Overland Journal :: Spring 2013 by Overland Journal

Spring 2013 $12

Pyrenees Expedition

Sleeping Pad Comparison

The Burr Trail

Welding Skills

Overland Journal Spring 2013

CONTENTS

Spring 2013

Feature s 36

Smugglers’ Pass: Crossing the Pyrenees, Ros Woodham

Sleeping Pad Comparison, Christophe Noel

Two Wheels to Adventure: The Americas by BMW in 1959, Lois Pryce

Under the Star-Sprinkled Sky: Southern Utah, Scott Brady

101

No Batteries Needed: Hand-powered Lights and Radios, Jeff Skelley

107

2014 Grand Cherokee, Scott Brady

Dep artments

Overland Post

Editor’s Column

Publisher’s Column

News from the Trade

Overland News

Latitude

113

Overland Conservation, Alice Gugelev

114

Overland Medicine: Allergic Reactions, Dr. Jon Solberg

119

Skills: Welding, Chris Collard

128

Overland Chef: Cast Iron Baked Bread, Åsa Björklund

131

Classic Kit: Dutch Ovens, Christophe Noel

136

Tail Lamp: Walking on the Wild Side, Pablo Rey On the cover: The winches became our lifeline on the cambered slopes in the Andorran Pyrenees. Photo by Ros Woodham. This photo: Our Editor-in-Chief joins the crew from Premier Power Welder for this issue’s Skills feature, Field Welding 101. Photograph by Chris Collard. Back cover: Inferno Cone, Craters of the Moon National Park, near Arco, Idaho. Photo by Jennifer Coogan.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

We are adventurers. Constantly traveling. Testing and using gear in real-world situations. Gaining experience, which we freely share.

OUR RESUME:

7 continents 139 countries 304 years combined experience and counting...

Experience Matters We only know things when we live them

Spring 2013

Publisher and Chairman Scott Brady President and Director of Design Stephanie Brady Editor-in-Chief Chris Collard Chief Operations Officer Ray Hyland Chief Technology Officer Christian Pelletier Senior Technical Editor Graham Jackson Technical Editors Christophe Noel, James Langan Conservation Editor Alice Gugelev Medical Editor Dr. Jon Solberg Contributing Editors Tom Collins, Brian DeArmon, Jack Dykinga, Jeff Foott, Sue Mead, Andrew Moore, Lois Pryce, Pablo Rey, Toby Savage, Chris Scott, Matthew Scott, Jeff Skelley, Tom Sheppard, Gary and Monika Wescott, Ros Woodham Staff Editor Åsa Björklund Editor-at-Large Jeremy Edgar Copy Editors Denise-Christine, Tena Overacker, Marianne Hyland Cartographer David Medeiros Graphic Designer Chazz Layne Senior Photographer Sinuhe Xavier Senior Photographer, North America Ben Edmonson Senior Photographer, South America Jorge Valdés Photographers-at-Large Barry Andrews, Bruce Dorn, Brian Slobe Director of Business Development Brian McVickers Executive Assistant Kelsey McLaren Fulfillment Bo Rounsavall Contact Overland Journal, 3035 N Tarra Ave, #1, Prescott, AZ 86301 service@overlandjournal.com, editor@overlandjournal.com, advertising@overlandjournal.com Moving? Send address changes to service@overlandjournal.com. Include complete old address as well as new address. Allow two to four weeks for address change to become effective. Overland Journal is a trademark of Overland International Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Overland Journal is a wholly owned subsidiary of Overland International. overlandjournal.com

Our promise to you

No Compromise

We carefully screen all contributors to ensure they are independent and impartial. We never have and never will accept advertorial, and we do not allow advertising to influence our product or destination reviews.

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OverlandPost Worth Having

Photo by Bryan Scott

Mr. Langan, I wanted to congratulate you on the welldone article in the Overland Journal issue that came yesterday [Gear issue]. It was the type of article [ground tents] that makes the Journal worth having, and I’m proud to know the author. I hope they give you the opportunity to do more like it. Mike Hiscox 2007 Jeep Wrangler, Rubicon-based expedition motorhome

Borderline Pathetic I’m sorry to say that I will not be renewing my subscription. Your magazine has gone from possibly the best publication in the world to just another overpriced magazine with a bunch of filler wrapped around one or two good articles. The last five issues have been borderline pathetic. Every person I know reads your magazine and every single one of them agrees it’s going downhill fast (started right around the time you started selling them in book stores and raised the price of each issue by $2, coincidence?). It will be unfortunate for me if for some reason you’re able to bring it back to the standards it once was because I don’t feel like wasting any more money to find out if that is possible. It’s too bad, too; there are a lot of hardcore overlanders up here in northern British Columbia that have never heard of your publication and possibly never will. Thank you for all the good issues though, I reference them all the time.

Ryan Hannigan 2008 JK Rubicon Write us a note

attention: Overland Post editor@overlandjournal.com 3035 N Tarra Ave, #1 Prescott, AZ 86301

Include your name, address, email address, daytime phone number, and the year and make of your vehicle. Letters may be edited for length and clarity.

Where in the world has your Overland Journal been? Send us a photo, along with your name, the location, and a brief description.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Byron Dorr, “Super” Jen Wantland, and Karma the Wonderdog during a volunteer week with the Muskoka Foundation prior to the Maya Rally. Guanajuato, Mexico.

Mañana Time

I have been an avid reader for several years now and I just wanted to say how much I enjoy the magazine. I used to subscribe to an Australian 4WD magazine, but found it rather repetitive after a while. When my wife became pregnant with our first child, she got me a present of a subscription to Overland Journal. Good value, great articles, less in your face type stories and advertising. And the best part, stories of more local trips (not all, since Africa is mentioned a lot). I have also been a reader of yours [Chris Collard] for a few years as well. The story I best remember is one where you mention “mañana time” when you first installed your Donahoe suspension. I was worried about Jonathan Hanson stepping back because I have enjoyed his reviews and articles more than most that I have read, but I am pleased with how things have turned out. Thanks for putting out a terrific magazine. Dan McLean 2000 Toyota 4Runner, 1952 M38A1

Connect Share Become a fan on Facebook to communicate with us and other readers and get up-to-date information on what we’re up to, the latest trips, and newest gear.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Contributors

Spring 2013

Pablo Rey

Jeff Skelley

Pablo was born in Buenos Aires, Argentina. He moved to Spain in 1992, where he enjoyed an extraordinary life…but just on weekends. In 1999, during a trip thru Africa, he committed never to buy a return ticket again. Shortly after, he moved into a 1991 Mitsubishi L300 4WD with Anna Callau, his adventure partner. The goal: overland during four years thru Africa, America and Asia while making as many turns as possible. After 50 countries and 11 years, they’re still on the road—it seems they have succeeded. Pablo is an “ex” creative ad writer, “ex” illegal immigrant, and a master of getting into trouble in faraway places. His web page, www.viajeros4x4x4.com has become a source for Hispanic travelers and overlanders. His latest book, Around the World in 10 Years: The Independence Book, is now available in English.

Jeff has been exploring on land, sea, and air since he rode his BSA motorcycle out of his New Jersey driveway at 16 years old heading off alone to California. His erratic trajectory has led him to discover the joys of the sea as captain of his 1924 72’ Alden schooner, SCUBA Divemaster, and underwater photographer; the skies as a private pilot and back roads wherever he finds them. His work has appeared in numerous publications and his award-winning western bronzes grace many an American home. Having spent decades as a photographer, filmmaker, writer, and explorer, he has adopted a hands-on approach to living. He says, “Today there are so many ways to experience virtual reality, I’m glad that I grew up when I did. If it moves and I can grip a hold of it, I’m interested.”

Christophe Noel

Lois Pryce

Christophe Noel has been an avid backcountry traveler since he was too young to tie his own stitch-down hiking boots. As his feet have grown, so has his appetite for adventure. While bicycles are his passion, Christophe is an accomplished sea kayaker, backpacker, mountaineer and general vagabond. Having spent much of his life wandering the globe from Alaska to the Atlas Mountains and beyond, Christophe can now be found most days riding his mountain bike on the twisted single-track near his home in Prescott, Arizona.

Weary of the daily grind in jargon-infested London media-land, Lois Pryce jacked in her job at the BBC to ride from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego astride her Yamaha XT225. Upon her return she wrote the book of this trip, Lois on the Loose, which was published in the U.S. and the U.K., as well as being translated into German and Dutch. Itchy wheels struck again and it wasn’t long before she was poring over maps of Africa, plotting another adventure. In October 2006 she set off on a Yamaha TTR250 to ride from London to Cape Town, crossing the Sahara through Algeria and Niger, and continuing down the west coast through the Congo and Angola to South Africa. The tale of this trip is captured in her book Red Tape and White Knuckles. Lois lives on a Dutch barge in London with her husband, fellow motorcycle adventurer Austin Vince.

Ros Woodham Ros Woodham is a freelance designer and photographer from London. She now resides in Dénia, Spain where making music has become a large part of her life. Regular expeditions to the Pyrénées and Northern Norway with U.K. based adventure company, Mudrut, satisfies her need for adventure. A Series III Spanish Land Rover, rescued from a scrap yard in Andalucía, has been her daily driver since moving to Spain in 2006. Overland Journal Spring 2013

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Subscribe overlandjournal.com Subscriptions and Back Issues Payment must accompany all orders. 5 issues/year, online at overlandjournal.com or 3035 N Tarra Ave, #1, Prescott, AZ 86301 Domestic & Canada (USD) 1 year $45, 2 years $80, 3 years $112 Back issues $17 (includes postage & handling) International (USD) 1 year $75, 2 years $140, 3 years $202 Back issues $22 (includes postage & handling) The publication for environmentally responsible, worldwide vehicle-supported expedition and adventure travel.

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Journal Entry: From the Editor

Chris Collard

Evolution

If not for all of you,

only the Wall Street mega corporations could afford to start new magazines.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

This Spring issue marks my two-year anniversary as Editor-in-Chief. In my opinion, founding editor Jonathan Hanson did an outstanding job in developing the voice of the magazine and guiding it towards what it is today. His were tough boots to fill, and I had my reservations on whether you, our subscribers, would accept the new guy. Since that time we’ve added new sections like Living Legends, Adventure Reads, and Inspiration, and started bringing you select new-vehicle offerings. As I write this, Publisher Scott Brady is in Texas driving the 2014 diesel Jeep Grand Cherokee. This year we’ll be adding another new section, a subscriber-generated resource guide on North American overland treks you can manage in a two- or three-day time frame. While not every letter to the editor has been graced with praise, I’m pleased to say the message is usually positive. Our subscriber base has grown more than 50 percent in the past 24 months, we are now on the racks of premium bookstores in the U.S. and Canada, and a digital version is in the works. We began in 2007 as a 96-page journal, expanding to 104 and then 128 pages. Because most of our subscribers, myself included, keep each issue on a bookshelf for future reference, in 2011 we invested in the best archival-quality paper and ink available. In our quest to provide you with increasing value for your hardearned investment, beginning with this issue we are bumping our page count again, now to 136. This will allow us to expand our content without detracting from our trademark full-length adventure stories, and maintain our promise of no more than 30 percent ad pages. We are a small, tightknit family, unburdened by layers of corporate shenanigans, and can make these decisions over a cup of coffee. It’s an environment that suits me. Having said this, I’d like to welcome our newest members to the overland family. They are the 800 or so subscribers of Outrider Journal, a high quality, coffee table-style publication that began in 2012. Jason Black, Publisher and Editor, though he put his heart and soul into the project, watched his dream slip away to the annals of history. In the process, one of his heaviest burdens was that he felt that he had let his subscribers down; charter subscribers who in blind faith dropped their cash on the table for an upstart magazine. In our first year, Overland Journal could have easily succumbed to the same fate. But our founders hunkered down, promoted the magazine like crazy, worked like dogs, and were blessed with a bit of luck. Our charter subscribers and advertisers were the sole reason we survived. We pay tribute to each of them, as well as to Outrider’s charter members. If not for all of you, only the Wall Street mega corporations could afford to start new magazines. Keeping it in the family, we will be honoring the remainder of all Outrider Journal subscriptions. If you already subscribe to Overland Journal, we’ll extend your subscription accordingly. My first two years at the helm have been wonderful. I’d never run a magazine, let alone one with Overland Journal’s international exposure (I called it the “earn while you learn program”). I’ve met some of the most inspirational travelers, people whose lifestyles I aspire to, and have been able to continue to feed my passion for extended international treks. While many have suggested we expand to monthly distribution, I believe this would detract from the nature of the magazine (I’d rather bump the page count to 200). We are about adventure travel in remote places, and this type of travel takes time. If we were a monthly, I believe our staff would be so consumed with cranking out each issue that we’d lose touch with what we’re really about. Lastly, if you have an overland route in your neck of the woods you would like to share, send me an email. In the meantime, stay to the distant two-track and don’t let too much dust settle on your maps.

BEHIND THE WHEEL: Publisher's Column

Scott Brady

The Modern Explorer Determined to vet the reliability and performance of a modern Land Rover, Overland Journal secures a 2012 LR4 and modifies it for serious exploration.

verland Journal’s first project vehicle was a 1995 Land Rover Discovery I, a vehicle that has been well used and loved since this publication’s inception. Like many Land Rover owners, I believed the Golden Age of the brand ended when the last 2004 Discovery II was sold in North America. The newer models had independent front and rear suspensions and an even greater dependence on computer-controlled systems—electronics were never one of Land

Project Plan

• Body protection, self-recovery, and relocation of the spare tire • Suspension, tires, and trail equipment • Storage and camp systems Overland Journal Spring 2013

Rover’s strengths. I had resolved to keep my Discovery I functioning as long as possible, at least until the ROW Defenders could be imported under the 25-year rule. I was resigned that the legacy of Land Rover was all that remained. As time passed, even the most ardent of Land Rover purists began to see the performance and reliability advantages of the new platforms. It was easy to like the new Range Rover MKIII (L322), as it was so much better than the previous generation, the P38. But the 2005 LR3 was infringing on hallowed territory, sending the last of the solid axle, body-on-frame Discoverys into the history books. For Land Rover enthusiasts, the real and virtual campfire conversations exploded with venom, but the reality was that none of the critics had driven an LR3, or even seen one on the trail. My first aha moment came in

2007 at the Land Rover National Rally when I watched a stock LR3 on balding tires effortlessly descend and climb White Knuckle Hill in Moab. I remember thinking, “maybe there is something to these new trucks.” But I reserved judgment, concerned about the reliability and durability of these newfangled computers on wheels. Fast-forward to 2011 and a visit to Land Rover Las Vegas. While touring their facility, general manager, Ray Dinardi, mentioned a fact that completely changed my outlook on the new Land Rovers as potential exploration platforms. We were standing in the shop and I was surprised at how few vehicles were in the service bays; just the odd Range Rover P38, or vehicle in for a scheduled oil change. Ray said, “We used to have 25 service techs in a dozen bays. In fact, we used to rent off-site facilities to keep

up with all the warranty and service work. Now, we have only five techs and I use the extra bays to store my motorcycles.” I was shocked by that revelation. If we use simple calculations, reliability had improved by 200 percent in less than five years. But the fact was that reliability had improved much more, as Land Rover Las Vegas’ volume over the same period had increased by 30 percent. The LR3 was not only capable, but had proven itself significantly more reliable than previous-generation North American specification Discoveries. Armed with the realization that these new Land Rovers appeared promising from the outside looking in, it was time to arrange some extended seat time in the field, to validate the assumptions, positive or negative. The first trip was a multi-week exploration of the Australian deserts in a 2008 Discovery 3. It was outfitted with a modest but functional set of accessories, including upgraded tires, an ARB front bumper, and a Kaymar rear. After thousands of kilometers and some reasonably challenging tracks, the LR3 had performed without failure—not even a flat. My return from Australia coincided with Stephanie’s (Overland Journal’s Director of Design and my wife of 20 years) need for a new car. After reviewing dozens of models, her final choice was a Range Rover MKIII, and I soon had a unibody, independentsuspension Land Rover in the driveway. Not only did hell not freeze over, but the car was brilliant, and I began making plans for my own modern Land Rover. Was I slowly becoming a believer? Without further adieu, I would like to introduce Overland Journal’s latest Land Rover project vehicle: a 2012 LR4 fitted with a 5.0-liter V8 and modest list of options. Unfortunately, the HD package was not available at the time we acquired the vehicle. At first glance you may notice the color, silver, a notable deviation from my long-standing palette of white, white, and more white. Our goal for this project is to prove two assumptions. First, that a new LR4 can be appropriately modified for remote, long-distance

overland travel in technical environments. Second, to determine and report on the vehicle’s long-term reliability and performance.

Project Goals

Our project goals for the LR4 are to address three major vehicle systems: body protection, self-recovery, and relocation of the spare tire; suspension, tires and trail equipment; and storage and camp systems. Through the team’s travels we have determined what we feel is the best practice for vehicle modification; lean heavily on the side of reliability and simplicity, and to a slightly lesser degree toward overall design, appearance, and integration. A vehicle that is thoughtfully and tastefully modified yields a satisfaction and pride of ownership we find valuable.

A vehicle that is thoughtfully and tastefully modified yields a satisfaction and pride of ownership we find valuable.

Body Protection

With a vehicle like the LR4, protecting the expensive sheet metal becomes a priority. The goal is to install a front bumper that affords adequate animal-strike protection, and a secure mounting location for the selfrecovery winch and auxiliary lighting. It is important for me to note that a heavy bumper, winch, etc. is absolutely not required for long-distance adventure travel. However, if it is your desire to incorporate remote dirt tracks, mud, and snow, then it is worth evaluating. As with any modification, accessory, or piece of equipment, it all comes at a cost to available payload. Payload, established by the manufacturer as a load constraint, is most often defined by spring ratings, braking capacity, and other variables. General practice is to keep the vehicle’s total weight (the base curb weight combined with payload) below the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). When evaluating front bumpers, there appeared to be two options for the LR4: an ARB Bull Bar or a custom-built unit. Having used ARB bumpers for decades, I have developed an appreciation for the factory fitment and familiarity of the shape. The support uprights and headlamp guards, positioned just above the hood line, clearly define the front corners of the vehicle. ARB bumpers are also designed to operate with the safety systems

Top: The ARB bull bar compliments the style of the vehicle and affords protection from an animal strike. Middle: The aluminum Terrafirma rock sliders are strong and light. Bottom: The rear bumper on the LR4 was the most vulnerable and there was no provision for mounting an oversized spare tire. The Kaymar provides the protection and utility needed for remote exploration and we can still keep the factory spare for an emergency. The MaxTrax are critical for self-recovery with a heavy vehicle on lower profile tires (minimal flotation).

Overland Journal Spring 2013

We like the way these modifications change the appearance of the truck, more clearly defining the Land Rover’s purpose as an adventure vehicle.

of late-model vehicles, ensuring proper function of airbags. We acquired the first LR4 bumper in the U.S. To ensure compatibility with the many electronic systems (cameras, proximity sensors, etc.), we stopped by Land Rover Las Vegas to have the unit installed. Once back in the office, we removed the bumper to document all of the mounting systems and overall fitment. Prior to re-installation, we fitted a Warn 9.5xp-s winch featuring a 9,500-pound rated line pull (4,310 kg) and 100 feet of 3/8-diameter Spydura synthetic rope. Topping off the bumper is a set of Warn’s remote control 4-inch HID lights. They are activated with a wireless controller affixed to the dash, but as suggested from a fellow LR4 owner, David Marchand, we synced them to the factory wireless transmitter used for garage doors and gates—thanks David. Though we initially debated whether to install rock sliders, one of the primary goals was to test the truck in technical conditions: rocky trails, muddy ruts, slickrock ledges, etc. The primary concern was the impact to payload, so we researched available options. What we decided on was an aluminum unit produced by Terrafirma and sold by Lucky 8. The reduced mass is primarily due to the use of aluminum, but also because they are considerably shorter than other available units. This leaves a short section of the forward quarter panel unprotected, but I feel the coverage is appropriate to the application. Of note: These sliders were designed for the LR3 and did require some modification to install, Overland Journal Spring 2013

including notching for the rear air conditioning lines and a small bend to clear the suspension compressor. For the rear protection we installed the tried-and-proven Kaymar swing-out bumper, designed and tested in Australia. With considerable personal experience using their bumpers on both Land Rovers and Land Cruisers, I was reasonably confident the Kaymar unit would be what we needed. The tire mount is always the Achilles heel of these bumper systems, but Kaymar seems to have discovered the secret formula. The bumper fits in place of the factory’s plastic unit, following the existing contour. This was no easy job for the Australians, but the end result is sturdy and complimentary. Glancing at the side profile, the vehicle’s appearance and stance changed completely and I am particularly fond of how the spare tire now covers the awkward dip in the rear liftgate window. We finished off the rear with a set of four, black, MAXTRAX traction devices, which are mounted to the spare tire. While brakes have improved dramatically in recent years, so has the size of brake calipers. The LR4, with its excellent brakes (large brake rotor), requires a rather large diameter wheel, thus a lower profile tire and less flotation. A device like the MAXTRAX may come in handy to augment traction and reduce vertical load force in soft conditions like mud and sand. Overall, we are pleased with how the body armor and self-recovery tools fit to the LR4. They have enhanced protection of the vehicle’s delicate sheet metal, and added an

extra measure of safety. We also like the way these modifications change the appearance of the truck, more clearly defining the Land Rover’s purpose as an adventure vehicle. In future segments, we will review suspension changes, the fitment of 18-inch wheels and more robust tires, and camping support equipment needed for remote travel. Most importantly, we plan to test the truck at its limits, over extremely rugged and abusive tracks—to validate if these new models are a continuance of the Golden Age of Land Rover, worthy of the green oval heritage, and deserving of a place among top overland vehicle choices in North America.

Thanks

Special thanks to Land Rover Las Vegas for the assistance with installation of the bumpers. lrlv.com

Resources

ARB: arbusa.com, 866-293-9078 WARN Industries: warn.com, 800-543-9276 Terrafirma/Lucky 8: terrafirma4x4.com, (U.S.) lucky8llc.com, 716-898-8153 Land Rover: landrover.com, 800-346-3493 Kaymar: kaymar.com.au, 61-3-9739-4110, (U.S.) man-a-fre.com, 877-626-2373 MAXTRAX: maxtrax.com.au, 61-7-3260-5851, outbackproven.com, 855-629-8729

The LR4 was made for the snow and made short work of our test course, even at street pressures. For self-recovery, we mounted a 9.5 XP-S Warn winch with synthetic line.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

News from the Trade Exploring the newest gear for overlanding By Chris Collard, James Langan, and Christophe Noel

Noren Films COBDR and Butler Map $25 - $15

GrangerFX Scenic Western USA Map $10

Unless I count my two recent iPhones, I’ve owned exactly one GPS; an archaic, battery-eating Garmin 12. However, while doing the Avon tire review for this issue, where I covered a number of offpavement tracks through the Sierra Nevada, I let my Scenic Map Western USA (an iPhone app) be my sole guide. It offers self-contained vector data (no need for connectivity), can be viewed 3D or 2D, and combines elements from the USGS, U.S. Census Bureau, and Open Street Map. It can also record and play back GPX tracks, and zoom in for the smallest details. GrangerFX also offers Scenic Map for the Central and Eastern U.S., Alaska, and the Grand Canyon. Scenic Map is versatile, works as advertised, and I’m a fan. (JL) scenicmap.com

Noren Films and Touratech continue to expand their Backcountry Discovery Series of videos and maps, this time in Colorado. From Four Corners to the Wyoming border, the COBDR DVD guides you through a scenic and historic 675-mile tour of Colorado’s roads less traveled. Butler Maps’ tearresistant plastic COBDR map details points of interest, fuel stops, lodging, and campgrounds along the route. Though the film is geared toward dual-sport motorcycles, the COBDR is suitable for four-wheel drive vehicles as well. (CC) butlermaps.com, 877.379.6053, touratech-usa. com, 800.491.2926

Leatherman Glass Breaker $25 A fairly reasonable concern in overlanding circles is being trapped in an overturned or submerged vehicle. Overland Journal received a pre-production sample of Leatherman’s new Z-REX™ safety tool. It has a comfortable brass-knuckle style aluminum handle (easy for left-or right-handed use), pinky hole and thumb depression, and a razor-sharp 440C stainless steel blade. The business end of the glass breaker has a “one-strike” tungsten-carbide tip. The belt cutter can halve a seatbelt with one assertive stroke (Note: Always face the blade away from your body—even if you’re in a big hurry). (CC) leatherman.com, 503-253-7826

Drift Innovation’s HD Ghost $399

The HD Ghost is the latest offering from Point of View (POV) camera experts, Drift Innovations. Besides shooting in full 1080p high definition, this little gem also takes brilliant 11 megapixel stills through its replaceable rotating lens. Unlike other POV cameras, the HD Ghost has a 10x digital zoom and an integrated 2-inch LCD screen to manage settings and aid setup and playback. It also has a two-way remote to indicate recording status. The lithium-ion battery has an exceptional three-hour lifespan, and the 32GB memory card capacity ensures interruption-free shooting. It accepts a number of optional accessories and has a comprehensive array of mounting solutions. The HD Ghost is waterproof to depths of 9 feet, can record in Flashback mode, and weighs a scant 5.7 ounces (167 grams). (CN) driftinnovation.com

Overland Journal Spring 2013

News from the Trade Exploring the newest gear for overlanding

REV’IT Phantom GTX Glove $199

Fits like a glove. Cliché as the saying is, finding the perfect motorcycle glove is never easy. Dutch motorcycle apparel manufacturer REV’IT aspires to change that with their Phantom GTX. Feature rich, with hard-shelled knuckles, PU finger guards, visor wiper, EVA padding, and a Gore-Tex® waterproof/breathable membrane, the Phantom GTX glove offers uncompromising protection for three-season riding. True to REV’IT’s high standards, the stylish goatskin construction, reinforced with hypalon in high-wear areas, ensures years of comfort despite hard use. (CN) revit.eu, 888-681-0180

Küat Vagabond X $489 The Vagabond X is the latest roof-mounted system from bike-rack manufacturer Küat. True to the brand, it’s a harmonious blend of premium materials, smart features, and great design aesthetics. Tucked neatly behind the fairing are two fork-mounted bicycle attachments. Also included are locking rack mounts and an integrated cable lock to keep would-be thieves looking for easier prey. Four heavy-duty clamps attach the rack to almost any shape crossbar, and an optional rack expander increases overall length to 73 inches. The max load, at 160 pounds, is a gear junkie’s dream. The finish detail is impeccable, right down to the genuine copper decal on the fairing. (CN) kuatracks.com, 877-822-5828

Peak Designs Capture $79

Every photographer has struggled with the challenge of how to best carry a camera while on the move. The Capture camera clip system from Peak Designs is an innovative and surprisingly simple solution. The Capture is a quick-release mounting system that can be affixed to backpack straps, belts, or virtually any other strap. Using a small base plate fastened to your camera’s tripod mount, the Capture allows you to quickly snap your camera onto the clip for secure transport, or to free your hands while you set up your next shot. The clip is constructed of machined aluminum with a quick-release trigger and secondary threaded lock to ensure your camera stays put and at the ready. (CN) peakdesignltd.com

Viking GS-9 Winch $1,298 Viking Off Road has long been associated with premium-quality winch line, recovery gear, and accessories. This spring they stepped into the electric winch sector with their GS-9 (9,000 lb). At less than 60 pounds, fully fitted with line, Viking Thimble, and Hawse fairlead, Viking founder Thor Jònsson says, “It is as light as specialty winches without compromising line capacity or strength.” From the drum design to the water and dust-tight control box and patented outside-the-drum Cone Braking System (CBS), the GS-9 is specifically designed to be 100 percent synthetic compatible and thermally efficient. Additional clearance under the connecting rods, or TieBride, allow for singleside spooling of the drum during longer pulls without the worry of binding the cable. We’ve sourced a GS-9 for one our of our long-term project vehicles. We’ll give a full report after we’ve run it through the paces. (CC) vikingoffroad.com, 818-842-0595 Overland Journal Spring 2013

News from the Trade Exploring the newest gear for overlanding By James Langan

Avon Distanzia A dual-sport tire for BIG bikes.

von’s answer to the question “What tire should I put on my big adventure bike?” is the Distanzia. Tires for quarterton motos have a tough job: they must provide excellent grip and good wear on pavement, while offering decent traction on virtually every other surface. This class of tire is typically called an 80/20 or 90/10 tire, describing the amount of onand off-pavement travel for which they’re designed. My test route included lots of familiar, fast, twisty back roads in the Sierra Nevada, California, as well as several miles of dirt roads on which I’d never traveled. My baseline psi, on my old GS, was BMW’s light-load recommendation: 32 psi in the front and 36 psi in the rear. Distanzias are reputed to perform well in rain, something you might expect from a tire made in England, where it’s occasionally damp. However, my test ride was one day ahead of the rain and snow. On the 27 miles of rain-grooved concrete interstate, which delivered me to a secondary road, the tread exhibited excellent tracking properties. I only noticed the grooved pavement once, while leaning over and riding briskly. The rounded-profile Avons allowed me to dive into turns with a smooth, seamless transition from the center to the outer edges. Study Overland Journal Spring 2013

the images and you can see how the Distanzia’s overlapping chevron pattern limits transitional gaps. This lack of perceivable tread-block transitions makes leaning your bike easy and reassuring. I crossed Route 49’s Yuba Pass, an elevation of 6,700 feet, keeping a sporting pace and the tires warm. Though temperatures were in the low 50s, on-road grip was very good. After a brief stop in the rough-and-ready mining town of Downieville (popular with mountain bikers), I traded pavement for dirt on my way to find the historic Henness Pass Road. On the slow, first-gear climb up the graded dirt from the confluence of the Downie River and the North Fork of the Yuba, traction was positive with limited slippage. After my rapid 1,000-foot ascent to higher-but-level ground, I lowered the tires to a conservative 25 psi in the front and 30 psi in the rear. Traction improved at these pressures and helped the Avons absorb the bumps and rocks common on 2.0 to 2.5 rated tracks. Depending on your speed and sanity while riding a 600-pound dirt bike, mud and sand are some of the most challenging surfaces for both rider and tire. Thankfully, no mud was encountered. But there were several short sections of moderate sand. The Distanzias performed well, though a few of the deeper patches grabbed the low-void front tire and required a foot-stab to prevent a fall. The Distanzia 110/80R19 front uses a 4-ply tread for added strength, rigidity, durability, and impact resistance during off-highway travel. The 150/70R17 rear features Avon’s Advanced Variable Belt Density (A-VBD) construction. The steel belt is wrapped tightly in the center for better wear and high-speed stability, yet looser on the shoulders for a compliant and better gripping contact patch when leaning. Two emergency, threshold-braking drills were performed to test deceleration performance. The first was early in the day on the pavement, traveling 70 mph with full air pressure. The Distanzias stopped straight, with no slippage or ABS activation. The second test was on the dirt, near dusk, at 55 mph, to simulate a close encounter with Bambi. My aggressive grab of the front brake lever resulted in a rapid decrease in velocity; the slightly low pressures probably helping with some added deformation. After 21 miles in the dirt and 170 total miles, I’m comfortable saying the Distanzia is a worthy competitor for your big adventure-touring tire dollars. Performance was good, as expected, on all surfaces. I look forward to updating you with a long-term review after I put a few thousand miles on them.

The rounded-profile Avons allowed the rider to dive into turns with a smooth, seamless transition from the center to the outer edges.

Clockwise from top: The front 110/80R19 has 6/32 (5.2 mm) tread and longitudinal traction bars across the chevron tread pattern. The rear 150/70R17 offers 10/32 (8 mm) deep tread blocks. Distanzia’s overlapping chevron pattern limits transitional gaps. When cornering, the rounded profile allows for smooth, seamless transition from the center to the outer edges. Opposite: The chevron pattern tread is similar front and rear. Small- to medium-sized rocks didn’t faze the Distanzia.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

News from the Trade Exploring the newest gear for overlanding By Christophe Noel

Schuberth C3 World and SRC-System

™

$749 / $399

Possibly the world’s most advanced helmet.

or more than 70 years, the name Schuberth has been synonymous with innovation, quality, and uncompromising attention to detail. It has earned a spot in the rarified air of the world’s most advanced helmet manufacturers. Inventor of the integrated sun visor in 1984, and the modular helmet a decade later, Schuberth once again sets new standards with the C3 World. Released in 2008, the C3 is best described with superlatives. It’s the lightest, smallest, quietest, and most aerodynamic modular helmet available. Schuberth is the only helmet manufacturer in the industry with their own wind tunnel, which explains why the C3 has such unrivaled aerodynamic and aero-acoustic qualities. Modular helmets are frequently cursed with excessive wind noise and buffeting, but the C3 is sublimely discreet and stable, even at freeway speeds. The slippery shape, combined with exceptionally low weight, reduces rider fatigue, making allday saddle sessions easy on the neck and shoulders. The technical features of the C3 include a long list of proprietary Schuberth designs like the Anti-Roll-Off System: two parallel straps along the jawline to prevent the helmet from pivoting forward and off the rider’s head in the event of a crash. The Pinlock® visor creates a double-layered lens guaranteed to prevent fogging and produces impressive optical clarity with virtually no distortion. The integrated sun visor is actuated with an easy-to-operate sliding lever along the left edge of the helmet, and raising the chin bar is a simple, one-handed motion. The well-padded ratchet-style chinstrap has an easy-to-find release tab adding further rider convenience. The C3 can also be fitted with the optional SRC-System™ for wireless Bluetooth communications. It can connect up to three riders, has a range of 1,000 feet, and can link to your smart phone, MP3 player, and GPS. It even comes with a built-in FM radio. Based on the Cardo Bluetooth system, the SRC-System™ fits seamlessly into the C3’s neck roll. A boom microphone and high-quality wired speakers easily slip into place providing crisp sound that self-adjusts to compensate for changing ambient noise. Aside from being feature-rich and impeccably well built, the C3 features stunning graphics that evoke a sense of wanderlust worthy of any adventure rider. ECE and DOT approved. schuberthnorthamerica.com

For more than 70 years, the name Schuberth has been synonymous with innovation, quality, and uncompromising attention to detail.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

4 X 4 EQUIPMENT THAT’S WELL TRAVELED. 26

Overland Journal Spring 2013

P R E M I U M J E E P AC C E S S O R I E S AEV-CONVERSIONS.COM /OJ | 888-561-3033

Inspirat ion

Overland News Showcasing expedition travelers and resources from around the globe By Åsa Björklund

Bram van Hoek and Anouk Zwinkels Around the world in 80 days? Nah, that sounded too rushed for Dutch couple Anouk Zwinkels and Bram van Hoek—687 days seemed a better time frame. Friends and family members admired their courage to venture out into the world of overland travel, but not everyone supported their plan. When Bram resigned from his job, his boss told him he was committing career suicide, and everyone considered them crazy to include Iran in the itinerary. In spite of what people said, Anouk and Bram set off. “We chose overlanding since it gave us the opportunity to go places no tourist buses ever stop,” Anouk says. Departing Europe, they steered their Land Rover Defender southeast to Turkey, then through Iran and the Stans before venturing into Russia and Mongolia. From South Korea they shipped their truck to Canada, where they followed the Pan-American Highway south to the end of all roads: Ushuaia. En route they took every opportunity to meet local people and learn about new cultures. Their Land Rover had a curious presence and an affinity for breaking down. Little did they know they had picked the ideal vehicle for “meeting people.” After almost two years on the road they are back in the Netherlands and reflecting on the highlight of the trip; the gracious hospitality of those they met. Anouk said, “Wherever we’ve been, whoever we’ve met, we have always met the greatest generosity and kindness. We have learned that there is so much more than economic prosperity and material wealth to make a life truly happy and worthy.”

Patricia and Loren Lee Upton Follow these and other travelers on expeditionportal.com

Success does not always come easy. The more daunting the task and the greater the challenge, the sweeter the victory. It was not until the fourth attempt (1985-1987), one that is recorded in the 1992 Guinness Book of Records, that 76-year-old Idaho resident Loren Lee Upton, along with his wife Patricia, succeeded in making an all-land crossing of the Darien Gap by vehicle. It took them 714 days to cover the swampy, 125-mile jungle between Panama and Colombia. Patricia, who joined Loren´s expedition in Panama, said, “There have been several vehicle expeditions through the Gap. However, all have traveled anywhere from 20 to 200 plus miles via the river systems. We crossed a river, but never traveled up or down a river in order to avoid a difficult area.” From Colombia, their Roads End to Roads End expedition continued south in an attempt to take a single, American-made vehicle around the world on a north-south course entirely on land; except for natural water barriers and Antarctica. From South America, Loren and Patricia shipped their vehicle, a 1966 Jeep CJ-5, to South Africa. Beginning at Cape Agulhas, they drove north through Africa, the Middle East, Europe, and the former Soviet Union, completing the expedition at roads end in Norway. Fourteen years had passed since Loren began the expedition in Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, and five years since the Darien Gap crossing. However, their mission to travel around the world entirely on land had failed; a single 1-mile section was missing. Ironically, after tens of thousands of miles on the road, and battling Mother Nature for more than two years in the Darien, it was human intervention that resulted in failing to reach their goal… war. The border between Israel and Jordan had been closed. Patricia says, ”Now that the borders are open we still have hope that we will one day return with our Jeep and close the final mile.” Overland Journal Spring 2013

Inspirat ion

Overland News Showcasing expedition travelers and resources from around the globe By Åsa Björklund

Pablo Rey and Anna Callau Most people define a traveler as somebody who sees the world and eventually returns home. But what if the world became your home? Pablo Rey, of Argentina, and Anna Callau, of Spain, have been on the road for 13 years, and their “home” is a Mitsubishi Delica/L300 4WD van, affectionately named The Cockroach. Pablo defines his previous existence as “a workaholic advertising writer.” “Then, my brain made CRUNCHHH, between other weird noises, and we decided to leave.” Departing their base in Spain, they turned south, through the Middle East, and to the southern tip of Africa. The Cockroach hitched a ride to Argentina atop a fishing vessel, where they spent the past seven years en route to Alaska. During that time Pablo had an epiphany: People in the West care too much about money. “In a world where sooner or later we will die, the most important asset should be time. Arabs and Latin Americans are good at this,” Pablo reflected while remembering his old life. “Our education usually impels us to stick to a straight lifeline: to study, get married, get a mortgage, have children, and work during the rest of our lives, as automats of a production line. We’ve been inoculated [by] the sinister ‘Arbeit macht frei’ slogan, Work will set you free, but without the Nazi paraphernalia.” Few have embraced time as well as Pablo and Anna. They do, however, miss friends from home. Pablo says, “After some time, all the mountains, waterfalls, beaches, and zebras, while nice, repeat until they start to become…boring. People, instead, are the color of a trip. People are always different, a surprise that leaves a trace on you.” To assist their shoestring budget and chronicle their adventures, they have published several books. Available in English is Around the World in 10 Years: The Book of Independence. viajeros4x4.com 28

Mary Wilcox Follow these and other travelers on expeditionportal.com

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Engineering student Mary Wilcox, 24, will soon have only one close friend, her motorcycle. This August she will set off on a solo road trip on her 2006 BMW F650GS, from Vancouver, Canada, to Ushuaia, Argentina. The year-long journey will cover roughly 18,000 miles, mainly on the Pan-American Highway, but occasionally on back roads and single-track routes. Mary, who is from Phoenix, AZ, got the motorcycle travel bug when she did an internship in Togo, West Africa. “That internship fundamentally changed my life,” Mary says. She was delirious with malaria, yet found herself still able to appreciate “life in its most striking and raw form.” She met “amazing people to whom a motorcycle is [a] tool of empowerment capable of supporting livelihoods, transporting families, and traversing thousands of miles through stunning terrain.” Fortunately, her father and two of her close friends support her dream of a solo long-distance motorcycle trip. “Most other people reacted to the idea as if I was completely crazy,” Mary says. “The journey, however, doesn´t end in Ushuaia. I plan to research and develop a bicycle and sustainable-food-systems nonprofit organization.” Meet Mary at the 2013 Overland Expo, where Touratech will be outfitting her BMW, or follow her at: nonquistadora.com.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Overland News Showcasing expedition travelers and resources from around the globe By Chris Collard and Åsa Björklund

Rallye Aídes des Gazelles Rallye Aídes des Gazelles, an all-female endurance rally created by Dominique Serra in 1990 as a response to the male-dominated world of motorsports, will be launching its 23rd rally in March as this issue goes to print. While Overland Journal does not usually feature 4WD events, the Gazelles Rallye is an exception. Why? Heart of Gazelles, the partnering non-profit organization, as well as participating teams from around the world, extend their resources to female-based aid projects throughout Morocco. In the past decade, efforts have included medical aid, support to schools and orphanages, and sustainability guidance for local villages. American desert racer Emily Miller and extreme skiing champion Wendy Fisher spearheaded U.S. efforts in 2009. With five all-female teams competing in 2013, it marks the largest U.S. representation to date. Canada has also stepped up with nine teams competing. This year, celebrity pro surfer Bethany Hamilton and X-Game gold medalist Chrissie Beavis join the team. Hamilton, who lost an arm in a shark attack and was back on her surfboard 30 days later, is an inspiration to athletes worldwide. The Gazelles varies from many formats in that GPS and cell phones (smart phones) are strictly prohibited, and outside assistance is not allowed. Teams use old fashioned paper maps and dead reckoning to navigate through thousands of kilometers of Moroccan deserts over a nine-day period. It is considered one of the most difficult all-female sporting events on the planet. As you are reading this, Hamilton, Beavis, and the rest of North America’s female contingent will be working their way through the ergs of Eastern Morocco. Piloting an Isuzu D Max, Hamilton and Beavis are taking part in the Isuzu Media Challenge, the winner of which will earn 15,000 euros for the charity of their choice. For information about the rallye or to make a donation to Heart of Gazelles, go to: rallyeaichadesgazelles.com (CC). 30

Bucket List: Ride Australia…Check If riding the Australian Outback, which spans almost 3,000 miles from the South Pacific to the Indian Ocean, has been on your bucket list, an E ticket ride with the Australasian Safari Adventure Tour might be in order. The Australasian Safari, referred to as the “Dakar Down Under” due to its duration, distances covered, and grueling pace, is an eight-day endurance race through the Western Australian Outback. As an Adventure Tour participant, you don’t get a time card, but you will be dodging “skippies” (kangaroos) on many of the special stages. This is not your average laid-back tag-along tour, coasting from one coffee house to the next. If it rains, you will be muddy. If it doesn’t, you’ll enjoy copious amounts of Australia’s famous bull dust. In coastal sand dunes, you’ll be glad you have an aggressive knobby tire. Average days are a combination of bitumen (asphalt) and dirt, and cover 400 kilometers (250 miles). Nights are spent in the official bivouac, camped alongside the competitors. In 2013, the Safari (September 20-27) will be heading north from Perth to the Murchison and Gascoyne regions of Western Australia, traversing the white sand beaches south of Kalbarri, the rough country around the Kennedy Range, and along the coastline near Ningaloo Reef. For the $3,000 (AUD) fee you’ll receive event transportation of your gear, all fuel, a support truck, bivouac facilities and catering, and required licensing and insurance. Ride your own bike or arrange a rental through a Safari affiliate. Australia . . . check. (CC) australasiansafari.com.au, +61 08 9445 2645 Overland Journal Spring 2013

Overland News Showcasing expedition travelers and resources from around the globe

Surf and Turf in Ecuador Imagine leaving the Andean 16th-century UNESCO World Heritage city of Quito on a fully equipped dual-sport motorcycle and riding down the western slopes of the Andes, crossing through the rainforest and arriving at the Pacific Ocean for a day of surfing. It´s a three-day getaway hard to top, and you don’t have to ride 8,000 miles down the Pan-American to do it. This self-guided motorcycling and surfing adventure is the latest addition to the buffet of bike tours offered by Quito-based Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental. Riders cross the equator and weave down through cloud forests on roads filled with hair-raising curves and splendid vistas. The destination is the small coastal town of Canoa; a top surfing spot with no rocks, no riptides, and an abandoned, uncrowded beach break. At Betty Surf Camp, a surfing and yoga instruction center run by American expatriate, Patricia White, you can learn how to master the board, take yoga classes, or simply soak up the sun on a gorgeous beach that hasn’t been commercialized by big business. More experienced surfers will get a long board and a surf guide to help them keep riding the “sweet spots.” The ride back to Quito offers all-paved highways or an option of climbing the Andes on unimproved dirt roads. There are no worries, as all your gear, as well as a GPS to keep you on track, are provided. However, be aware of one major danger: you might not want to return home until next year…if ever. (AB) freedombikerental.com, 603-617-2499 (U.S.) 00-593-98-176-2340 (non U.S.)

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Overland News Showcasing expedition travelers and resources from around the globe By James Langan

Long Beach International Motorcycle Show Overland Journal previews the 2013 corral of dual-sport motos.

or folks interested in anything and everything having to do with motorcycles, the Progressive International Motorcycle Show is the place to be. It shouldn’t be difficult to fit it into your agenda, as over a dozen are held across North America annually. Open to the public, they are a superb place to ogle the latest two- and three-wheeled forms of transportation. From sport bikes to dirt bikes, everything is displayed in an intimate and walkable setting. Of course, our focus was on dual-sport adventure bikes, and there were many fine examples. Big news for adventure riders was BMW’s display of the partially water-cooled R1200GS. With the Paralever swingarm now on the left, the exhaust on the right, a more durable wet-clutch, and watercooling, the new R1200GS has received the most dramatic year-toyear changes to the Boxer platform since its 1923 introduction. Of course, BMW wasn’t the only pretty girl at the dance. Suzuki presented the V-Strom ABS makeover, and Husqvarna was on hand with the 2013 TR650 Terra. All major manufacturers were present and showing goodies. Honda, Husqvarna, Kawasaki, KTM, Royal Enfield, Triumph, Ural, Yamaha, and Zero exhibited at least one, if not several, worthy off-pavement machines. Vendors, such as adventure-touring favorite Touratech also displayed their wares, including their new rear suspension, designed specifically for heavy adventure bikes [see the comprehensive review on expeditionportal.com]. Despite my love for four-wheel drives, the International Motorcycle Show in Long Beach rejuvenated my moto passion, and spurred me to set riding goals for 2013. Like the Husqvarna slogan says, “ELECT 2 RiDE MORE.”

Royal Enfield has been creating classic motorcycles since 1909. enfieldmotorcycles.com, 800-201-7472 The Progressive International Motorcycle Show offers multiple venues across the U.S. each year. motorcycleshows.com, 800-8577580 Right: The show offered numerous classic displays such as these beautiful circa 70s Crocetti Speciale Triumph Daytona Café Racers.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Overland News Showcasing expedition travelers and resources from around the globe

INNOVATIONS & GEAR

Left column: The water-cooled R1200GS—now with intake above and exhaust below the cylinders. bmw-motorad.com Husqvarna’s 58 hp, 652cc, dual-purpose motor. husqvarna-motorcycles.com, 951-268-3600 Warn Industries XT17 winch on the rear of a Yamaha Super Tenere. warn.com, 800-543-9276 Right column: Yamaha Super Tenere skid plate looks like it will take a good hit. yamaha-motor.com, 800-252-5265 Touratech’s new heavy-duty pre-load adjustable rear suspensions are engineered for loaded adventure bikes. touratech-usa.com, 800-491-2926

BIKES

Left column: 2012 Limited Edition Ural Yamal: only 50 of these unusual sidecar versions were produced for the U.S. market. imz-ural.com The Tiger Explorer is Triumph’s offering in the big bike dual-sport sector. triumphmotorcycles. com, 678-854-2010 Icon Motorsport’s Portland/ Dakar Triumph Tiger 800XC. rideicon.com, 608758-1111 Husqvarna’s all new 2013 TR650 Terra. husqvarna-motorcycles.com, 951-268-3600 Middle column: BMW’s new 2013 R1200GS, now water-cooled, with a new wet clutch, transmission, oil-cooled alternator, and 125 hp. Note the Paralever and exhaust have switched sides. bmw-motorad.com New for 2013, the 275 lb Zero FX Stealth Fighter. Available with a 44 hp, 70 lb-ft motor, and a range of 90 miles of combined terrain use. zeromotorcycles.com, 888-786-9376 The recently revised BMW F800GS. bmw-motorad.com The KTM 690 Enduro R—305 lb dry, 67 hp. Fun. ktm.com Right column: Introduced in 2012, the BMW G650GS Sertão was heir to the F650GS Dakar throne and gained instant acceptance with the adventure-moto crowd. bmw-motorad.com Yamaha Super Tenere. yamaha-motor.com, 800-252-5265 The more street-biased, cast-wheel, TR650 Strada from Husqvarna. husqvarna-motorcyclesna.com, 951-268-3600

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Overland News Showcasing expedition travelers and resources from around the globe

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Smugglers’ Pass The Mudrut Land Rover team attempts a spring crossing of the Andorran Pyrenees. By Ros Woodham

Overland Journal Spring 2013

A chilled, moist air circled about my face,

the only part exposed from within the Gore-Tex outer bag of my three-part military sleep system. The moonless sky displayed vast constellations that I was regretfully ill equipped to identify without the aid of an iPad app. To the west were the distant snowy peaks of the Andorran Pyrenees, now barely visible in this unpolluted sky. To the south, a faint hint of light rose from a cluster of dwellings a mile down the valley that separated our camp from the only civilization we had seen all day. From inside the tipi, the murmur of my comrades had long subsided and I felt privileged to be witnessing the brittle silence of a crisp, spring night, broken only occasionally by the gentle rustle of the frigid air moving through the vegetation.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

A tedium of French autoroutes lay between our base in the U.K. and our destination, the Pyrenees, a spectacular mountain range that forms the geological border between France and Spain. The reward for our long slog, as we snaked through the picturesque wine-producing regions of the Midi-Pyrenees, was the first glimpse of the snowcapped Pyrenean peaks. It was April—spring should have induced a significant melt by this time—and the lower elevations should have been clear of significant snow. But our long-awaited arrival brought an unexpected surprise: A veil of snow blanketed the lower reaches as well. With several years’ experience in leading Mudrut expeditions to this part of Europe, Ian and I know these valleys well and were aware that we might face extreme conditions due to late snowfall. If we were looking for a fight, it seemed this one could go the distance. We crossed the border into Spain and paused in the village of Bossòst to replenish supplies at a small market. A swollen river running through the town center confirmed that the melt had begun, but the surrounding slopes confirmed the locals’ warnings of dangerous conditions and closed mountain passes; their sincerity emphasized through widened eyes and questioning glances. We discovered that most campsites had delayed their seasonal opening due to the unexpected conditions. However, a phone call to the regional tourist board confirmed one camp in the area that would open its facilities for us that night. With arrangements made and a few daylight hours remaining, we decided to recce one of the routes from Bossòst that ascends the flanks of the Arán Valley. At an elevation of 2,295 feet, the village was clear of snow. But several hundred feet higher, small patches soon clustered to become larger drifts that looked likely to cause a few problems for our vehicles. Though we had a Warn 9.5xp winch on the front bumper, a recently-fitted full roll cage, and enough support, survival, and recovery equipment for every conceivable eventuality, our Defender TDCi 110 Utility was heavy and the going promised to be arduous. Returning to the village, we rendezvoused with the other half of our team, overlanding virgins Chris Pretty and Dave Parrott, who had driven Chris’ newly-prepped Defender 90 from their respective homes in France. The short truck sat heavy on its haunches, suggesting either slightly soft suspension or excessive cargo. On reaching the campsite it was clear that the latter was the more likely cause. For Ian Woolley and me, OzTent cots, Therm-a-Rest pads, and Tennier modular sleep systems constituted our basic camp setup. Expecting rain, we extended the side awning from the Hannibal roof rack and threw some pasta in a saucepan, which bubbled noisily on our Coleman stove. I commandeered a cold beer from the Waeco fridge and decided to look in on our neighbors. In contrast, Chris and Dave were slicing fine French cheeses to enhance the flavors of their oaky Bordeaux. An aluminum shelving system formed an elaborate kitchen area at the entrance of their family-sized hoop tent (a.k.a. the poly tunnel), whilst inside, homemade sweet and sour pork was about to be released from its vacuum-packed tomb and heated on the single gas ring which doubled as a heating device. “Glamping” was not a term I had expected to use on this trip, but the guys were demonstrating the term to perfection. However, on glancing into the sleeping quarters, I wondered if they should have been as conscientious with their choice in sleeping bag and expedition attire as their culinary selections. Chris’ truck had been equally well considered. He had bought the 300 Tdi some months previous as a completely standard 1994 Defend-

er with an Ifor Williams top. After a thorough consultation with Devon 4x4, the truck took on a completely different shape. Basic preparation included a raised air-intake, Mach 5 rims shod with Cooper ST tires, and underbody protection. Further modifications consisted of a custom Terrafirma and Old Man Emu suspension, and a new Mile Marker winch for the D44 bumper. The full roll cage suggested that Chris had anticipated this maiden voyage to be anything but girly. We could tell he was hankering to use his new winch. In hindsight, the term “be careful what you wish for,” springs to mind.

La Val d’Arán

A steady pace over the coming week should have easily routed us through the High Pyrenees along the French border, dropping us into the tiny country of Andorra via the famed Smugglers’ Pass. This would mark the trip’s halfway point. We had planned to exit via La Rabassa on the eastern side of Andorra. The route would lead us into the Sierra del Cadí to enjoy a more sophisticated amble through the lower Pyrenean forests and pastures on our way to the Mediterranean coast. Day one on the trail, however, predicted a completely different schedule. After a damp night I emerged from my sleeping bag warm and dry. Packing our kit into one of the roof-mounted Hannibal boxes, we were keen to discover how our heavy rig would fare. As suspected, our glampers had had a less than cozy night and were equally anxious to get moving and to pump some blood through their systems. Crossing the river at Bossòst marked the start of the first leg. It would guide us past the abandoned mercury mines of Margalida, along the flanks of Val d’Arán, and to the village of Ares, elevation 4,265 feet, before dropping back down to the valley floor via a stretch of asphalt road. The going was easy up to an elevation of 4,600 feet, the thin dusting of snow on the forest floor causing no problems for our BFGoodrich KM2 tires. Conventional wisdom leans towards all-terrains for snow. However, the KM2s had proved themselves very capable during our previous Arctic excursions. Expecting to encounter some heavy

The Hannibal side awning provided shelter from the rain and prevented condensation from settling on our open-air camp. Opposite: Though plenty of snow remained in the higher elevations, creeks flowed heavy with spring melt. Overland Journal Spring 2013

Rounding the bend I could see the 90. It had run out of traction, gotten sideways, and the rear end was hanging precariously off the edge.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

mud from snowmelt, we had opted for this incarnation of the Mud Terrain. The Utility felt heavy but solid on the rocky track as we applied momentum to our method of advancing through the steeper sections. The heavy-duty springs were well controlled by a set of tough Koni Heavy Track Raid shocks, which had recently been fitted to correct the bounciness of the previous suspension setup. The lighter 90 danced nimbly over the terrain, tracing our pre-cut tire tracks without a hitch. Climbing higher, snowdrifts stretched across areas that had been shielded from the sun. The heavy Utility struggled to remain atop, and we resorted to the bulldozer technique, cutting a path, bit by bit, with each charge into the wet snow. However, the drifts were banked heavily against the side of the mountain, and targeting the shallower downslope section left little margin for error. The compacted, wet snow beneath our tires turned to a slippery slush as gravity pulled us sideways, sending the trucks’ rear ends dangerously close to the precipitous edge. As the drifts increased, we turned to the winches for security and steadier progress. With our 3-ton monster struggling, we put the D90 in front, expecting the lighter and more agile truck to steady itself better. Chris’ enthusiasm and inherent driving skill was admirable, and Dave assumed the role of snow shoveler like a natural. However, the pair had not yet settled into a good communicative stride, something that develops and strengthens with time and experience. At times, their lack of teamwork accentuated some of the dangers that our situation presented. From inside the cab Chris was unable to see the position of the rear corners of his truck, and needed to rely upon his co-driver to advise accordingly. He would power through a sideways slide in the hopes that momentum would bring the truck back on course. I held my breath as the rear tires ignored the ruts cut by the front tires, and the heavy back end slid perilClockwise: Our first drive-dig-recover; this would become the general pattern throughout the trip. Weighing almost 3 tons, our Defender 110 struggled in the soft wet snow. Traversing off-camber drifts became toss-up between tackling the deeper snow, and driving dangerously close to the edge. Opposite: An old stone refuge provided the perfect winch point.

ously close to the edge of the track. Although unorthodox, his method was producing nail-biting progress and he soon disappeared around a corner. The 110 had bellied out in a drift and we were not able to follow. There was no reply to our calls on the CB so I ran ahead to assess the situation. Rounding the bend I could see the 90. It had run out of traction, gotten sideways, and the rear end was hanging precariously off the edge. Chris’ self-recovery operation was already taking shape. In this treeless section, a strategically placed refuge, a long-abandoned stone building, served as the only available winch point. He had lassoed it using numerous straps and a winch line extension. By now, Woolley and Dave had caught up and were digging furiously around the vehicle to level out an area in which to turn it around. The wire cable creaked and juddered as the truck inched its way clear of the ledge. Once safe, it was released from its embrace and Chris was able to manage the rest of the turn under his own power. We collected the recovery gear and clung to the side of the 90’s roll cage as we retraced the tracks back to the 110. It was a novel scene and we had to pat ourselves on the back for resourcefulness, though my nerves were almost as frayed as Chris’ winch cable. With a lack of trees to use as winching points, there was no option to continue at this stage. Reluctantly, we were forced to turn back and find an alternative route around the valley. A lower trail circled us towards the village of Ares, one of the oldest and least populated villages of the region, and back to the valley floor near the town of Vielha e Mijaran. We were only a few miles from the previous night’s camp and decided to return to it for a well-earned rest. Exhausted, the 90 team decided to skip the full circus ensemble, electing instead to sleep in the warmth of the tent tipi. A log-burning stove would dry their socks and wet clothes, and they’d stay warm throughout the night.

Montgarri

The following morning we ventured into town. Vielha e Mijaran is a small Pyrenean city of about 4,000 inhabitants constructed at the point where the rivers Nere and Garona meet. This is the only portion of Spain, and of Catalonia, on the northern face of the Pyrenees. Due to Overland Journal Spring 2013

the natural orographic frontier, weather patterns off the Atlantic, and geographical placement, villages of this region have a closer historical bond with the culture of Southern France than with the Iberian Peninsula. We marveled at the Romanesque architecture (another affirmation of its relationship with France) as we absorbed the bustle of its lively commercial nucleus. Chris and Dave purchased more appropriate footwear from a ski store, whilst Woolley and I sought out local culture in the form of coffee and croissants from a sidewalk café. From the village of Vilamòs, which is considered to be the oldest in the Val d’Arán, our new route cut sharply across the side of the mountain, which provided an incredible view of Mont Maladeta (from the Spanish term montes malditors, or damned mountains). The plan was to

For the second day running, we were forced to retrace our steps and seek yet another alternative route.

follow the Val de Varradós to an impressive waterfall at Sauth deth Pish, then into the Uishera Valley, elevation 7,550 feet. If successful, it would be a marked step closer to Andorra—little did we know there had been a landslide just a few miles up the track. We approached the mountainous obstacle, studied it from all angles, and assessed the possibilities. It would have been futile to try to shift this mass of earth and snow using only snow shovels; not to mention the risk of causing another slide that could have taken us, and our trucks, with it. Reluctantly, we agreed to leave it well alone. For the second day running, we were forced to retrace our steps and seek yet another alternative route. We decided on a track that approached the falls from the other direction. Judging by the previous day’s progress, it became dauntingly clear that crossing the high passes of this region would be challenging. On the other hand, it would keep things interesting and we were eager to see how far we could get. We followed the asphalt as far as the village of Bagergue, the highest inhabited village in Val d’Arán, and crossed a wide riverbed towards the misty unknown of the Sierra de Ameros. Spectacular massifs surrounded us as we made steady headway, gently navigating the switchbacks to an altitude close to 6,500 feet. Ahead, a snowdrift extending several hundred feet to the next switchback halted progress. It was a familiar scene. We broke for lunch to again assess our options. An angry band of weather closed in, cutting short our break and pelting us with sizable hailstones before swooping up the valley and disappearing into the peaks above. We set to work. Several hours of digging, driving, and winching saw the 90 to the next switchback. But the weather returned, this time with heavy snow that severely limited visibility. A recce on foot confirmed that should we want to get off the mountain before nightfall, the next section wasn’t worth attempting. As a second thought, we figured that the falls would probably be less spectacular in the dark. Though slowly becoming disheartened by the lack of completed routes, we planned yet another, from Beret to Marimanha, for the following day. Up to this point, most of our snowy difficulties had arisen when faced with steep ascents or hazardous side slopes. Although the Beret to Marimanha track was at a higher elevation, it was a more gradual ascent—it could be our breakthrough. Beginning at 5,905 feet, we were already surrounded by thick, fresh snow. Conditions were cold, and the snow seemed drier and sturdier. We hoped that we would travel over, rather than through it, and snow chains would definitely be a big advantage. All four tires on the 110 were chained up, but the 90 only carried one pair, which we fitted to the rear. With Woolley at the wheel, the Utility heaved itself onto each drift in a flurry of white spray. Conditions made it difficult to determine the edges of the track, and without warning, the 110 sank heavily at the rear. The team set to work filling the hole, then braced it with waffle boards and X-Trax. Once clear, it became apparent that the right side of the track was being undermined by flowing water; we held to the left with varying degrees of success. In less than 500 feet we would repeat the

One of the many tricky side slopes that required winching to avoid sliding off the trail. Opposite: A landslide of rock and ice had blocked our second attempt at the summit; it was too dangerous to attempt to pass.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Our muscles ached, our lungs searched for oxygen in the thin air, and, with continued use, the D90’s winch was beginning to show signs of weariness.

recovery process twice. I took a deep breath before beginning the ritual; unlash the Bushranger X-Trax from the roof, dig a trench for retreat, and extend the 90’s winch cable. This became the theme for the day: drive-sink-dig-recover—in a seemingly endless cycle. However, despite the intense labor, the team displayed no hint of giving up. We had hit a stride, developing an understanding within the group, and were encouraged by our arduous, but solid progress. Several hours later and a mile further on, we reached the cover of a pine forest that rewarded us with just a thin covering of snow and some well-deserved advance. This track runs parallel with the Noguera Pallaresa River, skirting the hillsides that fringe the black pine forests between the settlements of Beret and Montgarri. Due to the isolation during the cold months, Montgarri villagers would often experience as many as six months without outside contact. The village was abandoned about 70 years ago, and looking into the valley we could see the decaying dwellings of its inhabitants. Passing the steeple tower of the 16th century Sanctuari de Montgarri, we were certainly the first vehicles through here in recent months. Abandoned, but not dead, the small stone refuge, which attracts a fair amount of tourist traffic in the summer season, keeps the village alive. We had descended several hundred feet since the start of the trail, but were now faced with a long, steady incline. Our muscles ached, our lungs searched for oxygen in the thin air, and, with continued use, the D90’s winch was beginning to show signs of weariness. Its gnarled wire cable no longer wound smoothly onto the drum, and it began to overheat. But at this point, winching was our only option. Chris hovered between the two vehicles, a remote winch controller in each hand, as Dave dug furiously with his favorite snow shovel. Woolley moved waffle boards and X-Trax in and out of ruts whilst I, the lightest team member, was required to put down my camera and scale the bank to connect winch cables and snatch blocks. Once again, creative winching moved us slowly up the incline, inch by agonizing inch. Snow chains are a massive advantage in drier snow. Attempting to approach the Sauth deth Pish waterfalls via the Sierra de Ameros.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

After eight grueling hours we emerged into a snowless clearing and descended towards Alos d’Isil. We had covered a grand total of four miles, but I can safely say that it was one of the most challenging and rewarding—not to mention exhausting—off-pavement experiences I have ever had. I was proud of our efforts as a team; focused and determined. That night we rested our aching bodies; exhilarated, exhausted, and vowing that the following day and the climb to Andorra via Smugglers’ Pass would be an easier one. Once clear of Smugglers’ Pass, at about 6,200 feet elevation, we’d steadily descend 12 miles of track on the sunnier side of the mountain. Simple enough, it seemed. However, in shadowy crevices lurked deep, icy drifts that caused the trucks to belly out or slide terrifyingly towards the drop at the edge of the track. Midway, a fallen tree blocked the trail. The entire root system lay in the center, whilst the length of the thick, double trunk stretched out behind it. True to form, the team set about clearing it away. Chris wielded the Gränsfors Bruks Scandinavian ForOverland Journal Spring 2013

est Axe—a favorite acquisition from the recent Northern Lights Chase expedition—shaving off the smaller twigs and branches. Woolley fired up our Stihl chainsaw, cutting the main trunk into manageable discs that could be rolled to the side. The enormous root ball and remaining stump were winched away using a snatch block pulley system. Feeling empowered by our successes, we continued, only to find, half a mile further on, that the drifts would defeat us once more. We headed back to camp. I am not sure how, but that evening, in true British style, Chris rustled up an incredible roast dinner. I didn’t ask any questions. I just ate, joining the others in exhausted silence.

The Smugglers’ Pass

Using our experiences of the past few days as a gauge, we had already discussed how we thought this route might fare. Knowing this trail well, Woolley and I expected hardship, particularly towards the top of the climb, and we were prepared to dig our way though a foot at a

time if needed. We all agreed that, come hell or high water, we would enter Andorra via the Smugglers’ Pass, even if it meant camping on the mountain overnight and continuing the attempt over several days. The final leg began at the village of Tor, elevation 5,775 feet. With conditions similar to what we’d experienced in the previous days, reaching the trailhead was a challenge in itself. Near where the Rabassa River meets the Vallpeguera Ravine, the tiny village nestles, untouched by modern society. The enigmatic dwellings are deserted during the harsh winter months, and the late snows had prevented the return of its inhabitants. Stopping for coffee and a chat would have to wait for another trip. The path through the village rises towards the remains of the 10th-century castle, once used to watch over this route until the French destroyed it in the 16th Century. We’d been told that the Smugglers’ Pass was still impassible, but we intended on opening it. Though it was 2,300 feet above us and 5 miles away as the crow flies, we had one goal in mind: reaching the Andorran border. Soon after fording the Rabassa River we settled into the normal drive-dig-recover routine. Initially, it was sticky mud that slowed progress. But both vehicles were equipped with rear lockers—the Utility with front lockers as well—which helped to maintain traction even in the deepest ruts. However, locking the differential in snow is not always beneficial, as it can cause a sideways slide in an already seat-clenching moment. The Defenders were generally left unlocked. The 90 continued making reasonable progress, punching into the fresh fall, halting when the buildup grew too much for the truck to push further. Each time Chris pulled back for the next charge, I dug in with the shovel, breaking down the lip at the front of the rut. Endless repetition of this backbreaking procedure over the next few hours gained us real progress. With every foot climbed, our energy levels and the number of trees (our winch points) waned. The 90’s cable was completely shredded by this point and had finally been rendered useless. With a good spool of synthetic rope, the 110 took the lead, allowing the 90 to follow in its tire tracks. A shout from behind alerted us to Chris’ new predicament. He had attempted to drive through a sidehill drift and had lost the back end over the edge. Had there not been a curious, but appreciated, concrete block wedged against the rock slider, he may have tested the efficacy of his roll cage. After some digging and strategic waffle board adjustment, we managed to recover the Defender safely. This potentially disastrous moment confirmed that it was foolish to continue without a second winch. The weather was turning and conditions grew colder, and it became clear that we would not make the pass in one day. As night began to fall, we needed to make a decision: Do we camp here or turn back? Chris set up the Coleman and defrosted a chicken curry whilst we took stock of the situation. Dave’s sterling efforts with the shovel were taking their toll. He was severely fatigued, his feet wet and cold, and it became evident that his body temperature needed to be restored. We ordered him inside the Webasto-warmed Utility to thaw his blue feet and fill up with curry. Woolley investigated replacing Chris’ damaged cable with our spare synthetic rope, whilst I went ahead on foot to recce the next section. Less than one mile from the border…we were so close. But that mile included 650 feet in elevation gain, and conditions were not going to ease. When I returned, Woolley explained that the Mile Marker winch wasn’t suitable for synthetic rope without changing the roller fairlead to

a hawse. It was decided that we simply didn’t have the suitable equipment to conquer the final leg of this route. With full bellies and heavy hearts, we turned about and trudged slowly down the pass in search of shelter. Every inch we retraced was as exhilarating as it was hazardous, and a proud reminder of how hard we had fought to reach this point. We hadn’t made it, but we had given it every ounce of effort our bodies would allow. I began to wonder about the people who used this route throughout the last century. As the name suggests, it was part of an important smuggling route between Vichy, France and Spain during World War II and the Spanish Civil War, acting as a platform through which to supply warring nations. With so much at stake, I don’t imagine those smugglers ever had the option to turn back.

Andorra

Entering Andorra via the normal border control on an asphalt road is a far less romantic entrance. However, the tiny tax haven was a welcoming respite, and presented a natural break in the schedule. From a luxurious campsite on the edge of the capital city, there were obvious signs that Andorra is a prosperous country with a high standard of living. We took a morning out to explore the country’s heartbeat, the city of Andorra la Vella, before contacting a local friend, Albert Cabanes, a local supplier of 4WD gear and co-organizer of the prestigious Xtreme Andorra event. Albert was delighted to see us and impressed (or amused, I couldn’t tell) that we had attempted the routes that we had. He provided Chris with a synthetic rope and proper fairlead, and lent us a map with a route for us to explore the following day; one that would be less likely to present us with snow troubles.

Dave’s sterling efforts with the shovel were taking their toll. He was severely fatigued, his feet wet and cold, and it became evident that his body temperature needed to be restored.

Clearing a fallen tree with axes and a chainsaw created an interesting challenge. Opposite: Wet mud beneath the snow was tackled by engaging front and rear lockers.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

The towering snow-capped peaks and verdant valleys around Andorra are spectacular, and it was a pleasure to discover some new terrain. We made good progress before encountering yet more deep, offcamber snowdrifts—and additional terrifying moments. Within 500 feet of the summit, and a sunnier, snowless descent on the other side, the telltale sound of a breaking half shaft echoed up the trail. Challenge number 148 (or so it seemed) was to U-turn a three-wheel drive D90 on a narrow, snow-covered track.

Within 500 feet of the summit, and a sunnier, snowless descent on the other side, the telltale sound of a breaking half shaft echoed up the trail.

After a bit of head scratching, an inventive pulley system began to take shape. The 90 was in the front and would be the first vehicle to turn. A snatch block and tree strap created the necessary angle to connect the 110’s winch to the rear cross member of the 90, whose own winch rope was extended and connected to the recovery point at the front of the 110. Demonstrating amazing hand-eye coordination, Chris operated both winch remote controls; drawing backwards on the Utility’s cable, then releasing and taking up the slack with the Mile Marker. The combined dynamics forced the 90 to pivot around its center point. We then applied a similar system to the 110. The process was akin to a Defender ballet. In contrast to the beginning of the expedition, silent, almost telepathic communication now had the group working effectively as a team. Back in Andorra la Vella, Albert sourced a replacement half shaft for the 90. We turned our backs to the High Pyrenees, leaving Andorra via La Rabassa, gently descending to the lower pastures of the verdant Cerdanya Valley. Warmer, snowless conditions were a pleasant contrast to the brutality of the past week. But somehow, there was a little excitement missing. Our team had bonded strongly, and it would be safe to say that our virgin overlanders had gained more experience on their maiden voyage than most would find in a lifetime. In contrast to my glamper impressions on that first, nerve-wracking day, I would now go anywhere with these guys. Though it was still early in the day, the perfect wild camp spot presented itself and we figured it would be rude to pass it by. Setting up camp was a quick process. Woolley and I had become accustomed to sleeping out in the open, whilst Dave and Chris set up the tipi. With our backs to the snowy peaks that had strained us so profoundly, we enjoyed a cold beer whilst watching the warm afternoon sun cast long shadows across the valley. I threw down a Therm-a-Rest and lay with my face soaking up the sun, thinking back on everything that we had encountered, the battles we won, those we lost, and the lessons learned. Wonderful moments. There are none better than these. U.K.-based Mudrut specializes in 4WD adventure tours to the Pyrenees and Arctic Circle. mudrut.co.uk, +44(0)129-925-1650

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Turning around after a broken half shaft was crazy, but it was our only option.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Pyrenees Trip

Route

Cartography by David Medeiros (mapbliss.com)

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Bonne Nuit For a good night’s sleep, we test one of the most important pieces of overlanding gear…your bed. By Christophe Noel

Overland Journal Spring 2013

nd now I lay me down to sleep…or possibly to toss, turn, grumble, and groan, hoping that fatigue will eventually win out over discomfort and deliver me to the dreamy reprieve of REM sleep. If you travel long enough, or even just once, a restless night’s sleep will eventually find you. With long days on the trail, travelers become weary and the only remedy is a proper rest. Should lumpy or frozen ground conspire to keep you counting sheep all night, chances are that as morning arrives it will take far more than strong coffee to get you going. Central to a good sleep are basic comforts: shelter to keep you dry, insulation to keep you warm, and unless you have something in common with the Bed of Nails performer at the circus, a comfortable sleeping surface is a must. During the past few years, the demand for improved sleeping pads has aligned with new technologies. The result has been an unprecedented crop of sleeping pads fit for the proverbial Princess and the Pea. If it’s comfort you seek, we’ve found eight sleeping pads sure to give you heavy eyelids.

Considerations

A sleeping pad has two primary functions, the first of which is to keep you insulated from the cold ground. This can be done by way of reflecting body heat towards the sleeper, or by creating an insulated dead space between the sleeper and the ground. It’s also important to consider the air created below the sleeper by the sleeping pad itself. If the pad creates an empty, cavernous space, that space can be cooled to ambient temperatures, effectively putting the sleeper on a cloud of frigid air. For this reason, large volume air-only mattresses make for terrible cold-weather platforms. The larger the air volume in the pad, the more important it is that space be filled with some form of insulation. The thermal value of any given sleeping pad is tricky to quantify. Some manufacturers will list thermal values—those measurements are far from standardized—but many do not. As a general rule, pads with a foam core, down or synthetic fiberfill, tend to provide the

Buying a Sleeping Pad?

Consider

A few things to

1 2 3

Large volume air-only mattresses do not make good cold-weather platforms. The larger the air volume in the pad, the more important it is that space be filled with some form of insulation. As a general rule, pads with a foam core, down or synthetic fiberfill, tend to provide the most insulation.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

most insulation. For this review, all but one of the pads are insulated and considered appropriate for nights when temperatures approach the freezing point. Warmth achieved, a sleeping pad must also create a cushy, comfy place to rest your tired bones. Pad comfort is first achieved by keeping you elevated above the hard, lumpy, pokey ground below. It also needs to afford your back and neck the proper amount of curvature to keep your body aligned, or at least close enough so that you don’t wake up feeling like you’ve been strapped to a plank. For most individuals, attaining ergonomic curvature of the back, shoulders, and neck requires only a few inches of pad thickness. Pads with less than 2 inches of thickness run the risk of being little more than a slightly soft place to lie down. The sweet spot is somewhere between 3-5 inches of thickness. However, there’s more to this than just thickness. How the pad is constructed contributes directly to how comfortable and stable it is. As an example, a pad with welded baffles running the length of the pad may feel “tippy” as the sleeper rolls side to side. Baffles running across the width of the pad tend to feel more stable. Some pads can be combined with memory foam, or open-cell foam covers to augment the cushy factor. Those covers provide optimal warm-weather sleeping surfaces, as they wick moisture and improve airflow beneath the sleeper. Because these pads are intended to be transported, it’s equally important to consider packed size. Some travelers have the space, or are willing to create the space, to stow very large pads. Other travelers may have less cargo volume and need to find a pad that packs down to a small bundle; hopefully without sacrificing comfort. We have included pads best suited for all forms of travel, including motorcycle and bicycle travel where comfort and stowed size are equally important considerations.

Evaluations

Evaluating sleeping pads is a tricky business, and there will never be a perfect pad for all applications. Every traveler has different selection criteria that will ultimately steer him or her to one pad or another. However, it’s possible to critique a pad based on the execution of design objectives. Packed size, inflation and deflation times, as well as the ease of those procedures, are also considerations. Even little frustrations like wiggling a pad back into a stuff sack can become major annoyances on a lengthy trip. In many pads, the potential weakness may be within the valve. We assessed not only the valve’s ability to transfer air quickly, but to keep that air contained without leaks or potential failures. Context and intended use of each pad served to guide our evaluations. Naturally, a sub 1-pound pad made of ripstop nylon will not be as durable as a 10-pound pad constructed of PVC coated polyester, so we did have to evaluate each pad within the context of its intended use. Lastly, given this is an Overland Journal review, we also placed a high value on build quality, durability and the x-factor of product support. These pads represent the best of the very best.

Clockwise from top: The Princess and the Pea shot. Sleeping pads from top to bottom: Klymit Inertia XL, NEMO Equipment Tuo Standard, Big Agnes Q-Core, NEMO Equipment Cosmo Insulated, Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Dream, Jack’s Plastic Welding Paco Grande, Therm-a-Rest MondoKing XXL, and the Exped MegaMat 10 LXW. A critical consideration is the ease of inflation and deflation. The MondoKing XXL requires a lot of time and effort to deflate. During the test phase, we came to appreciate pads that didn’t require excessive effort to get the pad in the stuff sack. The Klymit pad slipped in the included stuff sack with ease.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Therm-a-Rest MondoKing XXL

$189

Pros:

• Well insulated • Excellent warranty • Extremely comfortable

Cons:

or the past 35 years, Therm-a-Rest branded pads have been a staple of the backcountry. For 2013, the MondoKing XXL pushes their legacy ever forward and raises the bar ever higher. Boasting a plump 4 inches of thickness, it is remarkably comfortable. At 80 inches long and 31 inches wide, it’s half the width of a queensized bed. As the name would imply, this pad is indeed mondo. Because the MondoKing XXL is foam-filled, it qualifies as a self-inflating pad. Simply roll out the pad and open the two threaded valves. As the foam expands, it draws air in. Like all selfinflating pads it will need to be topped off with a few breaths to achieve your desired level of inflation, but this comes with minimal effort. That’s not the only advantage of having 4 inches of foam inside the pad. Foam makes for a wonderful insulator and this is one of the warmest pads on the market. Plop it down on frozen ground or snow, and worry not that cold air from below will threaten your slumber. For the overlander, the MondoKing XXL promises to be a durable and convenient option. The 75-denier ripstop nylon will resist punctures and abrasions, and the unique dual-valve system keeps inflation and deflation times to a minimum. Inflation of the pad required only two minutes and was literally effortless. Deflation, even with two valves expelling air, took upwards of five minutes to get packed away. Not that it was tough to get all the air out, or that it was a struggle to get the pad rolled up, but it did take some doing. Slipping the pad into the generously sized stuff sack was quick and easy. The packed size, however, may prove problematic for some travelers. At over 9 pounds and 31 inches long, and with a 7.5 inch diameter, this is not a compact pad by any stretch. It should also be mentioned that the Therm-a-Rest warranty is without equal. They back their pads for life, and they mean it. Stuff sack and patch kit included. cascadedesigns.com, 206-505-9500

The MondoKing XXL has dual valves. Packed dimensions are 9 by 31 inches.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

• Slow and laborious to deflate • Large packed size

Exped MegaMat 10 LXW

$218

Pros:

• Very comfortable • Excellent quality • Easy to inflate • Easily slips into stuff sack

Cons:

• Deflation slow and laborious • You won’t want to get out of bed • Cost

e can skip to the chase and confidently declare the Exped MegaMat 10 LXW as the most comfortable sleeping pad we’ve ever tested. It’s almost unfair to call it a pad, as it sleeps like a proper bed. Each of our testers, who didn’t just lay down on it, but rather melted onto it in a puddle of blissful relaxation, reacted the same to the MegaMat. Almost every first response was, “oh, yeah, this is nice.” It’s a marvel of sleep engineering with several creative elements working together to create the ultimate in luxurious comfort. At the center of the MegaMat is 4 inches of open-cell foam. To reduce weight and packed size, the foam has horizontal cored channels that also add to its soft bed-like feel. The top of the pad is constructed of tricot nylon embossed with a honeycomb structure, giving the top of the pad a smooth hand. At 77 inches long and 30 inches wide, the MegaMat is already big. But the vertical sidewalls seem to increase the usable sleeping area even more. Many pads have a single welded seam at the perimeter, which creates sloped outer edges. This is not the case with the MegaMat and that seemingly innocuous feature is instantly noticeable. Though the MegaMat is self-inflating, it comes with an ingenious nylon foot pump. Inflation times as tested were just under three minutes. Given the large volume of air in the MegaMat, deflation does take considerable time, even with the oversized valve. That extra deflation time each morning may be worth it if comfort is your ultimate driver. Like the Mondo King XXL, this is not a small pad. Tucked neatly into its stuff sack it weighs 5 pounds, lighter than expected, but at 30 inches in length and a 9.5 inch diameter when packed, it’s a large item to stow. If nothing else, The MegaMat is mega comfortable. Stuff sack, pump, and repair kit included. exped.com, 866-326-4586

The MegaMat features a separate inflation and deflation valve. In the stuff sack, the MegaMat measures 9.5 by 30 inches. As well as a compact pump, the MegaMat came with the most comprehensive repair kit in the bunch.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Dream

$199 (Mini-pump $40)

Pros:

• Excellent option for warm climates • Small packed size • Excellent warranty • Quick to inflate and deflate

Cons:

e have featured NeoAir pads in previous issues of Overland Journal and have always been impressed with how such a small package can produce a comfortable night’s sleep. The Dream goes one step further, wrapping the already-comfortable NeoAir pad in a luxurious microfleece pillow-top cover and an additional inch of open-cell foam. The end result is a 4-inch modular pad system that not only packs small, but can be deconstructed to meet changing needs. If you’re headed off on a motorcycle or bicycle trip where space is a premium, simply slide the inner NeoAir pad out from the pillow top. The result is a tiny yet comfortable pad option. The addition of the pillow top is what really sets this pad apart from many of the others in this test. For those who find themselves in warmer climates, it’s common to sleep directly on top of a pad with little more than a light sheet or comforter. This usually puts the sleeper right on top of the non-breathable surface of an airtight sleeping pad. A pillow top creates a breathable, wicking surface on which to sleep. This helps keep the sleeper cool and dry. As the name would suggest, NeoAir systems are filled with nothing but air. As such, these are not self-inflating pads. Most of us breathe all day, so sharing a few breaths with your pad isn’t really a big deal. We found the NeoAir easy to manually inflate in just a few minutes. The Dream does come with a clever storage sack that doubles as a pump to aid inflation, but we found this method clumsy at best. The most convenient means of inflation is the optional battery powered NeoAir Mini Pump ($40); it will have your pad topped off in about 90 seconds. Deflation of the Dream takes no time at all. Packed size is quite small for the level of comfort this system achieves. Repair kit included. cascadedesigns.com, 206-505-9500

The standard NeoAir Dream valve works with their tiny electric pump. Packed size is suitable for vehicle travel. The new 65-gram electric pump from Therm-a-Rest is impressive. This pocket-sized pump can inflate the NeoAir Dream in about three to four minutes. Two AA batteries provide power for this quiet and convenient unit.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

• Slightly noisy when shifting around • Clumsy pump sack • Cost (with Mini-pump)

Jack’s Plastic Welding Paco Grande

$270

Pros:

• Unparalleled durability • Easy inflation • Excellent warranty

Cons:

• Slightly stiff sleeping surface • A little crinkly sounding • Cost

iver rafters and overlanders have much in common. Among those things are an appreciation for camp comfort and a desire for durable, if not bomb-proof equipment. With that, we present to you a favorite of the rafting world and the brick house of sleeping pads, the Paco Grande. To say a Paco pad is heavy duty is a gross understatement. These pads double as rafts, sleds, and often get beaten and bounced around the confines of a white water raft for years on end. Overlanders are beginning to see the allure of the Paco Grande as a dependable solution for extended adventures to far off destinations where equipment failures are best minimized. Made in Aztec, New Mexico, the Paco Grande is 72 inches long, 27 inches wide, and 3 inches thick. Constructed of industrial-strength PVC, the same material used to make inflatable rafts, the Paco Grande is waterproof and highly abrasion resistant. At 10 pounds, this isn’t a lightweight pad, but it does roll up to a surprisingly small bundle for its heft. Brass grommets and reinforced welds give confidence that this is a product built to last the ages. Inflation of the Paco Grande is impressive. Roll out the pad, open the two valves, and the pad inhales with an audible whoosh. Within a minute it’s fully inflated. Deflation takes a little muscle, but doesn’t require much more than a couple minutes to fully stow. Two heavy straps keep the pad neatly packaged. As a sleeping surface, the Paco Grande might strike some as a little clunky and stiff, but those are the trade-offs for a pad built for maximum durability. This being said, it’s a very comfortable pad and a favorite option for those looking for a mattress for a camp cot. jpwinc.com, 800-742-1904

The large dual valves of the Paco Grande move a lot of air in little time. Sturdy straps keep the 10.5 by 27-inch roll securely stowed.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

NEMO Equipment Cosmo Insulated $170

(Pillow Top $99)

Pros:

• Very versatile • Built-in foot pump • Great in warm or cold climates • Small packed size

Cons:

he other modular system in this review, the Cosmo Insulated pad with optional Pillow Top, has long been a favorite of the Overland Journal team. From Baja to Siberia, Cosmo pads have proven reliable and comfortable in the most extreme conditions. The Cosmo Insulated pad is a perfect cold weather pad, as it features a thin layer of synthetic insulation designed to protect the sleeper from convective cold air within the pad. Frozen ground or snow is no problem for the Cosmo. The optional Pillow Top takes an already sublime sleeping experience and makes it even better. The 1-inch layer of perforated open-cell foam beneath a microsuede cover creates a breathable and plush sleeping surface. This is a highly redeeming quality when sleeping directly on the pad in warmer temperatures. With a combined thickness of 4 inches, this is an incredibly comfortable system. The 76- by 25-inch dimension offers ample area for even the largest of sleepers. Horizontal baffles create a stable platform and the oversized baffle at the head of the pad serves as a pillow. With a combined weight of less than 5 pounds, the Cosmo Insulated with Pillow Top is impressively light and compact when rolled up. Like the NeoAir Dream, the inner pad can be separated from the Pillow Top to reduce packed size as needed. A feature that sets this air-filled pad apart from the others in the test is the brilliantly conceived built-in foot pump. Compressing the pump only 60 times in as many seconds results in a fully inflated pad. Deflation is also quick and easy. We were able to pack away the Cosmo in just a couple minutes with very little effort. Repair kit and stuff sack included. nemoequipment.com, 800-997-9301

Dedicated inflation valves in the built-in foot pump are very solid. Packed dimensions are 11.5 by 25 inches.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

• Cost (with Pillow Top)

Big Agnes Q-Core $139

Pros:

• Comfortable quilted baffles • Oversized outer baffles • Excellent value

Cons:

• Stuff sack is small and delicate • No pump included

ew in 2012, the Q-Core is the latest variation in the highly successful inflatable pad lineup from Big Agnes of Steamboat Springs, Colorado. The most noticeable feature of the Q-Core is the unique quilting of the baffles. Traditionally, Big Agnes pads have been constructed with longitudinal baffles running the length of the pad. Some argue this construction creates instability in the pad as the sleeper shifts from side to side. The quilted baffling does wonders to reduce that wobbly feeling. The outer baffles of the Q-Core are oversized, augmenting stability; it’s not easy to roll off this pad. The edges of the pad are well defined, the center is nice and comfortable, and the overall sleeping experience is exceptional. The quilted construction alone is worth the reasonable asking price of the Q-Core, but that’s not its only feature. This is a fully insulated pad. Filled with X-Static synthetic fill, the Q-Core is an appropriate pad for four-season use, even in freezing temperatures. For our test, we opted for a standard sized pad. At 72 inches long, 20 inches wide, and 3.5 inches thick, this is one of the narrower pads in our test. The most remarkable dimension is the packed size. Weighing in at only 27 ounces, the Q-Core we tested was as light as the proverbial feather. Packed size was slightly larger than a 1-liter water bottle. This is the type of pad that would simply vanish in the cavernous hollows of a motorcycle pannier. Inflation is straightforward and under manual lungpower was achieved in two minutes with moderate effort. Deflation was extremely quick and easy. If space is a concern, there’s no need to sacrifice comfort with the QCore. The price is also impressive. Stuff sack and repair kit included. bigagnes.com, 877-554-8975

The Q-Core’s valve is easy to operate and works with many pumps on the market.The Q-Core has one of the smallest stowed dimensions in the test.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

NEMO Equipment Tuo Standard

$99

Pros:

• Two-chamber system • Very well insulated • Excellent value • Cost

Cons:

hat’s better than one foam-filled pad? Tuo foam-filled pads stuck together. As we have come to expect from NEMO Equipment, the Tuo Standard is another solution from outside the box. It’s literally a pair of pads bonded one on top of the other, each section with its own valve. This provides a couple of unique advantages. Most obviously, it creates a backup in the event of a mid-sleep puncture. It also allows the lower section to be highly inflated to reduce the protrusion of lumps, rocks, roots, and other surface irregularities. The upper section can then be lightly inflated to create a softer primary surface. Lastly, because the Tuo Standard has a divided 1.6 inches of foam, we found the insulation value to be more than enough to protect the sleeper from frozen ground or snow. The 72-inch length and 20-inch width may seem minimal, but that is generally considered the standard dimensions for a more traditional backcountry pad. It’s obvious Tuo Standard will never rival the comfort of pads like its counterpart, the Cosmo Insulated, but it excels with its reduced size. Tipping the scales at 2.2 pounds, the packed size is roughly half that of the Cosmo Insulated with Pillow Top. Again, this is another excellent option for the motorcycle or bicycle traveler looking for compact comfort at an affordable price. In use, the Tuo Standard is very convenient. Being self-inflating, getting air into the twin chambers is as easy as opening the valves and walking away. Topping off the pad to a desired pressure only took a couple of additional breaths, and deflation was just as easy. This is a thin pad, so sleepers (especially side sleepers with broad shoulders or hips) may find the comfort level a bit austere. It’s not the lightest pad in the test, nor is it the thickest. However, it’s curiously comfortable, and undeniably warm. Stuff sack and repair kit included. nemoequipment.com, 800-997-9301

Dual valves help adjust pressure in the pad’s twin air chambers. The packed size of the Tuo lends well to dual-sport travel.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

• Smaller sleeping area • Thinner than other pads in the test

Klymit Inertia XL

$129

Pros:

• Compact size • Super lightweight • Impressive comfort for its size • Cost

Cons:

• Reduced insulation value • Might be too thin for some sleepers

ne look at the Inertia XL is all it takes to know that Klymit is working within a different set of design criteria: It’s not immediately obvious that this is even a sleeping pad. Central to the design of the Inertia XL is the idea to take any excess pad material and literally cut it out. If it looks unrecognizable as a sleeping pad when inflated, you have to see it packed away in its stuff sack. A shade over 1 pound in total weight, the packed size of the Inertia XL is just about the size of your favorite bottle of beer. It’s astoundingly small…pocket sized. For a bicycle or motorcycle traveler with critical space limitations, this is a great sleeping option. There are a couple of unique elements to the Inertia XL that are not immediately obvious. The cut-out sections are not just a means of reducing weight—those voids are actually Loft Pockets. The idea being to allow your sleeping bag’s insulation to fill those small spaces to better insulate you from the cold ground. The sophisticated construction of the baffles is arranged to offer maximum protection at key contact points, or in sleeping pad terms, body mapping. The baffles vary in thickness and shape, most noticeably at the built-in pillow and along the perimeter. What surprised us most was how well our tallest sleeper fit on the Inertia XL. The 77-inch length and 25-inch width are rare for pads in the ultra-light category. Perhaps most unexpected was the level of comfort, which still defies reason. Given the low-air volume of the Inertia XL, inflation and deflation takes but a handful of seconds. A small bulb pump and bleed valve make changes to the inflation level extremely quick and easy. Overall, it’s a fantastic piece of engineering. Stuff sack, repair kit and pump included. klymit.com, 888-559-6481

The Inertia XL isn’t very thick, but is surprisingly comfortable. The built-in pillow contributes to that comfort. Stowed size is smaller than a 2-liter bottle of water. The small bulb pump and bleed valve are cleverly designed to make micro-adjustments to the pad’s pressure quick and easy.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Conclusions

uring the course of this review, it became increasingly obvious there is no one-pad-fits-all choice. But there are perfect pads for individual needs. There is no question which of the pads we tested was the most comfortable. That honor, as well as the Editor’s Choice Award, goes to the Exped MegaMat 10 LXW. If you can accommodate the bulk, and don’t mind the extra time to inflate and deflate it, there is no better sleeping experience. The most versatile and full-featured system in the test was clearly the Cosmo Insulated with optional Pillow Top. Being able to use just the pad without the Pillow Top when space limitations are a concern earned high marks. The built-in foot pump is an added bonus. Capable of keeping you cool in summer and warm in winter, the Cosmo Insulated is a great four-season solution. The Paco Grande cannot be overlooked as the most durable pad we’ve seen. Its compact size and utility will make it an instant classic within the overlanding crowd. It’s no wonder why the Paco following is so large and loyal. The Klymit Inertia XL is a triumph of design. It isn’t for everyone, but taken for what it is, it’s amazing. If your trips are a string of hotel stays with the occasional evening on the ground, or space in your panniers is at a premium, the pint-sized Inertia XL is a worthy option. As you may have noticed, some of these pads command a considerable price. Just a few years ago, the hundred-dollar mark seemed

borderline offensive for a good sleeping pad. The Big Agnes Q-Core still isn’t a budget pad, but the comfort to dollar ratio easily earned it the Value Award. Another excellent value, the Tuo Standard is not a pad best described with superlatives. It’s not the lightest, smallest, thickest or even most comfortable. It is nonetheless, smartly designed, and likely accommodates all the demands many sleepers require of a quality pad. Within this select group of premium pads, we would be remiss not to pay homage to the brand that started it all, Therm-a-Rest. The MondoKing XXL and NeoAir Dream prove once again that Therm-a-Rest is still the pad by which all others are measured. The competition is tough these days, but those two pads deserve high praise. The Mondo King XXL came in at a very close second as the most comfortable and stable pad in the test. The NeoAir Dream might be the most complexly engineered pad in the test and is a tough one to beat if optimal comfort needs to be offset by minimal size. These are all excellent pads. There’s not a bad one in the bunch. In the end, the clear winner is the pad that works best for you. In a world where everyone clamors to attach qualifiers to products like good, better, and best, this is just not possible for sleeping pads. As was true for Goldilocks and the Three Bears, you have to apply your own criteria for the pad that you think is just right.

Sleeping Pad Comparison Manufacturer

Therm-a-Rest

Exped

Therm-a-Rest

Jack's Plastic Welding

Model

MondoKing XXL

MegaMat 10 LXW

NeoAir Dream

Paco Grande

Price (MSRP in USD)

$189

$218

$199

$270

Dimensions (HxWxL) (in/mm) 4 x 31 x 80 / 100 x 790 x 2030 4 x 30 x 77 / 100 x 760 x 1960 4 x 25 x 77 / 100 x 640 x 1960 3 x 27 x 72 / 76 x 690 x 1830 Weight (lb/kg)

9 / 4.1

5 / 2.3

4.7 / 2.0

10 / 4.5

Packed size (roll) (in/mm)

7.5 x 31 / 190 x 790

9.5 x 30 / 240 x 760

11 x 25 / 270 x 640

10.5 x 27 / 270 x 690

Insulation

Open-cell foam

Inflation

Self-inflating

Self-inflating / pump-assisted

Manual (optional pump $40)

Self-inflating

Included accessories

Stuff sack, repair kit

Stuff sack, repair kit, pump

Stuff sack, repair kit

none

Country of manufacture

USA

Taiwan

USA

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Sleeping Pad Comparison

(continued)

Manufacturer

NEMO Equipment

Big Agnes

NEMO Equipment

Klymit

Model

Cosmo Insulated/Pillow Top

Q-Core

Tuo Standard

Inertia XL

Price (MSRP in USD)

$170 / $99

$139

$99

$129

Dimensions (HxWxL) (in/mm) 3 x 25 x 76, 1 x 25 x 76 / 80 x 640 x 1930, 25 x 640 x 1930

3.5 x 20 x 72 / 90 x 510 x 1830

1.6 x 20 x 72 / 40 x 510 x 1830

1.5 x 25 x 77 / 40 x 640 x 1960

Weight (lb/kg)

2.2 / 2.2, 1.0 / 1.0

1.11 / .5

2.3 / 1.0

1.8 / .7

Packed size (roll) (in/mm)

11.5 x 25 / 290 x 640 (w/Pillow Top)

5.5 x 10 / 140 x 250

12.5 x 7 / 320 x 180

4 x 8.5 / 100 x 220

Insulation

Primaloft

X-Static synthetic fill

Dual layer open-cell foam

none

Inflation

Built-in foot pump

Manual

Self-inflating

Manual with pump adjust

Included accessories

Stuff sack, repair kit

Stuff sack, repair kit, pump

Country of manufacture

China

Taiwan

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Lati tude Juxtaposition

Oksana Perkins 47° N

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Nick Dimbleby, Land Rover 31° N Overland Journal Spring 2013

Barry Andrews 63° N Overland Journal Spring 2013

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Scott Brady 33° N Overland Journal Spring 2013

Isaac Taylor 17° N

Overland Journal Spring 2013

H istoric Overland Journeys Poison arrows, shrunken heads, brothels, and 20,000 miles on a BMW R60.

Two Wheels to Adventure The story of Danny Liska, the first man to ride a motorcycle the length of the Americas. By Lois Pryce

Overland Journal Spring 2013

anny Liska was the everyman’s motorcycle adventurer: a man from humble beginnings, driven by a thirst for the unknown and the exotic. He is an inspiration for every small-town boy who has ever watched a motorcycle roar past his bedroom window and longed to take off for faraway lands. In 1959, at age 30, Danny Liska left his hometown in Nebraska on a BMW R60, becoming the first person to ride a motorcycle the length of the Americas. In the style of a true purist, he went first to Arctic Circle City (then the most northerly road-accessible town in Alaska) to begin his epic journey. Two years and 65,000 miles later he arrived in Ushuaia, at the tip of Argentina, the most southerly town in the world that can be reached by road. Liska’s book about his journey, Two Wheels to Adventure, has become a classic of motorcycle literature. Penned in the 1960s, it was not published until 1989 and was reprinted in 2004. Original copies now sell for hundreds of dollars. It’s a great, rip-roaring read accompanied by fabulous photos, illustrations, and maps. Franklywritten, the book tells of his adventures along the Pan-American Highway and his incredible trek through the jungle of the notorious Darien Gap. Along the way he is attacked by Indian tribesmen, has his blood sucked by vampire bats, contracts malaria, and even ends up working as a body double for Yul Brynner. Like all grand adventures, there is a cast of fantastically inglorious characters, a handful of loose women, some hard times, high jinks, a dash of desperation, and a very complicated love life. But first, let’s go back to the beginning… Danny Liska was born in the small town of Niobrara, Nebraska in 1929, the son of Czech immigrant parents. He was brought up on the family farm, and along with his brothers, was soon toiling away on the land. Like many young men in his situation, he worked hard and spent his spare time hunting, fishing, horseback riding, and playing sports. At the age of 21 he married a local girl, Arlene, and had he been any kind of regular guy, he would have probably considered this to be his lot in life. But there were two significant factors that turned Danny Liska from country hick into global motorcycle adventurer and author. The first was an advertising booklet that came in the mail when he was 12 years old. It was from Standard Oil and featured an illustrated map of the Pan-American Highway. Grizzly bears, moose, and Eskimos decorated Alaska; Mounties and totem poles in the Yukon; and over Mexico, men in big hats rode little donkeys. Following the red line on the map indicating the Pan-American Highway, things got even more exciting. Volcanoes, parrots, shrunken heads, barefoot Indians, llamas, and gauchos lined the route to the tip of South America. Little did the art director at Standard Oil know what he was setting into motion when he envisaged this design. As Danny Liska shares his mounting passion for adventure in the prologue of his book: “I let no-one see the booklet, but kept it for my very own. When nobody was watching, I would pull it out from beneath my bed, and over and over again plan my life of adventure along the longest road in the world – from the northernmost wastes of Alaska to the southern tip of South America.”

The second factor in Liska’s bid for freedom was, of course, the purchase of a motorcycle. His first ride was a 74cc 1936 Harley that he bought for 250 dollars at age 16. He rode it the 75 miles back home and arrived “feeling like the best damned motorcyclist in the world.” Within two days he had broken his brother’s collarbone while giving him a ride. With the discovery that the family insurance policy didn’t cover motorcycle injuries, young Danny Liska suddenly found himself with a lot of extra farm chores. But his enthusiasm for twowheeled adventure was by no means dented. “My motorcycle love affair had begun” he writes in his book, “and I found out that without a motorcycle, life was not worth living.” He soon graduated to a larger Harley and became a self-confessed loner, taking every opportunity to ride as far afield as possible, including a couple of forays into Mexico. But by 1951 he was married to Arlene and, if his family had their way, he should have been settling down to work the farm. Instead, he bought a BMW R60 and headed north to Alaska. In 1959 the Alaska-Canada Highway (ALCAN) was still a largely unpaved road crossing a harsh and remote part of the world. Lone motorcyclists were a rare sight and everyone he met was full of The Standard Oil promotional map that inspired the young Danny Liska to become a motorcycle adventurer. Opposite: Adventure motorcycling in the 50s; ineffective waterproofs, leather panniers, and furry gloves. Opening page: Liska’s BMW R-60, hitching a ride on a passenger boat in the Caribbean. Overland Journal Spring 2013

doom about his ambition to continue north to Alaska. Even upon arriving in Arctic Circle City, where he hoped that at least the Native Americans would be sympathetic to his wanderlust, they too shook their heads, peered at his Nebraska license plate and pointed at him, proclaiming, “Him CRAZY!” But, as any motorcycle traveller knows, ignoring the finger-wagging naysayers is an essential feature of any expedition. Danny Liska was certainly not one to be put off by such lily-livered killjoys. Arctic Circle City was his first experience of another phenomenon that long distance riders will know well—reconciling the reality of your destination with the fantasy you have created during those long, hard hours in the saddle. When Liska rolled into town, roadweary but triumphant, he was expecting, or at least hoping for, “a dozen saloons where cigar-chewing men pounded pianos and mascaraed women danced, sang and flirted with lusty males.” What he found was in fact one lone structure with ‘Arctic Circle Trading Post’ painted on its shabby front. It did have a saloon tacked on the side but the dancing girls were nowhere to be seen and its only inhabitants were a couple of old Indian men sipping beer, who ignored him. But Liska already had his sights on the bigger picture. He promptly rode his bike to the banks of the Yukon River, dipped the front wheel into the icy water and headed back the way he had come. He knew that the true adventure he craved was waiting for him, south of the border. And besides, in the time-honoured fashion of budding adventurers everywhere, he had spent a drunken night in Alaska mouthing-off to a newspaper man who had splashed his audacious intentions all over the local rag. So now, he had to go! However, there was one slight problem; or at least, most men would have considered it a problem. He had a wife at home, Arlene, who was under the impression that he had merely gone for a ride to Alaska and would be back home soon. Liska did return to the farm on his way south, but by his own admission, “Most of the magic had gone out of my marriage and neither the connubial hearth, nor the mundane toil of ranch life could match the promise of adventure.” So one day he just slipped away. As he tells in his book, “My motorcycle smuggled me away from the ranch one afternoon. Sharing my intentions with no-one, I simply packed my gear on my machine and rode off. I felt no guilt because I knew the time had come to answer the gypsy call; my BMW and I headed southward towards Mexico.” One can’t help but wonder what Arlene made of this? Judging from interviews she has given over the years, it seems she wasn’t that surprised. “He’d get some weird ideas, and sometimes I’d go into town and when I’d come home, he’d be gone,” she says. Although Danny Liska thought he had finally broken free from the “flimsy moorings of his conventional life,” it turned out that he hadn’t seen the last of Arlene just yet. More on that later. As you may have surmised by now, Danny Liska was a man’s man, a proper old-fashioned, unreconstructed male. He comes across as a strong-willed character who wears his heart on his sleeve and is quick to recognise his weaknesses and failings, as much as his strengths and triumphs. His book, probably due to it having been written in the 60s, verges on comical in its lack of political correctness. He is excessively interested in the workings of Latin American brothels (although visits them for research purposes only…), gives detailed reports on the shape, size, and quality of every pair of breasts he Overland Journal Spring 2013

Danny’s human curiosity is insatiable, his grasp of cultural and political situations intelligent, and like the best travel writers, he relishes nothing more than immersing himself in the heart of every culture he encounters. encounters, and concludes that the finest prostitutes are to be found in El Salvador. (You won’t find that kind of travel tip in Fodor’s!) In keeping with the spirit of the age, he is also openly disdainful of what he considers to be the failings of the Latino race: poor timekeeping, insincerity, and a deceitful nature. Maybe some of this is due to the fact that throughout Central and South America he is constantly bombarded with anti-U.S. propaganda. Always keen to seek out the heart of the action, he joins revolutionary student protests in Mexico and El Salvador just for the hell of it, rising to the challenge when the mob begins shouting, “Cuba Si! Yanqui No!” He readily admits to enjoying the spectacle of a good street fight, and never shies away from the opportunity to get into an argument with the locals over politics, often with explosive results. In Colombia he tears down a pro-Castro poster in a barbershop and is chased down the road by a gang of hairdressers brandishing their cut-throat razors. The spectre of communism is a thread that runs through the book, an interesting reminder of how, in this era, Latin American countries were ripe for a left wing revolution as had recently occurred in Cuba. The fear comes across as slightly hysterical now, but it’s easy to forget how seriously the threat was considered at the time, and the parallel to the current War on Terror is obvious. But Danny Liska is no mindless oaf—more a product of his time. His human curiosity is insatiable, his grasp of cultural and political situations intelligent, and like the best travel writers, he relishes nothing more than immersing himself in the heart of every culture he encounters. He is drawn to the mysterious, the exotic, and the supernatural, and his nose for a good story outweighs any fear or discomfort that might hamper a less brave or inquisitive traveller. As his daughter Johanna told me, “He was always fascinated by people. If he heard a good story and he didn’t have a notepad with him he would write it down on his arm.” Thus we find Liska taking diversions to investigate the Danny Liska never missed an opportunity to go native. Opposite: Impressed with Liska’s BMW, this Colorado Chief offered a young woman and her three children in trade.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

voodoo rituals of the Negroes of Belize, searching for hidden gold bullion in a Nicaraguan cave, and even climbing Mexico’s volcanic Mount Popocatepetl in the hope that its magical powers will provide him with the strength to continue his journey. Fittingly, at the volcano’s summit the clouds part and the bubbling crater is revealed to him. “I had been given my sign!” he announces with all the fervour of a firebrand preacher. It’s this rapacious thirst for the weird and wonderful that makes Two Wheels to Adventure such a captivating read. This is no dreary log of fuel consumption and flat tyres, but a swashbuckling, junglehacking, death-defying, love ’em and leave ’em adventure tale that happens to take place on a motorcycle. But real life comes crashing back into Liska’s journey in Costa Rica when Arlene shows up, apparently out of the blue, and declares she’ll be joining him for the next leg of the trip. It turns out that he has been receiving funds from her on a regular basis—there were some obvious benefits to keeping in touch. Arlene gamely hops on the back of the BMW and they set off for what turns out to be the most grueling section of the ride so far. The Pan-American Highway was still under construction in the late ’50s and in Costa Rica the route was virtually impassable. Hampered by incessant tropical rains, and surviving on a diet of oranges and bananas, they spend five weeks battling their way across 39 river crossings, some so deep that the bike is almost entirely submerged. Other rivers are truly treacherous and require them to strap the BMW to the road-builders’ bulldozers or hitch a ride in a dugout canoe, providing the now legendary shot for the book cover. Arlene is knocked out of action with infected insect bites that eventually have to be treated, and she flies back to the U.S. for medical attention. Liska makes little of this turn of events, as by the time he is through Costa Rica he is utterly focused on the biggest challenge of his journey—the crossing of the Darien Gap. As is still the case more than 50 years later, the Pan-American Highway comes to a dead end in Panama. There remains an 80mile gap before the road starts again in northern Colombia. The infamous Darien Gap is known in Spanish as El Tapon, which literally translates to, “The Stopper.” It is a dense, almost impenetrable section of jungle inhabited only by hostile Indian tribes, smugglers, and fugitives. There are no roads available to Liska, just a tangle of obscure tracks and rivers where the natives pole their piraguas through the torrid, caiman-infested water while dodging poisoned arrows from rival tribes. Liska agonizes over the possibilities and options available to him in his typically dramatic style: “Take a plane to Colombia, my conscience pleaded, ‘NEVER!’ screamed the devil within me. Or take a boat, common sense suggested, ‘And die of shame!’” He walks the streets of Panama City all night and eventually comes to the daring decision that he will send his bike ahead by plane to Colombia and tackle the Darien Gap on foot. He fills his backpack with snake-bite kit, penicillin, salt and sugar, a hammock, camera and film, a two-day supply of food, a handful of garlic (that he puts in his shoes to ward off snakes), and

This is no dreary log of fuel consumption and flat tyres, but a swashbuckling, jungle-hacking, death-defying, love ’em and leave ’em adventure tale that happens to take place on a motorcycle.

With just a few inches of windshield above the waterline, Liska crosses one of the many deep rivers in Costa Rica. Opposite: The Kuna Indian guide and his son, complete with an iguana, who led Liska through the impenetrable jungle trails and rivers of the Darien. Overland Journal Spring 2013

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Top to bottom: Heading into headhunter country on a tri-motor Junker. Liska‘s Doctor Dolittle moment. With his pet parrot, Choco, and a friendly tapir. A stamp in Liska’s passport marking his entry into Colombia, the Darien Gap now behind him. Opposite: A page from Two Wheels to Adventure showing the location of the Darien Gap and Liska examining the Spanish-English sign that marks its start.

a machete. “Probably the most poorly equipped expedition to set foot in the Darien,” he declares, and off he goes into one of the most inhospitable regions on Earth. This is where the story really picks up pace and a large proportion of the book is devoted to his experience of crossing the Darien. As one would expect, the local people are quick to warn him about the dangers. But for once, he is also given some encouragement. Thomas Guardia, Panama’s top jungle engineer and road-building expert, assures Liska that the Darien is no longer impenetrable. But, he warns Liska, it is still the hostile and dangerous territory of the Kuna Indians, a tribe who shuns all communication with white men and have chased off many of Guardia’s staff; whom he claims, “were lucky to escape with their skin intact!” Liska finds a local guide with a dugout canoe who paddles him down the swollen rivers for the first part of his journey. Then he is handed over to a Kuna Indian, who, after much deliberation by the tribe, is permitted to guide him on foot over the mountains. They take a tortuous route, dodging snakes and hacking their way through the undergrowth with machetes. On arriving at the next Kuna settlement, the guide is taken away and tortured for committing the heinous crime of bringing a white man into their midst. Liska becomes angry with the Kunas for their hostility and constant demands for money. But he learns a lesson from the Kuna chief, who tells him, “You will have to show us your respect if you want to win ours.” This is something of a revelation to the swaggering Liska, and in a humble moment he acknowledges, “these words burned a permanent place in my mind.” It is a concept that stays with him throughout the rest of his travels. There is some respite from the menacing backdrop as he is transported by the more friendly Choco Indians through their territory, sailing down the river past caiman, jaguars, tapir, and iguanas. But when his guides finally leave him and he is truly alone for the first time, he is filled with fear and admits to feeling “more than a little bit lost.” The nearest road is over 200 miles away and he has no clear idea where he is; all he can do is follow the river and let the jungle “sweep me from Indian to Indian, from river to trail and trail to river.” By this point he has lost 30 pounds, is covered in insect bites, his hair is matted, his face gaunt and covered in scraggly whiskers. He’s also acquired a pet parrot, Choco, who has taken residence on his shoulder. Eventually Liska comes across the river town of El Real where he can buy food, machetes, and shotguns, all delivered by boat and traded with the locals for bananas and tropical wood. El Real must have made up for any disappointment Liska might still have been harbouring about Arctic Circle City. Here he hooks up with a colourful cast of

By this point Liska has lost 30 pounds, is covered in insect bites, his hair is matted, and his face gaunt and covered in scraggly whiskers.

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Liska hooks up with a colourful cast of smugglers and outlaws running contraband and guns, all presided over by a ‘shady Negro’ who offers him a ride downstream in their canoe and an invitation to join their illicit jungle trek.

smugglers and outlaws running contraband and guns, all presided over by a ‘shady Negro’ who offers him a ride downstream in their canoe and an invitation to join their illicit jungle trek. They are slightly delayed when one of the party is too ill to travel. But the leader gets around this problem by shooting the sick man in the night and throwing his body in the river. And off they go. Despite their sinister nature, Liska seems to appreciate his new cohorts. He is in his element now, living the life of the true adventurer, amongst his own kind, “Men strong, serious, with a definite purpose and a little bit desperate—that is the kind I admire.” After yet more gruelling travel, tramping up and down ravines through “merciless, soggy, black, brown, and green hell,” where he is attacked by vampire bats, has a close shave with a jaguar, and is forced to eat monkey feet, he finally reaches the Colombian town of Turbo at the southern edge of the Darien Gap. Here there are restaurants, hotels, and most significantly, roads. But he has difficulty adjusting to the “false standards” he sees around him. “Civilization, where oh where is thy lustre?” he wonders. The Darien Gap is behind him but it has changed him forever: “When a man has become intimate with a jungle it casts a spell over him; he later feels vacant and unsatisfied in the world beyond the jungle. The jungle does not recognize materialistic ideals; she wastes no time in stripping a man of his pretentiousness and hypocrisy.” As with so many triumphant feats, his achievement is not without a sense of anticlimax. Liska finds himself in Medellin on Christmas Eve 1960, broke, alone, and without his motorcycle. Even his beloved parrot has been stolen, and he confesses to shedding a tear as the clock strikes midnight.

Top to bottom: Flooded roads of Patagonia. Liska contemplates a traditional jungle snack, a monkey hand. Ice-riding in Patagonia. Opposite: After two years and 65,000 miles on the road, Liska arrives in Ushuaia, the southernmost town in the world. Overland Journal Spring 2013

But Danny Liska doesn’t stay down for long. He’s soon reunited with his BMW and on the road again. The continuation of his journey through South America is beset with troubles more common to the regular motorcycle traveller. His bags are stuck in customs in Panama, the bike suffers mechanical problems when the final drive unit collapses, and the bureaucratic headache of crossing borders without the correct paperwork sends him into fits of apoplectic rage at every frontier. As he ruefully points out, “To start out on a transcontinental motorcycle trip and play it all the way by ear might appear to smack of gallantry, but a little planning would have avoided a lot of trouble.” He wends his way down the Pan-Am Highway, meeting yet more colourful characters: a bearded German pushing a wheelbarrow who obtains his border stamps on a roll of toilet paper in lieu of a passport, and a rich Arab riding a BSA who is apparently seducing his way through the female population of South America. Liska continues largely unscathed, troubled only by the standard Latin American fare of homicidal bus drivers, rough roads, dysentery, and communists. He picks up a couple of shrunken heads in Ecuador, as well as a few other mementoes—poison-dart blowguns, bows and arrows, spears, canoe paddles and feathered headbands—creating yet another headache at customs when he tries to ship it all home. One can only imagine what Arlene made of the UPS man turning up with that lot. On the 23rd of August 1961, after a freezing, punishing haul through the Patagonian winter he finally arrives at the tip of South America. Liska puts into words what thousands of other motorcycle travellers have felt upon reaching their journey’s end. “There were no brass bands waiting as I made my way down from the mountains. There was a town ahead. Then there were buildings on either side of me. I suddenly realized I had arrived at Ushuaia, my destination—and a strange feeling of disappointment began to creep over me. There should have been one more flooding river to cross, one more dragon to slay. It was too easy that day. And even worse: I was here—and NOW WHAT?” Liska returned home to Nebraska in January 1962. But like many returning adventurers, he had tasted the freedom of life on the road and knew that he could never slot back into his old ways. Soon after, he and Arlene rode from Norway to South Africa, but the jungles of South America were calling him back. Upon visiting Colombia again, he met his second wife, Regina XI, a woman as equally fascinating and unconventional as himself, who claimed to have metaphysical powers and eventually ran for the Colombian presidency in 1994. With Regina, it seemed as though he had found his true destiny, and he devoted himself to supporting her work and to writing his books until his death in 1995. When Danny Liska set off in 1959, he took a childhood dream and turned it into a reality, blazing a trail for every motorcycle traveller since. Like all great explorers he was brave, verging on reckless, single-minded, and refused to take no for an answer. His accomplishments were many, but maybe his greatest achievement was that he escaped the mundane existence he was handed and turned his life into a true adventure.

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Top to bottom: Stuck in the mud in Patagonia. Quito, Ecuador, was known for shrunken heads. Though many were counterfeit, this one, from a young female, was authentic. Book: The classic cover of Two Wheels to Adventure. Danny Liska tackles a river crossing in Costa Rica.

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“I prefer the saddle to the streetcar and star-sprinkled sky to a roof, the obscure and difficult trail, leading

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into the unknown, to any paved highway, and the deep peace of the wild to the discontent bred by cities. . . it is enough that I am surrounded by beauty.” – Everett Ruess

Under the Star-Sprinkled Sky Overland Journal explores the Burr Trail and remote tracks of Capitol Reef National Park. By Scott Brady Images by Scott and Stephanie Brady

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f all the places I have traveled on this planet, Southern Utah holds the greatest personal connection. Any appeal of sketchy third-world border crossings or bizarre cuisine is replaced by breathtaking scenery, vivid fauna, paleontological wonders and anthropological mystery. Geologically, Southern Utah appears otherworldly, a palette of verdant limestone, iron concretions, and bleached sandstone, all twisted and shaped by the millennia. Much of the Colorado Plateau is the remains of the largest erg to have ever existed in North America, the Jurassic-aged Navajo Sandstone, a sand sea larger than the Sahara and averaging 2,500-feet (750 meters) thick. By comparison, the current North American erg system champion, the Grand Desierto de Altar (featured, Winter 2012) is less than 20 percent that size.

Capitol Reef

“There is a splendid freedom in solitude, and after all, it is for solitude that I go to the mountains and deserts, not for companionship. In solitude I can bare my soul to the mountains unabashed. I can work or think, act or recline at my whim, and nothing stands between me and the wild.” – Everett Ruess Overland Journal Spring 2013

My most recent exploration into Capitol Reef National Park and the Grand Staircase-Escalante began along Tantalus and Pleasant Creeks, accessed from the visitor center just west of the Henry Mountains. For this journey, we were driving a namesake vehicle, the Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland—the choice spurred more by motivation to validate this new platform and its list of technologies than any implied suitability to the task. These roads are remote and rugged, not typically the place for independent suspension and stitched leather dash. With a bit of apprehension and a satellite phone, my wife Stephanie and I trundled off down the dusty track, the chrome 18-inch wheels sparkling in the sun. The deep red of the Jeep complimented our environment, the dust hardly obscuring the vehicles’s athletic shape.

Looking into the Slickrock Divide. Opposite: The narrows of South Draw. Opening spread: Bullfrog Wash Overlook (top). Along the Circle Cliffs (bottom).

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The Circle Cliffs. Opposite: The mighty Colorado River.

Navajo Sandstone is particularly brilliant in form and color, shades of red amongst brilliant white, yellow, and even black—all permutations caused by the union of iron and oxygen.

Navajo Sandstone is particularly brilliant in form and color, shades of red amongst brilliant white, yellow, and even black—all permutations caused by the union of iron and oxygen. This bond is known as hematite (Fe2O3), the etymology for the word meaning “blood” in Greek. The area also echoes a uniquely colorful history, replete with cowboys, outlaws, and wandering poets, all influencing the lore and appeal of this remote and intriguing landscape. Though it would be more gallant to liken my travels to that of Butch Cassidy’s, there is a lone wanderer that more closely reflects the spirit of this place and my eccentricities as a traveler—Everett Ruess (1914 - unknown). It’s easy for me to identify with this young Vagabond for Beauty. His life started similarly within the megalopolis of Los Angeles, and in adolescence he yearned to escape the noise and complexities of city life. Everett surrounded himself with good company, including Ansel Adams, who recognized his potential as a poet and artist, and encouraged him to explore the deserts and refine his craft. Everett had a passion for Southern Utah, often loading up his burros and embarking on excursions into the region. Like Everett, when I’m in the deserts of Utah I’m left in wonder: skylines punctuated by fragile rock spires, my senses feeding the imagination with the sweet smell of sagebrush and the occasional screech of a red-tailed hawk, the scents and sounds of wild places shattering the two-dimensionality of modern life. Nature rewards me with each visit, revealing another layer of her splendor, another depth to her uniqueness. I feel fragile amongst the immensity of it all, but also fully alive, wandering through the remote labyrinth of sandstone, the walls a deep crimson, shaped by water and wind. Overland Journal Spring 2013

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Slot near Wolverine Canyon. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Slickrock cliffs along Wolverine Loop. Descending towards Tantalus Creek. Jorgesen Flat. Geology abounds along Death Hollow.

Though Southern Utah no longer has blank spaces on the map, you can still experience the pleasure of feeling alone, far away from the rumble of the highway, and without a single modern influence beyond the vehicle you are driving.

In stark contrast to Everett’s minimalist purity, Stephanie and I were traversing the sandstone in the comfort of a modern four-wheel drive vehicle, any real chance of an epic mitigated by GPS, detailed maps, and a constellation of communication satellites. We laughed and took photographs, generally behaving like tourists and making little apology for it. Though Southern Utah no longer has blank spaces on the map, you can still experience the pleasure of feeling alone, far away from the rumble of the highway, and without a single modern influence beyond the vehicle you are driving. This is particularly true along the 20 miles of the Tantalus Creek Trail, which sees surprising little traffic, given a portion of its length is within the National Park. Once we engaged in low range, we didn’t encounter another vehicle the entire day. I found myself enjoying the time with my high school sweetheart and wife of nearly 20 years. She did most of the driving and I, through the viewfinder of my camera, absorbed the sites and smells of Everett’s haunts, burning up the megapixels. The trail, which included a rockstrewn, sandy wash and several steep, sandstone climbs with abrupt ledges and cross-axle washouts, was reasonably challenging for a stock 4WD. While the route was fun for the driver, the experience was far more enjoyable for the passenger: stunning vistas, deep-red sandstone cliffs, and bottomless slot canyons Overland Journal Spring 2013

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Burr Trail Switchbacks. Opposite Hall’s Crossing Ferry over Lake Powell

rewarding the spectator. The route terminates along Park Ridge in the cool altitudes of Dixie National Forest—campsites abound and all were empty. We pulled our dusty Jeep back onto State Route 12 and joined the throngs of vacationers, none of them aware of the incredible scenery we had just encountered; only low range and a few good maps away from the main road.

Burr Trail

“I have always been unsatisfied with life as most people live it. Always I want to live more intensely and richly. Why muck and conceal one’s true longings and loves, when by speaking of them one might find someone to understand them, and by acting on them one might discover oneself?” – Everett Ruess

State Route 12 traverses some of the most unique geologic features on earth. Though paved, it’s certainly worth traveling. More importantly, it offers access to further exploration. For us, this was the famous Burr Trail. The trail was dug, drug, and dynamited in the late 1800s by John Atlantic Burr and used primarily as a stock route between the lower and higher elevation pastures. In its current form, the road is a combination of pavement and wide, graded dirt; the longest dirt section contained within Capitol Reef. While easy passage may be an initial turnoff, throughout the length of the route (over 60 miles) the scenery is both breathtaking and rewarding. The primary geographic feature is the Waterpocket Fold, a 100-plus-mile uplift of sandstone and sedimentary rock. Fortunately, a traveler can depart from the trodden path of the Burr and explore a southern bypass along Wolverine Canyon, an unimproved trail that starts south along the Circle Cliffs and accesses several excellent hiking trails and slot canyons. The area is filled with opportunities for further exploration and will indulge any aspiring geologist with piles of petrified wood, deep canyons, and massive sandstone uplifts. Rejoining the Burr Trail, we descended the impressive switchbacks, the road dropping 1,500 feet in less than a mile. Overland Journal Spring 2013

At the base of Waterpocket Fold, the route turns south and descends into Clay Canyon, losing elevation along the massive watershed that serves the mighty Colorado River and Lake Powell. The stunning scenery never abates and each pullout requires a few-minute stop to capture the view. Traveling along the ridge above Bullfrog Wash, Lake Powell becomes visible to the south. The trail ultimately terminates at Utah 276, just north of the ferry depot. Hall’s Crossing is the only freshwater ferry currently operating in the Southwest, and provides a fitting capstone to this backcountry adventure. As I reflect on this place, its pull magnetic, contagious, and continual, it’s easy to understand what caused motivated vagabonds like Everett Ruess to walk into the unknown. The scenery beckons as a siren, tempting and flirting with the senses, calling the traveler deeper into its cliffs and narrows. My first trip to this area was at age 15, and the memories are as clear today as when I first craned my neck skyward in an attempt to comprehend the immensity of it all. With each successive trip, Utah pulls deeper at my soul, and I continue to wander further towards the star-sprinkled sky and distant trail.

Though much of the trail is graded dirt, the route is not without its share of hazards.

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Editor’s note: I first read Everett Ruess, A Vagabond for Beauty (W.L. Rusho, ISBN 0-87905-210-4), while on a trip through Utah’s Canyon Country in 1990. This compilation of journal entries, letters to home, and wood block prints is a truly American story; one of personal growth, exploration, mystery, romance, and freedom. On November 21, 1934, Ruess said goodbye to two sheepherders he had camped with near Escalante, Utah, and was never seen again; he was 20 years of age. I highly suggest picking up a copy for your next campfire read—preferably with the striking backdrop of Southern Utah.

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$75 per person with any vehicle | $140 per couple | Kids under 16 are free (dogs too) | Register today: overlandrally.com Overland Journal Spring 2013

Southern Utah Trip

Route

Cartography by David Medeiros (mapbliss.com)

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No Batteries Needed

We review hand-powered lights and radios for every survival kit. By Jeff Skelley Preparing for an emergency is probably the most popular oxymoron term in use today. How do you prepare for a sudden, unexpected occurrence requiring immediate attention or action? Preparation can build confidence, or make you realize you’re just not ready to set out into the unknown; the unacceptable alternative is clinging to the safety and comfort of your recliner and remote control. Once food, water, and shelter are addressed, a reliable light source and communications system can make survival almost pleasant. After all, how are you going to read that survival manual in the dark? While the SCR-578 Gibson Girl (Classic Kit, 2013 Gear issue)—the shapely and beloved emergency transmitter of WWII flyboys—was designed with catastrophe in mind, today’s technology allows emergency equipment to be used daily, rising to the emergency occasion when necessary. Batteries and capacitors are brought to life by the same elbow grease that powered the Gibson Girl, but with less effort. Though cranking a 34-pound Gibson Girl feels like stirring cold molasses, energizing these new machines is more like landing a trout with a deep sea rig. In most cases, spinning the crank for about three minutes will bring a completely dead unit to a moderate charge. No more reaching for that flashlight or radio to find that it has flat batteries. You do have to work a bit, but it’s not like being chained to a bucket of molasses. The following gear provides efficient hand-powered light and emergency communication in several ways: the spoken word or Morse code via radio or light transmissions. They must serve at a moments notice and be operational at all times. This is why one or more of the dynamo-powered radios and lights reviewed here should be mandatory additions to any survival kit. The combination will allow you to set up your kit and leave the batteries at home. All you will need is a little elbow grease, and precious little of that. Overland Journal Spring 2013

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< Midland XT511 Base Camp $90 The Midland XT511 Base Camp is the closest thing to a Gibson Girl (without the well developed figure), as it contains a two-way radio. Paired with any number of walkie-talkies, it can provide a clear communications network over Family Radio Service (FRS) and General Mobile Radio Service (GMRS) frequencies. Though performance varies with terrain, obstacles, weather, and level of charge, a high-power GMRS can achieve a theoretical range of 36 miles (ideal conditions must apply—over water for example). The walkie-talkies do not have hand cranks, but adhering to the spirit of self-powered communication, we charged them with the dynamo Pocket Socket, also reviewed here. The XT511 and a set of Midland’s GTX760/795 walkietalkies made a trip to a west Texas ranch, where we also had the pleasure of trying out a vintage Gibson Girl. In an area where our cell phones were better used as paperweights, communications between the XT511 and walkie-talkies was superb, interrupted only slightly by interference from several oil wells. The XT511 has five power options: four AA batteries, rechargeable battery pack, AC adaptor, DC adaptor, and of course the dynamo crank. When using the crank, 90 seconds of elbow grease at 120 turns per minute (TPM) renders one hour of radio operating time. Weighing in at a scant 1.2 pounds, it has some very sophisticated features. This list highlights just a few: 22 channels GMRS/FRS, 121 privacy codes, National Oceanic and Atmospheric (NOAA) weather alert radio, AM/FM receiver, multi-frequency monitoring, auto squelch, silent operation, HI/LO power, signal light, USB jack for cell phone charging, and a microphone jack. You can use the XT511 as your full-time radio by using the AC cord. If you need a hand crank radio/transmitter, this unit is in a class by itself. midlandradio.com, 816-241-8500

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Kaito Voyager KA500 $70 A unique feature of the Kaito Voyager KA500 is that in addition to normal power sources (three AA batteries, AC, USB, and a hand crank), it also has a built-in solar panel. It receives AM/FM bands, seven NOAA weather channels, and two shortwave bands that allow you to listen to overseas broadcasts like BBC, Radio Moscow, or Voice of America. Translators are optional. With the solar option you don’t have to wait for Armageddon to enjoy your Voyager. Placed in direct sunlight, the adjustable solar panel can be tilted to maximize the sun’s rays, and will provide power to operate the radio or charge the built-in Ni-MH battery. On the bottom of the panel is a five-LED reading lamp, and a three-function LED, is built into the side. Once the battery is topped off, the sixtip charger can accommodate a variety of cell phones and accessories. Spinning the crank for one minute at 120 TPM will render 12 hours of radio operation; 12 hours of sun

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will provide six to eight hours. The KA500 is available in green, black, red, yellow, and blue; coordinate it with virtually any type of survival outfit kit?. It almost makes you want to wish for the next disaster. The best part is that it is very easy to use. It reminds me of a story about a shipwrecked sailor who came across a brass lamp buried in the sand. Rubbing the lamp, a genie appeared and granted him three wishes. Having not heard another’s voice in years he wished for a machine that could talk, play music, and never run out of power. POOF… a Kaito Voyager appeared. He listened and danced until it stopped. When he put it in the sun it started back up. That night he cranked it a few times and it came on again. The genie finally reminded him that he had two more wishes. The sailor exclaimed happily, “Just give me a couple more of these!” kaitousa.com, 866-524-8676

< The Lightstorm CL1 $25 Applied Innovative Technologies (AIT) has really scored with their line of emergency lights. The Lightstorm CL1 is a crank flashlight that uses a Carbon Ultracapacitor (CUC) to store energy rather than non-replaceable rechargeable batteries. The CUC will not corrode and is incredibly shockproof. A brushless dynamo generator efficiently converts mechanical energy into electrical energy, and does so without suffering wear and fatigue. Two minutes at 120 TPM tops off the capacitor, and it can be recharged over 100,000 times. (Think of how your arms could look if you tried to wear one of these out!) A parabolic reflector projects light from Quasar and StarCore® LEDs to provide a functional spot or flood beam (12-foot diameter at 20 feet, and 9-foot at 80 feet, respectively), and a full charge will net you 15 to 20 minutes use. It also has a built-in power jack for charging mobile electronic devices. To top this, the ABS housing is water-resistant, is not affected by motor oil or diesel fuel, and the unit can operate in environments between -50 F to +140 F. It has a good feel to it…and might even survive your grandkids. appliedinnotech.com, 888-828-1405

< Lightstorm SL1 $28

Goal Zero Lighthouse Lantern $55, By Chris Collard

Adhering to their mantra of alternative energy options, Goal Zero’s Lighthouse Lantern might be the perfect option for a self-contained solar-powered base camp. The top of the unit features a dynamo charger that, with two minutes of elbow grease (120 TPM), will provide 13 minutes of light. It can also be charged via the provided AC and 12-volt DC adapters, or any Goal Zero solar panel. When the 8-watt-hour battery is fully charged, run time is approximately six and a half hours. There is a 5-watt USB port for charging USB-friendly devices in the field, but this is best used when the lantern is being charged via an outside source. The 1-watt LED is projected evenly through the use of a 24-prism lens, and provides sufficient light for a tent or cooking on a camp table. The foldout handle includes a small hook for hanging on a line, and at less than one pound, can be hung from a tent hoop. Below the handle is a handy, rotating, red emergency beacon. goalzero.com, 888-794-6250

Having been a semi-pro ice hockey player, I consider a hockey puck to be one of man’s most perfect designs. I was immediately struck by the similarity of AIT’s Lightstorm SL1 to this enduring symbol of good sportsmanship and fair play. Its clever design renders it useful for almost any application. A foldout handle and hook allows for use as a flashlight or lantern, and its magnetic feet let it stick to any metal surface. The luminescent band makes it easy to find in the dark, and the reflective LED panel can be used as a signal mirror. The SL1 also uses a CUC, has ABS construction, Quasar and StarCore® LED lights, and a mini-USB charging port, placing it in the same extreme weather and high-utility category as the CL1. A two-minute spin of the crank (120 TPM) fully charges the capacitor, and will render about 15 minutes of spot, flood, or flashing red light, though range and breadth of beam lean more to the floodlight category. The usual technique with these crank-type lights is to turn the light off every 10 minutes or so, before they run completely down, and give them about 30 seconds of charge. Weighing in at just over 8 ounces, this hockey puck of a light could be an exceptionally valuable addition to your kit. appliedinnotech.com, 888-828-1405

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< K-TOR Pocket Socket Dynamo $60 A lot of effort has gone into this beautifully designed and extremely efficient product. Producing 10 watts of 120-volt electricity, the K-TOR Pocket Socket is just that, an electrical socket on the go. The unit will accept any accessory with a two-blade, U.S.-style plug, and can be adapted for European applications as well. Standard cranking will provide the same charge rate as an AC receptacle. This portable power generation plant weighs in at just 14 ounces, doesn’t mind being driven by the left or right hand, and is about the size of a single roll of Oreo cookies. Another, more-powerful crank generator expected to be available this year, is the K-TOR Power Box. It uses pedals, like a bicycle, to deliver 20 watts of power at 120 volts. It also accepts standard U.S. two-prong connectors, and the collapsible design and 28-ounce weight keep it in the portable category. k-tor.com, 802-777-6229

^ Nightstar Green $28

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The words “shaken, not stirred,” immortalized by James Bond, do a nice job of defining the charging system of the Nightstar Green. Also an AIT offering, it operates on the Faraday Principle: If an electric conductor, like copper wire, is moved through a magnetic field, electric current will be generated and flow into the conductor. Though it is a special-use flashlight, it deserves mention. Green is preferred for military operations because it has little effect on night vision and enables objects to be seen in high contrast; it also penetrates water extremely well. This light has a depth rating of 2,210 feet, is buoyant positive (with beam pointing up), and a 30-second shake will provide a 50-foot beam for 10 to 15 minutes. AIT claims this unit was operational after being immersed for three days in solutions of saltwater, isopropyl alcohol, methanol, bleach, ammonia, and phosphoric acid. It will never run out of power unless you do. There is one caution: Because a strong magnetic field surrounds this type of charging system, placement near a computer, magnetic storage media, and credit cards should be avoided. These flashlights do indeed fill the old claim “the only flashlight you’ll ever need” better than anything I’ve seen so far. appliedinnotech.com, 888-828-1405

Overland Journal Spring 2013

^ Gordon 16 LED Spotlight $25

The Gordon 16 LED Spotlight from Harbor Freight [Editor’s note: I know, I know, Harbor Freight?] is the most powerful light of the lot. Thought it has the look of a bumper car, the handle is comfortable and endurance figures are impressive (12 hours at high intensity and 28 hours on low). Charging the non-replaceable but rechargeable battery pack takes 12 hours with the AC or car adapters. While the hand crank works, a full charge of the battery will cost you about two days labor and render your arms akin to Popeye’s. (That’s not a misprint.) The Gordon won’t charge your cell phone or anything else, and it isn’t waterproof, but it runs for a long, long time on a charge and will burn a hole in the night. harborfreight.com, 800-423-2567

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The Jeep Grand Cherokee…Diesel Overland Journal takes a first look at a revolutionary platform for U.S.-based overlanders: the 2014 Diesel Grand Cherokee. By Scott Brady Photography courtesy of Chrysler

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The reality that we can now buy a full-size SUV that gets 28 mpg, has a 7,400-pound towing capacity, low range, variable-height air suspension, locking differentials, and 11.3-inches of ground clearance really gets the heart racing.

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or vehicle-based exploration, a small-displacement turbo-diesel is the powertrain of choice. While the rumble of a highhorsepower gasoline V8 can be intoxicating, the diesel rules the roost. The question is why? Spending less money on fuel is the first thing that comes to mind. In reality, particularly when loaded down and lumbering along on a remote backcountry byway, this is one of the least important attributes. Range, the ability to traverse greater distances without burdening your vehicle with the weight of a dozen extra jerry cans, is the primary benefit. We also benefit from improved low-end torque needed for slow technical driving: ascending steep ledges, maneuvering in rocky terrain, and pulling through deep sand and mud. In practice, most of the mystery is solved within the diesel cycle itself, as it sheds light onto the way stored energy (as fuel) is converted into power (drive). Understanding this cycle and the means in which power is produced within the motor also helps clarify why a diesel motor is expensive to produce and typically provides a longer service life. Developed by Rudolph Diesel in 1893, the diesel engine cycle depends on the heat generated during compression to initiate ignition; opposed to a gasoline motor (Otto Cycle), which utilizes a spark to ignite the fuel. The diesel, as combustion-based drive systems are concerned, is the most thermally efficient. This efficiency is gained because a diesel cycle can have twice the compression ratio of the Otto cycle. Unlike high-compression gasoline motors, diesels don’t suffer from pre-ignition issues; only the air is compressed until the piston is nearly top-dead-center (TDC), at which time the injector opens and introduces fuel through a series of ports. The introduction of turbo chargers, high-pressure injection, and intercoolers enhance the diesel’s efficiency and output even further. The 3.0-liter diesel introduced in the Ram and Grand Cherokee feature all of these enhancements and more. Over the past eight years, the suitability of Jeep platforms for long-distance, technical terrain and remote-environment travel has improved significantly. When we first started Overland Journal, fewer than four percent of our readers owned Jeep vehicles, and the 4-door Wrangler Rubicon had just been announced. In 2012, over 20 percent of our readers own a Jeep and it is the fastest-growing brand within our readership. This rapid growth is primarily related to two key developments: the introduction of the Rubicon Unlimited JK and the significant improvements in quality and reliability throughout the product line. We have often talked about core performance attributes of overland-appropriate vehicles: capacity, capability, durability, range, and reliability. While many other brands are getting softer, the Jeeps are getting stronger. This is certainly not to say Jeeps are without fault, as total reliability still lags behind Toyota, and critical specifications like payload are lower than other considerations. However, the reality that we can now buy a full-size SUV that gets 28 mpg, has a 7,400-pound towing capacity, low range, variable-height air suspension, locking differentials, and 11.3-inches of ground clearance really gets the heart racing. The real news for the 2014 Grand Cherokee is the Eco-Diesel 3.0-liter V6. The motor is produced in Ferrara, Italy by VM Motori Cento, and includes several important technologies including common-rail, 29,000psi fuel injection, variable-pressure turbo, intercooler, and a chain-driven DOHC. It produces its maximum 420 lb.-ft. (569 Nm) of torque at only 2,000 rpm, resulting in a rush of acceleration just off idle—only the traction control and AWD keep the tires from lighting up with a hard launch. The motor also produces a respectable 240 hp at 3,600 rpm, with the rev limiter

kicking in at 4,800 rpm. This technology does come at a price, however, as the diesel option adds $2,300 to the purchase. Despite this additional cost, I believe this option presents significant performance advantages and should ultimately reward the owner with increased resale value and motor longevity. The value proposition really doesn’t add up with fuel usage alone (given diesel fuel is more expensive and the motor is a premium option), but we gain two important results, the most critical being increased range. This means we can apply a lower payload, with regard to fuel, to cover the same distance, keeping the vehicle lighter to allow more weight and space for other equipment. Another feel-good result is that you are using 30- to 40-percent less non-renewable resources, saving a little bit more of what is in the ground for future generations of explorers. The 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Eco-Diesel spec sheet reads like one made in exploration heaven, and for the most part it delivers. I spent several days with this truck in the hill country of Texas, exploring the exposed granite rock trails of the Inks Ranch. This was not a perfectly manicured artificial track, but a technical terrain playground of steep climbs, ledges, cross-axle ruts, and deep sand; pretty consistent with most challenges we encounter in backcountry locations like Southern Utah, Northern Africa, or the Outback of Australia. The trail highlighted several performance strengths and a few remaining (and new) issues with the Grand. As for strengths, the Quadra-Drive II 4WD system, center and rear electronic locking differentials, and Quadra-Lift air suspensions are the options to tick. The combination allows for over 11 inches of ground clearance (in Off-Road 2) and extremely effective traction performance. I have no complaints with Quadra-Drive II, and find it to be the most effective fullyautomatic traction system I’ve tested. The Quadra-lift provides some real benefits, but also some challenges. When the highest mode is selected, the increased ground clearance comes at the cost of extension travel; the suspension frequently “tops out,” and articulation and ride quality are reduced. The highest setting, Off-Road 2, should be reserved for high-clearance obstacles. The air suspension is also not cross-linked, so the input weight to one tire cannot help increase articulation by forcing the unloaded (or lightly loaded) tire down, improving stability. These suspension issues are only encountered at the highest setting, so I spent most of the trail in regular height mode, Off-Road 1, and the Grand performed admirably. On the trail, the diesel was a pleasure to drive, allowing for smooth torque input and excellent throttle modulation. The new 8-speed transmission shifts smoothly between gears, attenuating torque input and reducing wheel spin—the engineers really nailed shift effectiveness with this transmission. Shift between gears is managed via paddle shifters on the steering wheel, which took some getting used to. The console shifter is now just a joystick. Move the joystick forward a few times to find park, back once to find reverse, again to find neutral, etc. One challenge with this input method is the requirement to depress the brake between forward and reverse gear. This would make self-extraction from mud, snow, and sand challenging, as you cannot easily rock the vehicle back and forth to pop-up from the hole. I found that some improvement came from light left-foot braking application, but overall the shifter/paddle/joystick seems inconsistent with the application. However, with each minor criticism comes a significant advantage. With the 8-speed, the Grand Cherokee now has a 44:1 low range ratio and 4.7:1 first gear, a 46 percent improvement over the outgoing model. In stock form the new Grand proved to be an excellent performer on the trail. But

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The interior of the new Grand Cherokee is a nice place to spend time, particularly with the Overland model. Heated and cooled seats and a real wood dash. The factory available skid plate is an important option and protects the soft bits underneath. The 3.0L Turbo Diesel is truly fantastic, providing excellent performance and effective range. Overland Journal Spring 2013

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Specifications

2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee • 3.0L turbo-diesel V6 with ZF 8-speed automatic • Chain-driven DOHC, 24 valves • Common-rail injection, 29,000 psi • Iron block, aluminum heads • 15.5:1 compression ratio • 240 hp at 3,600 rpm • 420 lb-ft torque at 2,000 rpm • 4,800-rpm redline • Intercooler • Variable pressure turbo • 21/28 mpg fuel economy with 4WD • 700-plus mile range • Assembled by VM Motori Cento, Ferrara, Italy • Paddle shift control on steering wheel • 4.7:1 first gear • Dual overdrive gears • 44:1 low range crawl ratio (best in class with an automatic)

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there is little opportunity for suspension and tire modification; the buyer should ensure that the factory performance numbers meet their needs. I have been impressed by the newest generation of Grand Cherokee since its launch; its handsome design and effective traction systems reward the senses and cradle the driver in some pretty serious comfort. The vehicle has also been in production long enough to demonstrate better-thanaverage reliability and durability, giving us confidence in recommending the truck for remote travel. However, what is really important is what lies beneath the refined sheet metal. The 2014 Grand Cherokee is the only full-size SUV offered in the U.S. with a low-range transfer case, locking differentials, and a diesel mill. And that is a really, really big deal. Publisher’s Note: Transparency with our readers is a critical value for the Overland Journal team. This issue features two stories about the Jeep Grand Cherokee: this new vehicle review of the diesel model and our adventure story on the Burr Trail. This is purely coincidental, as the adventure story was conducted over a year ago, using a 2012 Grand Cherokee Overland, while the launch of the 2014 diesel variant was only announced to us in late January. Editorial planning for adventure stories can be scheduled up to a year in advance, but critical new product and vehicle reviews come at short notice.

WATCH THE VIDEO http://www.youtube.com/user/ExpeditionPortal Jeep has done a nice job with styling, striking a balance between utility, luxury and heritage.

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Overland Conservation

Alice Gugelev

Start Your Own Project Stevie and Tree, founders of sprinterlife.com set off to Latin America to explore a world that was “different, unfamiliar, and even uncomfortable” while volunteering their time, energy, and skills. Along the way they had a beautiful baby girl, Soleil, and founded Huanchaco In Action (HIA) in Peru. HIA’s charter is to bring people together to develop community-based solutions for community problems. To date, they’ve created an affordable school, environmental initiatives, and an organic market. Stevie says, “For overlanders that want to make a difference, they can partner with an existing community organization such as PEACEmexico.org or dogoodasyougo. org. However, if you have the time, we suggest living in a town for a while to figure out how you can help that community help itself.” To get involved, go to facebook.com/HuanchacoInAction. Or, start your own project.

Baja Green Network Robert and Martine of kookynet.net started their world tour in an expedition vehicle in 2005. During the last two years, they volunteered extensively in Baja, Mexico, leveraging their skill sets in business, photography, conservation, and sustainable consumption. Leading projects with the Baja Green Network was a major highlight of their experience, allowing them to understand the region and its people better, including their goals and challenges. The

Baja Green Network identifies people and projects that support sustainable living. There are currently seven sites throughout the Baja peninsula that focus on low-impact building, community gardens, organic growing, waste repurposing, energy and water conservation, and permaculture. The Network organizes volunteers, provides tours and education courses, and generates media attention for important local issues. Neatly summed up, “Earth care, people care, fair share,” the permaculture ethos gives a harmonious purpose to the work. Learn more at bajaperma.wordpress.com.

Jupiter’s Travellers Ted Simon, a true pioneer of overland travel, believes that “Travellers learn particular truths about the societies they move through. [Sharing] these truths promotes understanding, reduces tensions, and favours the chances of peace in our world.” Ted started The Ted Simon Foundation to encourage travellers to share their experiences through writing, photography, and filmmaking endeavors. In the process they will earn the well-respected title of ‘Jupiter’s Traveller.’ “It has been hugely rewarding to see the foundation grow to support a community of 76 Jupiter’s Travellers from a dozen countries,” says Executive Director Iain Harper. Foundation member works include Touching the World, by Bernard and Cathy Smith, about the first blind person to go round the world on a motorcycle, and Traveller Daniel Rintz is currently producing a film about his motorcycle journey from Germany to New Zealand. Overland adventurers inspired to share their experiences can apply at jupiterstravellers.org.

All Overland Conservation article payments are donated to Muskoka partner communities around the world. Updates on the use of these donations will appear in future articles.

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Overland Medicine

Dr. Jon Solberg

Allergic Reactions Recognition and treatment of allergic responses.

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ew disorders encompass such a wide presentation and severity of symptoms as allergic reactions. Most overland travelers will either experience allergic symptoms of their own, or travel in the company of someone who does. Food allergies, allergic rhinitis, drug allergies, Toxicodendron (poison ivy/oak) dermatitis, and life-threatening anaphylaxis are a few of the more important allergic reactions that wilderness explorers may encounter. Thus, a basic understanding of the pathophysiology, symptoms, and treatment of each should be acquired by at least one expedition member.

Pathophysiology

The body’s immune system serves to protect it from foreign invaders such as bacteria. An allergic reaction occurs when the immune system mistakes normally harmless environmental particles (antigens) as foreign, and develops small antibody particles called Immunoglobulin E (IgE). When this occurs, IgE triggers the release of histamine and other chemicals that cause inflammation in the skin, airways, intestines, and blood vessels. IgE is also capable of recognizing the specific antigen if and when it is encountered in the future. Thus, in order to develop a true allergy, one must first be exposed, then develop an overactive response, and then be re-exposed to the same antigen. With repeated exposure, the reaction is typically amplified.

Food Allergies

Allergies to certain foods such as peanuts, shellfish, or other, typically occur between five minutes to two hours after ingestion. Food allergies can range from mild (skin rashes and runny nose) to severe (wheezing, oral swelling, nausea, vomiting, and low blood pressure).

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Annoying manifestations include hives, a rash consisting of red, blotchy, itchy areas which can form anywhere on the skin’s surface. Hives are migratory. If you mark the rash’s edge with a marker, in 20 to 30 minutes the rash will have moved, expanded, changed shape, or disappeared all together. It is reasonable to take diphenhydramine (Benadryl) at the onset of food allergy symptoms. However, because allergic reactions to food can become life threatening, future avoidance and allergy testing are paramount. More serious reactions such as angioedema (fluid leaking through blood vessels to cause severe swelling) of the lips or oral cavity, gastrointestinal upset, and shock (low blood pressure) should prompt immediate treatment with oral diphenhydramine, injectable epinephrine if previously prescribed by a physician, and expeditious evacuation to definitive medical care. Unfortunately, many other bad reactions (food poisoning, lactose intolerance, peptic ulcer disease, etc.) are frequently mislabeled as allergies. Therefore, don’t let an upset stomach from Baja fish tacos and Corona dissuade you from trying the combination again in the future. Do ensure that the fish is cooked thoroughly, the vegetable toppings are washed, and avoid putting ice in your beer.

Allergic Rhinitis

Allergic rhinitis is a constellation of symptoms including rhinorrhea (runny nose), itching, sneezing, and nasal congestion. Much advice exists on how to avoid allergic rhinitis triggers. However, most explorers generally find avoidance unpractical and symptom relief must be attained through histamine-blocking medication. First-generation antihistamines such as diphenhydramine work well but easily cross into the brain where they cause side effects such as sedation. Second-generation anti-histamines, such as loratadine (Clari-

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tin) and cetirizine (Zyrtec), work equally well but do not cross into the brain and therefore do not cause sedation. They are the antihistamine of choice for vehicle-dependent travelers who must stay awake behind the wheel. Those whose symptoms include nasal congestion may also benefit from pseudoephedrine, an oral medication that constricts sinus blood vessels and decreases the swelling caused by histamine. Pseudoephedrine is available by itself or in combination with antihistamines. (Example: In Zyrtec-D, the “D” indicates that it also contains a decon-

It is difficult to predict who will have a drug reaction, and one should think twice before taking a new medication for the first time when in a remote wilderness setting. gestant). Beware though, as pseudoephedrine can cause a temporary increase in blood pressure. Particularly nasty nasal symptoms are most effectively treated with intranasal steroid sprays that have relatively few side effects but are available only by prescription.

Drug Reactions

Drug reactions can be non-allergic (nausea, sedation, interaction with other medications) or allergic. True drug allergies can be life threatening and are caused by the body’s histamine-mediated response in addition to other more complex reactions which can cause presentations such as anemia (low blood count) and fevers. The most typical culprits are antibiotics such as penicillin and sulfa-containing medications. It is difficult to predict who will have a drug reaction, and one should think twice before taking a new medication for the first time when in a remote wilderness setting.

Toxicodendron Dermatitis

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Toxicodendron dermatitis is the result of an abnormal immune response to urushiol oil, contained in plants of the Anacardiaceae family (poison oak, ivy, and sumac). The resulting rash is extremely pruritic (itchy) and erythematous (red). Typically the rash develops small fluidfilled blisters arranged in linear, streak-like patterns. These are telltale signs of where the plant brushed against the skin while you were hiking or doing yard work. The rash develops gradually between four hours and 21 days after exposure. This prolonged onset can sometimes trick the victim into believing the rash is “spreading,” when the reality is that it manifests slowly over several days. Contrary to popular belief, fluid released from ruptured blisters does not spread the rash. However, urushiol oil remaining on unwashed clothing can certainly cause spreading and can be transmitted to others by direct contact. (Hint: Wash all clothes and skin thoroughly with soap.) Left untreated, the rash resolves in one to three weeks—given the patient can avoid scratching it and extending his/her misery. Histamine plays little to no part in this particular allergy, therefore antihistamines like Benadryl are not very helpful and owe their anti-itch properties more to the sedation side effects than to actual histamine blockage. Topical steroids (1% hydrocortisone cream, available over-thecounter) are the treatment of choice for itchy symptoms. But once blisters appear, the reaction is pretty much in full swing and will run its course regardless of attempted therapy. Higher potency topical steroids are occasionally prescribed, but the risks often outweigh the actual benefits. Severe dermatitis of the face or genitals may necessitate Overland Journal Spring 2013

treatment with oral steroids, but no studies have determined the proper dose or duration of treatment. Overlanders would be better off studying photos of the offending plants in addition to memorizing the old adage “leaves of three, quickly flee; berries of white, take flight!”

Life-threatening Anaphylaxis

Few things scare a first responder as much as anaphylaxis (lifethreatening allergy) encountered in a wilderness setting. Victims can be overcome so quickly by airway swelling, vomiting, hives, and shock, that they are rendered unable to treat themselves. Thus the duty of administering epinephrine (adrenaline) falls upon their teammates. If you or another expedition member has severe, life threatening allergies (most typically to foods, medications, and insect stings), the entire team must be informed and properly trained to administer an auto-injector, a pensized epinephrine-containing device. The wrong time to learn about auto-injectors is when your teammate is in extremis. “Dummy” auto-injectors are available for training and a trial run can drastically reduce the odds of accidentally injecting your own thumb when your own adrenalin is pumping and you’re using the device for the first time. Epinephrine’s effects are short lived and often multiple injections are required. Thus, any sign of anaphylaxis requires prompt treatment and evacuation. The carriage of epinephrine auto-injectors by wilderness first responders is a topic of much current debate, as epinephrine is a prescription drug with dangerous side effects. Some states consider it negligence for laypersons to administer the drug. Physicians’ malpractice insurance excludes coverage in states where no medical license is possessed, further muddying the waters for Good Samaritan physicians who provide emergency care in remote locations away from home. For those interested in learning about epinephrine administration in the wilderness setting, advanced training can be obtained from multiple sources including the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), the Wilderness Medical Society (WMS), and Remote Medical International (RMI). For unknown reasons, allergies are becoming increasingly prevalent in today’s society, making your odds of dealing with them while in the backcountry more likely. This month, check your first aid kit and ensure it contains a few tablets of non-sedating antihistamine. If you’re traveling to areas where plants of the Anacardiaceae family reside, ensure everyone in the group knows how to identify the offending plant, pack some hydrocortisone ointment, and take a plastic bag into which you could potentially place contaminated clothing until washing facilities are available. Most importantly, share your pertinent medical history with the group before you embark and review the medical contingency plan, including identification and treatment of any known life-threatening disorders like anaphylaxis. Doctor’s orders!

Resources

National Outdoor Leadership School: nols.edu, 800-710-6657 Wilderness Medical Society: wms.org, 801-990-2988 Remote Medical International: remotemedical.com, 800-597-4911 The Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America: aafa.org, 800-727-8462 Field Guide to Wilderness Medicine, 3e. 2008 printing, Paul S. Auerbach ISBN 1-4160-4698-4

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SKILLS

Chris Collard

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Field Welding 101 To get you prepped for the field, we outline basic welding principles, safety issues, and common welds.

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t was a warm June afternoon, 1993. A few friends and I were en route to the 1860’s Gold Rush ruins of Summit City along the shores of Meadow Lake, California. Rather than taking the graded dirt road, we’d opted to traverse the Fordyce Creek Trail, one that rivals the celebrated Rubicon in technical nature. It was early in the season and we’d had to cut and winch a number of downed trees from the route. I’d just respooled my winch cable, loaded my gear, and turned the key. As I pulled back onto the trail, I heard a faint tink from the front end. My first thought was, “Hmmm, that was odd.” At the same moment my steering went limp, freely spinning from full-lock to lock. A quick inspection revealed that the ends of the J-arm, a curlicue cast-steel arm that connects the pitman arm to the steering knuckle, was attached to its components correctly, but there was a 6-inch section of clear Sierra Nevada air between them. Not good. One of the most important things I’ve learned over the years is that I don’t know everything. Though I was told that my six-year stint in academia would edify me on the ways of the world, almost all of my practical knowledge has come from field experience. Back in 1993, I’d had very little welding experience, and none on the trail. But I’ve longbelieved in the Boy Scout motto of being prepared. A few years prior a friend tore a spring perch from the frame of his Flat Fender Willys. I was clueless as to what to do, other than using straps and chain to secure the patient’s wounds. After a short discussion, a few members of my 4WD club popped their hoods, removed Overland Journal Spring 2013

the batteries, grabbed jumper cables, and gathered around the listing Jeep. Jim Harris pulled out a handful of welding rod, a hood, and a small hammer, and started connecting the batteries together. Within a couple hours the Willys was fit for duty. I examined Jim’s welding kit and have since carried the necessary gear. Back to the steering arm: With my J-arm resembling two greasy paperweights, it was now time to practice welding. With zero time at the controls, my welds, if you could call them such, were horrible. It looked like a flock of seagulls had been circling above, depositing their droppings everywhere. The weld, however, held and got me off the trail. You may be asking yourself, “I drive a new G-wagen, why do I need to know how to weld?” I can tell you this; it is not a question of if, but when. Sooner or later, you or one of your trail companions will hear a tink. When it happens, as would be the case with a medical emergency, rudimentary knowledge of the subject can make the difference between success and failure. I can also tell you that you will NOT learn how to weld by reading this article. I suggest finding a friend who is an accomplished MIG and arc welder, or locating a good welding school that offers one or two-day crash courses. The Boy Scouts recently added welding to their merit badge skills. It covers basic principles of welding, safety issues, and common welds. A school that offers this program would be an excellent place to start.

Theory

A weld is defined as a localized coalescence of metals, the fusion or growing together of the grain structure. Fusion is the key here. Think of model airplane cement versus Elmer’s glue. Model cement effectively melts the edges of two pieces of plastic together, fusing it as one continuous material, where Elmer’s is merely that…glue. Fusion, or penetration, will be a recurring theme. Though there are many welding methods, we’re going to focus on the two you will want to know for basic field repairs: shielded metal arc welding (SMAW), also known as stick welding, and gas metal arc welding (GMAW), commonly referred to as MIG (Metal Inert Gas). MIG is the typical wire-feed welder found in fabrication shops, and for this review we further divide this into two sub-categories: shielding gas (separate gas bottle mixture of argon, helium, oxygen, or carbon dioxide), and flux-core (shielding agent contained within the wire). With regard to SMAW field repairs, I’ll focus on two methods: underthe-hood alternator-driven, high-frequency units such as a Premier Power Welder, and the Holy Grail of MacGyverism, batteries and jumper cables. Without getting into a chemists’ dissertation—covalent and ionic bonds, electron clusters and clouds, ionic states, and packed hexagonal cubic structure—we’ll narrow the discussion to the practical knowledge needed for real-world applications. To get a firm grasp of welding theory, I met with Ed Bogner of Miller Electric, manufacturer of an extensive line of quality American-made welders and accessories. In simple terms, a weld, or coalescence of metals, is created by heat. Heat, for this discussion, is generated by the flow of electrical current though a resistance material. In the case of welding metal, that material is air. Example: when you hook up a battery terminal to a vehicle when an accessory is on, you have closed the electrical circuit and there will be a slight spark, and usually a resulting divot on the terminal. The spark is the result of electrical energy jumping the small air gap, or arcing, between the terminal and the cable. The divot, caused by the heat generated from the arc, is the beginning of a potential weld. Increase the voltage and/or amperage and the electoral current will arc a greater gap, thus generating more heat. By maintaining the proper distance between a power source (the charged terminal/electrode), and the base material (the battery cable, or the material to be welded), the sustained arc and resultant heat will effectively melt each contact surface. All of the techniques discussed here use a consumable electrode, a steel rod or spool of wire designed to melt and fill the “gap” between two items to be worked on (referred to as work or base material). Since most vehicle-related components are made of mild or cast steel, I’m not addressing the welding of aluminum, cast iron, stainless, or dissimilar metals.

Assembling a Welding kit

The standard welding kit should include a welding shield and gloves, protective clothing, welding rod (arc welding) and required cable leads, metal files or grinder, slag hammer, and wire brush.

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The rule of thumb for amperage requirements is one amp per .001 inches of thickness of the base material. Example: a .125-inch plate would require 125 amps. WARNING: Closing a battery’s electrical circuit will cause a dead short, fireworks, a possible explosion, and injury. ALWAYS disconnect your vehicle from the batteries before welding (better to remove them from the vehicle).

(All graphics courtesy of Miller Electric.) Overland Journal Spring 2013

Preparation

During a trek down the Baja Peninsula, the suspension on a friend’s Jeep failed. The culprit was a large crack in one of the components, a quarter-inch steel plate. Preparation, whether welding with MIG or SMAW, is the same process. Access The first step is to assess how the weld should be done. If the part can be removed, preparing and setting a good weld will be easier. If your patient is a spring perch that has separated from its frame, you will need to manage the best you can.

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1. If possible, the component should be removed from the vehicle and inspected for ancillary damage to determine the best method of repair. 2. Using a file, grinder, or other, rework contact surfaces for a snug fit. Filing a slight bevel to each side of the work area will help ensure proper fusion, or penetration. 3. Base material and electrical grounds should be free of paint, rust, or contamination. 4. For the best odds of success, try to relax. Make sure you are in a comfortable position, have proper eye, appendage, and body protection, and the work area is clear of debris and non-essential people. Note the ViseGrip being used as makeshift ground and the barelegged bystander (we should have protected his legs with a tarp). 5. A slag hammer and wire brush are used to clean the weld and allow for inspection.

Prepare the surface When things break, they rarely part ways with the intent of a harmonious reunion. Edges are ragged, bent, and deformed. Preparing each surface must be done properly to avoid secondary failure. (Note: Grinding or filing off bad welds will take three times as long as doing them properly the first time.) The process will involve bending components back to their original form (or a close semblance), scraping paint from the area to be welded, and filing a slight bevel on contact surfaces to ensure adequate penetration. They should fit back together like a puzzle. Remove combustible material All forms of welding create a significant amount of heat, sparks, and splatter of molten metal. Clear combustible material from a 3-foot radius around the work area and have a fire extinguisher or bucket of water handy. Make sure nonessential people vacate the scene, and those in the work area have a welding shield with a #12 shade lens or darker (automatic shields are adjustable). NEVER look at a welding arc with unprotected eyes, as permanent damage may occur. Connect electrical leads In every welding situation, take care in connecting electrical leads. Short-circuiting a pair of 12-volt automotive batteries will cause a light show you’ll not forget and is very dangerous. (Note: Practice this first at home under the supervision of someone who knows what they are doing.) Your ground lead should be secured to the work and have a good metal-to-metal contact; remove any paint, rust, or grease. Relax and practice A common message from industry experts is to make sure you are relaxed and in a comfortable position. The second bit of sound advice is to always make a practice pass of the intended area to be welded. Lastly, Pat Gremillion of Premier Power Welder said, “Buy good equipment. Lincoln welding rod is very good and ESAB is excellent. You get what you pay for.”

Telltale signs of incorrect torch angle will be excess splatter and smoke scarring on one side of the weld. Overland Journal Spring 2013

Gas Metal Arc Welding (GMAW)

I suggest starting with GMAW, or MIG (with gas), as it’s the easiest to learn. Then move on to flux-core MIG. When you can pass the Boy Scout merit badge requirements, move on to SMAW, or stick welding. I worked with Troy Johnson at the 2011 Dakar Rally in South America. Troy owns The Fab School, an accredited welding and fabrication institute in Riverside, California. His team managed all modifications to our race vehicle, a Ford Raptor, and are considered experts in the industry. They’re also approved for the Boy Scout program (I had this goal in mind). To learn MIG basics—preparation of materials, how to determine proper penetration, or fusion, and what a good weld should look like—I joined lead instructor Dan Moore for a one-day crash course. After a quick safety briefing and review of necessary equipment, he put a welding gun in my hand and said, “It is really important to be relaxed and comfortable before you start. Do a practice weld on another piece of metal first, to get a feel for the welder settings. Then do a dry run across the length of your intended weld area.” He continued, “Watch the pool [molten metal] as you move the rod from one edge of the root [center line between two items being welded] to the other in kind of a wavy motion.” Placement Depending on the thickness of the base material, wire speed and amperage will vary. Miller Electric has an excellent iPhone app (free) for this, and most welders have a settings chart under the access cover. Dan said the distance from the gun (electrode) to the contact will usually be between .375 and .5 inches. “Allow your ears to tell you if the distance is right. If you are too far away it will start to spatter and sound like a machine gun. This is called long arcing. With the gun too close, or if the wire speed is too fast, the arc may not generate enough heat to melt the wire. You will feel the gun pushing away from the work and you’ll see the pool cratering as the unmelted wire pushes it to the side.” Angle Torch, or gun angle is another important factor. Telltale signs of incorrect torch angle will be excess splatter and smoke scarring on one side of the weld. In this case, the opposite side will usually not have a smooth transition from the weld to the base material and penetration may be compromised.

Resources The diagrams below, from the Miller Electric GMAW training book, are an excellent reference.

1. Position of the gun, or torch, to the base material (work) should be 90 degrees on flat, or butt welds, and 45 degrees on T welds. 2. While there is a common theory that a weld should be created using crescent movements of the gun, the pros I talked with all said the movement should be from side-to-side. The process evenly fuses, or melts, each base component to the molten filler material. The result is known as the pool, or puddle. 3. With the torch at a slight angle (5-15 degrees), proper side-to-side motion, and smooth forward progress, a well-executed weld should resemble a stack of dimes laying on its side. 4. The gap in the lower diagram is the root opening, a very slight separation at the bottom of a bevel. It allows for full penetration when you are only able to weld from one side of a subject. 5. This is a good representation of the MIG process (using shielding gas). While the charged wire (the electrode) is fed from the center of the gun, inert gas is dispersed as well. The gas creates a contaminant-free environment for the arc to jump the gap. The resulting heat melts the wire and the base material.

How it looks

Welding Basics

Mastering these five basic welds (T, lap, butt, corner, and edge) will prepare you for most repairs you encounter on the trail.

The Boy Scout merit badge requires executing a butt, lap, and T weld. Note the smooth edges of the lap weld (middle) and stack-ofdimes appearance of the T weld (rear). After a half a day with Dan, I’d passed. Initials optional.

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Flux-Core GMAW

The Ready Welder is another very handy trail welding solution. It is similar to a MIG unit found in welding shops, in that it feeds wire automatically at a predetermined speed, but it uses flux-core wire rather than a secondary gas source and is powered by multiple 12volt car batteries. Advantages are that the unit is portable and fairly compact. The disadvantage is that batteries have a finite amount of energy; your weld will wane as batteries discharge and flux-core wire is notoriously messy. The other disadvantage is that the tip of the gun, once the unit is connected to power, is charged with 24 volts and high amperage. The company suggests using deep-cycle marine batteries. Nondeep-cycle batteries will work for occasional use but care needs to be taken to not fully discharge the units, as lifespan may be reduced significantly. The good news is that with fully charged batteries you can get about an hour of welding in (depending on thickness of metal and amperage draw), enough for most trail repairs. The batteries are connected in series, positive to negative, positive to negative, which increases the voltage to 24. The remaining open terminals connect to your electrode (the gun) and ground (grounding clamp on your work). Note: DO NOT close the circuit directly. It will create a dead short, a fireworks show, and possibly detonate the batteries. I’ve used a Ready Welder several times and they work well. In Baja (yes, Baja is rough on vehicles), the shock mount on a friend’s Jeep broke. We removed the part, prepped as best we could, and used a Ready Welder to reattach it to the axle. It held for the rest of the trip.

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Top: Ready Welders come in a variety of models, but the basic unit includes a wire-feed gun, connecting cables, and a ground clap. The index finger trigger controls wire speed, which determines amperage. Bottom: Baja has a tendency to find the weak link in your vehicle. We broke a shock mount, on day two of a 10-day trip. With a bottle jack holding the shock mount in position, the unit was secured with a small tack weld. Full-penetration welds were then executed. This trail fix got the driver and his family down the Baja peninsula and home again.

Important note When using vehicle batteries as a

power source, unless you have a third vehicle to jumpstart the battery donor vehicles, be conservative with the length of time welding. Check voltage with a multimeter every few minutes. If it drops below 12.2 volts, about 50 percent capacity, disconnect the system and recharge the batteries. Then go back to your welding.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW)

The aforementioned disadvantage of using batteries as a power source is eliminated with an under-the-hood Premier Power Welder. The unit receives power from a high-output alternator and converts it to high-frequency DC current. An advantage to this, in addition to not draining your batteries, is that high-frequency DC current is not subject to voltage drop in longer cable lengths. Cable or lead lengths of, say, 200 feet, do not degrade performance. The Premier unit also provides a 6- to 36-volt battery charger, a 115-volt DC power outlet for running power tools, and 100-percent duty-cycle. To understand the basics of SMAW, or stick welding, the necessary equipment, and types of welding rod, I joined Premier Power Welder gurus, Pat and Max Gremillion, in the Southern California desert for some practical field training. My session at The Fab School had set a foundation for the handeye coordination of working the electrode from one side of the base material (work) to the other. With a few exceptions—holding the electrode (welding rod) at a slightly different angle and feeding the rod into the work area at a consistent rate—stick weld is very similar to MIG. Preparation of materials, safety and health issues, and proper welding attire are universal. The first thing Max said to me as we knelt down to set up our work space was, “The most important thing about

Stick Welding

Practice Makes Perfect (or close anyway)

Attempt

good welding is to get comfortable before you start. Then do a dry run [no power] to make sure you can finish the section without readjusting your body.” I found the most difficult aspect of stick welding to be feeding the rod at an even rate to maintain proper arc length. This is coordinated with the side-to-side motion and forward progress along the work area. (I’ve never been good at rubbing my belly and patting my head at the same time.) After several hours coaching—not to mention barbequing my fingers through my gloves a few times—my welds, though lacking the aesthetic appeal of Max’s, had proper penetration and were worthy of putting back on the trail. I don’t currently have a Premier Power Welder on my vehicle (it’s now on my wish list), but if I were setting off on a RTW trek, this would be a must-have piece of kit. With a little practice, you could probably finance a trip, welding your way around the planet.

On my first attempt, using 6013 rod, my weld was predictably bad. Note the bubbling nature and slag inclusions (inconsistent and shaky hands), numerous holes (caused by dillydallying in one place for too long), and copious amounts of splatter (fluctuations in the distance between the welding rod and the work). Also note that the holes are burned through the upper piece of metal (as well as scorch marks), indicating my rod was at to low of an angle. Even penetration was marginal at best.

Attempt

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After some practice I was getting better control of feeding the rod evenly, motion and speed, and keeping an eye on the pool. I was still slightly off on my angle; note the bulging nature on the lower edge of the weld. This weld has sufficient penetration with the upper component, but questionable penetration on the lower.

Attempt

Top: The Premier Power Welder is a about the size of a small car battery. In addition to being a high-frequency welder, it also doubles as a battery charger and will run 115-volt shop tools. Left: Welding rod should be stored in a sealed container with limited room for rattling around (this can damage the exterior shielding agent). Pat Gremillion suggested two types of rod: 6013, known as general-purpose farmer’s rod, and the higher tensile strength 7018. Striking and maintaining an arc with 6013 is much easier, but is not as strong. Pat said, “6013 will weld dirt, cow #%&@, anything…” Better for all-purpose high-strength welding is 7018, but it will take a fair bit of practice to master. I now carry both. Right: The angle of the rod to base material is vital to even penetration of both surfaces. It should be about 45 degrees for a T weld, and 90 degrees for a butt, or flat weld. In each case, leaning the rod forward, or dragging it slightly, will allow for viewing of the molten pool.

By the end of my session, I was controlling rod speed, flow through the length of the weld, and pulsing side-to-side motion around the pool. The resulting weld was not only presentable, but had good penetration. Note limited scorching, and stack-of-dimes semblance.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

MacGyver 101

In my opinion, welding with batteries and jumper cables is the Holy Grail of trail repairs (short, maybe, of rebuilding the head of my truck in the middle of, yes, Baja). My first experience was the aforementioned trail ride with my 4WD club. Akin to seating a tire bead with ether, the method is like folklore passed down from generation to generation—practical knowledge that is rarely publicized. This is because there are serious hazards associated with it. As with the Ready Welder configuration, closing a battery’s electrical circuit will cause a dead short, fireworks, a possible explosion, and injury. ALWAYS disconnect your vehicle from the batteries first, or you will kill the computer. Possible catastrophe aside, when done correctly, SMAW, or stick welding with a battery power source is a perfectly viable solution for remote field repairs. Configuration The configuration is the same as for the Ready Welder. Batteries are connected in series: positive to negative, positive to negative, using the final open terminals for the ground and electrode. Depending on quality and charge levels, you will need two or three batteries. If three is too “hot,” rod is hard to control and burns through your base material; disconnect one battery. Two high-quality units, such as the Odyssey AGM units I have on my Tacoma, will work. Precautions The same precautions of rapid discharge apply, as does frequent monitoring of battery voltage. If using lead-acid batteries, which create gas vapor during discharge, it’s important to remove them from the vehicles, monitor their temperature (by touch is fine), and cover them with a ground tarp in case they, uh, explode. Go for it With the system in place and precautions taken, give it a go. While the technique is identical to stick welding with a Premier Power Welder or shop-style arc welder, managing rod feed, and work speed will be much more difficult, as you have no control over amperage. However, if you have semi-mastered stick welding at home, you should be able to muck your way through battery welding with partially scorched honor.

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Top: My trail welding kit includes a shield, gloves, sealed tube of 6013, 7014, and 7018 rod, hammer, wire brush, jumper cables, battery leads, and a Milwaukee cordless drill with assorted bits and grinding attachments. Middle: My self-contained system incorporates dual Odyssey AGM batteries secured with a Columbia Overland mount. Note that my vehicle’s battery leads, both positive and negative, are disconnected (I know, I said this already—it is important). Left: Jumper leads, used to connect batteries, should be of #3 copper wire, which will handle up to 150 amps. One end is a negative clamp, the other positive. You will need two leads to connect three batteries. Right: Attaching the rod will require a robust jumper clamp, and a little finesse. The center, or electrode, must have a firm connection, while the shielded covering simply keeps the rod in place. Attaching the ground is identical to the previous techniques.

Aside from removing one battery from the equation, do not deviate from this schematic.

For your safety

NEVER attach all batteries together. This will close the circuit and cause an explosion. ALWAYS cover the batteries with a good tarp while welding. ALWAYS remove lead-acid batteries from vehicle.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Back to Baja

Back to San Francisquito and the Jeep suspension. The finished product, executed by friend Rich Currie, an accomplished welder, was not beautiful, but had solid penetration. We got the vehicle back on the trail and the weld held for another eight days on Baja’s back roads. (Note: Always have the most skilled welder in the group manage the repair.) Whether you mend your vehicle back together with a Ready Welder flux-core MIG, Premier Power Welder SMAW unit, or play your adventure card with batteries and jumper cables, the end result is what counts. This being said, I will repeat that you will NOT learn to weld by rereading this yarn a dozen times. Find a friend who knows what he/she is doing, or lo-

cate an accredited welding school. Practice until you gain competency. Source one of the aforementioned systems and practice with it. Premier and Ready Welder units are pricey but work well. Battery welding is more difficult but the kit can be as little as $100 if using your existing batteries. Someday, possibly on the Mojave Trail or on a blistering afternoon in the Kalahari, you’ll be thankful that you made the investment. As for my flock-of-seagulls J-arm repair, I still carry it with me. I’ve loaned it to stranded Toyota drivers a number of times, shared the story, and for some reason I always get it back.

Resources Miller Electric: millerwelds.com, 920-734-9821 The Fab School: thefabschool.com, 951-782-0567 Premier Power Welder: premierpowerwelder.com, 970-963-4507 Ready Welder: readywelder.com, 310-834-3321 Welding Principles and Applications, ISBN 1-4018-1046-2

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Overland Chef

Åsa Björklund

Cast Iron Baked Bread Pining for an original culinary experience? Bake your own bread over an open fire. Dutch Oven Baked Bread

Photo by Cyril Mischler

Serves: 6 | Cook time: 15-20 minutes Equipment: Cast iron Dutch oven, mixing bowl and utensils

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The first time I made bread over the campfire I felt like I was reliving an episode of Little House on the Prairie: men in suspenders, women in frilled aprons, all gathering around the fire for a hearty meal and the latest pioneer gossip. Admittedly, my sarong couldn’t pose as an apron and my friends lacked suspenders, but we did have a delicious meal and some gossip after a day on the San Juan River, Utah. Stale bread is a real downer; even the most preservative-packed loaf will taste like sand after just a few days in the backcountry. Fresh bread can lift an entire meal or quiet that craving for an after-supper sweet. The idea of preparing your own can ring bells of your grandmother hovering around the stove while waiting for yeast to rise—a hard person to imitate after a long day outdoors. However, soda-based bread baked over a fire in a cast iron pot is easy to prepare, and every slice has a succulent center embedded in a deliciously crunchy crust. If weight is not an issue, a Dutch oven is the ideal implement for outdoor cooking. It retains and distributes heat better than any other material, allowing ingredients to slowly reach their full flavor. Cast iron is cheaper than stainless steel, and as long as it is seasoned properly (oiled and baked at a high temperature before first use), it is as non-stick as Teflon, but without all the grubby chemicals. You can vary this recipe in an endless number of ways, substituting sour cream and buttermilk with normal milk, or with powdered milk (add a teaspoon of vinegar per cup). I recommend mixing dry ingredients in a Ziploc bag at home, adding the dairy products just before cooking. It may take a bit of trial and error, adjusting the amount of coals so as to not burn the bottom, but when successful, your reward will be a delicious home-baked creation that grandma would be proud of. Overland Journal Spring 2013

4 cups flour 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 tablespoon baking powder ¾ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons sugar or honey ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg (optional) 1 egg, beaten 1 cup buttermilk 1 cup plain yoghurt or sour cream

For sweet bread add:

Grated zest of one lemon 1½ cups dried cranberries ½ teaspoon cinnamon ¾ cup sugar

For savory bread add:

1½ cups of grated extra-sharp cheddar or parmesan cheese, herbs such as rosemary and oregano, or chili for a Southern touch.

Prepare a healthy bed of coals or charcoal briquettes. Coat bottom and sides of oven evenly with cooking oil and hang on tripod close to coals. Otherwise, place directly on coals, but take care that the bread does not burn (an oven with legs is best here). Mix ingredients in a separate bowl and pour dough evenly into the oven so that it reaches the sides. Place 18 briquettes or an equivalent quantity of coals on the lid. Let cook until it begins to smell of fresh bread; about 15-20 minutes. Important: Don´t cook directly over open flames or your bread will burn. Remove from the oven and let cool under a towel. Cut and serve with butter or your favorite topping.

Breakfast ~ Serve with preserves, honey, and hot coffee or tea Dessert ~ Serve with a snifter of brandy or Irish Cream

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Overland Journal Spring 2013

Classic Kit

Christophe Noel

Dutch Ovens Rabbit stew, Johnny-cakes, or cobbler…the Dutch oven is the “cooking” pot of ages.

s afternoon surrenders to twilight, the crackle of a campfire counts out the rhythms of an evening in the backcountry. While shadowed figures fade in and out of the flickering light, the quiet hiss of the fire is abruptly punctuated by a piercing “clang.” It’s an unnatural sound, yet familiar to campsites spanning centuries: the sound of a heavy cast iron lid glancing off a Dutch oven. A subtle announcement of what is to come…not an official call to dinner, but it serves that purpose all the same. The Dutch oven is a stalwart fixture of camp life. It has served us, our fathers, grandfathers, and those long before us, when camp life was just––life. Maybe it’s because the Dutch oven is so simple and central to our outings that it’s so easily overlooked, even taken for granted. Where did the Dutch oven come from, and how is it that this question has not been posed more frequently around the soft glow of a campfire? To get the full breadth of the Dutch oven’s history in its various forms, we’ll have to look far beyond our grandfathers and well past the first campfire sing-a-long featuring the new tune, Camp Town Lady. The origins of the Dutch oven precede all of that, and by a considerable stretch. The birth of the Dutch oven arguably began roughly three millennia ago in China. The Chinese gave us a number of lasting innovations such as gunpowder, paper money, the compass, and cast iron. Almost simultaneously with its creation, cast iron was put to use to construct durable cooking pots. It probably isn’t fair to consider those crude vessels as proper Dutch ovens, but they do mark time as being the first pots made of this inky black metal.

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Cast iron in itself, when pitted against other metals, is not a very remarkable material. It is porous, brittle, and heavy, has low tensile strength, and can’t be sharpened into even a crude edge. With respect to aesthetics, it isn’t a very pretty material; if not the most unattractive metal ever to leave a foundry. However, it does have redeeming qualities. It’s inexpensive and conducts heat with aplomb, making it ideal for cooking. Cast iron is the original non-stick surface, cleans easily, and many argue it imparts a unique and rich flavor to most foods. As a bonus, it’s virtually impossible to dent, scratch, or damage. This is a key feature when your Dutch oven tumbles out of your chuck wagon as you trundle along the Oregon Trail. Although the Chinese were the first to appreciate the culinary qualities of cast iron, hungry appetites the world over quickly adopted it for their daily cookware. It wasn’t until much later that cast iron emerged as the “pot and lid” set we now know and love as the Dutch oven. Historians have researched and theorized at great lengths trying to pinpoint the inception of the first Dutch oven and definitively determine the origins of the name. Hard to believe, but this is a subject of heated contention. In fact, many of the details surrounding this iconic cooker gather a great deal of rumination and dissent. Much like the confounding debate between which is better, peach or cherry cobbler, we may never know the true genesis of the Dutch oven, how it came to be, or how it earned its name. One theory puts the first official Dutch oven over the fire in 1704. That year, Englishman Abraham Darby traveled to Holland to inspect the metal casting methods being developed by Dutch masters. Darby is said to have brought those methods back to England, where he employed them by casting a number of new materials. He eventually “created” and marketed as his own invention, that which we now refer to as the Dutch oven. Though some argue the name applies to a process rather than a product, and discredit Darby, his name will forever be linked to his creation (Darby attained the first patent). Another more plausible theory suggests that Darby had nothing to do with the “invention” at all, but was merely one of a new crop of oven advocates selling his wares. Many historians believe it is the Dutch themselves who deserve credit for the process, the design, and the eponymously named oven. Amazing to think this is actually a topic of academic discord, but it is. In and around 1704, Dutch foundries were developing the most sophisticated methods for casting metals. Dutch harbors were also choked with the comings and goings of countless tall ships. It was the era of the long reach and powerful grasp of the Dutch merchant navy. For 150 years prior, ships flying Dutch colors plied the waters of every ocean and inland waterway. By 1704, the Dutch East and West India Companies had established trade centers on virtually every continent. With the newly developed cast iron ovens being produced in large numbers, it stands to reason many of them were dispatched to the far corners of the Dutch empire as items of trade. What would you call ovens brought to your shores by the Dutch? It seems tenable, if not obvious, that this is how the Dutch oven earned its moniker.

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Etymology out of the way, the nagging question remains—peach or cherry cobbler? As a trade item, the Dutch oven was highly valued and cheaply acquired, making it popular to anyone with a fire and an appetite. The durable nature of the pot, combined with its ability to feed a camp crew with a variety of foods from stews to flat breads, made it central to daily life wherever it traveled. Over the next hundred years, the Dutch oven came into its own as a must-have addition to life on the move. During the arduous journey to South Africa’s interior, the Voortrekker settlers of Cape Colony (circa 1830s) took with them few items from home. Amongst those possessions were

The durable nature of the pot, combined with its ability to feed a camp crew with a variety of foods from stews to flat breads, made it central to daily life wherever it traveled. their cherished potjie pots. It was as if simultaneously, around the world, the Dutch oven in its various forms began appearing over fires from Asia to Africa. At about this time the Japanese created their own version of the Dutch oven, called a tetsunabe. Australian drovers, who pushed their cattle across the vast expanses of the Outback, used Bedourie ovens, which later evolved into a spun metal pot for improved durability and reduced weight. A century and a half after the first oven was chipped free of its sand mold, they were everywhere. Dutch merchants may have brought them to distant ports, but it was the intrepid traveler, or overlander if you will, that pushed them deep inland. In the Americas, the Dutch oven became something of a cultural icon. By the mid to late 1700s, the Dutch oven was as ubiquitous as the tricorne hat, gracing the hearth of nearly every home, rich or poor. It was part and parcel with Colonial America. In the book Wealth of Nations, published in 1776, Adam Smith suggested the wealth of his fledgling nation was not in gold, but in the manufacture of cast iron pots. Even Paul Revere played a roll in the storied legacy of the Dutch oven; some argue that he is responsible for introducing the flanged lid. If you have ever used such a lid, you will agree this was a marked improvement. The flange is essential for keeping hot coals, needed for optimal heating, securely perched atop the lid. Think of that the next time you stack coals on your oven in an effort to brown your biscuits. George Washington gets two entries into the annals of the Dutch oven. He is reported to have served his weary army rations from a Dutch oven during their frozen campaign at Valley Forge. His mother, in accordance with customs of the day, had her cast iron kitchen inventory, replete with Dutch ovens, included in her last will and testament. Paul Revere, George Washington and Adam Smith––this is good company. For many of us, the Dutch oven is something not often used at home, but more so to facilitate our meals on the move. Heavy and bulky, this ungainly lump of metal always makes the cut and

finds its way into our supplies. This was true for some of the most audacious and legendary overland journeys in American history. In 1804, the Lewis and Clark Expedition embarked on a trek into the great unknown of the American West. Included in their carefully chosen inventory of supplies was a Dutch oven. Considered so important to the success of their expedition, it was agreed that the Dutch oven would be listed as one of the few items they would never trade, sell, or sacrifice. The story of the early American West is forever intertwined with the legacy of the Dutch oven. Lewis and Clark may have brought the first oven westward, but they were by no means the last. Shortly after their famous expedition, throngs of mountain men, trappers, frontiersmen, homesteaders, and cowboys poured west. Amongst their carefully chosen belongings were Dutch ovens. During the California Gold Rush (1848-1855), tens of thousands of miners sustained their efforts with bellies full of sourdough bread. That bread, still central to the region, was baked, of course, in Dutch ovens. A decade later, John Wesley Powell’s bold expedition down the Green and Colorado Rivers was fueled largely on hard tack bread, baked each day in their Dutch oven. If the flavor of hard tack wasn’t bad enough, that same oven was used to wash dirty socks. Americans just can’t get enough of the Dutch oven. It’s even the official state cooking pot of Utah. Who knew? By the mid 1800s, the Dutch oven was more than just a common everyday item in household and in transit. It was a product of the now thriving industrial age. The Griswold Manufacturing Company, which was founded in 1865 in Erie, Pennsylvania, and initially produced door hinges, became one of the most respected manufacturers of Dutch ovens in the world. The Griswold Company closed their doors in 1957, but their Dutch ovens remain highly sought after collectibles to this day. The most well-known manufacturer of Dutch ovens today is without question, the Lodge Manufacturing Company, founded in 1896 by Joseph Lodge in South Pittsburg, Tennessee. For more than 114 years, the Lodge name has been synonymous with quality cast iron cookware and the descendants of Joseph Lodge continue to pilot the company to this day. The influence Lodge has over the world of cast iron is significant. Not only do they have a full compliment of enameled cast iron products and accessories, they have further delineated the qualifications of what defines a Dutch oven. To Lodge, a proper Dutch oven is described as this: a pot featuring a tight-fitting lid with a convex top and a smooth bottom. The Lodge Dutch “camp” oven is the variety we have come to love around the campfire. The camp oven has a flanged lid and short stubby legs to facilitate the application of coals beneath the pot. From the crude foundries of ancient China to the campsite just over the hill, the Dutch oven has served to fill the bellies and ambitions of countless travelers. From rabbit stew to Johnnycakes, it never fails to provide us with the needed nourishment to press ever onward. Take note the next time you’re in the backcountry: Listen carefully for the unmistakable clang of a cast iron lid against a Dutch oven. If you’re lucky, inside that oven you’ll find peach cobbler. It is, after all, better than cherry cobbler.

Classic Peach Cobbler

Serves: 10 (14-inch Dutch oven) | Cook time: 40 minutes Equipment: Cast iron Dutch oven, charcoal briquettes

1 stick butter 2 boxes white or vanilla cake mix 6 large cans sliced peaches in heavy syrup Cinnamon sugar (1/4 cup sugar combined with 2 tsp cinnamon) for dusting (optional)

Preparation

Prepare charcoal briquettes Rub inside of Dutch oven and lid (if desired) with cooking oil Drain 3 cans of peaches; pour into Dutch oven Add remaining 3 cans of peaches, undrained Pour cake mix on top of peaches Slice stick of butter into pats and put on top of cake mix Dust with cinnamon sugar mixture Replace lid

Cooking

Place Dutch oven over briquettes and place additional briquettes on lid according to oven size (see tip below) At 20 minutes, turn the Dutch oven 180 degrees (to ensure even cooking) Cook for the remaining 20 minutes. Cobbler is done when top is golden brown and peaches are soft.

Cooking TIPS

To achieve a perfect 350 degrees in your oven, take the diameter of the oven (in inches) and subtract three. This is the number of charcoal briquettes to place underneath. For the top, add three to the diameter. Example: a 12-inch oven would require nine briquettes on the bottom and 15 on the top to yield about 350 degrees.

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Continued from page 136

surges through your veins. Is this an ingenious suicide scheme? No. It’s an escape from the mundane, the return to a wilder life of real adventure. It’s pure excitement. Camping sites are not of the incubator-type found in Kruger National Park, partitioned from wild Africa with a labyrinth of wire—to keep the humans in. At Mana Pools, it’s common to have elephants breaking branches near your tent, buffalos scratching their backs on a Land Cruiser, or lions and hyenas moving in close at nightfall, drawn by strange smells. White meat, raw, must be a delicious meal.

It is a place where personal decisions dictate your freedom to roam, where your actions can reap great rewards…or cost you your life.

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Vervet monkeys, which run and scream like mad children, climb on top of the ablution block, urinate from high branches in what seems like spontaneous rain on an otherwise dry day, and send their young to inspect the supply crates of travelers—in search for soggy bread, cake-flavored plastic, or a dented Coca Cola can. Watching them is always quite a show. They hop onto the roof of our van like a gang of deranged acrobats, and spy the interior through the windshield. Then they contemplate the situation while scratching under their arms, as if they had their brains in their armpits. One of them, standing on the rearview mirror, thrusts its arm inside the slightly opened window. Nothing is within its reach. The monkey scratches its armpit again… he’s thinking. In frustration, he hangs from the glass and starts shaking it violently. In Mana Pools it’s easy to feel free. The fairness, the opportunity to walk amongst wild animals (who can kill and devour you if you make a mistake), make it a unique experience. In this environment you’ve got to trust your instincts. All of your senses must stay alert, even those that most humans put aside centuries ago due to our dull lives. Recalling a Frenchman who died a few weeks prior, the park ranger reminded us, after reciting the park rules several times, “You must think to stay alive.” He continued, “He was walking absentmindedly to a public phone, there, near the toilet, and came across an elephant. The elephant got scared, held him in its trunk, threw him on the ground, and stamped on him with its front legs. Then it kneeled on him.” Nothing can stop an upset elephant, and the best place to hide is always somewhere else. “If you want to see a dead elephant, follow the tracks to Vundu. We found it yesterday, shot by poachers who crossed the river at night. But this time the elephant walked away, wounded, before going down. We already cut the tusks, feet, skin, and tail and sent it to Harare. The park sells everything. We also cut out some meat and shared it amongst the park staff.” Meat? Elephant meat? Would it be possible to get ourselves some? We have a braai, but no meat. An empty barbecue is always a sad sight. Maybe we could we buy some meat from them? “I can’t sell it,” answers the ranger before nodding his head towards another man in the office. “But he can.”

Overland Journal Spring 2013

Thus, this carnivore (who is now writing of the wilds of Mana Pools), and his friends got hold of 3 kilos of elephant meat, already stripped for biltong. We bought some cold beers at the park ranger’s shop and off we went to have an elephant barbecue. At the Carnivore restaurant in Nairobi, Kenya, we had dined on zebra and crocodile. Those were true T-bones an experienced butcher had carefully cut, removing tendons and fat, and taking into account the size of the plate it would be served on. That was nothing like our strips of elephant meat, salted, with a little water, and now on the fire. “Elephant’s ready!” I announced a bit later. Anna and our Belgian friends, Jorick, Winnie, Ronald, and Sophie, who were also crossing Africa en route to Cape Town, sat down at the table. Elephant meat is tough and has a strong gamey taste; this must have been an old elephant. A hundred meters from us, a group of water buffalo sipped silently from the river. A secretary bird ran down the shoreline, then took flight for the safety of the trees. The sun was setting and there was time to go to the toilet before dark, before we became supper for other carnivores. It wasn’t hard to find the remains of our extraordinary dinner the next day. By the main trail, three fallen tree trunks framed a large bloodstain that marked the kill site. From there, a new track dodged a few trees, terminating at a vulture-covered corpse. I returned to the van for my camera and Swiss Army knife, then approach carefully, one step at a time. I scan my surroundings for shadows, for lions, shaking bushes, golden stains on the grass, but all is clear. I draw close; the vultures moan and fly away. Intestines as thick as the leg of a football player lie like a tangled anaconda on the dry soil. The skull bone appears brownish, the legs are missing, and the flesh has turned black. As I walk around the carcass and a toxic sour cloud surrounds me, I hold my breath. I see an old green Land Rover pull up and park beside our van. The rangers approach us, rifles in hand. “Are you mad? Don’t you know there’s lions around?” asks one of them. “Yes. That is why we’re here. We want to see them, but it looks as if they’ve already left,” I answer. “Nope, you don’t see them, but they’re there. Shouldn’t be doing this but…follow me.” The rangers, wearing green shorts and knee-high socks, march in a single-file line in front of us. A short distance out, the leader points to a spot in the bushes. We were just 40 meters from the rotting elephant corpse, and there was the lion. To his right one could make out the outline of a female lying in front of two young ones. They just stared at us with curious bewilderment as they had been watching me while I’d strolled like a dumb tourist around their lunch. Spectacular. Beautiful. Dangerous if one is not careful. Leaving the safety of my van to walk amongst Africa’s wild animals, to descend from my top rung on the proverbial food chain, was a primal impulse to take risks and find new personal limits. Since then, when I don’t dream of elephants lumbering around the Zambezi forests, I daydream of returning to this lost world. Pure adrenaline—this is Mana Pools.

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Photo: www.jamilabbasy.com

Overland Journal Spring 2013

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Pablo Rey

Photo by Chris Collard

Tail Lamp

Adrenaline 136

Walking on the wild side of the Mana Pools.

ew travelers know of Mana Pools, one of the most spectacular national parks in all of Africa. At first glance, it appears to be just another patch of protected bush land, scarred by seasonal flooding, then sprinkled with every species of wildlife. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site, but boasts no outstanding geological features. It’s not located inside a silent volcano like Ngorongoro; it doesn’t have facilities for wildlife observation found in Etosha; nor the endlessly sweeping plains of Masai Mara or the Serengeti, where the epic migration draws tens of thousands of visitors each year. Nope: Mana Pools National Park, lying south of the Zambian border in economically-ravaged Zimbabwe, doesn’t have any of that. What Mana Pools does provide, and in copious quantities, is adrenaline. Here, you can partake in an activity that is forbidden in the rest of the African national parks—stroll amongst lions, hyenas, and elephants without the escort of a park warden. Nobody will keep you from parking under the shadow of a baobab tree and straying unarmed in any direction, wherever your steps and common sense—or lack thereof—take you. It is a place where personal decisions dictate your freedom to roam, where your actions can reap great rewards…or Overland Journal Spring 2013

cost you your life. Your most beautifully crazy deed of the day, walking with the lion, is possible. You walk to the shore of the Zambezi River, imagining the steps of the first men here. Looking down, you find your foot rests in the fresh casting of what looks like a family-sized pizza. A group of 15 elephants lumbers slowly towards the river’s edge. There are two large males, a few females, some adolescents, and a couple of calves. To the left, a group of zebras hide amongst gnus and antelope, trying hopelessly to appear inconspicuous. Hippos, their eyes and massive nostrils barely above the water, clear their throats in chuckling grunts. You are there, amongst them, standing far from your vehicle, dead still. You are armed only with a Swiss penknife. On the opposite shore, in Zambia, a soft carpet of trees covers the foot of the mountains. The view is broad, the landscape impressive. It is October; the rainy season is coming and the air remains warm. You then let yourself go again, following slowly behind the group of elephants and towards the wind. Scanning the tall grass that surrounds you for lions, you hope not to find any. Your eyes fixate on the river’s edge; you are well aware of the river’s healthy crocodile population. Occasionally, one pokes its little eyes out of the water. Adrenaline Continued on page 134

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