THE GENEVA JEWELS AUCTION: ONE GENEVA 6 NOVEMBER 2023
Front cover Lot 110, Fancy Intense Pink diamond ring, weighing 20.19 carats Back cover Lot 108, Yellow sapphire and diamond brooch, ‘Ballerina’, Van Cleef & Arpels Inside front cover Lot 109, Diamond ring, weighing 15.60 carats, Fred Inside back cover Lot 1, Gold demi-parure, ‘Monete,’ Bulgari
THE GENEVA JEWELS AUCTION: ONE GENEVA 6 NOVEMBER 2023 Auction & Viewing Location
Jewellery Department
Auction 6 November 2023, 3pm CET La Réserve Route de Lausanne 301, 1293 Bellevue Under the aegis of Maître Tristan Reymond, Huissier Judiciaire
Worldwide Head of Jewellery
Viewing 31 October–6 November The Ritz-Carlton Hotel de la Paix Quai du Mont-Blanc 11, 1201 Genève 31 October & 1 November: 10am–6.30pm 2 November – 5 November: 10am–7.30pm 6 November: 9am–12pm Sale Designation When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as CH060123 or The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.
Benoît Repellin brepellin@phillips.com International Business Director Myriam Christinazmchristinaz-@phillips.com Business Director Jack Shaw jshaw@phillips.com Specialist Louisa Eyre-Jackson leyrejackson@phillips.com Associate Specialist Roberta Belfer rbelfer@phillips.com
Absentee and Telephone Bids
Cataloguer
Tel +41 22 317 8181 Fax +41 22 317 8180 bidsgeneva@phillips.com
Lara Tabbara ltabbara@phillips.com
Photography
Mary Higonnet mhigonnet@phillips.com
Denis Hayoun, Diode Loïc Herin
Administrator
Sale Info Please refer to Phillips’ website www.phillips.com for the Conditions of Sale applicable to the auction.
Phillips’ Conditions of Sale
PHILLIPS SENIOR EXECUTIVES EDWARD DOLMAN Executive Chairman +1 212 940 1241 edolman@phillips.com
CHEYENNE WESTPHAL Global Chairwoman +44 20 7318 4044 cwestphal@phillips.com
STEPHEN BROOKS Chief Executive Officer +44 0 20 7318 4046 sbrooks@phillips.com
EXECUTIVES JONATHAN CROCKETT
JEAN-PAUL ENGELEN
Chairman, Asia, Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art, Asia +852 2318 2023 jcrockett@phillips.com
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HUGUES JOFFRE
JAMIE NIVEN
DEREK COLLINS
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VANESSA HALLETT
DEPUTY CHAIRMEN & CHAIRWOMEN SVETLANA MARICH
ROBERT MANLEY
PETER SUMNER
MIETY HEIDEN
Worldwide Deputy Chairman +44 20 7318 4010 smarich@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Worldwide Co-Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1358 rmanley@phillips.com
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VIVIAN PFEIFFER
MARIANNE HOET
JEREMIAH EVARTS
CARY LEIBOWITZ
KELLY TROESTER
Deputy Chairman, Americas, Head of Business Development, Americas +1 212 940 1392 vpfeiffer@phillips.com
Deputy Chairwoman, Europe, Senior Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art +32 3257 3026 mhoet@phillips.com
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SCOTT NUSSBAUM
KEVIE YANG
THOMAS PERAZZI
PAUL BOUTROS
ALEXANDRE GHOTBI
Deputy Chairman, Americas, Senior International Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1354 snussbaum@phillips.com
Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Senior International Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1254 kyang@phillips.com
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JAMES MARKS Deputy Chairman, Watches, International Head of Perpetual +44 7760 848 881 jmarks@phillips.com
Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Worldwide Head of Photographs +1 212 940 1243 vhallett@phillips.com
JEWELS DEPARTMENT EUROPE
NEW YORK
CHINA
BENOÎT REPELLIN
EVA VIOLANTE
QING SHEN
Worldwide Head of Jewellery +41 79 313 6845 brepellin@phillips.com
Head of Department, Americas +1 917 717 1506 eviolante@phillips.com
Senior Consultant +86 137 0111 9671 qingshen@phillips.com
LOUISA EYRE-JACKSON
HONG KONG
THAILAND
JANET LAM
RIKA DILA
Senior Specialist +852 5508 3676 janetlam@phillips.com
Senior Consultant +66 818 186 878 rikadila@phillips.com
Specialist +41 79 574 77 13 leyrejackson@phillips.com
ROBERTA BELFER Associate Specialist +41 79 522 92 78 rbelfer@phillips.com
LANE MCLEAN Specialist, Client Liaison +44 20 7318 4032 lmclean@phillips.com
MYRIAM CHRISTINAZ International Business Director +41 22 317 81 84 mchristinaz- @phillips.com
LOUISA CHAN Head of Sale, Specialist +886 2 2758 5505 lchan@phillips.com
KOREA
MINHEE SUH
TAIWAN
Regional Director +82 2 797 8001 msuh@phillips.com
CINDY YEN
YEONAH LIM
General Manager, Taiwan +886 2 2758 5505 cyen@phillips.com
Associate Regional Representative +82 2797 8001 ylim@phillips.com
JACK SHAW
SINGAPORE
Business Director, Jewellery and Perpetual Watches +44 7503 679 779 jshaw@phillips.com
CRISTEL TAN International Specialist +65 9155 1016 cristeltan@phillips.com
CHRISTINE FERNANDO Regional Representative +65 9128 6277 christinefernando@phillips.com
Property of a Lady
1. BULGARI Gold demi-parure, ‘Monete’ Comprising: a necklace, composed of gold flat curb-linking, supporting a fringe of ancient coins, length approximately 370mm; and a pair of ear clips, each signed Bulgari. ESTIMATE CHF 30,000–50,000 $35,000–60,000
2. MAUBOUSSIN Diamond ring Set with a brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 3.11 carats, size 53, signed Mauboussin, numbered, French maker’s mark and assay mark for gold. Accompanied by GIA report no. 2235025877, stating that the diamond is E Colour, VS2 Clarity. ESTIMATE CHF 32,000–50,000 $35,000–55,000
From an Important European Private Collection
3. TIFFANY & CO. Sapphire and diamond bracelet Set with cabochon sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 185mm, signed Tiffany & Co. ESTIMATE CHF 10,000–15,000 $11,000–17,000
4. Emerald and diamond ring
Set with a cabochon emerald stated to weigh 4.69 carats, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, size 51, French import mark for gold. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 116845, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with a minor amount of oil in fissures. ESTIMATE CHF 36,000–55,000 $40,000–60,000
5. STERLÉ Gold and diamond necklace, 1960s Of fringe design, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 430mm, signed Sterlé, numbered, French maker’s mark for Sterlé and assay marks for gold. ESTIMATE CHF 14,000–22,000 $15,000–25,000
6. Ruby and diamond ring Set with an oval ruby weighing 7.17 carats, the shoulders and shank accented with three square-cut diamonds on each side, size 52, indistinct marker’s mark and assay mark. Accompanied by Gubelin report no. 20080020, stating that the ruby is of Mozambique origin, with no indications of heating. ESTIMATE CHF 40,000–55,000 $45,000–60,000
Property of a Lady
7. MAUBOUSSIN Gem-set and diamond parure, circa 1991 Comprising: a necklace, a pair of ear clips and a ring, each set with carved sapphires, rubies and emeralds of foliate design, accented with brilliant-cut diamond borders, necklace length approximately 170mm, ear clips measuring approximately 30mm, ring size 52, each signed Mauboussin, numbered, French assay marks for gold. LITERATURE Marguerite de Cerval, Mauboussin, Paris 1992, page 239 for an illustration of the necklace. ESTIMATE CHF 55,000–90,000 $65,000–100,000
Property of a Lady
8. Diamond ring Set with a marquise-shaped diamond weighing 3.09 carats, accented with circular-cut diamonds, size 48. Accompanied by GIA report no. 2225990040, stating that the diamond is F Colour, VVS2 Clarity. ESTIMATE CHF 22,000–32,000 $25,000–35,000
From an Important European Private Collection
9. HEMMERLE Pair of emerald ear clips The cabochon emeralds set within a mount of blackened gold, one stamped GH for Hemmerle, case stamped Hemmerle. ESTIMATE CHF 13,000–20,000 $15,000–22,000
From an Important European Private Collection
10. HEMMERLE Pair of sapphire ear clips Each cabochon sapphire set within a brushed gold mount, one stamped GH for Hemmerle, case stamped Hemmerle. ESTIMATE CHF 10,000–15,000 $11,000–17,000
Founded in 1893, Hemmerle is a family-run jeweller, recognised globally for its audacity and craftsmanship. Incorporating unique and bold amalgams of material, the designs are as inventive as they are functional. Stones and found objects are sourced through extensive travel and re-purposed when combined with unconventional woods and metals, producing handcrafted pieces that explore the intersection between artistry and engineering. With an ethos centred around pushing boundaries, Hemmerle’s jewels are works of art in themselves, representing unbounded curiosity, technical experimentation, evolving tradition, and aesthetic individuality. Rich in cultural references, the pieces are reflections of the timeless connection between past and present, with heritage at heart and innovation at the horizon. Hemmerle jewels are included in the permanent collections of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum in New York, and the Die Neue Sammlung in Munich.
From an Important Private Collection
11. HEMMERLE Pair of aquamarine ear clips Each set with a cushion-shaped aquamarine, accented with buff-topped calibré-cut aquamarines, maker’s mark for Hemmerle, pouch stamped Hemmerle. ESTIMATE CHF 7,000–10,000 $8,000–11,000
From an Important European Private Collection
12. HEMMERLE Pair of cultured pearl and tagua nut ear clips Each set with tagua nut and a cultured pearl measuring approximately 13.57 x 13.70mm, and 13.74 x 13.51mm, respectively, each signed Hemmerle, maker’s mark for Hemmerle, pouch stamped Hemmerle. ESTIMATE CHF 5,000–8,000 $6,000–9,000
From an Important European Private Collection
13. HEMMERLE Ruby, emerald and sapphire brooch Of floral design, set with a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 3.40 carats, accented with calibré-cut emeralds and similarly cut sapphires, signed Hemmerle, case stamped Hemmerle. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 128830, stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. ESTIMATE CHF 35,000–50,000 $40,000–60,000
Property of a Private Collector
14. HEMMERLE Pair of sapphire cufflinks Each set with a cushion-shaped sapphire, the terminals set with similarly cut smaller sapphires, maker’s mark for Hemmerle. ESTIMATE CHF 10,000–15,000 $11,000–17,000
15. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Pair of ruby and diamond ear clips Each set with circular-cut rubies, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 25mm, each signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, French maker’s mark for Van Cleef & Arpels and assay mark for gold. ESTIMATE CHF 14,000–18,000 $15,000–20,000
Property of a Lady
16. Ruby and diamond bangle Set with calibré-cut rubies, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, inner circumference approximately 160mm. ESTIMATE CHF 4,500–7,500 $5,000–8,000
From a Private Collection
17. Fancy Intense Yellow diamond and gem set ring Set with a brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamond weighing 4.54 carats, accented with circular-cut sapphires, rubies and brilliant-cut diamonds, size 45. Accompanied by GIA report no. 2225986466, stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense Yellow, Natural Colour, VS1 Clarity. ESTIMATE CHF 35,000–55,000 $40,000–60,000
From a Private Collection
18. Fancy Yellow diamond and gem set demi-parure Comprising: a brooch, modelled as a butterfly, set with two brilliant-cut fancy yellow diamonds weighing 1.07 carats and 1.08 carats, accented with circular-cut rubies and sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 42 x 45 x 6mm; together with a pair of ear clips, each set with a brilliant-cut fancy yellow diamond weighing 1.43 carats and 1.54 carats respectively, length approximately 40mm. Accompanied by four GIA reports, stating that the diamonds are Fancy Yellow, Natural Colour, VVS2, VS1, VVS1 and VVS2 Clarity respectively. ESTIMATE CHF 15,000–25,000 $17,000–28,000
Property of a Lady
Σ 19. Coral, onyx, and diamond sautoir and a ring The sautoir set with coral cabochons, highlighted with onyx and brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 340mm, the detachable pendant set with a pear-shaped cabochon coral, accented with onyx and brilliant-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 80 x 22mm, part of the sautoir detachable and can be worn as a bracelet, length approximately 235mm, the ring set with a cabochon coral, highlighted with a halo of brilliant-cut diamonds, size 57. ESTIMATE CHF 12,000–18,000 $14,000–20,000
Property of a Lady
20. Fancy Deep Brownish Yellow diamond ring Set with a cut-cornered square modified brilliant-cut fancy deep brownish yellow diamond weighing 24.07 carats, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, size 52. Accompanied by GIA report no. 222568262, stating that the diamond is Fancy Deep Brownish Yellow, Natural Colour, VS1 Clarity. ESTIMATE CHF 135,000–220,000 $150,000–250,000
Σ 21.
CARTIER Coral and diamond brooch, 1960s Designed as two roses made of carved coral, the leaves set with brilliant-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 60 x 50 x 40mm, signed Cartier, numbered, French maker’s mark for Cartier and export marks for gold. ESTIMATE CHF 14,000–22,000 $15,000–25,000
From an Important Private Collection
22. Diamond ring Set with a circular-cut diamond weighing 8.63 carats, size 52 1/2. ESTIMATE CHF 28,000–45,000 $30,000–50,000
Model wearing lots 24, 26 and 27
BOLD AND INNOVATIVE: PHILLIPS & CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERS
To inaugurate its first jewellery auction in Geneva, Phillips has handpicked five contemporary designers to be featured in the live sale, celebrating its values for innovation, talent, and curiosity. Each maison has entrusted Phillips with two pieces, highlighting their unique creative philosophies and identities. The designers include Maison Alix Dumas, Silvia Furmanovich, Margaret, Viltier and Dries Criel, renowned for their bold ideas, pioneering designs, and striking jewels. The contemporary group comprises a spinel and sapphire ‘Feuilles Birmanes’ ring, signed Maison Alix Dumas, exemplifying the designer’s technical skill and artistic sensibility, and a pair of wood marquetry, pink tourmaline, and diamond ‘Butterfly’ earrings by Silvia Furmanovich, embodying her fascination with the natural world and celebrating the earth’s abundant beauty. Also included in the sale are a pair of aquamarine and diamond earrings by Margaret, exuding romance with their timeless, poetic design, a gold and diamond cuff signed Viltier, fusing traditional sophistication with modern dynamism, as well as a gold, enamel, and diamond ‘Flux’ ring designed by Dries Criel, unveiling the sensuality of abstract form. The selection of contemporary jewels illuminates Phillips’ continued dedication to 20th century craftsmanship, embracing forward-thinking artists, advocating the pursuit of creative development, and encouraging inspired audacity.
23. • MAISON ALIX DUMAS Gold ring, ‘Eternité d’Or’ Of spherical design, size 52, signed Maison Alix Dumas, French maker’s mark and assay mark for gold, case stamped MAD Joaillerie. ESTIMATE CHF 3,000–5,000 $3,500–6,000 LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
24. MAISON ALIX DUMAS Spinel and sapphire ring, ‘Feuilles Birmanes’ Designed as two leaves, set with oval and circular-cut spinels, accented with circular-cut pink sapphires, size 42, signed Maison Alix Dumas, French maker’s mark and assay mark for mixed gold and silver. ESTIMATE CHF 8,000–12,000 $9,000–14,000
Infusing her designs with artistry, Alix Dumas, founder of her eponymous maison, produces pieces that are dedicated to the exploration of colour and form. Akin to a sculptor, she works with her hands and directly with the material, using stones to enhance the natural beauty of metals. The process plays an important role in the creation of her final products, where the designs symbolise a dialogue between creativity and technique, and the results embody emblems of artistic expression. Maison Alix Dumas has won several awards since its founding, including the Best Debuting Award at the Haute Couture Jewellery show in 2023, the Francéclat CSR Prize that same year, the Creativity and Design Award at Milano Jewellery Week and the Artistar – Sculpture to Wear Gallery Award in 2022. In 2021, her ‘Eternity’ ring was awarded the Alchemist Prize for Creative Audacity at the Timeless Jewels Show in Paris, and her ‘Eternity Night’ earrings received the Hand and Creation prize from the Paris District of the Rotary Club International.
25. • SILVIA FURMANOVICH Pair of wood, pink tourmaline and diamond earrings Each modelled as a butterfly, the marquetry wood wing set with a pear-shaped pink tourmaline and the antenna pavéset with brilliant-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 50 x 28 x 2mm, stamped SF for Silvia Furmanovich, case and pouch stamped Silvia Furmanovich. ESTIMATE CHF 5,000–8,000 $6,000–9,000 LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
26. • SILVIA FURMANOVICH Wood and lapis lazuli clutch The marquetry wood clutch applied with butterfly motifs, the oval clasps set with lapis lazuli cabochons, measuring approximately 215 x 140 x 30mm, the interior signed Silvia Furmanovich, dust cover stamped Silvia Furmanovich. ESTIMATE CHF 4,000–6,000 $4,500–7,000 LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
Based in Brazil, Silvia Furmanovich marries her fascination with nature to her respect for craftsmanship, producing remarkable jewels that celebrate the earth’s beauty and diversity. With generations of goldsmiths in her family, Silvia Furmanovich was exposed to the art of working with precious metals from a young age. Inspired by the métier, she eventually began developing herown line of creations, making sure to keep the handicraft tradition alive. Collaborating with artisans from the Amazon, she incorporates an array of new materials in her pieces, including wood marquetry, shells, and bamboo, enriching her jewels with a kaleidoscope of colour, texture, and volume, and sharing the natural wonders of the rainforest with her global community. A visionary and an innovator, Silvia Furmanovich’s bold designs pay tribute to native, historical, and foreign cultures, and stand as symbols of nature’s wearable art. Silvia Furmanovich won three prizes for innovation at the Couture Design Award in 2015, 2016 and 2019. In 2018, her India Collection was the recipient of the Town & Country Jewellery Award, and in 2019, she was nominated for the Jewellery Design Award at the Jewellers of America’s GEM Awards.
27. MARGARET Pair of aquamarine and diamond earrings, ‘Chevron’ Each set with a cushion-shaped aquamarine, accented with single-cut diamonds set in foliate motifs, clip fittings, length approximately 76mm, signed Margaret, numbered. ESTIMATE CHF 40,000–60,000 $45,000–65,000
28. MARGARET Pearl, diamond and gold bangle, ‘Five Stars’ Set with graduated pearls, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds pavé-set in star motifs, inner circumference approximately 145mm, signed Margaret, numbered, pouch and box stamped Margaret. Please note that the pearls have not been tested for natural origin. ESTIMATE CHF 25,000–35,000 $28,000–38,000
Born from the collaboration between Oriana Melamed Sabrier and Candice Ophir, Margaret jewels return to the romantic essence at the heart of their design. Bringing a modern twist to an antique aesthetic, the pieces connect the past with the present, the vintage with the modern, paying tribute to the stories that inspired their conception, and celebrating timeless artistry. With creations that aim to infuse craftsmanship with storytelling, Margaret produces heirlooms to be worn as emblems of romance, cherished from one generation to the next.
29. VILTIER Gold and emerald ring, ‘Edge’ Set with circular-cut emeralds on each edge of the ring, size 54, signed VT for Viltier, French maker’s mark and assay mark for gold, pouch, box and case stamped Viltier. ESTIMATE CHF 5,500–7,500 $6,500–8,500
30. VILTIER Gold and diamond manchette, ‘Edge’ Set with brilliant-cut diamonds on each edge of the bangle, inner circumference approximately 155mm, signed VT for Viltier, French maker’s mark and assay mark for gold, case and box stamped Viltier. ESTIMATE CHF 22,000–32,000 $25,000–35,000
Launched at the height of the pandemic, Viltier was founded in Paris from the friendship of Thomas Montier Leboucher and Iris de la Villardière. Seeking to bring statement pieces into the everyday world, Viltier’s creations are dynamic, colourful, and refined, bridging modernity with French savoir-faire. Inspired from and designed for present and future generations of wearers, the jewels are produced responsibly, with materials sourced ethically to insure traceability and quality. With a desire to transcend traditional norms surrounding beauty, Viltier’s designs are testaments of curiosity, innovation, and vitality. In June 2023, Viltier’s individuality gained worldwide recognition after its gold and diamond manchette ‘Edge’ won the Best in Gold prize at the Couture Design Award in Las Vegas.
31. DRIES CRIEL Gold and tiger’s eye bangle, ‘Lotus’ Set with geometric tiger’s eye panels, inner circumference approximately 165mm, signed Dries Criel, assay mark for gold, pouch stamped Dries Criel. ESTIMATE CHF 6,000–9,000 $7,000–10,000
32. • DRIES CRIEL Gold, enamel and diamond ring, ‘Flux’ Applied with green enamel geometric patterns, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, size 55, signed Dries Criel, assay mark for gold. ESTIMATE CHF 4,000–6,000 $4,500–7,000 LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
Exploring the space between geometric and organic forms, Dries Criel’s expressive designs weave the bold with the sensual, the masculine with the feminine. He works with an array of traceable materials, from gold to gemstones and enamel, seeking inspiration from a multitude of sources, including classical and contemporary dance, as well as Ancient Egypt. Dries Criel collaborates with several talented craftsmen in Belgium and Italy to bring his work to life, producing timeless pieces that echo his values for freedom, individuality, beauty, and empowerment.
33. CHAUMET Ruby and diamond choker, circa 1898 Of garland design and lattice motif, millegrain set with circular-cut and cushion-shaped rubies, cushion-shaped, circular- and rose-cut diamonds, supporting rose-cut diamond and cushion-shaped ruby motifs en pampilles, length approximately 315mm, unsigned. Accompanied by a Chaumet certificate of authenticity. ESTIMATE CHF 28,000–35,000 $30,000–50,000
From an Important Private Collection
34. Pair of diamond ear studs Each set with a circular-cut diamond weighing 2.96 and 3.01 carats respectively, post and butterfly fittings. ESTIMATE CHF 18,000–28,000 $20,000–30,000
Property of a Lady
35. Natural pearl, cultured pearl and diamond pendant, 1930s Set with two button-shaped natural pearls measuring approximately 10.00-10.40 x 9.30mm and 10.00-10.35 x 9.30mm, two cultured pearls, and a cushion-shaped diamond, accented with circular-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 50 x 40mm. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 128827, stating that two pearls are natural, saltwater, and two are cultured. ESTIMATE CHF 9,000–13,000 $10,000–15,000
From a Private Collection
36. Pair of natural pearl and diamond earrings, circa 1910 Each designed as a line of rose-cut diamonds supporting a drop-shaped natural pearl measuring approximately 8.4510.00 x 14.30mm and 8.80-9.90 x 12.80mm respectively, post and butterfly fittings, French import mark for gold. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 72269, stating that the pearls are natural, saltwater. Please note that the report is more than 5 years old and might require an update. ESTIMATE CHF 7,000–10,000 $8,000–11,000
37. Emerald and diamond jewel Set with an octagonal emerald weighing 4.92 carats, accented with circular-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, measuring approximately 32 x 25mm. Accompanied by AGL report no. 1092381, dated 3 May 2018, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement; together with an SSEF report. ESTIMATE CHF 120,000–145,000 $130,000–160,000
From an Important Private Collection
38. Diamond ring
Set with a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 9.95 carats, the shoulders decorated with baguette diamonds, size 51, sizing band. ESTIMATE CHF 32,000–50,000 $35,000–55,000
39. Ruby, natural pearl and diamond necklace, late 19th century Of openwork design, the pendant set with an oval ruby weighing 4.12 carats, accented with circular-cut diamonds and a button-shaped natural pearl measuring approximately 6.50-6.85 x 6.70mm, suspending a drop-shaped natural pearl measuring approximately 8.95-9.40 x 14.90mm, the chain with spectacle-set circular-cut diamonds, length measuring approximately 170mm, pendant length approximately 105mm. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 132638, stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating, and the two pearls are natural, saltwater. ESTIMATE CHF 72,000–110,000 $80,000–120,000
40. Diamond brooch, late 19th century Of floral design, set throughout with circular-cut diamonds, accented with two marquise-shaped diamonds, measuring approximately 90 x 30mm. ESTIMATE CHF 7,500–11,000 $8,000–12,000
41. Pair of emerald and diamond earrings Each set with an emerald drop, suspended from a line of circular-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, length approximately 50mm, fitted case. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 67880, stating that the emeralds are of Colombian origin, with a moderate amount of oil in fissures. ESTIMATE CHF 45,000–55,000 $50,000–60,000
42. Diamond brooch, 1920s Of openwork geometric design, set throughout with circular-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 78 x 38 x 9mm, assay mark for platinum. ESTIMATE CHF 40,000–60,000 $45,000–65,000
43. Emerald and diamond ring, 1920s Set with an oval emerald weighing 2.91 carats, accented with circular-cut diamonds, size 52, numbered. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 126442, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with a minor amount of oil in fissures. ESTIMATE CHF 30,000–50,000 $35,000–60,000
44. BOUCHERON Diamond bracelet, circa 1930 Of geometric open-work design, set with five octagonal diamonds, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 185mm, signed Boucheron, French assay mark for gold. ESTIMATE CHF 36,000–55,000 $40,000–60,000
45. Emerald ring
Set with an octagonal step-cut emerald stated to weigh 3.08 carats, accented with calibré-cut synthetic sapphires, size 59. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 84990, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity modification; together with an updated SSEF report. ESTIMATE CHF 27,000–45,000 $30,000–50,000
From the collection of Mr. and Mrs. Earl Simcox Swensson
46. Lacquer and silver bracelet, circa 1930
Designed as plaques decorated with lacquer and eggshell, alternating with smaller silver plaques, length approximately 194mm. ESTIMATE CHF 4,500–6,300 $5,000–7,000
From the collection of Mr. and Mrs. Earl Simcox Swensson
47. JEAN DESPRÉS Silver necklace, circa 1930 Designed as five tapering hammered plaques, length approximately 403mm, signed Jean Deprés, French maker’s mark and assay mark. ESTIMATE CHF 9,000–14,000 $10,000–15,000
From the collection of Mr. and Mrs. Earl Simcox Swensson
48. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond and sapphire clip brooch, 1920s; together with a similar clip Each of geometric design, set with a cabochon sapphire, highlighted with step-cut sapphires and single- and circular-cut diamonds, one clip brooch signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered. ESTIMATE CHF 14,000–18,000 $15,000–20,000
49. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Sapphire and diamond ring, 1930s Set with an oval cabochon sapphire, accented with graduated baguette diamonds, size 47, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, French assay mark for platinum, pouch stamped Van Cleef & Arpels. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 88610, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating. Please note that the report is more than 5 years old and might require an update. ESTIMATE CHF 30,000–50,000 $35,000–60,000
50. BULGARI Sapphire, ruby and diamond brooch Set with cabochon sapphires and rubies, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 35 x 30mm, signed Bulgari. ESTIMATE CHF 20,000–28,000 $22,000–30,000
51. CARTIER Nephrite, ruby, diamond and enamel clip, 1920s Applied with carved nephrite, accented with cabochon rubies, circular-cut diamonds and blue enamel, length approximately 28mm, signed Cartier. ESTIMATE CHF 7,500–11,000 $8,OOO–12,OOO
52. Ruby and diamond ring
Set with a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 3.31 carats, accented with calibré-cut rubies, circular-cut and baguette diamonds, size 54. Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 23031097, stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. ESTIMATE CHF 32,000–45,000 $35,OOO–50,OOO
53. BOIVIN Gem set brooch Designed as a shell, set with circular-cut gemstones, including topaz and variously coloured tourmaline, measuring approximately 32 x 28mm, signed René Boivin. ESTIMATE CHF 18,000–28,000 $20,OOO–30,OOO
From a Private Collection
54. BOUCHERON Sapphire and diamond bangle, 1940s Set with calibré-cut sapphires, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, inner circumference approximately 150mm, signed Boucheron, numbered. ESTIMATE CHF 15,000–24,000 $17,OOO–28,OOO
55. CARTIER Pair of diamond and onyx ear clips, ‘Panthère’ Each pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, accented with onyx, each signed Cartier, numbered, French maker’s mark and assay mark for gold, case stamped Cartier. ESTIMATE CHF 11,000–14,000 $12,OOO–15,OOO
56. Fancy Intense Yellow diamond ring Set with a cushion-shaped fancy intense yellow diamond weighing 6.07 carats, between shield-shaped diamond shoulders, size 52. Accompanied by GIA report no. 2211650977, stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense Yellow, Natural Colour, VS1 Clarity. ESTIMATE CHF 65,000–90,000 $72,OOO–100,OOO
57. STERLÉ Emerald and diamond ring, 1960s Set with a cabochon emerald weighing 4.31 carats and a step-cut diamond weighing 5.82 carats, accented with pearshaped diamonds, size 52, signed Sterlé, French assay mark for gold. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 131056, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with a minor amount of oil in fissures; and GIA report no. 2231025851, stating that the diamond is F Colour, SI2 Clarity. ESTIMATE CHF 90,000–135,000 $100,OOO–150,000
58. BULGARI Pair of sapphire, ruby and diamond earrings Each set with a sugarloaf cabochon sapphire weighing 17.74 and 16.66 carats respectively, accented with calibrécut rubies and baguette diamonds, length approximately 23mm, each signed Bulgari, maker’s mark for Bulgari, post and hinged-back fittings. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 83114 and no. 83115, stating that the sapphires are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating; together with an updated SSEF report. ESTIMATE CHF 315,000–500,000 $350,000–550,000
59. Sapphire and diamond ring Set with an oval sapphire weighing 2.07 carats, highlighted with graduated circular-cut diamonds, size 52, French import mark for gold. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 121650, stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating; together with a Gübelin report. ESTIMATE CHF 26,000–32,000 $28,OOO–35,OOO
60. BULGARI Gem set and diamond necklace, ‘Astrale’ The pendant designed as concentric diamond-set circlets accented with variously-cut gems including amethyst, citrine, topaz and tourmaline, length approximately 435mm, signed Bulgari, case stamped Bulgari. ESTIMATE CHF 8,000–12,000 $9,OOO–14,OOO
61. BULGARI Gem set and diamond wristwatch, ‘Astrale’ Of quartz movement, black dial, bezel applied with diamond-set concentric circlets, accented with variouslycut gems including amethyst, citrine, topaz, tourmaline and peridot, sword-shaped hands, satin strap, gold pin buckle, diameter 36mm, length approximately 200mm, dial, caseback and buckle signed Bulgari, numbered, Swiss hallmark for gold, fitted case and box stamped Bulgari. ESTIMATE CHF 7,000–10,000 $8,OOO–11,000
62. Yellow sapphire and ruby ring Set with a cushion-shaped yellow sapphire weighing 100.19 carats, accented with two pear-shaped rubies weighing 3.36 carats and 3.55 carats, size 52, Swiss hallmark for gold, maker’s mark. Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 23060054, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating; together with a Gübelin Appendix Letter and a Gemstone Rating. ESTIMATE CHF 90,000–135,000 $100,OOO–150,000
Property of a Lady
63. Ruby and diamond bracelet Set with oval rubies, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 180mm. ESTIMATE CHF 90,000–135,000 $100,OOO–150,000
Property of a Lady
64. Sapphire and diamond ring Set with an oval sapphire weighing 16.77 carats, accented with two half-moon diamonds, size 50. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 129518, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating. ESTIMATE CHF 26,000–45,000 $30,000–50,000
Property of a Lady
65. Diamond ring Set with a brilliant-cut diamond weighing 2.17 carats, the shoulders pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, size 51. Accompanied by GIA report no. 2225990080, stating that the diamond is E Colour, VS1 Clarity. ESTIMATE CHF 12,000–18,000 $14,000–20,000
66. Ruby, sapphire and diamond necklace
Set with oval, cushion-shaped and circular-cut rubies and similarly-cut sapphires, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 415mm. Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 22087362, stating that three of the sapphires are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating; and no. 22087361, stating that four of the rubies are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. ESTIMATE CHF 90,000–135,000 $100,000–150,000
Property of a Lady
67. Ruby and diamond ring
Set with a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 22.77 carats, the shoulders accented with marquise-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, size 56, with additional mount and party-jacket, set with circular-cut black diamonds, not illustrated. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 132293, stating that the ruby is of East African origin, with no indications of heating and a minor amount of oil in fissures. ESTIMATE CHF 110,000–160,000 $120,000–180,000
Property of a Lady
68. Cultured pearl and diamond necklace and a pair of earrings The necklace of ribbon design, supporting a cultured pearl, accented with graduated brilliant-cut and baguette diamonds, length approximately 200mm; each earring set with a cultured pearl, suspended from a line of graduated brilliant-cut diamonds, the ribbon-shaped surmount set with graduated brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 45mm. ESTIMATE CHF 14,000–20,000 $15,000–22,000
Property of a Lady
69. Emerald and diamond ring Set with a step-cut emerald weighing 2.50 carats, within a cluster of brilliant-cut and baguette diamonds, size 56. Accompanied by a gemmological report. ESTIMATE CHF 7,500–11,000 $8,000–12,000
Property of a Lady
70. Diamond demi-parure
Comprising: a necklace set with marquise-shaped, brilliantcut and baguette diamonds, central motif detachable and may be worn as a brooch, length approximately 410mm, one part detachable and may be worn as a bracelet, length approximately 170mm: and a pair of ear clips of cluster design, drops detachable. ESTIMATE CHF 26,000–44,000 $30,000–50,000
Property of a Lady
71. BULGARI Diamond ring Set with a brilliant-cut diamond weighing 5.73 carats, accented with baguette diamonds, size 52, signed Bulgari. Accompanied by GIA report no. 2231024258, stating that the diamond is K Colour, VVS2 Clarity. ESTIMATE CHF 35,000–55,000 $40,000–60,000
72. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond and mother-of-pearl wristwatch, ‘Papillon’ Of quartz movement, mother-of-pearl round dial, applied with a mother-of-pearl and brilliant-cut diamond butterfly, sword-shaped hands, bezel, lugs and crown set with brilliant-cut diamonds, the bracelet pavé-set with brilliantcut diamonds, diameter approximately 28mm, inner circumference approximately 60mm, dial, caseback and buckle signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, maker’s mark for Van Cleef & Arpels, Swiss hallmarks for gold, fitted case and box stamped Van Cleef & Arpels. ESTIMATE CHF 9,000–12,000 $10,000–14,000
73. Ruby and diamond ring Set with an oval ruby weighing 2.11 carats, accented with marquise-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, size 53. Accompanied by a gemmological report. ESTIMATE CHF 15,000–22,000 $16,000–24,000
From a Private Collection
74. FRED LEIGHTON Diamond choker/tiara combination Designed as a cascade of brilliant-cut diamonds, suspending a series of collet-set brilliant-cut diamonds, inner circumference approximately 325mm, signed Fred Leighton, assay mark, fitted case stamped Fred Leighton, together with a tiara frame. ESTIMATE CHF 72,000–110,000 $80,000–120,000
75. CARTIER Diamond and mother-of-pearl wristwatch, ‘Le Cirque Animalier de Cartier’ Of quartz movement, mother-of-pearl round dial, swordshaped hands, crocodile set with brilliant-cut diamonds and cabochon emerald eyes, bezel and lugs pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, toile-brossée strap, buckle set with brilliant-cut diamonds, diameter approximately 41mm, length approximately 205mm, dial, caseback and buckle signed Cartier, numbered, maker’s mark for Cartier, Swiss hallmarks for gold, fitted case and box. ESTIMATE CHF 15,000–25,000 $17,000–28,000
76. ALEXANDER LAUT Sapphire and diamond ring Set with a cushion-shaped sapphire stated to weigh 15.15 carats, within a frame of oval, marquise-shaped and brilliantcut diamonds, size 52, signed Alexander Laut, numbered. Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 1073949, stating that the sapphire is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. Please note that the report is more than 5 years old and might require an update. ESTIMATE CHF 45,000–72,000 $50,000–80,000
77. CARTIER Diamond and enamel bracelet Applied with black enamel, highlighted with brilliant-cut diamonds on a toile-brossée strap, the clasp set with brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 75mm, signed Cartier, numbered, French assay marks for gold. ESTIMATE CHF 10,000–15,000 $11,000–17,000
Σ 78.
CARTIER Diamond and mother-of-pearl wristwatch, ‘Promenade d’une Panthère’ Of mechanical movement, dark purple mother-of-pearl round dial, rhodium-finish steel sword-shaped hands, bezel and lugs pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, crown set with an inverted brilliant-cut diamond, oscillating panther set with brilliant-cut diamonds and black lacquer spots, leather strap, buckle set with brilliant-cut diamonds, diameter 42.75mm, length approximately 220mm, dial, caseback and buckle signed Cartier, numbered, maker’s mark for Cartier, Swiss hallmark for gold, fitted case and box stamped Cartier. ESTIMATE CHF 25,000–50,000 $28,000–55,000
79. Sapphire and diamond ring
Set with an oval sapphire stated to weigh 14.10 carats, between heart-shaped diamond shoulders, size 50. Accompanied by a gemmological report. ESTIMATE CHF 24,000–32,000 $25,000–35,000
Property of a Lady
80. Diamond necklace Set throughout with brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 390mm, French maker’s mark and assay mark for gold. ESTIMATE CHF 18,000–26,000 $20,000–30,000
81. ALEXANDER LAUT Very Light Blue diamond ring Set with a pear-shaped very light blue diamond weighing 1.33 carats, highlighted with pear-shaped diamonds of pink tint and brilliant-cut diamonds, size 51, signed Alexander Laut, maker’s mark. Accompanied by GIA report no. 510119767182, stating that the diamond is Very Light Blue, Natural Colour, VS1 Clarity. Please note that the report is more than 5 years old and might require an update. ESTIMATE CHF 63,000–90,000 $70,000–100,000
Property of a Lady
82. Diamond ring Set with a brilliant-cut diamond weighing 3.06 carats, size 57. ESTIMATE CHF 16,000–20,000 $17,000–22,000
83. Emerald and diamond bracelet Set with seven octagonal step-cut emeralds weighing 2.32 , 2.76, 2.60, 1.98, 2.32, 4.01 and 1.80 carats, accented with marquise-shaped and baguette diamonds, length approximately 185mm. Accompanied by eight SSEF reports stating that the emeralds are of Colombian origin, with a minor to a moderate amount of oil in fissures. ESTIMATE CHF 27,000–45,000 $30,000–50,000
From a Private Collection
84. Diamond bracelet Composed of five rows of brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 175mm, Russian assay marks for gold. ESTIMATE CHF 35,000–50,000 $40,000–60,000
85. Emerald and diamond ring Set with a step-cut emerald weighing 2.24 carats, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, size 53, numbered. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 125789, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with a minor amount of oil in fissures. ESTIMATE CHF 15,000–20,000 $17,000–24,000
From a Private Collection
86. Pair of diamond ear clips
Each set with a central brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 1.95 carats and 2.00 carats respectively, accented with marquise-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 70mm, French assay mark for platinum. ESTIMATE CHF 24,000–35,000 $28,000–40,000
87. Pair of sapphire and diamond earrings
Each surmount modelled as a flower, set with brilliant-cut diamonds, supporting a detachable pear-shaped sapphire weighing 13.82 carats and 13.66 carats respectively, length approximately 50mm, post and hinged-back fittings. Accompanied by AGL report no. 8091202 A and B, stating that the sapphires are of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating. ESTIMATE CHF 80,000–130,000 $90,000–140,000
From a Private Collection
88. Sapphire and diamond bracelet, 1950s
Set with seven oval and cushion-shaped sapphires, accented with graduated oval, triangular and baguette diamonds, length approximately 200mm. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 103903, stating that the sapphires are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. ESTIMATE CHF 35,000–55,000 $40,000–60,000
89. Sapphire and diamond ring
Set with a step-cut sapphire weighing 5.02 carats, accented with baguette diamonds, size 50. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 85940 and Gübelin report no. 16060103, each stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. Please note that the reports are more than 5 years old and might require an update. ESTIMATE CHF 180,000–270,000 $200,000–300,000
90. MARIANNE OSTIER Pair of cultured pearl, emerald and diamond ear clips Each surmount set with brilliant-cut diamonds, with interchangeable elements, including emerald drops, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, cultured pearl drops measuring approximately 13.33 x 12.34mm and 13.99 x 12.32 mm, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, and cultured pearls measuring approximately 8.83 x 8.85mm and 8.97 x 8.99mm, maker’s mark for Marianne Ostier, case stamped Ostier. Accompanied by AGL report no. 1131928, stating that the emeralds are of Colombian origin, with indications of minor to moderate traditional clarity enhancement. ESTIMATE CHF 36,000–55,000 $40,000–60,000
From an Important Private Collection
91. Diamond bracelet Set with circular-cut diamonds, length approximately 180mm. ESTIMATE CHF 6,500–9,000 $7,000–10,000
92. Emerald and diamond ring Set with a step-cut emerald weighing 7.17 carats, accented with oval diamonds, size 51. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 128150, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity modification. ESTIMATE CHF 90,000–135,000 $100,000–150,000
93. GRAFF Ruby and diamond ring Set with a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 9.37 carats, within a frame of brilliant-cut diamonds, size 53, signed Graff. Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 20110081, stating that the ruby is of East African origin, with no indications of heating. ESTIMATE CHF 290,000–450,000 $320,000–500,000
94. Emerald and diamond ring Set with a step-cut emerald weighing 8.75 carats, highlighted with brilliant-cut diamonds, size 53. Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 68068, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with a minor amount of oil in fissures. Please note that the report is more than 5 years old and might require an update. ESTIMATE CHF 130,000–160,000 $140,000–180,000
Model wearing lots 56, 92, 93, 94.
95. Emerald and diamond necklace Of ribbon design, supporting a drop-shaped emerald measuring approximately 13.15-15.30 x 23.80mm, accented with circular-cut and baguette diamonds, the clasp set with shield-shaped, hexagonal and baguette diamonds, length approximately 195mm, French maker’s mark and assay mark for gold. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 132179, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with a minor amount of oil in fissures. ESTIMATE CHF 140,000–200,000 $160,000–220,000
96. BULGARI Diamond brooch The flower buds set with brilliant-cut diamonds and the petals with pear-shaped diamonds, the sprays set with marquise-shaped, brilliant-cut and graduated baguette diamonds, measuring approximately 100 x 58 x 15mm, signed Bulgari, fitted case stamped Bulgari. ESTIMATE CHF 40,000–55,000 $45,000–60,000
Property of a Lady
97. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Sapphire and diamond bracelet, 1950s Set with oval sapphires, accented by baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 185mm, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, French maker’s mark. ESTIMATE CHF 90,000–135,000 $100,000–150,000
Property of a Lady
98. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond brooch Of flower design, set with brilliant-cut diamonds, the stem set with baguette diamonds, measuring approximately 58 x 30mm, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, pouch stamped Van Cleef & Arpels. ESTIMATE CHF 9,000–13,000 $10,000–15,000
Property of an Important Private Collector
99. BOODLES Fancy Intense Purplish Pink diamond ring Set with an oval fancy intense purplish pink diamond weighing 1.52 carats, the shank accented with brilliantcut diamonds, size 52, maker’s mark for Boodles, British hallmarks for platinum. Accompanied by GIA report no. 12934025, stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense Purplish Pink, Natural Colour, SI2 Clarity. ESTIMATE CHF 180,000–270,000 $200,000–300,000
Property of an Important Private Collector
100. BOODLES Fancy Intense Blue diamond ring Set with a marquise-shaped fancy intense blue diamond weighing 0.72 carats, accented with a brilliant-cut diamond surround and shoulders, size 48, signed Boodles, maker’s mark, British hallmarks for platinum and London. Accompanied by GIA report no. 2145969084, stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense Blue, Natural Colour, Internally Flawless. ESTIMATE CHF 55,000–90,000 $60,000–100,000
101. STERLÉ Pair of natural pearl and diamond ear clips, 1960s Each set with a drop-shaped natural pearl weighing 23.84 carats and 22.88 carats and measuring 12.72-14.91 x 18.51mm and 13.50-14.12 x 17.25mm respectively, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, suspended from a surmount set with a marquise-shaped and baguette diamonds, signed Sterlé, numbered, French assay mark for gold. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 110669, stating that the pearls are natural, saltwater. ESTIMATE CHF 270,000–450,000 $300,000–500,000
102. BOIVIN Cultured pearl and enamel clip, circa 1930 Set with graduated cultured pearls, bordered with black enamel, length approximately 42mm, French import mark for silver. Accompanied by a certificate from Françoise Cailles, stating that it is a work by Rene Boivin with a design by Suzanne Belperron. ESTIMATE CHF 18,000–28,000 $20,000–30,000
Property of a Lady of Title
103. Sapphire and diamond ring, circa 1920 Set with an oval sapphire, highlighted with a halo of circular-cut diamonds, size 53.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 130787, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating. ESTIMATE CHF 6,000–9,000 $7,000–10,000
From an Important Private Collection
104. Pair of diamond earrings, 1920s Each of geometric design, the surmounts set with circularcut diamonds, accented with single-cut diamonds, each supporting a circular-cut diamond weighing 1.85 and 2.09 carats respectively, post and butterfly fitting, length approximately 45mm. ESTIMATE CHF 4,500–7,500 $5,000–8,000
From an Important Private Collection
105. CARTIER Diamond bracelet, circa 1925 Set with circular-cut and square-cut diamonds, length approximately 190mm, signed Cartier, numbered. ESTIMATE CHF 72,000–110,000 $80,000–120,000
106. CARTIER Diamond brooch, circa 1930 Of openwork geometric design, set with circular-cut and baguette diamonds, measuring approximately 44 x 23 x 5mm, signed Cartier, numbered. ESTIMATE CHF 11,000–15,000 $12,000–17,000
107. Fancy Intense Yellow diamond ring Set with a round-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamond weighing 54.27 carats, size 51. Accompanied by GIA report no. 6214174329, stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense Yellow, Natural Colour, Internally Flawless. ESTIMATE CHF 1,170,000–1,620,000 $1,300,000–1,800,000
Property of a Lady
108. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Yellow sapphire and diamond brooch, ‘Ballerina’ Designed as a ballerina, the dress set with graduated circular-cut yellow sapphires, bordered with brilliant-cut diamonds, the head set with a rose-cut diamond, with a halo of brilliant-cut diamonds, the ballet slippers each set with a circular-cut yellow sapphire measuring approximately 60 x 35 x 15mm, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, French maker’s marks for Van Cleef & Arpels and French assay marks for gold, fitted case and box stamped Van Cleef & Arpels. Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity by Van Cleef & Arpels. ESTIMATE CHF 72,000–110,000 $80,000–120,000
Property of a Lady
109. FRED Diamond ring Set with an oval diamond weighing 15.60 carats, accented with baguette diamonds, size 49, signed Fred, French assay marks for gold. Accompanied by GIA report no. 2215389778, stating that the diamond is D Colour, VS2 Clarity; together with a Type IIa classification letter. ESTIMATE CHF 450,000–720,000 $500,000–800,000
≈ 110.
Fancy Intense Pink diamond ring
Set with a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense pink diamond weighing 20.19 carats, accented with baguette diamonds, size 51. Accompanied by GIA report no. 6223260450, stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense Pink, Natural Colour, VVS1 Clarity. ESTIMATE CHF 10,000,000–15,000,000 $11,000,000–16,500,000
PAST RESULTS FOR FANCY INTENSE PINK DIAMONDS
$ 13,245,750 Price per carat: $ 1,889,551 Fancy intense purplish pink diamond weighing 7.04 carats, VS1 Clarity, Type IIa Sotheby’s Geneva, May 2017 ESTIMATE: $ 8,000,000 – 12,000,000
$ 23,274,064 Price per carat: $ 1,635,563 THE PERFECT PINK Fancy intense pink diamond weighing 14.23 carats, VVS2 Clarity, Type IIa Christie’s Hong Kong, November 2010 ESTIMATE: $ 14,000,000 – 19,000,000
$ 10,263,070 Price per carat: $ 1,468,250 Fancy intense pink diamond weighing 6.99 carats, VVS1 Clarity, Potential Christie’s Geneva, May 2023 ESTIMATE: $ 3,000,000 – 5,000,000
$ 17,480,721 Price per carat: $ 1,451,887 THE MARTIAN PINK Fancy intense pink diamond weighing 12.04 carats, VS1 Clarity, Type IIa Christie’s Hong Kong, May 2012 ESTIMATE: $ 8,000,000 – 12,000,000
$ 16,232,308 Price per carat: $ 1,229,720 Fancy intense pink diamond weighing 13.20 carats, Internally Flawless Sotheby’s Geneva, November 2016 ESTIMATE: $ 9,000,000 – 14,000,000
$ 20,778,352 Price per carat: $ 1,217,244 Fancy intense pink diamond weighing 17.07 cartas, VVS1 Clarity, Potential Sotheby’s Geneva, November 2016 ESTIMATE: $ 12,000,000 – 15,000,000
$ 9,648,724 Price per carat:$ 1,096,446 Fancy intense pink diamond weighing 8.80 carats, VVS1 Clarity, Type IIa Christie’s Hong Kong, November 2017 ESTIMATE: $ 8,800,000 – 12,000,000
$ 5,765,000 Price per carat: $ 1,089,792 Fancy intense purplish pink diamond weighing 5.29 carats, VS2 Clarity, Type IIa Christie’s New York, April 2015 ESTIMATE: $ 3,500,000 – 5,500,000
$ 15,338,176 Price per carat: $ 958,636 THE ARTEMIS PINK Fancy intense pink diamond weighing 16.00 carats, VVS2 Clarity, Type IIa Sotheby’s Geneva, May 2017 ESTIMATE: $ 12,500,000 – 18,000,000
$ 5,765,000 Price per carat: $ 945,082 Fancy intense pink diamond weighing 6.10 carats, VVS1 Clarity, Type IIa Christie’s New York, April 2014 ESTIMATE: $ 4,000,000 – 6,000,000
$ 3,801,000 Price per carat: $ 931’618 Fancy intense pink diamond weighing 4.08 carats, VS2 Clarity, Type IIa Sotheby’s New York, June 2022 ESTIMATE: $ 1,200,000 – 1,800,000
INDEX MAKER’S INDEX ALEXANDER LAUT
76, 81
BOIVIN
53, 102
BOODLES
99, 100
BOUCHERON
44, 54
BULGARI
1, 50, 58, 60, 61, 71, 96
CARTIER
21, 51, 55, 75, 77, 78, 105, 106
CHAUMET
33
DRIES CRIEL
31, 32
FRED
109
FRED LEIGHTON
74
GRAFF
93
HEMMERLE
9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14
JEAN DESPRÉS
47
MAISON ALIX DUMAS
23, 24
MARGARET
27, 28
MARIANNE OSTIER
90
MAUBOUSSIN
2, 7
SILVIA FURMANOVICH
25, 26
STERLÉ
5, 57, 101
TIFFANY & CO.
3
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
15, 48, 49, 72, 97, 98, 108
VILTIER
29, 30
COLOURLESS DIAMOND INDEX COLOUR
CLARITY
CARAT WEIGHT
CUT
LOT
D
VS2, Type IIa
15.60
Oval Modified Brilliant
109
E
VS1
2.17
Round Brilliant
65
E
VS2
3.11
Circular Brilliant
2
F
VVS2
3.09
Marquise Brilliant
8
F
SI2
5.82
Square Emerald Cut
57
K
VVS2
5.73
Round Brilliant
71
COLOURED DIAMOND INDEX COLOUR
CLARITY
CARAT WEIGHT
CUT
LOT
Fancy Intense Pink
VVS1
20.19
Cut-Cornered Rectangular Modified Brilliant
110
Fancy Intense Purplish Pink
SI2
1.52
Oval Modified Brilliant
99
Fancy Intense Blue
Internally Flawless
0.72
Marquise Brilliant
100
Very Light Blue
VS1
1.33
Modified Pear Brilliant
81
Fancy Intense Yellow
Internally Flawless
54.27
Round-Cornered Rectangular Modified Brilliant
107
Fancy Intense Yellow
VS1
6.07
Cushion Modified Brilliant
56
Fancy Intense Yellow
VS1
4.54
Round Brilliant
17
Fancy Deep Brownish Yellow
VS1
24.07
Cut-Cornered Square Modified Brilliant
20
Fancy Yellow
VVS2, VS1 & VVS1
1.07 & 1.08; 1.43 & 1.54
Round Brilliant
18 (Brooch & Earrings)
SAPPHIRE INDEX ORIGIN
TREATMENT
CARAT WEIGHT
CUT
LOT
Kashmir
No heat
5.02
Step
89
Kashmir
No heat
2.07
Oval
59
Burma
No heat
17.74 & 16.66
Cabochon
58 (Earrings)
Burma
No heat
15.15
Cushion
76
Burma
No heat
2.30 to 0.90
Oval & Cushion
88 (Bracelet)
Ceylon
No heat
100.19
Cushion
64
Ceylon
No heat
16.77
Oval
64
Ceylon
No heat
Approx. 14.00
Cabochon
49
Ceylon
No heat
13.82 & 13.66
Pear
87 (Earrings)
Ceylon
No heat
Approx. 5.00
Oval
103
Ceylon
No heat
100.19
Cushion
62
ORIGIN
TREATMENT
CARAT WEIGHT
CUT
LOT
Burma
No heat
4.12
Oval
39
Burma
No heat
3.40
Cushion
13
Burma
No heat
3.31
Cushion
52
East Africa
No heat, minor oil
22.77
Cushion
67
East Africa
No heat
9.37
Cushion
93
Mozambique
No heat
7.17
Oval
6
RUBY INDEX
EMERALD INDEX ORIGIN
TREATMENT
CARAT WEIGHT
CUT
LOT
Colombia
No oil
7.17
Step
92
Colombia
No oil
4.92
Octagonal
37
Colombia
No oil
3.08
Step
45
Colombia
Minor oil
Approx. 30.00
Drop-shaped
95
Colombia
Minor oil
8.75
Step
94
Colombia
Minor oil
4.69
Cabochon
4
Colombia
Minor oil
4.31
Cabochon
57
Colombia
Minor oil
2.91
Oval
43
Colombia
Minor oil
2.24
Step
85
Colombia
Minor to moderate oil
Approx. 54.00-55.00
Drop-shaped
90 (Earrings)
Colombia
Minor to moderate oil
2.32, 2.76, 2.60, 1.98, 2.32, 4.01 & 1.80
Step
83 (Bracelet)
Colombia
Moderate oil
Approx. 10.00 & 9.70
Drop-shaped
41 (Earrings)
NATURAL PEARL INDEX NO. OF NATURAL SALTWATER PEARLS
MEASUREMENTS
SHAPE
LOT
2
Approx. 10.00-10.40 x 9.30mm & 10.00-10.35 x 9.30mm
Button
35 (Earrings)
2
8.45-10.00 x 14.30mm & 8.80-9.90 x 12.80mm
Drop
36 (Earrings)
2
12.72-14.91 x 18.51mm & 13.50-14.12 x 17.25mm
Drop
101 (Earrings)
2
Approx. 6.50-6.85 x 6.70mm & 8.95-9.40 x 14.90
Button & Drop
39 (Necklace)
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