CRUISING GUIDE
If you’re heading south from the UK or Northern Europe, Galicia makes for a convenient break after a Biscay crossing, but consider staying longer to explore this wonderful spot. Experience the tranquillity of a night in one of the numerous picturesque anchorages in the Rías Baixas and you’ll be thinking again about this spectacular and hospitable corner of Spain. Once there, you’ll discover an even bigger cruising ground than you might have expected.
GETTING THERE If you are taking a passage from the UK, one word dominates your thinking – Biscay! There isn’t enough space here to debate the tactics to be adopted for this passage. However, with Ile D’Quessant abeam, there are 335 miles to be covered to A Coruña, so a favorable 48-hour forecast should see you safely there. The approach to A Coruña is dominated by the site of the Tower of Hercules, Europe’s oldest working lighthouse and well worth a visit. A Coruña itself has an authentic feel to it and the Marina Real is well placed for exploring the back streets of the old city and its justly praised tapas bars. Look to sample “pulpo” (octopus) and “navajas” (razor clams).
As well as the magic of the four Rías south of Cabo Fisterra (Cape Finisterre), there are the off-lying islands that provide shelter, but more importantly are wonderful destinations in their own right.
RIGHT: CAMARIÑAS MARINA FA R R I G H T: T H E TOW E R O F HERCULES IS THE O L D E S T E X TA N T LIGHTHOUSE KNOWN. BELOW: THE RÍAS BAIXAS
THE ISLANDS The three rías to the south are each protected by islands: Illa Salvora off the Ría de Arousa; Illa Ons off the Ría de Pontevedra; and the Illas Cíes off the Ría de Vigo. All are designated national parks and a permit is needed to anchor off them, as well as to land. Do not let this put you off as the process is straightforward through the authorisation website and the rewards are magical anchorages, unspoilt beaches, and walks along marked paths that allow you to appreciate these remarkable places.
MOVING SOUTH Between A Coruña and Cabo Fisterra lies the Costa da Morte (Coast of Death – just in case Biscay hasn’t already grabbed your attention). This is a wild place, but its name owes more to the shipwrecks of the past than present day. A useful stopover before the landmark Cape is Camariñas, where there is a reasonable marina, or Muxia on the other side of the same bay. Once round Cabo Fisterra, and with the obligatory photos having been taken, you are in the Rías Baixas (the “Lower Rías” in Galician). The climate becomes gentler and the coastline more forgiving. 4 4
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Sheltered anchorages can be found along the eastern shores, with a quick dinghy run ashore straight onto the beaches which, even in high season, are not crowded. There you’ll find the odd beach bar, café and restaurant, but these are not mass tourist destinations. The numbers of daily visitors are restricted, meaning that the trippers on the foot ferries from the mainland must also be in possession of a permit to land. The islands also perform the extremely helpful function of providing protection from the Atlantic swell, and when taking the inside passage, it is not unlike archipelago sailing in the Baltic or the west coast of Scotland – except it’s warmer – and there are no midges! The water temperature though, is more Cornwall than Costa del Sol, something you may wish to bear in mind before diving into the clear waters of an anchorage. IS SU E
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