Tafraout - Rock Climbing in Morocco's Anti-Atlas

Oxford Alpine Club

by Steve Broadbent

TAFRAOUT

Rock Climbing in Morocco's Anti-Atlas

VOLUME I - The South Side of Jebel el Kest and the Ameln Valley

Proceeds from the sale of this book will go towards the replacement of unsafe climbing anchors in the Anti-Atlas.

Tests by Black Diamond Equipment showed Kevlar exhibiting a 56% strength retention, and Spectra a 72% retention, after 400 hours exposure to UV. The Anti-Atlas receives an average of 3000 hours of sunshine per year, so even new-looking tat can be dangerously weakened.

The Oxford Alpine Club has been slowly replacing ‘soft’ anchors on popular abseils with steel cables and chains, which survive the intense sunshine throughout the summer. However, it is estimated that there are in excess of one hundred pieces of sun-damaged tat on routes in this guidebook, each one costing about £20 to replace with cable.

In order to maintain the adventurous ethic of Tafraout climbing we will only ever replace existing tat in natural threads or boulders, and only on recognised descents on popular crags. That means no bolts, and no damage to the rock.

READ MORE ONLINE AT www.climb-tafraout.com

TAFRAOUT

Rock Climbing in Morocco's Anti-Atlas Volume I The South Side of Jebel el Kest and the Ameln Valley 2nd Edition, 2013

by Steve Broadbent Published by the Oxford Alpine Club (UK) www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk ISBN 978-0-9567288-2-1 Š2013 Oxford Alpine Club All uncredited images, cartography and design by Steve Broadbent Š2013

The TAFRAOUT guidebook is due for publication autumn 2013

Order online at www.climb-tafraout.com

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Other than brief quotations for use in reviews, or personal use on a climb, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the author.

Nor should any text, images, or maps be used for commercial products without permission and acknowledgement of the author. The author and publisher accept no responsibility for any injury or loss caused as a result of using this guidebook. Images and text contained within this book do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of the Oxford Alpine Club or the University of Oxford.

Front Cover Photograph: Ben Lister catching the last of the day's sunshine on Skyline (HVS 5b) at Robin Hood Rocks.

Rear Cover Photograph: On the long descent from the Lion's Face, one of Tafraout's most famous formations and popular objective for optimistic climbers... several of whom end up spending the night up there! Photo by Malcolm Phelps

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5

Background Information – Introduction INTRODUCTION

Welcome to Tafraout – a magical climbing

oasis on the doorstep of Europe; a place where you can enjoy winter sun, good quality rock, and adventurous traditional climbs amidst the stunning sub-Saharan scenery. This is place with a little bit of everything, from roadside cragging, bouldering, and even the odd sport route, to epic mountain adventures.

It’s a paradise of enchanting pink granite and endless orange quartzite; a place immersed in an exotic culture and a relaxed attitude to life, where only the most adventurous tourists have ventured. For climbers who live and breathe traditional, ground-up climbing it’s hard to imagine a more suitable and convenient winter destination. Those who thrive on solitude, adventure, and a closeness to nature, need look no further.

As a climbing destination, Tafraout has rocketed into public awareness in recent years, but despite constant attention from European climbers since 1991, the

vast area of Jebel el Kest and the Anti-Atlas mountains easily absorbs the influx of visitors.

Climbing here is rather like stepping back in time to a period when unclimbed lines still littered our hillsides. Here you will find no polish on the rock, and with the exception of some chalk on the most popular routes, you will see little evidence of those who have passed before. A keen eye for route-finding will, therefore, make the difference between a pleasant ascent of a classic route, and a ‘brilliant’ off-route adventure.

Tafraout, however, is more than just another winter-sun climbing destination: it is a fascinating cultural journey, brimming with character, overflowing with adventure, and under-written by a bizarre colonialism.

Climbers motivated solely by grades and technical difficulty will perhaps miss out on Tafraout's greatest pleasures. Those who climb for the experience, the adventure, and arrive with a healthy sense of humour, on the other hand, are about to discover something very special indeed...

Photo by Martin Bennett

8

Background Information– Philosophy PHILOSOPHY The philosophy of guidebooks to this region has been a contentious topic ever since the area’s first guide was published in 2004. That work was deliberately vague in an attempt to maintain a sense of adventure amongst AntiAtlas climbers, and in doing so it certainly helped to enhance many aspects of the climbing here. In more recent years, however, the development of the shorter, roadside crags has created a natural requirement to record routes with a little more accuracy – after all, it would be difficult to be ‘deliberately vague’ when describing a 10m climb on a photo-topo.

Consequently, the 2010 guidebook Moroccan Anti-Atlas North adopted a new, more detailed approach, in-keeping with the style of routes it described, and suited to the new broader spectrum of climbers who were beginning to visit the region.

With barely any overlap with the ‘south side’, Moroccan Anti-Atlas North became the favoured option for those in search of good quality, easy to find, reliable cragging without the uncertainties that had come to epitomise south-side climbing.

This latest edition, however, attempts to address both requirements, and whilst it is recognised that there will always be those who prefer the absolute minimum of detail (a simple tech grade to describe an 800m climb...) the intention is to provide enough detail for those who seek it, without detracting from the wonderfully adventurous nature of Tafraout climbing. Consequently, some of

the popular classic climbs, as well as crags and routes that will suit groups, inexperienced parties and rest-day cragging fixes, have been described in full detail. Conversely, many of the original full-day adventures have been left with plenty of uncertainty, and many have been labelled with the ‘adventure’ or ‘unchecked’ symbol.

At the end of the day, this guidebook aims to provide two things: inspiration for those who relish adventure, and enough detail to overcome the infamous frustrations of locating Tafraout’s classic climbs. It is hoped that people will use it as much or as little as they see fit – and in the process have a wonderful and memorable climbing experience.

UNCH

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On the subject of philosophy...

Most of the routes in this guidebook have received few ascents, so gradings and star-ratings should be taken with a healthy pinch of salt. See the chapter on Grades and Stars on page 40.

9

Background Information – Getting to Tafraout A standard car will cost in the region of £150 to £200 per week at Agadir, and slightly more at Marrakech. Cheaper options are available downtown, but for most people the extra hassle of public transport into Agadir will not be worth the saving.

GETTING TO TAFRAOUT BY CAR Tafraout (alternatively Tafraout or Tafrawt) is located in the Anti-Atlas mountains, in the southwestern part of Morocco, and is most easily reached by car from the coastal resort of Agadir.

A number of major airlines fly from airports throughout the UK to Agadir – British Airways, Easyjet, Ryanair, and Thomsonfly, have all operated schedule services over the last few years, but for up to date information please check online at www.climb-tafraout. com. Flights tend to cost between £150 and £300 return, depending on time of year and day of the week.

All major car rental agencies have desks at Agadir Al Massira airport, as well as handful of local companies. Booking a car in advance can save money and time, so is recommended, particularly if you intend to arrive on a late evening flight. Many of the car-hire desks are only manned when they have bookings, or during busy periods, and most will close at 11pm – If your flight arrives after 10pm then it’s worth confirming opening hours with your rental agency, bearing in mind that it can take up to an hour to complete immigration.

All rental agencies accept major credit cards, and cars can either be paid for in advance (cheaper), or on collection. Most contracts include a basic Collision Damage Waiver, which will have a high excess, and you can expect to be offered the option to pay an extra charge at the desk to have this excess removed. When hiring a car it is advisable to check the condition of the spare wheel, and the presence of a jack, which has been known to be missing even when hiring from respectable international companies.

Cadiz

The drive south from Agadir Al Massira airport takes approximately 2½ hours via Biougra, Ait Baha, Tizourgane and Sidi M’Zal. Although the road is relatively good it can be something of an 'experience' for those unaccustomed to driving in this part of the world, particularly if completed in darkness.

The R105A is a twisting, mountain road with blind corners and steep drop-offs. It is also

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Background Information– Getting to Tafraout

Pete Cawley, hiding in the shade on the superb Skyline Corner (MVS) at Robin Hood Rocks. Page70

11

Background Information – Getting to Tafraout

the favoured route for heavy lorries which will tend to use most of the available width – care is advised.

From the airport, turn right and follow the dual-carriageway for 5km to a right turn, which leads along a long straight road to Biougra. This large market town can be very busy during rush hour or on market day, when pedestrians, donkeys, lorries, oblivious locals, and out-of-their depth westerners all share the road into town. At night it is worth paying particular attention to cyclists, who rarely have lights, and frequently cycle on the wrong side of the road.

The road comes to an end at a major T-junction. Turn left here, following the R105 out of town and on towards Ait Baha. A large quarry is passed on the left, just before the road begins its climb into the hills, and Ait Baha is reached in approximately 45 minutes.

Keep going straight on, passing the town on the right (there is a police station on the left).

Beyond Ait Baha bear right at the junction (ie follow the main road) and continue until the road snakes past a large reservoir. Just after this there is a fork, at which you can choose between the 105A (more mountainous, with more traffic) and the 105B (more rural, and probably the safer option). Both of these roads come back together again just before the famous Kasbah Tizourgane. Here, the north side of Jebel el Kest provides a magnificent backdrop to one of the best examples of a 12

The adventure begins... Ron Buckley asking for directions on the drive down to Tafraout.

Photo by Jim Nuttal

Moroccan Kasbah, and for climbers the sense of excitement grows as vast quartzite crags begin to drift in and out of view to the southwest.

Almost immediately before the walled village itself there is a turning to the right that is sometimes incorrectly sign-posted to Tafraout (this road actually leads to the market town of Idaougnidif, and on to the superb climbing valleys of Afantinzar and Samazar).

Instead, keep on the main road, following it passed Madao (Madaw), Sidi M’Zal, Tizi N’Tarakatine, and then to a prominent threeway junction, with signs to Igherm (left) and Tafraout (right). Turn right, climbing up towards the crest of the mighty Tarakatine Pass, from where the full extent of the Ameln Valley and the south face of Jebel el Kest come magnificently into view.

Descending into the Ameln Valley, the high Tifghalt crags are passed on the right, before Tizgut Ridge blocks the view into the Tizgut Gorge, where Joe Brown’s legendary Tizgut Crack lurks. On past Oumsnat, to the famous Lion’s Face (you won’t recognise it from this angle), and the main junction in Ameln – reference point for most of the driving directions in this book. Follow the road round to the left, and Tafraout is just around the corner...

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From Marrakech via Asni & the Tizi N’Test Pass

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Volume I : South

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Map p58

Tagmout – Robin Hood Rocks Tagmout

40m

30m

YES

NO

NO

Hitch

NO

1

Anergui

20m

2

Igordan

3

Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

4

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Skyline Buttress

Robin Hood

Crag Overview page 61

PM

30m

Adrar Imtwan Aitihaj Citadel Maid Marion

Skyline Buttress

1) 15m (5c) Climb the wide corner crack with

Tucked away at the top of the crag, above and behind the Tower of Terror, lies one of Robin Hood's unexpected gems. There's not much here, but what there is is of superb quality in a delightful setting, and an ascent of Skyline at sunset is a genuine treat.

The approach is certainly the longest at the crag, but is not unpleasant and only takes about thirty minutes. Follow the broad gully up towards Centenary Buttress and Olympia.

Opposite Olympia there is a prominent vegetated gully leading up to the ridge that runs up to the Bunny Ears. Scramble up this gully to cross through a notch in the ridge, from where Skyline Buttress is clearly visible.

From the left side of the buttress it is an easy scramble down leftwards into the vegetated gully. For routes up the right-hand buttress the easiest descent is a 20m abseil from a block on the summit.

1. Champagne HVS 5c

GEAR

WIDE

25m. A superb climb, with two contrasting pitches.

70

difficulty, pulling past the overlap and into the chimney above. Belay on a large chockstone.

2) 10m (4c) A magnificent, airy pitch up the arete to the left, with good but spaced protection.

2. Borax HVS 5c

WIDE

25m. This route shares the first pitch with the previous route, but continues more easily up the obvious corner above.

Photo page 58

3. Skyline Corner MVS 4a

ABSEIL

WIDE

20m. The obvious wide corner crack gives

a very pleasant climb that eases with height.

Beware of a dangerously loose flake at the euphorbia low down on the route.

4. Skyline HVS 5b

ABSEIL

GEAR

20m. A sustained and highly photogenic climb in a fine setting. Start up a difficult layback in the corner (crux), then swing right onto the front face. Shake out, then launch up the superb pumpy face above, with good protection in the right-slanting cracks.

Photo page11

40m

20m

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

NO

Map p58

Tagmout – Robin Hood Rocks The Bunny Ears

Tagmout

Dominating the other buttress at Robin Hood, the distinctive ‘Bunny Ears’ present a very attractive ridge-line running from the curiously shaped summit down to Centenary Buttress.

Attempts to gain the summit from the top of Centenary Buttress have all been thwarted by steep rock or unappealing vegetation, but the upper section above Skyline Buttress provides an excellent climb and the only long route of the crag.

The upper ridge starts from a prominent notch immediately opposite Skyline Buttress, reached in approximately twenty minutes from the road. Walk up the broad couloir between Centenary Buttress and Olympia until a steep gully cuts into the right wall directly opposite the top of Olympia. Scramble up this gully to gain the notch (this is the approach to Skyline Buttress).

Sarah Pemberton enjoying superb alpine terrain on the summit ridge of the Bunny Ears, after the first ascent of Sun Ribbon Arête (Severe).

This page

The Bunny Ears PM

20m

Crag Overview page 61

The summit of the Bunny Ears cannot be reached without climbing, and the descent along the northeast ridge is still very much part of the next route. From the end of the ridge it is a straightforward walk down the left (north) side back to Olympia and Goat Buttress.

5. Sun Ribbon Arête Severe

340m. The southwest ridge up to the Bunny

Ears is the only long route at the crag and is an excellent climb with a distinctly alpine character. An initial steep pitch from the notch leads to extensive easy ridge climbing, then a fine finish up unlikely looking slabs. Stay on the crest for the best climbing. 260m to the summit, then 80m along the northeast ridge to gain the hillside.

Photo this page

5

71

Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Robin Hood Adrar Imtwan Aitihaj Citadel Maid Marion

Anergui – Black Crag Tagmout

Map p97

40m

20m

YES

NO

NO

Hitch

NO

AD THE ANERGUlnI toRO the Angels”

Anergui

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Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

ed on the flanks The village of Anergui is construct above sea level.

0m 147 at if mass of Jebel el Kest ous road, the infam the of ion Before the construct a mule track, the village was only accessible via the village usually ascent from the main road to taking in excess of 4 hours.

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat

ed to construct a In 1974 the local people decid e with the main villag the up link d road that woul the government, and road. The people appealed to visited to investigate several government engineers To them, however, it the possibility of construction. seemed technically impossible.

Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt

e of Ali Ouanou, A local craftsman by the nam and agricultural skilled in the construction of wells , contrary done be could it that terraces, claimed the government to the professional opinions of went on to supervise engineering departments. He of Tiznit, M. Moulay the work, whilst The Governor financial support for Mehdi Alaoui, gave the initial the project. ed using nothing The first 3km were construct r, before the but hand tools and manual labou ed Laalaje, assured succeeding Governor, M. Ahm ct. Three stretches continuing support for the proje leted, the steepest of the road were initially comp for 600m of unsection costing 14,000 Euros ated that the estim is it , total In . track ced surfa ) road cost in -able drive but ced, surfa initial (uns.

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Black Crag Long Crag Anergui Canyon Jebel el Kest Upper Crag Main Crag Playground

was sensitive to The non-sealed road, however, tenance reached erosion and the cost for main t, the locals opted 1000 Euros each year. As a resul s with concrete, part tive sensi most the orce to reinf a project – e metr per s Euro 90 of at a cost 0s and has 199 the since ing ongo been which has ing the reach from ers climb d ente frequently prev year. Today, the 8km village for several weeks each near Igordan to the road, from the Ameln Valley letely surfaced village of Anergui, is almost comp essive drives in the and offers one of the most impr Anti-Atlas.

The inimitable Chris Bonington on the then un-climbed south face of Black Crag at Anergui, enjoying an April Fool (HVS 4c) with Graham Little and Richard Haszko, and proving that there’s still plenty of good lines to be had out there...

Opposite page. Photo by Graham Little

98

40m

MULTI PITCH

YES

20m

NO

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p97

Descent from the top of the wall is straightforward – turn right and head north to descend the obvious broad gully to the right (north) of the crag.

Black Crag (Crag AX)

Approach: 20m Aspect: South and east facing.

Sunshine most of the day.

4

6

Anergui – Black Crag

2

Speciality: Perfect quartzite and great views across to one of Tafraout’s biggest crags.

Area Map: Page 96

Although it is dwarfed by the enormous Lower and Upper crags which it faces, Black Crag would be a major and popular climbing ground in most other locations. This tower-like crag of solid quartzite holds a good selection of climbs that tend to be steep, bold, and uncompromising; typically 2 or 3 pitches and in excess of 300ft in height. The crag has a hidden and overhanging west face, a very steep south face, split by a prominent chimney, and a slabby east face, on which most of the climbing has been recorded.

The crag is directly opposite the main crag at Anergui, and is accessed via a short approach across terraces. From the parking at the end of the road, take the good path northwards until the way across to the crag is clearly visible.

The South Face

Tagmout Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

1. Hair of the Dog HVS 4c

140m. Climbs the left side of the face, though

the exact line is uncertain.

1) 45m (4c) Climb the first pitch of April Fool then traverse the rock ledge leftwards for 10m to a belay.

2) 50m (-) Climb up to a patch of vegetation then follow a shattered ramp up right to a small ledge.

3) 30m (4c) Climb to the top of the shattered ramp then move out left and up steep rock to gain easier ground.

4) 15m (-) Finish straight up.

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

2. April Fool HVS 4c

145m. Well to the left of the prominent

chimney there is a scrub-filled recess. This route starts a couple of metres to the right of that recess.

1) 35m (4c) Climb the wall, trending slightly left, then continue straight up to reach the left

Black Crag Long Crag Anergui Canyon Jebel el Kest Upper Crag Main Crag Playground

2

Photo by Graham Little

3

Black Crag South Face 30m

99

Anergui – Jebel el Kest Tagmout Anergui

MOUNTAIN

Igordan

Speciality: A superb high mountain scramble with peerless views.

Area Map: Page 96

Lost World Lion's Face

Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Black Crag Long Crag Anergui Canyon Jebel el Kest Upper Crag Main Crag Playground

Approach: 1hr45 Aspect: South facing.

Sunshine and perfect quartzite.

1

Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Oumsnat

Jebel el Kest

Map p97

40m

1hr45

YES

NO

NO

Hitch

NO

The view from the summit is nothing short of spectacular, and on a clear day it is possible to see as far as the Atlas Mountains, the Atlantic Ocean and the Sahara Desert all at the same time – an unparalleled privilege, and perhaps a highlight of an Anti-Atlas climbing trip.

An ascent, therefore, is not only strongly recommended, but perhaps also a rite of passage for repeat visitors to Tafraout willing to expend a bit of energy!

At 2375m above sea level, the summit of Jebel el Kest is the highest point on the escarpment, and a very special place indeed.

The mountain dominates the Anti-Atlas, defining its geography, shaping its landscape, and influencing its people. It is the provider of water to hundreds of settlements that outline its periphery and, not surprisingly, is one of Tafraout's most important tourist attractions.

From Anergui there is a good path heading north out of the village towards a steep, narrow col, up which the path ascends (see overview photo on page 108). It continues around the flank of Anergui's upper crag, then swings rightwards into high pastures, from where the distinctive triangular summit pyramid is clearly visible.

Adventure companies guide clients to this magnificent summit throughout the year, often ascending from the Ameln valley with an overnight stop in Tagdicht, from where the mountain presents its easiest line of ascent. The walk from the village involves approximately 1000m of height gain in just over 4km, making for a steep and challenging hike that is popular with tourists from within Morocco as well as overseas.

500m. A superb scramble to the roof of the

From Anergui, Jebel el Kest is hidden, and the way is less obvious. But for climbers it presents a more interesting solution: a slightly shorter walk, less height gain, and the tempting possibility of combining an ascent with some tremendous mountaineering.

106

1. South Ridge Easy massif, featuring typically intricate 'Berber' route-finding, perfect rock, and plenty of exposure. The way is marked by small cairns, but these can be difficult to follow, particularly in descent. Big drops and a couple of tricky moves put this very much in the category of a 'climb' rather than a walk.

A) Start from the col at the foot of the south ridge, scrambling up and traversing left to

40m

1hr45

YES

NO

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p97

Anergui – Jebel el Kest Tagmout Anergui

JEBEL EL KEST

Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut

a gully. Go up this to a cairned weakness in the left wall.

B) Climb the wall, trending up left into a groove system. Follow this to easier ground and walk to another gully on the right. The way ahead looks uninviting.

C) A narrow ledge traverses the left wall of the gully, disappearing at a tricky exposed step up to easier ground (hard to spot in descent).

D) Easy ground moving back right and following the ridge to the summit shelters.

Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Black Crag Long Crag Anergui Canyon

To descend, reverse the route (tricky) or descend the north ridge, cutting back south to regain the south col when possible (longer).

Jebel el Kest Upper Crag Main Crag Playground

1

107

Map p121

Igordan – Darkside

15m

15m

YES

NO

NO

Hitch

NO

Tagmout Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Joe Brown on the first ascent of B3 (Severe) at Crag B, a fine example of Ameln’s traditional alphanumerical naming convention! Page 126 Photo: Claude Davies collection

Crag BX Crag B Darkside

CRAGGING

Cheshire Cheese

Darkside

Approach: 15 minutes Aspect: Northeast facing.

Shade for most of the day.

1 Speciality: A useful escape from the heat on nearby Cheshire Cheese Crag.

Area Map: Page 121

This shady tower is actually the right-hand (eastern) end of a prominent area of darkcoloured rock to the east of the Igordan slabs.

It is best approached from parking at the end of a poor dirt-track which is signposted “Japon”, about 1km before the Anergui turn-off from the main Ameln road. The approach is as for Cheshire Cheese Crag – see page 129.

1. Crack Attack HVS 5a

150m. This route climbs the left-hand of two

cracks in the shady east face.

1) Start 5m left of the crack, avoiding the overhang. Move up rightwards then work right along a ledge to gain a boulder belay.

2) Move back left and follow the crack to the top. Photo page 137

128

1

Darkside SHADE

15m

15m

CRAGGING

20m

NO

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p121

Igordan – Cheshire Cheese Crag Tagmout

Cheshire Cheese Crag

Approach: 20-25 minutes Aspect: Various.

Lots of sun, but shade is possible for much of the day.

17

Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

9

Lost World

Speciality: Superb, low-grade, sunny cragging with easy descents and a friendly atmosphere.

Area Map: Page 121

Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim

An unexpected gem, tucked away at the west end of the Ameln Valley. This fine little crag has an easy approach, straightforward descents, and is nowhere near as crumbly as its name might suggest! In fact, for those operating in the lower grades the excellent collection of short, friendly routes makes for a very enjoyable rest-day from the more adventurous crags hereabouts.

Turn right off the main Ameln Valley road about 1km before the Tanalt / Anergui turning, along a rather poor dirt-track which is signposted “Japon”. Follow this, heading straight on for the mountains and avoiding any temptation to turn-off on better-looking tracks.

The track eventually ends at a good parking area on the right side, from where it continues as a footpath. Follow this a short way until it joins a dry river bed at some pipelines. Walk

Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Rachel Mellor following the first pitch of Blacksticks Blue (Severe) at Cheshire Cheese Crag.

Page 131

Crag BX

up the dry river bed for about ten to fifteen minutes until below a shady tower on the left side – this is The Dark Side (see previous page).

From here, Cheshire Cheese Crag is visible up to the right, reached in some ten minutes

Darkside

Northern Soul

Cracker

Peekamoon Main Crag

East Tower Sunset Rib

Dark Side Pinnacle Buttress

129

Crag B

Cheshire Cheese

Map p158

Lion's Face Area – Black Crag Tagmout Anergui

CRAGGING

Igordan

Lion's Face

Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Crag E Black Crag

8

2

Speciality: Good single pitch climbs that often remain cool during hot weather.

Area Map: Page 159

Lost World

Aguchtim

Approach: 30 minutes Aspect: North facing.

Lots of shade throughout the day.

2

Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Oumsnat

Black Crag, Tazult

This super little crag lies hidden from view behind a subsidiary ridge-line above Tazult but can be easily seen when looking down from Crag E. It has not been extensively developed, although most of the best lines have been climbed. There is certainly enough here to warrant a visit, but a route on Black Crag is also a possibility following a longer climb on Crag E, or even Crag F, both of which are only a short distance away. The crag remains in shade for much of the day, and is therefore an excellent choice during spells of hot weather, when the thought of spending another long day in the sun does not seem appealing.

10m

30m

NO

YES

YES

Hitch

YES

The approach is fairly straightforward from a parking area at the end of the road in Tazult (see map page 159 and description on page 160).

Follow the path a short way until it passes between two houses. Turn left here to follow water-pipes up the hill past ancient buildings.

After about 15m this path reaches The Sentinel (see page 171). Continue beyond this a short way to small fields on the next flat level, from where an easy walk leftwards across the hillside gains the crag.

Routes are described from left to right. All have short, straightforward descents.

The Main Crag This is the longer, left-hand of the two crags.

At its left end is a left-trending ramp line underneath a black wall, with a pedestal just to the right.

1. Black Velvet HVS 5a

UNCHECKED

15m. Starts just to the left of Route 2, moving diagonally up left to tiptoe through a scoop.

Crag F Sentinel Crag G Crag H Tasga Crag Lion’s Face

2 1

3

Crag LX Crag M Asgaour Gorge

4 5

Crag K

6

Tandelt

Black Crag Main SHADE

162

30m

7

8

9

10m

30m

NO

YES

YES

Hitch

YES

Map p158

2. Route 2 Very Difficult

15m. Follows the left edge of the pedestal, then the continuation corner above.

3. Original Route HVS 5a

15m. Climbs the crack just to the right of the pedestal.

Further right is a large detached pinnacle, and right again is a steep wall. The next route climbs the arête to the right of the pinnacle.

4. Block Rockin Beat VS 4b

20m. A nice line up the arête to the right of

the gully, just right of the pinnacle. Start in the gully, quickly moving up right onto the arête and face to a steep finish.

5. Ebony and Ivory E2 5c

BOLD

20m. Hard climbing, starting 5m to the right of the previous route by a white tree. Climb small edges to gain the faint crack, which provides marginal protection in the form of small wires. A few more hard moves remain before things ease off.

Lion's Face Area– Black Crag 7. Bohemia HVS 5a

Tagmout

20m. A very fine and varied climb up the rib

Anergui

and slab just right of the overhang-capped gully, about 10m left of Sihad. Start just right of the arête and make some difficult moves on small holds to reach jugs through steeper ground. This leads to a sumptuous finale up the upper wall. Super stuff. Photo page11164

8. Sihad E1 5b

BOLD

15m. A rather bold outing up the obvious

rising traverse at the right side of the wall. The start is poorly protected, and hard, but things ease considerably above.

9. Our Cousin The Starfish MVS 4b

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt

20m. A pleasant climb. Start below a broken

gully and make bold moves off the ground to gain the gully. Move left above, to finish up the excellent face and weakness in the capping overhangs.

Riverbed Buttress

6. Intergalactic Social Blunder HVS 5a

This is the smaller buttress located down to the right of the previous routes, just above a dry stream bed.

20m. An excellent climb that provides

10. Target Practice VS 4a

challenge and amusement in equal measures.

Start up the left wall of the overhang-capped gully, following a flake system to below the overlap. Pull through this with good protection to an easier finish.

Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

25m. Start up a black groove to a ledge at 2/3

height. Move left and finish up a taxing crack.

11. Zig Zag Severe 4a

20m. A technically demanding climb at this grade. The route starts up a line of flakes at the right side of the crag, breaking right at half-height.

Granite

Crag E Black Crag Crag F Sentinel Crag G Crag H Tasga Crag Lion’s Face Crag LX Crag M Asgaour Gorge Crag K Tandelt

Riverbed Buttress 10 11

SHADE

30m

163

Lion's Face Area – First Ascents Tagmout Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Crag E Black Crag Crag F Sentinel Crag G Crag H Tasga Crag Lion’s Face Crag LX Crag M Asgaour Gorge

First Ascents in the Lion’s Face Area Face was a major undertaking and the greatest 1992 The Traverse. Les Brown & Pete Turnbull.

1993 Joe Brown and Claude Davies explored the couloirs on the east bank of the gully leading up to the Lion’s Face. They set off up an attractive line, only to come across an area of very poor and dangerous rock after two pitches, at which point they prudently retreated by abseil.

Meanwhile, an equally strong team consisting of Les Brown, Pete Turnbull and Trevor Jones set off up a series of corners at the right side of the wall, also hoping to bag the first ascent of Crag LX. Close to half-way up the wall their attempt was shut down by an overhanging wide crack, forcing them into a multi-pitch abseil descent down loose ground. On the final pitch, after continuous concerns about the quality of the rock, a sharp flake cut through Turnbull’s rope and a serious accident was miraculously avoided.

The face then remained untouched for some seven years, until Ben and Marion Wintringham arrived at an abseil sling, having been intent on the first ascent of the alluring corner up the centre of the wall, unaware of the previous failed attempts. On reaching the aging sling, of course, they realised what had happened and retreated to the gully below.

1995 David. L & D. Brown.

Lion's Face Original. Paul Ross & Les Brown.

The first ascent of Tafraout's famous Lion's Comment in the Tafraout Area New Route Book, held at the Hotel Les Amandiers in Tafraout. The tat left by Brown and Davies marked the first of several retreats from the ellusive central couloir between 1993 and 2007.

Crag K Tandelt

214

adventure-route yet attempted on the massif.

It was the first of the three enormous classic Lion's Face climbs to be completed by Brown, who dedicated himself to this summit in the late nineties. His original description in the Tafraout New-Route Book reads as follows: "Climb the grey buttress leading to the chin of the lion. Go up the wall to the west of the mouth until it is possible to traverse right and ascend directly to its nose on the west side. Climb to the eye and cross onto the bridge of the nose, then take the vertical furrow in its brow. 9 pitches, 300m+, grade 5+.

Kern Knotts Chimney. Paul Ross & Trevor Jones.

Ahmed. Les Brown & Pete Turnbull & R.Warner.

Right Arête. Les Brown & Trevor Jones.

Right Edge. Claude Davies & Pete Turnbull.

Left Edge. Paul Ross & Trevor Jones.

Father and Son. L & D.Brown Pete's Dilemma. Les Brown, D.Brown & Pete Turnbull.

1996 Trevor's Farewell. Joe Brown & Trevor Jones.

Corner & Slab. Paul Ross & Joe Brown.

Alternative (M). Les Brown & Pete Turnbull.

Rambler. Claude Davies & Pete Turnbull.

1997 Lion's Face Ridge. Les Brown, Claude Davies, Derek Walker & Pete Turnbull.

The second of the ' big-three' Lion's Face classics built on previous reconnaissances of the mountain, and unlocked the key to the descent route – a vital piece in solving the Great Ridge between 1994 and 1998.

1998 Trident Centre. Les Brown & Pete Turnbull.

The Great Ridge. Les Brown & Pete Turnbull.

The ascent of the epic Great Ridge involved 4 attempts by the determined Les Brown over 3

Lion's Face Area– First Ascents

Les Brown, Pete Turnbull & Trevor Jones on the first abortive attempt on the impressive west face of Crag LX. This route was subsequently climbed with one bivouac by Derek Walker and Les Brown several years later to give Deception Corners (E1 5b). Page 195 Photo: Claude Davies collection

years. The first was with Trevor Jones in 1994 when they came to a halt fairly low down on the first pinnacle.

The next attempt involved Pete Turnbull and Roy Warner. The group reached the summit of the first pinnacle to find that an abseil was then required to gain a narrow col. The climbing had involved some difficult sections with challenging route-finding, and consequently they had expended more time than expected.

It was obvious that to continue would involve a bivouac, so they placed a piton and abseiled into the unknown gully below. The descent involved two further abseils and down-climbing in gullies on the back side of the pinnacle to eventually access the top of the long ramp that provides the way off from routes on Crag H. By this time, of course, it was pitch black, but

the attempt had enabled them to study the remaining section that would lead to the summit of the Lions Face.

The third visit was with Trevor Jones, when they by-passed the pinnacle, scrambling to the col via narrow couloirs, where to their great surprise they encountered a goat herder and flock of goats.

The route above continued as a narrow ridge and provided rapid progress to the summit. More adventure, however, was still to come as the pair failed to spot the goat path which leads back down to the Asgaour Gorge. Instead, they descended too early and were confined to yet another epic in the unpleasant gully below Crag M. All of the challenges of the Great Ridge had now been solved, but it still awaited a complete ascent.

That prize went (thankfully, after all his efforts!) to Brown and Turnbull in 1998 who completed the ridge in one long day, descending via the goat track that they' d missed last time.

The route remains a formidable challenge as an 'on-sight' endeavour, even for fast parties.

The Abyss. Joe Brown & Derek Walker.

Balni. Claude Davies & R.Salisbury 1999 Barbi, Great Schism. Joe Brown & Claude Davies.

Small Talk. Claude Davies, R.Warner & Pete Turnbull.

2000 Lion’s Claw, Black Panther. Ben & Marion Wintringham.

After an abortive attempt at the great central couloir on Crag LX in 1993, the pair turned their efforts instead to the equally impressive corners higher up the gully. Their subsequent ascents of Lion’s Claw and Black Panther were completed in typically confident style, creating the first routes on the crag and ending a 7-year jinx that had plagued the whole team since 1993.

Left Ramp. Les Brown, Pete Turnbull, R & H. Warner.

Right Ramp. Les Brown, Pete Turnbull & R.Warner.

Terra Nova. Claude Davies, Les Brown & Derek Walker.

Canaan, Outer Space. Joe Brown & Claude Davies.

2001 Stiff Start. Joe Brown & Derek Walker.

Hospitality Attack. N.Dyer & J.Spancken.

Hidden Crack. Joe Brown, Chris Bonington & Derek Walker.

The Pinnacle. Derek Walker, Les Brown & Claude Davies.

Gryps. Joe Brown, Claude Davies, Pete Turnbull & R.Warner.

215

Tagmout Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Crag E Black Crag Crag F Sentinel Crag G Crag H Tasga Crag Lion’s Face Crag LX Crag M Asgaour Gorge Crag K Tandelt

Map p257

Tizgut – The Tizgut Gorge

20m

30m

YES

YES

Hitch

NO

NO

Tagmout Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut

1

Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Tizgut Gorge

4

East Wall (left end)

Diamond Crag

2

Crag T PM

Buzzard Crag

40m 3

The East Wall (Crag S) The steeper, right (true left) wall of the Tizgut Gorge is home to some of Tafraout’s most infamous test-pieces. Routes are described from left to right, working down the gorge from the upper left end.

All routes finish on a broad slanting terrace, from where it is possible to descend either left (down-climb required) or right (walking).

1. Trivial Pursuit Severe

50m. The slabby ground at the top of the

main gorge gives one of the crag’s few good easy climbs.

The following climb has been affected by recent rock fall, but has seen subsequent ascents at the same grade, trending left at the top.

2. Salus VS 4c

CRACK

80m. This superb ‘little’ corner, tucked away at

the left side of the main face is a much bigger

262

climb than first appearances suggest, and one of the best VS climbs in the gorge.

3. Tizgut Rib VS 4c

80m. The rib just to the right is one of the crag’s classic ‘ticks’ and well worth a visit.

4. Ahmed VS 4c

100m. A meandering line up the right side of the slabby ground.

5. Tizgud Crack E2 5b

CRACK

120m. Not to be confused with the rather more famous Tizgut Crack, this challenging climb starts some 10m left of Tagine, below the left hand of two twin cracks.

1) 45m (5b) Climb the crack with considerable difficulty up an ‘Amen Corner’ to a groove.

Follow this before stepping left to a belay on Ahmed.

2) 45m (5a) Move back right around the rib to the bottom of the upper crack. Climb this,

20m

30m

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p257

with a short excursion onto the right wall and a superbly positioned finish.

3) 30m (4c) The wall above eventually eases.

STEEP

6. Tizgut Diagonal E2 5c

CRACK

120m. A big route up the left side of the

impressive central buttress, featuring both steep and bold climbing with some exposed positions.

1) Start up Tagine to gain an obvious lefttrending diagonal crack. This leads to a belay below a crack in the upper arête.

2) Climb the crack on the right side of the arête, step right and finish up a bold slab.

STEEP

7. Tagine E2 5c

CRACK

125m. A brilliant crack climb, providing a fine and uncompromising alternative to Tizgut Crack. Start up the finger-hand crack and climb for two pitches (5b, 5c) to a belay on top of a pillar. Finish up a groove as for Tizgut Buttress.

10

Tizgut – The Tizgut Gorge STEEP

8. Wagha Wagha Wagha E3 6a

Tagmout

110m. Another audacious climb up the

Anergui

intimidating steep wall left of Tizgut Crack.

Climb up a thin crack between Tagine and Tizgut Crack, to reach good gear in the overlap.

Move down to traverse a line of footholds into the centre of the wall, then climb a hanging flake onto the upper wall. The original way went left here to join Tizgut Buttress, but a better finish goes up right beneath more overlaps to a strenuous finale.

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim

STEEP

9. Tizgut Crack E1/2 5b

WIDE

100m. Joe Brown’s unmissable quartzite

masterpiece is one of Tafraout’s most infamous climbs; and rightly so. This epic corner-crack is everything you’d expect, and then a little bit more, providing a full-on, world-class wide crack experience. E1 with plenty of big cams... more like E2 without.

1) 35m (5b) Sustained climbing up the unrelenting crack, which gets wider, harder, and altogether more emotional as height is gained. Step right to a sloping stance by a huge flake.

2) 40m (5b) A couple of tricky moves on suspect rock gain easier ground, from where one final well-protected move in a steep corner marks the end of the difficulties.

3) 20m (-) Easy climbing to the top.

Photos pages 11, 254 and 266

Tizgut Crack 4 PM

40m

7

10

5

11 6

Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

8

9

263

Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Tizgut Gorge Diamond Crag Crag T Buzzard Crag

Sidi Abdeljabbar – Prophet Peak Tagmout Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Prophet Peak Riverside Buttress Crag Y Pinnacles

278

Map p277

15m

1hr+

YES

NO

NO

Hitch

YES

1hr+

15m

MOUNTAIN

YES

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NO

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YES

Map p277

Prophet Peak

Approach: 1hr 30 Aspect: South facing.

Plenty of sunshine, but high altitude tends to keep temperatures down.

2 Speciality: Long alpine ridges with superb views.

Area Map: Page 277

The left-most summit in the magnificent cirque above the Sidi Abdeljabbar drainage tops 2000m in altitude and is home to a couple of excellent long climbs. Prophet Peak, however, is a reclusive mountain, hiding behind the Tizgut Ridge and very much keeping itself to itself. When driving down the Ameln road we are afforded the merest glimpse by the Abdeljabbar drainage; a view that can only hint at the alpine nature of this superb summit. Climb a route here, however, and Prophet Peak will, all of a sudden, stand out from every viewpoint in the valley – a unique and prominent jagged peak, and one of the most identifiable on the escarpment.

Sidi Abdeljabbar – Prophet Peak pilgrimage, is to park at Tizgut and follow a vague trail up the south side of the valley towards a prominent col between Prophet Peak and the Tizgut Ridge.

Descent from the main summit is via the major gully system to the east of the peak.

From the summit cairns head in a northeasterly direction to a short down-climb. This gains a devious system of ramps which can be followed to the hillside below. Turn southeast, descending into the gully to the east of the summit, soon arriving at a steep constriction.

The ancient Berber trail to the summit of Prophet Peak makes use of a chockstone-bridge and wobbly balanced steps to overcome this section, but climbers encountering this in descent for the first time will almost certainly use a rope, either to protect the worrying downclimb or to abseil past it. Below the constriction ropes can be put away, and the gully followed with relative easy down to the cirque.

The first half of this descent, as far as the chockstone bridge, is very difficult in the dark.

Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Prophet Peak Riverside Buttress Crag Y

Despite the distinctly mountainous and adventurous nature of the climbs here, the rock is generally excellent, and vegetation on routes is minimal. This makes the two long ridges here amongst the finest routes of their kind in the region, and parties looking for low-grade, alpine 'scrambles' will not be disappointed.

Pinnacles

Both routes are long mountain endeavours that require a speedy approach, particularly during the winter months. Competence in route finding and moving together over easy ground will be of benefit, although the possibility of escape after the third pinnacle reduces the overall seriousness.

Two approaches are possible. The first is from the parking area at Sidi Abdeljabbar, as described on the previous page. Allow approximately 1hr30 to reach the base of the peak. Pinnacle Ridge is then gained by walking up a diagonal terrace leading to a notch on the left skyline (see topo). The second approach, useful during the annual Sidi Abdeljabbar

Tagmout

Prickly vegetation is part of the fun in Morocco!

Katja Broadbent on Mountaineer's Route (Severe) on Prophet Peak. Page 280

After 600m of climbing Pinnacle Ridge (Severe) culminates in a crucial crux pitch above the final notch. Stepping off the exposed finger of rock is probably the highlight of a magnificent climb, and enough to cause apprehension in even the strongest of leaders. Page 280

279

Map p286

Tifghalt – Tarakatine Pass

20m

20m

YES

NO

YES

Hitch

YES

Tagmout Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World Lion's Face

6 2

1

Oumsnat

3

Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Bar Rain

4. Unnamed Severe 4a

The attractive slabby buttress to the right of Takeshi’s Castle holds a handful of easy slab routes:

6m. The blunt arête below a wide slab.

1. Bar Rain Severe

6m. Climb the crack to a finish over loose

6m. The thin crack up the wall left of the White Tower Raven Crag White Shadow Point 1973 Profanisaurus Hidden Wall Tifghalt Lower

5. Berber Douche Severe 4a

LOOSE

blocks.

central scoop.

Victory Buttress

2. Bubble Trouble Difficult

Right of the slabs of Bar Rain, the crag swings round the corner and an ancient path crosses up through the upper tier. Beyond this is a fine tall buttress with a number of excellent climbs.

6m. The central scoop in the front of the slab.

3. Fernet Branca Severe 4a

7m. The slab to the right of the fin.

Further right there is a buttress with a crack up the left side. The following climbs have been reported:

Tifghalt Upper

6. Cold Feet Mild Severe

8m. The shady groove up the left side of the buttress gives a worthwhile climb.

Victory Buttress PM

Crag V Crag W Tarakatine Adrar Idekel

7

336

8

20m

20m

20m

YES

NO

YES

Hitch

YES

Map p286

Tifghalt – Tarakatine Pass Tagmout Anergui

9

10 11

Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

12 13

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut

7. Battle Royale VS 4b

8m. The front of the prominent pillar is an excellent climb on good rock.

8. Victory Groove Severe

8m. The v-groove to the right gives one of

the best routes of its grade hereabouts. Climb the fine initial groove, then step left into the upper groove.

Sidi Abdeljabbar

13. Spring Sprout Mushroom Lollipop Person HS 4a

Tifghalt

7m. The wide crack above the huge open-

Granite

book corner feels exposed right from the word go. If you're soloing, then you'd better not fall...

Aeron Buchanan and Katja Broadbent on Layback for the Win (VS 5a), a stiff test-piece at this grade.

White Tower Raven Crag White Shadow

Victorian Buttress

Point 1973

The next buttress to the right has some attractive-looking, longer lines, and represents the extent of current development. Most parties will want a rope for the climbs here, which definitely feel rather high to solo...

Profanisaurus Hidden Wall Tifghalt Lower

9. Layback for the Win VS 5a

Tifghalt Upper

12m. The tempting right-facing corner, just

left of the cave, succumbs to a confident layback. Photo this page

Crag V Crag W

The next two routes are on the short sidewall to the right...

Tarakatine

10. Left Crack Severe

Adrar Idekel

6m. The left-hand crack and arĂŞte.

11. Right Crack Severe

6m. Make use of both the right-hand cracks.

12. Victorian Cronies HS 4b

7m. Pleasant climbing up the crack to the left of the prominent off-width crack.

Photo page11313

337

Tifghalt – Firrst Ascents Tagmout Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

White Tower Raven Crag White Shadow Point 1973 Profanisaurus Hidden Wall Tifghalt Lower Tifghalt Upper Crag V Crag W Tarakatine Adrar Idekel

Tifghalt First Ascents 1991 Original Route. Les Brown & Trevor Jones.

1992 Opening Bid. Joe Brown & Claude Davies.

Brown and Davies had no record of the Original Route, and it was by chance that their climb followed a parallel line to the existing route.

Middle Ground. Joe Brown & Claude Davies.

The first pitch gave rise to 'some degree of stress' as Brown failed to reach a belay after 50 metres.

This resulted in both climbers moving together up some quite difficult ground. Eventually, Brown reached the off-width crack, half way up the route. After passing the requisite measurements to his belayer he hauled up a suitable rock in his helmet to place it the crack as protection for this crucial section.

February 1993 Old Friends. Joe Brown, Claude Davies, Les Brown, Trevor Jones & Pete Turnbull.

Climbed as one rope, consisting all of the 'original team' of Anti-Atlas pioneers, with Joe Brown leading all of the way. During the ascent one of the seconds (who wishes to remain anonymous!) dropped a cam, giving rise to a barrage of adverse comments from the leader.

Further such comments were once more forthcoming when it began to snow – an unusual event for which the team were not prepared.

The dropped cam was found 8 years later during the first ascent of Kestrel!

1994 Evasion. Les Brown, Pete Turnbull & R.Warner.

1995 Second Thoughts. Paul Ross & Les Brown.

Circle Seat. Claude Davies & Trevor Jones.

1996 Black Cracks. Joe Brown & Pete Turnbull.

Morning Crack. Paul Ross & Les Brown.

Afternoon Wall. Les Brown & Paul Ross.

White Ramp. Joe Brown & Claude Davies.

Trio. Les Brown, Joe Brown & Paul Ross.

Outside Left. Pete Turnbull & Trevor Jones.

340

1997 Red Wall. Derek Walker & Les Brown.

Adullam. Claude Davies & Pete Turnbull.

Freelander. Bill Freelands & Paul Ross.

1998 White Tower Original. Joe Brown, Les Brown & Derek Walker.

Walker recalls this route being so obvious from the road that he was "surprised that the team had not been there before". The first pitch was deemed to be "typically Joe", so that pitch went to him. Les got the steep slabs above, with Walker finishing the route to the summit. The group referred to the climb for many years as 'The Bonatti Pillar', but this name was vetoed by one

The original team of Anti-Atlas pioneers in Tafraout – Joe Brown, Pete Turnbull, Claude Davies, Trevor Jones and Les Brown.

Photo by Claude Davies

of the group at some point, simply becoming 'The White Tower' instead.

Many consider this to be one of the finest climbs in the range, put up by a formidable team who's names were synonymous with the very best of Anti-Atlas adventure climbing. It is fitting that Walker's recollections of this route were his final contribution to Tafraout climbing before he sadly passed away in January 2013.

Muezzin Call. Claude Davies & R.Salisbury.

Central Chimney. Joe Brown & Derek Walker.

Keswick Lad's Outing. Paul Ross & W.Freelands.

The Great Flake. Joe Brown, Les Brown, Derek Walker & Pete Turnbull.

Tifghalt – First Ascents March 1999 Elizur. Joe Brown, Claude Davies & Pete Turnbull.

Vulture. Les Brown & Pete Turnbull.

Highway. Les Brown & Roy Warner.

2000 White Pillar. Les Brown & Derek Walker.

Etam, The Great Escape. Joe Brown & Pete Turnbull.

2001 Direct Route (Lower Crag), The Black Groove. Les Brown & Derek Walker.

Kestrel. Les Brown, Derek Walker & Chris Bonington.

Space Walk. Joe Brown, Derek Walker & Chris Bonington.

Gibbethon. Joe Brown & Pete Turnbull.

January 2004 Sticky Arête. Tom Pitcairn & Andy Hedgecock.

November 2004 Barbary Toast. John Lyall & Jon Preston.

March 2005 Barbary Falcon. Les Brown & M.Howlett.

The Baron's Largesse. Chris Bonington & Mike Mortimer.

The Bonatti Pillar. Ben & Marion Wintringham.

October 2009 Colonel's Crack. Scott Malina-Derben & John Evans.

February 2010 Shoe Ladies. Ian Wilson, James Strongman & Tom Leppert.

October 2011 Imsimil Berati Lahn. Chris Bull & Will Benfold.

White Tower Direct (Slot Machine). Steve Broadbent & Cameron Hall.

Ciao Lucio. Giorgio Mallucci & Elisabetta Galli.

November 2011 The Face of the Cotswolds, Bumble Bee Pants. Charlie Boscoe & Peter Riley.

Tired Dog Crack, Throw Us a Bone. Peter Riley & Charlie Boscoe.

Tagmout Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt

A new route paradise... Joe Brown points out a line to Chris Bonington in the early days at Tifghalt.

Granite

Joe 'Morty' Smith near the top of the White Tower (HVS 5a) at Tifghalt.

White Tower

Photo by Claude Davies

Photo by Claude Davies

Raven Crag White Shadow Point 1973 Profanisaurus Hidden Wall Tifghalt Lower Tifghalt Upper Crag V Crag W Tarakatine Adrar Idekel

341

Selected Granite – Aguerd Valley Tagmout

to Tazka

Anergui

Map p344

5m

5m

YES

NO

Hitch

YES

YES

Call of Duty Napoleon’s Hat Aguerd Oudad

Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World

First Tor

Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim

N

to the Painted Rocks

Tizgut

Third Tor

Sidi Abdeljabbar

Rumpus

Tifghalt Granite

GRANITE

Aguerd Oudad to the Painted Rocks

Walk-ins: 2m - 5m Drive from Tafraout: About 10 minutes to most of the crags, or you can walk to them in a little over an hour from Tafraout.

Aguerd Road Aguerd Valley

1

5

3

2

Speciality: Wide cracks Area Map: See map on page 3

Painted Rocks Aday Road Tazka Road

A superb climbing area, with good granite in a picturesque setting, making an ideal spot for rest days and picnics. If you're only going to have one day on the granite then you could do a lot worse than this...

0m

Head south out of Tafraout towards the Painted Rocks. 2.4km from the roundabout in the centre of Tafraout is a turnoff into the village of Aguerd Oudad – follow this, passing through the square in the centre of the village. The road turns into a dirt-track and then passes through a gate at the southern end of the village, from where it continues along the valley towards the Painted Rocks.

This is a rough track, but is usually passable by 2WD vehicles except after heavy rain. Park considerately, somewhere in the desert...

The First Tor As soon as the track leaves the village of Aguerd Oudad, the First Tor is immediately visible on the left.

First Tor

Rumpus

352

500m

5m

YES

5m

NO

YES

Map p344

Hitch

YES

Selected Granite – Aguerd Valley Tagmout

2

Anergui

3

Igordan

1

Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

N

Lost World

1

Lion's Face

4

1. Brutus E1 5b

Oumsnat

CRACK

Aguchtim

TRAD

12m. The right-trending crack on the

Tizgut

southeast face of the First Tor is a full-on battle, complete with desperate jams and the odd crumbly crimp.

2. Claude Davies’ Anti-Atlas E1 5b

Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

CRACK

TRAD

10m. Superb climbing up the tempting crack

3 Aguerd Road

in the short north-facing wall.

3. Vajra E3 5c

CRACK

Aguerd Valley

TRAD

12m. The central ‘prong’ of the trident-like

Painted Rocks

cracks is a good escape from the sun.

4. Rumpus E4 5c

WIDE

Aday Road

TRAD

Tazka Road

12m.

The slanting off-width crack in the blocks at the top of the slab gives a tremendous full-body experience, and one of the best E4s in Tafraout. Photo page 355

4

Third Tor

353

Map p344

Selected Granite – Aguerd Valley Tagmout Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

The Yellow Circuit (Aguerd Oudad)

5m

5m

YES

NO

YES

Hitch

YES

30 problems (Font 3 to Font 5)

There's almost limitless potential for bouldering around Tafraout, including some superb high-grade problems. Unfortunately, finding the good rock can take some time and effort... but if you're after a relaxing evening's bouldering on good granite then this circuit might just fit the bill. The hardest problem is Font grade 5, and there are a number of really worthwhile problems around Font 4 that will certainly improve your granite slab technique! Look out for problems 1, 8 (super slab padding), 11 (highball wall), 13 (traverse), 23 (ridiculous long solo) and 30 (a high rock-over).

Lost World

28

Lion's Face

27

Oumsnat Aguchtim

30

26 29

Tizgut

25

Sidi Abdeljabbar 24

Tifghalt Granite

N S

4

Aguerd Road Aguerd Valley

23 4

3

Painted Rocks

2

1

Aday Road

1

3

2

5

22 6

Tazka Road

21 20

12

8 7

18 19

17 16

11 9

13

14

10

15

Third Tor 2m

4

23

1

2

1

2

3

12

5 8

11

354

13

5m

5m

YES

NO

YES

Hitch

YES

Map p344

Selected Granite – Aguerd Valley Tagmout Anergui Igordan

1

Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World Lion's Face

The Third Tor

Oumsnat

A superb little venue, with a couple of short routes and a pleasant easy bouldering circuit.

Follow the dirt-track south out of Aguerd Oudad for 1.2km, when this small tor comes into view on the left side. After heavy rain this track can become impassable without 4WD, but usually it’s possible to drive right up to within 50m of the climbing.

Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

With plenty of shade, a short approach, and lots of boulders to play on this is an excellent venue for families and picnics.

Aguerd Road

The first few routes are located on a short north-facing wall at the bottom left side of the tor.

1. Tiny Crack VS 5a

CRACK

Aguerd Valley Painted Rocks Aday Road

TRAD

6m. The fine crack at the left side of the wall

Tazka Road

is short and sweet.

2. Awkward Turtle HVS 5c

LOOSE

TRAD

8m. The central, left-slanting groove in the

short wall is far, far harder than it looks. Climb easily up to the ledge, then get stuck in to the upper crack with an increasing sense of regret. Some swimming up loose gravel may be required...

3. Crusty the Clown VS 4b

TRAD

8m. The groove up the right side of the short

wall is one of the easier climbs on the granite.

4. Auxiliary Nut Key HVS 5a

TRAD

10m.

Superbly photogenic, technical climbing up the exposed upper arête. Good protection is available on the right face, though placing it can be awkward.

Photo page11373

Johnny Dawes on Rumpus (E4 5c). Page 353

355

Map p344

Selected Granite – Aday Road Tagmout Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World Lion's Face

Yelmo Carpantónico & Cancho del Perro A superb slab, just to the south of Aday, offering some of the best and most popular sport routes in Tafraout. The slab faces southeast and gets lots of sunshine during the morning, when it can feel rather scorching.

Approach easily in about 10 minutes from roadside parking at the south end of the village.

Oumsnat

1. Condemor F5+

Aguchtim

The diagonal crack at the left side of the short wall.

Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

CRACK

2. Kie-13 F6c+

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Very nice climbing up the wall to the right of the diagonal crack.

3. Salan Pradery F7a

SLAB

SPORT

Tricky slab climbing on excellent rock.

Aguerd Road

4. Detrás del Chador F6b+

Aguerd Valley

Two pitches up the slab, starting just right of the palm tree and gradually easing towards the top.

Painted Rocks Aday Road Tazka Road

SLAB

5. La Pestañi me Enniqueló F6c+

MIXED

SPORT

A challenging little pitch up sandy crimps

6. Fender Stratocaster F6b+

SLAB

SPORT

The right-hand line is a very worthwhile climb on good crimps.

Photo this page

7. Kanif Chânez F5+

SLAB

MIXED

The longest route on the dome features both crack and slab climbing, and is quite run-out low down.

8. La Costra F5

SLAB

MIXED

The right side of the slab has been re-bolted and now provides very pleasant climbing.

James Kniffen on the popular slab of Fender Stratocaster (F6b+)

Photo by Jeremy Jones

364

5m

10m

YES

NO

YES

Hitch

YES

5m

10m

YES

NO

YES

Map p344

Hitch

YES

Selected Granite – Aday Road Tagmout

Yelmo Carpantónico

Anergui Igordan

AM

10m

Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World

8 5 1

3

6

Lion's Face

7

Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Aguerd Road

1

2

3

Aguerd Valley

4

Painted Rocks Aday Road Tazka Road

365

Map p344

Selected Granite – Tazka Road Tagmout Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World Lion's Face Oumsnat Aguchtim Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar Tifghalt Granite

Aguerd Road Aguerd Valley Painted Rocks Aday Road

5m

5m

YES

NO

Hitch

YES

YES

Tocho el Regalito A couple of tracks head southeast from the road just opposite the village of Tazka, leading to an area of huge boulders. Please approach with courtesy as this is private land and some access issues have been reported.

The first three routes are found on the east face of a large boulder above a clearing, right at the foot of the hillside. They are all well-bolted and stay in the shade during the afternoon.

1. La Prisa Mata F7b

4

SPORT

If you're going to get up this boulder then this is probably your best bet, though a reachy crux will deter most.

2. El Regalito F7c+

SPORT

The tempting hanging crack is beautiful line, but getting into it is going to require some considerable effort.

3. La Tranquilidad me Machaca F8b

Opposite the previous routes is an attractive blank slab, holding the following: 4. The Regalito Slab F7b+

BOLD

Good luck with this one. The steep slab has tiny crumbly holds and no protection whatsoever.

Eek!

SPORT

The attractive overhanging groove and scoops above represent the hardest climbing yet reported in Tafraout. There are two chipped holds to start (if you can call them holds).

Tazka Road

Tocho el Regalito AM

1

368

2

3

5m

5m

20m

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

YES

Map p344

Selected Granite – Tazka Road Tagmout Anergui Igordan Tamaloucht & Tagdicht

Lost World Lion's Face

3

Oumsnat

North Face SHADE

Aguchtim

20m

Tizgut Sidi Abdeljabbar

Tocho de Tazka

Tifghalt

This super little pinnacle is located on the top of the ridge above Tocho el Regalito. A vague trail heads up the hillside from the clearing at the foot of Tocho el Regalito, becoming scrambly near the top.

1. Fisura F6a

CRACK

TRAD

The unattractive crack is the easiest way to the top, but is hardly what you came all this way for...

Aguerd Road

East Face AM

Aguerd Valley

2

20m

Painted Rocks Aday Road

STEEP

2. El Balcón de Tazka F7b+

SPORT

Terrific climbing up the well-positioned steep arête. Superb!

Tocho de Tazka

! No access through houses

Granite

1

3. El Tocho F8a+/b

SPORT

Dani Andrada's masterpiece gives some incredible, steep and pumpy climbing up the shady north-facing wall.

Tocho el Regalito

369

Tazka Road

“We arrived at a pass with a breathtaking view down into the Ameln Valley. The south flanks of the Jebel were adorned with skirts of ochre-coloured rock which dropped down into oases. Green pillows of palmeries surrounded scattered, colourful villages and minarets.” - Les Brown, Rucksack Club Journal.

The definitive Tafraout guide, featuring: • Almost 2000 rock climbs, including trad routes from Easy

to E7, and sport climbs from F4 to F8b.

• Selected granite bouldering.

• Everything from 8m roadside routes to 800m alpine epics, across the Ameln Valley, Sidi M’Zal, Idaougnidif, Afantinzar, Samazar, Jebel Taskra, Tagzene, and Tagmout.

• Detailed maps and the most accurate photo-topos ever produced for the Anti-Atlas.

Oxford Alpine Club

by Steve Broadbent

TAFRAOUT Rock Climbing in Morocco's Anti-Atlas

VOLUME II - The North Side of Jebel el Kest and Jebel Taskra

Map p20

Sidi M'Zal – Crag NC

50m

35m

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

YES

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Na r

Afantinzar

de AM

Tagzene

50m

Jebel Taskra

Fylde Crag Babatangi Buttress Crag NA Crag NB

1

Twin Crags Crag NC Crag ND Lower Injan

2 3

Octet Crag

4

Tizi Gzaouine

5

6

Aktil Slabs

8

7 9

Douwalus Towers Tarikit Crag Boar Walls

10 wn Do

cli

m

b

30

Crag NC (Greek Buttress)

ro w s c en tr am p

Samazar

35m

50m

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

YES

Map p20

5) 40m (4b) Climb a groove, trending slightly

right, to a belay below the final steepening.

6) 30m (4b) Take the weakness in the wall and finish up left to a final rib.

3. Alpha HVS 5a

ADVENTURE

200m. The line of the first ascent gives an

excellent and sustained climb up the fine steep wall, featuring about 8 pitches of climbing.

The route starts by gaining and following a prominent rightward leaning corner before moving left into black grooves on the upper wall.

4. Sailing the Aegean E3 5c

180m. A superb, direct line up the front of

the buttress, providing a sustained and trying experience with fine situations. Start 20m left of Gamma, below a left-facing corner.

1) 40m (5b) Climb the corner and follow a right-facing groove above. Continue to a ledge below a bulge.

2) 60m (5c) A long, absorbing pitch... Move left around the bulge to gain the wall above, then follow this to another steep section. Overcome this via a short corner on the right, stepping left at the top to gain a crack. Belay on the good ledge above.

3) 30m (5b) Traverse right below the roof to enter an orange groove. This gives some technical climbing to a belay below a tree.

4) 50m (5b) Move right and climb a rib, then make exposed moves up left to gain easier ground. Scrambling remains to the summit.

5. Aphrodite E2 5b

205m. A superb companion route to Eros with tremendous, sustained and varied climbing. The route shares some ground with Gamma in its upper section. Start as for Eros.

1) 60m (5b) Start up the gangway and climb a few moves up the slab before breaking left to gain the fine crack in the wall left of the corner on Eros.

2) 30m (5b) Make a bold step onto the headwall just right of the bulge on Eros, then continue up rightwards into a small open groove on the right sight of the headwall. Pass a ledge and continue steeply to a good wide crack. Climb up to a ledge beneath a corner capped by a large roof.

3) 30m (5b) Go up the corner, moving left around the roof to gain an easier groove and

Sidi M'Zal – Crag NC shattered corner on the right. Climb this and step left past a bulge and continue through a weakness to gain a niche below a chimney/ corner.

4) 35m (5a) Climb the chimney to a tree on the left, then continue up the crack and slab above to a large ledge with blocks.

5) 50m (4b) Go up the rib on the right and finish up a wide groove and chimneys.

6. Eros E2 5b

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

220m. A superb and varied climb starting

up the right-facing corner just left of Gamma.

1) 50m (5b) Climb an easy gangway up right to a ledge. Trend right up a slab to the corner and follow it to a big ledge. Belay three metres right of the corner taken by Linea D’Ombra.

2) 35m (5b) Pull into an orange niche three metres right of the corner then undercut right around the bulge. Climb the right edge of a black streak then step left to a stance.

3) 30m (5b) Go up the rib on the left then a left-trending groove to enter a left-slanting slot. Squirm up this to a good stance below a black crack.

4) 45m (5a) The rib on the left leads to a deep chimney. Follow this to a ledge.

5) 60m (4b) Easier climbing to the right of a dark gully.

Fylde Crag Babatangi Buttress Crag NA Crag NB Twin Crags Crag NC Crag ND Lower Injan Octet Crag Tizi Gzaouine

7. Gamma HVS 5a

200m. A big classic climb up the grooves

right of Alpha Route, from one of the strong teams of the early days of Anti-Atlas exploration.

1) 45m (5a) A superb steep corner crack provides a memorable introduction to the route. An optional stance is possible at 35m.

2) 15m (-) Easy climbing to below a steep black groove.

3) 15m (4c) The groove is difficult to start, but followed directly to a belay.

4) 15m (4b) Go around the arête on the left then up slabs to another belay.

5) 25m (4b) Step left once more to climb steep but rather more broken rock.

6) 30m (4c) Go right up a steep finger crack through orange rock, past a bush and into an easier gully.

7) 50m (-) Continue up the easy gully to the top.

31

Aktil Slabs Douwalus Towers Tarikit Crag Boar Walls

Map p20

Sidi M'Zal – Crag ND

35m

YES

1hr

NO

NO

Hitch

YES

Sidi M'Zal

Crag ND Arch Wall

Idaougnidif Afantinzar

AM

60m

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

5 Fylde Crag

1

Babatangi Buttress

6

2

Crag NA Crag NB Twin Crags

7

Crag NC

3

4

Crag ND Lower Injan Octet Crag Tizi Gzaouine Aktil Slabs Douwalus Towers Tarikit Crag Boar Walls

3) 35m (4a) Climb a groove, with a bold upper section to a belay with big blocks beneath a smooth wall.

4) 10m (-) Move the belay 10m left.

5) 60m (4b) Climb the groove on the left, step over a pinnacle and continue up the left side of a pillar.

6) 15m (4a) A bold little finish leads to easier ground.

4. The Great Corner E1+ 5b+

WIDE

200m. The large corner feature to the left of

the arch is an infamous Tafraout classic, and one of many desperate offerings from Les Brown and Derek Walker in the 1990s. Like so many others, it has repulsed more than its fair share of aspirants, not helped by being wrongly named and wrongly graded in at least two previous guidebooks. Upgraded to E1 here, and still a tough proposition at that, featuring steep, sustained and ridiculous widecrack climbing that never seems to end.

1) The groove is entered awkwardly, one way or another, past a very prickly bush.

34

2) Direct up the off-width crack.

3) Climb the wall to the right of the crack.

4) Diagonally left to a stance above the corner.

5) Finish up the slabs above.

Photo page 32 STEEP

5. Bowline E2 5b

WIDE

WIDE

200m. The first attempt at the arch was

forced left after two pitches, but still provides an excellent route with fine exposed climbing.

Follow the steep, strenuous corner for two emotional pitches (large cams required) until it is possible to break left up a steep grey wall.

Climb grooves in the upper wall for three airy pitches to the top. Superb!

STEEP

6. Saif Din E3 6a

WIDE

LOOSE

200m. A staggering climb following the

magnificent corner in its entirety. Parties should be prepared to encounter desperate wide cracks, difficult climbing with lots of exposure, and a fair helping of rotten rock...

35m

1hr

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

YES

Map p20

Sidi M'Zal – Crag ND Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Fylde Crag Babatangi Buttress

9

Crag NA

8

Crag NB Twin Crags Crag NC Crag ND Lower Injan Octet Crag

7. Mashallah E2 5b

2) 30m (5a) Go up and right over large

starting 50m right of Saif Din at a large triangular block resting on the face. Climb up left for 25m, then go diagonally left to a horizontal fault. Traverse back right here before climbing diagonally up right to another fault, reaching a tree below a pinnacle. Go easily up behind this to the top.

detached blocks at the foot of a narrow pillar to the right of a short corner. Climb the pillar on dubious rock to a belay in a friable yellow crack.

3) 20m (5a) Climb up and right to a large tree.

Belay below the right wall of the corner above.

4) 40m (5a) Go up the wall above the belay to reach easier ground then scrambling to the top.

The following route has been climbed at the right side of the wall, though there is some doubt about the exact line.

The following climb has been reported on the north side of the Arch Wall, though the exact line has not been located.

8. Fatal Attraction E1 5a

9. U Bend HVS 5a

220m. The wall to the right of the Arch,

STEEP

UNCHECKED

LOOSE

120m. At the far right side of the crag is a

set of twin pillars separated by a large loose overhang. This route starts at the right side of the foot of the left-hand pillar. Difficulties are short but poorly protected, and the route involves a lot of loose rock.

1) 30m (4b) Trend diagonally left to reach a large crack. From here go up and right to a rock-covered ledge.

UNCHECKED

150m. Climbs a right-slanting crack to below a large overhang. From here it traverses horizontally right for 15m to a shallow fault line in a slab, which is followed to a large ledge. The route finishes up an overhanging corner above the ledge, then an easier gully to the left.

35

Tizi Gzaouine Aktil Slabs Douwalus Towers Tarikit Crag Boar Walls

Sidi M'Zal – First Ascents Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Fylde Crag Babatangi Buttress Crag NA Crag NB Twin Crags Crag NC Crag ND Lower Injan Octet Crag Tizi Gzaouine Aktil Slabs Douwalus Towers Tarikit Crag Boar Walls

April 1993 Slab Right. Joe Brown & Claude Davies This was the first route recorded on the north side of the massif, two years after the 'original team' of pioneers began exploring the quartzite of Jebel el Kest.

Slab Left. Les Brown & Pete Turnbull April 1997 Black Wall. Les Brown & Derek Walker March 1999 Bowline, Great Corner. Les Brown and Derek Walker Two magnificent climbs. Bowline was the first attempt at Sidi's stunning Great Arch, but was forced left at half height by wide cracks and friable rock. The first ascent of the true line up the arch came seven years later with Walker, Fotheringham, and Wintringham's ascent of Saif Din in 2006.

Considerable confusion surrounded these routes after the original guidebook to the area reported Great Corner to be the start of Saif Din, which was contrary to Brown's original description. A photo in a Rucksack Club journal also showed Great Corner to be the line to the left of Saif Din. Both routes were given 5b by Brown and Walker, and both were infamously undergraded at E1 5b and HVS 5a in more recent years. A solid E2 5b has been suggested for both corners!

March 2000 Alpha. Derek Walker & Les Brown The first route on Crag NC at Sidi M'Zal. By now the original alphabetic naming convention was in full swing. Beta and Gamma were soon to follow!

March 2001 Tree Chimney, Crescendo. Les Brown, Chris Bonington & Derek Walker March 2002 Beta, Grey Wall. Chris Bonington, Les Brown & Derek Walker March 2003 Gamma. Derek Walker & Chris Bonington October 2004 Braheim’s Slab. Ron Kenyon, Braheim & Geoff Somers Braheim lived in the small village of Injaren, below the Sidi M'Zal cliffs. He wandered up to the crag one day to find Kenyon and Somers out climbing – they lent him a pair of rock shoes and he followed them up the climb.

Welcome Wall. Ron Kenyon & Geoff Somers 58

Geoff Somers with Braheim on Braheim's Slab (VS 4c) on the lower Arch Wall. Page 36

Photo by Ron Kenyon

Détenté. Chris King & Barry Clarke Ant’s Highway / Sharp Edge. Chris King, Geoff Somers & Ron Kenyon March 2005 U Bend. Mike Howlett & Les Brown Mashallah. Ben Wintringham & Jim Fotheringham Tocata y Fuger. F Calle & G.Cuevas March 2006 Saif Din. Jim Fotheringham, Ben Wintringham & Derek Walker The magnificent, awe-inspiring arch above Sidi M'Zal was probably the most striking unclimbed piece of rock in the Anti-Atlas. Several previous attempts had failed... as have many subsequent ones!

Holiday Route. Ross & Howe March 2007 The Ridge. Claude Davies & Pete Turnbull April 2007 North Tower Original. Steve & Katja Broadbent The pair had decided upon a rest day, mid-way through their trip, and chose to investigate the poor tracks above Tizi Gzaouine. After exploring the Aktil slabs, they hiked up to the escarpment above, not actually intending to climb anything. The lure of an unclimbed tower, however, was too much...

January 2009 Fatal Attraction. San Ponsford & Shaun Nicholson March 2009 Thar She Blows, Broadbent Shmoadbent. Adam Bradley

Sidi M'Zal – First Ascents & Graham Lee October 2009 The Lion Tamer, Sword Swallower, Cirque du Soleil. Chris Bull, Paul Mainwood & Alison Parker High Wire, Hall of Mirrors, Clown Crack. Steve Broadbent & Rachel Mellor Liquid Sunshine. Steve Broadbent, Will Benfold & Cameron Hall December 2009 Action Bop, Aktil Groove / Direct, Christmas Cracks, Noodweer, Aktil Rib, Aktil Wall, Rapunzel's Tower, Burka Boy, The Juggler, Geology Corner, Bakalakadaka, Ivory Pink, Hammered with Mohammed, Cricket Corner, Formir, Apex. Steve Broadbent (solo) February 2010 The Aktil Undercut, Barry Sally, Immim, Izbeep, Shadow Traverse. Steve Broadbent (solo) Rapunzel's Back Stairs, My Mates Brought me all the way to Morocco and all I got was this Lousy Mod. Jamie & Clare Wakeham Flashpump, Jonas, Chasing Rainbows, Argan Gully, Rouble,Prana, Crescent Climb. Steve & Katja Broadbent Tin Foil Teeth, Tinsel Toes, Festival Fingers. Steve & Katja Broadbent February 2010 saw unprecedented floods sweeping through Tafraoute, destroying houses and blocking roads. Both the Afantinzar and Samazar roads were impassable, and all routes in and out of Tafraout were cut off for three days. With almost all of the high crags shrouded in cloud, these routes in the Tizi Gzaouine Gorge were climbed in the rain... and in slight desperation!

March 2010 Squeeler. Dan Donovan (solo) Porque Torque, Pigging in the Rigging. Paul Donnithorne & Pete Johnson Deliverance, Piggy’s Crack, Tusker, Tenderloin. Neil Adams, Dan Donovan & Paul Donnithorne Ruffing Finesse. Graham Little & Derek Walker Grand Slam, Unbalanced Hand, Dark Slab Arete. Graham Little & Chris Bonington Welcome Slab, Introductory Wall. Claude Davies & Derek Walker Sez Lez. Martin Bennett & Dave Wood The pair were tipped off about this new crag by Les Brown, describing Davies' and Walker's previous ascents of Welcome Slab and Introductory Wall.

February 2011 Watersports, Wall Street. Steve Broadbent & Matt Mellor

March 2011 Cold Turkey. Alan Blackburn & Dave Wood No Country for Old Men. Les Brown & Martin Bennett Zigzagger. S Brown & C.Clarke Everest Reunion. Mike Rhodes & Chris Bonington Hidden Gem. Ben & Marion Wintringham Gudbuy T’gine. Martin Bennett & Alan Blackburn Date Line. Les Brown & Dave Wood Woody Sez. Dave Wood, Martin Bennett & Alan Blackburn April 2011 Arch Enemy, Archangel. Geoff Hornby & Paul Seabrook Calumet, Cherokee, Apache, Tomahawk. Tom Codrington & Emily Atkinson October 2011 Rachid Ridge. Alberto Rampini & Silvia Mazzani October 2011 Dolomismo Krak. A Fairtlough & S.Paoros November 2011 Samson & Delilah. Paul Donnithorne & Pete Johnson La Linea d’Ombra. Alberto Rampini & Silvia Mazzani March 2012 Route Toot. Ali Welsh & Martin Bennett Sez Who? Dave Wood & Hamish Legge Babatangi, Songs of Love. Giorgio Mallucci & Elisabetta Galli April 2012 The Paddy. Geoff Hornby & Paul Seabrook Rock the Kasbah, Amazement Gland, The Sheet that Separates the People from the Blanket. T Plaice & C.Booth Rock the Kasbah has been referred to as 'Kasbah Rock' in previous guidebooks.

Beantin, “Les Bains”, White Lightning Flake. L & J Hume Head Honcho. Paul Donnithorne & Dan Donovan Sailing the Aegean, Chukka. Paul Donnithorne & Dan Donovan Zorba. Emma Alsford & Don Sargeant November 2012 Eros, Aphrodite. Paul Donnithorne & Emma Alsford Troy Boys. Paul Donnithorne, Pete Johnson & Mike Mortimer New Morning Light, Desperate Donkeys. Alberto Rampini & Silvia Mazzani March 2013 One Pitch Wonder. Graham Little, Jim Lowther & Mike Rhodes

59

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Fylde Crag Babatangi Buttress Crag NA Crag NB Twin Crags Crag NC Crag ND Lower Injan Octet Crag Tizi Gzaouine Aktil Slabs Douwalus Towers Tarikit Crag Boar Walls

Map p60

Idaougnidif – Amzkhssan Wall Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif

1hr

2m

YES

NO

YES

Hitch

NO

Amzkhssan Wall 2m

Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

7 Roadside Crag

5

Prickly Pear Lekst Tower

1

2

3

6

4

Idaougnidif – Afantinzar Road

Amzkhssan

Amzkhssan Wall Deep Well Pinnacles Col Crags CRAGGING

Azumer Crag All Relative Gorge Tassila Gorge Buzzard Crag Lower Buzzard Crystal Walls Adrar Iffran Arrow Rock Twin Towers Adrar Asmit Adrar Aiyur Adrar Umlil Brussels Cliff Brokeback Mountain

Amzkhssan Wall

Approach: 2 minutes Aspect: South Catches all the sun there is going, and can get very hot in the afternoon.

25 Speciality: Easy multi-pitch climbs right by the roadside.

Area Map: Page XX

This deceptively large roadside crag of compact, low-angled quartzite lies on the north side of the road above the village of Amzkhssan. It is home to a handful of worthwhile easy climbs on good rock, and although some of them are disconcertingly bold, big holds usually abound and the routes are not particularly committing.

There is parking as the road leaves the village, from where the crag is reached in a matter of minutes through the trees. Identifying lines can be difficult, and many parties find themselves going 'off-route' here. Fortunately the wall can be climbed pretty much anywhere, and you're unlikely to get into too many unexpected difficulties.

From the top of the crag continue down the far side to gain a good path heading back left (west). This path swings round the western end of the crag and returns to the road near to the start of the routes. It is also possible to descend the east side of the crag.

66

1. Zig Zag HS 4b

BOLD

130m. Starts up a right-slanting ramp-line

towards the left side of the wall.

1) 50m Easy climbing up the ramp.

2) 40m Go left up a crack then straight up to the right of an overhanging block.

3) 40m Move right to avoid the steep pale wall, then climb straight up to capping overlaps.

2. Amzkhssan Wall Severe

BOLD

120m. Climbs the centre of the wall directly

from the lowest point. Good positive holds make up for a complete lack of protection.

1) 35m Easy climbing to a good belay on the right-slanting ledge system.

2) 30m Climb a weakness in the steeper left wall, then step right to a belay.

3) 20m Steep climbing (crux) leftwards from the belay, then move right onto a ledge.

4) 35m Go straight up past the left side of the final overlap, with difficult moves to finish.

3. Amzkhssan Rib V.Diff

130m. A highly-recommended climb up the

rib immediately right of a right-slanting ramp/ gully, following one of the few natural lines on this otherwise featureless wall. The difficult section is thankfully well-protected, making this route a good introduction to the region.

1hr

30m

YES

NO

YES

Hitch

NO

Map p60

Idaougnidif – Amzkhssan Wall

Start from the lowest point of the crag, nearest to the road. After a tricky start just right of the gully the rib is climbed with ease (numerous belay possibilities along the way). A final 40m pitch through steep ground at the top of the route provides the highlight of a very enjoyable climb.

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar

4. Pinnacle Slab Difficult

120m. The slabs to the right of Amzkhssan Rib can

be climbed pretty much anywhere, and provide a pleasant low-grade ascent on immaculate rock. The line described here starts up slabby ground about 10m right of Amzkhssan Rib and goes straight up towards a rectangular black overhang with a crack through its centre, high on the wall. Turn the overhang on the right and move up to a pinnacle beneath a small overlap. Step off the pinnacle to surmount the overlap and continue straight up to the top of the crag.

Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Roadside Crag Prickly Pear Lekst Tower Amzkhssan Wall Deep Well Pinnacles

6. Greem Difficult

120m. This route climbs a vague black buttress

halfway between Pinnacle Slab and the Amzkhssan Simul-Solo. On the approach the trail is squeezed up against the crag – start here at a cairn by the lowest rocks. Climb easily up the front of the vague buttress, generally trneding rightwards.

6. The Amzkhssan Simul-Solo Diff

120m. Consistently interesting easy climbing up the right side of the crag. There is an area of vegetation at half-height with a short corner above it, just right of a lone tree near the top of the wall.

Climb up to the right side of the vegetated area, then head straight up to a fine finish up the corner.

7. Logan Lovin' Very Difficult

120m. This pleasant climb follows the rib to the

right of a vegetated gully high on the face. Start beneath a pale patch of rock under steep black rock, immediately left of an orange overhang. Go up some difficult black rock left of the overhang to an oasis.

Move up right, then head back left to finish up the fine steep rib, or more easily on the right. Photo this page

Col Crags Azumer Crag All Relative Gorge Tassila Gorge Buzzard Crag Lower Buzzard Crystal Walls Adrar Iffran Arrow Rock Twin Towers Adrar Asmit Adrar Aiyur Adrar Umlil Brussels Cliff Brokeback Mountain

Will Benfold, solo on Logan Lovin' (Very Difficult) on the surprisingly large Amzkhssan Wall.

67

Map p60

Idaougnidif – Azumer Crag

10m

1:10

NO

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Azumer Crag

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif

SHADE

10m

Afantinzar

Samazar

6

Tagzene Jebel Taskra

9

5

10 11

Roadside Crag Prickly Pear Lekst Tower

7

8 2

Amzkhssan Wall Deep Well Pinnacles

1

3

4

Col Crags Azumer Crag CRAGGING

All Relative Gorge Tassila Gorge Buzzard Crag

Twin Towers Adrar Asmit Adrar Aiyur Adrar Umlil Brussels Cliff Brokeback Mountain

25

Speciality: Lower grade north-facing routes.

Area Map: Page XX

Crystal Walls

Arrow Rock

Approach: 5 minutes Aspect: North facing Lots of shade, at fairly high altitude, giving pleasant cool climbing.

6

Lower Buzzard

Adrar Iffran

Azumer Crag

Much of the north-facing rock around Jebel el Kest tends to produce routes that are either in the higher grades, or feature a large amount of moss. Azumer Crag, on the other hand, offers some very friendly climbs that come into their own during periods of warmer weather.

The crag is not shown on the area map on page XX, but is reached by turning right at the 3-way junction on the col between Idaougnidif and Afantinzar (beneath Col Crags). Follow the road as it swings to the right, then back left, crossing a plateau until the crag comes into view on the left (about 4km from the col).

There is a concrete sign (marked Azumer) facing the other way at this point.

The first route climbs a pinnacle to the left of the main section of the crag.

72

2. Raz's Rocket Severe

20m. The pinnacle gives a fun little climb.

Start up the face nearest to the cliff, spiralling to the top via the easiest line.

The following routes are all on a low buttress that sits in front of the main section of the crag.

1. Azumer Groove VS 4b

25m. Good climbing up the shallow groove

from the lowest point of the crag, though sometimes mossy in places.

2. Zoomer Severe

20m. The pleasant groove just left of the arch.

3. Razzamattazz HS 4a

20m. A fun route, taking the chimney up the left side of the arch and emerging through a hole at the top.

4. Polo Severe

20m. Climb the rib bounding the right side

of the arch, then move up left to the obvious hole. Climb up through this to emerge through the right hand ‘hole’ at the top of the cliff, or traverse left to finish as for the previous route.

1:10

10m

NO

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p60

Idaougnidif – Azumer Crag

Caroline Culwick on Event Horizon (HVS) on Adrar Umlil. Page 120

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif

The main wall of the crag is somewhat taller, and holds the following routes. They are described from left to right.

Afantinzar

5. Malcolm X E1 5b

Samazar

30m. Start up a crack to gain an inverted V overhang,

Tagzene

surmounting this to cracks in the upper wall.

Jebel Taskra

6. Be Prepared VS 4c

30m. Climb the excellent arête, stepping right at the

Roadside Crag

top onto a ramp. Climb the wall above to finish up the left arête.

Prickly Pear

7. Still Life HS 4b

Lekst Tower

40m. A right-slanting line up the slabby wall 50m left of Razzle Dazzle.

Amzkhssan Wall

8. Chimney Sweep VS 4c

Deep Well Pinnacles

50m. The undercut arête left of Razzle Dazzle, starting

Col Crags

in the big chimney. Climb up the slab or bridge up until it is possible to move right onto the arête. Follow this to a chimney, and finish up the wall beyond.

Azumer Crag All Relative Gorge

9. Razzle Dazzle VS 4c

Tassila Gorge

50m. Some fine climbing with a bold top section. Ten

metres left of Moroccan Virgin is an obvious groove which turns into a right-trending ramp. Climb the groove for 5m then go straight up over the overhang, with the help of a sidepull on the left (crux). Go up rightwards to a square overhang, moving up left here onto the fine buttress above. Pass an overlap at its left side, then move up right onto the excellent upper wall.

Buzzard Crag Lower Buzzard Crystal Walls Adrar Iffran Arrow Rock

10. Moroccan Virgin HS 4a

Twin Towers

45m. Fine climbing up the middle of the clean buttress

to the right of the mossy groove. Gain a ledge system, then take the upper wall first on the right, then the left, to finish up a superb crack.

Adrar Asmit Adrar Aiyur

11. Ra Ra Rasputin VS 4b

Adrar Umlil

40m. The superb wall up behind the right side of the

Brussels Cliff

lower buttress. Climb the centre of the face passing left of a prominent block at 20m. Finish straight up the centre of the tower above.

Brokeback Mountain

73

Idaougnidif – Amzkhssan Overview Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Roadside Crag Prickly Pear Lekst Tower Amzkhssan Wall Deep Well Pinnacles Col Crags Azumer Crag All Relative Gorge Tassila Gorge Buzzard Crag

The Amzkhssan Summits The magnificent summits and crags on the south side of the valley above Amzkhssan are home to some of the finest multi-pitch routes in the region, and have become a justifiably popular destination in recent years. These high crags offer first-class routes throughout the grade range, from long mountain classics to Anti-Atlas test-pieces, all in a wonderful mountain setting.

Most of the crags are accessed via a very pleasant approach walk of 30 - 60 minutes through some stunning scenery, helping to give routes here a somewhat remote and alpine feel to them, with unparalleled mountain views.

Indeed, on a clear day it is possible to see all the way to Jebel Toubkal, the highest summit in Morocco, over 200km away.

Reaching altitudes of almost 2000m above sea level, the Amzkhssan summits are a good choice during spells of hot weather, when they often provide an escape from the heat without the moss that is often a feature of other cooler venues. During poor weather however, these crags can be rather cold, windy, and are sometimes shrouded in cloud.

A poor un-surfaced track leaves the Afantinzar Road just after the first set of hairpins above Amzkhssan, at a blind junction signposted to

Lower Buzzard

Tassila and Agrd-Imoul. This track descends to an attractive waterfall (the Cascade d’Iffni) before climbing back up to a collection of large houses beneath low crags. This is Tassila village, and paths leave this point for Adrar Iffran, Arrow Rock, Adrar Asmit, and Adrar Umlil.

Above Tassila the rough track continues to the ancient village of Agrd Imoul – the access to Buzzard Crag and the north face of Adrar Iffran.

Parking is possible in both villages. However, the (very limited) space in Tassila is on private land, and is rather intrusive on the privacy of the local population. On top of this, the quality of the track is rather variable, particularly between Tassila and Agrd Imoul, and following bad weather it is frequently impassable.

Therefore, in order to maintain good relations with residents, not to mention hire-car companies, climbers are advised to park at the waterfall, from where it is only a 10 minute walk up to the village.

Adrar Iffran page XX

Crystal Walls Adrar Iffran over col to Buzzard Crags and Crystal Walls

Arrow Rock Twin Towers Adrar Asmit

Agrd Imoul

Adrar Aiyur Adrar Umlil

Tassila

Brussels Cliff Brokeback Mountain

76

Brokeback Mountain page XX

Arrow Rock page XX

NO

5m

1hr

MULTI PITCH

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p60

1. The Enchanted Gorge E2 5b

Tassila Gorge

Approach: 5 / 30 minutes Aspect: n/a A deep, dark, mysterious cavernous gorge...

6

25

Speciality: Extreme gill scrambling!

Area Map: Page XX

Behind the attractive Cascade d'Iffni lies a narrow cleft, almost impossible to view from any angle until you've fallen into it. This is the Tassila Gorge, home to one of the most ridiculous outings Tafraout has to offer, and an absolute 'must' for aficionados of extreme gill scrambling.

The top of the gorge can be accessed via a surprisingly hidden entrance, reached along the initial part of the Adrar Umlil path from Tassila village.

! Beware of flash floods in the gorge!

Umlil Tower 1 Brussels Cliff

page XX

Idaougnidif – Tassila Gorge

Adrar Aiyur

CARE!

300m. The narrow gorge above Cascade

d’Iffni is an esoteric adventure that must surely be the region’s hardest recorded ‘gill scramble’. Most of the climbing is about 4c, but the crux exit is un-protectable 5b climbing in a committed situation. The adventure should only be undertaken in periods of drought, when the waterfall is dry. Park at the waterfall and walk up terraces to the left, passing a house then contouring rightwards to gain the gorge. Walk, scramble and climb up the gorge until a final 5b passage gains daylight above. Escape routes are possible lower down.

2. Flash Flood E4 6b

GEAR

CARE!

40m. A superb, isolated test-piece following

water-sculpted features on the west wall at the top of the gorge, featuring some very hard footless thuggery. Approach via a 10m abseil, from where the route is at the far side of the boulder-bowl. Climb cracks up left to reach a good handrail, then make a steep pull up onto it. Step left around a small corner and launch leftwards along another handrail to a sculpted scoop. Go up this to gain easier ground.

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Roadside Crag Prickly Pear Lekst Tower Amzkhssan Wall Deep Well Pinnacles Col Crags Azumer Crag All Relative Gorge Tassila Gorge

page XX

Buzzard Crag

page XX

Lower Buzzard Crystal Walls

Gully up to Adrar Umlil

Adrar Iffran Arrow Rock

Tassila Gorge page XX

Twin Towers Adrar Asmit

Hidden entrance to Tassila Gorge

Adrar Aiyur Adrar Umlil Brussels Cliff Brokeback Mountain

77

Idaougnidif – Adrar Iffran Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Roadside Crag Prickly Pear Lekst Tower Amzkhssan Wall Deep Well Pinnacles Col Crags Azumer Crag All Relative Gorge Tassila Gorge Buzzard Crag Lower Buzzard Crystal Walls Adrar Iffran

The Southwest Face

Map p60

45m

1hr

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

4) 20m (4a) Climb left onto the arête and gain

To the right of the Notch the face swings round towards a small col between Adrar Iffran and Arrow Rock. This superb, sun-drenched wall is home to some of the finest climbs on the mountain, featuring exposed climbing on generally sound rock. There is a small pillar at the base of the face, and to the right of this a low white ledge from where Goldrush begins.

a narrow ledge that traverses left across the face. Follow this for 7m to a groove, then work back up and right to a stance with vegetation.

5) 30m (4a) Climb the crack / groove to a large bay, and exit left up some worrying tottering blocks to what appears to be the end of the climb.

6) 5m (-) Move right and finish up the crack in the short wall.

Descent from this face is as for the North Face (see page XX).

3. Guillotine Direct VS 4c

1. Baby Pillar Very Difficult

25m. The crack / groove up the front of the small pillar is a straightforward pitch.

2. West Face Indirect VS 4c

125m. A devious route that gains and climbs

the attractive clean wall above the overhangs, with some excellent face climbing and intricate route-finding. Start from the left end of a pale rock ledge at the right side of the west face.

1) 30m (-) Climb up a straightforward gully, exiting left to ledges.

2) 30m (4c) Move up to a difficult move to gain the excellent corner crack. Follow this for 6m then step left onto the white face, which provides superb climbing to a small overhang. Go left beneath this into a vegetated bay.

3) 10m (-) Walk left across the vegetated bay to belay near the arête.

105m. A fine, varied, and sustained climb up

the striking central grooves.

1) 30m (-) A straightforward gully leads to large ledges as for West Face Indirect.

2) 35m (4c) Go straight up the corner to a steepening , where an excellent undercut layback traverse leads out to the right. Regain the corner above this and follow it to a narrow rock ledge.

3) 40m (4c) Continue up the corner-crack with increasing difficulty to a sequence of bold moves beneath the capping overhang (the Guillotine). This is avoided by a hand-traverse left as for Goldrush.

A variation on this route, Ruby Groove (VS 4c), starts up the left side of the initial tower to join Guillotine Direct at the

Arrow Rock Twin Towers Adrar Asmit Adrar Aiyur

2

Adrar Umlil Brussels Cliff Brokeback Mountain

7 6

a

3

45m Overview Page XX

4

88

Adrar Iffran SW Face

5

1hr

45m

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p60

Idaougnidif – Adrar Iffran Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Roadside Crag Prickly Pear

Steve Broadbent on the first ascent of Adrar Iffran via Goldrush (HVS 5a) on the West Face.

This page. Photo by Katja Broadbent

first belay. A direct finish through the capping overhang has also been recorded.

4. Pinky and Perky HVS 5a

A good climb, taking an improbable line

through the huge overhangs. Start 2m right of Guillotine Direct.

1) 55m (4c) Climb shallow grooves in the wall right of the corner to a stance on the slabs.

2) 40m (4c) Go easily up and right to the stepped crack through the first overhang.

Climb this before a traverse right leads to a belay beneath the upper overhang.

3) 35m (5a) Traverse horizontally right, then cross a bold white wall to gain a final rib.

5. Goldrush HVS 5a

GEAR

115m. A superb and popular climb with great

variety, starting up the vague rib between the west and southwest faces and finishing through steep ground left of the upper overhangs. Some questionable rock requires a careful approach.

1) 20m (-) Enjoyable easy climbing up the front of the buttress to a good ledge.

2) 15m (4b) The wide crack above the ledge has a couple of tricky moves. Continue rightwards until a short traverse back left gains a small rock ledge.

3) 30m (4a) Go straight up steep ground on excellent jugs until the angle eases to a large ledge beneath the upper overhangs.

4) 25m (5a) Climb a weakness in the steepening, heading for the left side of the roofs. Once over the steep section step left to a very poor stance.

5) 25m (4c) Follow the excellent rib until forced left into the corner, then hand-traverse left under the final overhanging block.

Lekst Tower Amzkhssan Wall Deep Well Pinnacles Col Crags Azumer Crag All Relative Gorge Tassila Gorge

6. Curious HVS 5a

105m. The direct start to Catastrophe and the

Cure is another worthwhile climb.

1) 50m (5a) Climb up the crack before moving right onto a wall. Follow this to a ledge.

2) 55m (-) Upwards through very steep but easy ground.

7. Catastrophe and the Cure VS 4c

125m. The big crack to the left of the huge

cave is easier than appearances suggest, and leads to easier ground in between the overhangs.

1) 35m (4c) Climb the crack to a small ledge beneath the overhangs.

2) 55m (4b) Traverse left under the overlap to a bold finish up steep blocks left of the vegetated corner.

8. Eye Brow ArĂŞte Very Difficult

Buzzard Crag Lower Buzzard Crystal Walls Adrar Iffran Arrow Rock Twin Towers Adrar Asmit Adrar Aiyur Adrar Umlil Brussels Cliff Brokeback Mountain

70m. The right-hand ridge, starting from the col between Iffran and Arrow Rock.

Photo above and page 125

89

Map p60

Idaougnidif – Adrar Asmit

Idaougnidif

below, but catches the afternoon sun and is home to some tremendous easy climbs on immaculate rock.

Afantinzar

3. West Side Story Severe

Sidi M'Zal

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Roadside Crag Prickly Pear Lekst Tower Amzkhssan Wall Deep Well Pinnacles Col Crags Azumer Crag All Relative Gorge Tassila Gorge Buzzard Crag Lower Buzzard

140m. A very agreeable climb up the vague rib between the north and northwest faces, with continual exposure and a challenging crux. The route starts up a smooth rib just to the left of the left-hand of two low trees.

1) 45m (-) Climb the rib easily to a tree behind a large pinnacle (possible belay on a ledge at 30m).

2) 35m (4a) Step up onto the wall behind the tree and make a rising leftwards traverse to a small tree in a niche beneath a vegetated groove.

3) 50m (-) Step left onto the fine rib and follow it to the top of the crag with some superb positions.

1hr

1hr

NO

YES

NO

climbing is consistent and highly satisfying, and the route is likely to become a classic of the range.

1) 30m (-) Start as for West Side Story, gaining the sloping ledge with prominent tree. Climb the wall to the right to gain a detached block above the tree, then continue to a belay under a vague crack.

2) 35m (4c) Climb straight up to a red pillar and make an overhanging move to a belay on its top.

3) 25m (4a) Climb the orange wall on the right to the top of a small tower (as for Culture Shock).

4) 25m (4a) The steep headwall is an intimidating prospect, but has good holds and leads to a very exposed belay on a small pulpit.

5) 40m (-) Move up right to join the upper section of Wild Country above the Black

4. The Shepherd’s Song / Pastorale HS 4c 6

150m. Pastorale follows a direct and at times unlikely line up the superb northwest face, straightening out three of the original routes and providing a tremendous low-grade outing in a wonderful remote setting. The

Black Groove Orange Wall

Crystal Walls Adrar Iffran Arrow Rock

Orange Tower

Twin Towers Adrar Asmit Adrar Aiyur

6

Adrar Umlil Brussels Cliff

7

Brokeback Mountain

4 5 3

96

Hitch

NO

Adrar Asmit NW Face PM

60m

Overview Page XX

1hr

1hr

NO

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p60

Groove, with a possible belay as for that route if required.

5. Central Slabs Severe

145m. A pleasant, low-commitment route

featuring lots of easy climbing and an avoidable crux right at the top, allowing the route to be ascended at Very Difficult standard.

1) As for Culture Shock 2) 30m Climb slabby ground left of the steep buttress to a belay on the side of the gully.

3) 30m Cross the gully and climb a pleasant rib to a good belay ledge left of the bush.

4) 30m Up the continuation rib for 20m then step right at a chockstone to gain another rib to a good ledge.

5) 25m Climb a steep crack through poorlooking orange rock left of the gully. This can easily be avoided on the left, reducing the overall grade to Very Difficult.

STEEP

6. Culture Shock HVS 5a

BOLD

150m. An adventurous outing up the centre

of the face, with some pleasant easy climbing lower down, and an excitingly exposed crux high on the route.

1) 25m Start in between two trees low on the right side of face and climb a left-slanting diagonal crack up the initial white wall to a ledge and huge thread.

2) 25m Scramble straight up to a ledge and small bush beneath a steep orange tower.

3) 15m (4a) The tower is climbed steeply to a small rock ledge.

4) 25m Easy ground straight up to a terrace beneath the steep orange wall.

5) 27m (4a) From chockstones at the top-left of the terrace go up suspect-looking steep ground to gain a left-trending ramp. Follow this with excellent exposure to a poor belay around the corner. The way ahead looks unlikely...

6) 10m (5a) A serious pitch. Move out left onto an exposed nose, then make a tricky traverse back right to gain the crack in the niche. Climb this to a stance.

7) 23m (4a) Continue up the groove-line trending up and left to an excellent steep finish on black rock.

Idaougnidif – Adrar Asmit and some tremendous climbing, this is one of the finest easy routes in the Anti-Atlas.

Commitment is generally low, though parties should be prepared to encounter some bold climbing as well as a technically challenging crux high on the route.

1) 35m Start just right of a tree in a small bay on the right side of the face. Climb easily up white rocks, with one tricky move off a ledge, until the angle steepens and the rock takes on a pinkish brown hue. Step right to a good ledge.

2) 20m Move back left onto the brown rock and climb straight up to a ledge with a bush.

3) 20m The wall above offers a number of possible lines, though some are rather bold.

Options to the left are generally easier and better protected. Boulder belay on a large ledge below and right of the steep orange wall.

4) 10m Go rightwards up a cracked wall to belay by a bush in a left-slanting groove system.

5) 30m The Black Groove Pitch – first class climbing up the slanting groove system above the steep orange wall, with perfect protection and superb exposure. Interest is maintained throughout, until a distinct crux marks the end of the difficulties at 25m. From here an easy ramp leads 5m left to a stance.

6) 30m Easy scrambling, with big holds, good rock, and lots of exposure. Photo page 94 Childbirth (E1 5b). Rachel Mellor... lovin' it.

Page 95

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Roadside Crag Prickly Pear Lekst Tower Amzkhssan Wall Deep Well Pinnacles Col Crags Azumer Crag All Relative Gorge Tassila Gorge Buzzard Crag Lower Buzzard Crystal Walls Adrar Iffran Arrow Rock Twin Towers Adrar Asmit Adrar Aiyur Adrar Umlil Brussels Cliff Brokeback Mountain

7. Wild Country Very Difficult

145m. With a remote setting, easy approach and descent, solid rock, large belay stances

97

Idaougnidif – Adrar Umlil

Map p60

1hr

1hr

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Roadside Crag Prickly Pear Lekst Tower Amzkhssan Wall Deep Well Pinnacles Col Crags Azumer Crag All Relative Gorge Tassila Gorge Buzzard Crag Lower Buzzard Crystal Walls Adrar Iffran Arrow Rock Twin Towers Adrar Asmit Adrar Aiyur Adrar Umlil Brussels Cliff Brokeback Mountain

3. Beacon E3 5c

Will Benfold on the panoramic finish to Prince of Persia (HVS 5b) on Adrar Umlil 1. Page 109

190m. The impressive front face of the tower

gives a climb of significant difficulty. Start at the foot of the lower slabby wall beneath overhangs.

1) 30m (4b) Climb up boldly to a stance below the roof.

2) 40m (5c) Go up a corner, passing the roof on its left, and continue up a steep wall above to a stance.

3) 45m (5b) Continue straight up the fine face to easier ground on the left side of the tower.

Scramble up to belay above the tower as for Jafaar.

4) 35m (4c) Climb rightwards, passing the chimney to a stance beneath the roof.

5) 40m (5c) Go right, then make committing moves up the arĂŞte before finishing up the face to the left. An escape up the corner is possible on the right.

4. Bat Out of Hell HVS 5b

185m. An optimistic line up the groove in the

front of the tower left of The Lion King.

1) 40m (4c) Climb a vegetated crack left of the large chimney, then move up through vegetation to the foot of the Lion King corner.

2) 30m (5b) Start up the corner, but then traverse out left across the slab to belay on a ledge below a crack.

3) 60m (4c) Climb the long crack / groove to a belay on top of the tower.

4) 40m (4c) Continue up grooves in the rib to the left of the chimney (or take the chimney at the same grade).

5) 20m (4a) A final groove leads to the top.

110

5. The Lion King HVS 5b

CRACK

GEAR

185m. The exhilarating long corner up the

west face is a big climb up a strong natural line, providing the easiest way up some exquisite ground. Start in a deep gully at the right side of the tower.

1) 15m (-) From the deep chockstone-capped gully climb a wide crack on the right wall to a large ledge.

2) 20m (-) Move up and left through vegetation and a couple of rock ribs to belay at the foot of the enticing long corner.

3) 15m (5b) Pull up from the belay to gain the corner and follow it with some difficulty to a stance above a steepening.

4) 25m (5a) Go up past some questionable blocks, moving right to gain the continuation corner. Climb this on excellent holds to a stance below vegetation.

5) 35m (4c) The Bat Cave Pitch. Bridge over the bush with surprising ease and climb right up into the cave. Exit left at the top and continue up the corner, passing several ledges, to a superb belay on the top of the lower tower.

6) 15m (-) Easy climbing to gain a pleasant, flat, stone-covered ledge.

7) 50m (4c) Go up the gully above with increasing interest to a superb finish on good holds. Numerous belay possibilities en-route.

Photo page 63

YES

1hr

1hr

YES

Hitch

NO

NO

Map p60

Idaougnidif – Adrar Umlil Sidi M'Zal

Umlil 2 West Face PM

Idaougnidif Afantinzar

60m

Overview Page XX

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

lly

Roadside Crag

de sce nt do wn

gu

Prickly Pear

Amzkhssan Wall

no

2

Lekst Tower

Deep Well Pinnacles Col Crags Azumer Crag All Relative Gorge Tassila Gorge Buzzard Crag Lower Buzzard Crystal Walls Adrar Iffran Arrow Rock Twin Towers

5

Adrar Asmit Adrar Aiyur

4

Adrar Umlil

3

Brussels Cliff Brokeback Mountain

111

Map p60

Idaougnidif – Adrar Umlil Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Roadside Crag Prickly Pear Lekst Tower Amzkhssan Wall Deep Well Pinnacles Col Crags Azumer Crag All Relative Gorge Tassila Gorge Buzzard Crag Lower Buzzard Crystal Walls Adrar Iffran Arrow Rock Twin Towers Adrar Asmit Adrar Aiyur Adrar Umlil Brussels Cliff Brokeback Mountain

Tower 5 The most southerly of the five towers comprises of a very steep, orange, west face, split by numerous gullies and buttresses. At the right side of the face is the steep South Ridge, where the crag swings round on to the much friendlier south face: home to a handful of delightful easy climbs. Routes on the west face are described first.

To descend from the summit scramble off the 'back' side to regain the hillside in front of Adrar Asmit. Turn right and descend from a col, where a small track passes beneath the north face of Adrar Aiyur and eventually on to Afantinzar.

1. Ice Age Hard Severe

175m. Nice climbing up the broad buttress at

the left side of the rambling 5th tower. There is a prominent tree high on the left wall, and this route follows generally slabby ground to reach the tree at the top of pitch 4. The line can also be identified by a jagged crack low down, clearly seen from the approach. Start on large white blocks that abut the overhanging base of the face.

1) 35m (4a) From the high point of the blocks make a steep pull onto the face and climb up to a wide crack. Follow this more easily and continue to a good ledge below the wide jagged crack.

2) 20m (-) The wide crack provides a fine layback and leads to a pinnacle belay.

3) 50m (-) The prominent high tree is just about visible above... Climb easy but bold rock heading for the tree, until a small vegetated ledge provides a belay at 50m.

4) 35m (-) Go up a vague groove until the rock becomes more shattered. From here traverse right onto the rib just below the tree. Belay in the gully.

5) 35m (4b) From behind the tree step up into a worryingly broken groove, then make bold moves out right to gain easier ground. Finish up the right-hand of two upper cracks, which provides a strenuous sting in the tail.

Photo page 129 STEEP

2. Event Horizon HVS 5a

150m. The steep central buttress gives a superb and atmospheric climb of great character, which is consistent throughout 120

1hr

1hr

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

and generally low in the grade. There are four brilliantly steep and exposed pitches featuring excellent climbing on good rock. Start by scrambling up clean rock in the bed of the gully right of Ice Age, belaying at the foot of a steeper rib of rock.

1) 25m (4a) Start up the right-hand gully until it is possible to step left onto the fin. Follow this to its top, then climb a steep crack on the right wall of the chimney to a small ledge.

2) 20m (5a) Step left across the gully and traverse up left to an exposed step left around the arête. Difficult and very exposed moves then follow to a belay up left in a small niche.

3) 30m (4c) Move left and climb up to slabby ground below overhangs. Work right to gain a prominent steep flake which provides an airy way through the first overhang. (It is possible to avoid this via a traverse right under the fin of white rock). At the top of the flake move right to a stance, then up steep ground to a good ledge.

4) 40m (4c) Climb a grassy gully until a step right gains the front face. Continue up the left side of the buttress, pulling through several overhangs to a ledge below a wide crack.

5) 35m (4b) The steep, wide crack provides a brilliant finale, finishing up grooves and flakes in the final tower. Photos page 61 and 73

3. Vanishing Point VS 4c

175m. An interesting climb, following an

intricate line through some steep ground.

Start at a crack, just left of a gully.

1) 45m (4b) Climb the vague crack with an awkward layback to an optional belay by vegetation on the right. Tricky steep climbing through cracks on the arête then leads to a ledge. Continue to a second, larger ledge.

2) 40m (4b) Go up a short gully on the left side of the buttress, then a nice wall to regain the crest. Work up right across a slab to an oasis.

3) 30m (4c) From the front left corner of the ledge down-climb a narrow ledge-system into the clean chasm on the left. Step across onto a slab, then move up right to gain a ramp leading left under the overlap. Go along this to a tricky move at the arête, before continuing more easily to belay at vegetation on the right.

4) 30m (4c) Go up past an overlap to a ledge beneath overhangs. Make a few steep bouldery moves through the first roof, heading for a roof crack above. This is avoided on the right to gain a belay above.

1hr

1hr

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p60

Idaougnidif – Adrar Umlil Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif

8

Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

7

Roadside Crag Prickly Pear

6

Lekst Tower Amzkhssan Wall Deep Well Pinnacles

5

Col Crags Azumer Crag

3

All Relative Gorge

4

Tassila Gorge Buzzard Crag

2

Lower Buzzard Crystal Walls Adrar Iffran Arrow Rock Twin Towers Adrar Asmit

1

Adrar Aiyur

60m PM

Brussels Cliff

Overview Page XX

Umlil 5 West Face

Adrar Umlil

Brokeback Mountain

121

Afantinzar – Ighir Crags Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif

MULTI PITCH

Afantinzar

Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden ArĂŞte Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

Approach: 15-20 minutes Aspect: South An extensive hillside of fine, south-facing crags of perfect orange quartzite.

25

Speciality: Mid-grade, multi-pitch sunshine.

Area Map: Page XX

Tagzene

The attractive south-facing crags above the village of Ighir were a surprisingly late discovery, escaping the interest of climbers until 2011 despite their obvious and easily accessible position at the start of the Samazar Road. For climbers looking for mid-grade multi-pitch routes in the sunshine, Ighir is an ideal venue with perfect orange quartzite and reliably highquality climbing, including a number of local classics.

The main buttress, Rainbow Buttress, was the first to be climbed, and although it is located in Afantinzar, it is accessed from the Samazar road: take the small turning onto the Samazar Road in Ighir, following the dirt track to a small pull-out just in front of Rainbow Buttress.

Several poor trails leave the road hereabouts, reaching the crag in about 15 minutes.

West Buttress These substantial slabs lie a short way further along the Samazar road from the main section of the crag. Routes here are less well-travelled, and will suit adventurous teams in search of an 'off-the-beaten-track' experience.

Parking is available some 200m before the Agadir Tower on the Samazar Road.

Descent is possible in either direction.

West Buttress page XX

134

1:10

15m

YES

NO

NO

Hitch

NO

1. Uli's Pub HS 4b

Ighir Crags

6

Samazar

Map p133

45m. The small tower to the left of the main

crags, starting below an obvious chimney cutting the east face.

1) 20m (4a) Climb a corner then the chimney.

2) 25m (4b) Traverse 4m right and go up a ridge to a final wall.

2. Dolomito Primo Amore HVS 5a

ADVENTURE

160m. Good climbing up the central rib.

1) 50m (-) Climb easy slabs and walls to belay in a gully.

2) 20m (-) Trend right to a terrace at the bottom of the pillar. Block belay.

3) 25m (5a) Climb a short crack then traverse right into a fine corner crack, hidden behind the edge of the pillar. Go up the corner to a pinnacle belay.

4) 25m (4a) A fine wall leads to the left edge of a ledge beneath an overhang.

5) 20m (5a) Traverse 8m right to a weakness in the overhang, surmounting this to a stance between the pillar and the main wall.

6) 25m (4a) A final wall leads to scrambling.

3. Help for Friends HVS 5a

ADVENTURE

130m. The buttress just right of the smooth,

overhang-capped slabs.

1) 45m (-) Start up easy slabs to a ledge.

2) 30m (4c) Traverse right to a black corner.

Climb this, then the wall above, trending right to a stance.

3) 25m (4a) Climb the wall on the left, then a wide corner to a block belay.

4) 30m (5a) An excellent wall to finish.

Rainbow Buttress This is the main buttress, closest to Ighir, containing a handful of excellent mid-length climbs.

Descend down a vegetated gully to the right of the buttress.

1:10

20m

YES

NO

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p133

Afantinzar – Ighir Crags Sidi M'Zal

West Buttress

Idaougnidif

20m

Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

1

3

2

Ighir Crags Akida STEEP

4. Crack of Gold HVS 5a

2) 50m (5b) Climb the overhanging cracks

UNCHECKED

140m. Reported to provide 4 pitches of excellent climbing, though the exact line of this has not been identified. Start 5m left of Crooked Eclipse.

1) 40m (5a) Climb stepped cracks to belay in a large niche.

2) 35m (5a) Take the overlap above the belay on the right, then traverse left into a corner.

Pull up onto a rib and climb the centre of the wall to belay on a ledge below another corner.

3) 35m (5a) Climb thin cracks in the corner, then go up blocks and ledges to belay by a bush beneath a corner and cracked roof.

4) 30m (4c) Go up the awkward corner to an easier finish.

STEEP

5. Crooked Eclipse HVS 5b

135m. A steep and sustained outing up the

left side of the buttress, providing considerable difficulty. The route starts some 5m left of a big gully, guarded by prickly pears.

1) 30m (4b) Climb easily up the left side of a black streak (or take the streak directly at 5b, bold), then move back right and follow a black crack to a belay beneath twin bulging cracks.

with difficulty to gain easier ground to a large terrace. Belay at the base of a black crack, close to a prickly pear.

3) 35m (5a) Climb the steep corner crack, moving right at the top into the continuation corner. Follow this to an easier groove and continue to a belay beneath an overhangcapped wall.

4) 20m (5a) Step left and follow a crack leading to the left side of the overhang. Climb this and the crack above to the top.

6. Orange Rocket VS 5a

160m. A super climb up the obvious orange

pillar in the centre of the buttress. The route is mostly fairly easy, on good rock, with a short, hard crux on pitch 2. Start below a spur on the right of a vegetated gully.

1) 35m (4a) Climb the spur, then enter a rightslanting chimney to a small terrace.

Rainbow Buttress page XX

135

Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden ArĂŞte Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

Afantinzar – Lower Eagle Crag Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden Arête Maison Rouge Sanctuary

a ledge, then steeply right to another good ledge.

6) 45m (4c) Up the left edge to the top of the tower.

7) 15m (-) Finish up the slab to easy ground.

11. Fifty Shades of Grey E1 5b

240m. Starts just uphill from the Great White

at an attractive white rib, just right of a corner with a small tree at its base.

1) 35m (4a) Climb the rib to a belay.

2) 30m (-) Scramble up the rake to belay right of a black streak.

3) 55m (4b) Climb the crack in the slab left of the dirty corner, then trend left across slabs to climb a crack in the small overlap.

4) 30m (4b) Continue directly to a large ledge.

5) 30m (5b) Climb the corner crack then step up and right over bulges. Move up, then climb boldly up leftwards to belay at the base of a prominent dog-leg crack.

6) 35m (4c) Climb the crack, then step right and make steep moves up to a stance at a crevasse.

7) 25m (5a) Make a tricky step onto the wall then trend up right past a flake to the top.

Lower Eagle

12. Donkey Serenades Severe

Middle Eagle

300m. A surprisingly easy climb passing

Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

through some impressively steep ground.

1) 20m Scramble up an easy ramp to a belay ledge at the base of grey slabs.

2) 30m Climb the slabs, trending left towards a large tree. Belay beneath an overlap.

3) 40m Go past the overlap to a huge ledge, and continue up slabs on the right.

4) 10m Walk left to the foot of black-streaked slabs.

5) 30m Climb the black slabs on the right side.

6) 15m Walk left along a terrace beneath the huge overhanging wall.

7) 40m Climb up slabs to the left of the overhanging wall.

8) 30m Trend left to an exciting belay by a corner, below a steep final wall.

9) 30m The headwall is avoided by continuing left to gain easy slabs.

10) 60m Easy scrambling to the top. Photo page 161

13. Pink Lady VS 4c

230m. A tremendous way up the face, giving

one of the best and most popular long routes in the Anti-Atlas. The route is not sustained, but features a couple of short cruxes in splendid

162

Map p133

1:15

15m

NO

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

situations. It is described here with the full 9 pitches in order to provide options in case of traffic jams, as this is one of very, very few routes in Tafraout where queues have been known to develop. In reality, parties usually complete the climb in 5 rope-lengths.

1) 30m (-) Easy climbing up a short groove, then make an airy step left and climb an easy slab to a narrow grassy ledge.

2) 20m (4a) Follow pleasant slabs to a poor stance at the foot of the chimney groove.

3) 20m (4c) Excellent technical climbing up the chimney leads to a large ledge (the Partytime Belay).

4) 25m (-) Continue up the easy groove above the ledge, then trend up right to a stance below the steep pillar.

5) 25m (4a) Good climbing, trending slightly right to a belay beneath a black wall.

6) 25m (4c) A superb rising traverse left up the obvious groove leads to the arête. Step back right and go up a short groove to a dead-end at the overhang. Unlikely-looking moves rightwards hopefully reveal a hidden jug above the overhang, which facilitates an airy swarm onto a sloping ledge (the Snoggers' Perch).

7) 30m (4b) Bridge up the black chimney, exiting left at the top. Finish straight up steep ground on good holds to a large ledge system (the Lunchtime Ledge).

8) 15m (-) Scramble up an easy groove to belay below the left end of the arching overhang.

9) 45m (4b) Climb up to the right of a rightfacing undercut corner to gain a fascinating hand-traverse left under the roof. This leads to another unlikely move, pulling steeply through the overhang at a weakness into a right-trending groove and easier finish.

Photos page 165 and 166

13A. Real Men Wear Pink VS 4c 230m. A variation on Pink Lady, taking the groove and ribs to the right of the initial slabs and rejoining beneath the black wall.

STEEP

14. Imacularder HVS 5a

210m. The tempting steep orange line, starting 20m left of the major black streak.

Follow a crack to a ledge with a bush on the arête. From here continue straight up the arête, using the left wall whenever the ground gets too steep.

Map p133

Afantinzar – Lower Eagle Crag

Photo by Arnaud Viel

20m PM

24

The Grand Wall

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida

22

Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden Arête

20

21

Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle

14

Middle Eagle

A

13

Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags

11

12

10

Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

6

7

8

9

Hitch

NO

19

NO

18

YES

16

NO

23

15m

17

1:15

163

Map p133

Afantinzar – Lower Eagle Crag Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden Arête Maison Rouge

15. Black Beauty E1 5b

Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

provides a superb natural line and one of the best climbs on the crag. Start beneath a crack on the right side of the black streak, about 5m left of a chimney.

1) 15m (5a) Go up a right-trending crack, breaking left to ledges, then traverse up left to a groove with a good stance.

2) 35m (5b) A superb, committing pitch with just about enough protection. Climb straight up the black streak until it is possible to move right into a groove. Continue directly to a stance on the left of the black streak.

3) 50m (5a) A tricky start gains easier climbing above. Continue up to a corner, then follow this through a bulge to belay below a tree.

4) 50m (5b) Move up right into a technical groove, then make tricky moves onto the right rib. Continue up a crack and weakness in the overhang, then climb up slabs above, heading up left to reach a big ledge.

5) 60m (4c) Finish up a groove line left of the overhangs.

16. My Little Pony E2 5c

200m. A minor variation, linking Black

Beauty with the upper section of Imacularder, providing some steep climbing.

1&2) 50m (5a,5b) As for Black Beauty.

3) 50m (5b) From the left edge of the ledge, climb the right-facing corner, curving rightwards until it is possible to move straight up. Climb up, trending slightly left, to surmount a bulge and continue to a ledge with a tree (about half way up P3 of Black Beauty).

4) 45m (5c) Climb the right-hand crack and trend rightwards to a further crack on the right side of the overhang above. Make a strenuous move over this onto a ledge, then continue up a runnel, heading leftwards to join Imacularder.

5) 60m (4c) As for Imacularder.

17. Moroccan Gold E2 5c

MOSSY

210m. Difficult climbing up a chimney and grooves 5m right of the black streak.

18. Pale and Interesting E1 5a

200m. Another direct line up the wall, starting up the first pitch of Moroccan Gold.

1) 25m (4c) Emma’s Chimney – climb the chimney to a small stance.

164

20m

NO

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

2) 30m (4c) Traverse horizontally right until

210m. The obvious broad black streak

Sanctuary Lower Eagle

1:15

difficult moves lead up a steep crack to a ledge.

3) 30m (5a) Step left and climb the steep wall over two bulges to a ledge under the obvious roof. Pull over the right side of the roof and follow a groove to a good ledge.

4) 45m (4c) Continue in the same line.

5) 45m (4a) Easier climbing to another ledge.

6) 25m (-) Easy ground to the top.

19. Another Day at the Coal Face E1 5b

200m. Follows a left-slanting black line up the

centre of the face. Start up a shallow groove leading to a break in overhangs at 15m. Above the overhang move left and follow a direct line to the top.

STEEP

20. Infinity E4 5c

BOLD

190m. Two wonderfully contrasting hard pitches providing one of the best and most difficult big climbs in the valley. Start from behind a large boulder.

1) 30m (5c) Gain a tiny groove then trend boldly up and right to the break in Herbivore.

Power up the superb flake crack above to a spike belay in a groove.

2) 40m (5b) Swing right and follow the fine flake for 15m before another steep move right through a bulge. Climb an overhung flake to belay on the left end of a large ledge.

3) 60m (4c) Continue in the same line through black and brown bulges.

4) 60m (5a) Direct to the top.

STEEP

21. Herbivore E2 5c

MOSSY

265m. Another bold and technical outing up the blank central face.

1) 35m (5c) Start as for Another Day at the Coalface then continue rightwards along a break to belay below a cave.

2) 50m (5b) Traverse right again until a steep juggy section allows a traverse back left and into the cave (bold). Bridge out of the cave and continue direct over several bulges.

3,4,5) Easier climbing direct to the top.

22. Artful Dodging VS 4c

MOSSY

210m. Start near the centre of the wall, where a series of leftward flakes lead up to the prominent rightwards-trending slabs. After 1 pitch on the slab, break left onto the wall and follow the easiest line via a large block and cave.

1:15

20m

NO

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p133

Afantinzar – Lower Eagle Crag

23. Sheaf O’Clock Severe

Sidi M'Zal

MOSSY

Idaougnidif

250m. A long, meandering route that provides the easiest

way up this part of the face.

1) (30m) As for Another Day at the Coalface to gain the sloping ledge.

2) (25m) Go rightwards along the ledge to the point where the previous climb heads up and left.

3) (35m) Continue rightwards onto the lichenous slab, heading for the base of a prominent corner.

4) (30m) From the base of the corner climb rightwards around onto the face of the slab, then go directly up.

5) (35m) Easy climbing to an obvious flake in the wall above.

6) (30m) Climb the flake then head for an orange crackline trending leftwards.

7) (40m) Pull through to gain the crack and follow it leftwards to a huge ledge.

8) (25m) Finish up the shady corner on excellent rock.

24. The Way of the Goat HVS 5a

Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall

MOSSY

Hidden Arête

210m. A rather unsatisfactory and arboreal adventure

starting by a tree abutting an overhang… Climb the tree to gain the wall above the overhang, then go up to a ledge on the left. Follow the big corner to another ledge and climb up a groove on the right. Finish up a leftwards ramp to easier ground. A direct variation has also been climbed.

Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

First-class climbing on the exposed sixth pitch of Pink Lady (VS 4c) on Lower Eagle's Grand Wall; one Tafraout's great classics. Page 162 Photo by Ben Lister

165

Afantinzar – Lower Eagle Crag

Map p133

1:15

20m

NO

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden ArĂŞte Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

One of the most popular routes on the north side of the range, the 230 metre Pink Lady (VS 4c) on Lower Eagle's Grand Wall is about the only place in the Anti-Atlas where you might find a queue! Jen Booys and Kerry Mellor embarking upon a brilliant day out... Page 162

166

10m

1:15

MULTI PITCH

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p133

East Face

Middle Eagle Crag Approach: 10 - 20 minutes Aspect: Various Sunshine and shade available on a variety of different faces.

6

Afantinzar – Middle Eagle Crag

25

Sidi M'Zal

The attractive face on the left side of the crag is seen face-on when driving up the Afantinzar Road, and is easily reached in 15-20 minutes from roadside parking at Anammer.

Claude Davies, Derek Walker & Pete Turnbull, March 2007

Tagzene

The clean and attractive line of slabs gives a fine climb with 4 - 5 pitches to the top.

This is the large isolated buttress of rock to the west of Lower Eagle Crag, on the south side of the road opposite Anammer. Known as Igiliz to the locals, Middle Eagle Crag offers a variety of routes on good rock without the seriousness of its more illustrious neighbour.

There is good climbing on the east, north and western faces, so climbers can find sunshine or shade as required.

Afantinzar

Samazar

1. The East Ridge Severe

Speciality: Low commitment climbs with an adventurous feel to them.

Area Map: Page 167

Idaougnidif

Les Brown and Noreen Hinton repeating the pleasant East Ridge (Severe) on Middle Eagle Crag.

Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden ArĂŞte

From the summit an easy walk south, towards the extensive wall of Upper Eagle Crag regains the hillside. From here it is possible to head back to the road on either side of the buttress.

Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle

The East Face AM

Upper Eagle

10m

Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

1

167

Map p133

Afantinzar – Griffin Rock Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif

CRAGGING

Afantinzar

Speciality: Easily accessible, steep climbs - the hardest in the valley.

Area Map: Page XX

Tagzene

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden Arête Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags

Approach: 10 - 20 minutes Aspect: North & South Clean rock with sunshine and shade.

25

Samazar

Jebel Taskra

Griffin Rock

YES

10m

1:15

YES

YES

Hitch

NO

Park at a large clear area opposite the last house before the road starts climbing up to the pass. A small trail leads up to the eastern end of the rock (about 10 minutes) and on into Hidden Valley. The first route is located on a prominent pinnacle a further 10 minute walk up the valley, but the rest of the climbing is focussed around the eastern end of the ridge.

Areas are described in an anti-clockwise sense around the crag.

This popular cragging venue lies on the ridge Many of the routes here require an abseil between the Afantinzar road and a hidden descent and some have seen little traffic. valley below the western end of Upper Eagle Climbers should therefore be prepared to Crag, with climbing on both the south face replace aging anchors on any of these climbs. (overlooking Hidden Valley) and the north face Katja Broadbent on the delightful (overlooking the Afantinzar Road). There are Grasshopper Arête (VS 4b) on the Australia some longer and more adventurous pitches Buttress, Griffin Rock. Page 179 here than at neighbouring Anammer, and the rock here is more typical of that found on the bigger multi-pitch routes.

Climbers looking for an easy Anammer Square North day out, however, would do Field better to head across the Side Towards Pinnacle Idaougnidif Buttress road to Anammer, as there’s Bay not much here below the Area extreme grades. This is one NE of the highest roadside crags Corner in the Anti-Atlas, so whilst Towards Tanalt it is the first to catch poor weather in the winter, it can be a good option on hot CK days, particularly as many of RO The FIN F I R the routes face north and stay Chicken G out of the sun.

Y E

LL

Ksar Rock

Tweedle Dee

Azrol Aeromaine

176

D

ID

H

A Australia V Buttress

EN

LE DD MI GLE A E Path to AG CR

Upper Eagle Crag

1:15

10m

YES

YES

YES

Hitch

NO

Map p133

Afantinzar – Griffin Rock Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden Arête Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

177

Map p133

Afantinzar – Griffin Rock Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden Arête Maison Rouge

1:15

10m

YES

YES

YES

Hitch

NO

Tweedle Dee Pinnacle

3. Crack of Worms E2 5b

This prominent pinnacle is located at the far end of the Hidden Valley behind Griffin Rock. It holds a couple of routes with an abseil descent.

25m. The central crack in the steep wall 60m

1. Kazbah Crack VS 4c

ABSEIL

15m. Climbs the leaning crack in the east

face of the pinnacle, with some steep ground at the top.

2. Tweedle Dee Severe

ABSEIL

20m. Follows the easy-angled rib clearly seen

when approaching up Hidden Valley.

Australia Buttress From the eastern end of the ridge, where the path crosses into Hidden Valley, walk about 100m along the south face to a fine clean wall, which holds a number of good mid-grade routes with abseil descents.

CRACK

left of the main Australia Buttress.

4. Virgin Nuts E1 5b

ABSEIL

LOOSE

45m. The arête 50m left of Kangaroo Rib,

requiring some care with fragile rock. Climb the arête using a crack on the left to a fine layback flake with a tricky finish.

5. Samaa Zarka HS 4b

ABSEIL

40m. Start just left of the jammed boulder

gully of Kangaroo Rib directly below a nose at three metres. Climb up to the right of a corner stepping left underneath the nose into a crack.

Climb this and the buttress to its right to a diagonal crack through a roof. Step left onto the orange wall and climb up rightwards to a groove and easier rock above. Descend by walking east to the top of Ten Pound Pom.

Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle

20m

Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

3

Tweedle Dee Pinnacle AM

15m

Overview Page XX

178

1 2

UNCHECKED

1:15

10m

YES

YES

Hitch

NO

YES

6. Kangaroo Rib E1 5b

Map p133

LOOSE

Afantinzar – Griffin Rock

ABSEIL

50m. The left arête gives a good long pitch, though care is required with suspect rock.

7. Arapiles Calling E1 5a

BOLD

Idaougnidif

ABSEIL

12. Grasshopper Arête VS 4b

ABSEIL

40m. The right-hand arête gives some super, steep climbing to mid-height ledges. Step right from here for a bold move onto the upper arête. Tremendous! Photo page 176

ABSEIL

50m. Start up the right-hand rib, until a step

left leads up the groove to a ledge. Step back onto the arête and follow it to a final crack.

13. Amphitheatre Buttress E1 5a

50m. Start from a chimney with a jammed

block, climbing a dark stain and then groove up right to a ledge. Go up slabby ground to a final flake corner.

ABSEIL

50m. The slabby right-hand wall, finishing left onto the arête and up the final crack of Ten Pound Pom. 10. Dennis the Menace HVS 5a

11. Berber Ella HS 4b

ledge. From here move slightly right and climb a shallow groove to an abseil descent.

face and line of the abseil descent. A bold start leads to easier ground and cracks in the final brown wall.

9. Mike’s Route HVS 5a

Sidi M'Zal

35m. Start up a leftward trending flake to a

ABSEIL

50m. A good climb up the centre of the small

8. Ten Pound Pom HVS 5a

to a ledge, then step left into the upper crack.

STEEP

14. Crackerjack E3 5c

ABSEIL

50m. The obvious overhanging corner just

ABSEIL

left of Kangoo Corner is an excellent strenuous climb, and one of the classic E3s of the valley.

35m. Good climbing up a vague, streaked

crack up the left side of the buttress. Climb up

45m

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden Arête Maison Rouge Sanctuary

Griffin Rock Anammer Crags

50m

Ksar Rock

30m

Azrol Aeromaine

13 14

6 12

7

15

16

17

18

11 8

Jebel Taskra

Upper Eagle

10m

25m

5

Tagzene

Middle Eagle

Overview Page XX

50m

Samazar

Lower Eagle

Australia Buttress AM

Afantinzar

9

10

179

Map p133

Afantinzar – Griffin Rock Sidi M'Zal

Northeast Corner

Idaougnidif Afantinzar

AM

5m

1:15

YES

YES

YES

Hitch

NO

50m

5m

Overview Page XX

Samazar

15

Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida

11

Harram Peak

18 19

Amelu Wall

20

Hidden Arête Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

15. Kangoo Corner VS 4b

ABSEIL

60m. Climbs a crack just left of the arête to gain a large ledge. Traverse left and finish up a prominent chimney to a step across to the top.

16. Rest Day Rendezvous HVS 4c

WIDE

ABSEIL

60m. Starts on the right side of the bay, close to Kangoo Corner.

1) 30m (4c) Climb the crack in the prow up to a prominent ledge. Step right here and go up a short corner to a spike belay.

2) 30m (4b) Step right and follow the off-width crack to join the final section of Kangoo Corner.

Northeast Corner A collection of excellent harder climbs is located at the very eastern end of the Ridge, where the path passes between Griffin Rock and the Chicken, and then on into the Hidden Valley.

Descent from all of these climbs is by abseil, for which anchors may need replacing.

17. Tales of the Unexpected E1 5b

UNCHECKED

55m. Start below a short steep corner, 3m

left of Profusion of Protrusions. Gain the corner and easier slabs above, heading slightly left to a slim groove. Climb this and follow a large corner above to the top. Scramble along the

180

21

ridge to gain the abseil descent from Profusion of Protrusions.

18. A Profusion of

Protrusions E1 5b

STEEP ABSEIL

CRACK

50m. A brilliant steep route with large holds, following a series of jamming cracks and bulges. Can be split into two pitches if required to avoid rope-drag.

19. Seven Years E2 5b

BOLD

50m. A very fine climb, marred slightly by a

rather dangerous top section. Follow a leftleaning ramp, then go straight up the wall to a ledge with a block and possible belay.

Step right onto the rib and climb up the left arête of a short chimney. This section is poorly protected, and features some worrying holds (a runner high in the previous route is recommended to keep the rope off the sharp edge below). At the top step right again and climb the brilliant steep arête on jugs.

20. Sound of One Flip-Flopping E3 5c

STEEP

CRACK

ABSEIL

60m. A direct start to North East Corner, climbing an overhanging crack to a vague left-slanting groove.

1:15

5m

NO

YES

YES

Hitch

NO

Map p133

Afantinzar – Griffin Rock 1) 30m (5b) Climb up right through bulges

to spike belays.

2) 30m (5b) Cracks on the right lead to a cave, from where a step left gains an exposed ramp to finish.

50m

23. Pot Black HVS 5b wall. Start up a deep groove and climb steep cracks into the chimney. Follow this to the top.

STEEP

24. Perfect Partners E1 5b

23 22

SHADE

flake-grooves on the left wall of the gully.

At the top of the groove step right and pull through a bulge onto the upper wall.

25. Sick Boy HVS 5a

5m

80m. This route takes the red groove high

Overview Page XX

21. North East Corner E1 5b

on the right side of the gully. Avoid the final overhanging crack by stepping left to a shattered rib.

STEEP

CRACK

ABSEIL

60m. The third in a trio of tremendous climbs,

Afantinzar

Tagzene Jebel Taskra

ABSEIL

50m. Start up the right-hand of two steep Northeast Corner

Idaougnidif

Samazar

60m. Shady climbing up the north-facing

24

Sidi M'Zal

The Chicken

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden ArĂŞte Maison Rouge Sanctuary

taking the deep groove to a belay ledge at 30m. From here climb a crack and short chimney to gain a superb traverse out right, then finish up a groove.

This is the insignificant-looking outcrop to the east of Griffin Rock (the path into the Hidden Valley passes between this and NE Buttress).

A single route has been claimed on the northfacing wall. Descend to the right.

Middle Eagle

22. Two Left Feet E2 5b

26. Isadora Donkey HVS 5a

Griffin Rock

ABSEIL

70m. Another worthwhile but bold climb, starting a few metres right of Northeast Corner.

20m. This route climbs the prominent crackline towards the left side of the front-face.

Lower Eagle

Upper Eagle

Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

The Chicken SHADE

5m

26

Overview Page XX

181

Map p133

Afantinzar – Griffin Rock Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden Arête Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

North Buttress To the right of the Northeast Corner the crag swings round to a steep orange and black north-facing wall overlooking the Afantinzar road. This is the North Buttress, home to the hardest collection of routes in the valley, all with abseil descents.

27. Moussem E5 6a

ABSEIL

25m. A superb modern test-piece up the

1:15

5m

NO

YES

YES

Hitch

NO

overhang then pull through into a shallow groove. Finish up a weakness trending left to the top.

31. Knit One Perl One E1 5b

ABSEIL

50m. The vague black streak to the right of an area of orange rock is a good pitch.

32. The Rainmaker E1 5a

ABSEIL

50m. Climb black rock on the left wall

face 50m right of Northeast Corner. Climb rightwards to an obvious pocket at 4m then step left and go up to a large thread on the bulge at 15m. Descend by abseil from a spike.

heading for a vegetated ledge until moves can be made up right to the pinnacle. Low in the grade.

28. Bossy Boots E4 5c

50m. An excellent pitch taking the wall just

BOLD

ABSEIL

60m. Steep scoops followed by easier

climbing up the corner and lumpy pillar to the right of Moussem. Start just left of a low cave.

1) 30m (5c) Climb the scoop past two peg runners before moving right to a ledge. From here go up left to belay below a large circular niche.

2) 30m (5b) The corner forming the right side of the niche leads to a swing right onto the pillar, which is followed to the top.

29. Funky Town E1 5a

ABSEIL

60m. This rambling pitch starts some 20m

right of Bossy Boots, and has a black chimney above it. No further details are known.

30. Blackout E4 5c

ABSEIL

40m. A testing pitch, taking the right side of the mid-height roof. Climb scoops to the

Northeast Corner

182

North Buttress

33. Kasbah Tizourgane E3 5c

ABSEIL

left of the crack, with a possible lower-off from a spike at 25m. Low in the grade.

34. Cornish Cream E1 5b

ABSEIL

80m. Good climbing, providing a longer finish

to Green Plastic Dinosaur Crack.

1) 45m (5b) Follow G.P.D.C, but where that route breaks right continue straight up the wide black corner to belay by the pinnacle.

2) 35m (4c) Step off the boulder and climb a slab leftwards towards the arête. Follow this to pinnacles and scramble rightwards to finish.

35. Green Plastic Dinosaur Crack E2 5b

ABSEIL

50m. Climb the deep crack 10m left of Silver

Arête, as for Cornish Cream. This time, break right up a shallow, technical groove to a hole, then jam your way to glory!

First Bay

Deep Gully

1:15

5m

YES

NO

YES

Hitch

NO

Map p133

Afantinzar – Griffin Rock Sidi M'Zal

North Buttress SHADE

Idaougnidif

5m

Afantinzar

Overview Page XX

Samazar

50m

Tagzene

55m 50m

50m

50m

Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags

35 Akida

25m

Harram Peak Amelu Wall

21

22

23

25 27 28

29

30

31

Hidden Arête

34 33 32

Maison Rouge Sanctuary

36. Silver Arête E1 5b

ABSEIL

40m. Start as for Silver Wall, but after 3m trend

Lower Eagle

The First Bay

left to a spike on the arête. Continue left and up big flakes to the top.

To the right of North Buttress is a large bay with a pinnacle at the back. The next routes are located on this pinnacle.

37. Silver Wall E1 5b

38. The Left Edge E2 5b

BOLD

ABSEIL

30m. The west-facing wall just left of the pinnacle has a bold finish.

Square Field Buttress

ABSEIL

50m. Climb up a brown wall, then left to the arête and finish up the central groove.

39. The Beak E1 5b Pinnacle Bay

Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock

ABSEIL

50m. This pleasant climb ascends a smooth groove to pass the beak on the right, before moving back left to stand on it. Finish up a steep crack and shallow groove.

Tiger Buttress

183

Azrol Aeromaine

Map p133

Afantinzar – Griffin Rock Sidi M'Zal

Afantinzar

PM

Overview Page XX

50. Boulder Holder VS 4c

30m. The ominous dark cleft is better than it looks.

Jebel Taskra

TOP TENeasy routes

Auld Lang Syne

HS 4b Adrar Umlil Vol II Page XX

Ighir Crags Akida

Noah's Ark

52

Harram Peak

50

HS 4a Ksar Rock Vol II Page XX

The Alabama Buttress

51

HS 4a Akida Vol II Page XX

Amelu Wall

Pinnacle Ridge

Severe Prophet Peak Vol I Page XX

Hidden Arête

Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

Hitch

NO

the face is a strong line, well-protected with slings. Trend up left when things get steep to access the upper black-streaked groove.

5m

Tagzene

Sanctuary

YES

30m. The left-facing corner in the centre of

Samazar

Maison Rouge

YES

NO

5m

51. A Hole Full of Protein E1 5b

Tiger Buttress

Idaougnidif

1:15

Dragon Ridge

Severe Dragon Buttress Vol I Page XX

Tiger Buttress This super little wall of good orange quartzite is located at the far western end of the north face of Griffin Rock, and is best approached by parking at the second hairpin on the road up to the col at the top of Afantinzar, from where it is clearly visible to the east. The buttress is approached easily in about 5 minutes from the road.

50. Over the Shoulder HVS 5a

GEAR

30m. Start up the right-facing corner in the

left side of the wall. Continue up a pale streak and shallow groove to the top.

Desert Man

Severe Ksar Rock Vol II Page XX

Sun Ribon Arête

Severe Robin Hood Vol I Page XX

Imhotep

Severe Maid Marion Vol I Page XX

Serengeti

Severe Aylim Vol II Page XX

Wild Country

V.Diff Adrar Asmit Vol II Page XX

Cindies

Main Bay

page XX

page XX

Double Buttress page XX

186

Jericho page XX

1:15

CRAGGING

5m

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

YES

Map p133

Anammer Crags

Approach: 2 - 5 minutes Aspect: South Lots of sunshine on good clean rock.

6

25

Speciality: Sunny, roadside, single-pitch cragging on perfect quartzite.

Area Map: Page XX

The south-facing outcrops at Anammer offer some of the best single-pitch cragging in the region, and have become a justifiably popular destination. If you’re looking for low-grade, lowcommitment cragging in the sunshine then you need look no further than Anammer, where an almost non-existent walk-in, simple descents, perfect rock, and huge diversity of routes combine to create a wonderfully friendly and varied crag.

Novice climbers can cut their Moroccan teeth on the delightful routes of Banbury and Cinnamon Buttress, VS leaders will lose themselves amongst the dozens of three-star classics, whilst extreme climbers entertain themselves on the superlative Park End. The crag is quite extensive, and is split up into several distinct sectors as seen in the diagram below. There is much broken rock on this hillside, and the Afantinzar road provides the best spot from which to identify particular areas – the low triangular wall of Continental, as well as the isolated houses provide good Right Hand

Park End

page XX

page XX

Banbury

Afantinzar – Anammer Crags reference points. A long horizontal path runs along the bottom of the crags, linking the houses and providing a convenient means of transiting between areas. Even with this, however, it’s worth picking the parking spot nearest to your chosen area, as the whole crag extends for over half a kilometre from Cindies to the Purple Turtle.

There is ample parking along the roadside, and approaches are obvious on a first visit. Please be respectful of the local agriculture and avoid trampling fields or damaging terrace walls – a number of small trails exist and should be utilised to avoid damaging the planted land near the road. Almost all of the climbs here also overlook houses, so please adopt a low impact approach, keep noise to a minimum, and avoid climbing in large groups. Although the local people are very friendly to visiting climbers, care must be taken to maintain this good relationship.

Unfortunately there has been at least one case of young children stealing items from packs left at the foot of climbs. Whilst this was almost certainly a case of youthful curiosity it is recommended that cash and other valuable items are left locked in your vehicle. Car crime is not yet known in the valley, but common sense suggests keeping valuables out of sight to remove temptation.

Descent from almost all of the routes is obvious, and in many cases can easily be made whilst

Gritstone Fugitive

Alternative Tuck Shop page XX

Jingle Buttress page XX

Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden Arête Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock

page XX

page XX

Sidi M'Zal

Look Around You page XX

Cinnamon Buttress

Azrol Aeromaine

page XX

Purple Turtle page XX

187

Map p133

Afantinzar – Anammer Crags

1:15

5m

YES

NO

YES

Hitch

NO

Sidi M'Zal

Cindies

Idaougnidif

5m

Afantinzar

Overview Page XX

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida

6

Harram Peak Amelu Wall

7

5 4

Hidden Arête

1

2

3

Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

wearing rock shoes. On some of the longer climbs in the Banbury and Right Hand Bay areas it may be worth carrying shoes for the descent.

Cindies The excellent and secluded buttresses of Cindies is somewhat detached from the rest of the Anammer areas, but the climbs here are well- worth seeking out. The crag is easily approached in about 5 minutes straight up from the road, or can be accessed by traversing along from Jericho and the Double Buttress.

The area was first climbed by a group from Cambridge University and the name Cindies, referring to a now non-existent Cambridge nightclub, was an attempt to leave a Cambridge mark on the otherwise Oxford-dominated crags at Anammer.

1. A.T.B. HVS 4c

LOOSE

20m. Steep climbing up the rickety crack

3. Ecuador HVS 5b

GEAR

CRACK

20m. The thin crack in the impending wall

is a superb and photogenic test-piece. From good protection at the overlap make awkward moves to gain the diagonal crack and follow it to the easier wide crack above. Difficult but safe climbing that sees its fair share of air-time.

4. Sunshine Arête E2 5a

BOLD

20m. The excellent arête on its right side is unprotected and has a high crux.

5. We Are But Men Severe

WIDE

30m. The tempting off-width crack is easier

than it looks, with some excellent hidden holds.

6. Heart of Asia MVS 4b

25m. The buttress leads to an awkward

wide crack. A very short second pitch may be required before walking off to the left.

leads to a bold rock-over to the left. The route is easy for the brave, and for those willing to ignore some slightly dubious rock.

7. Be You Angels VS 4c

2. The Puppies of Wrath HS 4a

square block and make well-protected moves up to a ledge. Continue through the cruxy arête on the right to a belay.

LOOSE

20m. The buttress has some suspect rock lower down and eases considerably above.

188

30m. Another excellent pitch. Start on a

1:15

5m

YES

NO

YES

Hitch

NO

Map p133

Afantinzar – Anammer Crags

The unparalleled arête of Park End (E3 5b) at Anammer is one of the crag's little gems, although it doesn't feel so little when climbed without side-runners. Steve Broadbent on solo. Page 197. Photo by Katja Broadbent

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden Arête Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

189

Map p133

Afantinzar – Anammer Crags

1:15

2m

YES

NO

YES

Hitch

NO

Sidi M'Zal

Jingle Buttress

Idaougnidif Afantinzar

2m Overview Page XX

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

17

4 5

6

15

Ighir Crags Akida

8

Harram Peak Amelu Wall

1

Hidden Arête

3

16

9

2

Maison Rouge

10

11 12 13

14

Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

Jingle Buttress

4. Littlegate HS 4a

Towards the right hand side of the crags are two long ridges that provide fun warm-ups or scrambles. At the foot of these ridges is a very accessible and attractive wall with an excellent selection of lower-grade climbs.

20m. The smooth-looking narrow slab above Jackdaw Lane, passing to the left of a small nose.

5. Hither and Thither Very Difficult

Behind the lower wall is a chockstone chimney (moderate) that provides a speleological descent for all but the well built.

30m. A meandering outing following the easiest line up the face above the left hand tower.

1. Bevington Road VS 5a

6. Mitranan HVD

15m. The left-hand arête has some technical moves.

50m. The obvious groove / chimney is a

2. Jackdaw Lane Severe

15m. Pleasant climbing up the right-to-left slanting crack-line, with one tricky move at a steepening.

3. Keble Road Very Difficult

BOLD

15m. The slabby east face of the left-hand pillar is a good route on perfect rock, but with very sparse protection. Down-climb to the notch then descend to the left (west).

204

good long pitch, sustained at the grade with gradually increasing difficulties all the way to the top. Descend to the right.

7. Isuzu E1 5a

BOLD

15m. A bold outing up the small west-facing

wall at the bottom of the chockstone gully.

Start on the arête at the bottom of the gully and make an unprotected swing right to a sequence of steep face moves to a flake and protection at 5m. Traverse right to a small ledge on the arête, before moving up to a

1:15

2m

YES

NO

YES

Hitch

NO

Map p133

Afantinzar – Anammer Crags

leftwards traverse back across the face.

Sidi M'Zal

STEEP

8. Iziki HS 4b

Idaougnidif

15m. The crack just right of the left arête is a brilliant steep pitch. Enter the crack from the right with difficulty and follow it to excellent finishing moves out right.

Afantinzar

9. Campbell Road Severe

Tagzene

Samazar

Jebel Taskra

20m. From the chockstone at the top of Jingle

Buttress head left and climb up a crack system in a fine position.

Ighir Crags

10. Touareg VS 4c

Akida

15m. The thin crack has more holds and

protection than appearances would suggest, but features a tricky steep finish past a large triangular niche.

Harram Peak Amelu Wall

11. Magic Bop VS 4c

Hidden Arête

12m. The narrow wall to the left of the crack is something of an eliminate, with tricky moves low down and easier climbing to finish.

12. Dish Dash Difficult

7

Maison Rouge

Isuzu Tower 2m

Sanctuary

Overview Page XX

Lower Eagle

CRACK

12m. The right hand crack is a nice easy pitch, walking right to finish.

16. Nutcracker VS 4c

13. Mmm Bop Difficult

15m. Lovers of hand-jams need look no

10m. The short wall just left of the perched boulder.

14. Da Pa Do Wap Difficult

10m. The groove up to the perched boulder has a few tricky moves leftwards to finish.

15. Jingle Ridge Moderate

140m. The long ridge at the right side of

the crag is climbed in about 4 pitches and is a pleasant warm up. Difficulties can be varied to suit, and a better start possible up Dish Dash.

Descent to the right (east).

CRACK

further than this gem of a pitch up the front of Pinnacle Ridge’s lower buttress.

Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags

17. Pinnacle Ridge Difficult

130m. The ridge just right of the previous

route has some interesting exposed climbing up or around sharp pinnacles in the lower section, including an avoidable Hard Severe crack. Start from behind a slender pinnacle at the base of the crag, and choose the most interesting line above.

18. Catte Street Difficult

30m. Climbs a deep groove (with a tree at the top) below a nose on the east side of Pinnacle Ridge, about 15m uphill from the pinnacle.

205

Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

Afantinzar – Ksar Rock

Map p133

1:15

10m

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden ArĂŞte Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

One of Ksar's most popular low-grade routes takes the superb undercut wall on the front of the Cannon Tower, providing stacks of exposure at this grade.

Rachel Mellor and Katja Broadbent on Desert Man (Severe). Page 220

212

YES

10m

1:15

CRAGGING

YES

NO

Map p133

Hitch

NO

Afantinzar – Ksar Rock Despite its diminutive size when compared with some other Anti-Atlas crags, Ksar Rock has a somewhat complex structure, and many of the good lines are not immediately obvious.

Ksar Rock

Approach: 5 - 10 minutes Aspect: Various Sunshine, shade and perfect rock...

6

25

Speciality: Short, easily accessible multi-pitch crag climbs in a superb setting.

Area Map: Page XX

With a short walk-in, picturesque setting, and great variety of high-quality routes, Ksar Rock has justifiably become one of the most popular cragging destinations in the Anti-Atlas, with routes to suit most tastes and abilities. The Rock, known locally as Azrol L'Modda, stands above the small village of Anammer by the side of the Afantinzar road, and is approached in a matter of minutes from roadside parking.

Ksar, meaning 'Castle' is home to the highest concentration of 3-star routes in the range, so if you're only going to visit one crag during your stay in Morocco then this is the place to go.

Routes on Ksar vary from delightful single pitch outings to half-day adventures, and in many cases it is possible to link a variety of pitches up the full height of the crag, providing endless combinations. Despite its friendly ‘crag’ atmosphere, however, parties visiting for the first time should be aware that link-ups can often be deceptively long, and indeed the crag has been the scene of a number of near benightments. Fortunately descent from the summit is straightforward.

For simplicity the rock can be considered to have three faces of interest to the climber – the west face, with its long steep ridges; the south face, with the prominent Cannon Tower; and the shady east face, with huge soaring arêtes and foreboding corners. The north face is more gently angled and offers a convenient scramble descent down to the West Col, from where a small trail leads back to the base of the south face.

The local people of Anammer clearly enjoy scrambling up to the summit of the Rock, either via the East or West Cols, and then up an easy scramble on the north side. On the summit there is plenty of evidence of human activity, with stone shelters, fire rings, and even the odd kettle and collection of tea-glasses.

For all routes that finish on the summit the only feasible ascent is to continue over the summit plateau and descend the north face.

There is a short steep rock band right near the top, which can be descended at a number of points, before easy-angled ground leads to a vague ramp-line heading west to the West Col. From here a small track descends below the west face back to the village. To descend via the eastern side it is necessary to head north from the West Col, regaining some height to the East Col from where a good path descends below the east face.

page XX

page XX

Anam mer Crag s

Afa ntin z

ar R

Etoille Pesante page XX

oad

Well

Cannon Tower page XX

Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden Arête Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

East Face

West Face

Sidi M'Zal

Anammer Village

Lower Tier page XX

213

Map p133

Afantinzar – Ksar Rock Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida

The Central Walls

With the exception of the first two climbs, these routes all gain the scramble traverse known as the Catwalk. To descend from here either traverse left to the Catwalk Rappel route (details on page XX) or scramble up to the summit - many options exist of which Central Gully is the simplest.

STEEP

1. Civilization HVS 4c

Amelu Wall

30m. Exquisite face-climbing up the back wall

Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

ABSEIL

above the huge boulder, with well-protected, steep moves on huge holds. Descend by abseil down Paladin, or scramble left to gain the Pulpit.

2. Paladin VS 4b

ABSEIL

GEAR

35m. The corner-crack to the right is the

quintessential quartzite climb and one of the finest single-pitch routes in the valley. It has big holds, perfect protection and is quite simply a joy to climb. Descend by abseil from a variety of thin in-situ tat (care!). Photo page 227

3. Age of Empires E1 5c

GEAR

30m. A well-protected but desperately tiring

excursion up the steep side-wall right of Paladin, following the crack-line in the centre of the wall. The climb is safe, low in the grade, and on good rock throughout.

1) 25m (5c) Start as for Paladin and step right into the crack on the side-wall. This is followed on good holds to a small ledge from where an easier escape right to the arête is possible.

Instead, move back left into the steepening crack, avoiding the final overhang on the right.

Above this, move back left around the arête to a poor belay stance beneath a wide crack.

2) 25m (5b) Climb the wide crack until the angle eases, then follow the arête to the vegetation on the Catwalk.

STEEP

4. The Colour of Money VS 4c

60m. A marvellous climb, taking the left side of the wall to the right of the huge boulder.

230

10m

YES

NO

NO

Hitch

NO

1) 15m (-) Scramble up easy ground to a belay

The walls to the right of the Cannon Tower feature some of the crags finest climbs, which since the equipping of the Catwalk rappel route are no longer the expeditions they used to be.

Routes are described from left to right, starting in the bay immediately right of the Cannon Tower, behind an enormous boulder.

Harram Peak

Hidden Arête

1:15

on the pedestal, where arguments can take place about who leads the next pitch.

2) 45m (4c) Pull onto the wall and work leftwards on good holds, heading for a weakness at the left side of the upper overhang.

This is furnished with delightful holds, solid protection, and just a hint of perfection.

5. Timpani VS 4b

65m. Even the hollow-sounding flakes from

which this climb takes its name cannot fail to detract from what is yet another sensational climb at this grade. And yes, we are now running out of superlatives...

1) 15m (-) Scramble up easy ground to the pedestal belay.

2) 20m (4a) Climb straight up above the pedestal, making use of a generous helping of perfect jugs. Belay on a small scree-covered ledge beneath a chimney.

3) 30m (4b) The chimney throws in a few awkward moves and the odd hollow flake to maintain interest before things ease to the top.

6. Radio Sandwich VS 4b

85m. A long adventure up the corner system

to the right.

1) 15m (-) Scramble up to the pedestal belay as for the previous two routes.

2) 20m (-) Straight up the corner groove past a large bush to a belay in a niche right of a ledge.

3) 30m (4b) Continue straight up past the niche, stepping left below a bulge to avoid a vegetated chimney. Climb a crack to belay on a big ledge below a tree.

4) 20m (-) Go right and up the overhang above (avoidable further right), then continue up easier slabs and walls.

STEEP

7. O-Zone E2 5c

60m. Exquisite overhanging face-climbing

up the wall at the back of the Main Bay. Huge holds and good rests help, but this climb still manages to feel totally ‘out there’!

1) 30m (5c) Start from a ledge on the lower slabs and climb straight up to a left-facing flake crack. Climb this with difficulty and continue straight up the wall above via a sequence of wildly overhanging moves to a good ledge.

2) 30m (5a) Head up and left on brilliant steep flakes to a stance, then finish up the pleasant slabby wall above.

1:15

NO

YES

10m

Map p133

Hitch

NO

NO

Afantinzar – Ksar Rock Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif

The Catwalk

Afantinzar

The Catwalk Rappel (cable) 20m to CannonTower

Samazar Tagzene

20m

35m

Jebel Taskra

35m Ighir Crags

25m

Akida

25m

Harram Peak

Days ofThunder Rappel (chain)

6 4

1

The Cannon Tower

2

Amelu Wall

5

Hidden Arête

3

14

Maison Rouge

13

South Face Central Walls

12 7

10m

9

Overview Page XX

10

The Finger

Lower Eagle

11

Middle Eagle

8

Upper Eagle

STEEP

8. Aerobat E1 5b

85m. The narrow pillar at the right side of the bay gives a memorable climb with excellent stances and some incredible steep climbing.

1) 25m (5a) Start in the middle of the pillar and make awkward moves to gain a groove up its left side. Follow this to a good rock ledge.

2) 15m (5b) The overhanging pillar above is tackled directly using a combination of brute force, wishful thinking, and a few well-placed heel-hooks. A superbly amusing pitch.

3) 12m (4b) Easier ground to another good ledge.

4) 33m (4b) The next section of the pillar is steep, but is overcome easily on good holds.

Pleasant scrambling then leads to the summit.

Photos page 229 and 237 STEEP

10. Fallout HVS 5a

WIDE

80m. An amusing route that tackles the

intimidating bomb-bay chimney on the

south face. Vegetation detracts only slightly from what is a superb steep climb. Start up the crack left of Noah’s Ark. 1) 30m (5a) Brilliant steep climbing up the slightly overhanging crack leads to a vegetated belay.

2) 25m (4c) Climb cracks to gain the undercut chimney. A wide crack on the left wall makes things look all too easy, but sooner or later the chimney will suck you in... before spitting you back out again higher up. Finish rightwards with relief.

3) 25m (4a) Go up the excellent wall above on superb holds, finishing directly up steep ground (as for Noah’s Ark).

STEEP

11. Noah’s Ark HS 4b

Sanctuary

CRACK

60m. Another superlative route with three very

varied pitches providing one of the best routes of this grade in the valley. Start from the terrace at the top of the lower tier.

231

Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

Map p133

Afantinzar – Ksar Rock Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden Arête Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

The East Face

To access the east face park on the roadside close to the track leading to the main village.

Walk along this track through the village, until a trail leads between houses and on to terraces up to the East Col. As this approach passes through private property please respect the privacy of the local people.

To regain the East Col from the summit of Ksar rock it is necessary to head west on the north side of the rock and gain the ramp leading down to the West Col. From here, turn right and follow the base of the rocks back east, climbing steadily to regain the East Col. A small trail leads from here back to the village.

1. Voodoo HVS 5a

BOLD

100m. A delicate climb with an excellent

and bold first pitch, but some rather scrappy climbing to reach the Altar. The fine, final pitch was added as part of 'Breaking Strain' in 2010, but makes a worthwhile finish to this route.

1) 15m (4c) An exquisite pitch on immaculate rock. Start from the left side of the initial wall and climb steeply, trending right to a good runner. From here several bold and fingery 4c moves continue up and right to a comfortable belay ledge.

2) 25m (4b) Continue up the buttress, staying close to the crest to reach a sling belay.

3) 30m (4a) A pleasant short arête, then easy ground leads to a final steep wall up to the Altar. Evidence of local people having gained the Altar is both present, and perplexing.

3) 30m (5a) The stepped arête and exquisite crystal corner above provides a superb finale.

ABSEIL

LOOSE

70m. A poor route to the Altar, with some

questionable rock.

1) 25m Start above a Rose bush and climb right, through a tree, into a groove and upwards to a large ledge.

238

15m

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

2) 25m Leave rightwards from the ledge to

The shady east face of Ksar rock consists of steep corners, soaring arêtes, and huge wide cracks, and is easily visible on the drive up the Afantinzar road. The routes here are secluded, and tend to have a more serious feel to them, with a fair amount of loose rock that requires a careful approach. The face is at its best on hot sunny days, when it provides a superb escape from the heat.

2. East Anglia Severe

1:15

gain a groove, leading to another ledge.

3) 20m Go up a crack to a ledge, then climb the right wall to the Altar.

STEEP

3. Breaking Strain E4 6a

85m. The desperately steep orange groove

yields to strenuous jams and inventive footwork, and provides the most difficult route of the crag. The upper pitches are technically much easier.

1) 35m (6a) Follow the groove and crack through bulges to the left of the big downward pointing flake. Finish directly up the left-trending weakness to belay on ledge.

The upper crux section is sustained and the gear just adequate.

2) 20m (5b) Airy climbing up the arête, using the crack out right when required. This leads to the Altar, from where a 55m abseil reaches the ground. Alternatively it is possible to finish up the last pitch of Voodoo...

3) 30m (5a) Continue up the stepped arête and exquisite crystal corner above as for Voodoo.

4. Oestrogen E2 5c A0

ABSEIL

CRACK

55m. This steep, hard route was the first to

tackle the intimidating East wall of the Altar, and awaits a full free ascent.

1) 20m (5c A0) Climb the wall to the left of the crack to an overhang. Surmounting this proves awkward, and pulling on gear is a popular option. The wide crack above leads to a belay ledge.

2) 35m Climb jamming cracks on the left, then slabs to reach the Altar with some relief. Either abseil from here or continue up the final pitch of Voodoo.

5. If I Sit Still Too Long I Catch Fire E2 5c

STEEP

CRACK

BOLD

95m. The front face of the Chandelle provides

a memorable and perhaps saltatory challenge that will call upon brute force, technique, and strength of character in equal proportions.

Start at the second wide crack to the left (downhill) from the huge corner, to the left of a black-streaked orange face.

1) 30m (5c) Climb, if you can, the corner until twin cracks on the left bypass bushes.

2) 25m (5b) Place a high runner, then step onto the arête, move right under an overlap

15m

1:15

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p133

Afantinzar – Ksar Rock Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif

Ksar East Face AM

Afantinzar

15m

The Chandelle

Overview Page XX

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

The Altar

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak

55m

Amelu Wall Hidden ArĂŞte Maison Rouge

East Buttress Route

Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle

6

4 1 2

Griffin Rock

8

5

Anammer Crags Ksar Rock

3

Azrol Aeromaine

and continue up and right to twin cracks on the front face. These lead up to blocks and a belay at the base of a monster crack...

3) 20m (5a) The thunderbolt crack requires large cams or big balls. It leads to an airy belay on top of the Chandelle.

4) 20m (5b) Bridge or jump the gap to gain the slabby ramp. This move is hard, bold, and may involve some mild peril. Continue more easily to belay near the summit. Photo page 249

6. Two Day Event VS 5a

7

MOSSY

85m. The big corner to the right of the Chandelle is a good climb, marred slightly

by dirty rock in its upper section. It is also the scene of one of Ksar's many benightments.

1) 25m (5a) Climb the corner past a steepening at 15m to a stance on the third of three pale ledges.

2) 20m (4c) The slabby left wall of the continuation corner is rather dirty and features the odd bush. Belay on a stance where the corner opens into a chimney/gully.

3) 40m (4a) Continue more easily up the chimney/gully, passing a number of chockstones to the top.

239

Afantinzar – First Ascents Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden Arête Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock

Afantinzar First Ascents February 2007 Oxford Route. Steve & Katja Broadbent Afantinzar's first recorded rock climb. The pair had driven round to the valley via Tanalt, from where it was a long, slow drive along an unsurfaced track to reach the valley. The line of Oxford Route appeared to be the easiest way up the biggest crag in sight, and so was chosen as an objective despite the fact that it had already gone midday. By the time they reached the top of the route it was getting dark and, unable to locate the descent, they were forced to spend the night on the summit wearing nothing more that cotton trousers and T-shirts.

Golden Road. Steve & Katja Broadbent The first route climbed at Anammer Crags.

Park End, Park End Chimney, St.Clements, St.Aldates, Greyhound Crack, Angel Crack.

The prominent arête of Park End is clearly visible when driving down the Afantinzar road from Tagzene. This was the direction of approach for the first exploration of the valley, and the route was one of the first lines to be spotted (and climbed) in the valley, providing the ideal antidote to the pair's benightment on Oxford Route two days earlier!

Kraminssn. Steve & Katja Broadbent Named after the popular café in Tafraoute, amusing for its lack of vowels.

Iffley Road, Wall of the Early Morning Light, Kingston Road, Cornmarket, Rose Lane, Little Clarendon Street, Walton Street, Jericho, Plantation Road. Steve & Katja Broadbent

Construction of the Afanitnzar Road, February 2007.

March 2007 East Ridge. Claude Davies, Derek Walker & Pete Turnbull A rare, guest-appearance by the south-side guru!

Immacularder, Another Day at the Coal Face, Artful Dodging, Moss Side Story. Ben & Marion Wintringham Black Beauty, Moroccan Gold. Emma Alsford & Paul Donnithorne Pale & Interesting, The Dark Side. Jim Fotheringham & Mike Mortimer The Great White. Derek Walker, Mike & Marjorie Mortimer Keep to the Line. Chris Bonington & Dave Absalom April 2007 The Way of the Carpet Seller. Steve & Katja Broadbent Floral Dance, Beaumont Street, High Street, Baby Eric, Cranham Street, Folly Bridge, Radcliffe Corner, Jackdaw Lane, Keble Road, Isuzu, Touareg, Dish Dash, Jingle Ridge, Pinnacle Ridge, Canon Buttress Direct, Sahara, Oasis, Jedi Groove, Marmalade Crack. Steve & Katja Broadbent Castles in the Sky. Steve & Katja Broadbent

Azrol Aeromaine

The first map of Afantinzar appeared in the Tafraout Livre d'Escalade in February 2007. Over the coming years an increasing number of new crags were annotated as climbers explored this brilliant valley. At the time the road was only surfaced as far as Tnin, 8.5km beyond Idaougnidif, as shown on the sketch map.

244

Afantinzar – First Ascents The pair had been intent on an ascent of the as-yet unclimbed chimney above the Cannon Tower, but had not really prepared for the occasion. When they arrived at the Pulpit the weather took a turn for the worse, a cold wind bringing light rain and an uncomfortable chill.

The overhanging chimney proved too much, and they opted instead for an overhanging line of flakes out the to right – their only hope of escape as the weather deteriorated, time ran out, and temperatures dropped.

Sunlight Buttress. Steve & Katja Broadbent The first route on Ksar Rock.

Iziki. Steve & Katja Broadbent Named after one of the bar staff in the Hotel les Amandiers, Tafraoute.

Anzar. Steve & Katja Broadbent The Berber word for 'rain'.

Amazir Crack. Steve & Katja Broadbent Amazir is a Berber word meaning ' free man'. It is often used as another name for the local Berber people.

October 2007 Iago. Mike Mortimer & Jim Fotheringham Bon Courage, Riding Dirty. Jim Fotheringham & Mike Mortimer Saladin, Otello, Mike's Route. Mike & Marjorie Mortimer Red House Arête, Double Overhang, Herbivore, Kangaroo Rib, A Profusion of Protrusions, Green Plastic Dinosaur Crack, Silver Arête, Silver Wall, Left Edge, The Beak. Paul Donnithorne & Steve Findlay Arapiles Calling, Seven Years, Northeast Corner, Tuffraoute. Steve Findlay & Paul Donnithorne Crabwalk, Juggulator, Black Groove, Tweedledee, Ten Pound Pom, Jiggery Pokery. Ben & Marion Wintringham Tweedledum. Ben Wintringham, Jim Fotheringham & Marion Wintringham Kangoo Corner. Jim Fotheringham, Ben & Marion Wintringham The Way of the Goat. Ben & Marion Wintringham The direct version was climbed by Chris Bull and Paul Mainwood in 2009.

Pharaoh's Buttress. Steve & Katja Broadbent Third Rib. Aeron Buchanan Third Crack. Leanne Common Catte Street, Cinnamon Gully. Niall Hedderley (solo) Alternative Tuck Shop. Leanne Common & Niall Hedderley Sherbert Dip. Niall Hedderley, Aeron Buchanan & Leanne Common Hither & Thither, Sunset Race Finish. Aeron Buchanan & Leanne Common

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Ighir Crags Akida Harram Peak Amelu Wall Hidden Arête

The author on Afantinzar's first recorded rock climb, Oxford Route (VS 5a) on the Amelu Wall.

Page 151 Photo by Katja Broadbent

Ground Nutmeg. Katja Broadbent (solo) Burnt Sienna, Bagel Down. Steve Broadbent (solo) Apple Pie. Niall Hedderley & Katja Broadbent Cracked Pepper. Niall Hedderley & Steve Broadbent Full of Fish, Banbury Road, Samba, The Oxford Story, Sounds of the Zodiac, Jackdaw Lane, Littlegate, Mitranan, Campbell Road, Solar Event, Fortune & Fame, Marmalade Rib, Spacewalk, Penthouse, East Buttress.

Steve & Katja Broadbent February 2008 Cherwell Street, Isis, Osiris, Ears Between, Belvedere Road, Numa Numa, The Turf Tavern, Great Eastern.

Steve & Katja Broadbent Voodoo. Steve & Katja Broadbent The pair climbed this route as far as The Altar, where they discovered a peculiar collection of wicker ornaments and other eldritch artefacts, the origin of which is unknown. The final pitch was added by Topher Dagg & Henward Nind as Breaking Strain in 2010.

Y Mixi Mique. Steve & Katja Broadbent 'Y Mixi Mique' is a Berber phrase meaning ' little by little'.

The Morning After. Rob King & Seshadri Nadathur Home by Two, Bed by Twelve, Radio Sandwich. Aeron Buchanan & Caroline Culwick 245

Maison Rouge Sanctuary Lower Eagle Middle Eagle Upper Eagle Griffin Rock Anammer Crags Ksar Rock Azrol Aeromaine

Samazar – Overview Fortress

Sidi M'Zal

Safinah

(page XX)

(page XX)

Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Dragon Buttress

Samazar

(page XX)

To Samazar

Tagzene

Ait Yidr

Jebel Taskra

Tizirt

TANALT

4WD recommended

!

Agouti (page XX)

(page XX)

Tiz irt

Ro

ad

From Tafraoute

Igiliz Ogogn Tamdkrt Samazar

Talmst

Hairpins

Asner

Tanalt Ait Lghaz

Pimple Sermon Slabs

to Tafraoute via Tagmout

SAMAZAR AREA MAP

(page XX)

Sif Rock (page XX)

(page XX)

Aylim

(Great Rock) (page XX)

Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim Sif Rock Sermon Slabs Agouti Igiliz Dragon Buttress The Fortress Safinah

THE SAMAZAR VALLEY For any trad-climber, a drive along the Samazar 'road' is likely to be a memorable experience, and an adventure to these far-flung reaches of Jebel el Kest is one of the many great and varied experiences that await the firsttime visitor to Tafraoute. Here, beneath the towering, moss-covered and gigantic walls, climbers feel far from home, and the slightly unreliable rental car – your only lifeline to civilisation – feels ominously far from tarmac.

Welcome to Samazar!

This tremendous valley is home to some of the biggest rock walls in the Anti-Atlas. The character of most routes here is very different from that further south, and parties should be prepared for a fair amount of loose rock and vegetation on many of the routes. Most climbs are on north-facing walls, which can be out of condition during the winter months, but following a period of drought will provide memorable adventures that rank amongst the best in this book.

250

(page XX)

Amsloul Aguerd Cioch

Waterfall Walls

Whilst there are plenty of sustained and clean crag-climbs here, and even the odd southfacing sun-trap, this is the place to go for long, adventurous and slightly esoteric routes, many of which involve extensive sections of easy climbing with occasional harder pitches.

Despite their moderate technical difficulty, these climbs are usually major undertakings in a relatively remote environment, requiring plenty of big-route experience and a high level of commitment. Owing to the inadequacy of the UK adjectival grading system for such climbs, some routes here have been given an Alpine grade to describe the overall difficulty, as well as a UK technical grade for the hardest pitches.

The valley is correctly named the Tamza Valley, but at some point around 2008 the name was mis-remembered by western climbers as Samazar. Not wishing to let the truth get in the way of romance, the name Samazar has now been adopted. Sometimes referred to as Shangri-La, the valley lies immediately north of Afantinzar, and can be accessed from both

Samazar – Overview Aguerd Cioch

0m

(page XX)

Sidi M'Zal

1km

Idaougnidif

N

Afantinzar

Flatiron (page XX)

Tamza Wall East

Cromlech

Black Pyramid

(page XX)

(page XX)

(page XX)

Tamza Wall West

Samazar

Tamza River Slabs

Tagzene

(page XX)

Jebel Taskra

Tamza

(page XX)

SAMAZAR

Schoolhouse Junction

Rough track

Ighir

!

Sama

zar R

Valhalla Wall (page XX)

Gintrap TAG Wall ZE

(page XX) NE

Icebox Canyon

Agadir Tower

Finger & Afan tinza Thumb r Ro (page XX)

oad

ad

Anammer

(page XX)

to Idaougnidif and Tafraoute via Tarakatine

AFANTINZAR

(page XX)

see page XX for overview map Amsloul

ends – either via a very poor un-surfaced track turning off the Afantinzar road at Ighir, or more easily from Tanalt via the impressive Samazar Hairpins at the west end of the valley.

The drive from Tafraoute to Tamdkrt, through Tanalt and down the hairpins takes about 1½ hours, though many parties get hopelessly lost and end up somewhere totally different. Some are probably still to be found.

The drive along the full length of the Samazar Road, from Ighir in Afantinzar, past Tamza and Tamdakrt to Tanalt is possible in 2WD vehicles for most of the year, though care is required, particularly at the Ighir end.

This road is something of an adventure for those unaccustomed to taking cars where they're not supposed to go, and is definitely not recommended on wet days. There is no accommodation, shops or services in Samazar, though short-term bivouacs are possible close to the schoolhouse junction, midway down the valley.

The most prominent feature of the valley is an enormous north-facing wall, known as the Tamza Wall, which stretches from the Black Pyramid in the east to the Flatiron at its western end. Beyond this lie the daunting Waterfall Walls and the magnificent Great Rock (Aylim), which towers over the Samazar Hairpins. The crags are described from east to west, as although this is not the best direction of approach for the climbs around Tamdakrt it does aid identification of crags in front of the Tamza Wall. It is also a stunning, scenic approach that reveals these crags in their full glory.

Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim Sif Rock Sermon Slabs Agouti Igiliz Dragon Buttress The Fortress Safinah

251

Samazar – Icebox Canyon Sidi M'Zal

Map p250

MULTI PITCH

Idaougnidif Afantinzar

1:15

30m

YES

Hitch

NO

NO

Icebox Canyon

Approach: 30 minutes Aspect: North High altitude with lots of shade.

6

Samazar

NO

25

Speciality: Escape from the heat.

Area Map: Page 260

Tagzene

This superb north-facing wall, tucked away in a broad diagonal gully high on the Tamza Wall has become a justifiably popular destination for climbers operating in the upper grades, particularly during hot spells when this shady crag comes into its own. With a character similar to The Sanctuary in Afantinzar, the routes here are all serious and steep undertakings following audacious lines.

Jebel Taskra

Agadir Tower Tamza River Slabs Black Pyramid Tamza Wall East

The canyon can be approached from Samazar by parking half way (0.8km) between the Tamza turn-off and the Aguerd (school house) turn-off, from where it is visible as a diagonal gully at the top of the Tamza Wall. A less steep alternative, however, is to approach from Afantinzar, from where the canyon is easily reached in about 15 minutes. Park on the Afantinzar road above Anammer, just before the hairpins leading up to the high col at the top of the valley. From here it is a short walk to a notch on the skyline to the northwest (shown below), where a steep Berber trail leads down into the canyon.

The Cromlech Icebox Canyon Tamza Wall West Flatiron Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls

Descent from routes on the main Icebox wall can be made by walking leftwards and scrambling back down to the notch.

Pimple Aylim

Top of the Box

Sif Rock

The first routes are located on subsidiary buttresses at the top of the canyon, just next to the bottom of the steep descent from the approach notch.

Sermon Slabs Agouti

1. Sunset Crack E1 5c

Igiliz

CRACK

30m. In the bay to the left, and slightly

Dragon Buttress

higher than Crank and Go is a prominent crack leading to an arĂŞte, which is followed to the top.

The Fortress Safinah

Enjoying the shade on Peanut (HVS 5a) in Icebox Canyon. Page 262 Photo by Katja Broadbent

260

1:15

30

NO

YES

Hitch

NO

NO

Map p250

Samazar – Icebox Canyon Sidi M'Zal

Top of the Box SHADE

Idaougnidif

10m

Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

3

2

Agadir Tower Tamza River Slabs

1

2. Crank and Go E3 6a

Black Pyramid

Top of the Box

BOLD

40m. A difficult and bold lead. Start on the

SHADE

raised ledge on the front of the buttress and climb a crack with difficulty. Step left and climb up to a ledge, finishing up a bold wall above.

Tamza Wall East The Cromlech

10m

Icebox Canyon Tamza Wall West

3. Powered by Ibuprofen HVS big corner. Climb the groove until a step left gains a crack. Follow this and the groove above to a ledge, stepping right here to finish up the off-width crack.

The next route is on a steep east-facing wall overlooking the descent from the approach notch.

Descent from routes

Flatiron

4

30m. Start at a small groove just left of the

Amsloul

STEEP

4. Sail Away E3 5c

45m. A good climb, despite some hollow

rock, taking the zigzag crack. Start from the right and climb along under the lowest roof to gain the crack system. Follow this to the final overhang then move up into a slight groove to the right of the upper arête. Go up this to finish on the arête itself.

Approach notch

Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim Sif Rock Sermon Slabs Agouti Igiliz Dragon Buttress The Fortress Safinah

261

Map p250

Samazar – Icebox Canyon

1:15

30m

NO

YES

Sidi M'Zal

NO

Hitch

NO

Icebox Wall left

Idaougnidif Afantinzar

SHADE

15m

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

5

Agadir Tower

6

Tamza River Slabs Black Pyramid Tamza Wall East

7

The Cromlech

8 10

9

Icebox Canyon

11

Tamza Wall West Flatiron Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim Sif Rock Sermon Slabs Agouti Igiliz Dragon Buttress The Fortress Safinah

Icebox Wall

2) 25m (5a) Pull leftwards through the overhang

The huge vertical wall overlooking the upper part of the gully is an intimidating piece of rock with some stunning climbs on it...

on big holds and climb up right to a mossy exit onto the terrace to the right of the tree.

3) 25m (4b) Finish leftwards up the gully.

Photo page 260

STEEP

5. Alto Blanco E1 5b

7. Polar Bear E1 5b

75m. This route starts 30m up from the foot

90m. Starts about 30m left of the orange

MOSSY

of the subsidiary ramp where Polar Bear starts.

1) 45m (5a) Climb a short flake to gain a line of pale lumps leading to a small right-facing corner in the overhangs. Pull up this and continue to a tree belay.

2) 30m (5b) Move up left to a higher ledge then power through the bulge rightwards to the arĂŞte. Climb up this before stepping left to a finish up vague grooves.

corner, where a ramp abuts the base of the wall.

1) 55m (5b) From an angular niche above the foot of the ramp move left onto the wall and climb up to a crack. Swing right then go up past numerous spikes to a ledge.

2) 35m (5a) Climb the black wall until it is possible to traverse right into the fine open groove / chimney.

6. Peanut HVS 5a

8. North East Passage E4 6a

STEEP

MOSSY

80m. A fine and popular wall climb that meanders its way up the pale pillar, giving excellent steep climbing, marred slightly by a mossy finish.

1) 30m (4c) Start from a rake below the wall, climbing rightwards to cross a bulge and gain the white streak. Follow this to a ledge beneath a nose in the overlap 262

100m. The orange and black crack-line

provides three superb and demanding pitches (6a, 5c, 5b)

9. Icebreaker E3 5c

100m. Stunning climbing up the steep crack 10m right of the prominent orange corner.

Start below flakes just left of the crackline

1:15

30m

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

NO

Map p250

Samazar – Icebox Canyon

(about 6m right of the orange corner).

1) 55m (5c) Climb up and slightly left to the black crack until after 10m it is possible to traverse right to gain the main crack. Continue up this, and the groove above, then trend up right through a steep bulge to gain ledges.

2) 45m (5b) Go up the wall then traverse beneath the black streak to an open groove.

Climb this past a ledge then through a weakness in the upper steepening.

10. Electric Kool Aid Acid Test E2 5b

BOLD

105m. A bold climb up an incipient crack line,

Climb steep ground until it is possible to regain the crack, which is followed to a tricky finish up a steep little wall.

STEEP

13. Pushing 70 E2 5b

140m. An uncompromising wall climb.

1) 30m (5b) Climb a smooth wall to a ledge.

2) 20m (5b) Move up left then steeply back

right to another ledge.

3) 35m (5a) Easier ground leads to another large ledge.

4) 30m (5a) Go left and climb a loose orange corner before stepping back right to finish as for Black Gold.

breaking through the overhangs above.

1) 20m (5a) Go up a groove to reach the left end of a flake. Traverse the flake then go straight up to a belay on a sloping ledge.

2) 30m (5b) Climb a steep crack for 10m then more easily rightwards to a corner. Traverse left under the roof before finishing back right up a loose corner through the overhangs.

3) 55m (4a) The easiest line to the top.

130m. A direct eliminate starting up black cracks left of Bitter Days, and resisting the easier cracks to the left. 4 pitches direct to the top (5b, 5b, 5b, 5a)

11. Arctic Char E2 5b

110m. A direct line up the centre of the wall.

1) 30m (5a) Follow a vague left-slanting

95m. Start right of EKAAT at a boulder step.

1) (5b) Climb to obvious hollow flake then step up to a vague crackline which leads to a ledge.

2) (5a) Climb up to the overhang and cross it as for EKAAT, then follow easy groove to top.

STEEP

12. And The Nectar E1 5b

110m. Good climbing on perfect rock. Start

at a small pinnacle by a flat boulder. Traverse right along a ledge to step across the crack.

14. Never Never Land E2 5b

Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Agadir Tower Tamza River Slabs Black Pyramid Tamza Wall East The Cromlech

15. Bitter Days HVS 5a

groove to a ledge beneath a black groove.

2) 60m (4c) Go up the groove to its top, then step right into an orange groove to another ledge.

3) 30m (4c) Trend left to gain a final groove close to the arĂŞte.

16. Black Gold HVS 5a

Sidi M'Zal

BOLD

120m. Takes the next black streak, breaking left up the wall at the top.

Icebox Canyon Tamza Wall West Flatiron Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple

Approach notch

Aylim Sif Rock Sermon Slabs

2

Agouti

6

Igiliz

8

Icebox Canyon SHADE

15m

9

Dragon Buttress

10 15

The Fortress

17

Safinah

19

20

263

Map p250

Samazar – Icebox Canyon Sidi M'Zal

1:15

30m

NO

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Icebox Wall right

Idaougnidif

SHADE

Afantinzar

15m

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Agadir Tower

20 9

Tamza River Slabs

10 11 12

Black Pyramid

13 14 15

Tamza Wall East

17 16

18 19

The Cromlech Icebox Canyon Tamza Wall West Flatiron Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim Sif Rock Sermon Slabs

1) 10m (4c) Climb up to a belay below the

left-hand of two black cracks.

2) 35m (5a) Follow the left-hand crack to a ledge (junction with Bitter Days).

3) 50m (4c) Continue up Bitter Days for 10m until it is possible to climb leftwards, boldly across the black wall.

4) 25m (4c) The wall above to easier ground.

left-hand crack. Go up to a small overlap at 30m then step right using incut holds to gain the right-hand crack to a good ledge.

2) 40m (5b) Climb the crack and groove then go slightly left to gain a large undercut flake.

Follow this rightwards to a stance.

3) 30m (5a) Climb a big flake to a pedestal before moving left to finish up a chimney.

17. Arctic Monkey E3 5c

18. Monkey Business E2 5b

110m. A direct line between the central

120m. This rather poor climb starts up steep

and left-hand black streaks, giving one of the best climbs hereabouts. Start by some large boulders below a short groove.

1) 40m (5c) Climb the groove to a ledge with a large detached spike. Wander up the wall above past numerous Icebox chicken heads to gain the Canyon page XX

rock right of Arctic Monkey until a blank wall forces an escape left onto that route. An independent finish heads rightwards to a final groove. 4 Pitches (4c, 5a, 5b, 4c) SoverzĂŠne Buttress page XX

Agouti Igiliz

Lower Icebox Buttress

Dragon Buttress The Fortress

page XX

Safinah

1

264

1:15

30m

NO

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p250

Samazar – Icebox Canyon / Tamza West

STEEP

19. Ice Tea E1 5b

BOLD

200m. A meandering route up the right side of the wall. Climb up to beneath the orange overhangs, from where a bold traverse rightwards leads to a stance under a bulge.

Move back left through very steep rock and into a slim groove. This gives an excellent finish to easier ground.

MULTI PITCH

Tamza Wall West

Sidi M'Zal

Approach: 15 - 30 minutes Aspect: North Lots of shade on north-facing white quartzite. Often mossy.

6

25

starting from a scree-covered level area. Go up the easy left-slanting ramp then move left around the arête (loose rock above). Climb steep black rock to a groove through the even steeper ground above. Climb this, moving right to finish up the arête at the top.

Lower Icebox Buttress This is vertical orange and black wall at the base of Icebox Canyon. It is approached in approximately 10 minutes from the Samazar road, where there is parking for a single car just after the riverbed.

21. The Scott-Grimes E4 6a

GEAR

ABSEIL

30m. The soaring crack line on the left side

of the face, just right of a shattered red corner.

22. Breaking Bad E3 6a

GEAR

ABSEIL

25m. The next crack to the right leads to a

rightward-sloping ramp line, and gives some hard but well-protected climbing. Teeter along the ramp and finish up the wide crack to a ledge at the right side of the face.

Scoraig Buttress

Afantinzar

Samazar

Speciality: Big adventure-climbs Area Map: Page XX

Tagzene

20. Long and Winding Road E1 5b

200m. Another meandering adventure,

Idaougnidif

Immediately right (west) of Icebox Canyon the Tamza Wall rises into a series of impressive buttresses, which tower above an isolated schoolhouse just above a junction in the track. These huge crags offer some remote, adventurous climbs that have seen very few ascents.

Jebel Taskra

Agadir Tower Tamza River Slabs Black Pyramid

Soverzéne Buttress

Tamza Wall East

The most easterly of three large buttresses, this sombre, north-facing mossy wall holds the following adventure.

The Cromlech

Descent is via a long walk leftwards to the top of Icebox Canyon.

BOLD

195m. A good but bold route following the

wall just left of the obvious S-shaped chimney groove. Scramble rightwards up the ramp to start just left of an orange overhang.

1) 60m (4c) Climb the dark water streak to a big block on the ledge, left of the foot of the S-shaped chimney.

2) 40m (-) Follow the ramp rightwards to a tree in the corner. Belay as high as possible.

page XX

Tamza Wall West Flatiron

1. Claymore ED E4 5c

Accessible Pinnacle

Icebox Canyon

Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim

The Flatiron

Sif Rock

page XX

Sermon Slabs

page XX

Agouti Igiliz Dragon Buttress The Fortress Safinah

265

Map p250

Samazar – The Aguerd Cioch Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif

MULTI PITCH

Afantinzar

Jebel Taskra

Agadir Tower Tamza River Slabs Black Pyramid Tamza Wall East The Cromlech Icebox Canyon Tamza Wall West Flatiron Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim Sif Rock Sermon Slabs Agouti

Approach: 5 - 15 minutes Aspect: South Lots of sunshine on good clean rock.

25

Speciality: Isolated multi-pitch routes in a wild setting.

Area Map: Page XX

Tagzene

15m

YES

NO

NO

Hitch

NO

1. Lavender Very Difficult

The Aguerd Cioch

6

Samazar

1:40

This crag is one of only a handful of southfacing outcrops in Samazar, so tends to be less lichenous than many of the valley's outcrops, with a character similar to that of neighbouring Afantinzar. The Cioch is situated on a distant hillside to the north of the Schoolhouse junction, reached via an exciting track that makes the Samazar road look like a major highway. For climbers based in Tafraout, therefore, the Aguerd Cioch represents the most remote climbing the range has to offer.

To approach, turn north off the Samazar Road at a large ruin about 1.5km west of the Tamza turnoff. Follow the track, passing a school and onwards through a notch to a small junction on a col. The left fork leads down steep hairpins to Aguerd n'Ouzrou and is not recommended in 2WD vehicles. The right fork leads up a hair-raising track to the back of beyond, and is not recommended in anything. Thankfully, parking (and more importantly the chance to turn around) is available at the junction.

To descend from these climbs walk over the top of the crag and head east to return to the road.

85m. Very pleasant climbing up the curved

ridge, with good rock and fine positions throughout – a real treat at this grade. Start by scrambling up through a dead tree to a ledge.

1) 45m (-) Good climbing up the ridge to a large ledge.

2) 40m (-) Step left and climb the centre of the excellent wall on good holds. Continue more easily above, via whichever line takes your fancy! Photo pages 15 and 268

Main Buttress The majority of the routes are located on a large, dome-shaped buttress that sits above the junction on the col, from where a straightforward approach is made by traversing the hillside along a small trail that leaves the road just below the junction.

2. Copperhead HVS 5a

90m. A good climb up the west face of the

buttress, starting up a pinnacle just right of a recess with a walled-in tree.

1) 30m (4c) Go up the obvious wide crack in the left side of the pinnacle, then climb the cracked face to a ledge with another large crack above.

2) 30m (5a) From the left end of the ledge climb a large corner, trending left to an overlap. Pull through this on good crimps and finish up a short

The West Buttress The more gently-angled West Buttress is located to the left of the main crag, and is reached in approximately 15 minutes by traversing the hillside from the base of the main buttress.

Igiliz Dragon Buttress The Fortress Safinah

1

West Buttress 15m

274

1:40

10m

YES

NO

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p250

Samazar – The Aguerd Cioch

splitter crack to a large ledge, with excellent horizontal breaks for protection.

3) 30m (5a) Follow the cracked face diagonally rightwards to gain a ramp, which leads left then right to large blocks.

Sidi M'Zal

4

5

Idaougnidif Afantinzar

3. The Fin E2 5c

Samazar

95m. The obvious corner below the huge

nose at the top of the cliff.

1) 45m (4c) Climb a shallow right-facing corner to belay below a bulge.

2) 25m (5c) Go up the wall and chimney to a bulge, and bridge up to easier climbing past a white fin on the right. Step rightwards onto the fin and follow it to a belay.

3) 25m (4b) Continue up the crack line to finish right of the huge nose.

South Face

Tagzene Jebel Taskra

10m

Agadir Tower Tamza River Slabs Black Pyramid

4. Captain Hornblower HVS 5b

Tamza Wall East

70m. Starts just to the right of the main steep

face, directly above the first hairpin bend.

1) 30m (4c) Follow the crack and corner to the 2nd leftward ramp. Go up this onto the face, then move up until a 5m traverse right leads to a ledge.

2) 40m (5b) Go directly up from the ledge, through a tricky but well-protected overlap into a crack-line that runs directly to the top, passing the small bush to its right.

5. Thyme is on our Side HVS 5a

85m. The right fork of the central corner,

starting as for the previous route.

1&2) 60m (5a) Climb the corner to belay beneath the large open chimney.

3) 25m (5a) Go up the chimney, pulling around the right-hand side at the top and finishing up a crack above.

The Cromlech

East Face

6

Icebox Canyon

10m

4

Tamza Wall West Flatiron

6. Scarborough Fair HVS 5a

70m. The most obvious groove on the east

face, starting just left of an off-width chimney.

1) 35m (5a) Climb the right-hand flake crack, then move up a groove. Step right at a prickly pear and follow the continuation groove to a stance on the right.

2) 35m (4b) Take the left fork of the groove to finish just left of a small roof. Descend to the right.

Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim Sif Rock

4

Sermon Slabs

5

Agouti Igiliz Dragon Buttress

Main Buttress

The Fortress Safinah

2

3

10m

275

Samazar – Aylim, The Great Rock Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Agadir Tower Tamza River Slabs Black Pyramid Tamza Wall East The Cromlech Icebox Canyon Tamza Wall West Flatiron Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim Sif Rock Sermon Slabs Agouti Igiliz Dragon Buttress The Fortress Safinah

Map p250

1:40

20m

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

The South Buttress

4) 30m (4a) A superb pitch up the steep

The South Buttress is the slightly lower, left side of the East Face, below a major notch in the South Ridge. Easy, low-commitment routes are a rare thing in Samazar, so the following climbs are highly recommended for parties looking for some low-grade multi-pitch adventures. The rock is excellent throughout, so it's a good place to head for a 'gentle' introduction to the big Samazar routes...

4. Thunder Rib Severe

The approach is as for the East Face, which is described on the next page.

From the top of the routes it is easy to scramble over the South Ridge to the lower part of the South Gully descent (see next page).

2. Sunny Side Up Severe 4b

180m. The centre of the slabby South

Buttress is the first of three superb low-grade routes. The line is rather vague, and although the climbing is mostly easier than on its two counterparts, it requires some route-finding skills and is perhaps slightly less classic.

1) 50m (4b) Climb the gully left of a slab for about 8m, then move right onto the slab.

Climb up to an overlap, and traverse right beneath it to gain a slab left of the arĂŞte.

2) 50m (-) Continue straight up on good rock to a block belay.

3) 40m (-) Continue straight up to a ledge at 30m, then climb up left of a bush.

4) 40m (-) Easier climbing to the top.

3. Serengeti Severe 4b

180m. Excellent juggy climbing up the clean

rib at the right side of the South Buttress, providing a superb day that is technically the hardest of the trio, but arguably the best.

1) 45m (4b) Start up the back of a vague gully at the left side of the Organ Pipes, heading for a weakness in the small overhang above. Pull through this via a difficult but well-protected move, then follow easier ground to a good spike belay.

2) 45m (4a) Continue up the excellent black rib at the left side of the slabs to a shady niche, right of the large roof. Move up, then traverse the side wall leftwards to gain the front of the fine rib. Follow this to a small stance.

3) 30m (-) Continue up the excellent rib to belay by a bush beneath steeper ground.

292

orange buttress, via a shallow groove on its left side. Continue to a comfortable belay ledge.

5) 30m (-) Easy climbing up the final section of Thunder Rib.

180m. Very good, clean climbing up the right

side of the South Buttress, with good variety and excellent rock throughout. A big outing at this grade.

1) 50m Start from a series of ribs (the Organ Pipes), and take the central rib to a good flat ledge below a prominent black slab.

2) 45m Climb up the rib on the right side of the black slab via some good but bold moves.

Belay beneath a pale steep wall.

3) 35m Step left at the initial steepening then make an excellent traverse up left on the second steep wall to gain easy steps up a groove on the left side of the rib. Follow this to an easy step right at a perched block to gain the crest of the rib. Excellent friction climbing then leads to a belay below the right side of a steep orange tower.

4) 50m Climb steep white rock up the right side of the tower to gain a notch on the ridge crest. Follow the crest more easily to easy scrambling. Photo below

Caroline Culwick enjoying a superb day out on Thunder Rib (Severe) on Aylim's South Buttress.

1:40

YES

20m

YES

Hitch

NO

NO

Map p250

Samazar – Aylim, The Great Rock

st

Ea

G

Idaougnidif

ly ul

Afantinzar

6

20m

r we Lo

AM

Samazar Tagzene

id ge

South Buttress

Sidi M'Zal

Echo Ledge

5

Th eG

re at R

Jebel Taskra

the Organ Pipes

4

7

Tamza River Slabs

r

h lis

Agadir Tower

la Pil

Tamza Wall East

Knight's Peak

3

Po

Black Pyramid

The Cromlech Icebox Canyon

Black Slab

Tamza Wall West

The Finger

Flatiron

2

Amsloul Aguerd Cioch

South Buttress

Summit of South Buttress

Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim Sif Rock Sermon Slabs Agouti Igiliz Dragon Buttress The Fortress Safinah

293

Samazar – Aylim, The Great Rock Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Agadir Tower Tamza River Slabs Black Pyramid Tamza Wall East The Cromlech Icebox Canyon Tamza Wall West Flatiron Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim Sif Rock Sermon Slabs Agouti Igiliz Dragon Buttress The Fortress Safinah

6. The Free Blast Severe the lower Central Buttress provides the easiest means of accessing the large 'Echo Ledge' from where the next two routes diverge. Start at an obvious right-trending weakness at the left side of black slabs, some 20m left of a large flat-topped pinnacle that abuts the face (East Gully Tower).

1) 30m Work up right to a block belay.

2) 35m Easy rocks trending left to a small stance.

3-5) 100m Continue up the easiest line to a huge ledge (Echo Ledge) at the foot of the vegetated Upper East Gully.

STEEP

PRICKLY

CRACK

400m. A superb adventure, despite some

vegetation in its middle section. The narrow pillar to the left of Upper East Gully is not quite as long as the neighbouring East Face Direct, but what it lacks in length it more than makes up for in steepness, difficulty, and exposure, with a number of delightful overhanging crack-pitches. All difficulties are very well protected, but the route is a serious undertaking, with few escape options.

1-5) 165m (-) Climb to Echo Ledge via The Free Blast.

6) 35m (5b) The white pillar off the left side of the ledge is a superbly positioned and challenging pitch. Move left to gain a crack up the front of the pillar, and climb it until a few moves on the right face gain an overhanging final crack to a small summit.

7) 33m (4c) Enjoyable climbing up the narrow left-hand flake crack to a vegetated sloping belay.

8) 32m (-) A poor pitch... go straight up cracks then fight through vegetation to gain a notch in the ridge. Cross over to the left side and clamber past a large tree to a ledge on the side of the deep gully.

9) 30m (4c) Climb the chimney and flake in the back of the gully, exiting left to a good ledge and tree.

10) 20m (5a) Go up and right to gain an overhanging crack. There is a poor hanging stance above the steepest section, or it is possible to link this with the next pitch...

11) 25m (4c) The continuation of the overhanging crack has some sensational bridging in a commanding position, high on the pillar.

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12) 30m (4b) Climb the crack in the front of

165m (to Echo Ledge). The slabby, left side of

7. Polish Pillar D E1 5b

Map p250

the narrow brown buttress.

13) 30m (-) Progressively easier climbing to gain the South Ridge, from where 70m of scrambling leads to the summit of Knight’s Peak.

STEEP

8. East Face Direct AD+ HVS 5a

450m. Adventurous, committing and sustained, the East Face Direct is a classic of its grade and a major undertaking. The route takes a logical line up the face, just right of the Upper East Gully. Almost every pitch above Echo Ledge is severe or harder and with the exception of the Black Groove pitch the rock is generally very good.

1-5) 165m (-) The Free Blast.

6) 20m Move up to a higher ledge on the right beneath steeper ground.

7) 30m (4c) Climb a steep black groove on some questionable rock.

8-9) 60m Work left up easier ground staying close to the large vegetated gully.

10) 30m Trend back right into a vegetated niche.

11) 25m Climb the right wall of the niche to a higher ledge below steeper ground.

12) 30m (5a) The steep crack is the crux of the route, and leads to a good ledge.

13) 20m Up left to another ledge.

14) 30m Climb the right wall then continue up excellent rock in a fine position.

15) 40m Gradually easing ground to the summit of Knight’s Peak. Photo page 289 9. Central Buttress – The Direct Route D E1 5b

475m. The ‘magic’ line of Aylim’s East Face

gives a first-class climb of continual interest, and is one of Tafraoute’s greatest mountain routes. The climb is intricate, exposed, and remarkably clean, providing continuous VS climbing with a handful of steep cruxes - The Culwick Overhang, the 5a groove, and the sensational Cracked Pillar being highlights of what is likely to be a memorable day’s climbing. All of the difficult sections are avoidable, making this route an incredible opportunity to push your grade a thousand feet above the valley floor! The route starts at a prominent pinnacle (East Gully Tower) which abuts the East Face, about 10-15 minutes from

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Samazar – Aylim, The Great Rock East Face Centre

Cracked Pillar Tremendous overhanging crack up tower

P11 P10

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif

15m

Afantinzar

Alternative topo on page XX

Samazar

P9

Tagzene

P8

P7b

Jebel Taskra

Upp

The Fresh-Air Traverse

ast G er E

Agadir Tower

P7

Tamza River Slabs

P7

ully

Black Pyramid Tamza Wall East

P6 Echo Ledge

The Cromlech

Tamza Wall West

ess uttr

lly Gu ast rE we Lo

P5

Icebox Canyon

B tral Cen The

8

7

Flatiron Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall

The Culwick Overhang

Waterfall Walls Pimple

P4

Aylim Sif Rock

P3

Sermon Slabs Agouti

G st

Ea

P2

er ow yT

ull

Igiliz Dragon Buttress The Fortress

P1

Safinah

9 6

10

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Samazar – Aylim, The Great Rock

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Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Agadir Tower Tamza River Slabs Black Pyramid Tamza Wall East The Cromlech Icebox Canyon Tamza Wall West Flatiron Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim Sif Rock Sermon Slabs Agouti Igiliz Dragon Buttress The Fortress Safinah

Katja Broadbent on the first ascent of one of Tafraout's greatest adventures...

Labyrinth Ridge (VS 5a)

North East Face - Main Summit The huge stacked flakes of the north face rise steeply above the Samazar Hairpins, bounded on the left by the long classic Labyrinth Ridge, which forms the right wall of the prominent Central Gully. Labyrinth Ridge provides the only known line of ascent to the true summit from this side, making it a highly sought-after tick, and a significantly longer proposition than neighbouring Great Ridge.

To descend from the summit continue over the summit plateau and descend into a small notch on the southwest side. Turn right (west) and go down a narrow gully (some short down-climbs) to the bottom of Fig Tree Wall, from where terraces lead back to the top of the Samazar Hairpins. A good path then heads straight back down east to the bottom of the hairpins.

302

14. Labyrinth Ridge AD+ VS 5a

ADVENTURE

800m. Another tremendous route, and one

of the biggest and most sought-after climbs of its grade in the region, providing a full complement of mountain challenges that will test even the most competent of parties.

This route's status as one of the longest in the Anti-Atlas makes up for some isolated sections of questionable rock, on which care is required.

The initial narrow ridge involves large amounts of easy scrambling over which speed is of the essence, before things take a sinister turn with some fine adventurous climbing on the steep headwall. In total there are about 20 pitches and 800m of climbing, providing a memorable and tiring day out that is comparable in length with Asgaour's Great Ridge. Photo above, and pages 335 & 339

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Samazar – Aylim, The Great Rock A) The route starts easily, gaining and

The Priest Bold step off tower

The Priest

following a narrow crest of immaculate white quartzite for about 4 pitches to a short steep step. This is climbed at about Severe, before more easy scrambling (now mostly on the left side) leads to the Watch Tower, with a cairn and stone shelter on its summit. Avoid the Watch Tower on its left side to gain a notch. Escape into Central Gully is possible from most parts of this section.

Crux 5a wall out of niche

The Hidden Niche

B) A steep pitch from the notch is a sign

The Grey Pillar

of increasing difficulties and growing commitment. The Central Ribs offer a variety of options, but feature some bold climbing on suspect rock. Then, after a short walk, the ridge steepens again. Take a chimney on the left side of a narrow grey pillar, stepping left onto an excellent solid face in a fine position. This leads to the start of the headwall, at about 480m.

Chimney left of Grey Pillar

C)

The headwall is tackled trending rightwards initially, to a hidden belay in a vegetated alcove after a couple of pitches.

The left wall out of the alcove is the technical crux of the route, with some good 5a climbing in a superb position. This gains an unfortunate tower, forcing a traverse leftwards.

Central Ribs (bold) Hidden pitch up steep crack

Easy traverse round left side of Watchtower

D) Traverse left past vegetation to gain

The Watchtower

easier looking ground. This eventually leads to an even more unfortunate tower, with apparently no escape (The Priest). The tower is separated from the main face by a gap of about 2m, and ingenuity must be used to gain the wide crack in the wall behind. This can be free climbed strenuously at about 5b, but some pulling on gear makes the move a little more approachable (A0 & 4c).

E) Sustained scrambling and walking over false summits, with a few short pitches leads to an final tricky chimney right below the main summit.

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Agadir Tower Tamza River Slabs Black Pyramid Tamza Wall East The Cromlech Icebox Canyon Tamza Wall West Flatiron Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim Sif Rock Sermon Slabs Agouti Igiliz

14

Dragon Buttress

Labyrinth Ridge AM

The Fortress Safinah

3m

Overview Page XX

303

Map p250

Samazar – Dragon Buttress Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif

MULTI PITCH

Afantinzar

Samazar

Agadir Tower Tamza River Slabs Black Pyramid Tamza Wall East The Cromlech Icebox Canyon Tamza Wall West Flatiron Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls

Approach: 15 minutes Aspect: North Shade for much of the day. Some lichen on some of the routes, but the magnificent central pillar catches sunshine in the afternoon.

25

Speciality: Typical north-facing white quartzite and a handfull of magnificent multi-pitch climbs.

Area Map: Page XX

Jebel Taskra

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Despite a myriad of highly-starred routes, this is a north-facing crag, and climbers in search of carefree romps in the sunshine will be disappointed. Almost all of the climbs here are in the upper grades and hold a fair amount of vegetation. Add to that the fact that most of them don't look particularly welcoming, and you've got a crag that will suit only the confident and adventurous climber – and for them it is a destination not to be missed, particularly on hot days when it gives plenty of welcome shade.

Dragon Buttress

6

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Two approaches are possible, though the southern one is slightly easier.

Southern Approach: This is probably the shortest, but the crag remains invisible until the last minute. Park on the Samazar Road, just west of a large shop, close to the Ogogn turnoff. A vague path runs north, slightly downhill, towards a pink house. Pass this, then contour left to a ruined building, just above which is a notch that gives access to the north face.

Anyone climbing on Safinah or the Fortress during the late afternoon cannot help but notice a stunning, sword-like tower to the south, glowing in the afternoon sun. This is Dragon Buttress – an adventure-trad dream, hiding in full view right in the middle of Samazar. From the south, of course, Dragon Buttress gives little away, appearing as a minor peak with little of interest to the climber, perhaps other than a useful vantage point to survey the larger crags under which it stands.

Northern Approach: Drive through Ogogn and continue past the parking for Safinah and the Fortress. The third hairpin is actually a junction – turn sharp left and park somewhere along this track (preferably not at the house at the end). Walk past the house, from where a variety of small paths run down towards a watercourse. Dragon Buttress is clearly visible beyond.

The first reference to this crag was on an old hand-drawn map in the Livre d'Escalade at the Amandiers Hotel, on which it was titled 'Tel Sagheer', or 'The Little Peak', but it was not until 2012 that two independent teams discovered the climbing potential of the north face, and the name 'Dragon Buttress' was adopted.

Pimple Aylim Sif Rock

Main Buttress

Sermon Slabs Agouti

Notch Buttress

Igiliz

Fanghur Buttress

page XX

page XX

page XX

Dragon Buttress

Samazar Road

South Approach

The Fortress Safinah

North Approach

316

Looking south towards Dragon Buttress from Safinah.

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Samazar – Dragon Buttress Sidi M'Zal

30m

Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Agadir Tower

3

Tamza River Slabs

1

Black Pyramid

Notch Buttress SHADE

Tamza Wall East

2

10m

The Cromlech

5

Icebox Canyon

4

Tamza Wall West

The Notch Buttress

Flatiron

This is the first buttress reached when approaching the crag from the south, holding a handful of good pitches that stay in the shade during the hottest part of the day.

1. Dragon Arête HVS 5a

Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall

BOLD

Waterfall Walls

35m. The leftmost arête of the buttress gives a good pitch with some bold moves low down.

Step off a boulder and climb a flake crack to the bulge, which is surmounted on good holds.

Pimple Aylim

2. Dragonfly VS 4c

Sif Rock

30m. The left-facing corner. Exit right at

Sermon Slabs

the top, then move up steeply left through a weakness.

Agouti

3. Ochre Slab HVS 5a

Igiliz

30m. The crack on the right side of the arête

Dragon Buttress

is gained from Dragonfly. At the top of the crack, step right and climb the slab to a spike, finishing up another crack above.

The Fortress Safinah

Will Benfold making the difficult moves to enter the superb corner of Brisingr (E1). Page 324

317

Samazar – Dragon Buttress Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Agadir Tower Tamza River Slabs Black Pyramid Tamza Wall East The Cromlech Icebox Canyon Tamza Wall West Flatiron Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim Sif Rock Sermon Slabs Agouti Igiliz Dragon Buttress The Fortress Safinah

4) 50m (-) Continue more easily to the top of the tower.

5) 30m (-) Scrambling to the summit.

15. Bad Breath E1 5b

180m. The white rib up the left side of the front face has an off-putting start but with some fine climbing above. Start at a prominent off-width crack in an orange corner.

1) 30m (5b) Climb the corner to a difficult exit.

2) 30m (4c) Follow the open groove above to a good stance.

3) 40m (4c) Move left to gain a black groove, which leads to easier ground.

4) 30m (4a) Continue directly to a comfortable ledge.

5) 50m (-) Easier climbing and scrambling to gain the summit ridge.

16. Gorillas in the Mist HVS 5a

200m. A rather dirty start gives way to some good climbing higher up. Start 10m right of Bad Breath at a short, thin crack.

1) 45m (5a) Climb the thin crack for 8m, then traverse leftwards past vegetation to gain a groove. Go up this, passing a bulge before stepping right to a black groove. Belay on a stance a few metres below a square-cut corner.

2) 60m (5a) Take the rib to the right of the corner and then follow a wall up and slightly rightwards to a ledge with a huge block (possible belay). A tricky move up left gains a flake crack which leads to a chimney stance.

3) 45m (5a) Pull up into the steep, leaning groove, then undercut right into another groove. Move right again to climb a pleasant slab to a ledge, about 5m left of the tree-filled gully.

4) 50m (4b) Climb a crack to gain the ridge, which is followed easily to the top.

17. The Missing Links E2 5c

200m. A tremendous and varied route,

forging a direct line up the golden pillar. Start 20m left of Brisingr beneath a shallow groove.

1) 35m (5b) Climb the groove to gain a brown flake, then follow a ramp up leftwards to a spike. Trend right up the slab above to the rake on Monkey Island.

2) 50m (4c) Climb the wall to the right of the wide crack, straight up to the pinnacle on Brisingr.

322

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3) 55m (5c) Make a committing step off the

top of the pinnacle to gain the arête above (the left arête of the big corner on Brisingr).

Climb this to a stance beneath the overhang.

4) 60m (5a) Climb a flake up left to the roof, then pull around its left side into grooves, leading to a ledge and possible belay. Finish up the arête above.

18. Fantasia E1 5b

185m. Outstanding climbing up the left side

of the golden pillar, though with a dirty first pitch. Start 6m right of The Missing Links below a thin crack.

1) 30m (5a) Climb the crack using holds on the right, trending left to a chimney. Take the right rib of the chimney to gain the vegetated ledge system, following it leftwards to a belay as for The Missing Links.

2) 50m (5a) Climb the big flake, passing the overlap on its right side to gain a flake crack up the centre of the buttress. Belay at the pinnacle.

3) 45m (5b) Climb the slabby left side of the pinnacle and follow a fine hand-crack and chimney above, through an overhang and up left to a good stance.

4) 60m (5b) Step left and climb up a flake groove. A short wall on the right then leads up past the left side of the upper overhangs 2m left of The Missing Links. Continue pleasantly above.

19. Monkey Island VS 5a

180m. The central rib up the front face has

some good positions and steep climbing, but requires some care to follow the best line. Start at a wild boar den, as for Brisingr.

1) 40m (4b) Climb the excellent pale rib up left from the den. At the top, make a tricky step down leftwards past vegetation, then climb the continuation ramp to a ledge above the tree, with a wide crack running up the right wall.

2) 20m (4b) Carry on up the ramp for a few more moves, then step back right into the wide crack. Follow this to a boulder belay.

3) 30m (5a) Boulder up the slabby wall at the back of the ledge to gain a high crack. Climb this and trend up left to a vegetated groove.

At the top of this is a platform, from where an exposed stride left gains the pillar left of the

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Map p250

Samazar – Dragon Buttress Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene

28

Jebel Taskra

Agadir Tower

27

Tamza River Slabs

26

Black Pyramid

24

25

Tamza Wall East The Cromlech

22

23

Icebox Canyon

19

Flatiron Amsloul

17

18

20

21

Tamza Wall West

Aguerd Cioch

a

Gintrap Wall

15

16

Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim Sif Rock Sermon Slabs

12

Agouti Igiliz

15m

The Fortress Safinah

8

SHADE

Dragon Buttress

Dragon Buttress

323

Map p250

Samazar – Safinah

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Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Agadir Tower Tamza River Slabs Black Pyramid Tamza Wall East The Cromlech Icebox Canyon Tamza Wall West Flatiron Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls Pimple Aylim Sif Rock Sermon Slabs Agouti Igiliz Dragon Buttress The Fortress Safinah

3. Goldrush Dihedral E1 5b

PRICKLY

270m. A superb line up the massive dihedral

up the left side of the buttress, unfortunately marred by vegetation.

1) 55m (4b) The corner starts close to a large flake, and is initially easy, on good rock.

2) 50m (4c) Continue pleasantly up the corner to an unfortunate patch of vegetation.

Squeeze past this into a chimney on the right, which leads to a cave.

3) 50m (4c) Climb a ramp on the right, then go up a slab to a grey shoulder.

4) 30m (5a) Drop down to the corner, then climb up to a bulge and move right to another steep corner.

5) 25m (5b) Follow the corner... to a huge corner!

6) 60m (5a) Go up the huge corner, passing vegetation on the left and scrambling up left to gain the ridge above.

4. Scimitar Ridge VS 5a

265m. This tremendous climb is one of the

most popular routes of its type, and a good introduction to the bigger Samazar routes. It follows the attractive curving Central Buttress of Safinah, providing continually interesting climbing and superb views of the valley.

332

Setting off on the first ascent of Scimitar Ridge (VS 5a) on a hot April day... with no food or water!

1) 25m (-) Start steeply from the lowest point

of the buttress just left of the steep gully.

Follow the crest of the ridge to a block belay.

2) 25m (-) Go up to a chockstone behind a pinnacle and make a high step to regain the ridge crest.

3) 30m (4a) Climb the left side of a steep wall to gain a rightwards hand traverse back to the crest which is followed easily to a belay by a bush.

4) 40m (-) Easy climbing up the ridge to belay by another bush.

5) 20m (4a) The ridge steepens to another good ledge below an impending overhang.

6) 30m (5a) Climb up to the overhang and tackle it direct with excellent holds and protection. The slab above is more technical, but easier than it looks.

7) 20m (4a) A narrow chimney on the right is followed to a steep finish leftwards past blocks.

8) 15m (-) Follow a rightwards trending ramp then move back left to a sloping ledge by a huge perched block.

9) 30m (4c) The compact wall and blunt arĂŞte is a superbly positioned pitch, finishing on a narrow ledge.

10) 30m (-) Move left and climb some loose ground to the summit. Photos page 12, 329 and above

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Samazar – Safinah Sidi M'Zal

Central Buttress

Idaougnidif

p10

20m

Afantinzar

Overview Page XX

hard-looking blunt arĂŞte

p9

Agadir Tower

Narrow chimney

p7

Tamza River Slabs Black Pyramid

Weakness in overhang

p6

Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Rightwards ramp

p8

Samazar

Tamza Wall East The Cromlech Icebox Canyon

West Buttress

p5

Tamza Wall West Flatiron

p4

Amsloul Aguerd Cioch Gintrap Wall Waterfall Walls

Hand traverse

p3

Pimple Aylim Sif Rock

p2

Sermon Slabs Agouti

p1 Igiliz Dragon Buttress

4 3

The Fortress Safinah

333

Tagzene – Babouche Buttress Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif

MULTI PITCH

Afantinzar

Jebel Taskra

Dwawj Wall Tizim Waylim The Sphinx Tagzene Gorge Flake Walls Foussaoun Little John Orange Wall Babouche Buttress

25

Speciality: Solitude, but with an easy approach and descent.

Area Map: Page XX

Tagzene

Dwawj Slabs

Approach: 20 minutes Aspect: South-facing Lots of sunshine. The buttress has some vegetation in some areas.

6

Samazar

Lost World

Babouche Buttress

This imposing, south-facing buttress was one of the first crags to be climbed in the valley, and despite a fair amount of vegetation on some of the lines it has become popular in recent years thanks to the superb Crazy Mushrooms Ridge, which takes a dominating line up the steep left-hand arête.

The buttress gets all the sunshine there is going, and at almost 200m in height gives good length climbs that benefit from a very easy approach and descent – both are downhill from the car!

Parking is available at a bend in the road, on a vague shoulder between the pass from Afantinzar and the Orange Wall, though in fact the approach is fairly obvious from any parking hereabouts.

Map p340

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climbing above to a stance out left on the arête. A variation (5b) continues straight up from the spike and probably warrants E1.

3) 35m (4c) Climb up the left side of the arête, then continue up the superb ridge to the summit of a tower.

4) 35m (4c) Step down 3m, then climb the yellow wall straight up to a curving crack.

Follow this, and some more cracks above to an easier finish to a large terrace.

5) 47m (-) Scrambling to the top.

Photos page 373 and 377

2. Cousin Mark E1 5c

150m. A good climb, sustained at Very Severe

standard with a short difficult crux. This can be avoided and the whole route completed at VS 4c. The climb follows the centre of the broad buttress.

1) 50m (4c) Go up over ledges to gain an excellent wall with small holds. Climb this to a ledge with a small block, then continue up a crack to another ledge.

2) 10m (5c) The wall above is steep and technical, but has protection in the crack. This pitch can be avoided on the left at 4c.

3) 40m (4b) Go up to gain a big curving offwidth crack, vegetated in places.

4) 30m (4b) The off-width becomes a right facing corner.

5) The climbing gradually eases to the top.

From the top of all climbs there is some scrambling to reach the summit, from where vague trails lead easily down rightwards to 3. Spring Offensive VS 4c regain the road.

140m. Another pleasant climb up the right side of the broad buttress.

1. Crazy Mushrooms Ridge HVS 5b 1) 50m (4c) The initial steep wall eventually 190m. The left side of the daunting pillar becomes overhanging, but has good holds. gives a scintillating climb on perfect rock. An easy approach, simple descent, and enjoyable climbing, have helped this route to achieve classic status, despite constant debate about the grade. The crux pitch is hard, but the route is not as sustained or committing as it looks.

1) 28m (-) Climb a small slab leading up right to the ridge, which is followed to a good terrace with a big block.

2) 25m (5b) The magnificent overhanging orange arête is no place to hang around, but not obvious enough to power through. Climb cracks up leftwards, then pull up right onto a short wall. This leads to a spike below steeper ground. Move right here, making awkward moves (5a) to enter a slim groove, with easier

374

Continue to a ledge with a block at about 50m.

2) 40m (4a) Climb up a corner to gain a groove, then finish up another steep wall.

3) 30m (4a) Another short steep wall leads to the top of Cousin Mark pitch 4.

4. Business Time Very Difficult

LOOSE

PRICKLY

130m. The blunt rib to the right of Spring Offensive provides pleasant low-grade climbing, but features a fair amount of vegetation and loose rock lower down.

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Map p340

Tagzene – Babouche Buttress Sidi M'Zal

Babouche Buttress

Idaougnidif

15m

Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Lost World

Cracked Wall

Dwawj Slabs

p4

Dwawj Wall Tizim Waylim

The Tower

The Sphinx Tagzene Gorge Flake Walls

p3

Foussaoun Little John Orange Wall Babouche Buttress

Slim Groove Crux Arête

p2

p1 4 3

1

2

375

Jebel Taskra – Overview to Ait Baha and Agadir

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif

Imrir Narrow Slit

Afantinzar

Tagadirte Crag

Samazar

(page XX)

Imifasn

Aoudid

(page XX)

Tagzene

YE

W Imrir

E

N

Optical Illusion

(page XX)

Assghrkiss

Seamed Wall

TIK

(page XX)

L BE JE

Douar Imifasn Tower

Jebel Taskra

(page XX) Taskra

Teapot Crag

Tassguint

(page XX)

Antelope Buttress Tramline Slabs

Butterscotch Buttress

Asseldrar Thumb

(page XX)

Taskra Gorge

Upper Buttress

(page XX)

(page XX) J EB

EL

W. Gully Wall

TA

Taskra Upper SKRA MA Buttress SSBastion

Doudad

(page XX)

Taskra East Pillars (page XX)

IF (page XX)

Tifghelt Buttress Frontal Facets Echo Wall Taskra East Pillar Taskra Bastion Taskra Gorge Seamed Wall Imrir Upper Titan's Butterscotch Teapot Crag

JEBEL TASKRA AREA MAP

Unlike much of the east-facing rock around Sidi M'Zal and Tizi Gzaouine, the quartzite Located to the north of Jebel el Kest, this of the Tizi n'Takoucht escarpment is of superb escarpment has plenty to offer the impeccable quality, providing some first-class climber, particularly during hot afternoons climbing, mostly in the mid to upper grades. when the northeast-facing crags come into their own. There's a superb mix of climbing When approaching the Anti-Atlas from here, from delightfully situated single-pitch Agadir, the long line of cliffs from Asseldrar routes to some long, full-day adventures. And in the east, to the high col above Imrir make for those in search of something truly remote, a superb sight, and are usually the first crags the infamous Lost Valley lurks in the middle to catch the eye of visiting climbers. Indeed, the stunning 'Thumb' at Asseldrar did not of a remote wilderness.

JEBEL TASKRA - The Tizi n'Takoucht Escarpment

Imrir Slit Optical Illusion Douar Imifasn Tagadirte

378

Jebel Taskra – Overview to Ait Baha and Agadir

to Ait Baha and Agadir

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif

Tabnanat

Afantinzar

Tassguint Crag Ayoufis

Frontal Facets

Tifghelt

i Tiz

R ht

ad

o

uc

(page XX)

ko 'Ta

Asseldrar

Izougne

N

Samazar Tagzene

to Tafraoute via Sidi M'Zal and Tarakatine

Jebel Taskra

Tif gh e

lt Co l

Kasbah Assghrkiss Tizourgane Doudad

Doudad Walls

Antelope Buttress

Antelope Buttress

Tramline Slabs

(page XX)

(page XX)

Echo Walls

Tassguint

Assghrkiss

West Gully Wall

(page XX)

Tizirt

(page XX)

Asseldrar Thumb (page XX)

Asseldrar Thumb

Assghrkiss

Tramline Slabs

(page XX)

(page XX)

W. Gully Wall

Ait Taleb

(page XX) to Idaougnidif

Tifghelt Buttress

Doudad Tifghelt Buttress

N

(page XX)

Frontal Facets

0km

3km

Echo Wall

see page XX for overview map

escape the interest of western climbers for long, receiving its first ascent by none other than messrs Brown, Turnbull and Warner in 1999, who temporarily based themselves in Ait Baha whilst exploring these remote cliffs.

this reason the escarpment was one of the most recent areas to be developed, only really seeing any significant development after the increase in popularity of the Kasbah Tizourgane as a climbers' base in 2009.

The Tizi n'Takoucht escarpment itself is the northeastern front of the Jebel Taskra massif, which runs from the Kasbah at Tizourgane up to the tiny community of Tizi n'Takoucht on the far northern slopes of the Anti-Atlas.

It is, therefore, quite a drive from Tafraout, taking between 1 and 1.5 hours by car. For

The Tizi n'Takoucht road, along which all of the climbing is located, leaves the main Agadir road just north of the Kasbah Tizourgane – see the map above. Crags are described from east to west, the direction they are usually approached from Tafraout and the Kasbah Tizourgane.

Taskra East Pillar Taskra Bastion Taskra Gorge Seamed Wall Imrir Upper Titan's Butterscotch Teapot Crag Imrir Slit Optical Illusion Douar Imifasn Tagadirte

379

Map p378

Jebel Taskra – Asseldrar Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Assghrkiss Tassguint Antelope Buttress Tramline Slabs Asseldrar Thumb W. Gully Wall Doudad Tifghelt Buttress Frontal Facets Echo Wall Taskra East Pillar Taskra Bastion Taskra Gorge Seamed Wall Imrir Upper Titan's Butterscotch Teapot Crag Imrir Slit Optical Illusion Douar Imifasn Tagadirte

left to a prominent groove and follow this up rightwards to a good ledge.

2) 25m (5b) Continue directly up the centre of the wall to another ledge.

3) 25m (5b) Climb the wall above, then a couple of awkward grooves to a niche.

4) 40m (6b) Climb a flake out right, then step back left to climb the bold black wall to a groove. Follow this up left to a large ledge.

5) 30m (5a) Traverse the blocks leftwards to a step down, then climb a steep groove leading to a prominent red chimney.

6) 20m (5a) Continue up the excellent chimney to a ledge on the crest.

7) 30m (5c) Climb the wall directly to a sloping ledge, then step right to a crack. Continue more easily to a belay in a big bay.

8) 20m (5b) Climb blocks, slightly rightwards, then move left to climb a little flying groove in the crest.

9) 25m (5c) Continue directly to an overhanging crack / groove and follow it with some difficulty to a fine perch.

10) 35m (5c) Climb the bulging wall using a crack on the left, then traverse right to a flake.

Climb left around the edge to gain an exposed wall which leads to easier ground up right.

11-12) 75m (4c) Climb a groove, then easier rock to the top.

STEEP

10. Eagles and Doves TD E2 5c

300m. A lonely lead up the centre of the

imposing wall. An unappealing shallow cave system is the only weakness in the lower wall, and this route starts at the blunt arête to its right.

1) 30m (5c) Climb the arête rightwards, then back left and move up to gain a short groove.

Go up this to a ledge on the right.

2) 20m (-) Move easily up right to below red bulges.

3) 50m (5a) Climb up through a break in the bulges, then continue more easily up rightwards to belay on a huge flake below bushes.

4) 40m (4c) Climb the wall left of the bushes, then go up steps to a belay on a shelf at the start of a right-trending fault line in the headwall.

5) 30m (4c) Climb up the fault to a pedestal.

6) 20m (5b) Go up a crack until it fades, then step up right before moving back left and up to a narrow ledge. Move 5m right to belay by a huge flake.

388

1:00

15m

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

7) 20m (5b) Go back left along the ledge and

climb up to a bulge left of the big roof. Climb through this and move 5m right to a belay.

8) 40m (4c) Go up a short crack and then trend more easily up leftwards.

9) 30m (5a) Head up towards a slot on the skyline, then step up right onto a latge detached nose before scrambling up to easy ground.

10) Further scrambling remains to the top.

11. The Big Marhaba TD E3 5c

300m. A good climb, with two magnificent

initial pitches but poorer climbing above. Start at the middle of the base of the wall, just left of a tree.

1) 40m (5c) Climb up to prominent flakes and jugs, then move right and up to gain and follow a crack through the overhang. Belay at a big break.

2) 40m (5c) Continue up the bulging orange wall above with sustained interest.

3-4) 70m (-) Scramble up right, heading for the big arching overhang. Belay on a spacious ledge below the rib on its left.

5) 50m (5a) Climb the rib to a huge block and bushy recess.

6) 40m (5b) Step across onto the wall and climb directly up to belay below a wall and left-slanting groove.

7-8) 60m (5a) Climb the wall and groove, then easier ground to the top.

12. Rust Never Sleeps TD E2 5b

BOLD

300m. An excellent route with some hard,

bold climbing and fine positions. Starts to the right of the Big Marhaba at a grey cone of rock, left of the big corner.

1) 50m (5b) Bold moves up left gain easier ground heading up right to a small bush.

2) 20m (4a) Move left along the ledge, then up through a groove to a belay.

3) 50m (-) Climb directly up easy ground.

4) 50m (4c) Follow a succession of steps and corners to the left of the obvious black streak, heading rightwards all the time to a tree on easier ground.

5) 20m (-) Move up to belay beneath the upper wall.

6) 50m (5b) Another bold pitch. Go up the crackline past a small block and overhang, then continue up the thin wall above to easier ground and ledges.

15m

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p378

Jebel Taskra – Asseldrar Sidi M'Zal

13

Idaougnidif Afantinzar

12

Samazar

11

Tagzene

10

Jebel Taskra

Assghrkiss Tassguint

9

Antelope Buttress

6

7

8

Tramline Slabs Asseldrar Thumb W. Gully Wall Doudad Tifghelt Buttress

5

Frontal Facets

3

4

Echo Wall Taskra East Pillar Taskra Bastion

2

Taskra Gorge

1

Seamed Wall Imrir Upper Titan's Butterscotch

15m

Imrir Slit

AM

Teapot Crag

Asseldrar Thumb

1:00

Optical Illusion Douar Imifasn Tagadirte

389

Jebel Taskra – Asseldrar

Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

Tassguint Antelope Buttress Tramline Slabs

Tifghelt Buttress

7) 50m (4b) Move left then up a square red groove to finish up several steps above.

13. Crazy Horse AD VS 4c

300m. The huge corner / groove is a good

Butterscotch

climb, and one of the few 'easier' routes on the face. It leads up to a prominent arched overhang half-way up the face.

1) 50m (4a) Climb the corner.

2) 50m (-) Continue up ledges and walls to belay beneath the arched overhang.

3) 50m (-) Climb up to the right of the arched overhang, over easy blocks and ledges.

4) 45m (4c) Traverse horizontally left to gain a groove, which leads to further grooves above.

5) 35m (4a) Pleasant face-climbing leads to a large block on a ledge.

6) 50m (4c) Climb up to a left-facing groove to the right of a black line.

7) 20m (-) An easy finish over blocks and ledges.

Teapot Crag

14. Overture AD VS 4c

Frontal Facets Echo Wall Taskra East Pillar Taskra Bastion Taskra Gorge Seamed Wall Imrir Upper Titan's

Imrir Slit Optical Illusion Douar Imifasn Tagadirte

YES

YES

NO

14. Tumbling Clown D+ E1 5a

Assghrkiss

Doudad

15m

Hitch

NO

prominent crack / chimney and passing overhangs on the right.

3) Go up to a large ledge-system beneath the steeper walls above.

4) Climb a crack, then traverse up rightwards across slabs to gain the prominent crack.

5-6) Climb the crack, which widens into a wide chimney, capped by an overhang.

7) Surmount the overhang and continue more easily to the top.

Idaougnidif

W. Gully Wall

1:00

2) Climb upwards, heading for a

Sidi M'Zal

Asseldrar Thumb

Map p378

250m. The clean sweep of rock on the right-hand side of the front face gives another typically adventurous route. Start in the gully on the right of an easy lefttrending break.

1) Climb up left and continue easily to good ledges.

390

ADVENTURE

250m. The right-hand arête of the face gives mostly VS climbing with a tricky, bold pitch about half-way up. Start in the gully to the right at a short right-slanting groove leading to a larger groove above. Slippery climbing up this gains further grooves leading up left to large ledges. Some involved wall-climbing above presents several awkward bulges, culminating in an exposed traverse left under a roof on a very steep wall. Easier climbing above.

14. Brown–Hinkes Route AD VS 4c

ADVENTURE

240m. Few details are known about this

adventure up the black grooves on the left wall of the gully. The grooves are gained from the right via a traverse across steep slabs. Climb up the right-hand side of the wide groove system, following the easiest line to the top.

15. Gin Trap TD- E2 5b

120m. Varied climbing up the right flank,

starting a long way up the gully at an impasse formed by large boulders.

1) 30m (5b) Climb a short, slim groove to a slab, then move left and follow a thin crack over bulges to a belay on a flake.

2) 30m (5a) Follow the black streak to a belay below bulges.

3) 30m (5b) Move left and follow a steep crack to a ledge. Continue more easily up to another ledge on the right.

4) 30m (4c) Climb the narrow, knobbly orange groove to the right of the easy chimney, finishing over bulges to easy ground.

1:00

15m

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p378

Jebel Taskra – Asseldrar

RLD ADVENTURES BEYOND THE ULTRAWO Robertson

by Guy

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

been kind diers (where Messrs Brown et al had Samazar After a brief visit to the Hotel Les Aman foray was to the temptingly first our date) to ed climb s route the of enough to leave details a of hing somet ely the valley. This was unfor tunat Tagzene named High Crag on the north side of ers, and our the 300 metres claimed by the pione disappointment. The crag is not quite ground to a halt crag the of n sectio al Jebel centr bed attempt to tame the very steep, unclim by coming Taskra s up. Although somewhat perturbed in a 'weetabix grotto' some seventy metre nt adjace ed an acceptable two-pitch E2 on an across unacceptably loose rock, we salvag Brown hadn't vity' levels high. Surely the legendary 'positi the keep to vowed and p, outcro Assghrkiss likes of this? come back here year after year for the were alone s ctive, and in fact the next three route Tassguint Our next venture was far more produ g for As we only had ten days, we were lookin easily good enough to justify our trip. and the walls big an Mexic both ne Antelope forego had we something big and steep, especially as notes in Les Buttress ular photo in amongst the scraps and partic One n.

Lofote of liths mono e granit the north. Only Tramline – the exotic-sounding Assandrar, to nation imagi our red captu diers Aman 350m-high Slabs what looked to be a super-impressive a handful of lines were marked up on of the Asseldrar from the photo took on the challenge out picked we line The rock. e dome of pristin monstrous Thumb down, before gaining and following a huge, smooth black-streaked wall low it. summ the to W. Gully 150m ning remai the bulging arête direct for Wall ng burni the ring obscu cloud of r venee a thin Although the weather was perfect, with which the Doudad 't for the life of us find the village after sun, our day started badly. We couldn of With emotions running high in the face map. the on here anyw d, name Tifghelt crag had been surprisingly, local hitcher and asked his advice. Not Buttress another abortive day, we picked up a was he where that ent te this, he seemed confid Frontal he didn't speak a word of English. Despi we in the absence of any rational alternative Facets going was where we needed to be, and of divine providence. After short g nothin was next ned happe decided to roll with it. What ly ening fright Echo Wall g along a seriously dilapidated and forty minutes of white-knuckle drivin anion where we were going, and our new comp Taskra steep single-track 'piste', with no idea crag the of in Arabic, we arrived at the very foot East Pillar gesturing wildly and shouting constantly Taskra we had seen in the photo!

Bastion apparently promptly greeted by a large crowd of The hitcher got out of the car and was the to d turne Taskra and fruit. We, on the other hand, expectant friends wielding dead goats Gorge stunning. nted our destiny. It looked absolutely huge crag looming above us, and confro Seamed g rock, with Wall 300 metres of vertical or overhangin Unlike High Crag, Assandrar was fully for discussion, the two of us jogged need no With top. the at d Imrir groun a bit of easier angled not that clear e becam y Upper the start of the line. It quickl the ten minutes or so straight up to to call upon also that our proposed line was going only was the rock here impeccable, but twigs, of Titan's ng drawi word go. After the customary our innermost strengths right from the ButterTrev started to climb. scotch istic - the first thirty metres or so optim t wasn' I point this at that I have to admit h smoot erful, Teapot wond a like was obscured! It looked Crag overhung so much that the route above and lt to pioneer, with not only the angle and pocketed pitch, but extremely difficu le lines into the bargain. Imrir Slit possib of sion confu a but ms proble g shortage of good holds causin flair he out, but with typical guile, cunning and Twenty feet up, Trev started to pump and friends into Optical nuts tiny in g fiddlin and right, then Illusion padded on up, pawing leftwards all the display of on-sight climbing, and took perfect slots. It was a most impressive d. Hard, behin Douar from up ck rucksa and body drag Imifasn strength and gusto I could muster to a 350m route! start to way a what – 6a E5 ate intric e of the big Tagadirte still intricate and sustained up the middl The next sixty metres were easier but our way up the centre ering plund – best its at ing climb wall at 5b/c. This was adventure

“

391

Jebel Taskra – Echo Walls, Tifghelt

Map p378

1:10

30m

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

NO

Sidi M'Zal Idaougnidif Afantinzar

Samazar Tagzene Jebel Taskra

60m Assghrkiss

1

Tassguint

6

Antelope Buttress

7

Tramline Slabs

2

Asseldrar Thumb

Echo Wall

W. Gully Wall

8

30m

AM

Doudad

5 9

3

Overview Page XX

Tifghelt Buttress Frontal Facets Echo Wall

MULTI PITCH

Taskra East Pillar

Seamed Wall

Titan's Butterscotch Teapot Crag Imrir Slit Optical Illusion Douar Imifasn Tagadirte

25

Speciality: Hard wall climbs that stay cool in hot weather.

Area Map: Page XX

Taskra Gorge

Imrir Upper

Approach: 30 minutes Aspect: East Shady for much of the day.

6

Taskra Bastion

1. Echo and the Bunnygirls HVS

Echo Walls

This is the attractive wall on the right side of the broad gully, directly opposite the Upper West Walls on Tifghelt Buttress. The wall faces east and gets plenty of shade during hot afternoons, making it a good choice during periods of warm weather. Approach in about 20 minutes from Tifghelt Col, via the obvious broad gully.

Descent from the first two routes is by scrambling up leftwards to the top of the broad gully. Routes around Echo Corner are descended by abseil from a small notch above Life and Fate.

400

85m. This route climbs the left edge of the

wall. Start at the foot of the mossy gully.

1) 35m (5a) Follow cracks past minor ledges and corners to a belay on a good ledge below an overhanging arête.

2) 20m (5a) Move left and pull onto the wall left of the arête. Follow easy climbing up the right edge of the wall.

3) 30m (-) Finish easily up large corners and descend over to the left and back down into the broad gully.

The next route is located some 50m right of Echo and the Bunnygirls and 100m up from Fat Man Won’t Fit. 2. Sound Reflection E2 5b

85m. Start 10m left of the bottomless groove,

at a finger/hand ramp leading rightwards.

1) 30m (5b) Fingery climbing gains better holds, leading rightwards for about four metres. Climb directly up recessed cracks through the steep wall to a ledge and belay on the right.

1:10

25m

YES

YES

NO

Hitch

NO

Map p378

Jebel Taskra – Echo Walls, Tifghelt

2) 40m (5b) Go directly up ledges and bulges

to an overhang. Approach the roof from the left, with good cams in a crack through the roof. Pull through on a good hold and climb up to a block belay beneath a short crack.

3) 15m (5b) Step off the large blocks and climb the stiff crack above, avoiding an overhang on the right.

3. Fat Man Won’t Fit E2 5b

Sidi M'Zal

Echo Corner AM

Idaougnidif

25m

Overview Page XX

Afantinzar

60m

Samazar Tagzene

WIDE

Jebel Taskra

55m. At the bottom end of Echo Wall is a

prominent roof with a chimney leading up to it .

1) 25m (5b) Climb the chimney for 10m then pull left into a groove and follow it up to the roof. Bridge out into the narrow cleft which splits the roof and provides ample opportunity for amusing contortions.

2) 30m (5a) Climb the leaning block above and pull left into a corner. Follow this to the top.

4. If Only they Sold Beer E1 5b

7

Assghrkiss Tassguint

7 6

5. Echo Corner E1 5b

65m. The epic corner, climbed in two

magnificent pitches, needs little introduction.

6. Good Vibrations HVS 5a

65m. Climbs the wall and arete to the right

of Echo Corner.

1) 40m (5a) Follow the prominent diagonal ledge system rightwards. At the end of the overlap go up steep scoops to the arete and climb a vertical crack at the top.

2) 25m (4c) Step right and follow the arete above the gully to an abseil point.

7. Life and Fate E5 6a

Tramline Slabs

5 4

70m. Good climbing up the left sidewall of

Echo Corner.

1) (5a) Climb an open crack to its end, then go right to a square block.

2) (5b) Traverse right, then move up into the groove. Climb this for 3m before escaping rightwards into Echo Corner. Climb up 6m to a belay.

3) (5b) Finish up Echo Corner.

Antelope Buttress

8

Asseldrar Thumb

9

W. Gully Wall Doudad

to a break. Finish up a thin crack system to the notch.

8. Gaddafi's Gold E3 5c

65m. This tremendous classic up the right

wall of the corner.

1) 30m (5b) Climb the vertical crack in the centre of the wall, go past a bushy ledge and climb a steep wall. Step left and belay on a small ledge above.

2) 35m (5c) Angle up left across the wall to reach a crack which resembles an arrow pointing downwards. Climb the crack and step left to a roof, pull round its right side and finish up the arête.

9. Bob's Arete E1 5b

BOLD

65m. The direct start to Good Vibrations

tackles the tempting arête, with a bold and serious start. Finish more easily above.

55m. An excellent and sustained pitch up the

Tifghelt Buttress Frontal Facets Echo Wall Taskra East Pillar Taskra Bastion Taskra Gorge Seamed Wall Imrir Upper Titan's Butterscotch Teapot Crag Imrir Slit Optical Illusion

superb wall right of Echo Corner. Start up the diagonal line of Good Vibrations. Climb 10m to a bush then traverse left under the roof and pull up onto the wall. Climb a crack above then move left and make difficult moves up

Douar Imifasn Tagadirte

401

“Like Todra, our arrival at the top of the Ameln Valley above Tafraout was a jaw-dropping moment. After a good three hours of switch-backing south east from Agadir we turned a final endless rise and came face to face with a sea of rock. What a mouth-watering sight! In an instant we started to piece together lines, the steepest blank walls captivating our imagination – this was what we had really come for.”

- Guy Robertson

Selected Bouldering Roadside Sport Climbing World-class Winter Sun Trad The definitive Tafraout guide, featuring: • Almost 2000 rock climbs, including trad routes from Easy

to E7, and sport climbs from F4 to F8b.

• Selected granite bouldering.

• Everything from 8m roadside routes to 800m alpine epics, across the Ameln Valley, Sidi M’Zal, Idaougnidif, Afantinzar, Samazar, Jebel Taskra, Tagzene, and Tagmout.

• Detailed maps and the most accurate photo-topos ever produced for the Anti-Atlas.