Chronos Book 114

FOR THE CURIOUS, THE COLLECTOR AND THE CONNOISSEUR

Spring 2015 $6.95

SPRING 2015 •

NUMBER ONE HUNDRED FOURTEEN

Toys and Clocks Rolex 24 @ Daytona Citizen – Focus On the Future Raymond Weil – Legacy in Design

CITIZEN

Satellite Wave-World Time GPS

The precision of a Swiss watch, neatly packaged in an airline.

In Switzerland, commitment to high quality comes standard. So it goes with us. The combination of personal service, award-winning cuisine, and fully at beds allow you to arrive relaxed. Last but not least because we arrive on time. Precisely on time. For information or reservations for nonstop ights from the USA to Switzerland, contact your travel agent or visit us on swiss.com

P-38 Lightning™ Valjoux Chronograph No. 9461: 44 mm, brushed stainless steel case, screw down crown & case back, antireflective sapphire crystal, fixed stainless steel bezel with an aluminum tachymeter top ring, water resistant to 200 meters, black leather strap with steel signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made.

A tribute to Lockheed Martin’s legendary twin-boomed WWII Fighter Plane.

The Luminox P-38 Lightning™ Series is part of the

Collection.

www.luminox.com facebook.com/Luminox

The L.U.C Collection Each part is a masterpiece The

width

of

the

blade

guaranteeing

the

suppleness of the three patented hammers in the L.U.C Chrono One is calculated to enable the chronograph hands to be swiftly and gently reset to zero. Making this vital part too thick would result in a rough jerking motion, while if it were too thin, the hands might not return at all. Like every component in the L.U.C Calibre 03.03-L, each hammer is hand-decorated and finished by the artisans at Chopard Manufacture. The L.U.C Chrono One houses a movement that is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

L.U.C CHRONO ONE

Discover the Wor ld o f C ho pa r d: New Yor k • Madison A v e nue Miami • Bal Har b o ur S ho ps Costa Mesa • Sout h C o a s t Pla z a Las Veg as • Wyn n H o t e l & R e s o r t Exp lor e the collec t io n a t us . c ho pa r d. c o m For in for ma tion call us a t 1- 800-C H OPA R D

25497 Chopard-ChronosAprilMay15_002Chrono.indd 1

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Spring 2015

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No. 114

Van Gogh at the Clark

50 Niall Timepieces American Time

Editor's Outline

8

52

News

Szanto Watches

20 Previews

54

30

The Pen is Mightier than the Sword

by Andrew Siskind

Citizen “Better Starts Now”

Page 42

58

34 Best of Basel

by Carol Besler

Toys and Clocks

by Richard and Joyce Friedland

Page 46

40 Movado TC Chronograph

64 Fashionable Works of Art

Toys and Clocks

66

42

Rolex 24 at Daytona

by Denis L. Tanney

Van Gogh at the Clark

by Andrew Siskind

Page 58

46 Raymond Weil Family Time

by Carol Besler

78 Watch Collector

24 @ DAYTONA Page 66

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CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is published bi-monthly for $30.00 per year by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the Spring 2015 issue.

Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CHRONOS at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557

EDITOR'S OUTLINE Technology has made possible many formerly unexplored means of telling time. In response, the watch brands have expanded the traditional function of the watch: telling time, with a multiplicity of functions never seen before. Thousands of timepieces were introduced at Baselworld this year.

In this issue, we are able to bring you several articles devoted to the newest achievements in horology.

Citizen’s focus on the future, and determination to improve upon the past, is reflected in its Eco-Drive Satellite Wave technologies. The story on page 30 exemplifies the expanded functions of a watch that are available today with a very comfortably wearable titanium case.

The chronograph is the most popular complication in watchmaking. The precise measurement of short intervals of time was one of the earliest inventions in the world of horology. The Movado TC Chronograph proves that bulky sports watches are a thing of the past. See the story on page 40 describing the ultra-thin case designs that make this watch as much at home in the boardroom as on the golf course.

Referencing the legacy of its founder, the Geneva- based Watch Company Raymond Weil is one of the few Swiss watch brands that remain family owned. The passions of Raymond Weil are behind the creative designs of his company. Starting on page 46 our writer, Carol Besler, explains how his passion for flying and his great interest in music have shaped the production of elegant and affordable watches.

Why have pens remained of significance and importance over the years? Some of the answers are to be found on page 54. The Pen is Mightier than the Sword illustrates a timeless interest in writing instruments.

Richard and Joyce Friedland share their enthusiasm for collecting movable antique toys that are mechanical. In this issue they explain the interesting connection between toys and clocks. On page 58 enjoy the colorful reproductions that share a common background with timepieces of today, our clocks.

The Tudor Series, the Super Bowl of sports car racing at Daytona, sponsored by Rolex provided 24 hours of excitement, challenges and rewards for all who attended this year. The Rolex 24 as it is known, gave the green flag to 52 cars. See the story on page 66 about this internationally flavored event. Drivers from many countries and in many categories of car racing vehicles, participated in this grueling 24-hour race.

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Slim d’Hermès watch in rose gold, Manufacture H1950 ultra-thin movement.

SLIM D’HERMÈS, PURITY IN MOTION.

1-800-441-4488 Hermes.com

news PATEK PHILIPPE PERFORMS AT AUCTION A Patek Philippe wristwatch once owned by rock star Eric Clapton sold for $438,602 at a Sotheby’s auction in Geneva on May 13. The watch, Ref. 5970, is a pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph, with a moon phase indicator, Breguet style hands (unique for Patek Philippe) and a pink gold bracelet. It was sold as part of the Sotheby’s auction of Important Watches held May 13 in Geneva.

The sale also included a Patek Philippe Aquanaut, a stainless steel automatic watch with date window and khaki green dial, Ref. 5167A-010, which sold for $56,716; a Patek Philippe stainless steel Nautilus automatic watch Ref. 3700/1 for $270,075; and a Patek Philippe Ref. 5970 pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph with moon phase indicator, for $438,602.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5970, once owned by Eric Clapton, sold for $438,602.

Spring 2015

No. 114

PUBLISHER & EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bertram Kalisher ASSOCIATE EDITOR Nancy K. Siskind MANAGING EDITOR Patricia Renzo ART DIRECTOR Raj Walia ONLINE EDITOR Samuel Siskind WATCH & JEWELRY EDITOR Carol Besler WRITERS Jeff Prine Carol Besler Stuart Leuthner Bertram Kalisher Marceline Kalisher PHOTOGRAPHY Keiko Makishima

ZENITH SETS SAIL Zenith Watch congratulates Spindrift White, the winning boat in the SPI Ouest France, a sailboat race near La Trinité-sur-Mer, France. The race is organized by the Société Nautique de La Trinite-sur-Mer and sponsored by the newspaper Ouest France. Zenith is the official timekeeper of the event.

AUTOMOTIVE EDITOR Denis L. Tanney PRODUCTION OFFICE Chronos 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516 Ads@ChronosWatchMagazine.com EXECUTIVE OFFICE EDITORIAL ADVERTISING 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516; Fax: (516) 374-5060 www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557. Copyright 2011 by Kalbe Associates, Inc. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in CHRONOS. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts. Subscriptions: $6.95 per copy; $30.00 per year in the United States; add $18.00 per year for foreign postage.

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SCHAUMBURG WATCH Ice Crystal

Frisco, TX p:(214)494-4241

Distributed by ATLG (401)952-4684

news CITIZEN WATCH WINS AWARD Citizen Watch has won a Gold Pencil award for its installation “LIGHT is TIME” in the Design category Experiences: Indoor Spaces at the 2015 One Show Awards. The awards are hosted by The One Club, a non-profit organization devoted to elevating creative work in the advertising industry. The installation was created by suspending 80,000 main plates – the main plate is the base upon which a watch movement is built – combined with light and sound effects. Citizen created a similar installation at its stand at the Baselworld watch fair this year.

Citizen’s installation of 80,000 main plates.

AUDEMARS PIGUET OPENS U.S. SERVICE CENTER Audemars Piguet has opened a 13,000-sq.-ft. service center in Clearwater, Florida. It will be used to service timepieces and for employee watchmaking training. The facility hosts over 50 employees, including 14 expert watchmakers. It will service all Audemars Piguet watch repairs in the Americas.

Audemar Piguet’s new service center in Clearwater, Florida.

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©2014 movado group, inc.

Movado/Imtech mgi012744 Gravity_0606849 US Page Proof 2

INTRODUCING MOVADO GRAVITY™ 42MM BLACK PVD-FINISHED STAINLESS STEEL/CARBON FIBER CASE, CARBON FIBER DIAL, BLACK RUBBER STRAP. MOVADO.COM AND SELECT RETAILERS

(10236)

news JAEGER-LECOULTRE HONORS ROBERT REDFORD Jaeger-LeCoultre sponsored the 42nd Annual Chaplin Award Gala recently at Lincoln Center. The recipient was Robert Redford, whose award was presented

by Barbara Streisand, a previous recipient of the award. The evening also included appearances by Jane Fonda, J.C. Chandor, John Turturro, Laura Poitras and Elizabeth Moss. Movie and interview clips paid tribute to the outstanding career of Robert Redford. The Film Society’s Annual Gala began in 1972, when it honored Charlie Chaplin, who returned to the U.S. from exile to accept the commendation.

Since then, the award has been renamed for Chaplin, and has honored many of the film industry’s most notable talents, including Alfred Hitchcock, Billy Wilder, Laurence Olivier, Federico Fellini, Elizabeth Taylor, Bette Davis, James Stewart, Robert Altman, Martin Scorsese, Diane Keaton, Meryl Streep, Tom Hanks, Michael Douglas, Sidney Poitier, Catherine Deneuve and Barbra Streisand.

Honoree Robert Redford arrives at the 42nd Chaplin Award Gala.

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Chronos 2015 Issue 113

Jaeger-LeCoultre sponsors the 42nd Chaplin Award Gala, which honored Robert Redford this year.

10236

(10236) Chronos 2015 Issue 113

T:10.875”

WEMPE CHRONOMETERWERKE GLASHÜTTE i/SA.

In 18k gold. Manual winding movement with stop seconds function and subsidiary second dial. 80 hours power reserve. Anti-reflective, toric-shaped sapphire crystal and screw-down sapphire case back. Chronometer officially tested to German DIN 8319 standard. From $ 6,500. Exclusively at WEMPE.

10236 chronos 113 werke_01.indd 1

4/1/15 7:19 PM

news HUBLOT OPENS BOUTIQUE IN SAN FRANCISCO Hublot called on its ambassador, golfer Justin Rose for a “putting of the ribbon” ceremony at its new boutique in San Francisco. Rose putted a ball across a green carpet rolled out at the entrance of the store, followed by a grand opening party.

The store is owned and operated by Westime, the prominent West coast jeweler with four stores in the L.A. area. “Westime is thrilled to partner with Hublot in the best cities on the West Coast, first Beverly Hills and now San Francisco,” said Greg Simonian, president of Westime. The 1,500-sq.ft. store is located at 174 Geary Street next to Bulgari in the Union Square shopping district. It is Hublot’s 12th store in the U.S. Concurrent with the boutique opening, Hublot launched its second timepiece in partnership with ambassador Kobe Bryant. The watch is called the Big Bang UNICO Chronograph Retrograde Kobe “Vino” Bryant or “The Vino” for short. Bryant named the watch to represent his growing interest in wine. Hublot’s first Kobe Bryant edition was named the King Power Kobe Bryant “Black Mamba,” a nickname Kobe earned because his game is compared to the Black Mamba snake that strikes with accuracy at maximum speed and in rapid succession. Hence the black python strap on the Black Mamba. The Vino is fitted with a burgundy python strap.

The Kobe Bryant Vino.

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Hublot boutique opening in San Francisco, with Justin Rose “putting” the ribbon.

Hublot president Ricardo Guadalupe and Kobe Bryant introduce the new Kobe watch, the Vino.

“USA MADE” SHOULD BE MORE THAN A SLOGAN.

At Niall, we take the “USA Made” badge seriously. Which is why we craft all of our components in America, and combine these with Swiss automatic movements to create luxury timepieces that are second to none. Cases, bezels, glass, dials, crowns, straps and buckles – all manufactured in the USA. It’s a pursuit that led us to pioneer the use of high-quality materials, like Corning® Gorilla Glass®, a super-glass that is 2.5x more break resistant than sapphire crystal. And it all comes together, from design and engineering to assembly and quality testing at our in-house facility in Kansas City, Missouri – at the crossroads of America.

We share not only what we do, but also how we do it because we believe transparency is key to crafting with honor. Quite frankly, we can’t imagine doing business any other way.

BECAUSE WE’RE ALL IN, AMERICA.

NIALLLUXURY.COM +1 (816) 301-7902

NOW AVAILABLE +1 (816) 531-5800

news PIAGET GOLD CUP The Piaget Gold Cup was held at the International Polo Club in Palm Beach, where Piaget debuted its new high jewelry collection, Mediterranean Garden, and displayed timepieces from its Polo FortyFive collection. Piaget CEO, Philippe Leopold-Metzger and president of Piaget North America, Larry Boland, teamed up with James R. Borynack, chairman and CEO of Wally Findlay Galleries, to host an exclusive cocktail party at the Worth Avenue gallery on the first night. Piaget North America’s polo ambassador, Jeff Hall, and his wife Michelle, were in attendance. It was Piaget’s eighth consecutive year as the presenting sponsor and official timekeeper of the Piaget Gold Cup tournament, widely regarded as one of the sport’s most prestigious competitions.

A necklace from the Mediterranean Garden collection by Piaget.

Left to right: Larry Boland, president of Piaget North America; Philippe Leopold Metzger, CEO of Piaget.

Left to right: Helga Piaget, wife of Yves Piaget; Philippe Leopold Metzger, CEO of Piaget; polo champion Jeff Hall.

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Philippe Leopold Metzger, center, with polo’s legendary Pieres brothers: Polito Pieres, Facundo Pieres, Gonzalo Pieres and Nico Pieres.

previews HERMLE REGULATOR CLOCK This Limited Edition Premium Regulator clock features a high quality 31-day, cable-driven movement, a Graham escapement, ruby pallets and a two-piece pendulum bob with temperature compensation and carbon rod. The caseback is made from Sapeli Pommele, a rare fine quality mahogany.

Hermle Clocks 800-642-0011 www.hermleclock.com

CITIZEN TI + IP The Citizen Ti + IP is a watch made of a groundbreaking proprietary material called Super Titanium, which uses a surface hardening finish called Duratect. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, dual time zone and date indicator. It is water resistant to 100 meters. The dial is blue and is covered with a sapphire crystal. The bracelet and case are both made of Super Titanium.

Citizen 201-438-8150 www.citizenwatch.com

MOVADO 1881 AUTOMATIC The Movado 1881 Automatic is a ladies’ watch with a 27 mm stainless steel case, white mother-of-pearl dial and an inner ring set with 29 round brilliant diamonds. The dial is covered by a flat, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. There is also a sapphire crystal on the caseback, exposing the automatic movement.

The flexible construction of the bracelet combines chevronstyle links of brushed stainless steel, with narrow accent links in polished steel.

Movado 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com

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120 YEAR OLD SWISS MANUFACTURING THAT GOES TO DEPTHS OTHERS DREAM OF

Tested & Proven to Dive Over 9,600 ft Deep and Keep Ticking

OCEAN EDGE 3000m/9900ft | 47mm ETA2824 | Helium Escape Valve | Anti-Reflective Sapphire Crystal Black Carbon Dial/SuperLuminova | Case/Bracelet Design with Allen Screws | Bracelet, Orange Carbon & Rubber Strap Interchangeable Tavannes waTch co (Usa) LLc | P.o. Box 85 | vaLencia, Pa 16059 | 412.600.4240 inFo@Tavannes-waTch.coM | www.Tavannes-waTch.coM

previews BULGARI ROMA Bulgari is celebrating 40 years of its Bulgari Roma timepiece, originally conceived in 1975. Among the anniversary pieces is an ultra-thin version, equipped with the hand-wound Bulgari Finissimo Caliber, with a small seconds counter. The 41 mm case is made of 18k pink gold, with a silver opaline dial. It contains Caliber BVL128, an extra flat automatic movement that is visible through a sapphire crystal on the caseback. The strap is brown alligator leather.

Bulgari 1-800-BULGARI www.bulgari.com

JUNGHANS MEISTER HANDAUFZUG For Junghans, color contrasting is important, with opposites such as warm and cool or light and dark used in the design of the new models. The Meister Handaufzug (hand-winding) has a dial with a cool, deep blue brilliance. The leather strap in a cognac color emphasizes the dial’s hue. The watch features the hand-wound Caliber J815, in a 37.7 mm stainless steel case with a height of 7.3 mm. The glass is a convex hard plexiglass. It is water resistant to 30 meters.

Junghans Watches USA 855-828-1969 www.junghanswatchesusa.net

MERKAVA M1 RECON The Merkava M1 Recon is inspired by the iconic style of military watches.

The watch has a matte black dial with silver hour markers. The strap is olive green nylon. The PVD plated stainless steel case is 42 mm in diameter. The watch is water resistant to 100 meters, and has a crystal mineral glass covering the dial. The movement is the Ronda quartz Caliber 5040.D. Merkava Industries is the first luxury Israeli watch company manufacturing high quality handmade timepieces in Switzerland.

Merkava Watches 866-963-3777 www.merkavawatches.com

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©Fritzkarl Stumpf

VIENNA SINCE 1907

previews BELL & ROSS BR 03 RAFALE The BR 03 Rafale Chronograph is a tribute to a fighter aircraft, and is designed as a cockpit clock. The case is made of matte black ceramic, and the dial is a monochromatic camouflage grey, with orange-tipped chronograph seconds and minute hands. A tachymeter scale is printed on the flange – identified in orange type. The small seconds dial at 3 o’clock features a silhouette of the aircraft. The strap is natural black rubber. It is a limited edition of 500 pieces.

Bell & Ross 888-307-7887 www.bellross.com

TUDOR NORTH FLAG The Tudor North Flag contains the brand’s new in-house movement, the COSC-certified Caliber MT5621, with a silicon balance spring and a variable inertia oscillator. It is an automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve. In addition to hour, minute and central seconds functions, it has a date window at 3 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. The 40 mm stainless-steel case is water resistant to 100 meters. The hands and numerals are treated with luminescent material.

TUDOR 212-897-9900 www.tudorwatch.com

CARL F. BUCHERER PATRAVI SCUBATEC The Patravi ScubaTec, is now available in a rose gold case, creating a bold color combination with the model’s black and blue ceramic inlays on the bezel. The helium valve, rubber strap with integrated adjustment, five-hundred-meter depth rating and chronometer approved movement (automatic Caliber 1950.1) make this a strong divers’ watch. It is applied with Super-LumiNova that glows light blue in the dark. The unique shade of blue on the ceramic bezel – the same color as the blue dial, when it glows in the dark – was developed exclusively for Carl F. Bucherer.

Carl F. Bucherer 800-395-4306 www.carl-f-bucherer.com 24

Spring 2015

previews CHOPARD L.U.C XP URUSHI AND HEDGEHOG The latest metiers piece to emerge from the Chopard workshops is the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Goat. The timepiece is a tribute to Asian culture and a celebration of the year of the Goat, as part of Chopard’s tradition of celebrating each new cycle of the Chinese calendar. It is also the latest in a series of timepieces with dials crafted using the ancestral Japanese form of lacquering known as Urushi. The varnish used in this technique is made from the sap of the Urushi tree, known as the “lacquer tree” or “Japanese varnish tree,” found in Japan and China. The technique

itself is called Maki-e, and involves sprinkling the lacquer with gold dust in order to create or accentuate a motif.

The precious dust is applied by tracing very fine lines using bamboo tubes or tiny natural bristle brushes. It is an art that requires skill and a degree of meticulous care acquired only by a handful of Urushi Masters after years of assiduous practice. It contains the Chopard automatic Caliber L.U.C 96.17-L, which can be admired through the caseback. The case is 18k white or rose gold, and the strap is alligator leather with Alsavel calfskin lining.

Chopard’s high jewelry Hedgehog watch, from the Animal World collection, is a secret-style watch.

The spherical dial cover is designed to resemble a hedgehog, set with diamonds and moonstones that are cut into delicate spikes of varying heights.

The head is fully set with diamonds and embellished with two sapphires for eyes, giving the hedgehog a radiant gaze. The snout is set with brown sapphires, and hides a well-guarded secret – touching it transforms this piece of jewelry into a watch.

Chopard USA 800-CHOPARD www.chopard.com

The L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Goat.

The Chopard Hedgehog jewelry watch.

Spring 2015

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previews EBEL WAVE LADY Ebel’s new Wave Lady reinterprets the brand’s classic wave motif, with the iconic wave bracelet. The case is made in a soft combination of stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, while the bracelet is made of stainless steel and yellow gold PVD. The dial is composed of white mother-of-pearl inserts that are intertwined with waves of gold set with diamonds totaling 0.24 ct. The waves mimic the wave-shape of the links in the bracelet. It contains the Ronda quartz Caliber 773, and it is water resistant to 50 meters.

Ebel 800-920-3153 www.ebel.com

BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS OCEAN COMMITMENT The Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback is a limited edition of 250 pieces that is dedicated to supporting ocean research. For every watch sold, Blancpain will donate 1,000 euros to support scientific expeditions. It contains the Blancpain automatic Caliber F385, a high frequency movement of 36,000 vph for optimum accuracy. It has a silicon balance spring, which is anti-magnetic. The watch is water resistant to 300 meters.

Blancpain 201-271-1400 www.blancpain.com

ZENITH EL PRIMERO SPORT The El Primero Sport contains the El Primero 400 B automatic chronograph movement, which beats at a rate of 36,000 vph. It is designed in the manner of the famous 1969 El Primero chronograph, with a 45 mm diameter and a case made of stainless steel. It is water resistant to a depth of 200 meters. The dial is topped by a domed sapphire crystal and is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap with a protective rubber lining.

Zenith 866-675-2079 www.zenith-watches.com

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previews LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR MONOGRAM SUN TOURBILLON AND TAMBOUR MONOGRAM BIJOU Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Monogram collection is a signature series that carries the iconic motifs of the Louis Vuitton brand, including the LV flower form and logo.

The Tambour Monogram Sun Tourbillon is powered by the automatic Caliber LV80, a tourbillon movement created specifically for ladies’ timepieces. The two bridges over the tourbillon carriage are composed of three petals respec-

tively, forming the LV flower when they overlap. The dial is made of guilloché mother-of-pearl, also in the shape of the LV flower. It is surrounded by 386 snow-set diamonds, and 58 blue sapphires on the bezel. The horns are set with a further 48 diamonds.

The Tambour Monogram Bijou is a classic cocktail watch with an elegant 21 mm steel case. The opaline guilloché dial features a hologram monogram

effect, an element borrowed from Louis Vuitton’s summer 2015 leather collection, designed by the firm’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière.

The strap is made of oblique Epi leather in the brand’s signature color of poppy red and electric black. The Tambour Monogram Bijou watch also comes in a Rivière version in white gold, entirely set with diamonds. The movement is quartz.

Louis Vuitton 866-884-8866 www.louisvuitton.com

Tambour Monogram Sun Tourbillon.

Tambour Monogram Bijou.

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previews GRAFF MASTERGRAFF STRUCTURAL TOURBILLON SKELETON The MasterGraff Structural Tourbillon Skeleton is powered by the Graff Caliber 6, a completely skeletonized hand-wound tourbillon movement. The 46 mm case is made of blackened titanium, with rose gold detailing and a bezel that is cut out in a diamond motif. The movement, which is the sixth proprietary caliber made by Graff, has a 60-hour power reserve.

The strap is black alligator.

Graff 212-355-9292 www.graffdiamonds.com

SEIKO ASTRON GPS SOLAR The new Astron GPS Solar was created in partnership with Giorgetto Giugiaro Design, with whom Seiko worked in the early 1980s to design its first analog quartz chronograph. The new watch incorporates the 8X Caliber, and is offered in a limited edition of 5,000 pieces. It adjusts at the touch of one button, with time zones marked on the interior dial ring. The bezel serves as a tachymeter for the instant calculation of speed. The case is titanium with a black PVD coating, and the bracelet is titanium and ceramic. It contains the Caliber 8X82.

Seiko Corp. of America 800-782-2510 www.seikousa.com

RAYMOND WEIL NABUCCO CELLO TOURBILLON The Nabucco Cello Tourbillon is a tribute to founder Raymond Weil’s lifelong love of music. The tourbillon bridges, escapement and mainspring barrel take the form of the instrument’s distinctive f-holes, while the slender hands are formed in the shape of a cello bow. The five lines of a musical stave are represented in the grooved bezel, and four tiny strings are stretched across the dial of the watch between the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions. It contains the manual-wound Caliber RW1842, with a titanium case.

Raymond Weil 212-355-3350 www.Raymond-Weil.com 28

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w w w. L e p e e U SA . c o m

w w w. K i e n i n g e r U SA . c o m

To u r b i l l o n s , R e g u l a t o r s , L o n g P o w e r R e s e r v e s . . .

North Coast Imports, Inc. The Finest Timepieces Since 1953

“BETTER STARTS NOW”

LIMITED EDITION SATELLITE WAVE F900

itizen’s new brand statement, “Better Starts Now,” reflects the simple belief that, no matter who you are or what you do, it is always possible to make something better – and now is the time to start doing it.

The philosophy is that better and now are both infinite, and that there is always a next ‘better’ and a new ‘now’ 30

Spring 2015

in which to start pursuing it.

Citizen’s focus on the future and the brand’s determination to improve upon the past is reflected in its Eco-Drive and Satellite Wave technologies. EcoDrive technology allows the company’s Eco-Drive watches to be powered by any light, artificial or natural. They never need a battery. This is good for

the planet, as it eliminates the need to send old batteries to landfill, and it is good for the watch because it will never need to be pried open and potentially damaged while replacing a battery.

Satellite Wave technology captures day, date and time signals from satellites orbiting the earth, providing ultraprecise and accurate timekeeping to

How Citizen Watch uses light and space to find a “better� way to tell time

ECO-DRIVE SATELLITE WAVE-AIR

people all over the world.

Citizen was the first watch brand to introduce Satellite Wave technology in 2011, with its Limited Edition EcoDrive Satellite Wave, the first watch to synchronize with navigation satellites that orbit the earth. These watches could intercept signals from any open space, whether in the middle of the

SATELLITE WAVE F100

ocean or the top of a mountain.

In 2013, Citizen followed up with the Eco-Drive Satellite Wave-Air, the first full-metal case satellite watch, with more advanced reception sensitivity.

The case and dial design are distinctively futuristic, with a titanium case inspired by the streamlined structures of airplane wings, representing dynamism and

SATELLITE WAVE-WORLD TIME GPS

lightness, with a three-layered dial that suggests the rotating fan blades of an aircraft engine. The dial is constructed of three transparent layers, in which the indexes, windows and hands appear to float.

Citizen took another industryleading step forward in 2014 with the Eco-Drive Satellite Wave F100. It has Spring 2015

31

SATELLITE WAVE-WORLD TIME GPS

the fastest reception speed, resulting from a combination of quicker hand movements, thanks to four individual watch-hand motors, and the radically improved antennae sensitivity. It is also lighter and thinner, measuring a mere 12.4 mm thick and made of lightweight titanium, for comfortable wear. Furthermore, it tells the time in 40 time zones. The dial design is inspired by the solar panels used to 32

Spring 2015

power orbiting satellites. The hollowed push buttons are designed to simulate the fuselage of navigational satellites, and are carved out to keep the watch slim and trim. Unique to the F100 is a light level indicator that allows the wearer to gauge the intensity of light reflecting on the dial. And finally, it is more accurate than the original edition, boasting a rate of plus or minus 15 seconds per month to plus or minus 5

seconds per month.

This year, Citizen introduces two more versions of the Satellite Wave, the Satellite Wave F900 Limited Edition, and the Satellite Wave-World Time GPS, to be launched this fall. The F900 is a multi-functional sports watch, with a 1/20th second chronograph and dual time display that shows the time in two different world time zones simultaneously. The high-speed

SATELLITE WAVE F900

twin-coil motor, newly designed for multi-functional watches, allows the hands to spin very fast both in normal and reverse rotations to quickly and smoothly correct the time between time zones. The Satellite Wave-World Time GPS can access information for 27 cities in 40 time zones, and like the F900, has a reception time as quick as three seconds. It does this with an Eco-Drive light-powered charge that

LIMITED EDITION SATELLITE WAVE F900

lasts up to two years. Other functions include perpetual calendar, daylight savings time indicator, light level power indicator and day/date function. It is water resistant to 100 meters.

The Satellite Wave GPS watches range in price from $1,150 for the newest models (Satellite Wave-World Time GPS) to $2,400 (Limited Edition F900). “The driving goal at Citizen is always to do things better and to make

technology more accessible to everyone” says Jeffrey Cohen, president of Citizen Watch Company of America. “We are very pleased that these new timepieces will bring satellite technology to a broader market of watch enthusiasts.”

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TUDOR PELAGOS

BASELWORLD ATTRACTS AFICIONADOS AND BUYERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD WHO WANT TO GET A FIRST LOOK AT THE LATEST FROM THE TOP BRANDS

F

by Carol Besler

rom everyday watches to limited-edition collectors’ pieces, the Basel fair has it all, and several trends are always visible at the show.

This year, those trends include blue dials, skeletonized or open-worked watches, interesting new materials, a new standard of elegance in dress watches and, at the high end,

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Spring 2015

some interesting complications, especially minute repeaters.

Blue is not really a common color for watches, so despite the fact that it is a trend right now, it is actually rare.

The many blue pieces at Basel stood out in the showcases, including pieces from TAG Heuer, Hermès and Tudor.

WORLD

BEST OF BASEL

Hermès Arceau in platinum

TAG Heuer Carrera Spring 2015

35

Open worked and skeletonized movements are hot, and most brands now have models that show off some of the inner workings of the movement on the dial side. Often these components are blackened for a dramatic effect. The components and bridges of the Bell & Ross BR-X1 Skeleton Chronograph Carbone ForgĂŠ, for example, are treated with black DLC. This limited edition of 250 pieces, is inspired by 21st century fighter planes whose cockpits are made of high-tech materials. The case is made of forged carbon.

Bell & Ross BR-X1 Carbone ForgĂŠ

Zenith Elite 6150

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Spring 2015

After a decade of giant super watches, timepieces are waning in size. Classic dress watches are popular and they are ultra-thin and elegantly minimalist. Chopard is becoming known for its dress watches, especially in the L.U.C collection, with in-house calibers. The new L.U.C XPS Fairmined has a case and bezel made of Fairmined gold (a certification guaranteeing the gold has been responsibly mined), with an in-house automatic, COSC-certified movement with a micro-rotor that allows for a trim 39.5 mm diameter and a thickness of just 7.13 mm. The Zenith 6150 Elite was also widely admired at Basel. It is the epitome of the minimalist dress watch, with an ultra-thin automatic movement in a slim, 10 mm thick and 42 mm wide steel case with a simple black alligator strap. The movement offers a 100-hour power reserve, which makes this a great everyday watch. It is water resistant to 30 meters.

In terms of complications, minute repeaters dominated the high end.

Louis Vuitton’s Escale Worldtime Minute repeater is a progression of the Escale Worldtime introduced last year, with hand-painted discs used to display minutes, time zones and to indicate day/night. The new minute repeater function chimes home time hours and minutes on demand, a break from the traditional minute repeater, which usually sounds local time. The handwound caliber was made by La Fabrique

Chopard L.U.C XPS Fairmined

Louis Vuitton Escale Minute Repeater Worldtime

du Temps Louis Vuitton Manufacture near Geneva. It is housed in a titanium case, considered the best sound for minute repeaters.

Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Minute Repeater with Gold Bridges

The Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tourbillon with Gold Bridges also generated a lot of buzz at the fair. It is both a nod to G-P’s history (the unique three-bridges concept was patented in 1884), and the modern reworking of the repeater function. G-P has positioned the two large gongs on the dial side, prominently at 12 o’clock.

The sapphire crystal caseback is curved to maximize the volume of the chime. In addition, the governor, the component that activates the chime, is positioned on the back of the dial plate where the sound is less likely to interfere with the minute repeater chime. The third bridge of the movement is positioned over this mechanism on the caseback.

The movement is beautifully decorated, from the shape of the hammers and beveling on the bridges to the intricate perlage finish on the mainplate.

outsized Arabic numerals, plenty of Super-LumiNova on large hands and indicators, high-tech pushers, thick case (this one nearly 11 mm) and a strap with contrasting stitching. Functions include two time zones with backwards and forwards adjustment, day/night indication and date window.

Smart watches were also a huge trend at the show; Apple isn’t the only one to launch one this year. Several brands, including Frederique Constant, Alpina, TAG Heuer, Breitling, Gucci and Bulgari all introduced smart watches this year. The Bulgari Magnesium is notable. It is a luxury automatic watch but with smart functions; it serves as an electronic passport, a banking tool and an electronic car door opener, for example. It can transfer data, activate a home alarm system and place calls from a smart phone. The dial is made of magnesium, a metallic material that sparkles. It uses an NFC (Near Field Communication) chip.

There are always collectors pieces introduced at the Basel fair and no timepieces are more collectible than those made by Rolex and Patek Philippe.

From Rolex, the talking piece this year is the Yacht-Master 40, the first model in this series with an 18k rose gold (Everose, as Rolex calls its proprietary alloy). Previously, the Yacht-Master was available only in stainless steel, with a platinum bezel. It is also the first Rolex piece with a rubber strap, called Oysterflex, a very soft, flexible rubber with an internal cushion system that makes for a comfortable fit. The rubber is fitted over steel blades, so you get the strength of steel and the comfort of rubber.

Rolex Yacht-Master 40

Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524, was the most visible introduction from that brand.

It is a Pilot’s watch like something we expect from IWC or Zenith, with the sporty codes of the aeronautical timepiece: large case, second time zone,

Patek Philippe 5524 Pilot’s Watch

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Bulgari Magnesium

Graff Disco Butterfly

Finally, ladies’ timepieces are a major segment now, with most containing automatic movements, particularly in the everyday category. The Ladies’ timepieces that made the biggest impression at this year’s fair, however, were the “moving” jewelry watches.

The Lady Compliquée Peacock, made

by Fabergé, for instance, has a jumping retrograde minute function, that uses the unfurling of the peacock’s feathers to track minutes. Hours are indicated by the peacock’s tail, which remains stationary while an engraved motherof-pearl hour ring rotates. The platinum case is set with 54 diamonds. On the dial are diamonds, Paraiba tourmalines and tsavorite garnets, in homage to the colors used in a Fabergé “Peacock” egg made circa 1908. The hand-wound Caliber 6901 was created by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht of boutique movement design firm, Agenhor.

Graff added power to flowers this year, with the Disco Butterfly collection.

The butterflies’ wings are depicted with marquise cut diamonds, sapphires, emeralds or rubies set onto disks that rotate around the dial, a function that is powered by an inner rotor. Each butterfly also rotates on its own axis with the movement of the wearer.

Also “moving” in the jewelry watch category is De Grisogono’s ruby version of the stunning Grappoli jewelry watch.

The model is dripping with briolette cut gems set so that they dangle from the case. The new piece is set with 70 briolette-cut rubies, 598 brilliant-cut rubies and 256 snow-set rubies in the dial. Even the clasp is set with 138 rubies, for a grand total of more than 15 carats.

Thousands of timepieces were introduced at the Basel fair this year, and these are only a few highlights.

See our Previews and Watch Collector sections for more introductions, in this and upcoming issues.

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Spring 2015

Fabergé Lady Compliquée Peacock

De Grisogono Grappoli Ruby

BEST OF BASEL

Contact Luxury Products International: TEL.: 347-329-2971 e: info@luxuryproductsinternational.com Facebook: Luxury Products International

www.luxuryproductsinternational.com

The Movado TC Chronograph proves that bulky sports watches are a thing of the past

The Movado TC (Thin Classic) Chronograph is an elegant, understated dress/sports watch, available in two subtle color combinations.

The chronograph functions of the TC Chronograph are activated by two lowprofile pushers on the case side. The slim case is only 9.8 mm thick.

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T

The Movado TC Chronograph in stainless steel with a black sunray dial, silver-toned hands, hour markers and signature dot at 12 o’clock.

The case and bracelet are stainless steel.

he chronograph is the most popular complication in watchmaking. Like athletes and race car drivers, watchmakers have always been obsessed with speed and performance. The precise measurement of short intervals of time was therefore one of the earliest inventions in watchmaking. It has been possible on a wristwatch since the early 1800s. While most chronographs have been characterized by their large, bulky cases, technological advances have made it possible to incorporate functionality in increasingly wearable sizes. The elegant Movado TC Chronograph is evidence of how the chronograph watch has been refined over the years with modern technology

and sleek aesthetics.

The initials TC stand for Thin Classic, a reference to the ultra-thin case design that makes the watch comfortable to wear and easy to use. The TC Chronograph, at 9.8 mm thick and 42 mm wide, is as much at home in the board room as on the golf course.

The new link bracelet, in either stainless steel or two-toned yellow gold PVD and stainless steel, adds even more elegance to this dress/sports watch. The flexible, five-row design is composed of three rows with a brushed finish and two rows that are polished. It is secured with a hidden deployant clasp.

The dial is sleek and understated, with tone-on-tone chronograph

The two-toned Movado TC Chronograph, with a silver-toned dial detailed with goldtoned markers, hands and signature dot at 12 o’clock. The case is steel with a yellow gold PVD-finished bezel, and the bracelet is steel and yellow gold PVD.

counters, a discreet date window at 4 o’clock, a 10ths-of-a-second counter at six o’clock, and of course, the signature Movado dot at 12 o’clock that has made this watch an icon of contemporary design. Skeletonized hour and minute hands, along with an ultra-thin chronograph seconds hand, improve legibility and add to the minimalist aesthetic.

The chronograph function is activated by using two low-profile pushers on the case side.

The TC chronograph contains a Swiss-made quartz chronograph movement. The watch is not only highly functional but is water-resistant to 30 meters.

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Looking out from the Clark Center Photo: Jeff Goldberg

Van Gogh

at the Clark

by Andrew Siskind

T

he Clark Art Institute’s Van Gogh and Nature exhibition, running through September 13th, is an outstanding example of how fresh a well-established artist’s work can feel when cast in a new and novel light. Assembled with works from around the globe and with assistance at home and abroad, the pieces in this collection span a handful of mediums and almost the whole range of the artist’s career, but are bound together tightly by their shared

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Vincent van Gogh (Dutch, 1853–1890), A Wheatfield, with Cypresses, 1889. Oil on canvas, The National Gallery, London, bought Courtauld Fund, 1923 Image © The National Gallery, London 2014

subject - the natural world. The forty oil paintings and ten drawings serve as a testament to Van Gogh’s lifelong fascination with the world around him.

Many people know Vincent Van Gogh as one of the great masters, whose impressionistic renderings of sunflowers and the night sky awakened the world to the subjectivity and capriciousness of our human senses. These beautiful paintings seem to belie a lifetime spent in the careful and engaged study of the natural world. The world around him was a subject that fascinated Van Gogh and held his interest throughout his entire life. Often the purpose of a great exhibition, especially one focused on such a well-known artist, is less to provide a survey or introduction to their work, and more to offer the museum goer a new lens through which to focus their attention and critical eye. The great curatorial skill is to see a thread running through the larger field and weave together an exhibition that can unify disparate works into a cohesive whole statement about an artist’s work.

There is a beautiful narrative line that can be traced from Van Gogh’s early, biblically inspired landscape renderings forward through time as he began to understand and accept the major advances made in the natural sciences during his lifetime. In his native Netherlands he created many beautiful, elegant sketches of the natural world accompanied by his personal observations of the changing seasons around him. As he traveled south into France, his ambition to do justice to the world he saw led him to paint many striking 44

Spring 2015

Vincent van Gogh (Dutch, 1853–1890), Imperial Crown Fritillaries in a Copper Vase, 1887. Oil on canvas, Musée d’Orsay, Paris, bequest of comte Isaac de Camondo, 1911 Photo: Erich Lessing / Art Resource, NY

Vincent van Gogh (Dutch, 1853–1890), Houses at Auvers, 1890. Oil on canvas, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, bequest of John T. Spaulding Photograph © 2015 Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Van Gogh

at the Clark

Vincent van Gogh (Dutch, 1853–1890), Rain–Auvers, 1890. Oil on canvas, Amgueddfa Cymru—National Museum of Wales, Cardiff, Gwendoline Davies Bequest, 1952 © National Museum of Wales

landscapes, especially in Arles and Saint-Rémy. He captured the unique character of these towns and the countryside in every season, creating a complete picture of this region as seen through his eyes.

The Clark Art Institute, nestled cozily in the foothills of the Berkshires, offers a particularly apt setting for this collection, especially in the summer and early fall. The deep, vivid greens and blues that surround the museum echo the intense colors of Van Gogh’s works. His talent at capturing the constant motion of light in the atmosphere and the subtle pulsing shifts in the colors of the natural world, surely encourages the viewer’s awareness of the movement and life surrounding them on the museums bucolic grounds. We rate this exhibit as one of the season’s must-see activities, and encourage you to make the trip. Van Gogh and Nature runs from June 14, 2015 through September 13, 2015.

Vincent van Gogh (Dutch, 1853–1890), The Olive Trees, Saint-Rémy, June–July 1889. Oil on canvas, The Museum of Modern Art, New York, Mrs. John Hay Whitney Bequest, 1998 Image © The Museum of Modern Art/Licensed by SCALA / Art Resource, NY Spring 2015

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Family Time is a third-generation family watch business that counts music and aviation among its passions

by Carol Besler

The Raymond Weil Freelancer Piper is a tribute to the Piper aircraft.

G

eneva-based watch company Raymond Weil is one of the few Swiss watch brands that remains family owned. Founded in 1976 by Raymond Weil, it was managed for 18 years by his son-in-law, Olivier Bernheim, and is now under the leadership of Weil’s grandson, Elie Bernheim. The brand is known for its accessible, high-quality Swiss-made watches and creative designs.

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Spring 2015

“I have been immersed in the Raymond Weil universe as far back as I can remember,” says Elie Bernheim. “I grew up in the industry and watched both my grandfather and my father build the company. Watchmaking is in my blood, and it was an obvious choice for me to join the business in 2006. I started in the marketing department, with the task of the rebranding of our corporate identity. Then I started designing collections, including the Nabucco and

The Raymond Weil Freelancer Piper, with titanium and stainless steel case and an automatic chronograph movement.

Freelancer collections.”

One of the most popular recent introductions is a pilot’s watch, the Freelancer Piper, which is special because it references the legacy of the founder.

Raymond Weil was a passionate pilot and the proud owner of a Piper plane.

“I was not even eight years old when I first flew with him, and he passed on his enthusiasm for flying to the next generation,” says Bernheim. The Piper is an automatic chronograph with a date window, a GMT function and a tachymeter ring, a useful function for pilots. The case is made of titanium and steel and it is water resistant to 100 meters. “The Piper is a fitting homage to my grandfather and the invaluable heritage he left us,” says Bernheim. “I am sure he would be immensely proud of it.”

Music was another of Mr. Weil’s passions, and the brand’s collections are peppered with the names of operas and musical terms. “My late grandfather was a big fan of opera, and so is my father,” says Bernheim, who adds, “my mother is a professional pianist, and I play both the cello and piano. Timekeeping and

music share common values: precision, performance and emotion. We like to say we compose our timepieces the way musicians compose their chef d’oeuvres.”

The company has long supported and nurtured musical talent, including artists Nicola Benedetti, Labrinth, 2Cellos, Milos Karadaglic and the late Frank Sinatra. In fact, the most recent piece in the Maestro collection is the Frank Sinatra Limited Edition. The watch commemorates the 100-year anniversary of the birth of Frank Sinatra.

Reminiscent of the nickname “Ol’ Blue Eyes,” the hands, index markers, and contour of the date window are a bright blue hue. A special Sinatra Centennial insignia is visible through the caseback.

Another recent musical creation is the Nabucco Cello Tourbillon, the company’s first tourbillon. The bridges, escapement and mainspring barrel take the form of the instrument’s distinctive f-holes, while the slender hands are formed in the shape of a cello bow. The five lines of a musical stave are represented in the grooved bezel, and four tiny strings are stretched across the dial between the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock

The caseback of the Raymond Weil Maestro Frank Sinatra. positions. The movement, Caliber RW1842, was designed in collaboration with Tec Ebauches, a movement specialist located in Switzerland’s famous Vallée de Joux watchmaking district. The partnership represents Raymond Weil’s ongoing strategy to work with the best suppliers in the world of watchmaking.

Creating a proprietary base caliber “isn’t

The Raymond Weil Maestro Frank Sinatra’s blue highlights represent a tribute to “Ol’ Blue Eyes.”

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The Raymond Weil Nabucco Inspired by Gibson features a dial encircled by six grooves symbolizing the strings of the Gibson SG Standard guitar.

part of our plan,” says Bernheim. “Our strength is that we are a recognized name worldwide with clearly defined positioning and elegant, affordable watches. We have been working with the best suppliers for decades, and this allows us to focus our efforts on the areas 48

Spring 2015

where we are strong and further develop our creativity. We do not pretend to be something that we are not, and this humble approach is our biggest asset.

For the Cello Tourbillon, we partnered with a renowned movement provider to create a state-of-the-art timepiece that

takes its design cues directly from the cello. The remarkable musical elements of the mechanism were conceived entirely by the Raymond Weil in-house research and development department.”

The strength of these partnerships is part of the company’s success strategy.

Raymond Weil Nabucco Tourbillon, with bridges, escapement and mainspring barrel that take the form of the cello's distinctive f-holes.

“We can count on our reliable partners, with whom we have built long-term relationships,” says Bernheim, who adds that being a family-owned and operated company allows them to react more quickly to pressures and changes in the market. “It allows us to be more nimble

than our competitors,” says Bernheim.

“The current economic situation worldwide is a challenge, and predicting can be very hazardous, but I am convinced that if a watch brand remains faithful to its values and provides clients with an authentic, honest and reasonably-

priced collection, it will be successful.

Clients are looking to invest wisely, and so simple and elegant timepieces will always find the right audience.”

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TIMEPIECES

AMERICAN TIME How an entrepreneurial watch lover brought timepiece manufacturing to America

Niall One.3 in stainless steel

T

he swiss-made cachet has long been an absolute in luxury watchmaking. It is as proverbial as italian-made when it comes to describing exotic sports cars.

Sometimes it takes an outsider to challenge the conventions. That’s what happened in 2012 when American watch lover, techie and entrepreneur Mike Wilson set out to create an Americanmade watch company. His premise was that everything – cases, buckles, straps and dials would be made on American soil. Only the movements, which are Swiss, come from elsewhere… for the time being.

Niall Timepieces is based in Kansas City, and launched its first model in 2014. The collection consists of men’s mechanical watches (ladies’ coming soon) with sporty cases, some with DLC coating, a minimalist dial and a respectable movement from the Swiss company Eterna, including a modified

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version of the Eterna automatic Caliber 3903A with a date. The watches are priced in the $4,000 range.

For Wilson, it all began with a TAG Heuer watch and a pair of Allen Edmond shoes, given to him by his father for graduation. “Ever since then, I’ve had a taste for fine watches and wellcrafted shoes,” he says. Over the next decade, he also developed a passion for complex manufacturing, working first at his father’s industrial microwave manufacturing company, and then later in marketing for other manufacturing companies in Kansas City. “Having been exposed to the manufacturing world, the concept and process of how to take an idea, engineer it, prototype it and craft it out of a block of metal was demystified to me,” says Wilson. “It helped me build a foundation for Niall.

He began by exploring contacts in China – “as 90% of non-European brands do these days,” he says. Ulti-

mately, he decided against that course.

“I wanted to be a brand that could take pride in the stewardship of its manufacturing process. I watched my father build a company against great odds because he was resilient and passionate enough to understand every aspect of his business, from the mundane details to the technically complex. His motto was: ‘He conquers, who conquers himself ’ and this is inscribed onto the rotors of our timepieces.” Wilson explains that the motto is about constant improvement. If people take the time to make themselves better – to conquer their own faults and shortcomings, then they can conquer anything.

Wilson spent the next two years obsessing over design, reading horological books, working with engineers, meeting with watchmakers, talking with movement companies and meeting with American manufacturers. He proceeded to build a watch company with

Niall One.3 in stainless steel

products that are not just assembled in America, but manufactured in America, including cases, bezels, dials, crowns, crown tubes, movement holders, leather packaging, screws and gaskets. Niall also does its own polishing, laser etching, assembly, regulation, servicing and quality control, all at its Kansas City headquarters in a refurbished centuryold spring works factory. Instead of using sapphire crystals, a convention in the industry, Wilson partnered with Corning to use Gorilla Glass, a chemically engineered super-glass that Wilson says scientists claim has 2.5 times the break resistance of sapphire.

“Eterna has developed an entirely new way to customize movements, building on newly engineered designs and focusing on product modularity.

The result is a suite of movements, with over 88 possible combinations,” says Wilson. “Effectively, Eterna has produced, in our eyes, a superior move-

Niall One.3 in PVD coated steel with brown strap

ment to anything you will find at any independent brand. We are humbled and thankfully announce that we are Eterna’s first U.S. customer.”

He adds: “We are working with Eterna to collaboratively develop a roadmap for what movement components we can ultimately manufacture in America,” says Wilson. Eterna is supportive of this strategy to bring more American-made content into a mechanical movement. “Eterna has been producing clock movements since the 1800s,” he says proudly. Wilson has plans to develop an American-based movement in the very near future.

The name Niall was chosen for its symbolic meaning and family connection. “I took a DNA test about two years ago and discovered that I am a direct descendent of King Niall Noígíallach, a 5th century King of Ireland and the patriarch of the O’Neil royal dynasty in Ireland. I dug into his story,

Niall One.3 in stealth black

history, legends and lore, and the more I learned, the more I believed that the name Niall was the perfect representation of our passion to craft with honor, to be all-inclusive and conquer for good,” says Wilson.

Egg shaped figures predominate in the design of Niall watches, including the shape of the bezels and crowns. The truncated circle shape is inspired by the landscape near the Hill of Tara, where Irish Kings were crowned. The rotor is inscribed with a motif representing the rolling hills of Ireland. “ It is also inspired by the rolling hills of Kansas, where I live,” says Wilson.

Niall watches are distributed through retail jewelers in the U.S., including Tivol Jewelers in Kansas City.

For more information, visit www. http://niallluxury.com.

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Szanto 4200 Dress Style

Szanto 5100 Deep Dive Series

Old Timers Szanto is a modern brand that celebrates the past

O

ne of the strongest trends in timepieces for the past two years and still going strong, is a vintage look that recalls the aesthetic of a simpler era.

Minimalist dials, earth tones, canvas or distressed stitched leather straps and plenty of luminescence were the hallmarks of early sports watches, particularly aviators’ watches. Many brands are adopting this look, some of them

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Spring 2015

referring directly to their archives for inspiration. Szanto is a new brand however, that not only adopts the look in an original way, but in an affordable way.

“The vintage trend seems to be appearing in a multitude of product categories. In cars, for example, we see the revival of the Camaro and Challenger, but in the watch segment, I noticed that for some reason, this trend was only available in the high end,” says

Szanto founder Barry Cohen. “A friend mentioned this to me and when I took a look, I saw that vintage watches were prevalent in the luxury sector, starting at about $3,000 and up, but there was no one making price accessible, vintagestyle watches.”

Cohen, with over 30 years as a watch industry executive, and founder of the popular sports brand Luminox, decided to fill the void. The result is

Szanto 2400 Series Officers' Chrono

Szanto 2600 Aviation Style

Szanto 1100 Rugged Military Style

Szanto, which is priced at $195-$350, with some automatic mechanical versions launching this summer at $425.

Cohen’s experience and knowledge of watch manufacturing ensures that the watches deliver quality along with a good price. The movements are made

by Miyota, a well-regarded company owned by Citizen that makes robust movements.

Deciding on a name for the collection was a process. “I had 50 names as possibilities, and I wrote each one on a

sticky note, leaving it up on my computer screen for a day or two,” he says.

“I wanted to make sure I was comfortable with it.” In the end, he decided on a family name on his mother’s side, Szanto. “I asked quite a few people how it sounded to them, and it tested well,” he says.

The collection is comprised of 12 vintage-inspired series, with case shapes ranging from rectangular to round and tonneau. All are constructed from 316L stainless steel and some are ion plated

in black, gun metal or titanium. Others are given an antique gold or bronze finish, giving them a vintage patina.

Many of them are military or aviation inspired, but there is also a selection of classic dress watches, chronographs and some tough divers’ watches with up to 500 meters of water resistance. Each is packaged in a presentation box inspired by old-world steamer trunks. The collection has been a great success.

WWW.SZANTOTIME.COM

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Pen Mightier The

is

than the Sword.

by Andrew Siskind

I

n 1839 Edwin Bulwer-Lytton wrote, “Beneath the rule of men entirely great / the pen is mightier than the sword.” He was giving a timeless coat to the age old idea that disputes of every kind could be resolved using words and communication, rather than force and domination. The pen is a symbol of rationality, consideration, compassion, and cooperation. Bulwer-Lytton calls the pen the “arch-enchanter’s wand,” capable of almost anything in the hands of the right person.

With a pen many things can be accomplished, limited only by the imagination and will of the holder: treaties can be signed, contracts drawn up, donations made, poems written, buildings designed. Timeless words can be etched in the frontispiece of books given to graduating children, love letters written out in open hand to be sent across the country, or the final check paying off the mortgage in full, can be signed by a homeowner. The pen

William Shakespeare 54

Spring 2015

Limited Edition Pen from Montegrappa

The Alexander Fleming Limited Edition Collection Pen Translucent Blue and White Hard Enamel from David Oscarsen

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Bugatti Pur Sang Duotone from Montegrappa

is a symbolic image for language, but it goes beyond language. Symphonic scores are inked between the lines of the staff, careful maps of new routes to old cities can be added to creased and wellworn maps, a landscape can be recorded forever on the broad white page of an artist’s pad.

Edwin Bulwer-Lyon had high hopes for the pen, and so do we.

Whichever writing instrument you use for the purpose, the pen is an extension of your hand, a multi-tool perfectly suited for almost any job. Take time to appreciate the pens in your life - we all have a favorite. Imagine everything you can accomplish with one in your hand.

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Spring 2015

Form follows Function Tec Flex Stainless steel Wave with 14K Gold PVC.

By Mr. Ferdinand Porsche

chrono

To dive for

Designed in America New for men & women in 3 sizes $49 for more information, visit 40Nine.com,

40NINE.COM

chronos_spring_summer15_40nine.indd 1

e-mail Sherri@40Nine.com, or call 800-360-2586

3/31/15 8:41 AM

Toys and Clocks – the same or different

by Richard and Joyce Friedland

T

he Mad Hatter in Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland presents Alice with the riddle, “Why is a raven like a writing desk?” And you might ask, “How is an antique tin wind-up toy like a clock?”

Although the Mad Hatter’s riddle has no answer, our question does.

The popularity of automated toys grew out of advances in clock making in the 1600’s. In fact, the word “clockwork” is often used to describe mechanical and wind-up toys. These very early mechanical toys were usually made for adult European aristocrats. A child-friendly mechanical toy duck wasn’t available until 1738 when it was publicly exhibited in Paris. More affordable mechanical toys did not appear until the beginning of the nineteenth century.

To understand how the mechanism of toys and clocks are related, it is necessary to examine how clocks were powered before the age of electricity. Then, clocks were wound with keys to add energy. A spiral spring stored the energy added with the key.

The spring’s energy was released through a set of gears, which regulated how quickly or slowly the hands of the clock moved.

The springs used in making clocks were usually thick twists of steel while those used in mechanical toys were flimsy. A clock’s energy might have lasted for twenty-four hours, while a toy’s energy might have only lasted for a minute. But the basic structure was the same. Clockwork toy cars often used gears to make themselves race along rapidly.

As the mainspring uncoiled, it turned a wheel around, and then gears increased the speed, making the car go even faster.

Richard Friedland standing before one part of his antique tin wind-up toy collection.

Photographs by Russ

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Spring 2015

Q

Richard, when did you become interested in antiques?

The inspiration for my antique collecting was my mother, Anna Friedland. She loved beautiful old things, particularly silver and china. Each year she would travel to Toronto, ostensibly to visit relatives, but really to go antiquing. Sometimes I would trail along. Being very mechanical from an early age, I was most interested in the clocks and barometers that I saw.

As an adult I was the trailing spouse when my wife Joyce attended educational conferences all over the country. As she was busy working and showing her published products in the exhibit hall, I would search the surrounding areas for antique shops. Although I started collecting a broad range of items, I began to fall in love with toys.

Amos ‘n’ Andy/ Fresh Air Taxi. 1930s. Made by Marx.

Superman. 1940s. Made by Marx.

Charlie McCarthy/ Benzine Buggy. 1938. Made by Marx.

Motorcycle with Dual Riders and sidecar with Passenger. 1930s.

Made by Distler (Germany).

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Q

What did you collect?

I started off collecting many different kinds of items – whatever I came upon that appealed to me aesthetically and was in my price range. I collected clocks and old radios, always preferring things that moved. I was rarely deterred by items that were damaged, as fixing them was part of the fun.

Arnold Mac 700 Wind-up Motorcycle. 1950s. Made by Arnold Company (U.S. Zone Germany).

L’il Abner and his Dogpatch Band. 1940s. Made by Unique Arts Manufacturing Co.

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Q

Why did you begin to collect antique tin wind-up toys?

Tin wind-up toys became the focus of my collecting because they make me and the people who see them feel good. Some of my toys provide me with happy memories of my childhood. And now, whenever I have a bad day, I just look at the toys, wind them up, and the world is a happy place again.

Toys and Clocks

Charlie Chaplin. 1915. Made by B&R.

Minnie Mouse Knitting in Rocking Chair. 1950s. Made by Line Mar (Japanese Marx subsidiary).

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Q

Why have these toys lasted so long?

These delicate toys may have been stored in a box only to be brought out after Sunday dinner, played with for a while, and then returned in their boxes to safe quarters.

Smokey Joe Fireman Climbing Ladder. 1930s.

Made by Marx.

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Toonerville Trolley. 1922. Made by Nifty (Germany).

Toys and Clocks

– the same or different

Q

What is it like to live with your toy collection?

Q

What would you advise anyone who is interested in starting a toy collection?

It’s wonderful to have a collection that you can display and look at every day. It is great to be able to “play” with the toys and share them with others. It is a problem, however, when the grandchildren want to play with them.

Since the toys have a finite number of winds, and we really don’t know how many they are, I ask them to pick out three toys to wind up at each visit.

Whether you are starting a toy collection as an investment or as a pleasurable hobby, it is important to do as much research as you can – online or in books – before making your purchases. It is always better to buy first quality items that are in mint condition, particularly if they come with the original box. These toys will last and retain their value. Tin wind-up toys are hard to find in shops, but they can be found online, at auction, or at shows.

Felix the Cat Scooter Wind-up Toy. 1922. Made by Gunthermann (Germany).

Lone Ranger. 1938. Made by Marx.

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Fashionable works of art Universal watch makes uniquely designed fashion watches

The SB Select Cyber Time

R

aphael Cohen, president of Universal Watch Co, and Fredi Brodmann, a New York City based industrial designer, have teamed up to create a new watch collection, SB Select (SB stands for Steel Blaze), that is highly creative yet elegantly streamlined.

“With Raphael’s guidance, we have

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The SB Select Sharp

created several new and exciting watch collections together,” says Brodmann.

“We are taking the fashion watch category to a new level. We have created vibrant colored fun plastic dive watches with date, fresh crisp dive chronographs, and ‘nouveau bauhaus’ styled minimalistic stainless steel timepieces with sapphire crystal, silicone and leather straps,

The SB Select Big Time

using various movements with high end sophisticated graphic dials.”

Every SB timepiece contains a Ronda Slimtech Caliber 1062 Swiss quartz movement. The cases measure 40 mm in diameter and 6.5 mm thick and are made of nickel-free stainless steel. The watches are water resistant to 50 meters. Each design is limited

The 40Nine 01/Blue40

The 40Nine01/Grey10

All watches are distributed by Universal Watch Co.

The 40Nine01/Black50 to only 100 pieces each, which makes the designs very exclusive. They carry a two-year manufacturer’s warranty.

Fredi’s designs are way ahead of the curve and stunning at the same time,” says Cohen. “The combination of our abilities has produced a new and exciting product line.”

Universal Watch also makes the

40Nine collection, a fun, colorful watch line in three sizes that is designed to appeal to both men and women. Customers can choose from among 37 colors.

Case size options include a 41 mm, 46 mm or 50 mm. The name reflects the price – all 40Nine watches are priced at $49, with the exception of the new 40Nine chronograph watches, which

are priced at $149.

Each 40Nine watch is fitted with a Japanese Miyota Caliber 2115 quartz movement with a date feature. The crystal is made of hard mineral, the strap is silicone rubber, and the watch is waterresistant to 50 meters. The watches are covered by a two-year manufacturer’s warranty.

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A Successful 53rd Running of the

24 @ DAYTONA Article and photography by Denis L. Tanney, Automotive Editor

A

Grand Marshall Jochen Mass and Rolex CEO Stuart Wecht show off their own Daytona Chronograph watches along with the winning drivers whose watches are still in their boxes. The drivers L-R: Tony Kanaan, Kyle Larson, Scott Dixon and Jamie McMurray.

fter a rather controversial race last year, where officials tried to make the right calls and made two huge errors, this year’s race went off without a hitch. No infractions from any teams and no incidents that required any major official intervening; a good thing, for sure. The crowds were huge and the weather was as perfect as anyone could hope for in late January in Florida.

As this is the kick-off event for the Tudor Series, the Super Bowl of sports car racing in America, it was expected as always to have a large number of cars entered. The count was down a bit from the last couple of years but still,

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53 cars got the green flag this year.

Pit road was as crowded as I have ever seen it. Barely any space between the pit stalls made things very tight for photographers to shoot the pit stops.

Several teams put signs outside their tented pit compounds reading “Only Team Members Allowed,” and stationed a member of their team at their doors to enforce this rule.

Being the international flavored event the Rolex 24 has become over the years, drivers from many countries and from many types of racing were there to hopefully win and have fun in this wonderful hallowed event. Typically we see race drivers from Indy Car, Nascar,

Sports Car, Formula One and many “Gentleman” drivers (who compete as weekend warriors, but have other real full time jobs). It is a race that everyone wants to get in on. It is a fun race, a grueling 24 hour race and yet a very, very rewarding race. Of course, if you are on the podium at the end of the race it is most gratifying, especially when the CEO of Rolex, Stuart Wicht presents you with a Rolex Daytona Chronograph watch. Yet, there are many drivers who come in hopes of just finishing this long race. Most teams had four drivers, a few had five drivers and a few had only three drivers per car. This made stint changes, rest and sleep a bit more hectic for the

The overall winning team along with its principal owner, Chip Ganassi gets a ride into Victory Circle to begin their celebration and enjoy the fruits of their win, each receiving a Rolex Daytona Chronograph watch.

Team Ganassi, Car #02, the DP Riley chassis, with Ford EcoBoost power plant at night on the high banking of the tunnel turn, turn #4.

three man teams.

The race began at 2:10pm on Saturday, January 24th. The fans seemed very ready for the start this year. The stands had a large number of spectators and despite all the construction going on at the Speedway [International Speedway Corp is spending $400 + million to add new seating and modernize the existing structures] the main grandstand along the front straight was well populated. As ever, the infield filled portion of the oval was packed to capacity. Campfires were constantly burning, beginning a few days before

the race and continuing until well after the race concluded. There is nothing so delightful to one’s olfactory senses than being able to breathe in a wide variety of charcoal cooked meats, fish and vegies as you walk around this huge complex going from one location to the next. Too bad we couldn’t stop at each one to sample the culinary delights.

I am happy to report that there were no incidents this year that caused large interruptions to the race, as we witnessed early on in last year’s race when the sun got in the eyes of a driver. It caused a massive crash and the

driver, Memo Gidley, spent months of recuperation in a hospital, and his team withdrew from the series altogether.

2015 proved to be yet another strong race for the Daytona Prototypes.

The ‘Power of Performance’, which is the series of measures the Tudor Series officials take to insure that all classes are equally met when racing, seemed pretty much in order. Other than the Prototype Challenge class cars, which are essentially spec racers, using the same body, same engines and same exact specs, the other three classes [Daytona Prototype, GTLeMans, and Spring 2015

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Ferrari vs Aston Martin down the front straight-away. The Scuderia Corsa 458 Italia of Andrea Bertolini stays ahead of the TRG-AMR Aston Martin V12 Vantage of Christina Nielsen.

Krohn Racing’s Alex Brundle driving the Ligier JS PS2 Judd Prototype racing the Speedsource Mazda Diesel of Tristan Nunez.

GT Daytona], there is always some grumbling about equality or advantages.

We heard virtually nothing this year, thankfully. As time has gone on and racing evolves to a scientific exactness, the sophistication of all race cars (well maybe not so much Nascar since they still use carburetors), especially sports cars and open wheel racers is such that competition has become fiercer than ever. This naturally promotes some drivers to feel that the teams with money behind them have the advantage. The idea of the Tudor Series was to make 68

Spring 2015

that a nonfactor.

Rolex, the title sponsor, spends a great deal of time and money to promote this race and to be sure it runs successfully. In the many years they have been the title sponsor, this event has never dulled anyone’s taste for racing or for the watch manufacturer, who continues to produce some of the finest watches in the world, and those lucky enough to wear them will attest to that.

This year the final 30 minutes of the race was filled with action and

some would call it drama. I call it plain excitement. It turned out to be one of the closest finishes in the race’s storied history. A mere 1.333 seconds separated first from second and gave Chip Ganassi his sixth Rolex 24 win as a team owner. His car #02, the Riley chassis and Ford EcoBoost engine car was driven home by Scott Dixon who shared the seat time with his co-drivers Tony Kanaan, Kyle Larson, and Jamie McMurray. This was the first 24 hour win for the Ford engine since its debut last year. Coming in second, right on

Three abreast: Martin Plowman in the PC Bar1 Motorsports Oreca FLN09 #61, the JDC/Miller Motorsports Oreca of Chris Miller and Marc Bessing in the GTD class Muehlner Motorsports Porsche 911 RSR.

The setting sun late Saturday hits Dorsey Schroeder right in the eyes as he works in his office; the BMW powered Riley DP entry.

the #02 coattail was the Action Express DP powered by the Corvette engine with drivers Joao Barbosa, Christian Fittipaldi and Sebastien Bourdais.

And, in third place, was the Wayne Taylor team Corvette powered DP with Jordan Taylor and Ricky Taylor(Wayne Taylor’s sons) and the old master of the team best known in racing as “Max the Axe” Angelelli. Taking the top spot in the GTLM (GT LeMans) class was the Corvette Racing Corvette C7-R of Jan Magnussen, Antonio Garcia and Ryan Brisco. In the PC (Prototype

Challenge) class we saw the Cuttwood/ Spyder Oreca FLM09 Chevrolet of PR1/Mathiasen Motorsports and Mike Gausch, Andrew Novich, Andrew Palmer and Tom Kimber-Smith take the top step of the podium. Interestingly enough, this team is one of a very few teams to have claimed class victories at Daytona, Sebring and Petit LeMans.

And, in the GTD class (GT Daytona), the Dodge Viper SRT of Ben Keating, Dominik Farnbacher, Al Carter, Kuno Wittmer and Cameron Lawrence took the top honors.

No one can say this racing wasn’t exciting. From mid- afternoon to twice around the clock during the 24 hours, the action never stopped. The cars sped away from the start and began their long, long trek around the 3.56 mile road circuit at Daytona International Speedway at full throttle the entire 24 hour period. The race itself is grueling for driver, crew and media. The only ones that get to play and relax are the fans. This is a race that always sees high attrition in the field. And, this year was no different than years past. As an Spring 2015

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24 @ DAYTONA

The GTLM winning Corvette C7-R with Ryan Briscoe driving.

dd 2

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Chron

The glow of red hot brake rotors on the Spirit of Daytona Corvette DP with Mike Rockenfeller driving and the colorful ferris wheel in the background.

example, less than half of the original sixteen starters in the Daytona Prototype class finished the race. And, only three of the original eight starters from the PC class saw the checkered flag. We all hear of unfortunate incidents at many races; it has been a while since we had a critter killed during this event, but this year the honors went to the No.44 70

Spring 2015

Magnus Racing Porsche 911GTD car as it hit an opossum right after losing its 6th gear, but the car recovered to finish 11th for the race. No other incidents were noteworthy.

The Rolex 24 has come a long way and the fan base has increased dramatically over the years. Is it the cars, the drivers or the technology? Whatever the

case, this has evolved into a great event to look forward to. Congratulations to Rolex and all the teams and IMSA (International Motorsports Association, the sanctioning body) who once again showed us how a 24 hour race can be exciting, challenging and rewarding for all.

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A Plus for Our Chronos Readers If you are a collector, a connoisseur, or just curious, a subscription to CHRONOS brings you the latest in watch technology and design with an in-depth analysis of individual watches. Each issue includes Watch Collector, a showcase of the latest unique and limited edition watch masterpieces. As a bonus for our CHRONOS readers we are including a subscription to ÉCLAT INTERNATIONAL, A Lifestyle Magazine featuring artistic achievement and design, past and present in the world of jewelry, art, design, travel, gardens and beauty wherever it is found.

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Museum Watch

At the Getty Center: Degas, Russian Dancers, 1899, Edgar Degas, pastel and brush on tracing paper. Courtesy of a private collection.

DEGAS: RUSSIAN DANCERS AND THE ART OF PASTEL

J. Paul Getty Center, Los Angeles through October 11 Contrasting with the ballerina paintings that made him famous, the pastels featured in this exhibition use bright colors and depict the elaborate folk costumes of Ukrainian peasant dancers in scenes that radiate exuberance.

ALEX KATZ: THIS IS NOW

High Museum of Art, Atlanta through September 6 This survey of Katz work traces his development, from early work in emotionally cool, figurative portraits to his abundant variations on landscapes later in his career.

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J.M.W. TUNER: PAINTING SET FREE de Young Museum, San Francisco through September 20

In the last fifteen years of his life, Turner produced his most inventive work. Sixty key oil painting and watercolors, demonstrating his inspired creativity and radicalism of technique, are presented in this major exhibition.

THE MEMORY OF TIME

National Gallery of Art, Washington D.C. through September 13 This collection of contemporary artists who investigate the complexity of photography's relationship to time, memory, and history, also shows how the technological revolution of the digital age has changed the nature of the medium.

Andy Warhol, Campbell’s Soup Cans (detail). 1962, Synthetic polymer paint on thirty-two canvases, each canvas: 20 x 16". The Museum of Modern Art. Partial gift of Irving Blum. Additional funding provided by Nelson A. Rockefeller Bequest, gift of Mr. and Mrs. William A. M. Burden, Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Fund, gift of Nina and Gordon Bunshaft in honor of Henry Moore, Lillie P. Bliss Bequest, Philip Johnson Fund, Frances R. Keech Bequest, gift of Mrs. Bliss Parkinson, and Florence B. Wesley Bequest (all by exchange), 1996. ©2015 Andy Warhol Foundation / ARS, NY / TM Licensed by Campbell’s Soup Co. All rights reserved.

ANDY WARHOL: CAMPBELL'S SOUP CANS AND OTHER WORKS 1953-1967 Museum of Modern Art, New York through October 18

For the first time at MoMA, Warhol's 32 Soup Cans are show in a line, as they were when first exhibited in 1962. They are accompanied by other paintings and prints from this early era of his career.

SARGENT: PORTRAITS OF ARTISTS AND FRIENDS

Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York through October 4 The 90 portraits collected for this show reflect a more informal and experimental approach then Sargent's commissioned work and also demonstrate the significance of relationships to his life and art.

LACMA: Robert Rauschenberg, Monday Duck (Urban Bourbon), 1995, acrylic on mirrored and bonded aluminum, 105 x 49". Promised gift of Suzanne Kayne for the 50th anniversary © Robert Rauschenberg / Licensed by VAGA, New York, NY. Photo by Larry Massing

50 FOR 50

Los Angeles County Museum of Art through September 13 Subtitled, "Gifts on the Occasion of LACMA's Anniversary," this exhibition celebrates the museum's 50th with premiere works from Degas, Toulouse-Lautrec, Rauschenberg, Monet, Roy Lichtenstein, and Warhol, along with art from Africa and decorative arts.

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AM

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N WATCH G UI ICA L ER

Directory of American Watch Guild Authorized Retailers

ALABAMA Mountain Brook

Barton-Clay Fine Jewelers 2701 Cahaba Road Mountain Brook, AL 35223 205-871-7060 www.bartonclay.com Baume & Mercier Breitling Ebel Montblanc Panerai

Philip Stein Tavannes TechnoMarine Victorinox Swiss Army

CALIFORNIA

Palm Beach

Westime

Hamilton Jewelers

8569 West Sunset Blvd.

West Hollywood, CA 90069 310-289-0808 www.westime.com

215 Worth Ave. Palm Beach, FL 33480 561-659-6788 www.hamiltonjewelers.com

Audemars Piguet Bell & Ross Blancpain Breitling Bulgari De Bethune Devon Franck Muller Glashutte Original H. Moser & Cie

Breguet Bulgari IWC

Harry Winston Hublot HYT Longines MB&F Omega Richard Mille TAG Heuer Urwerk Zenith

Beverly Hills

DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA

Westime

Washington DC

216 Rodeo Dr. Beverly Hills, CA 90210 310-888-8880 www.westime.com Audemars Piguet Bell & Ross Blancpain Breitling Bulgari Carl F. Bucherer Chopard Christophe Claret Franck Muller Glashutte Original

Greubel Forsey Harry Winston Hautlence Hublot HYT Omega Richard Mille TAG Heuer Ulysse Nardin Zenith

Tiny Jewel Box 1147 Connecticut Ave. NW Washington, DC 20036 202-393-2747 www.tinyjewelbox.com Breitling Rolex Chopard Shinola Frederique Constant TAG Heuer Jaeger-LeCoultre

Patek Philippe Ralph Lauren Watches

Palm Beach Gardens

Hamilton Jewelers The Gardens 3101 P.G.A. Blvd, Suite N205 Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410 561-775-3600 www.hamiltonjewelers.com Breitling Bremont Cartier Chanel G-Shock Hermes

IWC Panerai Patek Philippe TAG Heuer Tudor

INDIANA Ft. Wayne

Bradley Gough Diamonds

La Jolla

Belleair Bluffs

4321 W. Jefferson Blvd.

Ft. Wayne, IN 46804 260-436-9300 www.bradleygoughdiamonds.com

Westime

Harold Freeman Jewelers

Accu Swiss Maurice Lacroix Michele

1227 Prospect St. La Jolla, CA 92037 858-459-2222 www.westime.com Audemars Piguet Bell & Ross Blancpain Christophe Claret De Bethune Devon Dior Franck Muller Girard-Perregaux Giuliano Mazzuolo

74

West Hollywood

FLORIDA

100 Indian Rocks Rd. North Belleair Bluffs, FL 33770 727-586-2577 Glashutte Original Hermes Hublot Maitre du Temps Longines MB&F Richard Mille Ulysse Nardin Urwerk Zenith

Spring 2015

www.haroldfreemanjewelers.com Chanel Luminox Michele

Patek Philippe Rolex

Oris Victorinox Swiss Army

AM

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LOUISIANA

MISSOURI

Indianapolis

Baton Rouge

Kansas City

Reis-Nichols Jewelers

Lee Michaels Fine Jewelers

Tivol

3535 East 86th St. Indianapolis, IN 46240 317-255-4467 www.reisnichols.com

7560 Corporate Blvd.

Baton Rouge, LA 70809 225-926-4644 www.lmfj.com

Audemars Piguet Cartier IWC Jaeger-LeCoultre Michele Officine Panerai Patek Philippe Rado Raymond Weil

Baume & Mercier Cartier David Yurman Gucci Jack Mason Michele Omega Panerai

INDIANA

(CONT)

Rolex Shinola TAG Heuer Tissot Tudor TW Steel Victorinox Swiss Army

Patek Philippe Rolex Shinola TAG Heuer Tory Burch Tudor Victorinox Swiss Army

MASSACHUSETTS

IOWA

Framingham

Gunderson’s Fine Jewelry

Barmakian Jewelers

Lakeport Commons 4830 Sergeant Rd. Sioux City, IA 51106 712-255-7229 www.gundersons.com Raymond Weil Seiko Tissot Victorinox Swiss Army

KANSAS Overland Park

496 Cochituate Rd., Route 30 Framingham, MA 01701 508-872-5454 www.barmakian.com Baume & Mercier Breitling Chopard Concord Ebel Franck Muller Hamilton Longines Michele

Mont Blanc Movado Omega Oris Pierre Kunz Rado Raymond Weil TAG Heuer Tissot

MINNESOTA

Tivol

Edina

4721 West 119 St. Overland Park, KS 66209 913-345-0200 www.tivol.com

Scheherazade Fine Jewelry

Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Cartier David Yurman Jaeger-LeCoultre Michele Niall

Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Cartier David Yurman Jaeger-LeCoultre Michele Niall

Panerai Patek Philippe Rolex Shinola TAG Heuer Tudor

NEBRASKA Omaha

Sioux City

Carl F. Bucherer Gucci Hanhart Maurice Lacroix Michele

Country Club Plaza 220 Nichols Rd. Kansas City, MO 64112 816-531-5800 www.tivol.com

Panerai Patek Philippe Rolex Shinola TAG Heuer Tudor

3525 West 69th St. Galleria Edina, MN 55435 952-926-2455 www.sjewelers.com Frederic Constant Hamilton

Oris Tavannes

Gunderson’s Jewelery Village Pointe 17255 Davenport St., Ste. 111 Omaha, NE 68118 402-935-6332 www.gundersons.com Carl F. Bucherer Gucci Hanhart Maurice Lacroix Michele

Raymond Weil Seiko Tissot Victorinox Swiss Army

NEW HAMPSHIRE Nashua

Barmakian Jewelers 300 Daniel Webster Highway Nashua, NH 03060 603-888-7800 www.barmakian.com Baume & Mercier Breitling Chopard Concord Ebel Franck Muller Hamilton Longines Michele

Mont Blanc Movado Omega Oris Rado Raymond Weil TAG Heuer Tissot

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Directory of American Watch Guild Authorized Retailers

NEW JERSEY

NEW YORK

OHIO

Cranford

Brooklyn

Canton

Martin Jewelers

Simpson Jewelers

Gasser Fine Jewelers

12 North Ave. West Cranford, NJ 07016 908-276-6718 www.martinjewelers.com

4922 13th Ave. Brooklyn, NY 11219 718-871-0120 www.simpsonjewelers.com

205 Third St. NW Canton, OH 44702 330-452-3204 www.gasserjewelers.com

Baume & Mercier Breitling Breitling for Bentley Cellini by Rolex Ebel Michele

Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Bedat & Co. Breitling Cartier Concord Corum

Bulova Accu-Swiss Filip and Co.

Omega Rolex Cellini by Rolex Tudor Victorinox Swiss Army TAG Heuer

Livingston

New Rochelle

George Press Fine Jewelers

T & R Jewelers

74 South Livingston Ave. Livingston, NJ 07039 973-992-7797 www.georgepress.com Alor Bertolucci Philip Stein

Victorinox Swiss Army

Princeton

Hamilton Jewelers 92 Nassau St. Princeton, NJ 08542 609-683-4200 www.hamiltonjewelers.com Baume & Mercier Breitling Cartier Chanel G-Shock Hamilton Jaeger-LeCoultre Michele

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Dior Ebel Harry Winston IWC Michele Piaget Raymond Weil

Panerai Patek Philippe Rolex Shinola TAG Heuer Tudor Victorinox Swiss Army

Spring 2015

557 Main St. New Rochelle, NY 10801 914-636-7110 www.trjewelers.com Audemars Piguet Baume & Mercier Breitling Cartier Citizen Ebel Franck Muller Luminox Michael Kors

Michele Mont Blanc Movado Officine Panerai Omega Piaget Raymond Weil TAG Heuer

Rochester

Cornell’s Jewelers 3100 Monroe Ave. Rochester, NY 14618 585-264-0100 www.cornellsjewelers.com Breitling Chopard Hamilton Longines Luminox Michael Kors

Michele Oris Philip Stein Tissot Tory Burch

Gasser Signature Rolex

Cleveland

Alson Jewelers 28149 Chagrin Blvd.

Cleveland, OH 44122 216-464-6767 alsonjewelers.com Baume & Mercier Cartier David Yurman Michele Raymond Weil Rolex

Shinola TAG Heuer Tudor Victorinox Swiss Army

PENNSYLVANIA Mars

Casa D’Oro Jewelers Sheraton Inn Pittsburgh North 910 Sheraton Dr..

Mars, PA 16046 724-776-2424 www.casadoro.com Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Breitling Burberry Cuervo y Sobrinos H. Moser & Cie. Louis Monet Michael Kors Michele Montblanc

Philip Stein Raymond Weil Ulysse Nardin Omega Shinola TAG Heuer Tissot U-Boat Zodiac

AM

PENNSYLVANIA

Dallas

ARUBA

Scranton

deBoulle Diamond & Jewelry

Oranjestad

(CONT)

Boccardo Jewelers 201 Jefferson Ave. Scranton, PA 18503 570-344-9021 www.boccardojewelers.com Breitling Bulova Fortis Luminox Michele Oris Philip Stein Raymond Weil

Seiko TAG Heuer TechnoMarine Tory Burch Toy Watch Victorinox Swiss Army Zenith

SOUTH DAKOTA Sioux Falls

Gunderson’s Fine Jewelery Bridges at 57th 2109 West 57th St. Sioux Falls, SD 57108 605-338-9060 www.gundersons.com Carl F. Bucherer Gucci Hanhart Maurice Lacroix Michele

Raymond Weil Seiko Tissot Victorinox Swiss Army

6821 Preston Rd. Dallas, TX 75205 214-522-2400 www.deBoulle.com Bell & Ross Blancpain Buccellati Corum F.P. Journe Girard-Perregaux

Greubel Forsey Jaeger-LeCoultre Patek Philippe Rolex Tudor

Frisco

Alpina Bell & Ross Franck Muller Frederique Constant Glashutte Original Michael Kors Mido Luminox

Oris Perrelet Richard Mille Roger Dubuis Seven Friday Ulysse Nardin

8355 Gaylord Parkway Frisco, TX 75034 214-705-9913 www.markhamfinejewelers.com

J.E. Irausquin Blvd. #382A Oranjestad, Aruba 011-297-583-6833 www.timesquarearuba.com

Alpina Bell & Ross Breguet Breitling Bvlgari Cartier Frederique Constant Hublot

Alpina Bell & Ross Cvstos Franck Muller Frederique Constant Glashutte Graham Hamilton Michael Kors

IWC Luminox Michele Perrelet TAG Heuer Victorinox Swiss Army Zenith

Mido Mulco Oris Perrelet Rado Seven Friday Tissot TW Steel Ulysse Nardin

WASHINGTON Seattle

Amarillo

1407 Fifth Ave. Seattle, WA 98101 206-447-9488 www.turgeonraine.com

Armour Lite Michele

L.G. Smith Blvd., #15 Oranjestad, Aruba 011-297-583-6833 www.littleeuropearuba.com

Time Square

Turgeon-Raine

809 South Tyler St. Amarillo, TX 79101-2305 806-373-1067 www.duncanandboyd.com

Little Europe

Markham Fine Jewelers

TEXAS Duncan & Boyd Jewelers

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Patek Philippe

Victorinox Swiss Army

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watch collector FABERGÉ VISIONNAIRE I The Fabergé Visionnaire I is a flying tourbillon that dominates a dial that is constructed of trapeze-shaped German silver panels. These panels are guilloched and given a blue PVD treatment, and allow a glimpse of the rest of the movement between each one, with a domed crystal covering the entire dial. The bridges and mainplate are made of German silver, and the case shown here is platinum and titanium.

There is also a red gold and platinum version with black PVD treatment on the panels. It is a limited edition of 15 pieces.

Fabergé www.faberge.com

AUDEMARS PIGUET MILLENARY QUADRIENNIUM The Millenary Quadriennium is a quadriannual calendar that requires adjustment only once every leap year. It contains the hand-wound Caliber 2905/ B01 with Audemars Piguet’s proprietary escapement, which includes a double balance spring for improved accuracy. The unique oval shape frames a multi-level dial, including an off-centered enamel dial with hours and minute hands and a calendar function on the inner dial. A smaller subdial counts seconds.

Audemars Piguet 888-214-6858 www.audemarspiguet.com

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Spring 2015

watch collector ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY DATE 40 The dial of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day Date 40 is striking for its ice blue color, used exclusively on the brand’s platinum watches, of which there are very few.

The dial is decorated with a subtle diagonal motif in a sunray finish. The COSC-certified movement is the chronometer-certified automatic Caliber 3255. The 40mm case is platinum, and it is fitted with a platinum President-style bracelet and Rolex’s signature cyclops window over the date. It is water resistant to 100 meters.

Rolex 212-758-7700 www.rolex.com

ZANETTI ROSA VENTORUM The Zannetti Rosa Ventorum is distinguished by a dial made of 10,000-year-old wooly mammoth ivory that is hand engraved and painted by Riccardo Zannetti himself. Housed in a 47 mm case with a sapphire crystal, the watch is powered by a decorated ETA 2892 movement. It comes on a black crocodile strap with deployant buckle. Available in a variety of colors, the watch can also be made as a one-of-a-kind custom piece at the customer’s request.

Zannetti 401-846-0598 www.grenons.com

Spring 2015

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watch collector CHANEL J12 SKELETON OPEN-WORKED FLYING TOURBILLON The J12 Skeleton Open-Worked Flying Tourbillon is a limited edition of only 20 pieces in the world. The movement is an exceptional caliber with a diamond-set tourbillon cage in the shape of a star. Like all Chanel movements, the caliber is made exclusively for the brand

by Renaud & Papi, one of Switzerland’s most prestigious movement makers. The case and bracelet are made of black ceramic.

Chanel Inc. 212-688-5055 www.chanel.com

HERMÈS ARCEAU VAGUES ET COQUILLAGES The Arceau Vagues et Coquillages (waves and shells) is a pocket watch with an elaborately engraved 18k gold cover. The lacework pattern depicting waves and shells is all carved and polished by hand. Underneath the cover, the dial is surfaced in grand feu enameling in a “hawk’s eye” color. The movement is the automatic Caliber H1837, with a 50 hour power reserve. It is one of three unique pieces. The other two are rendered in white gold with two dial options.

Hermès 800-441-4488 www.Hermes.com

watch collector PATEK PHILLIP REF. 5370 The Patek Phillip Ref. 5370 split-seconds chronograph contains the manual-wound Caliber CHR 29-535. The watch, with a platinum case, has two pushers for the basic start, stop, reset functions and an additional on/ off button on the crown for the split-seconds function. A new isolator uncouples the split-seconds wheel from the chronograph wheel to eliminate unwanted friction. The dial is crafted in black enamel, with applied numerals in white gold, as is customary for all of the manufacture’s platinum cases. A flawless Top Wesselton diamond is set in the caseband at 6 o’clock. There is a tachymeter on the bezel calibrated to 1,000 meters.

Patek Philippe 212-218-1240 www.patek.com

ULYSSE NARDIN ANCHOR TOURBILLON The Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon is the outcome of eight years of research. It is a constant force escapement with the balance spring, anchor and escapement wheel all made of silicon, eliminating all friction. It is engineered to precisely regulate the amplitude of the energy from the barrel to the escapement – something that is conventionally done with a separate mechanism.

Ulysse Nardin has been a pioneer in Silicon technology in watchmaking. The watch is housed in a white gold case with a white grand feu enamel dial. It is a limited edition of 18 pieces.

Ulysse Nardin 561-988-8600 www.ulysse-nardin.com

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As a Service to Our Readers If you would like a catalog or the name and address of the nearest authorized dealer, please contact our advertisers.

Mention that you saw them in Chronos when you call. Visit us at www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com LUMINOX LUMONDI 2301 Kerner Blvd., Ste. A San Rafael, CA 94901 Tel: 415-455-9500 www.luminox.com

CHOPARD 800-CHOPARD www.US.Chopard.com

MERKAVA WATCHES Tel: 866-963-3777 www.merkavawatches.com

CITIZEN 1200 Wall Street West Lyndhurst, NJ 07071 Tel: 201-438-8150 www.citizenwatch.com

MOVADO 650 From Road Paramus, NJ 07652 Tel: 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com

HERMES 55 East 59th Street New York, NY 10022 Tel: 800-441-4488 www.hermes.com

MTM SPECIAL OPS WATCH 1225 South Grand Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90015 Tel: 800-284-9487 Tel: 213-741-0808 www.specialopswatch.com

SwissKubiK Luxury Products Intl.

20 Spyglass Point Circle Bedford, NH 03110 Tel: 347-329-2971 www.LuxuryProductsInternational.com

NIALL WATCH 1810 Cherry Street Kansas City, MO 64108 Tel: 816-301-7902 www.niallluxury.com

SZANTO Tel: 415-455-9500 www.szantotime.com

KIENINGER USA North Coast Imports 74 Front St. Berea, OH 44017 Tel: 877-265-7810 www.KieningerUSA.com L’EPEE CLOCKS North Coast Imports 74 Front St. Berea, OH 44017 Tel: 877-265-7810 www.LepeeUSA.com

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RAYMOND WEIL 635 Madison Ave., 6 Fl. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-355-3350 www.raymond-weil.com

40 NINE UNIVERSAL WATCH CO. 5016 Schuster St. Las Vegas, NV 89118 Tel: 800-360-2586 www.teno.com

Spring 2015

ROLEX WATCH USA 665 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-758-7700 www.rolex.com SWISS INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES Tel: 877-FLY-SWISS www.swiss.com

NORMALZEIT Tel: 201-456-9733 www.lichterloh.com/normalzeit

TAVANNES P. O. Box 85 Valencia, PA 16059 Tel: 412-600-4240 www.tavanneswatches.com

PIAGET 645 Fifth Ave. 6 Fl. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 877-8-PIAGET www.piaget.com

WEMPE JEWELERS 700 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10019 Tel: 212-397-9000 www.wempe.com

The precision of a Swiss watch, neatly packaged in an airline.

In Switzerland, commitment to high quality comes standard. So it goes with us. The combination of personal service, award-winning cuisine, and fully at beds allow you to arrive relaxed. Last but not least because we arrive on time. Precisely on time. For information or reservations for nonstop ights from the USA to Switzerland, contact your travel agent or visit us on swiss.com

P-38 Lightning™ Valjoux Chronograph No. 9461: 44 mm, brushed stainless steel case, screw down crown & case back, antireflective sapphire crystal, fixed stainless steel bezel with an aluminum tachymeter top ring, water resistant to 200 meters, black leather strap with steel signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made.

A tribute to Lockheed Martin’s legendary twin-boomed WWII Fighter Plane.

The Luminox P-38 Lightning™ Series is part of the

Collection.

www.luminox.com facebook.com/Luminox

FOR THE CURIOUS, THE COLLECTOR AND THE CONNOISSEUR

Spring 2015 $6.95

SPRING 2015 •

NUMBER ONE HUNDRED FOURTEEN

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