Nourish Publication Volume 4_Holiday Edition by Performance Foodservice

holiday

urish

VOLUME 4

OCTOBER TO DECEMBER 2018

CUT COSTS WITH SPEED SCRATCH

MENU ITEMS INTRODUCING

NEW MENU ITEMS

6 FANCY

RESTAURANT RULES

YOU CAN FORGET

ABOUT

NOT JUST CHEESY

BRINGING MORE THAN FLAVOR TO THE MENU

EASY HOLIDAY APPETIZER IDEAS

Local service, local control.

In an Era of centralization of support services and cost reduction in the foodservice distribution industry, someone often gets left behind... the customer. Performance Foodservice CEO George Holm once said “Nobody knows the needs of the customer better than those that are closest to serving the customer.” We live by that simple message today as we have in the past. From our President to our Senior Staff, procurement team to customer service, operations team to collections department, all reside right here in Springfield to service your needs. At Performance Foodservice - Springfield our support teams know who you are. If you have a problem that needs solving, a question that needs asking or an opportunity, the right resource is just steps away from providing an answer or solution. Our Account Managers work closely with all of our support departments and have relationships forged on meeting customer’s needs. No work tickets needed… you are our customer, not a work order waiting to be deemed complete. Not a customer yet? Here are some key questions to consider: Does the company I am doing business with have a President solely responsible for the customers at the distribution center I am purchasing from? Do all department heads of essential services (Purchasing, Customer Service, Collections, Operations, Sales) report directly to the Distribution Center’s President or do they report elsewhere? Are all departments staffed locally or are they located remotely, servicing multiple distribution centers? Do Account Managers have close contact with essential support services (Purchasing, Customer Service, Collections, Operations, Sales)? Could they walk into their office to discuss challenges and opportunities with their customers? Does local purchasing have full control over what items they stock in their warehouse and the vendors they choose to do business with or is this decided regionally or corporately? At Performance Foodservice - Springfield, our answer to all of these questions is YES. We can work to meet your needs and address opportunities right here, right now. Our customers are our most important asset.

Chef Richard Camerota, CEC Corporate Executive Chef As a graduate of The Culinary Institute of America, Chef Richard Camerota brings over 40 years of foodservice experience to the table. Reflecting on his practice, he attributes his fervor for cooking to some of the most influential women in his life. As a young boy, Chef Rich remembers watching his Neapolitan grandmother, aunt and mother prepare his family’s delicious holiday feasts. He was mesmerized by how their “uncalculated” techniques created culinary masterpieces with unparalleled flavor profiles. Not only did each “go with the flow” in the kitchen, each was creative in her approach. Unknowingly, they bestowed the importance of bringing creativity to dishes onto him, which inspires the culinary ideations suggested to his clients in his current role. The other influencer he met later in life showed him how to bring variety, humor, and passion into his cooking. His Sicilian mother-in-law taught him that it wasn’t only the recipe that was important, but what you put into the preparation also mattered. Ingredients never found on a recipe card such as creativity, variety, humor and love were integral to the final product. Anyone who has met Chef can attest to his passion towards the craft. His personality is reflected in each presentation and is infectious - or should we say addictive! To this day, Chef Camerota continues to rely on his diverse background to create unique culinary experiences in food preparation. His management style focuses on his ability bring clients into the kitchen for a memorable experience and to analyze whether they require a simple or more complex approach when he provides his consultative culinary services.

Susan Dion, MS, RD, LDN Nutrition Business Manager Susan Dion has spent an impressive 40 years working in the food industry. In high school she worked nights and weekends at a local nursing home as a cook and dietary aide. She continued this work in Boston area hospitals while attending Simmons College, and then immersed herself in a dietetic internship while simultaneously attending Boston University (earning herself a respective BS in Nutrition and Masters in Nutrition Education). Throughout this period Sue displayed a tenacious work ethic and thirst for knowledge, a thirst that seemed to be particularly satiated when learning about nutrition. This pull even lured Sue away from her original chosen field of study (Microbiology) while attending Simmons College. All of this passion, drive, and thorough research earned her a position as Marketing Director of Foodservice for the New England Branch of the American Dairy Association. Working in many fields of the food industry has helped Sue gain the skill of selling, the knowledge of how valuable a business partnership is and how continued study is necessary to stay up to date on the latest dietary research, all while demonstrating her cooking as a broker at Pinnacle Food Brokers. Sue says that, “My success is drawing on all of these different areas of experience to best service the customer… I might be called to search for all the vegan, gluten free products we have in stock for a camp customer one day and the next I am demonstrating how to make French toast out of puréed bread mix for residents with swallowing issues”. Developing skills with either of these branches helps advance and influence the others as well. Sue's latest passion resonates in promoting the newer field of Culinary Nutrition, which marries the art of cooking with the science of nutrition.

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Accommodating Vegan and Gluten-Free Holiday Guests By Emily Caldwell

Fall is here! But even though the weather is getting cooler, the kitchen is heating up! It's the start of the holiday season and people are beginning to come home to celebrate the festivities with family, friends, and loved ones. But as your customers gather around your dinner table to give thanks and revel in the mouthwatering feast you have prepared, it is crucial to remember your customers and their dietary needs. By providing vegan and gluten-free options during the upcoming Thanksgiving season you can be the holiday hero and give everyone something to be thankful for.

Many customers are adopting vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free lifestyles for health benefits and ethical reasons. Although their diets may be restrictive, they still want to be able to indulge on the same comforting dishes that are featured on your menu. Good thing most classic holiday dishes can easily be adjusted with a variety of convenient ingredients.

"Veganizing" Made Simple Veganism has been a growing food trend over the past couple of years. It is a strict vegetarian diet, with no consumption of animals or animal products (think dairy, butter, and eggs). These ingredients can often be a major part of holiday recipes like butter and cream in rich mashed potatoes, meat or beef broth in savory brown gravy, or eggs in a zesty pumpkin pie. To accommodate these guests, create hearty meals made with sweet and savory seasonal fruits and veggies. Follow these handy tips to create the best substitutes for these tasty treats.*

SOURCES: *"Vegan Substitutions Guide." VegKitchen. VEGKITCHEN.COM & 301BRANDS, LLC.,28 June 2017. Web. 19 Oct. 2017. *"What Is Gluten?" Celiac Disease Foundation. Celiac Disease Foundation, n.d. Web.19 Oct. 2017.

• • • • •

Replace regular cow's milk with soy or rice milk, or a nut milk like cashew or almond. A great egg replacement can be ground flax, applesauce, or a mashed banana. Instead of butter, try a vegan margarine or oils like vegetable, olive, or sunflower. Instead of using chicken/beef broth, try a vegetable broth. To get the same texture of regular cheese try a vegan cheese, tofu, or soaked nuts.

Go Gluten-Free Gluten is a protein that can be found in three main ingredients — wheat like in baked goods, pastas and sauces; barley like in beer and soups; and rye like in breads and cereals.* Many of those who live a gluten-free lifestyle are diagnosed with Celiac’s disease. This disorder occurs when people have an intolerance of, or sensitivity to, gluten. We find that most of the ingredients containing gluten, and used during the holidays, appear when baking treats, creating fluffy stuffing, or thickening classic sauces and dressings. Try these alternatives when baking your sweet desserts or soft breads. • • • •

Instead of wheat flour try coconut, chickpea, rice, almond, tapioca, oat, or buckwheat flour. Use this variety of flours to create gluten-free pie crusts, pumpkin loafs, or warm dinner rolls. When creating your stuffing, use quinoa, a rice substitute, or gluten-free breadcrumbs for added texture. Remember to add cornstarch instead of flour to your gravy.

With these alternatives, you can recreate traditional dishes with a twist for your vegan and gluten-free guests. For quick and delicious results, when prepping your meals, set a portion of your mix aside before adding in dairy products, butter, eggs, or flour and wheat. Make sure to indicate that your restaurant serves dishes that can be made vegan or gluten-free upon request or create a specialty menu during the season that accommodates both of these specific needs. The great thing about creating vegan and gluten-free meals is that they make your restaurant inclusive for all. So set the tables and expand your menu offerings to avoid ruffling any feathers this Thanksgiving season.

Emily is a former Performance Foodservice corporate Marketing Intern turned Millennial Correspondent. When she's not traveling the world experiencing new cuisines, she's exploring the newest food trends popping up in Chicago.

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ABOVE: Chef Elizabeth Falkner's milk chocolate and Kaltbach Le Gruyere cheese soufflĂŠ with caramel sauce.

NOT JUST CHEESY Beyond amazing flavor, cheese brings other qualities to the menu. By Maggie Hennessy The National Culinary Review

Cheese takes center stage in so many beloved dishes, it's easy to forget the subtle, playful, balancing qualities it can provide - whether injecting umami into the background of a dish, or toying with our expectations about classic compositions, from soufflés, to cacio e pepe to quesadillas. Even overtly cheesy dishes can benefit from capitalizing on cheese's more architectural characteristics.

everything," Falkner created a soufflé composed of milk and dark chocolate, Ovaltine and cave-aged Gruyere. She finishes it with aged Gruyere caramel sauce, which she lowers to room temperature before pooling into the center of the baked soufflé after making a slit in the top.

Upending Tradition

"The malty milk chocolate thing totally makes sense with the Gruyere - which I think has to do with the dairy background notes," Falkner says. "That made me want to break down and amplify or accentuate both of those ingredients working together in both salty and sweet."

Falkner took inspiration from the soufflé-centric stalwart Cafe Jacqueline in San Francisco, where she loved to go for a cheese soufflé followed by a chocolate soufflé for dessert. "I thought, why don't I just put them together?" she says.

The same goes for a riff on French onion soup she's developing. She begins with a consommé made from a raft or caramelized onions, mushrooms, celery, chicken thigh meat, sherry, chicken stock, broiled bread and Appenzeller cheese, which she strains through a cheesecloth. To finish, she adds Appenzeller cheese-filled dumplings made from eggs, bread flour, toasted bread, caramelized onions and mushrooms.

It's no secret that creative inspiration often stems from tradition. For chef, author and Emmi Roth USA consulting chef Elizabeth Falkner, that means turning typical Swiss cheese-containing dishes such as soufflés on their heads.

Because Switzerland is wellknown for cheese, milk chocolate and a penchant for "putting Ovaltine and Ovomaltine in

Elsewhere, at fine-dining new-

comer Bellemore in Chicago, chef/partner Jimmy Papadopoulos distills flavors reminiscent of cacio e pepe into a whipped Pecorino mousse that he pairs with slow-braised lamb belly, shaved kohlrabi and red grapes pressed with verjus rouge. Charleston, South Carolina's Zero Restaurant + Bar playfully mixes highbrow and lowbrow with its Pulp Fiction-referencing Royale with Cheese. Chef Vinson Petrillo reduces cream by half and emulsifies a package of Kraft singles to achieve a thick fondue. He seasons it with preserved truffle juice before pouring it over two griddled beef patties with mushrooms and onions on a brioche bun. And at Brooklyn, New York's modern Mexican spot Alta Calidad, chef Akhtar Nawab turns the quesadilla inside-out. He heats, crema, serrano chili, Queso Oaxaca and Burrata to 180°F, then strains the mixture into a blender and blitzes it with xanthan gum to thicken. The espuma is piped over a browned quesadilla stuffed with pumpkin blossom, serrano and onions, and dusted with ancho chili and activated charcoal ash.

Royale with Cheese at Zero Restaurant + Bar.

Makeover Cheese-Rind Mousse from Nicolas Delaroque, chef at Nico, San Francisco

What's in There?

Chefs, manufacturers and even home cooks nowadays are no strangers to cheese rinds as umami-rich flavor boosters for sauces, soups and braises. California chef Nicolas Delaroque takes a different approach. The Normandy, France native is the chef of Nico in San Francisco, where local dairy factors heavily into his modern bistro menu - from a crab appetizer with kiwi and buttermilk to a bergamot creme and Goat cheese dessert. Recently, Delaroque used the leftover rinds of an aged toma (semihard cow's milk cheese) to cleverly flavor a savory mousse. He infused the thinly chopped rind in heated cream and milk for about 10 minutes (until its grassy tang came through), then strained it and added carrageenan to thicken before bringing it to a boil and then

chilling it down. He poured the mixture into a siphon, let it rest in the cooler, then piped it onto a spoon as an amuse topped with herbs or nuts, or alongside figs and prickly mustard greens for a simple, refreshing appetizer. At hyper-local Chicago tasting menu restaurant/cafe Arbor Projects, co-owner Chad Little has been stirring whey into his housemade caramel, along with a little butter, to use on the cocktail menu. "Once the flavor is where I want it, I modify the texture to work in cocktails," he says. "If you keep it thicker, it is a really cool glaze for a cocktail that you can hit with lime zest and freeze-dried raspberry for a ridiculously tasty and unexpected cocktail element. The whey caramel adds a ton of body and a different acid profile with the lactic element." Falkner likes to use aged Gruyere

as an accent, "when you just want a sparkle of something that's got more depth," she says. Thus, a cheesy biscuit might have aged Gruyere incorporated into a compound butter with chives and parsley. "It creates a similar effect as those compound butters with big crystals of salt - but instead, with little bits of cheese." Indeed, the subtle saltiness and umami of hard cheeses such as Grana Padano, Parmesan and Pecorino Romano are big contributors to their consistent popularity at 40-year-old Italian cheese market Caputo in Lake Forest, Illinois. Although Parmesan is the best-seller, Pecorino is Caputo's biggest growth item these days. "It has the pungency of goat cheese, but at the same time, a lot of salt, so we're seeing a lot of movement there," says cheesemonger Natale Caputo.

Architectural Cheese

Even on more conspicuously cheesy menus such as Cleveland's relentlessly popular Melt Bar & Grilled, cheese choices go beyond flavor, providing structure and stability to the chain's large staple of loaded grilled cheese sandwiches. "We use cheese in three ways," says owner/founder Matt Fish. "For flavor - obviously - as a texture component and also as a building block. Our sandwiches are pretty big, so a lot of times we use cheeses as a stabilizer to hold a sandwich together. Some cheeses when they melt are stronger and gooier than others, like Provolone, Muenster and Mozzarella." Caputo notes that these properties are because of Mozzarella's and Provolone's higher moisture content, chemistry and milk/water ratio. "Mozzarella and Provolone have great stretching properties during the initial process and again after they are reheated, making them ideal for grilled cheese sandwiches," he says. Semisoft Muenster, on the other hand, does not stretch quite as easily. Melt offers 30-odd grilled cheese sandwiches - combining some blend of its 14 Wisconsin-sourced cheeses with everything from pierogies and mac and cheese to gyro meat, pulled beef brisket and breaded eggplant. The kitchen approaches each sandwich like a science, beginning with two 1-inch slices of sturdy toasted white bread smeared with began margarine, two 1-ounce slices of cheese on the bottom and top, then, additional meats and veggies. The Mom's Meatloaf Dinner, for example, comprises a slab of homemade meatloaf, roasted garlic and chive mashed potatoes, chipotle ketchup glaze and a few slices of Muenster cheese.

WHITE CHOCOLATE BONBONS WITH AGED GRUYERE GANACHE Jerome Landrieu, Chef Cacao Berry, Chicago

YIELD: ABOUT 50 BONBONS

Toasted coconut base

26.5 g passion fruit puree 34.5 g granulated sugar 130 g desiccated coconut METHOD: Simmer puree and sugar. Add desiccated coconut. Toast in oven at 248°F for 20 minutes, mixing every 5 minutes. Reserve.

Almond coconut praline base 15.9 g water 55.8 g granulated sugar 16.7 g powdered glucose 19.1 g toasted coconut flakes 87.7 g toasted almonds 0.7 g vanilla bean 4 g milk powder 0% METHOD: Make a brun caramel with water, sugar and glucose. Pour over coconut, almonds and vanilla bean. Grind with milk powder until praline texture. Set aside.

Coconut/Almond Crunchy 0 g Cacao Barry Zephyr 34% white chocolate 240 g Cacao Barry deodorized cocoa butter 100 g almond coconut praline base 1 g Cacao Barry paillete feuilletine 1 g toasted coconut base METHOD: Melt chocolate and cocoa butter. Add praline base. Crystallize. Add feuilletine and coconut base. Cast in 2-mm frame; let set. Cut 25-mm disks.

Mango Confit 65.3 g premium dried apricots 130.5 g mango puree 32.6 g passion fruit puree 9.8 g granulated sugar 9.8 g sorbitol powder

2 g pectin NH METHOD: Dice apricots. Add mango and passion fruit purees. Let soak overnight. Following day, blend mix; add dry ingredients. Simmer mixture. Chill. Cast in half sphere silicone molds with 19-mm cavity. Freeze.

Aged Swiss Gruyere Cheese Ganache 166 g cream 36% 15 g powdered sorbitol 65 g aged Gruyere cheese 185 g Cacao Barry Zaphyr 34% white chocolate 12 g butter 5 g Cacao Barry deodorized cocoa butter, tempered METHOD: Combine cream, sorbitol and Gruyere. Heat mixture to 70°C; pour over chocolate and butters. Make an emulsion. Chill to 28°C. Cast.

Decor Cacao Barry Zephyr 34% white chocolate, tempered Yellow and white colored cocoa butter, tempered To assemble: 1.

2. 3.

4. 5.

Spray molds with colored cocoa butter according to photo or design of choice. Let set. Make chocolate shells with Zephyr 34% white chocolate. Pipe 2 g ganache in each cavity. Place half sphere of mango confit; top with another 1 g of ganache. Place disk of crunchy on top. When ganache is set, seal with more Zephyr 34% white chocolate.

"The Muenster adds a little nutty, mild flavor, but more importantly, it melts well, photographs well and looks good," Fish says. "It has a tendency to melt down the side and keep meatloaf, mashed potatoes and ketchup glaze condensed inside the sandwich. The cheese acts as a moisture barrier between the bread and the wet ingredients." Fish says it took the team a few years of tinkering with cheese in its various moisture levels and ages to land on ideal sandwich combinations and compositions. "Once we realized a bit of the science behind it, it was so much fun to put the menu together," he says.

MAGGIE HENNESSY IS A CHICAGO-BASED FOOD-DRINK WRITER AND CHEF WITH A BACKGROUND IN BUSINESS WRITING AND MORE THAN 10 YEARS' EXPERIENCE AS A JOURNALIST AND EDITOR COVERING THE FOOD-RESTAURANT INDUSTRIES. VISIT HER WEBSITE AT WWW.MAGGIEHENNESSY.COM.

3 WAYS TO CUT

COSTS WITH

SPEED

SRATCH

MENU ITEMS

Across the industry, operators are always looking for innovative and clever ways to cut food costs and maximize labor. Getting the most out of everything, from ingredients to staff on the clock, can help to boost the razor-thin profit margins that are a reality of the business. One way that operators can optimize costs is by menuing speed-scratch items. Speed-scratch combines prepared components with fresh ingredients for delicious menu items that come together quickly. For operators looking to save money and time, try these three speed-scratch strategies to help cut costs and speed up prep time.

1 2

Create craveable sauces

Scratch-made sauces can take a lot of time to make, and unfortunately, they may not be as appreciated as they should be. From rich béchamel for lasagna to a bright and delicious marinara for pasta, these dishes can all be made more easily with prepared components. For savory pasta dishes, umami-rich tomato soup or even vegetable juice such as V8 can be reduced and then doctored up to meet the desired flavor profile. Signature sauces can also be made by taking a prepared sauce, such as Alfredo sauce, and blending in another ingredient to boost its craveability. For instance, blending roasted garlic, roasted red peppers or spinach into Alfredo sauce can make a brand-new sauce that can be used to develop dishes that are signature to a restaurant location or chain.

Elevate entrées

When prepared foods are used in menu items, it creates some additional flexibility, both with budget and with creativity, for the rest of a restaurant’s offerings. For example, using prepared pizza dough instead of making it from scratch means that kitchen staff can spend more time prepping fresh toppings, and they can also spend time crafting fresh, tasty side salads to go with the pizza entrée.

Similarly, if a soup or ready-made broth can be used in a dish—for poaching proteins or as the liquid in risotto—then cooks have more time to think about creative flavor combinations that can be offered. Speed-scratch also allows for labor to be used to create unique dishes that can be sold for a higher profit while still offering crowd-pleasers on the menu. Ready-made taco fillings, chili, soup, marinated proteins and more can all be used to put together cohesive meals that customers love, while still allowing chefs to flex creative muscle. Ready-made broths can be upgraded by adding in spices, herbs and other toppings such as noodles, protein and veggies, to create ethnically-inspired soups. For instance, taking a beef stock and simmering it with Vietnamese spices and herbs to make a speed-scratch bowl of pho can save a lot of time in comparison to making the whole dish from scratch.

Use prepared foods as ingredients

Prepared foods used as ingredients can also save a lot of time in the kitchen. Soup is an especially great option for this type of approach, because it can boost the flavor of just about anything it’s added to. For example, using tomato soup as a base for making an Indian-inspired butter chicken entrée can help operators offer on-trend ethnic dishes in a fraction of the time. Likewise, using creamy soups as the base of comfort food creations, like mac and cheese, can save money not only on the labor, but also on ingredients, since cream is often a higher-ingredient. Offering speed-scratch dishes is a great way for operators to save money on labor and food costs as well as time during food prep. Speed scratch menu items can include everything from signature sauces to upgraded entrées and can take pressure off kitchen staff when doing daily prep work. For operators looking for ways to maximize food and labor costs, speed-scratch is the way to go.

THE MAIN EVENT How consumer preferences and flavor trends are changing the traditional entrĂŠe BY KATIE AYOUB FLAVOR & THE MENU

Rock Bottom's Smoked Chicken Tostadas are positioned as an entrĂŠe, and are hugely successful, demonstrating big flavor touches like pulled chicken, black bean-corn salsa, Mexican crema and pickled red onion.

here’s a breathtaking amount of innovation on menus today, with much of it focused on small plates and shareables. And with good reason — the social, clockless menu is a game-changing trend that’s here to stay. There’s also a lot of flavor strategy being applied to the modern bowl build, which captures what today’s diners want to eat — a satisfying, often wholesome presentation with layers of thoughtfully assembled flavorful ingredients. But the entrée category is still a significant part of the menu mix for most full-service restaurants. How is innovation in other parts of the menu affecting modern entrée development? How are shifting consumer demands impacting the evolution of what an entrée looks like? Plate design has certainly always been dynamic, but those factors are putting pressure on chefs to rethink the composition of the plate and develop more flavor play, more textural elements. “When we’re looking at the entrée platform on the menu, we have to keep in mind that we’re a mainstream brand,” says Stan Frankenthaler, chief officer of food and beverage, brewing and strategic supply for CraftWorks Restaurants & Breweries, Inc., which operates Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery, Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurants and Old Chicago. “Part of the strategy is the approach to menuing—how we want to continue placing entrées on our menu and evolve the menu as we go. Modern entrée building is absolutely built around flavor complexity—we’re going for big flavor pops and big visual appeal.”

Traditional entrées generally follow a formula of a protein-centric build, with a starch and vegetable as support. Of course, a world of creativity can happen within that construct — and has for years — but today, there’s a shift in balance and makeup. “It’s a more thoughtfully curated plate that still delivers on the promise of an entrée,” says Pam Smith, RDN, an Orlando, Fla.based menu developer and culinary consultant, and co-chair of the Healthy Menus Collaborative. “The strategy today sees next-level plating, where protein is still the star, but beautifully prepared vegetables, pulses and rains become the co-stars.” There’s evidence of this modernized model across foodservice, where changing consumer demands help fuel thoughtfully constructed offerings. At Firebirds Wood Fired Grill, based in Charlotte, N.C., the new spring menu features

Lemon-Basil Grilled Salmon with a lemon-basil vinaigrette and a cool salad of organic red quinoa, pearl barley, spring peas, toasted pecans, grilled corn and goat cheese. “Our strategy around dishes like this is to bring multiple components to the plate that feature seasonal produce and appealing flavor combinations,” says Steve Sturm, corporate executive chef. The attention to flavor detail that marks other parts of the menu has become an imperative with entrée development.

The Value Proposition The challenge in retooling the entrée’s plate composition is keeping the value proposition intact. Diners have set expectations around entrées, wanting them to be satisfying and filling, and worth the typically higher price point than most other menu parts. (continued on next page)

Tell your guests about the quality of the protein you're serving in these modern entrées. The ones that truly sing in this new symphony of ingredients are thoughtfully raised, mindfully sourced - proteins with a good narrative behind them.

“A big part of the new approach to entrée development is around reducing the portion size of the animal protein while increasing vegetables and grains,” says Marie Molde, RD, account manager with Datassential. “They’re paying for it, though, so they still want a larger serving size— around six or so ounces is the sweet spot.” The research firm’s latest data demonstrates that many consumers are open to an updated plate composition. “Based on this research, diners are telling us that they are interested in more plant-based foods and are open to smaller portion sizes of animal protein, but that premium attributes become even more significant,” she says. “Terms like ‘grass-fed,’ ‘antibiotic free,’ and ‘wild-caught’ carry an added level of importance to consumers when you’re giving them even slightly reduced portion sizes.” Smith agrees, pointing to sourcing as a pathway to keeping the value proposition intact. “Tell your guests about the quality of the protein you’re serving in these modern entrées,” she says. “The

ones that truly sing in this new symphony of ingredients are thoughtfully raised, mindfully sourced—proteins with a good narrative behind them. A good example here is Australian lamb, which is pasture-raised and grass-fed, two terms that resonate with today’s diners.” That principle of quality over quantity is not new in foodservice, and has been influencing the definition of value for a number of years now. With entrées, the imperative to get that equation right is crucial, balanced against the built-in expectation of a larger-sized dish. What does value look like to modern consumers? “Premium attributes help prove the value of a reduced portion of animal protein,” says Molde. “Another important part is pointing out the filling attributes of plant-based proteins, using terms like ‘protein-packed’ with quinoa or other whole grains on the plate, for example. This will help consumers understand the value better, addressing concerns that they might not feel full or get their money’s worth.”

Jamie Carawan, VP of food and beverage innovation for sports-bar chain Twin Peaks, based in Dallas, worked up an entrée that expresses all of these values really well: the Adobo Crusted Skirt Steak, a grass-fed steak with smoked ancient grains, summer sauté of sweet corn and grilled okra, roasted vegetable purée and toasted chickpeas. “We went with a smaller portion of meat, six ounces, focusing on quality there while making the vegetables and grains the heroes, too,” he says. “There is a lot of attention to detail in this dish, making sure we still get high satisfaction from our guests.” And the build is still very much connected to Twin Peaks’ brand — another important consideration when exploring new strategies.

Forwarding the Brand That notion of brand tie-in guides much of menu development, and can also help set guardrails. “At CraftWorks, we have advantages within our brands that start with the idea of crafted experiences around beer and food,” says Frankenthaler. “That’s our point of difference, but we still serve a broad audience. Our guests are mainstream diners seeking safe but differentiated experiences.”

His challenge with entrée development, then, is a similar one faced by a large number of restaurant brands wanting to remain competitive. “Our guests want us to give them something unique to our brand that doesn’t stray too far from familiar,” he says. “With that in mind, we’re working through how to evolve. On the entrée side, it feels important that we move toward the lighter side.” That “lighter side” typically translates to fewer calories. The challenge is making those lighter options offer value and appeal to the majority of guests who aren’t necessarily looking to “be good.” “The success of those dishes has to live beyond stereotypical constituencies of diners who order specifically around gluten-free or Paleo, etc. We have to hang on to who we are as a brand while moving the brand forward,” says Frankenthaler. He’s doing that with dishes that boast both broad appeal and a wholesome promise. Rock Bottom’s Voodoo Ahi, a limited time offering (LTO) rolling out later this spring, captures the idea of flavor complexity and value, with spicy seasoned ahi tuna steak, seared and served over seasonal char-grilled vegetables with red rice, then topped with warm

“

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you pay attention to each element, you really elevate the dish.

STEVE STURM, FIREBIRDS WOOD FIRED GRILL

Featured Dishes PREVIOUS PAGE - LEFT: Firebird's Wood Fired Grill's Guajillo-Mocha Rubbed Lamb Chops entrée demonstrates a modern approach, with flavor punches throughout the build, including

pumpkin-seed

pesto and ancho demi. PREVIOUS PAGE - RIGHT: The Lemon-Basil Salmon at Firebirds Wood Fired Grill buddies up to a flavor-forward and

distinctive

cool

salad

of organic red quinoa, pearl barley, spring peas, radish, toasted pecans, grilled corn and goat cheese.

OPPOSITE: Twin Peaks' Jamie Carawan is developing an Adobo Crusted Steak, a modern entrée with no trade down: six ounces of grass-fed beef, smoked ancient grains, sauté of corn and okra, roasted vegetable purée and fried chickpeas.

The Citrus Steak, another upcoming LTO, features a 5-oz. citrus-marinated steak, char-grilled and topped with whiskey and citrus herb sauces, served with char-grilled seasonal vegetables and cilantro-lime rice. “The five-ounce size gives the steak-eater a nice portion with good satiety and great flavor,” he says. He’s positioning these LTOs in the mid-range of pricing for entrées. “There’s big visual appeal with these, with components that add complexity of flavor, texture and aroma. The value perception is important, so we don’t run it in the highest price-point part of the menu.” That perception — where value is conveyed through quantity — is also shifting, guided by consumer preference and demand. “Guest behaviors and preferences are changing, so it’s important to keep an eye on your current loyal guest while trying to reach for new ones— but understand that your current guest is changing too,” says Pam Smith. Datassential’s Molde agrees: “The latest research shows that consumers are looking for a carefully balanced dish, with less animal protein and more interesting combinations of grains and vegetables.”

Flavor Builds the Narrative It’s not a surprise that flavor needs to stay in sharp focus here. Modern entrées have to tell a compelling flavor story that fits into the way diners want to eat. “We can’t just concentrate on the center of the plate with entrée development,” says Firebirds’ Sturm. “All of the components need to be compelling

— there’s no solo star anymore. And when you pay attention to each element, you really elevate the dish.” Firebirds’ Guajillo-Mocha Rubbed Lamb Chops with a red quinoa and spring vegetable pilaf, ancho demi, pumpkin-seed pesto and an avocado-coconut-lime popsicle illustrate the modern sensibility. “We rubbed the Aussie lamb with guajillo, cocoa and coffee, applying layers of flavor to the dish and featuring an emerging chile for added interest,” he says. “We don’t need to serve a huge portion of lamb because it’s rich, but you still need to present a full plate.” The grains in the dish help add dimension. “We’re looking at grain salads to help us with entrée development because the let us feature seasonal products and help us get different textures on the plate,” says Sturm. That complexity of flavor and texture goes back to the all-important value proposition. “It’s about adding value through thoughtful flavor-building and sourcing,” says Eric Stangarone, founder of Food Thinking, a food innovation consultancy in San Francisco. “It’s still about adding more seasonality, more heirloom, more niche products. You have to tell a story with your food.” That translates into serious attention to detail. “The quality of each component has to deliver, so we’re working harder on the composition of the entrée,” says Frankenthaler. “We’re throwing chickpeas into kale-quinoa bases for some of our entrées, or trying to get bigger flavor by basting with a thinned down pesto or beer sauce. We’re flipping the starch/vege-

table ratio. It’s much more intentional, much less ‘veg of the day.’” Sturm agrees with the need for an elevated flavor narrative, as demonstrated in his Pacific Halibut, another spring LTO, served with cauliflower mash and sautéed asparagus with a lemon-caper butter sauce drizzle. “We’re playing with cauliflower a lot,” he says. “We’ve got a Sriracha-honey cauliflower taco in one market test right now.” At Rock Bottom, an entrée offering of Smoked Chicken Tostadas is a thoroughly modern dish with layers of flavor, featuring pulled chicken, pepper jack and grilled onions, topped with guacamole, romaine, black bean-corn salsa, pico de gallo, pickled red onion and Mexican crema. “It’s been a top seller since we introduced it,” says Frankenthaler. Thoughtful menu strategy is so important, with consumer expectation at an all-time high. “Operators

have to continue to think about their entrées as a portfolio of options that offer flavor excitement and variety while linking to the brand,” says Stangarone. “They could also consider either doing large-format entrées designed to share or serve family-style. Think about the theater in a whole roast chicken served in a cast-iron skillet for a few people to share—that delivers big perceived value.” Designing modern entrées that can stand toe-to-toe with the other innovative parts of the menu helps give your guests another reason to visit. “We’re in a battle for share,” says Frankenthaler. “Modern development of the entrée is around appeal and purchase intent, and knowing your guests and capturing new visitors. The lead for this is big flavor.”

KATIE AYOUB is a managing editor of Flavor & the Menu. katie@getflavor.com.

6 RESTAURANT RULES YOU CAN FORGET ABOUT Even at upscale restaurants, old rules are going by the wayside. By Jillian Kramer Food and Wine Magazine

High-end restaurants can be seen as stuffyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;filled with "rules" we must observe from the second we walk in the door. Think of etiquette standbys like: Use each piece of silverware at the right time or never stretch for the salt shaker. But luckily for modern-day diners, many of those rules have gone by the wayside. "With this new age of artisanal products, housemade everything, and locally sourced ingredients, restaurants have become places that reflect their community as opposed to cathedrals with angry Frenchmen," says James Garrido, general manager of Henley in Nashville. "This is exciting, and genuine. So no, you do not have to behave a certain way at a restaurant." In fact, here are six old-school fancy restaurant rules you can (basically) forget about forever.

2. Look past white table cloths White tablecloths topping restaurant tables used to be a sign of fine dining. But now, "when you're looking for a restaurant, there is no longer a need to seek out the phrase white tablecloth," says chef David Burke, of Tavern62 New York. "Nice restaurants all over are cutting costs and cutting the traditional white linen." So how can you spot an upscale spot these days? "Look at the menu and reviews," Burke says.

3. Get your reach on

1. Forget about those special place settings. "Over the last ten years, more and more upscale restaurants have, mercifully, seen the end of huge place settings with three forks, two knives, three wine glasses and a charger beneath the plate," says Garrido. Why? All those shiny extra doodads are not only unnecessary, Garrido explains, but they "intimidate millennials who are coming into their own professionally—and financially— and frankly, who just want solidly prepared, sustainable, fresh food, with less pomp and circumstance." That means that fancy restaurant patrons—from millennials to Baby Boomers—can forget what, exactly, they're supposed to with that extra fork or that teeny, tiny silver spoon.

While it was once considered rude to reach across the table for a salt shaker, Garrido says stretching for the salt—or anything else you need, like a hunk of warm bread—is no longer a big deal. "I mean, don't knock a candle onto your mother-in-law's lap or anything," he laughs, "but with the huge influx we've seen in communal dining and small plates, and our Instagram-sharing culture, we are all here to have a shared experience. It's not important you stay in your bubble and that I stay in mine; we're here to dine together."

4. Don't fake it 'til you make it Amateur wine lovers will savor the death of this rule. "A new relaxation in fine dining rules and stigmas is that there is absolutely no need to act like you know what you are doing when the server or sommelier starts talking about wine," says Garrido. "This crop of wine and beverage professionals are extremely casual and will always help you find something you will love in a price point you are comfortable with."

In other words, you don't have to study the wine menu before making an (un)educated guess. "Just tell your server what you like and we'll find something for you to try," Garrido says.

5. Leave your tie at home. While some fancy restaurants still observe strict dress codes that include a necktie for men, most have relaxed their requirements, Burke says. "Suits and ties have gone away," he says, "though it's still a courtesy to fellow diners to look nice." You can leave your tie at home and instead, "pick a blazer or nice sweater," Burke says.

6. Save your cash. According to Garrido, "Gone are the days when you could get a table by slipping $20 in a not-so-subtle-handshake. Reservation systems are here and they have—with some help from Silicon Valley—helped to make restaurant seating as efficient as possible." So save your $20 for the cab ride home—your bribes are no longer good in fine dining spots. "If you are at a busy restaurant, it's just busy," says Garrido. "There isn't really a Ray Liotta in Goodfellas table for you that they can bring out from the back."

Just tell your server what you like and we'll find something for you to try -James Garrido

featured on webstaurantstore.com For many people, meals are a major part of celebrating the holidays. Whether you're at a restaurant or a private event, holiday food can help create a festive atmosphere and make the occasion special. You may have your main courses all planned out, but selecting the best holiday appetizers can be tricky. With cheeses, breads, meats, and more to choose from, the options are overwhelming. Keep reading for our easy appetizer ideas that complete your holiday meal without taking too much preparation time.

1. Dips and Cheeses When building a menu of easy holiday appetizers, dips and cheeses are a great place to start. These small plates can be sweet or savory, and they pair excellently with fruits, vegetables, crackers, and breads. Their varied colors and textures also are great for creating centerpieces at festive table settings. Here are some ideas to dress up plain dips and cheese for the holidays: • • • •

Spinach and artichoke dip with pita chips Broccoli cheddar dip with toast points Pecan-crusted cream cheese ball with wheat crackers Baked brie with caramelized pears

2. Canapes and Crostini Canapes come from French cuisine and traditionally are small pieces of bread or pastry topped with savory ingredients like vegetables, meats, and more.

These appetizers are also characterized by an elegant appearance. This being said, the term “canapes” is now often used to describe decorative and bite-sized hors d’oeuvres, regardless of their components. Crostini, on the other hand, are Italian in origin and are typically larger than canapes, and they are always served on toasted or fried bread. These two types of appetizers are similar, with slight differences in preparation. They can be hot or cold and include endless flavor combinations. For an enticing presentation, display canapes and crostini on rustic bread boards. Try these ideas to add canapes and crostini to your holiday menu: • • • •

Puff pastry squares topped with spinach and feta Sliced baguette topped with smoked salmon, dill, and cream cheese Toasted bread with butternut squash, sage, and ricotta cheese Grilled bread with olive oil, garlic, basil, and diced tomatoes (known as bruschetta)

3. Rolls, Biscuits, and Quick Breads These are some of the best holiday appetizers for a crowd. You can serve them with dinner, or you can put them out before your meal with the rest of your small plates. Because of their tendency to be sweet, quick breads can even be paired with coffee and tea after dinner. These holiday appetizers are easy to coordinate with any flavors already present in your menu, or they can add some new, inventive flavors to your meal. To please a crowd, try these easy roll, biscuit, and quick bread ideas: • • • •

Parmesan-topped rolls served with herb butter Buttermilk biscuits served with apple butter Cranberry bread topped with an orange glaze Pumpkin bread topped with candied pecans

4. Meat and Seafood Bites

These small plates are a great way to hold your guests over while you prepare the holiday feast. When serving these satisfying appetizers, though, the key is to make small portions that are easy to serve. Otherwise, these starters could end up overshadowing your other courses.

Bring heartiness to your starter course with these easy meat-based appetizer ideas: • • • •

Bacon-wrapped scallops Miniature meatballs in a cranberry sauce Sausage-stuffed bell peppers Shrimp cocktail

5. Appetizers Inspired by Tapas Originally from Spanish cuisine, tapas are small, savory dishes that are typically served with cocktails. They vary greatly in flavor and complexity, but you can expect these small plates to bring some new tastes and vibrant colors to your meal. When plating, use slate serving trays to make these appetizers pop. Here are some simple appetizers inspired by tapas that can make your holiday menu stand out: • • • •

Whole almonds coated in smoked paprika Dates wrapped in Serrano ham Roasted figs stuffed with goat cheese and drizzled with honey Chorizo poached in red wine

6. Vegetables For more options to cater to a crowd, incorporate some vegetable-centric appetizers. You don’t need to put out carrot and celery sticks to make sure you accommodate any vegetarian guests. Vegetables are some of the most versatile ingredients you can use for small plates. For extra flair, consider pickling your favorite vegetables to enhance their natural flavors. Here are some vegetarian appetizer ideas for your holiday meal: • • • •

Quick pickled red onions with fresh greens on toast Candied carrots with honey, cumin, and paprika Roasted potatoes with rosemary and olive oil Mushrooms stuffed with Pecorino Romano, garlic, and bread crumbs

This holiday season, you can save time with these easy appetizer ideas. These starters don't require much preparation time, and many of them can be customized to perfectly complement your existing menu items. When planning your next event or meal service, use this blog as inspiration for your holiday appetizer offerings.

NEW MENU ITEMS by Chef Dan Butler

Introducing

FIRST APPEARANCE

A classic "Frank & Ernest" comic strip shows the characters as restaurant owners. "We never have to change our menu," Frank says. Ernest adds happily, "Yeah! No one ever eats here twice."

reason they're so loyal. It's a hard lesson to remember that what's important is what your customer likes and not necessarily what you like.

Well, certainly your restaurant is different (otherwise reading this article will offer considerably less help than you need). Of course, all restaurants depend on repeat customers. The importance of keeping the experience fresh for those customers can't be underestimated.

Developing a new dish for a restaurant menu is a much more complicated task than one might think. Given a set of ingredients, any good chef can "riff" some dishes like a jazz trumpeter given a good bass line and beat. After all, creativity is what makes a chef a chef.

The novelty of creating and serving fresh menu items can stir up a lackadaisical staff and give the creative chef a chance to strut his stuff. But making wholesale menu changes can be a major upheaval all around the restaurant. From the kitchen to the floor to the back office, the first day of a new menu can be a hectic event. With the option of printing menus in the back office, it's easier than ever to tweak menu items and bring about change in more manageable steps.

Change Is Not Always Good As important as it is to offer new items and shake up the status quo from time to time, many customers who come to the restaurant come for their favorite dish.

Think carefully before changing menu items just for the sake of change. Remember that just because you're tired of seeing the same-old steak au poivre vert served night after night, it doesn't mean that your customers are. Even your best customers might come in once a month. So while you've seen the dish 600 times this month, your best customer has seen it once. And it may well be the

More Than a Flick of the Bic

But while the home cook can go to market, find fresh ingredients, and make a terrific meal, the variables that a chef needs to contemplate before yanking a menu item or presenting a new one are innumerable. A chef's considerations when introducing new menu items include: • • • • • • •

Quick prep time. Consistency of preparation. Food cost. Ingredient availability. Keeping with the restaurant's concept. Maintaining proper menu variety. Wondering if the customers will love it.

Prep time. One of the most important aspects about a new dish is its prep time - the time it takes for a cook to take the item from raw material (or blanched or otherwise prepped) to plate. The intended pace of a meal will vary from restaurant to restaurant, and timing is hugely important in setting the tone of the diner's experience. Management often dictates time goals for service of each course. In fact, those goals are often discussed at management and kitchen meetings (often with crumpled timestamped tickets used as evidence for one camp or the other).

Some operators depend on quick turnaround. It's not unusual for their kitchens to turn out appetizers within three minutes of the order's arrival and the main course within 20 minutes. This quick pace can leave servers clearing appetizer dishes like a bee circling its hive. A whole roasted red snapper with olive butter and Mediterranean mussels probably isn't going to make it on this menu. One can only imagine the panic that hits the kitchen when welldone porterhouse is ordered. However, meats that are thinly cut and can be cooked at high temperatures or grilled, or even roasted items that are held at temperature help achieve the goal of speedy service and quick dining room turnover. New menu items should be tailored or even "engineered" to fit the style and speed of service desired. Consistency of preparation. In a restaurant setting there is probably no more important quality than "consistency." No one wants to hear "Our meal wasn't very good. I think the chef was off tonight." The indications of such a comment are bad for a number of reasons:

28 32

1. The chef can't train the cooks to carry on in his absence. 2. The chef might never get another night off. 3. What if the chef wasn't off? When considering new dishes, keep in mind that this dish will be made over and over again - 20 or 30 times a night. They must be able to be duplicated in the heat of the moment of a busy meal service by a cook who usually is not as talented as the chef. It's inevitable that, left to his own devices, when presented a new dish to prepare, a line cook will distill the recipe down to its simplest possible preparation while abiding by the letter of the item's menu description. It's a matter of survival for the line cook -- anything to stay "out of the weeds." Especially during the first few meal services, it's very important that the chef monitor the preparation of new items very closely to make sure that the cook is carrying out the chef's vision. Once the smallest chink in the armor is permitted, the dish starts on the slippery slope to becoming unrecognizable.

There is nothing wrong with wanting to stay on the culinary cutting edge. Before you introduce a new menu item, here are some pointers on how to do it without disrupting your concept or operations.

Pre-searing duck breasts or pre-sautĂŠing mushrooms and holding them until the orders come in will save time but can rob the dish of its intended result. And if a new dish includes a cooking technique that requires the chef's attention each time it's ordered, the efficiency of the line is in jeopardy, as are the prospects of the chef's night off. Food cost. It's fun to look for inspiration from dramatic cookbook authors, like Alfred Portale or glossy magazines like Arte Culinaire. Publications like these get a chef's creative juices charging and he'll want his dishes to look more like works of art (or architecture). But temper that enthusiasm with some realism. None of that artistry or effort will do the restaurant any good if customers won't pay for it. A new dish should always be "costed out" before it earns a place on the menu. It's a fairly simple exercise to determine how much a dish costs. Multiplying the cost by three or four accurately targets a nice 33 percent or even 25 percent food cost. But a more appropriate question might be, "How can we prepare this dish at a given price point?" Or alternatively, "What can we offer at that price point?" If most of the dishes on the menu are within the range

of say, $18 to $25, it's a moot point that a veal chop with exotic mushrooms and truffle butter yields a nice 30 percent food cost at a menu price of $34 if price sensitivity prevents customers from buying it. (Some operators might see that as reason enough to keep the awesome veal chop an unpriced "verbalized special.") If the chef is given a parameter of a $26 selling price, he might choose veal medallions instead (and maybe hold the truffle butter). Also when costing out new menu items, be careful to calculate on the entire cost of the item, including any extra expense for its accompaniments, waste that might be inherent to the preparation (like inconsistent carving) or waste of unused product (like the aforementioned roasts). Availability. On the East Coast, during the hot summer months when soft-shell crabs are in season, it's almost obligatory to work them onto the menu. Even at the height of the season they're expensive and their shelf life is about the same as a scooped ice cream cone in July, but they're such a widely appreciated delicacy that most chefs can't resist putting them on the menu. "Seasonality" is a new buzzword in menu writing. More and more chefs are making connections with local growers and writing their menus based on the

best available ingredients instead of basing their menu on their whim and scrambling to find the ingredients to satisfy it. Even though airfreight, hot houses and hydroponics have made nearly all ingredients available virtually year-round, there's no comparison to the quality and price of full in-season locally grown products. Local products can afford to be more delicate (and flavorful) and much more likely to be chemical-free because the stress of shipping is almost diminished. Chefs who write their menu based on seasonality take advantage of terrific products at terrific prices, but they understand that their menu will need to be changed as soon as the availability of their ingredients naturally begins to dwindle. Keep with the concept. In a contemporary kitchen, a lot of leeway is granted for creativity. Esca, a terrific Italian restaurant in New York, serves raw fish, (called "crudo" - literally "raw" in Italian) with a variety of sublimely flavored olive oils. Another interesting feature about Esca is that it happens to be one of Mario Batali's restaurants and therefore enjoys instant credibility. Contrary to their own opinions, not all restaurateurs have the same pedigree as Batali and might not be able to get away with serving sashimi in an Italian restaurant (to be fair, Esca and Mario didn't invent crudos but their success has spawned a crudo craze). New dishes, with few noteworthy exceptions, should be in keeping with the cuisine or theme already established in the restaurant. The challenge of boosting the bottom line with menu cross-utilization takes on a fairly big hurdle when crack-and-eat hard shell crabs are added to a menu with Indian cuisine. Menu variety. While new menu items shouldn't stray too far afield from existing ones, neither should they be so similar as to steal sales from the current menu items. It doesn't help the new or the old menu items to have nearly indistinguishable items.

To the thinking of many managers (especially ones with accounting degrees) the ideal menu appeals to

the broadest number of customers with the fewest possible entries. This concept keeps inventory low, and saves on labor and on waste. So if your customers rave about your cioppino, hinting that they love seafood stew, you'd do well to avoid the temptation to add bouillabaisse and maintain your robust sales of cioppino. But will they love it? It really is the most important question when considering a new menu item. With all the considerations that a chef takes in when deciding to replace an item, by far and away the most common factor is poor sales. For some strange reason, the customers just aren't buying the tempura frog legs with quince pudding. The chef's creativity, careful attention to proper pricing, menu positioning, and staff training is for naught if the dish doesn't deliver rave reviews from the customers. And while there's "no accounting for people's taste" there is a lot that can be done before the item is unveiled that can ensure its success.

Conceive It

Chefs draw inspiration from a wide array of sources. Cookbooks, television shows and other chefs (like Nobu's miso-glazed black cod) or even purveyor's bid sheets (i.e., "halibut is a bargain this month"). No matter the source, a chef will always prepare a dish with his interpretation, the same way any

artist does. But unlike a painter, a chef must please his audience (or find work elsewhere). So it's smart to have a few different options. Before presenting the dish, the chef does well to "play with some ideas" first, much the same way an artist creates a sketch before undertaking a major oeuvre. This often takes place at the end of a shift and can involve collaboration with his cooks and can be the most rewarding moments of a chef's otherwise difficult daily grind.

Take It for a Test Drive

When the chef is ready to have the dish tasted, form an informal "focus group" to give honest opinions about the dish. A "critiquing" session is too strong a word for this step. More apt is to call it a prescreening. The idea of co-workers, even subordinates, critiquing his work can make even the most secure chef bristle.

-making process, their commitment to its success is nearly guaranteed. Remember the axiom, "People are much more likely to get behind an idea when they think it's theirs." Now the most logical and easiest way to present a dish to the public in careful steps is to offer it as a nightly special. Think of the dish's debut as a special as a dress rehearsal. All the aspects of a well-prepared restaurant dish should be on the plate - balance of flavors, textures, eye appeal - and the chef should be ready to receive the applause of the crowd. By soliciting (I mean, really asking) the customers' honest thoughts and responding to them, a dish can finally claim a spot on the menu.

The group should include the manager, some trusted key servers and the sommelier (if one exists) to analyze the dish for potential wine pairings. The payoff for including these people is twofold. Of course, as competent professionals their opinion is respected, but also, as they are involved in the decision

Everything You Need to Know

ABOUT CIDER

And we're not talking about the sweet juice you get every year at the farmers' market. Here's how to buy and store the hard stuff.

Exactly what the Pilgrims and the Wampanoag Indians drank on that first Thanksgiving in 1621 is up for debate, because no definitive record exists. Water, beer, wine, cider—any one of them could have been poured at the historic, three-day feast. What historians do agree on is that until the early 20th century, when beer-making ramped up thanks to an influx of German immigrants and the spread of wheat and barley crops, cider was our nation’s beverage of choice. Let’s be clear. This isn't the sweet drink your kids pound from foam cups after an apple-picking excursion, but the crisp, complex, alcoholic beverage made from pressed apples that Europeans were quaffing long before us. You can be forgiven for thinking they’re nearly the same. While what we know as hard cider is enjoying a renaissance, with craft cider–makers and cider-

focused restaurants on the upswing, there is no shortage of cloyingly sweet options on the market, either. To better understand the drink of our forefathers and how to navigate the present-day selection, I talked to Dan Pucci, beverage director of one such restaurant, Wassail, in New York, and Jeff Alworth, author of the 2015 book Cider Made Simple: All About Your New Favorite Drink.

WHAT IS CIDER? Fermented apple juice, basically. Take the freshly pressed liquid from apples, let fruit-borne or added yeast do its thing—namely, eat up the sugars within—and you’ve got cider. It can be sparkling or still. It can veer dry or get funky. It depends on what sort of apples went into it and how it was made.

You might unwittingly have some in the making at home. Remember that carton of sweet cider you bought at the farmer’s market, stuck in the back of your fridge and promptly forgot about, and now it’s started to swell? That’s fermentation at work, says Pucci. Leave it long enough, and it'll turn from a kid-friendly beverage into one for adults.

WHY DO WE CALL IT "HARD CIDER"? To distinguish it from the non-alcoholic drink, which is essentially super-fresh, unfiltered apple juice. The phrase "hard cider" came into play after Prohibition, when beer eclipsed cider in popularity and apple orchards dedicated to cider production were torn up or converted to juice production. But you can stop calling it that now, Alworth argues in his book. "Fermented apple juice is cider, just cider," he writes.

HOW POTENT IS IT? Cider can range from as low as 3 percent ABV for some French cidres to upwards of 10 percent, but generally, it occupies the 6 to 8 percent range for alcohol content, according to Alworth.

HOW ‘BOUT DEM APPLES A good deal of American cider is made from apple varieties we eat and cook with, such as Winesaps and Golden Russets. But the best ciders use apples that are extremely tart and tannic, many of which are forgotten varieties being rediscovered. With their high levels of acid and sugar, these apples are really only good for cider. “You’d never want to eat them,” says Pucci.

CIDER STYLES Mass-market cider is what probably comes to mind first for most of us. It’s one note—sweet—and produced within a few days, two weeks tops, not from pressed apples but from apple juice concentrate mixed with water, sugar, and other additives. “A Frankenstein beverage,” Alworth calls it. On the other end are craft ciders and highly seasonal traditional ciders. Made by small producers—in the latter case, on the orchard where the apples are grown—these are as varied as craft beer and can take three, six, nine months to make.

This is what the current American cider revival is centered on, and it’s happening in apple-growing regions such as New England, New York, Michigan, Washington, and Oregon.

CIDER AROUND THE WORLD England, France, and Spain, the three main players on cider’s world stage, have distinct styles. England makes plenty of ciders similar to our own mass-market brands, but its traditional farmhouse cider, called scrumpy, tends to be drier and more complex, and can be still or sparkling. French cidre comes from the northern regions of Normandy and Brittany. This is elegant stuff: sweet, tannic, and naturally sparkling, the result of a unique process called keeving that removes nutrients in the juice, causing the yeast to “freak out” over a long, slow fermentation, says Pucci. The funkiest of the bunch is sidra from Spain’s Asturias and Basque regions. Made from highacid apples, it’s fermented in oak barrels at warmer temperatures and tends to have a “funky, sour beeriness,” Pucci says. Pouring sidra from a certain height isn’t for just show; it aerates the liquid, kickstarting its fruity flavors.

HOW TO BUY CIDER While there are exceptions, most of the cider at the grocery store is mass-produced. If you see apple juice concentrate, sugar, water, and other additives

on the ingredients label, you’ll know. "Those are categorically different beasts, closer to alcoholic teas and seltzers than cider,” Alworth says. Finding high-quality cider can be tricky. Although the packaging may look sharp, what’s inside might still disappoint. “It’s really hard to buy it blindly,” says Pucci. “The marketing is all the same.” So don’t judge by the label, and buy from a wine shop or liquor store you trust, where you can ask questions. Pucci also encourages buying from small, local producers. And then start sipping. With such a range of products from emerging and established cider makers, the only way to figure out your taste preferences is to, well, taste.

CIDER STORAGE Store your cider as you do your wine, at room or cellar temperature. It will keep well for several months thanks to its acids and tannins, says Alworth. There are some ciders that taste better after several years. “Most don’t have these kinds of legs, but it’s good to know that if you fall in love with a rich, tannic cider, you can lay it down and sample it every couple years,” Alworth says. You can chill cider once you're ready to pour—say, for Thanksgiving dinner?—but not for too long. "Most cider is served too cold," Pucci says.

winter squash

by Marisa Moore

learn more about each species on the following pages

With origins in Mexico and Central America, winter squash was a staple crop among Native Americans, who ate the flowers, flesh and seeds of the plant and used the gourds as containers and utensils. The name "winter squash" is a little deceptive. Though many are grown year-round, these gorgeous gourds are typically planted during warmer months and harvested before the first frost. When stored in cool, dry conditions, winter squash can be enjoyed throughout the late fall and winter - thus the name. With a few exceptions, such as spaghetti squash, winter squash is a good source of beta-carotene, vitamin C, potassium and fiber. The seeds - roasted or dried - are a great snack and a good source of protein and magnesium, among other nutrients. Often enjoyed in cooler months, winter squash pack tons of flavor and remarkable versatility in the kitchen. Although these gourds can be eaten raw, the flesh takes on a smooth, creamy texture and flavors come alive when cooked. Winter squash can be enjoyed in sweet or savory preparations and often is roasted, though baking, boiling and microwaving are also common cooking methods. Season it with maple syrup, ginger or cinnamon, or add onion, garlic and herbs for a savory flavor. Although all types feature a brilliant yellow or orange flesh inside, winter squash come in sizes large and small, and the outside can be smooth or bumpy and any shade of red, yellow, green and blue. A few have edible rinds, though most do not. Size varies from the 1- to 2-pound sweet dumpling to the hubbard squash, which can weigh more than 20 pounds. Choose firm squash with no soft spots or blemishes and those that are heavy for their size. Go beyond popular pumpkin and butternut squashes and explore new, flavorful ways to brighten any fall or winter plate.

Marisa Moore, MBA, RDN, LD, is a consultant based in Atlanta and teaches nutrition at Georgia State University.

winter squash Kabocha Squash

"Kabocha" is a Japanese word for squash. Less fibrous than other gourds, kabocha's smooth yellow pulp is sweet with notes of honey and becomes custardy when cooked. Kabocha is ideal purĂŠed for soup of pie filling and available year-round in green and red varieties.

Acorn Squash

Shaped like its namesake, the acorn squash is available year-round. At only 1 to 2 pounds, acorn squash boasts chart-topping fiber at 9 grams per cup and delivers more than 25 percent of the recommended daily value of potassium. The tough exterior makes it ideal for roasting with the skin on.

Delicata Squash

Oblong with telltale green stripes, this squash boasts smooth, creamy flesh and sweet flavor. Delicata squash is delicious simply roasted or stuffed with whole grains or other savory fillings. Pair with Parmesan, nuts and woodsy herbs such as rosemary for a savory spin.

Butternut Squash

With gorgeous orange flesh and a mild, sweet flavor, butternut squash is an excellent source of vitamins C and A, with more than 6 grams of fiber per cup. Enjoy this gourd year-round roasted or tossed into soup, stew or smoothies.

Red Kuri Squash

Sometimes called the baby red hubbard, red kuri squash is native to Japan. Its smooth and creamy yellow pulp has a chestnut like flavor. Because of its hard rind, the red kuri is best roasted in the skin and scooped out to enjoy.

Sweet Dumpling Squash

Sweet Dumpling Squash is the petite one of the bunch, weighing in at less than 2 pounds. With a tender, edible rind, the sweet dumpling squash can be cut in half, stuffed and roasted for a quick and colorful meal.

Carnival Squash

A hybrid of acorn and sweet dumpling squash, carnival squash looks like a party on the outside. Roasting brings out its rich, buttery and sweet flavors. Use it in any recipe as a substitute for acorn or butternut squash.

Sugar Pumpkin

Squat and sweet, the sugar pumpkin is one of the most popular winter squashes and provides fewer than 50 calories per cup. Roast or purée it into soup, pie filling and other desserts, or oatmeal. Always available, sugar pumpkin is commonly canned and available at supermarkets.

Buttercup Squash

Tough to peel when raw, buttercup squash boasts a sweet pump that's firm and somewhat dry. With a rich flavor akin to sweet potato, this gourd is best baked with the skin on, steamed or puréed.

Spaghetti Squash

Significantly lower in vitamin A than other squash, this pale yellow variety delivers a crunchy, stringy flesh resembling noodles when cooked. A nice substitute for pasta, the mild slightly sweet flavor is a perfect canvas for olive oil or tomato-based sauces.

Hubbard Squash

With a dark green, orange or pale blue rind, hubbard squash can reach up to 20 pounds. The sweet, grainy flesh makes it ideal for mashing or puréeing into a sauce or filling for pie.

how to make the most

of private events

By: Stephanie Ganz of the Apple Cart

Private events and buyouts can present a profitable opportunity for your restaurant if they’re managed properly. But lack of planning will be apparent quickly to both staff and guests, so it’s important to visualize what you want to accomplish by offering these options to the public and then creating a plan that your entire staff understands.

Put on Your Party (Planning) Hat

Imagine yourself in the party planner role. What questions come to mind first? Answering those easy questions on your website will make it easier for potential customers to determine if your restaurant is a fit before wasting their or your time. They will likely want to know: • • • • •

How many guests can the space accommodate seated or standing What staff is provided, and are there additional costs for staffing Any extra services that may be available, such as DJs Can guests bring X And of course, costs

It’s not necessary or even beneficial to get into the weeds of pricing on your website, but providing a starting point or a ballpark for buyouts and private events can help people make the right choice for their needs.

Know Your Costs and Your Take

Before advertising that your restaurant offers buyouts and private event spaces, run the numbers to determine what your costs are and what you need to make in order for these events to be worthwhile. Also consider the impact that closing your restaurant for an evening can have on other potential guests (make sure to let people know if you’re going to be closed for a private event well in advance and on the day-of via social media). Take a look at what your costs will be for food and staffing, including setting up, breaking down and cleaning up from the event; and then charge accordingly to make sure you are profitable. One way to accomplish this is by creating different packages for different scenarios -- cocktail hours with passed hors d'oeuvres, seated dinner, open or closed bar, etc.

Details Paint the Picture

After you’ve addressed the basics, get specific to your restaurant. Consider why an event planner would want to choose your restaurant instead of a similar competitor. Is your service exceptional, is the venue fun and exciting? What makes your private space different from the rest? Share the details to paint a picture that your guests can see themselves in.

Spread the Word

Your private event space should be featured on your website somewhere that makes sense for potential customers--perhaps with your catering menu or even on its own page. The imagery you use here is important: The guest should be able to imagine having a great time in your space. Provide multiple images of the space with people in it. If necessary, stage a ‘party’ with your friends, family and staff, and then hire a professional photographer to capture the images for web and marketing pieces. You can also use this as an opportunity to train staff on how to handle these events. Consider inviting a few local tastemakers--bloggers, Instagrammers, press or other influencers who can help spread the word about your restaurant’s private dining capabilities. In addition to creating content about your private event space on your website, make sure to note it on any restaurant review sites that have a listing for your restaurant. Share information about the space on social media and in your newsletter, and send a note to local press to remind them that you have a private event space available to large groups. Reach out to the local businesses in your network to remind them that your restaurant offers a private event space and catering, and consider incentivizing event planners to commit early with some sort of early bird discount through September.

Assemble Your Team

On every FOH team, there are employees who are great at handling larger parties and employees who do better in the more intimate settings. Identify who your party people are, and consider them your go-to team for special events. Train your special event staff specifically to be able to handle the unique requirements of these events. Guests at a private event have the expectation that they will have dedicated staff to meet their needs. Don’t try to split staff with responsibilities on the floor and in the private dining room because their attention will be divided. Rather, have dedicated staff present for the duration of your private events, and your guests will appreciate the special attention. Contributed By: Stephanie Ganz. Stephanie is the co-owner of The Apple Cart, a Richmond, VA-based company that helps food businesses start and grow.