tensioned it will not come loose as traditional cam straps can. Black+Gray does not advertise this strap for anything but a motorcycle tie-down. In the crash test, the CamSure did allow the Pelican case to break free from the rack and go on its own course. Without any spring in the load, it was very difficult to tension the strap sufficiently to keep the case in place. The lock did work perfectly and none of the straps slipped through the cam mechanism, though that would be little solace if you were inside a car with a free-flying, 50-pound Pelican case. Made in USA. blackandgray.com, 845-424-4505 Clockwise from top: Safety latches on hooks is a nice feature. Optional Rub Cover can be used to protect cargo. Optional Soft Tie allows strap extension or mounting to location unsuitable for hooks.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

US Cargo Control Ratchet Strap

$9 - $20

othing beats using physics to your advantage, and that’s what a ratchet strap does. Using a lever to tension a strap routed through a slot, coupled with a ratchet to retain that tension, is a system that has become the standard by which everything else is measured. Just about all ratchet straps use a similar mechanism and vary only by size and the quality of build, a place where the US Cargo straps excel. What is also extraordinary is the sheer variety they come in. Options include double stud ends for L-track, flat safety hoods, and wire hooks. They come in 1-inch to 4-inch widths (we tested the 1- and 2-inch versions) and in lengths from 10 feet to the absurdly long 50-foot versions. The ratchets are all treated for corrosion resistance, have Nyloc nuts for safety, and a cylindrical handle on the ratchet for comfort. US Cargo also offers “Over Center” straps. The buckle mechanism on this type of strap uses the lever advantage as well, but it is fixed in the amount of tension that it applies. Once tensioned, the handle locks down and is released with a button. On first use I was very impressed with how much tension the Over Center latch could generate (again, using levers to good effect). The Over Center buckle is lower profile than a ratchet and is finished in black. In the test, I was expecting the ratchet strap to be the gold standard. It was not that simple. While both the ratchet and the Over Center straps did an adequate job of keeping the Pelican Cases attached to the rack, both allowed significant movement of the case—more than I would have expected. uscargocontrol.com, 866-444-9990

Pros:

• High quality and great attention to detail • Many buckles and lashing-point options • Over Center buckle easy to use

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Cons:

• May be too large for smaller vehicles • Over Center buckle can be difficult to thread • Allowed more case movement than expected

Clockwise from top: US Cargo offers dozens of load lashing options.. The Over Center buckle is easy to use and tensions to a pre-set load. High quality ratchet with large handle. Double stud option for securing straps directly to L-track. The flat hook option; if using these make sure the hook will fit in your load rings.

MasterCraft Safety Cam and Ratchet Straps

$15 - $18

asterCraft has two standard offerings that represent the most common strapping options: a cam strap and a ratchet strap. The cam strap is the traditional type, used for years on motorcycles, and already maligned by me in this article. A 1-inch webbing strap terminates in two fully-coated S hooks. The cam is cast with a single return spring and is predictably difficult to tension on an incompressible load. The ratchet strap is also a 1-inch webbing strap with coated wire hooks, but with a standard ratchet tensioner. As with most ratchets, the mechanism can lock open for easy release. MasterCraft’s ratchets have a nice roller on the handle for comfort and an easy-to-operate lock for the handle. Stitching is very high quality on the straps and Nyloc nuts are used for safety. In all ways, the ratchet looks identical to the one used by US Cargo, and I would hazard a guess that they are sourced from the same factory in China. Test results for these two straps were somewhat predictable. The cam strap allowed significant movement of the Pelican case. After the rack came to a stop I was able to easily push the case free. For the ratchet strap, as was the case with the US Cargo strap, the Pelican case stayed attached to the test rack but moved more than I would have expected it to. mastercraftsafety.com, 800-565-4042 Clockwise from top: Construction quality is very high on both cam and ratchet straps; excellent stitching shown here. Traditional cam buckle is hard to tension on incompressible loads. Fully coated hooks.

Pros:

• Quality stitching and webbing • Hooks fully coated • Ratchet strap utilizes high quality parts

Cons:

• Cam buckle is hard to tension on incompressible loads • Cam buckle has a single spring • Cam strap, better suited as moto tie-down

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Load Anchor Points

Expeditionware Transport Loop $9 US Cargo L-Track Single Mount, D-ring, and Pan Fittings $4 to $8

n many cases, beauty comes from simplicity. The Transport Loop from Expeditionware (Expedition Exchange) is a perfect example: a bent piece of stainless steel with a large hole for a hook and a smaller hole for mounting, all in a package a little over an inch square and able to fit in the tightest locations in your vehicle. In the interest of full disclosure, I took some of this information from Jonathan Hanson’s excellent article about the Transport Loop on the Overland Expo website, where he uses one to lift his FJ40. Originally designed to tie down motorcycles for transport, the loops were good enough to be pressed into service for tying down everything from road flares to water tanks. The mounting hole accommodates an M8 bolt, perfect for Land Rover and Land Cruiser owners. The hook hole is on the small side, so make sure that your strapping device will interface properly. It had no problem with the flat hooks on the 1-inch US Cargo ratchet straps, but could not accommodate the larger flat hooks on the 2-inch straps. Admittedly, a 2-inch strap on the Transport Loop would look a little out of scale. After reading Jonathan’s account of lifting his FJ40 with a Transport Loop, I expected our test to be a breeze. I was shocked, however, to note that after one drop the Transport Loops had warped out of shape—the hook holes no longer round. After two drops the circle had become a pear shape. Total distortion from two Transport Loops added about ¼ inch to the length of the attached strap. Not enough to release a good hook, but certainly more than I was expecting. expeditionexchange.com, 310-618-1875

Pros:

• Small and versatile • Great fit and finish • M8 attachment point matches many vehicle cargo tie-downs

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Cons:

• Stretched under test load • Hole can be too small for larger hooks

ew, if any, modern vehicles come with sufficient tiedown points. Those that do will invariably have them in the wrong location for your overlanding needs. This is where additional lashing points come in. US Cargo offers numerous options to go along with their variety of straps. Familiar to most long-time readers of Overland Journal will be their L-track style, single, round mounts that take single-stud L-track points (be sure to see the caveat in the AT Overland Equipment L-track review to the right). The single L-track mounting points are ingenious for those who know how their load will be set. There is no adjustability, but the ease of removing the rings and remounting them is fantastic. The low profile and domed shape of the mounts makes them unobtrusive when not in use. Of a more traditional design are the D-ring points, which have an optional plastic surround to allow luggage to slide over them. Both systems mount with 10 mm bolts. Finally, the recessed pan fittings come in their own tray, which is mounted with four bolts. The ring is spring loaded, which keeps it out of the way when not in use. Due to the sheer size of the pan fitting, we decided not to test it in this review. We did test the L-track single mounts and the D-rings. The single-mount points are very sturdy, performing much like AT Overland’s L-track system. They showed no warping or deformation, and neither did the single stud rings. The D-ring, on the other hand, did not fare so well. The ring itself was fine, but the metal base used to mount it bent up in every test. Total deformation meant that the strap loosened by about half an inch, enough to allow an open hook to come free. uscargocontrol.com, 866-444-9990

Pros:

• L-track points are very strong and low profile • D-ring mounts come with flush mount plastic surround

Cons:

• Not all L-track studs are compatible • D-ring base deformed under impact • Recessed pan takes up significant mounting space

AT Overland Equipment L-Track $8 - $12

f you’ve ever spent time on an airplane you have likely seen L-track used to secure seats to the cabin floor. Because it provides excellent adjustability—allowing a variety of load points (single-stud and double-stud load rings, threaded studs and others) to be moved and rearranged along the rail—it is also used in the cargo hold. The load-point studs fit into circles machined on 1-inch centers in the aluminum rail. The load points can be moved into position on the shoulders between the circles and locked with a spring. Adjustment is simply a matter of lifting the locking spring (or loosening the nut in the case of the threaded stud) and sliding the stud. The double-stud centers the ring on a track circle and shoulders to either side to add strength. Be aware that while L-track is sold by several companies, not all studs fit all tracks. The claw on the AT single-stud ring is tighter and will not fit over the shoulders of the US Cargo single point mounts, but the US Cargo single-stud rings fit the AT rail. The double-stud rings and the threaded studs don’t seem to have this problem, due to their design. In our tests, the L-track system was excellent. There was no distortion of the rings in either the single or double stud versions. We did not test the threaded studs. US Cargo provided Over Center straps with double stud ends, which we interfaced with the AT L-track. The system worked perfectly. Not only is it extremely versatile and adjustable, it is very strong. at-overland.com, 877-661-8097

Pros:

• Versatile, with many different stud options • Extremely adjustable • Quality of construction

Hi-Lift Slide-N-Lock $77 - $125

i-Lift took a cue from L-track and designed their own Slide-N-Lock adjustable load point system. Crafted from 6061-T6 aluminum, the rail accepts a rectangular-base stainless steel lashing stud. A spring-loaded collar on the stud allows it to be adjusted between locking circles machined in the rail on five-inch centers. Rails come in 22-, 68- and 93inch lengths. The advantage of this system over L-track is strength. The drawback is that the studs can only be inserted from the end of the rail and you are limited to the Slide-N-Lock studs (L-track has many stud options). The only load stud Hi-Lift offers is a single-ring unit. Adjustment is easy; lift the spring-loaded lock and slide the stud to the next locking circle. Studs are chrome plated for protection and the spring is protected in a knurled collar. The ring head does not rotate so is always orientated in line with the rail. In our tests, the Slide-N-Lock performed admirably. There was no warping of the slide structure, and the studs showed no stretching from repeated crash tests. hi-lift.com, 800-233-2051

Pros:

• Strength • Comes in lengths appropriate for pick-up beds • Studs are well protected from dirt ingress

Cons:

• Can only adjust on five-inch centers • Only has single ring stud option • Hex or Torx heads would be better than the provided Phillips screws

Cons:

• Not all L-track studs are compatible • Space requirement may be difficult in smaller vehicles

Overland Journal Winter 2012

End of the Road Quick Fist Mounting Kit

$40

Pros: 54

• Excellent for cylindrical items • Easy to tension and release • Various sizes available

Screw Loose?

Cons:

• Screws pulled through rubber under extreme impact • Regular Quick Fist has only a single mounting hole

On first test the center screwhead pulled through the rubber; use washers. On the second test all screwheads pulled through leaving the tank and the Super Quick Fists forlorn on the road.

ashing down items that are irregular in shape (such as shovels, flashlights, and air tanks), can be an issue. The answer might be the Quick Fist Mounting Kit we sourced from Expedition Exchange. Made of transportation-grade rubber and designed to be an easy-to-latch, circular enclosing mechanism, the Quick Fist comes in several sizes for different diameter items. Mounting holes in the base take #10 screws. The mini version, with a working load limit of 25 pounds and suitable for items 5/8 inch to 1 3/8 inch has five mounting holes. The 3-inch version also has a working load limit of 25 pounds. Simply called the Quick Fist (perfect for axes, shovels, large flashlights, etc.) it has a single mounting hole, while the Super Quick Fist (for diameters from 2.5 to 9.5 inches and up to 50 pounds) has three. Closure is made by a pull-tab locking into teeth on one side of the Quick Fist. Tension is imparted from the rubber structure of the Fist and is fully dependent on which tooth is chosen and your strength to pull the tab. We did not test the mini, but concentrated on the original and the Super Quick Fist. Two Quick Fists were used to secure a HiLift jack handle to the rack, and they did a superb job in two consecutive tests. Two Super Quick Fists, each with the required three #10 screws, were used to hold a 12-pound air tank. During the first test one of the center screws pulled through the base of the Super Quick Fist. It was left that way for the second test, during which all five remaining screwheads pulled through the rubber and the air tank became a 12-pound projectile. Lesson: use washers, large ones, when securing Quick Fists. endroad.com, 615-828-2600 Quick Fists are designed to hold irregular shaped items. The tab on the strap interfaces with teeth on the other side to keep tension.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Conclusions

wo products clearly rose to the top in this test. The Ltrack mounting system, from AT Overland, because of its strength and fantastic versatility, and the Rollercam straps that defied my cam strap hate and were the only straps to go headto-head with a ratchet strap and do as well, if not better. After we had completed all of our planned testing, we wanted to fling the rack out of the truck sideways so it would cartwheel. Ostensibly, this was for pictures. However, when you are throwing things out of the back of a moving truck, there’s an inborn urge to up the ante. The two cases were loaded; one was secured with a ratchet strap tensioned as tight as possible, the other secured with a Rollercam, also tensioned as hard as we could. The cartwheel was impressive, but perhaps more impressive was the case retained by the Rollercam while the case with the ratchet strap slipped out and departed on its own flight path. Editor’s Choice goes to the L-track system from AT Overland. The Value award goes to the Rollercam straps. As with all of our gear review tests, we come away with a better understanding of how things work in the real world. Here, the lesson for me was that securing cargo properly requires a system. There isn’t a single end-all-be-all product, but rather a combination of lashing points, secured with the appropriate hardware in an appropriate location, used to secure the load with a thoughtfully selected strap. There is nothing more surprising than the amount of force we can generate in an uncontrolled environment. When dropped onto the dirt at 45 mph, a mere 54 pounds was enough to deform steel, stretch 2,000-pound webbing, and wreak havoc with Pelican cases. Imagine what even a low-speed crash in the average vehicle could do. Make Tom Sheppard proud: tie everything down properly. Editor’s Note: I’ve used Pelican cases on treks all over the world, trusted them with tens of thousands of dollars worth of camera gear, and absolutely love them. However, I’ve never strapped 200+ pounds to one and tossed it out of a truck. I’m impressed that they held together as well as they did. Stay tuned: I’ll be taking my “new” Pelican cases home for future “testing.” Overland Journal Winter 2012

The cartwheel

Play-by-play

Nice form by Graham

And they’re off (quite literally)

Rounding cartwheel #1

Nice air on cartwheel #2

It’s not every day you get to throw things out of the back of a moving truck. Since we were at it, we thought we’d go all freestyle to see what the rack and Pellican Cases could do. (Yes, it’s fun working at Overland Journal. But don’t try this is home. We’re ummm, professionals.)

Skidding, skidding...

Cartwheel #3

Overland Journal Winter 2012

El Mundo Espera

Lati tude

Chris Collard 7° N Overland Journal Winter 2012

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Barry Andrews 63° N Overland Journal Winter 2012

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Chris Collard 18° S Overland Journal Winter 2012

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Chris Collard Ray Hyland 49° N 24° S

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Life off the Radar Dry flies, boxed wine, and Moose on Maine’s Allagash River. By Damon Bungard

Overland Journal Winter 2012

“Did you just slap me with a

salmon...?”

I proceeded to wipe the fish slime from my cheek. “Pick it up and get up there!” I demanded. To Brian’s credit, running up a wet, rocky, stream bank with a fresh Sockeye in hand, just to get closer than we already were to a large brown bear that was quickly closing in on us and our catch, might have been a little much to ask of somebody who had never even seen a wild Alaskan bear. He said he wanted to see one—just maybe not that close. I don’t think he intentionally tripped, throwing the salmon into my face as I knelt with my camera on the side of the trail. But part of me wonders. The photo, and our camp dinner, turned out great, though.

Flash-forward a year. It’s mid-August again. My beard no longer stinks of fish. Trade salmon for brook trout, and bear for moose. I’ve tempted Brian to join me on another river trip, this time in the far Northeast. The high level “plan” was pretty simple: load up the Jeep with camping and fly fishing gear, strap a couple of Jackson Kayak Coosa fishing kayaks up top, and head north from Vermont to explore the North Maine Woods. We’d catch more fish. He shouldn’t need to slap me with any. The North Maine Woods (NMW) should be a top destination on any North American overlander’s to-do list. The region, which borders Quebec and New Brunswick, is a unique conglomerate of over 3.5 million acres in Northwest Maine. Over 3,000 miles of maintained logging roads and thousands more of unmaintained, off-pavement trails, provide access to countless clean, clear, trout streams, including the Allagash Wilderness Waterway, a premier National Wild and Scenic River. The NMW provides the perfect opportunity for a multi-sport overlanding trip, combining kayaking, fly fishing, camping, hiking, and general life off the radar. This is big logging country, with minimal facilities or resources. Wildlife, in the form of moose, loons, eagles, and black bear, is plentiful. People aren’t. Bottom line is this: If you want solitude, there’s plenty to be found. Loading up my 2008 Jeep JK Rubicon with a week’s worth of gear, we headed north, crossing the border into Quebec. Pitching our tent in a public campground north of Quebec City, we found ourselves among throngs of Québécois trailers out for the weekend of “camping.” Our early morning departure for Saint-Pamphile, a small border crossing (from Quebec back to Maine), couldn’t come soon enough. The map indicated this route would offer the quickest transition from pavement to dirt. Overland Journal Winter 2012

Passing acres upon acres of the region’s primary export, stacked timber, we came to a halt at a seemingly abandoned border crossing. All was quiet on this western front. The silence was broken when a border agent walked out from behind the office, two ladies in tow, tucking his shirt into his pants, with a somewhat bedraggled look to his face. He greeted us with a “What are you doing here?” We were wondering the same about him. He informed us that this was a “logging crossing,” not usually staffed by border agents on weekends. (I guess we should have looked into border crossings, and hours of operation, a little more in our “plan.”) After a lengthy chat, followed by a vehicle inspection to ensure that our tires and rig were up to the long gravel roads ahead, we were back in the U.S. and on our way into the NMW. Our initial destination would be the town of Allagash, at the confluence of the Saint John and Allagash rivers; it is also the take-out for a typical float trip on the Allagash Wilderness Waterway. We’d need to cross the Black River, the Saint John River, a number of anonymous streams, and navigate a day’s worth of dusty gravel tracks. It was quickly apparent that the primary logging roads, though gravel, are well maintained and relatively easy to follow in the Maine Gazetteer map book. Bridge crossings, which are typically single lane and constructed of wood, provided tempting views of the rivers and gave us an idea of what to expect on the Allagash. Anxious to wet a fly line and check water temperatures, we stopped at the first bridge over the Black River. Temps were a little warm for trout, reinforcing what we expected—that trout would be more concentrated in cold tributaries than they would in the main river systems. Our theory was confirmed later in the afternoon when we pulled over for a break at West Twin Brook, near where it flowed into the Allagash. Clear and cold, it was full of trout eager to take a dry fly.

Single lane wood bridge over the Black River.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

The North Maine Woods provides the perfect opportunity for a multi-sport overlanding trip, combining kayaking, fly fishing, camping, hiking, and general life off the radar.

Probing a few side trails off of the main track, most of which were more fit for a moose than my Jeep, it was quickly apparent that the trail options were too numerous to count. Moose populations in this region are significant, and a leisurely stroll could quickly put you face-to-face with a 10-foot bull. If we were going to make Allagash this night, those trails would have to wait for another time.

Allagash A key part of our “plan,” one that we had actually done some homework on before heading off on our little adventure, was how to manage the logistics of getting to the put-in and take-out spots with just one vehicle. It’s not easily done when the two are separated by days of river travel. Enter Norm, who runs Pelletier’s Campground in the town of St. Francis, near Allagash. Norm also runs a shuttle service: Leave your vehicle at the take-out in Allagash Village; Norm’s vans bring you and your gear to the put-in. Sitting on the banks of the Saint John River, Pelletier’s is a good place to spend the night prior to getting on the water. Arriving at Pelletier’s and meeting Norm, we proceeded to unload gear from the Rubicon onto a nice, grassy bluff along the river. Up went the tarp and bug walls, down came the kayaks. Laying out our gear in a nice organized fashion, we shifted from road mode into river mode. Brian started to prep dinner in a gazebo and pulled out some cold beers. Anticipation levels were high for both the river journey about to begin and the marinated apple and boar tenderloins (based on an Overland Gourmet recipe) that my wife had pre-packed. It turned out electricity was also in the air. Just before dinner, the skies darkened and proceeded to unleash a fury of wind, lightning, and torrential rain. We spent five minutes frantically throwing all of our gear back into the Jeep in any fashion we could. Battling powerful wind gusts, we secured the tarp, all the while trying (failing) to keep the rain out of our dinner plates. The only casualty was a camera battery, which in the melee was flung into the black hole behind the Rubicon’s dashboard. Soaking wet, we dined on cold boar in the front seats. Reorganizing and prepacking wet gear in the dark would be our destiny this night. Norm arrived at sunrise to pick us up. Kayaks loaded, we headed back into the NMW toward Churchill Dam, the start of the main river portion of the Allagash. We picked up a detailed map of the river from the NMW gatekeeper and paid our projected daily access and camping fees. The Rubicon was 65 miles downriver, safe in the front yard of the oldest resident of Allagash, who proudly protects the ‘nice travelers’ vehicles with her cane. Brook trout and dry fly on West Twin Brook.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Brian and moose locked in a stare down. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Mushroom, onion and garlic stuffed brook trout for dinner. The Allagash Falls, which are near the take-out, required portaging. A bull moose hoofprint in the river gravel dwarfs my boots. River camp along the Allagash.

There’s a certain purity that comes with shoving off the bank and embarking on a river trip.

On the Water

The initial few miles of river downstream from Churchill Dam is considered low-grade whitewater. Since this would be Brian’s first experience in a fishing kayak, we opted to drop our gear downstream so he could get broken in without the added weight, or possible consequence of our gear taking a swim. Aside from Brian’s soggy waders, we breezed through and were back to our gear cache in time for lunch—and the next round of thunderstorms—before finally loading up. We were officially in ‘river mode’ now: nothing left to do but float, fish, and enjoy the sights and sounds of the river. I’m not sure how to best explain it. There’s a certain purity that comes with shoving off the bank and embarking on a river trip. Maybe it’s the committal factor: Water flows downhill and there’s no going back. Maybe it’s the simplicity of carrying everything you need, or passing through the same point in time as every other drop in the river. Maybe it’s the exploration factor, what lies around the next bend, flowing into the unknown. Whatever it is, it keeps me going back for more.

Within a couple of bends of the river we had what would be the first of numerous waterborne encounters with Maine’s famed fourlegged trademark, the moose. It seems as though in Maine, if there’s a puddle of water, there’s a moose standing in it. I often describe the state as more of a large lichen sponge than an actual landmass; hence, there are a lot of puddles and lots of moose. Aside from logging trucks, the primary hazard while driving is moose. Their large, dark bodies blend incredibly well with the landscape. They stand so tall, your headlights shine under them. Collisions with thousand-pound objects don’t end well for anybody, and driving remote regions in Maine at night is nothing to be taken lightly. Brian asked how moose react to kayaks. In general, they don’t. Moose are usually rather placid and seemingly oblivious to their surroundings. Exceptions are bulls in rut, or cows with calves, which are better given their space if you don’t want to risk being charged, or worse. Reputations aside, moose attack and injure more people than bears. They are easy to see coming on the river; it’s the braking that can be a problem. If they’re standing where the river is taking you, it’s Overland Journal Winter 2012

up to you to maneuver around them, or pull into an eddy and wait for them to pass. It wasn’t 15 minutes after hitting the water that we had our first encounter: a cow and her calf making their way across the river in front of us during yet another thunderstorm. Other moose stood by, posing for the camera, munching on river grass, likely wondering what

There’s a common thread that runs between backpacking, overlanding, and multi-day kayaking, or any other self-supported activity. That link is simplicity and self-containment.

those big floating things were as we drifted by. Our first day ended with sunset over spruce, a grassy bench for the tent, a break in the rain, a hot meal, and a fresh box of wine. We enjoyed the company of a large cow moose in the eddy directly below us. River life is good. During the following week we settled into a nice routine of packing up camp, floating a few miles, finding a cold side stream to hike, and casting dry flies to wild brookies. Once explored, we’d move along downstream. The river would transition in and out of the various lakes that are interspersed along the waterway. When the sun headed for the horizon, we’d find a new campsite to call home for a night. Rain would come and go, as would the wind, bugs, denning garter snakes, eagles, loons, beaver, and of course, more moose. There’s a common thread that runs between backpacking, overlanding, and multi-day kayaking, or any other self-supported activity. That link is simplicity and self-containment. Shed all the unnecessary burdens of the world, load up the bare essentials in whatever platform you choose, and get back to the lost art of experiencing your surroundings and smelling the proverbial roses. Our final night was spent portaging around and camping near the roaring waters of Allagash Falls. We reflected by the fire with the last of our whiskey, as sparks from the campfire battled the falling rain. By the next evening, we’d be back in the JK Rubicon, seeking the next trail, the next stream, the next bite, and planning our next adventure in the North Maine Woods.

North Maine Woods Resource Guide Getting There, Maps, and GPS NMW is accessed through Quebec, New Brunswick, or route I-95, Southern Maine. The Maine Gazetteer is a must for navigation. National Geographic/Trails Illustrated, Allagash Wilderness Waterway, is an excellent guide. Some logging roads are on GPS navigation systems, some are not. Information and maps are available on the North Maine Woods website: northmainewoods.org Border Crossings, Fees, and Permits The primary border crossing from Canada is into Fort Kent, Maine. Crossings such as the one near Saint-Pamphile, Quebec, may or may not be staffed on the weekends. NMW fees of $14/$20 (resident/non-resident) per day are paid at entry checkpoints. A valid State of Maine fishing license is required. maine.gov/ifw Vehicle and Gear Most logging roads are not difficult and our Jeep JK was more than sufficient. Tracks can be narrow and crossbar-style roof racks can snag trees. We used a streamlined Gobi unit. Sit-on-top kayaks, such as our Jackson Coosa, tend to be more stable than conventional kayaks and work better for float fishing. As for camping gear, tents, sleeping bags, pads, and stoves are sufficient for the regular season. Quality bug repellant (such as Repel Sportsmen Max) and a tarp is a must (head nets can be handy for the mosquitos). Distances can be extensive. Fuel is available in perimeter towns but not in the NMW, so plan accordingly. On the Water To maintain the region’s classic canoeing heritage, Allagash watercraft regulations prohibit the use of rafts or other inflatables. The width of a kayak or canoe must not exceed 25 percent of the length. state.me.us/doc/parks/programs/awwcanoe Seasons, Shuttles, and Provisions The official season is May 1 through September 30. Peak travel is June through early August. There are several river shuttle companies (check online). We used and can recommend Norman at Pelletier’s Campground: mainerec.com/pellcamp.shtml

Wet wading up a clear, cold Allagash tributary. Overland Journal Winter 2012

Overland Journal Winter 2012

North Maine Woods Trip Cartography by David Medeiros (mapbliss.com)

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Route

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Overland Journal Winter 2012

Living Legends Interview by Chris Collard Images courtesy of Jeep Jamboree USA

Mark A. Smith The Godfather of Jeeping shares six decades of expedition travel. Overland Journal Winter 2012

Photo by Chris Collard

Overland Journal Winter 2012

first met Mark Smith in 1995. I’d walked into the offices of Jeep Jamboree USA (JJUSA), in Georgetown, California, with a large package under my arm. I was their new UPS guy. Mark pulled into the parking lot, energetically climbed out of his Jeep Grand Cherokee, made a beeline for the building, and swung open the rustic office door… “Good morning, everyone.” From my rookie-adventurer standpoint, Mark was a legend in the four-wheel drive world. He was one of the founding fathers of the famed Jeepers Jamboree on the Rubicon Trail, and had led the first unsupported expedition through the Darien Gap—Colombia to Panama in 1979— part of Expedition de las Americas, a six-month trek from Ushuaia, Argentina to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska. Mark is the type of man whose reputation and persona precede him. A square shooter, who will look you straight in the eye if he has something to say. Though he’s not from the South, he speaks with a bit of a Southern drawl and with a tightened gait to his jaw, reminiscent of a young Clint Eastwood. Having served as a U.S. Marine during WWII, he’s probably fairly handy with a sidearm as well. Not wanting to appear like a star-struck wannabe, I looked up, said, “good morning,” and kept to my work. A few years later I was on a flight to North Carolina. I’d somehow fandangled my way into working for JJUSA as a trip guide on some of their U.S. events. Mark, sitting to my right, had negotiated my upgrade to first class and was proceeding to share his personal recollections of the Darien. On layover at the Denver airport, I could barely keep up with him as he marched through the terminal, long gray ponytail trailing from under his Jeep ball cap, towards the United Red Carpet Club. Even the casual observer could see his life was one of purpose and direction; each move calculated, each turn with a goal in mind. It’s been years since I delivered my last package to the Jamboree office. But recently, after attending the 60th annual Jeepers Jamboree, I had a chance to have lunch with Mark. At 85 years of age, his youthful eyes have an unmistakable twinkle to them; his smile and enthusiasm are contagious. In the past six decades, his adventurous spirit has led him through more than 100 countries, across six continents, and to the North Pole. He has worked with Camel Trophy, been an advisor for auto manufacturers, and juggled a dozen careers—some sequentially, some simultaneously. It is said that people view life with the glass half full or half empty: I doubt Mark’s cup is ever a sip below full. At lunch he said to me, “If you have a dream, you need to follow it, no matter what.” It’s been a pleasure to know Mark personally, and I’m honored to introduce you to one of the World’s true living legends: Mark A. Smith, the Father of Jeeping.

“You need to pursue your dreams and not give up. Destiny has something to do with what we end up doing, but it also takes determination and perseverance to make your dreams come true.” You grew up in the remote mining town of Kimberly, Nevada, in a family with a long lineage of miners. How did you occupy your time as a youth, and when did you realize that exploration would become part of your life?

That was years before World War II and the creation of the Willys Jeep. Considering your life has revolved around Jeeps, naming your dog “Jeep” was rather prophetic. Do you believe in fate or destiny? Was there something you knew at the time?

One of Mark’s prized possessions is his 1978 Jeep CJ7, lead vehicle on Expedition de las Americas.

You joined the Marine Crops in 1944, and at the end of the war you were assigned to the USS Little Rock for a round-the-world goodwill tour. Was this your first exposure to the rest of the world? How did it affect your future ambitions to travel?

As a little boy, I’d get up in the mornings and go out exploring. I had a dog named “Jeep,” after Eugene the Jeep in Popeye cartoons. We would walk around and catch lizards, horned toads, and chipmunks, and just enjoy the outdoors. I could never understand why in the mornings, when the sun was coming up, other people wanted to sleep in. I would look out and see so much to do. I couldn’t wait to get up and go exploring.

In some ways, I think people make their own destiny. You need to pursue your dreams and not give up. Destiny has something to do with what we end up doing, but it also takes determination and perseverance to make your dreams come true. You just can’t sit back and think that they will come to you.

I got very lucky. I’d put in for Sea School training and was approved. We were heading for the Panama Canal and the South Pacific for the invasion of Japan when we got word that the Japanese had surrendered. We were reassigned to a nine-month goodwill tour, beginning in every major port in South America, then Africa and Europe. Unfortunately, my platoon ended up in the Okinawa invasion and some of them didn’t make it back. I’ve always felt regret that I did not go into combat with the platoon I had trained with. Yet, I realize now I was very fortunate for what the future had in store for me. I have always been interested in ancient history and of course, travel. My mother was a history buff. She started my interest at an early age. Studying ancient history in school also added to my curiosity. The goodwill tour added to my interest in travel. Visiting these Overland Journal Winter 2012

“If you have a dream, you need to follow it, no matter what.” ports and learning the history, as well as what the area was known for, was my number one priority.

Mark Smith is one of the founding fathers of the Jeepers Jamboree and held the position of “Jeepmaster” for 40 years. This year marked the 60th annual event (photo by Chris Collard).

Overland Journal Winter 2012

After the war you moved to Georgetown, California and bought a surplus military Jeep for $500. A few years later you were involved with the first Jeepers Jamboree. Can you tell us about it?

In 1952, a small group of Rotarians met at my house to discuss the possibility of a Jeep trip across the Sierras on the Old Rubicon Trail. The purpose was to help the depressed economy of the Georgetown Divide area. Several pre-scouting trips were made to determine the route and camp areas. The first Jamboree was held in August of 1953. We had 55 Jeeps and 155 people. It was a big success and continued to grow over the years. It was a huge

help to the town’s economy. The Georgetown Rotary Club and the Georgetown Rifle and Gun Club became the first sponsors, and I was named “Jeepmaster,” a title that lasted for 40 years. How did your involvement with Jeepers Jamboree lead to a relationship with AMC/ Jeep?

The second year of the Jamboree, people from Willys Motors Company, including a few top executives, started coming with us [Mark laughs]. We were actually showing them what their vehicles were capable of. The relationship grew from there and survived the changes to Kaiser Motors, American Motors, Chrysler, Daimler, and Fiat. I worked with Jeep on the introduction of the CJ-7, Cherokee, Wrangler, and Comanche, and built more

than 100 driving courses around the country, including a mini Rubicon at their proving grounds in Chelsea, Michigan. I continued to work as a consultant for many years. You made several trips to the Baja peninsula in the 1950s, before the paved road was built. What drew you to Mexico and this remote region? How far south did you venture and how long did it take?

It was just another place to explore and learn about. I went all the way to the tip at that time; it took seven days from the border to La Paz. It was a very primitive dirt road.

In 1978, you and a group of fellow Jeepers embarked on a six-month trek through North and South America. This included crossing the Darien Gap between Panama and Columbia. How and when did you come up with the concept for this expedition?

It started as a 12-year dream and a challenge. After doing the Rubicon for so many years, I started looking for the ultimate challenge with a Jeep, just as a mountain climber looks for a higher mountain. The Darien was it. I first heard about the Darien when I was in my 30s. It was the uncompleted portion of the Pan American Highway. There were 250 miles of primitive jungle and swamp, with up to 400 inches of rain each year. I read an article about a couple of guys trying to cross the Darien in a Land Rover who had been unsuccessful. I started thinking about doing the expedition in the 60s. I would describe the Darien as 10 times tougher and 10 times harder than the Rubicon. How did you gather information for an endeavor of this scale? Were exploratory scouting trips necessary?

Top to bottom: In 1979 Mark and a group of California adventurers made the first successful unsupported crossing of the Darien Gap between Panama and Colombia. South America homecoming in Georgetown, California. Heading to work, briefcase in hand, on the icy runway of Whales, Alaska. The snowmobile and sled are standard taxi service to town.

The Darien was part of a six-month expedition from Ushuaia, Argentina, to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska. It was a snake- and insect-infested 250-mile stretch of jungle and swamp between Columbia and Panama. We made two scouting trips to Panama and Columbia [1976 and 1977] to get an idea of what we were getting into and what type of equipment we would need. A major British Army unit was the first to cross the Darien. There were 250 men involved, including British Army engineers, Colombian Navy, and Panamanian Guardia. It took them 100 days to take two vehicles

through. They lost eight Columbian Marines in a river crossing. During our first scouting trip, we returned to the hotel after several days in the jungle— we were exhausted. We took a straw poll, voting one-to-ten on what our chances would be of completing the Darien. Four of us came up with 90 percent odds against us; the jungle was just too fierce. That night in the hotel I lay in bed awake. I knew there must be an answer. On the second trip we flew over the Atrato Swamp in Columbia. It is a vast and green swamp with water channels 50 feet wide. Our Colombian friend, Carlos Martinez, had obtained high-altitude reconnaissance photos, showing the areas we would have to cross. After pre-scouting, we took another vote on our chances of completing the crossing. This time we felt we had a 90 percent chance of success. How did you select your team, and can you tell us about the equipment needed?

We worked with AMC Jeep, who provided us with five stock CJ7s. Bill Ramsey at Ramsey Winch provided winches for the Jeeps, and we had two PTO winches. One of the things we learned from the British was about the use of bridging ladders. Theirs were long and heavy, so we set out to design ladders for our specific needs. We recruited an engineering student named Jeff Halston to build the ladders, which were made of aluminum. He also built pontoons for floating the Jeeps across the Darien’s many rivers. We could never have succeeded without the bridging ladders, but we never ended up using the pontoons. Instead we recruited the Indians and their canoes to float the Jeeps. One river crossing was on a balsa wood raft built by the natives. As for the crew, we had 14 handpicked Americans, 3 Colombians, and 25 Chaco Indians, who cut trail for us. Because the Indian bush cutters from Colombia did not have Panama visas, they turned back midway, and we recruited Indians from local villages. We entered the jungle on January 15, 1979. With the team effort and equipment we had, we made it through the 103 miles in 30 days. Would you say there was a secret to your success in the Darien?

One of the things the Marine Corps taught me was to never give up. We were also taught to stand our ground and never retreat. And, that if you were in command, never ask anyone to do something that you wouldn’t do. Overland Journal Winter 2012

I heard rumors that during the Mexico segment of Expedition de las Americas, you drove straight through a military checkpoint in Mexico without stopping. What happened?

At that time, the official vehicles in Latin American countries were orange. Our Jeeps were orange and looked official. Approaching the military checkpoint, using CB radio, I told the guys we would bluff to see if we could get by. As I approached the checkpoint, I saluted and kept driving. They looked dumbfounded; we continued with no problem.

Can you tell us about working with the Camel Trophy?

With extensive experience in technical driving and extrication procedures, Mark spent many years training U.S. Special Forces in the use of bridging ladders and recovery equipment. Mark slipped his Range Rover off a plank bridge while scouting the Madagascar Camel Trophy. String of Range Rovers during the 1987 Camel Trophy in Madagascar. Opposite: Mark had always dreamed of standing on the North Pole. At nearly 80 years of age (in 2005), he booked a ticket on a Russian nuclear-powered icebreaker, the Yamal. A collector of all things Jeep, Mark recently opened his Jeep Museum in Georgetown, California. Mark’s “happy place” is when he’s behind the wheel of his Jeep, cowboy hat on the dash, with his canine friend JJ by his side.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

I was retained by Duncan Lee of Reynolds Tobacco to lead the 1987 Camel Trophy in Madagascar. It required three trips to England for meetings, training, and final selection of teams. It also required a two-month scouting trip. For this we had a Land Rover, two Range Rovers, and eight people. At the time, I had no problem with working with a non-Jeep vehicle. The scouting was over very primitive terrain and washed out bridges; it was an expedition in itself. The actual event was a series of forced deliberate hardships. Teams competed against one another through obstacles, compass routes, and winching, and were rated on different segments. All teams needed to carry their own supplies: food, spare parts, anything that might be needed to complete the event. At one point, the vehicle I was in crossed a swampy area. Water was up over the headlights and up to my waist. The vehicle was still running because of the snorkel and being a diesel. I kept looking down to see if there was anything swimming with me in the vehicle. You started Jeep Jamboree USA in 1983 and began leading Jeep trips all over the U.S. In what other countries have you led Jamborees?

We’ve held Jamborees in Australia, Europe, Canada, and Mexico.

Many people might think you’ve spent your life driving Jeeps around the world, but you’ve also had careers as a miner, airport manager, sheriff’s deputy, owner of a lumber company, and real estate developer and

broker. How have you juggled so many careers and still managed to travel?

Where there is a will, there is a way. I have always been capable of doing several things at a time. Many of the trips and travels just blended together. I have always lived for a challenge. At the first Jeepers Jamboree you were deemed “Jeepmaster,” and for years you have been referred to as “The Father of Jeeping.” Has carrying this title levied additional responsibilities?

I wouldn’t say it levied additional responsibilities. It has made me aware and determined to fight those that are constantly trying to close public lands. I have made the commitment to do what I can to keep trails open. I learned a long time ago to not be afraid to challenge authority. Those in a position of power are not always right. You have traveled through most of the world, much of it by four-wheel drive. Do you have a favorite place, one that you would like to return to, or suggest others to visit?

Australia has drawn me back about 20-25 times. I have probably seen more of Australia than many Australians. We did many events in Australia, including the reintroduction of Jeep. I still have the interest and drive to explore. A few years back, I went to Myanmar, formerly known as Burma. We went with the intent of retracing the old Burma Road of WWII fame. The road was used to transport war materials from India to China to assist the Chinese in fighting the Japanese. Have you kept track of the number of countries and continents you’ve visited?

It would be easier to say which continents I haven’t visited, which would be Antarctica. With my own travels and with the Marine Corps, there aren’t many countries I haven’t visited. I’ve heard rumors about a special tattoo?

Yes, I have a “Jeep” tattoo. It’s on my butt.

You have been married to your wife, Irene, since 1951. During this time you have been gone on expeditions for up to six months at a time. What is your secret to extended travel and a happy marriage?

Probably what contributed to a long lasting marriage with Irene was being gone so

Even the casual observer could see his life was one of purpose and direction; each move calculated, each turn with a goal in mind.

much. Both of us have a sense of humor. I think you need one to put up with some of the things I have done. At 85 years of age, you still come into the office every morning at eight o’clock . Are you planning on retiring?

Photos by Chris Collard

Many people have asked, “When are you going to retire?” My answer is, “When I die.” Why, I’m having too much fun, loving life, and experiencing new adventures. When I’m gone, if there is another world out there, I’ll probably be exploring it with my dog in my Jeep. Do you have any regrets, things you might have done differently?

No.

Do you have any advice for us? For someone who dreams of creating an exceptional overland trek, or a life of expedition travel?

Many people have said that I have more guts than brains. If you have the dream or the desire to do something, do it. Also, enjoy old age; don’t complain, not everyone has that privilege.

Mark Smith’s 350-page journal, Driven by a Dream, is available from jeepjamboreeusa.com, 530-333-4777.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

A Modern Classic BMW Paris-Dakar R100GS:

the genesis of the modern dual-sport. By Ray Hyland Photography by Chris Collard

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he Arizona sunshine was clear and bright; the crisp winter air smelled like the pine needles on the side of the road. As I pushed the big bike a little harder into each corner, the persistent thought running through my head was, “I wonder what I am going to scrape first, the massive crashbars at the front of this bike or the even more massive panniers at the rear?” Surprisingly, for me, I wasn’t too concerned about either possibility. The bike was so solid and predictable, I felt confident in my ability to keep it vertical once the sparks started flying. This was my first outing on a BMW R100GS PD, a true classic among motorbikes. I wanted to find out why riders around the world still covet this bike for everything from city commutes to solo circumnavigations.

Pedigree

The classic BMW R100GS, with a 247, flat twin, air-cooled engine.

The bike I was on was a 1992 model, one of the last of the Airhead Boxers. This particular engine is known among the BMW faithful as the 247, a flat twin, air-cooled engine in production since

1969. Yet the basic design behind the 247 is even older, dating back to 1923. It is a classic example of “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” The airhead (and its successor, the Oilhead) became a popular engine because the design offers a number of advantages over other engine styles. The flat twin configuration puts the mass of the engine very close to the ground, giving the bike a low centre of gravity. Because both cylinder heads are exposed to cooling airflow when the bike is in motion, the engine cools efficiently and uniformly. The air-cooled motor saves weight, cost, and complexity. The final advantage, not to be overlooked when riding across frozen tundra or a high mountain pass, is that the rider’s feet stay nice and warm, tucked in behind the hot cylinder heads.

Ground Breaking

The well-designed engine is not the only feature that sets this bike apart. The GS category as we know it today is a direct result. In the late 1970s, the only competitive off-pavement bikes were small, nimble, and single-cylinder. Then BMWs, with their big, airhead-based motorcycles, started Overland Journal Winter 2012

The R100GS PD shouts “dirt capability” when you look at it, yet whispers “all-day comfort” when you sit on the wide, soft seat.

to compete (and win) in European rally-style races. It was the beginning of an era. In 1979, a new rally-style competition emerged—The Paris to Dakar. With a combination of longdistances, challenging terrain, and romantic backdrops, the Paris-Dakar quickly became a public favorite. When the first two races were won by Yamaha XT500s, BMW decided, in 1981, they wanted to be on the podium. They built a bike with a revolutionary rear end—a shaft-drive housing that worked as a single-sided swing arm—which BMW called the Monolever. The advantage of the Monolever was lighter weight and greater torsional rigidity. The rest of the bike was what we refer to now as classic Dakar styling: long-travel suspension to enhance ground clearance, tall, wide handlebars, an oversized fuel tank, and a rugged, mechanically simple approach to everything else. They called it the R80G/S. Three were entered in the Dakar that year and they finished first, fourth and seventh. The R80G/S continued to be a competitive racing bike through the mid-1980s. BMW sales across Europe soared. They realized that the adventure-touring market was broader than previously thought. Market research showed that 98 percent of G/S bikes were ridden on the pavement. The “G/S” stood for Gelande/Strasse, or Terrain/Street. They decided to skew their bikes more toward Overland Journal Winter 2012

the street, but retain the G/S’s rally heritage, subtly renaming the series “the GS,” short for Gelande-Sport. The new GS offered more predictable handling on the street, especially under hard acceleration, via a redesigned rear suspension called the Paralever. Bigger forks, a 17-inch rear wheel, rims that could accept tubeless tires, and revised bodywork completed the package. The new bikes, the R80GS and the R100GS, were launched in 1987. Though bigger and heavier, and not as nimble in the dirt, the GS series was perfect for the adventure-riding public. The average long-distance touring rider didn’t need to be able to cross sand dunes at 80 mph. He/ she wanted a bike that would cruise all day in any weather at 70 mph, be comfortable and predictable, yet could competently navigate a patch of soft sand, a muddy swamp, or rocky ridge trail when needed. The Paris-Dakar (or PD) version of the GS does all of that. With an oversized fuel tank, hard panniers, luggage rack, and wide impact protection bars, the R100GS PD is a bike that shouts “dirt capability” when you look at it, yet whispers “all-day comfort” when you sit on the wide, soft seat.

First Impressions

Your first impression on approaching the R110GS is one of sturdiness. By modern

adventure-touring standards it isn’t very tall, but everything about it looks solid. The wide grips, fat tank and seat, large windscreen, wide cylinder heads, and inch-thick steel impact-bars wrapping around everything, contribute to a bike that looks like it could go head-to-head with a small rhino. When you swing your leg over the seat you realize that this is a bike designed for confident riders. The panniers are huge, and you need a certain amount of flexibility to get your foot over them. Additionally, it is not easy to get the bike on, or off, the centre stand. You need to push the bike off the centre stand before mounting, then use the spring-mounted side-stand. The side-stand sits out quite far, and forward of the cylinder head when extended, so stability is good. The downside is that you can’t reach it with your foot when seated on the bike. No problem, once the bike is pulled vertical, the side stand snaps into place under the left exhaust pipe. When dismounting, you can’t do the lazy-biker method of pushing the side stand down with your left-heel and sliding off the saddle. You need to hold the bike upright, dismount, and push the side stand down. Sounds simple enough, but after 10 hours in the saddle, when your body is half-frozen and your muscles feel like jelly, doing this little dance with a 500-pound (unloaded) bike can make you The wide centre stand is especially welcome on softer ground. The panniers sit well off the ground. Wide, flat, load space across the rear.

1. The crash bars give adequate protection without being obtrusive. 2. Big, easy-to-read analogue gauges. 3. Metzeler tires are tough yet predictable. The rear drum dates the bike but is still adequate. 4. Simple and uncluttered cockpit. The high windscreen gives great protection in all conditions. 5. The carburetors are well protected behind the cylinder heads. The boxer configuration ensures warm toes on cold mornings. 6. Auxiliary lighting adds safety but doesn’t look out of place. The light guard is critical when following trucks on gravel. 7. The low centre of gravity makes the PD surprisingly easy to stand on the pegs for slow technical riding. 8. The single front disk is tiny by modern dual-sport standards. Overland Journal Winter 2012

crack jokes about sadistic BMW engineers. On the other hand, the fiberglass tank sports a built-in locking compartment, top-centre, handy for keys, gloves, etc. Once mounted, the next challenge is figuring out how the controls work. The choke is a large circular switch above your left thumb, which you would expect to push with your thumb. Instead you must grasp it with your left hand and rotate it towards you. The key goes into a slot in front of you, but the BMW key has an odd fold in it to keep it from protruding when riding. The starter switch is a small green button atop a red two-way kill switch on the right bar above the grip. The signals are little flappy paddles under each grip. To turn off the signals, there is a small button under the right grip that you must push with the side of your thumb. The horn is in the same inexplicable position, but under the left grip. It is all very odd if you are used to what we now think of as “universal” controls. I am sure that after a few thousand miles it would all become second nature. The air-cooled twin engine roars to life, then settles down with a throaty voice that instantly transports you back in time. The twointo-one exhaust, with SuperTrapp spark-arrester, has a rough and raspy tone that sounds aggressive but not obnoxious—perfect for the bike’s heritage. When you slip the clutch and let the Airhead draw you back against the grips, you really begin to appreciate the ParisDakar GS. Pulling away from the curb you are struck simultaneously by how huge the tank seems between your knees, yet how well balanced and behaved the bike is. This is partially due to the low centre of gravity, partially due to the tank design. The bulk of the fuel sits down low, straddling the crankcase and giving the PD polite low-speed manners. I rode a KTM 950 Adventure the week prior, and though the KTM is a 20-year-newer design, I found the BMW much easier to maneuver at ultra-low speeds. In the twisties, the Dakar is pure fun to ride. It turns in predictably, has loads of torque when pulling out of a corner, regardless of what gear you are in, and power delivery is smooth and easy. You never feel this bike is about to get away from you. On the highway, riding with other bikes, you remember that it is an older design. At 70 mph you find yourself looking for a sixth gear. It will cruise at Overland Journal Winter 2012

It’s a bike that fills your head with dreams of wide-open places, stunning vistas, and isolated backcountry campsites. that speed in fifth, but an extra gear would drop the RPMs enough to reduce rider fatigue on longer rides. The only drawback I found was that when you show up on a day ride with a couple of big empty aluminum panniers, everyone starts handing you phones, sweaters, and other assorted gear. You can quickly become the mule of the group.

The 1992 R100GS PD we tested has held up well over the last 20 years. I wanted to understand why the dual-sport world still seeks out this decades-old workhorse. Unfortunately, now I know only too well—if anyone has one for sale, let me know. bmw-motorrad. com, 800-831-1117 (U.S.)

Reflections

Sure, you can feel the PD’s age, especially when you’ve spent time on the latest dualsports. But this in no way diminishes the pure enjoyment of riding this classic bike. It may not be as fast as current street bike offerings, or as technically competent as many modern dual-sports, but for overall practicality, resale value, and fun factor, the Dakar is hard to beat. The confidence derived from the PD’s stance, the low centre of gravity, and the seemingly endless low-rpm torque, demonstrate why this bike launched a whole new category of motorcycle. After a few hours, any weekender will feel ready to take on Dakar, or ride solo across Africa. It’s a bike that fills your head with dreams of wide-open places, stunning vistas, and isolated backcountry campsites.

Specifications

• Engine: air-cooled, 2-cylinder, 4-stroke • Displacement: 979 cc • Bore x stroke: 94 mm x 70.6 mm • Power: 59.55 hp (6,500 rpm) • Torque: 56 ft-lb (3,750 rpm) • Compression: 8.5:1 • Lubrication: wet sump • Final drive: shaft • Dimensions (LxWxH): 90.1x39.3x45.8 in • Seat height: 33.4 in • Weight: 496 lb (225 kg) • Fuel capacity: 5.54 gal (21 L) • Top speed: 112 mph (181 kph)

The R100GS is stable and instantly gives the rider confidence on the dirt.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Infinita Highway From architects to adventurers, two Brazilian mainstreamers take to the road. By Leonardo and Daniele Pinheiro

Overland Journal Winter 2012

As Brazilian architects, we were not unlike thousands of other people around the world—except for the 2.5-hour

commute each way to work. We had accepted a very routine life, one with a lot of traffic, high stress, and high taxes. We were also very disappointed with the architecture business in Brazil. With no room for anything but profit, the functionality and art form of design had been pushed aside for the bottom line. The beginning of the end, when our lives took a turn for the better, was while planning a vacation in Egypt. We had talked about making an extended trip, something more than a “vacation,” and decided we could not wait any longer. At the time, we didn’t have enough money to just leave, yet we set about making a plan. We would travel by car from Ushuaia, at the southern tip of South America, to Prudhoe Bay, at the northern tip of North America. We’d always wanted to know more about the Americas and witness the beauty of each individual country. On a piece of paper, we sketched an itinerary. Climate conditions would be a priority, as we would need to be in Ushuaia and Alaska during their summer months. It would take us a year to prepare our exit strategy. Our plan was very simple. We would travel in Troller, our Brazilian diesel Jeep. At first sight it seemed very small, but we made adjustments so it could be our home for the months of travel. A month before departure, we quit our jobs—this was perhaps the easiest decision we made—and dedicated the following weeks to the Jeep’s final preparations. On February 13th, with butterflies in our stomachs, we drove off into the unknown to chase our dreams. South America surprised us with its diversity of landscapes and cultures, a high point being Southern Bolivia. The roads can dislocate your spine, the 12,000-foot elevation can cause severe fatigue, and temperatures can be freezing. But the beauty of the region made us forget these discomforts quickly. The ruins of the Incas in Peru are beyond words, and the diversity of flora and fauna are not to be missed. Unfortunately, we had heard bad things about Colombia—drug trafficking, guerrillas, kidnapping—and our planned route through the country would be more of a mad race. Why? Fear! Route Campos de Cima da Serra is the coldest place in Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil, much sought after in winter by Brazilians who want to see snow. It is a region of contrasting natural beauty, such as the many waterfalls and green canyons of Parque dos Aparados Serra and Parque da Serra Geral. In the midst of mountains, lakes, forests, and snow is the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (the Glaciers). It contains two of the most

renowned peaks in South America, Fitz Roy and Cerro Torres, which attract climbers worldwide. We found that a simple walk through the park was rewarding enough. (Opening spread)

Panoramic views of Chilean Patagonia reward the traveler on the Carretera Austral.

Talking to other travelers, we were encouraged to witness Colombia in a true overland way. We decided to trust in our road friends and not listen to the sensationalism of most TV reports. After visiting Colombia, we would now say the most “dangerous” part of this country is the roads. The guerrilla issues are not completely resolved, but they are limited to isolated areas. What at first might scare you is the number of troops and armed police. Yet unlike neighboring countries, they work honestly and were always friendly. If we had decided to skip Colombia, it would have been a cultural prejudice and a wasted opportunity. Without a doubt, leaving it all behind has been a life-changing experience. We feel alive, free. We’ve enjoyed many great moments, but two were certainly the most significant: the day we committed to go, and the moment we turned the key and drove into the unknown. While each geographical border represents an achievement, the real borders are the differences: cultural, racial, and physical. We are always learning from them, every day overcoming fears and discarding prejudices. You never know what you’ll find or how you will be received. We take time to get used to new foods, climates, and customs, and when we begin to feel at home, we know it is time to move towards the new. This is what keeps us in constant motion. Overland Journal Winter 2012

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Located in Parque Nacional los Glaciares, the Perito Moreno glacier is considered to be one of the most important freshwater sources in the world. Its dimensions are impressive, as is the deafening noise it creates when it calves. In moments when the glacier is not active, the area’s silence reminded us of just how small we are, yet how our actions can negatively impact the environment. Hard work, thin Andean air, and the harsh rays of the sun take their toll on residents of Tilcara, Northwest Argentina. Their lives are simple, clean, and peaceful, yet longevity is lower than average. From the top of Route 52, on the way to Paso de Jama, you can see the road’s snake-like nature as it winds its way through the Andes. This was the first time we felt the evils of altitude sickness: headaches, nausea, and fatigue.

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Though nearby facilities are scarce, Volcano Quilotoa, Ecuador, has become a popular tourist site. The emerald green

caldera, which spans two miles and is 820 feet deep, was formed 800 years ago, following the VEI6 eruption. The water is said to get its emerald appearance from the high mineral content.

The town of Salento, Colombia, seemed to be colorfully frozen in time. The bustling Calle Real, the

“coffee zone,” has a special and unique charm. Set between peaceful green mountains, there is no doubt about the tourist potential as Colombia becomes more accepted as a destination.

Machu Picchu, known as “The Lost City of the Incas,” was unknown to the modern world until its 1911 discovery by American historian Hiram Bingham. It is a magical place, one of the Seven Wonders of the modern World. The park is accessed by train from Cusco, or via the Inca Trail. Overland Journal Winter 2012

Denali National Park was certainly the most striking of all the parks we visited in the U.S. It

provides many opportunities to view animals in their natural habitat and the charming Mt. McKinley is not to be missed.

This photo will be forever in our memories. After six months on the road, we were so close to reaching the northern end of North America. Arriving in Alaska was much

more than knowing we would achieve our goal, it represented the faith we placed in our dreams, and the determination to achieve them.

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Infinita Highway Trip Cartography by David Medeiros (mapbliss.com)

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Elmer Technical Editor James Langan launches our long-term Tundra project. By James Langan

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Establishing a Baseline

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n January 2008, my friend Dan and I imported two Kimberley Kamper (KK) SportsRV trailers directly from Australia. Using Dan’s designs we made a few modifications to each and loved using them. I paid off my loan in just two years and was anticipating decades of travel with my luxury condo-on-wheels. One month later, my trailer was hit broadside by a Land Rover Discovery and rolled onto its lid. It was a total loss. After jumping through the insurance hoops, I decided to avoid the excitement of exotic-trailer ownership and build a new pickup instead.

Natural Selection

It had been 15 years since my last new truck purchase. Back then, selection was primarily based on the drivetrain (a mistake). The rest of the truck is equally important. I’ve owned several four-wheel-drive pickups and all but one were full-sized domestic rigs. My tall frame is happy in a big truck and I find them more versatile for towing heavy trailers, hauling bulky cargo, dogs, and (with the advent of crew cabs) people. Long before the KK rollover, the secondgeneration Toyota Tundra had caught my eye. Later, the Ford F150 3.5-liter, direct-injection, EcoBoost V6 appealed as an almost diesel option. Overland Journal Winter 2012

After test drives and careful inspection, I was impressed by the F150’s turbocharged V6 and 6-speed transmission. Ford also offers an “any-speed” locking rear differential in the F150. Toyota does not. After years driving a crew cab with discreet storage behind the back seat, I wanted this feature, which the F150 SuperCrew didn’t offer. With better aftermarket support, more appealing style, and the knowledge that I could add most of what it lacked, a 5.7-liter Tundra CrewMax Rock Warrior (RW) landed at the top of my list. The RW package was selected for its relatively Spartan layout, Bilstein® shocks, 17inch TRD forged-aluminum wheels, and 33inch BFGoodrich All-Terrain tires. The huge brakes on second-generation Tundras typically require 18-inch wheels—very few 17s clear the calipers. All RWs come with a black interior—idiotic for a 4WD truck. White has been my truck color of choice: It’s cooler in the summer, conceals backcountry pin striping, and looks good for decades. With its low-rider stance, typical of modern 4WDs, the stock RW is really just a “pebble princess” in stock form. All our family vehicles eventually earn a nickname. When my wife, Beth, saw the new, bone-stock Tundra for the first time, she teasingly called it my “old man truck.” I asked, “Like, Elmer?” The name stuck.

With every new four-wheel drive, I take a few measurements, test off-highway performance, and complete a careful, detailed break-in procedure before making any modifications. Sitting on commercial truck scales two days young, the vehicle’s gross wet weight was 5,720 pounds: 3,280 pounds on the front axle and 2,440 pounds on the rear. With 900 miles on the odometer, a repeatable fuel-economy test on a 68-mile section of freeway yielded 19.2 mpg at 65 mph. After my diligent break-in, all drivetrain fluids were changed to Red Line synthetics, except the transmission fluid which remains untouched. The first additions to all my builds are floor mats and seat covers. Husky Liners cover the black carpet and gray Covercraft custom-fit SeatSavers help lighten and protect the seats. This is the fourth truck I’ve fitted with SeatSavers, which are durable, well-constructed, and washable. Also added were a Tekonsha brand Prodigy P2 electric trailer brake controller, and Toyota “Drive Monitor” buttons. The latter was a plug-and-play modification that allows viewing of the ECM-monitored average fuel economy, instantaneous economy, range, and outside temperature in either U.S. or metric measurements.

OME, Air Lift, and Streetacos

I prefer a compliant ride, but many new trucks are sprung too softly for carrying loads or adventuresome off-pavement use. The Tundra needed a taller and more supportive suspension. As with my last two builds, I purchased ARB’s Old Man Emu (OME) system. With springs and dampers for both ends for only $1,200, it’s hard to argue against the value and performance of OME suspension. The 740-pound rated front coils come in three heights, separated by 0.4-inch increments (10 mm). I choose the middle ground, the OME614, designated as the heavy-duty spring option for the smaller 4.7-liter and 4.6-liter V8 engines. The 614s have been working perfectly, and I think they will still give enough lift when I add body armor and winch to the front. With the battery, ABS My rolled and totaled Kimberley Kamper was the catalyst for choosing a new overland platform.

LIGHTFORCE

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Retaining the OE size means the speedometer, odometer, ABS sensors, and ATRAC traction control remain in harmony, just as Mr. Toyoda intended.

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unit, and fuel tank all on the left side, Toyota trucks often list to port. To correct this, a Toy Tech half-inch aluminum spacer from Wheeler’s Off-Road was added to the left coil assembly, ensuring both sides were 3.5 inches taller than stock. In the rear, OME Dakar spring packs raised the truck exactly two inches. Warnings from Tacoma owners that the Dakar springs are too stiff when unloaded proved false for the Tundra, possibly due to the very long spring design. With the Dakar springs installed, this is the best riding leaf-sprung pickup I’ve ever driven, on-highway and off. To assist the spring’s load-carrying abilities, including supporting the weight of a well-optioned Four Wheel Camper (FWC), I decided to add air bags above the rear axle. Having experienced two unrelated failures with a competitor’s product on my 4Runner, I purchased and installed Air Lift’s coil system. I was immediately impressed by their fittings and kit design, and after three years I’ve had zero failures or leaks. The kit is completely bolt-on and installation was simple. Before suspension modifications were made, I’d felt a slight shudder on launch. I couldn’t put my finger on the problem until the lift made it much worse. The two-piece Tundra driveshaft is intolerant of angle changes. The shuddering when accelerating, particularly with a load, was intolerable and required an immediate solution. A carrierbearing drop bracket from Streetacos was inexpensive ($77), easy to install, and fixed the problem.

Light Racing Upper Control Arms

Adding a suspension lift of more than two inches typically makes it very difficult, if not impossible, to maintain factory alignment geometry. If excellent drivability, longevity, and low tire wear are desired, aftermarket upper control arms are needed for complete IFS adjustability. Despite the name, Light Racing upper control arms use an OE-style ball joint for maximum life. There is no additional noise or required maintenance, and articulation rivals that of spherical bearing (uni-ball) designs. The clockable, easily replaced ball joint offers a tremendous amount of caster and camber Overland Journal Winter 2012

adjustment. You just need to insure you clock them correctly for your desired caster angle. A few years ago I abused a set of Light Racing control arms on my 4Runner, eventually tearing the bushings by slamming the front end from maximum droop to the bump stops—I didn’t have enough front spring rate at the time. I wrote the company and shared my experience. Instead of dismissing my failure and concerns, Light Racing used my input to redesign their bushings and modified their installation instructions. I’ve never been more impressed by a company’s willingness to listen to criticism and improve a product. Since July 2011, Elmer has been running the second set of early-production revised ball joints, which are designed with better sealing and boot retention. They’ve been flawless.

Dick Cepek Tires and OEM Wheels

As noted above, the TRD Rock Warrior package comes with the smallest wheel that will fit the 2007 and later Tundra, a forgedaluminum 17x8-inch unit. The rims weigh 24 pounds each and are great for the stock LT285/70R17 tires, which can provide a halfinch more sidewall flex than the 18-inch option. The fake stainless steel beadlock rings make valve stem access fiddly, collect debris, damage the powder coating underneath, and must be removed to patch a flat using a tire machine. With the faux rings removed, the wheels are two pounds lighter and form and function are both superb. This is the first truck I’ve built in many years without immediate plans to increase the tire size: the 33-inch, LT285/70R17 tires are big enough. Retaining the OE size means the speedometer, odometer, ABS sensors, and ATRAC traction control remain in harmony, just as Mr. Toyoda intended. The stock BFG All-Terrains are good tires and very popular, but not my favorite tread design. After several hundred miles, I sold the BFGs to a friend and replaced them with Dick Cepek F-C II rubber. I love Dick Cepek F-C II “any terrain” tires. I’ve purchased four sets of these multifaceted treads in recent years, run them over varied terrain, and convinced friends to buy them. They typically cover at least 3,000 miles

Dick Cepek F-C II 285/70R17D tires; I love the F-C II hybrid tread design, they work. Opposite: 1. The complete ARB OME suspension system including Dakar leaf packs, new U-bolts, 614 coils, N193 and N192S dampers, and the FK32 brake line and ABS wire relocation bracket kit. 2. The Prodigy P2 brake controller is self-leveling and tolerant of atypical mounting locations and angles. 3. No Loss valve stem caps from Extreme Outback Products. 4. OME 614 coils and N192S dampers provide a slightly firmer, yet better controlled front suspension; Light Racing’s control arms correct the geometry with zero noise or additional maintenance. 5. Odyssey’s 31M-PC2150 dual-purpose marine battery replaced the tired unit in our used 2007 Hawk FWC. 6. These Drive Monitor buttons from Toyota replaced the OE dash blank, giving access to ECM data for mpg, range, and outside temperature. 7. SeatSaver custom-fit covers from Covercraft lighten the interior and protect the black cloth seats. 8. Air Lift Company’s bolt-on Tundra kit #57299 was easy to install and keeps the truck level when carrying our FWC. 9. Light Racing’s adjustable ball joint upper control arm below the OE arm. 10. The OME Dakar 2-inch lift springs and N193 shocks at full droop. 11. A half-inch Toy Tech aluminum spacer sourced from Wheeler’s Off-Road in Oregon laterally leveled the front. 12. Streetacos’ rear driveshaft carrier bearing drop bracket fixed the annoying driveline vibration.

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Four Wheel Campers Hawk exterior and interior.

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Specifications

2011 Toyota Tundra CrewMax • TRD Rock Warrior package • 145.7-inch wheelbase • 5.7-liter 3UR-FE aluminum V8, 32-valve DOHC, 381 hp @ 5,600 rpm, 401 lb-ft @ 3,600 rpm • AB60F 6-speed automatic transmission, with tow/haul mode • Electronically controlled transfer case, part-time 4WD, 2.618:1 low range • Differential ratio: 4.30:1 • Four-wheel disc brakes (13.9-in front, 13.6-in rear) • Fuel capacity: 26.4 gal (100 L) • Dick Cepek F-C II LT285/70R17D tires • Toyota TRD 17x8 forged aluminum wheels • Old Man Emu suspension: front 614 coils and N192S struts, rear Dakar leaf springs and N193 shocks • Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 air springs (rear) • Light Racing adjustable ball joint upper control arms • Hawk Four Wheel Camper Overland Journal Winter 2012

per 1/32 inch of rubber. With deeper-than-average tread, the longevity potential is supreme. Traction is very good in many conditions, partially because of the siping and the think-differently “hybrid” tread design. They are a little louder than some other multi-terrain tires, the tradeoff for high-void outer lugs. For 15 years I’ve been using No Loss valve caps from Extreme Outback Products on all my 4WDs and motos. They’re a great, inexpensive way to keep the debris out and the air in.

Four Wheel Campers: Hawk

Throughout my 27 years of 4WD enthusiasm, I’ve entertained the thought of purchasing a pop-up, cab-over camper. Beth and I were closest in 1993 after buying our first RV, a hard-sided 1963 Bell camper, which we mounted atop a custom flatbed on a firstgeneration Dodge/Cummins pickup. We had followed Gary and Monika Wescott’s adventures as they traveled the world with their Four Wheel Campers. If a FWC was good for them, one could surely work well for us. But we never acted and the years passed. With our Kimberley Kamper totaled and this Tundra build underway, the gestating idea of pop-up camper ownership had finally matured. Our budget wouldn’t tolerate a new model, and used units really hold their value. Diligent Craigslist shopping was rewarded when we found a 2007 Hawk in Southern California. It looked good in the snapshots, so I drove 500 miles south hoping for no surprises. This fully-loaded specimen was clean overall, made specifically for the tall bed sides of a second

generation Tundra, but it was the victim of some youthful use and had some undisclosed issues. After additional negotiation, a reduced offer was accepted. I had finally joined the ranks of pop-up camper owners. Weeks later I hauled the unit to FWC in Woodland, California, to have the huge surfboard roof rack removed, lots of little things fixed, and an overall tune-up performed. I also had a new Odyssey 31M-PC2150 battery installed. Now the backcountry is beckoning, and Elmer is ready for some extended treks through the American West. In upcoming issues we’ll be fitting Elmer with body armor, winches, electronics, and numerous overlanding accessories. There is much more ahead.

Resources Air Lift: airliftcompany.com, 800-248-0892 ARB: arbusa.com, 866-293-9078 Dick Cepek Tires: dickcepek.com, 330-928-9092 Extreme Outback Products: extremeoutback.com, 866-447-7711 Four Wheel Campers: fourwheelcampers.com, 800-242-1442 Light Racing: lightracing.com, 800-525-6505 Odyssey Battery: odysseybattery.com, 660-429-2165 Streetacos: streetacos.com, 760-637-9623 SeatSavers: covercraft.com, 800-426-8377 Wheeler’s Off-Road: wheelersoffroad.com, 541-474-2879

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Overland Conservation

The Gift of Mobility Many people take mobility for granted. However, due to poverty and economic isolation there are 100 million disabled people in the world without wheelchairs. Free Wheelchair Mission (FWM), founded by Don Schoendorfer in 2001, is a nonprofit organization dedicated to providing wheelchairs for the disabled in impoverished and developing nations. Schoendorfer recounts, “In the 1970s I saw a woman in Morocco dragging herself through the dirt, dodging carts and people. That scene remains in my mind, even to this day.” A mechanical engineer and inventor, Schoendorfer designed a sturdy wheelchair that now costs only $63.94 including delivery (recipients pay nothing). To date, FWM has delivered 684,000 wheelchairs to 86 countries around the world. “Wheelchair distribution,” says an FWM partner in India, “provides much more than mobility,” bringing dignity, independence, and hope. The overlanding community can support this effort by hosting fundraising events or volunteering to deliver wheelchairs during trips. freewheelchairmission.org, 800-733-0858

Alice Gugelev

Medical Empowerment

Andrew Cull, founder of Remote Medical International, recently started the Team 5 Foundation, together with Tom Milne and Eric Liner. The three friends realized that “Remote Medical volunteers usually have great intentions but little relevant experience, and big group dynamics often interfered with the mission.” Hence, Team 5 puts five experienced providers into truly remote areas, administering healthcare where needed. More importantly, they educate local medical staff, leaving behind equipment and supplies, and provide ongoing support to ensure self-sufficiency. Team 5 has already completed two deployments in Guatemala, where they trained 35 care providers and treated over 300 patients. As they develop locations across Africa and Asia, they are looking for experienced travelers to provide logistic assistance and medical care. Cull said, “Combining service with skills is very rewarding. A lot of overlanders forget that they have a unique skill. Get out and use it for some good!” team-5.org

Eco-Overlanding Noteworthy efforts around the globe

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Training in Rural Africa Larry and Sharon Currin (bushbabiesafricanadventure.co.za) are living their dream travelling overland throughout Africa. “The purpose of our trip is to experience various cultures and help children who do not have a fair chance in life,” say the Currins. The Bushbabies African Adventure duo recently visited the Kuunika Foundation in Malawi (kuunika-foundation-malawi.org). Kuunika’s goal is to have a sustainable impact on child welfare through nutrition, education, and economic empowerment.

thanks to Larry and Sharon. They have made a huge difference and we are looking forward to welcoming more overland volunteers.” In addition to needing volunteer trainers, Kuunika is accepting donations such as utensils, tools, irrigation supplies/ equipment, and nutritious food. Go to dogoodasyougo.org to coordinate your support.

At Kuunika, the couple leveraged their skills, teaching the Muskoka Entrepreneurship and Gardening Workshops. “We volunteer to give back a little of our knowledge,” states Sharon. The Kuunika trustees wrote: “A million

Larry and Sharon Currin working with children in Malawi.

All Overland Conservation article fees are donated by Overland Journal to Muskoka partner communities around the world. Updates on the use of these donations will appear in future Overland Journal articles.

Overland Journal Winter 2012

Overland Medicine

Dr. Jon Solberg

Frozen in Time The current and historical management of frostbite. 116

ome degree of frostbite has likely plagued all explorers who venture outside in the depths of winter. By understanding the pathophysiology of frostbite and how its classification, prevention, and management have evolved over the last 150 years, Overland Journal readers will be better equipped to continue exploring when the diesel gels and the wipers freeze.

Pathophysiology

Tissue damage from frostbite occurs before, during, and after freezing. As peripheral body tissue cools, blood vessels constrict and limit blood flow. This state of diminished perfusion deprives tissue of oxygen and is a principal cause of paresthesia (the tingling sensation felt before actual damage occurs). Eventually, ice crystals form inside a freezing cell, damaging cellular machinery and inducing the formation of toxic inflammatory byproducts. Eventually, the cell’s wall ruptures, spilling its toxic contents into the surrounding tissue where it

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promotes further damage and prevents the resumption of post-thaw metabolism.

Evolving Classification

Frostnip, a superficial, non-freezing injury which heralds the coming of frostbite, was well described by Roald Amundsen, famed Norwegian explorer, who wrote: “Our time was also a good deal taken up with thawing noses and cheeks as they froze, not that we stopped; we had no time for that. We simply took off a mitt, and laid the warm hand on the frozen spot as we went; when we thought we had restored sensation, we put the hand back into the mitt.” Frostbite has been traditionally classified using a system that parallels that of thermal burns: first degree, second degree, etc. Dr. Edward L. Atkinson utilized this method when documenting in his journals during the ill-fated and out-paced 1910-12 British Terra Nova South Pole Expedition. These classifications are difficult to assign, however,

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and the Wilderness Medical Society currently endorses a more flexible, two-tiered system: • Superficial frostbite no or minimal anticipated tissue loss

(previously termed 1st and 2nd degree frostbite).

• Deep frostbite deeper injury and anticipated tissue loss

(prevously termed 3rd and 4th degree frostbite).

An Ounce of Prevention

Frostbite, like sexually transmitted disease and sunburn, is easier to prevent than to treat. Maintaining top physical condition, eating a healthy diet, and avoiding drugs, alcohol, and certain medications, leads to enhanced peripheral perfusion and helps to prevent frostbite. Modern explorers benefit from scientifically designed foods and are unlikely to suffer from malnutrition and scurvy (vitamin C deficiency), a wasting disease that remained unexplained in 1902, when it affected Robert Falcon Scott, Dr. Edward Wilson, and Ernest Shackleton as they trekked back to the Discovery. Obviously, utilizing insulation, in addition to wind protection, is paramount. Dr. Alexander Macklin, surgeon on two of Shackleton’s expeditions, defined it thus: “To provide a non-conducting airspace round the skin.” Dr. Jean-Baptiste Charcot, a French polar expedition leader, encouraged his team members to layer their clothing and wear mittens rather than gloves: good advice even today. Covering all skin is advisable but not always feasible, as so eloquently phrased in limerick by Dr. George Murray Levick (Expedition Physician, Terra Nova’s northern party, 1910-13):

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“Wrapped up in your windproof your body’s all right With your hand lying snug in its mitten But your beautiful nose is exposed to frostbite And as often as not is frostbitten Whatever you wear in the wind, there remains The ever insoluble puzzle Of how to be happy though blue in the face With icicles stuck to your muzzle.” Some experimentation was occurring at the time with various emollients thought to prevent frostbite. Even Dr. Macklin himself noted, “Vaseline and glycerine have been used on the face to protect it from strong winds, and apparently with success.” Later, perhaps after an unfortunate personal experience, he changed his tune: “The application of Vaseline or ointment is the worst treatment possible, especially if the part is liable to be again exposed to cold.” Current doctrine accepts that, although certain emollients may make the skin feel warmer, there’s actually no effect on skin temperature and the application of such topicals is not recommended.

Prevent Further Injury

Refreezing an injury and reliance upon a frozen extremity should be avoided. The toxic components of frozen cells accumulate with rapidity if allowed to thaw and then refreeze. If any chance exists at Overland Journal Winter 2012

refreezing, it’s safer to keep the part frozen until a permanent thaw can be achieved. If, however, a frostbitten extremity begins to thaw on its own, don’t stop the process. Reliance on a frostbitten extremity for activities requiring manual dexterity is not advised, as frostbitten tissue lacks normal sensory/motor function. Numb feet and hands are also at risk for blisters, cuts, and scrapes, which may not be noticed in time to prevent further damage. Brief removal of boots and gloves is acceptable for situational awareness; however, frozen extremities may swell, once thawed, and it may become necessary to leave footwear in place. Early explorers like those of the Nordenskjold Swedish expedition of 1901-03 relied upon traditional treatment, rubbing the frozen part with gobs of arctic snow. This therapy was found to be ineffective by Dr. Wilson when he treated Shackleton’s frostbite: “Having heard from my youth up that frostbite should be rubbed with snow, I did so, with the result that the skin immediately came off, not from too vigorous rubbing but from the fact that at temperatures below zero the snow is as hard as sand . . .” Needless to say, rubbing a frostbitten extremity with snow is not currently endorsed by any medical society.

Proper Field Treatment

Rapid rewarming is currently the preferred management strategy, although early attempts proved unsuccessful and dangerous. Baron Dominique Jean Larrey, Chief Surgeon of Napoleon’s Grande Army, wrote in his memoirs of the Russian winter campaign (1812-13): “Persons were seen to fall dead at the fires of the bivouacs. Those who approached the fires sufficiently near to warm frozen feet and hands, were attacked by gangrene, in all points, where the vital powers had been reduced...The projecting parts of the body, grown insensible or being frozen and remote from the centre of circulation, were attacked with gangrene which manifested itself at the same moment, and was developed with such rapidity, that its progress was susceptible to the eye.” Dr. Macklin noted that “too much great heat is bad. The circulation must be coaxed back gently.” Obviously, open flames should be avoided, advice not followed in one instance by John Robert Francis “Frank” Wild, second in command during the 1921-22 ShackletonRowett Expedition. With his fingers, “to bring back the circulation he put them over the lighted Primus, a terrible thing to do. As a result he was in agony.” Water bath immersion is the definitive first step in frostbite management, as long as the extremity can be kept from refreezing. If definitive treatment will be available within two hours, however, a hasty evacuation is preferred because water bath immersion is cumbersome and can be dangerous if not properly performed. Water should be heated to 98.6-102.2F (37-39C) and maintained using a thermometer and heat source. In the absence of a thermometer, a helper with non-frostbitten hands (intact sensation) can estimate the appropriate temperature by holding his/her hand in the water for 30 seconds, confirming that it will not cause burns. Circulate the warm water around the frozen extremity and carefully warm the water as needed. Timeto-thaw will vary, but after approximately 30 minutes, the extremity should take on a reddish-purple appearance and become soft again. At this time it should be air-dried or gently blotted dry. If water bath immersion is not possible and refreezing can be prevented, spontaneous/passive rewarming, which utilizes one’s own or

another’s body heat, is a reasonable course of action. As Shackleton wrote on January 8, 1909: “Every now and then one of our party’s feet go, and the unfortunate beggar has to take his leg out of his sleeping bag and have his frozen foot nursed into life again by placing it inside the shirt, against the skin of his almost equally unfortunate neighbor.” Once thawed and dried, a topical antiseptic solution theoretically reduces the skin’s bacterial count. However, infection rarely sets in if the extremity is thawed and cared for properly. Some current evidence weakly supports the application of topical aloe vera, which may decrease the amount of inflammation occurring at the skin’s surface. The risks of using aloe vera are low. If it is available, it should be applied. No research indicates what to do with blisters, but if they’re tense and at risk of rupture during evacuation, or if they limit a joint’s mobility, needle aspiration may minimize infection, maximize mobility, and prevent a wet, soggy dressing. Blood-filled blisters should not be aspirated or debrided in the field, as they may indicate deeper injury and are at increased risk for infection (in the laboratory, bacteria grow extremely well in blood-filled petri dishes). A bulky, loose, dry dressing should be applied around the extremity and in between the digits, if possible, for protection. Ensure the dressings do not compromise circulation. Try to keep the extremity elevated above the heart to reduce swelling, as some degree of swelling is imminent. Pain medications such as ibuprofen (Motrin), acetaminophen (Tylenol), or opiates can be used as needed. Antibiotics are not recommended and should be saved for frostbite that occurs in conjunction with penetrating trauma, or for cases that develop signs of infection. All skin wounds are prone to tetanus, and if prophylaxis wasn’t ensured prior to the expedition’s departure (shame-shame on the expedition’s physician!), it should be administered according to standard guidelines. Of course, even the best first-aid treatment is no substitute for a second opinion from your expedition’s physician or appropriately qualified medical personnel.

& Co whisky and bottle, which supposedly tastes very, very similar to that consumed by Shackleton in 1907. While I can’t recommend consuming whisky to prevent or treat frostbite, I can recommend sharing a flask to ease the suffering should your frozen foot require thawing inside the shirt, against the skin of your almost equally unfortunate neighbor. Finally, while Shackleton’s whisky didn’t deteriorate after 100 years of frostbite, your body will not be so resilient. Avoid refreezing a frostbite injury and by all means, don’t serve it on the rocks...Doctor’s orders!

Resources WebMD’s Frostbite Guide: webmd.com/a-to-z-guides/frostbite CDC’s Frostbite Guide: emergency.cdc.gov/disasters/winter/staysafe/frostbite.asp Shackleton’s Wiskey: drinkupny.com/shackleton_whisky_p/s0983.htm

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Shackleton, on the Rocks

Frostbite did nothing to preserve Shackleton’s once youthful appearance, but it did preserve one thing—his whisky. In 1907, his Nimrod Expedition brought 25 cases, and frequently passed the bottle for celebratory events. Fortunately, for reasons I can’t comprehend, not all the whisky was consumed. A frostbitten stash of Chas Mackinlay & Co was exhumed in February 2007 from underneath Shackleton’s hut on Ross Island. Under lock and key, three bottles traveled to Scotland, where they were tasted and scientifically analyzed by Mackinlay’s current owner, Whyte & Mackay. After using a needle and syringe to remove a sample through the bottle’s cork, Master Distiller Robert Paterson braced himself for a freezer burned and unpalatable moment of mouth sluicing, but was, instead, suddenly elated. “It’s showing you a bouquet of fruit…crushed apples, peaches, hints of cinnamon, toffee, caramel, notes of sherry wood. But bloody hell, where’s the peat?” The whisky was “elegant and light, like a beautiful woman…This is a whisky with great charm, just like Shackleton, a great shagger of the ladies!” Scientists and tasters believe the whisky is single malt, made from Loch Ness water, Orkney Island peat, and sherry casks of American white oak. Today, for a cool $160 (£100), you can order a specially blended Chas Mackinlay Overland Journal Winter 2012

Overland Chef

Zach Berning

Cream of Mushroom Soup You don’t need to be a mycologist to love fungi. Try a few in your next bowl of soup.

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Cream of Mushroom Soup

Serves: 2 | Cook time: 20-25 minutes Equipment: Medium sauté pan, mixing bowl, measuring cups 10 Baby Bella mushrooms, sliced ½ red onion, diced 5 garlic cloves, minced or pressed 2 cups heavy cream 1 cup chicken stock

¼ stick butter 2 teaspoons cornstarch salt and pepper (to taste) chives, chopped as an optional garnish

The thought of making a soup scares most people, especially doing so while camping. Go ahead and ask yourself—when was the last time you made soup? We’re not talking about the heat-n-serve, red-andwhite label type, but rather a homemade variety, from scratch, using fresh ingredients. The hearty type you grew up eating. Making soup is a lot easier than you’d think. Soup is a great way to incorporate fresh, regional vegetables and local herbs and spices into your travel cuisine. It is also ideal for planning meals in advance, or served as leftovers for lunch. You can alter soup to cater to your personalized tastes. Love onions and garlic? Simply add more. Do you enjoy a thick and hearty soup? Not a problem, the only limitation is your imagination. Next time you are in the backcountry, try making a delectable Cream of Mushroom. This soup works well by itself, when served over potatoes, or in a bread bowl—the possibilities are endless.

Rinse mushrooms, remove stems, slice and set aside. Next, cut onion into small pieces and set aside. Peel garlic cloves and thinly slice or press with a garlic press. In a small- to medium-sized pan, add garlic, onions, and butter, and sauté over medium heat until caramelized or a nice golden brown. Add your Baby Bella mushrooms and cook for another five minutes, or until the mushrooms are soft.

Main course ~ Fresh green salad Beverage ~ Mushroom soup, sourdough bread Dessert ~ White wine or sparkling cider

Add heavy cream and chicken stock, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook for an additional 10 to 15 minutes. Be sure to avoid letting the cream go into a hard boil. During this process you can add more chicken stock or heavy cream if desired, however keep in mind we’re going to thicken the soup in the next step.

it develops a milk-like consistency. Slowly add to your soup, one spoonful at a time, while constantly stirring. Continue until your culinary delight reaches desired consistency and remove from heat. Add salt and fresh cracked pepper to taste, and freshly chopped chives or complimentary herbs for color and aroma.

You can substitute other thickeners, but cornstarch is pretty easy. The key is NOT to put the cornstarch directly into the soup. In a small bowl, add two teaspoons of cornstarch and a small amount of cool water. Mix until

Zach Berning runs Overland Gourmet, a website dedicated to gourmet cooking in the field: overlandgourmet.com, 855-746-7684

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Classic Kit

Chris Collard

The Hi-Lift Images courtesy of Bloomfield Manufacturing

The World’s Favorite Jack of All Trades.

Phillip John Harrah, founder of the Bloomfield Manufacturing Company, invented the Automatic A-B-C Combination Tool in 1905. It originally retailed for $3.95.

t is the unsung hero of expedition travel, an essential piece of kit that any mindful backcountry regular carries. If they don’t, they should. It is often fitted to a roof rack and left to the elements, or bolted to a bumper, only to be augured into the mud and snow, or sandblasted by desert winds. In short, it is the forsaken recipient of abuse and neglect. Until, that is, the moment it is needed. Released from its chains, bolts, or bungee cord incarceration, it receives a few hard knocks against terra firma to shake off its “rough spell” on your bumper, then a squirt of WD-40 and a few cycles of its handle. Without retort, it stands rigidly and steps up to whatever hell you’ve tasked it with—say, lifting a 4,000-pound vehicle, pressing a ujoint in place, or pulling out a fence post. And it performs flawlessly. The “it” we are referring to is the Jack of all Trades, the Hi-Lift.

History

With roots dating back more than a century—to 1905, a time before the internal combustion engine had fully transformed the world— the Hi-Lift, originally known as the Automatic A-B-C Combination Tool, has become an integral part of the overlanding landscape. In the 19th Century, heavy lifting of farm equipment and wagons was an arduous task with few modern mechanical options. There were various leverage-arm lifting devices, but nothing that could be hand-carried to a site and raise a cart or wagon with ease. Phillip John Harrah, who was orphaned at age three and adopted by Capt. James B. Harrah, became an ardent inventor at a young age. An admirer of Thomas Edison, he spent his days (between jobs as a washing machine salesman and a schoolteacher) sketching and creatOverland Journal Winter 2012

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In the early days of the horseless carriage, before the invention of vehicle-mounted electric winches, the Automatic Combination Tool was standard equipment for adventurous travelers. Opposite: More than a century of Hi-Lift history.

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ing machines that would make life easier. A few such inventions were the Universal Repair Machine (an anvil-vise-drill tool) and a unique seven-use tool that included a hammer, hatchet, wire cutters, and pliers. In 1895 he formed the Bloomfield Manufacturing Company with partner Oscar Shryer. It would be just a few years before his concept of a multi-use tool for lifting, pulling, and pressing—the Automatic A-B-C Combination Tool—came to fruition. It became the utility tool of the decade, and was utilized for stretching barbed wire fences, holding boards in place for cutting, and changing wagon wheels. As the “horseless carriage” trend swept the nation, the A-B-C Tool became a highly sought-after piece of equipment for tire-repair shops. With just a few cycles of the handle, a vehicle could be lifted and a damaged tire easily removed. In the 1910s it underwent several redesigns, and in 1919 became known as the Handyman Jack. In 1917, when the United States entered World War I, the soon-to-be Handyman accompanied U.S. troops overseas. After the war, with the Roaring 20s underway, a prosperous economy put automobiles in the hands of swelling ranks of middleclass Americans. The concept of four-wheel drive was present, but there were very few working models. Nonetheless, America, and the world, took to the road in record numbers. Many understood the utility of the Handyman and it soon became a standard trunk ornament for adventurous over-the-road drivers. Phillip Harrah’s company had attained national status; it was a good era for Bloomfield Manufacturing. Overland Journal Winter 2012

Following his father’s family practice, Phillip Harrah adopted a son, Chester (C.P. Harrah) who would eventually take the reins. Upon the onset of the Second World War, the Handyman was again heading to Europe with American troops. According to Austin Harrah, fifth-generation in the Harrah lineage, the Handyman accompanied Allied Troops on the D-Day invasion at Normandy. It also provided support to American troops during campaigns in Africa and the South Pacific.

Standard Overland Kit

In 1963, the Handyman underwent a major redesign. With refinements to every component, increased load capacity, and the addition of a metal handle, the Hi-Lift, as we know it today, was born. Though it had always been a reliable tool for auto enthusiasts, the “new” HiLift would soon become a staple piece of kit for the overland traveler. When Mark Smith, founding father of the Jeepers Jamboree, prepared for Expedición de las Americas in 1978 (which would include the first unsupported crossing of the Darién Gap between Colombia and Panama), he made sure each of his expedition Jeeps were fitted with a Hi-Lift. “We used them in the Darién and they were very, very handy. We were in all types of terrain and needed them for many uses. The most common was changing damaged tires—a very valuable tool. Our Hi-Lift jacks, along with the Ramsey winches and [bridging] ladders made the expedition possible.”

There have been a dozen redesigns of the Automatic Combination Tool during the past century, yet the general premise remains: a multi-purpose tool for lifting, pulling, and clamping. 2006

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In the 1980s, Camel Trophy organizers found the Hi-Lift to be an indispensable piece of equipment. Tom Collins, a competitor in the 1988 event and U.S. Team Coordinator from 1990 to 1998, offered nothing but praise for the silent hero of the Camel Trophy. “We were in Madagascar, and for one of the tasks they backed the Land Rovers into the ocean and spun the tires until they were buried in the sand. We used the Hi-Lift jack to get them out and ended up winning the event. The way we did it was to place a couple of sand tracks in the back as a base. We put the Hi-Lift in the receiver, where the pintle would go, jacked up the vehicle, filled in the holes, and put down more sand tracks under the tires. It worked really well,” Collins said. “Another good use is getting a vehicle out of a trench. On that same Madagascar event there was a long section of muddy trenches and every once in a while we’d slide into one. By raising the car out of the trench, we could get to one side and push it over onto solid ground.” Collins continued, “I started with Camel Trophy in 1988 and we used the Hi-Lift in every year I was involved.” Gary and Monika Wescott have been exploring the far reaches of the planet for four decades in specially prepared “Turtle” vehicles. Under the guise of the Turtle Expedition, the duo has crossed every continent, save Antarctica. In the process they’ve managed to get stuck (a lot) in varying conditions in dozens of countries. Gary says, “When I say ‘stuck,’ what that means is, leave the keys in the ignition and walk away…no one is going to steal it. As for the Hi-Lift, I would have to say that I’ve always carried one and always will carry one. I’ve used it so many different times in so many different ways: as a winch, a clamp, a hoist, and a number of other things. I use it with the Jack Mate from Rescue 42. The combination of the two has many functions. When we crossed Siberia [in 1996] we were probably stuck at least nine times, sometimes in mud, sometimes in snow, sometimes in sand. There were only three or four times where we could actually hook a winch cable to something. With the Hi-Lift under a bumper we could raise the truck, build a road underneath it, and set it back down. It saved an incredible amount of digging.”

Still an American Original

There have been a dozen redesigns of the Automatic Combination Tool during the past century, yet the general premise remains: a multi-

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purpose tool for lifting, pulling, and clamping. Several companies have done very well by creating handy accessories for the Hi-Lift. Yet others, as early as the 1920s, tried to sneak under the radar with cheap knockoffs or the inappropriate use of the name—for which Hi-Lift has had to chase them down in court. Bloomfield Manufacturing’s old brick building still stands on West Spring Street in Bloomfield, Indiana, and it still produces most Hi-Lift components. Austin said, “Back in the day, we were 100 percent U.S. made. Our foundry dropped us in 1991. Apparently our contract was too small. We were able to find a high-quality foundry in Taiwan and some of our parts are now made there. We’re still American built and most of our parts are made here. Currently we have 44 employees locally and 150 sales representatives worldwide. We’re a tightknit company and most of us live within a few blocks of the shop.” Next time you’re in the backcountry and want to put your hands on a piece of American history, release your Hi-Lift from its lonely mounting point. Feel its robust construction and solid components. Give it a shot of WD-40 and cycle the handle a few times. Think about the 100-plus countries where this 45-pound hero has been used, about our boys in WWI raising a piece of field artillary and our troops in WWII lifting a Willys MB to change a tire. Consider the Wescotts in their Turtle Expedition exploits; Camel Trophy Land Rovers in Borneo, Belize, and Madagascar; and Mark Smith’s team crossing the Darién Gap. We’ve come to take our old pal Hi-Lift for granted. When we get stuck, need to change a tire, or clamp a broken steering box on a frame, we reach for it. To dislodge remnants of its “rough spell” on our bumper or roof rack, we unceremoniously beat it on a rock to “loosen it up.” We then expect it to perform at first prompt, regardless of terrain, weather, or task. And it does—it’s a Hi-Lift.

Resources

Hi-Lift: hi-lift.com, 800-233-2051 Turtle Expedition: turtleexpedition.com Mark A. Smith: jeepjamboreeusa.com Overland Journal Winter 2012

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My heart was pounding in my chest at the thought of our large, sea-going vessel being

tossed around in a swath of the North Atlantic known as Iceberg Alley.

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Out of the salty darkness came a holler, “Sue, over here!” Barely audible over the sound of the wind and crashing waves, it was the voice of Bruce Elfstrom. It was no surprise that our trip leader was on deck in the middle of the night—and actually enjoying the weather, which was apparent from his broad smile. Of Nordic heritage, Elfstrom, who owns and operates Overland Experts, is an aficionado on the subject of adventure travel. He makes a living leading four-wheel drive expeditions around the globe. A bit of a modern-day Viking, he favors annual trips to Iceland and Mongolia, as well as Copper Canyon, Mexico. He also has a 90-acre 4WD track in Southern Connecticut for training and evaluation. “We’re in a bit of a storm and the ship’s engine is having some problems,” Elfstrom explained. “It’s beautiful out here, isn’t it?” he added. Beautiful, I had to agree. It wasn’t that I was enjoying the choppy seas, but I was in the midst of yet another great adventure. The 14-day trip, dubbed OEXBYOVEXPNA (short for Overland Expert’s Bring Your Own Vehicle Expeditions-North America) had begun in Quebec, passing through Labrador, land of the Inuit, and tracing the history of the Vikings in Newfoundland. Not a poseur or a Sundayafternoon enthusiast, Elfstrom holds instructor-level certifications for Land Rovers, as well as all other 4WD vehicles in England and the U.S. He trains students of all experience levels, but what he really loves are trips like this one; a venue that includes plenty of out-of-the-way trails, an opportunity to study local history, and the chance to participate in a community-service project along the way. Earlier that evening we had driven our vehicles onto the ferry. While a few members of the group managed vehicle maintenance in the belly of the ship, the remainder of us stood on the ship’s deck waving goodbye to our local guide in Goose Bay, Labrador. Casting off under calm conditions, we motored east by northeast. Passing through the straits by Rigolet and the Hamilton Inlet, we watched as the early evening light painted its rose and tangerine shadows over Lake Melville and the rugged Mealy Mountains. After a week of traveling together and more than a few 4WD adventures, the cement that turns a motley collective of people into a team had cured firmly. While in Goose Bay we met with a local expert on the Inuit culture. We learned about the native peoples of Labrador,

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visited a gallery and museum with Inuit artifacts and artwork, and, of course, spent an afternoon traversing a fairly technical local track. The evening was topped off with caribou stew and moose burgers. A second day was consumed by volunteering on a community-service project for the Community Youth Summer Camp. Following our rough night on the M/V Sir Robert Bond, we arrived in the picturesque fishing village of Blanc Sablon, Newfoundland, where we spent the day in restful exploration. That evening we boarded a second ship, the M/V Apollo, bound for St. Barbe. Motoring on calmer seas, we watched the sun’s light turn icebergs to an opalescent blue and delighted in witnessing whales and various fish species from the bow. We were en route to L’Anse aux Meadows, the first Viking settlement in North America—now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our tired bodies came to rest in a Viking long house, sleeping on sheep skins laid atop wooden planks. Guides tended a fire through the night, cooking venison and bannock bread in traditional fashion. The next day’s drive found us in Gros Morne National Park, another of the region’s majestic World Heritage Sites. Here, local guides took us deep into the mountains, to a private lodge in western Newfoundland. Far from the pavement, we enjoyed traversing yet another track into the backcountry. As evening settled slowly between the ridges, reflecting off the mirrored surface of a clear mountain lake, some took the opportunity to cast a fly line. Others sat on the deck sharing tales of past exploits. The adventure came to a close three days later, on a ferry from Nova Scotia to Bar Harbor, Maine. This day, the seas were calm. The ride, though smooth, was bittersweet—like the last days of autumn, a season coming to a close. We had become a melded group, bonded by our time together and our zest for journeys. I couldn’t forget the unique cultures of the Inuit of Labrador, nor the history of the Vikings of Newfoundland. I felt privileged to be able to explore these lands, the areas beyond everyday roads. I smiled warmly at the newly stored memories: I could almost smell the heavy scent of diesel fuel; I could still feel the prick of fear as the M/V Sir Robert Bond tossed about on the frigid waters of Iceberg Alley; and I would savor forever Elfstrom’s comment as I joined him on that salty, wind-whipped deck, “It’s beautiful out here, isn’t it?” Indeed it was.

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Sue Mead

Photo by Chris Collard

Tail Lamp

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Iceberg Alley The Land of Icebergs, Caribou, and Vikings.

onsciousness came slowly, like the clearing of vision through a dense fog. My body was being tossed from side to side and there was something hard protruding into my rib cage. A dream? “Must be a dream,” I thought out loud. Scanning the darkness, my eyes came to rest on a small amber light in a wired cage, which cast an eerie glow on a white safety ring bearing a red cross and hanging by a length of yellow rope on a wooden wall. Maneuvering flat onto my back, I dislodged the object and realized I was on a hard plank bunk, cocooned in a sleeping bag, wearing expedition-weight long underwear and wool socks. The thorn in my side was my trusty, personal emergency beacon—a Petzl headlamp. For me, the collected evidence pointed to a four-wheel drive adventure. But I wasn’t in a 4WD—though I could make out the sounds of a straining diesel motor and the air was scented with its heavy, mechanical-diesel smell. I was aboard the M/V Sir Robert Bond and in addition to the choppy seas we were navigating there was clearly some kind of engine distress. Slipping on muddied hiking boots, my headOverland Journal Winter 2012

lamp riding atop the brim of a fleece cap with earflaps and chin straps, I tried to get my land legs under me and lurched for the cabin door. Pulling back on the metal door with both hands, I was exposed to the elements and squinted at an open deck. A light rain, driven by fierce winds at close to a 45 degree angle, stung my exposed face and whipped my clothing. The bluster cast me at nearly the same angle, as I sidestepped forward to the railing to get a better view of this world in the vicinity of the 54th northern parallel. We were somewhere off the coast of Labrador. The weather precluded any chance to see stars or the Northern Lights, as our expedition itinerary had suggested, and I prayed that it didn’t preclude the ship’s captain and first mate from seeing icebergs in the surrounding sea. Dim lights illuminated the narrow hallway as I ambulated in drunken-sailor fashion toward the upper deck. My heart was pounding in my chest at the thought of our large, sea-going vessel being tossed around in a swath of the North Atlantic known as Iceberg Alley. Fear prickled my sweaty palms. Continued on page 126

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adventure