Ramadan, to travel or not to travel

Travel Editor, Lydia Doye, shares her experience of Ramadan in Cairo

Egypt is a destination that has historically captivated travellers with its ancient history, stunning architecture, and bustling cities. But for those who choose to visit during the month of Ramadan the experience is transformed into so much more than this. Living in Egypt’s capital, Cairo, during this time, I was welcomed into the local culture and encouraged to immerse myself in the festivities.

As Ramadan approaches, the city transfigures into a sea of vibrant colours and beautiful decorations. Intricately designed lanterns hang from every doorway, lighting up the night sky. This tradition dates back to the Fatimid era around a thousand years ago when lanterns were used to light the way for processions of people wishing to observe the crescent moon which marks the beginning of the Ramadan. The lantern has become iconic, it is the equivalent of the Christmas tree, and it rare to see a home without one. Where fancy decorations cannot be a orded, communities come together in harmony to create colourful banners and garlands out of recycled materials, which are strung from wall to wall, adding a festive and welcoming atmosphere to the city. In addition to lanterns and banners, there are also incredible displays of calligraphy and artwork that are common during Ramadan. These decorations are a testament to the beauty and diversity of the country’s rich cultural heritage, but they are not simply about their aesthetic value. Instead, they embody the spirit of togetherness, signifying the coming together of family and friends and have left a lasting impression on me.

The city transfigures into a sea of vibrant colours and beautiful decorations

Ramadan must-trys

Dates

Dates are traditionally eaten to break the fast in Egypt. They ease hunger and prepare the stomach to receive food after being inactive throughout the day.

Wandering the streets in the morning you may wonder what all the hype is about. Restaurants and cafes are closed for business, local bars stop serving alcohol and tourist attractions may close early. It is almost as though the city is asleep. The normally chaotic roads descend into silence and transform into a ghost town, as families break their fast together at home. Once the call to prayer sounds, however, the city awakes from its slumber and returns to its bustling state. Shops and restaurants open at night as people eat and drink into the early morning hours, with happy groups of people smoking shisha whilst playing endless games of dominoes. You can also find buzzing night markets which come to life later. These are packed full of vendors who sell everything from traditional clothing to handmade crafts and souvenirs. The atmosphere is infectious and it is easy to be swept up in the excitement.

The city awakes from its slumber and returns to its bustling state

If you stroll through the streets of Downtown Cairo as the sun sets you might just get to witness the magic of Iftar, the meal where Muslims break their fast together. Throughout the city you can find long banquet tables set up in the streets in di erent neighbourhoods at this time to provide free food and drink for their inhabitants. If you are lucky, you will be invited to pull up a chair and join the festivities, which is undoubtedly an unforgettable experience. Traditionally, Muslims break their fast with dates and water, which are then followed by a meal of feast-like proportions including a multitude of delicious Ramadan desserts.

In the run up to Ramadan, I was apprehensive to say the least. I was unsure of what to expect and had so many unanswered questions. Would I be able allowed to eat or drink in public?

Knafeh

Would I have to become nocturnal? As I am writing now and I reflect on the last month, I hope that you have a caught a glimpse of the magic of Ramadan that I have tried to capture. One thing I have noticed throughout my time here is the kind-hearted nature of the Cairenes. During Ramadan, this kindness is magnified ten-fold and nothing could have prepared me for the immense hospitality I have experienced. So if you are putting o travelling anywhere to avoid the enchanting chaos that celebrations like this can bring then I urge you not to, they only come around once in a crescent moon.

Knafeh is a popular dessert during Ramadan. It is made with spun pastry called kataifi, soaked in a sweet, sugar-based syrup called attar, and typically layered with cheese.