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CONTENTS 04
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Cheers to the First Music Issue
ULTIMATE BALANCING ACT Fashion and Music are BFF's
MUSIC WITH A VIEW BalconyTV BK users in the next wave of NY Music
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12 MACKLEMORE Photography by Alvin Stillwell 16
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REVERBNATION MUSIC FEATURE Alisa Sharp Lisa Jaeggi Wordsmith The Pimps Ze! Casey Automatik Eden
A DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH: HEIDI GARDNER Heidi Gardner explains her inspirations
SHE’S ELECTRIC Photography by Jenny Brough
40 31 BITS Empowering Women to Rise Up Against Poverty MUSIC TECH The Hottest Tech Developments in Music
44 48 58 64 68 76 80 82
DJ MARIE CLAIRE Photography by Simon Songhurst
CASEY DESMOND An Artist Unplugged
THE BLACK SOFT Putting the Art Back into Artist
HER MIX-A-LOT Photography by Euan Danks
A UNIFIED VOICE Music and fashion come together
GET ON DOWN Music Label Get On Down has the Whole Package
DARK HORSE Photography by Mike Lewis
BLACK MAGIC WOMAN Photography by Tiago Prisco
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100 METALLICA Photography by Simon Songhurst
IN THIS ISSUE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Hayley Maybury INTERACTIVE MEDIA DESIGNER Lucy Nersesian COPY EDITOR & FASHION EDITOR Jessica Young CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Jamall Oluokun MARKETING DIRECTOR Shomari Miller WEB DEVELOPER Jason DePeaux GRAPHIC DESIGN INTERNS Lauren Zilm Margaret Walsh
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alyssa Davis Toria Munoz Lee Hershey Alicia Strusa Lindsay Zgonina Danielle Sipple CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS/ PHOTOGRAPHERS Mike Lewis Eaun Danks Tiago Prisco Simon Songhurst Alvin Nguyen Jenny Brough Daren Black
ON THE COVER Photographed by ALVIN NGUYEN Styling ALVIN STILLWELL Hair by NIKO WEDDLE Makeup by ERIN SKIPLEY Model MACKLEMORE Macklemore wears jacket by RAG AND BONE, shirt by BEN SHERMAN, and tie by TOP SHOP
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FROM THE EDITOR CHEERS TO THE FIRST MUSIC ISSUE!
Welcome to the Music Issue Every September the fashion world gears up for their biggest month of the season. Editors around the world are running from show to show to catch spring’s hottest looks and every newsstand is filled with fall’s latest trends and color stories. While we are among those crazy editors running around NYC to make all the fashion week shows on time, we are also gearing up for a September issue that focuses on another creative force: music. Music influences us everyday. It’s safe to say, for most of us, music is something in life we just could not live without! So, while the rest of the world is thinking fashion we are switching it up and thinking music (and its influence on fashion). I think you're really going to like what we have in store for you! This month is also the start of our awesome partnership with one of the music industry’s top websites, Reverbnation (www. reverbnation.com)! Each month we will handpick a group of artists from different genres to feature and what better time to kick things off than with our music-packed September issue! So, ladies and gentlemen, without further ado we bring you the music issue! Enjoy!! xx
P.S. Our iPad app in the iTunes store is KILLER! If you have yet to download and subscribe to our latest issues, then what are you waiting for? The interactive elements will take you to another dimension!
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THE ULTIMATE BALANCING ACT: THE (AWESOME) RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN FASHION AND MUSIC Written by ALICIA STRUSA Illustration by IVAN LO Music. Fashion. Relationship status: Married. Dominating forces on their own, influencing much of everything we do, the fashion and music industry are so intertwined that it’s actually quite…well, romantic. How beautiful of a gift is music to the world that just listening to one of your favorite indie rock bands can lift your spirits and put you in a positive mood? Fashion has the ability to do the same thing. When one feels confident about what they decide to wear it’s like to walking on cloud nine. These two dynamic worlds collide, working simultaneously and evolving together as they inspire creative innovation with each passing generation. Music is a strong passion area that brands associate with themselves, building credibility among trendsetters and youth audiences. Celebrities are always seen endorsing big-name fashion brands—or of course, endorsing their own fashion lines. Today’s fashion designers deeply immerse themselves in the music scene that specifically ties in with their style. On the same note, over the last decade many musicians have also launched their own fashion lines. Whether its models dating musicians or designers creating costumes for band tours, there’s no doubt that fashion and music play key roles in being incorporated with each other. Fashion and music’s relationship can be analyzed from the past. As rock ‘n roll’s popularity increased in the 1950’s with musicians like Elvis and Buddy Holly, styles changed corresponding with the attitudes of the time period. James Dean and Marlon Brando sported outfits incorporating black leather, casual T-shirts and jeans. This became the norm for the younger generation. Fashion journalist Kate Mulvey said in a recent fashion and music blog that, “For the first time, nonconformity was shown by dressing down. Rebelling against prosperous society in the 1950’s meant going a step down the socioeconomic ladder and wearing working class clothes gave authenticity to what they were trying to say. Young people didn’t want to identify with the straight-laced, responsible attitudes of their fathers and so they dressed like a youthful version of the working man.” As the mod subculture hit its peak in the mid ‘60s, British pop music was dominating the airwaves. Teens spent the majority of their money on records and clothes. Young men were greatly influenced by the outfits and hairstyles of The Beatles. Women opted for shorter hemlines and attention to Britain extended to Mary Quant, a London fashion designer who created the mini-skirt. As 1969 rolled around and the Woodstock music festival took over a farm in New York, fashion turned to colorful patterns, vests, peasant tops, tie-dye maxi dresses and full, long skirts. Music was so influential at this time as it expressed passion, freedom and a “rise-up” attitude against big government and corporations of the working world. Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix and Jim Morrison took the stage with bohemian style that’s forever associated with the free-spirited mantra of that era. Not long after, 6
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an Italian designer by the name of Emilio Pucci reinforced the vivid pattern trend with his own trademark geometric print. These designs still live on in full-force bringing back the ever-present message of spirituality and individuality. Bright, bold patterns and prints symbolize this era’s music message: express yourself in what you wear—you have a voice. “People wanted something to hope for,” fashion journalist Kate Mulvey ruminates. “This generation of music gave them that. The spirit of standing up for what you believe in was stronger than ever, and really…it started a movement for both music and fashion.” The late ‘70s saw a revival of the leather jacket through the punk movement. Bands like The Clash and The Ramones popularized metal studs, Doc Martens, bondage pants and black leather jackets. The punk movement cannot be discussed without mention of designer Vivienne Westwood. Dressing iconic punk band The Sex Pistols, Vivienne Westwood’s subversive style is basically synonymous with propelling the gritty DIY attitude inherent with the era. Hip hop hit the mainstream in the mid ‘80s to mid ‘90s bringing along a rise in sportswear. Baggy jeans, track suits and Timberland boots with accessories such as heavy gold jewelry were the style of the streets. Baseball caps and sneakers, although traditionally athletic-wear, exemplified a “cool” and laid-back look that coincided with hip-hop music. When early ‘90s grunge hit the scene, disenfranchised youth around the world finally found their hero! Kurt Cobain, in his tattered thrift-store finds and
unkempt hair, made depression and disdain for society especially cool. The look personified as “teenage angst” gave voice to the cynical backlash of the previous ‘80s yuppie culture. As divorce rates were on the steady climb and traditional nuclear family life crumbled, kids needed a new way to subvert authority and express their dissatisfaction with life. Cue the flannel shirts, ratty jeans, Doc Martens (throwback from the punk era) or Chucks and top it off with a general lack of grooming. Currently, a quick glance at the underground fashion label Wasted German Youth stays very true to its name. A hardcore, rebellious attitude gives them a certain appealing edge and WGY’s T-shirts are the new style icon for the electronic music scene. My personal look is one of comfort. My normal everyday attire consists of skinny jeans, a slouchy tee, Forever 21 boho sandals and a baggy purse to tie it all together. I listen to a lot of MGMT, The Black Keys, Friendly Fires and Two-Door Cinema Club. This type of music combines both feel-good urban rock with electronic pop. The vibes allow me to let go and jam out, while being comfortable in what describes me. Fashion and music make us feel good and the relationship between the two is as important as they are on their own. Clothes are relevant because they convey to others what we’re about. Music and fashion influence each other greatly and will only continue to grow and revolutionize what we wear and what we listen to. Thus, it is a beautiful story—a romance between the two dynamic worlds.
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MUSIC WITH A VIEW
BALCONYTV BROOKLYN USHERS IN THE NEXT WAVE OF NY MUSIC Written by JAMALL OLUOKUN All images by CHRIS O’KONSKI What do you get when you combine music videos and awesome live performances? BalconyTV! Started in 2006, BalconyTV is a Global Internet music video network with a simple premise, to showcase musical acts performing on rooftops and balconies around the world. That’s it. No Real World Versus Road Rules challenges or Jersey Shore drama, just music. And not just any music, but live performances. Powered by YouTube, the site has amassed over thirty million video views with BalconyTV stations all around the world in cities like St. Petersburg, Buenos Aires, Johannesburg and Seoul. To better understand what goes into a typical broadcast, I ventured to Brooklyn, NY to speak with Joseph Kelley and Chris O’Konski, the team behind BalconyTV Brooklyn. I arrived at The END NYC around 5:30 p.m. on a Friday evening. Located in the Greenpoint neighborhood of Brooklyn, The End NYC is an ultra-cool music recording studio and rehearsal/event space which hosts and coproduces the shows. Joe and Chris couldn’t have picked a better location and venue. It’s every musician’s dream. If there was an indie musicians’ NYC tour, The End NYC would certainly be one of the stops. After admiring the space and frequent outbursts of, “This is so fucking cool,” I was taken to the rooftop where all the magic happens. And what a rooftop it is, with its amazing views of Manhattan’s east-side skyline. I’ve checked out all 36 or so BalconyTV stations, and the Brooklyn outpost certainly has one of the better views thus far. Although Brisbane’s nighttime views are pretty bad ass well. One of the things I was struck by is the elaborate audio setup. The folks at The End NYC actually route all of the audio for the performances through one of the studio’s audio consoles. There is a full drum kit that is mic’d, amps for bass and guitar and even monitors so the band can hear themselves. This is a legit show. Some of the smaller music venues in NYC don’t sound this good. The end result (pun intended) is a clean recording with even levels that can not be had by pointing a boom mic at the band. Once the first band was set up it was time to start shooting. Each episode is about five minutes long. Chris films the performances with his DSLR Camera and Joe is the host. The anatomy of a show is always the same: Joe introduces himself, then introduces BalconyTV and the band, then inquires about what they are playing. Joe then walks off camera so they can play their set. As soon as the performance is over, Joe walks back into the frame and uses the rest of the time to promote the band’s tour dates, album announcements and social links. As sparse as this sounds, it’s really quite brilliant. At the end of the 8
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SILAS FERMOY
HOST JOSEPH KELLEY WITH EVEREST CALE
JACOB JEFFRIES BAND 10
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day, it’s not about the organizers and the hosts, but about the talented individuals and their work. Not to mention the fact that we live in an ADD society. Anything longer than five minutes would need to be a full-length film or a show on Hulu. To get the most bang for their buck, Joe and Chris usually shoot 2-3 acts per session. This maintains a steady stream of content in their queue. On this particular day, I had the pleasure of watching performances by Everest Cale, Jacob Jeffries Band, and Silas Fermoy. Each band brought something different to the table, whether it was Silas Fermoy doing their first acoustic set (they normally perform with electronic elements), or Everest Cale channeling their inner tortured soul for a dark-rock track. The final phase is video editing. According to Chris, who does the editing, the whole process only takes a few hours with the majority of the time dedicated to processing the video and audio then exporting/uploading it to YouTube. It’s safe to say they have it down to a science. It probably doesn’t hurt that all the bands are super talented and the staff at The End NYC are very good at what they do. In addition to watching a bunch of talented, motivated and creative individuals in action, the most thrilling thing to witness was the level of camaraderie and sense of community. There wasn’t a negative vibe or “Debbie Downer” in sight. One can sense that everyone from Joe and Chris, to The END NYC staff and the bands, has a deep love for music. And that’s the real genius behind BalconyTV; it enables anyone with a passion for good music to consume, produce, promote and perform. The barriers to entry have been knocked down and a creative-arts ecosystem has emerged from the wreckage. Communities like BalconyTV are charting a new course for the future of music, and BalconyTV Brooklyn is on the front lines leading the way. WHEN DID THE BROOKLYN OUTPOST GO LIVE? JK: Chris and I launched BalconyTV Brooklyn in January 2012. We launched in the dead of winter. It was very exciting and luckily this last winter was a dry one so we didn't lose much shooting time; however, it was absolutely freezing. Going back and re-watching the videos from our launch shoot are very funny to us now. I am all bundled up and artists are playing guitar with gloves on and such. Very rock ‘n’ roll. HOW DID YOU TEAM UP WITH THE END NYC? C.O.: At the time, Joe and I were co-producing shows for BalconyTV New York which did not have any electronic capabilities. We received emails from a lot of great bands saying they wanted to be on the show, but that they couldn't perform fully-acoustic. New York is such a massive hub for all genres of music that we didn't want to have to say "no" to a band because our production lacked adequate resources. We did some digging for studios in the area and came across The End NYC so we went to Greenpoint to check it out. After meeting their staff and seeing the space, we really couldn't have dreamt up a better place to shoot.
C.O.: We've also been featuring more and more bands that are recording at The End NYC, so there's a lot of wordof-mouth that comes along with that. I will say that we strive for quality and variety in our show, so we carefully consider each artist and how they complement our previous acts. That being said, we feature acts both big and small and welcome all prospective artists to shoot us an email. We're always looking for new talent. YOU'RE NOT DIRECTLY COMPENSATED FOR BEING THE ORGANIZERS, RIGHT? IT'S VOLUNTEER BASED. YOU JUST REACH OUT TO THE BALCONYTV HEADQUARTERS AND ASK TO HOST A SHOW, CORRECT? C.O.: That's right. Starting a Balcony is relatively simple but maintaining one is the challenge. This past August marked the two-year anniversary of my first episode for BalconyTV, and I think I speak for most BalconyTV producers when I say that it's not about the money at this point in the game. It's awesome just to be able to rock out on a rooftop with friends and musicians while watching the sun set over the Manhattan skyline. The fact that we get to walk away from each shoot with a handful of new episodes is icing on the cake. BalconyTV Brooklyn is definitely something I look forward to week in and week out for those very reasons. WHAT ARE YOUR GOALS FOR THE SHOW? WHAT DO YOU HOPE TO ACCOMPLISH? JK: The immediate goal is to keep shooting and creating great videos for bands to share with their fans while also building a new fan base. I would love to partner with some companies to sponsor more videos. Also, larger bands are definitely a goal. I would love it if BalconyTV became an outlet all artists want to play when traveling through NYC. It is such a great platform and I can totally see us rocking some HUGE names soon. C.O.: I want BalconyTV Brooklyn to become the premiere resource for live music videos on the Internet and a must-stop destination for bands touring through New York. The fact that we shoot our show in one take puts us in a small group of web-based music shows, and I believe that the audio we're recording at The End NYC is what really sets us apart. A lot of bands have great music videos or a great album to promote, but have nowhere to showcase their live performances. At BalconyTV Brooklyn, we provide musicians with top-notch audio and video services for the sole purpose of getting them global exposure through our platform. We once had a band tell us that one of the biggest reasons they got signed to their new label was because of the video we shot for them. It's those kind of success stories that push us to perfect our show. If we keep helping bands reach these new heights, then I'll be fulfilled by our efforts.
HOW DO YOU GO ABOUT FINDING BANDS? JK: I work mostly with band bookings. I am always sent new music by artists and their representation. I work my hardest to give everything a listen and try to envision them on the balcony. We often sneak our friends in there sometimes as well. 11
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THIS SPREAD Jacket by RAG AND BONE Shirt by BEN SHERMAN Tie by TOP SHOP Jeans by LEVIS Shoes by NIKE
MACKLEMORE Introduction by DANIELLE SIPPLE Photography by ALVIN NGUYEN Styling by ALVIN STILLWELL Hair by NIKO WEDDLE Makeup by ERIN SKIPLEY Model MACKLEMORE Stylist assistant by KYLE MCINTIRE
“If I was gay, I would think hip hop hates me. Have you read the YouTube comments lately?” - Macklemore Progressively, music evolved into complex rhythms and multi-dimensional systems that expand and contract minds on a daily basis. At the same time, genres lock the structure of music into a tight box that is unyielding to further development of the modern world. In this case, the genre of rap is consistently a discovery land for young poets to express their life stories. Unfortunately, it’s also rigid with a set of guidelines that moderately define what rap should discuss including consumerism, drug use and explicit homophobia. In a changing world that is afflicted with a constant war between hatred and love, some artists take a stand in their particular genres and break the mold that is set before them. Macklemore is one of these artists. In his late twenties, Macklemore is a rapper who got his start in his hometown of Seattle, a city that welcomes music living on the fringe. Coiffed blond hair and a polished sense of style, Macklemore delivers a je ne sais quoi that intrigues even the disbelievers. His most enchanting quality is the honesty that lies within his lyrics, describing the realities of the human existence. Mixing styles that run from spitting syllables to lazy lyrical lullabies, Macklemore captures his life, pours it into his music, wraps it up in a nice package and delivers it to his right-hand-man producer, Ryan Lewis. Together they created their first full-length album, aptly titled The Heist, which will be released to the public in October. Two songs included on this album showcases Macklemore’s ability to carry very different ideals, including legalizing gay marriage and the encouragement of second-hand clothing, all in the artform of rap. Macklemore is part of the revolution that is changing what it means to be a rapper. With more rappers like him, hip hop may just start ditching the hate.
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THIS SPREAD Leather jacket by 7DIAMONDS Shirt by FRED PERRY Jeans by SHIPLEY AND HALMOS Shoes by NIKE
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TO USHER IN OUR FIRST MUSIC ISSUE IN STYLE, WE TEAMED U REVERBNATION, TO HIGHLIGHT SOME OF THE MOST UNIQUE A
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UP WITH ONE OF THE TOP DESTINATIONS FOR RISING ARTISTS, AND SONICALLY ENTERTAINING MUSICAL ACTS AROUND.
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ALISA SHARP Interview by TORIA MUNOZ All images by LINDA KASIAN
NAME: Alisa Sharp ZIP CODE: Cali MUSICAL STYLE: Pop FAVORITE CARTOON: Tom & Jerry HOW MANY LICKS DOES IT TAKE TO GET TO THE CENTER OF A TOOTSIE POP: I never had a Tootsie Pop! Though, I can tell you how many bites it takes to finish a Russian chocolate bunny: 18! WHAT IS YOUR MOST EMBARRASSING MOMENT AS A MUSICAL ARTIST: During this one live performance in a festival, I gave a shout out to the amazing crowd of the city... just not the city I was performing at.
PAPERCUT KUDOS: Drawing her name from the fairy tale, Alice In Wonderland, one wouldn’t think Alisa Sharp had any connection to the innocent character, Alice. Hailing from Dresden, Germany, Alisa Sharp exudes an overwhelming sense of attitude and strength in her songs. Classically trained in piano at age six at the will of her grandparents, she began to appreciate what the world of music could offer her. Actively inspired by Scorpions, Queen and Bon Jovi, her international background and exposure to these American bands shaped her musical influences that would eventually translate into her signature sound. Although one would assume that she solely focuses on music, Alisa Sharp also enjoys fashion quite a bit and even had design schools actively pursue her. Instead, Alisa decided to join the Israeli Army where she learned how to shoot a M-16 and met her husband Eli Buzaglo. With credits such as being a 5th place finalist in the Star Is Born, the Israeli version of American Idol, and her debut album premiering soon, Alisa Sharp is one to watch as a musician, star and performer.
SO FAR, WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST ACHIEVEMENT OF 2012: So far, the greatest achievement of 2012 would be the 300,000 views my music video "Happy" received in three months!
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LISA JAEGGI Interview by JAMALL OLUOKUN All images by SHERVIN LAINEZ
ALIAS: Lisa Jaeggi ZIPCODE: Brooklyn, NY MUSICAL STYLE: Soulful Acoustic Indie Pop FAVORITE CARTOON: Batman WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD TRUCK: Taim FAVORITE DESIGNER OR INDIE CLOTHING BRAND? Oh geez, it changes every season. But I consistently love Jean Paul Gaultier and Mara Hoffman. WHAT IS YOUR MOST EMBARRASSING MOMENT AS A MUSICAL ARTIST: There was one time I was about to play a show but I really had to pee. The ladies room was occupied so in an effort to save time I went into the men’s room. I went into the stall but it was one of those bathrooms with a urinal also. And so, of course, a dude walks in to use it while I’m in the stall. I stood in there forever waiting for him to take the world’s longest piss. I finally made it to the stage and played my set. But I spent the whole time wondering which guy in the audience had thwarted my speedy bathroom plans. SO FAR, WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST ACHIEVEMENT OF 2012: I was pretty stoked to be on Backyard Bill’s blog. He is such an awesome dude and an amazing photographer.
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PAPERCUT KUDOS: It may not be the most glamorous musical genre, but the melodies of Acoustic Indie Pop are some of the most sonically satisfying. For practicing artists however, the genre doesn’t afford as many distractions or places to hide within the frequencies. Auto tune won’t save you if you can’t sing. Synthesizers won’t suppress the fact that your lyrical content is elementary. And no amount of marketing can trick listeners into thinking that you have a good song. In short, “Homie don’t play that.” It’s for this reason that artists like Lisa Jaeggi are incredibly impressive. Currently residing in Brooklyn, NY, the creative borough of choice for many an artist, her music emits a soft, yet powerful emotional energy that is hard not to like. It draws you in and focuses you on what she is saying. It all starts with the vocals, which are amazing, and even more so when you realize that for the most part she sparingly makes use of doubles or harmonies. Her voice is the anchor for all of her music, it’s front and center, and it’s quite lovely. Then throw in some sweet acoustic guitar melodies (of which she plays), progressively well-placed percussion, smart songwriting, and you have the perfect replay-button-pressing inducing cocktail. Drink up!
WORDSMITH Interview by DANIELLE SIPPLE All images by TREY PALMISANO
ALIAS: Wordsmith ZIPCODE: Baltimore, MD MUSICAL STYLE: Hip Hop / Rap FAVORITE CEREAL: Captain Crunch FAVORITE CARTOON: Phineas & Ferb WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD TRUCK: Hands down the ice cream truck will always be the best. FAVORITE DESIGNER OR INDIE CLOTHING BRAND? Pedx Clothing WHAT IS YOUR MOST EMBARRASSING MOMENT AS A MUSICAL ARTIST: I use a chair sometimes to signify a car in one of my songs and during one show my cousin pulled the chair from underneath me as I went to sit down and I landed flat on my back. I kept spitting though and never lost a beat! SO FAR, WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST ACHIEVEMENT OF 2012: My album King Noah is available on Pandora Radio
PAPERCUT KUDOS: The only way to survive in the vast sea of awful lyricists and self-defined rappers is summarized by one word: evolution. Evolution of the word, evolution of the beat, evolution of the business and evolution of creativity. Enter Wordsmith, Baltimore MD emcee, who changes the game of music, on his time, with his pace, in his style. With all the makings of a musical auteur, Wordsmith spits a range of emotions, all tinged with bit of Baltimore edge. Having at this game for years, Wordsmith is far from a newbie when it comes to making lasting moves as a rapper. He’s a true artist that is recognized for his talent and hard work. He spent years putting the blood, sweat and tears into his production which has finally paid off in the release of his full length album King Noah. Dedicated to his son Noah, this album captures parts of his life articulated like anecdotes of worthy advice for his beloved boy. Lyrically, he captures the sweet and bitter in the same stanza, creating an accessible persona that is welcomed. In addition to pushing forth with music production, Wordsmith has busied himself with other passion projects within the industry. Running the ropes of his own label NU Revolution Entertainment and curating independent streaming-audio station Revolt Radio has kept him excessively busy, all fueled by a forward-thinking business mind. King Noah was released through NU Revolution Entertainment and with little doubt that it will not be the last piece to pass through the LLC. What other rappers only dream about, Wordsmith is paving for himself. He is laying each heavy brick slowly and deliberately to create a lyrical path of success aimed at the longevity of a bright career.
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THE PIMPS Interview by DANIELLE SIPPLE
ALIAS: The Pimps ZIP CODE: Rockford, IL MUSICAL STYLE: Rock FAVORITE CEREAL: Frosted Flakes, they're very okay. FAVORITE CARTOON: Venture Brothers FAVORITE FOOD TRUCK: Anything when drunk, except seafood. FAVORITE CLOTHING BRAND: Levis Strauss & Co SO FAR, WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST ACHIEVEMENT 2012: Getting featured in Papercut Magazine! PAPERCUT KUDOS: It’s not a shock that deep in the roots of the Midwest grows a seed of unrest, punk rock and crassness that rivals most adolescent suburban teens. Mix in sources of
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unlimited beer and facial hair taboos, this seed sprouted The Pimps, a group that melds equal parts of metal, rock, and “goodness-what-are-they-playing”. Growling from here to the moon, these boys deliver music that sets the stage for your untimely death choreographed from a comedian’s chair. The Pimps have a sense of humor which permeates throughout their entire catalog, which is quite impressive at nine independent releases. This five-piece of dapper gentlemen produces music that glorifies the imperfections of the human existence, all while keeping the cool of a masked villain riding into the sunset on his motorcycle. With driving bass lines and guitar riffs that roll down your throat like the purr of a well-oiled engine, The Pimps perfected their brand of rock since their beginnings dating back to the mid ‘90s. They had minor success when signed with a major label, shortly after their formation, but ditched the confines of normal industry standards for the tune of their own business beat. Since diverging on their own path, The Pimps have kept up an impressive local/state-wide touring schedule with endless amounts of instigation to go around. Whether it’s the unknown chemicals in Midwestern water sources or natural talent driven by a desire to break out of the comfort zone that traps most Americans, we don’t care. The Pimps captured us on our tiptoes wanting more, even if it makes us cringe a bit. Sometimes the best comes in the crassiest of rock ‘n’ roll packages.
ZE! Interview by TORIA MUNOZ All images by GUILLAUME KAYACAN
ALIAS: ZE! ZIPCODE: Kuala Lumpur MUSICAL STYLE: E.D.M. FAVORITE CEREAL: Cheerios! FAVORITE SUPERHERO AND DREAM SUPERPOWER: Ironman, Robert Downey Jr is yummy. I’d like the power to make time go slower or multiply myself so I can get more things done. GIVE YOURSELF A TAG LINE: ”I’m so fucking glam, I piss glitter.” WHAT IS YOUR MOST EMBARRASSING MOMENT AS A MUSICAL ARTIST: Hmmm. Maybe when I got my verses wrong when trying to rap on live radio? I dunno, I’m able to just laugh myself off.
SO FAR, WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST ACHIEVEMENT OF 2012: I was performing at a gig in the South of France with Joachim Garraud singing our new single “I’m Invaded” and the crowd of thousands went wild. Watching the guards trying to control the kids from breaking the barriers was just mind blowing! PAPERCUT KUDOS: What does a pocket full of glitter, dance wear and fun have all in common? Introducing: the bold, beautiful and superglam electro-pop diva ZE!. Hailing from Malaysia, ZE! stands out for sure! This colorful lady released her newest album I Am Glam on her own label Catapult Creative. Influenced from Yelle, Peaches and Lady Gaga, one can definitely still hear the signature Ze-ness that she puts into her music. Last year was huge for her as she performed at SXSW, Quicksilver Pro NY/France, LA Weekly and more! Her unique style can be attributed to her own passion for fashion and running OSIXNINE, her clothing company, with her sister. She’s already received a lot of press but that doesn’t stop ZE! from rocking out and remaining humble while doing it. With tracks ranging from light-glam pop to remixes available online, ZE! does an amazing job visually conveying how much character is in her music, lyrics and existence. Recently receiving the VIMA Best Music Video of the Year for “In The House” (2012), this glamazon is ready to take over the music world with glitter and a free spirit.
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CASEY Interview by JAMALL OLUOKUN All images by DEXTER COHEN & CHRISTOFER SCHAEFER
ALIAS: Casey ZIP CODE: Chesapeake, VA MUSICAL STYLE: R&B, Soul FAVORITE CEREAL: Raisin Bran FAVORITE CARTOON: ThunderCats FAVORITE FOOD TRUCK: The Atlanta Food Truck FAVORITE FASHION DESIGNER: Rodney P. Hunt WHAT IS YOUR MOST EMBARRASSING MOMENT AS A MUSICAL ARTIST: No embarrassing moments as of yet...fingers crossed! SO FAR, WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST ACHIEVEMENT 2012: May 2012- BET Music Matters and Feb 2012 - featured on MTV
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PAPERCUT KUDOS: Remember the days when artists like Brandy, Aaliyah and Mariah Carey ruled the billboard charts and it seemed like everyone flocked to the sounds R&B? Alas, those days are long gone. The musical landscape has changed and the new kid on the block is E.D.M. There isn’t a popular R&B artist today that hasn’t transitioned from R&B to Techno Pop. Usher, Chris Brown and Rihanna come to mind. And it’s not just R&B artists either. Hip Hop acts like Nicki Minaj, Flo Rida and Pitt Bull have purchased their boarding passes as well. While it may sound like the fate of R&B hangs in the balance, rising artists like Casey have made it their mission to breathe some new life into the genre. Singing from an early age (like most R&B starlets in training), Casey is attempting to re-inject musicality back into R&B. In her newest single “Prisoner”, listeners are treated to, get this, live instrumentation! Horns, bass and rocking drum fills provide a refreshing backdrop for Casey’s Hip Hop-inspired vocals. The lyrical content isn’t lacking either as the song chronicles the despair of being trapped in an abusive relationship. The end result is a funky, lyrically engaging and refreshing R&B track that stands out in today’s pop-laced R&B music scene. If artists like Casey can continue to draw on the fundamental musical foundation of R&B while keeping it modern with Hip Hop-laced flourishes, then the genre has a fighting chance.
AUTOMATIK EDEN Interview by DANIELLE SIPPLE All images by CHRISTOPHER JELLEY & PASCAL PAYANT
ALIAS: Automatik Eden FAVORITE CEREAL: A friend went on a no-carb diet and gave us about a dozen boxes of corn flakes he wasn’t going to eat. So, anything but cornflakes. FAVORITE CARTOON: Bugs Bunny, Jem and the Holograms FAVORITE SUPERHERO: The Arch Villain, Mr. Jelley, who fights justice with fashion. All superheroes are at his mercy, because as soon as they try to do something good, he berates them on their horrible fashion and mentally destroys them. “You’re wearing tights and a cape to this?!” Mr. Jelley is one of our stylists. We want to be his fashionable henchpeople. GIVE YOURSELF A TAGLINE: We’re from California, we’re weird, we’re awake. FAVORITE DESIGNER OR INDIE CLOTHING BRAND: Christopher Jelley and DeAnn Dallas. WHAT IS YOUR MOST EMBARRASSING MOMENT AS A MUSICAL GROUP: We showed up to an out-of-town bar gig expecting the place to be packed, but we found out that a regular bar customer had committed suicide, and most people were at his memorial service. It took Cela all of setup to remember that she was wearing the most inappropriate T-shirt possible that said, “Get Killed, Get Noticed”. She ended up wearing a merch shirt onstage, playing to 10 or so people who were not amused by the initial impression she made.
We felt terrible about it. SO FAR, WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST ACHIEVEMENT 2012: Sean Beavan (NIN, Marilyn Manson, A Perfect Circle, 8MM) has signed on to be the Executive Producer of our first full-length album! We are excited beyond belief! PAPERCUT KUDOS: The easiest way to get carried into the winds of far off lands is through the notes of a well-composed song. Ethereal vocals mixed with just the right seasoning of emotional rhythms can cast even the hardest of days into a daydream. Complexity of composition can aid in creating this energy but the real ingredients are the musicians themselves and their drive to create. LA-based duo Automatik Eden spin webs of alternative stylized music that steals beautifully from the heart strings and pilots you into a sea of wonder. Splitting the task of creating Automatik Eden’s unique sound, Cela Scott and David Crocco both add their own personal vocal styles to each song. Scott captures the essence and mystery of PJ Harvey while Crocco emits the raw range of Jack White mixed with the bravado of Chris Isaak. Each of these artists had successful careers in their respective fields, Scott in theatre/film and Crocco in music post-production, all which set the stage for the birth of Automatik Eden. Like a sweeping grand gesture, Automatik Eden reinvents the idea of alternative music with their spin on the idea that the genre can bend at will. Digging deep into roots grounded in cinematic fantasy, their music reads like a soundtrack to the movie you are living in at the exact moment you are listening to it. With such ease, Scott and Crocco mastered their own version of a time machine, sending us all back into memories that are vivid, raw and full of desire. Automatik Eden is gulping the magic that makes music mysterious. Finally.
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A DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH: HEIDI GARDNER
FINDING BEAUTY IN THE BEASTLY, JEWELRY DESIGNER HEIDI GARDNER EXPLAINS HER INSPIRATIONS. Interview by JESSICA YOUNG All images copyright KENNY LI
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With themes of morbidity and macabre, rising NYC designer Heidi Gardner’s jewelry leaves a darkly lasting impression especially when displayed on the likes of animal organs, bloody massacres and kill scenes (NYFW F/W 2012 presentation). Gardner certainly shocked the senses out of editors and buyers alike with her penchant for gore and strikingly juxtaposed personal appearance: blond, petite and poised. With a worldview that extracts beauty from death and the lurid, Heidi reveals how she’s morphed from a classically-trained ballerina to purveyor of pieces that shine in their subversive aesthetic. WHAT FIRST INSTIGATED YOU TO EXPRESS YOUR CREATIVITY VIA A JEWELRY LINE? Jewelry design actually found me! I was helping curate a friend’s photography show and she invited a jewelry designer to come and sell his wares. His designs reminded me of my own artwork and in that moment I knew that jewelry would be the best way for me to express my inner world to the outside world. I’ve always loved art while being a prolific painter and drawer but never considered jewelry as an art form. Of course, now I consider jewelry as the highest form of art and expression because you don’t hang it on a wall, you wear it! WHO/WHAT ARE YOUR MAJOR INSPIRATIONS? I’ve always been inspired by naked skeletal structures of animals and humans. I also look to past warriors and strong women and men to find inspiration. HOW HAS YOUR LIFE EXPERIENCES IMPACTED YOUR CREATIVITY AND AESTHETIC? To me, jewelry design is the medium to express the dark experiences I’ve been through. I’ve learned to be prepared for anything. This has heavily influenced my design aesthetic because I want people to feel a sense of strength and confidence to take on the world and all situations when they wear my pieces. IN YOUR ARTIST STATEMENT, IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU’VE CREATED “ANOTHER WORLD” FOR YOURSELF. ANY SENSE OF ESCAPISM AND WHAT ARE YOU ESCAPING? Absolutely. I see art as an escape from reality, which is why I’ve gone from ballerina to actor to painter to jewelry designer. This world can be harsh and frightening at times and can make one feel alone. My art and designs give me purpose and a voice. I’m encouraged by the idea that my designs can do the same for others, bringing them into my sphere of existence where art and expression are ranked more highly than politics and society’s rules. My family is heavily into politics and I grew up in very conservative surroundings, always feeling like an outsider with my wild views and desires. I saw so much beauty in the world
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where at times they saw only a need for restraint and propriety. AS YOU MENTION THAT YOUR ARTISTIC PROCLIVITIES WERE REPRESSED AND SUFFOCATED DURING CHILDHOOD CITING THAT THE OVERT CONSERVATISM LED YOU TO EMBARK ON YOUR CREATIVE JOURNEY; CURRENTLY, DO YOU EXPERIENCE ANY BACKLASH FROM THE FORMER CHILDHOOD FORCES ABOUT THIS CHOICE IN LIFE AND WHAT YOUR CREATIONS REPRESENT? Now I understand that they simply did not have their minds opened to a different worldview. Through the passion I put into my designs and my career, my family and friends have learned to respect my unique proclivities and odd nature. They have a better understanding that expression comes in many forms and that it’s impossible to put someone into any one box. WHAT LED YOU TO BREAK FREE AND PURSUE YOUR CREATIVE ENDEAVORS UNFETTERED? I had a realization that creativity can only be honestly expressed when liberated from the chains of society’s 28
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expectations. Through that awareness I was able to take my inner world and give form to my odd inclinations and fancies. Now, people have really started to appreciate me and my somewhat bizarre nature. BOTH YOUR CREATURE COUTURE AND SPINALITY COLLECTIONS HAVE OVERRIDING THEMES OF MACABRE, DEATH AND DARKNESS WHICH IS SOMEWHAT OF A STARK CONTRAST TO HOW YOU “APPEAR” AS A PERSON AND YOUR BALLERINA BACKGROUND. ARE PEOPLE SURPRISED BY THIS DICHOTOMY? HOW DO YOU MANAGE REACTIONS (IF YOU HAVE TO MANAGE REACTIONS)? Yes, people are always surprised by my appearance. And find it to be quite amusing. I also find it amusing that everyone thinks my designs are so dark. I suppose that’s because of the way I view the world and how much beauty and light I perceive where others see darkness. For those confused by this, I ask them, “When you walk into a museum, do you see one large tomb or do you see a chance to educate yourself and immerse yourself in the beauty the world offers you in the form of death?” How else would we educate ourselves about history, nature, anatomy or medicine if not through death?
I’M FASCINATED BY HOW YOUR BACKGROUND COMBINED WITH YOUR INNER PERSON HAS LED YOU DOWN SUCH AN INTERESTING CREATIVE PATH. FROM WHAT I GATHER, IT’S ALSO A TESTAMENT TO STAYING TRUE TO WHO YOU ARE. AGREE OR DISAGREE? ANY WORDS OF WISDOM OR PHILOSOPHICAL PEARLS YOU’D LIKE IMPART ON READERS? Yes, I truly couldn’t agree more with staying true to yourself. There have been so many external pressures in my life to conform to what other’s ideas of normal are. And there were times where I believed others to be right; that my own beliefs and worldviews were “off” or “misguided”. However, I was miserable. Absolutely miserable and it wasn’t until I stopped caring about what others think that I found my calling as a jewelry designer and that I also found true happiness. You can’t be happy whilst trying to conform to others and their ideas of normalcy. There is NO such thing as NORMAL. And if there were, I would shudder to be called it. Life is so much more beautiful and the world so much more receptive to your desires when you are being true to yourself. WHO DO YOU IMAGINE TO BE THE QUINTESSENTIAL WOMAN OR MAN FOR HEIDI GARDNER JEWELRY? Anyone with a desire to stand out from the crowd: man, woman, elder, youngster, hipster, musician, artist or debutante. My designs are forms of wearable art and are therefore meant to provoke conversation and intrigue. My designs are definitely not for the wallflowers. FOR HEIDI GARDNER JEWELRY, WHAT CAN WE LOOK FORWARD TO THIS UPCOMING SEASON? I can’t wait to show everyone what I have planned. I’m really digging into my love of ancient weaponry this season. The line is called Amour d’Armour. I’m taking my first line Creature Couture’s strong aesthetic and making this line quite literally about protecting and defending oneself. It’s a bit more rock 'n' roll meets savage weaponry.
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SHE'S ELECTRIC Photography by JENNY BROUGH @ JENNYBROUGH.CO.UK Styling by SIOUXSIE @ SIOUXSIESTYLIST.COM Hair by HERMAN HO @ HERMANHO.COM USING L’OREAL PROFESSIONNEL Makeup by MICHELLE WEBB @ MICHELLEWEBB.COM USING NARS Model GANA @ PROFILE MODEL MANAGEMENT Retouching by MONICA CHAMORRO Styling Assistants DAISY BUNYAN AND DAWNN LEE MITCHELL Makeup Assistant XISCA HEBA
THIS SPREAD Silk print dress with pleated skirt by JASPER GARVIDA Metal beaded collar by ALICE MENTER Leather corset belt by UNA BURKE Wrap leather cuffs in tan and navy blue by FABEL
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OPPOSITE Bottle green fringe jacket by JENNIFER MORRIS Electric blue fringe cape by ALICE MENTER Navy silk side panel shorts by NEGARIN Tan ankle boots by LARA BOHINC THIS PAGE Gold beaded metal collar worn around the face by足ALICE MENTER Box front tartan jacket by CARRIE NEILSEN Dark green front pleat shorts by PAUL AND JOE SISTER
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OPPOSITE Leather fringe jumper by LEUTTON POSTLE Gold onyx and gold agate sun and moon rings by LARA BOHINC Trousers by NEGARIN Gold rope neck piece by STYLIST'S OWN THIS PAGE Orange and yellow fringe t-shirt and jacket by JENNIFER MORRIS Crystal necklace by ASTRID & MIYU
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THIS PAGE Gold tassel earrings by LARA BOHNIC Pressed apples print scarf (worn as belt) by LARA BOHNIC Purple tassel necklace by JENNIFER MORRIS Black and navy insect print dress with collar by KBRAT OPPOSITE Brown embroidered bird shirt by SPIJKERS EN SPIKJKERS Orange pendant and chain necklace by AYALA BAR Mustard silk pattern shorts by NEGARIN Tan boots by LARA BOHNIC
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OPPOSITE Brown embroidered bird shirt by SPIJKERS EN SPIKJKERS Orange pendant and chain necklace by AYALA BAR Mustard silk pattern shorts by NEGARIN Tan boots by LARA BOHNIC THIS PAGE Orange and blue splash print jacket and trousers by ZEYNEP TOSUN Leather fringe filigree necklace by UNA BURKE Black onyx sun and moon ring by LARA BOHINC Leather weave neckpieces worn as belt by STYLIST'S OWN Gold snake skin platforms by LARA BOHINC
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31 BITS
EMPOWERING WOMEN TO RISE AGAINST POVERTY Written by HAYLEY MAYBURY It’s not everyday that you come across someone or something that truly inspires you. I was pleasantly surprised when I was directed to check out one of our July cover designers 31 Bits’ website and found something that was not only inspiring, but empowering! 31 Bits is a social-minded company that sells gorgeous jewelry made out of recycled paper by women in Uganda. After browsing through their entire website, not only did I fall in love with every piece of jewelry but I was so touched by all of the amazing women who created them that I knew I needed to share their story with all of you! Find out about how founder Kallie Dovel and her team help make a difference in the life of many Ugandan women in my interview with 31 Bits team member Alli Swanson. 40
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WHAT MADE KALLIE TRAVEL TO UGANDA IN 2007? Kallie traveled to Uganda to spend the summer volunteering at an orphanage and another non-profit organization. She ended up in the small town of Gulu, where she met ladies that were making the paper-bead jewelry. She spent the majority of her time in Uganda with these women; learning their stories, their dreams for the future and how they create this amazing product. She came back from her trip with boxes of necklaces and bracelets to sell to anyone and everyone. As soon as the rest of us girls saw the jewelry and heard about the ladies that made them, we were hooked. And 31 Bits was born! HOW DID THE NAME 31 BITS ORIGINATE? The 31 comes from the Bible. Proverbs 31 talks about a woman providing for her family, and how beautiful and virtuous she is. Bits stands for “bits” of paper. 31 BITS IS SUCH A GREAT ORGANIZATION, TELL ME ABOUT THE PROCESS OF PUTTING 31 BITS TOGETHER. WHAT WAS YOUR STRATEGY? We really didn’t have a strategy. When we started in 2008, four of us still had one more year of college. Kallie graduated a year before and moved to Uganda to work with our first six designers while the rest of us finished up school
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and sold the jewelry wherever we could: craft fairs, school events, house parties, ANYTHING. A couple months later, Reef, the sandal company, approached us! They saw our jewelry and heard our story and wanted to create a special sandal with the beads. We couldn’t believe it! We met the team at Reef and they placed an order for thousands of strands of beads, and that’s really what catapulted 31 Bits. We hired more ladies in Uganda, created a website, began selling in a couple stores and things began to grow organically. We started with six ladies and within four years our family has grown to 110 designers in Uganda! HOW DID YOU DEVELOP THE PROGRAM OVER IN UGANDA AND HOW HAS IT BENEFITED THE WOMEN THERE? Our programs developed slowly. We spent time living with our ladies, learning their culture and observing the way other non-profits and organizations have stepped in to help. A couple of us were Anthropology majors in college, so we sought a lot of advice from our professors and mentors. We are so excited about our programs in Uganda, and the impact it has on our ladies! In our model of development, we take a holistic approach, caring for every part of a person’s life. Each of our designers makes a sustainable monthly income enabling her to provide for her family. Additionally, our ladies take finance classes, English lessons, business
training, health education, mentorships and so much more! Our first ten ladies will graduate from 31 Bits this January and start small businesses of their own! YOUR PROGRAM OFFERS A LOT OF GREAT EDUCATIONAL EXPERIENCE FOR THE WOMEN INVOLVED. IT MUST BE SO INSPIRING TO SEE HOW FAR THEY HAVE COME AT THE END OF THE FOUR YEARS! WHAT DO MOST OF THE WOMEN END UP DOING AT THE END OF THE PROGRAM? It’s been so rewarding to see our ladies dream about their future. Some of them have plans to work together, whether it’s starting a tailoring business, buying land to farm or opening a hair salon. One of our ladies, “Mamma” Helen, has started a piggery—in which she raises pigs and then sells them in the local markets. THE JEWELRY THAT THESE WOMEN MAKE ARE SIMPLY AMAZING AND THE FACT THAT THE BEADS ARE MADE FROM RECYCLED PAPER IS EVEN MORE AMAZING! IS THERE A STORY BEHIND THIS CRAFT? Isn’t it cool?! Paper-bead jewelry is something that women in Africa have been making for years. Chances are if someone has traveled to Africa, they have seen it sold at local markets and tourist spots. We saw the potential to take this craft further—higher quality, evolving styles and youthful branding.
I LOVE THAT YOU HAVE EACH DESIGNER’S PICTURE AND STORY UP ON YOUR WEBSITE, IT IS TRULY INSPIRING! HOW DO THE WOMEN IN UGANDA GO ABOUT GETTING INTO THE 31 BITS PROGRAM? We have an application process and we try to work with the most vulnerable. The interview process takes place partly at our compound and at the ladies’ home. A few of our women come from other organizations that can no longer support them. SINCE YOU STARTED 31 BITS WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST ACCOMPLISHMENT? Wow, that’s hard! I think being able to hire 110 women and see 10 of them start their own businesses in Uganda has been the biggest accomplishment. We never dreamed that it would grow to this size... and to see our programs working and our ladies thriving! Their lives have completely changed and we feel SO blessed to be a part of it! WHAT ARE YOUR FUTURE PLANS FOR 31 BITS? DO YOU SEE YOURSELVES STARTING PROGRAMS LIKE THIS IN OTHER COUNTRIES? Good question! We would LOVE to expand to another part of the world, and are always researching and dreaming up what that could look like. We’ll see what opportunities come our way! As of right now, our focus is on Uganda.
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MUSIC TECH
THE HOTTEST TECH DEVELOPMENTS IN MUSIC Written by DANIELLE SIPPLE
Our lives and our music has gone entirely moblie. We take our phones, our computers, our tablets wherever we go, which allows for complete access to everything all the time. We have the Internet, all the world's knowledge at our fingertips. When it comes to music, technology has some extremely appealing surprises. Whether it is streaming audio though personalized algorithms or music-based crowdsourced promotion or even a hip-hop Wikipedia, the game of music has gone to the robot.
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WHAT WAS THAT SONG? - SOUNDHOUND Back when smartphones first came on the market, the mobile application Shazam allowed users to identify new music by just a few seconds of audio. We were no longer left wondering what songs were; the ones playing on the radio and on the speakers of our local clothing store. Shazam was an impressive first effort of its kind but now there is a more in depth service that provides a greater music listening experience, SoundHound. This application is built upon the detection options that Shazam provided, audio search, and added lyric and voice search. SoundHound is a combination of music recognition application, streaming music player and in-application connection to purchasing music. It gets better; SoundHound is compatible on all your handheld devices. WHO IS THAT BAND? - WE AER HUNTED HTTP://WEAREHUNTED.COM/A/#/EMERGING/ Tastemakers are to be followed but sometimes it is hard to find your own. During these desperate times, one can resort to searching We Are Hunted to find the best of the most obscure in today's music. This site is simple in its premise and delightfully visual. Tracks can be listened individually or curated into playlists. We Are Hunted selects its artists from a combination of social media, blogs, message boards, and general online sentiment, very similar to Hypemachine in its premise. My favorite option within this application is the "Related Artists" section within each artist's profile. What a fantastic way to find your own taste.
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WHAT WAS THAT LYRIC? - RAPGENIUS HTTP://RAPGENIUS.COM/ Wikipedia keeps us up all night with its incessant need to teach us everything about everything. The one thing they fail to serve us is the true understanding of rap lyrics. Cue RapGenius as the first crowdsourced hip-hop Wikipedia. Starting off small, this application has strong aspirations for a mobile application and user profiles. Imagine having the ability to upload lyrics on the go or update your profile with your favorite songs and artists, with notifications set up when new lyrics are added for your favorites. RapGenius is the light at the end of the tunnel, at least one with all the best MCs. WHAT'S THE BEST RADIO? - IHEARTRADIO Streaming radio is nothing new to our Internet senses. Radio has transcended the airwaves into a more customizable format, one that is catered to our ears. From the mainstreaming of Pandora to the open API but lacking in content Spotify, fans of online radio were in need of a new application. In comes iHeartRadio with all the features, bells and whistles. From personalized algorithms, to curated tastemakers, even to our favorite traditional radio stations, iHeartRadio is a great alternative to all those other radio applications. Major plus: iHeartRadio is commercial-free.
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HOW CAN I FIND THAT REALLY RARE SONG/ALBUM/ ARTIST/BAND/DEMO? - TOMAHAWK For the courageous music listeners out in the digital realm, the newest tool to capture music from virtually anywhere is the delightful new application called Tomahawk. Using spider-like crawls across many different music sources, Tomahawk redesigns the way that we listen to music online. The basic premise is that the listener should only care about the music playing and not necessarily where it comes from, so that full playlist may be sourced from many different places. Application plug-ins allow Tomahawk to connect with prominent music sources like YouTube, Soundcloud and Last.fm, to create extremely personalized playlists, complete with the best-sourced recordings. WHERE CAN I SEE THEM PERFORM? JAMPLIFYHTTP://JAMPLIFY.COM/ Ever since Kickstarter came onto the Internet scene, the idea of crowdsourced funding has infiltrated every band. Production albums and whole tours are sourced by way of the fans themselves. Jamplify takes the structure of Kickstarter and applies it to one of the most basic elements of the music industry: promotion. Artists create campaigns with incentives for top promoters which elevates the idea of street teams to new levels. The artists themselves create the campaigns, anywhere from album to tour promotions. The promotion structure stems out to how much work the volunteer promoters do to help out the band and, in turn, get special rewards like signed posters, music, and tickets. Jamplify is the new way that artists turn fans into incentive-based volunteers.
MUSIC WILL ALWAYS EVOLVE WITH MODERN TIMES, GENRES FUSING WITH GENRES AND MUSICIANS COLLABORATING TO NEW HEIGHTS. WHEN TECHNOLOGY IS ADDED INTO THE MIX, THE PLAYING FIELD IN THE LAND OF AUDIO REARRANGES ITS RULES, WITH A FUTURISTIC TWIST. MUSIC HAS GONE BEYOND A SINGLE EXPERIENCE WITH AN AUDIO PLAYER AND NOW EXTENDS TO A FAR GREATER AUDIENCE, SOMETIMES JUST CONNECTED WITH SOME SIMPLE WIRES. WITH MOBILE TECHNOLOGY INCREASING DAY-BY-DAY AND THE INTERNET EXPANDING IN A FLUX OF USER-VGENERATED KNOWLEDGE, MUSIC HAS A FUTURE BRIGHTER THAN ITS PAST COULD EVER SHINE.
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DJ MARIE Photography by DARREN BLACK Styling by MICHAEL TEMPRANO Hair by FRANCO VALLELONGA @ ERA MANAGEMENT Makeup by MARIA ASADI @ ERA MANAGEMENT Models DJ MARIE CLAIRE @ SELECT MODEL MANAGEMENT Special thanks to JALOUSE CLUB @ JALOUSE.CO.UK
OPPOSITE Dress by ADA ZANDITION Necklace by ADA ZANDITION
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THIS SPREAD Dress by ADA ZANDITON All jewerly by ADA ZANDITON Shoes by STYLIST'S OWN
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OPPOSITE Dress by BASHARATYANV Sunglasses by STYLIST'S OWN THIS PAGE Lace dress by BEAUTIFUL SOUL
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THIS SPREAD Dress by DAVID LONGSHAW
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THIS SPREAD Dress by ALICE PALMER Turban by STYLIST'S OWN
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CASEY DESMOND, UNPLUGGED. Interviewed by ALYSSA DAVIS Photography by TRACEY @ CCK PHOTOGRAPHY Hair and Makeup by JESSIE AMMONS Clothing by CASEY DESMOND Jewerly by ALYSSA DAVIS @ SKILER LOVE
I met Casey on a Sunday in August for an early morning photoshoot. As she arrived with makeup artist Jessie and various props in tow, I realized why this shoot would be fun: an everything-goes attitude. All makeup and bright hues aside, within the first five minutes the photographer notices Casey is a great model. “Sometimes you get girls that just stand there”, says Tracey’s photography assistant (CCK Photography), “But not Casey – she knows how to move in front of a camera.” And rightfully so – her sister is a photographer and used Casey as a model for her shoots growing up. So, when we asked her to balance backwards while leaning over a stool and stare directly into the sun (to get the right angle and shot, of course), let’s just say, she rocked it. You may recognize Casey Desmond as a former contestant on The Voice, but there’s a whole lot more to this eclectic artist than what was seen on TV. I had the chance to touch base with this up-andcoming star and get her take on her unique sense of fashion, genre of music and what it’s like to build a career as a singer in a tough industry. Here’s your exclusive sneak peek on what lives behind all the neon glamour and sparkles galore.
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PERSONAL STYLE, BOTH IN MUSIC AND FASHION, HAS A HUGE IMPACT ON THE WAY THE REST OF THE WORLD VIEWS YOU. HOW WOULD DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE? HAVE YOU EVER BEEN IN THE POSITION WHERE SOMEONE HAS TRIED TO CHANGE IT FOR THE SAKE OF SUCCESS IN THE MUSIC INDUSTRY? My personal style and my music walk hand-in-hand. I believe presentation and performance is just as important as the material I´m writing. When I was a teenager, I hid behind an instrument and hadn’t quite grown into my skin. It wasn´t until I walked away from the guitar and piano a bit, that I started to engage the audience more with stage presence. Spending more time acting on stage and animating the lyrics gave me the confidence I needed to explore theatrical costumes. It´s hard for me to describe my style but I have certain weaknesses. I’m obsessed with anything feathery, neon, Aztec-inspired or psychedelic. Luckily, a lot of those things have been in style for the last couple years. Spandex, Lycra® and sparkles are all I need to survive. I always have been a gaudy weirdo. Some artists, stylists and even friends influenced me positively, but none have ever really dared to ¨change¨ me. I´ve always marched to the beat of my own drum sticking with what I know best. As much as I´d like to be signed to a major label, I can’t dream of sacrificing the things that inspire me for fame. What´s the fun in that? WHO ARE A FEW OF YOUR ICONS? When it comes to music, David Bowie and Cyndi Lauper are two of my absolute favorites. They paved the way for fashiondriven musicians such as myself. I also love the amazing artist/business woman Lady Gaga. A couple of designers who yield a great influence on me growing up are Pam Hogg and Vivienne Westwood. They´re edgy, unique and wild… three of the best adjectives. 60
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HOW DID YOU GET INTO DESIGNING CLOTHES – DID YOU GO TO SCHOOL FOR FASHION DESIGN? I went to college for illustration but started to focus more on fashion illustration before dropping out to pursue my music career. After a few years of hibernation, my desire to design and create began to poke its way into my performances and overall aesthetic. It then became incredibly important to have a fresh outfit prepared for each new opportunity. This includes live shows, music videos, photo shoots and fashion shows, etc. WHICH DOMINATES YOUR CLOSET: VINTAGE, DIY OR DESIGNER? I am a zealot in the world of thrift shopping and rarevintage finds. Some of my earlier stage outfits were created from fabric much older than myself. I tend to grab the vibrant, exotic and strange in the fabric department and mix it with my love of sci-fi and glam (note: clothing from the shoot was designed by Casey’s brand OHDEERGOD). I LOVE THAT YOU CALL YOURSELF A CHILD OF THE “DIY GENERATION”. UPON ALL THE DIFFERENT HATS YOU WEAR, WHICH DO YOU FIND MOST CHALLENGING? Self promotion. I really don´t like talking about myself. Creativity and motivation is a breeze to me. I feel very driven to do what I do. However, when left to my own devices, I´m more inclined to be artistic and less inclined to schmooze about it. It´s weird because I´m very open and social. It gets easier every year because this aspect of my career is essential. When I was young, I was super hyperactive yet incredibly shy. I´ve had to challenge myself to look past the modesty and be adamant in the self-promotion areas. HAVE YOU MET ANY INSPIRATIONAL INDIVIDUALS ALONG THE WAY THAT HAVE HELPED SHAPE YOUR VIEW OF THE BIG PICTURE? Many! My parents, Kathy and Des, were very inspirational growing up. They´re both musician-artists, and my father created his own company which fed my family. Speaking of family, I´m lucky enough to have two younger siblings that are very artistic too! My sister Mary Lee Desmond of Red Hot Box studios is an amazing photographer and creative director. She happens to be in some up-and-coming bands in Boston as well! She’s taken a lot of my promotional photographs and helped direct some of my videos. I need to hand it to some of my other friends who really helped form me. Anthony J Resta and I worked together on some recordings and my views on production have been forever changed since then. He is partially to blame for my synth-gear hoarding problem. My hat is off to Karyadi Sutedja for amazing engineer work and for giving me so many useful tips in the studio. Also, my best-friend-bandmate-and-co-producer Taylor Barefoot is one of the most talented and genuine musicians I´ve ever met. We share a need to amass odd instruments and odd sound-making devices. Lastly, my co-writer Robert Ellis Orrall has been a fabulous influence. He wrote about half of my upcoming album with me as well as some other tunes. He is such a motivated and powerful force in the music industry. I definitely look up to him.
BEING AN ELECTRONIC-ORIENTED MUSICIAN, DO YOU SEE YOURSELF PLAYING AT ANY FESTIVALS IN THE FUTURE? Yes, any that will have me! Not only would it be incredible for my career but I´m a stinky hippy by nature and I´d feel right at home. JUMPSTARTING YOUR CAREER FROM THE GROUND UP IS TOUGH. WHAT HELPS YOU STAY MOTIVATED AND PROACTIVE IN THE PROCESS? My hyperactivity, naturally! Okay, only partially! Life is beautiful and my friends are so genuine. I feel lucky and make the best of every day I´m alive. I like to draw from the positive that surrounds me as well as the negative so my lyrics are honest to my audience. The lifestyle I lead is very inconsistent and guaranteed to surprise. One must focus on the good and stay true to their beliefs and desires! HAVE YOU MADE ANY CONNECTIONS FROM BEING ON THE VOICE? HAS YOUR APPEARANCE BOOSTED YOUR CAREER IN ANY PARTICULAR WAY? WHAT DO YOU TAKE AWAY FROM THE WHOLE EXPERIENCE? Well, The Voice was definitely a learning experience. Considering I never had been on a reality show before, I walked away with a greater confidence in my public speaking and high-pressure performances. The people I met were all amazing and unique. I still stay in contact with most of my cast. ALTHOUGH YOU’RE A NATIVE-BORN MASSACHUSETTS GIRL, DO YOU SEE YOURSELF EVER RE-LOCATING TO NEW YORK OR LOS ANGELES? LA is my dream. Still a dream. WHICH HAS BEEN YOUR FAVORITE VENUE TO PLAY THUS FAR? WHY? My favorite shows are usually the ones with the wildest crowds. The venue is irrelevant if everyone’s feeling the music and dancing their hearts out. That´s what I aim for anyway. WHAT’S SOMETHING THAT’S ON YOUR BUCKET LIST? Opening for or at least meeting David Bowie. THE MOST REWARDING ASPECT OF YOUR JOB… Doing what I love every day of my life… isn´t that what life´s about? SOME WORDS OF ADVICE FOR YOUNG MUSICIANS TRYING TO GET THEIR FOOT IN THE DOOR. Be YOU! Love yourself, love your life, don´t be afraid to try something new and don´t be afraid to fail. Work your ass off, but take time to be a kid and have fun. You can´t write a song about life if you haven´t lived it. It takes confidence, patience and drive. It helps when you surround yourself with supportive people and a creative community. ANY OTHER UPCOMING NEWS YOU WANT TO SHARE WITH YOUR FANS AND READERS? Stay tuned for my album release date for Déjà Vu!
ASIDE FROM YOUR OWN MUSIC, ARE THERE ANY ARTISTS YOU LOVE COVERING WHEN PERFORMING LIVE? I haven´t done many covers but I am working on a "Moonage Daydream" (David Bowie) cover. 61
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THE BLACK SOFT
THE NYC DUO PUTTING ART BACK INTO ARTIST Written by DANIELLE SIPPLE Lines are meant to be blurred. Distinct definitions of an art form, the very constricting boundaries of its essence, often itch to be manipulated into something greater. Many artists fail to realize this calling and fall victim to the outside structure that encourages one to stay within one’s own means. If you create fashion, you stay within fabric. If you create art, you stay within color. If you create music, you stay within sound. Once in a blue moon, a group of artists comes along to smash the strange imposed notion that art is contained to just one medium. The Black Soft go beyond the music they create, go between the art that visualizes their sound, and go further than the very fabric of their own fashionable style. The Black Soft creates a new definition of the auteur for the 21st century. 63
Fitting into the very creases of New York City, as if the city bleeds into their veins, The Black Soft transplants their creativity from the deep southwest of Arizona. With more serendipitous moments that can be counted, Chase Coughlin and Joey Topmiller met briefly in university but didn’t flesh out their true connection until they both moved independently to New York City. One momentous night was spent in Arizona, where the two of them painted for many hours to complete one piece. That single event was the last time they collaborated until reuniting in New York. Traveling across the country, they both set out with dreams of something big, as if the very spark of New York’s historically creative lineage could carry them alone. Outside of normal baggage, Chase carried a skill set in photography and Joey thrived in his knowledge of musical theatre. Both of them felt that greater opportunities were calling to them, but neither foresaw music in their future due to lack of formal training. When these two masterminds joined forces, the only thing they knew for certain was to put out honest art and serendipity took care of the rest. With the devotion of most blind-sighted optimists driven by forces unknown, these two artists worked days with the hopes of staying afloat in a city that demands bills to be paid and spent nights breaking open their creative minds. Both worked hours during the day at a restaurant only to let their creativity run wild when they got home. While others slept into the night, Chase and Joey would write, sing and make art as a way to escape into something greater. Their first album was magically created in the crevices of spare time they could find in their lives. Lyrics were written on napkins, verses were recorded on iPhones in the back of cabs and tracks were laid to production in the latest hours of the night. Stylistically, this forced their first set of songs to retain a certain sound, not out of natural inclination, but out of situations that restricted them. Like any great story, The Black Soft—a phrase derived from Joey’s large black Great Dane—was born in a small East Village apartment. Chase started writing poetry in a small notebook of his, when a particular piece stood out to him. Torn about his feelings for this piece, Chase handed it over to Joey who, without a notion of thought or a moment of practice, immediately sang the words as if they had always been that way. Shocked at the perfection of such aweinspiring creativity, the two of them recorded the song right away realizing that their path had unfolded right before their eyes. Within a week’s time, they wrote half the songs on their first album and the production process erupted. Without much thought to its origin, a band was born. The act of creating their art preceded the notion of why they were creating. Both of these talented young men view creativity in its true fluid nature. Chase and Joey had their “eureka moment” early on; other creative skills that may have been abandoned in order to give room for music did not, in fact, have to be discarded. If they wanted photography in their music, there was room; if they wanted painting in their music, there was room. If they needed to design a website, they learned the skill. If they needed to create animated opening credits, they did that as well as musicians. Everything originally deemed unnecessary was actually part of the creative process. Chase and Joey finally began to understand that for them being musicians went beyond just creating music, and into creating a whole experience. During the production of their first album, they founded their own record label. This simple move was an act of 64
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self preservation from the funnel that the music industry creates. Once an artist is engaged in their art, the industry starts instilling subtle directions of proper etiquette. Such boundaries can entertain the idea that a “he” should be turned into a “she” and sounds should be accessible on all fronts, especially the most profitable ones. They fervently wanted their music to be candid, with an honest connection directly from them to their audience. Compromising their artistic integrity was not on the chopping block for The Black Soft. This need of creative control drove Chase and Joey to create Terror of the Understood Records, which ironically they filed as an LLC. Chalked up as another serendipitous moment, this LLC allowed them to create an independent creative umbrella to which they house all their future endeavors under. The Black Soft broke another industry mold when they were picked up by a PR agency that dealt only within the fashion world. This move pushed their creative abilities to new lands, the land of style on demand. Omen PR granted them entry into a world that they only dreamed of venturing into, one that consisted of creating sounds to images that were categorized as film scores with the fashion world’s recent love affair with fashion film. Their first major project was a series of beautifully shot short films for Lars Andersson’s F/W collection. With giddy excitement, Joey and Chase both describe the experience of working on set, a collaborative effort where everyone brought their own little element to the table to create something special. This hive-mind mentality planted the seed in these boys’ heads that there isn’t a glass ceiling that couldn’t be shattered by someone’s tools, even if it wasn’t their own. Collaboration is the key to success and is the tool itself. Working on the Lars Andersson films inspired the idea of resurrecting a true collaborative artistic New York City community. They realized, while working on this professional and high-end set, that every single person brought their craft in their own way and learned from the next artist beside them. The amazing fertile ground of their city was not to be left to myths; the draw of creativity pulled them both here and they were tired of hearing about the awesome energy of old NYC. The city needs a revival, a movement of artists from different backgrounds that would incite the breakdown of compartmentalized creative isolation. Community is the solution and Chase and Joey were determined to create it piece by piece, friend by friend, artist by artist. Upon developing the notion of their second album, Chase and Joey expanded their collective mind past the process of their first album. TOTU POPEP was created in theory that all the songs on the album would be turned into music videos, a collective of short films. Laced like a labor of love, these three videos turned into an adventure of creative explosion that included all of Chase and Joey’s close friends. Fellow directors, photographers, actors and stylists came together to create art based on simple visions. The only direction given to this collective group of artists was straightforward: the videos had to be in black and white, contain no lip synching and have stylistic elements of German Expressionism. Within those constraints, three beautiful films came together and despite their individual productions stand together as a solid short film. TOTU POPEP premiered at the Tribeca Grand Hotel, in a curated night of style, music and collaborative art. Both Chase and Joey were nervous to unveil this very
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personal piece from The Black Soft’s arsenal, but to their delight it was well received by all their friends and guests. From their point of view, the best part of the night was the exchange of ideas between everyone at the event. The crowd was a perfect mix of artists from all different backgrounds, itching to be a part of something that blends the boundaries of art. A room of this temperature depicts the draw that The Black Soft surround themselves with, artists hungry to expand their craft and work with others that they can learn from. TOTU POPEP brought together some well known visionaries: directors Francisco Garcia, Evaan Kheraj and Tim Richardson; as well as stylists Yana Kamps, Luisa Rino and Nicola Formichetti. This was the boys second time working with Formichetti on a collaboration with their album TOTU POPEP. Chatting after a show, Formichetti casually mentioned his desire to do a music video with them. Expressing the moment as “flattered with a tinge of shock and distorted reality”, Chase and Joey shook off the gesture until Formichetti used “Lovesong Torturemix” for his MAC video project. The seed of collaboration follows these boys like the sticky pollen of springtime flowers. During the process of completing their TOTU POPEP film project, Chase and Joey were fervently working away on their third album, Dynasty. Unlike their first two albums, which were produced and released in a record amount of time, Dynasty carries a more mature sound that's fleshed out into modern orchestral movements. Both Chase and Joey expressed their interest in orchestral conducting mixed with rock-opera undertones; hence this third album is akin with their evolving vision. Dynasty is their effortless determination to move forward while buckled down in the studio, doing what they love to do. No milestone passed as a moment to rest so with each accomplished creative project the bar was set that much higher. It wasn’t enough to branch out in combining film, fashion and music to create visuals unseen by any of those communities independently, The Black Soft wanted more. With almost two years under their belt, both Chase and Joey quit their jobs and focused full time on the The Black
Soft. They threw themselves full-time into the music side of the fashion world, the artistic side of the drawing world and the visual side of the music world. Every day they have a different deadline, sometimes multiple ones, and still they manage to remain as a duo working effortlessly together. Chase and Joey, with as much time as they spend together, redefine the perception that the team is greater than the sum of its parts. Ironically, the two most common themes throughout the entire creation process for The Black Soft are fluidity and serendipity. Remaining open to the possibilities that occur can be some of the greatest learning experiences and Chase and Joey are professionals at flexing this muscle. Building an intentional community of artists that is eager to work towards cross-disciplinary art with each artist contributing their perfect professional ability is the greatest dream of The Black Soft’s vision. Under the misguided but completely appropriate accident of creating an LLC for their record label, Chase and Joey set the scene for having a company that this community could exist under while maintaining complete control of its production. These boys found their own personal heaven just by creating it, unintentionally. The Black Soft are new visionaries of the old New York City. They carry the essence of magic in their every movement without feeling the heaviness of stagnancy. They are the ones that keep themselves going and inspire the rest around them to maintain their pace. The Black Soft is the revolution that breaks the mold of what a contemporary artist does. Chase and Joey lead the example of how it all fits into an accessible structure that in its sturdy confidence can never crumble. The creative world could learn a few tips on resiliency from The Black Soft.
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OPPOSITE Dress by OXFAM Jacket by OXFAM Lycra top by SOOJIN LEE Watch by FOLLI FOLLIE Necklace by TOMTOM
HER MIX-A-LOT Photography by EUAN DANKS @ CLICKSANDCONTACTS.COM Styling by KRISHAN PARMAR @ KRISHANPARMAR.COM Hair by ELLIOT BSSILA @ DWMANAGEMENT.CO.UK Makeup by NAT VAN ZEE @ NAKEDARTIST.COM Model WILEY @ NEXT
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THIS PAGE Lucra top by SOOJIN LEE Jacket by FUNKTIONAL Denim jacket by BLINQ DENIM Bag by CONVERSE Shorts by CHARLIE MAY Top (around waist) by XENIA & OLYA OPPOSITE Top by AMBER SAKAI Jacket by ZDDZ Skirt by FAM IVROLL Watch by FOLLI FOLLIE
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THIS PAGE Dress by EUGENE LIN Hooded jacket by DANS LA VIE Jacket by BILL+MAR Necklace by NOIR Nike jacket by OXFAM Dress by UNIF T-shirt by EVA MORFIA Necklace by JANE BOWLER OPPOSITE Dress by MARINA QURESHI T-shirt by MARYME-JIMMYPAUL Gillet by IZZUE Cap by GODS PREY
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OPPOSITE T-shirt by FUNKTIONAL Leather dungarees by BILL+MAR Jacket by MONKII Denim jacket by BLINQ DENIM Watch by FOLLI FOLLIE OPPOSITE Dress by URBAN CODE Jacket by FAM IVROLL Necklaces by VANESSA MOONEY
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A UNIFIED VOICE MUSIC AND FASHION COME TOGETHER
Written by LINDSAY ZGONINA Claire Wilkinson images by REBECCA WARD Kink Ador images by ROBBIE QUINN Styling by LINDSAY ZGONINA Hair/Makeup by BRIAN ELLIOT @ SYNERGY HAIR SKIN BODY Model CLAIRE WILKINSON
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As both a fashion writer and a stylist, I cross paths with a lot of interesting and talented people including musicians like Claire Wilkinson, who I recently had the honor of working with. Wilkinson is a promising up-and-comer from Nashville who is in the early stages of building her career and called upon me to assist her in the style department. At only fifteen years old, Claire may be young but she’s not new to music. She began taking voice lessons at age seven and started song writing for about a year-and-ahalf. While she’s already mastered her signature sound, her music is anything but bubblegum-pop. As a singersongwriter, Wilkinson combines elements of ‘90s indiegirl rock reminiscent of Lilith Fair alums with a more modern-alternative flare, which she describes as “a blend of alternative and pop”. However, she says she doesn’t like to limit her creativity by tying herself down to one specific genre. She manages to capture a sense of femininity and emotion with a touch of turmoil to give her sound a tough outer-shell, making it fresh and edgy yet still relatable. It can be easy to forget that Wilkinson is still just a teenager, as her music and lyrics have an element of maturity and wisdom beyond her years. With a solid music foundation already in place, Wilkinson has now had to focus on defining her style. According to Claire, “…fashion is very important to the success of a musician in the way that it reinforces the same emotions and ideas as their music. It's like illustrating a book; it gives the reader a well-defined image of the main character.” It’s difficult for any artist to put together all the pieces when it comes to music and fashion, but imagine tackling that at only fifteen-years-old. Most teenagers are still searching for themselves and don’t have a clear point-ofview, changing their minds frequently on what they like and what they care about. But unlike most teenagers, Wilkinson definitely knows who she is and how she wants to be portrayed. With strong musical influences from the likes of Coldplay, Adele, U2 and Imogene Heap, the goal was to create a more polished version of Wilkinson’s personal style that would tie in her look and her sound allowing both to express the same message and emotion As a stylist, it is important for me to take many different factors into consideration when working with a musician like Wilkinson. Competition in the music industry is cutthroat and an artist who has the complete package is going to be a step ahead of their competitors when it comes to achieving success. That’s why it is so important to create a perfect marriage of fashion and music. Traditionally speaking, stylists are a relatively new 77
resource for musicians. Managers were the only source of guidance for a musician’s image before stylists became a prominent fixture in the music industry, but their vision was less artistic and more business-driven. Aside from that, musicians historically made their own choices when it came to fashion based on their judgment of what best expressed the emotion in their music. It was more of an organic relationship that grew from within. For example, why do so many musicians wear black? Perhaps it started with Johnny Cash’s “The Man in Black” who explained in his song that he wore black as a representation for the struggles of the average man. He didn’t wear color because color didn’t represent how he felt inside. Regardless of whether or not the credit can be given to Cash, black became a standard for expressing the inner turmoil of the tortured musician. However, over the years fashion and music have both expanded creatively to constitute so many different styles and genres that it has become a bit more complicated to express one’s self and create a connection with the audience than by just wearing black. Musicians are now looked upon for influence by their fans that relate to their music and also feel the need to express themselves by wearing similar styles. Thus, the stylist’s role has become one of great importance in creating not only a polished look for appearances, performances and promotion, but also an overall image that defines the artist and helps bridge the gap between artist and audience. When it came to helping Claire polish her style, there were a lot of factors to take into consideration. One of the most important was her age. I still want her to look like a teenager but at the same time appear mature enough to be taken seriously as an artist—not only by her fans but by music-industry professionals as well. Wilkinson has a distinct style to her music and we needed to capture all the elements of her sound in her look. She’s feminine but not a girly-girl, edgy but not unapproachable. She gravitates
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towards contrasting elements like “motorcycle jackets with floral dresses…combat boots with shorts”. We scoured a variety of stores to find pieces that felt unique to her style and that had character and personality. To create a unique look, you have to shop unique stores. While we hit up a couple of large-chain retailers, local Nashville boutiques like Designer Finds, Local Honey and Pre-to-Post Modern gave us the best selection of one-of-a-kind pieces for an upand-coming indie artist. Vintage dresses, dark denim, bold graphic prints, a little leather and the perfect “Chris Martin” jacket, allowed Wilkinson to achieve that harmonious mix of femininity and edginess through her clothing that she does so well with her music. With all the pieces now in place, Claire is ready to focus on the future and share her passion with the world. Wilkinson says, “I truly love music with everything I am. I honestly just want to find a way to successfully share my music with people. There is something so beautiful about exposing yourself to the world in your most raw and honest form, and for me that's my music.” Check out Wilkinson’s video for her original song “Wheel of Fortune”. Another artist who understands the importance of the total package when it comes to music and fashion is Sharon Koltick, lead bassist from the band Kink Ador, also based in Nashville. According to Koltick; You want everything to have unity of emotion. We try to look the way we sound, if that makes sense... we are electric, sensual, emotional, full of swagger and funk, so the sound dictates the look. High contrast, powerful saturated colors and strong lines match the energy of what we do. The tradition of rock and roll is black clothing—a lot of performers, no matter the genre, wear black clothing: symphonic musicians, jazz musicians, etc. Maybe there is a psychological need to have that deep rich color available as a canvas for listening. It allows the mind to wander and project meaning onto the experience, without being distracting.
Koltick describes Kink Ador as “Gwen Stefani meets Sting” and says she likes to think of them as “the first true rock and roll band with a female bassist at the front”. She says that what the band wears on stage is relative to their music and she likes to wear what she feels good performing in. For Koltick, that means leather jackets, fun dresses and bright, expressive accessories—items that, as she says, “have sensuality, and convey a bright, positive energy”. The guys, on the other hand, go their own way and stick to mostly tight jeans and T-shirts that allow them to move around on stage while performing. Koltick believes that while fashion can be a catalyst to the success of a band or artist, it is most important to focus on the sound first. Once an artist masters that and understands their point-of-view, it should be easy to express themselves through their style. It’s all about having a unified message and creating an entertaining visual and auditory experience for the audience. While the audience is there first and foremost to hear the music, capturing their visual attention as well is what really completes the show. Kink Ador is currently touring and upcoming shows include performances at Toronto’s Indie Music Week and the CMJ Music Marathon in New York, both held in October. Whether you believe that fashion influences music or music influences fashion, the truth is each relies on the other to amplify its message. As they say, “clothes don’t make the man”, and musicians will tell you that they don’t make the music. But they do make a statement—one that unites the two entities to create perfect harmony. And, yes, that pun was intended too. 79
GET ON DOWN
RECORD LABEL GET ON DOWN BRINGS BACK THE PHYSICAL IN A VIRTUAL MUSIC WORLD Written by LEE HERSHEY
In this ever-changing music landscape where many people consume music digitally, Get On Down, a Boston-based record label and online store, recognizes a backlash trend with those who want to feel connected with the physical products, especially with past records. Through elaborate and creative packaging, Get On Down showcases the music holistically, connecting fans with more than just sounds through liner notes, pictures, booklets, DVDs and bonus material. In this MP3 generation, having something tangible is more meaningful than a digital download and thumbnail for a cover. “Growing up---for me---I always loved looking at albums, you know, physically holding something and reading the liner notes while listening to the record or the album,” says George Adrinopoulos, creative consultant at Get On Down. “With new packaging presenting it in a new way, they might just want to get lost with it in the same way.” George Adrinopoulos explains what the label is about: “Get On Down pulls from past releases or things from our past that we feel are still relevant today and presents them in a modern context.” He adds, “People who originally liked certain music or certain songs or whatever it is from ten or twenty years ago---or even young kids today who never heard any of these albums---can still connect with it.” Adrinopolous cites box-sets, which anyone can find at an electronic or music store, and points out how Get On Down differs: “We feel for the music that we are putting out, whether it is hip hop or funk. It’s never been represented well, so we’re trying to fill that void. We’re celebrating music…with stellar packaging for the super-fan.” In a time when music sales, especially physical music sales are decreasing, Get On Down revives older music as record companies are seeking ways to monetize on their back-catalogue. Nonetheless, people and the economy are buying less into music as they did before. According to Nielsen SoundScan, the entertainment industry’s data information system that collects sales data from retailers, album sales have fallen each year for the last decade. In 2011, overall album sales increased, but physical album sales still slumped when compared to rising digital purchases. As a small start-up, the company has faced a lot of logistical and administrative challenges. The elaborate packaging takes a long time to develop, like the Ol’ Dirty Bastard wallet. The company pitches their ideas out to other record labels and companies to see what is possible and to get an idea of what people are interested in doing. The other record companies are not always willing to accept what Get On Down wants to do with the releases, but nonetheless they met major early successes. They received praise from NPR for a lot of their recent releases and accolades from many mainstream establishment media, like Pitchfork which recently gave them a ten out of ten for the GZA Liquid Swords release. Get On Down does not 80
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produce novelties, they produce premium quality products. Uchenna Ikonne, who recently launched his own record label Comb & Razor Sounds, frequently sells and distributes his label’s albums through Get On Down’s online store. Last year, he had tremendous success with Brand New Wayo, a collection of Nigerian pop-disco, and just recently, The Semi Colons, a popular Nigerian band during the ‘70s. “Working with Get On Down,” he says, “Is great for me because as a company they completely understand the value and importance of packaging as an art-form.” While the music he distributes through Get On Down differs from their more prominent rap and hip hop albums, Ikonne says that they agree on aesthetics and presentation of the albums. “My releases tend to be…deluxe affairs with big booklets full of photos, essays and other contextual content…I know a lot of companies would not have the patience to deal with that.They just want to put the record on a disc, offer a few pages of liner notes and throw it out there!” In a lot of ways, Get On Down pulls at the heartstrings of nostalgia by presenting music in a way that takes the listener back to whenever they first listened to the record or album. Andrinopoulos notes his personal favorite, Raekwon’s Only Built 4 Cuban Linx, which Get On Down will be releasing on September 11. “The whole thing about the Raekwon album was that he put out an album on a purple cassette tape. And over the years, it gained fame as being known as the purple tape. It’s an iconic thing. So, this year we are doing a 10”x10” piano lacquer box with a glass top with the actual cassette inside…and it plays! Obviously, it is more for a mantel piece and for show, but it encompasses what the 15-year-old me would love to see and wow out on…that’s a record that the younger generation is already well-aware of and can still get into. As a classic record of the ‘90s, it was Raekwon’s landmark album. It’s influenced everyone from Kanye to Jay Z to PortisHead.” The attention to the look and feel of Raekwon’s album Get On down will put out signifies how important that record is in music history. “I think that everything we have done, we have been fans of. So, we really hit the nail on the head from everything from packaging to presentation,” Andrinopolous says. “It just doesn’t make sense for us to start doing things just because it is saleable or might make money; if none of us can do it justice…We just feel we get it. I think the fact that we do; we really can do it properly.” Ikonne appreciates what Get On Down did with the GZA album. “I like the finesse that Get On Down brings to packaging, the way that they’re able to take small, but definitive visual motifs from releases and build them into overarching design themes.” He notes how Get On Down took an image of guys engaging in combat on a giant chessboard from the original album cover, and made it an actual and useable chessboard. He points out how Get
On Down was able to take the Ol’ Dirty Bastard original cover with the artist pictured on a welfare card, and transform it into an album that was a full-sized wallet with a real laminated replica of that welfare card, giving fans something to hold, something tangible and real. Adrinopoulos references the GZA chess set, which came as part of the Liquid Swords album release. Aside from the album, there is a long interview with GZA in the liner notes, a functional chess set and a bonus disc of instrumentals. Another project Get On Down released this year, was the Pharcyde music box, which had a puzzle inside, a CD and a 7-45. Every time the box opened, music played. “It was a huge elaborate project,” Adrinopoulos states, “And I really think it was unbelievable and just overwhelming.” In addition to album and record releases, Get On Down is expanding their business into merchandise as well. Available on their website, music-lovers can find T-shirts, sweatshirts, toys, hip hop puzzles, DVDs, DJ accessories and other products associated with music and the hip-hop genre. Later this year in November, Get On Down will be releasing a drum machine book with photos taken by Gary Land of Boston. The book explores the different varieties of drum machines and their influence on the music culture. Beat Box: A Drum Machine Obsession was put together by Joe Mansfield, who collects drum machines. The lifestyle aspect of the merchandise lets people connect with their favorite albums or records. “If these were available back then, I would have flipped out,” Adrinopoulos
says, and then after some reflection adds, “If I had nothing to do with this, I would still be buying these records or these CDs. The music we are doing is important, and it has impacted a lot of people’s lives. We are well aware of what our audience wants and what the reach is. We try to fulfill it each time.” Get On Down is motivated by identifying the void in the music culture, particularly with regards to premium packaging. With physical music sales decreasing because of MP3s, a space is left for premium releases for the fans out there who still want it. “Instead of just pumping out new releases every month,” Adrinopolous says, “We spend two years on something like the Pharcyde release and stick it out and put a lot of our blood, sweat and tears into it…and did an amazing job. It’s a real super hit.” Ikonne agrees with Adrinopoulos: “There’s something irreplaceable about having an object that is tactile and has weight…People…will always want something that you can touch, that can be displayed in a decorative manner, that can incite conversations, that provides a physical link to a particular point in time,” then he adds, “and MP3s just don’t cut it."
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THIS SPREAD Metal beaded leather blazer by LUCIAN MATIS Black leather neck piece by GRETA CONSTANTINE Black satin harem pant by GRETA CONSTANTINE Cream and gold snakeskin bracelet by ALEXIS BITTAR Pewter snakeskin bracelet by ALEXIS BITTAR Headpiece by STYLIST OWN
DARK HORSE Photography by MIKE LEWIS @ MIKELEWIS.CA Styling by TIFFANY BRISENO Hair and Makeup by ALISON SHARP Model JENICA @ FORD MODELS
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OPPOSITE Beaded structured top by LUCIAN MATIS Black rabbit hair tuque by PINK TARTAN Necklace worn as head piece extension by BABY STEINBERG Gold and blue snakeskin earrings by KARA ROSS THIS PAGE Black crepe skirt by JOIE Camel crepe blouse by PINK TARTAN Grey mohair shoulder epaulettes by PINK TARTAN Wool sweater by LOVE ZOOEY Black suede pump by JEFFREY CAMPBELL Gold distressed metal bracelet by ALEXIS BITTAR Silver leather bracelet by KARA ROSS
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THIS PAGE Wool fringe dress by LUCIAN MATIS Camel leather shrug by CHLOE COMME PARIS Crystal chocker by CHLOE COMME PARIS OPPOSITE Black and navy silk mandarin collar blouse by PINK TARTAN Grey leather jacket with peplum by CHLOE COMME PARIS Gold ear piece with chains by EDDIE BORGO Nose ring and chain by DANDI MAESTRE Navy cotton twill pants and hardware detail by HELMUT LANG
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OPPOSITE Black fringe pancho by ELIE TAHARY Black turtleneck by THEORY Blue silk maxi dress by CHLOE COMME PARIS Gold and black stone ring by KARA ROSS THIS PAGE Gold top by MALENE BIRGER Blue wool blazer by VINCE Grey silk skirt by LUCIAN MATIS Cashmere gloves by RALPH LAUREN Gold and black necklace by TORY BURCH
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THIS SPREAD Body by MOISÉS NIETO Skirt by GERARD DAREL Shoes by ASSAAD AWAD Bracelets by SWAROVSKI
BLACK MAGIC WOMAN Photography by TIAGO PRISCO @HELMUT&CO Styling by JESS MONTERDE @ HELMUT&CO Hair, Makeup, and Nails by JUNIOR QUEIRÓS @ JEMMA KID Model LAURITA JASNAUSKAITE @ UNO MODELS BARCELONA
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OPPOSITE Feather mask by ASSAAD AWAD Shirt by GUESS BY MARCINAO Skirt by COMME DES GARÇONS OPPOSITE Vest by EVA ZINGONI Skirt by CUSTO BARCE-LONA Tights by WOLFORD Necklace by ANDRÉS GALLARDO Shoes by ASSAAD AWAD
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THIS PAGE Jacket by GUESS BY MARCIANO Skirt by WHO Militar boots by WHO Purse by SWAROVSKI Necklace by H&M OPPOSITE Dress by ANTIK BATIK Panties by TCN Necklace by ANDRÉS GALLARDO
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THIS PAGE Body by TARA JARMON Overalls by AMERICAN APPAREL Shoes by JEFFREY CAMPBELL Panties by TCN Bone bracelet by ASSAAD AWAD Dress by ISABEL MARANT FOR LA COMERCIAL Bra by TCN Leather pants by SANDRO Bracelets by SWAROVSKI Boots and crown by ASSAAD AWAD OPPOSITE Jacket by VENENO EN LA PIEL Shorts by G-STAR Tights by WOLFORD Bracelets by UTERQÜE
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THIS PAGE Shirt by GUESS BY MARCINAO Skirt by COMME DES GARÇONS Shoes by JEFFREY CAMPBELL OPPOSITE Dress by ALFREDO VILLALBA Tights by WOLFORD Shoes by ASH
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METALLICA Photography by SIMON SONGHURST @ SIXTYONE PRODUCTIONS Styling by RACHEL GOLD Hair by BRADY LEA Makeup by AIMEE ADAMS @ SIXTYONE PRODUCTIONS Manicures by HELEN J @ SIXTYONE PRODUCTIONS Models FLO & RILEY @ SELECT MODEL MANAGEMENT Styling Assistant HANNAH CROSSKEY
OPPOSITE Brass rounded conus by PEBBLE LONDON Taureg brass disk pendant on black leather by PEBBLE LONDON Gold bobbles on gold chain 22CT STYLISTS OWN Long scarf by AMANDA WAKELEY Metal belt by STYLISH ANGEL Afghan gold and black onyx ring by PEBBLE LONDON
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THIS PAGE Mirror ring by LUCA ROMANYI Solid silver bangle by VICTORIA BEDWELL Silvered metal spiral cuff by PEBBLE LONGDON Silvered metal rectangles by PEBBLE LONDON Silver sequin vest by ROKIT OPPOSITE Silver chunky link necklace by VICTORIA BEDWELL Long silver links by ARIANNA CERRITO Silver sequin vest by ROKIT
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THIS PAGE Gold chains necklace by CARTIER (STYLIST'S OWN) Bubbling filigree ring by IMOGEN BELFIELD Peacock feather metal cuff by PEBBLE LONDON 2 lizard cuff by PEBBLE LONDON Golden metal bracelet by PEBBLE LONDON Gold sequin top by BIBA OPPOSITE Gold lace earrings by JULIA BURNESS Gold onyx ring by ANTIQUARIUS Brass cuff by SOUK MARRAKESCH Brass filigree mesh ring by PEBBLE LONDON Brass studs on wooden bangle by PEBBLE LONDON Gold egg on chain by TEL AVIV (STYLISTS OWN) Gold and silver tubes on leather by BEXY LADY Gold Blouse by ZARA
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THIS SPREAD Short dress with tessellation detail by ALICE PALMER Silver sequin jacket sleeves by CHINA TING SHANGHAI Silver coil necklace by BEXY LADY Silver Miao pendant by PEBBLE LONDON Blue glass facetted ring by PEBBLE LONDON Silver lace disc ring by JULIA BURNESS
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