FOR THE CURIOUS, THE COLLECTOR AND THE CONNOISSEUR
Fall 2015 $6.95
FALL 2015 •
The BR-X1 is the perfect synthesis of Bell & Ross’s expertise in the world of aviation watches and master watchmaking: an instrument with an innovative design, produced in a limited edition of only 250 pieces. Lightweight and resistant, the Carbone Forgé ® case of the BR-X1 is protected by a high-tech ceramic bezel with a rubber strap. Ergonomic and innovative, the push buttons allow the chronograph functions to be used easily and efficiently. Sophisticated and reliable, the skeleton chronograph movement of the BR-X1 is truly exceptional and combines haute horlogerie finishes with extreme lightness. Photo: ref. BR-X1 Skeleton Chronograph - Carbone Forgé® Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 | www.bellross.com | Download the BR SCAN app to reveal exclusive content
NUMBER ONE HUNDRED FIFTEEN
BR-X1 THE HYPERSONIC CHRONOGRAPH
Tiffany Time Diving Watches Movado Commitment to the Arts
BVLGARI
Diagono Magnesium Duo
P-38 Lightning™ Chronograph Alarm 9447: 44 mm, stainless steel brushed case, screw down crown & case back, black aluminum slide rule ring, dial ring with tachymetric scale, antireflective sapphire crystal, water resistant to 200 meters, honey tan leather strap with steel signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. A Tribute to Lockheed Martin’s legendary twin-boomed WWII Fighter Plane. The Luminox P-38 Lightning™ Series is part of the
Collection.
Available at Tourneau and Other Fine Retailers Nationwide.
Shop Online www.luminox.com facebook.com/Luminox
Fall 2015
No. 115
6
46
Editor's Outline
Movado Commitment to the Arts by Carol Besler
8 News
18
50
Page 34
Tiffany Time
Previews
54
30
Diving Watches by Carol Besler
Bulgari Futuristic materials and E-technology by Carol Besler
34 Chopard In-house movement by Carol Besler
58
The power of
Page 38
Timepiece Timeshare Eleven James by Carol Besler
64 Amelia Island 20 Years On by Denis Tanney
38 The Power of Parmigiani by Carol Besler
42 Montblanc Attention to Accuracy by Carol Besler
78
ATTENTION TO ACCURACY
Watch Collector
Page 42
20
Amelia Island... YEARS ON
Page 64
4
Fall 2015
CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is published quarterly for $30.00 per year by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered Issue # 115 the Fall 2015. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CHRONOS at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557
Slim d’Hermès watch in rose gold, Manufacture H1950 ultra-thin movement.
SLIM D’HERMÈS, PURITY IN MOTION.
1-800-441-4488 Hermes.com
EDITOR'S OUTLINE
In this issue of Chronos we present a variety of the most dazzling and illuminating illustrations of watchmaking, or timepiece engineering as it is commonly known. We start with Bulgari and their exploration of the futuristic materials being used in timepiece engineering. The story is found on page 30. Providing satisfaction to luxury needs, E-Technology and new materials have been successfully used to create a watch that performs in an outstanding manner, and at the same time is very exciting from a design point of view. On our cover is this very watch, the Bulgari Diagono Magnesium shown in coppery brown and deep blue. The Movado Group has been widely recognized for its commitment to the arts. This commitment is intrinsic to the brands identity. Their watches are at the intersection of innovation and design, being created in collaboration with luminaries of the 20th century art world. The story on page 46, outlines the group of artists who along with the practitioners of century-old Swiss watchmakers produced timepieces that stand as highly collectable works of art and watch craft. The science of the measurement of time and timekeeping is called chronometry. Montblanc’s new Heritage Chronométrie Collection celebrates the art of accurate timekeeping in an outstanding group of ultra-accurate instruments. The five models in this collection are impressive for their range and include what may be some of the most affordable complications on the market from a luxury watchmaker. See our story on page 42. Timepiece engineering for a specific purpose is illustrated by the development of the divers’ watch. In the past only a handful of brands took on the task of making a watch which is water and pressure resistant because it was not commercially viable before the boom in water sports and diving for leisure. Given the task, watch companies proved more than up to the challenge. Today almost every major brand has a collection of divers’ watches. See story on page 54. In the world of cars, our story Amelia Island – 20 Years On shows us what astounding achievements can be obtained in the course of 20 years. This is an event where to the desire to dazzle, illuminate and educate observers is paramount. Amelia Island represents the highest level of car show. Our story outlines in great detail the activities to be enjoyed by attendees over a three-day weekend. See story on page 64. This show has become one of the top two Concours in the United States. A careful read of the article will provide the answer to exactly why this is so.
6
Fall 2015
news MANFREDI JEWELS’ NEW/OLD BUILDING Roberto Chiappelloni, owner of Manfredi Jewelers, recently purchased the Greenwich, Connecticut building that Manfredi Jewels has called home for almost three decades. Manfredi Jewels has been a staple in Greenwich and in Fairfield County for 27 years.
Fall 2015
No. 115
PUBLISHER & EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bertram Kalisher ASSOCIATE EDITOR Nancy K. Siskind MANAGING EDITOR Patricia Renzo
“2015 has been an extraordinary year for Manfredi Jewels,” says Roberto Chiappelloni. “With the opening of the New Canaan boutique and the purchase of our flagship location, there has never been a brighter future for Manfredi Jewels. My team and I have been able to be a part of so many momentous events in our customer’s lives. Whether it is an engagement, graduation, anniversary, holiday, retirement or just that special something for someone you love, we have been there to counsel and help them choose that perfect piece,” he says.
WATCH & JEWELRY EDITOR Carol Besler
The Manfredi Greenwich boutique is located at 121 Greenwich Avenue and is over 3,500 square feet. Manfredi’s collection of over 30 brands of fine timepieces is the culmination of owner Roberto Chiappelloni’s many years as a timepiece enthusiast. Before starting this business, Roberto was a collector himself and started the business in hopes of sharing his passion with the Greenwich community and bringing some of the lesser-known brands to the United States.
WRITERS Jeff Prine Carol Besler Stuart Leuthner Bertram Kalisher Marceline Kalisher
ART DIRECTOR Raj Walia ONLINE EDITOR Samuel Siskind
PHOTOGRAPHY Keiko Makishima AUTOMOTIVE EDITOR Denis L. Tanney PRODUCTION OFFICE Chronos 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516 Ads@ChronosWatchMagazine.com EXECUTIVE OFFICE EDITORIAL ADVERTISING 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516; Fax: (516) 374-5060 www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com Manfredi Jewels at Greenwhich Avenue.
CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is owned and published quarterly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557. Copyright 2011 by Kalbe Associates, Inc. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in CHRONOS. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts. Subscriptions: $6.95 per copy; $30.00 per year in the United States; add $18.00 per year for foreign postage.
8
Fall 2015
©2015 movado group, inc.
MO-
©2015 movado group, inc.
MO-16-291_0606914_1881-Automatic_4c_Page_Chronos_Oct-2015
NEW 1881 AUTOMATIC™ A MODERN TRIBUTE TO THE YEAR MOVADO WAS FOUNDED. SWISS MADE. FINE SELFWINDING MOVEMENT. MOVADO.COM
SCHAUMBURG WATCH Ice Crystal
Frisco, TX p:(214)494-4241
RETAILER
Distributed by ATLG (401)952-4684
(10291)
news DANNY WILLETT WEARS AUDEMARS PIGUET Audemars Piguet recently announced that Danny Willett is the newest golf Ambassador. After a great result at The Open in Scotland where he finished sixth, the 27-year old Englishman went on to win the European Masters in picturesque Crans-Montana. He records his second victory of the 2015 European Tour season, after winning the opening event, the Nedbank Golf Challenge in South Africa. “Two wins and good performances in Majors and World Golf Championships is more than I could have hoped for, but I have worked really hard so it is nice to get the rewards for it,” says Danny Willett. He reaches a career-high of 24th in the world rankings. Danny wears a stainless steel Royal Oak Chronograph and embodies Audemars Piguet’s brand philosophy “To break the rules, you must first master them.” Other Audemars Piguet ambassadors include Keegan Bradley, Bud Cauley, Darren Clarke, Victor Dubuisson, Sir Nick Faldo, Miguel Ángel Jiménez, Louis Oosthuizen, Ian Poulter, Henrik Stenson, Peter Uihlein, Lee Westwood and Bernd Wiesberger. Danny Willet wears Audemars Piguet.
SEIKO TIMES THE GAMES
Seiko times the IAAF World Athletics World Championships.
Seiko’s new timing equipment enhances visibility in the stadium.
10
Fall 2015
Chronos 2015 Issue 115
Seiko sponsored the IAAF World Athletics World Championships in Beijing recently, where 1,900 athletes from 207 countries competed. This year’s event marks the Seiko’s 30th anniversary of Seiko’s appointment by International Association of Athletics Federations as Official Timekeeper. In close cooperation with the IAAF, Seiko has developed a variety of bespoke and cutting edge technologies and been part of many dramatic moments. This year’s new equipment includes the Trackside Display Board, Wind Display Board and Lap Counter. They use LED technology to display track and field results and information, enhancing visibility in the stadium.
10291
(10291)
T:8.375�
Wempe Chronometerwerke Power Reserve
Chronos 2015 Issue 115
18K gold, manual winding with stop seconds function and subsidiary second dial. Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and screw down crystal case back. 60 hours power-reserve. Water-resistant. Officially tested chronometer to German DIN 8319 standard. From $8500. Exclusively at Wempe.
10291 chronos 115 power reserve_01.indd 1
8/20/15 7:52 PM
news JAEGER-LECOULTRE ON THE RED CARPET Actor Miles Teller wore a Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Night & Day timepiece in pink gold to the premiere of “Fantastic Four” at Williamsburg Cinemas in New York. Launched in 2014, the Grande Reverso Night & Day brought a new milestone in the epic ongoing adventures of the Reverso by featuring the quintessence of the Art Deco icon while providing all the convenience of an automatic movement. Directed by Josh Trank, “Fantastic Four” stars actors Miles Teller, Michael B. Jordan, Kate Mara and Jamie Bell. Also wearing Jaeger-LeCoultre was actor Jeremy Renner, who wore the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon to the premiere of “Mission: Impossible – Rogue Nation.”
Jeremy Renner.
Actor Miles Teller.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon.
12
Fall 2015
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Night & Day timepiece.
news CARA DELEVINGNE AND TAG HEUER HELP LIONS TAG Heuer and model/actress Cara Delevingne, a TAG Heuer ambassador, have raised $28,000 to help wild lions in Africa. Saddened by the death of Cecil the lion, Brand ambassador Cara Delevingne decided to auction on eBay her personal TAG Heuer Signature Edition watch, which sold for $14,430 for WildCRU.org, the research unit with the scientists of the Wildlife Conservation Research Unit who are working on the future of wild lions in Africa and who have studied Cecil since 2008. TAG Heuer matched the winning bid to raise a combined $28,900.
Cara Delevingne wearing her special-edition TAG Heuer.
WESTIME ON THE MOVE After a dozen successful years operating an intimate boutique where Via Rodeo meets Rodeo Drive, Westime, the family-owned luxury watch and jewelry retailer, has moved its Beverly Hills showroom up the cobblestones to a sun-filled location at the top of Via Rodeo. The new, 2,000-square-foot boutique is part of the Two Rodeo shopping district on Rodeo Drive. Westime Beverly Hills’ new location—next to the valet elevator alcove and across from Restaurant 208—features a welcoming façade of red brick and floor-to-ceiling windows. Six showcase towers automatically rotate 180 degrees every hour to present a new selection of fine timepieces to browsers. Within the boutique, showcases of varying shapes, sizes and colors are arranged in a series of intimate “neighborhoods,” allowing each of the 40 watch and jewelry brands on display to reside in a unique setting. Freestanding showcases, seating areas and an espresso bar create a relaxing environment that encourages customers to discover products at their leisure. Among the brands available are Audemars Piguet, Hublot, Breitling, Chopard, Franck Muller, Harry Winston and Richard Mille. And to coincide with the store unveiling, Westime Beverly Hills is pleased to welcome several new collections to the location: Bulgari high complication pieces, Carl F. Bucherer, Omega and Ulysse-Nardin. Westime at Two Rodeo.
14
Fall 2015
news PIAGET POLO Piaget recently hosted the fourth annual Piaget Hamptons Cup in Watermill, N.Y. The event was co-hosted by polo superstar Nacho Figueras and polo enthusiasts Joe and Diana DiMenna. Competing were Team Credit Suisse and Team St. Regis Hotels & Resorts. Team St. Regis ultimately emerged victorious with a 9–7 win. CEO Philippe Léopold-Metzger was joined by social media stars and friends of the brand, including Hanneli Mustaparta, Harley Viera-Newton, Pari Ehsan of Pari Dust, Athena Calderone of Eye Swoon as well as model Eric Rutherford, celebrity stylist Rachel Zoe and husband Rodger Berman, Figueras’ wife Delfina Blaquier, fashion designer Donna Karan, her daughter Gabby Karan De Felice and son-in law, Gianpaolo De Felice. The event raised $1-million for Robin Hood, New York’s largest poverty-fighting organization. This is the largest amount of funds ever raised at the Piaget Hamptons Cup.
Nacho Figueras, Delfina Blaquier, Diana DiMenna and Joe DiMenna.
Team St. Regis hefts the trophy, with Piaget president Philippe Leopold-Metzger.
16
Fall 2015
news PIAGET POLO
Rachel Zoe at the Piaget Hamptons Cup.
Extremely Piaget high jewelry necklace and earrings.
Scene from the Piaget Hamptons Cup.
Fall 2015
17
previews JUNGHANS MEISTER KALENDER The Junghans Meister Kalender (Calendar) has a moon phase indicator and is equipped with the automatic Caliber J800. The 40.4 mm case is gold-colored PVD-coated stainless steel. Functions include day, date and month, in addition to hours, minutes and seconds. Gold toned hands and markers match the color of the case. The dial, which is detailed with the Junghans star logo, is covered with a convex hard Plexiglass crystal with SICRALAN coating. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters. Junghans Watches USA 855-828-1969 www.junghanswatchesusa.net
MERKAVA DRIVER Manufactured in Switzerland, Merkava is a line of men’s sport watches designed for the active man. Merkava’s guidelines for timepieces adhere to three basic principles: readability, performance and precision. The Driver Chronograph features a stainless steel case, a Swiss quartz movement and a mineral crystal over the dial. It is water resistant to 100 meters. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph totalizers and a date window. The word Merkava means “throne chariot” and refers to the main battle tank of the Israeli army. Merkava Watches Tel: 866-963-3777 www.merkavawatches.com
TAG HEUER F1 DAVID GUETTA The special edition David Guetta is dedicated to TAG Heuer’s newest ambassador, DJ David Guetta. The watch, with two time zones, is designed with travel in mind. It contains the TAG Heuer automatic Caliber 7, with a GMT function and a day/night indicator. Daytime hours are shown in blue, and nighttime hours are in black. The wide, cuff-style strap reflects night club style, and the case is made of blackened titanium. It is water resistant to 200 meters. TAG Heuer 800-321-4832 www.tagheuer.com
18
Fall 2015
New Collection
New RetRo. the New Shape
N E W Y O R K B O U T I Q U E , 8 2 4 M A D I S O N AV E N U E , N E W Y O R K , N Y, ( 2 1 2 ) 4 3 9 - 4 2 2 0 BAL HARBOUR BOUTIQUE, 9700 COLLINS AVENUE, BAL HARBOUR, FL, (305) 865-8765
www•degrisogono•com A L S O AVA I L A B L E AT: LONDON JEWELERS 2046 NORTHERN BLVD MANHASSET, NY (516) 627-7475
WILLIAM BARTHMAN 1118 KINGS HIGHWAY BROOKLYN, NY (718) 375-1818
EAST COAST SUNNY ISLE 16810 COLLINS AVENUE SUNNY ISLES BEACH, FL (305) 947-8883
of
time
previews AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK AUTOMATIC The two-tone Royal Oak Automatic combines brushed 18k pink gold on the bezel and some of the bracelet links, while the case and alternate bracelet links are stainless steel. The silver-toned dial is finished in the model’s signature “grande tapisserie” pattern, and set with pink gold hour markers and hands. Both the markers and hands are treated with luminescent coating. The movement is the automatic Caliber 3120, with a 60-hour power reserve and a bidirectional winding rotor made of 22k gold. Audemars Piguet 888-214-6858 www.audemarspiguet.com
TUDOR NORTH FLAG The North Flag is powered by Tudor’s new automatic Caliber MT5621, with a power reserve of 70 hours. In addition to the hour, minute and central seconds functions, it provides an instant date display, visible through an aperture positioned at 3 o’clock, as well as a power reserve indicator in the form of a disk at 9 o’clock. The Caliber MT5621 is regulated by a variable inertia oscillator with a silicon balance spring, and it is COSCcertified. The case is stainless steel, and the watch is water resistant to 100 meters. Tudor 212-897-9900 www.tudorwatch.com
CHOPARD MILLE MIGLIA The 2015 version of the annual Mille Miglia edition from Chopard embodies the spirit of the legendary Italian car rally. For the first time, the Mille Miglia is equipped with an in-house movement, the Chopard automatic Caliber 01.08-C. The dial has a power reserve indicator reminiscent of a petrol gauge, along with a Rossa Corsa red dial and oversized numerals evoking typical 1950s dashboards. It is a limited edition of 1,000 in steel and 100 in rose gold. Chopard has been a Mille Miglia sponsor since 1988. Chopard USA 800-CHOPARD www.chopard.com
20
Fall 2015
CB141 CANTEEN BRACELET Our new Canteen Bracelet collection steps up in a clean, fresh style. This model features a 2-tone brushed steel case with PVD rose gold plating and a sunray blue dial.
EXPLORE TWSTEEL.COM
previews CITIZEN L CIRCLE OF TIME Sparkling diamonds, mother-of-pearl dials and a playfully positioned index are some of the signature design elements of the Citizen L Circle of Time for ladies. The watch was inspired by the beauty of the changing seasons. Each limited edition piece represents one of the four seasons, featuring colorful crocodile straps with vibrant and unique mother-ofpearl dials. The watch is driven by Eco-Drive technology, which means it is powered by any light, and never needs a battery. The case and bracelet are rose gold-toned stainless steel. Citizen 201-438-8150 www.citizenwatch.com
MOVADO MUSEUM CLASSIC The Movado Museum dial has been acclaimed for the purity of its design and has become a contemporary classic since it was launched in 1947. The brand’s latest version is the new Museum Classic model. While it retains the original artistic simplicity of the dial with its famous dot at 12 o’clock, this variation is enriched with subtle aesthetic details, including a tone-on-tone black lacquered dial. The lugs prolong the flowing lines of the steel case and a black calf skin strap sets the perfect finishing touch. It contains a quartz movement. MOVADO 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com
HARRY WINSTON AVENUE DUAL TIME AUTOMATIC The Harry Winston Avenue Dual Time Automatic is a watch unlike any other. Half the dial indicates a second time zone on a retrograde scale with a visible wheel. Local time is indicated on the other half of the dial with hands crossing through vertical openings in the dial. Both displays are very contemporary, and yet the overall effect is vintage. The style was inspired by a vintage Oldsmobile fuel gauge. The movement, Caliber HW3502, is based on a Blancpain 1150. There is also a version in Zalium, a lightweight zirconium-based alloy. Harry Winston 800-988-4110 www.harrywinston.com
22
Fall 2015
The precision of a Swiss watch, neatly packaged in an airline. In Switzerland, commitment to high quality comes standard. So it goes with us. The combination of personal service, award-winning cuisine, and fully ďƒ&#x;at beds allow you to arrive relaxed. Last but not least because we arrive on time. Precisely on time. For information or reservations for nonstop ďƒ&#x;ights from the USA to Switzerland, contact your travel agent or visit us on swiss.com
previews BAUME & MERCIER CELEBRATES SHELBY COBRA Baume & Mercier’s new Shelby Cobra model commemorates the brand’s partnership with race car manufacturer Shelby Cobra. The watches are a tribute to the 50th anniversary of Shelby’s win at the FIA championship in 1965. The watch collection includes a chronograph powered by a Swiss-made automatic movement. It is characterized by retro accents, classic lines, chronograph and tachymeter functions and specially
crafted hands featuring the Cobra logo. The blue-colored dial is the same hue as the famous Shelby Cobra Guardsman Blue, and sports double racing stripes as a subtle accent. The special hour and minute hands are designed in the shape of the Cobra steering wheel, and as a finishing touch, the back of the watch is engraved with the collection title and Carroll Shelby’s signature. The steel Capeland Shelby Cobra
44 mm chronograph is limited to a quantity of 1,965 pieces in recognition of the year in which Carroll Shelby won the championship. The 18k red gold model is limited to 98 pieces, in tribute to Carroll Shelby’s Cobra racing number. Anyone who purchases the red gold version will receive a complimentary driving experience at the Spring Mountain Race Track in Las Vegas.
Baume & Mercier 800-MERCIER www.baume-et-mercier.com
The Baume & Mercier Shelby Cobra Chronograph in red gold.
24
The Baume & Mercier Shelby Cobra Chronograph in steel.
Fall 2015
BookAc
TimelessElegance Bertram Kalisher announces a forthcoming publication entitled Timeless Elegance, presenting outstanding creations from master artisans in jewelry and timepiece design. The pieces chosen for inclusion in the book were selected through the combined input of respected jewelers from their many years of client experience. These retailers have maintained their reputations and success by recognizing the finest in design and workmanship. The retail jewelers listed below have been chosen to submit their selections of what constitutes timeless elegance in jewelry and watches.
de Boulle Diamond & Jewelry Hamilton Jewelers Hyde Park Jewelers Lee Michaels London Jewelers Lux Bond & Green Manfredi Jewels Martin Jewelers Polacheck’s Jewelers Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry & Watches Tiny Jewel Box Tivol
Denis Boulle Hank Siegel Michael Pollak Lee Berg Mark Udell Marc Green Roberto Chiappelloni Ellen Ramer Stephen Polacheck Susan Eisen Jim Rosenheim Cathy Tivol
The book will debut in selected stores and consumers will have the opportunity to purchase these outstanding pieces from authorized retailers.
BookAccouncement.indd 1
9/15/15 9:54 PM
previews ZENITH TYPE 20 GMT The Type 20 GMT has all the hallmarks of the standard pilot’s watch, including a crown built for gloved handling, a large dial, oversized Arabic numerals and lots of luminescent coating. The watch is powered by a modern, state-of-the-art movement, the brand’s in-house automatic Elite Caliber 693. The Type 20 GMT has a 50-hour power reserve, and functions that include hours, minutes, small seconds and 24-hour dual-time indication. The case is 18k gold. Zenith 866-675-2079 www.zenith-watches.com
BULGARI OCTO SOLOTEMPO Bulgari’s Octo collection is defined by its eight-sided dial shape within a round case. The finely sculpted case has 110 facets, giving the watch an architectural character. The Solotempo model focuses on a pure, minimalist design, with only a small date window aside from hours, minutes and seconds. It is powered by the Bulgari automatic Caliber BVL 191, which has a 42-hour power reserve. The bracelet and 28mm case are made of 18k pink gold. Bulgari 800-BULGARI www.bulgari.com
MONDAINE SBB MINI GIANT The iconic Mondaine Swiss railway watch, the SBB, is known for its clean lines and functional design, branded with the famous Helvetica typeface font and the signature red seconds hand. The SBB Mini Giant is a smaller, 35 mm version of the classic. The absence of lugs creates the illusion of wearing the iconic Swiss Railways clock on the wrist, and it fits tightly to the wrist. It is made of steel, with a Swiss quartz movement. Mondaine 212-244-0911 www.mondaine.com
26
Fall 2015
previews BREITLING Breitling enhances its sports watch collection this year with the Transocean Chronograph 1915 and the Superocean II. The Transocean Chronograph 1915 commemorates the year of Breitling’s invention of the first independent chronograph pushpiece located at 2 o'clock on the case, above the crown. Previous to that, chronographs had only a single pushpiece, in the crown. The Transocean Chronograph is being produced in a 1,915-piece limited series,
equipped with a new manufacture monopusher movement featuring a double column-wheel system (patent pending), a transparent sapphire crystal back and a vintage-inspired dial. The steel case incorporates the famous 1915 pushpiece in a redesigned, elongated, smoothly integrated case. It contains the handwound Breitling Caliber B14, a COSC-certified chronometer. The Superocean II is a new version of a favorite model, featuring a slimmer
profile, a newly designed, rubber-clad bezel, and large, clearly visible numerals. There is a countdown function for the last 15 minutes of dive time and a triangle with a luminescent marker at 12 o’clock on the bezel. The dial is designed for readability, with oversized hands and numerals that glow in the dark. The Ocean Racer rubber strap, with holes, has also been redesigned. The model is powered by the Breitling Caliber 17, a COSC-certified chronometer.
Breitling USA 877-BREITLING www.Breitling.com
The Breitling Superocean II.
The Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1915.
Fall 2015
27
previews MONTBLANC HERITAGE CHRONOMETRIE DUAL TIME The Hertiage Chronometrie Dual Time contains the automatic Caliber MB 29.19, with a 42-hour power reserve. It features rapid adjustment of the local time in hourly increments, as well as date change either forward or backward. Functions include hours, minutes, second time zone and day/night display. There is also a small seconds display at 6 o’clock and a date window at 3 o’clock. The case is polished stainless steel, and the watch is water resistant to 30 meters. Montblanc 800-995-4810 www.montblanc.com
CORUM MISS GOLDEN BRIDGE CERAMIC The ceramic version of Corum’s iconic Miss Golden Bridge celebrates the 35th anniversary of the creation of its “baguette-style” Golden Bridge movement, in 1980. Composed of 140 components arranged in a parallel fashion, the manualwound Caliber CO113 has a 40-hour power reserve. The case is made of white ceramic, and the hand-engraved bridges and plate are made of 18k gold. The crown is located at 6 o’clock. It is water resistant to 30 meters. Corum USA 954-279-122 www.corum.ch
GUCCI DIVE The Gucci Dive is a collection of eight quartz watches that are offered in a multitude of colors and sizes, all of which are water resistant to 200 meters. Sizes include 32 mm, 40 mm or 45 mm, and color options include the distinctive green and red striped Gucci strap. The case is stainless steel, with or without black PVD treatment. Each watch has a unidirectional rotating bezel. The dial is either white lacquer, sunray pink, black lacquer, matte white or matte blue. Gucci Tel: 877-482-2430 www.gucci.com
28
Fall 2015
L
I
M
I
T
E
D
HUM Uhrenmanufaktur GmbH & Co. KG E: hermle@hermle-clocks.com P: +49 7426 601-0 www.hermle-clocks.com
E
D
I
T
I
O
N
M
A
S
T
E
R
P
Hermle North America E: sales@hermleclock.com P: +1 434 946 7751 www.hermleclock.com
I
E
C
E
速
Bulgari makes a magnesium watch
EXPLORES FUTURISTIC MATERIALS AND EXPLORES E-TECHNOLOGY by Carol Besler
O
ne of the most exciting things about the revolution in mechanical timepieces is the explosion of new materials being used in timepiece engineering. During the first golden age of mechanical watchmaking, from the 1940s until the 1970s, almost all watches were made of gold. Since the resurgence of mechanical timekeeping that began in the 1990s, manufacturers have popularized the use of stainless steel, titanium, ceramic and other space age materials. The result is a whole new generation of heirloom timepieces that are built to stand the test of time. Bulgari has been at the forefront of this exploration of new materials. In 1998, it introduced the Diagono Aluminum. “It’s cool design and casual appeal made it a must have,” says watch director Guido Terreni. This was followed by the use of titanium for cases and rubber for straps. “In 2015 we wanted to evolve the concept further, so we looked for another material combination that would perform and at the same time be very exciting from a design point of view.”
30
Fall 2015
The Bulgari Diagono Magnesium in coppery brown
The Bulgari Diagono Magnesium in deep blue
The result is the Diagono Magnesium, a new collection of timepieces with case components and dials made of magnesium, a material used in sports car engines. “It is light and resistant, and it appeared to us as appropriate for a gent’s cool luxury watch,” says Terreni. The watch is actually made with a combination of magnesium, ceramic and a high-grade plastic called PEEK, an acronym for PolyEtherEtherKetone. Magnesium is
a silvery-white, lightweight material that has a high mechanical strength for minimum weight and high dimensional stability. It is used in race cars and aeronautics. Watchmakers appreciate it for its low coefficient of friction and its high resistance to wear without lubrication. It is coated with motorlac, a kind of lacquer that is used to coat and protect the mechanics of sports cars. It also allows for the application of color – the Magnesium
is thus available in dials that can be coppery brown, anthracite grey, deep blue or silver grey. The bezels are ceramic, and the cases are steel. The casebacks are black PVD. The watch is fitted with an automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve, and the strap is rubber. “The motorlac is at the heart of the idea,” says Terreni. As the Aluminum opened the road for black and white watches, the motorlac, which is Fall 2015
31
The Bulgari Diagono Magnesium in anthracite grey
@e
The Bulgari Diagono Magnesium in silver grey
32
Fall 2015
An exploded view showing the case construction of the Bulgari Diagono Magnesium
the lacquer that covers the magnesium engines in the luxury automotive industry, gives us the possibility to have a black and colored watch, using the very sophisticated colors developed in the car industry for the most exigent men. It is a coating that can resist fire, high temperatures and oil.” A special edition of the Magnesium watch is the e-magnesium, recognizable by the in the magn sium indication on the dial. It has “smart watch” func-
tions that include storing personal data like passwords and banking information. It can serve as an electronic passport or an electronic car door opener. It can transfer data, activate a home alarm system and place calls from a smart phone. The dial is made of magnesium, a metallic material that sparkles. It uses an NFC (Near Field Communication) chip, and stores data in what Bulgari calls the Bulgari Vault, an app that encrypts the information.
However, it is not a smart watch, says Terreni. “Bulgari is not interested in entering the smart watch market, as we don’t believe they are luxury items,” he says. “It is, however, the Bulgari answer to a simple question: can technology be useful to a client interested in luxury watches? The answer is yes, as long as we provide satisfaction to luxury needs and not to gadget functions.”
Fall 2015
33
For the first time, Chopard puts an in-house movement in its Mille Miglia annual collectors’ edition by Carol Besler
The dial of the Chopard Mille Miglia reflects the official red color of the race.
34
Fall 2015
hopard is a family owned and operated business, which gives it an independence that allows it to be very innovative in terms of design and highly efficient and responsive in terms of policy and decisions. The company began life in 1860 as one of Switzerland’s original watch manufacturers. It was started in the Swiss Jura town of Sonvilier by Louis-Ulysse Chopard, hence the title of the collection that contains its manufacture movements – L.U.C. In 1963, Paul-AndrÊ Chopard, the grandson of the founder, sold
Chopard to Karl Scheufele III, a goldsmith and watchmaker, who created a highly successful jewelry division within the company. After the quartz revolution, and great success with timepiece collections that have now become iconic (including the iconic Happy Diamonds and Mille Miglia), the company began the process of creating its own mechanical watch calibers. In 1996, Chopard built a manufacture capable of producing movements from start to finish. In doing so, co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele
and his sister, co-president Caroline Scheufele, took the brand back to its fundamental vocation of watchmaking. As a result of its movement making capability Chopard will use in-house movements for the first time this year in its collectible, limited-edition Mille Miglia collection. Raced from 1927 to 1961 as a speed trial on open roads, the Mille Miglia has now become a rally. One of the original goals of the race, which began in 1927, was to stimulate the popularity of motor vehicle use in Italy. Today, it is a scenic 1,000-mile race in Northern Italy from Brescia to Rome and back. This year, 430 classic cars participated in the four-day race. For Chopard, the Mille Miglia is a family adventure. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is a collector of historical cars and a keen competitor in classic rallies. He enlists his own vehicles in this legendary race and drives them himself, alternatively accompanied by his wife
For the first time, the Mille Miglia contains an inhouse Chopard movement.
The Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race edition in stainless steel. Fall 2015
35
The Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race edition in 18k rose gold.
or his good friend Jacky Ickx as codriver. His father, Karl Scheufele III, now chairman of Chopard, also regularly takes part in the competition. This personal connection between the brand and one of the most well-known historical car races in the world dates back to 1988. It was then that Chopard became a partner of the event, a role it has main36
Actor David Gandy wearing the Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition.
tained ever since. Chopard is also the official timekeeper. Each year, Chopard produces a special-edition Mille Miglia timepiece to commemorate the race. This year’s model is equipped with an in-house movement, the Chopard automatic Caliber 01.08-C. The dial has a power reserve indicator reminiscent of a pet-
rol gauge, along with a Rossa Corsa red dial – one of the famous racing colors – and oversized numerals evoking typical 1950s dashboards. It is a limited edition of 1,000 in steel and 100 in rose gold.
Fall 2015
bsw16_
BASELWORLD.COM
The one unmissable trendsetting show for the entire watch and jewellery industry, where all key players unite to unveil their latest creations and innovations. Be a part of this premier event and experience passion, precision and perfection in action.
MARCH 17 – 24, 2016 bsw16_Ad_en_213x276_Chronos_USA_sf.indd 1
10.08.15 14:45
The power of
How a small Fleurier watch company supplies the Swiss watchmaking elite with cases, components and movements – with production capacity to spare by Carol Besler
P
armigiani Fleurier may be one of the smallest watch brands in Switzerland, but it is surely one of the most powerful. While it makes only 6,000 Parmigiani-branded watches a year, it supplies movements, cases, dials and components to about 20 more of Switzerland’s most prestigious watch brands. Owned by the Sandoz Family Foundation, Parmigiani is one of a handful of Swiss watchmakers that truly produce everything in-house. This includes cases, dials, hands, movements, balance wheels and hairsprings, which purists insist is the prerequisite for any claim to producing in-house movements. Parmigiani supplies movements and components to 17 other Swiss luxury watchmakers, including Richard Mille and Bulgari. It makes cases for IWC, Girard-Perregaux, Patek Philippe, MB&F, Corum and Zenith, and it makes dials for Audemars Piguet and A. Lange & Söhne. Given this roster, the quality standard is obviously on the high side in Parmigiani’s five factories (Elwin produces screws; AtoKalpa makes escapements and other micro-components; Quadrance et Habillage makes dials; Les Artisans Boîtiers fabricates cases; and Vaucher makes movements). The business model for watches was, from the beginning, to achieve full integration, hence the acquisition and development of the five manufactures.
38
Fall 2015
The Tonda 1950 Squelette, with a sapphire dial and the ultra slim Caliber PF701
Michel Parmigiani
Prototypes are made with 3D printers. Five years ago, most prototypes were still made of brass, a process that takes a month and costs $5,000 for each one. A 3D printed wax prototype takes 12 hours and costs $300 to make one. It not only reduces the cost of production but allows for greater flexibility and accuracy in the production process. The more prototypes you can produce, the greater the engineering precision. Flavien Gigandet, Parmigiani’s director of international training says the day may come when 3D printing can be achieved with metals, which means cases could be printed rather than milled. Goodbye six-million-dollar CNC machines! The man whose name stands behind this sprawling enterprise is Michel Parmigiani, a humble watchmaker who started his career as a restorer of mechanical movements. He began this endeavor in 1975, the beginning of the quartz revolution, which, over the next
five years, would decimate the Swiss mechanical watch industry (not to be revived until the mid-1990s). “Everyone thought he was a bit crazy,” says Gigandet. Parmigiani not only survived the quartz revolution without having to make a single quartz watch, but he was able to indulge his love for tinkering with mechanical movements by doing restoration and maintenance for private collectors, including the Stern family of
Patek Philippe. His largest client was the Sandoz Family Foundation, which has an extensive collection that includes several automatons. In 1996, Sandoz made Michel Parmigiani’s dreams come true by asking him to create a brand bearing his name that would base its values on authentic high watchmaking. Because Parmigiani Fleurier is intensely self-reliant, with a relatively small production, it has the kind of
The Parmigiani Bugatti Mythe marks the tenth year of partnership between Parmigiani Fleurier and Bugatti. The design is based on the grille of the Bugatti Veyron. The Mythe is one of three special editions that mark the partnership.
Fall 2015
39
This CNC machine can perform 64 functions at once
Decorating the skeletonized plate of the Tonda 1950 Squelette
Parmigiani’s thinnest caliber, PF701, is 2.6mm thick with an integrated platinum micro-rotor. It is used in the Tonda 1950, a classic dress watch. The PF705 (pictured) is used in the Tonda Skeleton, and is also 2.6mm thick
The Parmigiani restoration workshop, where the Sandoz collection is still serviced, is full of mechanical wonders in various states of deconstruction, like the mechanical songbirds in a gilded cage.
creative license enjoyed by the independents. Collections range from the very traditional, with the Tonda 1950, to the wild and utterly unique, like the Bugatti and the Toric. Later this year, the brand will debut the Tonda 1950 tourbillon with a new ultra-thin, 3.4-mm-thick 40
Fall 2015
tourbillon caliber. “Owning your own manufacture allows great flexibility in design and ideas,” says North American president Thierry Collot, who adds that production is likely to increase in increments in the coming years, without reducing
supply to outside brands. “As Parmigiani’s brand recognition grows, so does demand,” he says. “The goal at the beginning was getting the manufacturing model perfect. Now that this is in place, I would expect production to continue to rise.”
ATTENTION TO ACCURACY Montblanc’s new models commemorate the art of chronometry by Carol Besler
M
ontblanc’s new Heritage Chronométrie Collection consists of five models, from collectors’ pieces to affordable complications. The collection honors the art of accurate timekeeping, defined by the Swiss as Chronométrie. Specifically, they are a tribute to marine chronometers, ultra-accurate instruments that helped 19th century ship captains navigate the seas. The collection is inspired by the exploration of Vasco da Gama, the first to find a southern seaway to India by rounding the Cape of Good Hope. Da Gama did not have a marine chronometer to guide him, but navigated using a nocturlabium, a primitive predecessor of the sextant that navigated according to the stars. For da Gama, finding a sea route to India was a trade issue: it enabled him to bypass Arabian, Persian, Turkish and Venetian middlemen, who had made it extremely expensive for Europeans to import valuable spices such as pepper and precious stones. The collection was also inspired by a 1940s timepiece made by Minerva, the brand’s boutique movement maker located in Villeret in the Swiss Jura. Minerva was a pioneer of chronograph movements and still maintains a by-hand, pre-industrial workshop, making fewer than 1,000 watches a year, many of them bespoke. The five models in this collection are outstanding for their range, including what may be some of the most affordable complications on the market from a luxury watchmaker. The pieces extend from the collectible to the highly affordable: from the Dual Time in steel to the Complete Calendar. All of these timepieces are rated as chronometers according to Montblanc’s own in-house testing facility, where each watch undergoes the 500-hour Laboratory Test 500. Like most chronometry tests, it simulates daily wear and harsh conditions – in this case, the entire first year's life cycle of a timepiece. 42
Fall 2015
The Heritage Chronométrie Dual Time Vasco da Gama The Heritage Chronométrie Dual Time Vasco da Gama, with automatic Caliber MB 29.19, has a second time zone and day/night display. The date is linked to local time and can be changed forward or backward. The series is limited to 238 watches as an allusion to the Cape Point Peak lighthouse, which was built at 238 meters above sea level at the Cape of Good Hope.
The Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph, with Caliber MB R230. The ExoTourbillon escapement was originally developed by Minerva for its Villeret collection. Here, it has been integrated into Montblanc’s monopusher automatic chronograph caliber. In this construction, the large balance is independent of the tourbillon cage. This means that the cage can remain smaller than the balance, therefore requiring 30% less energy. It also enhances the precision, which is the goal in a chronometer. The movement has a stop-second function for precision setting, one of only two or three tourbillons on the market to have this feature.
The Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph
The Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Vasco da Gama Limited Edition of 60 pieces has all the features of the non-limited piece described above, but with the following extras. It has an engraving of Vasco da Gama’s floating flagship, the São Gabriel on the sapphire crystal over the caseback. The dial is much more embellished: the upper part is made of dark blue aventurine, a mineral with sparkling crystals. Set into it is a diamond polished into Montblanc’s patented cut. The date display subdial is decorated in a flinqué guilloché pattern. The series is limited to 60 watches in reference to the 60-man crew of the São Gabriel.
The Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Vasco da Gama Limited Edition Fall 2015
43
The Heritage Chronométrie Annual Calendar Vasco da Gama has a moon phase indicator that tracks the lunar phases for the Southern Hemisphere in tribute to Vasco da Gama’s exploration there. The series, with Caliber MB 29.18, is limited to 238 watches as an allusion to the Cape Point Peak lighthouse, which was built at 238 meters above sea level at the Cape of Good Hope.
C
M
Y
The Heritage Chronométrie Annual Calendar Vasco da Gama
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
The Heritage Chronométrie Complete Calendar Vasco da Gama is similar to the Annual Calendar except that it needs to be adjusted on months that do not have 31 days. It contains the automatic Caliber MB 29.16, with a 42-hour power reserve. It also has a moon phase display featuring the phases in the Southern Hemisphere. Each piece has an alligator-leather strap crafted by the Montblanc Pelletteria, Montblanc’s own leather manufacture in Florence, Italy.
The Heritage Chronométrie Complete Calendar Vasco da Gama 44
Fall 2015
2
9/15/15
3:12 PM
Many color combinations available
Hazard_4_Chronos_Ad_October_2015.pdf
night
night
night
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
What is Tritium Illumination?
®
All Hazard 4® hands/indicators glow continuously powered by government regulated technology combining helium-3 gas (tritium/H3), glass tubes, and phosphors into self-contained mini-lamps (expertly Swiss-made in many colors.) Tritium bulbs don’t charge by battery, sun, or flashlight, unlike other watches using simple luminescent paint or battery-run film. They don’t fade overnight like those paints, and require no button pushing, or battery to exhaust. Tritium lights are used only for critical applications like military night-sights and since our watches are used by those for whom timing can determine survival or catastrophe, we insist on only the best.
How it Works
300M/990’ SWISS MOVT
1 2 3 4
Small glass tubes on the watch dial/hands are internally color-phosphor coated, filled w/ energetic H3 gas & laser-sealed. H3 electrons excite the coating to glow.
1
H3
G§}
4
Specs
2 3
-
material: natural titanium or p.v.d black case diameter: 50 mm titanium case is light, strong, hypoallergenic scratch-resist anti-reflective sapphire crystal moisture wicking map texture under rubber strap & many buckle holes keep wrist dry - machined bezel markers won’t scratch off - screw-down case-back and crown - big, high-vis, 3D military stencil-cut numerals - unique 24-hour military time scale is integral - unique, user-service fast-change strap pins
Includes - extra n.a.t.o. strap - thermoformed travel/display case
A LWAY S I N M OT I O N
The Movado 1881 Automatic 46
Fall 2015
Efraim Grinberg leads the Movado Group into a new era, with a heritage of innovative design and a charitable soul
E
fraim Grinberg, chairman and CEO of the Movado Group, was honored recently by the UJA (United Jewish Appeal) - Federation of New York’s Fashion Division. More than 600 fashion industry executives gathered to honor Grinberg and two other executives at the event, which
by Carol Besler
was also a fundraiser. It raised $1.6-million for the UJA-Federation’s annual campaign to support nearly 100 nonprofit organizations. Movado is widely recognized for its commitment to the arts, an association that is intrinsic to the brand’s identity. Grinberg is known for his active affilia-
tions with numerous arts organizations, including Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts where he serves on the Board of Directors. He is also on the Board of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, which works to promote ethical conduct in the jewelry business. “We have always had a special fo-
Movado Museum Color Dials Fall 2015
47
cus on supporting the arts and believe it is our obligation to give back and to be socially responsible,” says Grinberg, who represents the second generation of his family to run the Movado Group. His father, Gedalio “Gerry” Grinberg was an entrepreneurial, college-educated watch distributor from Havana, who fled Castro’s revolution in 1960, moving to the U.S. with his young family. In 1965, he founded the North American Watch Corporation (NAWC), a distribution company that handled brands such as Piaget and Corum. It went public in 1993, and its name was changed to Movado Group, Inc. in 1996. Gerry Grinberg was a watch industry visionary who early in his career recognized the potential cachet of luxury watches, and marketed them accordingly. “Movado’s DNA is based on the incredible power that comes from the intersection of innovation and design,” says Efraim Grinberg. “The name
Movado means ‘always in motion,’ and this legacy is best illustrated by the 100 patents and 200 awards the brand has received since its inception.” Under the leadership of Gerry Grinberg, the North American Watch Corporation had acquired the Movado brand in 1982 – and with it, one of the most iconic watch dials of all time. The Movado Museum Dial, the brand’s signature design, was designed in 1947 by Nathan George Horwitt, a Bauhaus-influenced industrial designer, writer, photographer, inventor, political activist and farmer. In 1960, New York’s Museum of Modern Art accepted his watch dial into its permanent collection, and it subsequently became known as the Museum Dial. Shortly afterward, Switzerland’s Movado watch company reached an agreement with Horwitt to use the dial design in the Movado line. Gerry Grinberg acquired the company in 1982, and by 1987,
The Movado Artists’ Series Watch, designed by Andy Warhol
48
Fall 2015
Movado sales had reached $50 million. Since then, Movado, with its Museum watch has become the core brand and flagship of Grinberg’s company. Movado has also become widely recognized for its art watches, designed in collaboration with luminaries of the 20th century art world. The foundation for the series was laid in 1983 with the release of Andy Warhol Times 5. It was a huge success, and was followed by limited edition timepieces designed by kinetic artist Yaacov Agam, painter/ sculptor Arman, painter/printmaker James Rosenquist, Swiss artist Max Bill, Brazilian-born Pop-artist Romero Britto and, more recently, painter/artist Kenny Scharf, a striking signature strap watch by the fashion design team Proenza Schouler, and a special edition Movado BOLD watch with colorful “drip dot” dials by fashion designer Chris Benz. Combining the century-old skills of Swiss watchmaking with the
Efraim Grinberg
The Original Museum Dial design
individual artist’s creative vision, these exclusive timepieces stand as highly collectable works of art and watchcraft. Today, the Movado Group manufactures and markets not only Movado watches but also the luxury brands Ebel and Concord, and the licensed brands Tommy Hilfiger,
Coach, HUGO BOSS, Juicy Couture, Lacoste and Scuderia Ferrari. Gerry Grinberg has been described as a marketing genius, who pioneered the development of luxury watches in the United States. He passed away in 2009. Named president in 1990, Efraim Grinberg oversaw the company’s initial
public offering in 1993, and has been responsible for building Movado into a global enterprise. He was born in Havana, Cuba in 1958 and is a graduate of Brown University. “My father taught me to be passionate about my work, to inspire others and to lead with excellence,” says Grinberg. Fall 2015
49
TIME Tiffany & Co. is known worldwide as a jeweler. It is also a legendary watchmaker.
The new Tiffany CT60 in stainless steel with a grey soleil dial.
T
he Tiffany CT60 timepiece is inspired by founder Charles Lewis Tiffany and New York City, where Tiffany & Co. first opened its doors in 1837. The timepieces are infused with the energy and ambition summed up in the famous phrase – “New York Minute: 60 seconds of pure possibility.” The design is inspired by a Tiffany & Co. gold watch given to U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1945. This is a full collection, with many versions, all containing automatic movements. The watches, for men and women,
50
Fall 2015
The new Tiffany CT60, with diamonds in a stainless steel case and bracelet and an automatic movement.
include a chronograph in stainless steel with self-winding mechanical movement, blue soleil finishing and silver poudré numerals. An 18k rose gold calendar watch with a 42-hour power reserve, shock-absorption system and sapphire crystal display back, is created in a limited edition of 60, each numbered on the caseback. Other timepieces include a 3-hand timepiece in 18k rose gold with gold poudré numerals and diamond bezel. The collection also includes “Tiffany East West models,” with a rectangular shape in stainless steel and
a black, white or blue dial. Tiffany & Co. began selling watches in 1847. In 1854, Tiffany & Co. signed an exclusive agreement to co-brand watches with Patek Philippe. By 1874, Tiffany had built a new fourstory, state-of-the-art manufacture at Geneva’s Place Cornavin. In response to the increasing demand for gold pocket watches, the company began to make advanced movements that chimed the hour and quarter-hour. It also made diamond-encrusted lapel watches and timepieces embellished with pastoral
The new Tiffany CT60, with blue soleil dial on a blue alligator strap.
The new Tiffany CT60 Calendar watch in 18k rose gold, with an automatic movement and a black alligator strap.
The Tiffany Atlas watch, designed in 1983, inspired by the Roman numerals of the Atlas clock.
scenes and mythic figures in enamel, with fine scrolls engraved in gold. Through the years, Tiffany pioneered a number of important watchmaking innovations, receiving patents for advances in watch movements and hand settings. The Tiffany Timer, for example, was an early stopwatch introduced in 1868, and was used for engineering and scientific purposes, as well as for sporting events. Renowned
The new Tiffany CT60 Chronograph in 18k rose gold with a brown soleil dial.
The Steamerica, created by Tiffany in 1993, inspired by the industrial movement of the 1930s.
Tiffany gemologist George Kunz (the founder of the gem Kunzite) patented a luminescent green paint for numerals and hands. By the 1880s, Tiffany had become a world-renowned jeweler and watchmaker, with a reputation for the finest craftsmanship and commitment to customer service. One aspect of that service was the weekly regulation of over 400 clocks in the homes of Tiffany custom-
ers, which began with the adoption of standard time in 1883. At the 1876 Philadelphia World’s Fair, Tiffany was honored for its watch display. A centerpiece of its winning exhibit at the 1889 Paris World’s Fair was the Apple blossom lapel watch, a diamond and enamel creation by chief designer Paulding Farnham. Tiffany also received medals for men’s pocket watches and women’s gem-encrusted laFall 2015
51
pel watches at the 1893 Chicago Fair. Tiffany’s exhibit at the 1939 New York World’s Fair featured an astonishing array of elegant diamond and platinum cocktail watches, as well as timepieces in the striking “cocktail style.” Two watches introduced in the 20th century were inspired by the
country where Tiffany was founded. The Streamerica reflects the gleaming forms and metallic surfaces of the 1930s American industrial design movement. The Atlas watch was introduced in 1983 as a tribute to the public clock at the entrance of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store, and has since become an icon. The
watch features the collection’s signature three-dimensional, diamond-cut Roman numerals. The new CT60 collection represents the continuation of an important history in timekeeping for Tiffany.
The Tiffany Timer pocket watch was created in 1868.
A woman’s gem-encrusted lapel watch, shown at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893.
An archival pocket watch made by Tiffany.
52
Fall 2015
In Deep Water The divers’ watch was the original tool watch, developed for professionals by Carol Besler The Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000 is water resistant to 4,000 feet, or 1,220 meters. The 40 mm case is made of 904L steel, with a screw down caseback and winding crown. The unidirectional bezel is made of scratch-resistant cerachrom, with numerals coated in platinum. It has a stop-seconds for precise timing.
I
n the late 1960s, a handful of watch companies vied to be the first to develop dive watch technology, initially for military and professional divers. Only a handful of brands took on the task of making a watch water-and pressure-resistant because it wasn’t commercially viable before the boom in water sports and diving for leisure. It wasn’t until the late 1960s that serially produced divers’ watches began to appear. Even those were used mainly by professional divers who needed watches that could accompany them on saturation dives of up to 1,000 meters. Saturation divers work underwater in a pressurized environment for long periods of time before decompressing to the surface, breathing in a mixture of oxygen and other gases, including helium. One of the problems with early watches used for saturation diving was that a build-up of helium gas could occur inside the case, often causing the glass over the dial to pop off. This led to the development of the helium valve, which could release the buildup of gas inside the case. 54
Fall 2015
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Navy SEALs was designed with the input of U.S. Navy SEALs. It is water resistant to 300 meters, with luminous display and a unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel.
Rolex was instrumental in developing the helium valve, working mainly in collaboration with the French diving company Comex (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises). One memorable dive in 1960 tested a Rolex Deepsea prototype to a depth of 11,000 meters in the Mariana Trench, descending on board the Trieste, a deep-diving research bathyscaphe. Rolex also worked with Comex to test a Sea-Dweller equipped with helium valves, helping to further develop cases that could withstand the pressure on deep dives. Commercially, Rolex debuted the Sea-Dweller in 1967, with 600 meter water resistance. The latest version, the Sea-Dweller 4000, introduced in 2013, is water resistant to 1,220 meters. Blancpain contributed to the development of the dive watch with its Fifty Fathoms, originally developed for the French Navy’s Ecole des Nageurs de combat (Combat Diving School). The first model debuted in 1953, with a highly legible dial coated with luminescent markings and a unidirectional rotating bezel, now trademarks of the dive watch. It had a screwed-on caseback and screwed crown with a double o-ring for water resistance. It was automatic, a feature of many divers’ watches today in order to prevent wearing out the crown seals by having to regularly unscrew the screwed-in crown to wind it. It was named the Fifty Fathoms after the British measurement of 50 fathoms, or approximately 91.45 meters, which at the time was considered the maximum depth a diver could achieve with the oxygen mixture then in use. The Fifty Fathoms was available to civilians beginning in 1960, and has evolved since then. Today, it is a full collection, including a Tourbillon and Chronograph, and the Fifty Fathoms X. The collection culminated last year with the Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe, which is water resistance to 300 meters and contains a mechanical depth gauge. Jaeger-LeCoultre also made a name for itself in divers’ watch technology with the Memovox Deep Sea in 1959, the world’s first divers’ watch with an alarm function that could remind the diver when it was time to return to the surface. Jaeger-LeCoultre followed up with the Memovox Polaris in 1965, also with an alarm function, along with 200-meter water resistance and an internal rotating bezel. A follow-up model, with a rubber and steel strap, was introduced in 1968, and the Memovox is still in the collection. Seiko was also keen to develop a professional diver’s watch, and introduced the 150M Diver in 1965. Like most divers’ watches at the time, it was aimed at professionals, and could descend to 150 meters. Seiko followed up in 1967 with the 300M Diver, but aimed to go deeper. After seven years of research, the company proudly debuted the Professional Div-
The Blancpain Bathyscaphe Ocean Commitment is fitted with a high-frequency chronograph movement, the 36,000 vph Caliber 5200-0240-52A. The ceramic unidirectional bezel features Liquidmetal hour markers. The watch is limited to 250 pieces and Blancpain will donate a portion of the sales proceeds to oceanic conservation and research initiatives.
The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Professional 1000 celebrates Seiko’s 50th anniversary of creating its first dive watch. It is water resistant to 1,000 meters, and features Seiko’s trademark two-layer case construction that is impermeable to helium. The use of ceramic for the outer shell enhances shock resistance and prevents unintentional rotation of the bezel. It contains the Seiko automatic Caliber 8L35.
Fall 2015
55
56
The Italo Fontana Chimera 46 SS Skeleton is made by the creator of the U-Boat divers’ watches. The industrial style case is made of blackened stainless steel, and features include an oversized crown protector, a chronograph function and water resistance to 100 meters.
The Franc Vila FVi62 Intrepido Superligero Diver in titanium, with a rotating dive-time device and a helium escape valve. It contains the chronograph Caliber FV62, with bridges and plates made of lightnium, an aluminum based alloy that withstands pressure. It is water resistant to 300 meters. The strap is made of extra-strength silicone.
The Sinn T1 B is made of high-strength titanium, which has exceptional resistance to salt water, and a matt-blue electroplated dial. The surface of the unidirectional rotating bezel is hardened with scratchresistant Tegiment technology. It is water resistant to 200 meters. A large, arrow-shaped minute hand ensures legibility.
Citizen’s Promaster Professional Diver is water resistant to 200 meters. It has a unidirectional rotating elapsed-time bezel, anti-reflective mineral crystal and it is driven by Eco-drive technology.
Fall 2015
In Deep Water
The IWC Aquatimer Deep Three, with a titanium case, mechanical depth gauge, an internal/external bezel combination, a hacking seconds, and a maximum depth gauge to a maximum of 50 meters. It is water resistant to 100 meters. It features a complete backup system for the dive computer. The automatic movement has a 42-hour power reserve.
er’s 600M Titanium in 1975. It was the first divers’ watch in the world to have a titanium case. It was shock-resistant, corrosion-proof and anti-magnetic. It was built for saturation diving, and could operate at 600 meters without a helium valve. This model would even-
The Cartier Calibre Diver meets the stringent ISO 6425 standard for dive watches. Among many other tests, it is given a salinity test to ensure the watch and strap’s durability in sea water with a mixture of sand. It is water resistant to 300 meters and contains the Cartier Caliber 1904 MC. Case options include rose gold or stainless steel.
tually be depth rated to 1,000 meters. The ISO 6425 standard was developed with Seiko’s own standard as its base. The invention of the regulator and compressed-air bottles marked the start of scuba diving as a leisure activity. This, and the growth of wa-
ter sports in general, consolidated the need for watches with secure water resistance and shock absorption systems. Today, almost every major brand has a collection of divers’ watches.
Fall 2015
57
Timepiece Timeshare by Carol Besler
Timepieces from the Virtuoso collection include the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980-1A and the Lange 1 by A. Lange Sohne.
T
he new trend in luxury is “collaborative consumption,” which means that instead of buying a private jet, a vacation home or classic car, you can get the same luxury experience through shared-ownership and club options that effectively give you fractional ownership. Thanks to Eleven James, luxury timepieces are now part of this trend.
58
Fall 2015
The concept is targeted both to those who can’t afford a luxury timepiece – for now – and also to those who can, but who want to test-drive a piece, or several pieces, before making a commitment. It works like a club, with packages that give members access to hundreds of top branded watches within four price-based collections: Enthusiast (for watches valued at $3,000-$7,000); Aficionado (for
watches valued at $7,000-$15,000); Connoisseur (for watches valued at $15,000-$30,000); and Virtuoso (for watches valued at $30,000-$50,000). Within these collections, members choose how many watches they would like to receive per year: three watches for four months at a time (3x4), four watches for three months at a time (4x3) or six watches for two months at a time (6x2).
Yearning to own that $50,000 timepiece? Eleven James lets you experience your Grail watch
Timepieces in the Connoisseur collection include the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Memovox and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore "Panda".
The cost represents a fraction of what it would take to buy the watches. Enthusiast members pay between $149 and $189 per month, depending on the rotation. Members in the Aficionado plan pay $299 to $369. Connoisseur members pay from $579 to $719, and the Virtuoso plan costs $999 to $1,259. The name “Eleven James” is a reference to everyone’s favorite secret
agent. “It comes from something I had heard about movie sets for the old James Bond films,” says founder Randy Brandoff. “They would present Bond (Sean Connery) with 11 different watches/gadgets for potential use in that movie. I thought James Bond was the ideal, prototypical member, and the choice of eleven different watches was notionally what we were doing, so it hit me, ‘Eleven James.’”
Brandoff, who was previously chief marketing officer of NetJets, a fractional private jet ownership company, says the idea for a watch membership club had been in the works for about eight years before officially launching in January, 2014. The watches are acquired directly from brands or alternately from retailers, collectors and at watch shows and auctions, says Brandoff. They are all Fall 2015
59
Timepiece Timeshare
Timepieces in the Aficionado collection include the Panerai Luminor 1950 Flyback (PAM 524) and the Rolex Daytona.
top brands. In the Enthusiast collection, current pieces include a Tudor Heritage Black Bay and a Rolex Datejust1603; pieces in the Aficionado collection include a Panerai Luminor 1950 Flyback and a Rolex Daytona; in the Connoisseur collection, there is an Audemars Piguet Royal Offshore “Panda” and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Memovox; and in the Virtuoso collection, an A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 and a Patek Philippe 60
Fall 2015
Nautilus 5980-1A. In addition to the collections, members have access to exclusive events, a membership-to-ownership program, exclusive offers from Eleven James’ alliance partners, Concierge pickup and delivery services and personal collection assistance. “Membership provides the collector with the opportunity to experience wearing a coveted watch before pulling the trigger on their next pur-
chase,” says Brandoff. “It also allows members to revitalize their existing collections, and to enjoy a level of variety on a consistent basis that might not otherwise be possible. For new enthusiasts and those curious about luxury watches, Eleven James provides a modern way to experience and enjoy luxury watches without a substantial financial commitment,” he says.
120 YEAR OLD SWISS MANUFACTURING THAT GOES TO DEPTHS OTHERS DREAM OF
Tested & Proven to Dive Over 9,600 ft Deep and Keep Ticking
OCEAN EDGE 3000m/9900ft | 47mm ETA2824 | Helium Escape Valve | Anti-Reflective Sapphire Crystal Black Carbon Dial/SuperLuminova | Case/Bracelet Design with Allen Screws | Bracelet, Orange Carbon & Rubber Strap Interchangeable Tavannes waTch co (Usa) LLc | P.o. Box 85 | vaLencia, Pa 16059 | 412.600.4240 inFo@Tavannes-waTch.coM | www.Tavannes-waTch.coM
To dive for
Designed in America New for men & women in 3 sizes $49 for more information, visit 40Nine.com,
40NINE.COM
chronos_spring_summer15_40nine.indd 1
e-mail Sherri@40Nine.com, or call 800-360-2586
3/31/15 8:41 AM
LPI Pri
Swiss Watch Winding Technology Your watches are an investment, why not protect your investment with Swiss watch winding technology as selected and recommended by leading luxury Swiss watch brands.
Watch and Jewelry Safes with Swiss Watch Winding Technology. Contact Luxury Products International: Tel.: (+1) 347-329-2971 Email: info@luxuryproductsinternational.com Facebook: Luxury Products International
www.lpi-luxuryproducts.com 8:41 AM
LPI Print Aus 2015.indd 1
04/09/2015 09:26:02
20
Amelia Island... YEARS ON Article and Photography by: Denis L. Tanney, Automotive Editor
T
wenty years ago, Amelia Island Concours burst onto the car show scene. No one expected much, least of all its founder, Bill Warner. He is a lover of cars, a collector himself, an established motorsports photographer, and a super nice guy. The most he could have hoped for back then was a decent turnout for the few cars coming. No one could foresee that twenty years later his little idea would become one of the top
A row of fabulous Corvette race cars.
64
Fall 2015
two Concours in the United States. 1996 was just the start of a huge unknown future. Each year a significant driver has been honored as the center of attention. That first year Warner invited the world famous British race driver Sir Stirling Moss to be his honoree and Susie Moss, now Lady Moss, of course accompanied her husband. Twenty years on, Warner invited Sir Stirling to be this year’s honoree, for this special anniversary.
One of the great achievements of this Concours is the money raised for charity. Over 2.5 million dollars has brought help to the Hospice of Northeast Florida, Spina Bifida Association of Jacksonville, The Navy Marine Corp Relief Society, Micah’s Place (for abused woman), and the Shop With Cops Program of Fernandina Beach and Nassau County. This is a remarkable achievement for a car show.
The show features everything from turn of the century cars and buggies to “What Were They Thinking”, a selection of bizarre one-off creations, to concept cars from the 1950’s and cars from every era and decade including world-class race cars. This is one show that has something that can be found on everyone’s favorites list. Located in the northeast portion of Florida it is on the property of the Ritz Carlton Hotel on Amelia Island. The area looks much more like southern Georgia than Florida, lending a soft, green wispy warm feeling to this show. One might call it a typical Southern comfort place. No palm trees or typical Florida landscape. Just willowy large trees, some shedding Spanish moss, others tall enough to shade large areas and lots of lush green foliage making up the surroundings. The people are kind and mellow and the entire atmosphere is one of relaxation and calmness. It is perfect spot for a high end car show. The featured marques for this year were the famous Stutz automobiles and the Porsche 914/916 sports car models. Some 21 examples of the Stutz marquee graced the 18th hole of the Ritz golf course along with a select group of nine Porsche 914 and 914/916 sports cars. Only one of the original eleven 916 models made
Best in Show winner in the Concours d’ Elegance division was this 1930 Cord L29 Brooks Stevens Speedster owned by Judy and Ed Schoenthaler.
its debut at Amelia this year. The 916 was created as an offshoot to the 914, (built to compete with the Ferrari Dino of the day), but more powerful with a sexier body style and luxe interior. It never made it into production. The model was scratched prior to the Paris Auto Show in 1971.
Best in Show winner in the Concours de Sport division was the 1932 Alfa Romeo 8–c 2300Zagato Spider of David Sydorick.
Some 312 cars in total graced the lush manicured lawn this year and any one of them could have been the Best of Show in sports or Concours categories. All of them were impeccably prepared and shown and as always made the job of the judges that much more difficult. Warner hand selects his judges, and this year he had over 100 esteemed members of the automotive world help make the final decisions. As always, prior to the award ceremony, Warner stands with microphone and nothing else and recites the names and accomplishments of each and every judge for the crowd. That has always amazed me and he does it year in and year out with no notes, nothing but his memory; an amazing feat to be sure. The awards given range from class winners to Amelia winners, but the top prizes are the two finalists that vie for the most prestigious trophies. This year a 1932 Alfa Romeo 8-c 2300 Zagato Spider of David Sydorick took top honors as Best in Show-Concours de Sport and a 1930 Cord L29 Brooks Stevens Speedster, owned by Judy and Ed Schoenthaler, took Best in ShowConcours d’ Elegance. Amelia represents the highest level of car show. There is so much more that happens during the weekend that if you are not there by early Thursday you could miss a great deal. The RM-Sotheby’s auction now stretches over three full days, Fall 2015
65
The Most Historically Significant Race Car Driven by Sir Stirling Moss was awarded to this 1955 Mercedes Benz W196 S300 SLR (#722). The car was brought to this event by the MB Classic, the factory restoration plant in Stuttgart, Germany.
packing a full auditorium of buyers and lookers, and providing great deals and record prices for wonderful cars. On the grounds or in a huge tent before and during the auction itself, there is the ability for ticket holders to walk the grounds and see most of the cars that will be going up for auction. In other parts of the venue, traditionally there are two seminars, one each on Friday and Saturday. This year the former was titled The Design DNA of Iconic Cars and the latter, The Car Guys of Television. Both brought full houses of spectators. A poster signing is held for the featured artist. Several manufacturers, like Jaguar and Mercedes and Porsche, offer the public opportunities to take a short driving experience in their new cars. And, on Saturday morning one can enjoy Cars and Coffee at the Concours featuring additional cars not being shown on Sunday on the field. There is also a silent auction, a Breitling Watch reception, and for an additional donation a Mercedes66
Fall 2015
The row of one of the featured marques, The Stutz. The first car is the 1929 Model M by Lancefield. It is owned by Irina and Richard Mitchell.
The 1932 Stutz Super Bearcat took Best in Class. The car came to the show from the North Collection.
Best in Class - Race Cars, (pre-war-1959), went to this 1936 Bear Special Indy Champ Car, part of the DL George Historic Motorcar Collection.
The Buddy Palumbo Award (the fictional lead character in the BS Levy novels) for The Car Restored by and Driven to the Show by its owner was this 1933 Dymaxion from the Lane Motor Museum in Nashville, Tennessee.
Fall 2015
67
This 1965 Rolls Royce Silver Cloud III Convertible owned by Steve Wolf took an Amelia Award in its class.
The 1971 Porsche 914/6 GT Werk race car of Terri and Jeff Zwart took Best In Class. The Porsche 914-916 was one of the featured marques and models this year.
Benz Gala Dinner on Saturday night. There is even a fashion show presented each year just prior to the awards ceremony. In other words, there is enough going on each day to keep everyone happy and busy. The annual photography exhibit was eliminated this year for the first time due to the overwhelming response to the RM-Sotheby’s auction’s extra day and the need for extra space; but Warner promises that it will return in 2016. This is an event that is a delight to visit as well as cover as a journalist. Everyone is treated very well and the field is jammed with spectators, owners, judges and general lovers of cars from as early as 9am until late in the day. The awards ceremony begins around 1pm and lasts all the way through the afternoon, finishing up near 5:30pm. No fans seem to 68
Fall 2015
The 20th Anniversary Honoree is Sir Stirling Moss with Lady Moss and the Concours founder, Bill Warner.
20
Amelia Island... YEARS ON
This outrageous two tone red 1929 Mercedes Benz Armbruster bodied model S owned by Deborah and Arturo Keller took the Mercedes Benz Star of Excellence Award for Most Elegant MB.
The wonderful gator upholstery of the 1929 MB Model S is almost too nice to sit on.
want to leave until the Best of Shows are presented and those BOS are trumpeted in by medieval long horns played by three tuxedo attired gentleman announcing the winners with a special flare. It is twenty years on, and this show
still rocks the car world. Bill Warner created a brilliant affair with no place to go but up. If the last twenty years are any sign of what the next twenty might bring, we can keep attracting the younger folk into this wonderful hobby and continue
to preserve our automotive history. It is such a perfect weekend. You need to experience this: once is never enough.
Fall 2015
69
Museum Watch ALBERTO BURRI: THE TRAUMA OF PAINTING Guggenheim, New York through January 6, 2016
This exhibition of Burri’s work, the most comprehensive ever mounted, showcases the beauty and complexity of the artist’s “process-based works” as well as his use of unconventional materials and collage.
ANCIENT EGYPT TRANSFORMED
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York through January 24, 2016 Bringing together over 200 objects from several collections and the museum itself, this look at the Middle Kingdom of Ancient Egypt features sculptures and jewelry that have never been shown before in the United States.
PAINTING THE MODERN GARDEN: MONET TO MATISSE
Cleveland Art Museum through January 5, 2016
Claude Monet, Spring Flowers, 1864, oil on canvas. 116.8 x 90.5 cm. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Gift of the Hanna Fund. Photo © The Cleveland Museum of Art.
PICASSO SCULPTURE
Museum of Modern Art, New York through February 7, 2016 This sweeping survey of Picasso’s innovative sculpture is the first of its kind in decades and presents more than 100 works. Straying from his classical training in painting, Picasso found more freedom to experiment with his periodic work in three dimensions. 70
Fall 2015
Monet was an avid horticulturist who was inspired to paint by the flowers in his gardens. This exhibition examines the role of the garden in his art and that of his contemporaries.
INTIMATE IMPRESSIONISM FROM THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART Seattle Art Museum through January 10, 2016
This touring collection from the NGA’s topnotch holding makes it way to Seattle with 68 works from master impressionists and post-impressionists, such as Manet, Renoir, Degas, Cézanne, Pissarro, and van Gogh.
MARK ROTHKO: A RETROSPECTIVE Museum of Fine Arts, Houston through January 24, 2016
A foremost figure of the Abstract Expressionist movement, Rothko “explored the tragic and sublime,” his work a testament to the humanism he brought to modern painting. This retrospective of 60 paintings traces his full career arc.
FRANK GEHRY
Los Angeles County Museum of Art through March 20, 2016 The revolutionary aesthetics of the architect, as well as his relationship with cities and their culture, is explored in this comprehensive exhibition of Gehry’s work, which charts his work from the early 1960s to the present, focusing on the themes of urbanism and the development of new systems of design and fabrication.
Mark Rothko, No. 9, 1948, oil and mixed media on canvas, National Gallery of Art, Washington, gift of The Mark Rothko Foundation, Inc. © 1998 by Kate Rothko Prizel and Christopher Rothko
LACMA: Frank Gehry, Wall Disney Concert Hall, 1989-2003 (competition 1988), project model, 16 × 36 × 48 in. © and image courtesy Gehry Partners, LLP, Los Angeles
Fall 2015
71
AM
D
N WATCH G UI ICA R L E
WHERE TO FIND THE WORLD'S FINEST WATCHES
The American Watch Guild was founded as an unprecedented way to recognize those quality retailers, manufacturers and affiliated service companies whose standard of excellence has set them apart in the fine watch industry. The Guild drew its inspiration from the tradition of the medieval guilds. Those associations of artisans and merchants, from goldsmiths to weavers, were formed to preserve the professionalism within their crafts and to assure buyers of quality by displaying the coveted symbol of their guild. Today, more than ever, with over six billion dollars in counterfeit products on the market annually, membership in the Guild can separate true value from fictitious value. Often, gold jewelry offered for sale does not reflect the Karat marking on the item, and diamonds all too often turn out to be merely zircons. Watch movements are frequently of inferior quality as well.
Membership in the American Watch Guild carries with it the commitment to the following criteria: – Authorized agents of the watch brand – Trained watch sales personnel – Factory authorized service for maintenance and repair of watches – Maintenance of a channel for ethical distribution that respects the integrity of the watch
For more information, please visit www.americanwatchguild.com
When you visit one of our Guild Stores, please ask for your complimentary copy of How To Buy A Watch and The Care and Service of Fine Watches.
72
Fall 2015
AM
D
N WATCH G UI ICA L ER
Directory of American Watch Guild Authorized Retailers
ALABAMA Mountain Brook
Barton-Clay Fine Jewelers 2701 Cahaba Road Mountain Brook, AL 35223 205-871-7060 www.bartonclay.com Baume & Mercier Breitling Ebel Montblanc Panerai
Philip Stein Tavannes TechnoMarine Victorinox Swiss Army
CALIFORNIA
West Hollywood
Palm Beach
Westime
Hamilton Jewelers
8569 West Sunset Blvd. West Hollywood, CA 90069 310-289-0808 www.westime.com
215 Worth Ave. Palm Beach, FL 33480 561-659-6788 www.hamiltonjewelers.com
Audemars Piguet Bell & Ross Blancpain Breitling Bulgari De Bethune Devon Franck Muller Glashutte Original H. Moser & Cie
Breguet Bulgari IWC
Harry Winston Hublot HYT Longines MB&F Omega Richard Mille TAG Heuer Urwerk Zenith
Beverly Hills
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA
Westime
Washington DC
216 Rodeo Dr. Beverly Hills, CA 90210 310-888-8880 www.westime.com Audemars Piguet Bell & Ross Blancpain Breitling Bulgari Carl F. Bucherer Chopard Christophe Claret Franck Muller Glashutte Original
Greubel Forsey Harry Winston Hautlence Hublot HYT Omega Richard Mille TAG Heuer Ulysse Nardin Zenith
Tiny Jewel Box 1147 Connecticut Ave. NW Washington, DC 20036 202-393-2747 www.tinyjewelbox.com Breitling Rolex Chopard Shinola Frederique Constant TAG Heuer Jaeger-LeCoultre
Patek Philippe Ralph Lauren Watches
Palm Beach Gardens
Hamilton Jewelers The Gardens 3101 P.G.A. Blvd, Suite N205 Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410 561-775-3600 www.hamiltonjewelers.com Breitling Bremont Cartier Chanel G-Shock Hermes
IWC Panerai Patek Philippe TAG Heuer Tudor
INDIANA Ft. Wayne
Bradley Gough Diamonds
La Jolla
Belleair Bluffs
4321 W. Jefferson Blvd. Ft. Wayne, IN 46804 260-436-9300 www.bradleygoughdiamonds.com
Westime
Harold Freeman Jewelers
Accu Swiss Maurice Lacroix Michele
1227 Prospect St. La Jolla, CA 92037 858-459-2222 www.westime.com Audemars Piguet Bell & Ross Blancpain Christophe Claret De Bethune Devon Dior Franck Muller Girard-Perregaux Giuliano Mazzuolo
FLORIDA
Oris Victorinox Swiss Army
100 Indian Rocks Rd. North Belleair Bluffs, FL 33770 727-586-2577 Glashutte Original Hermes Hublot Maitre du Temps Longines MB&F Richard Mille Ulysse Nardin Urwerk Zenith
www.haroldfreemanjewelers.com Chanel Luminox Michele
Patek Philippe Rolex
Fall 2015
73
AM
LOUISIANA
MISSOURI
Indianapolis
Baton Rouge
Kansas City
Reis-Nichols Jewelers
Lee Michaels Fine Jewelers
Tivol
3535 East 86th St. Indianapolis, IN 46240 317-255-4467 www.reisnichols.com
7560 Corporate Blvd. Baton Rouge, LA 70809 225-926-4644 www.lmfj.com
Audemars Piguet Cartier IWC Jaeger-LeCoultre Michele Officine Panerai Patek Philippe Rado Raymond Weil
Baume & Mercier Cartier David Yurman Gucci Jack Mason Michele Omega Panerai
INDIANA
(CONT)
Rolex Shinola TAG Heuer Tissot Tudor TW Steel Victorinox Swiss Army
Patek Philippe Rolex Shinola TAG Heuer Tory Burch Tudor Victorinox Swiss Army
MASSACHUSETTS
IOWA
Framingham
Gunderson’s Fine Jewelry
Barmakian Jewelers
Carl F. Bucherer Gucci Hanhart Maurice Lacroix Michele
Raymond Weil Seiko Tissot Victorinox Swiss Army
KANSAS Overland Park
496 Cochituate Rd., Route 30 Framingham, MA 01701 508-872-5454 www.barmakian.com Baume & Mercier Breitling Chopard Concord Ebel Franck Muller Hamilton Longines Michele
Mont Blanc Movado Omega Oris Pierre Kunz Rado Raymond Weil TAG Heuer Tissot
MINNESOTA
Tivol
Edina
4721 West 119 St. Overland Park, KS 66209 913-345-0200 www.tivol.com
Scheherazade Fine Jewelry
Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Cartier David Yurman Jaeger-LeCoultre Michele Niall
Country Club Plaza 220 Nichols Rd. Kansas City, MO 64112 816-531-5800 www.tivol.com Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Cartier David Yurman Jaeger-LeCoultre Michele Niall
Panerai Patek Philippe Rolex Shinola TAG Heuer Tudor
NEBRASKA Omaha
Sioux City
Lakeport Commons 4830 Sergeant Rd. Sioux City, IA 51106 712-255-7229 www.gundersons.com
74
D
Directory of American Watch Guild Authorized Retailers
N WATCH G UI ICA L ER
Panerai Patek Philippe Rolex Shinola TAG Heuer Tudor
Fall 2015
3525 West 69th St. Galleria Edina, MN 55435 952-926-2455 www.sjewelers.com Frederic Constant Hamilton
Oris Tavannes
Gunderson’s Jewelery Village Pointe 17255 Davenport St., Ste. 111 Omaha, NE 68118 402-935-6332 www.gundersons.com Carl F. Bucherer Gucci Hanhart Maurice Lacroix Michele
Raymond Weil Seiko Tissot Victorinox Swiss Army
NEW HAMPSHIRE Nashua
Barmakian Jewelers 300 Daniel Webster Highway Nashua, NH 03060 603-888-7800 www.barmakian.com Baume & Mercier Breitling Chopard Concord Ebel Franck Muller Hamilton Longines Michele
Mont Blanc Movado Omega Oris Rado Raymond Weil TAG Heuer Tissot
AM
D
N WATCH G UI ICA L ER
Directory of American Watch Guild Authorized Retailers
NEW JERSEY
NEW YORK
OHIO
Cranford
Brooklyn
Canton
Martin Jewelers
Simpson Jewelers
Gasser Fine Jewelers
12 North Ave. West Cranford, NJ 07016 908-276-6718 www.martinjewelers.com
4922 13th Ave. Brooklyn, NY 11219 718-871-0120 www.simpsonjewelers.com
205 Third St. NW Canton, OH 44702 330-452-3204 www.gasserjewelers.com
Baume & Mercier Breitling Breitling for Bentley Cellini by Rolex Ebel Michele
Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Bedat & Co. Breitling Cartier Concord Corum
Bulova Accu-Swiss Filip and Co.
Omega Rolex Cellini by Rolex Tudor Victorinox Swiss Army TAG Heuer
Dior Ebel Harry Winston IWC Michele Piaget Raymond Weil
Livingston
New Rochelle
George Press Fine Jewelers
T & R Jewelers
74 South Livingston Ave. Livingston, NJ 07039 973-992-7797 www.georgepress.com Alor Bertolucci Philip Stein
Victorinox Swiss Army
Princeton
Hamilton Jewelers 92 Nassau St. Princeton, NJ 08542 609-683-4200 www.hamiltonjewelers.com Baume & Mercier Breitling Cartier Chanel G-Shock Hamilton Jaeger-LeCoultre Michele
Panerai Patek Philippe Rolex Shinola TAG Heuer Tudor Victorinox Swiss Army
557 Main St. New Rochelle, NY 10801 914-636-7110 www.trjewelers.com Audemars Piguet Baume & Mercier Breitling Cartier Citizen Ebel Franck Muller Luminox Michael Kors
Michele Mont Blanc Movado Officine Panerai Omega Piaget Raymond Weil TAG Heuer
Rochester
Cornell’s Jewelers 3100 Monroe Ave. Rochester, NY 14618 585-264-0100 www.cornellsjewelers.com Breitling Chopard Hamilton Longines Luminox Michael Kors
Michele Oris Philip Stein Tissot Tory Burch
Gasser Signature Rolex
Cleveland
Alson Jewelers 28149 Chagrin Blvd. Cleveland, OH 44122 216-464-6767 alsonjewelers.com Baume & Mercier Cartier David Yurman Michele Raymond Weil Rolex
Shinola TAG Heuer Tudor Victorinox Swiss Army
PENNSYLVANIA Mars
Casa D’Oro Jewelers Sheraton Inn Pittsburgh North 910 Sheraton Dr.. Mars, PA 16046 724-776-2424 www.casadoro.com Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Breitling Burberry Cuervo y Sobrinos H. Moser & Cie. Louis Monet Michael Kors Michele Montblanc
Philip Stein Raymond Weil Ulysse Nardin Omega Shinola TAG Heuer Tissot U-Boat Zodiac
Fall 2015
75
AM
PENNSYLVANIA
Dallas
ARUBA
Scranton
deBoulle Diamond & Jewelry
Oranjestad
(CONT)
Boccardo Jewelers 201 Jefferson Ave. Scranton, PA 18503 570-344-9021 www.boccardojewelers.com Breitling Bulova Fortis Luminox Michele Oris Philip Stein Raymond Weil
Seiko TAG Heuer TechnoMarine Tory Burch Toy Watch Victorinox Swiss Army Zenith
SOUTH DAKOTA Sioux Falls
Gunderson’s Fine Jewelery Bridges at 57th 2109 West 57th St. Sioux Falls, SD 57108 605-338-9060 www.gundersons.com Carl F. Bucherer Gucci Hanhart Maurice Lacroix Michele
Raymond Weil Seiko Tissot Victorinox Swiss Army
6821 Preston Rd. Dallas, TX 75205 214-522-2400 www.deBoulle.com Bell & Ross Blancpain Buccellati Corum F.P. Journe Girard-Perregaux
Greubel Forsey Jaeger-LeCoultre Patek Philippe Rolex Tudor
Frisco
Alpina Bell & Ross Franck Muller Frederique Constant Glashutte Original Michael Kors Mido Luminox
Oris Perrelet Richard Mille Roger Dubuis Seven Friday Ulysse Nardin
8355 Gaylord Parkway Frisco, TX 75034 214-705-9913 www.markhamfinejewelers.com
J.E. Irausquin Blvd. #382A Oranjestad, Aruba 011-297-583-6833 www.timesquarearuba.com
Alpina Bell & Ross Breguet Breitling Bvlgari Cartier Frederique Constant Hublot
Alpina Bell & Ross Cvstos Franck Muller Frederique Constant Glashutte Graham Hamilton Michael Kors
IWC Luminox Michele Perrelet TAG Heuer Victorinox Swiss Army Zenith
Mido Mulco Oris Perrelet Rado Seven Friday Tissot TW Steel Ulysse Nardin
WASHINGTON Seattle
Amarillo
1407 Fifth Ave. Seattle, WA 98101 206-447-9488 www.turgeonraine.com
Armour Lite Michele
L.G. Smith Blvd., #15 Oranjestad, Aruba 011-297-583-6833 www.littleeuropearuba.com
Time Square
Turgeon-Raine
809 South Tyler St. Amarillo, TX 79101-2305 806-373-1067 www.duncanandboyd.com
Little Europe
Markham Fine Jewelers
TEXAS Duncan & Boyd Jewelers
D
Directory of American Watch Guild Authorized Retailers
N WATCH G UI ICA L ER
Patek Philippe
Victorinox Swiss Army
“It i is a app this
76
Fall 2015
CA
gsc-chr
Keep a watchful eye on your business... Use GoSpotCheck’s mobile app to: Collect real-time field data and images See exactly how your displays are actually merchandised Gather invaluable competitive information Make timely informed decisions Control new product or point-of-sale launches
“It is critical for watches and jewelry brands to portray the proper brand image at retail locations. GoSpotCheck is already enabling organizations in our industry to monitor field activities, know in real-time how the product appears in showcases and stay on top of competitive activities. More and more companies will soon find that this tool is not a luxury, it is a necessity.”
CARL E. ROSEN // former Chief Operating Officer, Bulova Corporation
gsc-chronos-III-FNL2.indd 1
gospotcheck.com
8/10/15 2:03 PM
watch collector PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA REF. 5153 The Calatrava Ref. 5153 was introduced in a red gold version this year. The distinctive feature of this iconic model is the officer’s style case with a hinged dust cover that opens to reveal the movement through a sapphire crystal on the caseback. This is the first red gold version of the watch, which has a stunning hand-engraved guillochÊ dial. It contains the automatic Caliber 324 S C. Patek Philippe 212-218-1240 www.patek.com
JAEGER-LECOULTRE GEOPHYSIC 1958 The Geophysic 1958 is a tribute to the International Geophysic Year 1958, during which scientists from around the world collaborated on research projects. Jaeger-LeCoultre created a watch to commemorate the occasion, and the new issue is an homage to the original. The new watch closely follows the design of its predecessor, including the long hour and minute markers, cross hairs, daggershaped hands and case shape, with its sloping bezel and straight lugs. It contains the automatic Caliber 898/1, and is water resistant to 100 meters. Jaeger-LeCoultre 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
78
Fall 2015
watch collector PIAGET ALTIPLANO GOLD The Altiplano collection from Piaget is being produced this year with an18k gold bracelet for the first time. This ultra-thin timepiece is designed for both men and women. The dial is extremely minimalist, with slim baton-style hour markers and slender hands. It contains the Piaget Caliber 534P automatic movement – hence the word “Automatic” on the dial. It has a 42-hour power reserve, and is finished in a Côtes de Genève pattern. It is available in 34 mm and 38 mm sizes. Piaget 877-8-PIAGET www.piaget.com
ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE Rolex unveiled a new movement this year, Caliber 3255, which exceeds the standard set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), establishing a new level of chronometric performance for Rolex watches. The movement, backed by 14 patents, represents improvements in precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetism and reliability. It is being used in the new Day-Date model, in platinum with an ice-blue dial color. Rolex 212-758-7700 www.rolex.com
Fall 2015
79
watch collector CHANEL J12 SKELETON OPEN-WORKED FLYING TOURBILLON This year, Chanel’s achievement in high watchmaking is the J12 Skeleton Open-Worked Flying Tourbillon, a limited edition of only 20 pieces in the world. The movement is an exceptional caliber with a diamondset tourbillon cage in the shape of a star. Like all its movements, the caliber is made exclusively for Chanel by Renaud & Papi, one of Switzerland’s most prestigious movement manufacturers. The case and bracelet are made of black ceramic. Chanel Inc. 212-688-5055 www.chanel.com
FRANCK MULLER VANGUARD GRAVITY CS The highlight of the Vanguard Gravity CS is it's elliptical shaped tourbillon cage, which is made of aluminum. It is placed inside the brand’s iconic Centrée Curvex case, designed and manufactured by Franck Muller, in titanium and 18k pink gold. There are six colorful variants for the bridge. It contains the manual-wound Caliber CS-03, with a five-day power reserve. The strap is rubber and leather. Franck Muller 212-255-8499 www.franckmuller.com
80
Fall 2015
watch collector BREGUET TRADITION AUTOMATIQUE SECONDE RETROGRADE 7097 Breguet Tradition Seconde Retrograde 7097 showcases the mechanism of the movement on top of the base plate. The new model gets its name from the retrograde seconds hand at 10 o’clock. It is inspired by the “subscription watches” made by founder Abraham-Louis Breguet, who first produced them in 1796. They were fitted with a very simple movement and sold by subscription: a down payment of a quarter of the price on order and the balance on delivery. The gold winding rotor borrows its style from the movements of the period. The offset dial is silvered gold. Breguet Swatch Group USA 866-458-7488 www.breguet.com
ROGER DUBUIS EXCALIBUR AUTOMATIC SKELETON The Excalibur Automatic Skeleton is Roger Dubuis’s first automatic skeleton watch. The watch is manufactured to the standards of the Geneva Seal, which means that all surfaces of the 167 components of the movement, Caliber RD820SQ are individually finished. The movement is equipped with a micro-rotor. The bridge is shaped in Roger Dubuis’s signature star shape. The flange is charcoal grey and the hands are pink gold, as is the 42 mm case. It is water resistant to 30 meters. Roger Dubuis 888-738-2847 www.rogerdubuis.com
Fall 2015
81
As a Service to Our Readers If you would like a catalog or the name and address of the nearest authorized dealer, please contact our advertisers. Mention that you saw them in Chronos when you call. Visit us at www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com 40 NINE UNIVERSAL WATCH CO. 5016 Schuster St. Las Vegas, NV 89118 Tel: 800-360-2586 www.teno.com BASEL FAIR BASELWORLD www.baselworld.com BELL & ROSS 605 Lincoln Road, Ste. 300 Miami Beach, FL 33139 Tel: 786-454-9730 Tel: 888-307-7887 www.bellross.com BULGARI Tel: 800-BULGARI www.Bulgari.com CITIZEN 1200 Wall Street West Lyndhurst, NJ 07071 Tel: 201-438-8150 www.citizenwatch.com DAVID OSCARSON Tel: 636-458-4345 www.davidoscarson.com DE GRISOGONO 20 East 69 St., 3 Fl. New York, NY 10065 Tel: 212-439-4220 www.degrisogono.com
82
Fall 2015
GO SPOT CHECK Tel: 844-359-2502 www.GoSpotCheck.com HERMES 55 East 59th Street New York, NY 10022 Tel: 800-441-4488 www.hermes.com HERMLE North America 340 Industial Park Drive Amherst, VA 24521 Tel: 800-642-0011 Tel: 434-946-7751 www.hermleclock.com LUMINOX LUMONDI 2301 Kerner Blvd., Ste. A San Rafael, CA 94901 Tel: 415-455-9500 www.luminox.com MONTBLANC 800-995-4810 www.montblanc.com MOVADO 650 From Road Paramus, NJ 07652 Tel: 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com SWISS INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES Tel: 877-FLY-SWISS www.swiss.com
SwissKubiK Luxury Products Intl. 20 Spyglass Point Circle Bedford, NH 03110 Tel: 347-329-2971 www.LuxuryProductsInternational.com TAVANNES P. O. Box 85 Valencia, PA 16059 Tel: 412-600-4240 www.tavanneswatches.com TUDOR WATCH U.S.A. 665 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-897-9900 www.tudorwatch.com TW STEEL USA, Inc. 101 Avenue of the Americas New York, NY 10013 Tel: 646-417-8377 www.twsteel.com WEMPE JEWELERS 700 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10019 Tel: 212-397-9000 www.wempe.com
P-38 Lightning™ Chronograph Alarm 9447: 44 mm, stainless steel brushed case, screw down crown & case back, black aluminum slide rule ring, dial ring with tachymetric scale, antireflective sapphire crystal, water resistant to 200 meters, honey tan leather strap with steel signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. A Tribute to Lockheed Martin’s legendary twin-boomed WWII Fighter Plane. The Luminox P-38 Lightning™ Series is part of the
Collection.
Available at Tourneau and Other Fine Retailers Nationwide.
Shop Online www.luminox.com facebook.com/Luminox
FOR THE CURIOUS, THE COLLECTOR AND THE CONNOISSEUR
Fall 2015 $6.95
FALL 2015 •
The BR-X1 is the perfect synthesis of Bell & Ross’s expertise in the world of aviation watches and master watchmaking: an instrument with an innovative design, produced in a limited edition of only 250 pieces. Lightweight and resistant, the Carbone Forgé ® case of the BR-X1 is protected by a high-tech ceramic bezel with a rubber strap. Ergonomic and innovative, the push buttons allow the chronograph functions to be used easily and efficiently. Sophisticated and reliable, the skeleton chronograph movement of the BR-X1 is truly exceptional and combines haute horlogerie finishes with extreme lightness. Photo: ref. BR-X1 Skeleton Chronograph - Carbone Forgé® Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 | www.bellross.com | Download the BR SCAN app to reveal exclusive content
NUMBER ONE HUNDRED FIFTEEN
BR-X1 THE HYPERSONIC CHRONOGRAPH
Tiffany Time Diving Watches Movado Commitment to the Arts
BVLGARI
Diagono Magnesium Duo