Overland Journal :: Gear 2020

GEAR GUIDE 2020 $12

OVERLAND

JOURNAL

OZARKS | OVERLAND TRUCK OF THE YEAR | BURUNDI | EAST MOJAVE HERITAGE TRAIL

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CONTENTS GEAR 2020

Feature s 34

Deep Ozarks: A Springtime Arkansas Traverse, Susan Dragoo

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Overland Truck of the Year: The Best Midsize Pickups, Scott Brady

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The East Mojave Heritage Trail: Reclaimed Route Challenges Pathfinders, Bill Creech

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The Dig Tree: Western Sahara by Royal Enfield Himalayan, Chris Scott

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Feature Vehicle: TAV Toyota Tacoma, Scott Brady

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Can You Hear Me Now?: Staying Connected on the Road, Chris Cordes and Scott Brady

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Burundi Beckons: Find the Secret to Happiness, Dan Grec

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Feature Vehicle: Suzuki Jimny, Tom Sheppard

Dep artments 14

The Feed

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Field Tested

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Overland News

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The Collective: Moto Maintenance, Brendon Hak

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Life on the Road: Traveling as a Team, Kelsey Huber

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Skills: Travel Safety at Hotels and Private Accommodation, Bryon Bass

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Classic Kit: The Pelican Case, Susan Dragoo

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Tail Lamp: Amphibians on the Zambezi, John Gaisford

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On the cover: For the midsize Overland Truck of the Year test we used models throughout the Western United States including the slickrock of Moab, Utah. Photo by Scott Brady This photo: It took two long days to cross the seemingly endless expanse of Paracas National Reserve in Peru. Photo by Kira Hak Back cover: The vast desert coastline of Paracas National Reserve, Peru. Photo by Kira Hak OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

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OVERLAND J O U R N A L

WE ARE ADVENTURERS

Constantly traveling.

Testing and using gear in real-world situations.

Gaining experience, which we readily share.

OUR RESUME

7 continents | 161 countries | 496 years combined experience

EXPERIENCE MATTERS

WE ONLY KNOW THINGS WHEN WE LIVE THEM

GEAR GUIDE 2020

PUBLISHER AND CHAIRMAN Scott Brady

PRESIDENT AND DIRECTOR OF DESIGN Stephanie Brady CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER Christian Pelletier

CHIEF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT OFFICER Brian McVickers CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Andre Racine

DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Michael Brailey EDITOR, OVERLAND JOURNAL Tena Overacker EDITOR, EXPEDITION PORTAL Chris Cordes CONSERVATION EDITOR Åsa Björklund

MEDICAL EDITOR Dr. Jon Solberg, MD, FAWM

ARCHAEOLOGY SENIOR EDITOR Bryon Bass, PhD

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Bill Creech, Susan Dragoo, John Gaisford, Dan Grec, Brendon Hak, Kelsey Huber, Ryan Keegan, Chris Scott, Tom Sheppard, James Young SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER Bruce Dorn CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Kira Hak, Colin Robbins, Tony Talbert, Livia Tru, Mark Warden COPY EDITORS Kristen Knott, Arden Kysely, Jacques Laliberté TECHNICAL EDITOR Chris Ramm CARTOGRAPHER David Medeiros CUSTOMER SERVICE COORDINATOR Alexandra Christenson CONTACT

Overland Journal, 3035 N Tarra Ave, #1, Prescott, AZ 86301 service@overlandjournal.com, editor@overlandjournal.com, advertising@overlandjournal.com, 928-777-8567 MOVING?

Send address changes to service@overlandjournal.com.

Include complete old address as well as new address.

Allow two to four weeks for the change to become effective.

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Overland Journal is a trademark of Overland International, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Overland Journal is a wholly owned subsidiary of Overland International.

NO COMPROMISE We carefully screen all contributors to ensure they are independent and impartial. We never have and never will accept advertorial, and we do not allow advertising to influence our product or destination reviews.

THE FEED ROW 1 @aldo.vera.toto This photo was made with the drone—can you spot us? It’s difficult; we are almost invisible with our Totò. @thelongwaytoindia Day 175: 12 days of throwbacks. Today—India! It took 143 days to drive from Germany to India. The north of India is so different from what was expected, and I can’t wait to explore more of this country. #IncredibleIndia @theunpluggedfamily I think I threaded the needle? We weren’t planning on doing the drive through @custerstateparksdi, but I’m so glad we did. I didn’t know anything about the park until the day before when searching for things to do around Mount Rushmore. Needles Highway and Iron Mountain Road made for beautiful and fun driving. When we started the trip, I had barely driven the LandCruiser. Now I’m driving into, and through, some pretty crazy places.

ROW 2 @aroundgaia When you travel without GPS, the route offers you moments like this. @travel_beasts Not all breakdowns are created equal—a shot from Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia, the world’s largest salt flat. The journey was defined by constant electrical problems due to the highly conductive salt water. Photo by @euro4x4parts #LifeOfAdventure#NeverStopExploring @sarajane007 This is totally Thean’s highlight of the quarter—enjoying the article on Airstream’s founder.

ROW 3 @owenmesdag It’s always easier with a helper: Son Tao Mesdag assists on a repair on the 1964 Series 2A. Photo by Jim Meyers, @VertizonPhoto. #HelpingHand#AlvordDesert @rules_ofthe_road In case you haven’t been introduced, this is our 96 Land Rover Defender. We call her Minimum Chips, or Chipsey for short. She is looking particularly handsome amongst the trembesi trees at Jawatan Perhutani in East Java. @kelseecam Rusty, the crag dog, relaxing before a big day of climbing.

KEEPING IT REAL

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Chris [Cordes], I really enjoyed your build story on the Apex Predator (Fall 2019). It was a well-woven “why” intertwined with the requisite “how” for any proper build. It also advocated easing off the mainstream and into the realm of dreams. It gave permission, if you will, to re-evaluate the norm and risk traditional security for a higher value, the rare freedom of working from the road—or lack thereof. Once again, thank you for putting things in perspective while enlightening us on a few technical upgrades to an old truck.

Bill Dragoo 2011 Toyota Tacoma, 2016 4Runner, 1976 FJ 40, 1986 Jeep CJ7

LET THE TRIP TAKE YOU

Just getting through the Summer 2019 edition. Having traveled and lived in a 109-inchlong wheelbase Land Rover Station Wagon OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

for over nine years through Mexico and parts of Central America, I appreciated Graeme Bell’s list of what to pack. Aside from our 14 pairs of undies versus his 12 pairs, I did wonder how he and his family showered or bathed, and where he stored his computer to edit photos. More important still, [there were] no mention of any toilet facilities.

I also appreciated that Brendon and Kira, [from] “An Unplanned Adventure,” have discovered the rule The Turtle Expedition has followed for 45 years: Don’t take the trip. Let the trip take you. That said, it can be a bit of a trap. I crossed the Mexican border in 1972, thinking I would surely be in Guatemala in about three months, headed for South America. Nine years later, I was still driving around Mexico.

Gary Wescott The Turtle V, 1999 Ford 550 Super Duty

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WHERE HAS YOUR OVERLAND JOURNAL BEEN? Send us a photo, along with your name, the location, make/year of your vehicle, and a brief description. editor@overlandjournal.com

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CONTRIBUTORS GEAR 2020

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SUSAN DRAGOO

CHRIS SCOTT

BILL CREECH

Shedding light on the obscure, especially at the juxtaposition of man and nature, drives Susan Dragoo to explore the historical treasures of the American Southwest. On wheels or afoot, an old trail and a camera are her key ingredients for a fulfilling adventure. A writer, photographer, and student of history since youth, Dragoo’s work is found in motorcycling, 4WD, hiking, and other travel publications, and her scenic photography in state park lodges and cabins in her home state of Oklahoma.

Gallivanting in their Toyota Tacoma GS is a favorite pastime for Susan and her husband, Bill, when they are not at home in Norman, Oklahoma, enjoying their family and running Dragoo Adventure Rider Training (DART).

Chris Scott is an award-winning, UK-based adventure travel writer who specializes in the Sahara; he’s visited over 40 times since 1982, from the Atlantic Ocean to the Red Sea using motorcycles, 4WDs, a jacked-up Mercedes sedan, local bush taxis, and camel caravans.

Chris’ desert films have been featured on the National Geographic channel, and for many years he updated the Outback regions of Australia for Rough Guides. His books include Sahara Overland, the Adventure Motorcycling Handbook, and Overlanders’ Handbook. He recently published a short guide on Sahara camel trekking as well as The Street Riding Years, an urban memoir describing his life as a motorcycle messenger in 1980’s London. An Amazon bestseller, it was Ride magazine’s “Book of the Year.”

Hailing from California, Bill grew up enjoying the outdoors. His first remote exploration trip was in the 1980s with his girlfriend’s family in their Scout to Death Valley. A certified Master Diver, he has worked in water search and rescue and is now a corporate supply chain strategist and planning professional. His lifestyle of outdoor exploring, hiking, and camping morphed into overlanding after discovering Overland Journal at a bookstore. Inspired

by Jonathan Hanson’s Fractal Exploration, he is championing that philosophy (with Jonathan’s encouragement). He’s happiest when overlanding with his soulmate, Michelle, (the same girl from the Death Valley trip) in their fully kitted Chevy Avalanche—sharing skills, exploring remote locations, and making new friends along the way.

DAN GREC

TOM SHEPPARD

Dan Grec is an adventurer, snowboarder, and photographer who now hails from Whitehorse, Yukon, Canada. Growing up in Australia, family camping trips gave Dan a passion for wilderness exploration in remote destinations.

After studying and working as a software engineer, Dan went in search of a more vibrant life.

Eventually driving 40,000 miles from Alaska to Argentina, he became inspired by the characters he met along the way and is now dedicated to helping others realize their own overland dreams. To this end, Dan created and maintains WikiOverland—the community encyclopedia of overland travel. After years of planning and preparation, in early 2019, Dan completed a circumnavigation of the entire African continent in his Jeep Wrangler Rubicon.

Tom’s overlanding experience spans over 50 years and 110,000 miles, including three UK–Gulf journeys (one through pre-tarmac Saudi Arabia), off-tracks exploration in Northern Africa, and the first-ever lateral crossing and continuous gravity survey of the Sahara from the Atlantic to the Red Sea, for which he gained the Royal Geographical Society’s Ness Award. Tom is, as he puts it, “CEO, MD, author, photographer, designer, and postal clerk” at Desert Winds Publishing in the UK, from which have emerged the Vehicle-dependent Expedition Guide, Fourby-four Driving, The Nobility of Wilderness, and Quiet, for a Tuesday—the story of his 16th foray into the remotest regions of the Algerian Sahara.

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CONTRIBUTORS GEAR 2020

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JAMES YOUNG

RYAN KEEGAN

BRENDON AND KIRA HAK

James is currently enjoying full-time travel with his wife, Claire. Their first taste of adventure was a yearlong around-the-world backpacking trip in 1994 when they were just 20 and 18 years old. Ten years later, they swapped England for the great outdoors, moving to British Columbia in Canada. Keen Ironman athletes, they grew weary of snow and began venturing south for training every winter, buying a 26-foot trailer to snowbird in San Diego’s RV parks. Feeling trapped by asphalt, they researched off-road campers, which led them to overlanding, which led to Claire demanding a truck camper, house sale, and adventure. They are currently traveling the world in Sherpa, a Ram 3500 and XPCamper, under the name This Big Road Trip.

Born and raised in Southern California, Ryan spent his teenage years and early 20s skateboarding, shooting photos on a used Canon AE-1, and playing guitar in punk bands. In December of 2000, he joined the United States Marine Corps as an infantryman and small craft coxswain with a boat company. The majority of his service was spent living out of a rucksack and on the water, including time in Kosovo, Kenya, Djibouti, and Iraq. His travels with the USMC ignited his passion for travel and culture.

After leaving the corps, he found a home in Arizona, attending Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University studying global intelligence and Middle Eastern studies. Currently, he is an aspiring photographer and videographer, refining his passion for adventure and creativity.

Brendon has been behind the wheel his entire life, his first solo expedition being at just six years old. No matter the season, you can find him outside, twisting a throttle or stomping a pedal. Kira’s passion has always been travel and photography. For her, capturing an image to share with the “inside” world has the power to change mindsets. Kira is certain she will travel to every corner of this beautiful planet and spark an interest in others to do the same. So the wanderer met the horse, and Adventure Haks was born—a platform to share their photography and tales of their journeys, with the goal to simply enjoy life and inspire others to get outside and explore.

KELSEY HUBER

JOHN GAISFORD

Kelsey grew up in northern Arizona exploring on horseback, and while she still loves riding, most of her exploring is done in vehicles now.

She has worked in the off-road industry since 2010 and started teaching driving and recovery in 2015 after meeting her husband, Tim, who is an off-road instructor. In early 2018, she and Tim quit their jobs and hit the road in their old Land Cruiser. They are currently traveling through Central and South America, pursuing their passion for remote areas that are off the beaten path, and creating content for their YouTube channel, Dirt Sunrise. Kelsey and Tim continue to teach driving and recovery whenever they have the time.

John spoke his first words while squashed between his parents in a 1948 CJ2A Willys Jeep and spent much of his formative years on family trips, camping on beaches in Mozambique, and learning life lessons from breakdowns in the Botswana bush. After completing a geology degree, he spent several years working as a remote exploration geologist in Africa. During these years, John practically lived out of a Land Cruiser 70Series pickup and developed a strong love affair with them. He has spent time hitchhiking in the USA and building aquaponic farms in Vietnam but is always inevitably pulled back to the yard of Willys Jeeps at his family home in Eshowe, South Africa.

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FIELD TESTED RYAN KEEGAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYAN KEEGAN AND LIVIA TRU

Ardisam Gazelle T4 Hub Tent The Gazelle’s pop-up hub design makes setup a snap.

Clockwise from top: In the harsh, primordial terrain of the Valley of the Gods in Utah, the T4’s stakes were put to the test. The fish hook attachments firmly secure the rainfly in harsh weather conditions without the use of the provided guylines. The spacious interior can easily house a queen air mattress with enough space for gear and standing movement.

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he Gazelle T4 Hub tent is a direct descendent of the Eskimo ice fishing shelter as well as the Barronett hunting blinds, both made by Ardisam. They have been producing seasonal outdoor products since 1960 and have upped their game with the Gazelle line of camping tents and shade awnings.

The Gazelle T4 is easily the fastest deployed ground tent I have used, clocking an easy 90-second setup. Once you select your spot, simply drive four stakes into the corners, pull the four hubs, then step inside and raise the cathedral-sized roof via the center vault. Once the tent is standing, you can add four more side stakes for additional stability in high winds. Should you choose to use the rainfly, affix it by lowering the ceiling and pushing in one hub. Once you attach the four poles of the fly, you can reverse the process and push out the hubs for a tight dressing.

The Gazelle tent stands 78 inches tall with an overall floor space of 61 square feet. When stowed, it weighs in around 30 pounds, measuring about 64 inches end to end. For transport, the system can easily be secured PROS to a roof rack or stored inside the Fast setup and breakdown vehicle with the rest of your gear.

High-quality construction Spacious with full standup The Gazelle is constructed using height a 50+ UV-rated material that has proven to be durable in the dozens CONS of days I have used it. The T4 emHeats quickly due to limited ventilation ploys high-quality YKK zippers Requires applicationon all door and window openings. specific stakes For ventilation, there are six tight(like most tents) ly woven mesh windows along with the ventilated mesh ceiling. There are, however, four more areas in the upper quadrants of the walls which Ardisam could have fitted with mesh windows. This would have increased air circulation in a tent that gets extremely warm when exposed to direct sunlight.

The deployment and sustainability of the T4 were tested in a multitude of terrain surfaces and weather conditions. In rocky soil, the stakes bent, and the aluminum tips were easily damaged. Thankfully, the company provided 12 stakes for their eight main anchor points, but I would recommend purchasing environment-specific stakes. Although there are guylines provided for the rainfly, they were never needed, even during inclement weather. The massive floor space of the Gazelle provided plenty of room for a twin air mattress as well as a table and chair to make it a home away from home on long excursions. The removable gear loft was a great space for storing or drying clothing items as well as hanging a field lantern for lighting. The six storage pockets provide ample storage space for everyday carry items. With its features and durability, the robust Gazelle T4 is a proven value. $340 | GAZELLETENTS.COM OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

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FIELD TESTED JAMES YOUNG

Garmin Instinct

The ideal GPS watch for the active overlander.

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ith cellular phones progressing from calling device to personal computer, the humble watch has also morphed from timekeeping caterpillar to fully fledged, personalised smartwatch butterfly.

Borrowing heavily from the much-lauded Garmin Fenix, the Instinct cannibalizes the best elements of its expensive cousin, ditching well over 50 percent of the price tag. That’s plenty of GPS smartwatch for the money.

The Instinct wears your heart on its sleeve, literally— beaming light onto your wrist to take a heart rate measurement. Its rugged looks also pull no punches with regard to intended use: chunky Casio G-Shock styling parades the MIL-STD 810G standard for shock, thermal, and water resistance. The latter two being between -4°F and 140°F, and a depth of 100 meters, which should cover you for the deepest of river crossings. The case will easily be a match for the mud, dust, sand, oil, sweat, and any knocks you care to throw its way. And the watch is QuickFit 22 compatible, opening an array of watch strap material and colour options.

Full GPS mode gives the battery a decent 16-hour lifespan (up to 40 hours in UltraTrac mode). In straight-up smartwatch mode with activity tracking and heart rate moni-

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toring, a charge-cable-free 14 days is cited. The Instinct can be charged while in use, keeping functionality when the battery starts to tire. But you will have to remove it from your wrist for the one hour it takes, as the charge point is on the rear of the case.

If you have used Garmin devices before, you are likely familiar with the sport mode basics, and all are represented and working as well as expected. What makes the Instinct perfect for our kind are the navigation and smartwatch aspects, both integrated so seamlessly that it’s hard to believe it was not marketed with an “overland” tag. As a keen athlete and endurance sports coach, I purchased the watch for running and hiking, not realizing how much the other features would play a role in my life on the road.

Navigation options include GPS/Glonass/Galileo coverage, a magnetic compass, elevation, course navigation (the ability to upload a course and follow it, great for running in foreign places). If you get lost What makes the Instinct just hit TracBack to follow your perfect for our kind path back to the start. Sunrise are the navigation and and sunset info helps make and smartwatch aspects, both break camp. A weather widget integrated so seamlessly and “storm alert” notification that it’s hard to believe it aids in deciding whether those was not marketed with clouds mean trouble. And if the an “overland” tag. worst happens, Garmin has baked ANT+ enabled inReach device control right into the watch.

You can send an SOS or satellite message straight from your wrist to contact GEOS 24/7 if you are set up with the service.

The union with your smartphone takes things a step further. Message notifications get (as an option) pinged to your watch. Playing music over your smartphone to a Bluetooth speaker vehicle stereo? Music controls are right on your wrist, leaving your hands free from blind phone rummaging.

This astoundingly well-featured device sits relatively low in the Garmin price range and is built for the active overlander. $300 | GARMIN.COM

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FIELD TESTED SCOTT BRADY

Four New Fridges Hit the Market A barrage of innovation descends on the 12-volt cooler scene.

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he first 12-volt fridge I ever owned was an Engel, and it was well used when I got it, having run for nearly a decade in my neighbor’s garage. Even under the abuse I gave it for another decade, it never stopped working, and went on to continue service with our CBDO, Brian McVickers (it still works). The key to the product is the Sawafuji swing motor, which has a low startup voltage and can operate safely at more extreme angles.

Engel’s Platinum model features a few key updates, including an entirely new temperature setting panel which provides additional information on the setting dial, and an LED cabinet temperature indicator. The LED display and additional modes also allow for selecting a battery protection range using the built-in voltage monitor. The cut-in and cut-out voltage can be set to Lo or Hi for either a 12- or 24-volt system. Another improvement is integrated voltage sensing, enabling auto-switching between 12/24 DC and 120 AC. Both plugs can remain connected, and the fridge will default to shore power when available.

ENGEL | PLATINUM MT45F THE CLASSIC OVERLANDER’S FRIDGE/FREEZER GETS A THOROUGH UPDATING.

PROS Legendary reliability Improved display and temperature setting Adjustable low-voltage disconnect Very low startup amperage works with factory outlets CONS Less insulation than some competitors No side opening option

$1,049 | ENGELCOOLERS.COM

DOMETIC | CFF 45 THIS INDUSTRY POWERHOUSE LAUNCHES A NEW SINGLE-COMPARTMENT OPTION.

PROS Clean, modern design Space efficient Excellent value

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CONS Compressor mounting limits suitability for prolonged vibration Less efficient compressor and insulation design

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n the last five years, we have watched Dometic take the overland fridge market by storm, offering high-quality units at affordable prices. Their newest 12-volt cooler is part of the CFF line, combining the space advantage of a single compartment with a lower price point achieved with a different compressor and construction methods.

There are a few features that stand out in the new cooler, including the clean design and dual-sided lid. Being a singlecompartment fridge, it maximizes interior capacity for the type of food most overlanders travel with: drinks and refrigerated items. Frozen foods can be placed at the very bottom, which will keep them cold longer. While there is not a dedicated freezer compartment, the temperature can be set as a freezer only. The CFF is more compact and lighter than other options, but this comes at the price of insulation efficiency. The compressor is also a slightly less efficient Secop model, and not as tolerant of extreme angles and vibrations as the Waeco compressor in Dometic’s CFX models. $860 | DOMETIC.COM

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FIELD TESTED SCOTT BRADY

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RB has always been about durability and innovation, from their world-renowned bull bars to their successful fridge line. The new Classic series has several notable upgrades, including an advanced electronic control system, where most features are available on the dimmable backlit touchpad or via a mobile app. As a thoughtful touch, the fridge display also shows 12-volt input power to gauge the depth of draw. The exterior is a powder-coated steel shell with a plastic interior casing. The drain plug is appreciated.

What is most interesting are the fully connected features, which pair to a smartphone, tablet, or ARB Linx system via an optional transmitter. This allows monitoring of fridge temperature, power draw, battery protection, display brightness, and preset temperature settings. It will even warn you if the lid is left open. Available accessories include a fridge mount and an all-new heavy-duty transit bag which improves insulation; there are several pockets and even a bottle opener. The colors on the fridge have changed to a desert tan with dark gray accents, and the cover is an attractive gray canvas.

ARB | CLASSIC SERIES II 50QT INTRODUCING THE FIRST FULLY CONNECTED FRIDGE/FREEZER.

PROS Attractive new colors and cover Fully connected via Bluetooth Three-stage battery protection system CONS Locking latch can be temperamental for new users Lid is only front opening

$1,032 | ARBUSA.COM

NATIONAL LUNA | 52L LEGACY THE PERFORMANCE LEADER STEPS UP THEIR GAME—AGAIN.

PROS Stainless steel construction Eight-year compressor warranty Class-leading efficiency Clever lid design allows multiple orientations

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CONS Rear-mounted LED display position may be difficult to see or access Start-up amperage may exceed some factory outlets

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imes are changing in the global economy with tariffs and other pressures driving up costs or making supply chain management more challenging. As a result, and due to new competition in the premium fridge space, National Luna has reinvented its premium fridge/freezer with new technology, better insulation, and a proprietary off-pavement compressor.

The new specification compressor is specifically designed for the rigors of backcountry travel, while also lowering 12-volt power consumption and providing an operating voltage range of 9.6 volts to 31.5 volts. The AC/DC converter received some improvement as well, with auto-switching for both 120-volt and 240-volt shore power, although buyers should note the start-up amperage of over 10 amps to ensure the socket and wiring gauge is appropriate. In addition, the Legacy line includes better insulation, which lowers the overall energy consumption, and a new eight-year warranty on the compressor. One of the unique attributes of the National Luna is their attention toward total insulation coverage, thickness, and R-value (which is also why they win so many tests). All of their fridges are manufactured in South Africa and are constructed from stainless steel and other premium materials. $995 | EQUIPT1.COM

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FIELD TESTED BRYON BASS

Agile Offroad 3.5-ton Scissor Jack with Axle and Frame Adaptor A winning combination that works well with various makes and models.

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arious common jacking systems can work for changing tires off highway.

Hi-Lifts are manual, demand solid jack points on the vehicle (steel frame-mounted rock sliders and bumpers), can be very hazardous in unfamiliar hands, and if you do use it to swap a tire, you’ll also need a jack stand. Bottle jacks are simple and have small ground and vehicle contact patches. Afield, they can leak hydraulic fluid and often require supplemental stability and/or lift (e.g., plastic RV levelers, pieces of lumber) or excavation to insert due to their height. Scissor jacks slide in low, provide load distribution, and are mechanically efficient.

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They’re more stable than bottles and much safer than a Hi-Lift.

Agile Offroad now offers a military-issue scissor jack, coupled to their frame and axle adaptor. The jack, with its wide 12 x 7.5-inch base and 3.5-ton rating, is intended for changing Humvee tires. It’s manually cranked, slots into tight nooks, and provides about 18 inches of lift. The handle extensions connect to a heavy-duty, rubberized ratchet.

The AO frame and rail adaptor, originally made for Baja racing efforts, has a flat side for frame rails and the other curved for axles. I tested two versions, and they performed well

with varied makes and models. The current adaptor is machined from 6061-T6 billet aluminum, and black anodized. The ratings make this jack+adaptor combination especially suited for Mercedes Sprinters, Ford E-Series vans, and similarly weighted rigs. The jack and components along with the AO adaptor come in a canvas bag. $340/JACK PLUS AXLE AND FRAME ADAPTOR, $90/ADAPTOR ONLY | AGILEOFFROAD.COM

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OVERLAND NEWS SCOTT BRADY AND BRYON BASS

Two Wheels South: A Motorcycle Adventure from Brooklyn to Ushuaia

The Road Chose Me: Two years and 40,000 miles from Alaska to Argentina

By Matias Corea

By Dan Grec

Review by Scott Brady ISBN 978-3899559767

Review by Scott Brady ISBN 978-0995198913

Review by Bryon Bass ISBN 978-0956678317

This hardcover volume is a beautiful journey of adventure motorcycling with a thoughtful balance of art, design, and constructive insight.

In particular, I appreciated the sections on preparation, with honest consideration toward lower cost and proven products. Its 272 pages are perfect bound with a thick cover and quality paper; the images print beautifully and will look at home in any adventurer’s library.

Dan is one of the most notable overland travelers of the 21st Century, having circumnavigated most of the South American and African continents. In this 266-page volume, he focuses on his 40,000-mile journey around South America, visiting 16 countries along the way.

Join Landy, a 1956 Series 1 Land Rover, and Fender, a 1999 Defender 90, as they go on various adventures. With dogs riding shotgun and owners at the wheel, these iconic trucks conquer all sorts of tasks in this wonderfully illustrated series. Eloquently written with accurate, technical prose sprinkled about, these books easily engage the reader. Intended for children, adults will flip through the pages long after the kids are asleep.

The book chronicles Matias’ and his friend Joel’s journey from New York to Ushuaia on air-cooled BMW GS Paris Dakar models and does a good job of avoiding the temptation most travelers have of making their books a play-by-play account of their travels. Throughout the pages are big, beautiful images and large maps showing their routes and points of interest along the way. The sections on their numerous breakdowns and repairs illuminate necessary challenges to what was a transformative journey.

Throughout the book, Dan imparts a practical and open tone, touching on real subjects like loneliness while traveling solo, corruption, and the real cost of first-world debt. In general, the book follows his path south, but mostly avoids the travelogue theme by interjecting random insights with chapters on his Jeep, or by the addition of a particularly funny piece, such as catching fish with 120-volt electricity. Most importantly, this book is honest and positive about both travel and the people Dan interacted with, and that alone makes it worth the read.

Landy and Friends Book Series

By Veronica Lamond

Adventures include Landy getting invited to Solihull for his 60th birthday where he is greeted by none other than Hue, the first Land Rover ever built (Landy also gets an oil leak repaired). Fender helps rescue Molly the Dog from a cliff. Dan and Jack return to the harbor after fishing and must use the Hi-Lift to fix Fender’s flat before hustling the catch to Katy’s restaurant. With escapades fit for the venerable Land Rover marque, this eight-book series is a fantastic introduction for aspiring overlanders.

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Deep Ozarks A wet and wild springtime traverse in search of the perfect route—and maybe Bigfoot.

By Susan Dragoo

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hite caps, like the peaks on my great-grandmother’s meringue, fill the road ahead. The waters are high and raging at a usually benign stream crossing deep in the Ozarks. It is late April and a wet and stormy spring in Arkansas. We had another downpour last night, the rain is still falling, and we’re in a bit of a pickle.

Clearly, we did not choose an easy time to traverse the Ozarks. We’ve already deviated three times from our original route because of high water, beginning at the Woolum Ford on the Buffalo National River, a common crossing point for vehicles, yet far too deep to attempt this morning. Any course of travel through this green expanse of knobs, hollows, and usually clear flowing streams is okay with me, as long as it’s mostly off pavement. But for Tod Dudley, who designed our route, each turnaround increases his frustration.

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only 200 feet to our right. Tod walks ahead to take a closer look.

He steps gingerly along the roadside turned creek bank and takes a gander, returning with the obvious conclusion. “I hate to have to turn us around again, but there’s no way we’re going through that.”

Such challenges are not unexpected as we travel east to west across the Boston Mountains, the highest and some of the most rugged of the Ozarks. Some say the mountains’ moniker comes from a French phrase for rough road, although in the American West, the term “a Boston” referred to any difficult task. In either case, it fits. The name Ozark also has French origins, coming from “Aux Arc,” possibly a reference to the top-most bend in the Arkansas River, or an abbreviation of “Aux Arkansas,” referring to Arkansas Post, an early settlement. French explorers, hunters, and traders of the late 1600s and 1700s left an indelible mark on the place names of the region.

For my husband, Bill, and me, both native Oklahomans, the Ozarks are a familiar next-door neighbor. Though mountains for all practical purposes, the region is geologically a deeply

dissected plateau covering northwest Arkansas and much of southern Missouri; its “foothills” even stretch into eastern Oklahoma and Kansas. It’s the largest highlands region between the Appalachians and the Rockies, yet elevations stay below 2,600 feet. Even at that, the steep and rocky ups and downs created by the dissections, or hollows (“hollers” in local dialect), make for often-difficult travel which is, of course, the attraction for overlanders. Countless streams flow through those hollows, feeding several sizeable rivers. Traversing the core of the Ozarks requires negotiating this rugged terrain on a network of unpaved county roads, forest roads, and unnamed and unmaintained trails canopied by the oak, hickory, and shortleaf pine of the Ozark National Forest.

We’ve motorcycled here extensively, and I’ve backpacked the 165-mile corridor of the Ozark Highlands Trail. Walking in those deep woods, along the rocky ridges and through the verdant hollows, I wove through a web of remote forest roads and abandoned pioneer pathways. They looked traversable on four wheels, and I wondered about connecting them as a throughtrail for overlanding. To satisfy my curiosity, we contacted Randy Putt, founder of Natural State Overland (NSO), a group that showcases Arkansas as an overland destination “for those looking for raw beauty” (echoing Arkansas’ “Natural State” nickname). They also promote Tread Lightly principles and work with the US Forest Service to help keep trails open. Since its inception in 2017, NSO has grown to more than 3,000 members.

Randy is happy to help us with a route and offers to join us when we run it. He lives on the western edge of the Ozarks in Cave Springs and has been exploring this region since 2007. We plan to meet at Woolum Campground on the Buffalo National River a few days before NSO’s Bonfire Rendezvous, a spring gathering meant to keep enthusiasm high between occasions of the group’s annual fall Rendezvous in the Ozarks. Joining Randy are our trail guide, Tod Dudley of Little Rock, and Brad Brazell, from Oxford, Mississippi. Bill and I are accompanied by our friend and fellow Oklahoman, Mark Driscoll.

On Wednesday evening before the Saturday bonfire, we meet Randy at the Woolum Ford, our intended starting point for the planned 187-mile, three-day traverse. After several weeks of rainy weather, it is too deep and swift to cross, even for the NSO guys, all of whom have snorkels. Our Oklahoma contingent does not. With more rain in the forecast, we resign ourselves to a reroute.

A campsite on the river bank is big enough for all five vehicles, and we fill it up with three Toyota Tacomas (ours, Mark’s, and Brad’s), Tod’s 80 Series Land Cruiser, and Randy’s Jeep JK Unlimited. While I cook dinner under an awning, Bill builds a fire and keeps it roaring in spite of the showers. The downpour finally lightens to a drizzle, and we emerge from under cover and gather around the flames. We talk about the reroute, and the deep water crossings these guys have done. They’ve been traveling off pavement together for a decade. “We’ve never drowned out anyone, yet,” says Tod, with a grin.

In the dark of night, we notice a light high on the bluff on the opposite bank of the river. Its source is mysterious; there’s no house up there. Curious (there’s always the possibility of Big-

foot) but not overly concerned, we sleep well to the sound of rain on canvas and flowing water a few feet away.

DAY ONE—TURN, TURN, TURN

At dawn, heavy clouds hang low over green mountain tops.

Rafts of debris rush downstream, testifying to the massive hydraulic power moving through the tributaries of the Buffalo.

Tod conjectures over breakfast that the light on the cliff was a hiker, and I realize that the Buffalo River Trail runs exactly there. What an obvious answer to a silly mystery. Besides, would Bigfoot build a fire?

On our way to Highway 65, we stop to buy firewood at a house where it is sold on the honor system. No price is posted, and a coffee can, labeled “Money Hear [sic],” sits atop the woodpile to collect payments. A pack of What looks like endless friendly dogs greets us, and Bill takes water on the road forces the time to reward them with a good us to reverse. In only a scratching behind the ears. mile and a half, we We attempt a detour to reach the are stymied again by opposite bank of the Woolum Ford Richland Creek, its to officially start the trail, which will flow deep and swift. take us southwest to White Rock Mountain. After a short jaunt on the highway, we are back on dirt, driving through Snowball, a once-thriving community founded in the 19th century. It’s now only a Masonic hall, a Baptist church, and a few homes. Snowball’s tiny population experienced a brief resurgence in the 1970s during the “back to the land” movement, when college-educated young people moved to the Ozarks to farm, seeking to return to the basics of life. That era is long gone but had a lasting impact on Arkansas’ perspective on caring for its natural resources. I think about the cultural stereotype of the Ozarks, the “hillbilly” image, typified in my lifetime by The Beverly Hillbillies, of which I am quite fond. As an “Okie,” a native of a state with some negative cultural stereotypes of its own, and with my ancestral roots in Arkansas, I can appreciate the efforts of people like Randy to illuminate the best of the Ozarks.

West of Snowball, we are enveloped in a blanket of fog as we ascend Point Peter Mountain, then drop into the Richland Creek Basin and turn north to try for the Woolum Ford. But what looks like endless water on the road forces us to reverse. In only a mile and a half, we are stymied again by Richland Creek, its flow deep and swift. Living in these woods would require a solid grasp of topography and route options—and a lot of gas in the tank.

Thankfully, Tod has plenty of reroutes in his back pocket, so we climb back over the mountain to Snowball and take a paved road to the turnoff for Falling Water Road. The rain continues.

In the downpour, we stop at Falling Water Falls, which has become a muddy deluge, then are back on course through a canopied forest road.

Opposite: Falling Water Falls roars as ceaseless rain empowers its muddy cascade. Opening spread: The trail becomes a tributary, feeding Mark’s Tacoma and a flow of liquid silt into a clear mountain stream.

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We expected to reach Boyd Cemetery by midday, but the white water at Cedar Creek intercedes. After Tod pronounces another crossing impassable, we take a nearby cutoff, a narrow two-track through thick vegetation. I’m surprised to see it has a Forest Road designation, 93081C. We make it through and stop for lunch at Fireball Campground, so named because a meteor once set the night sky afire here.

Carrying on, we enter an area scarred by logging, then pick up another narrow two-track. Again our progress is foiled, this time by a fallen pine, which has obliterated the path. Bill wants to move the obstruction with winches and a chainsaw. But the group, concerned about the time Pre-dawn sunlight filters it will require, wins the day, and we through the spring-green turn around again. leaves, lighting up the Another stream crossing, this blooming dogwoods. time narrow and deep, rears its head.

Tod dips his proverbial toe in the water, his Land Cruiser connected by a strap to Brad’s Tacoma in case retrieval is necessary.

Within a few feet, he drops steeply off to the depth of his front tire. “That’s not the bottom,” he says, and reverses to dry land.

The guys with snorkels might make it through, but we probably wouldn’t. It’s time to call it a day on this segment, and we detour to Victor Road, head west, then jump on the pavement for a few miles, bypassing the inundated trails we would otherwise have attempted. A one-lane 1931 steel truss bridge takes us across Big Piney Creek. Then we are on dirt again and headed to Car Wash Falls, where the cascade from a roadside bluff splatters down on passing vehicles. Everyone takes a playful turn in the shower, and Tod discovers that his sunroof still leaks. We continue into the highlands and spend a peaceful night camped on Big Piney. The rain has finally stopped, and the now-familiar sound of rushing water eases us into sleep with high hopes for tomorrow.

DAY TWO—RUTS AND LEDGES

Pre-dawn sunlight filters through the spring-green leaves, lighting up the blooming dogwoods. The break in the weather renews our optimism about finishing the trail, although completing it in three days now seems unlikely. We return to the original route, stopping at Haw Creek Falls and the historic Union School, built in 1929. Unoccupied, it is maintained in perfect condition and kept open for visitors to enjoy. I inspect and appreciate its clean outhouse.

Soon we encounter The Ledges, a feature on the edge of Ozone Mountain that is just what it sounds like, a series of rock ledges up a steep hill. With good spotting by Tod and Bill, everyone makes it through, and soon we’re negotiating some tight, deep ruts. I hear a crunch as Bill reverses to reset on a large rock. Water runs out from the Tacoma’s rear bumper, which is plumbed from the water tank in the truck bed to a spigot on the right rear. We stop so that Bill can execute a repair with Brad’s help.

“The Ozarks are not kind to trucks,” says Tod. Indeed, this route is much more challenging for the Tacomas than for Randy’s Jeep, with its steeper approach and departure angles.

As we get back in the truck, Bill and I find ticks crawling on our skin. It’s nearly May and almost too late in the year for

Dusty trails become rivers as we trudge onward through the rain. Opposite, clockwise from top right: An aging relic stands at a crossroads in Snowball. Tod’s 80-Series Land Cruiser makes good use of Car Wash Falls. Friendly dogs make sure Bill gives their ears a scratching at a stop for firewood. Tod wades his Land Cruiser into questionable and turbulent waters. A spot of sunshine illuminates the blooming dogwoods and highlights Randy’s deep water crossing.

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Clockwise from top left: It’s no wonder the NSO team fits snorkels to their vehicles. Lush canopy, freshly washed, lures us onward. The Oark General Store has operated continuously since 1890. A cheery respite from the rain, the setting sun winks through the foliage. Our caravan enjoys an easy crossing for a change. Bill and Brad make a field repair to the water spigot on Bill’s rear bumper.

cavorting in these woods without consequence. Poison ivy is popping up everywhere, and gnats probe the eyes. But the evenings are cool and daytime temperatures mild, so except for a few pests, it’s tolerable a bit longer. Prime time for The timing is right for an overlanding the Ozarks is late October early dinner at the Oark to early April, with fall foliage being a big General Store, a way attraction. Even winter, usually mild, is a station continually decent time to travel here; summer is best operating since 1890 avoided in these humid depths. and an iconic stop for We make one more stop at the midtravelers in the Ozarks.

1800s Spurgeon Warren Homestead with There’s one gas pump, its log cabin and barn, open for respect87-octane, and you ful exploring. Like the Union School, it pay inside. is maintained in perfect condition for the public’s pleasure by the property owner. In a less remote area, these relics would likely be vandalized. Apparently, those who live and travel here take pride in preserving history. It’s an encouraging attitude.

With all the detours, we’ve already driven 180 miles but completed only about two-thirds of our route. And, with gas mileage in low range nearing the single digits, it’s time for a gas stop for those without auxiliary fuel. We carry double the Tacoma’s normal capacity and plan to top off anyway as a precaution. Soon we’re on an improved dirt road, then Highway 215, which runs along the Mulberry River. The timing is right for an early dinner at the Oark General Store, a way station continually operating since 1890 and an iconic stop for travelers in the Ozarks. There’s one gas pump, 87-octane, and you pay inside. Bill adds a Dragoo Adventure Rider Training sticker to the dozens left by travelers on the front door. We order hamburgers and onion rings, which live up to their reputation as some of the best around. The homemade pies, peanut butter for me and cherry à la mode for Bill, take the cake.

With full tanks, we head to a campsite on Morgan Mountain Road, which has plenty of room and a great view but also cell service, allowing everyone to catch up with the outside world after two days off the grid. After dinner, while the others sit around the campfire talking about Motor Vehicle Use Maps late into the night, Bill and I retire to our rooftop tent for Netflix on the iPad. Ah, technology in the “wilderness.”

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DAY THREE—TIGHT AND MUDDY

In the morning, we backtrack and pick up the narrow passage again at Oark, making lazy, westward arcs through the forest. The road climbs, smooth and canopied, to the top of a ridge, and soon Brad urges us to stop near a rocky outcrop. We walk to its edge and are blessed by the sight of a beautiful ravine with cascades of clear water, quite a departure from the first days’ muddy flows. The trail constricts into an entanglement of stony undulations, then a deep abyss of sticky red muck. Most extrude themselves from the mud, but then we hear Randy on the radio, “Hold on, this thing ate me up.”

“I’m coming, Randy,” responds Brad. The guys are excited about the prospect of winching the Jeep. Tod is ecstatic because it’s the first time in 10 years that Randy has gotten stuck, whereas he hasn’t been quite so lucky. “It’s The trail constricts into an like we just saw Bigfoot,” says Tod, entanglement of stony practically aglow. undulations, then a deep After extracting Randy’s Jeep, abyss of sticky red muck. we take on some exceptionally tight trails. Branches play a tune on our antenna, and vines grab at the rearview mirrors. Eventually, we arrive at a deep chute with ledges that require intense spotting and strategic road building to avoid tearing off bumpers. With a bit of engineering, everyone gets through without significant damage. For Randy, in his Jeep, it’s no big thing, but I dub it the Darién Gap of the Ozarks for the length of time it takes to get all the trucks through.

We traverse an area where logging appears imminent: the road widened, and trees marked with orange and blue paint. It is not a happy thing for our NSO friends, who mourn the loss of their tight trails and tall hardwoods. Mid-afternoon, Randy, Brad, and Mark split off, heading to Byrd’s Adventure Center on the Mulberry River to prepare for the evening’s Bonfire Rendezvous. Bill and I continue with Tod, stopping at the remains of another old homestead, this one only a chimney, foundation, and the ghosts of a bygone era.

Then, late in the afternoon, we head to the Bonfire ourselves.

Driving into the camping area, we enter a land of rooftop tents and adventure trailers, where about 200 overlanders are gathered for the event. We take advantage of the facilities at Byrd’s for a welcome refresher, our first showers in three days. Bill and I retire early that evening, but in typical social form, the campfire carousing goes on into the wee hours. Always the Boy Scout, Bill is prepared with noise-canceling headphones.

We jokingly call this section the Ozarks’ Darién Gap. Opposite, clockwise from top right: This dry-stack chimney stands as an iconic reminder of Ozark pioneers. Fast and light, our Tacoma GS and EeziAwn tent proved ideal for the Ozark traverse. To Randy’s chagrin, even his mighty JK succumbed to the mud. Homemade pies are among the big attractions at The Oark General Store. Roads dry quickly in the Ozarks, even after days of deluge.

DAY FOUR—ROCKS AND BIGFOOT

We awake to a gorgeous morning just before the sun crests the mountains into a cloudless sky. Bill and I depart early to finish the last 40 miles. Tod says the route is technical, and we should take someone else along, but we light out on our own, beginning outside of Byrd’s, crossing Morgan Mountain before descending into Spy Rock Hollow. The streams today are a milky turquoise, almost opalescent. Bill sluices the truck back and forth in a shallow crossing, redepositing some of the soil from whence it came.

Today’s trail is tight, with steep switchbacks in rocky red soil.

It is perhaps the most technical of the route, and Bill’s favorite

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segment so far. As we enter a bog on a spur to two waterfalls, I scout ahead on foot. Returning to the truck, I notice a gigantic footprint in the mud. Right there in the middle of nowhere, is a single, huge, size 17 footprint with deep claw marks before the toes. It’s definitely the Sasquatch, what else could it be? Bill says it’s a bear; I disagree. There is, however, a bear print right next to it, so who knows?

Back on the main route, we continue to ascend on an even narrower, deeply rutted trail. At one point, I get out to take a photo and notice the right rear tire looks low. Very low. Flat, actually. We pull off in a bare spot 20 feet ahead. The valve stem is broken off, and the rim badly scored. Unfortunately, the biometric lock securing the Hi-Lift jack has run down. A lock that you have to recharge?

What were we thinking? We use the factory jack, a precarious arrangement on the lifted Tacoma, but it works.

Though a bit more rocky terrain remains, we are quickly on improved road that takes us up to Fly Gap. At this point, the depths of the Ozarks are behind us. Our route to White Rock Mountain would take us on more interesting trails, but we find one of them gated and must reroute on graded dirt.

I prize White Rock Mountain for its overlook, a panoramic pinnacle at 2,000 feet, beautiful and breathtaking on its own accord. But since the 1930s, a stone pavilion built by the Civilian Conservation Corps has graced the southwesterly lookout, a perfect frame for the sunset. Some might prefer their nature raw; for me, man’s handiwork adds to this spot’s appeal.

We’re too early for sunset today, and while Bill characteristically naps in the truck, I walk to the overlook. The names of nearby towns—Fort Smith, Clarksville—are inscribed into the stone, along with directional arrows pointing their way. I buy an ice cream at the caretaker’s cottage and enjoy it at a picnic table.

It all seems so civilized compared with where we’ve been the past few days. I savor these moments at the end of the trail.

Then, as if emerging from a time warp, we are south of White Rock and driving west at 70 mph on Interstate 40. A mile marker tells me we’re just 20 miles from the Oklahoma border, emphasizing the suddenness of the transition.

Bill wants to go back and run the route in the fall when the weather is not so wet, and we can pick up the segments we missed. We probably will, though I consider this trip a success.

In some respects, April wasn’t the best time to go, but it was certainly an adventure and fascinating to see the Ozarks dressed in deep green and the streams at flood stage. And as we traversed those hollows and ridges, I saw the familiar white blazes of the Ozark Highlands Trail, looking with satisfaction on the places I’d hiked, and knowing my question had been answered.

A faint inscription on White Rock Mountain points to Clarksville, 30 miles away. Opposite: The ghosts of pioneers still linger among these well-worn roads.

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Overland Truck of the Year We evaluate the best midsize pickups for vehicle-based adventure travel.

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By Scott Brady

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Clockwise from top: The Bison is exceptional on the trail, providing driver confidence in technical terrain. We measured suspension articulation, and low-/high-speed vehicle dynamics with each platform, revealing not only compliance but balance and limit handling as well. While the Gladiator has the longest wheelbase in the test, it is still a Jeep at heart, and even the Sport model performed above our expectations on the trail. Opening page: Throughout the last 12 months, we have tested each of the models in extensive offpavement conditions ranging from the deserts of California to off-road test tracks in Texas.

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ntil a few years ago, there were only two suitable choices for a midsize overland pickup: the Nissan Frontier and Toyota Tacoma. That dearth of options resulted in limited innovation and notable apathy among both the OEMs and aftermarket. However, that all changed when Chevrolet, Ford, and finally, Jeep all released trucks into the market. As vehiclebased travelers, this is an exciting time with choices that include everything from diesel motors to solid axles to front and rear differential locks.

Overland Journal’s first project vehicle was a 2004 Toyota Tacoma, the revolutionary first-generation model that included a factory rear locking differential and the desirable TRD package. They sold in incredible volume and redefined the industry by besting all of the domestic offerings. In 2009, Toyota sold 111,000 units in North America, and the nearest suitable competitor was not even a third that number. To demonstrate the incredible growth of the segment, for 2018, the Tacoma was 245,000 units and

the Colorado an impressive 134,000 units.

Even the aging Frontier continued with strong sales at nearly 80,000 units. The crop of options is growing quickly, and now with the new Ranger and Gladiator, the market is more competitive than ever.

The growth of the segment and the general popularity of midsize trucks for overland travel inspired our team to conduct this comprehensive review, logging thousands of evaluation miles and nearly 100 hours behind the wheel. This is our first Overland Truck of the Year test, which will be an ongoing series featuring all of the popular ranges, including full-size truck, SUV, and adventure motorcycles.

CONSIDERATIONS The most significant advantage of purchasing a truck is payload, but that benefit begins to blur with the midsize options, as many offerings have marginal improvements in payload over established SUVs. For example, the 4Runner’s payload can range between 1,495 and 1,700 pounds, which is

more than some units tested here. In that regard, it is important to consider a truck because we need a truck—for hauling motorcycles, home improvement duties, moving, and maybe even the occasional hayride. A truck can also afford more overall space for the payload than a wagon, and some people just enjoy owning and driving them because of their simplicity and utility. But most importantly, a truck allows for the installation of a true camper, like a Four Wheel unit, or a wedge-style camper. This is why payload remains critical in assessment.

For this evaluation and general considerations around purchasing a midsize truck, the following criteria (in the order listed) are the foundation for ranking vehicles in the segment.

RELIABILITY For

remote, vehicle-based adventure travel, we need to be able to trust our vehicle to start and operate reliably in the field. All of the capability and capacity in the world does little for us if the vehicle stops running. This attribute will be most important for those traveling the farthest afield and internationally, and it will be somewhat less critical for overlanders that tend to travel close to home with a dealer infrastructure in place.

PAYLOAD One of the primary reasons to pur-

chase a truck is payload, which allows for the reserve capacity to fit aftermarket accessories, campers, racks, and supplies. This may be as simple as weeks of fuel and water for a big desert crossing or travel deep in the jungle. Vehicles that are over GVWR can be subject to fines or even significant liability in an accident.

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ditions: the construction of the frame, rating of the axles, amount and strength of the skid plating, and so forth. While a Subaru Outback is extremely reliable, it will not endure backcountry abuse in the same way a Land Cruiser 79-Series pickup will.

CAPABILITY Overland travel can involve changing weather (snow and mud), washedout roads, sand dunes, and rocky trails. Having reserve capability allows the driver to explore with confidence and reduce the chance of getting stuck or making it to that remote waterfall. Capability is a reflection of ground clearance, articulation, traction (i.e., lockers, advanced traction control), and even higher speed impact performance.

RANGE/ECONOMY As travelers, we often ex-

plore remote locations or drive long distances between refueling. The fuel economy of the drivetrain and the size of the fuel tank both contribute to the available range. Fuel economy can also lower operating costs, which can allow for longer trips on a given budget.

RELIABILITY RANKING For

this test to have merit, both the evaluator and the reader must cast away as many biases as possible, particularly the belief that reliability rankings are a constant. It seems that any new offering is subject to the ad nauseum commentary of “Fix or repair daily” or “You better bring a mechanic along.” Reality proves to be different than those biases, with all manufacturers improving remarkably in this capacity for the past decade. For example, the overall winner in the 2019 J.D. Power Dependability Study for three-year reliability is the Porsche 911. Lexus remains the most reliable brand for 2019, but Toyota slipped to the third position behind Porsche, with Chevrolet in fourth, at only a 6-percent difference behind Toyota. Chevrolet is ranked higher as a brand than Nissan, Ford, and Jeep.

The story gets even more compelling when we look at the reported problems per 100 vehicles (PP100) within the first three years of ownership for the midsize truck segment. Per the 2019 J.D. Power Vehicle Dependability Study (VDS) rankings, the top three are #1 Nissan Frontier, #2 Chevrolet Colorado, #3 GMC Canyon.

The Tacoma is now one of several very reliable offerings, as well as the Frontier and Colorado. I know, that statement is tantamount to heresy, and the pitchfork-wielding, khaki-clad mobs will be at my office door at any moment. Please don’t misunderstand, as I am a true believer in Toyota’s reliability, having explored much of the globe (and both Polar regions) with the marque. But for the sake of this evaluation, reliability will be weighted as it is reported; and at least when it comes to the Frontier, Colorado, and Tacoma, it is a dead heat.

TESTING Over the course of nearly a year, we tested all of the new midsize truck models, including the Bison, Frontier, Gladiator, Ranger, and Tacoma. We also evaluated the Honda Ridgeline, which is a highly respected crossover pickup. Its lack of low range excluded it from the primary test, so we reported on it in the included sidebar. The testing involved driving each of the units through our test course, which includes highway, curving mountain roads, high-speed corrugated and rutted dirt, crossed-axle obstacles, steep climbs, and rock ledges. The test course provides a baseline of performance that was expanded upon during the individual overland trips. We crossed the Altar Desert with the Bison, drove to New Mexico in the Ranger, crossed the Mojave Desert with the Frontier, explored Sedona and the Mogollon Rim with the Gladiator, and took several Gen III Tacomas on trips in four states (we also own a Gen III Tacoma project vehicle).

Our evaluation reports include 28 offhighway and 24 on-road criteria that are reported from 1-5, with 1 being the worst result ever tested for any vehicle, and 5 being the best result ever tested for any vehicle.

Because of this, the bulk of the outcomes are reflected from 1.5-4.5. Not all criteria are weighted equally, as payload is significantly more important than the comfort of the thigh bolster. While much of the testing is subjective, we have worked with Joe Bacal (professional driver and Toyota off-road evaluation engineer) for nearly a decade to refine our testing methodologies and repeatability. There are also objective measurements, such as ground clearance, MPG, and payload. All of these elements combined produce the results shared here.

HONDA RIDGELINE PAYLOAD 1,451 POUNDS | $35,290

The models showcased in this test are not the only midsize trucks in North America. The Ridgeline is highly respected for its overall reliability, safety, and road performance. It was only excluded from the main test due to a lack of low range, but we did secure a unit for evaluation. Some travelers do not need or desire low range and would prefer to gain the handling, efficiency, and reduced cost of an AWD. The Ridgeline comes equipped with a 280-horsepower V6 that achieved an average fuel economy of 20 mpg in our testing, and 26 mpg on a long drive to California.

Off the highway, the Ridgeline did surprise me in a positive way, but it does have limits. It completed nearly all of our test loop, although with tire-lifting (and spinning) flair. The traction control is multi-mode, but on the dry dirt of our track, it worked best in auto mode. While the lack of low range is understandable, it needs a center differential lock button for any prolonged use on the trail; this would reduce tire spin and heat generated within the AWD system and transmission. The payload of 1,451 pounds is commendable, and it is fun to drive on any curve-filled surface.

HONDA.COM

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CHEVROLET | COLORADO BISON DIESEL PAYLOAD 1,493 POUNDS | $52,845

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hevrolet is one of the oldest brands in the test, started by Louis Chevrolet and GM founder William Durant in 1911. For over 100 years, Chevy has been one of the best-selling automotive brands in the world, with sales in 140 countries totaling over four million units. Chevrolet has always placed emphasis on truck production, and the Silverado is one of the most popular trucks in America. In recent years, their truck marketing and engineering teams have increased the emphasis on the off-highway performance of their trucks with the launch of the ZR2, then AT4, and most recently, the Colorado Bison. The quality of the Colorado has also reached notable levels, coming in second place behind Nissan for defects per 100 vehicles.

The reliability advancements and now the Bison package with a diesel motor have literally vaulted the Colorado to the lead in the midsize overland truck market.

My initial tests of the Bison were so favorable that I decided to invite Joe Bacal to test the vehicle with me. Joe was a Toyota offpavement vehicle test driver and multi-time winner of the Baja 500 and 1000. After a day of testing, Joe mirrored my results with the following summary: “effortless on the trail and confidence-inspiring at high speeds in the dirt.” The list of included features is precisely on target to an overland traveler, and GM even proclaimed the Bison as their first “overland offering.” Most important is the available diesel motor, a 2.8-liter Duramax that produces 369 pound-feet of torque and returns an average economy (in our testing) of 22 mpg, which includes a mix of highway, city, and trail driving. Longer highway trips yielded results as high as 30 mpg. The front bumper is designed and built by AEV and has a provision for a winch tray. The rear bumper is also steel with integrated tubular quarter panel protection. From there, it just gets better with boron steel skid plates, front and rear locking differentials, and the Multimatic Dynamic Suspension. The effectiveOVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

ness of Multimatic dampers cannot be overstated and results in the best performing vehicle in the class at all speeds.

What makes the Colorado Bison perform so notably is the sum of its parts.

While our summary of the Bison appears glowing, how many of us could have imagined even five years ago that a midsize truck could be purchased with a diesel motor, front and rear lockers, factory winch bumper, rock sliders, and boron steel skid plates?

This is not to say that the vehicle does not have a few minor deficiencies, like the very pedestrian interior, and mismatched throttle/brake pedal heights, but other than that, we would just be nitpicking. Of course, all of this high-performance hardware and a diesel drivetrain comes at a cost, the package pushing well above $50,000. But for that investment, you can buy one of the most exceptional overland trucks ever sold in North America.

CHEVROLET.COM

PROS Available diesel drivetrain Class-leading dirt road performance Ideal balance of capability, capacity, reliability, and durability CONS Interior lags behind the overall quality and appeal of the platform Mismatched throttle/brake pedal heights Bumper design (cooling) and spring rates downrate towing from 7,700 to 5,000 pounds

FORD | RANGER XLT FX4 PAYLOAD 1,560 POUNDS | $35,625

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ord was founded in 1903 and is the second-largest domestic automaker behind GM. As a company, they have led truck sales for decades, and have invested heavily in recent years across their entire truck line, from the wildly successful Raptor to the Ranger we tested here. Part of that investment is a shift toward high output: high fuel economy engines paired with up to 10-speed transmissions. In the case of the Ranger, the 2.3-liter 4-cylinder engine produces an astonishing 270 horsepower and 310 pound-feet of torque, more than 14 times the output of Henry Ford’s first Model TT pickup.

From the moment I started driving the Ranger, it was clear that it is unlike any other midsized truck on the market. The ride on the road is extremely composed, and there is not a rattle, shake, squeak, or wind whistle anywhere—it feels like a vault.

When I first heard that the new Ranger would be fitted with a 4-cylinder engine, I was underwhelmed. But all that melted away under smoking tires once I drove it.

If this is the future of gas engine technology, sign me up. The torque is prodigious once the turbo starts to spool, and it literally brought a smile to my face as it ticked off a sub-seven-second 0-60 run. The overall configuration of the interior is also quite good, with a bigger door opening and comfortable seats. Driver fatigue was low, and I hardly noticed a 1,000-mile drive to Taos and back. The rear seating area is the smallest in the test.

On the trail, the FX4 package provides the hardware needed to negotiate technical terrain. The rear locker engages easily with the push of a small button near the shifter.

The terrain management settings configure the throttle/transmission/traction control mapping for the desired terrain. This feature is most beneficial in sand and mud, reducing TC intervention and allowing necessary wheelspin. The trail control system is one of the smoothest in the test, but traction con-

trol (TC) intervention is slow. I also liked that the rear locker could be engaged in 2WD and that there is a real hand brake.

In slow-speed technical terrain, the Ranger performs well but needs improvement in articulation and TC effectiveness. I also noted that the TC disables under left-foot braking—not good. The lack of articulation and too-heavy rebound in the dampers results in quite a bit of head toss and a tendency for the truck to unload suddenly (pop) when a tire starts to leave the ground.

At higher speeds on the dirt, the Ranger is quiet and rattle-free. The stability control shuts (mostly) off when the button is pressed, and the tires have good grip. However, the suspension is very tied down and slow to respond due to the shock damping, which causes the truck to suffer from heavy step-out on corrugations. Overall, the Ranger is both an excellent value and a blast to drive both on the road and off.

PROS The EcoBoost engine is magic High-quality interior with low NVH Nearly 1,600-pound payload CONS Limited articulation Heavy step-out on corrugated surfaces Firm shock valving creates a busy ride on the road and off

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OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

JEEP | GLADIATOR SPORT MAX TOW PACKAGE PAYLOAD 1,700 POUNDS | $39,230

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he Jeep Gladiator has been the most highly anticipated launch into the overland market in decades, and for good reason. The new model incorporates the technical terrain attributes of the Wrangler and adds the payload and carrying capacity of a truck. This melding of the two ideas has resulted in an overwhelming sales success. From the perspective of overlanding, the Gladiator also addresses one of our primary concerns with the Wrangler— payload. A Wrangler has 1,050 pounds of payload, less than most passenger cars, but the Gladiator adds over 600 pounds to that number, which makes all the difference when an overlander needs to outfit a vehicle for remote travel.

Even 10 years ago, few remote, longdistance travel vehicles were Jeeps. It is not that it couldn’t be done, as Dan Grec drove around South America in a soft-top TJ, but most buyers wanted the payload and cargo volume of a larger vehicle. The Wrangler TJ Unlimited was the start of the shift, followed by the JK Unlimited. Now, the Gladiator has a 1,700-pound payload capacity (60 percent increase over the Wrangler), along with a notable increase in cargo area.

The Gladiator is also fun to drive with a responsive 285 horsepower V6 and 8-speed automatic; a 6-speed manual transmission is also available. Even with the vehicle’s size, I achieved an impressive 21 mpg in mixed driving.

On the trail, the Gladiator Sport was highly competent, although the lack of locking differentials was noticed, the traction control intervening regularly. However, the TC works well and does not defeat under left-foot braking. This brings up the reason why we did not specify the Rubicon for this test. Unfortunately, all of that off-pavement hardware reduces the payload by 500 pounds, which is more than the weight of a shell model Four Wheel Camper. We wanted to evaluate the most overland-appropriate model, and the Sport Max Tow Package unit has the best payload and tow ratings. Personally, I would OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

prefer the additional capacity, as adding a rear locker costs far less than the Rubicon package.

For most dirt driving, the Gladiator is really impressive given the wheelbase. Even the stock suspension does a good job of managing larger impacts. Head toss is okay, and the vehicle remains composed, rarely unloading unpredictably, and generally providing excellent articulation despite the front sway bar. We did some testing with the front sway bar disconnected, and while we can’t recommend it, all of the performance (even high speed) got even better. Highspeed dirt performance was also notable, with limited step-out and excellent predictability. It is worth noting that the Gladiator has the highest payload in the test, and the best articulation, all with a coil-sprung rear suspension. In my experience, the Gladiator is all I love about the Wrangler, plus nearly all I love about a Power Wagon. In addition, the Gladiator is the aftermarket darling, so anything imaginable can be bolted to it, although it needs almost nothing at all.

JEEP.COM

PROS Best-in-class payload Best-in-class towing Extremely robust throughout Available 6-speed manual transmission CONS Max tow package and 1,700-pound payload not available on Rubicon Lacks steering directness and precision at higher speeds Overall size limits some technical terrain performance

NISSAN | FRONTIER PRO-4X PAYLOAD 1,180 POUNDS | $33,530

issan is one of those brands that is so honest and reliable that you rarely hear a cross word said about their vehicles. They have somehow risen above the petty brand rivalries and produced one of the most durable, capable, and best-value midsize trucks on the market. Nissan makes the legendary Patrol, and its DNA is evident throughout the Frontier. Most notable is that the Frontier is the most reliable truck sold in North America, both for initial quality and for 36-month dependability ( J.D. Power). The Nissan also proves to be an impressive value, with the base model 4WD truck available for as little as $28,600 before incentives or dealer discounts.

The Frontier is both comfortable and competent on the trail and feels well-suited to the task. Between the large tire diameter of the Pro-4X and 10.1 inches of ground clearance, it easily completed our test loop.

The locking differential is key to this performance, as the traction control is only marginally effective and cancels under left-foot braking. Front articulation is limited due to the sway bar diameter, but rear-wheel travel is generous. Overall stability and compliance are average, with moderate head toss and a tendency for weight transfer to shift quickly (pop) in cross-axle terrain. Control in technical terrain is reduced due to the tall overall crawl ratio of 33:1. It was particularly noticeable when crossing a downed log, requiring much deeper throttle application and heavy left-foot braking to maintain precise control. This complicates matters, as traction control deactivates (for the front axle in this case) with left-foot braking. In general, the competition has much lower crawl ratios.

On the road, the Frontier felt familiar and even fun to drive. I appreciated the strong output of the large displacement V6 (the biggest in the test) but wanted more transmission gears. It would be tempting to describe the interior as basic, but I actually appreciated that. It didn’t feel fragile, but commercial and intentionally durable.

Photo by David Page

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My biggest concern on the highway was the braking performance, fading in particular. During my mountain road loop test, the brakes were exhibiting a soft pedal and notable fading within just a few minutes of higher speed evaluations.

The Frontier is not the most technologically advanced vehicle in the test, but that reflects the age of the platform. As with anything, maturity has its advantages, and in the case of the Nissan, that results in exceptional reliability and value. The vehicle also feels straightforward and capable in Pro-4X trim, even down to the 16-inch wheels, 265/75R16 tires, and fully boxed steel frame. Even the axle is a tried and true Dana 44. With the limited payload (1,180 pounds), owners will need to keep modifications limited, and equipment minimalistic, but just the cost savings alone over some of the other models will pay for a trip from Alaska to Panama—and back.

PROS Class-leading reliability Available 6-speed manual Dana 44 rear axle CONS Poor braking effectiveness and heat management Needs three more transmission gears 1,180-pound payload

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TOYOTA | TACOMA TRD PRO PAYLOAD 1,155 POUNDS | $46,665

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he Tacoma has been the benchmark of compact overland trucks since its introduction, and the model represents 62 percent of all trucks reported in our reader surveys. Overland Journal has owned a Gen 1 and Gen 3, and we have driven Tacomas from the Arctic Ocean to the Darién Gap in Panama. The history of the Toyota compact truck in North America goes back to the launch of the Stout, which gave way to the HiLux. In 2005, the Tacoma began production in the United States. The changes made to the frame and spring rates resulted in better ride quality, but a lower payload (the payload for US-spec, compact Toyota pickups was as high as 2,655 pounds). Despite these changes in capacity, Toyota’s famous reliability remained, and the Tacoma has become the best-selling midsize truck in America.

On the road, the Tacoma is a comfortable and efficient cruiser, returning good MPG while unloaded. The seat is lower than my liking, and the ceiling is also quite low, requiring a bit of contorting to get into the driver’s seat. But once inside, it is a comfy place with supportive seats and easy-to-read analog gauges. Most of the off-pavement switches and dials are located on the ceiling, including rear locker, terrain select, and crawl control. All of these systems work extremely well, clearly designed by engineers that actually go off pavement. The same is true for the internal bypass 2.5-inch Fox shocks, which have been significantly retuned for 2020. This change in valving has contributed to better compliance and control at both low and moderate speeds. I noted a drop in head toss, and that the truck better utilized the entire suspension travel.

The previous tune was too stiff, but this one is just right. I also noted an improvement in the spring rates, resulting in better frequency tuning and less step-out on corrugations.

In technical terrain, the rear suspension exhibits good articulation, and the improvement in valving minimizes sudden unloading or dynamic weight shifting. The front skid plate is an aluminum unit (1/4 inch OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

thick) and runs to the oil pan. The TRD Pro also includes a new exhaust, Rigid fog lamps, and redesigned bumper fascia for an improved approach angle. I appreciated the 16-inch wheels. Also of note is the factoryraised air intake, which is unique in the segment.

My criticisms of the vehicle sit squarely with the payload capacity and the transmission. As a point of reference, Toyota makes passenger cars with higher payload ratings than the Tacoma. Its 1,155-pound rating makes it impossible to install anything beyond a basic camper. Once a bumper, winch, additional fuel, tools, food, water, and occupants are considered, there is not enough capacity. In all candor, the automatic transmission is a disappointment. The first few gears of the transmission are too tall. For example, the Gladiator has 28 percent lower overall gearing when starting in first gear.

This gearing mismatch results in lackluster performance when unloaded, and unsettling responsiveness once a camper or trailer is added. Other than these few concerns, the Tacoma is an exceptional vehicle, and one deserving of the Toyota legacy.

TOYOTA.COM

PROS Properly tuned Fox shocks Tacoma dependability Genuine off-pavement hardware Available factory-raised air intake CONS Transmission ratios not matched to truck use Lowest payload in the test at 1,155 pounds

CONCLUSIONS

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his is our first Overland Truck of the Year test, and coming to a conclusion required significant validation and deliberation—picking the winners for both the Editor’s Choice and Value Award was a challenge. It was important to control as many biases as possible, and to also look at the attributes as a brand agnostic.

While there is considerable objective evaluation in this test, it is balanced with the evaluators’ notes and independent third-party accolades. As overlanders, we require a reliable and capable vehicle with enough capacity to support travel to remote destinations.

There are a few reasons why we harp on payload so much, but it comes down to liability and safety. It has somehow become avantgarde to modify and load a 4WD into obesity, but how can that vehicle stop properly, or avoid a child in the road with an emergency lane change? And if you are in an accident, most insurance companies have clauses that allow denial of a claim if the vehicle is over GVWR. That is not to say that a lower payload is not suitable for overland travel, but the buyer’s intention with the project needs to match the GVWR. VALUE AWARD What truck in this test represents the greatest overall value, the vehicle most likely to have the lowest overall cost of ownership? For this evaluation, the value leaders are the Nissan Frontier ($33,530) and the Ford Ranger ($35,625). And if the buyer is willing to be minimalist, the Ranger can be purchased with a rear locker for just under $30,000, and the Nissan as a base model 4WD for $28,600.

In my view, these are both exceptional values, but both have different strengths to bring to the table. The Ranger gives a full range of modern technology for 35 grand, while the Frontier gives proven durability, reliability, and capability. The Frontier is also $20,000 less expensive than the Bison, which will pay for a lot of travel. As an overlander, reliability remains one of the most critical attributes of any vehicle we purchase, so the Nissan wins our Value Award and will give decades of service to the buyer.

EDITOR’S CHOICE The Editor’s Choice Award is given to the product or vehicle that the editor would purchase, despite the price. I have always owned and trusted Toyotas, but truth be told, the Bison, Gladiator, and even the Ranger are better overall than the Tacoma. I suspect this is primarily due to timing and Toyota’s conservative nature. I also suspect all of these other manufacturers knew the benchmark they needed to beat. And while the Ranger was an absolute joy to drive on the highway, it lacked the execution of purpose that the Bison and Gladiator have. This left the Editor’s Choice between those two.

The Gladiator Sport Max Tow model is without question the most truck-like of the test; even the frame engineering was done

by Ram, and everything about it reinforces capacity. It is stable and competent under both towing and hauling loads. I also appreciate the solid axles and coil-sprung suspension, but one cannot ignore

that the Max Tow package is not available on the Rubicon. The Sport hits our expectations for payload and towing, but struggled against the Bison in all dirt environments, lacking lockers and trail protection. The Bison was effortless, while the Gladiator required constant spotting to avoid the soft bits. It was also the only vehicle that could not clear our breakover challenge. Yet the Gladiator is ready for real overland loads, and it will bring a giant smile every time you look at it—we finally got a Wrangler truck.

Our 2019 Overland Truck of the Year (midsize) goes to the Bison. Just a list of its features makes it the “HiLux” we always wanted, only better. It is available with a small-displacement turbo-diesel, front and rear locking differentials, a winch-ready steel front bumper, steel rear bumper with 1/4 panel protection, fulllength rock sliders, class-leading suspension, and scores second on J.D. Power’s reliability ranking (behind the Frontier). It checks all the boxes. Joe Bacal, our resident vehicle dynamics evaluator, said of the Bison, “It is my job to pick this truck apart, but I am struggling. It hit all of the marks.”

The Bison even has a respectable payload (nearly 1,500 pounds), particularly once you factor the 200+ pounds of bumpers, sliders, and skid plates that are already installed from the factory.

The only real curiosity with the Bison is the 2,700-pound tow rating reduction from the standard Colorado. That appears (from a source that requested anonymity) to be related to the reduced cooling with the off-pavement bumper.

The Bison is exceptional on the dirt at any speed, and I believe it would even hold its own against a stock Gladiator Rubicon in all but the most obscure recreational rock-crawling scenarios. It is easy to be obsessed about that additional 1 percent of performance advantage, but the Bison has all of the capability I expect from an overland truck, and greatly exceeded my expectations for performance on dirt trails and roads. The Bison is the overland truck we have all dreamed about, and it is available in North America.

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GM has just raised the bar for what is possible with a midsize pickup.

OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

OVERLAND VEHICLE COMPARISON MANUFACTURER

CHEVROLET

FORD

JEEP

NISSAN

TOYOTA

Model

Colorado ZR2 Bison

Ranger FX4

Gladiator Sport (Max Tow)

Frontier Pro-4X

Tacoma TRD Pro

MSRP

$52,845

$35,625

$39,230

$33,530

$46,665

Payload (pounds)

1,493

1,560

1,700

1,180

1,155

Towing (pounds)

5,000

7,500

7,650

6,450

6,400

Fuel type

Diesel

Unleaded

Unleaded

Unleaded

Unleaded

Torque

373

310

260

281

265

Horsepower

230

270

285

261

278

MPG (observed)

22

22

20

18

19

Range* (miles)

462

414

440

380

400

Ground clearance

8.9

8.9

10

10.1

9.4

Breakover angle (degrees)

23.5

21.5

18.4

20.5

23.9

Traction devices

F/R locker, TC

Rear locker, TC

TC

Rear locker, TC

Rear locker, TC

Low-range ratio

2.72

2.71

2.72

2.62

2.57

Axle ratio

3.42

3.73

4.1

3.35

3.9

Crawl ratio

37.7:1

47.5:1

52.5:1

33.7:1

36:1

Technical terrain performance

4

3

2.75

3.25

3.5

Dirt road performance

4.25

2.75

3

3

3.75

On-road performance

3.25

3.75

3

2.5

2.5

Driving comfort

3.5

3.5

3.5

3

3.25

Capacity

3.5

3.75

4.5

2.5

2.5

Evaluation Total

18.5

16.75

16.75

14.25

15.5

TESTING

*Fuel economy as observed during testing.

Bison capacities are based upon 2020 model year.

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OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

The East Mojave Heritage Trail A journey with purpose: this reclaimed route challenges pathfinders on its 30th anniversary.

By Bill Creech Photography by Bill Creech and Tony Talbert

OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

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D

escending the steep switchback into the canyon below, we heard the sudden and distinct noise of metal clanging against metal. I prayed it was nothing serious, but instinctively knew it was. Taking stock of the rear shock mounts, we discovered one had cracked to a dangerous degree, the other snapped in half.

We were 55 hard miles from the nearest point of civilization with one of the most remote and barren stretches of our route before us. For the first time, we realized our trip could be in jeopardy. The year of research, countless hours of planning, and efforts coordinating with the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and local authorities to recreate this 660-mile route would be for naught if we couldn’t repair this problem. Repair it, and then finish the more than 300 miles of trail that still lay ahead. We were in the thick of it, and the East Mojave Heritage Trail (EMHT) wasn’t done with us yet.

Many overlanders have either heard of or explored the historic 140-mile-long Mojave Road located in the East Mojave Desert in California. One of the original settler trails West, in 1975 it was rediscovered, documented, and popularized by renowned Mojave Desert explorer and historian Dennis Casebier. Since then, it has been considered one of the top overland routes in North America. However, ask those same overlanders if they’ve heard of the East Mojave Heritage Trail and you’ll most likely get a blank stare in response.

I stumbled across the Heritage Trail several years ago but didn’t pay it much mind. That changed two years ago when I was reviewing my research from that trip and found my scribbled note “EMHT?” on the corner of a page. It turns out that the East Mojave Heritage Trail, 660 miles of forgotten track, winds through the heart of the East Mojave Desert’s historical and geological treasures. It’s not a straightforward A to B route like Mojave Road, but instead meanders through the region, coiling back on itself like a mad as hell Mojave green rattlesnake—and it can be just as deadly. The EMHT traverses every type of desert terrain offered: hard pack dirt, soft sand, granite, and lava rock while slithering through massive sand dune areas, sprawling dry lake beds, twisting mountain passes, jagged lava and cinder fields, dry washes, expansive Joshua tree forests, and vast swaths of open desert with jaw-dropping vistas. To paraphrase Quint in the movie Jaws, if you go after the EMHT, you’re gonna get the head, the tail, the whole damn thing.

The East Mojave Heritage Trail was created by Dennis Casebier in the 1980s as an alternative to his popular Mojave Road to mitigate the ecological impact from its potential overuse. Four years of effort resulted in four volumes of books, each dedicated to a specific segment of the comprehensive tour of the East Mojave Desert. Those individual segments and corresponding guidebooks are Needles to Ivanpah, Ivanpah to Rocky Ridge, Rocky Ridge to Fenner, and Fenner to Needles. Included are four summary maps, 71 individual detailed maps, and about 1,200 pages of text containing vital route information, history, key personalities, and flora and fauna in each area.

Soon after the final book was published, wilderness areas (designated lands typically for wildlife habitat protection in which no vehicle may enter) came into effect cutting the trail in 13 places, impacting at least 75 miles of the route. Given the guidebooks are laid out in precise cumulative miles using geographic landmarks as the primary direction finders, any deviation from the original route rendered the guidebooks useless.

Dennis had been working in conjunction with the BLM to develop the trail and felt betrayed by the move to cut off the track.

Casebier abandoned the effort, but not before an initial run of books had been published. It was a set of these books that I found, inspiring me to recreate the track in 2019, its 30th anniversary.

THE PREPARATION

While the trail exists in many areas on current maps, several sections did not appear at all—the dreaded (or revered) “blank space.”

The Heritage Trail is so large that no single map exists that can display its full length, so I made my own. Each of the four summary maps were copied, changing their size to get them scaled equally, and then carefully pasted together, lining up key roads and highways. I color coded each of the segments and marked refueling points. I now had a single view of the EMHT that corresponded to each of the guidebooks. By using a combination of guidebooks, a summary map, paper maps, satellite imagery, and a specialized web application provided to me by the BLM to identify the wilderness areas, I was able to recreate the Heritage Trail with reroutes accounting for new restrictions. The length is now a daunting 724 miles. When done, I had a fully legal and compliant updated version of the East Mojave Heritage Trail.

Conversations with the BLM resulted in recommendations for information and tools, and an agreement to assist them with documenting wildlife, particularly desert tortoise sightings and sizes, any nefarious activities, trail conditions, Mylar balloon locations for a National Park Service project, etcetera. With the intent to publish the new route along with the additional geographic and ecological observations and reporting tasks set, I now had the framework for a desert expedition—a journey with purpose.

Rarely does one read about long-distance remote desert overland treks in North America. People might think that because the Mojave Road is so well-trafficked that this desert is relatively small and safe—it is not. For comparison, the Mojave Desert is 35 percent larger than Africa’s Namib Desert and comparable in size to South America’s legendary Atacama Desert.

During the past 30 years, many people used small portions of the trails, a few had tried an entire segment or two, none had traversed the entire EMHT, and certainly, no one had attempted to update it to make it compliant. In his guidebooks, Casebier warns that no single vehicle should attempt the Heritage Trail. He also advises that each segment should take 3 days to complete, 12 days in total. I was attempting to complete this expedition in just six days, solo. My good friend Tony Talbert heard about my crazy idea and decided he wanted to be a part of it, traveling from North Carolina via Overland Expo West to ride shotgun.

Left column: The weigh scales remain at the now-abandoned Aiken Mine.

The full scale and scope of the EMHT on a single map is daunting. The EMHT snakes its way through beautiful Joshua tree forests. Middle column: Mailbox 1—on average there is one visitor sign-in per month. Goffs Schoolhouse Museum displays many WWII military artifacts found in the area. Nipton, California—pick a direction, any direction, including the sun or moon. Right column: Desert blooms were on full display throughout the journey. This T&T railroad berm was a challenge with sudden washouts and drop-offs. Stop in at the Nipton Trading Post to grab some grub and meet people. Opening spread: Skirting Kokoweef Peak, a spectacular viewpoint ahead overlooks Ivanpah Valley 2,000 feet below.

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THE JOURNEY

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High on adrenaline in anticipation of a grand adventure, we arrived at our starting point in front of the abandoned El Garces Train Station in Needles, California. From there we quickly left pavement and wound our way through Eagle Pass to the Goffs Schoolhouse Museum. Old mining equipment, the museum, and WWII artifacts make this an intriguing stop. The entire area was once the training ground for the US Army in preparation for North African and Italian desert warfare in WWII. Departing Goffs across relatively open desert, we found our first desert tortoise a few miles past the Leiser Ray Mine. It was then onto the Mojave Road to check on the impressive petroglyphs at Indian Hill and up Caruthers Canyon to the New York Mountains.

Crossing over Lanfair Road, the trail became more rugged and less defined, until the big blank spot on the map where our foot recces began. Plodding our way forward between the Castle Mountains and the Piute Range, we finally made it to a key geographic landmark in Casebier’s book: Razorback Butte and the California– Nevada State Line marker. Our excitement continued to build as we aimed for the next landmark: Heritage Trail Mailbox 1.

Like Mojave Road, Casebier installed a mailbox on each of the four EMHT segments for people to sign in to monitor usage and gauge ecological impact. Back in the 1980s, Dennis was mentioning overlanding, Tread Lightly, and Leave No Trace decades before they became well-known. The man was ahead of his time in his care and concern for the environment and espousing proper stewardship.

Transiting narrow washes and steep ascents and descents of lightly used trail, we arrived at the first mailbox. I sat in my truck for a while just staring at it, and yes, there were a few tears involved—don’t judge me. Inside the mailbox was the book with signatures dating from 2003, averaging just one sign-in per month. In contrast, the Mojave Road averages about 250 names per month.

Almost immediately after the mailbox, the EMHT started hissing and rattling as the track became far more difficult with steep ascents that required low range, locker, and a bit of courage.

Based on the trail, it became obvious that most of those few people who had previously ventured to the mailbox had turned around.

Pressing on, we finally dropped out of the mountains into a big wash and headed east across the open desert to make camp. Grilling steaks and drinking coldies we celebrated the day’s adventure, progress, and success as the Milky Way rose above us.

Bright sun and deep blue skies greeted us the next morning as we crossed the desert to Searchlight, Nevada, for our first refueling point. From here, the trail coils back west and climbs into the New York Mountains traversing beautiful Joshua tree forests. Our path took us into Nipton, California, a town reminiscent of a trading post. The EMHT runs on pavement west of Nipton for a few miles until bending north along the edge of a dry lake bed to cross I-15.

From there, skirting the solar farm, we wound our way to Ivanpah, the first mining town if not the first settlement in the Mojave Desert, and the endpoint of Segment 1.

The trail then climbs steadily and steeply to the picturesque Colosseum Mine, a massive open-pit gold and silver mine where you can drive down to its water-filled base 500 feet below. Descending the mountain, the EMHT deviates from the main path and snakes its way to Kelly Field, an emergency landing field established by the US Post Office Department in the 1930s to support OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

the original airmail route from Los Angeles to Las Vegas to Salt Lake City. The bulk of the former airfield now sits within wilderness boundary, so we used Excelsior Mine Road to the Kingston Wash trailhead to get back on the original Heritage Trail. Winding and slogging our way through the deep sand wash, evidence of exceptional winter rains and floods, we used Casebier’s geographic descriptions and eventually came to Heritage Trail Mailbox 2.

Pleased with our success, we continued out of the wash to the old Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad berm. Started by Francis “Borax” Smith in the early 1900s until 1940, the T&T supported the hauling of mined borax across the desThe indigo night sky ert. The berms, beams, and some spikes are provided us with a still present, but the US Government reqmagnificent view of uisitioned all of the steel rails in 1942 to Jupiter rising above support WWII efforts. the eastern horizon Traversing the berm, the EMHT startwhile shooting stars ed rattling and threatening its first real danced across strike as we faced sudden dropoffs, square the heavens. ledges, and steep-angled climbs where winter storms had ravaged the area. More low range and locker work, as‌‌well‌‌as‌‌foot‌‌recces, got us off the berm and up to our camping spot with a sprawling valley view. The onsite cabin was clean, but hantavirus is a real thing, so we opted for our normal arrangements—Tony sleeping in the back seat of my truck, and me in the rooftop tent. The indigo night sky provided us with a magnificent view of Jupiter rising above the eastern horizon while shooting stars danced across the heavens.

The next morning, we took the opportunity to sleep in, knowing we only had a short trek to our next refueling point, the town of Baker, California. Before cars got 20+ mpg, Baker was the stopping point between Southern California and Las Vegas. Now, it’s a jumping-off point when headed into Death Valley. Tourists delight in the World’s Tallest Thermometer and get their alien fix at Alien Fresh Jerky (my personal favorite is the Abducted Cow jerky—I said no judging). Soon we were back on dirt, paralleling the western edge of I-15 before leaving the well-defined trail, angling into the Turquoise Mountains and across Shadow Valley.

Crossing over I-15 and trekking along the eastern side of the Ivanpah Mountains and Kokoweef Mine, we came to a magnificent viewpoint to the south. The tale of the “Kokoweef Lost Underground River of Gold” has persisted for almost a century having neither been proven nor disproven, earning its status as a legitimate legend. It contains the elements of a good old-fashioned mystery, and no one can enter the mine unless they wish to become a part of the story. “Missing persons, Indian superstition, bearded and heavily-armed prospectors guarding against claim jumpers, courtroom drama, and death itself have all become part of the Kokoweef legend.” –Casebier, EMHT Guide Book 2 Departing the viewpoint, we were forced to negotiate a tight, twisty, rocky watershed while working our way to John Riley Bembry’s gravesite. Bembry was a World War I veteran, medic in the US Army, and an explosives instructor. These were skills put to good use upon arriving in the Ivanpah Mountain Range in the late 1920s. Bembry passed away in 1984, and the Heritage Trail passes next to his gravesite. A short distance away is Riley’s Camp, a noteworthy cultural landmark and worth the short side trip.

Crossing over Cima Road put us into familiar territory. Meandering through a Joshua tree forest, we stopped at an abandoned ranch, corral, and the site of the old Mojave Phone Booth.

The booth became such a cultural phenomenon in the late 1990s and early 2000s that the phone company removed it due to so many people hanging out waiting for the phone to ring. There is an award-winning movie about it, aptly titled, The Mojave Phone Booth. Just a short distance away is a hike to Cow Cove and the most heavily concentrated petroglyphs in the Mojave Desert.

From there, the terrain abruptly switches from sand and Joshua trees to jagged lava rock and red cinder, climbing onto the Marslike terrain of the Aiken Cinder Mine. When Casebier created the trail, the mine was active, so the original route avoided it. With the designation of the Mojave National Preserve in the 1990s, the mining company decided to walk away, leaving all of their equipment behind. As you drive this area, mind your sidewalls due to the sharp lava rock.

We stopped at the Lava Tube so we could descend and explore it a bit. Time it right, and you’ll witness a bright beam of sunlight through a small ceiling opening reminiscent of Raiders of the Lost Ark. Moving along, the trail enters Willow Wash along the leading edge of an ancient 8-feet-high lava flow and into an isolated culde-sac surrounded by cinder/lava domes. Exiting the way we came, we hit the blacktop of Kelbaker Road for a short distance and turned south, reentering open desert and ascending to the EMHT Segment 2 endpoint atop Rocky Ridge.

Looking down from the ridge, our route through Jackass Canyon was obvious. But so was the area I feared most: the stretch of Clockwise from top right: The EMHT parallels and intersects the defunct T&T in several areas. After Mailbox 1, the route gets very tight and rugged in places. Native American petroglyphs at Indian Hill are present on nearly every surface. Westbound from Searchlight, Nevada, the scenery was phenomenal.

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Clockwise from top left: Rocky Ridge, overlooking Jackass Canyon and the railroad siding. Skirting the impressive lava flow in Wilson Wash. We finally made the firm, smooth ground of Crucero’s dry lake bed. No one has proved what the mysterious Mojave Megaphone actually is. Taking a pause in the Lava Tube—now where exactly is that Well of Souls?

pure white sand from the canyon exit to Crucero Dry Lake, residing in one of the most remote regions in the East Mojave Desert. The weather had been in our favor with recent rain and cool temperatures, so I was hoping that the sand would be fairly packed. I could hear the EMHT starting to rattle, slight ticks just daring us to come closer and warning us that we’d better not. From Rocky Ridge, it is a steep descending shelf road with a very tight switchback. If you miss, it’s game over, so don’t miss. We shifted into low range second gear and eased off the brake— game on.

Crawling down the steep switchback into Jackass Canyon, the Heritage Trail suddenly coiled and struck with a vengeance. Our hearts sank as we discovered the snapped rear shock mount and noticed the other cracked as well. We realized our journey was now in jeopardy as we had 55 hard miles to the nearest point of civilization on one of the most remote stretches of our route. We removed the shock to avoid further damage and pushed on into the bleach-white sand, eyeballing the massive sand dunes looming to our right. I carry an InReach, so I texted my friend Jay Waxler, a mechanic with solid welding skills, and asked him to meet us in Ludlow. Though I do have an onboard welder, this was beyond my ability. With less confidence but more determination, we started across the sand area. Portions were very soft, but it wasn’t anywhere near as bad as I had feared; traveling in hot, dry months could drastically change those conditions.

Turning west, skirting and parallelling the massive, rugged dunes, we soon found ourselves on the hardpacked lake bed—what a relief.

Once again on familiar turf, one of the great mysteries of the East Mojave Desert, the Mojave Megaphone, was just a short jaunt north.

The Heritage Trail decided she was ready for the next round; damage from flooding turned the previously smooth drive to Broadwell Dry Lake into a quagmire of ruts and washes. Typically, deep ruts are no cause for concern, but with the current state of my vehicle and rapidly dwindling sunlight, our angst level was pegged on 11. That all changed as we drove onto the dry lake’s smooth golden surface, and the rest of the drive into Ludlow was painless. Thus far, the EMHT was doing an excellent job of turning my expectations on their head. What I knew was easy was now hard, and what I feared would be hard, wasn’t.

Ludlow, California, was once a thriving Route 66 town but is now reduced to just a few gas stations and a café. Two hours from the time we removed the shock, we limped into Ludlow and met Jay (Friend of the Year) in a parking lot; he decided that the broken mount was beyond even his skill. I shouldn’t have given him the deep-fried gas station burrito until after he made his assessment. But hey, the guy drove OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

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Left column: Roy’s Motel and Café in Amboy, California, is a Route 66 icon. The Rings Trail hike at Hole in the Wall is simply spectacular. This is one of five endangered desert tortoises we plotted and measured for the BLM. Right column: We found ourselves on a steep climb on Vulcan Mine Road toward Foshay Pass. The Kelso Depot and Visitors Center is an oasis in the desert. Welcome to Siberia! Opposite: The entrance to Mitchell Caverns may look ominous, but it’s a place well worth visiting.

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110 miles (one way) on a moment’s notice on the Friday night of a holiday weekend to help us. One of the critical attributes of overlanding is being resourceful, and that includes having a good contact list and great friends.

Behind the gas station, we found ourselves laying under my truck trying to weld the cracked rear shock tower to keep moving forward. The other shock tower was broken in half with only the coil spring holding up that side, Two hours later, we were still and we still had more than 300 trying to find a way through miles of the Heritage Trail ahead what appeared to be a postof us. We chose to press on. apocalyptic wasteland from After 10:00 p.m., we headed Mother Nature’s fury. The sand across I-40 for what should have trail was now a 30-feet-deep, been a one-hour cruise over easy 100-feet-wide, square-walled terrain to Heritage Trail Mailflood chasm. box 3 where we would camp.

Two hours later, we were still trying to find a way through what appeared to be a post-apocalyptic wasteland from Mother Nature’s fury. The sand trail was now a 30-feet-deep, 100-feet-wide, square-walled flood chasm. It was past midnight, but we couldn’t stop because we had only recently come through Ash Hill, which per Casebier is a former toxic waste dump. A safe distance away, we made camp on relatively high ground and called it a night.

Sleep would not come as exhaustion and fatigue did battle with my emotions and thoughts. This was by far the most challeng-

ing overland trek I had ever undertaken. Somewhere around 2:00 a.m., I fell asleep thinking of what other strikes would be delivered and how we would deal with them, because we would have to deal with them—we’d come too far not to.

As the sun rose, we broke camp and surveyed our surroundings, determining that our newfound ability to see only marginally improved things. After a few dozen foot recces trying to find a way to get to the actual trail, we determined that the chasm was the trail and it was just plain gone. We could see the mailbox, but couldn’t get to it the way we had intended. We rerouted to the railroad siding and followed that to a wash that would take us where we wanted to go. Climbing the embankment and turning into a secluded cove, there it was, Heritage Trail Mailbox 3.

The third mailbox is interesting in that it is the closest to a road and therefore the easiest to access, yet not many people know about it. The sign-in book is the original, with signatures dating from 1992. Casebier intentionally placed the mailboxes in locations that only those traveling the EMHT would spot so he could accurately monitor the usage of his specific trail. It was truly special to hold, read, and sign the original book. At this point, we figured we were three for three on the mailboxes as Heritage Trail Mailbox 4 was originally located in what is now the center of a large wilderness area. Since emplacements are illegal, the BLM would have known about it and removed it decades ago.

Due to the past winter’s severe storms, the current ground

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72 An interesting set of rock formations in the Piute Mountains. Bummed I didn’t study geology. Ancient stalactites cling and grow from the ceiling of Mitchell Caverns.

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conditions were not suitable on the planned route. We rerouted and angled our way to Siberia (yes, Siberia) and then out onto Route 66 where we got our kicks and headed for Amboy and the famous Roy’s Motel and Café site. Along our way, we passed Amboy Crater (a great hike in cool weather months) and came across a land speed world record attempt with a human-powered vehicle. There were five cyclists in a low-slung, highly polished, cigar-shaped tube, er, vehicle. We stopped and chatted and watched them take their shot, but they came up a bit short as they had a mechanical issue and had to abandon the attempt, achieving only 70 mph.

From Amboy, our plan was to head up a trail back into the mountains to connect with the EMHT—what’s that saying about best-laid plans? The Heritage Trail struck with fury as we entered a pure rock garden with no For two hours we had discernable trail. Low range in earbeen in low range first nest, we continued on, progressing gear crawling over only six miles before deciding that it softball- and soccerballwas getting worse, and we needed to sized rocks, dropping turn around. For two hours we had into washes trying to been in low range first gear crawling work our way to any over softball- and soccerball- sized form of a smoother path. rocks, dropping into washes trying to work our way to any form of a smoother path. Countless foot recces that held some hope of an easier way turned out to be stymied a short distance later. But now we had to drive the same route back out.

Back at Roy’s, we filled up on $6/gallon petrol because the four hours in low range chewed up more than we had planned for. It was decided to continue on Route 66 to Kelbaker Road, then up to the other side of I-40. Having enjoyed the respite the pavement brought, we skirted the wilderness area, venturing into the Granite Hills area to the spectacular Kelso Dunes.

There we found more desert tortoise and rejoined the original Heritage Trail.

From Kelso Dunes, we visited the Kelso Depot, an oasis with deep green grass and tall palm trees. The Kelso Depot was the main Union Pacific Railroad depot in the area, but it was abandoned. Local citizens successfully lobbied for its refurbishment and use as the National Park Service headquarters and Visitor Center for the Mojave National Preserve. Leaving Kelso Depot, Vulcan Mine Road has a steep low range climb over Foshay Pass and then turns up to the Hole in the Wall campground. At Hole in the Wall, plan time to do the Rings Trail loop hike as it is spectacular. The campground is at high elevation; temps this night plunged to close to freezing. A raging windstorm brewed and manifested, attempting to send me to the Land of Oz in my rooftop tent. Meanwhile, Tony was snugly sleeping inside of my truck. Not wanting him to miss out on all the fun, I convinced him to help me remove the rainfly on my tent that was now acting like a parachute. Then the rain started. I just chuckled—you can’t make this stuff up. A steady stream of tent campers could be seen packing it in and exiting the campground posthaste.

The wind subsided as dawn broke on day five and we were up early—not hard when you haven’t been to sleep. I dragged my bleary-eyed self out of the tent to eat breakfast. We broke camp quickly, as we had a morning meeting with the California

State Park Rangers at Mitchell Caverns. With their stalactites and stalagmites, the caverns are impressive—made even more dramatic with effect lighting and the history lesson imparted from the rangers. The caverns recently reopened after having been closed to the public for more than six years, and are the only limestone ones in the California Park System. They are also home to two unique species: the tawny-hued Niptus beetle and a species of pseudoscorpions. We got to see a gopher snake attempt to eat a rock squirrel, but the squirrel had other plans and left that snake bloody and battered. Perhaps a hopeful sign for the rest of our match with the EMHT. We left the Providence Mountains behind and headed across flat desert to our last refueling point and the Heritage Trail 3 endpoint in Fenner. A check of the truck revealed that not only was the one remaining rear shock mount cracking again, but we had snapped the rear sway bar in two. Our only protection against losing a coil spring was now combat ineffective. Realizing we were only about 35 miles from Jay’s house, I called him and arranged to meet at his shop where we could utilize his MIG welder, then get back on the trail. After boxing and reinforcing not only the existing mount but doing the same for the one that had broken, we now had four fully functioning shocks welded stronger than ever. I decided I didn’t need the sway bar since I hadn’t noticed my truck driving any differently after it had snapped. We had delivered a very effective counterblow to the Heritage Trail and had her reeling for once, returning to the starting point of Segment 4 with a solid vehicle underneath us.

Our final day with 130 miles to go kicked off with rejuvenated spirits and renewed confidence. For hours we drove on smooth, hard-packed sand two-track, enjoying the scenery and sights of the Old Woman Mountains. This area has a pretty huge reroute due to the wilderness area, and I knew the mailbox had been removed. Imagine our surprise when we came upon Heritage Trail Mailbox 4. Someone had erected a replacement mailbox outside of the wilderness area. Complete joy swept over us—we were four for four and cheering loudly like high schoolers being told their final exams have been canceled. It felt as if our fortunes had turned. Little did we know that the Heritage Trail was only biding her time.

As the planned route once again diverged from the main trail, we began entering another rock garden. In my quest to rejoin the EMHT as soon as it exited wilderness area, I had put us on what the satellite images indicated was a clear path. It was now a ravaged mess of bowling ball-sized (and larger) rocks strewn everywhere.

The Heritage Trail struck again. With low range engaged and crawling with foot recces every 10 minutes or so for the hundredand-some-odd time, we slowly found our way, constantly yearning for a smooth patch of dirt or pavement. Finally, we made our way to US Route 95 and the short jog south to rejoin the EMHT. Note: Any attempt at this section should reroute using Turtle Mountain Road to Route 95 south, then east on the Heritage Trail.

Once across the highway, the rocks diminished, but now there were sudden washouts and massive holes. We made our way to our final stopping point to check the condition of the petroglyphs at West Well and observed a herd of wild burros. As we crested a steep, short hill, I looked over my hood and could see the ground angle out in front on the left. All was fine, until bang! We dropped into a hole on the right side of my truck; the momentum had both

the front and rear taking the full brunt of the massive hits. We stopped to investigate the carnage: the rear right shock mount was torn completely from the frame ( Jay’s welds held), the right front shock was blown, and the front stabilizer bracket cracked in half. Assessing the damage, we figured we were no worse off than we were before. With that, I told Tony my truck wouldn’t fail, and he replied, “Neither will we.” I set my jaw, tucked my chin, and mounted up—pressing on for the last 70 miles.

Normally, powerline roads or pavement are to be avoided at all costs in my book. But now we were yearning for any form of smooth stretch, seeking a break from the pounding of rocks, washboard, and humps to a vehicle with only two usable shocks, both on the same side. We finally hit a 14.5-mile stretch of smooth powerline road that helped us regain some pace and sanity. Excitement came back in full force as we found two more desert tortoise along the trail. Then it was back to a crawl in rugged terrain. We were waiting for the next strike, but it never came. As we reentered Eagle Pass and joined our outbound route, retracing our steps back to the starting point in Needles, we began to realize we had done it.

We had completed the East Mojave Heritage Trail in just six days, and we did it on our own.

As we rounded the corner onto Broadway and pulled up to the painted Route 66 logo on the street that marked both our starting and finishing points, I looked at my odometer. It read 861.4 miles—deduct exactly 100 miles for the round trip to Jay’s for repairs and our route had covered 761.4 miles—a 15-percent increase from Dennis Casebier’s original route. I thought I would be completely elated at the finish, but it was just the opposite— sadness washed over me. The research, project goals, and build-up were all over. There was nothing left to do but air up the tires and drive the four hours home.

Sophocles once wrote, “One must wait until the evening to see how splendid the day has been.” As the sun set, I reflected on all that had happened; it was a most splendid day. Would I do it again?

Tough to say right now as I’m still patching up my vehicle, but the short answer is yes, absolutely.

From the BLM: Archaeological resources are non-renewable resources, protected by law. Please respect the archaeological resources on your public lands by leaving them the way you found them.

AUTHOR’S NOTE While the EMHT is both extreme (in places) and remote, it is never unmanageably far from human settlement. Make sure you follow proper protocols for water, shelter, communications, and repair and recovery in a desert environment—and have a capable vehicle.

Dennis Casebier deserves thanks and gratitude for his lifelong love and dedication to the Mojave Desert. Through his efforts, we have not only amazing routes to explore, but the written history of the area which allows us to not only see the desert but experience it. The East Mojave Heritage Trail lives up to its name and provides the most immersive Mojave Desert experience one could imagine. Please reach out to Dennis and his Friends of the Mojave Road at the Mojave Desert Heritage & Cultural Association: mdhca.org/ OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

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Cartography by David Medeiros (mapbliss.com)

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The Dig Tree A second attempt to cross the Western Sahara by motorcycle ends in a tactical retreat.

By Chris Scott

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I

Clockwise from top left: A multitool was needed to break up the sugar for this Moroccan mint tea.

Heading into the High Atlas, mules easily outnumber cars. A steep descent to the Chott Mezwat Claypan in the Western Sahara. Mud-brick and thatch dwellings blend into the landscape in the Aït Bouguemez.

This track through the Assif Melloul Gorge in the High Atlas is prone to flooding. Opening page: A grove of windblown acacias stands tall at the 28th parallel.

n 2015, I had some fuel buried in the Western Sahara by a Belgian couple on their way to Mauritania. A few weeks later, they sent a picture of a thorn tree with “CS” carved on the trunk.

“Mark two meters north, and dig,” it said. “We left you a mystery gift.”

I nicknamed it the Dig Tree, recalling the historic 1862 landmark of illfated Australian Outback explorers Burke and Wills. My cache would enable a direct transit of the barren Western Saharan interior, an area I’d yet to explore. In 2017, aboard an agile Yamaha WR250R, I’d got close, but even with a sat phone, at the last minute, it felt too risky. Now I was back, riding a Himalayan, Royal Enfield’s first new model following decades pumping out the aged 350/500 Bullet single. “Always sick, never terminal,” was how one owner described her Bullet. In India, they’re ubiquitous, and every village mechanic knows how to fix one. Elsewhere, they’re an eccentric choice— you want something else in the garage.

The unproven Himalayan was also a gamble, but Eicher Motors (who also own Jaguar Land Rover) had invested heavily, and Royal Enfield was moving on up. Rather than aping the adventure motorcycling trend, with the Himalayan, they’d plowed their own path. The revised export model of 2018 was a simple, air-cooled, dual-sport—well-equipped and at an unbeatable price. In Western markets, including the US, sales had taken importers by surprise. I saw the potential too, fixed one up, and set off for Morocco around Eastertime.

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Photo by Colin Robins

80 Students entering the zaouia (religious school) near Assa’s Old Town or ksar. Royal Enfield’s Himalayan felt equally at home in the deserts of North Africa.

Opposite: The weathered battlements of the huge former Foreign Legion fort complex at Bou-Jerif.

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Over a fortnight logging new routes in the High Atlas, the Himalayan exceeded my expectations. On paper it’s unimpressive: a slowrevving, long-stroke, 411cc motor making just 24 horsepower propelling a kerb weight of 425 pounds, nearly the same as a CB500X. But riding was believing—the torquey, injected single recalled the steady plodders of Royal Enfield’s distant heyday, but without the vibration. The suspension is basic but compliant on a chassis designed by Harris Performance (now owned by Eicher, but legendary even when I was a biking teenager). When combined with the accessible 31.5-inch saddle height (hallelujah), it makes for a satisfying and effective all-road travel bike that doesn’t really have any direct competitors.

Be that as it may, the Dig Tree was still a desolate 1,100-kilometre run: three-quarters piste passing just one town. Off pavement, there would be nothing, not even wells. To eliminate the stress, I arranged to meet in the frontier town of Assa with Colin, a photographer friend from my dispatching days, and Mark, a fellow Moroccoholic in a well-traveled Toyota.

Most maps depict the Western Sahara as a distinct territory, suggesting a border just below the 28th parallel. Up to 1976, this was the Spanish Sahara, but upon Franco’s death, the Spanish swiftly pulled out, and the Moroccans rolled in just as fast. The colony’s indigenous Saharawi had no say. The Polisario guerilla war ensued, and Morocco prevailed, gradually extending a 2,000-kilometre-long berm which divides the territory. Since then, Morocco has established a firm foothold in its coastal sector. East of the heavily mined berm is the barely developed and little-known Saharawi Arab Democratic Republic. On either side, UN peacekeepers police a ceasefire. The reason maps don’t depict this reality is doing so would legitimize Morocco’s annexation.

The Dig Tree provided much-needed motivation to visit the Western Sahara—a dreary, windswept limestone plain menaced by unexploded ordnance (UXO). Until the colonial era, even the Saharawi kept to the less-arid coast, preying on ship-wrecked mariners, as Dean King’s Skeletons on the Zahara vividly describes.

Today, the coastal highway is the main road to Mauritania. Few tourists venture inland, but Mark and I were curious to see it for ourselves.

Colin had never been to Africa, let alone the Sahara, and was along for the ride.

Mark knew well how quickly things could turn sour out here. Last year, he’d been heading into the interior when an 80 Series in the party

NORTHERLIES RACED ACROSS THE PLAIN DAY AND NIGHT, SO EVEN THE FEW TREES GREW CROOKED, BENT TO THE SOUTH. THE CAR WAS ALL THE COVER WE’D GET, SO I PILED A WINDBREAK AROUND THE TOYOTA’S FRONT WHEEL AND HUNKERED DOWN FOR THE NIGHT.

suffered an electrical short—a not uncommon occurrence on corrugated desert trails. Before assorted extinguishers could make an impact, the merciless harmattan wind had whipped up the fire; in 10 minutes, the vehicle was lost in a shroud of flames and exploding components.

We met up in Assa. Compared to the Berber communities of the Atlas, the vibe here was different. Inhabited by Arab descendants of nomadic Bedouin and Yemeni incomers, a Saharawi might roll in with his ancient Land Rover loaded with camels, trade them for some flour, oil, and sugar, then head back to his desert camp.

After fueling up, we too picked up some last-minute provisions for our four-day drive to Dakhla on the far southern coast.

When the tarmac ended, we joined an old Dakar Rally route from 1995, traversing a low plateau dotted with flat-topped mesas, as scenic as things would get. Most of the time, the riding was easy enough, but at a sandy gorge, I quickly reached the humble Himalayan’s limits and needed a push. Even aired-down, the bike had the torque but just too much weight, and the chain was jumping over the engine sprocket before the wheels turned. Two years earlier, alone on the Yamaha WR, I’d made an even bigger mess of it and battled for hours to get through.

In the central Sahara, usually, the wind blows by day and drops off at dusk, making ideal evening camps. But here, northerlies raced across the plain day and night, so even the few trees grew crooked, bent to the south. We dropped off the plateau to a vast clay pan, hoping the escarpment would provide a sheltered niche—no such luck. The car was all the cover we’d get, so when the time came, I piled a windbreak around the Toyota’s front wheel and hunkered down for the night.

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Left: Photo by Colin Robins, Right: Photo by Mark Warden

WE DROVE OVER TO INVESTIGATE A STONE BUILDING, BUT AS WE APPROACHED, WE REALIZED IT WAS A TINY WATCHTOWER PERCHED ON AN UNUSUAL DOUBLE BERM. WARY OF THE RISK OF LANDMINES AT SUCH PLACES, WE PROCEEDED ON FOOT, STEPPING ROUND BARBED WIRE AND OVER SARDINE CANS.

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Goofing about on the claypan. Boujdour, a ferry bound for the nearby Canaries, beached on its inaugural sailing.

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By lunchtime the next day, we’d passed through various checkpoints to grab lunch in Smara, a lively garrison town close to the berm. As elsewhere out here, subsidies encouraged northerners to relocate and help populate the territory. By afternoon, we were on the main 700-kilometre stage, kicking up dust across the flat landscape. Dakar route-marking mounds occasionally appeared by the track as well as minor berms—relics of the Polisario conflict.

As the sun dropped, I spotted a stone building to the east. We drove over to investigate, hoping for shelter from the gale, but as we approached, we realized it was a tiny watchtower perched on an unusual double berm.

Wary of the risk of landmines at such places, we proceeded on foot, stepping round barbed wire and over sardine cans. There was no respite here, so we continued to a grove of acacias where Mark stretched out inside his Land Cruiser while Colin and I spent another night huddled by our respective wheel arches, waiting for the dawn.

Before leaving, I’d converted my spoked wheels to tubeless, on the front reluctantly fitting a Tubliss liner for want of a properly sealed rim, as on the rear. In recent days, I’d noted sealant fluid leakage around the high-pressure valve and was keeping an eye on it. But the next morning, just 110 kilometres from the Dig Tree, the Tubliss core lost pressure, and the tyre went with it. Knowing a repair to the 100-psi core would need to hold for hundreds more kilometres, we mulled over recovery options: backtracking 250 clicks to Laâyoune on the coast was best. How, we’d yet to work out. Out of the blue, a Saharawi turned up in his decrepit 109-inch pickup, but a visit to Laâyoune didn’t sit well with the desert nomads.

Ironically, the ruined Tubliss proved to be its own solution: the core effectively turned the Michelin into a run-flat tyre. At 30 mph, it was a slow ride to the coast, and by the time the wheel was fixed up, we needed a plan B. I couldn’t afford to miss a tour group of mine arriving in Marrakech in a few days, so we turned back north.

Remote desert travel is a tightrope, and experience provides lessons on how to catch a fall. Whether it’s a blazing vehicle or minor tyre problems, until you end up like Burke and Wills, a solution is always found. And the Dig Tree? That will be there next time.

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Tactical Application Vehicles’ Goat A team of veterans translates lessons learned from combat to the needs of overland travelers.

By Scott Brady

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Tac·ti·cal (adjective) Showing adroit planning; aiming at an end beyond the immediate action.

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very vehicle has a story, some born from necessity, some from vanity, and some even from tragedy. For Walt Wagner, owner of Tactical Application Vehicles (TAV) in New Mexico, it was the loss of his cousin, Vincent, in 2013 that inspired this project. When Vincent passed away, Walt offered to purchase his much-loved 2009 Tacoma from his cousin’s wife. After obtaining the truck, TAV started the process of honoring Walt’s family in a unique way, by bringing their elite unit experience, credibility, and functionality to existence as a best-practice vehicle build.

Vincent and Walt were first cousins and very close. According to Walt, “Vincent went into the US Army and wanted to be a Ranger, accomplishing that and then some at a very young age. By the time he got out of the army, he had several deployments overseas where he was a HALO-certified member of long-range surveillance detachment (LRSD). When Vincent showed up to his new LRSD unit with a beard (you’re not supposed to do that), they nicknamed him Goat. That name stuck with him even after he left the army and started working with me doing nuclear security. It was there he picked up the name Ranger Goat.” Vincent and Walt worked as federal agents for about four years before “Vincent had an opportunity to contract overseas as a shooter medic. That allowed him to put some money away for his wife and two little girls. AfOVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

ter that, he decided to stay home where it was safe and pursue a nursing degree. One night, after wrestling around a little with his daughters and kissing them goodnight, he went to lay down. He passed away that night in his sleep.”

Walt has an extensive history in the military and law enforcement and this experience is evident in TAV’s builds. Walt explains that “with every one of the Toyotas we build, we focus on the mission’s needs first. The client’s long-term requirement for the vehicle gives us the foundation to build in the details, addressing everything from spring rates and shock valving to creature comforts in the living space onboard. In the end, the client is behind the wheel of a highly capable, custom-tailored expedition vehicle suitable for daily tasks as well as multi-week adventures.”

FOUNDATION OF THE GOAT

Every overland vehicle is only as good as the base vehicle it is built upon, and there are few North American platforms as respected as the Toyota Tacoma TRD, this particular unit being a Sport 4-door long-bed. The stock 4.0L V6 was augmented with a Magnuson supercharger, the results of which significantly increased horsepower and torque, and added that classic gear spooling whine. It is typically best to leave an engine stock, but Walt has found this unit to be reliable with long-term use. The results are

The TAV Tacoma is designed with technical terrain in mind, complete with 37-inch tires and long-travel suspension.

Opposite: 1. Walt did an excellent job of minimizing overall height by using a low-profile Prinsu rack and only mounting a few items like MaxTrax, 5 gallons of fuel, and a Pelican case with a few light recovery items.

2. Another advantage of the Habitat is the massive interior space due to the fully opening top—this provides both a large sleeping area and room enough for several adults to sit or stand.

3. Walt’s mindset reflects a high degree of preparedness, including a pistol (shown in a trigger-guarded holster) and a sheathed knife.

4. The Habitat camper opens to the rear, providing a massive shade and weather cover over the back of the vehicle.

5. Limit handling is always an indicator of good design. Here, Walt demonstrates a drift on private property.

6. A dual-battery system provides additional capacity and security while exploring remotely.

7. The rear of the vehicle includes a custom CBI bumper with integrated recovery points.

8. High-performance lighting has its place, and there are few solutions as effective as the Baja Designs LP6 with daytime running lamp, cornering lamp, and high-output driving beams.

9. The bed of the TAV was kept minimalist to reduce weight and ensure sufficient standing room.

10. This Tacoma looks ready for the Baja 500, with long-travel King suspension.

11. Particular attention was paid to the rear axle, including a custom Currie 9-inch unit with a widened track and ARB locking differential.

Opening page: The second-generation Tacoma is one of the most reliable and robust offerings for the North American overlander, but buyers must be mindful of the limited available payload.

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SPECIFICATIONS

2009 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport 4-door long bed POWER 4.0L V6 with Magnuson supercharger 5-speed automatic

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impressive, and with the 5.29:1 axle gearing, I watched Walt drift this truck the length of a football field on private property outside of Tucson, Arizona. Acceleration is strong, and the boost helps mitigate loss at higher elevations. To accommodate the increased power and 37-inch tires, the TAV team specified a 69-inch Currie F9 rear axle. The wider track width helps to offset the higher center of gravity, and the stronger housing ensures the Tacoma can bear a full payload.

To match the rear, a Total Chaos 3.5+ inch, long-travel front suspension was installed, along with longer RCV axle shafts.

The Tacoma as shown is slightly over factory GVWR, which Walt attempted to remedy by installing a stronger rear axle with a larger ring and pinion, better bearings, a more robust housing, more powerful SOS, and 4-piston billet calipers with slotted StopTech rotors. The independent front was also improved with Total Chaos (wider) arms, and King shocks with 700+ pound coils. The axle shafts were swapped to custom RCV units, along with 5.29:1 axle gears. The front brakes were also significantly improved with an SOS performance big brake kit, featuring StopTech 6-piston billet calipers. The frame was also strengthened with an Archive Garage Hammer rear shackle hanger cross brace. The rear suspension is a combination of custom, TAV-spec Alcan leaf springs with a 800+ pound rating, augmented by a Firestone floating airbag kit, a Total Chaos rear shock relocation OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

kit, and King remote reservoir shocks, along with 2-inch air bumps.

FOR REMOTE EXPLORATION

This Tacoma is not just a trail monster, but also an exploration platform. To support Walt’s overland excursions, he installed an Adventure Trailers Overland Habitat camper, and organized the interior with a series of Wolf Packs, a Yeti cooler, and a few Triple Aught Design duffels. Thoughtful details continue to the cab, with a Rammounted navigation iPad, sPod control panel to operate auxiliary lights, a simplex VHF radio, and a Sony head unit. This is easily a vehicle that can be lived out of for days or weeks at a time.

Overall, the project is an impressive reflection of TAV’s capabilities and Walt’s attention to detail. It was built to honor a beloved family member, while also remembering a fallen hero. The result is unconventional for most overland builds, but reflects what is possible when extreme technical terrain capability is a critical design consideration. I see it as a combination of overlander, rock-crawler, and high-speed desert sled, exhibiting a wide range of capability and preparedness for service—much like Walt and Vincent.

The stance and matte finish of the TAV Tacoma look both serious and functional, ready for almost any adventure.

SUSPENSION AND DRIVE 5.29 Nitro Gear axle gearing Ford Currie 9-inch rear axle with air locker Front air locker and RCV axle shafts Total Chaos 3.5+ inch travel control arms King coilers with 700-pound coil spring, cooling fins, and valve adjuster King triple bypass secondary shock with bypass tube adjuster knobs and cooling fins TAV-spec Alcan leaf springs, 800+ pounds over stock capacity Firestone floating airbag kit, modified Total Chaos rear shock relocation kit King 12 x 2.5-inch smooth body shock with remote reservoir and valve adjuster King 2 x 2.5-inch air bump Total Chaos air bump mount Archive Garage Hammer shackle and Hammer shackle hanger with crossbar U-bolt flip kit modified for air bump strike pad WHEELS AND TIRES 17/8.5 VTX Rogue wheels 37/12.5R17 Toyo mud-terrain tires RECOVERY AND ARMOR Pelfreybilt front aluminum bumper CBI Offroad rear bumper RCI rock sliders RCI aluminum IFS, transmission, transfer case, and fuel tank skid plates Baja Designs LP9, white squadron pro, and 20-inch S8 light bar, amber ComeUp winch 9.5 RS Factor 55 Ultra hook and 1-inch hawse fairlead MaxTrax recovery devices, four Prinsu Design Studio short roof rack ACCESSORIES AND UPGRADES A/T Overland Habitat camper Off-Grid Engineering dual battery kit Dual Odyssey 34/78 PC1500 batteries sPOD source switch panel ARB compressor for lockers

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Can You Hear Me Now? Proven and affordable methods to stay connected while traveling.

By Chris Cordes and Scott Brady

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e live in an age of constant connectivity. Emails, phone calls, social media, TV, and the internet inundate nearly every moment of our lives. With so much emphasis on modern technology, it’s little wonder we often look to nature for an escape—opportunities to ditch the devices and disconnect.

Despite the downsides, technology has also made exploring our world easier and safer than ever before. We can follow GPS tracks down secluded and confusing trails without the worry of getting lost; send real-time location updates to family and friends; instantly call for help via satellite; and for an ever-growing percentage of the workforce, complete our jobs without ever stepping foot in an office. Ironically, the technology we are trying to escape is making it easier than ever to spend more time outdoors. With that in mind, here are our favorite ways to stay connected on the road for work, play, and emergencies.

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EDITOR’S NOTE Although the field of satellite internet has rapidly improved through the years, we felt it was still too bulky and cost-prohibitive. Instead, we’ve focused on realistic options that almost anyone can afford.

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GARMIN | INREACH

PROS Global connectivity with no cell signal required Can send SOS in emergency Tracking and updates for friends and family Built-in GPS CONS Monthly fees Upfront cost Limited basic text communication

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he Garmin InReach is a satellite device that can send and receive text messages, display GPS for navigation, check the weather, track your position, and send SOS calls in the event of an emergency. It functions on the Iridium satellite network for reliable coverage anywhere in the world and was designed with outdoor enthusiasts in mind, featuring a water and shockproof body and an impressive battery life. It cannot browse the web, make calls, or help you work remotely in any way, but for an affordable monthly plan, it ensures you are never left stranded without help.

I bought my first InReach before heading to Australia last year, and it has since become the single most important tool I carry on any trip. It’s a doctor, mechanic, meteorologist, and a rescue team all rolled into one, thanks to its ability to send two-way texts to family and friends and an SOS button linked to a 24/7 global monitoring and response center (GEOS). Think of the InReach as a safety net for the unexpected—a lifeline to pull you through when you need it most.

But it’s more than just a button for your worst-case scenario. A simple text

can solve the vast majority of problems we encounter in the field, and the Garmin offers you that middle ground. I have used the text function to ask friends for help diagnosing car problems, Googling health concerns, and even confirming that I locked the door to my apartment. I once coordinated with another InReach user when neither of us had a signal, and use the device’s messages to avoid texting fees on my phone while overseas. The applications are practically endless.

It’s not something I’d want to use as a primary form of communication on a regular basis. The interface can be clunky, text messages can take several minutes to send, and the messages themselves are limited to 160 characters. Garmin’s Earthmate app makes things easier by allowing you to compose messages from a paired phone instead of the device itself but is nothing to write home about. The InReach also lacks any ability to access email, the web, or make phone calls, rendering it irrelevant for working remotely.

Still, with a 30-day battery life in extended tracking mode, three-year battery life when turned off, and global satellite coverage in all weather conditions, no overlander should leave home without it. I chose the Expedition plan, which fetches $50 a month, and includes unlimited text messages, tracking points, location pings, basic weather checks, and SOS calls. $349-449, $12-100/MONTH | GARMIN.COM

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WILSON ELECTRONICS | WEBOOST DRIVE 4-GX AND REACH

PROS Increases data speed Works for all carriers No monthly fees Works internationally CONS Magnetic antenna can fall off Internal antenna has limited range Fairly expensive upfront cost

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he Drive 4-GX and Reach are cell phone boosters designed to extend the usable range of cell service— perfect for everything from working on the road to downloading those offline maps you forgot to grab. They are not a form of emergency communication with guaranteed service, rather a way to make phone calls and access the web when farther from civilization.

I’ve used a combination of the 4GX and Reach devices for over a year now while living and working from the road, and have tested them coast to coast. Each device works by using an external antenna to receive a wireless signal, boosting it up to 32 times through a smaller internal antenna and control box mounted inside your vehicle. This combination will extend cellular signal range, improve call quality, give you faster data downloads, and extend your battery up to two hours in weak-signal areas by making it easier for your phone to find service. The Drive Reach, their newest and strongest booster yet, claims to extend cell coverage up to 60 percent farther from towers than their previous models. Both the 4GX and Reach systems work for all carriers,

all cellular devices, and in foreign countries with no monthly fees.

Although the advantages are negligible in cities where the service is already good, it was easy to see the gains in both speed and reception once out of town. After setting up camp in a remote location, my phone often indicates only a single bar of service, just enough to send and receive text messages with some patience and no small degree of persistence.

However, turning the WeBoost on reliably delivers one to two additional bars, sometimes even three, which not only enables making calls, but loading web pages, and occasionally streaming videos.

With no service, the WeBoost sometimes gives a single bar to at least send texts, though it is far from guaranteed.

These systems function by boosting existing service, and will not create cell service where there is none. Don’t expect to be surfing the web 100 miles from town in a slot canyon, and don’t rely on these boosters as your sole resource of communication in an emergency. Those sorts of tasks must be left to satellite systems.

The booster works best when your devices are within 12-24 inches of the internal antenna. Move them any farther away, and the signal boost dwindles exponentially. The external magnetic antenna is prone to falling off the vehicle while off pavement due to vibration.

Fortunately, this can be fixed by upgrading to their 4G-OTR truck edition antenna which has the additional benefit of improving reception, making it a win all around. $449/4GX, $499/DRIVE REACH, $0/MONTH | WEBOOST.COM

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VERIZON, SPRINT, ATT | HOTSPOTS PLUS NETGEAR MIMO ANTENNA

PROS Provides additional data Purchasing outside your cell-phone provider diversifies coverage Can be paired with NetGear antenna for improved service Prevents accidental data overages on phone CONS Monthly fees Data limits

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otspots are essentially mobile WiFi stations powered off of cellular networks like ATT, Sprint, and Verizon. About the size of a deck of cards, they pull cellular data via an internal antenna much like a phone. The difference is that they then project it back out as wireless internet for your computers, tablets, and other devices. Hotspots require a monthly fee but offer travelers significant advantages over using the hotspots built into their phones—the largest of which is the ability to mix and match carriers to fill coverage gaps.

Mobile hotspots are a bit of a pain, though. Each carrier’s plans are different, promotional rates can vary widely from the actual price you’ll pay, and “unlimited plans” are rarely so thanks to gimmicks like data throttling. Despite the annoying bureaucracy encountered each time I deal with these companies, this technology is a necessary evil for digital nomads. When compared to a standard cell-phonebased hotspot, they drop fewer connections when paired to multiple devices and don’t require you to drain your phone’s battery. Given that they carry a separate plan from your phone, the chance of accidentally burning through the data you

rely on for daily tasks like navigation is eliminated. Those factors alone make them worth it, but their usefulness expands to weekend warriors as well due to their ability to diversify coverage.

Most of us have experienced a coverage gap firsthand. If you need to check an email, download a permit, or make a quick call, that lack of service could leave you chasing a signal across a desert.

Hotspots can help because they are often based on month-to-month plans and don’t require a cell-phone plan with that provider. You can buy a Verizon hotspot to go along with your ATT phone, thus filling some of the gaps on your coverage map. When traveling, I carry three different hotspots at a time, and it’s rare to find myself in a location where at least one doesn’t have service.

Many hotspots have built-in TS9 ports in their base, allowing you to pair them with an external antenna to dramatically boost signal strength. I have been using a NetGear Mimo antenna and often find it is nearly as effective as the WeBoost devices when properly deployed—the cost is a bargain at $35.

The catch is that the antenna must be placed facing roughly toward the cell tower for maximum efficiency, and that can be difficult at times. The big drawback to hotspots is generally cost. But if you’re working on the road or burn a lot of phone data, they make sense. $100-500, $30-75/MONTH, $35 NETGEAR ANTENNA | NETGEAR.COM

SKYROAM | SOLIS

PROS Unlimited data No additional cost for traveling internationally No switching SIM cards 16+ hour WiFi/6000 mAh power bank for charging devices CONS Doesn’t disclose which carriers it uses Service not always great in backcountry Unclear service “slowdown”

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his 4G LTE hotspot is marketed directly at travelers. Instead of using a specific cellular provider, Skyroam uses virtual SIM technology to deliver local data internationally without changing your SIM card. This gives you connectivity in over 130 countries without a contract and for a reasonable price.

It can be paired with unlimited data, and internet access can be purchased as needed.

I ordered my Solis as any customer would online, and received it just two days later along with an email containing my subscription code. There were clear instructions on the box, and as an added bonus, the device was wrapped in stepby-step stickers. The activation requires the device to be in range of cell service, but the pairing process was straightforward.

Skyroam’s design team kept things simple. It features just two buttons, one for power and one for pairing. Since you can control the device through an app, the screen was ditched to reduce complexity and simultaneously extend battery life. Integrated lights tell you the status of your connection, how much battery you have remaining, and if your Solis is having any problems.

The Solis stands out as an international travel platform, but I had three big questions for folks wanting to use it in the US and Canada: What networks does it run off of? Will Skyroam throttle your data? And if so, at what point?

Although Skyroam isn’t allowed to disclose which providers they partner with in the event that they change, we used speedtest.net to learn that the Skyroam system is using the T-Mobile network in the United States and Rogers in Canada. Both networks have proven reliable in testing, with no dropped connections, odd glitches, or device errors of any kind. Download speeds ranged between 7 and 40 mbps depending on location, consistent with other hotspots I’ve used.

I have not yet had the chance to test the Solis out West.

Skyroam’s data is unlimited, but they do have a fair use policy, indicating their network is a “limited resource.” Customers who take a disproportionately high amount of data may experience reduced network speeds based on location and service. In other words, they will slow your data down, though less so than the throttling of other carriers. The trouble is that there’s no way to know how much data will cause you to hit this limit, or how much you’ve used up. Thankfully, that slowdown limit resets every 24 hours, and you can get around it entirely by paying their $9/GB plan. $149, $99 UNLIMITED DATA/MONTH OR $9 PER DAY/UNLIMITED DATA PASS OR $9/GB | SKYROAM.COM

EDITOR’S NOTE Updated versions called the Solis Lite and Solis X are now available and have even better performance.

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IRIDIUM | GO

PROS Works anywhere on the planet, including both poles Pairs with most smartphones Provides voice, text, data, and SOS globally CONS Requires a (mostly) clear view of the sky Extremely slow data speeds Expensive unit and monthly data plans

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his device is made for the overlander that spends extended periods outside of cellular coverage, where the ability to send and receive emails, access limited browser capability, and make phone calls is critical. The Go is a full global satellite solution for voice, text, data, and SOS service.

There are many scenarios during overland travel where cell coverage simply does not exist (despite the gain of the antenna), or communications require more than 160 character messages. During my crossing of Greenland in 2018, we required that type of service: sending and receiving emails, making phone calls, or uploading images to the office back home. To achieve this goal, we brought along an Iridium Go, and each vehicle also had an InReach for backup SOS and car-to-car communication. The performance of the Go unit was impressive, aided by the unobscured sky and high elevation. Arctic Trucks also installed a high-gain antenna to aid with improving the signal to noise ratio.

The Iridium Go is notably small, just larger than the palm of my hand. There is a small LCD display that shows the signal strength, how many devices are

connected, and general information like new messages, positional time, etcetera.

The speed under most conditions was recorded around 2-2.4 kbps, which is a very slow “dial-up.” As a result, all connected devices run through an app portal that allows for very low bandwidth activities like social media updates, basic email, and the transfer of small images.

What I appreciated most was the ability to also make voice calls, which can greatly expedite solving problems in the field and ensure a higher likelihood that the message is understood. For example, we had a fuel cache dropped at an incorrect location, and resolution could only come properly via a call. Overall, I found the voice quality to be quite good, with calls rarely dropped.

There are a few issues with the device, principally the expense of operating it, making calls, and sending SMS messages. There are prepaid SIM cards, but they expire after only six months or a year, which I have a strong ethical objection to. Just imagine someone having a SIM card full of minutes and not being able to make a distress call because they expired the week before. There are monthly programs available, but the only ones worth using in the field can be well over $100 per month. However, there are few tools on the market that provide this level of connectivity in this price range. (SB) $859, $53/MONTH BASIC SERVICE, $135/UNLIMITED DATA | IRIDIUM.COM

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Burundi Beckons This seldom-visited country reveals the secret to happiness, deep in the heart of Africa.

By Dan Grec

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explored the African continent for three years and spent an immense amount of time pondering the significant differences between “our” world and the Africa I came to know.

There are a host of obvious differences: in Africa, roads, electricity, and running water can be very spotty; military personnel armed to the teeth are an everyday sight; and the weather is reliably very hot and often humid—except when torrential downpours last months and rainfall is measured in feet rather than inches. These are the things that become apparent in one’s first days and weeks on the continent.

But there is something more. Something that took months to feel and notice, and only after I looked past the physical differences. Africans seem to know something about life we have forgotten, and daily life is different in a very good way. I became determined to uncover this something and vowed not to leave Africa until it was revealed.

BURUNDI BECKONS At just under 11,000 square miles, Burundi is the fifth smallest country on continental Africa and is seldom visited by foreigners. It lies in the centre of the continent and is torn between its French-speaking, West African neighbour, the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), and its more British-influenced neighbours, Rwanda and Tanzania, to the north and east respectively.

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Full of curiosity about this unknown country, I was welcomed at the Burundi embassy in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania. A one-month visa costs $90, and must be applied for two weeks in advance; this is in stark contrast to the rest of Southern and Eastern Africa where visas are easily obtained at land borders in less than five minutes, and is more reminiscent of West African policies.

The ambassador welcomed me into his fastidiously clean and modern office. I couldn’t help but notice the classical music attempting to drown out the low hum of the air conditioning fighting to keep the humidity in check. We got to chatting, and after flicking through my passport, he asked about my home country of Australia, somewhere he has always wanted to visit.

He asked about the people, and how life is Down Under.

I was torn with which response to give and felt compelled to tell the truth. I explained that Australians are friendly and easygoing, but unfortunately, they just don’t have time to spare.

They’re all busy with work and responsibilities, living their lives by the clock, and Australians don’t chat in the street like the Africans I have come to admire.

The ambassador listened attentively, disappointment radiating in his eyes. In Burundi, he explained, everyone knows their neighbours, and everyone is part of a tight-knit community. In times of need, the group pulls together to help anyone that is struggling, and that’s what makes Burundi so special. It doesn’t

103 Clockwise from top right: The regional capital of Gitega is vibrant and bustling. Small wooden bridges are always nerve-racking. Insects of all kinds thrive in the intense humidity. Fishermen in the early morning mist over Lake Tanganyika. Curious children are always quick to laugh and smile. Opposite: Mighty Kilimanjaro makes its presence felt. Opening spread: Being close to the equator, much of Burundi is made up of dense jungle.

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have the best infrastructure or shiny shopping malls, but it does have people who have time for and care deeply about those around them.

He explained Burundi’s troubled past and its continued struggles with extreme poverty and lack of infrastructure. Even so, he proudly added, Burundi has opened its borders to those in need and is currently home to tens of thousands of refugees from neighbouring DRC who are fleeing violence and political unrest.

I thanked the ambassador for his time, leaving the embassy with a sense of excitement for the opportunity that lay ahead.

With vehicles being prohibitively expensive, foot traffic is dense in towns and cities.

BORDER HICCUPS A month later, I climbed up into an unexpected mountain range and drove out of Tanzania through enormous steel gates.

I immediately realized I had driven back into the thick of West Africa, and my sense of déjà vu was unmistakable. Thousands of brightly dressed people milled about Burundi doesn’t have carrying everything imaginable, mostly the best infrastructure or on their heads. Hundreds of overloaded shiny shopping malls, trucks waited in a long line, and soon but it does have people there was a stream of men running who have time for and alongside the Jeep, trying to sell me care deeply about all manner of cheap Chinese plastic those around them. things. To top it off, a man in a military uniform directed me to a small shack serving as an Ebola check station. I had my temperature taken, and my yellow fever vaccination confirmed before I was allowed to proceed. With everyone speaking French, I found myself struggling to acclimatize back into a world that was so familiar not long ago.

Very quickly, I realized just how developed the East Africa I had been exploring for the last year was. Speaking English, staying in nice campgrounds, and shopping in modern supermarkets had spoiled me, and I knew it. Looking around, I felt as though I had driven backwards into West Africa not only in miles but also through time.

Soon I found myself outside haggling with men to change money, and a crowd formed at my driver’s door. As per usual, the big numbers relayed in French presented a challenge for me, and I felt vulnerable holding a huge wad of cash along with all my irreplaceable documents. I never once had the slightest problem exchanging money at the borders in Africa, though I always made sure to keep my guard up and eyes open. I blocked the door with my body and put my documents on the seat before locking and slamming the door—and then immediately knew what I had done. Looking through the window, I saw the keys dangling from the glovebox lock. For the first time in over a decade, I locked the keys inside my vehicle. If there were a list of places I didn’t ever want that to happen, a bustling international border between two African countries would be at the top.

A moment of stress passed before I put my contingency plan into action. Almost three years prior, I secured a spare key to the underside of the Jeep. There was no shortage of funny looks as I crawled underneath the vehicle to try and extract it from the now permanent layer of rock-like mud. I was relieved to see the key still in place, and snapping the zip tie securing it to the underbody was no problem. The extra key is not electronic, so the OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

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alarm sounded when I unlocked and opened the door, causing bystanders to jump back a pace. After retrieving the electronic key from inside, I turned off the alarm and relocked the doors before getting down to business, exchanging one heaping stack of grubby bills for another.

An hour later, I moved away from the border with a new stamp in my passport and new customs paperwork for the Jeep.

I was impressed to see multiple signs encouraging me to drive on the right; it was the first time I had done so since leaving Angola, nine countries and 24,000 miles ago.

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THE FUNDAMENTALS OF LIFE AND HAPPINESS I’m always a little unsure on my first night in a new country, and so I got a cheap room in a large guesthouse, only remembering the French word for room at the last second. Within the hour, a torrential downpour let fly—the first of the season I was told— which the locals were pleased to see. This was not the first time I had brought the rains, and the hotel owner smiled broadly as he nicknamed me the rainmaker.

I ordered a beer and struck up a conversation with a friendly uniformed military man also enjoying the ice-cold local brew. He was excited to learn that I was a tourist interested in Burundi—not an everyday occurrence. His words soon began to slur, and I couldn’t help but notice he finished four large beers in the time I finished one, all while nursing a battered old AK47 across his knees.

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Nearby, a man overheard our conversation and eagerly joined in. James was from South Kivu in the DRC, and proud to say his impeccable English was self-taught. In just a few minutes, I realized that James had seen and lived more in his 35 years than most will in their life. We chatted about the DRC and Burundi at length, and his insight blew me away.

What James explained was so simple, I found it hard to believe that I had missed it before now, especially since it mirrored what the ambassador had implied. Perhaps it just needed time to sink in. People in Africa think about and focus on people. Their entire world is family and friends, and those nearby in their immediate community. Be it good times or bad, they are there for each other, and always treat each other with the utmost respect and courtesy.

The problem with our “developed” world, said James, is that people have forgotten about those around them, and instead focus on money and possessions. Because our world revolves around material consumption and the drive to acquire more wealth, we have abandoned the fundamentals of life and happiness. Too often we hear about a billionaire slashing the wages of low-paid employees, or those that have never even met their immediate neighbours. It’s a sad reality that we have left out such a crucial piece of life. In Africa, everyone seems to treat each other with appreciation and genuinely care about those around them.

The joy and sense of wellbeing this brings is on display every day.

BEAUTIFUL BURUNDI I had been bumping along in first gear for the better part of an hour when I finally decided to give up. I was technically driving on a paved road, though I wished it wasn’t. The pavement was so broken, and the potholes so deep I would have made much faster progress if the whole surface had been gravel.

Even with the rain, the mud would have been better than halfpavement potholes.

Reluctantly, I pulled over and got out to air down my tyres.

Yes, that’s right. The surface was so bad, it became necessary to air down my tyres on a paved road—and not just any road, but the main north–south highway leading directly into the capital of Bujumbura. I reminded myself that slowing down to the local pace of life was the best way to experience my immediate surroundings. Outside the Jeep, no less than five people on bicycles stopped to ask if I needed The surface was so bad, any help. it became necessary to air While moving about, I made down my tyres on a paved a point in visiting the few known road—and not just any tourist attractions, and ventured off road, but the main northto find some of my own. Notably, south highway leading Burundi claims the southernmost directly into the capital of source of the Nile River. From the Bujumbura. top of a small hill, water running off one side finds its way to the most mighty of all, the Congo River. Water bubbling from a small spring on the other side forms the Nile and flows into the Mediterranean at Alexandria in Egypt. It was hard to believe the water trickling from the mountainside led to my ultimate destination, still 4,500 miles distant as the crow flies.

Nearby, I located the sublime wilderness hot spring at Muhweza, easily the best one I’d found in all of Africa. The spring is set in a lush green valley, and I noted a distinct lack of trash. The crystal clear water was the perfect soaking temperature, and I spent hours in the late morning washing away the miles.

Later in the afternoon, I wound down from the mountains and dropped directly onto the shore of stunning Lake Tanganyika. This enormous body of water is the second-deepest and second-largest on the planet by volume. It’s almost 5,000 feet deep and is the centre of life for everyone that lives nearby. Fishermen head out daily before sunrise and return each night to a stunning sunset backdrop.

Camping on the sandy shore, I asked a caretaker if it was safe to swim here. He assured me twice that it was, and I confirmed that there were no crocs or hippos. These words are not complicated in French (crocodile and hippopotame), and I’m confident I completely understood his reply.

Feeling good about the situation, I dove in for a refreshing solitary swim just as the sun kissed the lake, streaking red over the mountains of the DRC on the far shore. I thoroughly enjoyed the peace and quiet, which can be hard to come by in Africa, alone with my thoughts for the first time in what felt like months.

In the morning, I was dismayed to see the sandy beach littered with the remains of what can only have been a mighty hippo celebration. They obviously came ashore and crossed the

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pedestrians, and it’s refreshing to see vehicles continually being held up by foot traffic. With such a scarcity of vehicles, there is also no need for a complicated infrastructure; I explored the country extensively for two weeks before seeing my first traffic lights in the capital city.

The consequences of this lack of motorized transportation are immediately recognizable: with the throng moving so slowly, they all stop to chat in the street, greet their neighbours, and catch up on the latest goings-on. It looks as if everyone has ample time, and I never met or observed a person who appeared to be in the slightest rush.

sandy beach to dine on the tasty green grass the caretaker was now watering. When I asked about the hippo tracks, he grinned widely. Sure, he said, they only come onshore at night. I was silly to think I had been alone for the swim after all.

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THE SIMPLE LIFE As I wound through the mountains of Northern and Eastern Burundi, it soon became evident farming is central to life here. The valleys I passed through were heavily cultivated, always structured around a pristine trickling stream or river. The fields are immaculately kept, and there were more varieties of beans and greens than I could identify.

I wondered if this type of life played a role in the disposition of the cheery Burundians I kept meeting. Each day, they toiled in the field with their family Burundians have such and neighbours, free from matewarmth; I struggled to rial possessions like television and see how an Africa without touchscreen phones, and also free Burundi could survive from the mental burdens of a long any more than a human commute and office politics. The without a heart. weather is harsh, and the labor no doubt hard, though every single person smiles and seems genuinely content to be doing exactly what they are at the moment.

It was plain to see these fields had been here for a very, very long time. With no machinery or modern farming practices in sight, I contemplated if this scene would have been any different hundreds or even thousands of years ago. With the languid pace of development here, these people have a genuine and tangible connection to their ancestors and their sense of purpose is clear.

In general, roads in Burundi are in good condition, though vehicles are few and far between. Because Burundi is landlocked, it must import everything through neighbouring countries, which all add outrageous taxes. A local explained that while it’s possible to get a car for $500 in the US, the absolute cheapest rust bucket here starts at $5,000. Only the very rich can afford vehicles, and virtually everyone moves about on foot or bicycle. Even in the largest cities, the streets are choked with

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ATTRACTING ATTENTION Throughout Africa, my Jeep drew a lot of attention, so I was used to a crowd and a peppering of friendly questions everywhere I went. Here in Burundi, the curiosity and awe increased tenfold, and a gas stop would turn into a half hour of questions and answers. Not being used to tourists, the people were eager to hear about the outside world and to inspect my Jeep.

The men always wanted to know the pertinent details: how big was the engine, how fast could it go, and was it, in fact, four-wheel drive? I also had to confirm multiple times that the engine runs on gas, not diesel. The men here had never seen a non-diesel 4WD vehicle and were shocked to learn such a thing even existed. All agreed it to be a better option because it must have more power and therefore has a higher top speed. I didn’t have the heart to correct them on these minor misconceptions.

COMMUNITY IS THE CENTRE OF EVERYTHING Burundi’s fledgling tourism industry bills itself as the “Heart of Africa,” and now I understand why. More than just being geographically at the centre of the continent, Burundi’s people and their unmistakable sense of community brings to mind an emotional centre. Burundians have such warmth; I struggled to see how an Africa without Burundi could survive any more than a human without a heart.

It’s easy to point out and see the physical differences between our world and Africa. Much like Dorothy, who finds herself in the unfamiliar Oz, we only need to open our eyes to realize we are a long way from Kansas. Less obvious, but equally important, are the emotional differences. In our world, the primary focus is on work, money, and possessions; we have forgotten what we should be focusing on—the people immediately surrounding us.

Africa taught me more than I could ever write in entire volumes and has changed me in ways I am still discovering. There is one lesson learned I am determined to incorporate into my life as long as I live: once we treat people like people, everything else falls into place.

My wooden snake on the dashboard unnerved locals all across Africa.

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FROM THE DESK OF TOM SHEPPARD—RAW AND UNABRIDGED

Suzuki Jimny Tread lightly. And simply.

Refreshing, isn’t it?

By Tom Sheppard

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f you find the absurdity of black leather seats scaldingly hot or sticky in summer and dark-slippery-cold in winter; if the advantage of flush, pop-out door handles escapes you; if a line of 10 tiny touchscreen icons has you taking off your gloves, reaching for your spectacles, scowling in irritation while trying not to run off the road at your second attempt to hit the right one and have it register your touch; if 500 watts of ear-splitting audio is not what you’re looking for; and if a gross weight nudging 2.5 tonnes is not your target—then Suzuki’s new Jimny will bring an overdue, contented smile to replace your mounting impatience with the baubles of auto fashion.

For such is the effect of Suzuki’s breath-of-fresh-air new 4x4.

It is hard not to imagine that, in their quest for a return to reality, Suzuki’s designers didn’t high-five all round to gales of laughter when the pragmatism of their functional design philosophy begat a vehicle externally akin to a 461 G-Wagen in miniature (and 1,000 kilograms or 2,200 pounds lighter). And they weren’t that far off in terms of functionality either, albeit influenced by the need to keep the cost to sensible limits.

The cool breeze of simplicity hits you in your first hundred yards at the wheel. But Suzuki has been clever in avoiding the impression of penny-pinching frugality. Practicalities have been addressed, and the important boxes ticked—air conditioning, sat-nav, electric windows—mixed in with big door mirrors, and comfortable seats in breathable fabric that can be raised as well as slid. The rear seats fold flat and firm for a strong and practical cargo floor.

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Unlike my Renegade that allows rain to drip through slightly open windows onto the electric window controls, Suzuki has not only positioned the window switches on the centre console but provided roof rain gutters, cheekily kicked-up at the back end just like a 461. And, also like a 461, the spare wheel is hung on the robustly hinged back door; a back door that, with rear light clusters tucked away in the bumper beneath, extends full-width to match the interior and allow the largest boxes to be slid onto the folded back seats.

And—the hint of a do-ist as well as a stylist being involved— the front passenger seat backrest folds back, not forward to hit the dash. The result is the ease of being able to sleep, full-length, in the vehicle or carry 6-foot timbers alongside the driver when errands so demand.

So how big is it then? Depending on whose dimensions summary you have turned up, the new Jimny is 233 millimeters (9.2 inches) shorter and 145 millimeters (5.7 inches) narrower than a two-door classic Land Rover Defender. It’s 625 millimeters (24.6 inches) shorter and 230 millimeters (9 inches) narrower than a 2-door Jeep Wrangler Sahara. Although, if they were good friends, you could squeeze three into the back row of a Wrangler or Defender, all three vehicles are basically comfortable four-seaters in normal passenger mode.

The underbelly ramp angle on the Jimny is 28 degrees against the 2-door, new Defender’s 31 degrees and the Wrangler Sahara’s approximate 25 degrees. Such angles are relevant to off-pavement capability but must also be viewed in the light of wheel and tyre

sizes. The Jimny loses out a little on 15-inch wheels with (standard) 195/80R15 tyres, albeit its 210 millimeters (8.3 inches) under-diff ground clearance was only 5 millimeters less than the Defender on slightly oversized 7.50/C16 tyres. The Wrangler, on 17-inch wheels, beat it by a thumb-knuckle with 246 millimeters (9.69 inches) quoted.

If the dimensions don’t say enough, weight is an eyebrow raiser. Gross weights (GVW) and max payloads in kilos respectively are 2,400/717 kilograms for the Defender 90; 2,286/433 kilograms for the less hard-work focused Wrangler Sahara. The Jimny is more than 1,000 kilograms (2,205 pounds) lighter than those two to yield a loaded gross weight of only 1,435 kilograms (3,164 pounds), of which 300 kilograms (660 pounds) is payload.

Swaggering copy in tearaway motoring journals misguidedly comment on the Jimny’s slight lean-on cornering and its supple suspension, not realising this is another of its strong points off pavement. An anti-roll bar (sway bar) is fitted but has been finely judged with the off-road/on-road balance in mind.

SO, WHAT’S IT LIKE? With the UK allocation of Jimnys already sold out and not due for replenishment “until 2020” (yes, that vague), I was lucky to obtain a week’s loan of a press vehicle with a 4-speed Aisin automatic transmission and essentially normal, production-standard road tyres. And just enough time for the off-road course in the next county before heading west for some wild camping.

The Jimny has selectable 4x4, no centre differential, auto-

locking freewheel front hubs and, in effect (bearing in mind the manual and auto versions), a 2-speed transfer gearbox giving the standard 2H, 4H, and 4L drive options. Axle differentials are open but anti-wheelspin is scarcely identifiable in high range and amounts principally to some reducIt is hard not to imagine tion in engine torque. The handbrake, that Suzuki’s designers mercifully, is a simple manual lever didn’t high-five all round just like grandpa used. Power steering to gales of laughter with constant-velocity, front-wheel when the pragmatism of drive-shaft joints is provided for their functional design smooth steering feel in 4x4 and gives philosophy begat a vehicle the drive shafts an easier time. externally akin to a 461 The SZ4 base version Jimny has G-Wagen in miniature. aircon, cruise control, ABS, and a CD tuner. The SZ5 adds same-size 15-inch alloy wheels, navigation, and DAB radio on a centre screen, heated front seats, and LED headlights with washers.

Tanks—yes, heavy, tracked military transport of the unstoppable kind—off road, seem to turn fore-and-aft pitching into an extravagant ballet. In the process, when going over humps, they plunge vigorously over the far side to thrust their multi-tonne heft downhill to dig a deeper dip than was there before. Such were The United Kingdom, small and overcrowded, is lucky to have Wales as part of it—hills, dales, rivers, a mountain or two, and in many areas, space away from the hustle and bustle of towns and traffic. Opening page: Solid architecture—the Jimny arrives at the Glanusk Estate in South Wales.

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the users of our target off-course before it became civilianised and provided owners the graded opportunity to see what their wagon could really do off pavement. The result gave enough climbs, dips, belly scratching, and wheel-spinning diagonal hump-crossing to exercise any self-respecting off-road 4x4 and its driveline.

Nimble, sprightly even, best describes the Jimny’s despatch of such terrain. Unlike the 461, and all other G-Wagens, the new Jimny, as mentioned above, does not come with axle diff locks to lock left and right drive shafts together. Instead, like close to 99 percent of other 4x4s, it has braked-wheel traction control in which excessive wheelspin of any single wheel is sensed by the wheel-speed sensors in Overall, the lightweight the ABS brakes and compared to the joyous agility of the overall speed of the vehicle. When this Jimny was the lasting happens, some finely calibrated—i.e., impression. not full-whack-thump—brake is applied automatically to the excessively eager wheel. See below how Bentley, (yes, Bentley) addresses this problem.

Time to restate some well-enough-known but seldom-faced facts. Braked-wheel traction control, utilising the hardware and software of an already installed ABS anti-skid brake system, is an inexpensive part substitute for cross-axle diff locks where the left and right drive shafts are actually locked together. Properly programmed and safeguarded, traction control systems can do a pretty effective job of quenching wheelspin, thus feeding torque to the wheel that has grip. Individual manufacturers approach traction control in different ways. (Some disgracefully “brochurize” their system features by actually calling them “diff locks” when they aren’t.)

As we’re on the subject, a lifted, free-spinning wheel suddenly hitting the ground can suffer shattering shock loads; enough to snap a drive shaft like a cold carrot—as many past Defender users might attest. A spin-off advantage (as you might say) of braked-wheel traction control is that it will, in many cases, ensure the wheel does not return to earth at a high rate of spin.

(BMW/Bentley’s Bentayga, with large heavy wheels, big tyres, and a spectacularly quick spin arrest, addresses the problem in depth and has a torsional shock absorber at each wheel plus a throttle back-off to protect its drive shafts from such torture.)

Full axle-diff-lock-equipped drivelines, however, can also experience torsional torment (and serious handling problems akin to frozen steering) if left engaged during sharp turns on hard, grippy pavement; outer wheels have to travel farther than the inner wheels and can’t if the axle diff is locked up. Front wheels and rear wheels, too, travel different distances in sharp turns so the same “transmission windup” can affect non-difflock equipped vehicles if there is no centre differential to promote calm. (As mentioned, the Jimny has no centre diff.)

Such diff-lock drivelines are usually built to withstand occasional mishandling, like forgetting to disengage all diff locks (or going into 2H) on firm ground, but the frozen steering (very high or almost immovable steering) feedback cannot be avoided. Nevertheless, for serious, prolonged, and demanding off-pavement work, selectable axle and centre diff locks (and a thinking, sympathetic driver) are best. Yes, G-Wagen 461 et seq.

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The braked-wheel, traction-control, diff-lock substitute, termed TCS—traction control system on the Jimny—has, of course, first to experience some wheelspin before it can be quenched. In order that the speed difference between the front wheels does not initiate early single-wheel braking when, for instance, doing a sharp turn in a parking lot, many TCSs are programmed to not operate at very low speeds. They are set up to only function above certain engine rpm—as I found, with a duo of Jeep UK techies on hand to analyse the setup on the Renegade on the same course. A shame that the delicate offroad approach is sacrificed to the heavy footed among us.

The Jimny braked-wheel traction control gurus, though, took a slightly different approach and designed separate triggering criteria for operation in high and low range. In high range, a slight reduction in engine torque takes place with minor wheel braking; neither aspect is noticeable but takes care of sharp 4H turns on hard pavement. In low range, however, sufficient wheel braking is apparent after a slight delay to slow the spinning wheel and restore useful torque to its companion on the other side of the axle. In practical terms, traction control works identifiably only in low range.

Overall, the lightweight joyous agility of the Jimny was the lasting impression. ( Joyous? Subjectively, yes.)

THE SMALLEST RV? So far, proven at the off-road course on a sunny winter’s morn not far from home, it was now time to try some camping in wet-and-hilly Wales, off there to the west. Sunshine was exchanged for misty low clouds, some rather tentative snow, and a couple of cold but comfortable nights (sleeping full length in a sleeping bag) in the—yes, adequately roomy—Jimny.

Fuel first. Forty litres, the Jimny’s tank capacity, is only 10.6 US gallons. Not transcontinental but, with better than 37 mpg (Brit gallons) from the nicely responsive 1462cc petrol engine, not as worrying as it sounds. UK motorways have three lanes one way and three lanes the other. Two hundred miles of this at a leisurely 55-60 mph was no problem, comfort and ergonomics well addressed, and my still-amazing USB-fed Garmin Montana 600 logging everything you could possibly want to log.

My early notes say the poor little 4-speed Aisin automatic transmission (3-speed plus deselectable overdrive) desperately needs to be a 6-speed. The change from fourth down to third gear is accompanied by engine roar that’s hard to ignore. Admitting that my mechanical sympathy may be more finely tuned than that of many, I cringed a little every time I had to press harder on the throttle and forced a down-change. Nevertheless, it later dawned on me that, despite the mechanical upheaval going on, the gear change was still nicely smooth. If you turned the radio up loud enough you didn’t register it at all. Hmm, I still hope Aisin can produce a compact-enough 6-speed before too long.

For many moons, my El Dorado has had the ability to change easily from low to high range on the move. Why? If you’ve ever been in deep, soft sand you don’t have to ask—you need high range but dare not stop to engage it. Sure, with a lot of white-knuckle (the book says don’t) tap dancing on the

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Clockwise from top left: Anti-wheelspin is scarcely identifiable in high range and amounts principally to some reduction in engine torque. In practical terms, braked-wheel traction control software comes to the rescue only in low range. An upright screen and well-defined hood enhance placing and visibility off pavement. Rigid axles, all-round coil springs, and a moderate-authority anti-roll bar leave enough well-judged articulation for on- and offpavement use. Down off the hills—time for bread, marmalade, and coffee. The Jimny has constant-velocity drive joints at each front wheel.

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pedals and multiple double-declutching it can be done (certainly, on the old Defender), but a simple transfer-lever-into-N-let-therevs-die and ease into high range is what you need. The G-Wagen, since time immemorial, has been able to achieve this. Land Rover woke to it in recent years. So no surprise that Suzuki, in a world used to being told to stop first, have gone along with stopping first.

The additional cost and the requisite beefing up of the driveline to accommodate the folks who get it wrong will have been a factor.

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THE CAMPING My featherweight, minimalist camping regime is a long way from the ads in US off-road magazines. No awning, no heavyweight double-decker trailer, no fridge, no chairs or table, certainly no bonfire. What did I have? A three-legged canvas stool, a lithium-ion head torch, and a magnetic rechargeable LED inspection light stuck to whatever ferrous metal it could find on the side of the wagon. The hinged, propped lid of the food box served as a low-level table, a single-burner JetBoil, and for the dining room, a hook-on table/tray in the cab over the centre console to keep spilled soup or coffee out of the transmission lever recess and switches.

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All do-able, efficient, and slick if you’re solo, as I usually am.

Not yet a top-grade masochist, I’ve been known to start the engine and blower to warm the cab for Sleeping in the Jimny a few minutes when I climb in with was simple and absurdly my soup, biscuits, and mug. comfortable. The clever Sleeping in the Jimny was simple bit is the Jimny’s backward and absurdly comfortable. The clever folding passenger seat bit is the Jimny’s backward folding giving a pretty level passenger seat giving a pretty level platform progression to platform progression to that perfectthat perfectly flat back ly flat back end, resulting from the end, resulting from the folded rear seats. folded rear seats. Not perfect enough for a comfortable night, though, and a single plywood board hooked onto the passenger grab handle (opposite, top left) gave a nicely sloping chaise longue over the back-folded passenger seat on which to put my Therm-a-Rest air mattress, anti-slip rubber mat, inflatable mini-pillow and sleeping bag. No flapping canvas in the night. Crack the left and right windows open an inch for a through-flow of fresh air, check the stars are shining out there and—comfy? Is the moon round? Let it rain, let it blow, let it snow—Zzz!

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Clockwise from top left: Central planning. Possible? Yes. Thanks to that back-folding seat. Chef at work. No trailer, no tent, no fridge, no table, no chairs. No hassle, no weight. Ah, simplicity. VIP suite: a Therm-a-Rest with non-slip mat. Doors locked, windows cracked open for ventilation—bliss.

Space and solitude at the Elan River camp. Peace! Not much snow, but there was no treatment on the mountain road. Opposite: Glanusk trap: no gumboots, no prodding stick, no winch, no second vehicle. Back off.

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Moto Maintenance An exercise in patience abroad.

By Brendon Hak Photography by Kira Hak

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Here I am, removing the fuel pump, with no one but the elephant seals to cheer me on.

Opening page: Taking a quiet moment to appreciate the parts it took so long to find.

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fter being on the road for 20 months through Latin America, when people ask me what I missed most about home, I have to answer that it’s my tools. Specifically, a shop full of tools with ample space to maintain and repair my motorcycle. Throughout our journey, it was an ongoing struggle to ensure our KTM 1290 was up to date with the maintenance. And, when disaster struck, a full-on battle to source parts and execute a repair. “I need a mechanic” is not a phrase I often speak. So, in a sense, we were on our own. This is the tale of a stubborn man’s navigation around the challenges of motorcycle maintenance abroad—struggles, victories, and acceptance.

“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of repair,” said someone, somewhere. I have always believed in that principle and set out with a hardline attitude toward maintenance.

More so than ever before, it was imperative to keep our bike running at its best. Breakdowns happen, but I’d be damned if it was going to be due to neglect. The fatal flaw in my plan was thinking that upkeep could be accomplished in the same manner that it would be at home. When you are constantly on the move, nothing is the same. All the resources I had at my disposal had been left in the rearview mirror, and a handful of what I deemed essential made its way into my panniers.

The seemingly easy tasks that revolved around maintaining my machine quickly spiraled into the same pain between my ears I got from full-on breakdowns. Why was it such a headache? Because I was spoiled living in North America—I could get that specific oil, or anything else for that matter when I needed it. The worst-case scenario was a special order and a bit of a wait, but at least I knew it was on the way. It didn’t help that there was no option to carry spares of the regularly used necessities like oil or tires. So I did my best to plan ahead, contacting companies for the items I was after. It was a coin toss, one that sometimes panned out but mostly did not.

It seemed that the moment I started looking for something, it was nowhere to be found. Until I no longer needed it, and then it would be right in front of me at every local market.

The lack of available resources was frustrating but not the end of the world. By the time we reached Colombia, my expectations had dwindled to none. I could rarely find what I needed and got quite used to our little missions into big cities for parts, somewhere we would never go otherwise.

At times though, even having my mindset in the right place wouldn’t get me through the day. There were only so many shops I could go into before losing my composure, giving up the search for a later day. Of all the resources in short supply, friendly people willing to help was never one of them. So I may have left empty-handed more times than not, but I made a lot of friends along the way.

There are a few key upgrades I did to the motorcycle before leaving to try and minimize the need for sourcing main-

tenance parts. Most of these ended up backfiring. For example, a simple one was installing a washable foam air filter, but a key ingredient needed is the air filter oil. It should have been easy to locate, but wasn’t. There were three countries in a row where I couldn’t seem to find it: Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Panama. Shops would carry foam air filters, but no oil. After what felt like a quest for the holy grail, I finally found it. But the only option was to buy it in the world’s largest aerosol can. Nevertheless, I was a happy camper and sprayed it into a water bottle. It made its way into the pannier for the long haul, as I wasn’t about to go through that again.

Once I settled into knowing that things would get done when they could, not when I wanted, life was peachy. Why stress the little things? In fact, ONCE I SETTLED why stress the big things either?

Instead, we learned how to priINTO KNOWING THAT oritize when things went sideways. THINGS WOULD GET DONE Survival was foremost because we WHEN THEY COULD, NOT were usually in the middle of noWHEN I WANTED, LIFE WAS where when it hit the fan. Water, PEACHY. WHY STRESS shelter, food—those are essentials THE LITTLE THINGS? IN when potentially marooned for a while. If I couldn’t diagnose or reFACT, WHY STRESS THE pair a problem on the side of the BIG THINGS EITHER? road, we would take baby steps to achieve resolution, finding a way to get to the next village or town, and then finding a hotel with WiFi and a spot to work.

A perfect example of this method is when some preventative maintenance left us stranded in the Peruvian jungle. We made a pit stop in Lima, Peru, since they had one of South America’s largest KTM dealers. It was a perfect opportunity to replace all the worn items and cover the basics. Fastforward through a week of remote touring which included two days to cross Peru’s coastal desert of Paracas National Reserve, and another three days to climb up and over the Andes and drop into the edge of the Amazon Basin—barren wasteland to soaring peaks, and finally thick humid rainforest. It was adventure at its finest until the bike sputtered and died—uh, oh. A couple of quick taps on the fuel pump and we were rolling again, but my mind was turning faster than the wheels. By the time it died again a few kilometers later, I had run a few possibilities through my head. Maybe a failed fuel pump? Or something to do with the filters I just replaced? Either way, it was not getting fixed here. Out came the priority checklist. After seven hours, and just before putting the tent up for the night, we secured a costly ride into the next town. We found our way to a place where I could drain the fuel and remove the pump; it turns out I had pulled a ground wire loose the previous week. Rather than kick myself for the error, I was thankful—it could have turned out very differently if that wire had come off in the desert.

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I’ve since learned how to remove the fuel pump with a full tank in the middle of a barren desert because it was my only option at the time. We had driven 125 kilometers off an already isolated highway to find a colony of elephant seals, and the bike wouldn’t start. Diagnostics led me to clogged fuel filters. I had to remove the gas tank, sandwich some plastic bags between the tank and cap assembly, then turn it all upside down to get to the pump and filters without draining the gas. It is amazing what you can do when there is no choice but to figure it out.

I’ve also had to improvise an exploded wheel bearing in the heart of the Bolivian Altiplano with nothing more than the trash lying around. And there was the time I had to painstakingly file a rounded head on a 12-millimeter bolt down to an 11-millimeter one with the file on my pocket knife just so I could change the oil. I’ve also had to jumpstart a dead battery in the desolate plains of Argentina using a couple of sad lengths of steel tie wire. The point is that you make it work with what you have, and on a motorcycle that’s not much.

However, there were times when the situation was simply beyond my capabilities; specifically, the dreaded electrical failures. In those instances, we were left with having to find a mechanic to sort it out for us.

There are two main reasons I like to stay away from the mechanic shop. First, I am stubborn. I enjoy doing the work on my motorcycle and don’t get the same satisfaction when someone else does it for me. Second, I am cheap. Long-term travel does not afford regular visits to the dealership. That being said, there is a fundamental principle behind being my own mechanic: I consistently put myself into situations where there isn’t someone else to fix it for me. It is easy to stick within your comfort zone and work on what you know how to do. But that doesn’t help you out of a jam. Years ago, I started taking on the role of maintaining my machines. It began with small, manageable tasks and slowly evolved until I could dive right into the motor. Along the way, I slowly built the confidence to keep going. That doesn’t mean I know it all, but the drive is there to figure it out. However, I am now at the crossroads of yet another facet of modern-day motorcycles— the aforementioned complex electronics. A big lesson taken from this last journey is that if I am going to ride a bike that’s littered with computer-controlled components, it is necessary to brush up on the tools and know how to maintain and repair those systems.

If I could offer a piece of advice for anyone looking to set off on a long journey in unfamiliar territories, it would be to learn how to work on your machine with the tools you’ll have at your immediate disposal, on your bike or person. If you find yourself on the side of a rocky volcano with a punctured tire, you’ll be thanking yourself if you have already changed a tire

by hand, breaking the bead with your kickstand, then resetting it with a controlled explosion. Even though during the learning stage at home, you’ll be looking at your air compressor, wondering why you’re not using it. Try leaving your nice sock- I SEPARATED MY EMOTIONS ets in the case, and start quarter FROM THE MOVING PARTS, turning every bolt you work on. If REMINDING MYSELF AT you can’t master that in the comTIMES THAT IT WAS THE fort of your garage, you’re really BIKE THAT WAS BROKEN, going to struggle when it’s pourNOT MY HEART. ing down rain, and you’re lying in the mud, or when the wind is whipping sand into your eyes. By going through the drill with limited resources in a controlled environment, you are setting the stage for success.

As I pushed my motorcycle to its limits in Latin America, repairs became commonplace. Shifting my perspective in a positive way around these issues was as big a help as it would have been to have a support vehicle and a mechanic on standby. I separated my emotions from the moving parts, reminding myself at times that it was the bike that was broken, not my heart. In the end, the hard times make for the best stories.

It didn’t matter how absurd the struggle was in the moment; we managed to find a solution. Going forward, I am keen to master the skills that can help in recurrent situations in the future, yet oddly excited to see what other mechanical trouble may come our way on the next grand adventure.

Improvising a blown wheel bearing with rubber trash and vaseline in Bolivia. Opposite: There’s only one thing better than new tire day, and that is having an indoor space to change them out.

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LIFE ON THE ROAD KELSEY HUBER

TRAVELING AS A TEAM Learn to share responsibilities, focusing on each other’s strengths for an enhanced overlanding experience.

As an instructor for various overlanding skills, I am often asked what the secret is for encouraging an unenthusiastic partner to appreciate the outdoors and how to make the overland experience enjoyable for them.

People wonder if the solution may rely somewhat on buying certain products and amenities to increase comfort while on the road. The answer is no; there is no magic secret. Your partner may never love camping, for example, or even like it, and that is okay because you love that person for many other reasons. Together you can come up with alternative solutions. If your partner has at least some interest in overlanding, then I have some tips to help their first exposures to the lifestyle be good ones.

These concepts will help you build a team that will take your adventures to the next level.

COMMUNICATION The most important strategy is to use good communication. Talk to your partner and start a conversation based on their concerns. Knowing the things that may scare, bother, or inspire them is the best way to build a foundation that will allow them to love being out in the backcountry as much as you do.

KNOWLEDGE The second-best tool is knowledge. I teach a lot of introductory classes geared toward women, and many attendees show up, saying, “My partner likes this ‘overland’ thing, so they signed me up for this class. I don’t know anything about it, but I don’t think I’m good at it.”

They are disengaged because this is not their interest and feel they are just being dragged along and are not part of forming the parameters of the experience. Most of my students leave having come full circle and are excited, engaged, and even inspired because they have the knowledge they need to participate. They can drive and spot, better understand how the vehicle works, and have the tools to be part of a team.

By not including your partner in the process, they may feel like a prisoner during your adventure. In your mind, you think the trip will be great, and the fact that they don’t have to worry about anything is a positive inducement. You will drive, set up camp, and cook—all they have to do is sit back and relax. How could they not enjoy that? Meanwhile, your partner is sitting in the passenger seat, wondering how safe the venture is. They may be in a vehicle they know nothing about, let alone have the training to understand how certain features function and when to use them. They are wondering what will become of them if something happens to you.

The dread of not knowing how to get themselves or someone else, if the need should arise, out of this situation overpowers any aspect of enjoyment they might have. If you were to include your partner in the planning

and skill portion of the journey, they could become a team player rather than merely a passenger. Consider this: would you enjoy overlanding if you were just an uninformed passenger along for the ride?

RECOGNIZE DIFFERENCES It is also sometimes hard to realize that our partners may enjoy things on different levels than we do, and again, this is where communication comes in handy. I had a guy in one of my classes who was upset because as he and his wife would drive in scenic areas, she would read. He wanTALK TO YOUR PARTNER ted her to enjoy the views as he did, AND START A CONVERSATION but she was perfectly happy reading BASED ON THEIR CONCERNS. her book. Recognizing your partner’s KNOWING THE THINGS THAT differences and acknowledging that MAY SCARE, BOTHER, OR they are okay is essential if you are to INSPIRE THEM IS THE BEST overland as a team.

TIP

WAY TO BUILD A FOUNDATION

THAT WILL ALLOW THEM TO BE PATIENT Remember to be patient LOVE BEING OUT IN THE and know that with experience comes BACKCOUNTRY AS MUCH ease and trust, and as you grow and AS YOU DO. become aligned, you will find yourselves becoming more competent and completing tougher trails together. Just as you would not expect someone to go down a black diamond run on their first day of skiing, let your partner take the time they need to build up their skills. So maybe don’t choose the Rubicon Trail for your first trip. Weekend trips building to weeklong forays will help you work through intricacies such as packing and meal planning. You will also learn where individual talents and interests fit within the team.

HARD STOP Lastly, make sure you both have the ability to pull the ripcord. Don’t be the boy who cried wolf, but if either of you says we need to go, that request should be taken seriously, and the other should be willing to leave without hesitation.

With some work and thought, traveling together is a great reward. After living out of a truck for about a year now, my husband and I have learned to be quick to communicate what we are thinking: feelings, frustrations, and concerns. When living on the road, there is no room for emotions to fester or anxieties to grow—we do not have the distractions of ordinary life. Overlanding is not for everyone, but these strategies will give your team a leg up.

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SKILLS BRYON BASS

Checking In

OVERLAND AND EXPEDITION STYLE

A look at travel safety during stays at hotels and private accommodation, with emphasis on overland vehicles and ADV motorcycles.

E

ven diehard overland travelers and expeditionary personnel will eventually need to stay at hotels, inns, or various private accommodations. You might need to overnight during the trip bookends, as you fly into a country and stage your gear, or prepare to depart back home. Arrangements can vary widely by country, continent, and culture. A concierge could also be the parking valet—the bartender, the room cleaner and the owner. Or, a cadre of uniformed staff with specific individual duties might tend to your every desire. There are fairly universal safety recommendations for tourists staying at hotels and private lodging.

Here, we go beyond common travel safety tips. The ultimate goal is to raise personal and situational awareness, safety consciousness, and health attentiveness so you can attend to your adventure.

of overland travel grasp the importance of pre-trip planning and logistics. Some are intuitive concepts, but matters can get complicated on a weekend campout or a multicountry expedition. You should, therefore, prepare various aspects in advance.

PRE-TRIP RESEARCH AND PLANNING Before being sent to conduct fieldwork for a multi-national client in Angola, I received pre-trip safety training from my boss, which consisted entirely of, “Relax, Bass.

You’ll probably get health and safety training once you’re there. It’ll be great.” When teaching corporate courses on travel-related safety, I find those familiar with any form

VEHICLE INSURANCE Make sure your vehicle or motorcycle is properly insured (carnet where appropriate), and ascertain all relevant border crossing nuances.

IMPORTANT CONTACT NUMBERS It’s recom-

mended to know the locations, contact numbers, and hours of operation of hospitals, embassies, and consulates near your route, or elsewhere in-country. We advise obtaining the local phone numbers for law enforcement, fire, and emergency medical responders. Plan your routes and alternates, as appropriate.

VACCINATIONS Ensure your International Cer-

tificate of Vaccination is current for intended destinations and transit countries, and keep both physical and electronic copies.

ITINERARY Provide others (family, office) your

general itinerary. Include photocopies of your travel documents in case they are lost.

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CONTACT INFORMATION Place a luggage tag with

contact information inside your bags in case the external one disappears in transit.

COMMUNICATION DEVICES Bring whatever com-

TIP Avoid handing over your vehicle keys to a valet. If they’re adamant, you can hand over a non-functioning one, or a valet key.

munication devices are necessary to reach the outside world: primary cell phone, alternate (inReach), contingency (vehicle VHF/UHF radio), and emergency (might be a PLB or signaling mirror). Make plans to provide predetermined updates and check-ins. Verify that your comms equipment will work once in-country, particularly satellite comms, or confirm obtaining and using local means.

Have an agreed-upon course of action if you go into radio silence with those following your trip.

TRAVEL INSURANCE We also suggest having supplemental travel insurance appropriate for your locations, activities, and pre-existing medical conditions (see Resources). It’s all giggles until a cascade of unanticipated events occurs. Unplanned medical transport can be extremely expensive and stressful.

MEDICATIONS Carry prescribed medicines in

their original, labeled containers and bring along a medical kit to address various field issues.

HOTEL RESEARCH For hotels, inns, and related

accommodations, conduct requisite online and hardcopy research in advance. In some countries or regions, large Western-branded hotels may represent a higher risk. Will “rustic yet refreshing” work for your travel party? Does “ample space for parking” apply to three Nissan Patrols, or two Fiat 500s?

Can your vehicle even reach the destination lodge in winter? Secure parking is relative, but ask if they have it, and know if there are height restrictions.

Most of this is obvious, but obtain clarity on key logistic matters in advance, have a plan B and C, and be prepared when adversity strikes.

OFF-LOAD, PARK, AND SECURE Whether rolling up to a five-star hotel in your 79-Series Land Cruiser Troopy or grinding to a dusty halt at the entrance to a family-owned lodge with a rented Defender

110, you’ll need to address primary issues that often include: • offloading certain gear • securing kit that stays on/ with the vehicle • ensuring someone maintains contact with the luggage • allowing a valet or staffer to drive and park your rig • handing over your keys • having a say as to where you can park Discuss the first three points with your travel mates in advance. Especially with a team, personal and group bag tallies help expeditiously account for luggage. If traveling solo, assess and adapt (e.g., engage a verified parking valet or desk contact for assistance parking and carrying gear). Regarding the last three points, creativity often helps. Explain that the truck is temperamental and you should park it. If a valet is insistent, tell them to climb in and show you where to park while you drive. Tip them in front of the hotel entrance.

Avoid handing over your vehicle keys.

You parked it, they probably won’t move it, and you don’t want keys floating around. If they’re adamant, you can hand over a nonfunctioning one, or a valet key (only works in the ignition and primary door locks). Regarding the dummy key, what’s the worst that can happen? They’ll find you and request relocating the truck. Shun tendering your entire key cluster, and carry a full spare set in case an expedited departure is required, or for when you need to retrieve gear and can’t find the valet.

At upscale hotels or boutique accommodation in large cities, outfitted overland vehicles can be spotted in areas reserved for fine sports cars. This is usually evidence of a savvy expedition rig owner (and beneficial, since those locations are often surveilled by various means). Other than receiving parking direction, motorcyclists usually interact less with front door meet-and-greet staff, but you’ll still need to address the other points with your two-wheeled steed.

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is good practice. It’s advisable to park motos near attendant shacks, where practical, or front entrance doors. These locations are often lit at night and under electronic surveillance and consequently, provide better theft deterrence.

When parking your vehicle, it’s best to back in, using spotters when necessary. There are various advantages. Statistically, most accidents happen when reversing from parking spots. When backed in, you’ll have eyes forward, with a windshield view of the departure direction. You can also better overHIDDEN ISNʼT THE come rear-wheel SAME AS SECURE. cheat (rear tires Take a small go-bag tracking an arc in from the vehicle the direction of containing copies of vehicle travel) to the vehicle registration, insurance, carnet, and clear nearby vehiall removable navigation cles, tight parking and communication kit. spots, and other obstacles. Naturally, this orientation lends well to expedited departures. Backed-in vehicles also convey a subtle, yet undeniable message that the machines are accounted for, and owners are aware; this can also limit theft via a rear door or truck canopy. One disadvantage is that objects like structures or vegetation can preclude access to the vehicle rear.

If equipment in and on your vehicle isn’t secured by substantial means, don’t feel bad when it gets stolen. “Hidden” isn’t the same as secured, so don’t think you’re the first person to think of a particular interior stash location. Take a small go-bag from the vehicle containing copies of the vehicle registration, insurance, carnet, and all removable navigation and communication kit. It’s usually better to park in higher visibility areas toward the facility entrance, unless security concerns or factors dictate otherwise.

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CHECKING IN AND ROOM SELECTION Stay with and keep an eye on your luggage. In higher-risk locations (or crowded front desks), it’s good practice to slide a copy of your reservation to staff instead of making loud announcements. Whether at the Four Seasons or a remote lodge, hand over a clean photocopy of your passport.

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fore being returned. If you caved in and had staff park your truck, ask where it’s parked and how you access the location.

ROOM, FLOOR, AND EXITS Ground-floor rooms are more prone to unwanted entry. Second through fifth floors are best as they deter intrusions, but still allow some city fire departments access via ladders (if those resources are even available). Rooms immediately adjacent to fire exits are more easily compromised from the outside, especially at hotels with lessadvanced security. Researching the ultimate room is always possible, but receiving it isn’t, especially if you try to change during check-in. Be prepared to get what you get and adapt. At check-in, ask for an area map, and obtain the establishment’s business cards with an address and primary contact numbers. If you don’t want other people in the elevator to know your room location, exit on another floor, and then circle back, or use the stairs.

You are trusting people you don’t know, in a distant location, to prepare a safe and clean place to sleep. Don’t take this lightly. Make an initial room sweep, with the door ajar, to ensure nobody is in the room and that everything meets expectations. If something looks amiss, bring it up. You can inspect down to various levels, but at least make sure the locks work, confirm the door viewer (peephole) functions correctly, and verify a fire escape plan. Check that opening windows lock, as drainpipes, eves, or ledges can provide external access. If possible, avoid connecting rooms for security and unwanted noise transmission. Not all accommodations are required to have the same safety fitments or notifications. Many private ones will have none at all. Once settled, photograph the hotel business card with your phone. Hang motorcycle helmets in the closet, as they will be less prone to be damaged by staff.

Take a familiarization walk in areas pertinent to your stay. Verify your floor’s fire exits. Are they working, labeled, and accessible? Identify three possible routes to leave your floor, other than the elevator. Identify exits from locations you might frequent other than your room (gym, bar, restaurant).

In high-risk environments (or for über-

It’s easy to get lost, even in small hotels. Explore hallways around your room and identify routes to multiple emergency exits. If you can’t read a safety sign, ask what it means. “In case of fire, do not use the elevator.”

prepared overlanders), innocuous pieces of recovery gear brought up from your truck, like winch line extensions or tree savers, can also facilitate window or balcony exits.

Some egress, like service or kitchen areas, may not lead out to the front of the hotel.

Explore hallways and make sure you understand orientation signage and instructions in other languages.

ROOM SAFETY There are various methods to safeguard and enhance room safety. Rubber door wedges can secure the main and ancillary room doors from opening. Be advised that if emergency personnel need to enter your room, you’ve hindered their access. Improvised door wedges such as folded plastic water bottles can work, depending on the flooring. Portable smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors can back up room fire detectors, or serve as primary where those devices are lacking. Rechargeable illumination devices on the bathroom and entry

UNWANTED GUESTS: BED BUGS Bed bugs are parasites that live on blood. Usually active at night, these insects frequently hide in and around beds. This is a reliable place to find unwitting hosts. Bites turn into itchy welts, similar to those from mosquitoes. Unless you’re up on insect bite identification, the best way to verify their presence is if they are in your bed.

For pre-trip research, you can check online bed bug registries to see if your hotels, inns, or B&Bs have been active.

In the room, check around the headboards, on the sides and top of the bare mattress and box spring. Check other areas too, like carpet margins. Look for red or rusty spots, bits of exoskeleton, or dark staining where it shouldn’t be—it’s either their excrement or a host’s blood. Clean rooms and expensive hotels can still have bed bugs. A cotton sleep sack or similar apparatus may keep them at bay, but the best approach is to avoid them. A few bites might just be an itchy inconvenience in a developed world inn. But for overland or expedition personnel heading out from a Nairobi hotel on a month-long trek, those itchy welts can become open pathways for more serious travel maladies.

door handle help to orient in dark, unfamiliar rooms. Keep a flashlight by the bed, a set of clothes ready to go (e.g., for fire alarm evacuations), and a small bag or pack with essentials for sustaining the elements in the prevailing weather. Use the Do not Disturb sign on your door, unless you want housekeeping to enter. Leave the TV on to deter unwanted visitors. Avoid the Please Make Up Room sign entirely, as it advertises to everyone you’re away. Keep the curtains closed when appropriate. Know how to get to your travel mates’ rooms, and identify a rallying point outside in case you need to leave the hotel unexpectedly.

Assume your room is never secure. People you don’t know are entering and cleaning your temporary living space and moving your personal effects around. Try to organize gear in locations (closet, drawers, corners) where there is no reason for them to touch it. There are simple and sophisticated tricks to see if someone tampered with your stuff.

An old standby is to notice/photograph the subtleties of gear orientation to other fixed items. When you return, determine if those associations have been altered.

Always keep your passport with you.

If you must leave important larger gear in the room, secure it to steel sink pipes or a metal bed frame. Room safes are not secure, and those who know how can open them.

Some also have a default code much like garage or gate access devices. If they are not cleared after installation, then punching in known same-digit factory combinations could open your safe. Finally, locked room safes can be completely removed by thieves.

This happened to me in Paris, France, November 2013. The main hotel safe, usually somewhere near the front desk, is a better option; there is a quasi chain of custody, albeit the process of handing valuables over near the front desk might be uncomfortably high-profile.

TIP Avoid the Please Make Up Room sign entirely, as it advertises to everyone you’re away.

When necessary, secure larger gear to solid infrastructure in your room that is more problematic for thieves to remove easily, such as steel plumbing or metal bed frames. Room safes are not secure.

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CLEANLINESS ISSUES Do you want to get sick at the start of your long-planned trip across Africa? You don’t need to pack a UV flashlight and hospital-grade sanitizers, but you should be aware of cleanliness issues easily addressed by common disinfectant wipes. TV remotes are oft-cited as germ infested. Other touch OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

points on the unhygienic radar include wall-mounted climate control units, phones near the toilet, door handles, and glasses by the sink.

Housekeeping staff clean around the toilet and bath, then pick up the glasses and wipe them down with the same rags.

Use your travel water bottle instead. Bed top covers can be pretty nasty, and the pillows too. The spares in the closet might be cleaner, but when in doubt, deploy a cotton sleeping sack.

LIGHTS OUT You just flew 27 hours with three connections. You didn’t sleep on the planes or the night before you left. You’ll surely have jet lag, and should catch up on sleep before heading out into the bush. One aspect that will help, besides prescribed meds or homeopathic remedies, is making your room as dark as possible when you hit the sack.

Cover all LEDs, like the thermostat controls or TV standby lights, with small squares of gaffers tape or duct tape. Make sure to put something over the obligatory bright LED clock at the bedside. Certain hotel closets have hangers with clips for suspending trousers; use them to clamp blackout curtains together and keep light out.

LEAVING When leaving the hotel, ensure someone maintains contact with your luggage from room to truck. Secure it in or to your vehicle. If you then need to leave the truck, it’s advisable to drive to the hotel entrance, as you would upon initial arrival, and wait there until your departure issues have been sorted. When solo on a motorcycle, I prefer to ride from the parking spot to the front entrance, park the bike, get the gear from the room, check out, then exit and affix the panniers and other gear right there.

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PRIVATE STAY Private accommodations are great for meeting locals, experiencing new cultures, and eating traditional fare. You interact less like a tourist, and more like an invited guest.

However, they do not follow the same life safety brand standards as hotel chains or associations. You don’t know who else has access or keys. It’s not always clear who OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

other people are in common areas. Private accommodations can be more secure, but you also might find yourself locked in, locked out, or there may be no locks at all.

Toilets and other areas may be communal, and parking circumstances might change throughout the day. Don’t rule out private stays. My most memorable travel experiences over decades across six continents have been at family-owned lodging. Seek vetted arrangements and confirm in advance the vehicle or motorcycle parking situation and your security requirements.

SUMMARY This approach requires proactive traveler participation, as opposed to a passive, reactionary approach. Motorcycle and vehicle security is essential because your trip is reliant on those transport modes and the gear attached. Pay attention to the small details. You don’t need to enter the hotel in full paranoia mode, but familiarize yourself and know how to operate in that environment. It’s the same out in the bush. Always conduct pre-trip research, maintain situational and personal awareness, and mitigate risks as appropriate. Circumstances will vary, so adapt, overcome, and enjoy your accommodation.

RESOURCES Supplemental medical insurance: expeditionportal.com (search term: travel insurance rescue medical)

Besides professional and personal travel experience, I gather most hotel safety coursework materials from various published sources, including authors from hospitality, military, security, and clandestine service backgrounds.

My favorite subject matter source is a professional and long-time friend with over 25 years of hospitality industry experience. In addition to vast domestic experience, this individual has worked at hotel operations in more than 20 countries around the globe and still works in the industry.

Besides TV remotes, housekeeping staff frequently overlook thermostat controllers. The down arrow on this unit is well stained. The glasses in the bathroom look clean, but are they?

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CLASSIC KIT

SUSAN DRAGOO

The Pelican Case Hailing from humble origins, this iconic brand is explorer worthy.

Dear Meriwether, Here are a few things I’d like for you to do while you’re out West: Explore the Missouri River, map it, take a look at its southern tributaries, find a Northwest Passage, establish friendly relations with the natives, study the soil, the animals, the geology, the climate, the plant life. Oh, and find the source of the Mississippi River, and while you’re at it, figure out how those pesky Canadian traders are getting from the Mississippi to the Missouri. If you make it to the Pacific Coast and encounter a sailing vessel, send a couple of your trusty men back with a copy of your notes. And, one more thing, look into the fur trade out there.

Write home when you can. Warm regards, Tom Jefferson.

Under the ambitious instructions, liberally paraphrased above, of US President Thomas Jefferson, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark and their Corps of Discovery set out from St. Louis up the Missouri River in 1804 to explore the unknown (to the Americans) territory of the brand-new Louisiana Purchase. Among the kit they carried in their keelboat and two pirogues (dugout canoes) were mathematical instruments, arms and accoutrements, camp equipage, provisions, “Indian presents,” and medicines. To assemble these goods into portable packs, Lewis commissioned “sheep skins taken off the Animal as perfectly whole as possible, without being split on the belly as usual and dress’d only with lime to free them from the wool; or otherwise about the same quantity of Oil Cloth bags well painted.”

In July 1806, as the Corps returned from its 8,000-mile journey, Lewis retrieved a cache of documents and specimens he’d left at the Great Falls of the Missouri River (in presentday Montana), and found that every botanical specimen painstakingly collected between Fort Mandan and the Great Falls had been destroyed.

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“Had the cash opened found my bearskins entirly destroyed by the water, the river having risen so high that the water had penitrated. all my specimens of plants also lost. the Chart of the Missouri fortunately escaped. opened my trunks and boxes and exposed the articles to dry. found my papers damp and several articles damp. the stoper had come out of a phial of laudinum and the contents had run into the drawer and distroyed a gret part of my medicine in such manner that it was past recovery.”

–from the journal of Meriwether Lewis, July 13, 1806 In that moment, what would he have given for a Pelican case? Could the chunky plastic hexahedrons we take for granted have saved Lewis’ precious cargo?

Fifty years later, Randolph B. Marcy, US Army Captain and intrepid explorer of the American Southwest, published the Gen 1 guide to overlanding, The Prairie Traveler. In its pages, he addressed a problem common to long-distance travelers of the day, that of fording rivers.

“A small party traveling with a pack train and arriving upon the banks of a deep stream will not always have the time to stop or the means to make any of the boats (previously) described. Should their luggage be such as to become seriously injured by a wetting, and there be an India-rubber or gutta-percha cloth disposable, or if even a green beef or buffalo hide can be procured, it may be spread out upon the ground, and the articles of baggage placed in the centre, in a square or rectangular form; the ends and sides are then brought up so as entirely to envelop the package, and the whole secured with ropes or raw hide. It is then placed in the water with a rope attached to one end, and towed across...If hides be used they will require greasing occasionally, to prevent their becoming water-soaked.”

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Would that Marcy could have advised his audience of Westbound settlers simply to buy some Pelican cases.

Through the ages, long-distance travelers have been challenged to protect sensitive goods from the elements. The ancient craft of waterproofing has involved the treatment of barrels and seagoing vessels with tar or pitch, the manufacture of containers from natural materials like rubber or gutta-percha (a substance made from latex that resembles rubber but contains more resin and is now used mostly in dentistry), the waxing of canvas, and eventually the use of plastic. Today, solutions abound for protecting fragile items in transit from both moisture and impact, and their origins can be traced to OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

a southern Californian named Dave Parker who, in the 1970s, pioneered Pelican Products. But safeguarding the equipment of travelers wasn’t the problem he started out trying to solve.

An avid scuba diver, Parker and his wife, Arline, founded Pelican in 1976 in their Torrance, California, garage. Their first patented product was the Pelican Float, a subsurface marker for scuba divers. (This float is still manufactured and favored by technical, research, commercial, and law enforcement scuba divers.) A first aid kit for divers soon followed. But why “Pelican”? The story goes that the Parkers were trying to come up with a name for their new business, and nothing was striking their fancy. While boating together one day near Catalina, Arline saw two pelicans fly by and exclaimed, “Pelican. That’s what we should call our business, Pelican!” And so it was.

“Dave Parker is really an idea guy,” said Sharon Ward, Pelican’s Director of Public and Media Relations and a 30-year employee. “It was his idea to make a first aid kit for divers. He was selling them in 1978, and people said, ‘You should make a Pelican case without the contents. You can put anything in the Pelican case to keep it safe and dry.’ We would build a case, and people would find ways to use it; we didn’t have to dictate that, so we saw a lot of success in cases.” More than 50 sizes of injectionmolded cases were soon being produced and by 1981 the SabreLite was introduced, bringing a bright, rugged, submersible flashlight to the market.

Forty-three years after its inception, Pelican produces cases, flashlights, coolers, and travel gear for consumers and governmental agencies. They have also developed a biothermal division, providing temperature-controlled cases to the pharmaceutical market for shipping vaccines and transporting other temperature-sensitive substances like plasma. Product literature describes Pelican cases as “watertight, crushproof, and dustproof.”

To achieve such lofty standards, Pelican starts the manufacturing process with an industrial injection molding machine, melting a proprietary blend of polymer pellets, and injecting the molten blend into a solid steel mold. The material then cools within the mold to form the main Pelican case parts. Robots remove the cases from the machine and drop them to line workers, who add hardware and other components.

To qualify as waterproof, Pelican cases feature a male/female groove around the edges of the top and bottom pieces. A polymer O-ring is wedged into the groove that forms a watertight seal when the two halves of the case are pressed together, then “tough-as-nails” latches maintain the seal while the case is closed.

In the crushproof department, Pelican’s injection molding process allows the case to have thick areas where needed for impact protection and thinner areas to reduce weight. An open cell-core wall construction creates a tough yet lightweight structure, and their special polymer blend rebounds with impact to dissipate energy. Structural ribs protect the hinges and latches from shearing and impact. Foam also aids in the protection of case contents, and Pelican provides an innovative online mechanism allowing purchasers to customize foam for the interior layout of their cases.

Pelican’s success has been so pervasive that one might consider the company’s name a generic term for any plastic case that claims to be water- and impact-proof. “Pelican-like,” so to speak.

But, as with Coke, you may want the “real thing,” and given Pelican’s propensity for acquiring its competitors, that may not be difficult.

Dave Parker, now in his early 80s, sold the company in 2004 and retired in 2006, turning over the reins to current CEO Lyndon Faulkner. Pelican’s annual revenues currently run about $450 million, thanks initially to organic growth through new product launches, new market segments, and expansion of geographic reach; then, under Faulkner’s leadership, Pelican’s acquisition of six companies similar in market and product, including Hardigg Industries, one of their biggest competitors, in 2009.

The company, still headquartered in Torrance, has manufacturing facilities in the United States, Europe, and Australia, and sales offices worldwide.

For overlanders, one of the most colorful chapters in Pelican’s history involves the Camel Trophy, the now-legendary four-wheel-drive competition occurring from 1980 to 1998 in which teams from around the world negotiated difficult terrain in exotic places. The first year, three German teams drove Jeeps along the Trans-Amazonian Highway from Belém to Santarém in Brazil. But beginning in 1981 it became (and remained) a Land Rover event, and in 1990 it showcased Land Rover’s new Discovery 200 Tdi. Duncan Barbour, of Barbour All Terrain Tracking, Wildtrackers, and 7P International fame, was the event coordinator that year.

“When Land Rover decided to supply us with Discos for the event,” said Barbour, “there was less room in the vehicles. Customized roof racks were made to carry four Pelican cases, two jerry cans with fuel, and two with water.”

Pelicans were selected because, according to Barbour, “The vehicles ended up in very deep water. The height of the snorkel was within three inches of the top of the windscreen, so we wanted to have a waterproof container. Pelican was the only product out there fit for the purpose, and it had a lifetime guarantee. The cases were absolutely watertight. In fact, when taking them on an airplane, it required a valve to release the pressure after flying.”

A two-person team was selected from each participating country for the Camel Trophy, and each member received two Pelican cases for the event, embossed with the event logo. Pelican’s United Kingdom distributor, Peli UK, supplied 200 of the Pelican 1600 cases for the Camel Trophy every year in the mid1990s. “It wasn’t a sponsorship deal,” Ward said, “Camel bought the cases outright.”

The cases were put to some creative uses: “Camel Trophy participants would put their dirty clothes in their Pelican cases, fill them with water and laundry soap, then drive around to get the movement going,” said Ward. “The movement acted as a washing machine agitator.”

The strength of the Pelicans was also tested in unexpected ways. In 1991, the Camel Trophy retraced the trail of Scottish explorer Dr. David Livingstone from Tanzania to Burundi. Bill

Burke was a member of the US team that year and said that one “special task” required driving over a stack of palm trees. “The earlier teams had to build ramps, and it required us to utilize only vehicle-installed items,” he said. “The sand ladders were just aluminum aircraft landing pads and needed some support to keep them from folding up; therein came the Pelican Cases we were issued. We placed the cases under the sand ladders and drove up and over the logs.”

Today, those vintage Camel Trophy Pelican cases are collectors’ items, but many Camel Trophy veterans are still actively using theirs. “I still have my cases,” said Duncan Barbour. “They are well used; I’ve taken them all over. We all have Pelis from back Today, those vintage Camel Trophy Pelican cases are as early as 1990,” he adds, refercollectors’ items, but many ring to several Trophy colleagues.

Camel Trophy veterans are “The fact that they’re still in use still actively using their cases for carrying gear decades on is from the early ’90s. “The fact testament to the brand and the that they’re still in use for product,” said Barbour. carrying gear decades on is Pelican’s website is full of testestament to the brand and timonials, survival stories. A Pelithe product,” said Barbour. can case lost at sea, washed up on the rugged New Zealand shore a month later with the contents intact and all stored electronics working. A military helicopter in Iraq destroyed by missiles, the only thing salvageable a Pelican case containing satellite phones, radios, a camera, and a block of C-4 explosive—nothing damaged. A Pelican case containing a Hasselblad camera and other expensive photo equipment carried on horseback during a trek in northern India. The horse fell, dragging the case underwater, banging it against rocks, and out again. The contents were dry and unharmed.

Lewis and Marcy would be green with envy.

Airtight Pelican Cases on the roofrack of a Camel Trophy Defender. A case from the 1990s still in use today. Opposite: Pelican founder Dave Parker.

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called mukolo wa kwenas or crocodile boats to transport supplies. With half the geologists being seasoned veterans with stiff joints, and the other half possessing the curiosity of youth, the 20-hour drive on the bumpy road around the floodplain was voted as plan B. The Cruisers made an abrupt U-turn back to Senanga to see if they could pay their way onto one of these amphibious vehicles.

Almost immediately they came across a convoy of bicycles being pushed, not ridden, down the road with all manner of sacks, boxes, and caged chickens strapped to them, evidently heading directly for the water’s edge. The Cruisers swung their noses onto the same track, and it wasn’t long before in front of them lay indeed what looked like a pair of gigantic crocodiles being loaded with cargo.

Thirty people, four They turned out to be tracked amvehicles, and 4 tons phibious cargo carriers of the Sovietof maize meal were made PTS type. They were not much now marooned in more than a long hollowed-out tank the middle of the with tracks, but no turret or gun—just crocodile-infested a huge walled deck and loading ramp.

Zambezi River, miles Loading had just begun, and so it from any help. was negotiated with the military captain in charge that for a 44-gallon drum of diesel and a carton of Marlboro cigarettes from Johannesburg, the two Cruisers and four geologists could squeeze on with everyone else.

Diesel was in short supply in these regions, and though none of the team smoked, boxes of cigarettes were indeed a useful currency in the region too.

The loading tracks onto the tanks were made for much wider military trucks, so driving the Cruisers on was a hairy business from the start—perhaps an omen for the trip ahead.

After much stopping, reversing, and nail biting, each amphibian was loaded with one Cruiser nestled into the middle of the deck surrounded by 15 people and 2 tons of maize meal.

The ramps were raised, and the vehicles lurched into the water, diesel turbines whining, the tracks leaving a muddy wake behind them.

The floodplain to be crossed was only on one side of the Zambezi River. But heading south in the same direction as the river’s flow, it made sense that the vehicles make use of the current and drift down the river to exit farther down. The weight of the Cruisers, people, and maize meal caused further nail-biting and prayers when the great green rolling waters of the famed Zambezi River were spotted ahead. Neither driver made any attempt to slow down. The carriers plunged nonchalantly into it at full speed with nothing but a bob. Power take-off was switched from tracks to propellers, and off they went, the drivers not batting an eyelid nor missing a drag on their cigarettes.

A group of passengers had been getting stuck into a pot of local beer, and when it was time to relieve themselves, the drivers obliged. They pulled up on a raised sandy island near the bank of the river, forcing a pair of real basking crocodiles to slink grumpily back into the water. With all of 30 meters OVERLAND JOURNAL GEAR 2020

to fit on, the second carrier squeezed up behind the first one, whereupon it immediately stalled. Its driver, the captain with whom the ferry deal had been struck, cursed in tones that made it obvious something was seriously wrong. Batteries, it seemed, were of low importance here, and were never properly maintained. The men quickly brought the other amphibian up to pull-start it, and in so doing, stalled that one too.

Thirty people, four vehicles, and 4 tons of maize meal were now marooned in the middle of the crocodile-infested Zambezi River, miles from any help.

Not to be undone, the geologists and soldiers wired up four Cruiser batteries into a series to produce 48 volts to start one of the amphibians. This had no effect on the diesel turbines and was draining the batteries too quickly. The only option left was to try and pull-start one of the amphibians with a Cruiser (remember, these vehicles did not have wheels but tracks).

Everybody got to work offloading the front amphibian, a Cruiser was hitched up with a chain, and every single person lined up along the side to push. In first gear low range, the six cylinders and 130 horses in the Toyota 1HZ engine inched the pickup forward, tires slipping but slowly gaining traction.

With 20 meters of runway to work with, there was little room for failure. The Cruiser was nearing the end of the island, about to plunge into the water itself, when the crocodile boat roared into life.

With both carriers running, the Cruisers again crawled up the loading tracks. They were walled off with sacks of maize meal, atop of which the passengers chattered in high spirits at the action they had all been part of, passing around more pots of beer. Off they went, plunging back into the waters and out onto dry land sometime later without further incident.

The geologists spent a productive couple of months sampling soil on the other side and set off for the long road home, the weight of canned food replaced with meticulously labeled bags of sifted soil. The floodplain had by now dried up, and finding their planned track, they crossed the whole thing in less than a couple of hours.

In the years to come, the copper in that prospect across the floodplain proved to be insufficient, and the work was subsequently abandoned. But whenever traveling through Senanga to other prospects in the area, the geologists stopped by the military office bearing gifts from Johannesburg. Everyone would share a laugh over the time they had all very nearly been marooned on a desert island in the Zambezi River.

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Illustration by Michele Dallorso

TAIL LAMP JOHN GAISFORD

Living on a Prayer An unlikely rescue of a crocodile boat in Zambia.

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orthwestern Zambia is covered in soggy floodplains and even soggier drainage wetlands, sandwiched between endless acres of strangling forest. Deep below the surface, however, are rich deposits of copper ore which have long been attracting teams of exploration geologists to this inhospitable land. They are sent in for months on end, armed with canned food, geological maps, and sample bags to fill with soil. The bags are then sent back to labs to test whether their geologists’ noses are indeed sniffing out the copper or not. But even with highly trained professionals and the latest technology, finding copper is no easy task when a thick blanket of younger sandy regolith covers most of the bedrock in which the ore lies. Projects are often abandoned to go off and search in a new area. But for these lucky explorers, paid adventure is had in wild places very few are fortunate enough to visit.

Getting in and out of these remote areas is left up to a doggedly reliable fleet of Land Cruiser 70-Series pickups, and mobilizing is well-planned and generally without incident. But on one occasion, a season in the field was nearly over before it began.

It was the tail end of a vicious rainy season in the mid1990s, and a group of exploration geologists had just switched off the idling diesel engines of their two pickups. Getting out onto the muddy ground, bewildered at the vast expanse of water shimmering before them in the mid-morning sun, they began to chatter in puzzled tones. By this time of year, the water should have subsided to leave a muddy track across the floodplain, which they had navigated successfully in years gone by. Instead, there was an endless swamp as far as the eye could see, which no mortal vehicle could navigate—unless it could float, too.

A flask of coffee was produced from behind the seat. Leaning over the 1:250 000 Senanga map on the hood of one of the vehicles, the problem was discussed. Their only option seemed to be to drive the 20 hours around the swamped floodplain into the prospect area. But one of the crew, who spoke some of the local Lozi language, had chatted to a group of locals in the trading store in Senanga the day before. There was apparently an Angolan refugee village on the opposite side of the floodplain; the Zambian army was using what the locals Continued on page 138

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