TASTE
OFF THE VINE
Italy's ALPINE Wines
Wines from ALTO ADIGE are shaped by Alpine elevations and Adriatic breezes
By Mark Spivak The wines of Alto Adige are not widely known in this country, which is probably a good thing: If Americans realized how special they are, you’d never be able to find them. At their best, they have vivid fruit, electric acidity, and a palate presence that is compelling and memorable. Alto Adige (also known as Südtirol) is Italy’s northernmost wine region, located just below Austria. While white varieties predominate (notably Riesling, Sauvignon, Gewürztraminer, and of course Pinot Grigio), some excellent reds are also made. Most wineries are still familyowned, and this is an exciting time in the region, as a new generation is taking over at some of the area’s top properties. Alois Lageder: Regarded by many as Alto Adige’s iconic winery, Alois Lageder was
established in 1823 and is managed by Alois Lageder, a descendent of the original founder. All three of his children are now involved, too: his successor Alois Clemens Lageder plus his daughters Anna (who coordinates special events) and Helena (who serves as brand ambassador). The family’s 135 acres of vineyards are farmed biodynamically, and the solar-powered winery is committed to sustainability. Lageder’s large portfolio contains dozens of wines. He cultivates unique white-grape varieties such as Manzoni Bianco as well as regional specialties like Lagrein and Schiava. His best-known red is the Cor Römigberg Cabernet Sauvignon ($60), a complex, concentrated wine with exotic spice notes, supple tannins, and rich flavors of cherries and blackcurrants. (aloislageder.eu) Tiefenbrunner: Founded in 1848, the winery is currently run by the fifth generation (Christof and Sabine) as the sixth (Johannes) studies winemaking in Germany while being groomed to take over the estate. Tiefenbrunner produces four distinct lines of wine, categorized according to the elevation, position, and quality of the vineyard site. At the top of the range is the Feldmarschall
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