Chronos #113 Winter/Spring 2015

$6.95

FOR THE CURIOUS, THE COLLECTOR AND THE CONNOISSEUR

Winter/Spring 2015

WINTER/SPRING 2015 •

NUMBER ONE HUNDRED THIRTEEN

Le Vian Time Chocolate Gladiator®

S:16.25 in

RALPH LAUREN

P-38 Lightning™ Chronograph No. 9441: 44 mm, brushed stainless steel case, screw down crown & case www.luminox.com back, antireflective sapphire crystal, fixed stainless steel bezel with an aluminum tachymeter top ring, facebook.com/Luminox water resistant to 200 meters, black leather strap with steel signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made.

F Otwin-boomed R A C O MWWII P L EFighter T E L Plane.

IST OF STORES: A tribute to Lockheed Martin’s legendary R A L PHL AUR EN WATCHE S .COM

The Luminox P-38 Lightning™ Series is part of the

Collection.

T:10.875 in

S:10.375 in

Introducing The RL67 Safari Chronometer

S:16.25 in

RALPH LAUREN

FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF STORES: R A L PHL AUR EN WATCHE S .COM

T:10.875 in

S:10.375 in

Introducing The RL67 Safari Chronometer

Winter/Spring 2015

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No. 113

LE VIAN

Editor's Outline

Jeweled Timepieces Page 28

8 News

Movado’s New Classics

Previews

54

28

Luminox Celebrates its 25th Anniversary

by Carol Besler

Le Vian Jeweled Timepieces Skeletonized Movements

32

Page 42

58 LeMay America’s Car Museum

by Stuart Leuthner

Best of SIHH 2015

by Carol Besler

38 42

Chanel Collectible Camelias

by Carol Besler

52

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Ralph Lauren Timepieces Always Elegant

50

LUMINOX CELEBRATES 25TH ANNIVERSARY! Page 54

64 Corning Museum of Glass

by Andrew Siskind

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Piaget From ultra-thin movements to skeleton watches

by Carol Besler

64th Annual Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance

by Denis L. Tanney

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Jaeger-LeCoultre The Watchmaker’s Watchmaker

by Carol Besler

Watch Collector

LeMay - America’s Car Museum Page 58

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CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is published bi-monthly for $30.00 per year by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the February/March issue. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CHRONOS at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557

EDITOR'S OUTLINE For our readers, the curious, the collector and the connoisseur, Chronos directs one’s thinking toward the pursuit of excellence. The magazine’s focus on mastery, sense of expertness, capability and the extraordinary, invites the inclusion of articles that more than demonstrate these qualities.

Le Vian, a company that presents the extraordinary is offering new timepieces that are sexysleek in both design and color, and coordinate with the company’s best-selling jewelry. See story on page 28. With a multi-layered process, the collection exhibits Le Vian’s commitment to be defined as the world’s newest lifestyle brand.

The new Movado Museum Classic and the Movado Sapphire models are sophisticated variations on Movado’s iconic design themes. They confirm the brand’s mastery of streamline design in timepieces. See story page 52.

Since its founding, Jaeger–LeCoultre has developed an outstanding 1,249 movements, something no other brand has come close to achieving even now. On page 48 read about the excellence that enables one to call Jaeger-LeCoultre the watchmaker’s watchmaker.

The self-powered illuminations of Luminox watches have made them the ultimate night vision gear for serious athletes, rugged outdoorsman and other peak performers. They glow more brightly than conventional luminous timepieces and will do so for up to 25 years in any light condition. See the story on page 54.

On page 42 we have included a story for those experts on all things complicated in the world of watchmaking. Piaget’s mastery in creating ultra-thin movements makes the brand ideally poised to perfect the art of skeletonization. The art of refining movements to their basic format in which all but the most essential components are cut out and then finished, decorated and sometimes gem-set, results in a spectacular view into the heart of mechanical watchmaking.

Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance has endured for 64 years and attained such high status that it is known as the best of the best in the entire world. To win at Pebble Beach is considered the highest achievement in the show car world. See this story on excellence being judged, page 68.

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Winter/Spring 2015

news NEW OPENING FOR JAEGER-LECOULTRE Jaeger-LeCoultre recently opened a new boutique in the heart of the vibrant Miami Design District. Jaeger-LeCoultre ambassador Eduardo Novillo Astrada, a renowned polo player, attended the opening event, as did photographer Astrid Muñoz.

The venue was inaugurated with a ribbon-cutting ceremony attended by JaegerLeCoultre CEO Daniel Riedo and North America president Philippe Bonay.

To celebrate the opening, Jaeger-LeCoultre exhibited a special collection of timepieces from its iconic Reverso collection, from historic models to the current collection. A special guest was Eduardo Fagliano from Casa Fagliano, the famous custom polo boot maker in Buenos Aires.

Winter/Spring 2015

No. 113

PUBLISHER & EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bertram Kalisher ASSOCIATE EDITOR Nancy K. Siskind MANAGING EDITOR Patricia Renzo ART DIRECTOR Raj Walia ONLINE EDITOR Samuel Siskind WATCH & JEWELRY EDITOR Carol Besler WRITERS Jeff Prine Carol Besler Stuart Leuthner Bertram Kalisher Marceline Kalisher

Ribbon-cutting with Astrid Muñoz, Eduardo Novillo Astrada, Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Daniel Riedo and Jaeger-LeCoultre President North America Philippe Bonay.

PHOTOGRAPHY Keiko Makishima AUTOMOTIVE EDITOR Denis L. Tanney PRODUCTION OFFICE Chronos 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516 Ads@ChronosWatchMagazine.com EXECUTIVE OFFICE EDITORIAL ADVERTISING 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516; Fax: (516) 374-5060 www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new boutique in the Miami Design District.

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Photographer Astrid Muñoz and Polo player Eduardo Novillo Astrada.

CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557. Copyright 2011 by Kalbe Associates, Inc. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in CHRONOS. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts. Subscriptions: $6.95 per copy; $30.00 per year in the United States; add $18.00 per year for foreign postage.

Winter/Spring 2015

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SCHAUMBURG WATCH Ice Crystal

The L.U.C Collection Each part is a masterpiece The

width

of

the

blade

guaranteeing

the

suppleness of the three patented hammers in the L.U.C Chrono One is calculated to enable the chronograph hands to be swiftly and gently reset to zero. Making this vital part too thick would result in a rough jerking motion, while if it were too thin, the hands might not return at all. Like every component in the L.U.C Calibre 03.03-L, each hammer is hand-decorated and finished by the artisans at Chopard Manufacture. The L.U.C Chrono One houses a movement that is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

L.U.C CHRONO ONE

Discover the Wor ld o f C ho pa r d: New Yor k • Madis o n A v e nue Miami • Bal Har b o ur S ho ps Costa Mesa • Sout h C o a s t Pla z a Las Veg as • Wyn n H o t e l & R e s o r t Exp lor e the collec tio n a t us . c ho pa r d. c o m For in for ma tion c a ll us a t 1- 800-C H OPA R D

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Distributed by ATLG (401)952-4684

3/17/15 4:56 PM

news TIFFANY CELEBRATES NEW COLLECTION Tiffany & Co. recently held an event to launch its new timepiece collection, the Tiffany CT60, which is named for company founder Charles Lewis Tiffany. It was C.L. Tiffany who coined the phrase, “New York Minute: 60 seconds of pure possibility.” The design of the watch is inspired by a Tiffany & Co. gold watch given to U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1945. The launch event was hosted by Nicola Andreatta, vice-president and general manager of Tiffany Switzerland Watch Company. The event was attended by Bertram Kalisher, publisher of Chronos magazine.

Bert Kalisher, publisher of Chronos magazine, and Nicola Andreatta, vice president and general manager of Tiffany & Co.

MOVADO CELEBRATES BASEL WITH PHOTOGRAPHY EXHIBITION The Movado Group, long a supporter of the arts, sponsored a photography exhibition by Joel Sternfeld to celebrate the opening of Baselworld. His pictures were on display in the Movado Group’s exhibition space at the watch show, held in Basel, Switzerland. On view was a selection of nine photographs from the seminal body of work “American Prospects,” plus photographs from the more recently released “First Pictures.” Taken during the ’70s and ’80s in locations throughout the United States, these evocative color pictures depict America, its inhabitants and the traces left by people on the landscape.

“We are excited to share the extraordinary work of acclaimed photographer Joel Sternfeld at Baselworld this year,” says Efraim Grinberg, Chairman & CEO of Movado Group.

“This marks the second year we have occupied our exceptional new exhibition space. We could not be more pleased with its success from a both a business and design perspective.

It affords us a unique opportunity to host exciting, innovative artistic and cultural exhibits that expand and enhance the Movado Group experience.”

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©Joel Sternfeld McLean, Virginia, December 1978 Joel Sternfeld; Courtesy of the artist and Luhring Augustine, New York

©2014 movado group, inc.

Movado/Imtech mg011056a Proof 1

SEE IT. TOUCH IT. FEEL IT. WEAR IT. ONLY 250 PEOPLE WILL EXPERIENCE ONE OF THE PUREST UNIONS OF FORM MEETS FUNCTION – THE MOVADO PARLEE ™

AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH. INSPIRED BY THE ENGINEERING OF ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST ADVANCED ROAD BIKES, THIS FLUID 2014 LIMITED EDITION TIMEPIECE IS BUILT WITH 250 LAYERS OF UNIDIRECTIONAL CARBON FIBER – A MATERIAL PIONEERED AND PERFECTED BY PARLEE CYCLES. STRUCTURAL YET FLEXIBLE, THIS BREAKTHROUGH MATERIAL IS CAPTURED IN THE BEZEL AND LINKS – BECOMING AN INTEGRAL PART OF THIS MASTERFUL 46MM DESIGN THAT FEATURES A FINE SWISS MOVEMENT WITH 48-HOUR POWER RESERVE AND INDIVIDUALLY NUMBERED EXHIBITION CASE-BACK. CHOOSE FROM FOUR COLOR ACCENTS. EXPERIENCE IT AT MOVADO.COM/PARLEE AND SELECT FINE JEWELERS.

TO CELEBRATE THIS UNIQUE COLLABORATION, MOVADO IS DONATING TO WORLD BICYCLE RELIEF. LEARN MORE AT WORLDBICYCLERELIEF.ORG

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HUBLOT SIGNS ON SUPERMODEL Swiss watch brand Hublot recently introduced its latest brand ambassador, internationally renowned supermodel Bar Refaeli, at a party at the brand’s New York City boutique. She joins fellow ambassadors Kobe Bryant, Shawn “Jay Z” Carter, Dwyane Wade, Pelé, Usain Bolt and others. Refaeli will star as the face of Hublot’s ladies’ campaign. “I’m extremely excited to be the first female face for the Hublot brand,” she says. “I’ve been a huge fan for many years and am so proud to be a part of the family now.” Hublot chairman Jean-Claude Biver commented, “It is a thrill for our brand to be partnering with international supermodel Bar Refaeli. It is through this partnership that Hublot will take our ladies’ 2015 campaign to the next level with a star that is renowned in all of our markets across the world.”

Refaeli is known throughout the world as one of the top supermodels of her time. She has graced the covers of top magazines, including ELLE, Marie Claire, Harper’s Bazaar, GQ and Glamour, and appeared in campaigns for Chanel, Moet & Chandon and Escada.

Fellow brand ambassador Dwyane Wade and Model Bar Refaeli at the Hublot boutique in New York City.

(Photo by Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images for Hublot)

Dwyane Wade, Model Bar Refaeli and Hublot chairman Jean-Claude Biver attend the inauguration of supermodel Bar Refaeli as newest brand ambassador.

(Photo by Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images for Hublot)

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news TAG HEUER’S NEW IT GIRL Model Cara Delevingne is the new ambassador for TAG Heuer.

TAG Heuer held Cara Delevingne’s welcome fête in the Salle Melpomène, the most beautiful room in the Ecole des Beaux Arts de Paris during Fashion Week. She was accompanied by a lion cub. She wore a TAG Heuer Formula One steel and black ceramic chronograph set with diamonds.

TAG Heuer ambassador Cara Delevingne with lion cub.

AUDEMARS PIGUET IN LAS VEGAS Audemars Piguet has opened a new boutique in Las Vegas at the Shops at Crystals. This is Audemars Piguet’s third boutique in the United States. The other two are in New York City and at Bal Harbour Shops in Miami. The 1,270-square-foot boutique, situated on the first floor between Tom Ford and Louis Vuitton stores, showcases a design that captures the 140-year old brand’s core values: origins, artistry and extraordinary relationships. The blend of wood and metal, along with images of the idyllic landscapes of Le Brassus, immerse clients in the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, headquarters of Audemars Piguet. The boutique is divided into two spaces: The Manufacture, with detailed product displays and a watchmaker corner, and The House, with a full service bar and lounge where clients can relax with an espresso or a cocktail.

The Audemars Piguet boutique in Las Vegas.

The new boutique in Las Vegas is a partnership between Westime and Audemars Piguet. “We are proud to further reinforce our relationship with Westime through the opening of the Audemars Piguet boutique at The Shops at Crystals,” says Xavier Nolot, CEO of Audemars Piguet North America. Westime is a luxury timepiece retailer with four locations in California.

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The Audemars Piguet boutique in Las Vegas at the Shops at Crystals.

NOM

Water-resistant in the most elegant way: Ahoi from NOMOS Glash端tte

Find out more about this and other models at nomos-glashuette.com, or order online at nomos-store.com

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previews RALPH LAUREN The Automotive Chronometer contains the Caliber RL300-1, certified as a chronometer. The emphasis on clarity in measuring time to the second is shown by such details as the outer screwed-down track for the seconds hand, which also secures the elm burl dial decor. The black oxidized sword-shaped hands and beige-colored Super-LumiNova are characteristic of the Automotive collection.

There are two versions, one 45 mm in diameter, and the other, 39 mm.

Ralph Lauren Watches 877-639-7934 www.ralphlaurenwatches.com

MONTBLANC The Heritage ChronomÊtrie Annual Calendar Vasco da Gama has a moon phase indicator that tracks the phases for the Southern Hemisphere in tribute to Vasco da Gama’s exploration there. The series is limited to 238 watches as an allusion to the Cape Point Peak lighthouse, which was built at 238 meters above sea level at the Cape of Good Hope. It contains Caliber MB 29.18.

Montblanc 800-995-4810 www.montblanc.com

ROGER DUBUIS The Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon contains the open-worked handwound Caliber RD01SQ, with balance that is adjustable in six positions. It has an openworked flange as well, with a red aluminum background that is matched on the crown. The case is titanium and black DLC titanium. It is a limited production of 188 pieces.

Roger Dubuis 888-738-2847 www.rogerdubuis.com

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previews PARMIGIANI FLEURIER The Tonda 1950 Gold Bracelet is an ultra-thin dress watch with contemporary classic styling. It has a slim, streamlined profile and long, tapered markers instead of numerals. Functions are limited to hours, minutes and seconds. This is the first time the model has been presented on a gold bracelet; previously it was available only with a Hermès leather strap. The dial is graphite. It contains the ultra-thin automatic Caliber PF 701.

Parmigiani Fleurier 305-260-7770 www. Parmigiani.ch

PIAGET The Altiplano Chronograph is the world’s thinnest hand-wound chronograph. The hand-wound caliber 883P measures 4.65 mm thick. In the case, it measures only 8.24 mm thick. Both measurements represent world records of thinness. Piaget makes 25 ultra-thin movements, and holds 14 world records for their thinness.

Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds, a 30-minute counter and a 24-hour dual-time indicator. It is available in 18k pink or in a white gold version set with 56 diamonds.

Piaget 877-8-PIAGET www.piaget.com

BAUME & MERCIER Baume & Mercier refers to its Classima collection of dress watches as “affordable luxury,” with options available in a variety of price points. It features a dial with a sunray guilloché finish, blued hands and discreet applied numerals and markers. There are several versions in this collection, including stainless steel or two-tone (steel and 18k gold) cases, quartz or mechanical movements, bracelets or straps and diamond options. Models with an automatic movement feature an open caseback.

Baume & Mercier 800-MERCIER www.baume-et-mercier.com

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Newspa

Contact Luxury Products International: TEL.: 347-329-2971 e: info@luxuryproductsinternational.com Facebook: Luxury Products International

www.lpi-luxuryproducts.com

Newspaper Ad.indd 2

01/04/2015 20:56:36

previews BELL & ROSS The BR 03-92 Military Type’s matte-black ceramic case is lightweight, high-performance and virtually unscratchable. The khaki dial has contrasting white numerals and hands for high readability. The watch contains the automatic Caliber BR-CAL.302. The red MT symbol screen-printed on the dial stands for Military Type. It comes with two strap options: black rubber with the BR logo or a heavy-duty khaki colored canvas strap.

Bell & Ross 888-307-7887 www.bellross.com

CONCORD The Concord Mariner Lady is designed for both men and women.

The case and bracelet are made of steel, and the dial is motherof-pearl, with a date window at 3 o’clock. The watch is set with diamonds on the bezel, bracelet links and as hour markers for a total of 1.053 carats. It contains an ETA quartz caliber. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds and date. The case is 30 mm in diameter. It is water resistant to 50 meters.

Concord Watch 800-547-4073 www.concord.ch

CITIZEN The Eco Drive Satellite Wave F900 is a new version of the brand’s multi-functional GPS satellite synchronized world timer. It includes chronograph and dual time functions that allow the display of times in two different world time zones simultaneously. The case and bracelet are made of titanium, which is five-times harder than steel and 40% lighter. It features Citizen’s light-powered Eco-Drive technology, which eliminates the need for batteries.

Citizen 201-438-8150 www.citizenwatch.com

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previews EBEL The bracelet of the Wave Lady reinterprets the brand’s classic wave motif. The case is made in a combination of stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, while the bracelet is stainless steel and yellow gold PVD. The case is 30 mm in diameter and 8.30 mm thick. The dial is composed of white mother-of-pearl inserts intertwined with waves of gold, and is set with diamonds totaling 0.24 ct. It contains the Ronda quartz Caliber 773, and it is water resistant to 50 meters.

Ebel 800-920-3153 www.ebel.com

MOVADO The 1881 collection is a new line of timepieces with mechanical automatic movements and iconic Movado Museum watch styling.

The case is 39.5 mm, and crafted in gold PVD-finished stainless steel.

A sapphire crystal caseback reveals the movement, self-winding ETA Caliber 2824.2. The black sunray dial has contrasting gold PVD accents, including markers, hands and the iconic museum dot at 12 o’clock. It is water resistant to 30 meters.

Movado 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com

LONGINES The Conquest Classic Moonphase is a refined dress/sports watch that combines a chronograph function and a moon phase display. A moon phase display serves as the background for the chronograph 12-hour counter. A 24-hour counter and small seconds counter share the 9 o’clock position, and day/month indicators are enclosed in the 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock. It is water resistant to 50 meters, and contains the automatic chronograph Caliber L678, which can be viewed through the caseback.

Longines Swatch Group USA 800-897-9477 www.longines.com 22

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JUH_A

The power of simplicity.

By going back to essentials and using clear forms, the max bill by junghans range has become a design icon of our time. It is now over 50 years since the Bauhaus artist Max Bill developed exceptionally high aesthetic standards for Junghans watches. These now enjoy cult status and are more fascinating than ever.

Bella Design Jewelers: Chagrin Falls, OH – Campanelli & Pear: Troy, MI – Golden Time Jewelers: Redwood City, CA La Garconne: New York, NY – Legend of Time: Chicago, IL – Pacheco’s Jewelry: Taunton, MA – Partita Jewelry: San Francisco, CA Rudi Peet Goldsmith: Canmore, Alberta – Sid Mashburn: Atlanta, GA – Steven Allen: New York, NY; San Francisco, CA & Portland, OR For more information call 1-855-828-1969 Junghans Watches USA Email: sales@junghanswatchesusa.net · www.junghanswatchesusa.net

JUH_AZ_MaxBillChronoscope_Chronos_USA_8,375x10,875inch_0215.indd 1

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previews IWC IWC re-invigorated its Portugieser collection this year with the new Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month and the Hand-Wound Eight Days.

The Perpetual Calendar Digital DateMonth is notable for its large digital display for the date and month. It contains IWC in-house Caliber 8980, with perpetual calendar, leap year indicator and a quick-action switch

for the large displays, as well as a chronograph with flyback function.

On New Year’s Eve, six hands and the display disks all advance at once. There are 25 pieces in platinum and 75 in each of two rose gold editions. It contains the IWC Caliber 89801.

the original Portugieser (Ref. 325) from the 1930s. It contains the IWCmanufactured Caliber 59215, with an 8-day power reserve and a hacking seconds. It is limited to 175 pieces in rose gold and 750 in stainless steel.

The Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days 75th Anniversary Edition is a minimalist design reminiscent of

IWC Schaffhausen 800-432-9330 www.iwc.com

IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days 75th Anniversary Edition.

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IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month.

See you at JCK, Booth B2504 22 sleek colors to choose from for men and women in 2 sizes Swiss quartz sapphire crystal from $275

for more information, please visit steelblaze.com, email sherri@steelblaze.com or call 800-360-2586

previews LOUIS VUITTON Louis Vuitton is introducing black DLC versions for the GMT, Chronograph GMT and Spin Time GMT models from its Tambour éVolution collection.

They include black straps embossed with a carbon effect and a screw-down crown protected by a stainless steel “V” to resemble the one company founder Gaston Vuitton affixed to his first steamer bag.

The Chronograph GMT in black contains the automatic Caliber LV92, with chronograph and GMT functions, day/night indicator and a 42-hour power reserve. The GMT contains the automatic Caliber LV71, with GMT and date functions, day/night indicator and a 42-hour power reserve.

The Spin Time GMT, assembled at the Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps

manufacture, displays home time on cubes and local time with hour hands. It contains the automatic Caliber LV111.

All three watches are water resistant to 100 meters and feature red highlights, including markers, hands and stitching on the straps.

Louis Vuitton 866-884-8866 www.louisvuitton.com

Louis Vuitton Tambour éVolution Chronograph GMT in black.

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Louis Vuitton Tambour éVolution GMT in black.

Louis Vuitton Tambour éVolution Spin Time GMT.

previews GUCCI The Gucci Dive watch is water resistant to 200 meters. The stainless steel case has a black PVD treatment and a screwed-on back that is engraved with the Gucci coat of arms. The dial is black lacquer, with luminescent hands and hour markers. There is a date window at 6 o’clock. The black rubber strap has a triple folding clasp. The movement is a quartz ETA caliber.

It is also available in a stainless steel version, and in three sizes: 32 mm, 40 mm or 45 mm.

Gucci 877-482-2430 www.Gucci.com

TISSOT The Tissot Vintage collection is crafted in 18k gold. Vintage details include Roman numerals on the dial of the automatic version or baton markers on the quartz version. The automatic version, with Caliber Powermatic 80, features a mineral glass back. A sapphire crystal covers the dial. The case is 18k rose or yellow gold, and the strap is leather with a butterfly pusher clasp. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters.

Functions include hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Tissot 800-284-7768 www.tissot.ch

CHOPARD The L.U.C Regulator commemorates the tradition of regulator clocks, which were used as a reference time by watchmakers to set the time when regulating wristwatches. There is a central minute hand but no central minute hour hand. Instead, the hours are indicated in a subdial at the 3 o’clock position. Seconds and a second time zone are recorded on two more subdials. A power reserve indicator is located at 12 o’clock. It contains the Caliber L.U.C 98.02-L, with a nine-day power reserve.

Chopard USA 800-CHOPARD www.chopard.com

LE VIAN

Sexy women’s jeweled diamond timepieces complement the lifestyle of today’s women

Le Vian’s new Hero™ timepiece collection, features for the first time jewelry-like setting work done on a timepiece of this caliber.

Le Vian

has been designing timepieces for 18 years, creating unique limited-edition watches that reflect the company’s innovations in trendsetting designs, as well as its specialty in diamond jewelry, particularly natural fancy color Chocolate Diamonds. This year, Le Vian is offering new timepieces that are sexy and sleek in both design and color and coordinate with the company’s best-selling jewelry. The

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collection exhibits Le Vian’s commitment to be defined as the world’s newest lifestyle brand.

“Up until two years ago we were making mainly limited editions,” says Eddie LeVian, designer and CEO of Le Vian Corp. “With our transformation to representing a lifestyle brand this year, we were compelled to rethink our design and production of Swiss made timepieces to better serve our

loyal collectors who desire jewelry that tells time, and who crave pieces that are sleek, curved and sexy, not just scaled down versions of men’s watches.”

“While there are lots of fine Swiss watches,” LeVian says, “what’s absent is the ladies’ fashion diamond timepiece.”

The Le Vian design process with timepieces is multi-layered. “We create jewelry pieces that tell time, such as the new bangle watch, and we make matching

Le Vian® has created a selection of fashion diamond watches to complement its most popular jewelry collections.

Malibu Wave™ timepiece in Strawberry Steel™

The Rotondo Chocolate Deco™ collection

The Cush’n Pillow™ collection The Suzy™ timepiece in Chocolate N’ Strawberry™

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The Chocolate Houndstooth™ is one of the most popular fashion motifs this year. The timepiece brings a unique take on this classic fashion trend.

jeweled timepieces that tie into our bestselling designs, including our Chocolate Hero™ and Sea Blue Aquamarine rings that have sold tens of thousands worldwide. We also innovate with fashionable fine jewelry timepieces that uniquely combine the color and design trends of the moment,” says LeVian. The timepieces incorporate details that mirror the latest trends, including Le Vian’s Pleated™ and Chocolate Houndstooth™ watches, the latter which features the Unitas 6497, a unique mechanical Swiss movement style where the dial rotates, not only to expose the movement, but also to indicate the passing hours. “Other timepieces mirror recognizable elements of our lifestyle collections, such as the repeating Le Vian logo pattern seen in our bags and scarves,” explains LeVian. “Our ultimate goal is to create a seamless look that brings together all of a woman’s accessories, each piece complementary to the others; the color, 30

Winter/Spring 2015

Le Vian’s best-selling Deco Estate™ timepiece collection featuring a Swiss Ronda movement, an elongated case and over 2 carats of Le Vian’s delicious Chocolate Diamonds

straps and dials of the watches mirroring the patterns, materials and designs in Le Vian’s jewelry, scarves, bags, belts and shoes,” adds LeVian.

The newest jewelry timepieces from Le Vian will be priced similarly to its jewelry collections, ranging in price from $1000-$5000. “Our goal is to make chic diamond timepieces which are affordable and combine Le Vian’s expert innovation with trendsetting design and color,” says LeVian. The company is known for its mastery of color.

This is harnessed not just in the form of colored diamonds and gemstones, but in the different colors of gold used; Le Vian’s proprietary Vanilla Gold, Honey Gold™ and its highly successful flavor of Strawberry Gold. “We complement the gems in our timepieces in the same manner as our jewelry, with flavors of PVD coated steel in Chocolate™, Vanilla™, Honey™, Blackberry™, and Strawberry™.

Le Vian’s gem set Bangle timepiece collection features a modular case construction allowing for numerous variations.

This application of color, combined with diamonds and innovative design concepts, makes them very wearable,” says LeVian. “We think it’s going to revolutionize the industry.”

“We are reinventing the fine jewelry timepiece,” says LeVian. “As designers of the world’s best-selling brand of fashion diamond jewelry, we bring the exacting eye of a jeweler, which we use to distinguish ourselves as a lifestyle brand.

We have a pulse on the trends from the red carpet to Main Street. We are now applying this expertise to our timepiece division. Each timepiece is created like our jewelry, beginning with an original pencil and paper sketch. Our years of catering to women with our varied collections gives us an insight into how they think, how they wear color, what they want to wear to complement their jewelry and accentuate their beauty.”

LE VIAN

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The Swiss are known for having high standards. So as the airline of Switzerland, we offer the ultimate in comfort on every ight by offering service and hospitality you can count on. For information or reservations for nonstop ights from the USA to Switzerland, contact your travel agent or visit us on swiss.com

050_300_Wing_8.375x10.875_Chronos 1

20.05.14 15:11

Best of SIHH 2015 A few stars of the 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva

by Carol Besler

A

t the 2015 SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) in Geneva in January, each of the 16 elite brands exhibiting at the invite-only fair present their new creations. As an introduction to the presentation by Van Cleef & Arpels, company CEO Nicolas Bos remarked: Van Cleef & Arpels has a very positive vision of life. We need dreams. Beauty will save the world. That is our mission.”

These eloquent words easily describe the entire breadth of introductions at this year’s SIHH, where every brand introduced what can only be described as beautiful timepieces. Here is a taste of what was introduced at the fair. We’ll reveal more treasures in upcoming issues of Chronos.

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Winter/Spring 2015

CARTIER The new Clé de Cartier is a new full collection from Cartier, with a distinctive shaped case: a circle within an oval. The watch retains all the codes of Cartier, including railroadstyle chapter ring, Roman numerals and flinqué inner dial. The crown resembles a key, hence the name (clé is French for key). To wind and set the watch, it is first turned, as a key would be. It contains a new movement, the automatic Caliber 1847 MC with a dual-direction winding system and a 42-hour power reserve. The watch is being issued in gold, with a pavé version, pictured here.

IWC

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

MONTBLANC

The IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar automatically calculates the number of days of the month. It contains the IWC automatic Caliber 52850 with two barrels for a 7-day power reserve. It is unlimited in three versions: steel with blue or silver dial (pictured) and rose gold. In addition to the month, date and day windows – ordered in the American style – it displays a power reserve indicator and a small seconds subdial.

The dial of the JaegerLeCoultre Master Calendar is made of meteorite, which has a matrix and is therefore unique on each dial. It contains Caliber 866, with a 43-hour power reserve.

Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month and moon phases. The 39 mm case is steel.

Among this year’s new introductions from Montblanc is this elegantly enameled 24-city world timer, the Orbis Terrarum (latin for “globe”) from the Heritage Spirit collection. A day/night disk shows at a glance where it is day or night on the planet.

It contains the automatic Caliber MB29.20.

Winter/Spring 2015

33

Best of SIHH 2015

34

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER

RALPH LAUREN

AUDEMARS PIGUET

The open worked movement (automatic Caliber PF705) of the Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Squelette is finished with 127 beveled edges angled by hand, each of which takes 40 hours to engrave. The case is 18k white gold and the strap, like all Parmigiani Fleurier straps, is made by Hermès.

The outstanding Ralph Lauren Automotive Skeleton is a milestone for the brand: its first skeletonized movement, a new logo and a new type of wood accent – amboyna burl, which is commonly used in the instrumentation panels of classic luxury cars.

The movement, with an IWC base, was skeletonized and blackened for Ralph Lauren exclusively by Richemont’s movement workshop, Val Fleurier. It is the manualwound Caliber RL1967.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Acoustic Research timepiece showcases new technology and materials that will be incorporated into future models. The sound of the minute repeater chime has been enhanced after eight years of in-depth research by the company’s acoustic research lab in collaboration with the Ecole Polytechnique Federal de Lausanne. It contains a new, almost silent striking mechanism regulator. The 44mm case is titanium, and it contains a hand wound manufacture movement with minute repeater, tourbillon and column wheel chronograph.

It has a 48-hour power reserve.

Winter/Spring 2015

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

PIAGET

ROGER DUBUIS

The Lange One is A. Lange & Sohne’s most iconic timepiece, instantly recognizable for its asymmetrical dial with outsize date display and prominently positioned power reserve indicator.

Introduced in 1994, and now with 15 models in the collection, the essential look and technicalities have not been altered since then.

Until now. It now has a slightly narrower bezel, which opens up more space on the dial, without changing the 38.5 mm case size.

It been given a new, technically evolved movement, the manually wound Caliber L121.1, and a twin mainspring barrel with a power reserve of 72 hours.

Piaget sets another record in the “thinnest” category, introducing the world’s thinnest hand wound chronograph. It measures 8.24 mm in the case, and the movement alone measures 4.65 mm. The new caliber, 883P, is presented in the Altiplano model, in a 41 mm rose gold case. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, flyback chronograph and a second time zone at 9 o’clock.

The Roger Dubuis World Premiere Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon is technical, sporty and glamorous. The bezel is rubber, and is set with 60 baguette diamonds (2.24 carats). The movement, handwound Caliber RD505SQ, is blackened and skeletonized in the typical star-shaped, angular Roger Dubuis style, and like all Roger Dubuis watches, it is finished to Hallmark of Geneva standards.

Winter/Spring 2015

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Best of SIHH 2015

36

BAUME & MERCIER

PANERAI

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

The Baume & Mercier Clifton Big Date and Power Reserve is a classic dress watch, with stainless steel case and applied gold Arabic numerals. It is inspired by a 1950s model from the company’s museum collection. The new Clifton contains a Swiss-made automatic movement with a module for the large date display and a power reserve indicator. The caseback is open to reveal a decorated movement, including a rotor engraved with the Greek letter Phi, the brand’s logo.

The Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days contains the Panerai Caliber P.2002E, with three spring barrels for an impressive power reserve of eight days. Functions include equation of time, small seconds at 9 o’clock and a discreet month indicator at 3 o’clock, next to which is a date window. The case is made of AISI 316L stainless steel, an alloy that is particularly resistant to corrosion. The watch is water resistant to 100 meters.

This year Van Cleef & Arpels reinvents the Cadenas, it’s iconic watch designed in 1935 and made famous in 1936 when it was gifted to the Duchess of Windsor by King Edward. The dial of the watch is discreetly angled so that only the wearer can see the time. The new Cadenas remains faithful to the design codes of the original, with three subtle updates: The dial has been enlarged, there is a more secure clasp on the bracelet, and the case now sparkles with snow-set gems.

There are nine models in the new collection.

Winter/Spring 2015

RICHARD MILLE

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Richard Mille’s new ladies’ watch, the RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur, has a unique floraldesigned cover over the flying tourbillon escapement. The cover, consisting of five petals of the magnolia flower opens or closes automatically every five minutes, or on demand. There are two barrels, one of which is dedicated exclusively to this function. The petals, hand-painted over white gold, were made by the Geneva metiers atelier Olivier Vaucher. It is a limited edition of 30 pieces.

This is a view through the case back of the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Méchaniques Gravées 14-day Tourbillon skeletonized Caliber 2260/1, with two large bridges. The movement is skeletonized and entirely hand engraved with floral motifs and acanthus leaves in a pattern reminiscent of early pocket watches created by Vacheron Constantin – which in turn were inspired by elements of classic Greek architecture. Some of the decorated components are no more than 0.35 mm thick.

Winter/Spring 2015

37

SAFARI, AUTOMOTIVE AND ART DECO

Sporting, diamond-set or high-tech, Ralph Lauren timepieces are always elegant

The Ralph Lauren RL Automotive Skeleton

R

alph Lauren continues to tap into his unique passion for combining mechanics with elegant design in his fine watchmaking collections. This year, several new timepieces were introduced in the Automotive, Safari and 867 collections that reflect aspects of the

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Winter/Spring 2015

The caseback of the RL Automotive Skeleton

Ralph Lauren design codes.

Headlining the Automotive collection this year is the RL Automotive Skeleton, a mechanical wonder that contains the brand’s first skeletonized movement. On the one hand, it has a mechanical aesthetic, with the openworked movement, the manual-wound

Caliber RL1967. The movement, with an original IWC movement, was skeletonized and blackened for Ralph Lauren exclusively by Richemont’s movement workshop, Val Fleurier. It is combined with a contrasting elegance that softens the mechanical aspect and reflects the refined Ralph Lauren style. The bezel is

The amboyna burl wood is cut and finished by hand

The Ralph Lauren RL Automotive Skeleton Winter/Spring 2015

39

Automotive Chronometers

made of an exotic wood, amboyna burl, which is commonly used in the instrumentation panels of classic luxury cars, one of Ralph Lauren’s passions.

The RL Automotive does not have an open-worked dial but one that is finished in a galvanic, matte black color with contrasting hands coated with beige Super-LumiNova. It is also fitted with a bezel made of amboyna burl, which has been hand-selected, cut and treated to give it a rich depth of color.

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RL67 Safari Chronometer with camouflage dial

It contains a hand-wound mechanical movement, Caliber RL98295, made by IWC for Ralph Lauren and features a smoky sapphire crystal caseback, reflecting the darker patina.

The Automotive Chronometer is all about accuracy. It contains the Caliber RL300-1, which is certified as a chronometer by the COSC, the independent Swiss bureau for the certification of chronometer timepieces. It has been subjected to a battery of tests to con-

firm the highest standards of accuracy and reliability. The outer screwed-down track highlights the all-important seconds function, and also secures the elm burl dial dĂŠcor. The Automotive Chronometer shares the black oxidized sword hands found in the other Automotive timepieces, as well as the use of beigecolored Super-LumiNova.

Two new models in the Safari collection intensify the sporty spirit that has long been a source of inspiration

RL67 Safari Chronometer with khaki dial

for Mr. Lauren. This fusion of the spirit of travel and adventure reflects a timeless elegance that is a defining feature of the Ralph Lauren timepiece collections. One has a khaki-colored dial and a black aged stainless steel case, and the other has a camouflage pattern on the dial with a blackened steel case and a dark olive green alligator strap. Both are available in 45mm and 39mm case sizes and contain the automatic Caliber RL300-1, which is COSC certified.

The Ralph Lauren 867 Petite Tuxedo

The 867 collection has also become iconic for Ralph Lauren. It is named after the Ralph Lauren New York flagship at 867 Madison Avenue. The store is designed in the Art Deco style, with strong abstract geometry and rich materials; elements that are reflected in the 867 collection. The case of the 867 Tuxedo has an elegant 18k rose gold case that is elongated with open, arch-shaped attachments for the strap. The 21.50mm petite-sized model is powered by a Swiss

The Ralph Lauren 867 Petite Diamond

quartz movement. The juxtaposition of black Arabic and Roman numerals against the white dial reinforce the Art Deco codes but with a modern interpretation. The 867 Petite Diamond model has an 18k white gold case set with 289 round diamonds and 12 baguette diamonds. These design features impart some of the glamour of the Art Deco style, infused with the personal style of Ralph Lauren.

Winter/Spring 2015

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From ultra-thin movements to skeleton watches

by Carol Besler

P

iaget’s illustrious heritage as a developer of ultra-thin watch movements extends naturally to the art of skeletonization. The company has created 27 ultra-thin calibers over the years, 15 of which have set world records for being the slimmest in their category. This art of refining movements to their basic format extends to the artistry of the skeletonized movement, in which all but the most essential components are cut out and then finished, decorated and sometimes gem-set, resulting in a spectacular view into the heart of mechanical watchmaking.

The process of skeletonizing movements is a highly skilled craft, involving carving away the bridges and plates to the bare essentials, eliminating much of the metal, and then finishing and engraving the rest. The trick to creating skeleton watches is the same as creating ultra-thin watches: to reduce the amount of metal without making them

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Winter/Spring 2015

unstable, something that is vastly more difficult than it sounds. Reduce the size of one wheel and you must follow suit with nearly every other component in the movement.

Reduce it by too much and you risk breakage or instability.

In some cases, components are miniaturized. Achieving this kind of reduction while maintaining stability and reliability can only be achieved through experience, since even with precise calculations, there is a degree of trial and error involved. This is why Piaget’s mastery in creating ultra-thin movements makes it ideally poised to perfect the art of skeletonization.

Piaget has seven skeleton movements. This breaks down into three skeletonized calibers – 600S, 838S and 1200S; there is a diamond version of each of these – 600D, 838D and 1200D; and there is one enamel skeleton, 1200E, a very limited edition piece in which enamel is painstakingly applied to the mainplate.

The automatic 1200S is the world’s thinnest automatic skeleton movement, at only 2.40 mm thick. It has been engraved and decorated, and the oscillating weight is made of black platinum. It is housed in the Altiplano Ultra-thin Skeleton which, at 5.34 mm thick, is the world’s thinnest automatic skeleton watch.

In 2013, Piaget took the 1200S to the next level by setting it with diamonds in Caliber 1200D, the first gem-set automatic skeleton movement made by the company and the thinnest of its kind. It is set with 259 diamonds and 11 black sapphires. Some of the gear wheels, such as the jumper cover, are only 0.69Â mm thick, and are gem-set. The Altiplano watch in which it is cased is further set with more than 400 diamonds on the case, bezel, crown and buckle.

Winter/Spring 2015

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The 600S is the world’s thinnest hand-wound shaped tourbillon. The bridges and mainplate are open worked and then adorned with a guilloché motif. A sunburst guilloché pattern radiates out from the center of the carriage. A powerreserve indicator appears directly on the mainplate at 6 o’clock. It is housed in the Emperador.

The 600D is the gem-set version of the 600S. It is adorned with 160 diamonds and seven sapphires.

It is cased in an edition of the Emperador that is set with about 180 diamonds on the case, bezel, buckle and crown.

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Winter/Spring 2015

The Caliber 1270S drives the Emperador Coussin Skeleton, an automatic tourbillon; an inverted movement with the rotor, which is blackened, showing on the front rather than the back. There is also a spectacular diamond version (1270D) that is fully set with 71 baguette and 56 round diamonds, including the rotor. This movement took three years to develop, and it takes 47 hours to produce one.

Winter/Spring 2015

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The bridges and mainplate of the hand-wound Caliber 838S are subtly decorated with 60 guillochĂŠ lines, evoking the division of time and measuring just 2.7 mm thick. It is housed in the Altiplano Skeleton 40 mm and contains the Caliber 838S.

The Caliber 838D is skeletonized and set on the 18k white gold bridges with 219 diamonds. The mainplate is set with 174 diamonds, and the screws are hidden with seven black sapphires. It is housed in the Altiplano Ultra-Thin Skeleton watch, which is set with another 216 diamonds.

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Winter/Spring 2015

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A Plus for Our Chronos Readers If you are a collector, a connoisseur, or just curious, a subscription to CHRONOS brings you the latest in watch technology and design with an in-depth analysis of individual watches. Each issue includes Watch Collector, a showcase of the latest unique and limited edition watch masterpieces. As a bonus for our CHRONOS readers we are including a subscription to ÉCLAT INTERNATIONAL, A Lifestyle Magazine featuring artistic achievement and design, past and present in the world of jewelry, art, design, travel, gardens and beauty wherever it is found.

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THE WATCHMAKER’S WATCHMAKER Jaeger-LeCoultre is the king of calibers among luxury watchmakers

by Carol Besler

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Ivy

I

n 1990, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced an edition of its iconic Reverso watch with a complicated mechanical movement. It took the watch world by surprise since, at the time, the quartz revolution was in full swing, and few companies were producing mechanical watches anymore.

Henri-John Belmont, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CEO, furthermore announced that the company would be reintroducing all of its mechanical complications over the next 10 years. Belmont’s decision coincided with an emerging renewed interest in mechanical timepieces, which has since blossomed into a mechanical revolution.

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Duometre Sphérotourbillon Moon

Part of the reason Belmont decided to relaunch Jaeger-LeCoultre as a mechanical brand was because he could. Founded in 1833 in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux, Jaeger-LeCoultre was established as a movement maker, specializing in complications. They supplied most of the elite brands, including Breguet and Patek Philippe, with movements. Jaeger-LeCoultre continually invented new calibers, along with the tools and equipment used to make them, and amassed an impressive tally of movements. Since its founding, JaegerLeCoultre has developed an astounding 1,249 movements, something no other brand has even come close to achiev-

Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon

ing, even now, when the resurgence of mechanical watchmaking has prompted most brands to develop their own.

“Not only is it part of our DNA, but we have an unusual capacity to make movements,” says current CEO Daniel Riedo, who adds that the brand has 80 calibers in production right now.

“We have developed many calibers over the years, and that gives us more autonomy. For some of our new movements, we can take an element from one caliber and add it to another, without having to start from scratch. Some calibers are easy to modify, but others are built from the ground up, which can take up to five years. We started researching the

Sphérotourbillon Moon 10 years ago,” he says. The cost? “Millions.”

Jaeger-LeCoultre has increasingly focused on producing calibers for its own watches, including some notable new inventions. The Master Gyrotourbillon series, for example, contains a flying tourbillon escapement with a unique spherical balance spring that appears to move like a gyroscope. It is a first in watchmaking. Last year’s Hybris Mechanica 11 Grand Complication with a minute repeater and flying tourbillon (Caliber 362) is the world’s thinnest automatic minute repeater, at 7.9mm thick. (It is rare for a repeater/ tourbillon complication to measure under 10mm thick.)

Last fall, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced its first minute repeater for ladies, the Rendez-Vous Ivy (Caliber 942), with a similar but new caliber designed for a 39mm case. It retains the signature trebuchet hammers and gongs that are connected directly to the sapphire crystal, but as a ladies’ piece, it is more decorative. The dial is guilloched and enam-

Daniel Riedo, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre

eled in a bright blue, superimposed with diamond-set ivy leaves from which the numerals seem to grow organically. The diamonds are continued not only to the bezel but also the lugs, crown and repeater button. “We are not only well known for our capacity for developing calibers, but also for our artistic capabilities. We are not just creating functions; we are creating decorated functions,” says Riedo.

Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced three new calibers this year. New this year for men is the Duomètre Sphérotourbillon Moon (Caliber 389). The impressive feature here, aside from the doubleaxis tourbillon with its cylindrical hairspring, is the incredibly accurate moon phase. A traditional moon phase complication shows a discrepancy of one day every two-and-a-half years, when the movement must be adjusted by a watchmaker. A more complicated perpetual calendar typically needs adjusment once every 122 years. The Sphérotourbillon Moon will not need adjustment for 3,887 years. To simplify how this was

accomplished: more wheels, and a lot of research on the way the moon, earth and planets move in the sky. Equally impressive is the new ladies’ moon phase, the Rendez-Vous Moon (Caliber 935) with a moon phase accurate to within one day every 972 years.

The Rendez-Vous Moon is Riedo’s favorite. The brand has long produced ladies’ watches in the Reverso line, but the Rendez-Vous line is its first dedicated ladies’ line, rather than an adjunct of an existing collection that is reduced in size. Five years ago, before the RendezVous collection was introduced, sales of ladies’ watches represented 20% of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s business. Today, it represents 44% of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s business.

“We wanted something for the Rendez-Vous collection that wasn’t just a high end complication, like the Ivy,” he says. “But a more middle complication. Not everyone is ready to spend sixdigits for a watch, and we wanted something more accessible.”

Rendez-Vous Moon Winter/Spring 2015

49

COLLECTIBLE CAMELIAS Mademoiselle Privé Camelia Dial Mother of Pearl

Inspired by the elaborate screens in founder Gabrielle Chanel’s Paris apartment, Chanel’s Mademoiselle Privé watches are hand crafted in mother of pearl, lacquer, gold and diamonds

by Carol Besler

T

he highly collectible Mademoiselle Privé collection from Chanel is the brand’s platform for the master crafts and gemsetting capabilities of Chanel’s watchmaking division. The pieces are also a tribute to the legendary founder of the company and are inspired by the many art works in her perfectly preserved apartment above the Chanel atelier at 31 rue Cambon in Paris. On the door of the apartment was posted a sign reading “Mademoiselle Privé.”

“We named the collection for that

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Winter/Spring 2015

sign, and the idea was to reveal the secrets of Mademoiselle Chanel,” says Nicolas Beau, the International director of Chanel’s timepiece division. “Every motif we use for Mademoiselle Privé is inspired by something in the apartment – the screens, sculptures, flowers and art works. We will not compromise by inventing a motif that does not exist there,” he says. Many of the designs reflect motifs on the sumptuous coromandel screens that Chanel used as wall covering panels. These wooden Chinese folding screens, which emerged dur-

ing the late Ming Dynasty, are coated in dark lacquer that is carved and then painted with gold or varied colors and some of the watch dials are made in much the same way. The name refers to the Coromandel Coast in India where screens and other furnishings from China were loaded onto ships carrying goods to Europe.

The camelia flower is one of the most common motifs on the screens and is used extensively in the collection. The Camelia Mother of Pearl, for example, is a high jewelry watch with the flower

Mademoiselle Privé Coromandel White Gold

depicted on the dial in engraved mother-of-pearl marquetry. It is surrounded by 330 brilliant-cut diamonds that radiate out from the center of the dial, with larger stones closer to the inner edge.

The unique, petal-shaped hands complete the Camelia theme. The bezel is set with another 60 brilliant-cut diamonds, and the buckle is set with 80 brilliantcut diamonds, for a grand total of just over 2.5 carats. This is an elite watch, which calls for a mechanical movement; it contains an automatic caliber with a 42-hour power reserve.

Mademoiselle Privé Coromandel BEIGE Gold

The Mademoiselle Privé collection also features hand painted enameled dials made by renowned Swiss miniaturist Anita Porchet. The Mademoiselle Privé Coromandel White Gold showcases not only camelias but peacocks. It was created using the glyptic technique of grande feu enamel, which uses engraved gold in combination with the enamel to create a motif. The diamonds are snow-set, which means they are set in random sizes to create a greater sparkle. It contains an automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve.

“She is a true artist,” says Beau, “and can only make 10 pieces a year for us.”

It takes 200 hours for her to complete one dial.” Pieces made by Anita Porchet are signed, and can be customized to each client. “One of the things Gabrielle Chanel did was to surround herself with people who had immense talent, and we do the same; we work only with the best,” says Beau.

Winter/Spring 2015

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'S

The Movado Museum Classic

N

ew models in two collections from Movado confirm the brand’s mastery of streamlined design in timepieces. The new Movado Museum Classic and Movado Sapphire models are sophisticated variations on Movado’s iconic design themes, all with the signature dot at 12 o’clock.

The Movado Sapphire collection has become a modern classic, with a pure,

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Winter/Spring 2015

NEW CLASSICS

The Movado Sapphire in steel

minimalist design. It takes its name from the flat sapphire crystal that covers the dial from one edge of the case to the other. There are now four new men’s models in sophisticated, monochromatic hues, including all black, all steel and all gold-toned models. All four new watches present a fresh interpretation of the famed single dot dial enriched with subtle new texture and tone-on-tone detail. They feature an outlined signa-

ture dot at 12 o’clock, modern skeleton hands and an etched minute track with pinpoint cabochons marking the hours.

There are two bracelet versions and two strap versions. The two bracelet models are distinctive for their “freefall,” non-integrated case construction, with extended rectangular lugs that seamlessly join the sleek bracelet to the polished case. The bracelet is constructed with wide center links that have a

Signature Movado designs are given a fresh new look

The Movado Sapphire all-black

brushed surface and narrow outer links that are polished. One bracelet version is stainless steel and the other is black PVD-finished steel.

The first strap version features a yellow gold PVD-finished steel case and matching gold-toned sunray dial, while the second has a black PVD-finished steel case and black sunray dial. Both have black leather straps. All four new Movado Sapphire models are water re-

The Movado Sapphire in rose gold tone

sistant to 30 meters and contain Swiss quartz movements. The cases are 5.55 mm thick, and 40 mm wide, which makes them comfortable to wear.

The Movado Museum Classic is the brand’s signature design, now available in a stylish new color combination of deep chocolate brown and camel. The 40mm case is made of warm polished and brushed yellow gold PVD-finished stainless steel. The dial is a rich matte

brown color with a contrasting outer ring that is camel-colored and infused with an eye-catching hint of metallic sheen. The brown leather strap has beige top-stitching to coordinate. The new Museum Classic is powered by a Swiss quartz movement and is water resistant to 30 meters.

Winter/Spring 2015

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LUMINOX

CELEBRATES ITS 25TH ANNIVERSARY! The watch brand that brought self-powered illumination to the consumer arena celebrates a milestone anniversary and supports marine research

by Carol Besler

The Luminox Scott Cassel UVP Special Edition

L

uminox celebrates its 25th anniversary this year with a special anniversary series of Navy SEAL Colormark timepieces. Luminox has been supplying watches to elite military units around the world, beginning with U.S. Navy SEALs in 1994. The original Navy SEAL watch was developed by Luminox founder Barry Cohen and Nick North, an officer with the Navy SEALs, who was looking for a dependable watch for night missions. This limited-edition ver-

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sion is decorated with a pattern repeating a 25XXV graphic in a choice of four color combinations. It features an ultralightweight carbon reinforced polycarbonate case, contains a Swiss quartz movement, and Luminox’s signature self-powered illumination system.

Like all Luminox watches, the Navy SEAL Colormark timepieces glow more brightly than conventional luminous timepieces and for up to 25 years in any light condition. That makes them the ultimate night vision gear for seri-

ous athletes, rugged outdoorsmen and other peak performers. No external light source is required to charge the paint on the dial, as with conventional luminous watches, nor is it necessary to push a button. With water resistance to 200 meters, a unidirectional rotating bezel and polyurethane strap, it’s an ideal watersports watch.

Another watch for collectors from Luminox this year is the Scott Cassel UVP Special Edition. Cassel is an underwater explorer and combat diver.

The Luminox RECON Leader

The Luminox 25th Anniversary Navy SEAL Colormark timepiece

Proceeds from the sale of this special watch will assist his Undersea Voyager Project, which is designed to advance scientific knowledge and understanding of our oceans’ current condition. Employing the same construction as the anniversary series, as well as the same Swiss quartz movement, this model features a bright yellow dial and comes on a webbing strap with two yellow stripes. The watch is packed in a dive mask box with a second polyurethane strap, an extender for use over a wet suit, a changing tool and a waterproof compass.

Also new at Luminox this year is the ANU Chronograph 4240, which is also authorized for Navy use. Unlike the Navy SEAL anniversary piece, it has

The Luminox ANU Chronograph 4240

a rugged 316L stainless steel case with IP black coating and 200-meter water resistance. The movement is a Ronda quartz chronograph caliber with a date function.

The new RECON Leader is the third model in the RECON series (earlier models were the Point Man and Navigation Specialist) and is also new and notable for 2015. It was designed in collaboration with former Swiss Army Military Security NCO Andrea Micheli, an internationally recognized law enforcement and military journalist and shooting instructor. Each watch in the series bears the title of a member of the U.S. Marine Corps Force Reconnaissance team. It has a split-seconds chro-

Night shot of the Luminox 25th Anniversary Navy SEAL Colormark timepiece

nograph with alarm function, a tachymeter, a countdown function, a compass and a world time function. RECON series watches are packaged in a militarystyle MOLLE (MOdular Lightweight Load-carrying Equipment) unit that doubles as a sunglass case.

But the biggest news for Luminox is that the brand that started in 1989 with the intent to bring its enabling unsurpassed self-powered illumination system to consumers is celebrating a milestone anniversary. With distribution in 60 countries, Luminox is a global brand and recognized as the market leader in this segment of self-powered luminous timepieces. Happy Anniversary!

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One Man’s Love Affair with the Automobile

LeMay - America’s Car Museum

by Stuart Leuthner

H

arold LeMay was asked if he had a favorite automobile. “I like them all,” he replied. “So I don’t go for just the dollar value car. If it has eye appeal, or is unusual, I like it.” Lemay’s reluctance to pick one car is understandable. At one time, LeMay’s collec-

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America’s Car Museum (ACM), is an international destination where families and enthusiasts gather to celebrate America’s love affair with the automobile and how it shaped our society. The stunning, four-level, 165,000-sq.-ft. Tacoma, Wash., facility features 12 rotating exhibits, five annual Signature Events and serves as an educational center, hosting students of all ages.

tion of automobiles, motorcycles and trucks, numbered more than 3,500 and represented virtually every American make and many foreign cars. In 1997, the Guinness Book of World Records listed the LeMay Collection as the largest privately owned car collection in the world. Commenting on his

father’s fascination with cars, LeMay’s son, Doug said, “I don’t know if he ever planned to get as many as he had.

It just happened. He saw another one and another one.”

Housed in a gleaming aluminumclad four-story building overlooking downtown Tacoma, Washington, the

On loan from Jeff and Edith Frank, this Ford 1956 Custom F-100 is resplendent in tangerine orange candy paint. Powered by a 1998 Ford 302-cubic inch V-8 delivering the power with an automatic transmission, the attractive hauler’s custom body work includes a front tilt hood and paneled bed.

165,000 sq. ft. LeMay - America’s Car Museum is a fitting testimony to one man’s love affair with the automobile.

In addition to the impressive main exhibition hall, more than a dozen small galleries are located in the lower floors. Approximately 350 vehicles are on display at any one time, including

examples collected by Harold LeMay and others on loan from private collections and corporations.

Born in Yakima, Washington in 1919, Harold LeMay served as a Navy Seabee during World War Two. When the war ended, he opened the Spanaway Garbage Collection Company

with one truck in Tacoma, Washington. Spanaway laid the foundation for Harold LeMay Enterprises, a group of successful business ventures the selfmade entrepreneur continued to build for almost 70 years.

A Ford Model T was the spark that ignited LeMay’s passion for colWinter/Spring 2015

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Located in the museum’s Speed Zone, the LeMay ACM exciting slot car track provides 4-lane fender to fender action that is both fast enough to be fun and easy enough to drive for beginners.

Realistic scenery includes a Dunlop Bridge inspired by the famous structure at LeMans and hundreds of miniature race fans in the stands. For an additional fee of $ 3, museum visitors can challenge the track for 10 minutes, choosing the car they want to race from a variety parked in the pit area.

Since 1948, Ford has built 13 generations of the F-Series trucks, along with numerous special editions.

The LeMay - ACM current exhibit, “The Truck that Grew Up in America” showcases the F-Series evolution from a utilitarian work implement to a fully appointed luxury vehicle capable of getting the job done. Twenty vehicles chronicling the 67-year history of the best-selling full-size pickup truck are on display in the museum’s main hall.

lecting. He was soon buying every car he could get his hands on and instructed his garbage truck drivers to alert him to cars they spotted along their routes. Friends recall LeMay purchas60

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ing a barn or field full of abandoned automobiles to save them from the scrapper. During the 1960s, LeMay purchased a defunct boy’s school in Tacoma, Washington to store his rapid

growing collection. Once a year, LeMay and his wife, Mary, would open the collection to the public. As many as 10,000 people would not only have the opportunity to see the cars, they

After checking out the museum’s amazing collection of automotive art, visitors who are itching to get behind the wheel can head to the museum’s Speed Zone and test their mettle with CXC racing simulators. For an additional fee of $8 the simulators, similar to those used by professional drivers to hone their skills, provide participants an opportunity to choose from 1,000 different cars and challenge the world’s most famous race tracks.

Opening in 1926, Route 66 originally ran between Chicago, Illinois and Santa Monica, California. It’s a road so quintessentially American that it has become a permanent part of America’s memory. Who can forget the adventures of Martin Milner and George Maharis in the television show, Route 66. The LeMay - ACM exhibit, Route 66: Dream of the Mother Road includes a collection of cars and memorabilia celebrating the millions of motorists who have traveled the iconic roadway.

would enjoy a lunch provided by the LeMay’s.

Unhappy with the breakup of William Harrah’s collection after the gambling magnate’s death, LeMay

had talked about creating a nonprofit museum to insure his collection would remain intact, but little progress had been made when he died in 2000. With the support of the LeMay

family, the city of Tacoma and corporate and private donors, the LeMay - America’s Car Museum opened in June, 2012.

Among the significant vehicles found Winter/Spring 2015

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Introduced during the Depression, the 1931 Plymouth PA Business Roadster could be driven off the lot for $595. Power was provided by a 4-cylinder engine producing 56 horsepower. Lined with heavy rubber, the PA’s engine mounts reduced engine vibration to a minimum. Plymouth advertised the innovative feature as “Floating Power.”

at the LeMay - ACM, a 1907 Pierce Great Arrow touring car, 1926 Cadillac sedan. 1930 Duesenberg Model J, 1950 Oldsmobile Futuramic 88 station wagon and a 1958 Plymouth Belvedere. One-of-a-kind vehicles include a 1949 Kuzma-Offy midget racer and the cartoon-inspired George Barris “Flintmobile” used in the 1994 film, The Flintstones.

The museum’s amenities include a gift shop, restoration shops, lecture halls, a banquet room, State Farm’s theater-in-the-round, space for storing automobiles and a cafe. Designed for kids and adults, the Family Zone 62

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provides an opportunity to interact with hands-on activities including an opportunity to get behind the wheel of a simulator and see what it feels to drive the real thing. Outside, a 3-acre show field hosts car shows, jazz concerts, swap meets and the Pacific Northwest Concours d’Elegance, a high-profile annual event showcasing many of the area’s outstanding classic and collectable automobiles. During the summer, the museum’s “drive-in” theatre shows car-related films under the stars.

Realizing Tacoma is not considered an automotive mecca, David L.

Madeira, chief executive of the LeMay - ACM believes the key to the museum’s success will be connecting with the memories and experiences people have about the cars in their lives.

“Enthusiasts only make up about 10 percent of the population,” Maderia said, “but everyone has a car they have passionate feelings about, whether it’s the ‘65 Mustang they’ve always wanted to own or the first car they ever bought with their own money.

And that’s what this place is really all about - America’s longstanding love affair with the automobile.”

One of the museum’s goals is to

LeMay - America’s Car Museum

A 1954 Pontiac Chieftain Deluxe station wagon featured in Route 66: Dream of the Mother Road.

Starting at $2,579, the wagon was one of Pontiac’s top of the line offerings and air conditioning (an expensive option) was available for the first time in this price range. The car was donated by David Kevdel whose father, Jack, a Pontiac dealer in St. Helens, Oregon purchased the car when it was new.

keep the public coming back with constantly changing exhibits highlighting the automobile’s place in popular culture. Opening during January, 2015, “Ford F-Series: The Truck That Grew Up with America” chronicles the 13 generations of Ford’s iconic hauler from 1948 to 2015.

“The F-Series is a bellwether of cultural change in the U.S.,” explains Scot Keller, the museum’s chief curator. “The exhibit tells the story of how the F-Series was originally designed to be a work tool and how it evolved into a family vehicle and luxury car for the working class.”

Baby Boomers will be blown away by “American Muscle.” Opening on July 9, 2015, Visitors will be able to revisit the 1960s and ‘70s when American car companies were one-upping each other with more horsepower and performance. “It was a time of freedom that drivers will never have again when gas was cheap and big engines growled,” Keller said. “’American Muscle’ illustrates what cars were like before politics caught up with the automobile.”

Harold LeMay never saw a car he did not like. During the 40 plus years he assembled his amazing collection;

LeMay amassed examples representing the exciting and diverse history of the automobile. Tacoma’s LeMay – America’s Car Museum provides visitors with the opportunity to share his passion.

If you would like more information about the LeMay - America’s Car Museum and this year’s upcoming exhibits the museum can be reached at 253-779-8490 or on the Internet at lemaymuseum.org

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Corning Museum of Glass

Home to Glass Art and Glass Making

by Andrew Siskind

View of the new contemporary gallery building and the renovated ventilator building, which will house a new 500-seat hot glassblowing demonstration venue. Photo courtesy of Thomas Phifer & Partners.

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F

or over half a century the town of Corning has been home to one of western New York’s most engaging, dazzling museums: the Corning Museum of Glass.

An institution “dedicated to telling the story of one material: glass,” the museum offers visitors the widest possible range of opportunities to learn about, work with, and experience glass. In addition to classic museum galleries displaying the world’s finest collection of decorative and art glass items spanning over 3,500 years of innovation and inspiration, the Corning Museum of Glass also offers workshops, live demonstrations, research opportunities, and more.

Founded in 1851, the Corning Glass Works (now known as Corning, Inc.) moved to their permanent home in western New York 17 years later and has established themselves over time as one of America’s foremost innovators. Creating brands such as CorningWare and Pyrex, they became a household name for their kitchenware, while simultaneously developing specialty and industrial glasses that have applications all over the globe. On their 100th anniversary, Corning opened the Museum of Glass as an educational facility to honor their legacy and introduce patrons to the world of glass. Since then, the museum has grown into perhaps the largest singlematerial focused space in the world, with a collection of almost 50,000 unique glass objects representing centuries of style, technology, and development.

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René Lalique, Pendant with Bishop Birds, France, Paris, about 1900-1905. Pâte de verre glass, baroque pearl, gold chain, enamel. The Corning Museum of Glass, gift of Mr. and Mrs. Glenn S. Utt Jr.

In addition to the galleries, the Museum is host to the Rakow Research Library, the foremost research library concerning glass, as well as the source of the Rakow Grant for Glass Research which funds new developments in material science and the Rakow Commission, an annual $25,000 dollar grant that supports the development of new works of art in glass. Glass blowing studios for education and demonstration, and an innovation center that focus on the chemistry, material science, and optical applications of glass round out the facilities’ current offerings, and a visit to Corning can easily consume a whole day.

The facility itself is a testament to glass as a building material, demonstrating in its design and construction myriad architectural applications of the material. This March, that display will be enlarged by

Persian Series J. & L. Lobmeyer Austria, Vienna, about 1878 Blown, tooled, applied, enameled and gilded. Collection of the Corning Museum of Glass (^^2009.3.10^^)

the completion of the museum’s new North Wing, a 100,000 square foot addition designed by Thomas Phifer. Built of massive minimalist white glass panels, this breathtaking new space will contain 26,000 square feet of contemporary glass art galleries and one of the largest spaces for glassmaking demonstration in the world. It will feature 360 degree seating around the demonstration area. The all-glass design of the building incorporates innovative light-filtering techniques, which allow skylights to provide natural light to the entire gallery, fundamentally changing the way the collection within will be viewed by visitors.

“Each of the buildings answer the need for more space that specifically addresses exhibiting glass art and making glass,” said Karol Wight, the museum’s executive director. “It’s a glassmaker’s heaven.” Says

The Coppa Guggenheim, Salviati & Co., probably Giuseppe Barovier, Venice, Italy, about 1885.

Colorless and light blue glass; blown, tooled, hotworked, gold foil inclusions. Purchased in part with funds from The F. M. Kirby Foundation.

Collection of The Corning Museum of Glass.)

Eric Meek, a glass blower and manager of the museum’s hot glass programs.

Opening in March of 2015, the new North Wing will link three generations of Glass-inspired architectural visions and cement the Corning Museum of Glass’s place as one of New York State’s must-visit museums.

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The 64th Annual

Pebble Beach

Concours d’Elegance

The Best of Show is announced, the fireworks go off and the ground bazookas release the die cut mylar images of classic cars as the overall winner, the 1954 Ferrari 375 MM Scaglietti Coupe and it owner, John Shirley celebrate their win.

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Sights for all eyes Article and Photography by Automotive Editor, Denis L. Tanney

The Best of Show was this 1954 Ferrari 375 MM Scaglietti Coupe owned by two time BOS winner, John Shirley. This was the first Ferrari ever to win Best of Show and the first post war car to win in nearly five decades. Here it sits awaiting the photographers to capture its beauty by the bay water.

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D

uring the second week in August, when the summer is climaxing, a very special group of automotive events is happening on the beautiful peninsula in Monterey, California. There are a minimum of five auctions, several featured marques- like Mercedes and Porsche with their own smaller concours, the ever growing Concours Italiano, the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion at the track and The Quail (A Motorsports Happening). The culmination of the entire week

In attendance there are somewhere north of 200 cars and motorcycles hand-picked by the selection committee to be judged by 52 authoritative judges led by three chief judges. 35 of the entries came from outside the United States. Every detail of every vehicle is closely scrutinized by the small group of judges assigned to each category. Even the motorcycles are under the microscope for perfection and authenticity. There are a lot of pluses that come out of this event besides the pride of ownership that goes along with

A selection of the classic motorcyles exhibited and judged

is the explosive and dynamic event known as the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. Held on the lush green 18th fairway of the Pebble Beach Golf Club, this event has endured 64 years and has attained such high status that virtually everyone who knows cars has heard about this show or has attended it at one time or another.

It is known quite simply as the best of the best in the entire world.

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in history, brought together a wonderful selection of 1914 race cars like the top three Mercedes that were the trophy winners that year. An Opel and two Peugeots also made up this special class.

Then there were the twenty Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa entries that were not only stunning but looked fast just sitting at the end of the fairway in their grouping. Early steam cars and streamlined Tatras (cars built in Czechoslovakia) and the first ever showing of custom bodied postwar Rolls Royce Phantoms helped round out the

The 1927 Mercedes Benz 630 K Hibbard and Darrin Convertible

having your car chosen to show.

One of the other benefits is that the cover raises well over a million dollars benefitting several charities.

Each year, Pebble invites a selection of special cars to be their main features. This year included the famous trident marque Maserati at center stage, celebrating its 100th birthday.

The 1914 French Grand Prix, often cited as the greatest GP

special groupings. Cars with the curvaceous coachwork of Fernadez et Darrin graced the edge of the Carmel Bay. But the group that dazzled everyone was the American built Ruxtons in their colorful striped combinations. The Ruxton was America’s first front wheel drive production car that never really had a chance to survive, and their production ended less than a year after they were introduced.

With their unique “cat’s eye” headlights these vehicles were years ahead of almost all of their competition. Due to snags with management and stock options and other internal problems, these cars never really had a chance to be big sellers. Matter of fact, only 19 are known to exist and 17 of them were here at Pebble on display with their vivid color stripes.

Walking the grounds is always a delight. Not only are the cars wonderful, but the attendees and participants alike are fascinating to watch. The fee to gawk at the most

people that looking at the 18th fairway from above, it is hard to find the cars through the crowd.

This year the sun poked through and the temperatures climbed by late morning making it another spectacular day at the world’s greatest car show.

To win Pebble Beach is as significant to the owner as the team winning the World Series or the Super Bowl or the Gold in the Olympics. It is considered the highest achievement in the show car world, and when your car wins, you can bet that the

One of the 17 Ruxton’s of the total 19 remaining, is this 1929 Model C, Edward G. Budd Mfg. Sedan

beautiful cars in the world has grown substantially from the early years, yet the field is completely filled with flesh pressers and photo snappers if they can get close enough as they spend their Sunday relating to these examples of rolling art. The cars begin entering the show field as early as 5:30 am in the dark, normally under heavy fog and crisp cool sea air. By 9 am the field is so full of

win, and this particular car was custom made for the famous movie director Roberto Rossellini.

This was the native Medina, Washington collector’s second Best of Show at Pebble, having garnered that trophy in 2008 with his 1938 Alfa Romeo 8C 2900B Touring Berlinetta. Best of Show carries the admiration of the car collector world and Shirley was thrilled beyond to have won this year.

The judging process at Pebble is a bit different from other Concours. First of all, in order

A few of the twenty Ferrari 250 Test Rossa examples gracing the end of the fairway near the sand traps and water

value of said car will significantly increase the moment the owner is presented the Lalique trophy. This year, for the first time in nearly 50 years, a post war car took the top honors. The 1954 Ferrari 375 MM Scaglietti Coupe of former Microsoft President and collector, Jon Shirley won. It was significant for a number of reasons; the long period since a non- postwar car has won, the first Ferrari to ever

for a car to be eligible to win Best of Show, it first must win Best in Class. And the primary focus of the judges is to ascertain authenticity and originality. There are other awards that focus primarily on design, styling and elegance. The selection in any class is daunting, but trying to pick the best of the best for the top honors is beyond daunting. The consensus was for this special built car, and everyone Winter/Spring 2015

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The 1939 Talbot Lago T150C-SS Pourtout Coupe as it leaves the reviewing stand after winning Best in Class and a long trip from Hong Kong, where it lives

1929 Rolls Royce Phantom I Brewster Riviera Town Car dressed in luxury cane

The top three Grand Prix cars from the Mercedes Team that took the top three places in that 1914 French GP race appear on the reviewing stand

Comedians Jay Leno and Jerry Seinfeld chat it up along with a friend of Seinfeld

loved the sound of the Ferrari’s strong 12 cylinder, 4 and one-half liter engine as it shook the ground with its wonderful exhaust note.

Even the color was something very different for a Ferrari…gray.

I must add a sad note to this article. Just a few weeks ago (early January), Pebble lost its Master of Ceremonies for the past sixteen years, Mr. Edward Herrmann.

Mr. Herrmann passed away after 72

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a short battle with brain cancer and the world and Pebble Beach has lost a wonderfully talented actor, spokesman, and commercial pitchman from the early Chrysler Minivan days. A man of great taste, with a voice that was as smooth as the paint jobs on the cars he talked about and loved (he himself was a collector of fine cars). He was best known in TV land as a star of The Gilmore Girls and had numerous

roles on Broadway and in movies.

Always approachable and full of humor and conversation, he will be missed by everyone. I will miss having conversations with him whenever we crossed paths. Truly a sad note.

The 64th Annual

Pebble Beach

Concours d’Elegance

The Art of Swiss Watchmaking

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Museum Watch

Richard Estes, The Plaza, 1991, oil on canvas; 36 x 66" Louis K. Meisel Gallery

RICHARD ESTES: PAINTING NEW YORK CITY Museum of Art & Design, New York through September 20 This show provides unprecedented insight into the work of Estes, a leader of the Photorealistic movement, by showing the various stages of his creative process, from photos to the finished paintings.

HERB RITTS Museum of Fine Arts, Boston through November 8 The work of this leading American fashion photographer, most famous for his distinct black-and-white images of supermoders, is celebrated in this collection of more than 50 photographs.

JOAN MIRÓ: INSTINCT & IMAGINATION Denver Art Museum through June 28 Focusing on artworks created over the last two decades of his career, this exhibition shows the artist's continued inventiveness as well as his exploration of new materials, especially bronze.

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Joan Miró, Woman and Bird, 1968, lost-wax casting, patinated bronze. Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía. © Successió Miró / ARS, New York / ADAGP, Paris 2014

Björk, "Mutual Core" video still, 2012. Directed by Andrew Thomas Huang, Image courtesy of Wellhart Ltd & One Little Indian

BJÖRK Museum of Modern Art, New York through June 7 This retrospective of the musician's art projects features sound/ video installations specially commissioned for MoMA, a continuous screening of her music videos, and location-based audio experiences.

WILLIAM POPE.L: TRINKET Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles through June 28 Recent work by the Chicago-based artist is anchored by the title piece, a large custom-made American flag hanging in a gallery, continuous blown by four fans while being illuminated from below.

INTERNATIONAL POP Walker Art Center, Minneapolis through August 29 Charting the emergence of Pop Art from the 1950s through the early 1970s, this exhibition features 140 works from 14 countries, many not typically included in pop art retrospectives.

Walker Art Center: Mimmo Rotella, Coffee Cup, 1962. Private collection, Torino, Italy. © 2014 ARS, New York / SIAE, Rome

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watch collector VACHERON CONSTANTIN The Metiers d’Art Arca is one of a collection of 12 unique crystal and mineral table clocks inspired by creations from Vacheron Constantin’s archives.

Each is equipped with a new Vacheron Constantin movement comprising a constant-force mechanism and a 30-day power reserve. Grand Feu enameling and guilloché are crafts employed in creating the clock. The base is made of obsidian. The motor organ of manual-wound Caliber 9260 is composed of two barrels, each with an over one-meter long spring, guaranteeing an almost one base is made of obsidian.

Vacheron Constantin 877-701-1755 www.vacheron-constantin.com

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS The Charms Extraordinaire Langage des Fleurs is distinctive for its charm attachments which rotate around the outside edge of the dials with the movement of the wrist. The dials on this year’s creations are adorned with buttercups, daffodils, crocuses, lilacs, wallflowers and forget-me-nots. They are rendered in various metiers d’arts techniques, including gemsetting, miniature painting on motherof-pearl and cabochonné enameling. These colorful, joyful pieces are set with spessartite garnets, diamonds, and yellow, pink and purple sapphires.

Van Cleef & Arpels 877-Van-Cleef www.vancleef-arpels.com

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Winter/Spring 2015

watch collector CARTIER Cartier’s Grande Complication is the most complicated watch Cartier has ever made. The automatic Caliber 9406 MC, with 578 components, combines a minute repeater, perpetual calendar and a flying tourbillon.

It has a platinum case with a titanium tourbillon carriage. An on-demand repeater function provides an “all-or-nothing” security feature that prevents partial activation, which could otherwise result in an inaccurate acoustic indication of the time. It is a limited edition of 50 pieces, and there will be 10 pieces set with baguette diamonds.

Cartier 800-227-8437 www.cartier.com

JAEGER-LECOULTRE The uniquely complicated features of the Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 include a crown-integrated function selector, a patented digital counter to indicate the chronograph jumping seconds, a manual stop seconds device, a radial power-reserve indicator and a GMT function enabling at-a-glance readings. The movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre automatic Caliber 780, is housed in a sturdy case made of a light and resistant TiVan15 titanium alloy. It is fitted with a high-tech, scratch-resistant ceramic bezel.

Jaeger-LeCoultre 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

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watch collector OFFICINE PANERAI The Luminor 1950 Left-handed 3 Days (Ref. PAM557) is an icon of the Panerai brand. It is a left-handed version, in which the winding crown and crown protecting device are located at 9 o’clock on the case, where winding is easier for left-handed wearers. This was originally designed for Italian Navy commandos. Like the original, it has a Plexiglas crystal over the dial. The signature cushion case is stainless steel, and it contains the handwound Caliber P.3000. It is water resistant to 100 meters, and fitted with a strap of untreated natural leather.

Officine Panerai 877-PANERAI www.panerai.com

CHOPARD The Happy Sport 30 mm Automatic has an elegant scaled-down case size, an automatic movement and the signature Happy Sport moving diamonds between two sapphire crystals over the dial. The movement is an automatic caliber. The case is stainless steel, and can be set with diamonds in the bezel. The crown, also made of steel, is set with a blue sapphire. It comes with either a steel bracelet or an elegant black alligator strap. The silver-toned dial is finished with a central guillochĂŠ motif.

Chopard USA 800-CHOPARD www.chopard.com

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Winter/Spring 2015

watch collector BULGARI The new model from the Bulgari Bulgari collection celebrates the brand’s 40th anniversary. The stainless steel case is contrasted by a vibrant, sapphire blue dial and fitted with either a steel bracelet or alligator leather strap. The case is 44 mm and houses the Bulgari in-house automatic Solotempo Caliber. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds and a date window at 3 o’clock.

Bulgari 800-Bulgari www.Bulgari.com

TIFFANY & CO. The Tiffany CT60 timepiece is inspired by founder Charles Lewis Tiffany and New York City, where he first opened his doors in 1853. The timepieces are infused with the energy and ambition summed up in C.L. Tiffany’s famous phrase – “New York Minute: 60 seconds of pure possibility.” The design is inspired by a Tiffany & Co. gold watch given to U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1945. This is a full collection with many versions, all containing automatic movements. Pictured is the 18k rose gold model, with a 42 mm case, white dial and a black alligator strap.

Tiffany & Co. 800-843-3269 www.tiffany.com

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As a Service to Our Readers If you would like a catalog or the name and address of the nearest authorized dealer, please contact our advertisers.

Mention that you saw them in Chronos when you call. Visit us at www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com

BASEL FAIR BASELWORLD www.baselworld.com BULGARI Tel: 800-BULGARI www.Bulgari.com CHOPARD 800-CHOPARD www.US.Chopard.com CITIZEN 1200 Wall Street West Lyndhurst, NJ 07071 Tel: 201-438-8150 www.citizenwatch.com HERMLE NORTH AMERICA 340 Industial Park Drive Amherst, VA 24521 Tel: 800-642-0011 Tel: 434-946-7751 www.hermleclock.com JUNGHANS WATCHES USA P. O. Box 24550 Cleveland, OH 44124 Tel: 855-828-1969 www.junghanswatchesusa.net LE VIAN 235 Great Neck Rd. Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 877-2LEVIAN Tel: 516-466-7200 www.levian.com

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Winter/Spring 2015

LUMINOX LUMONDI 2301 Kerner Blvd., Ste. A San Rafael, CA 94901 Tel: 415-455-9500 www.luminox.com

SWISSKUBIK Luxury Products Intl.

20 Spyglass Point Circle Bedford, NH 03110 Tel: 347-329-2971 www.LuxuryProductsInternational.com

MERKAVA WATCHES Tel: 866-963-3777 www.merkavawatches.com

TAVANNES P. O. Box 85 Valencia, PA 16059 Tel: 412-600-4240 www.tavanneswatches.com

MOVADO 650 From Road Paramus, NJ 07652 Tel: 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com NOMOS GLASHĂœTTE Tel: +49 30695 0848 www.nomos-glashuette.com RALPH LAUREN Tel: 877-639-7934 www.RalphLaurenWatches.com SB STEEL BLAZE Universal Watch Co. 5016 Schuster St. Las Vegas, NV 89118 Tel: 800-360-2586 www.steelblaze.com SWISS INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES Tel: 877-FLY-SWISS www.swiss.com

TUDOR WATCH U.S.A. 665 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-897-9900 www.tudorwatch.com WEMPE JEWELERS 700 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10019 Tel: 212-397-9000 www.wempe.com

S:16.25 in

RALPH LAUREN

P-38 Lightning™ Chronograph No. 9441: 44 mm, brushed stainless steel case, screw down crown & case www.luminox.com back, antireflective sapphire crystal, fixed stainless steel bezel with an aluminum tachymeter top ring, facebook.com/Luminox water resistant to 200 meters, black leather strap with steel signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made.

F Otwin-boomed R A C O MWWII P L EFighter T E L Plane.

IST OF STORES: A tribute to Lockheed Martin’s legendary R A L PHL AUR EN WATCHE S .COM

The Luminox P-38 Lightning™ Series is part of the

Collection.

T:10.875 in

S:10.375 in

Introducing The RL67 Safari Chronometer

$6.95

FOR THE CURIOUS, THE COLLECTOR AND THE CONNOISSEUR

Winter/Spring 2015

WINTER/SPRING 2015 •

NUMBER ONE HUNDRED THIRTEEN

Le Vian Time Chocolate Gladiator®