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Overland Journal Gear 2014

Content 4

Best of Breed 21

Long-term Review: PIAA LP570 LED

Salsa Fargo Ti

Truck Vault Drawer System

Overland News: Explore

Tire Repair Kits for Motos

On the Cover: “Meanwhile in Russia, rivers pass for roads.” Cover graphic design by Wayne Watford. Back Cover: While en route to Mumbai, India, with Range Rover’s Silk Road Expedition, one of the country’s ubiquitous auto-rickshaw closes in on Editor-in-Cheif Chris Collard’s Overland Journal Gear 2014 rearview mirror. Photo by Chris Collard.

Overland Tested 39

Shocks

Triumph Tiger 800XC

Range Rover Hybrid

Hammocks

Gear 2014

Field Journal

Departments

Expeditions 7: Eurasia

Overland Post

105

Alpha Camper

Editor’s Column

113

Iran by Motorcycle

127

Classic Kit: Swiss Military Surplus

136

Tail Lamp: As Luck Would Have It

Overland Journal Gear 2014

We are adventurers. Constantly traveling. Testing and using gear in real-world situations. Gaining experience, which we readily share.

OUR RESUME:

7 continents 140 countries 316 years combined experience and counting...

Experience Matters We only know things when we live them

Gear 2014

Publisher and Chairman Scott Brady President and Director of Design Stephanie Brady Editor-in-Chief Chris Collard Chief Operations Officer Ray Hyland Chief Technology Officer Christian Pelletier Chief Business Development Officer Brian McVickers Chief Financial Officer Andre Racine Chief Creative Officer Sinuhe Xavier Senior Editor Christophe Noel Senior Technical Editor Graham Jackson Technical Editor James Langan Staff Editor Åsa Björklund Conservation Editor Alice Gugelev Medical Editor Dr. Jon Solberg, MD, FAWM Contributing Editors Bryon Bass, Tom Collins, Johno Ellison, Andrew Moore, Lois Pryce, Toby Savage, Chris Scott, Matthew Scott, Tom Sheppard, Gary and Monika Wescott Copy Editors Denise-Christine, Tena Overacker Cartographer David Medeiros Graphic Designer Chazz Layne Contributing Photographers Barry Andrews, Bruce Dorn Jack Dykinga, Ben Edmonson, Jeff Foott, Ace Kvale, Brian Slobe Operations Administrator Holly Bond Fulfillment Bo Rounsavall

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Overland Journal Gear 2014

OverlandPost

Mike Oestreich and the locomotive crew at Golden Spike National Historic Site in Northern Utah. Left: Mike and his locomotive crew were featured in the Spring 2013 story on the American emigrant trails.

Cobbler Cuisine

Surprise on Page 77

Romek Mikuliszyn 1997 80 Series Land Cruiser

The accurately described “crusty character of a bygone era” on the same page is longtime reenactment volunteer Ron Porter, and the engineer (not conductor) on page 73 is Ron Wilson. The other correction I’d like to point out is that the historic site is located at Promontory Summit, Utah, not Promontory Point which is 30 miles to the south. Both names are used in the article but there is a geographic difference: the Union Pacific and Central Pacific met at the Summit in 1869, revolutionizing Western overland travel in the process. I’ve had the pleasure of meeting several people in the overlanding community who I recognized from the magazine, including an Expeditions 7 member. If there are any future overlanders crossing Northern Utah, stop in at Golden Spike and ask for Fireman Mike. I’d be glad to swap a few stories or share some area backcountry route info.

I never imagined that I would actually enjoy something like cooking in your magazine (my cooking abilities are limited to boiling water), but undoubtedly I do. The reason I’m writing is not because of that, but because of the Classic Kit article on Dutch ovens (Spring 2013). Having read it, I have no doubts what cobbler Christophe Noel is fond of. However, whatever item it is that he is to cook, there seems to be a guarantee of it being sprinkled with a good dose of humor…so I’m for it!

A Mere 129°F

My wife and I were in the mountains near Death Valley on June 30 this year and we knew that near-record-breaking heat was predicted. The world record, 134°F, was recorded in Death Valley in 1913, so we felt compelled to head down to the valley floor. The attached photo was taken that afternoon. Because a ranger we spoke with said the digital thermometer at the visitor center tends to run high, I checked their website the next day. The official high for the day we were there was a mere 129°F.

braving the Richard Osborne lley. heat in Death Va

Overland Journal Gear 2014

We just returned from two weeks in southeastern Utah, where we had a fabulous time exploring Canyon Country. Keep up the good work. Richard Osborne 2006 Tacoma with ATC pop-up camper 2013 Wrangler Rubicon

The Summer 2013 issue was great, as always, but it held a bonus for me. I had the pleasant surprise of thumbing through the magazine as I walked back from my mailbox and finding a photo of myself on page 77 swinging the spike maul! I’m on the locomotive crew at Golden Spike National Historic Site, and other than operating the steamers, one of my duties is to drive the final iron spike during the reenactment of the completion of the [First] Transcontinental Railroad.

Mike Oestreich 2011 KLR 650 2001 Jeep XJ

Overland Journal Gear 2014

OverlandPost Adventurous Life

My mom (Carole Harris) loved the outdoors and our family went on many camping trips to Yosemite, Carpenteria, Big Sur, and other areas around California. My parents rode motorcycles in the 60s and 70s, mostly street bikes but also a few dirt bikes. I remember when she taught me to ride in the dirt when I was 12 years old. That was the start of her love for off-pavement adventures.

Carole Harris

She bought her first Toyota Land Cruiser in 1968. She test-drove Jeeps and Broncos, but settled on the Toyota because it could seat seven in stock form. This made a great family vehicle (she named it “Miss Demeanor” after her first horse), and she quickly got involved with a four-wheel drive club called the Waywegos. My dad tried roughing it in a tent and eating dust but decided it was not for him. This didn’t stop my mom though, as the rest of us kids enjoyed it. Mom was a great driver, watching carefully what others did. She excelled quickly and was respected as an equal by the men in the club. In 1972 she bought a new Land Cruiser and over the next 30 years drove or towed it to every popular four-wheel drive trail in California, Arizona, Utah, and Colorado, and even made several trips into Baja California. Mom also drove to Alaska twice.

In 2001, at age 73, she decided loading the Land Cruiser on her trailer and towing it to the desert was too difficult. She gave it to me and told me to keep it in the family and pass it down to my sons someday.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Lifetime Boots

I just finished reading the leather boot review in the Summer 2013 issue of the Journal and was excited to see the vintage-style Danner boot included. I own a pair of similar Fabiano boots purchased as a teenager in the 1970s, at no small cost. They were the most expensive boots the local outdoor store carried and have proven to be worth every cent. I’ve used them regularly for well over 30 years and have probably covered thousands of miles of trail. The red laces wore out long ago, but they still have the original Vibram sole, although somewhat thinner. While I purchased a pair of lightweight, breathable Lowa boots a few years ago for hiking, I still use the Fabianos at the local OHV park and for working in the yard. They are probably the most durable and comfortable footwear I’ve owned. David Ricker 2010 LR4 1991 RRC 1970 Series II

Connect Share Become a fan on Facebook to communicate with us and other readers and get up-to-date information on what we’re up to, the latest trips, and newest gear.

About three years ago, my friend Jim Clark gave me a copy of Overland Journal. I showed it to her and she loved it! She immediately subscribed and ordered several back issues. She often commented on how she looked forward to reading it cover to cover, sometimes more then once—she really missed the freedom and adventures she’d enjoyed so much. The Journal truly brought happiness to my mom and it was great to see. She recently passed away at age 87, but I want to thank Jim Clark for introducing Overland Journal to my mom and me.

Include your name, address, email address, daytime phone number, and the year and make of your vehicle. Letters may be edited for length and clarity.

Sincerely, Craig Harris

Where in the world has your Overland Journal been? Send us a photo, along with your name,

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Overland Journal Gear 2014

Contributors

Lois Pryce

Bryon Bass

Sinuhe Xavier

Weary of the daily grind in jargon-infested London media-land, Lois Pryce jacked in her job at the BBC to ride from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego astride her Yamaha XT225. Upon her return she wrote the book of this trip, Lois on the Loose, which was published in the U.S. and U.K., as well as being translated into German and Dutch. Itchy wheels struck again and it wasn’t long before she was poring over maps of Africa, plotting another adventure. In October 2006 she set off on a Yamaha TTR250 to ride from London to Cape Town, crossing the Sahara through Algeria and Niger, and continuing down the west coast through the Congo and Angola to South Africa. The tale of this trip is captured in her book Red Tape and White Knuckles. Lois lives on a Dutch barge in London with her husband, fellow motorcycle adventurer, Austin Vince.

For Bryon Bass, overland travel is often more a vocational necessity than a purely adventurous pursuit. While working on his Ph.D. in archaeology in Scotland, Bryon rode a BMW R100GS/PD loaded with research gear to Croatia and back every summer. After graduating he taught alpine field survey and excavation for the Department of Pre-and Protohistory, University of Zürich, and worked as a contract archaeologist in Switzerland. After enduring the corporate trenches he started his own consulting company, which led him to Africa, the Middle East, Europe, and the Americas. In addition to co-authoring articles on archaeology and photography, he’s a private pilot, scuba instructor, and wilderness EMT. His one regret is selling his pristine 1977 Toyota FJ40, though he still owns the R100GS/PD.

Sinuhe Xavier is perhaps the only washed up professional skier to become an award winning commercial director and photographer, having shot for Ford, Toyota, Gillette, and Spinal Tap. He is further distinguished by the fact that he did not pursue a career in directing films until 2003, when he traded a life in the mountains for the potentially more treacherous terrain of Hollywood. Most recently he has brought automotive campaigns to life with humanity for Toyota, Ford, and Jeep. Over the past several years, advertising agencies BBDO, TBWA Chiat Day, Saatchi, 180LA and Euro RSCG have all turned to Sinuhe to bring their unique visions to life. When he is not selling people things they don’t need, Sinuhe can be found derailing adventure-journal.com with his reviews and opinions or relaxing in the shade of a lonely juniper tree with his wife, Stephanie, and dog, Charlie.

Christophe Noel

Graham Jackson

Johno Ellison

Christophe Noel has been an avid backcountry traveler since he was too young to tie his own stitch-down hiking boots. As his feet have grown, so has his appetite for adventure. While bicycles are his passion, Christophe is an accomplished sea kayaker, backpacker, mountaineer and general vagabond. Having spent much of his life wandering the globe from Alaska to the Atlas Mountains and beyond, Christophe can now be found most days riding his mountain bike on the twisted single-track near his home in Prescott, Arizona.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Graham Jackson was born in Lesotho, Southern Africa. He grew up racing motorcycles, as well as helping his father design, build and race off-pavement buggies. At 10 years old, Graham completed his first safari across the Kalahari with his family in their Range Rover. That trip planted the seed for Graham’s lifelong overlanding obsession. In 2004 he and his wife completed a 30,000mile overland adventure from London to Cape Town. A scientist by trade, Graham tries to combine his interest in the natural world, his passion for overland travel, and his love of things mechanical. He is currently Director of Training for Overland Expo, a guide for No Limit Expeditions, and a NPTC certified off-road driving assessor.

Raised in Yorkshire, England, Johno Ellison left home at age 18 to join the Royal Air Force, where he trained as a helicopter pilot. The pursuit of higher education led him to Aston University where he studied sustainable product design. Johno’s longing for adventure has taken him through more than 70 countries and his escapades include driving a $250 car to Kazakhstan, hitchhiking through the Balkans, and backpacking around South America. At the start of 2011, Johno and his “It’s on the Meter” team departed on a 15-month expedition to travel around the world in a 1992 London black cab. In August 2011 they set a new world record for the longest taxi journey.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

EDITOR’S LETTER

FEAR AND PAIN

. . . our experience is often predicated on our level of preparedness. Not only is it important to have our vehicle and gear in order, but also to settle into the proper state of mind.

A few years ago I was standing on a platform affixed to the edge of the Batoka Canyon (which spans between Zimbabwe and Zambia) with my heels hanging over the abyss below. Beneath me the cliff wall fell away several hundred feet before being absorbed by a precipitous field of boulders and acacia trees. I was working on a story about African adrenaline sports, and this “ride” was called the Gorge Swing. The operator, a local from a nearby village, checked my harness and the two carbineers that attached me to a cable that stretched across the expanse behind me. Then, in a heavily accented voice he began a countdown: “five…four…three…two…tuck your chin, whiplash…one.” I leaned back. As I began the 100-foot free fall my mind was hurled into a fear-induced state of horror; my eyes, now locked in tunnel vision, transfixed on the faces of people on the platform. I was upside down, the rocky cliff wall streamed by my feet, the faces fell away into the sky, and I was certain I was going to die. This was by far the scariest thing I’d ever done…intentionally. When my feet were back on terra firma I reflected on something my karate sensei, Vince Bueno, shared with me one day as I stepped onto the sparring mat in our dojo. He said, “Fear and pain are God’s way of reminding you that you are still alive. Don’t let them control you.”

16 16

The next day I was standing on the Victoria Bridge with my toes hanging over the edge. The verdant water of the Zambezi River swirled 330 feet below and eddied its way to the center of the gorge. There was a strap wrapped tightly around my ankles and attached to a rather frayed bungee cord. Though I’d watched a dozen people stand there before me, meekly stepping off in semi-fetal positions, I excitedly launched myself into the abyss with purpose. A swan dive, I thought, would be appropriate for the occasion. The difference between these two events was that I was totally unprepared for the first—I’d forgotten my sensei’s wise words. Though I’d examined the harness and rigging, I hadn’t thought through what I was about to experience. Nor did I anticipate the adrenaline, the fear. I simply let it happen and let fear consume me. Overland Journal Gear 2014

You may be wondering what this has to do with overland travel. Over the years I’ve found a lot of similarities. There are often many unknowns when we head into the backcountry. Whether it is the deserts of the American West, Canada’s Great White North, or the Kalahari, our experience is often predicated on our level of preparedness. Not only is it important to have our vehicle and gear in order, but also to settle into the proper state of mind. I believe this is central to a positive experience. I’m currently preparing for a trek across Antarctica with Scott Brady and Greg Miller of the Expeditions 7 team, and have to admit it is weighing heavily on my mind. Antarctica is a wild and unforgiving place, one without a safety net if things go sideways. Our goal is to drive 2,400 kilometers from the Russian base at Novo Station to the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, where the highest temperature on record is 9.9°F (as I write this NOAA’s website states it is -36°F). There are no roads, map details are limited, and ice sheets ebb and flow seasonally forming pressure ridges and crevasses. Unlike treks I’ve done across Australia, South America, and Africa, there are no guarantees in Antarctica, and I consider this to be the first true expedition I’ve participated in. Though I’ve sourced the right equipment (NEMO expedition tent, sleeping pad, and down sleeping bag, a pair of -100°F Baffin boots, a 66 North polar suit, and other weather-appropriate gear), I’m mentally preparing myself for the extreme cold. Preparing myself for the pain of losing sensation in my fingers, nose, and toes, of pulling icicles, whiskers attached, off my balaclava, working (and breathing) at 10,000 feet elevation, and sleeping on ice for several weeks. I’ll depart for Cape Town in a few days and the piles of gear spread about my house are starting to make their way into duffle bags and Pelican cases. I’m just now getting excited. I still have a bit of, well, fear to manage but I think it’s mostly the fear of pain, which I’m pretty sure I can deal with. The good news is that when it comes, I’ll know I’m still alive. CHRIS COLLARD Editor-in-Chief

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Overland Journal Gear 2014

Best of Breed 21

Long-term Review: PIAA LP570 LED

Salsa Fargo Ti

Truck Vault Drawer System

Overland News: Explore

Tire Repair Kits for Motos

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Review

News from the Trade Exploring the newest gear for overlanding Long-Term

By Chris Collard

PIAA LP570 LED Lights The Editor’s Choice award winner, one year later.

The PIAAs have come in contact with objects much more dense than bugs, have been submerged in creek crossings more than once, and have the scars to prove it.

n the 2013 Gear issue we undertook one of the most exhaustive gear tests in the history of the magazine. The subject was LED driving lights, which were divided into two categories: “compact” and “large round.” The nine units selected were then subjected to every test in the book. Or at least, every test we could muster. We compared beam pattern, intensity, and range. We measured color temperature and luminous output with a Sphere Optics integrating sphere and spectrometer, subjected them to IP68 submersion tests, and analyzed thermal degradation during extended use. It was rough and several entrants didn’t make the grade. However, as with all our gear comparisons, someone came out on top. In the “large round” category, the Editor’s Choice award went to the PIAA LP570. The LP570 implements two rear-facing 5-watt LEDs which are projected by a full-width, half-sphere reflector with a Cartesian-style grid molded in. The outer lens is optics-free polycarbonate, pressfitted to an aircraft-grade cast aluminum housing. Below, a composite base, vibration-dampening rubber pad, and stainless steel hardware keep it secured to the bumper with minimal, if any, vibration. In testing, a single unit emitted a respectable 2.5 lux at 700 feet distance, and the integrating sphere revealed a true output of 626 lumens (all lights emitted only about 25 percent of manufacturers’ claims). Thermal buildup was minimal, performance degradation was less than 10 percent, and current draw was a scant 1.83 amps. After testing, I mounted the LP570s on my Tacoma, where they’ve been for the past 12 months. In that time they’ve led me through the Southern California deserts, over slickrock near Moab, Utah, and survived a month on Baja’s backroads. They’ve come in contact with objects much more dense than bugs, have been submerged in creek crossings more than once, and have the scars to prove it. The PIAA LP570 continues to impress me, and I can confirm that my Editor’s Choice still stands firm. piaa.com, 800-525-7422 Clockwise from top: The PIAAs have been mounted to our Editor-In-Chief’s Tacoma for the last 12 months. Composite mounting base is wide, sturdy, and has a rubber vibration pad. Our Cartesian grid whiteboard rendered a 35-degree spread (y-axis) with a 10-degree sweet spot in the center. Illumination is smooth and even from about 40 feet to over 1,000 feet.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

News from the Trade Exploring the newest gear for overlanding By Christophe Noel

Salsa Fargo Ti

The 2014 Fargo Ti from Salsa Cycles may be the only bike you need.

Part mountain bike, part touring rig, the titanium Fargo is a witch’s brew of exotic ingredients borrowed from other platforms to create an adventure bicycle without peer.

f you could have just one bicycle, what would it be? If you’re an avid rider you know that question is moot, as one bike is never enough. However, I do have my own personal answer, and it is the 2014 Salsa Fargo Ti. Part mountain bike, part touring rig, the titanium Fargo is a witch’s brew of exotic ingredients borrowed from other platforms to create an adventure bicycle without peer. At its core it is a 29er hardtail mountain bike, giving it enough brawn to tackle moderate singletrack without complaint, even when loaded with a full complement of bikepacking bags. The slightly taller handlebar height paired to the lowered bottom bracket and elongated chainstays gives the rider a comfortable riding position and stable handling. The drop bars are the one attribute that many struggle to reconcile, but they offer a variety of hand positions, making long days more comfortable. For 2014, the Salsa Fargo Ti has undergone a significant metamorphosis. The frame is now adorned with Salsa’s much-loved adjustable Alternator rear dropouts, providing owners the option of running a single-speed setup or traditional geared drivetrain, and even accepts a Rohloff internally-geared hub. The highly sculpted and tapered through-axle fork is now constructed of carbon fiber for maximum stiffness. Diving into aggressive turns, the new fork is precise and accurate without sacrificing too much vertical compliance. The SRAM DoubleTap® shifters are paired to a 2 by 10 drivetrain and a clutched SRAM X.0 rear derailleur keeps the chain nice and snug when bouncing through the chop. Full-length cable housings thwart even the most invasive muck and Avid BB7 cable-actuated disc brakes keep trail adjustments and repairs simple and easy. Although the titanium frame rides with buttery smoothness, the Cane Creek Thudbuster seatpost makes for added comfort at the end of a long day. Festooned with braze-ons, it’s possible to fit the Fargo with as many as five water bottle cages, or three of Salsa’s proprietary Anything Cages for additional gear storage. As we have come to learn, the Salsa team is comprised of experienced riders who understand what it means to adventure by bike. It’s not just their company slogan, it’s clearly part and parcel of their individual lifestyles. They’ve created an instant icon in the Fargo Ti. Just looking at it makes me want to go far. salsacycles.com, 877-668-6223 Clockwise from top: The titanium frame is now paired to a full carbon fiber fork. The 2 by 10 drivetrain is easy to manage and offers a wide range of gearing. The wide flare of the handlebar gives the Fargo Ti a stable stance.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

News from the Trade Exploring the newest gear for overlanding By Brian McVickers

Security on the Road We install a Truck Vault drawer system for secure storage on the road.

Using their intuitive website we entered our vehicle model, the configuration that would suit our needs, and the depth of the drawers.

ruck Vault has a long history of providing cargo management systems for the military, law enforcement, fire, and search and rescue professionals. There are a number of reasons for this: the first is quality of construction and the second is security (thus the name). With a wide range of systems available, from single drawers to elaborate first-responder command centers, choosing the right unit for my family’s 2000 4Runner was easy. Using their intuitive website we entered our vehicle model, the configuration that would suit our needs, and the depth of the drawers. Options were 6- or 10-inch depths, single or double drawers, foldout tables, lighting, locks, color, and the list goes on. We opted for a 10-inch single-drawer model with flip-up panels over the wheel wells for added storage. To accommodate longer items such as tripods and rifles, we chose diagonal interior partitions. Though partitions are normally bolted in, we decided to use well-secured Velcro to increase loading options. The upper deck has three sections of aluminum tie down rail for securing cargo, to which we attached a Front Runner refrigerator slide. Fabricated from .75-inch plywood that is glued and screwed together, construction is durable. The drawer rolls on several ovalshaped bearings that seem fit for the job. However, when fully loaded and extended, it does require a little upwards pressure to close, and locks must be manually latched to prevent the drawer from opening on inclines. The unit sits snugly between the wheel wells, and tie down rings allow it to be secured to factory floor-mounted d-rings. After about 5,000 miles of running around town and country, we’ve yet to hear any rattles, even when the Vault is full of gear. In addition to providing handy storage, the Truck Vault has added peace of mind when we need to leave the 4Runner in camp, at a trailhead, or parked in town. Made in USA. truckvault.com, 800-967-8107

Clockwise from top: Robust construction allows the loaded drawer to be fully extended while also supporting heavy items such as refrigerators and water jugs. The diagonal dividers accommodate long guns, chairs, or camera tripods. Drawer fronts are composite and locks are a Kaba Simplex five-button deadbolt unit with a keyed lockout. Two additional steel plates protect the drawer from being pried open. Short dividers allow for custom configuration.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Overland News Showcasing expedition travelers and resources from around the globe By Matthew Scott, Photography by Spike Reid

Explore Planning a yak trek across Mongolia or a Jeep trip to Death Valley? The Royal Geographical Society’s “Explore” symposium will inspire you to head out the door. 27

fellow traveler once told me that formulating an idea is easy, it’s the execution that is the hard part. The act of simply embarking on an extended long-distance trip might be one of the most difficult challenges you’ll face. Knowledge can be acquired, vehicles and equipment can be purchased, en route breakdowns fixed, and difficult situations overcome, but the courage to follow a dream takes more than time or money. Whether that courage is mustering the strength to leave the comfort of home and that which is known and familiar, or informing your family that you’ve just quit your job and intend to drive around the world (and take them with you), the act of actually leaving may not be easy. “Explore” is an annual gathering at the Royal Geographical Society (RGS) in London, in conjunction with the Institute of British Geographers. It’s a place you can go to find out that you’re not alone, and that you are certainly not clinically insane. Standing amongst the attendees and presenters, your ambitions to have anything but a normal life is, well, totally normal. You’ll probably find your vehicle-based plans are quite modest, as the sort of people you’ll encounter are those motivated to hop backwards from London to Singapore, or drive a Model T from Paris to Beijing. Walking the halls of the RGS is quite frankly worth the trip on its own—hanging on the walls are images from which childhood dreams are made. Mounted in decadent rooms are portraits of Cook, Scott, and other greats of British exploration, poised proudly amongst the thousands of books and maps containing the fruits of expeditions past. I remember watching Michael Palin (RGS President from 2009-2011) plan his adventures to far-off places within the halls of the society.

Clockwise from left: In the Ondaatje Theatre, all the delegates listen, often in awe, to many adventurers who have returned from far away lands. Al Humphreys and Leon McCarron introduced the premiere of Into the Empty Quarter, the film they made in Oman. Teams who had recently returned from fieldwork overseas in countries like Uganda and Cambodia introduced their research projects at the speed-networking poster session. Team volunteers helped Shane Winser and Tilly Alcayna (far right) run the Explore weekend; they also facilitated adventure planning.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Overland News Showcasing expedition travelers and resources from around the globe

RGS Explore Explorers Paul Archer

A veteran of It’s on the Meter, the recordbreaking round-the-world taxi journey that led him through over 50 countries, Paul Archer was the perfect resource for those looking to drive around the world by more obscure means. His insight from traveling through volatile countries such as Iran, Iraq, Afghanistan, and Pakistan certainly didn’t hurt either.

Walking the halls of the RGS is worth the trip—hanging on the walls are images from which childhood dreams are made.

“Explore” brings together some of the most highly regarded professionals of modern-day expedition and fieldwork, and pairs them with lesser-experienced individuals interested in leaving behind mediocrity and exploring our extraordinary world. Care to download some firsthand knowledge from Ranulph Fiennes’ right-hand man, Max Adventure owner Mac Mackenney? Just attend one of the workshops they host. Looking for help on marketing and PR, how to raise funds, or how to best photograph your trip? What about bicycle expeditions or polar exploration? It’s all at your fingertips. No matter how specialized your trip or expedition, you’ll be able to find a seminar that suits your needs. If a class doesn’t exist or a question can’t be answered, the power of networking at this event is without comparison. Eventually you’ll end up finding someone who can help. The personal accounts from people who have decided to break free from the constraints of modern society and hit the road perfectly compliment the professional instruction available. Combine this with the distinct lack of pretension that one might expect from a “royal” society and it is easy to understand why the event is growing year after year. As an adventurer, or aspiring adventurer, one can’t help but feel at home within the celebrated halls of the Royal Geographical Society. Events like “Explore” exist to foster upcoming generations who continue to push the boundaries of exploration. While “Explore” is an entirely appropriate name for this event, a more appropriate designation might be “Inspire.” After leaving, the excuses that prevent many of us from venturing away from the known, the safe, from our dreams, begin to become less and less believable. After all, explorers are made, not born. Usually they just need a bit of inspiration, and you can certainly find it at “Explore.” The chair of the Education Projects panel, Jamie Buchanan-Dunlop, gives advice to aspiring adventurers.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Mac Mackenney

Whether he’s crossing the Bering Strait in a modified Land Rover Defender, or making a record-breaking run from London to Cape Town, Mac Mackenney is one of the planet’s most experienced overlanders. As the go-to guy for Sir Ranulph Fiennes, he’s amassed an immense amount of skill in logistics, ensuring that things run smoothly, no matter the task.

Gisli Jonsson

An expert vehicle builder and consultant to Top Gear, Gisli Jonsson is one of the most experienced polar drivers in the entire world. He’s driven more miles in Antarctica than any other person alive, and knows the glacier fields of his native Iceland better than most know their own neighborhood.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Riding on Sunshine Flat got you down? We review four of the best options for repairing moto tires in the field. By James Langan

ire punctures are the most common “breakdown” for dual-sport riders. Unfortunately, road service is often unavailable where we ride, and with the exception of those running sidecar outfits, spares are rarely carried. Tubeless tires are easily repaired with a plug, and a can of Fix-a-Flat may seal tubes, but patching a tire or tube will require additional tools and a bit of elbow grease. Carrying the appropriate repair kit for your tires is the best way to continue riding on air…rather than rim. Overland Journal Gear 2014

Stop & Go International Inc.

Deluxe Tube-Type Motorcycle Tire Repair Kit $40

ill Merriman, fellow motorcyclist and president of Stop & Go, is a pioneer in the motorcycle tire repair kit business; he’s been doing it for 32 years. With eight different repair kits and several inflation options, Stop & Go offers something for every application. The Deluxe Tube-Type Motorcycle Tire Repair Kit is different from the other kits in this review, as it is specifically designed for tube-type tires. While auto-style plug kits are fine for tubeless tires, when you need to repair a tube in the field (rather than replacing the damaged unit) you are going to need patches, glue, a buffer, and a host of other tools. This kit contains three steel tire levers, a handful of 2-inch and 1.25-inch round patches, a 3-inch oblong patch, tube of rubber cement, buffer/roller-wheel combination tool, and a spare valve cap with a core remover. What makes this kit unique is Stop & Go’s engine air pump system. The pump includes four threaded sparkplug adapters which cover the range of most engines, and a 60-inch inflation hose. There are two laminated instruction sheets: one for repairing tube-type moto tires, the other providing details on how to use the air pump. Everything fits snuggly into a heavy-duty vinyl pouch that measures 10 by 4 by 1.5 inches, and weighs 2.4 pounds. Stop & Go products are specifically designed for motorcycle and powersports enthusiasts. If this piece of kit doesn’t fit your needs, I suggest you investigate some of their other offerings. stopngo.com, 815-455-9080

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Clockwise from top: One of many kits offered by Stop & Go, this unit is made specifically for tubetype tires. The engine-driven inflation system includes four spark plug adaptors. Three tire levers facilitate removal and replacement. Three patch sizes, rubber cement, and buffing/stitching tool.

BlackJack

Kt-220 Compact Repair Kit

$46

hough BlackJack’s Compact Tire Repair Kit with Sport Handles doesn’t necessarily target adventure motorcycling, when I noticed it at the 2012 SEMA show I thought its relatively compact dimensions would work well for moto applications. Family-owned and operated, the Missouri-based company manufactures almost everything related to tire repair: plugs, patches, gauges, tools, valves, caps, inflators, air chucks, and related glues and chemicals. Had we known about these folks earlier on they would have been included in our Fall 2012 4WD tire repair kit test. The BlackJack Kt-220 comes in a sturdy plastic case (with a real hinge) and measures 8 by 5 by 2.25 inches. Weight is 1.4 pounds. Designed for tubeless tires, the kit contains 20 4-inch selfvulcanizing nylon plugs, a small jar of lubricant, reaming probe, plug insertion needle tool, and a razor blade. Though relatively compact, the ergonomically designed Sport Handles have a good feel (even in my size 11 mitts) and allow for plenty of leverage when reaming a puncture and setting the tire plug. The instruction sheet, which is in English and Spanish, is smartly affixed to the underside of the lid to avoid being misplaced. The handles can be removed from the insertion needle and reaming probe with an included hex key to allow for extra room for patches, glue, and/or CO2 cartridges. The addition of these items would further improve this very versatile yet compact repair kit for a dual-sport moto or 4WD. blackjacktirerepair.com, 816-872-1158

Clockwise from top: The plastic case has room for a few extra bits. The BlackJack kit includes everything needed for the repair of tubeless tires. The compact Sport Handles are ergonomically designed and sturdy enough when additional insertion force is needed. A tin of tire lube will make inserting plugs much easier.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Dynaplug Pro

Stainless Steel Tire Repair Kit

$70

mart, efficient, and innovative designs appeal to my critical mind. When they’re also very small I like them even more. Building on a decade of input from users, the Dynaplug was recently completely redesigned by its Stanford-educated inventor, Jim Kerner. The beauty of the Dynaplug Pro, which is a pint-sized plug kit, is that all components are contained within a beautifully machined stainless steel tool/handle. The unit is waterproof, measures in at a minuscule 3.75 by 0.87 inches, and weighs a mere 6.5 ounces. Though the plugs are the same as those provided with the previous model, everything else is new…and small. A sharply pointed brass tip on the leading end of the plug requires less effort than conventional plugs. Sheathing the plug is a stainless steel tube, which protects the yarn during insertion, and the brass tip keeps the plug inside the tire during the process. The kit also includes a reaming tool and air stopper, each of which secures to the handle/case for use. To initiate a repair, remove debris, insert air stopper if needed, insert plug, and cut off the excess. Excluding the brass tip, the plugs are slightly longer than 1 inch; long enough for motorcycle tires and could even be used on 4WD tires. The patented Dynaplug Pro comes with eight plugs (three inside the tool plus a five-pack of refills), has a limited lifetime warranty, and single-plug repairs are UTAC certified up to 16-penny nail-sized holes. If added insertion pressure is needed, the company also offers a larger retrofittable Pro Xtreme end cap. For the ultra weight conscious, an aluminum version ($50) and the 2-ounce Ultralite are available. dynaplug.com, 530-345-8000

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Clockwise from top: From design to packaging, everything about the Dynaplug Pro kit is impressive. The air stopper, three preloaded plugs, and a reaming tool fit inside the tool/handle. At less than 4 inches in length, the Dynaplug system is very compact. Though slightly longer than 1 inch, these narrow plugs are good for holes up to the size of a 16-penny nail.

Extreme Outback Products

Powersports Puncture Repair Kit

$30

eorge Carousos, the proprietor of Extreme Outback Products, has a knack for sourcing appropriate gear for backcountry travelers and packaging it in unique and practical ways. The Powersports Puncture Repair Kit, a comprehensive and compact option for dual-sport, quad, or UTV enthusiasts, is the perfect example of such a product. A small military-style pouch contains high-temp valve cores, metal valve caps with core tools atop, rubber cement, 15 yarn plugs, a host of round and square patches, a small buffer and patch wheel, spare valve stem, 4-way valve tool, and a razor blade knife. With cubic inches in mind, the reaming tool and selection of insertion needles are stored in the T-handled tool. A sliding cap closes the compartment at one end. The canvas bag measures 5 by 3 by 3.5 inches and the entire kit weighs about 13 ounces. I’m told that a new metal T-handle will soon be replacing the plastic one; adding tire spoons would make this a complete package for tire removal and tire or tube repair. We’re not the only journalists who think George Carousos has great ideas. In 2009 an international media panel awarded the Extreme Outback Products Powersports Kit the SEMA Global Media Award. extremeoutback.com, 866-447-7711

Clockwise from top: Short of the inclusion of an air compressor and tire spoons, the Extreme Outback kit contains everything needed for tube or tubeless tire repairs. The reamer and three insertion needles are stowed in the handle. Rubber cement, patches, and custom-made (adapted) buffer and patch wheel tools. Fifteen 4-inch tire plugs are included.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Overland Tested 39

Shocks

Triumph Tiger 800XC

Range Rover Hybrid

Hammocks

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Shock Therapy We put five of the world’s leading shocks through abuse worthy of Dakar in a head-to-head three-state shootout. By Chris Collard

Overland Journal Gear 2014

hocks are one of the unsung heroes of the backcountry. After being shoehorned between the chassis and the frame, they are for the most part forgotten about. Working in conjunction with the springs, they are the interface between bone-jarring contours of the trail and a fractured spine. Tucked into dark and lonely recesses, shocks are peppered by flying gravel, choked by dust, sprayed with sleet and rain, and occasionally buried in mud, sand, or snow. In the process we heat them to temperatures that will blister a finger, beat the daylights out of them for hours or days on end, and expect them to work on demand like an Energizer bunny every time we turn the key. When it comes to selecting a shock there are as many choices as there are flavors of jellybeans. The recipe is not etched in stone, and depending on your vehicle and driving style, personal selection will vary. For this review our team delves into the dirty details of shock design and real-world performance. Our findings have been, dare we say… shocking.

Testing and Considerations

Though our quest for overland adventures takes us to remote areas in the backcountry, the reality is that the majority of miles we drive are traveling to and from the point where we leave the pavement. While it would be easy to limit testing to off-pavement environments, the aforementioned reality confirms the fact that on-road characteristics are equally if not more important. Another significant note is that many off-pavement handling characteristics can be determined during a normal day of commuting—picture Los Angeles with lots of stop-and-go traffic, high-speed braking, and emergency lane changes. For this reason we divided our evaluation into three sections: closed-course road and track, lab testing on a shock dynamometer (dyno), and in wide-open desert runs in northern Nevada. To make sure each product received an equal shake, we needed to test them on an identical platform (rather than with a fleet of staff vehicles). The solution came from Chrysler in the form of a 10th Anniversary Jeep Rubicon, to which we installed a 2.5-inch TeraFlex Budget Boost lift. The objective of the suspension kit was to mimic typical vehicle preparation while maintaining as much of the factory geometry as possible. By retaining the stock springs we would avoid favoring any specific shock manufacturer. We chose to evaluate standard tube shocks (without remote reservoirs or bypasses) from original manufacturers rather than private label offerings. They could be adjustable or non-adjustable, and monotube or twin-tube design. The one adjustable unit in the review, the Rancho RS9000XL, was set to its intermediate setting for all comparative tests. While there are advantages to remote-reservoir and bypass designs, such as improved heat dissipation and extended stroke in applications where real estate between the axle and chassis is limited (not to mention they look really cool), the advantages come with a significantly higher price point. If you have entertained shelling out the big bucks, stay tuned, as we’ll be testing the industry’s premium offerings in an upcoming issue. While this test takes into consideration fit and finish, quality of construction, and lab testing data, we need to acknowledge that each of us have different driving styles and opinions of what a well-performing suspension should feel like. If you like to meander down the trail at a turtle’s pace and prefer a Cadillac-smooth highway ride, your shock preference will be different from someone who likes to charge flat Overland Journal Gear 2014

out down a Baja two-track. I happen to like both, and it is likely that choosing a shock will always come with a slight compromise. In short, while ride comfort is inherently subjective, performance and control are much less so. Before delving into testing parameters we need to review the technical nomenclature, how valving works, and the differences between mono and twin-tube construction. The products chosen for this test are from Bilstein, Old Man Emu, FOX, ICON Vehicle Dynamics, and Rancho. We invited King and Fabtech, but they declined to participate.

Monotube vs. Twin-tube

Though monotube and twin-tube shocks are similar in exterior appearance and function, there are differences in how they accomplish the task of damping. Monotube With a monotube, the tube not only acts as an external casing, but also as a cylinder for the piston and valving assembly. This design incorporates a second free-floating piston that completely separates the shock’s oil from an area of pressurized nitrogen gas (180230 psi) within the tube. As the shock is compressed or extended, the floating piston moves in synchrony with the fixed piston and valving assembly, compressing or expanding the gas volume. The design eliminates the need for an exterior tube and allows for unrestricted mounting positions. Twin-tube A twin-tube works similarly to a monotube with respect to how the piston and disc assemblies manage the flow of oil. However, rather than separating the nitrogen with a floating piston, gas resides in an exterior tube and is typically under much less pressure. As the shock is compressed or extended, oil is transferred to and from the exterior tube through a “base” valve based on identical dimensions (diameter and body length). There are pros and cons to each design.

Comparing the anatomy of a monotube versus a twin-tube shock we see differences in how the oil and nitrogen gas are managed. (Image by BSB Manufacturing.) Opposite: A detailed look at a piston and disc stack reveals compression and rebound ports, bleed holes, and disc seats.

Monotube

Twin-tube

Pros

Cons

• Improved heat dissipation • No restriction on installation angle • Lower weight

• Heats up faster • Higher stress on seals • Shorter shaft stroke • Tube damage disables shock

• Longer shaft travel • Light damage to outer tube does not disable shock • Longer warm-up time • Lower stress on seals • Slower heat dissipation • Restricted installation position • Heavier

Anatomy of Shock Valving

ing. Temperatures ranged from fairly cool (not registering) to blisteryour-finger hot (230°F). Front shocks typically ran cooler than the rear, largely due to better exposure to air flow. Twin-tubes took longer to heat up (more mass) and appeared to run cooler, though the temperature at the piston valve was most likely much hotter than the exterior. Monotubes heated up faster but typically did a better job of dissipating that energy. We also recorded exterior temperatures during a series of dyno tests.

Parasitic Drag

While shock systems of the early 20th century were based on friction created by leather straps drawn across wooden blocks, the parasitic drag created by seals and other components is now considered undesirable. For example, if you physically raise the front of your vehicle from its neutral stance it will settle back down in a slightly higher position. This is due to friction of the suspension components. Because parasitic drag also creates heat, shock manufacturers are becoming increasingly focused on keeping it to a minimum.

Cavitation and Fade

The magic of shock valving is in the design of the piston, discs, and bleed holes. The piston is machined steel with a series of flow-through ports that allow the shock’s oil to flow from one side of the piston to the other during the rebound (2) and compression (5) strokes. Spring steel discs (1), which function to restrict the flow of fluid, are “stacked” to each side of the piston. The shock’s shaft slips through the piston’s shaft orifice (3) and the entire assembly (shim stacks and piston) is bolted to it. The diameter, thickness, and number of discs determine the amount of damping at a given shaft velocity. Bleed ports (4), unrestricted holes in the piston, allow for small amounts of fluid to flow freely without opening the disc stack (1). They affect low-velocity shock movement such as when cruising down a smooth section of freeway. Manufacturers can adjust this by adding or “capping” bleed holes (8). When fluid pressure exceeds bleed hole capacity (such as hitting a divot in the road where shaft velocity would increase) the first disc in the stack (the larger one at the base) is forced open, allowing fluid to flow past and the shaft to travel as needed. As pressure increases, the smaller (stiffer) discs yield to allow additional flow and increased shaft velocity. Rebound valving is predominantly more aggressive, a trait that is accomplished through smaller ports (2) and discs (1). Manufacturers also “preload” rebound discs by recessing their seat (9), which creates a clamping affect on the outer lip (10) and increases the pressure needed to let fluid pass.

Thermal Management

While the valving assembly is busy damping your ride, it is also turning some of the suspension’s kinetic energy into thermal energy. Because excessive heat can damage components, it needs to be dissipated. To assess thermal buildup we affixed thermal indicators (with a range of 160°F to 230°F) to a front and rear shock during our desert test-

Shock fade, or the loss of effective damping, occurs when the fluid within cavitates. The effect is a softer or “springier” ride. Cavitation occurs when a fluid is subjected to rapid changes in negative pressure or direction. While commonly thought to be the formation of bubbles, it is actually the buildup of cavities, or vacuum voids. The most common form in shocks is “pressure” cavitation, which is caused by the lack of nitrogen gas pressure. When the system is brought back to equilibrium, vacuum voids implode, generating micro shockwaves that can actually wear or damage components in the immediate proximity. To this extent, manufacturers go to great lengths to engineer valving that reduces the possibility of cavitation.

Nomenclature

Industry jargon for handling characteristics—effort, traceability, harshness, and yaw response—gets a little tricky, so bear with me on this and it will all make sense. You may even want to sit in your rig and visualize each of following. Predictability, controllability, and traceability: Predictability and controllability contribute to the level of confidence you have to put the vehicle where you want it, knowing it will react as expected. Traceability is determined by the ability of the vehicle to carve a constant-radius turn without the driver having to make adjustments to steering. Wellbalanced, or matched shocks lend to good traceability. Impact damping, harshness, and impact shock: A shock with positive impact damping will absorb a bump firmly, then release on the rebound stroke with control. Harshness relates to how abruptly or harshly an impact is felt (impact shock). A washboard road is a good place to identify these attributes. G-out and heave-out: G-out occurs when you fully compress all four corners of the suspension (e.g. a spirited entry into a sand wash or through whoop de doos). Heave-out occurs when the suspension (front, rear, or combination of both) is undervalved (soft) for the conditions, and upon exiting the sand wash the rear of the vehicle tends to “heave” up. Overland Journal Gear 2014

On center, initial feedback, and effort On Center is how solidly the steering wheel finds center position, or how far from “center” do you begin to feel initial feedback when initiating a gradual turn. Effort is defined as how much feedback, or resistance, is felt with a given amount of input to the wheel. During testing we placed a series of red “tick marks” on the dash to provide a visual and quantitative reference to the main shaft angle (steering shaft). Yaw response, body roll, yaw damping, balance, matching Yaw response is how quickly the vehicle reacts to a given input to the steering wheel. Body roll is the amount of vehicle body lean during this input (e.g. an abrupt lane change). Yaw damping is defined as how quickly the vehicle settles back into a neutral or level position. This is referred to as cycle damping and is measured as follows: ¼ cycle damping would lose 25 percent of its energy (body roll) with the first return to center. As it rolls to the opposite side and back it would lose another 25 percent (think cushy Cadillac suspension…not good). If the shocks are matched fore and aft with regard to damping, they would be considered balanced, and body roll will have little affect on directional control (given the suspension is geometrically correct). For example, if the rear shocks are undervalved (too soft and not matched with the front), the vehicle will squat in a hard turn or lane change and induce a diagonal exit.

Joe Bacal What I look for as a ‘Test Driver’

Vehicle dynamics are very complex, but when you break the subjective components down they become clear and easier to identify. When comparing one shock to the next, everything from the tires to the vehicle needs to be constant. Seat-of-the-pants technique is really what a test driver depends on. I don’t concentrate on my driving, even in limit conditions. I simply focus on a long list of criteria like steering feel, front to rear balance, over-steer, etc. I induce inputs on purpose to see how the vehicle will react and how controlled and predictable it will be in all conditions. In the end, balance is everything and driver confidence is key.

Track and Field-Testing

Because the majority of our driving is on paved roads or graded dirt tracks, we needed a test facility where we could emulate both conditions in a controlled and repeatable environment. To facilitate this we rented the Yavapai County Fairgrounds in Prescott Valley, Arizona, and contracted professional racer and suspension evaluator Joe Bacal, owner of JTGrey Performance Driving. Joe, who has worked for a number of auto manufacturers (including Toyota) as a lead off-road development driver, specializes in suspension and tire testing and is considered an expert in the industry. We implemented the fairground’s parking lots to set up a slalom course, wet and dry skid pads, and a brake test area. These allowed us to assess yaw response, yaw damping, body roll, and balance. The horse track provided a perfect venue to put the JK into high-speed drifts to evaluate limit-handling properties like predictability, controllability, and linearity in loose soil. From there we hopped on a twisty mountain road to determine on-center, feedback, effort, and traceability. The final observations were on a dirt road with corrugations and embedded rock. Joe and I each drove while discussing more than two-dozen separate characteristics, then recorded our impressions.

Dyno Testing

Top: We placed red tick marks on the dash to provide a visual and quantitative reference to measure yaw response and center steering position. Left: To simulate handling characteristics during an emergency lane change and hard on-pavement cornering, each shock was run through a high-speed slalom course. Right: Testing on an equestrian racetrack provided an ideal venue for assessing limit handling characteristics on a loose surface. Putting the Jeep into a high-speed drift allowed our test drivers to evaluate yaw response, yaw damping, body roll, and balance. Overland Journal Gear 2014

A combination of fieldwork and dyno testing is how manufacturers achieve desired characteristics. For the lab aspect of our review we headed to ICON Vehicle Dynamics in Riverside, California. ICON graciously allowed us to use their Roehrig 10VS dyno for a series of evaluative tests. While cycling a shock at a specific amplitude, the dyno precisely measures three things: force, velocity, and position. Because none of the units here are position-sensitive, our focus was on the relationship between force and velocity. Force is the amount of pressure, measured in pounds, needed to move the shock at a given velocity, which is measured in distance traveled per second (in/sec). I should note the difference between amplitude and velocity: Amplitude is the distance the shock travels from an “idle” position, and velocity is the speed at which it gets there. For example, when traversing slow, technical terrain, amplitude will be high as

the suspension articulates, yet velocity, or the speed that the shock shaft travels, is low. On heavily corrugated roads, however, amplitude will be low while velocity will likely be very high. In both scenarios, the shock’s valving plays a key role in not only how the vehicle handles but also how comfortable the ride is. The dyno analyzes nitrogen gas force as well as parasitic (seal) drag and removes them from the equation; data collected is based solely on the valving. We set up a number of tests to evaluate high- and low-velocity valving, heat buildup and dissipation, and thermal performance degradation. To simulate the airflow of a moving vehicle we directed a small fan at each shock during testing. To provide a baseline we tested the OE shock as well, and this data is included. For a non-industry observer, I was surprised at how the data collected correlated to, and deviated from, the on-track impressions of our test drivers. Short of a complete meltdown, there isn’t a pass, fail, or perfect score. Data simply reflects how much damping the shock’s valving is providing at a given shaft velocity and stroke (compression or rebound).

Test 2: High velocity (1-45 in/sec)

This graph shows the force required to move each shock through a full cycle at 45 in/sec—a very healthy rate for normal overland travel. The y-axis represents force in pounds, and the x-axis represents velocity (in/ sec). Note that the force required in the compression stroke (above the x-axis) of all units is much lower than that in the rebound stroke (below the x-axis), thus most shocks are designed to manage rebound more aggressively. The stock unit (light blue) can be referred to as a baseline reference.

Left: ICON Vehicle Dynamics allowed us to use their Roehrig 10VS shock dyno for two days of lab testing.

Test 3: Generated force

This graph shows a side-by-side comparison of the force needed to cycle each shock at 45 in/sec at a 1-inch stroke. The cycle starts at zero on the “force” scale (left), which is the middle of the shock’s stroke (neutral position), and moves upwards and to the right as it transitions through the compression cycle. At the far right it returns to the neutral position and then through the rebound cycle (below the x-axis). The area within each oval represents the amount of work or damping being done. Note the significant differences between the five units tested.

Test 1: Low velocity (1-10 in/sec)

A shock’s low-velocity valving (less than 10 in/sec) will determine its characteristics on smooth paved roads and graded dirt tracks. The bleed holes manage flow at 2 to 3 in/sec. When pressure exceeds their flow capacity the disc stack is forced open. Most units, including the OE shock, displayed a slightly digressive low-velocity curve.

Test 4: Multi-cycle thermal management To evaluate short-term thermal management we needed a test that would heat each unit to a predetermined temperature, and then put it through a series of repeatable cycles. To do so we cycled each unit at a rapid rate (45 in/sec) until it reached 200°F, let it cool (100 cycles at 10 in/sec), heated it up again (100 cycles at 40 in/sec), then repeated the process. There was a 60-second break at each transition where we took temperature readings. The goal was to determine if temperatures would stabilize under a mixture of hard and easy use. We also took damping readings at the 200°F mark and compared findings with the shock’s ambient temperature performance. Force (damping) reduction across the fleet ranged from single-digit to more than 40 percent. Overland Journal Gear 2014

Dyno Testing

Damping Force: Ambient versus 200°F

ICON Vehicle Dynamics

The 2.0 V.S. showed minimal reduction in damping at 200°F, yet a small fluctuation in the ambient temperature curve (at 40- to 45-in/sec velocity) might indicate a small amount of cavitation in the compression stroke.

Bilstein

Though the 5100 ran hotter than any other shock in the test, damping loss at 200°F was the lowest in the group.

FOX

Old Man Emu

Though the FOX 2.0 IFP damping force was middle-of-the-pack, all testers found its damping patterns to be much lighter during on- and off-pavement driving.

Looking at the left side of the curve shows a slightly digressive pattern, yet at higher velocities (right side, 45-in/sec) it was fairly progressive on the rebound stroke.

Shocks from top: ICON Vehicle Dynamics 2.0 V.S. Aluminum Series, FOX 2.0 Performance Series IFP, Bilstein 5100 Series, Old Man Emu Nitro Charger Sport, and Rancho RS9000XL.

Though dyno testing produced the highest force numbers at all velocities, the RS9000XL also showed the highest damping loss at 200°F.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Rancho

Desert Testing

While stable and predictable on-road handling is crucial, and dyno testing provides empirical data on valving attributes, offpavement performance would provide the proverbial proof of the pudding. Along with the springs, shocks are tasked with the job of managing the sprung and unsprung weight, unsprung weight being everything below the springs (axles, tires and wheels, etc.). Though a Cadillac-soft shock (minimal damping) will bounce your head off the side windows with each bump (usually twice), an overly stiff unit may lead to a compressed vertebrae. Our final test canvas would be in the wide-open desert near Minden, Nevada. To add an additional third-party perspective we recruited the talents of journalist, racer, and world traveler Ned Bacon. Ned has several decades of experience competing in two- and four-wheel drive vehicles in desert and road-track environments. Our objectives were to evaluate each shock under near-race driving conditions as well as normal trail cruising, and to measure thermal buildup and how it affected performance. Our test track was a 21-mile loop that included embedded rock, rolling whoop de doos, hard corners and G-outs, and lightly corrugated dirt roads. We took turns behind the wheel, pushing the JK and the shocks hard, to a level that most sane people will never drive. After 10 miles, exterior temperatures were recorded using stick-on thermal labels and a handheld infrared thermometer. We then slowed to a more sensible overland pace for a few miles, returning to a highly spirited stride to the checkered flag. Thermal readings, which ranged from 160°F to 230°F, were again recorded. Focus points were controllability and balance under limit handling conditions, potential fade with thermal buildup, ride comfort, and axle “chatter.” Axle chatter, which is felt through the steering wheel and can negatively affect control, is most often caused by underdamped shocks or a loose suspension component. After putting the equivalent of 500 miles of mixed-use abuse on each product, Ned and I compared our thoughts and took notes during and at the end of each loop. Interestingly, we found the unit that returned dyno data quite similar to the OE shock offered better real-world performance. Another, which displayed significantly more damping on the dyno, was considered too soft, on the road and trail, by all evaluators. After nearly two weeks on the track, field, and in the lab, we present to you our findings.

Whoop de doos

Articulation

Top: Though most will never experience air between their tires and terra firma, part of our desert testing included extended sets of high-speed whoop de doos. Middle: A twisty section of sandstone near our office in Prescott, Arizona, provided a good setting to evaluate low-velocity high-amplitude performance. Bottom: To evaluate harshness and impact shock, our desert course, as well as our track and field testing included a corrugated dirt track with areas of loose and embedded rock.

Corrugated dirt road

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Bilstein

5100 Series

$120

Pros

• Well balanced • Predictable handling • Limited axle chatter

Cons

• Runs hot under spirited driving • Light fade with thermal buildup

hen German entrepreneur August Bilstein started his small window fitting company in 1873, few would have predicted that it would someday be a major influence in the automotive world. It makes sense; Benz wouldn’t invent the Patent-Motorwagen for another 13 years. Bilstein didn’t enter the shock absorber market until 1954. But when it did, with a gas-pressurized monotube design, it was revolutionary. The 5100 Series follows the methodology of meticulous German engineering. It is a monotube design and construction is seamless formed steel with a multi-layer zinc finish. Mounts are welded steel with polyurethane bushings, and the 14-mm shaft is hardened chrome-plated steel. In dyno testing the 5100 returned figures very close to the OE unit (maximum force at 45 in/sec at room temperature was a low 436 pounds). This surprised us, as all evaluators felt the 5100 had a much more solid feel on the road and track. Interestingly, while most units were in the double-digit range in our high-temp (200°F) performance degradation test, the Bilstein lost just 5.9 and 7.4 percent (front/rear) from its ambient temperature results. As with the other monotubes, the 5100 was quick to heat up in every test, but during our desert loop they maxed out the thermal indicators (231°F). It is unclear at what temperature seals would fail (Bilstein stated that shocks should withstand temperatures of 300°F) and there was no evidence of leaks, but we did feel a bit of shock fade towards the end of the desert testing. As for nitrogen gas force and seal drag, the 5100 fell in the middle of the pack. The 5100 did well in our road, track, and desert tests. Steering responsiveness (on-center and feedback) was positive and abrupt inputs to steering provided predictable results (yaw response, yaw damping, and fore/aft balance). During high-speed desert running, axle chatter was limited and controllability was good, though we did experience slight heave-out when the shocks heated up. The Bilstein 5100 comes with dust boots to protect the shaft, a lifetime warranty, and is available for most four-wheel drive applications. Lifetime warranty. Made in USA. bilsteinus.com, 858-386-5900

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Clockwise from top: Construction is seamless formed steel with a multi-layer zinc finish. Mounts are welded steel hoops with polyurethane bushings. A “free” or floating piston separates the 5100’s proprietary blend of oil. FKM seals are a multi-lip design.

Old Man Emu

Nitro Charger Sport

$113

Pros

• Well balanced • Good all-around damping • Limited thermal management • Cost

Cons

• Slight harshness in light terrain • Restricted mounting positions

ld Man Emu (OME) is an ARB brand, and we expected a solidly built and competitive product. Designed for the demands of the endless corrugated roads of Australia’s Outback, the Nitro Charger Sport, one of two twin-tube shocks in the test, hails from its own world. Rather than a rubber dust boot to protect the shaft, the OME implements rigid steel and plastic sleeves. This feature alone could save your next overland trek, as micro divots on the shaft can damage seals and render the shock permanently disabled. Rod ends, or mounts, are welded steel with polyurethane bushings, and the shaft is hardened chrome-plated steel. The company states that this is an “off-road touring” shock, and our experience with OME products is that they are designed for fully loaded vehicles. They do offer several levels of valving, lighter to stiffer. On the dyno, the Nitro Charger Sport had the second highest figures with regard to force at a given velocity, second only to the Rancho. However, the numbers ramped up at the upper end of the scale (45 in/sec), indicating progressive valving at higher velocities (abrupt impacts). Seal drag, at 15 pounds, was second lowest behind the ICON. Force degradation at 200°F fell in the middle of the pack, and as with the Rancho, the other twin-tube shock, thermal buildup at all tested intervals was low. During our track and fieldwork the Nitro Charger Sport got high marks in almost all categories: yaw response, balance, and predictability. However, we did find it to be a little harsh during the slow cruising sections of the 21-mile desert loop. For a fully laden vehicle this would probably be fine, but our JK was stock and empty. There was limited heave-out while exiting G-out conditions and we didn’t feel any axle chatter feedback through the steering wheel. 3-year/60,000-kilometer warranty (37,000 miles). Made in Australia. arbusa.com, 866-293-9083

Clockwise from top: The Nitro Charger Sport implements steel and hard plastic sleeves to protect the shaft from rock damage. Inner and outer tubes are steel, as are the welded mounting points. Old Man Emu’s combination of spring steel discs/shims and piston design rendered the Nitro Charger the second most aggressive shock in the test.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

FOX

2.0 Performance Series IFP

$130

Pros

• Quality construction • Limited thermal degradation • Good ride in light terrain

Cons

• Excessive body roll • Slow response to steering input • Axle chatter at high speed in rough terrain

n 1974, Bob Fox began penciling the design of a new innovative shock for a Maico dirt bike, the FOX AirShox. Machining was done in a friend’s garage, and when Fox introduced the AirShox to the world of motocross it was an instant hit. Since that time the company has grown to be an international powerhouse in the world of automotive, moto, and mountain bike sports. The 2.0 Performance Series IFP is aesthetically very similar to the ICON unit: a beautiful CNC milled 6061-T6 aluminum body with an integrated end mount. The .625-inch shaft is hard chrome-treated alloy steel; the rod end is also 6061-T6 billet aluminum and utilizes polyurethane bushings. The monotube design incorporates a sintered and heat-treated steel piston, spring steel disc stack, and nitrile main, wiper, and scraper seals. This shock also uses nitrogen gas to maintain internal pressure, and oil is FOX’s proprietary JM92 Advanced Suspension Fluid (rated for -70 to 400°F). On the dyno the 2.0 demonstrated mid-field figures for force at given velocities, landing between the ICON and Bilstein. It heated up quickly, as did the other monotubes, and had limited performance loss in the high temperature test. Seal drag, at 31 pounds, was the highest in the group. Interestingly, our track and field results defied the findings we had collected in the lab. The FOX unit proved to have much softer valving than the others, allowing for more body roll in hard cornering and abrupt lane changes. Feedback was not noted in the steering wheel until three or four ticks from center, and yaw response was slower than the others. Joe and I both felt it was simply a much softer ride—closer to the stock units. During our hard-driving desert loop it displayed similar characteristics. At our near-race pace, Ned and I both experienced axle chatter feedback in the steering wheel, and heave-out when exiting whoop de doos; the pace needed to be reduced. On this same note, being a softer ride, it absorbed small bumps better when meandering along at a sane person’s pace. I’d say it provided the most comfortable ride at slow speeds on light terrain. 1-year warranty. Made in USA. ridefox.com, 619-768-1800

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Clockwise from top: CNC milled from 6061-T6 aluminum, FOX’s 2.0 Performance Series IFP is flat-out sexy. Polyurethane bushings ride in an integrated aluminum mount. The FOX 2.0 IFP incorporates a .625-inch hardened chrome heattreated shaft, Nitrile seals, and proprietary FM92 Advanced Suspension Fluid rated to 400°F.

ICON Vehicle Dynamics

2.0 V.S. Aluminum Series $168

Pros

• Excellent in agressive desert driving • Good yaw response and damping • Minimal axle chatter

Cons

• Slightly harsh in light terrain • Cost

tepping into the shock and suspension arena in 2008, California-based ICON Vehicle Dynamics is the new kid on the block. However, they didn’t waste any time in introducing a full line of racing and consumer-oriented products. Crafted from 6063-T831 anodized aluminum and sporting an integrated mounting hoop, ICON’s 2.0 V.S. Aluminum inspires confidence. The rod end, which is attached to a .625-inch nitro steel shaft, is machined from 6061 aluminum and houses polyurethane bushings. As with the other monotube units, there’s a fixed piston and shim stack affixed to the internal end of the shaft, and a floating piston separates its oil from nitrogen gas. There is a small fitting at the end to allow the addition of nitrogen if additional gas pressure is needed, and like the FOX and Bilstein, it can be rebuilt. In the lab the 2.0 V.S. displayed middle-of-the-pack results in the force versus velocity analysis. Performance degradation at 200°F (7.5 to 10 percent) was reasonable, and seal drag (7.2 pounds) was lowest in the group. There was a slight undulation in the high-velocity curve on the compression stroke, which could indicate a small amount of cavitation. However, we didn’t experience any shock fade at full-temperature during the desert test. On the track and road testing, Joe and I found this shock to be fairly well balanced. It provided good yaw control and damping, settling the JK back to a neutral attitude quickly after an abrupt lane change. Ride comfort is not bad, but this is a stiffer shock, and light bumps in the road (high-frequency vibrations) are more noticeable—they are similar to the Bilstein and Old Man Emu in this respect. Where this shock shined was during aggressive driving in the desert loop. Ned and I both commented that no matter how hard you pushed them, they simply took it and asked for more. Heave-out after hard depressions as well as axle chatter felt through the steering wheel was minimal. In hard G-out turns the axles planted firmly, tires gained traction, and the JK pushed on with confidence. 90-day warranty. Made in USA. iconvehicledynamics.com, 951-689-4266

Clockwise from top: ICON’s 2.0 V.S. is CNC milled from 6063-T831 aluminum, has an integrated mount, billet rod end, and polyurethane bushings. This is the only shock in the test with a fitting that allows nitrogen gas pressure to be adjusted, if needed, by the owner. The ICON 2.0 uses a proprietary oil, triple-stage Viton, and Teflon lined shaft seals.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Rancho

RS9000XL

$165

Pros

• Excellent yaw response and damping • Limited body roll and heave-out • Limited thermal buildup • Adjustable

Cons

• Cost • Reduction in force/damping at high temperature • Restricted installation positions

his leads us to the Rancho RS9000XL. Rancho is the undisputed granddaddy of the four-wheel drive shock and suspension world. It began in 1955 in Long Beach, California, as Rancho Jeep Supply and rode the wave of surplus military Jeeps to become a powerhouse in the industry. The company launched its first adjustable shock, the five-position RS9000, in 1990 and a number of iterations have resulted in the RS9000XL. This was the only adjustable shock in the review, and one of two twin-tube units. From the outside it looks like any other monotube or twin-tube shock…with the exception of a small dial at the base. The nine-position dial allows the driver to select between a “very firm” and “very soft” ride. This is accomplished by a spring-loaded check valve, located in the base valve, which restricts or allows the flow of oil to the outer tube. The 18-mm shaft is nitro-carburized steel, rod ends are welded steel, and bushings are polyurethane. To achieve middle-of-the-range performance we set the adjustment dial to “five” for all comparative tests. The 9000XL returned the highest resistive force on the dyno, both on compression and rebound. Gas force was the lowest in the group, yet parasitic seal drag was near the highest. When pushed to 200°F on the dyno, it suffered the greatest low- and high-velocity loss of force (44.5 and 17.7 percent respectively). However, with 951 pounds force at ambient temperature, it had the most to work with and was still a mark above the rest of the field. The other consideration was that thermal buildup was slow and its maximum temperature in our desert test was a scant 136°F, the lowest in the group. From the moment Joe and I pulled out of the shop we knew the Rancho was going to provide a good ride. In nearly every category, from yaw response and damping, to body roll, traceability, and feedback, it received maximum points on our internal scoreboard. Cornering was flat like a sports car, not a normal characteristic for a lifted JK. To avoid any preconceptions, I didn’t discuss any of our track-and-field impressions with Ned prior to letting him run the Rancho in the desert loop. When he developed his final conclusions, we were all on the same page. In G-outs and hard cornering, the vehicle simply hunkered down and moved on. There was almost none of the normal steering wheel feedback you get from a live axle (chatter) and limited body roll. To assess the high and low settings we did roll the adjustment dial both directions. Position 1 was too soft, appropriate for slow rock crawling but not desert running. Position 9 was quite stiff, appropriate for a heavily loaded rig. In short I can say that Joe, Ned, and I were impressed, and shall I say, surprised. Limited lifetime warranty. Made in USA. gorancho.com, 734-384-7804 Overland Journal Gear 2014

Clockwise from top: The Rancho RS9000XL features steel tubing, a 18-mm Nitro-carburized steel shaft, welded steel mounting points, and a fixed plastic dust shield. The nine-way adjustable valve allows for ride settings from very soft to very firm. The 9000XL features a sintered iron piston and graphite-filled Fluon seal for increased longevity.

Conclusions

s I mentioned at the beginning, choosing which shock fits our personal tastes can be a Goldilocks affair. In other words, much of it comes down to what type of ride characteristics you are looking for. One thing we all came away with was a level of amazement at the differences between these five products, each with individual characteristics, pros, and cons. The FOX 2.0 Performance Series IFP is well constructed, appealing to the eye, and returned respectable numbers on the dyno. Yet we were all surprised with their tame nature on the road and track and soft ride. These shocks would work well for someone who wanted to lift their vehicle without the normally associated rigidity, but were not ideal for running hard across the desert; this negative result would be even more pronounced with a fully loaded vehicle. Designed for the rigors of the Outback, the Old Man Emu Nitro Charger Sport proved to be a good all-around shock. They demonstrated polite street manners and were very competent off-pavement. They are built for heavy-duty use and were a little stiff on the bumpy but slow terrain. I know dozens of people who run OME suspension systems and have yet to hear a negative comment. The Nitro Charger is ideal for a loaded vehicle where performance benefits from the firmer valving. With solid performance and the lowest MSRP in the batch, the Nitro Charger Sport goes home with our Value award. The Bilstein 5100 provided strong returns. Trail and street manners were solid, and between our three testers we found little to complain about. Though the Bilsteins ran hot enough to boil water (or our hands when checking temperature), fade, while detectable, was limited. Quality of construction is good, they are rebuildable, and their lifetime warranty is a measure of Bilstein’s confidence in the product. Since I often suffer from “happy foot” (or brain fade) and like to open up the throttle at times, the ICON was a good match for me. This is a firm shock, and though I felt they provided excellent yaw response and damping, you do feel the high-frequency vibrations more than with some of the others. Having said this, no matter how hard we pushed them in the desert they simply dove in with purpose, absorbing everything with ease. Axle chatter was nonexistent, and they instilled the confidence that I could put the vehicle exactly where I wanted. And this brings us to the Rancho RS900XL. While many may dismiss Rancho as a vanilla brand, all testers were impressed with this shock. Yaw control and damping, both on- and off-pavement were excellent, and body roll was limited and balanced. On our desert loop, the vehicle’s predictability instilled confidence and we found ourselves traveling at higher speeds without feeling like we were going to damage the vehicle. Though they had the highest loss of damping in the 200°F lab test, in the field they never surpassed 136°F, which rendered this a non-issue. The argument for the RS9000XL is even greater when considering the adjustability, allowing the driver to firm the valving with a greater load, or back it off when relegated to the daily commute. With solid performance and nine-position adjustability, the latitude of Rancho’s RS9000XL is quite impressive. Thus, it goes home with our Editor’s Choice award.

Joe Bacal’s Take All of the manufacturers here are capable of having products on top. What I look for is if the engineers within each company have spent the time to tune their shocks for a particular application, in this case the 2013 Jeep Rubicon. For what it is worth, a polished can or one painted pink really does not matter; it is how the vehicle performs. The data clearly shows the Rancho shocks on top. Balance and handling are the key factors, and then we focus on ride comfort. The Rancho outperformed and there was no doubt that this was the best-tuned shock for this vehicle. ICON, OME and Bilstein were a close second, all having positive areas but not as well rounded overall. Finally, though Fox shocks are generally the premier desert racing components, the tuning they picked for this application was way off the mark. At the end of the day it all comes down to driver preference, but balance and stability is a major factor.

Ned Bacon’s Take I was excited when Chris asked me to help with the seat-of-thepants portion of this test. Before he showed up at my place I figured FOX, my brand of choice these days (I own two off-road vehicles and a mountain bike equipped with their products) would be the hands down winner. Then I saw the contenders and realized the price point was much lower than I am familiar with. I ran Rancho 9000s for years before getting fancy and moving “up-market.” I secretly doubted my old standbys would stack up to the “F” brand. But what of the others? I’ve owned and tested vehicles with Old Man Emu dampers, but they all also had the brand’s matched suspension upgrades—always a great combination. I currently own a diesel truck with Bilsteins and feel the vehicle is under shocked. I had no prior experience with Icon so they were the wild card. I think Chris’ and my observations pretty much mirrored each other as he presents them in this article. When the dust settled my picks in order were Rancho, Bilstein, Icon, Old Man Emu, and Fox. I guess price point makes a huge difference. I was also amazed at the difference in driving dynamics each brand brought to the Jeep. There was a very obvious difference to the feel of the vehicle with each installed.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Shock Comparison Manufacturer

Bilstein

Old Man Emu

FOX

ICON Vehicle Dynamics

Rancho

Model

5100 Series

Nitro Charger Sport

2.0 Performance Series IFP

2.0 V.S. Aluminum Series

Rancho RS9000XL

MSRP

$120

$113

$130

$168

$165

Country of origin

USA

Australia

USA

Warranty

Lifetime

3-year, 60,000 km

1-year

90-day

Limited lifetime

Design

Monotube

Twin-tube

Monotube

Twin-tube

Tube diameter (in/mm)

2.0/51

2.14/54.4

2.2/56

2.0/51

2.2/56

Tube construction

Seamless formed steel, 3-stage zinc exterior

Steel, painted

6061-T6 aluminum

6063-T831 anodized aluminum

Steel, painted

Rebuildable

Yes

Shaft diameter (in/mm)

0.55/14

0.71/18

0.625/15.875

0.71/18

Shaft construction

Hardened chromeplated steel

Hardened chrome, heat treated alloy steel

Nitro steel

Nitro-carburized steel

Rod ends

Steel

Welded steel

6061-T6 aluminum billet

6061-T6 aluminum

Welded steel

Adjustable

Yes, 9-position

Valving

Fixed piston, disc stack

Fixed piston, disc stack, base valve

Fixed piston, disc stack

Fixed piston, disc stack, base valve

Bushings

Polyurethane

Seals

Multi-lip FKM

Triple-lip check valve design

Nitrile main seal, wiper seal, scraper seal

Triple-stage Viton, Teflon lined shaft bearing

Low-friction, self-lubricating

Gas

Nitrogen

Oil

Proprietary

Fox JM92 Advanced Suspension Fluid

Proprietary

Dyno and Desert Course Performance Data

Dynamic gas force (ambient/200°F (lb))

43.5/78

23.5/29.4

75/108

47/73

20.25/32.5

Seal Drag (ambient (lb))

22.7

7.2

Max low-velocity compression force, 10 in/ sec (ambient/200°F (lb), percentage loss)

133/128/-3.8

100/94/-6

68/75/+10

101/91/-10

197/162/-17.8

Max low-velocity rebound force, 10 in/sec (ambient/200°F (lb), percentage change)

173/168/-2.9

268/204/-23.9

206/189/-8.3

186/174/-7.5

380/289-/-24

Max high-velocity compression force, 45 in/ sec (ambient/200°F (lb), percentage change)

396/373/-5.9

269/244/-10

463/410/-11.5

376/330/-13.3

451/255/-44.5

Max high-velocity rebound force, 45 in/sec (ambient/200°F (lb), percentage change)

436/404/-7.4

884/764/-13.6

710/670/-5.7

696/633/-10.1

951/783/-17.7

Time to reach 200°F at 45 in/sec velocity

2:40

4:05

2:45

2:20

3:30

Multi-cycle test final temp (°F)

166

158

168

155

154

Desert course max temperature: front/rear (°F)

160/231

142/160

190/199

186/199

136/134

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Long-term Triumph Tiger 800XC Our Executive Creative Officer outlines his idea of the perfect dual-sport: light, fast, and with a penchant for dirt. By Sinuhe Xavier

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Specifications

2012 Triumph Tiger 800XC • Length: 87.1 in (2,215 mm) • Seat height: 33.2 in (845 mm) • Wheelbase: 60.8 in (1,545 mm) • Fuel capacity: 5 gal (19 l) • Weight (wet): 473 lb (215 kg) • Engine: liquid-cooled, 12 valve, DOHC, inline 3-cylinder • Displacement: 799 cc • Output: 94 hp, 58 lb-ft torque • Economy: 41 mpg city/63 mpg highway • Fuel system: multipoint sequential electronic fuel injection • Exhaust: stainless steel 3-into-1 with a stainless steel silencer • Final drive: O-ring chain • Clutch: wet, multi-plate • Gearbox: 6-speed • Frame: tubular steel trellis • Swingarm: twin-sided cast aluminum alloy • Front wheel: 21-inch, 36-spoke, aluminum • Rear wheel: 17-inch, 32-spoke, aluminum • Front suspension: Showa 45 mm upside-down forks, 220 mm travel • Rear suspension: Showa remote reservoir monoshock, 215 mm travel • Front brake: twin 308 mm floating discs, Nissin 2-piston floating caliper, ABS • Rear brake: single 255 disc, Nissin floating caliper, ABS

Overland Journal Gear 2014

With a 21-inch Excel front wheel and 17-inch rear, both of which are spoked, it instantly had a more “moto” feel than most other ADV bikes I’ve ridden, especially when turning off the pavement.

Opposite, clockwise from top left: Compared to other bikes in its class, the Triumph’s controls are simple, if not a little unsophisticated. The lighting system, which falls short of that on other bikes in the class, will be getting some assistance from a pair of aftermarket driving lights. With engine protection lacking in stock from, an appropriate crash bar will be fitted. The LCD multi-function instrument cluster includes standard functions plus an indicator for the switchable ABS.

hen looking for the new project bike for Overland Journal there were a lot of considerations to, well, consider. Weighing in at 165 pounds and standing only 5 feet 9 inches tall, I’m a smaller guy, and I’d been raised on motocross bikes since hopping on my first CR 50 back in 1983. I must admit, with all the cars and other variables, pavement riding has always been a bit intimidating to me. After my move from Colorado to California I found myself yearning to ride but not going because of the distance to dirt. An enduro soon landed in my life and I began to understand the allure of the twisties and the open road. After riding a BMW 1200GS I was hooked on the ADV segment, but the 1200 felt too big for me for dirt riding. So the hunt began. With BMW and KTM being the reigning kings of the category, it only made sense (to me anyway) to gravitate towards the dark horse, a Triumph…I do drive a Land Rover after all. In 2010, the British brand made waves when it introduced the 800XC, which implemented an inline triple for a power plant; a polarizing subject in many ADV circles. My hunt brought me to Prescott, Arizona, where I found a used 2012 Tiger with 1,500 miles and a price tag of $9,900. After a quick test ride, I was smitten and had a new bike. My “touring” style could be described as light and fast; even when traveling out of my Land Rover I sleep under the stars and cook on a Jetboil. Unlike the Land Rover, which I use more as a backpack to get me farther into the backcountry to do the things I enjoy, such as climbing, canyoneering, mountain biking, etc., motorcycling is about the activity of riding, and keeping the 800XC as light and nimble as possible is priority one. I would be kidding myself if I ever thought it would handle like my KTM LC4 625 but I could never carry more than a night’s worth of gear on that pumpkin. If I wanted the classic ADV 50/50 compromise I would have chosen a different bike. I needed a bike that was more of a 70/30, dirt/pavement mix, and I feel I’ve found that platform with the Triumph. Straight out of the box with 95 hp and 98 lb-ft of torque, the Triumph comes well prepared for its intended use. With a 21-inch Excel front wheel and 17-inch rear, both of which are spoked, it instantly had a more “moto” feel than most other ADV bikes I’ve ridden, especially when turning off the pavement. Adjusting the handlebars to a more upright position, which allowed me to stand in a comfortable riding stance, was a simple task. With EPA estimates of 41 mpg city and 63 mpg highway (as dubious as those are), the 5-gallon tank should allow for a greater range over other bikes in its class: close to 200 miles on the low side, and that’s pretty damn good. The braking is a switchable ABS system that, after a little getting used to, works really well and allows one to steer with the back tire as you would on smaller-bore enduros. The inline triple, which provides smooth torque throughout the power band, makes it a joy to ride off-pavement. As I mentioned, this configuration can be a polarizing subject among riders of all motorcycles; you either love it or you don’t. I happen to love it. In stock form the 800XC is woefully lacking for any real ADV touring. Considering that the engine hangs off of a trellis frame, it lacks substantial protection for any trail work more demanding than a gravel road. The stock tires are fine for cruising down that same hard-packed track, but when the road gets loose, so does the bike. Triumph lauds the oversize luggage rack, but you’ll never be able to carry more than a quick overnight’s worth of gear. The lighting system is also pretty bleak when compared to what’s available on other bikes in its class. Modifications to the Tiger will have to be a balancing act. It would be easy to bolt on every accessory available, but I want to keep the weight manageable (so that I can still pick it up) and more importantly, ensure that it’s still fun to ride. If the 800XC is to live up to its full potential, and survive a 2,400-mile solo trip of mostly off-pavement riding in the arid Southwest of North America, each of these shortcomings will need to be addressed. In upcoming issues I’ll be tackling these factors and selecting products that will transform the Triumph Tiger 800XC into a nimble and reliable overlander.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Life in the Slow and Chaotic Lane We wander the old-world markets of Delhi, dodge sacred cattle, and absorb the charm of India on the slow road to Mumbai...in a Range Rover Hybrid. By: Chris Collard

Overland Journal Gear 2014

slammed on the brakes and veered left as a camel cart entered my path, its “driver” oblivious to the onslaught of oncoming traffic. The car to my left, just inches off the fender, honked, accelerated, and slipped around the dromedary. The camel jockey never flinched, slipping into the void and continuing on at a camel’s pace. I glanced over to my passenger, Peter Richings, to check for white knuckles, pallid skin, or signs of cardiac arrest. Wideeyed and with a death grip on the overhead handle, he just stared out the windscreen; apparently the thought of dying on an Indian roadway wasn’t on his short list of things to do this day. The camel pilot on the other hand seemed indifferent—obviously of the Hindu faith. You see, Hindus believe in reincarnation. Why fear death when you can come back as a dog or goat or even a sacred cow? A month earlier I’d been offered the opportunity to drive one of three prototype diesel-electric Range Rovers (the Vogue) on the final leg of The Silk Trail Expedition, a 16,000-kilometer trek from Solihull, England, to Mumbai, India. I was well aware of the vehicle’s four-wheel drive capabilities, but I’d not spent much time in hybrids and this was an offer I could not pass up. I’d also never been to India. Peter is Director Engineering Technical Services for Land Rover, and the hybrid motor under the bonnet of our Range Rover was his baby. During the past three years he and his team of 260 engineers de-

61 veloped the EV components, and with emissions regulators breathing down auto manufacturers’ intake manifolds, Land Rover has dedicated in excess of 30 million USD to see the project to fruition. With mounting skepticism surrounding the use of the terms hybrid and four-wheel drive in the same sentence, and considering the company’s heritage, they needed to present the new platform in a manner befitting Land Rover—a carefully manicured course in England was out of the question. This was a bold move, and in the previous 45 days the team had crossed Europe, Russia, the Stans, and the Himalayas. I joined them in New Delhi; the next 1,000 miles on India’s back roads would provide me with a firm feel for the company’s newest offering. The route passed through Agra, home of the Taj Mahal and crenelated walls of Red Fort, along the banks of the Yamuna River, and included a roadside festival for Lakshmi, the goddess of luck and prosperity. Considering the aforementioned flirt with dromedary disaster, I hoped that Lakshmi would be with us. Departing New Delhi under the shadow of India Gate, a 140-foot archway memorial dedicated to the 72,000 Indians who perished in WWI. Opposite: A mass of humanity in motion sweeps through Old Delhi under an eclectic tangle of electrical wiring. Opening spread: Navigating through trucks, handcarts, and sacred cows in the village of Fatehpur Sikri. Overland Journal Gear 2014

Rickshaws, Minarets, and Spice

A few days earlier I’d landed in New Delhi and had a free day before hitting the road. Having heard and read about the storied markets of the old city, Old Delhi, I hired a pedal-rickshaw and headed into a world unknown to many Westerners. A walled complex and once the capital of the Mughal Empire, Shahjahanabad (as it was originally named) was constructed in 1639. Its streets, which were once lined with the elaborate mansions of nobles, have since succumbed to centuries of neglect. Plaster and paint peel away from ornate facades, and rusting balustrades lead to weathered and stained courtyards lined with sooty satellite dishes. Leaving the rickshaw outside the fray of congestion I ducked off the main street and into a narrow passageway just wide enough for a handcart. I took the second right, then a left and another right, and realized I had entered a labyrinth. Merchants and artisans, hidden away in

Pulling up a stool at a local café I lunched on a plate of authentic Mughal cuisine and took in a visual smorgasbord of humanity. small alcoves, plied their trades while laborers burdened with massive crates and burlap sacks hurried past. I asked a shopkeeper for directions to Khari Baoli, the street in Old Delhi which is reputed to be the world’s grandest spice market. He politely said, “My friend, you need not Khari Baoli, I have all spices here…see. What would you like? Cumin, capers, capsicum? I have all.” I relieved him of a small bag of nuts and he said with a smile and the wave of a finger, “Go left there, follow until it stops, then go to the right.” The aromas of sage, saffron, and thyme spilling into the streets and permeating my nostrils confirmed I was near. Baskets, brimming with a plethora of colors and fragrances greeted me as I slowly made my way through the chaos of Khari Baoli. I moved on to the Kinari Bazaar, where gold-colored tin is passed off as “solid gold,” and then to the red stone walls of Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. The foundation stones of Jama Masjid, which will accommodate 25,000 worshipers, were set in 1650 and the last of two 120-foot minarets was completed just 6 years later; an incredible feat for the era. I sat near the outer gate during midday prayer and observed women praying on an upper veranda. When I queried why only women were on the veranda I was told that they were not allowed inside. Tradition runs deep here. With a population of 22 million, Delhi is the second most populated city on the planet, and it seemed at least half were trying to enter or exit the old city. Pulling up a stool at a local café I lunched on plate of authentic Mughal cuisine and took in a visual smorgasbord of humanity. After taking down the last sip of tea, I joined the flow of bicycles, handcarts, and laborers and made my way back to the city walls. In the morning I’d be navigating my way south with the area’s other 11 million inhabitants.

Top to bottom: Old Delhi-A pedal-rickshaw is the easiest way to get around the chaotic traffic. The spice markets of Khari Baoli Street are said to be the largest in the world. Any corner café is a good place to have lunch and take in the frenzied pace of life in the old city. The labyrinth of narrow and dimly lit passageways are the arteries of commerce. Opposite: Women, who are not allowed inside, pray on a veranda outside the Jama Masjid Mosque. Overland Journal Gear 2014

Overland Journal Gear 2014

I asked Akkin what would happen if one were to hit and kill a cow. With a downturned brow and a grief-stricken grimace he said, “Everyone around would probably beat you very badly with sticks.” I put a mental earmark on my driving in India checklist: do not hit a cow.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Sacred is the Cow

Cattle have long been a symbol of wealth, strength, and a full earthly life. In the past and present, the cow has been relied upon for dairy products like cheese and milk, as a beast of burden to till fields, and its dung utilized as fertilizer and heating and cooking fuel. It is no wonder that it has long been revered by the Hindu; in some states the slaughter of cattle is illegal and the meat considered taboo. I queried Akkin, our hired gun, about the Hindu beliefs regarding the sacred nature of the cow. He informed me that there are 3,500 million gods that live in a cow. I asked if they all had names, if they could be identified. Akkin said, “Many have names but many do not.” With so many of these sacred deities precariously roaming the roads and highways, I asked what would happen if one were to hit and kill a cow. With a downturned brow and a grief-stricken grimace he said, “I’ve never seen a cow hit by a car, but it would be very bad.” I queried further, “How bad? Would you receive a ticket or be put in jail?” “Everyone around would probably beat you very badly with sticks,” he responded. I put a mental earmark on my driving in India checklist. Short of being crushed by a wayward camel, do not hit a cow. The Hindu deem that not only the life of a cow, but all life is precious. Because they believe that all living things are reincarnated, to be a Hindu is to also be a vegetarian. After spending time in the country and delving into the intricacies of Indian culture and Hindu belief, one begins to understand the country and its people—including how a billion Hindu can manage to worm their way through the same intersection, weaving and honking at breakneck pace, without so much as a raised hand and extended middle digit. After our nail-biting session through the streets of Delhi a member of our group said, “They are so aggressive on the road.” I disagreed. People in Los Angeles and London and Lima drive aggressively…the Hindu are assertive. I could almost hear the thoughts of other drivers as I maneuvered in and around rickshaws and camel carts and trucks and bicycles just inches away from my fenders. Beep-beep…“Excuse me,” beep…“pardon me,” beep-beep…“I’m coming through,” beepbeep-beep. Painted on the back of almost every truck was the request, “Horn Please.” Generally, you are responsible for avoiding everything in front of you, and not responsible for anything behind—few vehicles have rearview mirrors. Thus the heavy use of the horn. Receiving a beep-beep is a simple message that someone is behind you and most likely going to pass (or try to occupy the same space in the near future). Everyone will get to where they are going at the fastest pace possible, but they aren’t going to push anyone off the road to get there. I think there is a lesson here we could all benefit from.

Rules of the Road 1. Forget everything you thought you knew about traffic congestion. 2. Don’t stop for pedestrians; like a kid who is well versed at the video game “Frogger,” they know how to get across the road. 3. Everyone likes it when you honk; they even request it. 4. Two inches of clearance is plenty of room. 5. White lane lines are merely a suggestion. 6. Driving on the correct side of the road is also a suggestion. 7. Middle-of-the-road truck repairs are commonplace. 8. Bicyclists entering the road don’t yield (they are in front of you). 9. Do not tailgate a camel cart (can get messy). 10. Whatever you do, don’t hit a cow. 11. With the exception of cows, Darwinism applies. 12. Re-read rule number 10.

Agra and the Taj Mahal

When I was picked up from the airport I thought my taxi driver (who was meandering down the middle of the road, paying no attention to white lines, yellow lines, or stop signs) was intoxicated. I had a lot to learn about driving in India. Though the route to Agra is only a few hundred kilometers, getting there is an all-day event. The general rules of the road, at least as we know them, are apparently detained in customs when you cross the border. While we tend to stay on the proper side of the road (left or right depending on what country you are from) and flow with traffic, this rule does not apply in India. On a regular basis a vehicle in front of me would dodge left or right and the headlights of a truck or scooter or rickshaw would appear. It wasn’t simply stopped in the road (it is commonplace for repairs to be ex-

Clockwise from top: Middle school girls on their way home. Because incomes are very low and cars are very expensive, getting around is a matter of hitching a ride with any willing trucker. Workers transfer the load of a disabled vehicle. Opposite: Cattle, which the Hindu deem sacred, fear little and wander freely down the road. Overland Journal Gear 2014

Overland Journal Gear 2014

ecuted precisely where a vehicle ceased forward progress), but coming head-on. It was a little unnerving at first, but when in Rome…tap your horn, zip around the suicidal offender (the promise of reincarnation again) and move on. Resting on the banks of the Yamuna River (the largest tributary of the famous Ganges River), the Taj Mahal is widely revered as the crown jewel of Muslim art. Deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983, its Mughal architecture is an amalgamation of Islamic, Persian, Ottoman Turkish, and Indian influence. From nearly any elevated point in the city of Agra you can glimpse its white domed marble mausoleum above the landscape. In Arabic the name Taj Mahal translates to Crown of Palaces, and a palace it is. It was constructed under the direction of Mughal Emperor Shaw Jahan in the 17th century in honor of his third wife, and is testament to thousands of artisans and craftsmen who fashioned its millions of tons of marble. Walking its grounds and halls is truly inspiring; every stone is cut with laser precision, every structure positioned with geometric perfection. We were on the banks of the river before dawn in hopes of catching the sunrise over the Taj Mahal. If we were in the laundry or fishing business we would have been late for work. Downriver, half of Agra’s population was on the shoreline washing clothes, repairing fishing nets, and bathing. It was this morning when I had an epiphany—the average Indian has the stomach of a goat. Intertwined amongst India’s architecture and culture and history, millions of its citizens live in some of the worst conditions I’ve ever witnessed. Why, because the other half of Agra’s citizens were relieving themselves (yes, urinating and defecating) just upriver. Looking down at our feet we quickly realized where the smell of raw sewage was coming from. In the predawn light we had thought it was just slippery mud, but, uh, we weren’t so lucky. The crazy thing is that the headwaters of the Yamuna are high in the Himalayas and pass through a dozen major cities before it gets to Agra, all of which probably partake in these same practices. India’s per capita income is less than three percent of that of the U.S.; the majority of its population simply does not have the luxury of modern amenities. All muck aside, Agra’s landmarks are nothing short of inspiring. Though the first inhabitants settled here a thousand years before the birth of Christianity, it didn’t find its stride until the 16th century when Sultan Sikandar Lodi founded the city and declared it the capital. When The riverside laundromat in Agra. Morning sun washes over the Taj Mahal on the banks of the Yamuna River. Overland Journal Gear 2014

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Shaw Jahan moved the capital to Delhi, about the time he built the Taj Mahal, he also built Red Fort. Constructed of crimson sandstone, an afternoon walk through this complex is not to be missed.

Fortresses, Festivals, and Mistresses

There was a marked increase in wealth and industry as we moved south towards Mumbai. The narrow tracks through small villages and farmlands yield to a four-lane highway, larger towns, and industrial sites. Having said this, if you take a left or right off the roadway, or simply keep your eyes open, you’ll find some of the region’s other jewels. Along the route we came upon a long procession of decorated wagons and carts, and women dressed in brilliantly colored dresses dancing down the road. Akkin said it was part of the 10-day festival of Navratri to honor the goddess Lakshmi. We pulled ahead and stopped, hoping they would pass by. We were rewarded with hundreds of women and children laughing and dancing and singing. I stepped into the flow to be swept along in a current of good fortune. I eddied out near the vehicles and let Lakshmi resume command. Near Jaipur we turned the Range Rovers west through the mountains towards Amber Fort. In a small village near the fortified walls I slipped away from the group and down a side street lined with fruit and vegetable vendors, craftsman selling silver jewelry, and Persian rug shops. Though many peddled their wares atop used milk crates on small patches of asphalt, everything was clean and tidy. I knelt down to talk to several women selling vegetables and was greeted with big smiles and ivory-white teeth. I don’t think they received many foreign guests on that street. They didn’t speak a word of English nor do I speak any Hindi, but the message of open acceptance was clear and mutual. Further down the street I made the mistake of stopping to inspect an array of jewelry laid out on a table covered with white linen. The proprietor appeared from behind a Persian rug draped over a makeshift façade. “Ah, my friend,” he said with a wide and inviting smile. “This is pure silver, maybe you need earrings or necklace for your wife?” I politely declined. “Then maybe for your daughter…maybe for your girlfriend or your mistress?” Another big smile… My impressions of India were lifted from the previous day’s low. Winding through the precipitous slopes of Cheel ka Teela (Hills of Eagles), the thick stone ramparts of Amber Fort resemble a scaled version of the Great Wall of China. The fort, with a tiered stone pathway leading up to its main gate, is daunting. It was constructed on the site of a previous palace in the 16th century, and its elevated location provided a defensible position if invaders breached the outer wall. Adjacent is Jaigarh Fort, and the two were often considered a single fort due to a subterranean passageway joining them (one used as an escape route in the case of invasion). It was a brutal time in the region’s history, and the fort was invaded, changed hands, and retaken several times.

We were rewarded with hundreds of women and children laughing and dancing and singing. I stepped into the flow to be swept along in a current of good fortune.

South to Mumbai

Arriving in Mumbai (renamed Bombay by the British because they found it difficult to pronounce, and now reinstated as Mumbai) we were received by a marching band and a full-tilt celebration in honor of the completion of The Silk Trail Expedition. Pushing the prototype hybrids through a dozen countries and 16,000 kilometers—and letting journalists write with transparency about the vehicle’s performance— was a gutsy move in my opinion. Short of a dozen or so flat tires, the hybrids had no major mechanical issues. Expedition leader and Camel Trophy veteran Hans Hermann excitedly shared a story of a mishap in Nepal where during a photo shoot one of the drivers got off track and

The sari, which exposes a woman’s stomach, is regional to the state of Rajasthan and is frequently worn during the Lakshmi festival. The 16th-century stone walls of Amber Fort trace the ridgelines of Cheel ka Teela, or Hills of Eagles. Opposite: Men, women and children dance in the street during the Lakshmi festival. Overland Journal Gear 2014

Traveling in India is an assault on the senses; it permeates the being, saturates the soul, and triggers a flood of neurotransmissions that heighten our cognitive awareness.

ended up bonnet-deep in a river; an event one might think could kill an electric motor. Apparently the electronics are exceptionally well sealed. The vehicle was pulled out and survived for me to pick it up in Delhi. Job well done. On our final night Land Rover put us up in the Taj Mahal Palace, a 5-star hotel with rooms overlooking the port and the Gateway of India, a large waterside monument erected to welcome King George V in 1911. Though the hotel was luxurious and the monument impressive, I was again drawn away from the tourist traps and Chinese-made trinkets and took off on foot through the city. I’ve found that stepping past the melee associated with any metropolis and immersing myself in the local culture, even for a short time, brings me closer to understanding its soul. If there are 3,500 million gods that reside in a cow, so be it. And if the white and yellow lines on the road are simply a waste of good paint, who am I to judge? Traveling in India is an assault on the senses; it permeates the being, saturates the soul, and triggers a flood of neurotransmissions that heighten our cognitive awareness. The clap-shot pitch of camel hooves, a rickety wooden cart in tow, millennia-old cobblestones in a street market, the pungent airborne concoction of spices and herbs from a nearby trader, and a vibrant array of hand-woven wool rugs piled high in a corner market— this was the India I’d come to see. Putting food on the table often outweighs the need for an education, and many children in India begin working as soon as they can walk.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

On the Road in a Hybrid

On the road the Vogue hybrid retains the same elegant mannerisms as the rest of the Range Rover lineup, but with some subtle enhancements. Glancing forward from the driver’s seat you immediately notice changes in the instrument panel. Added is the hybrid power gauge, which indicates battery charge and charging level, power consumption, and at what speed the EV system will begin to assist the motor: the green zone. The heart of the system is a permanent-magnet AC synchronous electric motor that produces 46 hp and 125 lb-ft (170 Nm) of torque and is powered by 72 liquid cooled 6.8 NCA lithium ion batteries. The system works in harmony with a 3.0-liter turbo diesel and 8-speed ZF automatic transmission, and the hybrid aspect is nearly transparent to the driver. Because fuel consumption is heaviest when accelerating from a dead stop, this is where the electric motor provides the most assistance. It also acts as a generator, harvesting kinetic energy through regenerative braking which charges the battery when the brakes are applied (it is also charging when the diesel engine is at 2,500 rpm or more). Where the EV really shines with regard to economy is in stopand-go traffic. There are three driving modes: EV, Normal, and Sport. In Normal Mode the electric motor provides assistance in stop-and-go traffic, charging the batteries during braking and using the stored energy to accelerate from the next stoplight. EV Mode is just that; the diesel engine shuts down and the EV components power the vehicle. Range, sadly, is only about a mile (it’s not meant to be an electric car), at which time the diesel silently starts and takes over. I played with EV Mode and I must say (I haven’t had much seat time in an EV), it was an eerie feeling to zip through a roundabout, dodging rickshaws, camel carts, and trucks in stealth mode. Land Rover’s numbers were spot-on though; after about a mile at 35 mph the diesel kicked back on. Sport Mode leaves all that behind and puts the power of the pedal, 335 hp and 516 lb-ft of torque, at the driver’s command. Considering it can reach fuel economy figures in the low 40s, it is no slouch either. Top speed is 135 mph and with 0-60 mph acceleration at 6.7 seconds, getting on the freeway will not be an issue. As for the four-wheel drive systems, such as Terrain Response 2, they fall in line with the uncompromised capability of the rest of the Range Rover lineup. The Vogue also sports electric power steering (which we’ll be seeing more of in the future), which is well balanced and provides the steering wheel the feedback you would expect from conventional hydraulic-assist steering. Start-Stop technology is another move towards increased fuel economy. If you are used to driving an EV it will be a seamless transition. But I still find it strange to sit at a stoplight without a motor at the ready. Though the EV components weigh in at 264 pounds, due to Land Rover’s increased use of aluminum in the chassis and other components, the vehicle is still 660 pounds lighter than previous models. Unfortunately, the hybrid won’t find its way to U.S. markets in the near future. However, as the European Union aligns itself with EPA requirements, presumably with the implementation of Euro 6, we may see the Vogue and many other diesel platforms make an appearance.

Though the EV components weigh in at 264 pounds, due to Land Rover’s increased use of aluminum in the chassis and other components, the vehicle is still 660 pounds lighter than previous models.

Specifications Range Rover Vogue

• Engine: 3.0-liter SDV6 HEV • Output: 335 hp @ 4,000 rpm • Torque: 516 lb-ft @ 1,500-3,000 rpm • EV motor: 35Kw permanent-magnet AC synchronous • EV output: 46 hp, 125 lb-ft torque • Batteries: 72 6.8 NCA lithium-ion • Transmission: 8-speed ZF automatic • Weight: 5,300 lb • Performance (0-60 mph): 6.7 seconds • Top Speed: 135 mph • Economy: 44.1 mpg (estimated)

Imposing architecture has always been a statement of a country or region’s wealth. Adorned with an ornate mosaic of tile, this was one of many archways we passed through en route to Mumbai.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Between a Tree and a Hard Place For a relaxing swing on the beach or a soggy, mozzie-swarming night in Central America, we review hammock options that will make life more comfortable. By Graham Jackson Photography by Brian Slobe

Overland Journal Gear 2014

t was in September of 2010 that I was first introduced to the idea of using a hammock as a serious substitute for a tent. We were planning for No Limit Expeditions’ first Central America Exploratory Expedition, and Nick Taylor suggested that we investigate hammocks. His argument centered around their extreme lightness and packability as compared to tents (we needed to be as light and compact as possible given the number of people in the vehicle), as well as the ubiquity of trees in the region we would be traveling to. Research plunged us into an almost arcane world of people to whom a tenth of an ounce was critical (or at least viewed as so), and comparatively little consideration given to comfort or quality. These were hammocks that not only took the place of tents, but bettered them in many ways, only leaving the support structure to nature or improvisation. This was a realm replete with Dyneema rigging, tiny custom rope hardware with fantastic names (Figure 9, KnotBone, Dutchware Hooks and Tarp Flyz, Whoopie Hooks), and a truly dynamic and useful array of knots.

Buying a Hammock?

Consider

A few things to

1 2 3

Products vary in size and capacity, and should be selected by intended use, occupant height, and weight.

When choosing a tarp, rigging, and stakes, one should consider weather protection, support options for hanging, and anticipated soil conditions. A complete hammock and bedding setup should include the hammock, tarp, foam pad, sleeping bag, silk liner, pillow, carabiners, stakes, and accessory pocket.

But is it Comfortable? Lest we get bogged down in minutia, let’s step back and look at how these hammocks work. Prior to 2010, I would not have considered a hammock as a viable tent replacement. Like many, I thought of a hammock as a place to relax supine for an afternoon snooze, but only for a few hours, as I usually sleep on my side. Visions of bent-back pirates swinging in cocoon hammocks on the high seas and snoring like freight trains didn’t help. But apparently the Brazilians figured out the solution a long time ago. Sleeping in hammocks the Brazilian way (which I was very happy to learn does not include wax), involves lying on the hammock diagonally, feet to one side of the centerline and head to the other. This provides an almost flat surface and an incredibly comfortable one. Sleeping on your side is very easy, and I usually find myself in a three-quarter-side position that would be impossible in a bed, but perfect in a hammock. Setup options Hammocks are also very modular: rainflies and sometimes even the mosquito net are optional, and allow various setup options. High-end hammocks rarely come complete, and will require additional purchases like stakes, suspension systems, rainfly rigging, etc., all with an eye to making the system as individual as the person using it. Bedding Another consideration will be bedding. Since a hammock has airflow all around it, in cold weather some sort of sleeping pad is required. Under quilts are common, as are closed cell foam mats. These, in addition to a good sleeping bag, will allow for three-season operation. Rigging Rigging falls into two categories: suspension systems for hanging the hammock itself, and guy lines for the rainfly, tarp, or mosquito net. Suspensions typically include a polyester web strap for tree protection and then some sort of adjustable rope or strap system to allow for easy hanging. In my experience the best rigging is made out of ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene, or UHMWPE (for those paying attention, this is the same fiber used for synthetic winch line and most hammock suppliers use Dyneema), and comes in mind-blowingly small strands—a 1.75 mm Dyneema braid will hold 400 pounds. This allows huge weight savings while retaining or even exceeding other rope breaking strengths. Whoopieslings.com is a company dedicated to the production of Dyneema suspension and guy line systems for hammocks and tarps. All suspension systems used should include a tree strap. Just like in winching, this is to protect the tree from damage. After spending over 100 nights in my hammock, I wouldn’t consider anything else for jungle travel. The advantages, beyond weight savings and easy packing, include being elevated off the ground which is great in wet, muddy, and rocky conditions, and setup choices that can include rigging between vehicles, between trees, or from the rafters or side posts of palapas. Insect protection, which can be critical in certain environments, is excellent depending on the hammock. Products vary in size and capacity, and should be selected by intended use, occupant height, and weight. The following are basic offerings, and a combination of products should get your kit sorted out for your next overland trek to the jungle…or a relaxing swing from a beachside palapa.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

RIGGING

Rigging falls into 2 categories:

Suspension systems Purpose: hanging the hammock itself

Guy lines The Whoopie Sling allows adjustment with a sling bury on the Dyneema.

Whoopie Sling tarp rigging includes a KnotBone for the fixed end.

Purpose: for the rainfly, tarp, or mosquito net

All suspension systems should include a tree strap. Just like in winching, this is to protect the tree from damage.

75 Whoopie Sling suspension and tree strap can be attached to any of the hammocks except the Byer of Maine Moskito.

In a quest for quick and easy setup, hammock companies have created a variety of innovative rigging options, such as the Atlas Strap from Eagles Nest Outfitters.

Whoopie Sling tarp guy line with a silicone tensioner.

Nite Ize offers a variety of Figure 9 line tensioners and carabiners, which are solid options for cinching hammock rigging.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Eagles Nest Outfitters

OneLink Sleep System and Whoopie Sling

$220, $18

Pros

• Highly modular • Suitable for two occupants • Multi-position zippered door

Cons

• Weight • Needs larger rainfly • Bug Net hangs low • Short ridgeline Clockwise from top: OneLink Doublenest with Guardian Bug Net and DryFly. A separate ridgeline supports the all-enclosing Bug Net; a vertical zipper is at the entry point. Fifteen loops on the Atlas Straps allow for varied hammock placement and the perfect pitch. Everything in the ENO system has an individual stuff sack.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

he Eagles Nest Outfitters’ (ENO) OneLink Sleep System is the most modular and complete hammock system I’ve come across. It can be set up by itself for an afternoon at the beach, or with the Guardian Bug Net should small biting friends become an issue, or with the DryFly for rain protection. It weighs in at 4.5 pounds, the heaviest system in the review, and can accommodate two occupants or 400 pounds. Setup is easy using the optional Atlas Straps (1-inch polyester webbing). Simply wrap once around the tree or post and pass one end through the opposite end loop. There are 15 adjustment loops set at 5-inch intervals, allowing the hammock’s carabiner to be attached wherever desired. The DoubleNest is designed for two, though I would only advise that for afternoon lounging; two people in a hammock overnight has always struck me as either extremely optimistic or pessimistic, depending on their relationship. This being said, I would still not opt for the SingleNest for extended travel, as it is not an asymmetrical hammock. This hammock doesn’t have lateral guy lines, so when you move the hammock it will swing for a while. Not a huge deal, but certainly one to note. The Guardian Bug Net includes a ridgeline that can be run between the hammock supports or loops on the Atlas Straps. It fully encloses the hammock but does not touch the occupant, and the mesh is fine enough to protect from even the smallest no-see-ums. I like that the zippered door can be positioned on either side, but a disadvantage is that the net hangs low under the hammock, an issue in muddy conditions. The ridgeline is a bit short in my opinion, and usually wasn’t long enough to reach between our supporting trees. The DryFly is a minimalist option and would not protect the occupant from driving rain (ENO does offer larger tarps). Setup is fairly easy, though the plastic clips for cord tie-off don’t hold the cord tightly and require an additional tie-off. High-quality Easton aluminum stakes are light and up to the task of holding the tarp in firm ground. All items have individual stuff sacks, and there is a large sack to contain everything. While the OneLink DoubleNest is the heaviest and bulkiest system in the review, it is also the most modular. This would be perfect for throwing into the truck as an additional sleeping option. Made in China. eaglesnestoutfittersinc.com, 828-252-7808

Hennessy

Expedition Asym Zip

$167

Pros

• Side-zippered entrance • Stabilizing guys • Four-season use (with options)

Cons

• Tree straps too short • Minimalist rainfly

Clockwise from top: The Expedition system includes everything for a basic setup. The diagonal lay is easy to see with the top open. The hammock is enclosed with excellent bug protection and lateral guys stabilize the unit, though stakes are not included. Prusik knots on the tarp clips allow for easy adjustment and tensioning. The large stuff sack contains both the hammock and rain fly.

om Hennessy, who as a child used a surplus U.S. Army jungle hammock for camping, is credited with creating the jungle hammock industry. He eventually decided to make a better mouse trap and started his own company. Hennessy offers 11 models of hammocks along with a multitude of accessories to allow for true four-season use. The Expedition is large enough for an occupant up to 6 feet tall and 250 pounds. I chose the Asym Zip because I like the side-zip entrance. The system weighs in at 3 pounds, comes with a large stuff sack, and includes everything you need for a simple setup: hammock, rain tarp, and tree straps. Unfortunately, the standard 42-inch tree straps are only good for a tree diameter of around 6 inches. I’d opt for Hennessy’s longer straps. This patented asymmetrical design all but forces you to lie at the flattest angle. An integrated ridgeline insures hammock curve is the same with each setup, and the insect netting is kept away from your body for protection from insects. The ridgeline also supports a moveable gear pocket for keeping critical sundries close. Instructions are printed on the stuff sack and detail is quite good. The hammock should be level, at about chair height, and when weighted the ridgeline should be slightly slack. A full-length side zipper allows easy access and egress, and two elastic guys stabilize the hammock. Stakes, which would be needed for open ground, are not included. The tarp mounts on the ridgeline and corners can be guyed, though no stakes are provided. The asymmetrical shape covers the hammock but doesn’t provide extra coverage for camp duties outside (larger tarps are optional). Further options include sleeping pads, overcovers, underpads, and undercovers. The company has a long history with hammocks, and a review of the testimonials on their site revealed an array of applications, with users ranging from adventure racers to motorcycle overlanders. For anyone wanting a primary shelter without having to shop around for accessories, the Hennessy Hammock line will fit the bill admirably and should withstand years of hard use. Made in China. hennessyhammock.com, 888-539-2930

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Warbonnet

Blackbird Double Layer 1.1 and Mambajamba Tarp

$175, $110

Pros

• Zippered side access • Accepts integrated sleeping pad • Large gear pocket • Large rainfly

Cons

• Additional items needed

Clockwise from top: The Mambajamba Tarp measures 132 by 120 inches and provides ample space for camp operations. The gear shelf on one side allows plenty of out-of-the-way storage. Lateral guy lines provide stabilization and more room inside; there is excellent bug protection from this fully enclosed design. The double-ended stuff sack can be stored in place and used for storage inline with the easily adjustable cinch suspension. There are individual stuff sacks for hammock and tarp.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

arbonnet Outdoors, based in Evergreen, Colorado, is a small company who does all of their design and manufacturing onsite. If the Hennessy is the Land Cruiser of the hammock world, predictable, and tough, the Warbonnet Blackbird is the Defender, highly customizable, each one unique, and not quite complete from the factory. Tarp rigging is available from Warbonnet, but I chose to source mine from Whoopieslings.com. And this leads me to full disclosure: I own a Blackbird and it is my primary hammock for jungle use. The Blackbird is fully enclosed, has an integrated bug net on the topside, and is suitable for persons up to 6 feet 8 inches tall and 275 pounds. Access is via a side zipper, and the bottom is constructed so that a sleeping pad can be slipped in. A foot pocket allows for an asymmetrical posture, and the integrated ridgeline gives support and keeps the bug net from contacting the occupant. Opposite the door is a large gear pocket that is guyed out by lateral elastic cords, allowing for items to be kept close but not on the occupant. Two suspension systems are available: adjustable webbing or line/strap. I have the adjustable webbing, which combines the tree strap and allows easy adjustment via two cinch buckles. The webbing is long enough to accommodate tree trunks in excess of 30 inches in diameter, and requires only a single wrap and a carabiner to clip it back to itself. Another great feature is the double-ended stuff sack, which allows you to pack the hammock with one end still attached to a tree, keeping the hammock body off the ground. The Mambajamba Tarp, at 132 by 120 inches, allows significant space under the hammock for camp operations. Being a separate unit it can remain up while you pack the hammock—a nice feature. The tarp material is Silnylon ripstop with a 2000 mm waterproof rating, and two panel pulls on each side, which allow additional guy lines to be run. I find the Blackbird to be extremely comfortable when set up correctly. All this in a package that weighs just 3 pounds (including tarp). For those looking for a primary shelter that can be customized for exact usage and will last for years, the Blackbird is your hammock. Made in USA. warbonnetoutdoors.com

Byer of Maine

Amazonas Moskito Traveller Hammock and Rainfly $45, $70

Pros

• Large rainfly • Integrated gear pocket • Small and lightweight

Cons

• Suspension lines tangle easily • Storage pocket sags • Small for taller persons

Clockwise from top: The Moskito has an integrated bug net and a large 138- by 110-inch tarp. The bug net uses its own ridgeline; the stuff sack becomes an external gear pocket. The suspension is comprised of small lines that interface along the end of the hammock base. Separate stuff sacks for hammock and tarp; supplied stakes are very light duty.

yer of Maine was founded in 1880 and built their business making slippers and textiles. In the 1900s they supplied the armed forces with camp cots (they also currently have a great line of cots). It wasn’t until 1999 that they got into the hammock business, but they now offer a selection of them, including the Amazonas Moskito Traveller Hammock. The Moskito, based on a Brazilian design, differs from the other hammocks reviewed in suspension and cut. Ropes on either end are made up of 10 long loops that attach through the edge of the nylon structure. This makes it lie almost flat until you get in. This is a symmetrical hammock and at 7 feet long, is the shortest in the review. At 6 feet tall I found it a bit tight to lie diagonally without contacting one end or the other. The weight rating is up to 250 pounds. A mosquito net is built into the upper side, entry is via a side zipper, and top loops for the ridgeline keep the net off the occupant. Pockets on either side allow for storage of small items, but I’d suggest only very light and small items, as it will droop considerably. It also lacks a suspension system for attaching to a tree. Being a reversible design, you can simply flip it over for a net-free afternoon at the beach. The stuff sack is integrated and serves as a pocket when the unit is set up, though it remains outside the bug net. The cordage used for the net ridgeline is a little too elastic in my opinion and I’d opt to switch it out. Byer does offer MicroRope, but a tree strap in association with some sort of suspension system would be far better. At 138 by 110 inches, the Amazonas Rainfly is quite large. Made of 1500-mm polyurethane-coated polyester, it is independent of the hammock and uses grommets for guy attachment. It makes a good shelter and allows for plenty of space underneath. I found the guy lines to be a bit lacking though. Again, I would upgrade. If you are looking for a hammock that is small and light, easy to stuff in a small space, and can provide both lounging space and the occasional overnight berth, then the Moskito might be perfect. Just make sure you can fit in it. Made in China. byerofmaine.com, 800-338-0580

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Conclusions

Customize to Your Needs

As previously mentioned, I have a Warbonnet Blackbird, but I’ve swapped out the cinchstrap suspension for a Whoopie Sling. This suspension is fantastic for several reasons: it is light (made from Dyneema), offers quick and easy adjustment, and once adjusted, any weight on the hammock will lock the loop bury. Finally, the Dyneena doesn’t tangle as badly as some other cords. For rain protection I have the Mambajamba Tarp and Whoopie Sling tarp rigging. The ridgeline has a Nite Ize KnotBone on one end to secure to a tree and a Nite Ize Figure 9 attached with a Prusik knot on the other, allowing complete adjustment, tensioning, and quick release. The tarp’s guy lines include Prusik adjusters and a section of silicone-en-

Overland Journal Gear 2014

cased Dyneema that acts both as a tensioner and shock absorber. I also carry 10 MSR aluminum stakes. For bedding I have a small closed cell foam pad that goes between the Blackbird base layers. This is critical on cold nights. I have a Sea to Summit silk travel liner as my primary bedding along with an inflatable Big Agnes pillow. For cold nights I take the Kelty 30-degree down bag, stowed in a Granite Gear compression sack (see our sleeping bag review, Winter 2010). Finally, a Case Logic soft phone case clips on the ridgeline, providing a perfect place for my iPhone. This system has changed little during half a dozen Central America trips and has served me well. It is an adaptable, comfortable, lightweight, and fast system that can go with me anywhere.

Photo by Nick Taylor

Nothing is perfect. Well, few things are. So the question, when presented with a bunch of options, is to look at what others have done before you and how they customized their setup. I’m not the final word on hammocks, but I thought it might be useful to list the setup I use for jungle trips. My kit has to be light, compact, and warm enough for 30-degree temperatures in humid environments that feel more like teens, and be easy to set up in the dark after a long day. It also needs to offer excellent rain and insect protection.

ince comfort and fit are such subjective metrics, rather than empirical data such as in our LED light or solar panel tests, this review had to be a bit more about intended use. I did come into this review a little biased towards the Blackbird, and I tried to keep that from influencing my opinion of the other hammocks. I spent time with each product and I can see distinct areas where each would shine. The Amazonas Moskito Traveller is ideal for throwing in a corner of the truck to use on the beach, or for quick overnights away from the vehicle. It does have an occupant height limit of about 6 feet, but will serve well as a warm climate alternative to a roof top tent or sleeping inside the vehicle. For those who want serious options, the OneLink Sleep System from ENO is ideal. It is perfect for setting up on the beach or as a lounger for relaxing with a drink, but can also be used on serious forays away from the vehicle on hikes or overnights. It’s not really a four-season system unless more options are added, but its modular nature allows it to be customized for almost any situation. For true four-season capability, which may be more than most overlanders want, the Hennessy and Warbonnet options are all but equivalent, and preference will lean towards the small details: fit, comfort, rigging, and intended use. Both are very well made and can substitute for a tent almost anywhere, limited only by support for the rigging. If you want primary shelter capabilities in a small package that can be used away from the vehicle in all conditions and for extended periods, choose one of these. The Hennessy Expedition, while replete with accessories for any situation, requires a little less customization, and is an easier throw-in-and-go option. The Warbonnet Blackbird demands a little more initial thought, but will be just as versatile as the Expedition and shines in varied conditions where the tarp may not be needed, or additional coverage may be required. For my needs the Blackbird is perfect, and for that it gets the Editor’s Choice.

Resources

Whoopie Slings: whoopieslings.com Nite Ize: niteize.com, 800-678-6483 Outdoor Trail Gear: outdoortrailgear.com, 404-913-6384

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Hammock Comparison Manufacturer

Eagles Nest Outfitters

Hennessy Hammocks

Warbonnet Outdoors

Byer of Maine

Model

OneLink Sleep System

Expedition Asym Zip

Blackbird Double Layer 1.1

Amazonas Moskito Traveller

Country of manufacture

China

USA

China

Retail cost (USD, as tested)

$220

$167

$285

$115

Manufacturer website

eaglesnestoutfittersinc.com

hennessyhammock.com

warbonnetoutdoors.com

byerofmaine.com

Weight, system (oz/g)

72/2,041

41/1,162

41.5/1,176

48/1,360

Weight, hammock only (oz/g)

20/567

Same as system

25.5/723

16 / 454

Dimensions folded, hammock only (in/cm)

4 x 5/10.2 x 12.7

4 x 7 x 9/10.2 x 17.8 x 22.9

5 x 13.5/12.7 x 34.3

5 x 7.75/12.7 x 19.7

Dimensions open, hammock only (in / cm)

112 x 74/284 x 188

100 x 52/254 x 132

120 x 65/305 x 165

84 x 54/213 x 137

Tarp dimensions, open (in/cm)

126 x 62/320 x 157

63 x 99/160 x 251

132 x 120/335 x 305

142 x 115/360 x 292

Volume folded, hammock only (cl/l)

62.8/1.0

252/4.1*

265/4.3

152/2.5

Hammock material

Nylon

210 D Oxford nylon

Ripstop nylon

Nylon

Tarp material

PU coated nylon tafetta ripstop

70D PU coated polyester ripstop

Silicone coated ripstop nylon (Silnylon)

PU coated polyester

Height limit (in/cm)

77/196

72/183

80/203

68/173

Weight limit (lb/kg)

400/181

250/113

275/125

250/113

* Volume for the Hennessy is for the system since all is attached.

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Field Journal 86

Expeditions 7: Eurasia

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Alpha Camper

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Iran by Motorcycle

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Ghosts of Eurasia The Expeditions 7 team traverses 20,000 kilometers from Nordkapp, Norway, to Magadan, Russia, on the world’s most northern roads. By Scott Brady Images by Bruce Dorn, Clay Croft, and Scott Brady Overland Journal Gear 2014

Overland Journal Gear 2014

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Overland Journal Gear 2014

Tomtor, Siberia, is one of the coldest inhabited places outside of Antarctica. At minus 71°F, exposed skin will freeze in less than four minutes. The first brush of arctic wind against your

face will induce a shiver and early vasoconstriction, which pulls warm blood from the fingers and other extremities back to the body’s core in an effort to protect vital organs. Death can come quickly at these temperatures, and did for many prisoners held captive in Siberian Gulags (Soviet labor camps) and forced to construct the infamous Road of Bones. Known officially as the M56 Kolyma Highway, it threads its way through more than 2,000 kilometers of Russia’s heartland, from the banks of the Lena River transecting central Russia, to the country’s eastern shore. With our crossing of North America and Iceland complete, we’d turned our attention towards Europe and Asia. Our plan was to travel from the northernmost navigable road in the world, at Nordkapp, Norway, to Magadan, Russia, the easternmost road-accessible city on the Asian continent. While we could easily have taken a southern trajectory and bounced along the warm Mediterranean coastline, which would have still satisfied the objective, our team was excited to keep the wheels turned north―way north. This would entail passing through 17 countries and traversing nearly 20,000 kilometers. Nordkapp is located at 71°N, and though it was late June when we arrived, snow still covered the coastline. The summer solstice had just passed, and at these latitudes, the sun never really sets. A 6-hour pseudo-sunset teased us as it drifted across the horizon, casting golden rays through a crystalline atmosphere and prompting us to keep our cameras close at hand. In Oslo we’d unloaded the vehicles from their shipping containers and pushed north for the fog-shrouded cape. It was a greater distance than driving from London to Istanbul, and we quickly realized that distances on this leg of the expedition would be immense. Norway and Europe surprised us. Not only because of the stunning beauty of glaciated mountains and fjords, but the vibrancy of the region’s cities and people. Scandinavia, which is often lauded as safe and nearly sterile, was magical—a stark contrast to what we would encounter in Russia. We finished the European segment in Prague, Czechoslovakia, where we restocked supplies and arranged for some much-needed service on the Land Cruisers before turning north again towards Estonia. After spending a few days in the ancient walled city of Tallinn, Estonia, where there were 24-hour guards posted in our hotel parking lot, we’d been lulled into a temporary sense of security. It was on the morning of our departure towards Saint Petersburg that our idyllic view of Estonia was shattered…quite literally. Under the cover of darkness, thieves had slid past the guards and between the two Troopies. They smashed out one of the side windows and took several Red Oxx duffle bags full of clothing. Glass was everywhere and the interior was now exposed to a mounting storm. While we were certainly frustrated by the loss of gear, it was the window, which would be nearly impossible to source for the next 12,000 kilometers, which posed the biggest challenge. If there is one thing I’ve learned during my travels, it is to improvise. We taped plastic trash bags over the opening and pushed on (we would later fabricate a plexiglass replacement).

Our team arrived in Nordkapp under heavy fog, completing our drive to the northernmost roadaccessible point on the globe. We celebrated while

considering the contrasts between this place and the northernmost point in North America―Prudhoe Bay, Alaska. Nordkapp, as well as the rest of Norway, is so thoroughly modern and organized it makes not only Alaska, but also the rest of the United States feel a bit primitive. Eurasia, which encompasses nearly 53 million square kilometers, is the largest landmass on the planet. It’s comprised of two continents and 93 countries, and 72 percent of the world’s population lives within its boundaries. From the glaciated fjords of Norway to Lake Baikal, the deepest and most voluminous freshwater lake in the world, the landscapes of this

supercontinent were a visual and emotional assault.

From the romance of Prague to the industrial squalor of Moscow to the surprising beauty and warmth of Magadan, the cities and people were equally captivating. (Opening spread)

We brought the Land Cruiser to a halt just outside Kadykchan,

a modern-day ghost town in the heart of Siberia.

With fresh visas and two Land Cruiser Troopies, we organized our papers, pulled up to the frontier border crossing at Koidula, Estonia, and exited the European Union. Once the heart of the former USSR, Russia is the largest country on earth, and crossing it would prove to be our most ambitious and dangerous drive yet. In Yakutsk, on the banks of the Lena River, we’d pick up the Road of Bones, which would lead us across the semi-frozen reaches of Russia’s Wild East. Overland Journal Gear 2014

Overland Journal Gear 2014

After completing the Scandinavian leg we loaded the Land Cruisers into a ferry at Helsinki, Finland, and crossed the Baltic Sea for Tallinn, Estonia. We particularly enjoyed the old

city center and the optimistic outlook of the Tallinn citizens, some of the Eurozone’s newest members. Continuing

south, we explored other former Soviet Bloc countries including Latvia, Lithuania, and Poland, pausing to capture a few images of the Land Cruisers juxtaposed with a Cold War-era MiG.

The Czech Republic and the city of Prague marked the end of our European segment. Dirty and well lived-in, we pulled the Land Cruisers into the parking lot of a Holiday Inn. Though

we often hope the rest of the world, especially seemingly timeless places like Eastern Europe, will strive to retain their aesthetic autonomy, this is not always the case. We enjoyed Europe, but a very different

experience lay just beyond the frontier.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

One of the great joys of overland travel is camping in the backcountry, and there are few places more remote than Siberia. From striking camp in the snow to starting the morning fire for coffee and messing with travel mates, Expeditions 7 has become a brotherhood for team members. As we made our way to Russia’s Far East,

our campsites began to possess an all-encompassing calm, most sounds completely dampened by falling snow and the often dense and nearly impenetrable forest.

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94 The Aldan River is but a tributary to the mighty Lena River, a moving body of water so massive that ocean-going container ships navigate its depths. However, the Aldan isn’t a meandering stream by any measure. The ferry, which equated to a large barge being pushed along by tugboats, took over an hour to cross the river’s expanse. The ramp was operated

by a hand winch with rusted shackles and frayed cables, better suited for an ATV than the hulking steel exit platform. We were followed down the ramp by a couple of semi-trailer trucks and a half-dozen UAZs.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Most of the bridges along the old summer Road of Bones to Tomtor were gone, requiring difficult crossings and ingress/egress from the banks. One

bridge in particular, which had the appearance of a mogul field rather than a road, was so bowed and damaged I was sure it would not support the weight of our vehicles. However, there was no other option; each board creaked in protest as we slowly crept across.

The highlight of our Asian journey was the opportunity to drive to Tomtor, Russia, known as the Pole of Cold. This route

was built by the Gulag prisoners of the Stalin era, when millions of Russians were sentenced, often without a trial, to a life of labor, or death, in one of the most inhospitable places on the planet. It is

said that in a single winter up to 25 percent died of starvation or exposure. Life was of such little value that when a prisoner died, they were often buried under the road surface right where they fell. Despite its horrific past, this region of Russia, which is now in a genuine state of renewal, was my favorite.

The road, which began with fording a deep river that had claimed the lives of a family a week prior when their UAZ turned over in the current, was a perpetual challenge. Snow began to fall on our first night’s

camp and continued all the way to Tomtor, covering the ground with a veil of white. It seemed appropriate given the town’s namesake.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Different from other ghost towns, Kadykchan, which was built for the workers of the regional coal mine, is a modern relic. In the mid-

’90s coal production had declined, and in 1996 the town’s citywide water heating plant exploded, killing a number of workers. The Russian government determined that the repair cost could not be justified, and literally decommissioned the city. It was abandoned almost immediately, its citizens leaving behind anything they could not carry. It was an apocalyptic scene―a community of 15,000 souls vanished. In awe of this spectacle, we spent several hours walking through the debris and envisioning not only the prisoners who were forced to build a city in this frozen wasteland, but also the families who lived and worked there. We found the playground particularly haunting, a child’s shoe left mid-step, a sled propped against a playground slide, a swing set rattling in the frigid arctic wind. Stepping into several

of the concrete block apartment buildings felt eerie, like we were voyeurs looking into the souls of the past: clothing scattered about under

a decaying dresser, water-stained school books in disarray on the floor, and yellowing photos still pinned to collapsing tenement walls. These people, and their dreams, had vanished, and only a few vagrants remained lurking among the shadows. On our way south from Kadykchan we attempted another section of the Old Summer Road, one recommended by a Polish adventurer we’d met who had a Siberian tiger pelt nailed to his wall. This

all-dirt track kept us off the M56 for a few days and provided some of the most stunning scenery of the trip. When our detour rejoined the main

track just north of Magadan, we were back on asphalt for the first time in weeks; the hum of the tires now louder than the various rattles and squeaks we’d been listening to for many days.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

The Road of Bones crosses numerous rivers, and at times, the road was the river. This often pushed the

safe limits of depth for both team and truck.

We had made it, and in the process pushed nearly every boundary and comfort zone we’d previously thought possible. The team counted no less than four

near-death instances while driving. Road conditions and other drivers, who were most surely emboldened by vodka, were much more dangerous than any we had encountered during decades of international overland treks. When we rolled into Magadan the relief was palpable, not so much because the adventure was over, but that we (and the Land Cruisers) had survived. Our good fortune was not the case for countless victims of the Stalinist purges and those who died during the construction of the Road of Bones. On a hill above Magadan stands

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the Mask of Sorrows, a large concrete memorial in sullen form, the brow creating a cross and tears comprising the faces of the millions lost. From one

eye rains tears which are made up of faces, bearing marks of the emotionally distraught. Inside is a replica of a Gulag prison cell; the entire memorial is sobering. Having completed our circumnavigation of the Northern Hemisphere, we loaded the trucks into a container bound for Australia. The Southern Hemisphere awaited.

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Eurasia Trip

Route

Cartography by David Medeiros (mapbliss.com)

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The Alpha Camper We borrow a new Alpha Camper from All Terrain Warriors to determine just how mammoth it’s not. By James Langan

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omfortable overland camping outfits have been gaining traction in recent years. Whether it’s a roof top tent, a slide-in camper in the bed of a truck, or a fulltilt live-in conversion, there’s much to be said for being comfortable during long stints on the road. This beautifully crafted rig, or shall we say, home on wheels, is the creation of All Terrain Warriors USA (ATW USA) and was unveiled at the recent SEMA Show in Las Vegas, Nevada. After a brief inspection and a conversation with Alan Feld (who also happens to be the president/owner of Sportsmobile West) as to its unique features, I was impressed and knew I wanted to share this yacht-inspired creation with you. When the show was over Alan and I left the lights of Glitter Gulch behind and headed northwest into Nevada’s scenic backcountry. We landed near the Valley of Fire State Park and spent the evening and the following day going through the truck with a fine-tooth comb. Get ready to be impressed…

A Blank Canvas - Efficiency and Performance

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Opposite: 1. The left side door (the entry for right hand drive models) houses recovery gear, air compressor, water hookups, and battery jumpstart connections. 2. Rear bumper and tire carrier holds two spares, which are lowered and raised by a Warn 16.5ti winch. 3. The rear axle is rated for 9,480 pounds, parabolic springs improve the ride, and shocks are adjustable. Six spring mounts suspend the composite camper body. 4. Mitsubishi Fuso 4P10 4-cylinder diesel produces 161 hp and 295 lb-ft of torque. The tilt cab provides excellent access. 5. The electric roof is painless to raise or lower, and the soft sides have been tested at -22°F. Up front, an Aluminess bumper carries a Warn 16.5ti winch, and Rigid and Hella auxiliary lights. The Alpha rides on Toyo 285/70R19.5 tires fitted to ATW’s super-single wheels.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

To build the ultimate full-size expedition vehicle, ATW reviewed a variety of available truck platforms, consulted experienced overland travelers, and compiled a few checklists. Because the Alpha bodies are imported from ATW Australia, then fitted with appliances, cabinetry, wiring, and plumbing in the Fresno, California, facility, the chassis needed to be a blank canvas…one with good bones, available with an efficient powerplant and reliable drivetrain. Because it would be destined for round-the-world treks, international availability in left hand or right hand drive would be necessary, as well as being able to fit in a standard shipping container. When the dust settled the nod was given to the Mitsubishi Fuso Canter FG4X4. The FG4X4 is a cab-over design powered by the DOHC 4P10 inline 3.0 liter 4-cylinder diesel. The 4P10 (which has a variable-geometry turbocharger) produces 295 lb-ft of torque (1,300 rpm) and 161 horsepower (3,400 rpm). It also meets strict U.S. and European emissions regulations. Overall, the FG4X4 is modern, lightweight, efficient, and has a GVWR of 14,050 pounds. The DUONIC 6-speed, dual-clutch automatic transmission is electronically controlled and operates like a typical automotive transmission rather than a truck transmission. It also has a park setting and an easy-to-use hand-operated parking brake (you have to drive big rigs for a while to appreciate this). In the U.S. the FG4X4 lacks a low-range transfer case, though ATW USA is going to correct this. A factory limited-slip differential rides in the rear axle and an optional Torsen unit can be fitted to the front. With the platform or canvas in place, ATW USA guts the cab and adds Dynamat sound deadening material, a new headliner with in-dash GPS, and replaces the factory torture-rack seats with comfortable suspension units. The factory power windows, locks, keyless entry, and practical rubber floor mat are retained. Fore and aft cameras are viewed on separate in-dash monitors, adding to the already excellent forward visibility typical of cab-over trucks.

Suspension, Wheels, Bumpers, and Winches

The 16-inch dual rear wheels have been replaced with ATW 19.5-inch DOT-approved Super Singles. The reason for this is to have front and rear tires in the same track when off-pavement, and reduce on-road rolling resistance. The wheels are steel, rated for a remarkable 13,227 pounds each, and accept a readily available 285/70R19.5-inch tire, available in numerous tread patterns. The increased diameter of 35 inches raises the final-drive ratio, lowers cruise rpm, and improves on-pavement fuel economy. In Alan’s first 5,000 miles of use, mostly highway miles, he has averaged an impressive 17.8 mpg. To extend the range of the stock platform, a 47-gallon fuel cell is being developed to replace the 33-gallon OE unit. Potential range could be over 800 miles. To improve on-road ride comfort and off-pavement articulation of the stock platform, ATW developed a bolt-on parabolic suspension system. Combined with the Super Single rear wheels, it transforms the Mitsubishi Fuso chassis into a capable travel platform. I rode in this truck offpavement with the tires at full street pressure and it was evident that the parabolic suspension was a good choice. I have a commercial truck background and could feel the suspension working to absorb the terrain and stiffness of the tires.

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Aluminess bumpers protect both the front and rear end, each cradling a Warn 16.5ti winch. The rear winch is employed to lower and raise the spare tires; there are two mounted in a recessed carrier on the rear of the camper. This vehicle was fitted with an Extreme Outback ExtremeAire Magnum compressor, but an ExtremeFlow engine-driven compressor is also available.

Composite Alpha Camper

During the past 25 years, All Terrain Warriors Australia has designed and built four-wheeldrive tour buses and mining trucks. Two years ago, when owner Paul Campbell and his crew decided to create the ultimate overland rig, they needed to address the limitations of steel construction and inherent torsional issues that can damage a cab-on-chassis camper. The Alpha is the fruit of their labor. The interior, exterior, and even the framing are composite. The exterior walls, comprised of structural foam and fiberglass, are 28 mm thick; Paul likened their insulating properties to that of a 6-inch thick freezer wall. The body is very resistant to heat, cold, and impact, and will likely bounce back from a minor impact. If damaged, a do-it-yourself owner with a fiberglass repair kit should be able to manage most repairs on the road. Six spring-style body mounts secure the Alpha body to the chassis, isolating the camper body from torsional frame flex. These bodies just might outlive the chassis they are fitted to, particularly if the vehicle is regularly subjected to salty environments.

Hard Side Option

Specifications

Mitsubishi Fuso FG4X4

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• Wheelbase: 134.4 inches • Length: 22.25 feet • Width: 7.2 feet • Engine: 3.0-liter inline 4-cylinder turbodiesel • Transmission: DUONIC 6-speed automatic • Output: 161 hp @ 3,500 rpm, 295 lb-ft torque @ 1,300 rpm • Differential ratio: 5.285:1 • Brakes: drum, vacuum/hydraulic brakes with ABS • Tires: Toyo M608Z 285/70R19.5 • Wheels: ATW 19.5x8.25 super single • Fuel capacity: 47 U.S. gallons • Suspension: parabolic leaf spring, adjustable shocks • Weight (wet): 11,370 pounds • GVWR: 14,050 pounds

Alpha Camper

• Body: composite • Attachment system: six spring body mounts • Water capacity: 74 U.S. gallons • Electronics: two 215-amp hour marine batteries, two 100-watt Zamp solar panels • Height (top down): 8.25 feet • Interior height (top up/down): 6.6/4.8 feet • Berths: six

Overland Journal Gear 2014

While a pop-up roof has many advantages—reduced wind resistance and improved overhead clearance—sometimes it’s desirable to have a hard-sided shelter for added security or extreme weather protection. For this, ATW offers optional hard panels that can be fitted in place of the soft sides. The process involves removing the soft sides, raising the electric roof an additional 4 inches, inserting the hard panels, and lowering the roof. The truck can be driven in this form, is fully functional, and can be permanent if the owner prefers. The installation process takes about an hour. Having said this, the standard pop-up material should not be underestimated. Paul stated that a customer has already used a soft-sided Alpha at -22°F without issue.

Amenities

The Alpha interior is similar to a yacht: efficient, clean, functional, and handsome. Just inside the entry door is a shower stall. The drain is incorporated into the first step, and the faucet of the nearby sink pulls out and doubles as a showerhead. An Espar D5 diesel heater supplies ondemand hot water as well as heat to the cabin. There are two fresh water tanks (51 gallons and 23 gallons), allowing for separation of drinking and cleaning water if a potable source is not available. A 3-gpm pump, which adds chlorine to the system, can be used for filling tanks from a non-treated source. A 3M five-stage purification system then filters water when it’s drawn for use. The toilet, available in portable cassette, cassette, marine, or macerator form, is just aft of the entry door and out of the way when using the shower.

Eat and Sleep

A queen bed, a thick foam mattress topped with a memory foam pad, fills the rear of the camper. The dinette converts into a double bed and an optional upper sleeping berth can accommodate two more. The galley sits to port and includes a 5.1-cubic-foot Italian Vitrifrigo doubledrawer, dual-zone marine freezer/fridge. This camper had a flush-mount glass-topped sink, but there is plenty of space for a taller gooseneck faucet if desired. Drop-in cooktops (not fitted to this unit) can be butane, propane, electric, or diesel. An important feature is that the appliances, dinette bed, and queen bed can all be used with the top down, though there is only 16 inches of clearance above the bed—not good if you are claustrophobic. With the top raised there is a generous 80 inches for standing.

Electronics and Storage

Two deep-cycle marine batteries, a 2,000-watt inverter, and two 100-watt Zamp solar panels supply all the electricity most will need. A 4,000-watt diesel generator is available if owners select the optional 110V air-conditioner. The passenger-side interior wall houses a control panel for

The Alpha interior is similar to a yacht: efficient, clean, functional, and handsome. 109 4. 1. Solar, electric, and heating controls are neatly arranged on the curbside interior wall. 2. Five-stage 3M water filtration system inside the large rear storage compartment. 3. Looking aft, a Vitrifrigo dual-zone marine freezer/fridge sits below the counter and is flanked by large storage cabinets. Teak wood accents the spacious, yacht-inspired interior and there’s plenty of headroom. 4. Several sinks and faucet options are available for the galley. 5. Toilet, shower stall, and sink are compact yet very functional. 6. This tall wardrobe is near the queen-size bed. 7. Three large storage trays lie under the bed. Opposite: Cab function and comfort are improved with the addition of suspension seats, a custom center console, new headliner, and Dynamat insulation. The cab pass-through offers security, and the pivoting dinette table is easily repositioned.

7. Overland Journal Gear 2014

110 Considering the Alpha is a fairly large vehicle, the combination of parabolic leaf springs and ATW gas shocks renders it very competent in semitechnical terrain.

the furnace, solar, water systems, and electrical circuits, and several entertainment systems are available. Energy efficient LED light bars provide lighting in the galley, and five overhead lights illuminate the interior. Forward of the bed on the passenger side is a large wardrobe, above which lies a docking station for electronic devices. The queen bed can be raised with the assistance of gas struts to reveal three large storage trays and the galley has numerous storage cubbies. There are plenty of attractive and practical teak hardwood accents, including louvered cabinet doors and top rails. At the rear of the vehicle is a large full-width passthrough compartment that is accessible from either exterior side, or under the bed. Outside on the right toward the front there’s another storage compartment measuring 45 by 14 by 21 inches.

Resources

All Terrain

All Terrain Warriors USA: allterrainwarriors.com, 559-233-8267 All Terrain Warriors Australia: allterrainwarriors.com.au, 1-800-468-590 Aluminess: aluminess.com, 619-449-9930 WARN Industries: warn.com, 800-543-9276 Zamp Solar: zampsolar.com, 541-728-0924 Extreme Outback Products: extremeoutback.com, 866-447-7711

Overland Journal Gear 2014

It’s important to realize how large this vehicle is not. The overall height with the top down is only 99 inches, which meets the shipping container criteria (heights range from 8 to 9.5 feet) and overall length is just over 22 feet. The wheelbase is only 134.4 inches, just 7 inches more than a Toyota Tacoma Access Cab, and the turning radius is a respectable 45 feet. Overall, ATW’s Alpha Camper slips into the realm of luxury accommodation paired with backcountry finesse. The chassis is suited for the rigors of Central Africa, and the cozy interior and plethora of amenities will make you feel at home in the Atacama Desert. However, moving up to the Alpha from a roof top tent will come at a price, about a quarter-million dollars for this one, reflecting its land-yacht character. Then again, think of how much money you could save on hotel stays.

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Vroom, vroom! You have motor, yes? Lois Pryce treks solo through one of the West’s most feared overland destinations…and lives to plan a well-earned diet.

By Lois Pryce

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ran has been intriguing and infuriating the West for centuries. However, like a geopolitical version of a Hollywood marriage, it seems as if both parties thrive on the drama. The British embassy in Tehran takes up an entire city block but is currently mothballed, the result of our latest tit-for-tat spat. The American embassy has been abandoned for decades but the Iranians continue to keep it under watchful guard, maintaining the anti-U.S. murals plastered on its walls with the diligence of a museum curator. Like most Westerners, my impressions of Iran came from news stories borne out of the stormy history of rogue nuclear physicists, women being stoned for extra-marital hanky-panky, and images of bearded men burning Old Glory and the Union Jack in the street. When I sniffed around a bit though, it seemed as though there was another story to be told. Occasionally I would hear snippets of travellers’ tales, intrepid souls who had crossed Iran on the hippie trail to India, or as part of an overland world tour. “The Iranians are so friendly,” they would say, “It was my favorite country, the people are wonderful.” How could this be? These crazed, women-hating Islamists whose sole ambition is to destroy the entire Western world with their secretly stockpiled uranium were actually delightful people? It just didn’t add up. I decided I wanted to find out the truth about Iran. And the only way to do that was to go there and have a look for myself. Not with the entourage of a guided tour, or as a journalist with a suspicion-arousing press pass, but just as me, a girl from London trundling around on a motorcycle. It’s been 35 years since plain ol’ Iran became The Islamic Republic of…And it’s true to say that the Iranian Ministry of Tourism hasn’t exactly been working overtime since then. I had no idea if I would be welcomed with open arms or chased out of the country upon arrival. But after some nervous agonizing (how am I going to connect with these people…they don’t even drink!), I eventually set a departure date, applied for a visa, and then announced my plans to family and friends. Now I had to go. This was in December 2011, and the following day the British embassy in Tehran was stormed and set on fire. The staff was ordered to leave the country and by the end of the week the Iranian embassy in London was closed, its staff expelled from the U.K.. All diplomatic and financial relations between the two countries were severed with immediate effect. It was 18 months later that I finally managed to get myself a visa and set off on my Iranian expedition. At the time of my departure, associations between our countries still hadn’t thawed out. The two embassies remained closed and I was very much aware that should anything go wrong, there would be no helpful British ambassador to step in with a nice cup of tea. But hey, what could possibly go wrong for a solo British female motorcyclist in the Islamic Republic of Iran? My adventure really began several months before departure in my local branch of Snappy Snaps, where I had the photo taken for my visa. Iranian law dictates that women must wear the hijab (headscarf) in their visa photos and that make-up and smiling are forbidden. These three concepts were entirely alien to me and the result was possibly my least flattering photo ever. Just the idea of having to show this picture to anyone, even the stern officers of Iranian Immigration, was enough to put me off leaving home. Practicality eventually triumphed over vanity, and with my headscarf and a minimalist make-up kit packed into my panniers, I headed east. There was no denying it, I was nervous about this expedition. No matter what I’d heard on the travellers’ grapevine, I still couldn’t get

the image of raging Islamists burning the Union Jack out of my mind. What would they make of me in Iran? A Western woman travelling alone on a motorcycle was certainly not a common occurrence. My fears were heightened further upon arriving at the border when I was singled out for my British passport, taken to a police station for fingerprinting, and my details added to the Interpol database. “I’ve only come for a holiday,” I wanted to protest but the severe expressions of the policemen overseeing my inky-fingered activities told me it was best to remain silent. The customs and immigrations procedures were the usual lengthy affair. I stood patiently in the general melee that passes for a queue in Iran, unable to understand any of the instructions but assuming that it would all work itself out in the end. Next to me was an older Iranian woman dressed in the head-to-toe black chador. Tightly wrapped around her neck and hairline, it exposed only the oval of her face, wrinkled and

My fears were heightened further upon arriving at the border when I was singled out for my British passport, taken to a police station for fingerprinting, and my details added to the Interpol database. weathered from decades of Middle Eastern sun. She kept staring at me, her features large and expressive, though I was having trouble working out exactly what it was she was trying to express. Other women were dressed in Western outfits and had their hair peeking out of their headscarves, but this woman’s clothing suggested a devout Islamic faith and all the traditional values that accompany it. Sensing her criticism I felt nervous under her gaze. This is the Iran I had feared: disapproval from a nation of hardline Islamists, suspicious of my infidel jaunt around their country. Reluctant to lose my place in the queue I shifted around awkwardly, fearing the situation that I sensed was brewing. Eventually, she leant in towards me with a pointing finger. “You, you have motor, yes?” I must have appeared confused because she repeated it, but this time she accompanied it with the universal motion for riding a motorcycle, complete with engine revving noises and twisting of the throttle. “Vroom, vroom! You have motor, yes? It is you?” There was no point in denying it as almost everyone had seen my bike; there was no anonymity for the lone female British motorcyclist in Iran. I had a sudden cold fear that she was an undercover member of the much-feared “morality police.” I got a grip of my fevered imagination and fessed up. “Er, yes, that’s me, I have motor, yes.” She grabbed hold of my face with her big fleshy hands and gave my cheek an enthusiastic smack as a huge smile erupted across her stern features. “Very good! Very good!” She bellowed at eardrum-piercing volume, hugging me into the voluminous folds of her chador. The woman didn’t know her own strength but I was laughing too much to care. She began jumping up and down, whacking me on the back and squeezing Opposite: A mural in Tehran extols the virtues of the Basij, Iran’s paramilitary volunteer militia. Opening page: An ornate wall carving at the Yazd Water Museum. Overland Journal Gear 2014

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my face again in her iron grip, roaring with laughter. “Very good! Very good! Vroom, vroom!” Her motorcycle actions became more animated until she was imitating the moves of a daredevil speedway racer. She spoke excitedly in Farsi to her friend who translated for her, “She says she wishes you all the luck in the world for your journey.” As I waited in line for the last entry formalities her words rang in my ears and I hoped her warmth and enthusiasm were a portent of things to come. Finally, I was stamped, sealed, and delivered into the country. Under the beady eyes of the Supreme Leader looming over me from a huge banner, I fired up the bike and set off into the Islamic Republic of Iran. My first stop was the northern city of Tabriz, where thanks to some friends of friends of friends I found myself adopted by a local family who were happy to down tools at their busy downtown bakery in order to show me around the city. Tabriz is one of Iran’s largest cities and famous for its huge bustling bazaar where fabled Persian carpets are woven and traded. They adorned every floor, wall, and chair, and in the ancient narrow alleys, rugs and carpets were being shuttled in every direction on shoulders, on bicycles, and on the back of motorcycles. Small groups of men, fortified with an endless supply of sweet tea, sat on the ground weaving the intricate patterns. As I surveyed this exotic milieu I realized there was not a single sign in English. Nowhere did I see anything resembling the Roman alphabet and not a word spoken could I understand, but everywhere I went I was welcomed with radiant smiles. As I soaked up the hustle and bustle going on around me, for a moment I felt as if I had been transported into a fairy tale on a flying carpet. Later that evening my hosts invited me to their house for dinner. As I forced myself through countless courses of fabulous food and delicious cakes from their bakery, I was aware that my previous worries were melting away. It became clear that the greatest danger I faced in this country was the vast amount of weight I was going to put on if this level of eating continued. As it turned out the forced feeding was to be something of a theme to my journey. Iranian food is rich, varied, and delectable, and not only do the Iranians love to eat, they also love to feed complete strangers. Every time I stopped I would be approached, and inevitably fed, by passersby, car drivers and truckers who were fascinated to see a foreign motorcycle on their roads, especially one being ridden by a woman. Men working at the toll booths were equally welcoming and refused all payment, instead offering me bags of peaches and pomegranates until my pockets and panniers were bulging with fruit. Everyone greeted me with great warmth and wanted to know where I was from, and most importantly, what did I think of Iran. It soon became apparent to me that the Iranians were very much aware of how their country is viewed by the rest of the world and were often saddened by this image. Men and women of all ages were enthusiastic to discuss their situation, both personal and on the world stage. The central theme was that they were keen to engage with the outside world and deeply unhappy with the regime under which they were forced to exist. As I made my way towards Tehran I talked to local people when I stopped to get gas in small towns or food at roadside cafes. I became aware for the first time of the huge gulf between the regular citizens of Iran and their government. Most of the people I spoke to, especially of the younger generation, were openly critical and often angry about their leaders and were desperate for change.

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Everyone greeted me with great warmth and wanted to know where I was from, and most importantly, what did I think of Iran.

Clockwise from top: The fruit and spice market of the Tabriz bazaar. A vintage British auto collects dust below one the ubiquitous murals honoring the martyrs of the Iran-Iraq War. Carpet weavers at work in a local street market. Opposite: 21st-century smartphones and tradition converge beneath the 16th-century architecture of Fin Garden, Kashan. Overland Journal Gear 2014

Most of the people I spoke to, especially of the younger generation, were openly critical and often angry about their leaders and were desperate for change.

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My route took me southeast from Tabriz to Tehran, a 300-mile journey through barren and mountainous scenery; the wild country looked positively welcoming compared to the insanity that was taking place in front of me on Iran’s roads. I’d been informed by many Iranians, both before I left and since arriving, that Iran “boasts” the highest rate of road deaths in the world. And I do mean boast. As if it was a source of national pride, this statistic was always imparted to me with great glee and laughter. I kept reminding myself of all the hairy places I had ridden (Guatemala City and Kinshasa and Lima), but nothing, and I do mean nothing, had prepared me for the sheer lunacy of Iranian driving. I asked people I met to explain Iran’s bizarre combination of warm, cultured sophistication and this lethal anarchy being played out on the streets. But they had no explanation, and simply found my incredulity and terror to be highly amusing—always taking great pleasure in reminding me of their chart-topping status in the Road Kill League. Not only was I starting to get a handle on Iranian driving style, but also on the Iranian sense of humour. Once I’d got the hang of the fact that nobody uses turn signals, lane markings are no more than a waste of white paint, and that if there are only three cars on the road they will all drive within an inch of each other at the highest speed possible, I started to get into the flow. But when a truck started tailgating me, ultimately forcing me off the road, I’d had enough and I found myself reverting to my London motorcycling persona—giving it some appropriate hand signals with accompanying insults. After it forced me on to the roadside the occupants got out of the cab and I squared up, all ready for a set-to. Were these the angry Islamists I had been warned about? My tormentors came rushing towards me. I braced myself and was immediately overwhelmed by their barrage of excited smiles, digital cameras, and bags of fruit. They only wanted to take a photo with the foreign woman on a motorcycle, and feed me of course. Utterly crushed with shame and thoroughly humbled I posed for photos, and by the time they left I could barely move with every pocket crammed full of pomegranates and apples. As usual, Iran was surprising me at every turn, and always happily. However, by the time I reached my destination in Tehran I was tempted to fall to my knees and give thanks to Allah that I was still alive. Navigating my way across a city of 12 million Iranian drivers had brought me closer to those 72 virgins than I would like. In Tehran I was hosted by more friends of friends who initiated me into the wild ways of this Middle Eastern metropolis. Tehran is the beating heart of Iran and it was here that I truly felt I was getting under the skin of one of the most misunderstood countries in the world. I was introduced to a fascinating cast of characters, all with personal tales of life under the regime: men and women who had been arrested by the morality police, stories of revolution and riots, bribery and corruption, and of alcohol smuggling and illicit trade in banned substances from heroin to ham. There were plenty of the usual big city activities to see and do around town such as museums, galleries, and shopping, but in Iran the real action takes place behind closed doors—I willingly threw myself into the fray. With the clock ticking on my visa I couldn’t hang around for too long though. Iran is a big country and it was time to hit the road once again. My travels took me south into the desert, passing through a mixture of ancient turreted towns with elaborate Persian gardens and desolate industrial complexes protected by barbed wire and tanks. On the highway my presence was largely accompanied by an enthusiastic honking

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Street markets are the same the world over; everyone loves a good haggle. Women visiting a mosque in Tajrish, an upmarket shopping area of Tehran. Opposite top: Two women a world apart. Bottom: In Tehran, anti-U.S. propaganda plasters the walls of the long-abandoned American Embassy. Overland Journal Gear 2014

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of horns and shouts of encouragement from local drivers, but the policemen I encountered took a more suspicious view of my activities. They simply couldn’t comprehend the idea that I was motorcycling around their country for fun, and it occurred to me that they were probably more familiar with the procedures for dealing with spies than with overland travelers. I became conscious of the need to keep a low profile, which was a completely impossible ambition. I was, I guessed, the only Western woman riding a motorcycle in Iran at that moment, and my status felt somewhat like an alien that had been beamed down from outer space. Fortunately, the innate hospitality of the regular Iranians meant that although I was stared at wherever I went, the stares always turned to smiles, the questions to invitations, and yet more food. I headed south through the remote Zagros Mountains, passing groups of Kurdish shepherds wearing traditional outfits of baggy trousers and small woven hats, making their way slowly across the hills with

I was, I guessed, the only Western woman riding a motorcycle in Iran at that moment, and my status felt somewhat like an alien that had been beamed down from outer space. their flocks. I then turned east to the famous cities of Isfahan and Shiraz with their array of fabulous mosques, minarets, palaces, and boulevards—as well as a contentious nuclear site which, on the pain of death, must not be photographed. In Isfahan I decided it was time to ditch my Western version of an Iranian women’s outfit and got myself kitted out with clothes from local shops. But combining Islamic clothing laws with motorcycle gear was turning out to be a challenge. My new look resembled the end result of a game of Picture Consequences—a confused mish-mash which included a vintage Belstaff jacket over a shapeless denim dress, itself worn over a pair of faded jeans tucked into battered cowboy boots. When my helmet came off it was hastily swapped for a flowing white headscarf which only added to the bizarre getup: something that could loosely be described as Steve McQueen meets Benazir Bhutto in Laurel Canyon, circa 1972. It wasn’t my finest sartorial hour. Iran has many jewels, but the ancient city of Persepolis is probably its most famous site. Twenty-five hundred years ago it was Persia’s capital and it was an awe-inspiring experience to wander amongst its stone pillars, gateways, and intricate carvings, imagining the empire that once ruled from here. As I walked through the famous Gate of All Nations, presided over by looming pillars and perfectly carved horses and griffins, I was amused to see Henry Morton Stanley’s name scratched into the stone, circa 1870. Ah, the good old days when it was acceptable for explorers to deface historic monuments—I managed to restrain the urge to follow suit. Persepolis, with just a couple of discreet stalls selling key rings and postcards (should the urge take you), is a refreshingly uncommercial

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Clockwise from top: The Gate of All Nations at Persepolis. 19th-century graffiti courtesy of Henry Morton Stanley. The ruins of the ancient city of Persepolis. Shahrdari Square, Shiraz. Opposite: Intricate stone carvings from the 5th century BC are preserved at Persepolis. Overland Journal Gear 2014

and peaceful experience. Just a stone’s throw away is the remains of Shah Mohammed Reza Pahlavi’s infamous Tent City, the site of a lavish and celebrity-studded blowout. The gala proved to be the last straw for his detractors and led to the Islamic revolution of 1979 and the shah’s downfall. These days it resembles an abandoned and overgrown garden, the rusting skeletal frames of tents overrun with weeds and vines. But if you close your eyes you can imagine the troupes of dancing girls and Princess Anne getting stuck into the 5,000 bottles of champagne. With a Persepolis key ring in my pocket I headed further east and south across the dry lakebeds and mountains of the Dasht-e Lut Desert, crossing a landscape reminiscent of the American West on my way to the ancient city of Yazd. In Yazd a retired army general and his doctor wife, friends of the family who had looked after me in Tehran, were my hosts. The general, who had lost a leg in the Iran-Iraq War of the early ’80s, was far from the grizzled warmonger I had feared. He was

Yadz is an exotic desert city of ancient domed mud-brick buildings nestling amongst a maze of narrow, winding alleyways; I could have whiled away days exploring its many delights.

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Clockwise from top left: Photos from Yazd: A typical Persian garden. Traditional bread making. Shoes line the entrance to the Jame Mosque. Elaborate tile mosaic on the ceiling of the Jame Mosque. Opposite: Taking a shady break in Yazd’s town square. Overland Journal Gear 2014

hilariously funny, continually playing pranks, cracking jokes, and teaching me Farsi slang. In a moment of utterly brilliant weirdness that I could not have foreseen in my wildest imaginings, I found myself in an elevator with him and his 10-year-old son, all of us singing “The Final Countdown.” As we all burst into a chorus of “Da-da daa daa, da-da da da daa,” I thought to myself, “If it all ends here I’ll treasure this moment forever. I am so glad I came to Iran.” Yazd is an exotic desert city of ancient domed mud-brick buildings nestling amongst a maze of narrow, winding alleyways; I could have whiled away days exploring its many delights. But with just a few days left on my 30-day visa I headed back to Tehran, after making the decision that I would fly home and leave my motorcycle in Iran for another visit next year. My final day in Iran coincided with the Muslim festival of Eid. Mass prayer meetings were presided over by police and army officials who eyed me suspiciously as I rode through Tehran, taking a few photos as discreetly as possible. A funeral procession passed. The men led the way, carrying a coffin and wailing a prayer. The women, veiled in black, followed behind and wept. Their ensemble must have numbered a hundred or more. They stopped, blocking the road, and a man proceeded to kill a live sheep in front of me. I have never seen so much blood. It turned the road red as it poured into the gutters. All this emotion and brutality made me feel distinctly British and reminded me that I was a long way from home. Public sheep-slaughtering aside, after spending a month on the road in the Islamic Republic of Iran, one of the most feared places for Westerners to travel, I realized that I have far more in common with these people than I have differences. My journey had been surprising, humbling, and probably most unexpected of all, a lot of fun. Iran and its people had welcomed, entertained, and thoroughly charmed (and fed) me like few other countries I have visited. The time had come for me to go back to London. But I knew I would return, and I knew I would miss this magical country.

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Iran Trip

Route

Cartography by David Medeiros (mapbliss.com)

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Classic Kit

Bryon Bass

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Classic Swiss Kit Whittling a log, digging a bivouac in the snow, or running a bucket brigade—we pay homage to the masters of practical engineering.

he Overland Journal reader’s definition of Classic Kit might describe the genre as field worthy items that are: robust and overbuilt, reflect heirloom quality in appearance and construction, find a place in your essential equipment inventory, will be moved from vehicle to vehicle, and are rarely loaned out—even to trusted friends. In this installment of Classic Kit we examine military surplus equipment from Switzerland that might pertain to expedition and overland travel. Though designed for an alpine-based citizen army, these items are appreciated by gear hoarders and minimalists alike. They have an intimate, handcrafted feel that demands respect, can stand up against any modern equipment, and provide a counterpoint to mass production. Without further adieu, let’s delve into a few indispensible pieces of the Swiss Army’s Classic Kit. Overland Journal Gear 2014

These shovels are affordable, extremely durable, and of heirloom quality. They may outlast your current vehicle, and who knows, your friends might beg to dig your truck out of the next peat bog.

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Swiss Precision From precision watch movements to excessively punctual train schedules, the Swiss are revered for their attention to detail. Even their firewood is stacked with excessive accuracy. Each piece is probably examined with calipers, and then separated down to tolerances that would make an aerospace engineer envious. In short, Switzerland can be admired as an obsessive-compulsive slice of heaven. The Swiss have been unified as a country since 1291, when three cantons, or member states, formed the Old Swiss Confederacy. Over time, other cantons joined and there are now 26 cantons united under the Swiss Confederation. Swiss Armed Forces consist of an army and air force, and they are well aware of the value of a well-trained citizen army— land forces are composed of a conscripted citizen militia buttressed by a small cadre of professionals. After initial basic and specialized training is completed, the citizen soldiers, who retain their military issued fighting equipment (including a rifle) simply get on with their lives. It is no wonder that within the last century, would-be invaders decided to bypass this section of the Alps. Invade and you may meet your demise by a banker with a standard issue rifle he had stored in the garage next to his Porsche. With this model of defense the gear must be, literally, built to last. It must resist rust and wear, hold up for long-term storage periods, be readily repaired, and work when pressed into immediate service. We must differentiate, of course, between popular luxury items branded under the names “Swiss Army” or “Swiss Military” (luggage, nose hair clippers, watches, etc.), and kit issued to Switzerland’s fighting forces. The Swiss are thorough and exhaustive in designing their military equipment. I have come across Swiss Army issue mule packs, horseshoes, saddles, bridles, carrier pigeon supplies, toboggans used for snow evacuations, bicycles, field glasses (by Leica), compasses, artillery pocket watches (by Heuer), oak-handled ice axes, survey theodolites (by Kern), soup ladles, rifles, and ice buckets. The list is extensive. As a historical sentimentalist, I own a few of these aforementioned items and have regularly put them to use. Cream of the Military Surplus Crop As an archaeologist I find certain elements reign supreme when digging with a shovel, no matter how exotic or mundane the

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location. An excavating tool is one of those obligatory pieces of kit that every overland vehicle should have onboard. For some, a military surplus entrenching tool, or E-tool, is expected to get you out of a dry riverbed, mud hole, or other quagmire that has impeded your trajectory. For others, a Camel Trophy type shovel from Richard Carter Ltd. will do the trick. Fortunately, the Swiss Army did their homework when researching the timeless art of excavating by hand. And while they didn’t reinvent the wheel, spade, or shovel, they certainly made it better. Two virtually indestructible excavation tools derive from their efforts, the spade and shovel, and no matter which you favor, as Ray Hyland appropriately noted in our Summer 2013 issue, “Woe to you if you came to the party emptyhanded.” The Spade The fixed-handle variant produced prior to World War II and throughout the 1940s (and still in use until the 1980s) has a square point. By design, it could also be described as a spade, or Spaten. The examples reviewed here are maker and date proof stamped, as are most Swiss military issue items. Produced in 1941 and 1943, they were issued with high quality, saddle-grade leather sheath carriers. Sheaths were contracted to individual Sattler (saddle makers), attested by the distinctive branding stamps, and all carry the Swiss Army cross stamp, indicating military issue. Most surplus units are paired with a leather sheath, though the manufacture date does not typically match that of the shovel. Handles are oak, with an octagonal profile in the middle of the shaft, and held to the spade by a reinforced closed metal socket. A brass pin at the base indicates which side is up—handy when you’re digging at night. The socket, a two-piece arrangement, has a steel collar that pinches the two halves together, and five heavy-duty rivets to hold the socket onto the blade. The blade’s rear edge has a rolled lip to provide purchase when pushing the blade into the ground, and lateral and leading edges are sharpened from the factory. In this regard, it is interesting to note the inherent self-defense aspect of this spade’s design. This is the first item I break out when setting up camp. Besides using it to lightly clear unwanted rocks, the leading edge is great for hacking out undesirable floral species (where

legal and appropriate of course) and preparing kindling. To that point, I have gone through entire trips using only my favorite square-point Swiss military spade dated 1943, in place of a hatchet, machete, or grill spatula. The Shovel A square-point shovel isn’t always the best for general excavation, as it can prove difficult in compact soils and rocky substrates. The Swiss option is the folding round-point Klappspaten that came into production in the ’50s. Like the spade, units are stamped with the maker’s name and date, as are their matching leather sheaths. The stout blade has a slight concave form, ribs stamped into it for added rigidity, and six rivets secure the socket and hinge assembly to it. The shaft is oak, with the familiar octagonal profile and knobbed end, and fits into a solid (closed) steel socket. A large drift pin, driven through the socket and shaft, is ground flat and painted a dark, flat gray. In the normal configuration, when locked in place with the buttery smooth, over-engineered, ribbed tightening nut, the blade sets at a 10-degree angle to the shaft axis—a measure for efficient digging. It can also be locked in a hoe configuration or folded for compact storage. The bottom line is that these shovels are affordable, extremely durable, and of heirloom quality. They may outlast your current vehicle, and who knows, your friends might beg to dig your truck out of the next peat bog. Snowed In Mountaineering snow shovels are primarily intended for digging an emergency bivouac, conducting avalanche rescue, or assessing snow pack. However, in a motorized setting they are often used for vehicle extrication. No matter the application, they must be light, compact, and hold up to the task at hand. Most of Switzerland lies within the greater Alps of Europe, and when it came to designing a snow shovel, the Swiss Army didn’t disappoint. The blade, a modified square point, is made of ribbed (corrugated) aluminum. The tensioning collar, a thick aluminum ring, loosely encompasses the flexible open socket, which tapers down in the direction of the blade. When twisted, the knurled collar tightens the socket down onto the handle. An opposite turn releases the handle to allow for compact storage.

The engineering genius here is that there are no threads on the collar or socket. Tension occurs when the sides of the socket have the collar pushed against them. No special directional mantras to remember and no threads to get stripped or bound by debris. Simply insert the handle into the socket, lightly push down, and twist left or right. With this design, replacing a broken handle could be as easy as whittling down a tree branch. Why carry a collapsible 74-year-old surplus snow shovel in your kit? Well, the Swiss variant was classic before there was classic kit. Many units, whether currently issued or in surplus stores, tend to date to the 1930s. It is the epitome of a simple yet efficient design that stands on its own against modern hightech offerings, which are often constructed of Lexan, Kevlar, and carbon fiber. It doesn’t have any anodized parts, plastic, or spring tensioned release buttons, and isn’t intended for a single-season lifespan.

Swiss Army issue hatchet (Beil) and 1940’s issue Spaten square-point shovel. The Swiss Army issue Klappspaten round-point shovel. Opposite: Various maker stamps, year stamps, and Swiss Army cross stamps from saddle-grade shovel and hatchet sheaths.

An Axe to Grind In some Swiss Army units, everyone carries their own spade or shovel. But it is hard to imagine humping a hatchet around in your rucksack, along with all your bulky alpine combat gear, unless you truly anticipate needing it. To gain some insight into this I consulted a Swiss colleague who was in the army. He advised me that the smaller infantry units and machine gunner teams typically divide the load: one man carries the spade, another Overland Journal Gear 2014

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the axe, and a third totes the hand pick. Weight is easily managed when traveling by vehicle, and this is where the Swiss hatchet, known as a Beil, comes into its own. The carbon steel blade, which is easily sharpened, is a traditional single bit hatchet design with a flat butt (back side) for driving tent stakes. The head flares out after the cutting edge, a slight variance from the typical camp hatchet, and is painted black from the midsection to the butt. In this regard, it performs as a onehanded splitting axe, and the overall weight, 2.7 pounds, makes it adequate for duties where a light sledgehammer is required. The oak handle has a subtle curve in the haft, flaring out slightly at the base of the grip. This allows for a firm, one-handed grip and keeps your hand from sliding down the handle. Though the Swiss Army’s take on this timehonored tool may appear on the surface to be similar to others, they did it with typical Swiss handmade elegance.

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Swiss Army issue snow shovel, manufactured in 1939 and still in use, detects ice in a Swiss Army rubberized-canvas collapsible bucket. Variants of the venerable Victorinox 108 series (left to right) are the Safari Trooper, Safari Solo Plus, Safari Solo (a.k.a. Adventurer), and the original GAK, or Bundeswehr.

Most of Switzerland lies within the greater Alps of Europe, and when it came to designing a snow shovel, the Swiss Army didn’t disappoint.

Overland Journal Gear 2014

Down to the Water Line Another item the Swiss military got right is the collapsible water bucket, the Eimer. These are mainly issued at the unit level, rather than to an individual soldier, and are typically stored in vehicles until required. In previous times they were issued to cavalry units and often utilized as overbuilt horse feed buckets. Earlier models were crafted from thick, sailgrade canvas, which was later replaced by a rubberized canvas. The cotton webbing handles encompass the entire bucket, are adjustable, and are securely sewn at weight bearing stress points. Metal hoops are sewn into the rubberized material at the top and bottom to maintain a cylindrical shape. Finally, there are six robust leather strips around the bottom to protect the base from wear. The heavy stitching throughout is artwork in itself. To say these are sturdy kit is an understatement. Years ago, we obtained a dozen of these buckets for a multi-national archaeological research project on the islands of Croatia. During six research seasons our team shifted tons of jagged limestone debris, all of which was carried in these military issue water buckets. With a strap we would compress several into a tight package and attach it to a rucksack for the daily slog to excavation sites. After all that, only one bucket required a pinhole repair. These industrial-grade buckets have also proven highly reliable in keeping ice and de-

sired beverages in close quarters, are great for kitchen chores around camp, and collapse reasonably well; a stack of three measures about 6 inches in height. On occasion I have even used them for their intended purpose… lugging water about. Not the Knife You Were Expecting Most people are familiar with the branded pocketknife carrying the Swiss cross, but separate to modern commercial offerings, there is a long and distinguished history of military knife making in Switzerland. In 1891, a patriotic master knife maker named Karl Elsener wanted to bring production of the Swiss Army knife to Switzerland; prior to that time they had been produced in Solingen, Germany. Elsener succeeded and soon founded Victorinox. Victorinox, along with a rival firm that later became Wenger, secured the contract for all military issue knife production. The original, known as the soldier’s knife, was followed by a few interim variants, ultimately becoming the more familiar, scaled aluminum handle soldier model. As of late, a new version, officially called the Soldatenmesser 08, was issued to Swiss troops. But we now turn down an unmaintained, dimly lit back alley to the Victorinox connection: a Swiss-made, military-issue knife known as the GAK and its civilian cousins the Victorinox 108. GAK is parlance for German Army Knife, and the moniker 108 is based on its 108-millimeter length. Yes, in the mid 1970s the West German Army (Bundeswehr) turned to Victorinox to build a new pocket knife, or Taschenmesser. It’s not clear if Victorinox designed the knife from the ground up, or with input from the Bundeswehr. It is clear, however, that Victorinox’s experience with military knives and folding cutlery was key to the contract. And yes, it’s interesting how some things come back full circle. GAK handles are a scaled OD green nylon, have the Bundeswehr eagle on one side, and a lanyard hole sized perfectly for parachute cord. Tools consist of a spear point blade, combination wood saw, bottle/can opener, flat screwdriver, reamer/awl, and the requisite corkscrew. Around 1986, a file was added to the wood saw blade (intended for striking matches). This variant is informally known as the GAK-2. The GAK has an interesting feature not found in the other Victorinox knives: all tools open in the same direction. This arrangement eliminates the need to open and

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It’s the type of kit people cherish and pass on to their heirs or close friends.

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close different tools until the desired one is found. These knives are very resilient, and the can opener has no problem biting through the thickest tins. The GAK was so well received that shortly after initial production, Victorinox decided to carry the design further by introducing the civilian Safari Series. Some of the most rugged field kit available to civilians derives from the military, and the Safari Series is no exception. But unlike many civilianized pieces of kit, the Victorinox 108 and its cousins are the real deal. In fact, the Safari Trooper is the exact same knife as the GAK issue but with a Swiss cross rather than a Bundeswehr eagle on the handle. It is also offered with red scales, which is particularly handy in areas where carrying anything with a military appearance may be frowned upon. Sadly, the civilian Victorinox 108, along with the GAK, came to a formal production halt in 2003. These utility pocketknives, with full military pedigree and some historical irony, reflect the uncompromised quality expected from the Swiss. With a lanyard hole

that accepts parachute cord, a wood saw that actually saws, a corkscrew, and an awl that will go through the sidewall of the toughest tire, this knife is truly a classic piece of kit for the overlander. In Closing Swiss Army tools are the pinnacle of form and function. With some searching in military surplus stores and probing around the Internet, one should be able to obtain most of these items at a reasonable cost. When you do, they’ll most likely transfer from vehicle to vehicle, rucksack to rucksack, but rarely will they be sold and only reluctantly be loaned out. It’s the type of kit people cherish and pass on to their heirs or close friends. The aging of classic kit like this not only reflects its previous use, but also connects the current caretaker to a meandering continuum of heritage, tradition, and experience.

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for the safety of the Westerners in their strange vehicle. However, as the locals didn’t have anything in the way of water or mechanical advice, they instead had presented the ralliers with a watermelon and a bottle of vodka before tootling off in a cloud of dust. A short time later a pair of helpful Russian truck drivers came across the stricken Englishmen and offered to stick the ailing Uno on the back of their truck and ferry it to the next town—for the bargain price of 500 tenge, about $4 USD. This is where we entered the scene. As we watched the truck driver try to position the 18-wheeler perpendicular to the embankment so the Uno could be eased onto the trailer, it became exceedingly obvious that the Good Samaritans were far from sober. The shirtless driver’s mate stood calling directions, his huge paunch shaking and shuddering with each slurred command. In return the driver squinted in the bright sun and shouted angry retorts back to his cohort between frequent swigs from an unidentified bottle. After numerous failed attempts the rear chassis of the trailer was eventually rammed into the soft edge of the road, leaving a gap of a few metres up to the trailer bed. While the Russians set about building a makeshift ramp from various pieces of wood, the driver of the Uno looked progressively unhappy with the situation. The planks were either way too thin to support the weight of a car or too short to bridge the gap. Although the integrity of the ramp looked far from suitable, they were shuffled around in such a way that the gap was eventually bridged. With a mighty rattle the battered Fiat’s engine was fired up and the driver nervously inched forward onto the creaking boards. He crept off the sand with a look of frozen horror and seemed oblivious to the voices, all shouting different directions. If the wood gave way now it would mean a two-metre nosedive and the definite destruction of their damaged engine mounts. The bridge held and the assorted onlookers cheered as the Uno cleared the last plank. The Russians motioned for the rest of us to join the first car on the trailer, but after seeing the flex in the ramp we agreed to follow behind. I was daydreaming about the meal we could get in the next town as I climbed back into our Suzuki. But just before I closed the door I was jolted back to reality by raised voices. “No, no, NO!” shouted a Russian voice from near the truck, “no tenge… doo-leer!” We moved forward and saw the heated discussion between the ralliers and truckers. Rather than 500 tenge, the truckers were actually asking for $500 USD. Even if the ralliers had wanted to pay that much it seemed extremely unlikely that they could afford it; it was more than the total value of most of the cars in the rally. (Since rally cars are donated to charity in Ulaanbaatar, most ralliers buy the cheapest thing that rolls under its own power.) After much shouting the Uno was ordered off the truck and the angry Russians jumped into their cab and cranked up the smoky engine. Despite our desperate shouts that the Uno was still on the ramp, they steamed off in a cloud of dust and diesel fumes. The pile of wood completely collapsed, leaving the Uno teetering halfway over the edge of the embankment. With its back wheels on the road and its front wheels halfway down the slope we could barely see underneath to determine whether it was stuck or not. After much deliberation we decided to carefully try to tow it back up onto the road. Our Suzuki being the only four-wheel drive in the group, we volunteered and were soon hitched up and giving full power. Our engine screamed and the acrid smell of an overworked clutch started to waft in through the windows. Suddenly there was a loud crack and we lurched forward towards the drop on the other side of the road. I was jolted forOverland Journal Gear 2014

ward as my co-driver jumped on the brakes. We clambered out to discover the tow rope had snapped. The Uno was clearly stuck fast and we needed another approach: we decided to jack up the car for a better look. Using the wood leftover from the truckers, we painstakingly raised the Uno one plank at a time until we could see that the sump guard was stuck fast in the soft sand. An hour or so later we had raised the front and dug the underneath out enough for another attempt. We tied the rope back together and gingerly pulled it back onto the road. Relieved, we were ready to move on. One of the other teams had a newer and much more detailed topographical map, and a quick look showed that the road Chris and I had been planning to follow petered out into nothing deep in the desert. I heaved a sigh of relief as we agreed to slowly convoy on to Aral together using the more definite routes whilst trying to avoid the worst of the potholes. After a few miles of torturous progress we noticed the unfortunate Uno was again immobile and far back in our grimy rearview mirror. Their battery had set on fire so we all agreed to find a way down off the road and make camp for the night before reassessing the plan in the morning. We circled the wagons and watched the sun go down. As we shared the gifted bottle of vodka I began to feel overwhelmingly lucky; our car was drivable, we were in good company, and our chance encounter and look at the new map had saved us from almost certainly getting stuck in the middle of the desert with little water or fuel. The vodka went down and the stars came out, and I decided that I would sleep under them. With all this recent luck, what was the chance of rain in the desert? In the distance lightning flashed…

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Johno Ellison

Image by Michele Dallorso

Tail Lamp

As Luck Would Have It Russian truckers, Good Samaritans, and a bottle of vodka.

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ver the last week my friend Chris and I had been turned away from two separate borders. First we had attempted to cross into Georgia only to be turned away due to the ongoing conflict in the semi-autonomous region of Abkhazia. Then after much head scratching, and with the expiration dates of our Russian visas looming large, we headed back up through the Caucasus, carefully skirted war-torn Chechnya, and made our way over to the Caspian Sea. As part of the Mongol Rally, a 10,000-mile road trip from London to Mongolia, our final destination was the capital city of Ulaanbaatar. After studying our tiny and outdated Eastern Bloc road atlas we concluded that our next plan of attack should be to try to enter Azerbaijan. From here we would theoretically get a ferry over to Turkmenistan and continue eastward. Unfortunately, the border guard took one look at our foreign license plates and immediately called his superior over. He told us in halting English that due to the amount of smuggled weapons through this border, the president of Russia himself had decreed that no foreigners could cross. Even a not-so-subtle hint of a bribe didn’t do the trick, which left Kazakhstan as our only remaining option. It’s strange how crossing a line drawn on a map can correlate with such striking physical changes. In this case, crossing the flat, lazy Kigach River, away from the lush, green overgrown streets of Astrakhan and into the strange treeless environment of Kazakhstan was a welcome relief. One thing that did remain the same was the frequency of police stops that our tiny, conspicuous yellow Suzuki SJ seemed to generate. To avoid additional delays we rushed through to the city and out into the open desert. We were following a thin red line in our atlas that would supposedly link us to our next destination, but as the smoky horizon of the city faded behind we grew nervous. The road got steadily worse and our plan started to look less and less feasible. Overland Journal Gear 2014

The idea was to head directly east to Aralsk, a former port town left stranded in the middle of the desert when the Aral Sea dried up. We were hoping to witness the rusting hulks of fishing boats and freighters that are now perched in the sand, miles from the waterfront. However, it seemed we were being steadily funneled to the northeast and I was starting to get really uncomfortable with the prospect of driving across 400 or more miles of parched desert on what amounted to an oversized goat path. The road continued to get progressively worse and soon became little more than a dirt track with small patches of asphalt between the crater-like potholes. It was all taking its toll on our $250 USD car, which was running rougher than the proverbial badger’s arse. The bodywork was so deeply ingrained with dust that the number plates and sponsor stickers were unreadable, and two of the four brackets supporting the roof rack had snapped. We tried our best to keep our speed to a compromise between bumpiness and making reasonable progress, but found that the most we could bear was a measly 25 mph. As noon approached, the sun beat down fiercely and the irregular shaking of the car was becoming almost unbearable. In the dusty distance some familiar shapes appeared. As we drew closer they transformed into the forms of a Nissan Micra, a Volkswagen Polo, and a Fiat Uno—undoubtedly other teams on the 2006 Mongol Rally. We rolled up and climbed out to see what they were all staring at. The road, or what was supposed to be a road, was raised up on an embankment. Next to it, down in the scrubland, was a massive 18-wheeler truck trying to reverse itself back up to the road. The driver of the Uno soon explained the situation. Their car was in a bad way. So much so that their engine mounts had started to snap and the engine was now lashed to a ladder, which was in turn lashed to the car’s front bodywork. Earlier, their car in an almost non-drivable state, they’d sat in the desert for hours waiting for a car to pass. When one finally turned up and stopped, its occupants were deeply concerned Continued on page 134

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