Perfect Diver Magazine 37 issue Diving Freediving Passion Knowledge

No. 37

1 (37)/2025

JANUARY/FEBRUARY

Price 12,50 € Tax included

BONJOUR CAVES diving freediving passion knowledge

ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES.

Wojciech Zgoła Editor-in-Chief

Dear Readers

Here is the latest issue of Perfect Diver, offering a true feast for underwater world enthusiasts and those who love pushing boundaries in exploring the wonders of nature.

On the cover – a masterpiece by Przemek Zyber, showcasing the majestic Ressel Cave in France. This split shot is a gateway to the captivating world of caves, which hold not only mysteries but also challenges for divers – more about this inside.

We dive deep – both into the water and into fascinating topics. We explore the picturesque Curaçao, where the underwater world blends with vibrant land culture. We visit the Maldives, which, as it turns out, offer much more than just sharks and mantas. We admire the beauty of Croatia’s Kornati Islands and venture to Elphinstone Reef, a place that constantly captivates with its wildness and magic. Meanwhile, Aldona poses a question many of us ponder this winter: “Does diving in cold water bring health benefits?”

There’s also plenty of space for reflection and learning. Do dolphins have personalities? Jakub Banasiak delves into this fascinating topic in an article sure to pique your curiosity. Wojtek A. Filip, on the other hand, reveals the surprising answer to the question: How much does water weigh in a BCD? And Dominik Dopierała takes you on a unique journey into the connection between alcohol and diving – an unexpected but highly valuable perspective. Finally, someone dared to write about it!

For nature lovers, we’ve prepared something special – an article about the birds you can encounter at dive sites, as well as a story about freshwater underwater meadows. Don’t miss the results of the Nautica Safari 2024 contest – a source of inspiration for anyone dreaming of underwater photography.

Dive into this extraordinary adventure with us. The digital edition is waiting for you now, and if you prefer the traditional format, the print version is also available. We wish you wonderful moments with Perfect Diver. Dive with us – above and below the water.

We publish the CORRECTION of the author of the article "Breathing, hyperventilation and diving", which appeared in the 5(35)2024 issue. Refers to the paragraph on page 64: "Diving as a therapy for breathing. By becoming a diver, a person is forced to rethink their way of breathing. Underwater, where air is supplied from limited resources, breath control becomes a priority. Divers who breathe excessively through their mouths quickly learn that this habit not only wastes air, but can also lead to fatigue and discomfort. Over time, the scuba diver can adopt a healthier way of breathing, which leads to more efficient air use – about 4-6 litres per minute – which is the recommended level for both underwater and land”.

The Editors

Correction and Clarification: Underwater Air Consumption

In our earlier article, there was some imprecision regarding air consumption during the dive. I would like to clarify this issue in order to better reflect the reality and mechanics of breathing underwater, taking into account the key law of physics – Boyle's Law.

At a depth of 10 meters, the pressure increases to 2 atmospheres, which means that the air consumption from the cylinders also increases proportionally. While my individual surface air consumption is around 4-6 litres per minute, which is in line with Dr. Buteyko's recommendations for effective breathing, the average consumption for recreational divers is usually 15-25 litres per minute at the surface.

After taking into account the depth, at 10 meters, where the pressure is 2 atmospheres, this consumption doubles – to 30-50 litres per minute. Such values are typical for recreational divers, although more advanced divers, due to better breath control, can achieve consumption closer to the lower end of this range.

TIPS & CURIOSITIES

Editor-in-Chief

Technical Diver

World Geography & Travels

Reportage

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English Language Translators

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Graphic Designer

Publisher PERFECT DIVER Sp. z o.o. ul. Folwarczna 37, 62-081 Przeźmierowo redakcja@perfectdiver.com ISSN 2545-3319

It is worth noting that breathing control is crucial during diving. Even if air consumption increases with depth, the ability to breathe calmly and consciously allows you to extend your dive time and improve your comfort underwater. Working on your breathing, both underwater and on the surface, has benefits for your health, well-being and performance.

Aldona Dreger, WeWell Diving

WOJCIECH ZGOŁA TOMEK KULCZYŃSKI

ANNA METRYCKA

DOMINIKA ABRAHAMCZYK reklama@perfectdiver.com

AGNIESZKA GUMIELA-PAJĄKOWSKA, ARLETA KAŹMIERCZAK, PIOTR WITEK, TOMEK KULCZYŃSKI

Adwokat JOANNA WAJSNIS

BRYGIDA JACKOWIAK-RYDZAK

THE MAGAZINE IS FOLDED WITH TYPEFACES Montserrat (Julieta Ulanovsky), Open Sans (Ascender Fonts), Noto Serif, Noto Sans (Google)

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Wieland Drukarnia Cyfrowa, Poznań, www.wieland.com.pl

DISTRIBUTION online store sklep.perfectdiver.pl redakcja@perfectdiver.com

Passionate about diving and pure nature. He likes to say that he travels by diving. He learned to swim when he was less than 6 years old. At the age of 15, he obtained a yacht sailor's license and has been diving since 2006. He has completed over 800 dives in various regions of the world. He wrote and published many articles.

Co-author of photo exhibitions. An advocate of leaving the place of residence clean and unblemished. Diving promoter. Since 2008 he has been running his own website www. dive-adventure.eu. Based on extensive experience, in 2018 he created the new Perfect Diver Magazine, which has been successfully published regularly every two months in Polish and English for 7 years.

A graduate of geography at the University of Wrocław, an incorrigible optimist... permanently with a smile on her lips 

I have been diving since 2002, which is more than half of my life  I started diving in Polish waters, to which I willingly return during the year – and it gives me great pleasure! :) I must have come to Activtour by destiny and I have stayed here for good... for over 10 years! I am passionate about fulfilling people's dreams by preparing diving trips around the world!  Personally – I fly and dive in different seas and seas whenever I can, because it is one of the loves of my life Since the beginning of the existence of the PD magazine, I have been transferring my memories of diving trips to paper, sharing my passion with others and I can't stop writing ;) 2023 permanently in the PD editorial office – hoping to bring her some "fresh blood" ;) A diving dream come true: Galapagos! Still ahead of me… Antarctica! If I don't dive, I choose skiing, tennis or strong rock sounds! ;) The motto that I really like is: "Be realistic – start dreaming"! :) anna@activtour.pl; www.activtour.pl;

A traveller and a photographer of wild nature. A graduate of journalism and a lover of good literature. She lives in harmony with nature, promotes a healthy lifestyle: she is a yogini and a vegetarian. Also engaged in ecological projects. Sharks and their protection are especially close to her heart. She writes about the subject in numerous articles and on her blog www.blog.dive-away.pl. She began her adventure with diving fifteen years ago by total coincidence. Today she is a diving instructor, she visited over 60 countries and dived on 5 continents. She invites us for a joint journey with the travel agency www.dive-away. pl, of which she is a co-founder.

For Tomek, diving has always been his greatest passion. He started his adventure at the age of 14, developing into a recreational and technical diving instructor, a first aid instructor and a diving industry technician. Currently, he runs the 5* COMPASS DIVERS Pobiedziska Diving Center near Poznań, where he passes his knowledge and skills to beginners and advanced divers, which gives him great joy and satisfaction from being part of their underwater adventure...

Infected with a passion for diving by Perfect Diver. She continues to expand her diving skills. Although she definitely prefers warm waters, she dons a dry suit and explores colder bodies of water as well. Her favorite dives are those with plenty of marine life! Recently, she’s been taking her phone underwater in a protective case, trying her hand at amateur photography. She’s also curious about diving medicine. Professionally, she’s a Master’s degree nurse and a surgical scrub nurse.

Zoopsychologist, researcher and expert in dolphin behavior, committed to the idea of protecting dolphins and fighting against keeping them in dolphinariums. Passionate about Red Sea and underwater encounters with large pelagic predators. Member of the Dolphinaria-Free Europe Coalition, volunteer of the Tethys Research Institute and Cetacean Research & Rescue Unit, collaborator of Marine Connection. For over 15 years, he has been participating in research on wild dolphin populations, auditing dolphinariums, and monitoring the quality of whale watching cruises. As the head of the "Free & Safe" project (formerly "NO! for a dolphinarium"), he prevents keeping dolphins in captivity, promotes ethical whale & dolphin watching, trains divers in responsible swimming with wild dolphins, and popularizes knowledge about dolphin therapy that is passed over in silence or hidden by profit-making centers. on this form of animal therapy.

WOJCIECH ZGOŁA ANNA METRYCKA

JAKUB BANASIAK

SYLWIA KOSMALSKA-JURIEWICZ

TOMEK KULCZYŃSKI

DOMINIKA ABRAHAMCZYK

He has been diving for 35 years. He has spent more than 16,000 hours underwater, most of them diving technically. He has been an instructor and mentor instructor for many organizations including CMAS, GUE, IANTD, PADI. He co-created the training programs for some of them. He is a professional with vast knowledge and practical experience. He has participated in many diving projects as a leader, explorer, initiator or speaker. He was the first Pole to dive the HMHS Britannic wreck (117m). He was the first to explore the deep part of the Glavas Cave (118m). He made a series of dives documenting the wreck of ORP GROM (110m). He has documented deep (100-120m) parts of flooded mines. He is the creator and designer of many equipment solutions to improve diving safety.

Technical Director at Tecline, where, among other things, he manages the Tecline Academy a research and training facility. Author of several hundred articles on diving and books on diagnosis and repair of diving equipment.

He dives in rivers, lakes, caves, seas and oceans all over the world.

WOJCIECH JAROSZ

A graduate of two Poznan universities, the Academy of Physical Education (coaching specialization –handball) and the University of A.Mickiewicz, Faculty of Biology (specialty of experimental biology). He connected his professional life with this first university trying to influence the direction of development of future professionals on the one hand, and on the other planning and implementing research, pushing laboriously in the right direction of the stroller called science. In his free time he spends his time actively – his main passions are sailing (sea helmsman), skiing (downhill skiing instructor), riding a motorcycle, recreational diving and many other activities, as well as photography, mainly nature.

From an early age, Michał Bazała was fascinated by aquatic ecosystems, developing his passion for the underwater world as a biologist and aquarist. In 2014, he fulfilled his dream of personally exploring the depths. Underwater, he is almost always accompanied by a camera, and since 2022, also by students, as an instructor of the Polish IDF federation and a technical diver. He founded the Wilanów-based dive center Royal Divers, where he promotes mindful diving and emphasizes the richness and fragility of aquatic ecosystems, even in small, local ponds.

He honed his underwater photography skills while diving after work with the Group Exploring Suburban Dive Sites around Warsaw. A two-time finalist of the Underwater Photographer of the Year competition, Michał actively supports environmental protection initiatives, participating in campaigns that raise public awareness about the need to safeguard our underwater world. His greatest dream is to explore the little-known reefs of the Pacific Ocean, where he hopes to discover and document the untouched beauty of nature.

www.facebook.com/bazala.fotografia www.instagram.com/michal_bazala/ royaldivers.pl, bazala.pl

My adventure with photography began long before I started diving. From the very first dive I dreamed that I would be accompanied by a camera. As I became more adept at diving, my photography gear evolved as well. From a simple gopro camera through a compact and SLR camera to a full-frame mirrorless camera. Now I can't imagine diving without a camera. I have the impression that underwater photography gives meaning to my diving. www.facebook.com/przemyslaw.zyber www.instagram.com/przemyslaw_zyber/ www.deep-art.pl

A long, long time ago in a galaxy far, far away there was chaos...

…that is, the multitude of thoughts and delights after my first immersion under water in 2005 in the form of INTRO while on vacation in Egypt. By then I had completely immersed myself in the underwater world and wanted it to have an increasing impact on my life. 2 years later, I took an OWD course, which I received as a gift for my 18th birthday, and over time, further courses and skills improvement appeared.

"Photography" appeared not much later, but initially in the form of a disposable underwater "Kodak" from which the photos came out stunningly blue 

I am not a fan of one type of diving, although my greatest weakness at the moment is for large pelagic animals. The Galapagos Islands were my best opportunity to photograph so many species of marine fauna so far.

I share my passion for diving and photography with my buddy, who is my wife  IG: luke.divewalker; www.lukedivewalker.com

Laura is a journalist, instructor trainer, CCR and cave diver. She has been developing her diving career for over a decade, gaining knowledge and experience in various fields. Her specialty is professional diving training, but her passion for the underwater environment and its protection drives her to explore various places around the world. From the depths of the Lombok Strait, caves in Mexico and wrecks in Malta to the Maldives, where she runs a diving center awarded by the Ministry of Tourism as the best diving center in the Maldives. Laura actively contributes to promoting the protection of the marine environment, takes part in scientific projects, campaigns against ocean littering and cooperates with non-governmental organizations. You can find her at @laura_kazi_diving www.divemastergilis.com

WOJCIECH A. FILIP

ŁUKASZ METRYCKI / Luke Divewalker

LAURA KAZIMIERSKA

PRZEMYSŁAW ZYBER

MICHAŁ BAZAŁA

constant cooperation

He has been diving forever, he does not remember his first dives. The only thing he remembers is that diving has always been his passion. He spent his entire childhood on Polish lakes, which he still prefers to distant destinations. With great success, he turned his passion into a way of life and business. Curiosity of the world and constant striving for perfection are the main features that definitely hinder him in life. Professional diving instructor, photographer, filmmaker.

Creator of the DECO Diving Center, PADI Course Director, TecTrimix Instructor Trainer TECREC.

our authors

Zodiac Libra. Enthusiast of a healthy lifestyle, fond of active leisure. Lover of the underwater world and underwater photography. HR employee, and after hours SDI diving instructor, Vital Mentor, Diet coach. Thanks to her passion for psychology, working with people and the ability to listen, she knows that everything starts in the head. He highly values the ability to communicate without words underwater. Water helped her discover completely unknown mobility possibilities, and overcoming her own limitations, as well as learning something new in the natural environment, in the context of communing with nature, helped her rebuild her mental condition. Partner of the diving school https://wewelldiving.pl

Better known as Wąski.

Professionally, the main health and safety specialist, fire protection inspector and first aid instructor. Privately, husband and father of his daughter. A member of the Bellator Societas, where he is called St. Marcin, because every year he plays the character during the name day of the street on November 11 in Poznań. Of course, for many years an avid diver. He loves technical diving, especially those on wrecks and everything related to activity above and below water :)

A graduate of the Poznań University of Technology, financier, the auditor. A diver fascinated by theory diving – physics and physiology. In love passionate about history in underwater archaeology Ancient Rome, active Centurion in the group reconstructionist Bellator Societas (Rome I century BC). He dreams of attending at least once underwater archaeological research a then describe everything in a series of columns.

It can be found as often as under water in Japan, whose culture and history he has been fascinated by nearly three decades.

A legal adviser by profession, trying to help, not win at all costs. A lover of warm climates and blue water. He took up diving in 2018 as an extension of his favorite snorkeling. Now, he plans almost every trip to get his fins wet somewhere. His son Damian is his diving partner. His passion for underwater photography was born from an inner need to capture fleeting memories. Currently, he also tries to use photography to raise awareness of the need to protect marine life and show the impact of climate change in the aquatic environment. Follow him on Instagram: @mydiving.pl

He was supposedly born with a camera in hand… Some say he uses lenses instead of glasses and develops photos before they’re even taken! Thanks to his unique powers, he combines travel, photography, and diving into one passion. A man of contradictions: he loves the mountains but feels drawn to the sea, lives for adventure yet works in boring IT, adores warmth but resides in a country where it’s dark and cold for half the year. His spirit animal is the manatee: he freezes below 23 degrees Celsius, and although he looks hefty, he has only a thin layer of fat. A technology enthusiast, especially when it comes to anything related to capturing images. In his free time, he browses and compares flight deals to diving destinations, which keeps his bank account permanently in the red.

A salesperson by profession, a diver and traveler by passion. She has been diving since 2011. For 12 years, as a professional, she has been infecting successive generations of lovers of the deep sea with her passion. She started as a Divemaster and later an Instructor at PADI. In 2015, together with her husband, she founded her own diving school "Lionfish" in Pruszków near Warsaw. Since 2019, she has been associated with the Polish diving organization IDF. She achieves the greatest successes in initial training and her "hobby horse" is working with young diving enthusiasts. She loves underwater photography and traveling to the farthest corners of the world. www.lionfish.pl

ALDONA DREGER

ŁUKASZ GINALSKI

KRZYSZTOF BRUDKOWSKI

ANIA PASZTA

PIOTR KOPEĆ

MICHAŁ CZERNIAK

DOMINIK DOPIERAŁA

www.compassdivers.pl

CURAÇAO

AND EVERYTHING IS CLEAR :)

Ding-dong! This is your captain speaking...The announcement woke me from a light nap I managed to take toward the end of our 10-hour flight. “We have begun our descent and will soon be landing at your travel destination, THE ISLAND OF CURAÇAO. The temperature is a pleasant 27°C, with clear skies and a light ocean breeze. For those of you staying on the island to spend the holidays, we wish you a wonderful time. To those...” The rest of the announcement didn’t concern me. WE’RE STAYING!

Curaçao is the largest of the three ABC islands (Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao), part of the former Dutch Antilles, and located within the Lesser Antilles archipelago. Situated 60 km north of Venezuela, it was a dependency of the Netherlands until 1954. The island stretches 64 km from north to south and is just under 16 km wide at its widest point.

A Diver’s Paradise

What makes diving in Curaçao exceptional? The island of-

fers over 88 diving spots suitable for divers of all levels, many of which are accessible directly from the shore. The moderate climate and water temperatures ranging between 27-30°C ensure a year-round diving season, with crystal-clear waters offering visibility of up to 30 meters. And there is so much to see! The underwater landscape is a kaleidoscope of colors and shapes dominated by Caribbean reef sponges, gorgonians, and brain corals. Add to that a rich marine life, featuring schools of fish, turtles, crustaceans, and cephalopods. If you’re lucky, you might

Text ŁUKASZ GINALSKI Photos ANETA i ŁUKASZ GINALSCY

Mermaid Camp at Klein Curaçao

HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

The history of this Caribbean Island begins with ancient cave paintings created by its prehistoric inhabitants, dating back to around 3000 BC. It is believed that the Arawaks settled Curaçao after migrating from South America. The first Europeans to arrive on the island were Amerigo Vespucci and Alonso de Ojeda, who claimed it for Spain. However, it was not until 1634 that the Dutch took control, transforming it into a key hub for colonial trade between the Americas, Africa, and Europe.

Over the years, the island faced various challenges, including a significant slave revolt in 1795, which eventually led to the abolition of slavery almost 70 years later. In modern history, the island’s development was greatly influenced by the construction of an oil refinery by Royal Dutch Shell, which processed crude oil extract-

ed off the coast of Venezuela. The export of petroleum products became a major source of income, contributing to the island’s growth and prosperity.

The capital, Willemstad, located on St. Anna Bay, evolved into a bustling cultural and commercial center, now home to approximately 150,000 residents. Its colorful Dutch colonial buildings have become a defining feature of the city, earning it a place on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. The two districts, Punda and Otrobanda, are connected by both the Queen Emma floating pontoon bridge and the 57-meter-high Queen Juliana Road bridge.

In 2010, the dissolution of the Netherlands Antilles granted Curaçao constitutional autonomy. It became a self-governing state with its own currency and domestic policies, while remaining part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands alongside Saint Maarten.

encounter dolphins, rays, or eagle rays. For nature lovers, it’s a feast for the eyes! Local dive operators work hard to maintain these pristine underwater ecosystems. Most dives in Curaçao involve wall dives or gently sloping reef descents. However, there’s more! Some sites cater to wreck diving enthusiasts, with the “Superior Producer” near Mega Pier in Willemstad ranked as one of the best wreck dives in the world. Meanwhile, the famous small tugboat at Tugboat Beach, resting at just 5 meters, allows even snorkelers to explore it on a single breath.

For families traveling with non-divers, Curaçao offers plenty of activities. From picturesque beaches with snorkeling opportunities to trips to national parks, cultural exploration, shopping, and world-class dining, there’s something for everyone.

Elkhorn coral, typical of Caribbean reefs. It’s fragile, which is why it rarely grows to such sizes, Directors Bay

Flounder at Tugboat Beach

Laura @laura.van.loon Superior Producer

Sculptures at Playa Kalki

Do It Yourself, with a Partner, or in a Group!

For me, diving in Curaçao is a personal El Dorado! You can choose from numerous dive centers on the island and, depending on your skill level, dive with a guide, at your own pace with a buddy, or book a spot on a Dive Bus that takes you to the island’s best dive spots, complete with company and provisions for the day. We opted for the “all you can dive” option, which many dive centers offer for a fixed daily fee. You can dive as much as you want – collect tanks in the morning (Nitrox is often available), head out to dive, and return in the evening or the next morning to swap empty tanks for full ones. This is a cost-effective diving method. Some operators even provide a rental car as part of the package! Most dive centers also sell Reef Smart Guides to all the dive sites on the island, filled with information and tips that effectively replace traditional briefings.

With tanks packed, it’s time to hit the road! Most dive sites are located on the island’s west, sheltered from the ocean currents and surf with only a few on the eastern side, accessible only during calm seas (a rare occurrence). The west coast can be divided into three sections, each differing in character and accessibility. Central Curaçao… is for those who enjoy bustling activity, entertainment, and social interaction. Willemstad, with its shops, bars, and restaurants, is located here. From here, it's close to Fort Amsterdam, the charming old town with pastel-colored

houses famous from postcards, and the drawbridge. Naturally, there are also diving spots here – Double Reef, Kokomo Beach to the north, or the famous Tugboat Beach and nearby Director’s Bay, which once housed a center for Shell's company management.

The port is also home to the aforementioned “Superior Producer,” a cargo ship that sank during loading in 1977. Diving this wreck requires planning, as it is located where cruise ships dock, and diving is only possible when no cruise ships are in port. After registering at the port’s security gate, head toward the pier for water access. Upon descending, you’ll be greeted by schools of Blue Tang fish gliding between the pier’s columns. The wreck lies about 30 meters deep, parallel to the pier, approximately 50 meters south of the entry point. As you swim, you’ll encounter a few tarpons hovering motionlessly like sentinels until, in the blue depths ahead, the bow of the wreck begins to emerge. If you’re lucky, there won’t be strong currents, and visibility will be around 15–20 meters, allowing you to fully appreciate the size of the steel structure. Among the colorful corals, gorgonians, and sponges covering the wreck, schools of vibrant fish dart about, and sometimes you might even surprise a resting turtle. This artificial reef, which has been forming for nearly half a century, attracts predators like barracudas or schools of jacks. For underwater photographers, two dives are

Laura @laura.van.loon in the wheelhouse of Superior Producer

a minimum: one with a wide-angle lens and another with a macro lens. Nudibranchs, shrimp, octopuses, spider crabs, and even frogfish inhabit the nooks and crannies of the wreck. The open cargo holds and the bridge invite exploration of the interior. Time flies, and approaching decompression limits force a slow ascent. However, the impression left by the Superior Producer rivals wreck dives in the Red Sea or even Palau.

Northern Curaçao

This part of the island offers a different vibe. Those seeking peace, closeness to nature, and ideal diving conditions will find their haven here. Narrow roads and proximity to national parks encourage hiking, while accommodations, often small resorts or bungalows, provide direct sea access, sometimes right from the terrace of your bungalow. Some of the best dive sites are located here, including Playa

Tugboat Beach and my wife :)

Amazing sea fans and sponges at Kathy’s Paradise

Tugboat Beach

Kalki (Alice in Wonderland), Playa Piscado (Turtle Beach), Grote Knip, and Mushroom Forest. From schools of doctor fish and moray eels to underwater sculptures and incredible coral formations resembling a mushroom forest, there’s so much to explore. Everything here is just a few kilometers apart. Morning dives at Playa Piscado almost guarantee encounters with turtles, as local fishermen clean their catch near the shore. However, it’s best to dive there in the morning, before buses of cruise ship tourists arrive and crowd the waters around the dock.

The Wild, Wild South Diving in the southern part of the island feels like plunging into an aquarium. Pristine reefs, schools of fish, and at the

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

How to get there

Direct flights from Europe to Curaçao are operated by KLM from Amsterdam, with numerous charter options also available. The flight takes approximately 10 hours, with a time difference of – 5 hours (-6 in winter).

Climate

The island has a dry, warm climate influenced by warm currents surrounding it and the dry northeastern trade winds. Winter temperatures range from around 22 to 26°C, while summer brings temperatures between 28 and 31°C. The best time for divers to visit the island is between January and April, when underwater visibility is at its peak, reaching up to 30 meters.

Curaçao is a windy island, with 95% of the wind blowing from the east at an average speed of around 30 km/h, although the western side is shielded from its effects. Between May and September, humidity and the number of cloudy days increase.

The rainy season occurs from October to December, with sudden and intense rainfall that can form temporary rivers carrying silt into the sea, making underwater conditions unsuitable for diving.

Curaçao lies outside the main hurricane path, so there’s no need to worry about them.

Car Rentals

All major rental chains and several local companies operate on the island, conveniently located near the airport. They of-

edge of visibility, dolphins or eagle rays darting by. Encounters with other divers are rare – but that’s no surprise. To get there, you need to leave your car in the parking lot at the marina in Jan Thiel and board a boat. Passing the Sandals Resort, the boat heads south along the coastline. It quickly becomes clear why these dive sites aren’t accessible from the shore. While there are roads leading to the area, the cliffs make safe water entry impossible.

This time, we were lucky. Some members of our charter group didn’t show up on time, so we got to dive alone with our guide. The moment we entered the water, we were swept away by mild but a noticeable current pulling us along a wall, covered in forests of gorgonians, sea whips, and sponges. Everything here seems larger than life, as if

fer both traditional and electric vehicles. If you're visiting during the high season, it's best to book a car in advance, as the number of available vehicles is limited, and prices can skyrocket! It's advisable to get insurance that covers tires, windows, and the undercarriage. Many roads are gravel, making these parts prone to damage. Some dive centers also provide vehicles when renting tanks from them. This can be a great alternative to renting from traditional agencies.

Accommodation

Curaçao offers a wide range of accommodation options suitable for almost any budget. From luxurious resorts and hotels to self-catering apartments, B&Bs, dive resorts, and budget-friendly rooms, there's something for everyone.

A quick look at one of the popular booking websites will help you find the perfect fit. In most cases, you'll also find a dive center conveniently located near your chosen accommodation.

Diving sites

● Parking at most dive sites is free, and often equipped with restrooms and showers (though these may require a small fee).

● In some cases, the number of parking spots is limited, so it’s a good idea to arrive early.

● Most beaches also have dive center representatives, who can assist with minor technical issues.

● A tarp comes in handy for changing, and a plastic sheet is useful to protect your car’s trunk or seats from wet gear (ask at the dive center for one). Rental companies are not fond of saltwater stains.

● It’s best not to leave any items in plain sight, and make sure to leave your empty trunk open.

● There is no land access to dive sites in the south. To book a boat, ask for assistance from the dive center. Dive Curaçao has a boat for several people, and I can recommend them with confidence.

● The Superior Producer is only accessible on days when no cruise ship is docked at Mega Pier (https://cruisedig.com/ports/ willemstad-curacao). Entry to the port is free, but all entrants must have an ID and register at the guardhouse.

● Some charters to Klein Curaçao (e.g. Marmaid) offer the possibility to do two dives as part of the trip. However, you must inform the operator when booking. These are boat-supported dives, so you need to be capable of diving independently. If you want a guide, contact About Jackie Fine Diving – info@aboutjackiefinediving.com (dives take place on Thursdays).

● If you want to see exceptional places on the island, both underwater and on the surface, you can use the services of independent guides like Laura (info@divewithlaura.com) or find her on Instagram: @laura.van.loon

on steroids. The underwater landscapes pass by like scenes in a movie. The wall transitions into an equally beautiful slope. The current eases a bit, allowing us to pause and take in the scenery: coral-covered rocks and shimmering schools of fish weaving through them. While the reefs on the island are in great condition, nowhere else are they as breathtaking as here. Our guide suddenly tries to catch our attention, pointing out into the blue. For a moment, I struggle to figure out what I’m seeing, but then the unmistakable sounds confirm it: a pod of dolphins is passing by at the edge of visibility. Smokey’s and Kathy’s Paradise are two dive sites where, after surfacing, you won’t be able to stop smiling!

Klein Curaçao

There is one more place worth mentioning. About 11 km south of Curaçao lies a small, uninhabited island that offers both relaxation on a white sandy beach with turquoise waters in a paradise setting and a close encounter with nature. It is a hatching ground for turtles, a habitat for water birds, and home to shipwrecks and an abandoned lighthouse.

Klein Curaçao also features five dive sites, three of which are accessible only in favorable weather conditions. One site I can particularly recommend is The Edge. Located on the northwestern side of the island, it is a wall that transitions into a stunning plateau. You can often encounter moray eels there, and the farther south you go, the higher the chance of spotting sea turtles, which tend to gather in the area. Organizing a dive on this small island requires some logistical effort. Since there is no dive center on Klein Curaçao, you need to bring all your equipment, including tanks and weights. However, the effort is well worth it.

This trip will undoubtedly be an unforgettable experience, whether you love being in the water or prefer relaxing under the palm on the beach.

What else beyond diving?

Curaçao is famous for its stunning beaches with turquoise waters and white sand. The capital, Willemstad, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Worth visiting:

Typical underwater landscapes of Curaçao

Playa Piscado

Colorful buildings in the Punda district – the characteristic pastel facades are a symbol of the island.

Queen Emma Floating Bridge – a pontoon bridge connecting the Punda and Otrobanda districts.

Fort Amsterdam – a historic fortress from the 17th century.

Floating Market – a market in the Punda district where Venezuelans sell fresh fruits, vegetables, and fish directly from boats.

Kura Hulanda Museum – tells the story of the slave trade and Afro-Caribbean culture.

Landhuizen – former plantations turned into museums and art galleries.

Chichi culture – hand-painted figurines scattered around the city (and even underwater) symbolizing the traditional Caribbean matron.

National Parks and Trekking:

Christoffel National Park – hiking trails, including one leading to the island's highest peak, Mount Christoffel (375 m above sea level).

Shete Boka National Park – spectacular cliffs and natural pools where ocean waves crash loudly.

Flamingo watching at Flamingo Habitat, best in the morning or evening when they are feeding

A day trip to the uninhabited island Klein Curaçao is a must. Turquoise waters, shipwrecks, a lighthouse, and pristine beaches create a paradise setting.

harvest festival, which takes place on Easter Monday. The main attraction is the parade of dance groups in traditional costumes through the streets of Willemstad

Colorful townhouses in the Punda district – one of the most postcard-worthy views of Curaçao

Not

just

SHARKS AND MANTA RAYS

Text and photos KRZYSZTOF BRUDKOWSKI

This was our dream destination — the Maldives — a breathtaking archipelago and island nation of the same name, nestled in the Indian Ocean. From conversations with fellow divers, we knew sharks and mantas were "guaranteed," AND THIS TIME, WE WERE COUNTING ON SEEING THE "LARGE CREATURES."

Ithought to myself, "You can't have everything; the reef can wait." But as it turned out, diving among the atolls isn’t just about encounters that have made these islands famous. There’s so much more – reefs and corals included – but we’ll get to that in a moment.

We found a safari boat and a central route almost on a whim. With minimal expectations, we were surprised by the atmosphere, the family-like approach to guests, and

especially the way meals were, well, "celebrated" is the right word! The boat, Princess Dhonkamana, is operated by Italians, and the fusion of local and Italian cuisine was mind-blowing – it was delizioso! But let’s get back to the main topic: diving. I can confidently say that diving in the Maldives is about more than just sharks (of various kinds), mantas, and rays.

Even the very first dive – a check dive – left us in awe. Just 20 minutes from Hulhumalé, we dove in and were greeted by an enormous number of rays, moray eels packed together in dens, and appearing practically every-

where. Want a selfie with a ray? Here’s your chance! The spot, aptly named "Fish Tank," is sure to impress anyone. Could it get any better? We wondered after that dive. The answer didn’t take long.

The next spot was called "Shark Tank," and the name says it all. I’ve never seen so many sharks and rays in my life. My dive log recorded sightings of whitetip reef sharks and grey reef sharks, but with a bit of luck, you might spot hammerheads or tiger sharks. We weren’t that lucky this time.

Subsequent dives brought more adrenaline and thrilling encounters with sharks, mantas (actually oceanic mobulas), and the joy of seeing these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat. I won’t detail every dive site because that’s not the goal of this article. However, I must mention a few that stood out, not just for the sharks but for other reasons too. One such place is "Fish Head," located in the central-eastern part of Ari Atoll. Due to strong currents, it’s recommended for experienced divers. Using a reef hook, we anchored ourselves to the reef and watched a parade of grey reef sharks. Meanwhile, the top of the thila (a type of reef formation) was teeming with clownfish and an incredible variety of marine life. If you’re lucky, you might even spot tuna hunting in the strong currents.

My personal favorite spot is probably "Emboodhoo Thila," located near the northeast of Emboodhoo Island within Ari Atoll. The reef starts at just 5 meters and descends

to about 35 meters. Turtles, schools of crevalle jacks, yellow snappers, moray eels, lionfish, and above all, scorpionfish and stonefish are the stars here. If you’ve never seen multiple scorpionfish lying together – or even stacked on top of each other – this is your chance. It’s a stunning site with an abundance of life and coral diversity, making it an excellent spot for underwater photographers, especially when visibility is good, and there’s no backscatter from particles in the water.

Diving in the Maldives isn’t just about thrilling shark encounters that might intimidate some divers. You’ll also find vibrant formations of soft and hard corals and schools of thousands of colorful reef fish. Sometimes, these formations are deeper than what we’re used to in the Red Sea,

so lighting may be necessary to fully appreciate them. Diving in channels or on the outer edges of atolls, with their steep walls and strong currents, brings encounters with reef sharks, nurse sharks, mantas, rays, Napoleon wrasse, schools of tuna, and barracudas. Some dives can be challenging, or even very demanding, so it’s essential to assess your diving experience and physical capabilities to fully enjoy the experience.

Relaxing on idyllic islands with crystal-clear sand under the blazing sun adds an extra layer of charm to a dream diving holiday.

I just got back, and I already miss it. Don’t you feel the same? :)

“Of Tears, Stars, and Breath”

KORNATI ISLANDS

"On the last day of Creation, God wished to crown His work, so from tears, stars, and breath, He created Kornati."

Bernard Shaw

Somewhere deep within me resides an incorrigible wanderer. Despite my time constraints, financial limitations, or family obligations, this restless nomad won't let me sit still at home for more than two weeks. As the pressure from this inner adventurer builds up, I give in. Reluctantly or not, I pack my bags and let myself be led on yet another journey.

This time, it's pulling me back to a place I've visited many times before: the island of Murter in Croatia. The idea sparks in March and grows stronger with each passing day. I mark a week in July on my calendar and gather a group of like-minded thrill-seekers to join me.

Given the amount of diving gear I plan to bring, I choose to travel by car. For those who prefer a more convenient journey, flying is a viable option, with all necessary equipment available for rent at the numerous well-equipped diving centers dotting the Croatian coastline.

The trip will last a week, allowing plenty of time for diving and exploring the local attractions.

The Island of Murter

Murter, located in northern Dalmatia, is home to four picturesque towns: Murter, Tisno, Betina, and Jezera. The first historical mention of the island appears in Natural History by Pliny the Elder. He describes the Roman settlement of Collentum, established in the 1st century AD at the base of Mount Gradina.

Text and photos ANIA PASZTA

View of the Kornati Islands

Remnants of the Roman presence include a villa and the ancient cistern known as Tamnica. Across the island, mysterious stone mounds hint at an even earlier settlement by the Liburnian tribe. By the 13th century, the village of Villa Magna had been established on the island.

The area is also renowned for its historic churches, each bearing the marks of centuries past.

Jezera, where we will be staying, is a charming, small town nestled around ACI marina. Its quaint streets are lined with taverns offering fantastic Balkan cuisine and refreshing cold beer. After a long journey, there’s nothing better than sitting at a streetside table, savoring a frosty golden lager while watching the sun set on the Adriatic horizon.

From the port in Jezera, for the next five days, we will set out on a comfortable boat to the surrounding waters, searching for the best dive spots. And there's plenty to see!

Kablinac

The first point on our diving map is Kablinac, famous for its picturesque rock formations creating corridors and tunnels, as well as the rich Adriatic fauna and flora. Among the lush, dark green meadows of Posidonia oceanica, also known as Neptune Grass, and fields of low, yellow-green Cymodocea nodosa grasses, you can encounter striped red mullets, rainbow wrasses, groupers, peacock wrasses, blennies, combers, brown wrasses, amberjacks, salema porgies, moray eels, conger eels, John Dorys, damselfish, peculiar flatfish, scorpionfish, and stonefish.

The seabed is home to numerous lazy sea cucumbers, beautiful multicolored starfish, and menacing bristle worms. The green meadows are accentuated by yellow or deep red clusters of sponges. The water temperature hovers around 20 degrees, making it warm, clear, and bright – perfect conditions for underwater photography.

Kukuljari

An underwater hill whose peak, a small rocky islet, protrudes above the water's surface. A lighthouse stands on the islet

to ensure no boat crashes into this rocky fragment during the night. Beneath the surface, the hill slopes down in terraces to a depth of 40 meters. We dive around it, descending first to the deepest point, where we encounter numerous red and beige gorgonians, resembling delicate lace fans protruding from the rock.

Near the bottom lies an old fishing net, long lost and now overgrown with algae and shells of various mollusks. As we gradually ascend, we come across lobsters, conger eels, and small moray eels living in the many crevices and beneath rocky overhangs. In burrows adorned with shells and colorful stones, curious and highly intelligent octopuses can be found hiding.

At shallower depths, we encounter schools of two-banded sea breams and damselfish. During the safety stop at 5 meters, we meet golden, sunlit salema porgies shimmering in the warm sunlight. The terrace walls are covered in peculiar polyps, anemones, and yellow sponges, among which tiny nudibranchs and hermit crabs – carrying their strange shells – can be spotted going about their mysterious business.

Jezera, drone view

Photo Robert Rosłaniec

Dalmatian

Moray

Here, for the first time, I was able to see the eggs of a small-spotted catshark. These are tough, almond-shaped membranes attached to the rock. When illuminated with a flashlight, you can see the tiny bodies of unhatched baby sharks inside. Last year, there was also a beautiful amphora lying on one of the terraces, overgrown with colorful growths and shells. Unfortunately, someone recently broke it, and now only fragments of pottery remain to be seen 

Kaprije

Kaprije is a small but inhabited island in the Šibenik archipelago. The boat anchors right by the shore. We descend and swim over a gentle plateau covered in green seagrass until we reach a steeply sloping wall. Here, we dive deeper, descending along the wall to a depth of 18–20 meters. After a moment, a large grotto opens before us, where, under the rock overhang, we can admire multicolored polyps, sponges, gorgonians, and bryozoans. Shrimp, snails, and crabs make their homes among them, while schools of fish swirl around. Illuminating the scene with a flashlight brings a burst of vibrant colors to life.

Continuing along the vertical wall, under smaller overhangs, we encounter large octopuses, conger eels, moray eels, and lobsters. On the deeper section of the wall, enor-

mous beige gorgonians stretch out their fan-like forms. As we ascend and return to the plateau, we let the frequent gentle current here carry us in the desired direction. You can simply hover and let the water carry you, watching the landscapes pass by.

In the shallows, schools of two-banded sea breams –startled by our earlier visit to the grotto – swirl around us, playing in the bubbles of air seeping from the porous rock beneath us. This is the same air we exhaled in the grotto 20 minutes earlier! We encountered our own breath 

Mala Mare

The captain steers the boat toward a small rock with a signal light near the island of Kakan. Along the way, a pod of dolphins accompanies us. Perhaps we'll be lucky enough to encounter them underwater? The site we’re heading to is called Mala Mare.

Here, at depths ranging from 20 to 40 meters, lies an irregular, undercut rocky wall densely covered with gorgonians, anemones, and colorful sponges. Lobsters and moray eels make their homes here, while large schools of two-banded sea breams and salema porgies swim in the open water. Occasionally, you might even spot sizable tuna passing through.

Kablinac and Mala Mare

Plavi Jadran

Kaprije and Kukuljari

Plavi Jadran wreck

It is one of my favorite dive spots in the area – the wreck of the Plavi Jadran, a transport ship that sank in 2018 after colliding with a Jadrolinija ferry.

The wreck lies at a depth accessible to all divers, including OWD-certified ones. Its deck is at 12 meters, while the sandy seabed, covered with yellow seagrass, reaches 18 meters. The ship settled upright on its keel, creating a fantastic diving site and an artificial reef, now home to a variety of marine life.

Slowly, the wreck is being overgrown by sponges, anemones, and polyps. Hidden in its nooks are moray eels and conger eels, while large, red scorpionfish lounge on the deck. Around the wreck, colorful schools of striped red mullet shimmer in the sunlight.

The shallow depth allows ample sunlight to illuminate the wreck, making it an excellent subject for underwater photography. Sunbeams dance with the fish among the deck’s features, continuously creating new, captivating frames. The windows and portholes still hold their glass, now clouded with vibrant growths of algae, forming breathtakingly abstract patterns.

One detail catches my eye – a round spotlight whose upper edge is claimed by long, beige strands of algae. Inside, behind the glass, the bulb still sits intact.

It looks like an eye.

Staring at me…

This wreck is staring at me!

If it were to blink... 

Plić Sestre

Plić Sestre consists of two gentle underwater hills covered with seagrasses, rising up almost to the surface. Here, we enjoy a calm, shallow dive, focusing on exploring the seabed covered in sponges and grass.

The irregular, white rocks, sculpted by waves and currents, form shallow ravines, tunnels, and overhangs that shelter various small, oddly shaped creatures. A flashlight comes in handy here – turning it on reveals the astonishingly colorful underwater world. Like a dream of a mad impressionist.

Żirje

For the past two days, the Jugo wind, though weakening, continues to make its presence felt. However, the boat captain gives the green light to set sail. The sea remains restless, and the waves force us to anchor in a spot well-sheltered from the wind. In such weather, the biggest challenge will be getting back onto the boat after the dive.

Plavi Jadran

During the dive near the large island of Žirje, which protects us from the wind, we admire beautiful schools of fish floating above green fields of seagrass and swimming alongside steep rocky walls. We search for octopus' dens, look for the snouts of small moray eels, and track hermit crabs. The surface rocking doesn’t reach greater depths, but while hanging at the safety stop at 5 meters, we begin to feel a gentle sway.

I love this feeling. The sea plays with me, gently rocking as if trying to lull me to sleep. I remain motionless and allow myself to be carried away by the pleasure of it.

Koromašna

This is a fantastic spot for night diving. The dive will be done from shore, starting at the small Koromašna beach near Jezera.

Night diving has its undeniable charm. At night, creatures emerge from their hiding places that we wouldn’t encounter during the day, while fish active in daylight hover over the seabed, sleeping and allowing us to observe them up close. Of course, flashlights are essential for such a dive. Each participant must have their own flashlight and, ideally, a backup one just in case.

Right at the beginning of the dive, we come across a hunting octopus, completely indifferent to the unexpected audience. Just above our heads, a large flying fish glides by, spreading its wings wide. It’s stunning! On the seabed, be-

tween the rocks, strangely colored starfish wander about. Yes, wander – moving with the help of hundreds of tiny protrusions extending from the underside of their five-armed bodies. From beneath the rocks, thin, thread-like brownblack tentacles, tipped with tiny projections shaped like ginkgo leaves, emerge. When illuminated by the flashlight, they slowly retreat to the safety of their hideout.

All these strange shapes and colors of nocturnal creatures resemble beings from another world. The impression is heightened by the beams of our flashlights, slicing through the underwater darkness in narrow streams. Between the black spines of sea urchins, bright points twinkle, a school of small cuttlefish passes by in the water column, and bizarre creatures with regular fluorescent patterns on their chitin-like shells feed on the rocks. I have no idea what they might be.

There’s no need to dive deep at night, so we delightfully splash around for a good hour, amazed by one new oddity after another that our flashlights pull from the darkness.

Junkers JU87 STUKA

The wreck of the Junkers JU87 STUKA airplane was discovered relatively recently, in 2014, in the waters off the coast of the small island of Žirje. It has since been placed under conservation protection and, as a licensed wreck, is now accessible for recreational diving.

Junkers JU87 STUKA

Junkers

Junkers JU87 STUKA

Our boat approaches a red buoy floating on the water. This is our entry point, and we begin our descent along the line that leads from the buoy to the wreck. Soon, a winged shape starts to emerge from the distance. As we descend further, at about 20 meters, the airplane becomes fully visible in all its glory. Its nose is pointed toward the island, resting at a depth of 32 meters, while the tail lies deeper, at about 36 meters. We circle the wreck, examining its remarkably preserved features.

Wrecks tell their own stories. This one takes me back to the time of World War II, when aerial battles raged over the Croatian coastline. During one such battle, three Junkers JU87 STUKA bombers, piloted by members of an Italian squadron, came under heavy fire. Only one of them survived the encounter. The second was shot down, and the third, heavily damaged, crash-landed near the island of Žirje. It settled on the surface of the sea before sinking. It is believed that the crew managed to exit the plane and swim to the island.

Seventy years later, the wreck was discovered by divers. It immediately became a sensation, as only two other aircraft of this type have survived intact and are currently displayed in museums in the United States and the United Kingdom.

The plane now rests on the seabed at a depth of 30 meters, appearing as though it’s ready to take off once again. Only the engine – resembling a relic straight out of a steampunk novel – lies separately on the seabed, not far from the wreck.

RT Ljuta

This is a shallow area near the prominent cape of the island of Žirje. After descending, we swim over a grass-covered plateau to a steeply sloping wall.

Here, we dive deeper, reaching around 20 meters, where we discover a large collection of remnants of ancient amphorae and ceramics. It’s likely that a wooden vessel sank here long ago. No trace of the ship remains, but its cargo still lies on the seabed, delighting the eye with intriguing shapes adorned by the sea with artistic frescoes. Among the flat tiles, I find a large hollow cylinder with remnants of a handle. The neck of an amphora! When you look at such a shard from above, it appears gray, covered in sand and dust. However, if you dare to carefully lift it and briefly turn it over, it reveals its other, beautiful nature. On the underside, there are vibrant colors – reds, blues, purples, yellows, and greens – forming incredible patterns. But remember: gently. After viewing, you must place the shard back in its original position just as delicately. The same applies to underwater stones. See for yourself 

There are a few more of these "dumping sites" in this area, making it an excellent location for those interested in archaeology and history.

We continue our dive, gradually ascending along the wall. Octopuses, crustaceans, scorpionfish, and crabs inhabit this area. Thousands of fish swarm in the open water. Around 10 m, the wall transitions back into a gentle, grassy plateau.

Amphora

However, diving trips are not just about being underwater. When visiting other countries, it’s worth exploring their culture, art, tasting the local cuisine, and getting to know the people who live there. Of course, you can also take some time to relax on the beach, enjoy a carefree swim in the sea, or unwind with a good book. If your time is limited to the afternoons after diving, I suggest exploring the island and nearby towns. If you have more time and access to a car, consider taking a one-hour drive to Trogir.

Jezera

The town is nestled among hills that gently slope down toward a tranquil bay where the port serves as a harbor for yachts, motorboats, and fishing vessels. Around the port, you’ll find shops selling handmade crafts and souvenirs, as well as numerous restaurants offering Mediterranean cuisine.

Traditional dishes you must try include brudet – a Croatian fish stew, peka – lamb or beef roasted in a clay or castiron pot with vegetables, hobotnica ispod peke – roasted octopus, pašticada – braised meat in a tomato-based sauce, and skradinski rižot – a risotto-like dish cooked in a rich meat and vegetable broth. For dessert, I recommend fritule, small fried pastries sprinkled with powdered sugar or drizzled with honey.

Jezera boasts two beaches: Gušćica, a beautiful but not very comfortable rocky beach for sunbathing, and Lovišća, a gravel beach. This smallest town on Murter has been known since the 13th century and features numerous sacred art monuments, including the picturesque Gospe od Zdravlja church from 1720.

The surrounding hills are lush with Mediterranean vegetation, pine trees, and olive groves. White gravel paths meander through the hills, offering stunning views and inviting you to enjoy a peaceful evening walk.

Every September, the town hosts the Big Game Fishing competition, where participants compete to catch the larg-

est tuna. At the end of the event, you can enjoy a piece of freshly grilled fish. Delicious!

Tisno

In the late afternoon, just before sunset, you can take a peaceful walk along the seashore to Tisno.

A stunning gravel path, a few kilometers long and lit by lanterns in the evening, leads you from Jezera to the neighboring town. On one side, you’ll find sharp, forest-covered cliffs; on the other, a rocky seashore. Windswept white boulders jut into the bay, creating a beautifully irregular coastline. In the water, you can spot spiky sea urchins, small crabs, and colorful fish.

Tisno is a picturesque town situated on both sides of the strait that separates the island of Murter from the mainland. A drawbridge connects the two, which is raised twice a day. The first records of the town date back to the 15th century. Tisno is characterized by its low, stone architecture and a long waterfront with a harbor for boats. Near the port, there are numerous taverns, cafes, and ice cream parlors. You can also buy homemade wine and olive oil directly from local producers.

Trogir

In the afternoon, if you have a car, you can take a trip south of the island to the town of Trogir, which is about an hour’s drive along a beautiful coastal road.

This port city is connected to a small island by a bridge, where its oldest part is located. The compact medieval architecture, tall stone houses, and narrow winding streets lined with stone slabs make you feel like you’ve stepped into a time capsule, transporting you to ancient centuries. Trogir’s history dates back to the 3rd century BC.

Hidden between the stone buildings are small courtyards that resemble wells, usually occupied by tables and umbrellas from nearby restaurants. The grayness of the stone is softened by lush vine tendrils and bougainvillea flowers.

Golden Gorgonian Road to Tisno

It’s worth starting your walk at the Land Gate and exploring the 12th-century Cathedral of St. Lawrence with its 16th-century bell tower, and finishing your stroll along the wide seaside promenade right next to the 15th-century Kamerlengo Castle. In summer, the crowds of tourists can be overwhelming, so it’s better to plan your visit for May/June or even September.

Sometimes, the weather plans a break for us from diving. Jugo – a characteristic warm wind from the southeast over the Adriatic – often brings storms and rain. On the sea, this means stronger waves and more difficult diving conditions for us. Sometimes, it even prevents boats from leaving the calm port. On such days, it’s worth taking a trip inland to explore places in Dalmatia that aren’t as well-known on the tourist map of Croatia as those along the coast.

Bribirska Glavica

The first stop on our trip is the archaeological site of Bribirska Glavica, located at an altitude of 300 meters above sea level. In my opinion, this place, referred to by archaeologists as the Croatian Troy, is one of the most beautiful archaeological sites in the world, right after Zama – the Yucatan's

City of Dawn. From the flat hilltop overlooking the surrounding area, there are magnificent views of the villages, fields, meadows, and distant mountains stretching below. The summit of the hill spans an area of 72,000 square meters, where you can see remains dating from prehistoric times, through antiquity, and up to the late Middle Ages. Previously known as Varvaria, the name Bribir first appeared in the 10th century AD.

Driving up a gravel road, we park the car right by the massive walls. Each site is described and equipped with a QR code that, when scanned, allows you to view digital reconstructions of the structures we are exploring. Excavations began here in 1908 and are ongoing to this day.

The first settlement in this location was established during the Stone Age. As far as the eye can see, there are remnants of the buildings of an expansive city surrounded by megalithic walls dating back to 1500 BC. This was the center of the Liburnian state – Varvaria. Right at the entrance, we encounter a nymphaeum – a system of urban cisterns from the 1st and 2nd centuries. Here and there, among the remains of the walls, we find traces of beautiful mosaic floors.

The Author with a Ban

Murter Author

Bribirska Glavica

Further on, there is the city gate, the remains of a medieval tower, an old Croatian necropolis with 128 graves, the remnants of a Roman Forum and an ancient temple, as well as the remains of a massive three-nave Basilica of St. Mary from the 12th century. At the highest point of the hill, next to the church, there is an ancient crypt with two stone sarcophagi and the foundations of an 11th-century Croatian church, which was built in a hexalobate (six-lobed) plan. The current church is surrounded by a small Orthodox cemetery.

At the end of the tour, we can see the remains of the manor of Ban Paul I, who was Croatia's first sole ruler. Here, after scanning a code, Ban Paul I himself appears, standing against the backdrop of the landscape stretching below. I wonder if I can persuade him to take a photo with me… I ask my friend to position me correctly since, without looking through the phone, I can’t see the Ban. Moments later, we’re both admiring my photo with the spirit of the medieval nobleman.

Magic!

Konoba Kod Pere

Hungry and weary from the growing heat, we stop at the roadside eatery Kod Pere. They serve delicious local burgers that take up the entire plate, as well as roasted pig straight from the oven and wonderfully cold Pan beer.

This isn’t a spot frequented by tourists. All the surrounding tables are occupied by local diners. Prices are much lower here than in the touristy areas along the coast. We pay one-third of the “normal” price for our meal.

Next to the eatery, on the other side of the road, there’s a stone bowling lane and a pétanque court. We set up wooden pins and try our hand at knocking them down with a heavy stone ball. Not so easy!

Kninska Tvrđava

This is the second-largest fortress of its kind in Europe. Its 2 km-long walls, reaching heights of 20 meters, enclose an area made up of five parts: Donji Grad, Sredniji Grad, Gornji Grad, Kaštel Knin, and Južni Grad. From the fortress walls, there’s a stunning view of the city below and the Dinara Mountains, the highest peaks in Croatia.

The individual buildings now house an archaeological museum, an art gallery, and a restaurant. The Spas Hill, where the fortress is located, has been inhabited since the Stone Age. In the Middle Ages, under the rule of Hungary's Árpád dynasty, Knin was the capital of the Croatian state.

Plan at least two hours for the visit.

Cetina Vrilo – The Eye of the Earth

Since we’re already so close, we can make a quick trip to another exceptionally picturesque spot. Located near the border with Bosnia, at the foot of the highest peak of the Dinaric Alps, is the enchanting and mysterious Cetina Vrilo – the source of the Cetina River. This place is best known from aerial photos, where it looks like a beautiful blue eye gaz-

ing up at the clouds. It’s also called the Dragon’s Eye or the Earth’s Eye.

Its depth is estimated at 115 meters, and the crystal-clear water has a temperature of 4°C. Not exactly inviting for a swim  Since 1971, this spot has been designated as a hydrogeological natural monument.

My travels aren’t just about discovering picturesque landscapes and rich history, but also about moments of relaxation with friends, savoring local cuisine, and enjoying every moment. The island of Murter, with its charming towns, crystal-clear sea, and warm climate, is a perfect place to unwind and disconnect from everyday life. I’ll leave here not just with souvenirs and photos but also with wonderful memories. For me, Croatia has something magical about it – it’s a place I’ll always carry in my heart and one I’ll gladly return to again and again.

Knin Fortress

ELPHINSTONE REEF

ACCORDING TO VARIOUS GUIDES, RANKINGS, AND REVIEWS, ELPHINSTONE REEF RANKS AMONG THE TOP TEN DIVING SPOTS IN THE WORLD!

BUT IS IT EASY TO GET THERE? WHAT DOES IT OFFER, AND IS IT SUITABLE FOR ALL DIVERS?

READ ON TO FIND THE ANSWERS TO THESE QUESTIONS AND MY PERSONAL TAKE ON THIS LEGENDARY REEF.

Elphinstone, locally known as Sha’ab Abu Hamra, is about seven nautical miles from the popular town of Marsa Alam in Egypt. Located in open water, it is accessible only by boat. For RIBs (large inflatable boats with powerful engines), the journey from shore takes about 20 minutes. For liveaboard safari boats, Elphinstone is a must-visit stop, which often makes it quite crowded. Since the reef isn’t sheltered by a bay, waves and currents here can be strong depending on weather conditions.

The reef is 375 meters long, with depths exceeding 100 meters. It’s divided into two plateaus—northern and southern. The steep sides of the reef are covered in a vibrant mix of soft and hard corals, while caves, crevices, and rock formations are home to an astonishing array of marine flora and fauna. At a depth of 52–65 meters lies "the Arch" – a tunnel-shaped arch you can swim through. According to legend, an Egyptian pharaoh is buried there.

Text TOMEK KULCZYŃSKI

Photo Łukasz Metrycki

Photo Łukasz Metrycki

Photo Tomek Kulczyński

Photo Tomek Kulczyński

As I mentioned, Elphinstone is ranked among the top ten diving spots worldwide. The internet is full of photos, videos, reports, and articles about it. Whenever you search for diving trips or excursions in Egypt, this place pops up repeatedly. But what makes it so special?

In my opinion, it’s the chance to encounter a wide variety of marine life in one place, and so close to the shore. Usually, to see hammerhead sharks or whale sharks, you’d need to travel to a distant, exotic corner of the world or spend a week on a liveaboard. Elphinstone offers that opportunity just 20 minutes from land! The main attraction is the sharks, which I was also hoping to see. Here, you might encounter species like hammerheads or whitetip sharks, as well as turtles, Napoleon wrasse, barracudas, manta rays, and even whale sharks.

However, as in life, not everything that glitters is gold. To book a dive at Elphinstone, you need at least an advanced certification and 50 logged dives. These requirements are strictly enforced by local dive centers. What surprised me was the restriction on using nitrox (a gas mixture with more oxygen than the standard 21%); only air was allowed where I dived.

Due to its open-sea location, those prone to seasickness may feel it here. Weather conditions play a huge role – diving in calm seas is a completely different experience from battling rough waves.

The strong currents at the reef mean dives typically start at around 30 meters, where the current is weaker. This can be challenging, as currents may prevent you from circling the reef or may even sweep you away. Dives usually begin early in the morning, around 6 AM, which might be tough for late risers. Additionally, the reef’s popularity often makes it crowded both on the surface and underwater.

Elphinstone Reef is a demanding dive site. Strong currents and deep depths make it challenging for single-tank divers, as gas supplies and no-decompression limits can become issues. I did two dives there in one day, and I wouldn’t do it again – primarily because my no-deco time for the second dive was so short.

It’s worth remembering that sharks, barracudas, or turtles may not always be present when you visit the reef. During my dives, I encountered two small reef sharks but was lucky to spot a massive Napoleon wrasse and a turtle.

Photo Tomek Kulczyński

The next morning, I was supposed to dive again, but I decided to sleep in – and I missed hammerhead sharks!

I consider Elphinstone Reef an iconic site, offering the chance to encounter diverse marine life. Does it deserve a spot in the top ten dive sites in the world? That depends on individual preferences. One thing is certain – it’s a challenging site for experienced divers that requires a bit of luck with both weather conditions and marine life encounters.

Photo Łukasz Metrycki

Photo Łukasz Metrycki

Photo Łukasz Metrycki

Do dolphins have their own personality?

Text and photos JAKUB BANASIAK

Imagine you are diving near a local reef, commonly referred to as a dolphin house. You are lucky; a group of dolphins has just appeared. Two of them seem particularly interested in you. They boldly approach and circle around you several times, coming closer with each pass. Others, however, appear more reserved and shyer. You recognize that all of them are bottlenose dolphins. The same species, the same pod, and the same environment, yet their behaviors are entirely different. Could it also mean that they have entirely different personalities?

Can animals possess a personality? Are the tools used to measure human personality suitable for the animal world? For humans, the most commonly used psychological tool to measure personality is the NEO-FFI Personality Inventory by Paul Costa and Robert McCrae (commonly referred to as the Big Five). This model consists of five factors, the English equivalents of which create the acronym O.C.E.A.N.:

Openness: Measures how open someone is to new experiences and how imaginative and curious they are. Conscientiousness: Assesses reliability and organization. Extraversion: Refers to how friendly and outgoing a person is. This trait characterizes individuals who are sociable and energetic in their interactions with others.

Agreeableness: Refers to how kind and helpful someone is. People who score high in this area tend to be more affectionate, trustworthy, and empathetic.

Neuroticism: Refers to how anxious, unpredictable, or unstable someone is. It is often associated with negative emotions, such as anxiety, mood swings, irritability, or sadness.

Bottlenose dolphin from Eilat

Many researchers use these five factors as a starting point for measuring animal personality. But what exactly is "animal personality"?

According to professor Tadeusz Kaleta, a distinguished zoologist and animal behavior specialist, animal personality can be defined as the individual response patterns of a given species, which differ between individuals. Importantly, these individual behavioral tendencies are stable in time and across different contexts. For example, an animal might exhibit significant aggressiveness both while obtaining food and during mating season.

Can this approach to animal personality be applied to dolphins? Evidence can be found in a study published in Communications Biology, where Taylor Evans and Janet Mann from the Shark Bay Dolphin Project in Australia demonstrated that bottlenose dolphins exhibit stable behavioral traits that persist for decades. Taylor Evans, a doctoral researcher and the study's lead author, states: "These personalities begin to show early on in the calf period and last through old age, despite all the changes dolphins face in their long lives."

Using 32 years of longitudinal data on 179 dolphins from Shark Bay, researchers showed that several measures of social behavior, such as the number of associates, time spent alone, and time spent in large groups, remained stable from infancy through adulthood. Some dolphins were consistent loners, while others were highly sociable, maintaining these patterns throughout their lives. This is comparable to the introverted-extroverted axis in human personality.

Fascinating observations were also made by Bruno Díaz López, who studied bottlenose dolphins in Italy’s Gulf of Aranci between 2004 and 2011. He filmed the reactions of 24 dolphins to two new and potentially threatening stimuli:

the presence of a diver and the activation of an underwater alarm designed to deter dolphins from fishing nets. He found that some dolphins were consistently bold, willingly approaching both the unusual device emitting an unpleasant sound and the unfamiliar person. Others were consistently shy, keeping an average distance of several meters, while some displayed intermediate behavior, sometimes approaching and other times avoiding the stimuli.

Research on various animal groups and species has revealed that the most significant personality traits (dimensions), those showing continuous variation between extreme values, are as follows:

1. Shyness-Boldness: Generally, refers to an individual’s propensity for risk-taking, such as in response to predators. This dimension appears to be widely represented across the animal kingdom and is one of the fundamental measures of personality.

2. Exploration-Avoidance: Measures reactions to novelty, such as new objects or unfamiliar foods.

3. Activity: Indicates whether an individual consistently maintains a certain level of motor activity in its familiar environment.

4. Aggressiveness: Assessed in interactions with other members of the species, such as during competition for food or territory defense.

5. Sociability: Refers to non-aggressive interactions with other members of the species and evaluates the extent to which an animal is drawn to the presence of others. There is compelling evidence that stable, individual behavioral differences – indicating unique personalities, also referred to as behavioral types or coping strategies – are present across the animal kingdom, from mollusks to mam-

Bottlenose dolphin from Aqualand

mals. An individual’s personality affects how it copes with challenges, responds to stressors, selects partners, and ultimately influences its reproductive success and survival.

When studying personality, the time perspective is crucial. In the case of dolphins, only a few individuals and populations have been studied over a sufficiently long period. Besides the aforementioned studies in Shark Bay, Australia, and earlier observations in the Gulf of Aranci, Sardinia, the Sarasota Dolphin Research Program (SDRP) in the United States deserves mention.

Since the 1970s, SDRP researchers have conducted intensive observations and studies of bottlenose dolphins inhabiting the waters around Sarasota, Florida. These studies revealed that dolphin personalities are as complex as those of terrestrial mammals like chimpanzees or even humans. Dolphins show different types of temperament, such as courage, curiosity, risk-taking tendency.

For example, researchers observed that some dolphins regularly initiate group play, involving younger dolphins in chases or underwater "tag." Others prefer calmer activities, such as exploring the seabed for food. Interestingly, dolphins with bolder and more curious personalities were more likely to engage in interactions with humans or even other animal species.

The Sarasota studies highlight the shy-bold axis as one of the most distinctive, heritable, and stable sources of behavioral variation. This axis resembles the introversion-extroversion spectrum in humans. Animals can be truly shy or bold but may also fall anywhere along the spectrum between these extremes. This behavioral axis is probably the most significant in determining how animals respond

to environmental changes. By analyzing dolphins' blood, blubber, fecal, and urine samples, SDRP biologists found that individuals differing in behaviors along the shy-bold axis also varied in their endocrine responses, such as cortisol release, to stressors. SDRP examines dolphins' behavioral reactions to novel sounds through acoustic playback experiments, their responses to stressful events like capture, and their hormonal reactions to the same stressors.

Most personality studies on dolphins focus on bottlenose dolphins. But what about other species? Do Atlantic spotted dolphins (Stenella frontalis) also exhibit different personalities? Research conducted by Nathan Skrzypczak and his collaborators as part of the Wild Dolphin Project (WDP) provides fascinating answers to this question. Their findings reveal diverse personality traits among young Atlantic spotted dolphins and links between boldness and neophilia, which refers to curiosity about novel phenomena.

The study, published in 2016, analyzed the behaviors of 19 young Atlantic spotted dolphins from the Bahamas. Researchers examined three main traits: boldness, sociability, and curiosity towards novelty (neophilia). Boldness was measured based on the time young dolphins spent away from their mothers, sociability through interactions with other dolphins, and curiosity towards humans by the time spent near them.

The analysis was based on video recordings documenting the dolphins' behaviors in their natural environment. For each individual, a personality phenotype was created and compared to the rest of the population. The results showed significant individual variation across all traits, indicating the existence of unique personalities among these mammals.

Teeth – aggression

One key finding was a moderately strong correlation between boldness and curiosity towards humans. Dolphins that spent more time away from their mothers were more likely to approach researchers. Interestingly, similar correlations have been observed in other species, such as chimpanzees and macaques.

However, no link was found between boldness and sociability. Although dolphins are a social species, risk-taking tendencies did not influence their interactions with other group members.

The study paid special attention to neophilia, or the tendency to explore new objects and situations. The WDP project used bidirectional communication interfaces to study interactions between dolphins and humans. Six young females showed a clear interest for these devices. These dolphins, referred to as neophiliac juvenile dolphins (NJDs), were also bolder than their peers.

Meanwhile, a study published by a team of researchers led by F. Blake Morton, focusing on bottlenose dolphins in captivity, indicates that dolphins possess complex personality structures resembling not only traits of other marine mammals but also primates, such as chimpanzees or humans. The research project began in 2012, and its findings were published in 2021 in the Journal of Comparative Psychology. The team included Dr. Morton, Dr. Lauren Robinson from the University of Veterinary Medicine Vienna and Georgia State University, Ms. Sabrina Brando from Animal Concepts, and Dr. Alexander Weiss from the University of Edinburgh.

The study was conducted on 134 dolphins from various facilities across eight countries, including Mexico, France, the United States, Curaçao, the Netherlands, Sweden, the

Bahamas, and the Cayman Islands. For 49 dolphins, personality was assessed using a 42-item questionnaire, while for 85 dolphins, an extended version with seven additional items was used.

After analyzing the data, the identified dolphin traits were divided into four main domains: openness (propensity for activity and environmental exploration), disagreeableness (tendency towards aggression, jealousy, stubbornness, and despotism), sociability (friendly attitude towards other dolphins and humans), and "directedness," characterized by behavioral consistency, boldness, and low emotional arousal (resembling high conscientiousness and low neuroticism).

Interestingly, unlike chimpanzees or gorillas, the domain of "dominance" did not emerge among the dolphins that were studied. Neither dolphins nor human social groups are characterized by strong hierarchies, unlike chimpanzees, where dominance is strongly emphasized.

The researchers also found no evidence of a "neuroticism" domain among dolphins, similar to findings in California sea lions, mountain gorillas, and bonobos. Neuroticism appears more commonly in species living in unpredictable environments, but the data on dolphins, which evolved in relatively unpredictable habitats, contradict this idea.

Although previous studies on other animals suggest that the domain of "conscientiousness" evolved in species that regularly engage in behaviors requiring social attention, dolphins do not exhibit this trait. Conscientiousness was not observed among dolphins, despite their numerous and sophisticated social behaviors (e.g., learning to use tools through observation).

Spotted dolphins

What do we know about personalities of the largest dolphins and orcas? According to a study published in 2018, orcas exhibit personality traits similar to those of humans and chimpanzees, such as playfulness, cheerfulness, and emotional expression. Researchers from Spain analyzed the personality traits of 24 orcas in captivity at Sea World Orlando, Sea World San Diego, and Loro Parque zoo in Tenerife, Spain, which runs an orca program in collaboration with Sea World. Six of the orcas were captured from the wild, while the rest were born in captivity.

Trainers and other staff members who closely worked with the orcas completed surveys in which each animal was assessed across 38 personality traits, including cheerfulness, independence, determination, courage, sensitivity, and protectiveness. These traits were then analyzed and compared with previous studies on the same personality traits in chimpanzees and humans.

The study utilized the widely used personality measure known as the Big Five model, which evaluates five dimensions of personality.

Researchers found that the orcas' personality traits were similar to those of humans and chimpanzees, with a closer resemblance to chimpanzees. Orcas showed similarities to chimpanzees and humans in terms of extraversion (e.g., playful, gregarious, and sociable). Orcas and chimpanzees also shared a combination of traits characteristic of conscientiousness (e.g., constant, stubborn, and protective) and agreeableness (e.g., patient, peaceable, and not bullying), along with certain traits associated with dominance.

Is attributing "human" personality traits to animals an evident case of anthropomorphism? Are these few studies sufficient to discuss personality? In dolphins, it is difficult to observe behaviors that are stable over time, especially in the context of life in the wild and the associated research challenges. Yet, behavioral stability is a fundamental criterion for determining whether these are truly personality traits. Robert Pitman, a marine ecologist at the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA),

reminds us that we must avoid attributing feelings or intentions to animals, as each species has its own perspective and traits that help ensure its survival.

On the other hand, studies on dolphins in captivity, while easier to conduct, are fraught with a series of other challenges, including methodological errors. Returning to the example of orcas, these highly complex marine mammals, as shown by Lori Marino’s research published in 2020, demonstrate poor adaptability to captivity. A human-controlled environment leads to the proliferation of abnormal behaviors in captivity, including changes in vocalizations, learning, pod structure, and aggressive interactions. Other unnatural behaviors related to stress, such as "learned helplessness," have also been observed. The creation of artificial groups in captivity is also responsible for numerous behavioral changes. Orcas living in the wild have sophisticated social lives and long maternal relationships. In captivity, social groups are artificially formed from individuals originating from different locations. Members of the same species with low compatibility (from different locations, operating with different dialects) show increased aggressive behaviors (biting, chasing, and aggressive vocalizations) toward one another. The physical confinement of space in aquariums and marine parks also creates unnatural situations where these animals cannot escape from an aggressor or source of stress, leading to an increase in inter-individual aggression. As shown by Kremers' study from 2012, the artificial formation of "pods" in marine parks significantly affects the communication behaviors of captive orcas. For example, captive orcas have developed distinct aggressive vocalizations not observed in the wild.

Finally, orcas are highly sensitive to stressors in captivity. This stress is a cause of many abnormal behaviors. Unnatural social conditions, poor well-being, boredom, and lack of control lead to stereotypies, such as compulsive swimming around the pool, self-harm (biting metal bars), and slamming their heads into enclosure walls. If we were to consider

Orca from Loro Parque

Orcas from Loro Parque

all these behaviors as indicators of specific personality traits, the conclusions could be very misleading!

Understanding the personality structure of dolphins has immense practical potential. It could contribute to the development of more effective strategies for protecting these mammals in their natural environment and improving their welfare in captivity. Knowledge of personality traits can aid in selecting appropriate breeding pairs to minimize stress and promote animal welfare. Dolphins with higher levels of openness may adapt better to new environments after being reintroduced into natural habitats.

As Professor Kaleta emphasizes, it is extremely important to understand the significance of knowledge about the personalities of individual animals for their well-being. Wherever we keep them and however we use them, we must remember that animals are not uniform copies of each other. Due to their different personalities, they may also have varied needs and expectations regarding the environment we provide them.

But what is the situation now? Increasingly, voices of criticism are emerging against research conducted on captive dolphins, particularly studies aimed at optimizing the management of these animals in marine parks. Does this type of science truly serve the dolphins, or does it primarily support the interests of marine park owners?

When scientists attempt to assess personality traits in dolphins, such as sociability, dominance, or exploration tendencies, with the goal of better matching schedules and environments in marine parks to the individual needs of these animals, it does indeed sound promising. However, the ultimate outcome of such research is often not the improvement of dolphin welfare but rather the optimization of their ability to participate in shows or interactions with humans.

Dr. Naomi Rose, a marine mammal researcher and dolphin conservation activist, highlights that adjusting the captive environment to the personality of a dolphin is merely a facade. These studies primarily serve to minimize problems for marine park managers rather than genuinely improving the animal’s life. In other words, business is the primary beneficiary of this research, not the dolphins themselves.

The fact that dolphins exhibit high levels of intelligence is emphasized by scientists like Dr. Lori Marino, who conducted studies on dolphin brains. According to her, the structure and size of dolphin brains suggest that these animals have the capacity for introspection, complex thinking, and empathy. "Keeping such a highly developed being in captivity is equivalent to locking a human being in a small room for their entire life," said Marino in one interview.

Many marine parks worldwide use the results of research on dolphin personalities to optimize show schedules and interactions with tourists. For example, a common practice in marine parks is to create a rotating system based on behavioral and personality analysis of dolphins to avoid overworking certain individuals. While

this may seem like a positive step, the real beneficiary is the institution, which reduces behavioral problems while maximizing profits.

Meanwhile, dolphins continue to suffer from limited space, unnatural daily rhythms, and chronic stress associated with performing in front of an audience and the very conditions of captivity. As Dr. Ingrid Visser, a researcher on orcas and an activist, points out, "Research on animal personalities in captivity does not change the fact that their natural needs remain unmet.”

Research on dolphin personalities, while potentially interesting from a scientific standpoint, raises serious ethical questions. Do we have the right to use the knowledge gained to better manage animals in captivity, rather than striving for their protection and preservation in their natural habitats? If we acknowledge that dolphins are highly developed beings, are we not obligated to respect their needs and freedom?

Many scientists, ethicists, and activists argue that the only solution to this dilemma is to cease keeping dolphins in captivity. Research should be conducted in their natural environment, where they can fully fulfill their needs and capabilities. Only in this way can science truly serve the animals, rather than solely human interests.

Bottlenose dolphins

A piece of fire coral in a dolphin’s mouth

Bonjour CAVES

Text

and photos PRZEMYSŁAW ZYBER

And the time has come for France

How did it happen that I hadn’t been there yet? During almost every conversation with cave divers, I realized that I had to go there eventually.

After all, it’s the Mecca of cave diving in Europe.

The end of September revealed a long-awaited window in my schedule. I had to seize the opportunity.

It was time to brush up on my high school French and head to France.

We were looking at a 1500 km journey. The amount of gear we had to bring ruled out air travel, (technical diving requires a large amount of gases, cylinders, rebreathers, lime…), and on top of that, my substantial photography gear. There was only one option: rent a van and hit the road.

Overloaded ;)

Our team consisted of three people: Damian Małas, Michał Szczepański, and, of course, me. With three cave divers, the amount of gear is enormous. Plus, in France, there aren’t many dive bases that can quickly accommodate us and prepare cylinders for the next day of diving. We needed to be self-sufficient.

A 50 L cylinder filled with oxygen for the rebreathers, maxed out, should last us for several days of diving. With

rebreathers, we use little bottom gas, so a few stages should be enough. Spare drysuits and undergarments to avoid any mishaps or being excluded from further diving due to gear failure, plus the scooter. The car was packed to the roof. There was virtually no clearance between the tires and the wheel arches.

1, 2, 3 – switch

To get to our destination quickly, we switched drivers every three hours.

Fuel stop, coffee, and back on the road.

We couldn’t push the van too hard due to the overload, nor tempt fate and risk getting pulled over by the police ��

After 16 hours of driving, we arrived, thankfully in high spirits. On arrival, the rest of the group greeted us.

The first surprise? We were sleeping in a barn! From the outside, it looked like something straight out of the Middle Ages. But inside, the space was cozily adapted for tourists. On the shelves in the dining area were regional wines and local products.

The vibe? ABSOLUTELY AMAZING :)

That evening was all about prepping our gear so we could get up early and be ready quickly. Just a bit of bonding time over dinner and then straight to bed, because the next day…

The caves await

We woke up early. Crisp air, mist, and the first rays of sunlight shyly breaking through. The winding roads with their picturesque landscapes made the journey enjoyable, though a mix of excitement and curiosity drove us eagerly toward the caves. Our first challenge – Ressel. A legendary cave with stunning views.

We arrived at the parking lot. Despite the early hour, it was already full. We saw divers from all over Europe. You could hear Czech, Italian, French, German, and, of course, English.

The guys who had been here before gave me a tour of the site.

Brutal effort

To get to the water with our gear, we had to exert quite an effort. First, 200 meters to the riverbank, and then… 80 meters upstream. To make matters worse, the river level was very low, in some places barely ankle-deep. Transporting the gear, especially against the current, had to be done in stages. First the cylinders, then the photography equipment, and finally, dressed in drysuits with rebreathers on our backs, we had to make our way to the riverbed. Walking back and forth on slippery river rocks took a lot of energy and focus.

Ready to dive :)

The entrance to the cave is located in the riverbed. Exhausted from the logistics, we joyfully submerged ourselves in the murky river water, knowing that soon, we’d be able to relax. A guide line led us to the entrance. As we swam in, the water was cloudy at first, with visibility of just about two meters. The low water level meant that the murky water wasn’t flowing out of the cave into the river, so the visibility inside didn’t improve either.

The further we ventured into Ressel’s corridors, the clearer the water became.

When the cloudy water gave way to crystal clarity, and the logistical fatigue began to fade, it was time to grab the camera and start hunting for shots. The fascinating rock formations, seemingly layered, revealed the beauty of the local caves. The corridor forked. There were two options: follow the main guide line or explore an unassuming, narrow passageway.

We went off to the side, and it turned out to be an excellent choice. The narrow, tall corridor gently shallowed. The rock formations were incredible – layered like lasagna noodles. The water was crystal clear. The corners of my mouth lifted, knowing this spot would yield fantastic photos. My buddies, who’ve joined me on many photo shoots, knew exactly what

to do. A few pictures later, we moved on. The side corridor eventually reconnected with the main one, leading to a well. This well descends to about 40 meters and is another perfect spot for photos. We spent some time there before heading back. During the decompression stops on the way out, I reviewed the photos and knew the effort wasn’t wasted.

Ressel is a beautiful cave, ideal for photography. If only it weren’t for that grueling gear transport.

A mud bath

The next day, we chose the Fontaine de Truffe cave. We parked the van next to a muddy puddle. “This is it?” I asked in disbelief. The entrance to the cave was literally through a swampy puddle, with a piece of rope sticking out, indicating the way in. The mud was so thick that once submerged, you couldn’t even see the tip of your nose. A sturdy rope anchored above the water guided us deeper into the muck, eventually leading, at 5 meters, to a small opening we had to squeeze through. Thankfully, the bottom was gravelly, so blindly digging my way in, I managed to wedge myself through.

After 20 meters, the water became somewhat clearer, but not perfectly. Due to the lack of rainfall, the water inside the cave was very murky with a brownish tint. Unfortunately, this ruled out the possibility of taking photos.

We swam to a partially submerged chamber where we managed to take the only photos from this location. The cave is undoubtedly worth visiting, but sometimes the conditions make photography impossible.

Poor visibility continues

Unfortunately, the poor visibility continued at our next destination.

The Source de Landenouse cave, which is usually famous for its crystal-clear water, disappointed us. Once again, due to the low water levels, the visibility was underwhelming.

Not wanting to take any risks, we repeated our dive at Ressel the following day.

The cherry on top

We saved a cave almost exclusively suited for sidemount

systems for the end of our trip. Marchepied, as it’s called, never disappoints when it comes to visibility. It’s located directly next to a river, so clean water constantly flows out of it.

The entrance is guarded by a very narrow crack in the rock. It’s recommended to enter it only with a sidemount system. For the first 30 meters, you need to squeeze through with your belly tucked in to avoid getting stuck.

But after that? A reward awaits: crystal-clear water and stunning views.

The incredible rock formations are a photographer’s paradise. Narrow, low tunnels wind in all directions. Air trapped under the ceiling creates additional effects. Sometimes, we swam through partially submerged corridors. It was simply beautiful.

In summary

The caves are located amidst picturesque mountain landscapes. Add to that winding, narrow streets, old bridges, castles perched on cliff edges, and architecture straight out of the Middle Ages.

It’s as if time stood still here. Only the speed cameras remind you that we’re in the 21st century ;)

I’ll definitely come back here many more times. Perhaps next time without the camera ;) and maybe explore even more of these wonderful caves?

Underwater meadows

WHENEVER YOU THINK THE BOTTOM OF YOUR LAKE IS DULL AND MURKY, OR THAT YOUR FAVORITE DIVING SPOT IN CROATIA OFFERS NOTHING BUT ROCKS, START SWIMMING SHALLOWER.

WHERE THE SUN SHINES BRIGHTEST, NATURE REVEALS ITS ABUNDANCE.

It’s in these shallow waters – often no deeper than what a mask and snorkel require – that life pulses at its fastest pace.

Why shallow waters? This is where sunlight penetrates most intensely, stimulating the growth of algae and aquatic plants. These, in turn, provide excellent shelter for young fish, crustaceans, and other small creatures. Photosynthesis operates in full swing here, and by afternoon, you can often

spot countless tiny oxygen bubbles clinging to plant stalks and leaves, evidence of this remarkable process.

Where to find underwater meadows?

The best locations are secluded lake coves, calm sections of rivers, or naturally sheltered seaside bays protected from wind and large waves. Where the water is clear and tranquil, life flourishes. Avoid areas with heavy boat traf-

Camouflage with hornwort and charophyte. Lake Narty

Text and photos MICHAŁ BAZAŁA

Planet Earth

A charophyte meadow in the rays of the summer sun became the perfect backdrop for portraying Krzysztof. Hemmoor Quarry, Germany

Water aloe (Stratiotes aloides), a protected plant resembling eucalyptus. The bubbles in the water are oxygen produced through photosynthesis.

Lake Piłakno

Before diving into deeper waters, I check what kind of photo the local pier can offer me.

rugged coastal rocks provide a perfect background for a contrasting starfish. Only later did I notice the building.

Lake Narty

A turtle delicacy –seagrass, just a few dozen meters from beachfront hotels. Turtle Bay on the Yucatán Peninsula, Mexico

The

Vis Island, Croatia

fic or completely sandy bottoms – underwater meadows thrive best on muddy or algae-covered ground. If you find water that feels warmer or appears greener or darker, you're probably near one of these natural oases. Some of my favorite spots for shallow dives include Lake Piłakno, Świętajno (Narty), and Fort Zbarż in Warsaw. Look for lush beds of water soldiers nestled among charophyte carpets that turn water into champagne, or the long stems of pondweed, reminiscent of California’s kelp forests. At the edges where sand meets greenery, hungry perch and small pike often lie in ambush.

The magic of light in shallow waters

Shallow waters possess a unique aesthetic, especially captivating for photographers. Sunlight plays a crucial role, creating entirely different visual effects depending on the time of day. In the morning, beams of light pierce the clear water, highlighting soft green and golden tones. By afternoon, the scene becomes more contrasted, with shimmering oxygen bubbles adorning plant surfaces. As the sun dips lower in

the evening, warm, gentle rays bathe everything in a magical glow.

When photographing, remember that sunlight is a painter in its own right. Underwater shots often need only minimal lighting, relying on natural reflections and diffused light to bring out texture and depth. Strong lamps or flashes can flatten the composition and scare off timid creatures. Patience and subtlety are key. In shallow water, with plenty of time while diving with a tank, try hovering for several minutes, observing the world around you from a predator's perspective. It's amusing to watch the surprise of approaching creatures, which typically dart away before you get a chance to spot them during a standard dive along a guide rope.

In these seemingly simple spots, where light and water form a harmonious duet, lies a world of magic. Underwater meadows aren't just a refuge for small creatures – they're full of surprises and intricate details waiting to be discovered. They’re a fantastic playground for both wide-angle and macro photography. You don’t need to dive deep – just take a closer look beneath the surface.

This loach, thanks to its grasping fins, perfectly resists the waves of the surf.

A shallow, rocky bay in northern Sardinia

Warsaw mangroves on the shore of Fort Zbarż.

Drifting in the clouds. Lake Narty

Measure your strength against your ambitions. Lake Narty

DOES DIVING IN COLD WATER OFFER HEALTH BENEFITS?

Text ALDONA DREGER Photos ALDONA DREGER i JACEK TWARDOWSKI

Introduction

During conversations at the diving site last weekend, I heard from the operator of the diving base at Koparki that, in recent years, more and more people are opting to dive in winter. This confirms that cold waters are no longer the exclusive domain of the most determined divers but have gained popularity among a broader audience of enthusiasts.

As someone with years of experience in diving – both in warm and cold waters – I want to share my personal experiences. For me, winter diving is not only a unique adventure and a connection with nature but also a way to care for both physical and mental health. The article I present to you is largely based on these experiences, which have taught me how many advantages cold waters offer. I hope it inspires you to discover their potential.

It’s important to remember, however, that every organism reacts to cold differently, and the effects of diving in cold waters may vary depending on physical predispositions and experience.

1. Cold water as a health stimulus

Cold water, combined with the conditions of diving, stimu-

lates the body and mind in a unique way. In this article, we’ll explore how low temperatures affect a diver's body and why ice diving is an especially intriguing method of improving overall health.

Immersion in cold water triggers rapid bodily responses. Vasoconstriction, increased heart rate, and intensified breathing are natural defense mechanisms of the body. Contrary to appearances, such reactions can have long-term positive effects.

Cold water stimulates blood flow, improving tissue perfusion and contributing to better circulation and faster recovery.

Regular exposure to cold can increase the number of white blood cells responsible for fighting infections, thereby strengthening the immune system. However, it’s worth noting that these observations still require further validation through scientific research.

As many divers emphasize, the feeling of energy and rejuvenation after a cold dive is no myth – it’s a real reaction of the body to a stimulus that pushes it to act. This argument speaks for itself.

2. Establishing encountered conditions

To fully understand the physical and mental health benefits of diving in cold waters, it’s essential first to define the basic conditions under which such dives take place. The key aspects to consider include:

Certification of divers: Divers should hold relevant certifications, particularly in ice diving specialties.

Adherence to safety protocols: Diving should follow strict safety guidelines, be conducted in an organized environment, and be overseen by qualified instructors.

Proper equipment for cold waters: While dry suits are highly recommended, many still choose to dive in wetsuits. This requires additional preparation and limits the time spent underwater to avoid discomfort or hypothermia.

Without adequate preparation, diving in cold waters can lead to discomfort or even discourage further attempts. Thus, careful consideration of equipment choices and meticulous dive planning is crucial.

It’s also worth noting that diving in cold waters doesn’t always mean ice diving. Ice, which forms only under specific temperature conditions, is characteristic of the most extreme environments. However, many cold-water sites are accessible year-round without the need to cut through ice.

3. Conditions and preparation for diving in cold waters

The term “conditions encountered in diving” refers to all the factors a diver encounters at the dive site, which can affect their safety, comfort, and overall experience.

Examples of conditions encountered in diving:

Environmental conditions:

● Water and air temperature.

● Underwater visibility.

● Presence of ice, waves, or currents.

● Depth of the body of water and its topography. Technical state of the dive site:

● Accessibility to the water (e.g., shore entry, platform, or through an ice hole).

● Presence of infrastructure, such as safety points or guide ropes.

Organizational aspects:

● Number of divers at the site.

● Presence of qualified personnel, such as instructors.

● Type of equipment used (dry suit, wetsuit).

Human factors:

● Experience and preparation of the divers.

● Level of certification and knowledge of safety protocols.

● Mental and physical readiness of participants.

4. Physical benefits of diving in cold waters

Improved circulation

In cold waters, the body is forced to adapt quickly to thermal changes. During ice diving, where water temperatures can drop to 0°C, the body reacts by constricting blood vessels near the skin to retain internal heat. Upon resurfacing, the blood vessels dilate, enhancing blood circulation. Regular exposure to such conditions can support cardiovascular health over time.

Long-term, the flexibility of blood vessels improves, potentially reducing the risk of heart disease and hypertension.

Better breath control

In extreme conditions like ice diving, divers must maintain full control of their breathing. The mindfulness and precision required during descents into such conditions encourage a slower breathing pace. Cold water increases the body’s oxygen demands, pushing the lungs to work more efficiently. This results in increased lung capacity, improved respiratory endurance, and better breath control during stressful situations.

Stronger muscles and greater endurance

Moving through cold water demands more physical effort as the body expends additional energy to maintain its temperature and overcome water resistance. Ice diving, where heavy equipment and restricted movements beneath the ice add extra strain, strengthens muscles and builds endurance. These combined physical benefits make cold-water diving an excellent activity for enhancing overall fitness and resilience.

5. Mental health benefits

Equipment and conditions affecting the diver's experience

While dry suits provide the highest thermal comfort, many divers continue to use wetsuits. However, diving in a wetsuit in cold waters can lead to rapid cooling, limiting the time spent underwater and requiring greater caution. For these divers, it’s crucial to prepare the body for cold temperatures through practices like cold-water immersion or short dips in chilly waters.

Stress reduction and mood improvement

The silence and tranquility beneath the ice have a profound impact on stress reduction. During ice diving, when

the only sounds are one’s breath and the movement of water, the mind can enter a state of deep calm. Immersion in cold water also has remarkable effects on mental well-being. It lowers cortisol levels (the stress hormone) while boosting the production of endorphins – natural "happiness hormones."

Additionally, overcoming the fear of cold and confined spaces strengthens self-esteem and builds mental resilience.

The key to a positive experience

Diving in cold waters can indeed be a form of stress relief,

but only when conducted professionally and safely. Without proper preparation or if the conditions cause anxiety, the experience can increase tension, leading to a vow of "never again." This underscores the importance of diving in organized groups under the supervision of experienced instructors, who can help divers adapt to the challenges of cold-water environments effectively.

Mindfulness and concentration

Ice diving requires complete focus – both on controlling the equipment and observing the surroundings, as well as work-

ing as a team. This helps develop concentration skills and the ability to function in demanding conditions.

Mindfulness underwater, especially in the confined environment of ice diving, has a therapeutic effect, reducing mental clutter and improving overall well-being.

Regular exposure to cold can also improve sleep quality, reduce symptoms of depression, and enhance overall mental resilience.

Focus and concentration – various influencing factors

Diving in cold water demands particular attention, but this

depends on individual tolerance to cold and the depth of the dive. The effects of pressure, reduced body temperature, and potential hypothermia can lead to diminished perception, which is especially dangerous in deeper waters. For this reason, it is crucial to carefully discuss the dive plan beforehand and be aware of one's limitations.

6. Strengthening immunity

Cold exposure and immunity

Regular exposure to cold, as in the case of ice diving, activates adaptive processes within the body.

Similar to cold-water swimming, ice diving helps the body better adapt to changing environmental conditions, reducing susceptibility to infections and seasonal illnesses.

Conditioning the body

Cold waters beneath the ice compel the body to manage heat and energy more efficiently. This makes the body more resistant to extreme temperatures and improves the efficiency of the thermoregulatory system.

Cold-water diving forces the body to adapt, which can enhance its overall performance. Among the most significant adaptive effects are:

Improved cold tolerance: Regular immersion in cold water increases the body's ability to cope with low temperatures.

Enhanced respiratory function: The intense breathing response to cold trains the diaphragm and lungs, which can improve respiratory efficiency.

7. Diving in cold waters as an extreme sport

The importance of proper equipment

Ice diving requires a dry suit to protect against cold and allow longer immersion. Additionally, breathing equipment must be freeze-resistant, and safety ropes ensure security.

Gloves, a hood, and inner insulation are also crucial to minimize the risk of hypothermia.

Gradual adaptation to the cold

To fully benefit from the health advantages of cold water, it’s important to gradually acclimatize the body to low temperatures. For instance, regular cold-water swimming or brief cold baths can prepare the body for ice diving.

Teamwork and training

Ice diving requires teamwork – safety personnel on the surface are essential for security. Furthermore, specialized training provides knowledge on navigating confined spaces and handling emergencies.

In the context of ice diving, cold water presents additional challenges for divers. Alongside its health benefits, this type of diving demands proper preparation, which in itself can

positively impact physical fitness. Regular training, equipment care, and planning skills develop both the body and mental discipline.

8. The uniqueness of ice diving

Unparalleled experiences

Under the ice, the world looks completely different – light refracts uniquely, creating magical visual effects. Air bubbles, frozen ice structures, and crystal-clear water provide sensations unlike any other form of diving.

Overcoming limits

Ice diving is not only demanding but also deeply rewarding. Overcoming the fear of cold and extreme conditions strengthens the psyche and provides a sense of accomplishing something extraordinary.

Although cold-water diving is not for everyone, healthy individuals who are well-prepared physically and mentally

can reap significant benefits. However, people with cardiovascular issues or other chronic conditions should consult a doctor before undertaking such activities.

Conclusion

Diving in cold waters is not just a challenge but also a unique way to enhance health. Improved circulation, strengthened immunity, and positive effects on mental well-being are just some of the reasons to explore cold diving sites.

Considering the existing conditions allows for a better understanding of the potential health benefits of cold-water diving while also recognizing the challenges divers face. Both selecting appropriate equipment and conducting dives professionally are crucial to achieving positive physical and mental effects.

Cold waters are my passion, and many of the described health benefits I discovered through personal experience. Each dive brings new impressions and teaches something about oneself. I encourage you to give it a try – who knows, perhaps in the cold waters, you’ll find not only beauty but also a new quality of life.

UNDER THE INFLUENCE NOT ONLY DIVING

I OFTEN HEAR A QUESTION FROM MY STUDENTS: "DOMINIK, HOW IS IT WITH DIVING AND ALCOHOL?"

MY ANSWER IS ALWAYS THE SAME. I FOLLOW THE CLASSIC APPROACH – SLIGHTLY PLAYFUL, SLIGHTLY CHEEKY, DEFINITELY BOLD, AND HUMOROUS...

BRING IT 

So, when the Editor-in-Chief of this magazine asked if I would tackle an article on a topic no one dares touch for fear of controversy or backlash, my response could only be: Just make sure you don’t misspell my name.

At the outset, dear Reader, I’d like you to treat this essay as an invitation to reflect on the topic with a touch of humor. This won’t be a medical or scientific treatise backed by research – no one conducts such studies because it’s a taboo subject. What I’ll share are my SUBJECTIVE observations and reflections.

I did hesitate for a moment, questioning whether I’m qualified to comment on this subject and whether I can approach it with sufficient detachment. After a brief pause, I confidently concluded that the answer to both questions is positive, for three reasons:

First, I am an OUTSTANDING �� connoisseur and admirer of the "firewater" in its various forms, especially those originating from what we like to call a "reliable source."

Second, nature has blessed me not only with a big heart but also with a proportionally large liver, which allows me to metabolize alcohol quickly without suffering the so-called “next-day effect.” This, of course, provides me with extensive experience in the subject.

And third, I have been a professional diving instructor for over 25 years and have been diving intensely for more than 35 years. I’ve been on countless trips and expeditions with all sorts of people. What I’ve seen and encountered gives me the credibility to take a stab at this topic.

The substance we know as alcohol is perceived differently across cultures and religions. Even within the same civilization, the differences can be stark. One criterion that illustrates this is the permissible blood alcohol limit for operating motor vehicles on public roads.

Text and photos DOMINIK DOPIERAŁA

´ 0,0‰ – Czech Republic, Slovakia, Romania, and Hungary

´ 0,1‰ – Albania

´ 0,2‰ – Poland, Norway, Sweden

´ 0,3‰ – Russia, Georgia, Montenegro

´ 0,4‰ – Lithuania

´ 0,5‰ – Austria, Andorra, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Denmark, Finland, France, Greece, Spain, the Netherlands, Iceland, Israel, Latvia, Germany, Portugal, Slovenia, Scotland, Switzerland, Turkey, Italy

´ 0,8‰ – United Kingdom, Malta, Liechtenstein, USA

Interestingly, in France, for new drivers with less than three years of experience, a lower limit of 0.2‰ applies.

While writing this article, I discovered countless online calculators that show how much you can drink, what your BAC (blood alcohol content) will be, and how long it will take to sober up after consuming specific amounts.

For example: "It is generally assumed that the alcohol content in the body after drinking one beer is approximately 0.26‰ (0.13 mg/L).

The time to sober up in this case can range from two to even four hours, with an average of three hours."

What stands out immediately is the difference in legal tolerance.

Alcohol, at least in our country, is socially accepted. We can't imagine family parties, carnival balls, weddings, wakes, or any other celebration without it. People who don’t drink are looked at suspiciously – probably taking antibiotics or something. In fact, we are even PROUD of how much we can drink, often boasting about it.

According to available information, the highest officially confirmed blood alcohol level in Poland was 14.8‰, recorded for Tadeusz S. after he caused a car accident. Doctors had to repeat the test several times to ensure such an unbelievably high result.

The unofficial world record also belongs to a Pole and is as high as 22.3‰. This occurred after a tragic car accident, but the police noted that the blood may have been contaminated.

"Three beers" (quickly calculated as 0.26‰ x 3 beers), which in Poland would be considered a serious offense and could result in losing your driver's license for 15 years, is perfectly normal in England and the USA. This means that an Englishman, after spending an evening at a pub or having dinner in a restaurant with two glasses of wine, gets behind the wheel. They can legally drink four times as much alcohol as a Pole.

There are also significant differences in social tolerance. Alcohol is widely available in our country. I suspect that if you live in a city, you can buy this substance within 500 meters of you, between 6 a.m. and 10 p.m. During the night hours, you'll have to travel a maximum of 2 kilometers to find a night store or a gas station. You see its advertisements on TV, half of the refrigerators in stores bear the logo of some producer. You can buy an unlimited amount of it. But have you ever tried to buy alcohol in Scandinavia, which has the same consumption limit as we do? Or perhaps in a country with a different religion?

Although these levels seem unbelievable, alcohol-dependent individuals can develop a tolerance that allows them to survive doses that would be fatal for an average person. Alcoholism is a silent problem that we often don't notice. Most of the time, we don't realize that someone "has a problem with alcohol." Why did I write such a long and somewhat tedious introduction? Because I want you to realize that if alcohol accompanies us everywhere, every day, it is inevitable that it will also be present during the period when we are supposed to relax. During vacations, trips, and moments when we also dive. Most people want to reset during their free time, and alcohol (and unfortunately, not just alcohol) is one of the tools for doing so.

Now, the “religious fanatics” will wake up, who will immediately say, “I do not tolerate people who drink, and I certainly don’t dive with them.” I won’t argue with you, my dear ones. Faith and beliefs must be respected. It’s not my role to convert anyone. I can wish you good luck and perseverance in your dreams.

Okay, let's first think about what happens to our body while diving. We enter the water up to our neck (we haven’t even started diving yet) and the blood vessels in the limbs contract, as a result of which about 1-1.5 liters of blood is pumped into our torso. The body immediately begins to defend itself, so it dehydrates the blood (concentrates it). And after being in the water, we need to pee (somehow, this water has to leave our body). So, if we had

any alcohol in our blood, it “automatically” increases. With increasing depth, we breathe gas under increasing pressure. Our gas consists of 79% nitrogen, which is narcotic. In the past, nitrogen narcosis (as we call this phenomenon today) was referred to as “the ecstasy of the depths” or “the Martini effect.” The simplest comparison was to experiences with alcohol, because almost everyone has had them. There was a very simple conversion: every 10 meters of depth – that’s one Martini glass. In those days, diving at 60 meters was still a recreational activity , so 6 glasses weren’t an impossible result. I remember that in my original training organization, we used to say that a diver shouldn’t have “alcohol aversion.” Some even “trained” their tolerance to nitrogen.

One of the tasks of a diving instructor is to show their students that nitrogen narcosis has a significant effect on them. There are different techniques for this, but the assumptions are always the same: comparing our reactions on the surface and the reactions to the same stimuli underwater. When I explain how this works to my students, I refer to their life experiences – you drink with a friend in a room, one, two, five drinks. You look at your friend, and he looks at you, and you absolutely don’t see that he’s drunk; he has the same feelings when he looks at you. His sober wife enters the room and sees… two drunkards.

The task my students are given is simple. They are given a two-sided board with two sets of numbers from 1 to 25 (example in the photo). They have three tasks to do within time.

After receiving the signal, they must:

1. Flip the board.

2. Touch the numbers in order from 1 to 25 with their finger. 3. After touching number 25, raise the board above their head.

Of course, we first measure the time on the surface. The average times on the surface are 30-60 seconds. Then they have to repeat this task while diving. Immediately, my note to diving instructors: if you haven’t used this technique yet and want to add it to your repertoire, feel free to, but do not use this technique deeper than 30 meters. At 30 meters, the average result from the surface is doubled. At 40 meters, you might run out of the no-decompression limit to carry out this exercise with one person 

73 15 6 13 17192111 9 5 2514 1 22 2310202416 2 1218 84

So, what effect do we have, as a result of ONLY diving? Slower thinking, disorientation, euphoria – sadness, fear.

And the symptoms of alcohol intoxication? Increasing alcohol intoxication is accompanied by orientation problems and a reduced ability to react. With progressing alcohol intoxication, symptoms such as disturbances in thinking, perception, and consciousness appear.

Conclusion: since alcohol is STRONGLY addictive – so is diving!!! (This is, of course, a joke.)

Let me phrase the question differently. Can you be drunk after one glass of champagne?

Yes, you can. How do I know? Because I’ve experienced it many times. In the club where I grew up, there was a tradition of drinking champagne underwater in a 5-meter pool to celebrate the New Year. No one had ever heard of anything like "non-alcoholic" champagne. We used to share one bottle among several people. Half of us couldn't drink from the bottle underwater, so the "champagne" was consumed very slowly. Nevertheless, a few sips of alcohol under increased pressure gave me a "kick" in the head.

Let me explain right away. I’ve been "under the influence" many times and I know how my body reacts to one or two beers. I know how I feel when I drink more alcohol at a party. There, in that pool, I drank a maximum of 150 ml of awful champagne. And I felt the alcohol almost immediately in my head. When I climbed out of the water using the ladder, I had wobbly legs, dizziness – I was drunk. I’ll immediately DISAPPOINT YOU: this effect is not an economical form of "getting wasted." As the pressure decreased, I sobered up after a moment. But the alcohol in my blood "hits" my head almost instantly and with a multiplied force when you’re subjected to increased pressure while diving.

As a young diving instructor, I lived in an ideal world where people are responsible, serious, wise, and have no problems with themselves. Diving is their dream form of recreation, and they will give up their addictions for it. After a whole night of partying, they won't switch into the "immortality mode" because they think they’re "special." I thought that I would ALWAYS know when people are under the influence and that this problem would never affect me.

Well, I was right… I thought!!! Life quickly verified my assumptions. Over the years of work, I’ve seen and experienced a lot. Here are a few short stories that you can treat as a joke or a warning.

Before you started diving in a new location, whether on vacation or a new course, you probably signed three forms (at least you should have). The first, regarding your health condition. The second, regarding understanding procedures and safety standards for diving. And the third, acknowledging the risks associated with diving and the lack of responsibility of the people conducting the diving and training. When does the instructor not take responsibility? When you’re drunk, hungover, or under the influence of various substances.

Morning, somewhere in the Red Sea, the sun has just risen over the horizon, and we’re getting ready for the morning dive. The evening before, some of the group had a name day or some other very important occasion. Almost everyone from that party is now sleeping soundly in their bunks. Only one man, let’s call him "Mark," ended this party when we started preparing for the dive. He ostentatiously declared that he was coming with us because he paid, demands, and expects. He then started putting on his wetsuit. The shock in the eyes of the other participants doubled when I gestured for them to ignore him and continue dressing. After a moment, the whole team was ready to board the zodiac. Well, almost everyone, because "Mark" was still putting on his wetsuit. I approached him, placed my hand on his shoulder, and suggested: "Let it go, Mark." His response was firm: "NO!!! I’m going with you!!!" I looked deeply into his glazed eyes and repeated the request: "Let it go, Mark." He remained unmoved, even more determined, and began putting on his wetsuit faster. I gave him 30 seconds to struggle, then repeated my request. But this time I elaborated: "Let it go, Mark, you’ve been trying to put your leg in… the sleeve of the wetsuit for 20 minutes." He did let go.

I lived abroad for years. I had a few Europeans working for me. When they had a day off, I’d take them on a diving boat to spend some quality time. Among them was one man, who was objectively great at what he did, but from my perspective, he had two flaws. He smoked like a chimney, and the worst kind of cigarettes, so he just stank. Every so

often, he’d disappear for 10 minutes, 15 minutes, sometimes even for up to an hour. On the boat, he never wanted to try diving, even though he couldn’t take his eyes off the water. One day, he pulled a stunt that made me decide we were parting ways, and he would return to his home country. That evening, I got a call from his crying wife, asking me to give him another chance. They were in a tough situation, with two young kids, and he, as an alcoholic, couldn't hold down any job. WHO? I worked with him for 5 months. Every evening, we’d have a beer after work. None of us had any idea that he was drunk ALL THE TIME. He drove a car, worked, and in a country with prohibition, where buying alcohol wasn’t easy, he was under the influence NON-STOP. He admitted he REALLY wanted to dive but was afraid because he knew he was drunk. When I brought the breathalyzer, it turned out that none of us had ever seen the him sober. He had 2‰ when he was "sober."

Summer, a Polish lake. The first day of open water diving for a group of new divers. As always, there’s tension in the air. After a few pool sessions, it’s time to apply the skills

learned to real diving. This always comes with emotions. I divide the group into teams and pair students. I always pair people so they feel comfortable with each other. That morning, there was a father with his 17-year-old son in the group. The son was definitely better in the pool, which stressed out the father. The young man seemed to be completely unaffected by diving. Beautiful weather, crystal-clear water, a good plan, a shallow depth (since it’s the first dive) – what could go wrong? We slowly descend following the bottom contour. Over time, we gain depth. Even during the pool sessions, I thought the boy had vision problems and should wear glasses. He strained his eyes before responding to any signals. I even asked his father about it – he denied it. He said the boy had excellent vision because they had checked it recently. During this dive, the problem intensified. The boy either didn’t react to signals or his reaction was RADICALLY slowed down. At one point, he turned toward deeper water and started swimming. In the following seconds, he lost consciousness. Every respectable instructor in such a situation switches to programmed mode and reacts to the threat. That’s what we’re mainly

paid for. We’re not heroes, superheroes, or anything extraordinary. We’ve simply spent a lot of time practicing skills, primarily preventing accidents but also responding to them. In very safe recreational diving, we’re just another layer of protection. I won’t describe the obvious things, like the fact that the boy ended up in the hospital. Although after being brought to the shore, he felt perfectly fine. And you know what turned out… his biological father, with whom he lived and spent time, and the whole family had no idea that the boy was a drug addict. So, how was I (his diving instructor), who had seen him just a few times in my life, supposed to know?

As a professional diving instructor – I have peace of mind. You sign documents stating that you will be sober and will not dive under the influence of alcohol, drugs, or other substances. If you have an accident, I have a "butt-covering" defense. No court will sentence me for YOUR irresponsibility.

As a business owner trying to support myself and my family through a diving business – I will most likely be finished. Despite my hard work, the hate machine, internet gurus, will run me over at every step. They will pull pieces out of some nonsense without having any idea what really happened. And the tragedy will follow me forever.

As a human being – I will always wonder if I could have prevented it. What could I have done differently? Was it really my fault? What really happened?

Each of us takes responsibility for ourselves. We, as diving leaders, take extra responsibility for you. We ensure dive safety, procedures, and equipment. We assess people and their skills at a given level. When we sign a certificate for a student, we need to be sure they can handle that level because we may never see them again. However, we are not responsible for what’s in someone's head.

Do people drink a lot on trips and vacations? Yes. Do they use other substances? If they’re available, probably yes. Do they combine this with diving? YES. Whether we professionals like it or not. I’ve seen dive bases trying to introduce breathalyzers – the neighboring base didn’t have one. Of course, you can refuse someone the chance to dive if you see they’ve been drinking. But what if you don’t see it?

Diving under the influence of alcohol, hungover, or after using other intoxicating substances is VERY DANGEROUS. Not only for you but also for those diving with you. Your reactions may be UNPREDICTABLE, and you could harm not only yourself. If you’re unsure whether you’re sober enough to dive, follow the rule that "if in doubt – there’s no doubt" and cancel the dive. Rest, sleep it off, and sober up.

On vacations when you’re diving, if you drink alcohol, ALWAYS do so after your last dive of the day. Not before, and not in between dives. Make sure you control the amount of alcohol you consume and give yourself enough time to rest and sober up before your next dive.

Alcohol is for people, and when consumed in moderation, with awareness and responsibility, it can help us relax during vacations. It can also cause vacations to turn into a tragedy. It’s up to you where you draw the line.

Taking the opportunity, since this is the first article of the new 2025 year, I would like to wish you unforgettable dives and trips to the farthest corners of the world. And to indulge in the joy of diving.

INVISIBLE, BUT AUDIBLE!

Text and photos WOJCIECH JAROSZ

The sun is just rising, the morning mists are starting to light up romantically, the tiny waves on the lake are sparkling happily, plus a cup of something warm in your hand (because it's the beginning of May, so it's not too warm at all) and just when you think that there is complete peace and quiet, not to say bliss at your fingertips... something must have started to buzz in the coastal reeds!

Drilling into the very centre of your Heschel's gyrus (the region of the temporal lobe responsible for auditory perception), the almost machine-like, monotonous dull rattle disturbs you and does not allow you to savour the would-be idyll. Who the devil?!

It's the buzz of Savi's werbler. Many birds, as well as organisms from other taxonomic groups, have been given

species names referring to some of their characteristic features. And the Polish name of Savi’s warbler, which would be “buzzer” translated directly into English, belongs in this group to a narrow elite of names chosen excellently, and in this case even... “singingly”. Because this rattling voice is a buzzing song, whose functions are similar to the singing of other feathered vocalists, and whose perfor-

mances and concerts are usually a bit more friendly to our ears. Firstly, singing serves to attract females during the breeding season, and secondly, to warn rivals against entering the occupied territory. That is, males sing (in the case of Locustella luscionioides – they buzz), which is common among birds, or in fact it is commonly believed to be so. A deeper analysis of the issue shows that females can also join acoustic signalling by implementing the socalled territorial marketing. In regions of temperate climate, you can observe common singing of males and females, e.g. in robins to defend their winter territory or in migratory American robins, which happen to sing together to defend their breeding territory. Bird duets are sometimes involved in singing together, which is such an interesting issue that ornithologists look at it vigilantly in their research. They point out that, especially among birds forming long relationships (sometimes fully monogamous), as well as those that stay on their territory all year round

(mainly in tropical regions), males and females together signal by singing that their piece of forest (or other types of habitats) is already occupied, and is closely guarded. It is believed that in two-thirds of all songbirds, females sing, with the most common purpose of female vocal activity being to defend territory, which females are prompted to do by, among other things, the high cost of investment in brooding. This topic has recently been quite eagerly explored by researchers of bird behaviour, especially since it was previously somewhat neglected. But let's get back to the singing of our Locustella, e.g. Savi's warbler. Its Latin name (Locustella luscinioides) in its second part, called the species name, refers to the Latin luscinia meaning... nightingale. With this reference, however, it is like a bullet in the fence when you want to compare the vocal capabilities of the Savi's warbler and the nightingale. Rather, you have to follow the trail of similar coloration of both creatures. In turn, the generic part of the name

may be translated as a small locust or a small grasshopper. And here everything fits, after all, the genus Locustella in Polish is crickets! The voice of the Savi's warbler, like that of crickets (and there are more than twenty species within this genus), is indeed closer to the sounds made by orthopteran insects, e.g. crickets. The closest relatives of the Savi's warbler occurring in Central Europe are the river warbler (L. fluviatilis) and the common grasshopper warbler (L. naevia). Cousins from more exotic locations are, for example, the Baikal bush warbler, West Himalayan bush warbler, Dalat bush warbler, Javan Bush Warbler or Chinese bush warbler, to name those species that have their place of occurrence written in their name.

Of all the Locustellidae family, the Savi's warbler is most associated with water. When you look at it, it doesn't look like a water bird, because it doesn't have long legs to wade in shallow water, it doesn't have diving skills, it doesn't even sit on the water

to get food or rest. Despite this, without water, the Savi's warbler will not make it, and it is not about quenching thirst, but about a place to breed. The nest is placed about 20 cm above water, among coastal reeds, or over a swamp or other wetland area. And when such a nest is ready, and it is occupied by a previously lured female, mister Savi's warbler will defend it with his rattling song. In principle, not only the nest itself will be subject to vigilant supervision, but also its surroundings that make up the territory of one pair. The area of the territory of the Savi's warbler is between 2 and 8 thousand square meters, so there is a lot to look after. Except for moments of singing, when the birds happen to sit in slightly more exposed places, they hide among the reeds, where they remain almost invisible. They fly efficiently through the rush thicket, catching insects and other invertebrates, which are the basis of their menu. A warbler is much easier to hear than to see, but when you manage to spot a bird perching

for a moment on one of the reeds, until it signs, you will not be sure whether it is Mr or Mrs warbler – sexual dimorphism basically does not occur when it comes to easily noticeable morphological features. What's more, these birds are quite similar to, for example, reed warblers sharing the same spots with them, so you need to have a lot of mindfulness and experience in bird watching to be sure that the bird you are looking at is in fact a Savi's warbler. However, spotting the bird will not be an easy task, as the Savi's warblers are masters of camouflage and sneaking in dense vegetation, which protects them from potential predators. Fortunately, in spring and summer, the birds sing with their insect voice, giving bird watchers a chance to detect their presence. Unlike many similar species, Savi's warblers sing at night, starting in the evening and ending in the morning. They also usually wander at night, because where it gets cold in winter, warblers leave going to warmer areas of the globe. During the breeding season, the warbler inhabits most of central and eastern Europe, island-western and southern Europe, the African shores of the Mediterranean Sea and Asia Minor, the countries of the Levant and Central Asia. We will not meet the Savi's warbler in Scandinavia and Iceland. Once it has finished breeding, usually two during the season, it goes to wintering grounds in Africa, primarily south of the Sahara. In Poland, although generally scarce, the Savi's warbler is widespread in the lowlands, occurring only in the vicinity of water reservoirs. Locally, over reservoirs with rich reedbeds, it can form quite numerous populations, supplementing the composition of the avifauna of these ecosystems, in addition to species such as great reed warblers, reed warblers, bearded reedlings, sedge warblers and common reed buntings (we have already written about some of them in Perfect Diver, we may write about the rest one day).

To conclude, I will go back to the beginning to answer a fairly important question: is it worth waiting until the Savi's warbler stops buzzing to experience the full state of relaxation in the bosom of nature with this morning mug? It can be different, because a Savi's warbler can rattle for a long time. A better strategy would be to get used to the buzzing sound, which I wish to Dear Readers! I will support here the reports of British researchers, who determined that the sight of birds and the sounds they make improve the mood of Homo sapiens for up to eight hours! Unfortunately, it was not stated whether there was a buzzing sound among the birds' sounds, but man does not live by nightingales alone. In any case, it has been confirmed what our great-grandparents already knew, that nature gives relief to strained nerves. So let's take care of it to have a place to effectively get rid of the effects of stress.

After diving, your BCD usually has some water in it. During the equipment disassembly, its weight is clearly noticeable. Does the amount of water affect buoyancy?

HOW MUCH DOES THE WATER IN THE JACKET WEIGH?

Text WOJCIECH A. FILIP

Photos TECLINE ACADEMY

Where does the water in the BCD come from?

In most cases, it enters the BCD when you’re in a head-down position, trying to expel air through the inflator, or when your head is higher than your legs and you’re trying to expel air through the rear valve, also known as the "dump valve." In each of these situations, instead of air escaping, water will enter the BCD. The more often you use the inflator or flush valve while in the wrong position, the more water you’ll find inside your BCD after the dive.

After the dive, I poured out almost 3 liters of water from my BCD. Does that mean I was overweighted by 3 kg during the dive?

No.

If you were diving in a lake, then a liter of water from that lake, submerged in the same lake, is neutrally buoyant. An experiment:

If, during the dive, you fill a 1-liter plastic bottle with water, it won’t suddenly become 1 kg heavier. For example, if

the plastic the bottle is made of is positively buoyant, even with a liter of water inside, the bottle will still float to the surface.

Did the water in the BCD give you an impression that you were overweighted?

It’s possible that it’s not just an impression.

If you’re usually overweighted, using a wetsuit, and additionally, when trying to expel air through the inflator or rear dump valve, you stay in the wrong position, it can turn out that the water you’ve filled the BCD with “reduces” its capacity, and you may start to sink despite adding air to the BCD.

Is water always neutral in water?

No.

If, in the experiment described above, you pour saltwater into a 1-liter bottle that is neutrally buoyant, it will sink. If you perform the experiment in the Red Sea and pour freshwater into the bottle, it will float to the surface.

This happens due to the higher density of saltwater. On average, the difference will be about 25 grams per liter.

Is there a situation where flooding the backup buoyancy device with water can be dangerous? Yes.

You are probably using a dry suit with an insulation layer. Every insulation layer has several important parameters. One of them is gas capacity. In simple terms, it refers to how much gas can fit into the insulation layer, considering its construction and the material it's made from. The more gas, the "warmer" the insulation.

Note! This doesn't refer to the gas added to the dry suit.

Due to the higher density of saltwater, you will need more ballast the more salt is dissolved in the water. The Baltic Sea is a low-salinity sea. Divers usually use the same amount of ballast there as they would in freshwater. You will need more ballast in the Red Sea. The largest difference in ballast weight will occur if you dive in water with a very high amount of dissolved salt, such as in flooded parts of salt mines. It may turn out that increasing the ballast by a dozen kilograms won’t be enough to submerge you. In the Polish salt mine in Wieliczka, the amount of dissolved salt in the water can exceed 20% by volume, meaning that 1 liter of this water will be over 200 grams heavier than freshwater.

Photo Karola Takes Photos

You can perform the following experiment: Check the weight of your insulation layer, then submerge it in freshwater, such as in a bathtub, and make sure it absorbs all the water (don't worry, nothing will happen to it). Then, place the soaked insulation into a bucket and check its weight (subtract the weight of the bucket). Subtract the weight of the dry insulation from the weight of the wet insulation. The difference is approximately the gas capacity of your insulation.

Ballast and all elements with negative buoyancy balance out the gas capacity of your insulation, which can be several liters.

So, what's the danger?

Let’s add a bit of drama.

If you get into an underwater fight with a crab with sharp pincers, and it punctures your dry suit enough that

it starts flooding with water quickly, your insulation could lose up to several kilograms of buoyancy. This will happen faster depending on how quickly the material of your insulation absorbs water – this is another important parameter of the insulation. If you do nothing and watch this process with curiosity, you'll notice that you are sinking more and more rapidly.

Conclusion: Fights with seemingly harmless crabs can have dangerous consequences.

Clear?

I'm not sure...

Stop by the Tecline Academy for a good coffee, and we’ll talk about water!

WAF

PS.

For many divers, fights with crabs and their consequences are nothing new, so to encourage an interesting conversation and a cup of that mentioned coffee, I'll add that in addition to salinity, the weight of water is also influenced by its temperature. Freshwater reaches its greatest density (and weight) at 4 degrees Celsius, and at lower temperatures, its density decreases.

As for saltwater...

Wait, wait, hold on!

Why does ice float on water?

Good question.

Certainly not because it has air trapped inside.

See you!

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