Todra Topo

TODRA Rock Climbing in the Todra Gorge Escalade dans les Gorges du Todra

“MECCA

“

A TRAD CLIMBING

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TODRA Rock Climbing in the Todra Gorge Escalade dans les Gorges du Todra

An Oxford Alpine Club Pocket Guide

TODRA

Rock Climbing in the Todra Gorge 1st Edition, 2015 Published by the Oxford Alpine Club (UK) www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk ISBN for this volume 978-0-9567288-8-3 ©2015 Oxford Alpine Club

PLEASE READ THIS! Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, and users of this guidebook should have a full understanding of the risks involved. There are no organised rescue services in the Todra Gorge, and although many of the routes are fully bolted roadside ‘sport’ routes, this is an adventurous destination that may not be suitable for inexperienced groups. Route information is notoriously unreliable, and grades and lines described in this book may therefore be inaccurate. Similarly, the quality of fixed gear can be variable and users of this guidebook will require relevant training, skills, or experience in order to judge the reliability of anchors.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Other than brief quotations for use in reviews, or personal use on a climb, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.

Nor should any text, images, or maps be used for commercial products without permission and acknowledgement of the publisher. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any injury or loss caused as a result of using this guidebook. Images and text contained within this book do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of the Oxford Alpine Club.

FRONT COVER: Cameron Hall enjoying winter sun at the popular Plage Mansour, with the Aiguille du Grabe in the background.

REAR COVER: The mighty Pilier du Couchant: showcase of the Todra Gorge.

2

In

INDEX  LOGISTICS Introduction 5 How to Get to Todra 7 Staying in Marrakech 9 Climate 10 People & Culture 11 Wildlife & Vegetation 11 Accommodation 13 Supplies 15 Money 15 Climbing Shops 15 Gear 15 Fixed Anchors 15 Recommended Routes 17 Other Climbing Areas 19 Sector Overview 21  THE MAIN GORGE Paroi du Levant Plage Mansour Left Plage Mansour Right Aiguille du Gue Aiguille du Grabe Dounab Pilier du Couchant Satanique

23 25 27 29 31 33 35 39

Dalle Hollandais Jardins des Roches C2 DeMeuk Right DeMeuk Left Regression Summer Gardens Toxo Tiana Chaos

dex

41 43 45 47 49 51 53 57 59

 THE UPPER TIER Inconu & Gullich Can Mutan Eléphant Winter Gardens Ansamer Scorpion Poisson Sacres

63 65 67 69 71 73 75

 THE PETITE GORGE Patchwork Family Petite Gorge Right Tacos Nord Kilimanjaro Petite Gorge Left Tacos Sud

77 79 81 83 87 89

3

4

I nt INTRODUCTION

ro d

uc t

Lying on the southern fringe of the High Atlas is one of Morocco’s premier climbing destinations – the magnificent Todra Gorge. Here, under year-round sunshine, you will find a climbing experience like few others: an enticing blend of sport, adventure, and exotic culture.

io n

Climbing has been going on here since the late sixties, and for some thirty years the gorge was the most popular rock climbing destination in Morocco.

Today, it continues to attract climbers from all over the world, who come here to enjoy a superb variety of climbing, from single-pitch roadside sport routes to long multi-pitch adventures that combine a mixture of traditional and ‘sport’ techniques. More importantly, however, climbing in Todra provides a fascinating insight into this country’s wonderful culture, and the kind of experience that you are unlikely to find on a typical Mediterranean sport climbing holiday.

There’s something here to suit most tastes and abilities, whether you’re looking to ‘rough it’ on a budget, experience traditional Moroccan hospitality, or enjoy a more luxurious existence. There are brilliant easy routes, epic long adventures, overhanging test-pieces, and terrifying, bold and historic ascents waiting to be rediscovered. All of this lies just yards from the roadside, in one of the most spectacular limestone gorges of Morocco’s Atlas mountain range.

Welcome to the Todra Gorge, and a climbing holiday unlike any other...

CAUTION...

This book is not intended to serve as a detailed guidebook to climbing in the Todra region – please treat it as a basic ‘topo’ and don’t take it too seriously...

LEFT: The impressive Pilier du Couchant makes a lasting impression on first arrival in the Todra Gorge.

Accurate information about the climbs here is notoriously difficult to come by. Routes have been bolted by parties from all over the world over a 40year timescale, and in many cases were not recorded in any detail. It has not been possible to climb all of the routes in this book and so the grades indicated are, in many cases, based on some very dubious information.

Similarly, repeated translations, misunderstandings, and ‘Chinese whispers’ have led to considerable doubts about many of the route names. Whilst every effort has been made to make sense of the chaos, it’s probably best just to treat contradictory information as ‘part of the fun’ when in Morocco...

5

ESSAOUIRA

AGADIR



Inezgane N1

TAFRAOUT R104

R207

N8

R106

AN Tafraout

R201

-A

A7

R109

TI

Igherm

Tarroudant N10

R105

R107

N7

R203

Taliouine

Asni



MARRAKECH

R106

TL

S N12

TATA

A

N8

R307

R210

N9

R307

R304

OUARZAZATE R108

N10

R704

Boumalne Dades

R108 Marrakech

7:30

Tafraout

R703

R113

TODRA

Tinghir

5:45 Todra 8:00

Approximate Driving Times:

3:00 Agadir 2:30

N9

‘National’ Route

ZAGORA

N12

‘Regional’ Route

200km

Motorway / Autoroute

150km

Climbing / Escalade 100km

Large Town

50km

Small Town

 International Airport  Regional Airport

Tazenakht

E



TAGHIA NS Ait AI M’hmed NT OU AT L A S M

N

Timedline

N10

W S

0km

HOW TO GET THERE

Lo g

ist

By Public Transport The Todra Gorge is located about 15km north of Tinghir, on the southern slopes of the Atlas Mountains. Most of the climbing is located within easy walking distance of hotels at the entrance to, or within, the gorge itself, and a rental car is therefore unnecessary.

The nearest airport is Marrakech, from where it is approximately 8 hours by bus to Tinghir (alternatively known as Tinerhir or Tineghir). Bus tickets can be reserved online on the following websites:

ics

CAUTION...

The Tichka Pass between Marrakech and Timedline is sometimes closed due to heavy snowfall between December and February. It’s therefore worth checking the state of the road before you start your journey...

http://www.ctm.ma http://www.supratours.ma From Tinghir it is possible to reach the gorge either by taxi (there are plenty of taxi stands in the centre of town), or by hitching along the R703.

By Car Although most crags are within walking distance of some hotels, those who choose to rent a car will have more choice of accommodation and will benefit from having a ‘lock-up’ at the crag – something that can be useful when climbing at the roadside sectors. The daily drive from Tinghir into the gorge only takes 15 minutes, so is little hardship for those who choose accommodation in town, where the lively souq makes for a more colourful experience than spending the whole time in the gorge.

All major rental firms have desks at Marrakech and Agadir airports, and cars can easily be booked online. Marrakech is the preferred option, being about 6 hours by car from Tinghir, via the N9 through Ouarzazate. Climbers wishing to split a trip between Todra and Tafraout may prefer to fly in to Agadir, from where the drive to Tinghir is about 7½ hours along the N10.

It is worth noting that the standards of roads (and driving) are not up to those in western Europe, and Morocco has a poor road safety record. Driving outside of the cities is generally relatively straightforward, though very poor lighting and road markings makes it significantly more hazardous at night. Driving in Marrakech (see map on next page) is an experience in its own right, for which little advice can be given.

7

Towards the A7, Agadir & Tafraout

N8

Railway Station



N9

Supratours buses



Marrakech Menara Airport

R212

R203

Gare Routière

(CTM buses)

S

N

Hotel Jma el Fna Chems  Grand Mosque



W

0km

4km

6km

N8

8km

Buses from Marrakech to Agadir, Tinghir, and other national destinations run from the following depots: Gare Routiere – CTM buses The Railway Station – Supratours buses

MARRAKECH

E

2km

Towards Ouarzazate, Tinghir & Todra

N9

8

MARRAKECH

Mar

rak

Marrakech is the gateway to southern Morocco, the High Atlas and beyond. It is a fascinating city, brimming with culture and energy, and an overnight stop here is highly recommended for climbers visiting the area for the first time.

ech

The focal point of the old town is the famous central square, Jma el Fna, which comes alive every evening with an impressive array of food stalls and street performers. Tattoo artisits, snake charmers, hotel touts, and pick-pockets are all on the prowl, so it’s worth keeping your wits about you. The ancient Souq (market) is situated just off the square and is a great place to pick up some souvenirs and practise your bartering skills as you get lost in its twisting alleyways.

As you might expect, there is no shortage of places to stay or eat, with hotels, riads, restaurants and street-vendors to suit every budget. Visitors who have rented a car, however, are advised to leave their vehicle outside of the ring road if at all possible, as driving in Marrakech is an eye-opening experience for those unfamiliar with this part of the world. There are excellent bus and taxi services between the airport and town centre, so returning your car early to the airport, or picking it up the day after you arrive, is a feasible option.

Heading in to town on foot, armed with a sense of humour and appetite for adventure, is certainly the most fun and cheapest way of doing things, but visitors looking for a low stress alternative could do a lot worse than the Hotel Chems, near the Grand Mosque.

This mid-budget hotel is superbly positioned 10 minutes by car from the airport, but within easy walking distance of Jma el Fna. It offers free, on-site private parking, air-conditioned rooms, outdoor pool, bar and restaurant, and is something of a peaceful haven amidst the chaos of the city. Rooms start at about â‚Ź35 and must be booked in advance. www.hotel-chems.com

9

CLIMATE Reliable sunshine, pleasant temperatures, and a lack of rain give Todra a very favourable climate for the climber, making it an ideal escape during the winter months.

The climbing season here is also relatively long, thanks to the availability of sunshine and shade throughout the gorge. In general, the best times of year are from September to November, or from February through to the end of May, although climbing is possible even in the middle of winter or height of summer.

The gorge is situated some 1400m above sea level, resulting in significant temperature differences between sunshine and shade – a fact that can either be useful or uncomfortable. As a result, cloudy conditions and a lack of sunshine within the narrow confines of the gorge can easily make it seem chilly at times, particularly between October and March, when spare warm clothing is advised.

Rain can occur at any time of year, but is not usually prolonged and the rock dries quickly in sunshine. Isolated storms, which can be difficult to predict, are sometimes intense and would be a serious event for parties caught high on multi-pitch routes. Flash floods do sometimes occur in the gorge, preventing access for up to 48 hours and occasionally causing damage to property.

The graphs below give an indication of expected conditions throughout the year: 40

40

35

35

30

30 Average max / min temperatures

25

20

15

15

10

10

5

JAN

FEB

MAR

APR

MAY

12 11 10

Average hours of sunshine

9

JUN

JUL

AUG



SEP

OCT

NOV

DEC

5 12 11 10 9

8

8

7

7

6

6

5

5

4 3 2 1 0

10

25

20

Average days of rain per month



4 3 2 1 0

PEOPLE & CULTURE

Lo g

ist

Morocco is a predominantly Muslim country, and the local Berber people follow many traditions of the Arabic world. Climbers are encouraged to respect these differences by: •

Dressing appropriately – Knees and shoulders should remain covered when in public places, including roadside crags.

•

Being sensitive with photography – Do not take photographs of women, or any government buildings or officials.

•

Avoiding public displays of affection – Any public display of affection between the sexes is forbidden in Islamic law, and will cause offence to local people.

ics

These guidelines are particularly important, and frequently policed, during the month of Ramadan. During this period visitors should also avoid openly eating or drinking during daylight hours – please be discreet and sensitive to the local population who may well be fasting for Ramadan.

WILDLIFE & VEGETATION Vegetation does not pose a problem for climbers in the Todra Gorge, and unlike other parts of Morocco, cacti and prickly bushes infrequently feature on routes.

Numerous species of snake are present in the region, particularly during summer months when they are at their most active. The most common is the slender, brown rock viper, which although poisonous, is relatively timid and no more a threat than similar snakes in mainland Europe. Larger, horned vipers and Egyptian cobras have also been sighted in the region, and it goes without saying that these highly dangerous animals are best given a wide berth. In case of attack by any kind of north African snake, immediately evacuate to medical aid, reassure the casualty, and gently wash the wound. Do not attempt to apply pressure, suck out venom, or apply tourniquets.

Scorpions are relatively common, but are generally nocturnal and rarely aggressive.

Numerous varieties exist, only some of which field a fatal sting.

11

12

ACCOMMODATION

Lo g

ist

There is no shortage of accommodation in the area, ranging from a sleeping bag on the roof of a hostel, right through to four-star luxury. Indeed, there are so many hotels and guest houses on the road between Tinghir and the gorge that securing accommodation can easily be left until your arrival. Recommended hotels are as follows, though many others are probably equally as suitable:

ics

In the Gorge – closest to the climbing: HOTEL YASMINA – Located right in amongst the climbing, the Yasmina is a great choice if you want to be able to walk from your hotel to routes in the Main Gorge. It’s also close enough to access the Upper Tier, and the Petit Gorge. The hotel is popular with tourists, so can get quite busy, and is powered by a diesel generator, which means there’s no electricity or hot water at certain times of day.  | Approx €15 per room | Restaurant  At the Entrance to the Gorge – cheapest: HOTEL MANSOUR and HOTEL LA VALLEE – Both located beneath the Aiguille du Gue, at the foot of the descent route from all long routes on the east side of the canyon, and within walking distance of all sectors in the Main Gorge. The Upper Tier is also accessible in about 40 minutes.

Both offer simple, clean accommodation that is popular with climbers on a budget. Limited electricity and hot water.  | Prices variable, with rooftop bivi options available | Cafe  In the Village – longer walk to climbing, but closer to shops: HOTEL DAR AYOUR – Approximately 5-10 minutes on foot from the entrance to the gorge, this very pleasant guest house offers comfortable, clean accommodation, along with home-cooked food.

Alcohol is available, and some rooms have air conditioning.  | Approx €25 per room | Food  | Bar  | Air Con  In Tinghir – only 15 minute drive to climbing, and lots more facilities & services: KASBAH LAMRANI – For climbers looking for a touch of luxury, the Kasbah Lamrani offers excellent, traditional accommodation with en-suite rooms, air conditioning, comfortable bar and restaurant, and outdoor swimming pool. Booking is advised. http://www.kasbahlamrani.com | kasbahlamrani@hotmail.com  | Approx €35 per room | Restaurant  | Bar  | Air Con  | Pool  LEFT: Hotel Yasmina, perfectly situated beneath the 300m walls of the Main Gorge.

13

HOTEL – KASBAH

LAMRANI 

www.kasbahlamrani.com

R703

Supermarket W

Supermarket

Petrol

Towards the Todra Gorge (15km)

N10

N

S

Souq / Market

E

TINGHIR Towards Ourzazate Hotel Bougafer Hotel Kasbah Lamrani

N10

14

SUPPLIES

Lo g

ist

Supplies within the gorge itself are limited to a small shop next to Hotel La Valle, which sells bread, bottled water, and limited snacks. There are also a number of shops in the small village just before the entrance to the gorge, close to the Dar Ayour, offering simple but adequate supplies for a day at the crag.

ics

For a more extensive selection, climbers will need to travel to Tinghir, where there are a number of well-stocked supermarkets, as well as many smaller shops and bakeries. Fresh fruit, vegetables, and almost anything else that you might need, are available in the Souq (market) in the centre of town.

MONEY The local currency is the Moroccan Dirham (Dh or MAD) and the exchange rate is approximately 13Dh to ÂŁ1 Sterling. Most hotels accept payment in cash only, and cash machines are available on the main street in Tinghir, as well as at Marrakech and Agadir airports. The Dirham is a controlled currency and may only be exported up to a maximum amount of 1000Dh. Officials at Marrakech airport have been seen searching passengers to enforce this law.

CLIMBING SHOPS Climbing gear is available to buy or rent from the Adventures Verticales shop in the village below the gorge entrance. This company also organise guided climbing and via ferrata within the gorge, and are in the process of producing a comprehensive topo to the area.

GEAR Many of the single-pitch routes are 30 to 35m in length, so a 60 or 70m rope is advisable for cragging. For the longer routes, double or twin ropes are needed for abseil descents, along with a selection of trad gear including a set of nuts, camming devices, and slings. 12 to 15 quickdraws will complete a typical Todra rack.

FIXED ANCHORS As in most adventurous destinations, the quality of bolting in the gorge is variable, and climbers should ensure they have the relevant skills and experience to properly assess the condition and security of in-situ anchors. Many of the 15

16

popular routes have now been re-bolted using 10mm or 12mm expansion bolts, though some of the older, more difficult lines still feature some rather questionable fixed gear.

C li m

bin

g

Abseil anchors typically consist of a pair of bolts, often connected by tape or rope. Although Adventures Verticales have done a good job in replacing many old anchors it is left to individuals to assess the condition of the tat in these anchors, and replace it as necessary.

RECOMMENDED ROUTES The following routes give a good taste of Todra climbing for those visiting the gorge for the first time:

Tik Sab

Arête Nord L’Etute Crue Voie de Defile La Fissure Coeur de Palmier Pillier du Guetteur Soif d’Aujourd’hui Voie Abert La Classique Chibania Le Mur du Scorpion Tromba Bitonale Kif-Kif Bourricot Poissons Sacrés Satanico De Meuk Abert-Dan

5 5+ 5+ 6a 6a+ 6a+ 6a+ 6a+ 6a+ 6b- 6b 6b+ 6c 6c 6c 7a+ 8a 8a

Summer Gardens DeMeuk Right Summer Gardens Aiguille du Gue Dounab Plage Mansour Aiguille du Grabe DeMeuk Right Pilier du Couchant Pilier du Couchant Pilier du Couchant Scorpion Paroi du Levant Jardin d’Hiver Poisson Sacres Satanique DeMeuk Left Can Mutan

In addition, the following venues are particularly recommended for groups looking for single pitch cragging:

Petite Gorge Right Summer Gardens

LEFT: Looking down into the Main Gorge from the top pitch of the mighty Pilier du Couchant.

This superbly exposed pitch is shared between two of Todra’s best climbs: Chibania (6b) and La Classique (6b-).

17

18

Oth OTHER CLIMBING AREAS

er

Ar

Compared to many European sport destinations, the Todra Gorge is a relatively small, compact venue, and for most people it makes a perfect ‘shortbreak’ getaway. Those with a bit more time, however, will get the most out of this magical country by combining a visit to Todra with some of the other world-class climbing that Morocco has to offer. The following destinations are recommended:

ea

s

Tafraout The Anti-Atlas mountains around Tafraout are fast becoming Morocco’s most popular climbing destination, and today there are well in excess of 2000 recorded trad climbs between moderate and E7. Routes vary from roadside single-pitch climbs, right through to 800m alpine-style rock climbs.

Tafraout Pocket Guides (2014) ISBN: 978-0-9567288-5-2

www

www.climb-tafraout.com

Taghia Situated in the heart of the Atlas Mountains, the impressive Taghia Gorge holds some of the country’s most challenging limestone big-wall routes, many of them reaching 600 - 800m in height, mostly in the upper grades. The climbing here is remote and adventurous, with plenty of scope for new, hard big wall routes.

Taghia: Montagnes Berbères (2008)

www

http://www.christian-ravier.com/ Sites/taghia_topo.html

The High Atlas Many superb mountaineering opportunities exist in the Atlas Mountains, from easy walks, through to winter mountaineering routes and technical ice climbs. Further details can be found in the excellent Cicerone guidebook, which describes a selection of the best routes up to alpine AD. Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas ISBN: 978-0-9567288-5-2

www

www.cicerone.co.uk

LEFT: Will Benfold on Homme Libre (6b) in the Petite Gorge.

19

THE

TODRA GORGE N W

E

THE UPPER GORGE

S

Kilimanjaro Tacos Nord 28 27 Petite Gorge Right 26 29

Patchwork Family

30 Tacos Sud Petite Gorge Left

25

UPPER TIER OVERVIEW p61 Poisson Sacres 24 Chaos 17 Scorpion 23 Ansamer 22 Winter Gardens 21 Toxo Tiana Elephant 20 16 Can Mutan 19 15 Summer Gardens Regression & Baby Room Gullich 18 14 13 Demeuk Left Demeuk Right

C2 11 Dalle Hollandais 9 Plage Mansour Right 3 Plage Mansour Left 2 Hotel la Valle

Paroi du Levant

THE MAIN GORGE Jardin des Roches 8 Satanique Pilier du Couchant 7 6 Dounab 5 Aiguille du Grabe 4 Aiguille du Gue

Hotel Yasmina

12

10

Hotel el Mansour

1

ui

a Tizg

h Ait Ba

Towards Tinghir 0km

500m

1km

3

The Main Gorge

4

The Upper Tier

4

3

8 13 2 0

9

4

0

4

1

5

Aiguille du Gue Aiguille du Grabe

0

2

1

6

Dounab

1

6

4

0

7

1

8

Pilier du Couchant Satanique

0

7

3

9

Dalle Hollandais

5 22 4

10

10 2

0

11

Jardin des Roches C2

0

1

4

12

DeMeuk Right

1

4

7

13

DeMeuk Left

0

1

6

14 Regression & Baby Room 10 1

0

15

0

7

16

Petite Gorge

3

Summer Gardens Toxo Tiana

15 3

0 11 2

17

Chaos

0

8

18

Can Gullich

0

6 13

19

Can Mutan

0

3

20

Elephant

0 18 1

21

Winter Gardens

0 11 12

22

Ansamer

3

3

1

23

0

6

1

24

Scorpion Poisson Sacres

0

6

7

25

Patchwork Family

0

6

0

6

8

1

0

7

4

15 0

0

26 27

Petite Gorge Right Tacos Nord

28

Kilimanjaro

29

Petite Gorge Left

30

Tacos Sud

5 5

0 16 13 0

5

2

                                                           

Page Remote, adventurous routes

23

Sunny cragging in an attractive setting

25

Roadside multi-pitch routes

27

One of Todra’s best short multi-pitch routes 29 MAIN GORGE

Plage Mansour Left Plage Mansour Right

A good continuation to Aiguille du Grabe 31 Away from the crowds

33

The best, most famous routes in the Gorge! 35 Desperate, long adventures

39

As roadside as it gets - beware tourists!

41

Accessible, easy cragging

43

Hard routes through a cave roof

45

Two long, low grade classics

47

Roadside, noisy, and all very hard!

49

Good spot for beginners

51

Excellent single- and multi-pitch routes

53

Away from the crowds

57

Good, short, hard routes on boulders

59

Steep, pumpy, single-pitch routes

63

One of the valley’s greatest test-pieces

65

Mid-grade multi-pitch routes

67

Away from the crowds

69

The only easy routes on the Upper Tier

71

Excellent mid-grade multi-pitch

73

Hard, historic routes

75

Away from the crowds

77

Popular roadside cragging

79

Steep single-pitch routes

81

Great for beginners

83

Hard routes in the shade

85

Shady, roadside routes

89

UPPER TIER

Paroi du Levant

2

PETITE GORGE

1

Routes 4 – 5 Routes 6a – 6c Routes 7a – 8c Single Pitch Multi Pitch Sunshine Shade Roadside

= Recommended Venue

KSil iemcta 23 onrja sr o

21

1

5+

5+

5+

5+

5+

5+

6a+

6a+

2

5c+

6a+

6a+

3

4

6c

6c

6b

6b

5b

6a

5+

4 5

4+

6a

6b

6b+

9

7a+

7a

6c

6b+

6c

6b+

6b

6a+

6b

8

6c A0

6a

7

7a+

6c

6b+

6c+

6c+

6c

6c A0

6c+

6

7a

6c

7a

10

N

Paroi du Levant

W

E

20 min

Pa r

oi d

S

uL

The ‘sunrise wall’ is one of the most impressive of Todra’s sectors. All routes are serious undertakings that see little traffic.

1 eva

nt

2. Amazir 6a+

3. Tromba Bitonale 6c

4. Panorama 5+

5. Daw Lhma 5+

6. Unnamed 6c+

UPPER TIER

1. Asia 5+

MAIN GORGE

East Face

7. Larga Maria 7a+

PETITE GORGE

Often climbed with some aid at 6c A0

Often climbed with some aid at 6c A0

8. Kefech Fakir 6c 9. Shark 7a+

10. Yeh Badou Reggae 7a

Classic route / Itinéraire classique Unreliable equipment / Matériel peu fiable Bolts / Goujons

Trad gear / équipement traditionnel Descend by abseil / Descendre en rappel Descend on foot / Descendre à pied 23

6b+

5

1

6b+

5+

2

5+

3

6a+

4

6c

5

5+

6

6a+

6a

7

10

6b+

6b+

5 12

5+ 5+

6a+

7a+

8 9

6b+

6a A2

5+

11 13

6b+

17

6b

16

7b

18

6a

6a A1 6c+

5+

14 15

6b

19

6b

20

22

6b+

21

6a+

5+

6a+

6b+

6a+

23

N

Plage Mansour Left

W

E

3 min

P la g

eM

S

an

2 so

ur

Popular and sunny roadside cragging at the entrance to the gorge, with easy access from Hotel Mansour and La Vallee.

1. Unnamed 6b+ 3. Meritxell 5+

5. Unnamed 6c

6. Unnamed 5+

7. L’Habitation des Etoiles 6a+ 8. Voie Rosbif 7a+

9. Inchallah / Séjours Maroc 6a+ 10. Interrogation 5+ 11. Limonade 5+

12. Ali Baba 5 13. Trans 5+

14. Bricolage 5+

15. La Vallee 6b+

16. 7b Pour Une Âne 7b 17. Amiga Mia 6c+

18. Unnamed 6a

19. Castorama 6b

20. Amiga Mia 6b

21. Variation Hollandais 6b+

22. Coeur de Palmier 6a+

23. Saracosta 6a+

UPPER TIER

PETITE GORGE

4. Baba 6a+

MAIN GORGE

2. Borgoniacity 5+

25

7a

6c

6c

6c 6b+ 6c 6b 6b 6b+

6c+

6a+

6b

6a+

7b

6a+

6a

6a+

6a+

6b 6a+

6a 1 2

3

4

5

7

6

6b+ 8a

6c

8a

7b+

7b+

5+ 5+

7a A0

7b+

6b+

6a 6b+

5+

6c+

6b+ 6a A2

6b+ 6a A2

6a 6a+ A1 5+ 5+

7a+ 8

5+

7b 7a+

6b

4+

9

10

11

12

5+

13

N

Plage Mansour Right

W

E

2 min

P la g

eM

S

an

3 so

ur

A selection of harder multi-pitch climbs that are rather more adventurous than neighbouring Plage Mansour Left.

1. Aziz Bonne Étoille 7b

MAIN GORGE

2. China Perdida 6c

3. Voie des Dévoluards 6c

Only the first 5 pitches are equipped. Trad gear needed for the exit pitches.

4. Anabolica 6b+

6. Companera de mis Carnes 6b 7. Leparadis 6a+

9. Le Pont 6b

10. La Passerelle 7a 11. Unnamed 7b 12. Tislitmanzar 6b+

13. Roche Pourpre 6c+

Classic route / Itinéraire classique Unreliable equipment / Matériel peu fiable Bolts / Goujon

PETITE GORGE

8. Saha 8a

UPPER TIER

5. Pegui Cagabraga 6c+

Trad gear / équipement traditionnel Descend by abseil / Descendre en rappel Descend on foot / Descendre à pied 27

Easy

6a 5+

5+ 5+

5 6a

6c

1 2

3

6c

4

7a

5

N

Aiguille du Gue

W

E

2 min

A ig u

il l e

S

du

4 Gu

e

MAIN GORGE

This is the small but prominent pillar that guards the southern entrance to the Main Gorge. It remains in shade for much of the day, and gives one of Todra’s most popular mid-grade outings...

Northwest Face 1. Le Diedre 6a

2. Voie de Defile 6a

UPPER TIER

One of the most popular routes at Todra, with three excellent pitches up the arête to the right of the corner. Descend by abseil into the notch, then walk off to the south, or continue up the Pilier du Grabe (next page).

4. Sapo Bolo 6c

5. No More Fun 7a

Classic route / Itinéraire classique Unreliable equipment / Matériel peu fiable Bolts / Goujon

PETITE GORGE

3. Facala 6c

Trad gear / équipement traditionnel Descend by abseil / Descendre en rappel Descend on foot / Descendre à pied 29