Geneva Watch Auction: XIII Geneva / 8 & 9 May 2021
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Geneva
Watch Auction: XIII Geneva / 8 & 9 May 2021
Sale information
Watch Department, Geneva
Regional Director, Business Development Director
Senior Consultants
Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183 nmonbaron@phillips.com
Geneva, 8 & 9 May 2021 Auction & Viewing Location La Réserve 301, Route de Lausanne 1293 Bellevue, Switzerland
Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Business Development Manager Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187 dortega@phillips.com
Client Relations Manager at Bacs & Russo
Administrators
Auctions Saturday, 8 May 2021, 2pm Session 1 Lots 1–130 Sunday, 9 May 2021, 2pm Session 2 Lots 131–236
Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Please register to bid online, absentee or by phone.
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and Middle East
Under the aegis of
Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 8189 aghotbi@phillips.com
Maître Tristan Reymond, Huissier Judiciaire Viewing Thursday, 6 May, 10am–8pm Friday, 7 May, 10am–8pm Saturday, 8 May, 9am–12:30pm Sunday, 9 May, 9am–12:30pm
When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as CH080121 or The Geneva Watch Auction: XIII.
Alexia Rinalducci +41 22 317 96 67 arinalducci@phillips.com Shipping & Office Coordinator Charles-Henri Gounod +41 22 317 96 17 chgounod@phillips.com
Specialists Tiffany To +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com Virginie Liatard-Roessli +41 22 317 8182 vliatard@phillips.com Specialist & Head of Digital Strategy
Sale Designation
Dominik Teichert +41 22 317 96 67 dteichert@phillips.com
Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com Specialist & Business Development Associate
Absentee and Telephone Bids
Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com
Tel +41 22 317 8181 Fax +41 22 317 8180 bidsgeneva@phillips.com
Cataloguer Edoardo Bolla +41 79 552 73 68 ebolla@phillips.com
Finance & Office Administration Francesco Campi +41 22 317 96 71 fcampi@phillips.com Watchmaker, Technical Support Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com Advisory Board Jean-Claude Biver Henry Chan Helmut Crott Ike Honigstock Stephen Charles Li David Lou TK Mak Auro Montanari Jason Singer Kenneth Wong
Our Team Watches Senior Executives
Senior Consultants
Edward Dolman
Aurel Bacs
Chief Executive Officer
Senior Consultant
+1 212 940 1241 edolman@phillips.com
+41 22 317 81 88 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com
© Brigitte Lacombe
Cheyenne Westphal
Livia Russo
Global Chairwoman
Senior Consultant
+44 20 7318 4044 cwestphal@phillips.com
+41 22 317 81 88 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Executives David Norman
Jamie Niven
Chairman, Americas
Senior Advisor to the CEO
+1 212 940 1280 dnorman@phillips.com
+1 917 880 2532 jniven@phillips.com
Jonathan Crockett
Hugues Joffre
Chairman, Asia, Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art, Asia
Senior Advisor to the CEO +44 207 901 7923 hjoffre@phillips.com
+852 2318 2023 jcrockett@phillips.com
Arnold Lehman Senior Advisor to the CEO +1 212 940 1385 alehman@phillips.com
Deputy Chairmen & Chairwomen
Svetlana Marich
Jean-Paul Engelen
Robert Manley
Peter Sumner
Miety Heiden
Worldwide Deputy Chairman
Deputy Chairman, Worldwide Co-Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art
Deputy Chairman, Worldwide Co-Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art
Deputy Chairwoman, Head of Private Sales
+1 212 940 1390 jpengelen@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1358 rmanley@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Europe, Senior International Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art
Vanessa Hallett
Vivian Pfeiffer
Marianne Hoet
Elizabeth Goldberg
Jeremiah Evarts
Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Worldwide Head of Photographs
Deputy Chairman, Americas, Head of Business Development, Americas
Deputy Chairwoman, Europe, Senior Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art
Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Senior International Specialist, American Art
Deputy Chairman, Americas, Senior International Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art
+1 212 940 1243 vhallett@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1392 vpfeiffer@phillips.com
+32 3257 3026 mhoet@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1239 egoldberg@phillips.com
+1 917 304 4329 jevarts@phillips.com
+44 20 7318 4010 smarich@phillips.com
+44 20 7901 7943 mheiden@phillips.com
+44 20 7318 4063 psumner@phillips.com
Bacs & Russo
Aurel Bacs
Livia Russo
Clara Kessi
Senior Consultant
Senior Consultant
Client Relations Manager
+41 22 317 81 88 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com
+41 22 317 81 88 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com
+41 22 317 81 88 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com
International Business Directors
Myriam Christinaz
Pansy Ku
International Business Director
International Business Development Director
+41 22 317 81 84 mchristinaz@phillips.com
+33 1 53 71 77 89 pku@phillips.com
Geneva
Alexandre Ghotbi
Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Arthur Touchot
Tiffany To
Marcello de Marco
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and Middle East
Specialist
Specialist, Head of Digital Strategy
Specialist
Specialist, Business Development Associate
+41 22 317 81 89 aghotbi@phillips.com
+41 22 317 81 82 vliatard@phillips.com
+41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com
Edoardo Bolla
Nathalie Monbaron
Diana Ortega
Cataloguer
Regional Director, Business Development Director
Business Development Manager
+41 22 317 81 83 nmonbaron@phillips.com
+41 22 317 81 87 dortega@phillips.com
+41 79 552 73 68 ebolla@phillips.com
+41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com
+41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com
Hong Kong
Thomas Perazzi
Jill Chen
Zi Yong Ho
Shoyo Kawamura
Gertrude Wong
Head of Watches, Asia
Head of Watches, Hong Kong
Head of Sale, Specialist
Associate Specialist
Cataloguer/Designer
+852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com
+852 2318 2033 jillchen@phillips.com
+852 2318 2032 ziyongho@phillips.com
+852 2318 2035 shoyokawamura@phillips.com
+852 2318 2045 gertrudewong@phillips.com
London
James Marks
Christopher Youé
International Specialist
Specialist
+44 20 7901 7916 jmarks@phillips.com
+44 7778 143 563 cyoue@phillips.com
New York
Paul Boutros
Doug Escribano
Geoff Hess
Isabella Proia
Daniella Rosa
Head of Watches, Americas International Strategy Advisor
Senior International Specialist
International Specialist and Head of Perpetual, Americas
Specialist
Business Development Manager
+1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com
+1 917 297 6328 ghess@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1395 drosa@phillips.com
Taiwan
Tokyo
Genki Sakamoto
Kaz Fujimoto
Cindy Yen
Zach Lu
Senior Specialist Consultant
Senior Consultant
General Manager, Taiwan
Consultant
+81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com
+81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com
+886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
+852 2318 2034 zacharylu@phillips.com
Welcome By Alexandre Ghotbi
My first words to you are THANK YOU. Thank you to all our consignors who trusted us in 2020 – a year of great uncertainties and questions – and trusted us yet again with their precious timepieces for the present sale. Thank you to all the collectors who bid at our auctions, trusting us even though they never had the opportunity to see the watches. Thank you to the teams at Phillips Watches, especially the Geneva team, from the specialists and colleagues from digital marketing, communications, administration, shipping and events whose unwavering enthusiasm and dedication allowed us to put together the present sale. 2020 saw an incredible rise in the appetite for collectible vintage and modern wristwatches pushing Phillips Watches to consolidate its position as the undisputed market leader. Not only did we realize the best year for watch department at Phillips, but we realized the best year ever in the history of watch auctions. 2020 was also a very important year for watchmaking as in December, mechanical watchmaking was added to the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, highlighting the cultural and historical significance of our magnificent passion for horology and the need to protect these centuries old crafts and artistries.
Our goal each season is to always find new and exciting timepieces that would not be available elsewhere and which will entice you, pique your curiosity and invite you to explore the history and innovations in the ever-evolving world of horology. For our first live auction of the year, we have curated an incredible selection of watches spanning most of the 20th and 21st century, demonstrating the savoir-faire, technical and design prowess of the watch industry. On offer are watches that will attract both the budding enthusiast and the most seasoned collector. What they all have in common, is their rarity, state of preservation and relevance in the horological sphere today. We are looking forward in seeing you on May 8th and 9th either in the auction room, on the phone or online and don’t forget that our team of specialist are always present to answer any question you may have on the watches offered here and to offer you a one-on-one Zoom presentation of the timepieces.
Alexandre Ghotbi
Session one 8 May 2021, 2pm Lots 1–130
1.
ROLEX — A large stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with helium escape valve, ceramic bezel, date, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2019
Reference No.
126660
Case No.
17’255’5Y8
Model Name
Sea-Dweller Deepsea
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3235, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet,
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
max length 210mm
Estimate CHF 6,000-9,000 • $6,400-9,600 €5,400-8,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee stamped Bucherer dated December 19, 2019, product literature, green card holder, hang tag, pouch, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.
Launched in 1967, the Sea-Dweller was the ultimate tool watch. Originally conceived for dive expeditions, the model was officially introduced for civilian use in 1967.
The present Sea-Dweller Deepsea is a more wearable version of the specially-built Deepsea model that famously became the first watch to descend to a depth of more than 10,000 meters in the Mariana Trench, on an 2012 expedition sponsored by Rolex and the National Geographic Society and manned by filmmaker James Cameron. Even though the present watch cannot resist the same depths as the model that went on the expedition, it still boasts an impressive 3,900 meter depth rating. It features the Sea-Dweller’s signature Helium Escape Valve allowing helium gas, which built up underwater, to be released during decompression without the crystal popping off. This particular model with a D-blue dial was originally introduced in 2014. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
2.
ROLEX — A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with white dial, ceramic bezel, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2019
Reference No.
116500LN
Case No.
V3687651
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,700-16,000 €9,000-13,600 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated September 06, 2019, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
Introduced at the 2016 Baselworld, reference 116500LN replaced reference 116520. While both models feature an in-house Rolex chronograph movement, reference 116500LN was Rolex’s very first stainless steel Cosmograph Daytona to feature a Cerachrom bezel. Two dial versions were available for the stainless steel model - either black or white. Reference 116500LN became an instant overnight success with clients immediately filling up the waiting list at retailers. Today, it is still incredibly difficult to obtain one due to the model’s good looks and cult status. The present watch is offered in excellent and barely-worn condition. It was most likely worn once or twice only. It is furthermore accompanied by its Rolex guarantee dated September 06, 2019, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
3.
ROLEX — A rare and attractive yellow gold and diamond-set chronograph wristwatch with presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1991
Reference No.
16518
Movement No.
55’928
Case No.
X’574’837
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 ∑ • $10,700-16,000 €9,000-13,600 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex presentation box, hang tag and outer packaging.
Launched in the late 1980s, the Daytona with automatic movement immediately became a sensation, with waitlists building up at retailers and clients eager to own the newest Rolex chronograph model. The model displayed different dial variations before it was eventually replaced by reference 116520. Displaying a striking white dial with diamond-set markers, reference 16518 most notably houses the Zenith-based El Primero movement. Preserved in excellent condition and displaying the original caseback sticker, it is even accompanied by a striking green strap, enhancing the allure of the yellow gold case. Offered without reserve, it provides enormous value and visual satisfaction. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
4.
ROLEX — An attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with additional dial, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2007
Reference No.
116528
Case No.
Z962’194
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “78498”
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 • $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee card stamped by Portuguese retailer “C.S. Torres S.A.” and dated 2007, additional dial, green leather wallet, product literature, fitted presentation box and outer packaging, pouch.
Since its introduction in 1963, Rolex’s Cosmograph Daytona has continuously evolved, starting out as a tool watch aiming at motorsports to lavishly gemset versions today. It is amongst the most sought after models for its masculine appeal, classic aesthetics, and exceptional timekeeping. In 1988, Rolex released their very first automatic models housing a heavily modified Zenith El-Primero movement. The present reference 116528 is part of the second generation of automatic Daytona models but upgraded with Rolex’s first inhouse chronograph calibre: cal 4130, launched in 2000. An incredibly attractive watch with its bold Arabic numerals, cream dial and black subdials, it is in overall excellent condition and is further accompanied by a full set of accessories including an extra white dial. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
5.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A rare and attractive white gold wristwatch with date, certificate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2008
Reference No.
5127G
Movement No.
3’407’720
Case No.
4’417’354
scan for more info
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 315 SC AIG. 1, 29 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
stamped with the Geneva seal Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 O $8,500-12,800 €7,200-10,800 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated August 16, 2008, wooden presentation box, leather envelope with product literature and outer packaging.
The Patek Philippe reference 5127 was designed in 2008 as a continuation of the long legacy of the Calatrava model, first launched in 1932. Inspired by the Bauhaus principle of form follows function, the minimalist design of the reference 5127 distils timekeeping down to its pure essence: a timepiece with center seconds and a date aperture positioned at 3 o’clock.
Its beautiful powdery creamy pearl-colour dial is surrounded by a delicate silver hard-enamel minute ring. Reminiscent of the Bauhaus design, it adorns applied white gold indexes in the shape of sharp pencils and two large white gold dauphine hands indicating the hours and the minutes. The ultimate gentleman’s dress watch, the reference 5127, defies all fashion trends yet adapts to its modern times. For example, the case has grown from an original 31mm diameter to a steady 37mm diameter, and now bears a crown guard at 3 o’clock. While looking at the case, the beholder is hypnotized by the fluidity of its lines, the voluptuousness of its raised bezel and the cold calming reflection of its white metal. The screw-down crown is decorated with an embossed Calatrava Cross which removes all sharp edges from the crown guards and simply rest as a reigning dome on the rim of the watch. Pure in its essence, the Calatrava reference 5127 will attract any gentleman who is looking for a timeless model which will be a staple in his collection.
6.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A rare and attractive white gold wristwatch with grey dial, date, certificate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2014
Reference No.
6000G
Movement No.
5’712’701
Case No.
4’607’005
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
18K white gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240 PS C, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,700-16,000 €9,000-13,600 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated 19 September, 2014, hang tag, setting pin, product literature, leather wallet, presentation box and outer packaging.
Dubbed as the oldest Patek Philippe model, the Calatrava was introduced in 1932, the same year the Stern family took the reign of Patek Philippe. Over the years, the manufacturer released various Calatrava models with an array of complications, with its most traditional references paying homage to the ref. 96.
In 2005, Patek Philippe introduced the Calatrava ref. 6000, first fitted with a glossy black dial and encased in white gold. Other iterations were launched, featuring various case materials such as pink gold and various dial colours such as grey and brown. The present version is cased in white gold and displays a striking grey dial. Offered in excellent condition, it is also accompanied by its certificate of origin and presentation box.
7.
A highly attractive and rare stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet, certificate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2008
Reference No.
5711/1A
Movement No.
3’647’386
Case No.
4’945’299
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 S C, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $42,700-85,400 €36,200-72,300 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated December 17, 2008, product literature, wallet, presentation box and outer packaging.
Reference 5711 was launched in 2006 to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus. Inspired by the original reference 3700 Jumbo Nautilus, the present reference 5711 features sweep center seconds and a larger case with 42.5 mm. bezel width. With the modern update and classic sporty look, the present watch is one of the most sought after timepieces at auction and as of right now, to be discontinued at retail stores. Preserved in barely worn condition, this timepiece is also accompanied by all its original accessories such as its Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated December 17, 2008, product literature, wallet, presentation box and outer packaging. Furthermore, the movement displays the Geneva seal, rather than the Patek Philippe seal found on current production models, giving it another layer of collectibility.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5711/1A Nautilus
The Independents’ Atelier
Daniel Roth
It was in May 2018 that we decided to launch a section dedicated to Independent Watchmaking in our Geneva catalogues, and in just three short years this genre, so close to our heart, has gone from a category reserved for a small handful of cognoscenti to a full blown horological storm with collectors fighting to secure pieces from these genius watchmakers. In 2020, two veterans of Independent Watchmaking broke the CHF 1 million barrier for their wristwatches: François-Paul Journe with his Chronomètre à Resonance and Tourbillon Souverain, both subscription pieces (Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XI, June 2020) and Philippe Dufour with number 00 of his special 20th Anniversary Simplicity (Phillips Geneva Retrospective, November 2020 ), thus joining Urwerk’s incredible AMC Atomic clock/wristwatch that had sold in December 1999 at Phillips New York Game Changers for close to US$2.9 million. More than the numbers, these results are testimonies to the superior skills of these independent artisans who are now on the same level as auction behemoths that have been in activity for centuries. Originally, our Independent’s Atelier section was set up to shine the light on these watchmakers and showcase their incredible creations, today, watches presented in this section have become some of the most sought-after timepieces in our auctions!
Laurent Ferrier
This season, in addition to the watchmakers and artisans who habitually grace this section such as F.P. Journe, MB&F, Urwerk, De Bethune, Vianney Halter or Laurent Ferrier, we add to our phenomenal variety by welcoming new comers such as Roger Dubuis, Daniel Roth or Antoine Presiuzo, all pioneers of Independent Watchmaking who launched their eponymous brands in the 1990s thus setting the path for the new generation of Roger Smith and Romain Gauthier whose pieces we also have the pleasure of offering you this season. Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner (Urwerk)
Roger Dubuis
Ming Thein Denis Flageollet
Romain Gauthier
Maximilian Büsser
François-Paul Journe
Vianney Halter Roger Smith Antoine Presiuzo
8.
A highly rare and attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with black luminous dial
Manufacturer
Roger Dubuis
Year
Circa 1999
Movement No.
16
Model Name
Hommage 34
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. RD56, 21 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
stamped with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600
scan for more info
Based on the Lemania 2310, this present Roger Dubuis chronograph is an early example made before the brand’s sale to Richemont. First and foremost a watchmaker, Roger Dubuis had tirelessly worked for brands such as Patek Philippe and Longines, before setting up his own workshop. It was in 1995 that Dubuis created his own brand, teaming up with Carlos Dias. Originally made in a series of 28 examples, the H34 is a sight to behold and displays incredible details that would impress even the most fastidious watch purist. Firstly, the movement is based upon the Lemania 2310 ébauche - just like the famed Patek Philippe reference 5070. The movement proudly displays the Geneva seal - an exceptional feat for a small, at the time independent watchmaker. On top of that, it was certified by the Besançon Observatory. Finally, the dial itself is beautiful. Displaying contrasting finishes and Arabic numerals, the effect is visually stunning. The watch itself offers even more than just technical prowess and good looks - it represents a period of time, when nowhousehold names such as F.P. Journe or Roger Smith were experimenting, producing their very first prototypes, pushing the boundaries of watchmaking and re-defining the meaning of watchmaking. Industry veterans will look back at this golden period of horology as the cradle of Independent Watchmaking, with doses of both pride and nostalgia.
RO G E R D U B U I S H34 “Hommage Chronographe Bulletin d'Observatoire”
9.
A rare and attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with salmon dial
Manufacturer
Daniel Roth
Year
Circa 1995
Reference No.
247.X.40
Case No.
13’831
Material
18k pink gold
Calibre
scan for more info
Automatic, cal. DR500, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold Daniel Roth pin buckle
Dimensions
41mm Length and 38mm width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-8,000 $4,300-8,500 €3,600-7,200
One of the most brilliant watchmakers of his generation, Daniel Roth first worked for Audemars Piguet in the late 1960s. It was in 1973, when he was still in his twenties, that he changed the face of modern horology as we know it when he joined Breguet, then a brand on the verge of bankruptcy that only made a handful of timepieces. Roth recreated wristwatches directly inspired by AbrahamLouis Breguet’s pocket watches, producing some of the first modern perpetual calendar and tourbillon wristwatches. Roth left Breguet in 1987 to start his own brand. He immediately created a personal design language, the most obvious being the unusual shape of his watches that later came to be defined as an ellipsocurvex, hands with pointed tips and dials with a horizontal guilloché pattern. Roth always worked with the greatest movement manufacturers of his time and the present chronograph houses a Zenith El Primero movement dubbed the DR500. The subtle pink gold case and the flamboyant pink dial with “pearl” minute markers make the present piece a must have from one of the first watchmakers who set out as an independent.
D A N I E L ROT H Ref. 247.X.40 “Pink on Pink”
10.
A fine and attractive titanium wristwatch with large date, day/night indicator, power reserve, bracelet, warrany and box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2018
Case No.
351-ARS
Model Name
Linesport
scan for more info
Automatique Réserve Material
Titanium
Calibre
Automatic, cal 1300.3, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Titanium F.P. Journe bracelet, max length 175mm
Clasp/Buckle
Titanium F.P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe Garantie dated October 29, 2018, wallet, polishing cloth, presentation box and outer packaging.
F.P. Journe introduced his “Sports” line of models in 2011. Made originally in ultra-light aluminum cases, he rapidly switched to titanium. According to Journe, the collection was inspired by an important collector of the brand, himself a dedicated sportsman, looking for an ultra-light sports watch with a haute horlogerie movement. The present Linesport Automatique Reserve is available in 3 metals: titanium like the present example, red gold and platinum. Decidedly sporty in look with its lightweight titanium case and bracelet and ceramic bezel, the watch is driven by Journe’s caliber 1300.3 with ultra large date made in aluminium alloy that jumps precisely at midnight. The watch also features a day/night indicator as well as a 160 hour power reserve indicator. Journe has developed an automatic winding system which optimizes winding with the slightest movement of the arm. The movement of the present example in titanium is made of titanium elements, along with an offset rotor in titanium with tungsten segment. A potent mix of contemporary cool with horological prowess the present Octa Sportline bears all the genetic codes of watches by Journe.
F. P. J O U R N E Octa S
11.
An extremely fine and rare platinum full calendar automatic wristwatch with retrograde date, Certificate and Box, part of a 20 pieces souscription series
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2003
Case No.
007-04Q
Model Name
Octa Calendrier “Souscription”
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1300, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
F.P. Journe platinum pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, buckle and strap signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $42,700-85,400 €36,200-72,300 Accessories Accompanied by souscription confirmation letter dated October 18, 2002, Certificat d’Authenticite dated December 2, 2020 wooden fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
For those entrenched in the horological world of the 21st century, it is difficult to imagine an existence without F.P. Journe. François-Paul Journe introduced his first wristwatch, the Tourbillon Souverain, in 1999, and shortly thereafter followed with the revolutionary Chronomètre à Résonance and the Octa Automatique.
The Octa began as one watch but with the mindset that Journe was in fact building the base of an entire collection – which indeed happened. Before being discontinued, the Octa Automatique formed the basis of eight separate models, each with different complications. The present timepiece represents the very beginning of the Octa collection, and sheds some light on the genesis of the model. While it is by now common knowledge that the first Resonance and the first Tourbillon F.P. Journe timepieces were sold as subscription pieces in advance of their production, in order to gather the funds to make them, collectors are less aware that a similar beginning was reserved for the Octa Calendrier. In fact, the Octa Calendar, Octa Reserve de Marche and Octa Chronograph were sold to the same watch collectors as the ones who had subscribed to the Tourbillion and Resonance The present piece can then be considered a cornerstone of F.P. Journe production, and the beginning of what will become one of the most successful collections of the brand. Fully documenting its peculiar history, not only the watch comes with a certificate signed by Journe himself but it is accompanied even by the original 2002 letter with which F.P. Journe communicated to the client that his souscription had been registered. A true living fossil and without a doubt one of the most important Octas in existence.
F. P. J O U R N E Octa Calendrier “Souscription”
12.
A very fine and rare tantalum wristwatch with chrome blue dial, certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2018
Case No.
2-258CB
Model Name
Chronomètre Bleu
Material
Tantalum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1304, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Tantalum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,300-42,700 €18,100-36,200 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe International Guarantee Card, leather card holder, USB key, polishing cloth, fitted box and outer packaging
The Chronomètre Bleu became, upon its launch in 2011, an instant hit with waiting lists piling up. Rumor has it that there is close to 27 years of production backlog and retailers are no longer taking orders. Although the Chronomètre Bleu was to be Journe’s “entry level” timepiece, the watchmaker went against the current (as usual) by creating a watch that hit the industry with a thunderous bang and immediately hit a sweet spot with collectors. The excitement delivered was through Journe’s innovative approach in creating a case made out of the highly rare and delicate to handle tantalum, with a blue/grey tint perfectly complementing the amazing sheen of the blue chrome dial. The movement is Journe’s caliber 1304 executed in pink gold and displays an equally high standard of execution and finish witnessed as on all F.P. Journe wristwatches. In excellent condition and offering a full set, the present Chronomètre Bleu offers a rare opportunity that should not be passed.
F. P. J O U R N E Chronomètre Bleu
13.
A very rare and historically important platinum dual time wristwatch with double escapement, certificate of authenticity and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2002
Case No.
194-02R
Model Name
Chronomètre à Resonance
Material
Platinum
scan for more info
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1499, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-150,000 $107,000-160,000 €90,400-136,000 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe fitted box, undated Certificate of Authenticity, product literature and outer packaging Literature F. P. Journe Invenit et Fecit by Jean-Pierre Grosz is dedicated to Journe and his oeuvre.
Francois-Paul Journe’s Chronomètre à Resonance, along with his Tourbillon Souverain, are signature pieces and have been staples of the brand for over 20 years. The Resonance model especially in its 38mm and brass movement livery like the present example has reached the peaks of collectability and cult status in the past years and quite rightly so. Journe’s quest of chronometry and accuracy inspired him to use a system originally devised by the great 18th century watchmaker Antide Janvier. In 1983, he subsequently miniaturized the system into a pocket watch and pushed the boundaries in creating a wristwatch version 17 years later. It was the world’s first wristwatch to use the resonance phenomenon, whereby the movement is composed of two independent balances, alternatively serving as an “exciter” and “resonator”. When in motion, the balances create the resonance effect and beat in opposition, naturally evening out each other’s discrepancies and thus permitting greater accuracy. Not only a wonderful tribute to technical watchmaking, the Chronomètre à Resonance is also an extremely useful dual time watch. Made between 2000-2005 in very limited numbers the first generation Chronomètre à Resonance featured a 38mm case and a brass movement. The present model from 2002 with rare white gold dial, is in superb condition and comes full set with box and papers.
F. P. J O U R N E Chronomètre à Resonance “38mm Brass Movement”
14.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE — A rare and attractive white gold wristwatch with small seconds and oversized date display
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
Circa 2001
Reference No.
308.027
Movement No.
8336
Case No.
118’310
Model Name
Langematik Big Date
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. L 921.4, 45 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 7,000-12,000 • $7,500-12,800 €6,300-10,800
Introduced in 1997, the Langematik Big Date displays aesthetics perfectly in line with the manufacture’s design codes. Featuring a “big date” at 12 o’clock, it is unmissably A. Lange & Söhne in nature. Powered by the in-house caliber L 921.4, the movement is hand finished and executed in the highest degree of finesse. The Sax-O-Mat off-centered micro rotor in 21K yellow gold and platinum displays the signature hand-engraved balance cock, and is a sight to behold. The date is adjusted by a pusher at 10 o’clock, allowing the wearer to adjust at a much faster pace. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
15.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE — An extremely elegant and very rare platinum automatic wristwatch with zero-reset mechanism, enamel dial, Guarantee, VHS videocassette and box, number 44 of a 500 pieces limited edition made to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the re-establishment of A. Lange & Söhne
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2002
Reference No.
302.025
Movement No.
15’571
Case No.
132’044 and 44/500
Model Name
Jubilaüms Langematik
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. L921.7, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Lange pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne Guarantee card stamped by Maastricht retailer Leon Martens Juwelier and dated July 5, 2002, original invoice dated July 5, 2002, service invoice dated July 15, 2017, service booklet, instructions booklet, two polishing clothes in paper envelope, leather document holder, fitted presentation box, two period publications on A. Lange & Söhne, 1999 VHS cassette with the documentary “When Time Came Home” in its packaging.
The present Anniversary Langematik model was made in a limited edition of 500 pieces only (produced between 2000 and 2004) to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the reestablishment of A. Lange & Söhne. The watch is fitted with a flawless enamel dial that requires exquisite craftsmanship and skills. Visually striking and appealing, the dial is further highlighted with the Roman numeral XII in red. In addition, the watch houses a patented zero-reset mechanism, which re-sets the seconds hand to 0 when the crown is pulled. Encased in platinum, the present watch is offered in pristine condition. Offered by the original owner, the piece is in excellent condition. A testament to the care with which the watch was looked after, it is offered complete of its original invoice from 2002 and a service invoice from 2017 (both made by the same retailer, and of course both in the name of the same person), two publications on Lange from 1999 and 2002, and a VHS cassette with the 1999 documentary “When Time Came Home”, detailing the modern rebirth of A. Lange & Söhne.
16.
An impressive and heavy platinum wristwatch with spring drive, 8 day power reserve, certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Grand Seiko
Year
2016
Reference No.
SBGD001
Case No.
660’003
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 9R01, 56 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Grand Seiko deployant clasp
Dimensions
43mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $32,000-53,400 €27,100-45,200 Accessories Accompanied by Grand Seiko guarantee dated 19 August, 2016, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
Heavy and exceedingly well-made, many consider the SBGD001 the “holy grail” for Grand Seiko collectors. Powered by the incredibly well-finished Spring Drive movement, it is one of the finest creations made by Grand Seiko today. Every element, inside and out, is executed with excellence. The polished, bevelled edges of the movement bridges, or anglage, is incredibly well done - crisp, sharply defined, and mirror polished. Fitting, as the movement is finished by Micro Artist Studio. The textured dial is particularly beautiful, catching the light subtly. In fact, collectors have dubbed this effect “diamond dust”. The platinum case is particularly heavy and impressive, giving the watch a stealth and understated appearance. Offered with its original certificate, it marks the first time the model appears on the international auction market.
G R A N D S E I KO Ref. SBGD001 “Spring Drive 8 Day Power Reserve”
17.
ZENITH — A highly rare, incredibly well-preserved and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Zenith
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
A386
Case No.
706D893
Model Name
El Primero
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
scan for more info
Automatic, cal. 3019PHC, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Zenith bracelet, max length 175mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Zenith deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,700-16,000 €9,000-13,600
With the El Primero, meaning “the first” in Spanish, Zenith not only wanted to create a high frequency precision wristwatch, but also sought to advance the state-of-the-art of horology with a fully integrated, automatic chronograph caliber. The reference A386 was presented in 1969 and housed this new revolutionary caliber. The case is a masculine 37.5mm in diameter with long angled lugs and an almost non-existent bezel giving greater visibility to the dial. The dial is also in line with the aesthetic freedom of the 60s-70s with its overlapping blue, grey and anthracite subdial and the red chronograph hand bringing a touch of vivid color. With an overall modern and colorful appearance, the launch of the model marked a move away from the more subdued aesthetics of the 1940s and 50s. Preserved in excellent condition, the present watch displays crisp edges and is even accompanied by a Zenith mesh bracelet.
18.
ZENITH — A very fine and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with date and “tropical” outer minute track
Manufacturer
Zenith
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
GH 381
Case No.
485D942
Model Name
El Primero
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3019, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Generic metal buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,800 €7,200-10,800
The Zenith El Primero made horological history on January 10, 1969, the day the first prototypes were presented to the press. It’t 36,000 VPH made it the world’s first automatic, highfrequency chronograph. The El Primero was launched with two models: the A386 in stainless steel and the G381 in 18k yellow gold. Both shared similar aesthetics, most notably with a 37.5mm case that featured wide, faceted lugs, as well as pump pushers. But the inaugural El Primero models each had a distinct dial. Whilst the steel example was given overlapping tricolour registers, the yellow gold G381 had a more classical dial of black registers on a white face.
Both models were in production for a mere three years – from 1969 to 1971. According to the reference tome Zenith - Swiss Watch Manufacture Since 1865 by Manfred Rössler, only about 2,500 of the steel A386 were produced. And the precious-metal G381, unsurprisingly, is even rarer, with less than 700 made. When Zenith marked the 50th anniversary of the El Primero last year, one of the vintage models it reproduced was the G381, as a 50-piece limited edition, underlining its historical significance. The lustrous yellow gold case is beautifully preserved and possibly unpolished, retaining its sharp edges and crisp satin brushing, a rare quality given the nature of yellow gold. Furthermore, the dial has been rendered unique by time, with its minute track having aged to a beautiful brown, creating an unusual contrast with the jet-black registers. This “tropical” minute track amplifies the vintage appeal, and certainly distinguishes this example from its uniformly-coloured counterparts. Noteworthy from a historical perspective is its production date, making it one of the first El Primero watches ever. The watch was delivered the very month of the Basel fair in 1969, where the El Primero was formally launched after the press reveal in January that year.
19.
A very elegant limited edition yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with Warranty and box
Manufacturer
Zenith
Year
2019
Reference No.
30.P386.400/27.C841
Movement No.
644’244
Case No.
551’031
Model Name
El Primero A386 for Phillips
scan for more info
in Association with Bacs & Russo Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. El Primero 400, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18k yellow gold Zenith pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-20,000 $10,700-21,300 €9,000-18,100 Accessories Accompanied by Zenith International Warranty dated February 2020, fitted box, USB key, polishing cloth, travel pouch and outer packaging.
In 2019 Phillips was approached by Zenith to design a unique El Primero reference A386 in celebration of the caliber’s 50th anniversary. The result was a platinum chronograph with lapis lazuli dial, sold at auction for CHF 250,000 and whose proceeds went to charity. During the creative process, the team at Phillips Watches also designed two limited edition models, one in stainless steel with “terracotta” colored subdials limited to 49 pieces and the present example in yellow gold with black dial limited to only 20 pieces. The goal for the design team was not to recreate an existing model but to imagine being designers of the new, to be launched, G381 with El Primero movement in 1969. The result is a watch that has its roots firmly set in 1969 but with a modern flair. It is both flamboyant and retrained. No detail has been left unexplored, whether be it the color of the luminous material, the printing on the dial and even the color of the date disc. As a tribute to the original G381 the dial only features the brand name and El Primero. In overall excellent condition and accompanied by box and guarantee the present watch offers the rare opportunity to acquire a piece that sold out in less than 20 minutes after its launch.
20.
ZENITH El Primero “The Phillips Edition”
20.
A highly rare, attractive and well-preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with solid gold dial, burgundy bezel, engraved back and bracelet, number 883 of a 1014 pieces limited edition
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1970
Reference No.
BA 145.022
Movement No.
29’117’698
Case No.
883
Model Name
Speedmaster Professional,
Material
18K yellow gold
scan for more info
Apollo XI Calibre
Manual, cal. 861, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Omega bracelet, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Omega deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “1116/575”
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 $26,700-48,000 €22,600-40,700 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract form the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1970 and its delivery to Taiwan.
Reference 145.022 in yellow gold was released following the historical moon landing in 1969, as a celebration of the event and - indirectly - of Omega’s partnership with NASA. With only 1,014 examples produced, the reference has achieved by now a near mythical status in virtue of its unrestrained luxurious looks, rarity and historical importance. While the series comprises 1014 pieces, they are not all identical to each other, both for looks and for intended destination. One can identify the following main “groups”:
- The first and second examples were offered to the President and Vice-President of the United States (who never accepted the gift as too expensive, and now reside in the Omega museum). - Number 3 to 32 were offered to mission astronauts and they were engraved “To mark man’s conquest of space with time, through time, on time” and with the name of the recipient. - Numbers 29 to 32 were given to Swiss personalities. They bear the same inscriptions as the astronaut’s timepieces, but have no sequential number (apparently making these pieces the only 3 watches of the edition with this peculiarity) - Nos. 33 to 1000 were commercialised. The caseback is inscribed as seen on this piece; early models feature a simple engraving, later models - such as the present lot - feature an burgundy-coloured engraving - Numbers 1001 to 1008 were presented between ’71 and ‘73 to astronauts who had not yet taken part in a space mission in 1969 (to be precise, astronauts participating in Apollo XIV to XVII missions. It is unclear why Apollo XIII astronauts did not receive a timepiece). - The final 6 pieces (1009 - 1014) were given to various personalities Omega reissued a 50th anniversary 18K moonshine gold limited edition with sapphire case back in 2019 as a tribute to the Moonwatch legacy, indicating how important the brand itself deems this model to be for its heritage. The present example is preserved in excellent overall condition: the case is probably unpolished and the dial is absolutely flawless, further enhancing its desirability and collectability.
OMEGA Ref. BA 145.022 Speedmaster Apollo XI
21.
CARTIER — A highly rare and attractive platinum limited edition wristwatch with jumping hours, made to commemorate Cartier’s 150th anniversary
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
1997
Case No.
041/150
Model Name
Tank à Guichet
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 9752 MC,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
19 jewels Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
25.5mm. Width and 37mm. Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Cartier presentation box and manual.
A variant of the original Tank wristwatch, the Tank à Guichet was first introduced in 1928. Featuring jumping hours at the upper portion of the dial, the watch also displayed a minutes indicator at 6 o’clock. Its name derives from the apertures, which “jump” as the time advances. “Jump Hour” wristwatches were particularly popular in the 1920s and 1930s. Today, these wristwatches are incredibly evocative of the Deco period. The present watch is a limited edition of 150 examples to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Cartier in 1997, with the case back engraved “1847-1997” below the “LC” logo. A re-edition wristwatch of the historical Tank à Guichet model, its cased in platinum, which is very heavy and gives incredible presence on the wrist. Moreover, the crown is made of ruby, rather than the traditional sapphire, giving the model an unusual twist.
22.
CARTIER — A highly rare, asymmetric and attractive limited edition yellow gold wristwatch
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1997
Reference No.
2842
Case No.
135/150
Model Name
Tank Asymétrique
Material
18K yellow gold
scan for more info
“Jumbo” Calibre
Manual, cal. 9770 MC, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
26.5mm length and 31mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600
In 1996, Cartier released a limited edition based on the original “Parallelogram” from 1936. Always staying true to its core values, Cartier was constantly innovating by pushing the boundaries of design and form, particularly in the first part of the 20th century. The tilted form of the watch was intended to make reading the time while driving easier, which also explains the legible Arabic numerals. Known as the “Jumbo” due to its larger case size, this Tank Asymétrique was made in a limited edition of 150 examples, and displays a beautiful guilloché dial. Preserved in excellent condition, it displays crisp hallmarks on the case back. So desirable and attractive is this model that Cartier launched a new interpretation of the Tank Asymétrique in its 2020 releases.
23.
A very rare and elegant yellow gold curved wristwatch, retailed by Cartier Paris
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1965
Case No.
027’729 and 56’918
Model Name
Grande Tank Cintrée
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, Jaeger-LeCoultre
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
calibre, 18 jewels Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
46.5mm Length and 23mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Cartier pouch
Introduced in 1921, the 9-ligne, Grande Tank Cintrée model was the largest and boldest variation of Cartier’s Tank line. With its long, slender, and gracefully arching case, the Cintrée is without a doubt one of the most beautiful watches made during the 20th century. Measuring a dramatic 46.5mm long by 23mm wide, the Cintrée’s highly curved case was designed to hug the curves of the wrist. The expansive dial and case combine straight lines, sensual curves, and crisp angles, resulting in a ‘modern’ wristwatch with a design far ahead of its time - so much so, in fact, that the design has spawned multiple reeditions; the latest one, just released in 2021, being a virtually perfect replica of the vintage model here exemplified. The most impressive vintage version of Cartier’s iconic Tank model is revered for its gentlemanly elegance. Retailed at Cartier Paris, the case displays the maker’s mark “EJ” and French hallmarks.
C A RT I E R Grande Tank Cintrée
24.
ROLEX — A fine and rare yellow gold and diamond-set wristwatch with green dial, center seconds, day, date indication, bracelet and guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2003
Reference No.
118238
Movement No.
38’322’206
Case No.
K255’034
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold and diamonds
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18k yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “DE” and “83858”, max. length 200mm.
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold deployant clasp stamped “83858”
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 • $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated October 10, 2003, and additional Bucherer Certified Pre-Owned warranty dated October 03, 2020, and additional links.
Ever glamorous, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-finished designs. Since its inception in 1956, it remains one of the most surprising and diverse flagship models Rolex has ever produced. Apart from prototype models, the Day-Date has only been cased in precious metals, attesting to its glamor and prestige. This superlative “President” reference 118238 is an excellent representation of the model from the early 2000s.The timepiece is fitted with a beautiful green dial with original set pave diamonds on the outer dial, green enamelled Arabic numerals and day & date display at 12 and 3 o’clock. To the best of our understanding the present dial was upgraded during a later servicing of the watch. Preserved in attractive overall condition, the present example from 2003 is also accompanied by its original Rolex guarantee and additional links. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
25.
ROLEX — A rare and attractive yellow gold and diamond-set calendar wristwatch with grossular garnet rubellite dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2002
Reference No.
118238
Movement No.
39’095’230
Case No.
Y’851’674
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold, diamonds and
scan for more info
grossular garnet rubellite Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 • $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600
This beautiful yellow gold Day-Date is fitted with an incredibly attractive and rare rubellite dial with diamond-set numerals. The textured effect of the rubellite adds flair, movement and intrigue to the dial layout, and furthermore provides a perfect canvas for the diamond-set numerals to shine on. The calendar windows, like with all hard-stone dials, are framed in yellow gold Hardstone dials are among the most attractive and collectible dials to have ever found their way into the Day-Date line. Beyond the present rubellite, other stones have been employed by Rolex: onyx, malachite, marble, agate and jade are just some examples of this remarkable diversity. To the best of our knowledge, the consignor of the present watch upgraded his timepiece with the present dial during a servicing at Bucherer. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
26. 26.
A highly rare, attractive and well-preserved stainless steel and yellow gold wristwatch with caseback sticker, bracelet and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1984
Reference No.
3800/1
Movement No.
1’425’087
Case No.
2’843’436
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
18K yellow gold
scan for more info
and stainless steel Calibre
Automatic, cal. 335SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold and stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold and stainless steel
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1984 with gilt ribbed dial and its subsequent sale on November 30, 1987 and presentation box.
Slightly smaller than its older sibling reference 3700, reference 3800 is an incredibly compact and chic version of the original Nautilus. In production between 1981 and 2006, the reference 3800 was the mid-sized version in the legendary Patek Philippe Nautilus series. This attractive and exceedingly well-preserved stainless steel and yellow gold example displays a champagne dial, which is confirmed by the Extract from the Archives. It is preserved in excellent condition with crisp bevels and sharp edges throughout and is even accompanied by its original case back sticker and presentation box.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3800/1 Nautilus
27.
A highly rare stainless steel wristwatch with bracelet, copper “tropical” dial and without serial number on caseback
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 1975
Reference No.
5402ST
Movement No.
47’117
Case No.
99’015
Model Name
Royal Oak
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-60,000 $42,700-64,000 €36,200-54,200 Accessories Accompanied by a letter from Audemars Piguet Germany dated May 23, 1979 confirming the watch was made without serial numbers on the caseback and an Audemars Piguet Authenticity and Exclusivity Certificate.
Until very recently it was believed that the original Royal Oak reference 5402 was made in 4 batches or series: A, B, C and D. However a very small number of reference 5402s were made without any alpha-numerical serial numbers on the case back.
The present example is part of this elusive batch that has the particularity of not having a letter nor a serial number on the caseback. It is believed that these models, dating circa 1975, are transitional models between the A and B series. According to Audemars Piguet archives, less than 100 of these versions are thought to have been made, with only a handful having appeared on the international auction market. This reference 5402 houses the extra slim caliber 2121 based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920, that would later be found in the Nautilus wristwatch. In June 2020 Phillips offered a reference 5402 sans alphanumerical number with case number 99’108 - the present example bears case number 99’015 only 93 numbers apart. Not only is the present model extremely rare but its desirability is enhanced even further thanks to the beautiful “tropical” dial with light copper accents in the centre. The present watch is offered with an Audemars Piguet Authenticity and Exclusivity Certificate as well as a letter from Audemars Piguet Germany dated May 23, 1979 confirming the watch was made without serial numbers on the caseback. Today, the Royal Oak remains as iconic as ever, with both modern and vintage examples being exceedingly popular and collectible. The present ultra-rare example without serial numbers is a grail that cannot be missed.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 5402ST Royal Oak “Tropical No Series”
28.
A very rare and extremely fine pink gold world-time automatic wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial, certificate and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2017
Reference No.
5131R
Movement No.
7’117’438
Case No.
6’217’460
Model Name
World Time
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240HU, 33 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Patek Philippe alligator strap
scan for more info
stamped with the Patek Philippe seal Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-100,000 ∑ $64,000-107,000 €54,200-90,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped by Gübelin and dated October 6, 2017, numbered hangtag, product literature, leather document holder, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Patek Philippe’s reference 5131 is a worthy heir to the lineage of coveted worldtime watches the Patek Philippe brand is famous for. With the advent of the industrial age came global trade and travel and, as a direct result, there was a need for timekeeping devices capable of tracking time in multiple locations. The worldtime complication, other than being a utilitarian invention, is also a window into history. With the rise and fall of nations, one capital replaced another as reference city for a specific time zone.
Surprisingly, watchmakers did not immediately take the opportunity of creating worldtime watches based on the 24hour time zones set up by the International Meridian Conference of 1884. Was this due to the complexity of the mechanism, the lack of demand, national issues with the exact division of the time zones or the legendary Swiss neutrality (not wanting to put forward one nation by having its capital be the city of reference for that time zone)? Whatever the answer, worldtime watches as we know them today remained off the radar until the early 1930s and an invention by genius watchmaker Louis Cottier. It is around that period in 1930/1931 that Cottier designed a movement featuring a local time with hour and minute hands at center, linked to a rotating 24hour ring, and bordered by a fixed outer dial ring with the names of different cities inscribed on it. The city of choice (local time zone) is placed at the 12 o'clock position, the watch would then display the correct time in both hours and minutes, night and day, for every time zone in the world simultaneously. With reference 5131, Patek Philippe resurrected the line of Cloisonné world time pieces - which originally appeared in the 1950s and are now considered among the masterpieces of the brand. Launched originally in yellow gold, it was produced in the three gold colors and in platinum. This year, the last scion of reference 5131 (the platinum version) was discontinued, officially sanctioning the end of this landmark reference. Its heir is reference 5231 - at the moment of cataloguing, only available in yellow gold.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5131R “Worldtime”
29.
A rare and attractive platinum and stainless steel limited edition perpetual calendar wristwatch with “Tuscan” dial, bracelet and presentation winding box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1994
Reference No.
25820SP
Movement No.
374’092
Case No.
D41996 and 16/25
Model Name
Royal Oak “Tuscan”
Material
Platinum and stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2120/04, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum and stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum and stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-120,000 $64,000-128,000 €54,200-108,000 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet undated and unstamped Certificate of Authenticity, Extract from the Registers confirming the present watch was produced in 1994, and winding box
There is so much more to the Royal Oak than meets the eye. Starting out almost 50 years ago as a wild bet to create a “sports” watch that cost more than classic gold timepieces, it is a model that has become one of the best selling leisure watches of the past years and an immediately recognizable icon.
The Royal Oak is a timepiece that set the benchmark on many fronts. Not only was it the very first luxury sports watch when launched in 1972, it was also the very first luxury sports watch featuring a complication. In 1982, exactly 10 years after its launch, the Royal Oak was presented with a perpetual calendar - not only a rare complication at the time, as very few brands were still producing such timepieces, but an audacious move that housed a delicate complication in a steel sports watch. Ever since, Audemars Piguet has been boldly pushing the boundaries with the perpetual calendar Royal Oak models, whether in terms of metals for the case or dial designs. The present example is an incredibly seductive and visually arresting model in steel with a platinum bezel and center links, along with a gorgeous blue textured dial nicknames “Tuscan”. This Royal Oak features a superb movement: caliber 2120/2800 which was born in 1977 making it at the time the world’s slimmest perpetual calendar movement with a thickness of only 3.95mm. A watch of un-comparable charisma and in overall excellent condition, the present watch is number 16 from a limited edition of 25.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 25820SP Royal Oak “Tuscan”
30.
An attractive, massive and extremely rare pink gold chronograph wristwatch with date, bracelet, Certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2014
Reference No.
5980/1R
Movement No.
5’745’403
Case No.
4’627’685
scan for more info
Model Name
Nautilus, “The Boss”
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. CH 28-520 C, 35 jewels, stamped
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Patek Philippe bracelet stamped
with the Patek Philippe seal “A384GAP” to the endlinks, max length 210mm Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe double deployant clasp
Dimensions
43.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-100,000 • $64,000-107,000 €54,200-90,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped by Gübelin and dated February 1, 2014, setting pin, product literature, leather document holder, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Massive, eye-catching and utterly luxurious, reference 5980 is one of the most impressive modern chronograph watches available on the market today. It manages to unite in one case the ineffable elegance of the Genta-designed Nautilus architecture, and the unrestrained statement-power of a full gold wristwatch. While this design is quite opposite to the understatement Patek Philippe is famous for, it is intriguing how the company succeeds in achieving a balance between unrestrained opulence, technicality and elegance. Given the nearly mystical appeal of this timepiece, it is no surprise that the model is virtually impossible to acquire at retail, with waiting lists purported to span 6 years or even more. The present example, preserved in barely worn condition, is offered without reserve and accompanied by all its original accessories. Furthermore, with a delivery date at the very beginning of February 2014, this piece classifies as one of the earliest examples produced. The reference was in fact officially announced in April 2013, and normally Patek Philippe begins deliveries of the new models around summertime. That means the present watch was manufactured in the first year of production of the model. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5980/1R Nautilus “The Boss”
31.
An attractive and very rare limited edition red quartz TPT tonneau-shaped dual-time wristwatch with tourbillon, function selector, power reserve, torque indication, original warranty and presentation box
The present RM 022 Tourbillon Aerodyne Dual Time with quartz TPT case is part of the Red-White-Blue Limited Edition watches launched in 2018 and only available at Richard Mille boutiques in the USA. Each model was limited to only 10 pieces, with each series made in red, white or blue replicating the colors of the American flag. Fitted with the Calibre RM022, it has a manual winding tourbillon movement with power reserve indicator placed at 11 o’clock and a torque indicator placed at 2 o’clock. The latter indicates the tension in the mainspring and the optimal wind position. The second time display is placed at 3 o’clock and read via a sapphire disc that is adjusted in one-hour increments using a pusher at 9 o’clock. Finally the crown functions are indicated via a small hand at 4 o’clock. By pressing on the crown, the watch can be set to winding, neutral or time setting mode. The watch’s baseplate, when viewed carefully, has a honeycomb pattern that is made out of a special material called orthorhombic titanium aluminide. As you might have guessed, it is very strong and light, so Richard Mille decided to use it for the baseplate to improve strength and torsional resistance of the tourbillon. Additionally, the honeycomb pattern gives the dial a light and airy feel.
RICHARD MILLE RM022 Tourbillon Aerodyne Dual Time “Red Quartz”
31.
An attractive and very rare limited edition red quartz TPT tonneau-shaped dual-time wristwatch with tourbillon, function selector, power reserve, torque indication, original warranty and presentation box
Manufacturer
Richard Mille
Year
2018
Reference No.
RM022
Movement No.
182
Case No.
104 and 08/10
Model Name
Aerodyne
Material
Quartz and Carbon TPT
Calibre
Manual, cal. RM022, 28 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Kevlar
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Titanium Richard Mille pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Width and 50mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle stamped
Estimate CHF 250,000-500,000 $267,000-534,000 €226,000-452,000 Accessories Accompanied by Richard Mille warranty dated 2018, Instruction booklet, service booklet, cleaning cloth, presentation box, extra kevlar strap, extra rubber strap with deployant clasp
The case of this incredible timepiece is made from ultra strong and light quartz TPT while the middle is made from carbon TPT. In order to create this bright red case, thin fibers of quartz with a thickness of no more than 45 microns were first aligned and saturated in colored resins, and then heated and subjected to a pressure of 6 bar before being machined. The present RM22 “Red” is impressive on absolutely every level, from its total all or nothing philosophy, to its highly complex movement and cutting edge technology used for both movement and case material. In excellent condition and fresh to the market the present watch is offered with its box and papers.
RICHARD MILLE RM022 Tourbillon Aerodyne Dual Time “Red Quartz”
32.
An extremely fine and one of only six known stainless steel perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, 24 hours and leap year indicator
Reference 5004 in stainless steel is part of the elusive Patek Philippe models that were never featured in the brand’s catalogue but open upon application to the brand’s best clients. Although not presented as a limited edition per se, production numbers were very low. The present example is only the 6th to appear on the market. One of the great classics of the modern Patek Philippe catalogue, the reference 5004 was produced between 1994 and 2010. It is the first Patek Philippe serially-produced perpetual calendar chronograph model with moon phases - a set of complications rooted in the history of the brand, the first model made in series being reference 1518 launched in 1941 - with the additional split-second complication. Together with the reference 5070 and 5970, it is the last Patek Philippe model to employ the “Nouvelle Lemania” based calibre.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5004A
32.
An extremely fine and one of only six known stainless steel perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, 24 hours and leap year indicator
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2012
Reference No.
5004A
Movement No.
3’275’527
Case No.
4’450’372
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. CHR 27-70 Q,
scan for more info
28 jewels Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 200,000-400,000 • $213,000-427,000 €181,000-362,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 2012 and its subsequent sale on August 24, 2012
It was at the time incredibly difficult to be granted the privilege of purchasing any reference 5004. The intricacy of the split second module added to the already complex perpetual calendar chronograph and the enormously high finishing standard of the company commanded an incredibly slow production rate. In 2011 Patek Philippe announced the discontinuation of the reference 5004 with a final run of pieces in stainless steel, a metal the brand had not used before for its highly complicated pieces. The dial was furthermore different to the regular production pieces as it featured black oxidized indexes instead of the habitual applied Arabic numerals. Fresh to the market, the present 5004 in steel offers the rare opportunity to obtain an incredibly attractive and rare timepiece. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5004A
33.
A previously unknown, first of its kind, extremely important, rare and attractive yellow gold worldtime wristwatch with two crowns and cloisonné enamel dial depicting Eurasia
“Grail watch”. Arguably, it is difficult to find a more abused term in the world of watch collecting, but this is the one instance where the word can be used with its original undiluted meaning: the present watch is - simply put- one of the most soughtafter, unobtainable, attractive and fabled timepieces in the world; few parallels can be drawn in terms of pure watchmaking importance (at least in the realm of serially produced watches, without considering watches with historic provenance or Pièces Uniques), but jewels such as the black dial diamond numerals Rolex reference 6062 or the Patek Philippe steel 1518 come to mind: this is truly horological endgame. Phillips is proud to introduce to the world the "Silk Road" 2523: the earliest ever made Patek Philippe Cloisonné reference 2523, a previously unknown masterpiece with dial representing Eurasia. HISTORICAL BACKGROUND Due to the unrestrained aesthetic attractiveness of the watch, a single glance is enough to understand we are in the presence of something well beyond a “usual” important timepiece, but an in-depth analysis of the history and construction of the watch helps to shed further light on its “Ultimate Watch” status. The complication is defined by the presence of two rings: a fixed - but adjustable - one with the 24 time zones, and a second 24-hour ring, usually divided in nocturnal and diurnal halves for easier readability, revolving counterclockwise. This simple but brilliant system allows for the correct time for each city to be read on the respective adjacent segment of the 24-hour ring: a true Columbus’ Egg of watchmaking. The worldtime complication is a direct consequence of the advancements in the field of communication technology. While today it is rightfully identified as a traveller’s complication, its original purpose was in fact more “static”; the earliest examples do not even have a system to adjust the time zone. In its first conceptualisation, it meant to allow people with international business/interests to track simultaneously the time everywhere in the world. Imagine being PanAm CEO in the 1950s, and having to place consecutive calls (a real-world situation, since the mid first half of the past century) to your Tokyo, Rome, New York and Sydney offices. Knowing what time it is in each city helps you avoid calling someone out of office hours or during the night. That is why watchmaker Louis Cottier developed the system in the 1930s, when intercontinental telecommunication was beginning to be more commonplace. Very early in it’s evolution, however, the revolving city ring was introduced, thus “consecrating” forever the worldtime as a traveller’s timepiece.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2523 Two-Crown Worldtime “The Silk Road”
33.
A previously unknown, first of its kind, extremely important, rare and attractive yellow gold worldtime wristwatch with two crowns and cloisonné enamel dial depicting Eurasia
Reference 2523 is in fact the final step (in vintage wristwatches) of a refinement process that had begun two decades earlier. The very first Patek Philippe examples of the system involved a fixed city ring (as mentioned, without the possibility of easily changing the local time zone) and were executed as practically one-off -pieces such as reference 515 (as rectangular model), two modified examples of reference 96 (96HU), and references 542 and 1416, two 3-piece series, probably market tests together with a prototype series of three 1415 examples - for commercialisation. The first serially produced model was reference 1415, featuring a diminutive 31mm diameter and a revolving bezel, allowing user-friendly change of time zone. In fact it proved itself quite successful - for such a new and unorthodox model - with about 115 pieces made mostly during the 1940s. The evolution of ref. 1415, reference 2523 is miles away from its ancestor in terms of design. It features an oversize-for-the-time 36 mm case, two crowns (one to set the city ring) and a city
Photo used with the permission of Crott Consulting
ring which becomes integral part of the dial rather than being engraved to the bezel (a “bead and notches” system allows for the city ring to smoothly snap into place at each time zone, a detail which highlights the attention Patek Philippe reserved to this model). It would seem that such elaborate and refined aesthetics which make the timepiece so iconic and attractive nowadays - were too ahead of their time: reference 2523 was in fact a commercial disaster, and consequently production was very limited. A slightly modified version (ref. 2523-1) was lunched as well, but with no different outcome. The importance of this model is well recognized by the brand itself: 3 examples are housed in the Patek Philippe museum. That more or less equals to 10% of the total production, making this model the one with the highest ratio of examples present in the museum vs examples made, among serially produced references - though “serially” is more than an euphemism, considering they were mostly handmade by Cottier.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2523 Two-Crown Worldtime “The Silk Road”
In 1947, he moved to 20, Rue Ancienne and began to industrialise and improve his production methodology. It is during these years that he acquired the trust of Rolex’s founder Hans Wilsdorf to the point that, also thanks to the recommendation of horological historian Alfred Chapuis, he was appointed curator of his collection, a post most congenial to him also due to his love for history. He was in fact also a dedicated scholar of Genevan History, and his renown in the field was so high that important collectors would go to him asking not only for restorations, but also for historical researches on their timepieces. Furthermore, he was also a talented painter and aquarellist. He kept on developing new horological solutions, mostly for Patek Philippe, such as the present two-crown update to his worldtime system (1950); a 1954 wristwatch with double dial but single movement (a world’s first) and 1958 linear hour watch (which is the inspiration for the contemporary Urwerk’s “Cobra” timepieces).
LOUIS COTTIER Born in Geneva in 1894 to automata-maker Emmanuel Cottier, Louis Cottier was consequently in contact with watch/ automata-making since the very beginning of his life. He was formally trained in watchmaking at the École d’Horlogerie in Rue Necker, Genève. During these years, he was classmate with Edouard Wenger - celebrated casemaker and lifelong friend and trained under watchmaker Henri Hess, whom he held in the highest of regards. He will later recall “In 1908, we (Edouard and I) were side by side in the class of Herni Hess. … None (other teacher) has left such a deep and lasting mark as Henri Hess did.” After school, he worked for Jaeger until 1931, when the Great Depression had him loose his job and subsequently set up his own shop in Geneva at 45, Rue Vautier. It is with the introduction of the worldtime system that same year (patent no. 270085) that he made his name immortal. In fact, the inspiration for the idea came from his father’s unsuccessful attempt at tackling the same problem. When introduced, the worldtime complication was a truly novel complication, with a completely new aesthetic layout and which address a previously non-existent need. The novelty effect was in fact a success, and companies such as Vacheron Constantin, Agassiz (today known as Longines), and Rolex were also among Cottier's clients.
His final contribution to watchmaking history comes in 1959, when he patented the jump-hour travel time system found on Patek Philippe reference 2597. He passed away on September 16, 1966 in Carouge, the Geneva neighbourhood where he lived and worked for virtually his entire life.
33.
A previously unknown, first of its kind, extremely important, rare and attractive yellow gold worldtime wristwatch with two crowns and cloisonné enamel dial depicting Eurasia
TECHNICAL ANALYSIS MOVEMENT: The overall execution of the timepiece is, from a purely technical standpoint, absolutely extraordinary. The watch is powered by one of Patek Philippe’s most reliable “time only” movements of the time, 12 lignes calibre 12’’’400, personally modified by Louis Cottier - the inventor of the world time system. The legendary watchmaker in fact insisted for personally executing the final assembly of every single piece (and to hand-make the hands) of the production. Going beyond the usual Patek Philippe quality, the restricted production output and the differently decorated dials meant that each one of these watches was treated practically as a Pièce Unique - the most important components of the movement and dial hand-finished and univocally linked to each watch: in fact, a movement number can be found on virtually all the main parts, including: 24 hour disc (movement number stamped to the underside, and then last 2 digits repeated on the metal ring with the toothing), city ring (hand-engraved to the underside), toothed gear for the city ring (hand-engraved to the upper-side), movement (both sides), and of course to the underside of the enamel disc together with Louis Cottier’s monogram LC. The case number is present, beyond inside the caseback as usual, also on the inside of the bezel (last 3 digits hand engraved twice, in Roman numerals and in Arabic numerals) and is also stamped to the movement bracing.
CASE : Made by Geneva-based Antoine Gerlach - poinçon number 4 in a Key - it is one of the most fascinating and complex Patek Philippe designs. Already, the inclusion of a second crown - making this the only vintage single-dial Patek Philippe model sporting 2 crowns - was extremely avant-garde, for Patek Philippe’s standard. The large 36mm diameter was also destined to raise eyebrows, especially when found in an elegant gold Patek Philippe dress watch. However, it is the design of the lugs that will live on as one of the most brave and ultimately impressive, even though it took decades to be appreciated - architectures employed by the brand. In tune with the modernist vibe of the early 1950s, the lugs are a sculpted triumph of facets and edges - a design as incredibly attractive in its complexity as it is sensitive to polishing, the soft gold edges easily rounding and loosing their angular impact. Luckily, in the present instance the entire case is beautifully preserved, and the complex lugs shine in all their glory. The presence of the crisp gold hallmark to the band is further testament to how well cared-for the piece has been for its entire life. Additionally, this specific case presents a quirk seen on no other 2523 so far: the top right lug is stamped to the outside with a hallmark, most likely the import mark of the original country of destination.
DIAL: Reference 2523 (or 2523-1) in any iteration is considered by the most important collectors worldwide one of the pinnacles of Patek Philippe. However, the cloisonné dial versions have achieved legendary status since the beginning of the field as an organised endeavour. Most notably, a Cloisonné reference 2523 was featured on the cover of the thematic auction "The Art of Patek Philippe" held in 1989 to celebrate Patek Philippe’s 150th anniversary. There are many enamelling techniques known to watchmaking. A list of the best-known ones would include: Grand Feu: plain (monochrome, usually white) enamel. Flinqué: transparent enamel applied to a guilloché metal base. Champlevé: enamel applied to sectors carved within a metal plate. Cloisonné: enamel applied to compartments (cloisons) realized with gold wire. Miniature: a painted enamelled photorealistic scene
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2523 Two-Crown Worldtime “The Silk Road”
33.
A previously unknown, first of its kind, extremely important, rare and attractive yellow gold worldtime wristwatch with two crowns and cloisonné enamel dial depicting Eurasia
Cloisonné enamel has developed a cult following in the watch collecting world not only for the absolute mastery of the craft needed to bend the micrometrical gold wires into the requested shape and then fill the compartments with the appropriate differently coloured enamel powders (not to mention the nightmare that is firing cloisonné enamels in the kiln). The artistic effect it provides is an equally seductive lure. The technique forces the artist to necessarily produce naive, nearly childlike motifs which can be compared in their powerful simplicity to Matisse’s style (his masterpiece “La Danse”, for example, would be an ideal candidate for a cloisonné enamel homage). One cannot talk about enamel without mentioning the difference between vintage and modern enamel. As some of the components originally used for enamelling (such as chrome and lead) were deemed too unsafe for the enamelers - who risked to inhale the powders during execution - they were banned by governments, and manufacturers had to find alternatives. Unfortunately, however, there was a reason why those specific materials were employed: they grant a much more deep, glossy and translucent quality to the enamel, which unfortunately their modern counterparts cannot match.
Given their cost and technical difficulty, cloisonné dials were usually employed in “time-only” pieces - most likely in order to maximise the surface available for the artwork and to minimise the holes in the dial. In the entire panorama of vintage wrist timepieces, there is only one exception to this rule that we can think of: the Cloisonné 2523s, making this reference the only vintage one which merges the technical aspect of complicated watchmaking and the profoundly artistic soul of cloisonné enamelling. Taking this into consideration, it is more understandable why these incredibly scarce pieces are by many considered the Final Frontier of collecting. As mentioned, three cloisonné designs were made for this model, all representing geographical maps: a North America version, a South America version, and the present map. While its focus is undoubtedly on Europe (and indeed it is described as such in the Patek Philippe Archives), it extends beyond the Old World boundaries, to the point that the design has come to be known as "Eurasia" by the community. The only one of the known 2523 map designs to include part of Asia, on it one can immediately and extremely easily distinguish Italy (even Sicily), Spain, France, the British and Irish islands and the Scandinavian and Danish peninsulas, and to the east the Far East Lands; in fact, either intentionally or serendipically, the “east shore” of the landmass broadly recalls the Asian/Pacific coastline. It is because of this expansive map that the piece was nicknamed “The Silk Road”, connecting Europe and the East. It is worth mentioning that the colorful dial gives to the timepiece a versatility hardly ever seen on watches of this importance. This is why the piece is supplied with 3 Patek Philippe custom made straps, a brown one for the more serious occasions, and then two more carefree and eye-catching - and some may say daring - options which perfectly complement the palette of the enamel: mustard yellow and pistachio green.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2523 Two-Crown Worldtime “The Silk Road”
33.
A previously unknown, first of its kind, extremely important, rare and attractive yellow gold worldtime wristwatch with two crowns and cloisonné enamel dial depicting Eurasia
PRODUCTION DETAILS AND NUMBERS Reference 2523 was fitted - despite its low production numbers - with a number of different dial styles (surprisingly, none of them the standard “silvered” dial): beyond the cloisonné dials, guilloché pattern and blue translucent enamel were employed. Furthermore, the reference was made in 3 metals: yellow gold, pink gold and white gold. It is apparent that such a plethora of variations was an effort - ultimately futile - to try and ingratiate a market that had reserved a less than tepid welcome to the watch. Curiously, reference 2523-1 only features plain silvered dials, or guilloché dials. A comprehensive list of all the known 2523s is summarised in the table on the opposite page, which shows us that: The production of reference 2523 movements was made in two batches, one starting with movement no. 720’300, and the other with no. 722’700. - The latest known movement no. of the first batch is 720’304, and movement 720’312 is a ref. 96, thus the total output of this batch is between 5 and 12 pieces. All the known Eurasia maps are from this batch. - The latest known movement no. of the second batch is 722’719, and movement 722’724 is a ref. 2431, thus the total output of this batch is between 20 and 24 pieces. All the known Americas maps are from this batch. Consequently, the total output for reference 2523 is between 25 and 36 pieces, one of the lowest outputs for any serially produced reference.
Of the known ref. 2523, only 12 have a cloisonné enamel dial: - 6 North America: 3 yellow gold, 2 pink gold, 1 white gold - 3 South America: 2 yellow, 1 pink - 3 Eurasia, including the present new discovery, all in yellow gold Interestingly, the cases appear to mostly bear consecutive numbers but to have been assigned randomly to the movements, especially for the first batch. The earliest known case number is yellow gold case 305’699: an outlier, possibly a final test eventually employed in production (and used for the earliest movement 720’300). Until the discovery of this watch, the earliest known case no. of the main batch was 306’197 (found on movement 720’303). The present case however is much earlier (306’193). It thus becomes by far the earliest known of the main batch which, given the currently available information, appears to have numbers between 306’193 to 306’212 for yellow gold cases, and then from 306’213 to at least 306’220 for pink gold cases. The one white gold case is an outlier, with number 307’475. Furthermore, as movement number 720’000 is a known watch with guilloché dial, the present 720’301 piece is the very first Cloisonné 2523 ever produced.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2523 Two-Crown Worldtime “The Silk Road”
Movemen t
Ca se
M et a l
Di a l
Fi rs t B atc h 7 20 3 00
30 5 69 9
Yellow gold
Guil loché
7 20 3 01
30 6 1 93
Yellow gold
Eur a sia - t he pres ent watch
7 20 3 02
Un kn o w n
U nkn own
U nkn own
7 20 30 3
30 6 1 97
Yellow gold
Eur a sia
7 20 3 04
30 6 20 1
Yellow gold
Eur a sia
7 20 30 5
Un kn o w n
U nkn own
U nkn own
7 20 30 6
Un kn o w n
U nkn own
U nkn own
7 20 3 07
Un kn o w n
U nkn own
U nkn own
7 20 3 08
Un kn o w n
U nkn own
U nkn own
7 20 30 9
Un kn o w n
U nkn own
U nkn own
7 20 3 10
Un kn o w n
U nkn own
U nkn own
7 20 31 1
Un kn o w n
U nkn own
U nkn own
7 20 31 2
ref. 96 Se con d Ba tch
7 22 7 00
30 6 20 2
Yellow gold
Guill oché gold
7 22 7 0 1
Un co nf ir med
Yellow gold
Guill oché gold
7 22 7 02
30 6 20 7
Yellow gold
Guill oché gold
7 22 7 0 3
30 6 20 8
Yellow gold
B lue ena me l
7 22 7 0 4
30 6 20 9
Yellow gold
B lue ena me l
7 22 7 0 5
30 6 20 4
Yellow gold
B lue ena me l
7 22 7 06
30 6 20 5
Yellow gold
N or t h A mer ica
7 22 7 07
30 7475
Whit e gold
N or t h A mer ica N or t h A mer ica
7 22 7 0 8
30 6 21 0
Yellow gold
7 22 7 09
30 6 21 1
Yellow gold
N or t h A mer ica
7 22 7 1 0
30 6 20 6
Yellow gold
Sou th A me rica
7 22 7 1 1
30 6 21 2
Yellow gold
Sou th A me rica
7 22 7 12
30 6 21 3
Pink gold
Guill oché gold
7 22 7 13
P ro bab ly 3 06 21 4
Proba bly Pink gold
U nkn own
7 22 7 1 4
30 6 21 5
Pink gold
B lue ena me l
7 22 7 15
30 6 21 6
Pink gold
B lue ena me l
7 22 7 1 6
30 6 21 7
Pink gold
N or t h A mer ica
7 22 7 17
30 6 21 8
Pink gold
N or t h A mer ica
7 22 7 18
Pro ba b ly 30 6219
Proba bly Pink gold
U nkn own
7 22 7 1 9
30 6 22 0
Pink gold
Sou th A me rica
7 22 7 20
Un kn o w n
U nkn own
U nkn own
7 22 7 21
Un kn o w n
U nkn own
U nkn own
7 22 7 22
Un kn o w n
U nkn own
U nkn own
7 22 7 23
Un kn o w n
U nkn own
U nkn own
7 22 7 24
ref. 24 31
33.
A previously unknown, first of its kind, extremely important, rare and attractive yellow gold worldtime wristwatch with two crowns and cloisonné enamel dial depicting Eurasia
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1953
Reference No.
2523
Movement No.
720’301
Case No.
306’193
Model Name
Two-Crown Worldtime,
Material
18K yellow gold
scan for more info
"Eurasia", “Silk Road” Calibre
Manual, cal. 12’’’400HU, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
With three custom made Patek Philippe leather straps: brown, yellow and pistachio.
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed by maker, enamel disc signed “LC” by watchmaker
Estimate In excess of CHF 3,500,000 $3,740,000 €3,160,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming produciton of the present watch with cloisonné enamel dial representing Europe in 1953 and its subsequent sale on December 7, 1954.
Such a remarkable scarcity, when coupled with the legendary status of this model, means that when a collector manages to acquire one of them, she or he hardly ever lets it go. This is apparent when analysing how often these watches appear at auction, and how scarcer their appearance is becoming. While most of the known cloisonné dials appeared at some point in the 1990s/early 2000s, in the past 20 years they appeared at auction 4 times: in 2002 (Eurasia), then 4 years later in 2006 (North America), then 6 years later in 2012 (a different North America example), and now, 10 years later, the current specimen. It is safe to say that the mythical aura that envelops these watches is only destined to increase, while their appearance at auction is following the opposite trend. This previously unknown watch was discovered in Europe. It resided in an important Italian collection until the mid-1990s, when it was acquired by the current owner. Combining rarity, technical proficiency, mind-blowing good looks and ultimate exclusivity, this watch is unarguably one of the most important timepieces in existence and it would be the crown jewel of even the most important wristwatch collection.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2523 Two-Crown Worldtime “The Silk Road”
34.
TUDOR — A fine and attractive stainless steel dual-time wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box, retailed by Ronchi
Manufacturer
Tudor
Year
2020
Reference No.
79830RB
Case No.
Q188961
Model Name
Black Bay GMT “Ronchi”
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. MT5652, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Tudor bracelet stamped, “72060”, max length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Tudor deployant clasp
Dimensions
41mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed, further engraved “Ronchi 90° N.65/90” on the case back
Estimate CHF 2,700-4,500 • $2,900-4,800 €2,400-4,100 Accessories Accompanied by Tudor guarantee dated 23th January 2020 stamped Ronchi, guarantee booklet, instruction manual, product literature, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.
Taking inspiration from divers’ wristwatches manufactured by the firm in the 1950s, the new Tudor Black Bay iteration of the original ref. 7922 was introduced at Baselworld 2012. Extremely well executed, the case retains its “no crown guard” style with a dial extremely similar to its original model, and became a commercial success when it was launched to the public.
The present Tudor Black Bay GMT was part of the firm’s novelties introduced in Baselworld 2018. Launched as the first GMT model in the Black Bay lineup, it was widely accepted that it featured a multi-colored “Pepsi” bezel insert paying obvious homage to the Rolex GMT-Master. Maintaining much of an identical aesthetic in case design to its other Black Bay counterparts, the GMT model is slightly larger at 41mm, catering to contemporary demand. The case and dial is balanced with a modernized riveted-style bracelet and the timepiece is without a doubt one of the most perfectly executed modern iterations of a vintage professional diver’s watch. The present example is presented in “brand new” condition retaining its full factory protective stickers on the case and clasp. As showcased on the dial and case back, this particular example was specially commissioned by Italian official retailer “Ronchi” for its 90th Anniversary, and is accompanied by the full set of accessories with a guarantee card dated 2020. The present example number 65 of 90 is perhaps the perfect option for a collector seeking for a modern GMT wristwatch. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
35.
ROLEX — A fine stainless steel automatic chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, Guarantee, invoice and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1995
Reference No.
16520
Movement No.
92’920
Case No.
W366034
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “78390” and “503B”, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
“78390” and “W4”
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by original invoice dated August 14, 1995, bank transfer receipt, Rolex punched Guarantee dated August 12, 1995 and stamped by Montres Rolex SA, product literature, numbered hangtag, “fauxseal” hangtag, plastic bezel protection ring, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Reference 16520 is among Rolex’s most innovative models ever produced. Housing the iconic Zenith-based caliber 4030 mechanism, the model was fitted with the first automatic chronograph movement in the firm’s history. At the time of launch in 1988, it quickly became a cult classic and garnered an immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers. Today, the Zenith
Daytona has become an even more collectible watch due to its rarity, good looks and importance within the history of Rolex. The present example is remarkable due to a number of factors: its provenance, its accessories and its condition. Offered by the original owner, this watch was in fact sold in Geneva and not by a simple retailer, but by the maker itself: the guarantee proudly states under the retailer name field: “Montres Rolex S.A.” Furthermore, in an example of perfect Swiss efficiency, the original owner jealously safeguarded not only all the original accessories, but even the original invoice and the original bank wire receipt (from which one can see the watch was paid 4’760 CHF). Finally, the piece is preserved in excellent condition: obviously sparsely worn, it features an unpolished case with strong edges and satin finish, and only the slightest hint of wear. Combining provenance, condition and undoubtedly one of the most complete set of accessories one can ever wish to find accompanying a 16520, the present watch is a rare occasion for the most spoiled of collectors.
36.
ROLEX — A very attractive and fine yellow gold calendar wristwatch with sweep center seconds, ammonite dial, diamond-set Arabic numerals and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1991
Reference No.
scan for more info
18238 inside caseback stamped 18200
Movement No.
6’209’891
Case No.
X’257’145
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold, ammonite and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, endlinks stamped “55B”, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
stamped “8385”
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 • $12,800-19,200 €10,800-16,300 Accessories Accompanied by original Rolex International Service Guarantee dated December 09, 2020, Bucherer service papers and pouch.
Incredibly rare, this reference 18238 most notably displays a hard stone ammonite dial with diamond-set Arabic markers. One of the most unusual dial materials ever to be featured on a watch, this dial in made up of fossilized ammonites (a prehistorical mollusc). Consequently, no two dials are exactly the same in nature, giving each watch a distinctive and unique appearance. Rolex in particular excels in using hard stone and unusual materials. The manufacture has elevated its dress watches with materials such as rubellite, blood stone, coral, and a number of different fossil-bering stones, providing an unusual design twist to classic models. To the best of our knowledge, the consignor of the present watch had upgraded his timepiece with the present dial during a servicing. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
37.
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive white gold and diamond-set calendar wristwatch with center seconds, meteorite dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1990
Reference No.
18239
Movement No.
5’692’660
Case No.
E’779’483
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K white gold, diamonds
scan for more info
and meteorite Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 165mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 • $12,800-19,200 €10,800-16,300 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex pouch.
This superb white gold Day-Date is fitted with an incredibly attractive and very rare meteorite dial with diamond-set numerals. The textured effect of the meteorite adds flair, movement and intrigue to the dial layout, and furthermore provides a perfect canvas for the diamond-set numerals to shine on. The calendar windows, like with all hard-stone dials, are framed in white metal. Hardstone dials are among the most attractive and collectible dials to have ever found their way into the Day-Date line. Beyond the present meteorite, other stones have been employed by Rolex: onyx, malachite, marble, agate and jade are just some examples of this remarkable diversity. To the best of our knowledge, the consignor of the present watch had upgraded his timepiece with the present dial during a servicing. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
38.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — An unusual and elegant pink gold wristwatch with rotating satellite display complication, blank certificate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 1995
Reference No.
257200
Movement No.
387’552
Case No.
D25764
Model Name
Star Wheel
Material
18k pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2124, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold Audemars Piguet pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 ∑ $8,500-12,800 €7,200-10,800 Accessories Accompanied by blank Audemars Piguet Certificate of Origin and Guarantee, instruction manual, fitted box, outer packaging, hang tag and AP paper pad.
A cavalcade of surprising elements combine to make this Audemars Piguet Star Wheel a gem of technical savoir-faire and design. Introduced in 1989, the Star Wheel collection features an unusual time indication via the star wheel complication - three sapphire disks with printed hours rotate on a center wheel, the hour pointing the minutes on a 120-degree sector. The present very rare pink gold example displays a delightful Arabesque engraved motif on three quarters of the dial, as well as a delicate guilloché motif in its centre giving it undeniable gravitas. A unique complication merged with elegant motifs and a rare pink gold case makes the present Star Wheel an excellent addition to any collection.
39.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — A rare and attractive platinum skeletonized perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 1990
Reference No.
25668PT
Movement No.
225’938
Case No.
13, 89’975 and B89975
Model Name
Quantieme Perpetuel
Material
Platinum
scan for more info
Automatique Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2120/1, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 • $10,700-16,000 €9,000-13,600
Audemars Piguet’s first automatic perpetual calendar was released in 1978 - the thinnest version in the world, at the time. The possibilities were endless, and Audemars Piguet adorned its model with a variety of dial variants, ranging from simple white versions, to a fancy “Tuscan” finish and even gem-set designs. Powered by Audemars Piguet’s famous caliber 2120, the present timepiece is cased in platinum and incredibly striking. Displaying a skeletonized dial, the month, day and date rings are rendered in blue, contrasting against the platinum case. At 36 millimeters, the case size is perfect for any occasion, whether discreetly worn under a shirt or a more flamboyant setting. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
40.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — An unusual, very rare and attractive ceramic and titanium diver’s twocrown automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date, revolving sixty-minute ring Guarantee and box, number 19 of a 300 pieces limited edition
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2014
Reference No.
15707CB and 0019
Movement No.
893’495
Case No.
I 17506
Model Name
Royal Oak Offshore
Material
Ceramic and titanium
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3120, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Audemars Piguet rubber strap
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Audemars Piguet titanium pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-25,000 $12,800-26,700 €10,800-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificat de Garantie booklet dated July 18, 2014 and stamped by Audemars Piguet Iberia, instruction booklet, fitted wooden presentation book and outer packaging
Once Audemars Piguet obtained universal acclaim for its Royal Oak sports watch model, it was the payoff of a daring bet - a luxury steel watch in the 1970s - that in fact took years to materialise. The company however did not sit on its laurels. Instead of passively (and safely) capitalising on the model, they used it as the base of an even more experimental evolution in the 1990s: the Offshore.
More modern, larger, and more aggressive than its progenitor, the Offshore was also subject to extreme experimentation, both in terms of design and in terms of watchmaking as well (with some extremely complex prototype and concept models known). The present piece - number 19 of a 300 pieces limited edition and offered complete of all its accessories - fully represents how this creative vein did not express itself exclusively with extravagant colors or daring technical innovations, but even with a surprisingly pure, monochromatic full-white design enriched by few strategically placed dark details: hands, scales and numerals, on the dial; the titanium details and the black gasket - acting as a frame to the ensemble - on the case.
41.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — A fine and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with date, guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2014
Reference No.
26470ST
Movement No.
889’525
Case No.
I23767-1212
Model Name
Royal Oak Offshore
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Chronograph Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3126, 59 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap and buckle
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,800 €7,200-10,800 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet warranty dated 3rd August 2014, authentication and register certificate, instruction manual, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.
The Royal Oak from the original slim version of 1972 to more modern reiterations has always been a creative playground for Audemars Piguet who in 1992 for the twentieth anniversary of its iconic model presented a version on testosterone: thicker, larger and bolder than its older sibling, the Royal Oak Offshore was destined to fail (like the original Royal Oak) but instead it became a brand staple and launched the trend of larger sized rugged watches. Contrary to earlier models featuring rubber clad chronograph pushers and crown the present example features these elements in ceramic for greater durability furthermore giving the watch a more cutting edge hi-tech look.
In excellent overall condition and presented with the full set of accessories, it is certainly a perfect wristwatch for the weekend cruise.
42.
A highly rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “tropical” dial, bracelet, certificate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 2000
Reference No.
25721ST
Movement No.
482’789
Case No.
E39259
Model Name
Offshore “The Beast”
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2126/2840, 51 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,300-42,700 €18,100-36,200 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificat d’Origine et de Garantie dated October 31, 2001, two additional straps, additional deployant clasp and presentation box.
In the early 1990s, Audemars Piguet tasked its in-house designer Emmanuel Gueit to reinvent the classic Royal Oak model and infuse it with new life and power. For years, Gueit and his team worked on a prototype and subsequently presented the final product, reference 25721ST, in 1993 at Basel. The result was astonishing and something completely different from what the public had ever seen before. It was shortly nicknamed “The Beast” due to what was, at the time, its astonishing 42mm case size. The launch of reference 25721ST marked the beginning of the Offshore lineage. In fact, it arguably established the trend for large-sized watches, which today is the complete norm. The present “E Series” version features a beautiful dial that has turned brown over the years. This “tropical” effect is completely astonishing, and the brown tone is incredibly saturated and even. There is no telling how a watch will turn in tone over time, and this particular example has aged in a stunning manner. As an added detail, it is accompanied by its Certificate of Origin, additional straps and clasp and presentation box adding another layer of collectibility.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 25721ST Offshore “The Tropical Beast”
43.
A superbly rare and incredibly attractive platinum and pink gold perpetual calendar automatic wristwatch with skeletonized dial, moonphases, and bracelet
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1996
Reference No.
25636RP
Movement No.
391’004
Case No.
D41939 and 14/25
Model Name
Royal Oak Quantieme
Material
Pink gold and platinum
scan for more info
Perpetuel Automatic Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2120/2800, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Pink gold and platinum Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Pink gold and platinum Audemars Piguet
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
deployant clasp
Estimate CHF 60,000-120,000 $64,000-128,000 €54,200-108,000 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch as part of a 25 pieces limited edition and its subsequent sale in 1996
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has since its very beginning continued to convert - at first slowly, and among more than a raised eyebrow, but with increased momentum since the 1990s - more and more enthusiasts to its cause. In the past year and a half, however, the yearly inflow of new adepts has turned into a true tsunami. Following a pattern similar to the one seen with
other sports watches (most notably the Rolex Daytona and the Patek Philippe Nautilus) a few years earlier, the watch collecting community collectively took conscience of both the importance and the scarcity of the iconic Royal Oak, and its variants. Most notably, perpetual calendars Royal Oak timepieces have soared to the top of the collector’s wish-lists, and for good reason. They combine one of the ultimate horological complications with one of the most iconic designs. They are intimately tied with the Royal Oak line, having been realized since the late 1980s (for a comparison, the first perpetual calendar Nautilus appeared on the market in 2018). Their aesthetic appeal is undeniable as is their scarcity. However, within the few pieces made, Audemars Piguet showed remarkable creativity, and produced a number of different variations in terms of case metal and of dial design, as exemplified by the present watch. Undeniably one of the most impressive iterations of the perpetual calendar Royal Oak, the present watch features a skeletonized dial - one of the most sought after and attractive dials, allowing the beholder to admire the intricacy of the underthe-dial gears which drive the perpetual calendar - and a two tone, platinum and pink gold case. The aesthetic sensitivity with which the platinum details are arranged within the pink gold overtone is simply mesmerising, granting the watch enviable harmony and movement. Number 14 of a 25 pieces edition, and offered in extremely appealing condition, this incredibly rare and attractive timepiece is an occasion not to be missed by any high-end collector.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 25636RP Royal Oak Openwork
44.
IWC — The only known, very attractive and highly unusual automatic wristwatch with center seconds, blue date ring and blue dial
Manufacturer
IWC
Year
1971
Reference No.
1811
Movement No.
1’971’853
Case No.
1’931’393
Model Name
Yacht Club
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 8541, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 3,000-5,000 $3,200-5,300 €2,700-4,500 Accessories Accompanied by IWC Certificat confirming production of the present watch and its subsequent sale on July 6, 1971
In 1967, IWC launched the “Yacht Club” model, an obvious effort on part of the company to enter a new market segment. The model was intended for young, dynamic and debonair audience. The name says in fact it all: it is a watch that can be worn in the suave atmosphere of a yacht club while sipping champagne and admiring a Sardinian sunset, but robust and reliable enough to be worn during the preceding regatta. Part of the “Club” family, together with the Polo Club and Golf Club, this model was by far the most successful of the three,
both at the time of its commercialisation, and in current times with collectors. The present timepiece is a unique specimen of this landmark watch: in depth research discloses that it was sold in Hong Kong in July 1971. Unfortunately, IWC archives do not provide detail on watch dials, but accurate examination of both sides of the dial and the fact that even the date ring has been realized in the same particular tonality prompted us to believe in the absolute originality of the timepieces. In order to dispel any possible doubt, the watch - together with its green sibling (successive lot) - was physically sent to IWC. After in depth examination, they concluded that the dial is a 100% original IWC product, and was most probably originally fitted on this timepiece. While the absence of a dial record prevented IWC from mentioning the dial on the Extract, David Seyffer - Heritage director of IWC was kind enough to provide this comment: “The two dials are highly rare; They are a design experiment from IWC’s dial supplier. Only a few dials of the two variants exist. They were available in green and blue. Additionally, there was the corresponding date disc in the same colour. Officially, Yacht Club watches with these dials were never advertised. This makes the two pieces really very special.” We deeply thank the IWC Heritage Department for their support in researching these pieces.
45.
IWC — A possibly unique, very attractive and highly unusual automatic wristwatch with center seconds, green date ring and green dial
Manufacturer
IWC
Year
1970
Reference No.
1811
Movement No.
1’918’624
Case No.
1’929’159
Model Name
Yacht Club
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 8542, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm. Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 3,000-5,000 $3,200-5,300 €2,700-4,500 Accessories Accompanied by IWC Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch and its subsequent sale on September 22, 1970
In 1967, Omega launched the “Yacht Club” model. The classical dress watches and military timepieces for pilots the brand was best known for at the time, the model wanted to offer a casual chic proposition. The name says in fact it all: it is a watch that can be worn in the suave atmosphere of a yacht club while sipping champagne and admiring a Sardinian sunset, but robust and reliable enough to be worn during the preceding regatta. This philosophy was in fact light years ahead of its time, and it has more than one shared trait with the mindset that brought
to life - less than a decade later - the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus.
The present timepiece is a unique specimen of this landmark watch: in depth research discloses that it was sold in Hong Kong in September 1970. Unfortunately, IWC archives do not provide detail on watch dials, but accurate examination of both sides of the dial and the fact that even the date ring has been realized in the same particular tonality prompted us to believe in the absolute originality of the timepieces. In order to dispel any possible doubt, the watch - together with its blue sibling (preceding lot) - was physically sent to IWC. After in depth examination, they concluded that the dial is a 100% original IWC product, and was most probably originally fitted on this timepiece. While the absence of a dial record prevented IWC from mentioning the dial on the Extract, David Seyffer - Heritage director of IWC - was kind enough to provide this comment: “The two dials are highly rare; They are a design experiment from IWC’s dial supplier. Only a few dials of the two variants exist. They were available in green and blue. Additionally, there was the corresponding date disc in the same colour. Officially, Yacht Club watches with these dials were never advertised. This makes the two pieces really very special.” We deeply thank the IWC Heritage Department for their support in researching these pieces.
46.
HEUER — A very rare and attractive stainless steel fly-back chronograph wristwatch issued to the Federal Defence Force of Germany
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
Circa 1972
Reference No.
1550SG
Case No.
6645-12-146-3774
Model Name
Heuer Bund Flyback “3H”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 230, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather Bund style strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
43mm Diameter
Signed
Case and dial signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 5,000-8,000 $5,300-8,500 €4,500-7,200 Accessories Accompanied by Luftwaffe handbook from 1972 describing how to operate the timepiece, booklet and commission ticket
Heuer has had a long history of delivering military watches to the air forces of numerous nations. Reference 1550 SG is known to have been made for the German Bundeswehr in the 1970s. Since its conception in 1955 until the late 1990s, the Bundeswehr was known as one of the most organised and prepared army of its time.
This watch was created to be an army pilot’s true companion. The design, dial and case allow for practical visibility, comfort and reliability even throughout the most strenuous of missions. Whilst other watch manufactures opted for an encircled letter “T” for tritium on their dials, Heuer acknowledged the presence of radioactive material through the use of an encircled “3H” at 6 o’clock - this is because hydrogen-3 is the chemical compound for radioactive luminous material. This Heuer 1550 SG, in great overall condition, presents all the characteristics of a military watch with its black dial, large luminous Arabic numerals and lume on the hands which have all aged gracefully. This watch possesses both the flyback chronograph as well as a hacking function.
47.
HEUER — A fine and very well preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with date and box
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
1133B
Case No.
161’022
Model Name
Monaco
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 11, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Heuer pin buckle
Dimensions
45.5mm Length, 44mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-20,000 $12,800-21,300 €10,800-18,100 Accessories Accompanied by Heuer fitted box
With its avant-garde case, the Heuer Monaco has always been associated with the Golden Age of chronograph watches of the 1960s and 70s. Designed by Jack Heuer and released in 1969, it was named after the famed Formula One racetrack, and worn by Steve McQueen in the 1971 classic film Le Mans. Steve McQueen then gifted his watch to his personal mechanic before it made its way to the auction market in 2020 where it was sold for a record breaking $2.2 Million during the Phillips Racing Pulse auction in New York , making it the most expensive Heuer ever to be sold.
The present example of Heuer’s legendary chronograph is preserved in mint condition, still retaining the original Heuer sticker on the caseback. It also comes with its original presentation box, typical pierced leather bracelet and period steel Heuer buckle. Since the re-launch of the Monaco on the occasion of its 40th anniversary, the original Monaco has gained again huge popularity. However, no re-edition can ever meet the original. This superb example ticks all the boxes for passionate collectors, with its seductive design, wearability, rarity, and near-perfect condition.
48.
IWC — A rare and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch
Manufacturer
IWC
Year
Circa 1972
Reference No.
1816
Movement No.
2’093’669
Case No.
1’953’717
Model Name
Aquatimer
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 8541B, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel IWC pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 3,000-5,000 $3,200-5,300 €2,700-4,500
Released in 1967 in a far more limited numbers than other sport watches, reference 1816 is a historically interesting timepiece representing IWC ‘s entry in the submersible world.
The Aquatimer has a modern, sleek appeal with a ‘super compressor’ case that has less bulk compared with other dive watches of the era. A timing ring placed underneath the crystal replaces the outer rotating bezel. This works as a safety mechanism, keeping the bezel from being bumped and accidentally changing the time, as well as giving the watch a flatter profile. Furthermore, the in-house caliber 8541B movement features the innovative “Pellaton” winding system, patented by IWC in 1950. This horological innovation uses a bi-directional rotor improved efficiency, giving greater winding power. Reference 1816 features a cushion-shaped case with luminous hands and hour markers rendering the dial easy-toread and extremely recognisable from vintage diver’s watch collector. Offered overall in great condition, the presented lot is an interesting and early diver’s watch from IWC and definitely a must-have for collectors new and experienced, alike.
49.
BREITLING — A very attractive, rare and large stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black dial, oversized 15-minutes register and bracelet
Manufacturer
Breitling
Year
1964
Reference No.
765 AVI
Case No.
989’717
Model Name
AVI
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
scan for more info
Manual, cal. 178, 17 jewels, stamped “WOG”
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel mesh bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,800 €7,200-10,800 Accessories Accompanied by Breitling Extract from the Archives confirming manufacture in May 1964.
In 1953, the Breitling Watch Company launched the first reference 765 AVI (AVI representing Aviation): a large pilot chronograph with a 12H rotating steel bezel. The first model displayed a digital 15 minutes counter at 3 o’clock and was referred to as the 765 Digital. This counter design was later replaced by a larger 15 minutes register with oversized luminous markers placed at 3 minute increments.
As always, a watch benefits from celebrity association, and the 765 AVI boasts not just one, but two strong celebrity endorsements: Jean-Claude Killy, the famous Swiss alpine ski racer, and Raquel Welch, the prominent mid-century actress and sex symbol who wore a 765 AVI in the James Bond spoof movie, Fathom (1967). Though it was another manufacturer that endorsed Killy and led to his name being attached to a specific reference, it is the Breitling 765 that was photographed on Killy’s wrist after he won all three gold medals in alpine skiing at the 1968 Winter Olympics in Grenoble, France. The present 765 AVI in overall very appealing condition shares the same movement as the more well-known Navitimer, the Venus 178. The steel mesh bracelet (not Breitling) adds a supplementary charisma to an already very attractive watch.
50.
ROLEX — A fine and attractive stainless steel and yellow gold automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date, lapis lazuli and diamond-set dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1984
Reference No.
16013
Movement No.
1’214’485
Case No.
8’577’565
Model Name
Datejust
Material
Stainless steel and 18K gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel and 18K gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet stamped “455” to the endlinks, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
“I11” and 62523H.18”
Estimate CHF 5,000-8,000 • $5,300-8,500 €4,500-7,200
The present 1980s Datejust represents a whimsical take on possibly the most classic of Rolex watches. The two-tone case already interprets perfectly the style of the time, and the addition of the lapis lazuli dial with two playful and understated diamonds set inside the numerals at 6 and 9 adds further flair to this very attractive creation. While very attractive, stone dials tend to crack over time if not properly cared for. In this case, however, the dial is flawlessly preserved. Coupled with the remarkably well-preserved case, it makes this watch an irresistible opportunity for the collector of striking, unusual and rare timepieces. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
51.
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive stainless steel and yellow gold dual time wristwatch, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1980
Reference No.
16753
Movement No.
0’759’534
Case No.
6’719’819
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
18K yellow gold and stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3075, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold and stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-20,000 $10,700-21,300 €9,000-18,100
Some of the rarest, most historically important and valuable Rolex wristwatches have been sold through the American retailer Tiffany & Co. Few retailers have had a relationship with Rolex like Tiffany & Co. has. The jeweler has proudly emblazoned its logo on a variety of Rolex wristwatches, ranging from the GMT-Master to the Cosmograph Daytona. This watch, reference 16753, is a rare variant within the GMT family as it is cased in both stainless steel and yellow gold. It has a beautiful brown dial displaying Tiffany & Co, as well as a caramel and chocolate bezel. Collectors dub this model the ‘Root Beer’. The present watch features no ‘flaking’ to the luminous dots, which is extremely rare, as this particular dial is known easily crack over time. The bezel remains vibrant, displaying a sharp gold and light brown colour, giving the watch a very charismatic look. Moreover, there are traces of a number scratched beneath the lug, consistent with other Tiffany & Co. signed pieces from the era.
52.
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive yellow gold dual time wristwatch with green dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2007
Reference No.
116718
Movement No.
18’565
Case No.
Z872’969
Model Name
GMT-Master II
Material
18K yellow gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3186, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped “78208”, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated 10th November 2007 stamped Deutsch & Deutsch, instructions manual, product literature, numbered sale tag, hang tag, outside packaging and fitted presentation box.
The Rolex GMT-Master has been a staple in the brand’s catalogue since the 1950s and the introduction of the reference 6542, a model initially made for airline pilots to enable them to simultaneously keep track of two time zones.
In 2005, on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the GMTMaster, Rolex launched the spectacular reference 116718LN, in a yellow gold livery and featuring a new a ceramic bezel insert called Cerachrom and an incredibly enticing green dial referred to as the “Maxi dial”, in reference to the large lume plots. Furthermore, the watch housed the new cal. 3186 with Parachrom hairspring, which provides greater resistance to shocks and temperature variations. A very elegant combination of yellow gold, deep green dial and black ceramic bezel, the present watch was elusive and difficult to find. Since its discontinuation in early 2020 becoming even more coveted and collectible.
53.
ROLEX — A rare and very attractive white gold automatic diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, blue ceramic revolving bezel, bracelet, Guarantee, invoice and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2014
Reference No.
116619
Case No.
07’AH9’906
Model Name
Submariner
Material
18K white gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee card stamped by American retailer Gearys of Beverly Hills and dated May 5th, 2014, sales receipt, card holder, product literature, hand tag, fitted presentation box and outer packaging
Throughout most of the 20th century, Rolex rarely used white gold for its cases and bracelets making this reference 116619 something of an anomaly in the Rolex line up. Horological scholarship has documented a few “one-off” pieces in white gold in Rolex’s vintage sports offerings, but by and large, white gold sports watches were not generally manufactured by the brand until the 21st century.
White metals in general, have become increasingly popular in recent years, as notable collectors have devoted their passion to obtaining obscure and rare timepieces in platinum, stainless steel, and white gold. In 2008, Rolex released their first serially produced white gold Submariner, the reference 116619LB, as a luxurious yet robust offering for those preferring a more discreet, precious metal Submariner. “LB” represents “lunette bleu” referring to the blue color of the bezel. It retains all of the details that make Rolex tool watches so highly desirable – efficient, waterproof and rugged, yet beautiful. The features present in this particular timepiece include a scratch-resistant ceramic bezel in a vibrant aquatic blue with the numerals and markers coated in platinum. The vivid blue dial matches the bezel, and features hour markers and hands with white gold surrounds and Rolex’s luminescent Chromalight filling. Due to its proprietary white gold composition, alloyed in-house at Rolex’s foundries, the case and bracelet do not need to be re-plated with rhodium over time as is the case with typical 18K white gold jewelry and watches, but instead endures a warm silver lustre even with heavy use. Offered with its presentation box and hangtags, the present Submariner, nicknamed “The Smurf” by collectors, is a great opportunity for any watch enthusiast.
54.
A highly rare and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with additional champagne dial, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1988
Reference No.
6265
Movement No.
18’565
Case No.
R328819
scan for more info
Model Name
Cosmograph
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 71, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed Estimate CHF 70,000-140,000 $74,700-149,000 €63,300-127,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched guarantee dated 1987, additional champagne dial, product literature, wallet and presentation box.
Reference 6265 was introduced to the market approximately in 1970, and ceased production in 1987. While the reference was mainly cased in stainless steel, limited amounts were also cased in 18k or 14k yellow gold. Reference 6265 was in production for almost 20 years, yet no more than 2000 examples were cased in gold. From the early 1980s and onwards, gold examples featured a movement number engraved on the plate, behind the balance wheel. Research suggests that this was related to the officially certified chronometer movement. Around this period, Rolex modified the dial layout for gold versions, and the ‘OCC’ designation was printed on the dial. The present watch is preserved in most probably unpolished condition with crisp edges and still retains its original sticker on the caseback. It is further accompanied by its Rolex guarantee dated 1987, additional dial, product literature, wallet and presentation box.
RO L E X Ref. 6265 Oyster Cosmograph “Full Set”
55.
A very rare, fine, and highly attractive 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with underline dial, tachymeter scale and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1963
Reference No.
6238
scan for more info
Movement No. Case No.
997’148
Model Name
Chronograph “Pre-Daytona”
Material
14K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72B, 17 jewels, bridge further
Bracelet/Strap
14K yellow gold Rolex and J.B. Champion Jubilee
stamped ROW bracelet, max length 215mm Clasp/Buckle
14K yellow gold Rolex and J.B. Champion
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed
deployant clasp
Estimate CHF 40,000-60,000 ∆ $42,700-64,000 €36,200-54,200
Though the Rolex Daytona often steals the spotlight, the world of the Rolex “Pre-Daytona” is fascinatingly diverse and offers ample opportunity for a collector to get lost in all the beautiful subtle details. The reference 6238 immediately precedes the first official Daytona, the reference 6239, and differs in several ways. Most obvious, however, is the 6238’s polished bezel was replaced by a metal or acrylic tachymeter bezel on the Daytona. The reference 6238s, whichever their configuration, have the chronograph scale printed on the dial.
This particular reference 6238 dates to the same year its successor was introduced: 1963. Already a rare reference, with few examples in yellow gold having been produced, its rarity is amplified due to its 14K yellow gold case and bracelet and underline dial. 14K yellow gold was believed to be used in watches meant for the North American market, and this is further underscored by the ROW stamp on the movement, indicating import to the United States. The Swiss stamped their 14K yellow gold cases with a small squirrel hallmark, which can be seen on the reverse of the lugs. Moreover, the dial itself bears a small underline beneath the “Chronograph” designation, a detail believed to indicate the transitional luminous material, and one found on a very few number of watches during this era. This particular watch is one of a small batch of 14K yellow gold reference 6238s known. A very small number have surfaced publicly in the past few decades, all bearing the serial number 997’1XX. Two have previously been sold at Phillips, one signed by American retailer Tiffany & Co. bearing the serial number 997’154, and the other with the serial number 997’150. All three have dagger-shaped indexes, a blue tachymeter scale, and silver soleil dial. The vibrant, original dial has warmed to a pale champagne hue which matches beautifully with the hue of the case and bracelet, allowing the blue tachymeter scale to pop. It is an exceedingly rare opportunity for the Rolex chronograph aficionado.
RO L E X Ref. 6238 “Underline Pre-Daytona”
56.
CARTIER — A highly rare and attractive yellow gold dual time curved wristwatch
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1990
Reference No.
283-90
Case No.
A108091
Model Name
Tank Cintrée
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. ETA 2412, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Unmarked gold buckle
Dimensions
23mm Width and 46mm Length
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 5,000-8,000 $5,300-8,500 €4,500-7,200
The name Cartier is synonymous with elegance, flamboyance and Parisian glamour. The present Tank Cintrée from 1990 is a marvel of finesse and design ingenuity. To create a dual time watch, Cartier decided to house two mechanical movements into one case and a dial split in two sections for the time indication, giving the watch a particularly vibrant look. The seductive Tank Cintrée case with its long case sides, curved back and two faceted crowns with sapphire cabochons lends itself particularly well to this complication. In overall excellent condition, the present unusual and inventive timepiece will lure in the savvy collector.
57.
CARTIER — A highly rare and attractive yellow gold single button chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 2003
Reference No.
2356E
Case No.
0038 CE
Model Name
Tortue Monopoussoir CPCP
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 045 MC, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Cartier deployant buckle
Dimensions
34mm Width and 43mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 ∑ $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600
Cartier’s first Tortue-shaped watch was released in 1912, and updated in the 1990s with the Cartier Privée Paris Collection. Offered as time-only, tourbillon, and monopusher chronograph models, it was the chronograph that was a standout. In the 1930s, Cartier worked with Edmond Jaeger and LeCoultre using European Watch and Clock Company-branded movements that could fit these rare and unusual pieces. The first Cartier monopusher was released in 1928, and operated through a single button in the crown, with the start-stop-reset completed all through the one button. This allowed a cleaner and more elegant case line, compared to two button chronograph watches that had a more casual, sportive look.
When the brand released the Cartier Privée Paris Collection (CPCP) in 1998, it gave the them an opportunity to update and modernise some of their most cherished, and iconic wristwatches. It was with great pride and fanfare that they reintroduced the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir. Named “tortue à pattes” or “turtle on legs” it was a symbol of good fortune and longevity. The new watch was larger and contemporary, featuring the all-new chronograph caliber 045MC. This new movement is historic itself as it was co-developed by Vianney Halter, Denis Flageollet, and Francois-Paul Journe through their firm at the time, Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA). Well-preserved in excellent condition with a nicely aged dial, this watch is a wonderful example for the demanding collector.
58.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — A very attractive and rare oval-rectangular octagonal-shaped white gold quartz wristwatch with date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1974
Reference No.
6001BC
Movement No.
153’548
Case No.
100’613
Material
18k white gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Quartz, cal. 2510, 13 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18k white gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18k white gold AP deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Length and 35mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,800 €7,200-10,800 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extrait de Registre confirming production of the watch on November 28, 1974 and an archival photo.
The Audemars Piguet 6001 was an astonishingly avant-garde timepiece in 1974 when it was launched. Its bold design housed an incredibly cutting-edge quartz movement. In fact this reference was Audemars Piguet’s first watch featuring a quartz movement and was available in steel, yellow gold and very few pieces in white gold like the present example.
While brands such as Rolex or Patek Philippe had participated in the developing of the Beta 21 quartz movement, Omega had developed the ultra precise Megaquartz caliber 1510 - precise to one second a month. Omega supplied this movement to Audemars Piguet, who labelled it as cal. 2510, which can be found in the present reference 6001. The small pusher under the crown enables the wearer to correct the one second discrepancy. Design-wise, the reference 6001 is almost a rectangular Royal Oak, keeping with the 8 edges to the bezel . It even features the AP at 6 o’clock like the beloved reference 5402 A Series. It is entirely possible that this reference was the brainchild of Gerald Genta given the aesthetic similarities with the Royal Oak. The present example is part of an incredibly rare series made in white gold with diamond hour markers adding a dash of flamboyance to an already incredibly good looking timepiece.
59.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A highly rare and attractive white gold cushion-shaped wristwatch with white dial and black Roman numerals
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1979
Reference No.
3604
Movement No.
1’309’150
Case No.
2’747’539
Model Name
Ellipse
Material
18K white gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 28-255, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Original Patek Philippe leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold AW buckle
Dimensions
36mm Length and 36mm Width
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 7,000-14,000 $7,500-14,900 €6,300-12,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1979 with opaline silvered dial and black painted Roman numerals and its subsequent sale on January 29, 1981.
Launched in 1968, Patek Philippe’s original Golden Ellipse design was influenced by the so-called “golden section” discovered by ancient Greek mathematicians and whose “divine” proportions inspired numerous artistic and architectural masterpieces throughout the centuries. By the late 70s, the Golden Ellipse collection encompassed more than 60 different references, from large masculine watches to high-jewelry ladies’ pieces. The Ellipse is now the second oldest model in Patek Philippe’s collection still in production after the Calatrava. The present timepiece, reference 3604, displays an attractive white dial and Roman numerals, which is confirmed by the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives. Preserved in excellent condition, the watch displays a crisp hallmark and even retains its original vintage Patek Philippe strap.
60.
A very rare and massive white gold electromechanical wristwatch with center seconds, date, integrated bracelet and service invoice
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1974
Reference No.
3597/2
Movement No.
8’277
Case No.
2’741’770
Model Name
Beta 21
Material
18K white gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Electromechanical, Cal. Beta 21, 13 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Integrated 18K white gold Patek Philippe bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe folding clasp
Dimensions
43mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Japan service invoice dated July 30, 2020 and related material. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1974 and its subsequent sale on November 11, 1974.
In the formative years of quartz technology, Patek Philippe along other brands including Rolex, Omega and Piaget, began to research quartz movements when they joined together to form the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH) in 1962.
The CEH first released the Beta-1 movement in 1966, with the ground breaking Beta-21 movement following in 1969, which delivered unprecedented accuracy of just five seconds deviation per month. 6000 Beta-21 movements were produced in total. Patek Philippe’s reference 3597 was introduced in 1973, the heir of the first Beta 21 model, ref. 3587. The present /2 version impresses the beholder with a remarkable 43mm width, a superbly opulent bracelet, and a geometric “TV-screen” design which can be considered the synthesis of 1970s luxury and glam. In fact, the important cost of the Beta21 movement prompted the manufacturer to create timepieces as luxurious as possible in order to justify the price tag (a trend that is apparent through most if not all the brands that produced Beta 21 watches). Furthermore, Patek Philippe added some of its suave elegance even to the inner workings of the watch: the frequency of the oscillator being reduced (through proprietary technology) to 256 hz, thus allowing more refined and silky motion of the seconds hand throughout the dial. In general, ref. 3597 appears to be an extremely rare bird, with about 20 examples known in total. However, it was available in 3 gold colors, and three different configurations are known: a leather strap version (3597), a milanese-style bracelet version (/1), and the present “drilled” bracelet (/2) (a third braceletstyle (/3) apparently exists but is not known from the market). The /2 white gold is in fact one of the scarcest variations of the model: this previously unknown example is only the third to ever resurface on the public market.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3597/2 “The White Beta 21”
61.
A rare and attractive pink gold pilot’s dual time mid-sized travel time wristwatch with date, day and night indicator, certificate of origin, setting pin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2019
Reference No.
7234R
Movement No.
7’222’766
Case No.
6’293’195
Model Name
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
Material
18K pink gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 S C FUS, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated June 28, 2019, setting pin, hang tag, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
Reference 7234 is an interpretation of the iconic Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in a more restrained size. Launched in 2018, the model is cased in pink gold, and displays a beautiful brown dial. Like its larger sibling reference 5524, the dial displays local and home time, along with a day and night indicator. Compared to reference 5524, reference 7234 is slightly more compact and is fit for a slimmer wrist with a diameter of 37.5 mm. Offered in excellent and unpolished condition, it is complete with its Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated June 28, 2019, setting pin, hang tag, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 7234R Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
62.
A very rare and fine pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, leap year, night/day indication, Certificate of Origin, additional hard back, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2016
Reference No.
5270R
Movement No.
5’942’880
Case No.
6’088’222
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH29-535 PS Q,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
33 jewels Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 70,000-100,000 ∆ $74,700-107,000 €63,300-90,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated 2016, wooden presentation box, additional solid caseback, setting pin, hang tag, leather envelope with product literature, and outer packaging.
Perpetual calendar chronographs and Patek Philippe are undissociable since 1941 when the Geneva brand introduced the reference 1518, the world’s first serially-produced perpetual calendar chronograph followed by what is considered one of the greatest watches of the 20th century, the reference 2499. The tradition of this complication continues with Patek Philippe, the layout of the chronograph and calendar functions have more or less remained the same since 1941 with day and
month indications read via an aperture at 12 o’clock, date and moonphase at 6 o’clock and the constant seconds and minutes counter at respectively 9 and 3 o’clock. The reference 5270 perpetual calendar chronograph was introduced in 2011 (the pink gold version was introduced in 2015) and it featured for the first time an inhouse Patek Philippe chronograph movement (for the 3970 and 5970 Patek Philippe used a heavily modified Lemania base). It also added a day/ night and leap year indicator on either side of the moonphase/ date indication. The reference 5720 has gone through different evolutions since its launch: First series: Hands and hour markers are blackened white gold, offering the highest degree of legibility amongst all three series. The dial features railway minute divisions combined with Arabic five minute divisions, and was produced from 2011-2013. Second series: In production from 2013 to 2015, a tachymeter scale that follows the contour of the subsidiary seconds counter is now added. Third series: The tachymeter scale now stops where it intersects the timekeeping seconds subsidiary dial. This rare pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph is only the fourth known example to appear at auction. Preserved in likenew, unworn condition, it is complete with its original certificate and presentation box.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5270R
63.
A fine and attractive white gold world time chronograph wristwatch with Certificate of Origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2018
Reference No.
5930G
scan for more info
Movement No.
7’130’668
Case No.
6’226’647
Model Name
World Time Chronograph
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. CH 28-20 HU, 38 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
stamped with the Patek Philippe seal Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 O $32,000-53,400 €27,100-45,200 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated March 24, 2018, wooden presentation box, additional alligator strap, leather envelope with product literature and outer packaging.
Following the long esteemed lineage of world time watches, Patek Philippe redoubled its efforts in 2016 and introduced its first serially produced world time wristwatch incorporating a chronograph complication: the reference 5930. Not only admired for its movement, the present watch also mesmerises the beholder by its elegant design. A fifth of a second divisions scale has been added between the mobile city and 24-hour rings, and the 30 minutes counter is placed at 6 o’ clock. The lustrous white gold case, the subtle blasted sliver minute ring combined with the delicate hand-guilloché Prussian blue dial, evokes the spiral pattern of a pine cone, creating the most captivating scenery to look at. Uniting the modern craftsmanship of Patek Philippe and its history, reference 5930 is a highly fascinating timepiece which will most probably be regarded as a landmark world time model for years to come.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5930G World Time Chronograph
64.
An incredibly rare and attractive platinum wristwatch with date, bracelet, Certificate of Origin and Box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2015
Reference No.
5711P
Movement No.
5’814’815
Case No.
4’690’983
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Platinum
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum Patek Philippe Nautilus bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 200,000-400,000 $213,000-427,000 €181,000-362,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated November 2, 2015, leather folio, product literature, fitted box, outer packaging and 3 extra links.
Reference 5711 in steel was launched in 2006 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus. It paid tribute to its forefather, the original reference 3700, keeping the original “jumbo” 42mm case but with the addition of a central seconds hand. The 5711 immediately hit a sweet spot with collectors around the world with waiting lists going up to close to a decade until it was discontinued in early 2021.
In 2013 Patek Philippe presented a very elusive and mysterious reference 5711 in platinum. A model that was never listed in the brand’s catalogue, never available for viewing and reserved for a select clientele. It is believed that a mere 50 examples were made. At first glance the platinum 5711 may look like its stainless steel sibling, but subtle details set it apart, showing just how exclusive and important the watch really is. Whereas the dial of the steel watch is blue/ grey, the dial of the platinum model is vivid blue contrasting beautifully with the platinum case. Other subtle details demonstrate that Patek Philippe considers this watch to be truly apart and has extra touches that add up to make all the difference, such as the logo printing on the dial. Whereas on the steel version the logo is directly printed on the fluting of the dial, with the platinum version a flat recessed area has been created for the logo print. The bevels on the case and bracelet are more prominent than on the steel version and like with all platinum Patek Philippe models a small diamond on the case at 6 o’clock indicated the use of this precious metal. Obviously however the most important element is the platinum case and bracelet that have an incredible sheen that no other metal has, the sheer heft of the watch will also remind the wearer what an incredible piece is on his or her wrist. So rare is the platinum reference 5711 that only about 6 have graced the auction market. The present example, fresh to the auction market, is preserved in excellent condition and is delivered full set with box and paperwork.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5711P Nautilus
65.
GÉRALD GENTA — A highly rare and attractive “new old stock” titanium chronograph wristwatch with carbon fiber dial and hang tag
Manufacturer
Gérald Genta
Year
Circa 1994
Case No.
092
Model Name
GGM 3 Gefica Safari
Material
Titanium and carbon
Calibre
Quartz, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Titanium Gérald Genta pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 1,500-2,500 • $1,600-2,700 €1,400-2,300 Accessories Accompanied by original hang tag from The Hour Glass.
Gérald Genta is one of the most influential figures in horological history. Having left an indelible mark in watchmaking, he is best known for creating iconic models such as the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and IWC Ingenieur. His designs are flagship models of each manufacture and some even argue that his creations have themselves become a brand in itself. Part of the Gefica Safari line and made during the height of Genta’s most creative period, the present watch is cased in titanium and displays a carbon fibre dial. The chronograph wristwatch is enlivened with punches of yellow and blue, giving it a very eye catching appearance. Preserved in new old stock condition, it even retains its original sales tag from 1994 showing that the watch retailed at The Hour Glass, providing a cool element of history. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
66.
PANERAI — A rare and impressive bronze automatic diver’s wristwatch with date, crown protection device, titanium back, Guarantee and box, number 44 of a 1000 pieces limited edition
Manufacturer
Panerai
Year
Circa 2019
Reference No.
PAM968
Movement No.
043’649
Case No.
OP7112, BB1940655,
Model Name
Submersible “Bronzo”
Material
Bronze and Titanium
scan for more info
lim. ed. no.: V0044/1000
Calibre
Manual, cal. P9010, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Panerai leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Panerai titanium pin buckle
Dimensions
47mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,800 €7,200-10,800 Accessories Accompanied by Panerai warranty card dated February 20, 2019 and stamped by Panerai Boutique Paris, instructions booklet, additional khaki rubber strap, bracelet removal tool, numbered stickers, numbered tag, fitted presentation box, outer packing, further outer packaging
Panerai has long been a brand associated with professional diving since the mid-20th century. The Panerai Submersible model is one of the most celebrated timepieces manufactured by the firm due to its robustness and professional depth rating of up to 300 meters. With limited editions encased in a Bronze case, the feature is delightful yet unique as it develops over time a layer of oxidation patina, amplifying its charm and uniqueness. In 2011, Panerai introduced the PAM00968 Luminor Submersible encased in a 47mm diameter bronze case, exemplified by the present example part of a limited edition of 1,000 pieces. Its apt nickname “Bronzo” comes from the Italian word for bronze, and from a technical standpoint the watch features an in-house cal. 9010 with up to 3 days of power reserve via two barrels. The present example is numbered V0044/1000 and it is offered by its original owner in absolutely “as new” condition - never having seen any wrist time at all - and accompanied by the full set of accessories. It is a fantastic chance for lovers of diver’s watches to acquire an attractive and robust professional tool watch, and to witness the fascinating metamorphosis of the case from a “mint” starting point.
67.
An extremely rare and fine stainless steel automatic wristwatch with power reserve indication, date, moonphases, bracelet, Certificate and box, retailed by Tiffany & Co., factory sealed
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2016
Reference No.
5712
Movement No.
5’996’991
Case No.
6’142’910
scan for more info
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240 PS IRM C LU, 29 jewels, stamped
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet
with the Patek Philippe seal Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
43mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed by maker, dial further signed by retailer
Estimate CHF 70,000-140,000 $74,700-149,000 €63,300-127,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped by Tiffany & Co. and dated October 19, 2016, numbered hangtag, setting pin, printout of the Tiffany electronic journal detailing the purchase, Patek Philippe 2016 catalogue, product literature, leather document holder, fitted presentation box, Tiffany outer packaging and Tiffany paper bag.
Preserved in absolutely as-new condition and still sealed in its plastic sleeve, this reference 5712 retailed by Tiffany & Co. is furthermore accompanied by its Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin setting pin, product literature, leather wallet, and Patek Philippe box. On top of this, it comes also with the outer Tiffany & Co. packaging, and with the Patek Philippe number factory paperbox, a rare find as it usually is not consigned to the client when delivering the watch. Displaying a date, power reserve and moon phases complication, reference 5712 was the successor of reference 3712. It is immediately recognizable from its predecessor due to the lack of hour marker at 7 o’clock. Made to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the famous Nautilus collection in 2006, the model was a commercial success. Its good looks, combined with a hefty presence makes it one of the most desirable modern sports watches available on the market today. In fact, it is incredibly difficult to obtain one at a Patek Philippe retailer, requiring years of waiting to be allocated one. That is even more true - in fact at a superior level of magnitude - when it comes to the extremely sought-after and collectible Tiffany signed examples. The present reference 5712 with Tiffany & Co. signature is only the 3rd example in steel to appear on the market, underlining the extreme rarity of the watch.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5712 Nautilus “Sealed Tiffany & Co.”
68.
A very rare and stunning pink gold wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet, Certificate of Origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2017
Reference No.
5711/1R
Movement No.
7’092’228
Case No.
6’217’067
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
18k pink gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 S C, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18k pink gold Patek Philippe Nautilus bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $42,700-85,400 €36,200-72,300 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated 12 October 2017, product literature, instruction manual, leather wallet fitted box and outer packaging.
Rarely has a timepiece been something and its opposite yet the present pink gold Nautilus reference 5711 manages to be both boorishly flamboyant and classically restrained and it is intriguing how Patek Philippe has succeeded in achieving a balance between opulence, technicality and elegance. The Patek Philippe Nautilus doesn’t need an introduction, the Genta designed icon has become one of the world’s most coveted and recognizable timepieces with its porthole inspired case and integrated bracelet. Launched in 2006 in celebration of the Nautilus’s 30th anniversary reference 5711 paid tribute to its forefather, the original reference 3700, keeping the original “jumbo” 42 mm. case but with the addition of a central seconds hand. The pink gold version was presented in 2015, it was the first time the 5711 was offered in this precious metal and demand rocketed. The desirability of the rose gold reference 5711 is fully understandable considering the superbly timeless and powerful design of the Nautilus merged with the flamboyance of a warm pink gold case beautifully framing a degrade chocolate brown dial. The watch impresses not only by its sheer heft but its superlative almost unworn condition and full set of accessories.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5711/1R Nautilus
69.
A highly rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1982
Reference No.
3700/11
Movement No.
1’310’255
Case No.
559’031
scan for more info
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 28-255C, 36 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe bracelet,
stamped with the Geneva Seal max length 210mm Clasp/Buckle
18K gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-150,000 $107,000-160,000 €90,400-136,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming manufacture of the present watch in 1982 and its subsequent sale on August 30th 1982.
The result of a collaboration between Patek Philippe and legendary designer Gerald Genta, the Nautilus was inspired by maritime portholes and named after Captain Nemo’s submarine, the Nautilus, in Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. The reference 3700 embodies every aspect of Patek Philippe’s avant-garde design philosophy of the 1970s, from the bold yet elegant curves, to the contrasting finish of the case, and even the delicate grooves of the dial. Extremely rare and one of haute horology’s most iconic and coveted timepieces, the present watch is preserved in exceptional condition, with crisp edges and bevels throughout. The Gay Frères flat Nautilus clasp is correct, and the watch remains rigid and tight throughout. All hallmarks are crisp and visible beneath the lugs.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3700/11 Nautilus
70.
An incredibly rare and attractive 15 pieces limited edition pink gold split seconds chronograph wristwatch with pink dial, certificate of origin, additional solid case back and presentation box
Even though the split seconds chronograph can be mistaken for a chronograph with “just” an extra hand, the dexterity and know-how required to build this complication put it on the top of the list of the most difficult complications to master along with chiming watches. Patek Philippe has a long history in the mastering of this complication. The brand presented its first split-seconds chronograph in 1923, with a Victorin Piguet-based ebauche housed in an 18K yellow gold officer-style case. Subsequent split seconds chronographs produced in series had two buttons: the reference 1436 (about 165 total examples produced between 1938 and 1971), the reference 1563, and the unique piece reference 2512. Patek Philippe wouldn’t produce another split-seconds chronograph until the reference 5959 was introduced in 2005, fitted with an all-new, in-house ultra-thin movement, the calibre CHR 27-525 PS, and housed within a 33 mm platinum case. The caliber was an extraordinary achievement in fine watchmaking history as it was the thinnest split seconds chronograph ever created at the time. Executed as a singlebutton split seconds chronograph, its design brilliantly demonstrated the prowess and know-how of Patek Philippe in the field of complications.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5950R “Pink on Pink”
70.
An incredibly rare and attractive 15 pieces limited edition pink gold split seconds chronograph wristwatch with pink dial, certificate of origin, additional solid case back and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2016
Reference No.
5950R
Movement No.
5’252’067
Case No.
6’143’991
Material
18k pink gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Manual, cal. CHR 27-525 PS, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Width and 37mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 200,000-400,000 ∑ $213,000-427,000 €181,000-362,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, Attestation of Limited edition, leather album, second solid caseback, hang tag, product literature, fitted box, outer packaging.
This exquisitely finished caliber incorporates a number of technical features (such as optimized teeth geometry and an improved clutching/unclutching system) that enable its remarkable thinness, and at the same time increase the energy efficiency and reliability of the chronograph complication.
Furthermore, this was Patek Philippe’s first fully in-house designed and manufactured chronograph movement. At Baselworld in 2010, Patek Philippe announced the reference 5950, a cushion-form, single button split-seconds chronograph with the same in-house movement but boasting subtle Belle Epoque styling. Originally launched in stainless steel, Patek Philippe launched in 2016 an ultra exclusive pink gold version with pink dial limited to just 15 examples and reserved for the brand’s most valued collectors. So rare is this piece that it is not only the very first time that this combination arrives on the international auction market, but the very first time it is seen by many. The present 5950R impresses with its raised, applied black gold Breguet numerals, black lacquer scroll detailing at the corners and on the buckle (as well as on the back of the extra solid caseback). The direct inspiration for the reference 5950 can be found in the archives of the Patek Philippe Museum, with a similar singlebutton split-seconds chronograph cased in 18K yellow gold and bearing similar scroll details on the dial. In excellent condition the watch is offered with all of its original accessories.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5950R “Pink on Pink”
71.
A rare, early and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with date, bracelet, original certificate, hand tag and setting pin
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2006
Reference No.
5980/1A
Movement No.
3’665’737
Case No.
4’383’364
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. CH 28-520 C, 35 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
43.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 $26,700-48,000 €22,600-40,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated November 28, 2006, leather wallet, product literature, hangtag and setting pin.
With the release of the reference 3700 in 1976, Patek Philippe created one of the best stainless steel luxury wristwatches available on the market and in the ensuing 40 years, it became an icon. At the time of launch, Patek Philippe completely revolutionized the concept of a “sports watch” with its water resistant Nautilus case designed by famed Gerald Genta. The watch was rugged, masculine and sporty in nature and could be worn in both casual settings as well as formal affairs. Presented in 2006, reference 5980/1 was launched alongside its time-only sibling reference 5711. At the time of launch, it was a completely novel design as the Nautilus model had never incorporated a chronograph function before. This particular example is preserved in excellent condition with crisp finishes, and is accompanied by its original certificate dated 2006 - the very year that the model was introduced.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5980/1A Nautilus
72.
A very rare and attractive white gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, additional caseback and setting pin
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1994
Reference No.
5020G
Movement No.
3’045’058
Case No.
2’956’027
Model Name
“TV Screen”
Material
18k white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
18k white gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 150,000-250,000 ∑ $160,000-267,000 €136,000-226,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1994 and its subsequent sale on Nov 25, 1994, a second solid caseback and setting pin.
Upon its launch in 1994, Patek Philippe’s reference 5020 had a lukewarm reception but today it is a collector’s dream and highly coveted. This model was in production for about 8 years, Patek Philippe’s reference 5020, also known as the “TV Screen” due to its particular cushion shape, was an alternative to the reference 3970 featuring the same complications (and mechanically identical): perpetual calendar with leap year, 24 hour indicator and chronograph. The reference 5020’s avant garde design and tasteful proportions set it apart from other perpetual calendar chronographs from Patek Philippe. The present example, in overall appealing condition is from the first year of production, it is fresh to the market and only the 14th in white gold to appear on the market, it is further accompanied by a setting pin and extra caseback.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5020G “TV Screen”
73.
TISSOT — A very rare, most probably unpolished and attractive 14K yellow gold world time wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Tissot
Year
Circa 1950
scan for more info
Movement No.
2’591’012
Case No.
3’020’533
Material
14K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 285N-21,
Bracelet/Strap
14K yellow gold bracelet, max length 190mm
17 jewels Clasp/Buckle
14K yellow gold deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-6,000 $4,300-6,400 €3,600-5,400
The present watch is an exceedingly attractive and charming world time wristwatch. While Louis Cottier’s invention is perhaps most associated with Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin watches, he also made movements for firms such as Tissot. This example is preserved in particularly stunning condition. Cased in 14k yellow gold, the watch barely shows any signs of aging, and all enamel on the bezel is intact and crisp. The dial is preserved in excellent condition, and displays the time zones like rays emanating from the center of the watch.
74
ROLEX — A very rare, highly attractive and extremely well preserved yellow gold automatic wristwatch with center seconds, “roulette” date, “Thunderbird” bezel and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1955
Reference No.
6309
Movement No.
84’011
Case No.
74’539
Model Name
Oyster Perpetual,
Material
18K yellow gold
scan for more info
“Thunderbird” Calibre
Automatic, cal. A296, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-30,000 $16,000-32,000 €13,600-27,100
The rotating bezel has always been an important aid for divers, pilots and other technical-related professionals. The Zerographe, which Rolex made in very scarce numbers, was the very first model from the company to officially feature a rotating bezel. While reference 6202 was officially the first serially produced sports watch to feature a rotating bezel, the reference ceased production after a few years due to its lack of popularity.
Rolex merged the Turn-O-Graph and Datejust models in 1954 with reference 6309. A combination of a sports and dress watch, the watch was advertised with images of the U.S. Air Force acrobatic flying team, or Group Number 3600 of Air Demonstration. Reference 6309 and its successors adopted the namesake Thunderbird after the flying team’s emblem. The present watch most notably presents the first generation bezel, displaying an engine-turned finish. The elaborate finish of the bezel, while extremely attractive, is also extremely susceptible to polishing. Luckily, in this instance it is preserved in excellent condition, as is the rest of the timepiece most notably the dial. Free of any mark or scratch, it has acquired with time a beautiful off-white patina, enhancing the vintage appeal of the watch . Finally, the piece retains its original “roulette” (alternated red and black date) date wheel - today a rarity in itself.
75.
A highly rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, honeycomb “explorer” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1953
Reference No.
scan for more info
6350 inside caseback
Although Rolex first experimented with “3-6-9” dials before 1953, it was not until the arrival of reference 6350 that the manufacture officially used this dial configuration in their line of production.
stamped IV.53 Movement No.
53’622
Case No.
955’327
Model Name
Explorer
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. A296, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-70,000 $42,700-74,700 €36,200-63,300
The key objective in creating the Explorer was dial legibility. Luminous material was thus applied to the dial, with the iconic “3-6-9” numerals clearly recognizable even from far away. Unlike reference 6150, which bore Precision, reference 6350 was marked “Officially Certified Chronometer’” confirming the movement had been subject to stricter timing tests. This example fitted with an attractive black honeycomb dial with ‘3-6-9’ Arabic numerals, is really quite stunning. The ‘Swiss’ dial is correct, and all the luminous material is original to the watch. The Explorer dial also features a chapter ring, which we see on early tool watches. The numerals have aged to a warm orange tone, matching both the hands and lollipop seconds hand. This is an early example with pencil hands, later versions featured Mercedes hands. Furthermore, the case is preserved in excellent condition with crisp edges and facets.
RO L E X Ref. 6350 Explorer “Honeycomb”
76.
A highly rare, attractive and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “sigma” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1974
Reference No.
6265
Case No.
3’976’490
Model Name
Oyster Cosmograph
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless generic buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-60,000 ∑ $42,700-64,000 €36,200-54,200
In 1969, Rolex simultaneously launched references 6263 and 6265, replacing the first Oyster Cosmograph - Model 6240. The Cosmograph Daytona with screw-down pushers was in production for almost 20 years and was offered in either stainless steel or gold. The present reference 6265 displays a “Sigma” dial which is correct for the serial number, and is distinguished by its impressive state of preservation. The edges are incredibly crisp and sharp to the touch. Furthermore, the watch retains its original pushers, which is a particularly sought after detail. The dial is also preserved in excellent condition with barely any signs of aging. It is incredible how 50 years after its original launch, the manual wind Rolex Cosmograph Daytona still retains modernity, with its design codes perfectly capturing the zeitgeist of the late 1960s and remaining ever relevant today.
RO L E X Ref. 6265 Oyster Cosmograph “Sigma Dial”
77.
An incredibly rare, important and heavy platinum and diamond-set tonneau-shaped calendar wristwatch with sweep center seconds, light blue dial and bracelet, numbered 001
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1977
Reference No.
1831, inside case back
scan for more info
this watch differs from any other reference and demonstrates impressively that its development and production was never subject to cost efficiency but rather, to produce a model of “Imperial” dimensions.
stamped 1850 Movement No.
DD336356
Case No.
5’055’759, case further
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
Platinum and diamonds
engraved No 001
Calibre
Automatic, 1566, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum Rolex King Midas style bracelet, 180 mm. maximum length
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Rolex concealed double deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 140,000-280,000 $149,000-299,000 €127,000-253,000 Literature Reference 1831 is featured in Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, pp. 178 & 179
Reference 1831 is understood to be the result of a special order made for His Highness Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the last Shah of Iran, and takes a unique position, not only within the Day Date family but even within Rolex’s entire history. In fact, hardly any models in Rolex’s history are so different and made in such small quantities. Nearly every component of
In modern times a batch of 8 at Rolex is unthinkable knowing the company’s set up. It is even less than the all time grail Split Seconds chronograph reference 4113 said to be have made in 12 pieces. In fact, scholars today believe that only eight examples of the reference 1831 were ever produced, all cased in platinum. The present watch is engraved No 001 to the case back, leading us to believe that it was the first within the batch to be released. Out of four known examples, two are fitted with Stella dials, and two are fitted with diamond-set numerals. Reference 1831 in platinum weighs nearly 300 grams and sets itself apart with a number of features. The case is similar to the Oyster Quartz and has a bracelet design never used again on any other Day-Date. Composed of massive satin finished platinum links, it is similar to the bracelet used for the King Midas, designed by the celebrated Gerald Genta. The beautiful blue dial with sunray pattern is completely different in size and design from other Day-Date models. The oversized diamond markers are set in the middle of the minute track, which is slightly further outward in position compared to the regular Day-Date watches. In every collecting field there is a holy grail, and in the world of Day-Date reference 1831 is definitely one of the strongest and most prominent candidates for this title.
RO L E X Ref. 1831 Day-Date “The Imperial No. 001”
78.
A very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with Paul Newman “Musketeer” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1970
Reference No.
6262
Case No.
2’526’247
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Paul Newman “Musketeer” Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster folded bracelet stamped “7835” and “271” to the endlinks, max length 215mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “4 68”
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-150,000 $107,000-160,000 €90,400-136,000
At Rolex, 1970 was marked by the launch of two Cosmograph references; the 6262 with the silver bezel and the 6264 with an acrylic bezel. Very similar to the previous generation, these two references were fitted with the upgraded caliber 727. As often in production, the new reference was launched when spare parts from the precedent was still available hence some of the first models produced, like the present one, using a caseback with the previous reference 6239 written inside. Both references were produced for a few years only and were the last Daytona references to be fitted with pump pushers, their screw-pusher counterparts (ref 6263 and 6265) soon overtaking them in popularity. Displaying a very rare variant of the “Paul Newman” dial, this tri-color reference 6262 is fitted with the so-called “Musketeer” variation. Usually, Paul Newman dials have a concentric circle pattern (azurage) on the flat subdials. However, on Musketeers dials the azurage covers only two-third of the surface; the remaining outer sector not only is smooth, but it is also sloped: a completely different subdial design than the standard one. Presented in excellent condition, this rare dial variation will appeal to the most discerning among Daytona collectors.
RO L E X Ref. 6262 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman Musketeer”
79.
A highly rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer “Explorer Underline” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1964
Reference No.
scan for more info
5513, inside caseback stamped III.63
Case No. Model Name
1’025’925 “Explorer Submariner Underline”
Material
with the more common matte dial. Admired and praised by collectors, these early examples are highly sought after and rare with varying dial examples commanding more than others.
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1530, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 1.63
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 $107,000-213,000 €90,400-181,000
Introduced in 1962, the Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 and 5512 were the first Submariner models to feature crown guards, which gave the timepiece a completely different appeal whilst enhancing its robustness. Its predecessors, such as reference 5508 or 6536/1 all featured a ‘small crown’, which Rolex deemed too delicate for a robust tool watch. Early examples of the reference were fitted with “glossy” lacquered dials with a short production span of approximately four years. In 1967, Rolex replaced its “glossy” lacquered dials
The present watch is not just a very attractive reference 5513 but has a number of exclusive features that makes it amongst the most collectible of all Submariners. The most striking feature is the so-called “Explorer dial” or “3-6-9 dial”. While the vast majority of Submariners were fitted with regular round hour markers (for 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10 and 11) and rectangular batons (for 3, 6 and 9), the present watch bears this extremely rare dial configuration with thin batons (for 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10 and 11) and Arabic numerals (for 3, 6 and 9). The only common numeral style both versions feature is the typical triangular marker at 12.Mostly seen on the Explorer I, hence its name, this type of dial also appears on “Big Crown” Submariners, references 6200, 6538 and 5510 and the later references 5512 and 5513 with crown guards. In production for only the first half of the 1960s, references 5512 and 5513 with explorer dials are incredibly hard to find and sought-after. When analyzing this watch closer, one can spot another extremely exciting detail: an underline underneath the depth rating, as well as double “–T < 25” symbols flanking “SWISS” at 6 o’clock. The now nicknamed “underline” was used in the early 1960s to indicate a transition from radium to tritium on the dial. The watch itself is preserved in excellent and attractive condition, still retaining the original Rolex sticker on its case back and further stamped III.63 inside. The present timepiece is a rare example sure to attract true Rolex aficionados worldwide.
RO L E X Ref. 5513 “Underline Explorer Dial”
80.
A very rare and highly attractive stainless steel military diver’s wristwatch with rotating bezel, fixed bar lugs and service papers, made for the British Navy
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1972
Reference No.
5513
Case No.
3’826’398 inside caseback
Model Name
Submariner “MilSub”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1520, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
NATO
scan for more info
further stamped 1.72
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-120,000 $85,400-128,000 €72,300-108,000 Accessories Accompanied by service quote provided by Mappin & Webb Rolex retailers in London, credit card receipt for payment, Rolex Service Guarantee dated 11 April, 2014 and Rolex pouch
In the 1970s the British Ministry of Defense commissioned Rolex for a watch with specific military specifications to be worn by its officers.
These requirements included fixed spring bars welded to the lugs which prevented the fitting of a reflective bracelet, a nylon strap (by contract from the Phoenix company), a 60-minute bezel insert, large sword-shaped hands, and a luminous dial. In addition, the MOD required that dials be marked with an encircled “T” indicating the use of luminescent tritium. Rolex used its Submariner reference 5513 as a base and as such the military version of the Submariner or “MilSub” was born. Additionally, the casebacks for watches issued to the British Army were engraved with “W10”, the code for the British Royal Army, and “6645-99-9237697”, the NATO codes, followed by the issue number. The original owner of the present watch, upon parting with his watch and worried that the numbers on the caseback would put him in trouble with the MOD, had these numbers polished out. However, what this watch lacks in engravings on the caseback it makes up with its superb condition, the case maintains its original proportions, tick lugs with crisp bevels, perfectly crisp serial and reference numbers engraved between the lugs. The dial is devoid of any major flaws and the serial number is correctly engraved inside the caseback. Since it was issued the watch has had three owners and been serviced once as attested by the single London service mark inside the caseback. The watch is also delivered with its service invoice, credit card receipt and Rolex Service Guarantee dated 11 April 2014.
RO L E X Ref. 5513 Submariner “Milsub”
81.
HEUER — An attractive yellow gold automatic chronograph wristwatch, with date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
Circa 1972
Reference No.
1158CH
Model Name
Carrera
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 12’’’,
Bracelet/Strap
Associated 14K yellow gold
scan for more info
17 jewels, stamped “SX” expandable bracelet Clasp/Buckle
14K yellow gold foldable clasp
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-30,000 $16,000-32,000 €13,600-27,100
1969 was a significant year for Heuer. The years leading up to it had seen Jack Heuer reposition the brand as number one in the hearts and minds of motorsports enthusiasts. The company’s name had been placated on the world’s most desirable and fastest cars, most notably on Ferrari’s Formula One cars, and many in the sport swore by Heuer’s timekeeping equipment. Heuer’s main competition took place far away from the racetracks. Jack Heuer, the company’s then CEO, had heard rumblings about “Project 99”, a rumored collaboration between Breitling, Hamilton-Buren and Dubois Depraz to create the first automatic chronograph and boost sales of Swiss chronographs which were drastically loosing speed since the beginning of the 1960s. Heuer maneuvered quickly to present his own Heuer-branded version, and in March of 1969, the four watch companies held simultaneous press conferences in Geneva and in New York to announce the arrival of their new automatic chronographs. Early examples of the model employed the brand “Chronomatic”, which would later disappear from the Carrera’s language, to be used solely by Breitling. To go with the new automatic caliber, the Carrera’s design was slightly altered, the crown moving to the left side of the case in order to differentiate it from the self-winding version. This example is not only a very well preserved example of the model, but it is also one of the very few produced fully in gold.
82.
HEUER — An attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter bezel
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
Circa 1965
Reference No.
2446C
Case No.
130’900
Model Name
Autavia
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Valjoux 72, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case and dial signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 15,000-30,000 $16,000-32,000 €13,600-27,100
There are many very subtle design differences between the chronograph wristwatches within the Autavia reference 2446 models that aren’t always immediately obvious. This can be explained by the fact that Heuer’s designs were intuitive and dependent on each particular task the watch was to perform. After immersing himself in the racing circuit, Jack Heuer produced the tachymeter bezels for the postulant racing drivers; recognizing the surge in luxury travellers he added minutes and hours bezels for aspirational aircraft pilots.
The reference 2446H was especially favored by its namesake, the rakish Formula One champion, Jochen Rindt, who was documented wearing this specific reference in numerous photographs throughout his career. He was a prolific racing driver in the 1960s until his untimely death during the practice session at Monza for the 1970 Italian Grand Prix. Supported by his beautiful wife Nina, who famously sported a Universal Genève Compax, now known to collectors as the “Nina Rindt”, this glamorous couple remains the only one where each partner’s name was bestowed to a watch by collectors. The present lot, in very appealing condition displays a crisp case with thick lugs and bevels. The matte black dial is also preserved in very attractive condition. The rugged yet refined second execution example, characterized by its screwdown caseback and streamlined beveled lugs, measures a hefty 39mm in diameter (and 13mm in thickness) and is a favorite of the Heuer collecting community.
83.
A rare and highly attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with black glossy dial, retailed by LIP
Manufacturer
Blancpain
Year
Circa 1970
Case No.
273’879
Model Name
Fifty Fathoms
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. AS 1361N, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
NATO strap
Clasp/Buckle
Plastic buckle
Dimensions
41mm. Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $26,700-53,400 €22,600-45,200
scan for more info
First released in 1953, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms was Blancpain’s first commercially available modern dive watch. The timepiece was developed in association with the French Navy and their professional diver unit, the Service de Documentation Extérieure et de Contre-Espionnage. The head of this unit was Captain Bob Maloubier, who personally sketched out the watch that would one day be fully realized as the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Maloubier found a champion for his project in Blancpain’s CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter - a passionate diver himself. Fiechter named the watch after the greatest depth that a combat diver was believed able to withstand at the time, fifty fathoms or 91.45 meters. Through the last decades, the Fifty Fathoms has become a highly sought after and collectible mid-20th century watch. Extremely robust and reliable, it was truly designed by military professionals, and was soon selected by other militaries around the world for their diving units, including the U.S. Navy. The watch combined cutting edge features such as an antimagnetic and water-resistant case, a screw down caseback, a “double O-ring crown system”, an automatic movement and a rotating bezel. Retailed by LIP around 1955, this timepiece watch is a real treasure for collectors seeking a historically important and conceptually modern tool watch in great overall condition.
B L A N C PA I N Fifty Fathoms “LIP”
84.
An extremely rare and very large stainless steel pilot’s wristwatch with center seconds and 24 hour dial, made for Swissair
Manufacturer
Longines
Year
1955
Reference No.
6630
Movement No.
8’237’338
Case No.
46
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 37.9 S, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
47mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $53,400-107,000 €45,200-90,400 Accessories Accompanied By Longines Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch and its subsequent sale to Swissair on July 1, 1955 Literature This model is prominently featured and illustrated in the book “Longines Through Time”, published by Longines, pp. 132-133
In the 1950s, Longines issued a series of timepieces made for Swissair. It was intended to be used by personnel of civilian flights, and had very specific characteristics. Beyond the pilot style (large, case, onion crown), they featured a 24-hour dial, intended to minimize the room for mistakes when crossing time zones as routinely happens to pilots. The back is engraved with the name of the company and the issue number (in this instance, 46). The fact that the watch was the result of a direct collaboration finds further confirmation on the fact that the Extract mentions that the watch was sold directly to Swissair, rather than to a distributor as it usually happens. Longines is not the only company to have been contacted by an airline to develop a watch during the 50s. This trend is a direct consequence of the fact that long range air travel was truly becoming relatively commonplace during those years with direct consequences also in the field of watchmaking, among many others. An extremely unusual series, the model is prominently featured in Longine’s book “Longines Through Time”; coincidentally, the timepiece pictured on the book bears a movement number 7 digits lower (...331) than the present example. The present watch is fresh to the market, and one of the crispest examples we have seen, it is accompanied by what we believe to be its original strap and buckle.
LONGINES Ref. 6630 “Swissair”
85.
A fine and very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter bezel and special orange chronograph hand
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1968
Reference No.
145.012-67 SP
Movement No.
26.077.649
Model Name
Omega Speedmaster
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Professional “Ultraman” Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract of the Archives confirming production of the present watch on June 6, 1968, and delivered to the Navy, Army and Air Force Institutes (NAAFI).
The success of the Omega Speedmaster reference 145.012 “Ultraman” can be explained by its direct and playful link to collector’s younger years. In the mid-1960s, Japanese director Eiji Tsuburaya (co-creator of the original Godzilla series) began writing what would become the Ultraman series. Ultraman begins with an intergalactic being (Ultraman) accidentally colliding with and killing a member of Earth’s Science Special Search Party (SSSP), Shin Hayata. Feeling remorseful, Ultraman merges his own life force with Hayata’s and vows to defend Earth against any that would seek to threaten it. Ultraman
lives within Hayata, who transforms into Ultraman when the need arises. While Hayata is a normal man, Ultraman is a 40 meter tall silver and red-orange creature. His crested head and large, intimidating eyes became instantly iconic, as did his orange and silver suit. The catch was that Ultraman could only fight for three minutes before his energy was depleted. In 1971, according to Omega, the producers of Ultraman Returns selected Omega’s “Moonwatch” as part of the Monster Attack Team’s monster fighting kit. Reference 145.012-67 was also used by more contemporary superheroes such as the astronauts on the Apollo 11, Apollo 14, and Apollo-Soyuz missions. It was the last Speedmaster model to be fitted with the renowned caliber 321 and is set apart from its predecessors by its ‘SP’ (‘SP’ for “Spécial Poussoirs” or “special pushers”) that increased water resistance. For many years collectors believed these watches were later modifications. However, after prolonged research, it appears that a very limited batch (less than fifty) of Speedmaster watches were produced by Omega with the iconic central second orange hand. However, the number of official “Ultraman” watches is still unknown, what is known is that all these watches were produced in 1968 and with serial numbers ranging from 26.076.xxx and 26.079.xxx. With the introduction in the summer of 2018 of the immensely successful Speedy Tuesday Ultraman limited edition, interest in vintage Ultraman Speedmasters has dramatically increased. The present lot, delivered in 1968 to the Navy,Army and Air Force Institutes (NAAFI) is preserved in great condition and is a remarkable opportunity for the collector of unusual and rare vintage pieces to own one of the fabled Ultraman Speedmaster.
OMEGA Ref. 145.012-67 SP Speedmaster “Ultraman”
86.
A limited edition stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, made to commemorate the first joint crewed international space mission and released for the Italian market
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1976
Reference No.
145.022
Movement No.
39’181’034
Model Name
Omega Speedmaster
scan for more info
Apollo-Soyuz Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 861, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega bracelet, end links stamped 633, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega Deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
stamped “1168”
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production in May 3, 1976, and delivered to Italy.
On the 15th of July 1975, the historical Apollo-Soyuz Test Project (ASTP) marked the first crewed international space mission cooperatively carried out by the United States and Soviet Union. Two days later, on July 17th, the mission resulted in a successful docking of the American Apollo with a Soviet Union Soyouz capsule.
Not only was this considered to be an important and memorable moment for space reconnaissance but also considered internationally as marking the end of the “Space Race” commenced in 1957 with the Sputnik 1. The success of the first international crewed mission was commemorated a year later by Omega, who issued a limited edition of 500 special Speedmasters based on the classic Speedmaster Professional 145.022 model with caliber 861 movement, such as the present watch. The dial of this limited edition series bears the mission emblem at 12 o’clock without the Speedmaster Professional inscriptions, and long hour markers. The case of the Apollo-Soyouz is also slightly different from the standard version as the chronograph pushers have a slightly larger diameter of 5.5mm rather than the usual 5mm. Consequently the case band had also to be adjusted. The exclusive Apollo-Soyuz watches were all made for the Italian market, as evidenced by flanked circled “I” on its caseback. The limited series of Speedmaster utilizes a cal.861 and have case numbers ranging between 39.180.xx and 39.181.xx. Instantly recognisable among collectors, the Apollo-Soyuz Speedmaster is the second limited edition ever released by Omega. Preserved in great overall condition, the present lot is a remarkable opportunity for the collector of historical important and rare vintage pieces.
OMEGA Ref. 145.022 Speedmaster “Apollo-Soyuz”
87.
A highly rare and well-preserved platinum and yellow gold tonneau-shaped wristwatch
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1920
Case No.
11298 and 4326
Model Name
Tonneau
Material
Platinum and 18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Metal buckle
Dimensions
26.5mm Width and 38mm Length
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,300-42,700 €18,100-36,200
scan for more info
One of the most iconic designs of the 20th century, the present watch is one of the very first Tonneau models ever made. Exuding elegance, the present timepiece was the brainchild of Louis Cartier and incredibly modern in appearance when launched in 1906. It is incredible how a design from the early 20th century is synonymous with Cartier’s design codes today, attesting to Louis Cartier’s vision for La Maison. In fact, this very model today has been revived throughout Cartier’s history, proof of its enduring design. Details such as the guilloché flower and cabochon crown can still be found on Cartier models today. The present timepiece is consigned from the family of the original owner, a jeweler in Paris who had bought the timepiece directly from the Cartier boutique. Still displaying its original hand stamped Cartier numbers and French hallmarks, the timepiece has not been restored in any way - attesting to its desirability and collectibility. Incredibly important in terms of the brand’s historical context, this timepiece represents the history and design flair of one of the most important models from the world’s most important watch brands.
C A RT I E R Tonneau
88.
An extremely rare, attractive and unusual yellow gold wristwatch, retailed by Cartier London
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1972
Movement No.
2’087’786
Case No.
1402
Model Name
“Baseball”
Material
18K yellow gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Manual, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
stamped 1402 Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed. Case and buckle further stamped with London hallmarks
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $53,400-107,000 €45,200-90,400
The 1970s were a time of incredible creative turmoil. Spurred by the changes in society - which was verring toward more carefree social rules - designers in every field came up with some of the most intriguing designs to ever appear in any field: from watches, to jewellery, passing through the cars, buildings and of course garment fashion, a true design revolution took place during those years.
London was undoubtedly one the epicentres of this change, and thus it is no surprise that Cartier London created during those years some of the most impressive, creative and iconic designs of its multi-century history. The present watch - nicknamed “The Pebble” or “Baseball” due to its appearance - is one such creation. Deceptively simple, the entire design is centred around the two most “pure” geometrical shapes: the circle (case shape) and the square (dial shape). The contrast of the circular case with the angular dial grants an enormous aesthetic impact to the ensemble: the fact that Cartier managed to achieve such a momentous effect with such a simple design is testament to the incredible design proficiency of the brand. Of particular note is the originality of the timepiece; the number 1402 is stamped both on the case and on the clasp, showing that the watch remained with its original buckle throughout its whole life. Furthermore, there are English hallmarks for 1972 on the clasp, as well as the “JC” stamp for Jacques Cartier. Research suggests that around 6 examples were made, underscoring the rarity of the present timepiece. This model is furthermore present in Cartier’s heritage collection, proof of its importance within the history of the brand.
C A RT I E R “Baseball”
89.
An exquisite, exceptionally rare and highly important yellow gold tortue-shaped single-button chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1930
Case No.
30141 37A
Model Name
Tortue Chronographe
Material
18k Yellow Gold
Monopoussoir Calibre
Manual Wind, 25 Jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18k Yellow Gold Deployant Clasp
Dimensions
26mm Width, 35mm Length
Signed
Dial signed by maker, case and movement signed by watchmaker
Provenance Lot 379, Christie's South Kensington, June 30, 1989. Estimate CHF 60,000-100,000 $64,000-107,000 €54,200-90,400
scan for more info
This incredible timepiece is a rare testament to the design and watchmaking proficiency of Cartier during the first half of the past century. It is a well accepted reality that Cartier’s design department gifted the horological world with some of the most iconic and everlasting timepieces ever drawn - since the very beginning actually, with - for example - the inception of the Tank in 1917. The present Tortue design is in fact even earlier than the Tank, having been introduced in 1912. It will however take 15 years for this single-button chronograph variation to be presented, in 1927. This watch proves that in some very exclusive pieces, the design mastery of Cartier was coupled with the most refined watchmaking skills. The heart of this exquisite chronograph is a superbly executed movement signed by European Watch & Clock Co. and based on a Victorin Piguet ébauche. Very few pieces were made, of which only an even smaller fraction is known to the collectors’ community today. Cartier dials are notoriously sensitive to ageing, thus it often happens that some degree of restoration is to be found on such dials. In this exceptional instance, the dial is instead absolutely unrestored, with all the graphics present and perfectly preserved. The strong patina that has developed with age is proof of the absolute honesty of the timepiece, and enhances the vintage vibe of this phenomenal watch.
C A RT I E R Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir
90.
An attractive and rare titanium diver’s wristwatch with Certificate and Box
Manufacturer
Ming
Year
2020
Reference No.
18.01 H41
scan for more info
Case No.
001’973
Material
Titanium
Calibre
Automatic, ETA 2824-2,
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber, further accompanied by extra
25 jewels Ming leather blue strap Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel MING pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 2,000-3,000 • $2,100-3,200 €1,800-2,700 Accessories Accompanied by MING Guarantee, leather card holder, leather pouch, outer packaging and extra strap.
MING is an incredibly creative micro brand whose first watch was launched in 2017 and has ever since hit a chord with collectors. Making only a handful of watches in small series each model is sold out within minutes of being released. The brand takes the name of one of its founders and core drivers: Ming Thein, a physicist by training, and a world renowned photographer. A long time watch collector he decided that he wanted to create his own brand and offer a watch impeccably made but at a very competitive price point. The present H41 dive watch is incredibly well conceived and bears the signature designs found on all MING watches: flared lugs, architectural dial, use of super Luminova and a general minimalistic design. A dive watch with an incredible water resistance of 1000 meters….that’s 1KM (!) it nevertheless maintains restrained proportions of 40mm in diameter, 12.9mm thick and weighing a mere 65g thanks to its titanium case. The dial is also impressively designed with a two level sapphire construction with HyCeram Super-LumiNova XI (a luminous ceramic composite). The H41 is not a limited edition per se but only 125 examples were made, all were sold out and the model discontinued.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
MING Ref. 18.01 H41
91.
A unique automatic minute repeating yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with date, F.P. Journe repeating mechanism and J.P. Hagmann case
Manufacturer
Anonymous
Year
1992
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 7750
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold buckle
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 ∑ $10,700-16,000 €9,000-13,600 Accessories Accompanied by handwritten J.P. Hagmann certificate confirming the watch is unique and made in collaboration with F.P. Journe dated March 11, 2016 and working instructions.
The artisanal production technique involved with many aspects of watchmaking has a direct consequence whereby the most skilled specialist in their respective fields (whether it is enameling, case making, or pure watchmaking) acquire the status of true champions and regarded as near legendary figures. Names like Suzanne Rohr (enameller), Gay Frères (bracelet maker), Wenger (case maker) come to mind, but even in modern times a few “lighthouse” names have emerged.
Among watchmakers, F.P. Journe needs virtually no introduction, having managed to create from scratch a brand (and relative aesthetic code) which is now among the most sought-after in the current market. Maybe less of a household name - but at least equally legendary in his own field to Mr. Journe - J.P. Hagmann is widely considered one of the (if not the) best case maker in the entire history of horology, having collaborated with virtually all the most important brands. To give an example, when in 1989 Patek Philippe created the most complicated watch in the world (the Calibre 89), Hagmann was their case maker of choice for the pieces. The present watch thus represents a “rendez-vous of titans”, being a special commission featuring a chronograph movement with date, and minute repeater mechanism executed by F.P. Journe, and a sublimely executed gold Hagmann case. The handwritten Hagmann certificate (which specifies not only the authenticity, but also the unicity of the watch, the Hagmann case provenance, and even the F.P. Journe collaboration) together with Mr. Hagmann’s notes on how the case should be (lugs design, dial kind, etc.) are the final icing on the cake for the collector of important and unusual timepieces.
ANONYMOUS “The Minute Repeating Chronograph”
92.
An attractive and technically impressive pink gold dual time wristwatch with double escapement, original guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
Circa 2007
Case No.
343-RN
Model Name
Chronomètre à Resonance
Material
18k pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1499, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-80,000 $53,400-85,400 €45,200-72,300 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe Guarantee, product literature, polishing cloth, fitted presentation box outer packaging and service papers from VR Horlogerie in Belgium dated July 2019 Literature F.P. Journe Invenit et Fecit by Jean-Pierre Grosz is dedicated to Francois-Paul Journe and his work.
François-Paul Journe’s Chronomètre à Resonance, launched in 2000, was the world’s first wristwatch to use the resonance phenomenon whereby the movement is composed of two independent balances, alternatively serving as an “exciter” and “resonator”. When in motion, the balances create the resonance effect and beat in opposition, naturally evening out each other’s discrepancies and thus permitting greater accuracy. Inspired by the work of the great 18th century watchmaker Antide Janvier, Journe rose to the challenge in 1983 and created a pocket-watch using the resonance phenomenon and launched a wristwatch 17 years later. In addition to being a maverick, the Chronomètre à Resonance is also an extremely useful dual time watch. The present example is part of the 2nd generation models featuring a 40mm case and a pink gold movement and made only between 2005 and 2008. Interestingly Journe has produced more timepieces cased in platinum than pink gold making the present example in pink gold with lovely grey dial even more covetable. In overall excellent condition it is complete with its original certificate and presentation box, further adding to its collectibility.
F. P. J O U R N E Chronomètre à Resonance “40mm Pink Gold Movement”
93.
An extremely rare, beautiful and important platinum tourbillon wristwatch with remontoir d’egalité, brass movement and white gold dial
In just over 20 years, Francois-Paul Journe has gone from being a budding artisanal watchmaker known by a handful of cognoscenti, to a name who shares the spotlight with auction behemoths such as Patek Philippe and Rolex, all while maintaining the artisanal and pure watchmaking genetic codes of his first years. Fascinated by tourbillon watches, Journe decided to transpose Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention into a wristwatch but also to improve it with the addition of a remontoire system - a constant force device used to provide an equal amount of energy disregarding the winding level of the mainspring, thus resulting in greater accuracy and amplitude. The first prototype was completed in 1991 with little, if any fanfare from the industry. He revisited his tourbillon wristwatch in 1999 in order to fund the launch of his eponymous brand and used a subscription system for his first twenty tourbillon wristwatches, each individually numbered on the dial. These were offered to his close friends and clients.
F. P. J O U R N E Tourbillon Souverain “38mm Brass Movement”
93.
An extremely rare, beautiful and important platinum tourbillon wristwatch with remontoir d’egalité, brass movement and white gold dial
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
1999
Case No.
041/99T
Model Name
Tourbillon Souverain
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1498, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 250,000-450,000 ∑ $267,000-480,000 €226,000-407,000 Accessories Accompanied by undated and unstamped F.P. Journe warranty, modern fitted box and outer packaging and polishing cloth. Literature F.P. Journe Invenit et Fecit by Jean-Pierre Grosz is dedicated to Francois-Paul Journe and his work.
The present Tourbillon à Remontoire d’Egalité is one of the earlier production pieces dating from 1999, bearing number 41. It is part of the 3rd series due to the larger font for the power reserve and the flat remontoire cock. It is believed that less than 44 third generation models were ever made, regardless of case and dial combination. The majority of Journe’s Tourbillon models were made with yellow gold dials and the present example is one of the very rare examples made with a white gold dial giving the watch a superbly stealth monochrome look.
F. P. J O U R N E Tourbillon Souverain “38mm Brass Movement”
94.
A striking and rare pink gold limited edition dual time wristwatch with date, enamel dial, warranty and presentation box, made for William & Son
Manufacturer
Laurent Ferrier
Year
Circa 2017
Reference No.
W002022
Movement No.
183
Model Name
Galet Traveler
Material
18k pink gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. LF230.01, 48 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold Laurent Ferrier pin buckle
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 $26,700-48,000 €22,600-40,700 Accessories Accompanied by Laurent Ferrier fitted box, undated and un-stamped warranty, user manual, cleaning cloth and loupe. Literature Laurent Ferrier and the Galet Micro-Rotor are prominently illustrated in Watchmakers, The Masters of Art Horology by Maxima Gallery pp 136-159.
Laurent Ferrier is a true master with an understated aesthetic, and technical ingenuity that is rooted in the classic traditions of the past, but with a modern appeal. A trained watchmaker, he spent almost 40 years working at Patek Philippe in product
development before creating his own brand, where he introduced his superb tourbillon wristwatch, the Galet Classique Tourbillon Double Spiral in 2010. Since then, he has produced other ground-breaking complicated timepieces including the Galet Minute Repeater and the Galet Traveller, which is Ferrier’s modern reinterpretation of Patek Philippe’s renowned reference 2597 travel-time watch. The present pink gold Galet Traveler is an ultra-exclusive 5 piece limited series in pink gold made for London based retailer William & Son. The dial, executed in champlevé enamel depicts the night sky over the globe. The enameller’s attention to detail has gone so deep that the artist has even painted the night lights of each region, with the UK being subtly painted in red. The two buttons on the case side move the hour hand backward or forward by one hour to set time in a new time zone, home time being elegantly displayed via an aperture at 9 o’clock, the date is displayed at 3 o’clock. Not only a pretty face, the Galet Traveller also features a double direct-impulse natural escapement (an escapement devised by Breguet in the late 18th century and which very few watchmakers have managed to recreate) using two nickel phosphorous escape wheels and a silicon lever as ensuring better distribution of energy. The movement is also further beautifully hand decorated to the nth degree with a beautiful tapered rotor bridge, polished angles and Geneva waves.
L AU R E N T F E R R I E R Ref. W002022 Galet Traveler “Enamel Dial”
95.
An elegant and cutting edge pink gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with spherical moonphase display, guarantee, and box
Manufacturer
De Bethune
Year
Circa 2017
Reference No.
DB25QP
Movement No.
DB2324 n°125
Case No.
22
scan for more info
Model Name
DB 25
Material
18k pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. DB2024.762, 47 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold De Bethune pin buckle
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $26,700-53,400 €22,600-45,200 Accessories Accompanied by unstamped and undated De Bethune Certificate of Origin and Warranty, setting pin, user manual and fitted box Literature De Bethune is featured in Watchmakers: The Masters of Art Horology by Maxima Gallery pp. 104-121
De Bethune is most certainly one of the most exciting brands to have been born in this Millennium. Their designs are bold, brazen and may speak to the free thinking artistically inclined collector but one element that the collecting community agrees upon is the amazing ultra-progressive movements that drive the watches. The present DB25 perpetual calendar features easy to read indications with the day and month indicated via apertures on the sides of the dial, date at 6 o’clock and the brand’s signature three dimensional spherical moon phase display made of titanium and platinum and accurate up to 122 years. A leap year indication is also placed below the moon display. The 425 component caliber features all the signature elements one has come to expect from this innovative maker: ¾ plate with starry décor, sandblasted and snailed by hand, balance bridge and rotor arms in blued titanium, self-regulating twin barrel, titanium and platinum balance wheel, De Bethune balance spring with flat terminal curve and triple pare-chute shock absorbing system amongst others. In almost unworn condition, the present DB25 is a milestone of contemporary haute horlogerie and a must have for the collector looking for something different that only De Bethune can offer.
DE BETHUNE Ref. DB25QP
96.
A highly rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with enamel dial, bracelet, original certificate and documentation
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2526 “The Full Monty”
96.
A highly rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with enamel dial, bracelet, original certificate and documentation
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1954
Reference No.
2526
Movement No.
761’049
Case No.
683’754
Material
18K yellow gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 12-600, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe Gay Frères bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe folding clasp
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
stamped 4.57
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $42,700-85,400 €36,200-72,300 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin and receipt dated November 10, 1955, letter and receipt from Patek Philippe dated January 7, 1957 for the additional bracelet, product literature and period catalog. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1954 and its subsequent sale on November 10, 1955.
Patek Philippe’s first automatic wristwatch, the legendary reference 2526, was introduced to the market in 1953 and set the standard for a timeless and elegant case design. Reference 2526 was launched with the celebrated caliber 12-600 AT Patek Philippe’s first automatic movement, considered by many to be the most beautiful self-winding movement made by any manufacturer. Fresh to the auction market, the present first series example is distinguished not only by its near-pristine condition, but also by the presence of many original documents. It is accompanied by its Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin and receipt dated November 10, 1955, along with a letter and receipt from Patek Philippe dated January 7, 1957 regarding the purchase of an additional bracelet fitted to the dimensions of the original owner’s wrist. It is even accompanied by product literature and a period catalog, with a note from the original owner chronicling his purchase of the watch. Such documents are incredibly scarce and precious, as they give insight into the history and character of each timepiece, showing its life and history. It is furthermore preserved in excellent condition with crisp hallmarks, and a very well-preserved first series dial which does not display cracks.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2526 “The Full Monty”
97.
A seductive and rare stainless steel and pink gold chronograph wristwatch with pink champagne dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1939
Reference No.
3525
Case No.
47’813
Model Name
“Barilotto”
Material
Stainless steel and 18k pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case signed Oyster Watch Co., dial and movement signed Rolex
Estimate CHF 60,000-120,000 $64,000-128,000 €54,200-108,000
scan for more info
Launched in 1939, the ref. 3525 was Rolex’s very first chronograph wristwatch to be housed in an Oyster case defined by water resistant screw down case back as well as screw down winding crown. It was offered in yellow gold, pink gold, stainless steel and steel and gold like the present attractive example, featuring a steel case and a pink gold bezel and crown. Analysis of publicly known pieces shows that - with the exception of a few outliers - most of the production for the reference is grouped in three “batches”, with respectively serial numbers around 40’xxx-50’xxx for the first batch, then in the mid 100’000 for the second, and in the mid-300’000 the last. The present model from 1939 is part of the early examples with the serial number stamped on the case back, whereas later models had the serial numbers engraved between the lugs. The case is in overall very appealing condition with the serial and reference numbers perfectly crisp and legible. Note also the presence of the original ‘Brevet’ Oyster crown. However, the most enticing element is the striking pink champagne dial which is beautifully framed by the pink gold bezel and further enhanced by the blue hands and tachymeter and telemeter scales. Thanks to its amazingly perfect proportions and balanced dial design, the Rolex reference 3525 is most arguably one of the most elegant chronographs of its time.
RO L E X Ref. 3525 “Two-Tone Barilotto”
98.
A very fine, rare and important yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, retailed by Gübelin
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1977
Reference No.
3448
Movement No.
1’119’509
Case No.
332’867
scan for more info
Model Name
“Padellone”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 27-460Q, 37 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
stamped twice with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold PPCo pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 120,000-200,000 $128,000-213,000 €108,000-181,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming the production of the watch in 1977 and its subsequent sale on April 4, 1978, further accompanied by Extract from Gübelin Registers confirming watch was sold on June 5, 1980.
The groundbreaking reference 3448, launched in 1962, was the world's first self-winding perpetual calendar wristwatch.
This model incorporates design elements absolutely typical of the 1960s with its angular lugs and taught lines. Historically, it is remarkable as it is one of the very few complicated models which Patek Philippe kept producing even during the quartz crisis of the 1970s: it was in fact made from 1961 to 1981, when it was retired in favor of its sibling ref. 3450. The movement is based on what is universally recognized as one of the greatest automatic movement ever designed: cal. 27-460 (which is the final evolution of historical cal. 12-600AT), upgraded of course with a perpetual movement to become cal. 27-460Q (Q for Quantième: perpetual). The design is defined by a very futuristic case architecture and an extremely clean dial, without virtually any kind of graphic addition save for the minute divisions and the signature. It is defined by sharp, angular shapes - a completely different approach to case architecture than the smooth curves found on other historical pieces such as reference 2499 and 1518. The present example’s desirability is heightened by the Gübelin signature at 6 o’clock; it is one of only 12 examples with this trait. Originally based in Lucerne, Gübelin is known for drawing a line inside the caseback of the watches sold through their premises to indicate the date of purchase and to allow a record of service history. As one could expect, this watch displays this mark and is further accompanied by an extract from the Gübelin registers confirming the double signed dial.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3448 “The Gübelin Padellone”
99.
An extremely well preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with multiscale luminous dial, retailed by Astrua Torino
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1937
Reference No.
2508
Case No.
44’957
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 80,000-140,000 $85,400-149,000 €72,300-127,000 Literature The present watch is featured in the 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Golberger App
Introduced in the mid 1930s the Rolex reference 2508 is a favorite amongst collectors due to its oversized case, flat bezel, and classic no frills design that is, compared to the rest of the brand’s production, more in-line with those of two other historical Genevan brands: Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. This reference existed in two different configurations. Early models feature olive-shaped pushers and a larger case diameter; second generation versions instead come with rectangular pushers. Furthermore, early 2508s have the serial numbers punched on the caseback, whereas later ones have
100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger App.
the 6-digit number finely engraved at the edge of the back, establishing a tradition upheld until the mid 2000s (then, Rolex switched to engraving the numbers on the inside of the carrure). This example is without a doubt one of the best preserved 2508s to ever appear on the market. A representative of the first series, it sports an incredibly crisp case, with sharp edges and unmolested engravings to the back. The presence of the Turin retailer Astrua’s signature on the dial further elevates the collectability of this watch. Another layer of interest is given by the fixed bars present on the watch. An intriguing detail in itself, it is even more surprising on a gold case: normally, soldered bars meant the watch was intended for heavy usage (in fact, they are often found on military pieces) and thus they are normally used on steel cases. In fact, the majority of ref. 2508 examples were born with soldered bars, but nearly all of them had the bars removed at some point in time. To find one with its original bars is an exceptional occurrence. Furthermore, the intriguing detail of one of the gold hallmarks stamped directly to the top bar (thus also confirming that these are the original, untampered bars) adds additional interest to the piece. It is unsurprising that such a remarkable piece spent the last few years of its life in one of the most important Italian watch collections, and there is little doubt that its new home will be in the hands of another fine connoisseur of vintage timepieces.
RO L E X Ref. 2508 “Time Capsule Astrua Torino”
100.
A very fine, rare and highly important yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases
If one were to ask a Patek Philippe connoisseur which one is the reference that best encapsulates the ethos, savoir-faire, aesthetics and craftsmanship of the company, the are good chances that the answer will be: “Reference 2499”. It is today in the genetic code of Patek Philippe as important and relevant as, for example, the Submariner is for Rolex, or the Tank for Cartier. This model has become over the years one of the “gold standards” against which many - if not all - Patek Philippe complicated models are weighted. The present 1964 example is a representative of the third series of the reference. It sports an engraved/enamelled dial - as expected from an example of this era - furthermore in superb condition, and an equally well preserved case. It can be arguably considered, in terms of condition, one of the most remarkable representatives of ref. 2499. The crisp hallmark to the side of the lug matches the sharp edges. Even the tiny flat metal ring present on the bezel around the crystal features remarkable sharpness on its edge with the bezel side. An absolutely impressive, best-in-class example of this hallowed model. The dial as well is breathtaking. It is the engraved/enamelled version - as expected from a 1964 example - instead of the much more easy to produce printed version (introduced in the 1970s). All graphics are in perfect condition and without losses, the enamel wonderfully raised above the dial surface.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2499 “Hard Enamel Dial Third Series”
100.
A very fine, rare and highly important yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1964
Reference No.
2499
Movement No.
869’331
Case No.
2’632’523
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
stamped “HOX” Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 400,000-800,000 $427,000-854,000 €362,000-723,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1964 and its subsequent sale on January 29, 1965.
The third series remained in production for about two decades, from 1958 to ’78 circa. While the case presents virtually no differences with second series cases (but was made exclusively by the casemaker Wenger: no Vichet third series are known, while Vichet examples are known from the first and second series), the dial - which now sports exclusively baton numerals - presents a small modification compared to previous series which however dramatically alters the overall “look-and-feel” of the watch: the tachymeter scale is removed. This decision allowed for a much more airy design, which is in perfect accord with the predominant fashion of the 1960s/1970s. Given the spacious, simpler dial, third series 2499 watches offer a remarkably more modern vibe than their earlier counterparts. Notwithstanding the 2 decades production run, the third series of the reference presents no evolution of the dial, which is the same throughout the entire production. What changes is production methodology, with engraved/enamelled dials abandoned in favour of printed dials during the 1970s - as mentioned earlier. A few black dial pieces are known. While slightly more swift than in earlier times, production of third series pieces still just crawled, with about 10 examples made per year. Jealously kept in the same collection for the most part of the past two decades, the present timepiece last appeared on the public market in October 2004.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2499 “Hard Enamel Dial Third Series”
101.
A fine and attractive stainless steel dual time wristwatch with center seconds, date, day and night indication, Certificate of Origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2017
Reference No.
5164A
Movement No.
7’069’887
Case No.
6’137’038
Model Name
Aquanaut Travel Time
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 S C FUS, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
41.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 • $21,300-42,700 €18,100-36,200 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated 19th July 2017 stamped “Beyer Chronometrie AG, Zurich”, product literature, setting pin, leather folio, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut was launched in 1997 and was the first Patek Philippe to be worn with a resistant rubber strap, also called “Tropical”. It is no surprise that the watch soon became popular among younger clients, looking for a versatile and sportive wristwatch, without compromising the quality and craftmanship Patek Philippe is renowned for. The iconic case and distinctive checkboard pattern on the dial adds to its masculine design. Introduced in 2011, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5164 Travel Time is the very first complicated Aquanaut model. Featuring a practical dual time function indicated by an additional white skeleton hand, the dial also depicts both home and local day and night indication through two small apertures. Fitted with two pushers on the left side of the case band without breaking the symmetry of the case, the pushers allow easy adjustment to the local time. Retaining its iconic case design with a comfortable size measuring 41.5mm, the comfort is further enhanced via a rubber strap. The reference was introduced in stainless steel first with a pink gold iteration launched after. The present example Patek Philippe ref. 5164 stainless steel is offered in an excellent overall condition and is further accompanied by its original Certificate of Origin, setting pin, and its presentation box. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5164A Aquanaut Travel Time
102.
A very fine, rare and attractive stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds, annual calendar, moonphases, 24-hour indication, bracelet, original certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2014
Reference No.
5726/1A
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Movement No.
5’778’382
Case No.
4’650’603
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 S QA LU 24H, 34 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet stamped
stamped with the Patek Philippe seal “A384FBP” to the endlink, max length 210mm Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe double deployant clasp
Dimensions
40.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 • $32,000-53,400 €27,100-45,200 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped by Gübelin and dated June 21, 2014, setting pin, product literature, leather document holder, fitted presentation box and outer packaging
In 1996, Patek Philippe patented the Annual Calendar complication, a new mechanism that took into account the different lengths of the months and required only one annual adjustment in February.
The new complication was a very welcome “middle ground” between the simple calendar (requiring correction at the end of every non-31-days month) and the almighty (but expensive and produced in very small amounts) perpetual calendar. It made then perfect sense for Patek Philippe to create a Nautilus with this complication, and in 2010 reference 5726 was launched. Housed in the immediately recognizable case designed by Gerald Genta with a fair 40.5 millimeter diameter, this annual calendar movement displays its indications on a beautiful white dial. Indeed, the present reference 5726/1A-010 is the second variation of the Annual Calendar Nautilus, launched in 2012. For the first time (with the exception of a vintage prototype piece) the Nautilus was donning a white dial, joining in the catalogue the black dial version launched two years prior. A third dial version for the watch (the classic petrol blue) was introduced in 2019, and it is now the only version available, the white and black dial variations having been discontinued. Offered by the original owner complete of all of its accessory and in close to “as-new” condition, the present lot is an exclusive occasion to own what is quickly becoming a cult piece. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5726/1A Nautilus
103.
A highly rare and collectible stainless steel wristwatch with two-tone luminous dial, engraved case back, original certificate, attestation and presentation box, made to celebrate the re-opening of the Patek Philippe boutique in Geneva in 2006
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2006
Reference No.
5565A
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Movement No.
3’559’717
Case No.
4’409’514
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 215 PS, 18 jewels, stamped with
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
the Geneva Seal
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,300-42,700 €18,100-36,200 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated April 13, 2007 and stamped by Salons Patek Philippe de Genève, limited edition Attestation dated April 13, 2007, original invoice date April 13, 2007, commemorative medal, product literature, leather wallet and commemorative presentation box.
In 2006, Patek Philippe launched Reference 5565 in celebration of the re-opening of the newly renovated Geneva boutique. Unlike most Patek Phillipe watch cases which are made of precious metal, this watch was conceived in stainless steel with a special engraving on the caseback “Patek Philippe Geneve
1839-1982-2006”, marking three important dates within the history of Patek Philippe: the founding of the company, the original opening of the Geneva Salon, and the Salon reopening celebrated by the present watch. The reference was limited to only 300 pieces and exclusively available through the Geneva boutique. The steel case combined with the limited availability make this watch of the most coveted time-only modern Patek Philippe creations. Inspired by the design of reference 565 (launched in 1938 as the first waterproof watch from the famous Geneva based watchmaker), this model manages to reinterpret the Patek Philippe historical heritage with a contemporary vibe: the case architecture is basically the same as that of ref. 565, but with an increased diameter, and the two-tone dial harkens back to the sectorial dials of the 1930s. . Fitted with the caliber 215 PS, it perfectly exemplifies the know-how and finesse the Genevan brand is best-known for. The present watch is preserved in excellent condition and is accompanied by its Patek Philippe Certificate, Attestation, commemorative medal, product literature, leather wallet and presentation box, and - a true rarity given the discretion Patek Phillippe clients usually demand - the original purchase invoice. A true modern classic for the connoisseur of fine and rare timepieces.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5565A “The Geneva Salon Edition 2006”
104.
A very fine and extremely rare platinum limited edition wristwatch with original certificate and attestation, made to celebrate the re-opening of the Patek Philippe boutique in Geneva in 2006
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2006
Reference No.
5105P
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Movement No.
978’071
Case No.
4’287’275
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 9-90, 18 jewels, stamped twice with
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
Platinum PPCo pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Width and 46mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $32,000-53,400 €27,100-45,200 Accessories Accompanied by Certificate of Origin dated May 14, 2007 and stamped by the Patek Philippe Salon in Geneva, Attestation, hang tag, commemorative medal, product literature and leather portfolio.
Reference 5105 was launched in 100 pieces in 2006 to celebrate the reopening of Patek Phillipe’s historical salon in the heart of Geneva after renovation. Acquired by Patek Phillippe in 1891, the Salons on the Rue du Rhone building was totally renovated by acclaimed architect, Jacques-Elisée Goss (1839-1921). In 1907-1908, a fifth floor was added - a project undertaken by Henri Goss, son of the original architect and the last main renovation of the historic building was finalised in 1996 with the stately Salon Napoleon III being carefully restored to reflect its original style. The reference 5105 with its streamlined Art Deco case and two tone dial is a superb tribute to Patek Philippe’s ref 492 from the 1930. The movement housed within is a vintage 9’’’90 manufactured in 1959 which was, according to legend, discovered in an old wooden chest before the watchmaking department moved to Plan-les-Ouates in 1996. Furthermore, the tooling for the manufacturing of the case were discarded so Patek Phillipe would never remake this case shape again.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5105P “The Geneva Salon Edition 2006”
105.
An early, rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1977
Reference No.
44018
Movement No.
685’208
Case No.
522’120
Model Name
222 “Jumbo”
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Vacheron Constantin bracelet, max length 175mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Vacheron Constantin deployant clasp
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confirming date of Manufacture in 1977, fitted box, service papers and 2 extra links
Vacheron Constantin’s reference 44018 -better known as the 222- was launched in 1977 for the brand’s 222th anniversary and it stands apart from the other two iconic sport leisure watches of the 1970s that are the Royal Oak and the Nautilus as it was not designed by Gerald Genta but by the young Jorg Hysek , who gave the watch a slightly more cutting edge flair. Hysek was only 24 years old when the 222 launched – incidentally, Jean-Marc Vacheron was 24 years old when he first officially founded Vacheron Constantin on September 17th 1755. Its tonneau case features a clever one-piece construction opened by a screwed in porthole type fluted bezel giving it a 120m water resistance. The 222 was available only with an integrated bracelet of the same metal as the case. Within the 222 lies the ultra-thin, automatic calibre 1121, Vacheron’s take on the renowned Jaeger LeCoultre calibre 920 used in the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. New research shows that during its 7 year production run the 222 “Jumbo” was made in less than 500 pieces in steel, around 150 in yellow gold and less than 100 in steel/yellow gold. In overall very attractive condition the present watch is part of the earliest examples known as it was made in 1977, the first year of production of the 222.
VA C H E RO N C O N S TA N T I N Ref. 44018 222 “Jumbo”
106.
A heavy, rare and attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2018
Reference No.
26331OR
Movement No.
996’199
Case No.
J52’435
Model Name
Royal Oak
Material
18K pink gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2385, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000 $32,000-64,000 €27,100-54,200 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet guarantee dated April 25, 2018, hang tag, presentation box and outer packaging.
Heavy, luxurious and incredibly sought after, reference 26331OR is the modern day iteration of the cult classic Royal Oak, clad in pink gold livery. While still available at Audemars Piguet boutiques, this model is very sought after and hard to obtain at retail. Housing an automatic chronograph movement, the case boasts a generous 41mm diameter, giving it an impressive presence on the wrist. The classic codes, such as the tapisserie dial and octagonal case are ever present, firmly echoing the Royal Oak’s design ethos. Preserved in excellent and barely worn condition, it is further accompanied by its original accessories such as the Audemars Piguet guarantee dated April 25, 2018, hang tag, presentation box and outer packaging.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 263310R Royal Oak
107.
A rare white gold and diamond-set wristwatch with aventurine dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1993
Reference No.
14813BC
scan for more info
Movement No.
387’349
Case No.
D16993
Model Name
Royal Oak
Material
18K white gold, diamonds and aventurine
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2125, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 175mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 $26,700-48,000 €22,600-40,700 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confirming sale of the present watch in 1993 to the United States.
Throughout its almost 50 years of existence, the Royal Oak has been imagined with a variety of case and dial combinations. Audemars Piguet did not take any short cuts in designing this incredibly glamorous and iconic sports luxury watch. The hefty white gold case is in absolutely superb condition with strong crisp bevels and deep hallmarks on the caseback. The bezel is delicately set with diamonds but the star of the show, so to speak, is the drop dead gorgeous aventurine dial, a form of quartz, characterized by its translucency and the presence of mineral inclusions that make the dial resemble a starry night sky, giving the watch a theatrical and sophisticated appearance.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 14813BC Royal Oak “Aventurine Dial”
108.
A rare, very attractive and extremely impressive yellow gold, diamond and sapphire-set automatic dual time wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2014
Reference No.
116758SANR
Movement No.
1’785’498
Case No.
V395537
Model Name
GMT-Master II
Material
18K yellow gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3186, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped “PJ5”
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $42,700-85,400 €36,200-72,300 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee card stamped by Hong Kong retailer “Artland Watch Co., Ltd.” and dated July 20, 2014, green document holder, product literature, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Rolex sports watches set with precious stones are amongst the rarest models created by the brand. Marrying the ultimate tier of luxury in case finishing with the most practical sports models, these pieces represent a contradiction of terms and are today as sought-after by collectors as they are scarcely produced by the brand. The present GMT-Master II SANR, referring to the black sapphire - SA(pphire) NR(noir) - setting, is distinguished by its unusual color scheme: the contrast of black sapphire with the white diamond provide an incredibly attractive final result, and - from a practical standpoint - is one of the most legible gem-set bezel configurations. The quality of Rolex’s gem-setting is simply astounding: the baguette-cut gems (and the three triangular stones at 12 o’clock) are set with surgical precision with no visible gaps between them. They are perfectly complemented by the brilliant-cut diamonds on the crown guards, lugs and bracelet, ensuring a dazzling spectacle on the wrist. The final result is nothing short of spectacular as Rolex has managed the feat of balancing the sporty ethos of the watch and its luxurious decoration. This example is offered in excellent condition, complete of all its accessories and is a true must have for the collector of outstandingly rare and unusual Rolex wristwatches.
RO L E X Ref. 116758SANR GMT-Master II “The Piano”
109.
A beautiful and very well preserved yellow gold calendar wristwatch with diamond markers, center seconds, blood stone dial, bracelet and warranty
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1996
Reference No.
18236
Movement No.
7’521’220
Case No.
T’452’515
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 175mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped 8385
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,300-42,700 €18,100-36,200 Accessories Accompanied by punched Rolex warranty, product literature and green card colder.
The variety of the Day-date model seems abyssal but always glamourous and flamboyant glamorous, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-finished designs. Since its inception in 1956, it remains one of the most surprising and diverse flagship models Rolex has ever produced. Apart from prototype models, the Day-Date has only been cased in precious metals, attesting to its glamour and prestige. The present reference 18238 features an incredibly rare and charismatic blood stone dial that is defined by its forest green hue and subtle copper flecks throughout. The material is in perfect contrast with the warm gold case and round diamond markers for a powerful aesthetic result. Offered in absolutely crisp and unspoiled condition, the watch boasts sharp finishes to the edge of the lugs and crisp hallmarks, it even displays the original case back sticker and is accompanied by its original punched warranty papers bearing country code 100 for Germany which is correct as the watch was bought in Bad Homburg.
RO L E X Ref. 18236 Day-Date “Blood Stone”
110.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN — A rare and elegant pink gold chronometer wristwatch with center seconds, original certificate, rating certificate and Geneva seal certificate
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1957
Reference No.
6111
Movement No.
509’004
Case No.
347’621
Model Name
Chronomètre Royal
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. P1008/BS, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Gold plated pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 5,000-8,000 ∑ • $5,300-8,500 €4,500-7,200 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Certificate of Origin and Guarantee stamped by Orologeria Zurletti and dated May 23, 1957, Bulletin de Marche and Geneva seal certificate.
Almost every significant watch manufacture has an iconic watch that collectors associate with the brand, such as the Reverso with Jaeger Lecoultre, or the Submariner with Rolex. Vacheron Constantin is probably best known for its Chronomètre Royal.
The Chronomètre Royal Vacheron Constantin Genève became a registered trademark on May 28th, 1907 when the first pocketwatch bearing this prestigious name was presented. Thereafter, the name was used on only those fitted with a chronometer certified movement. This is a beautiful example of a reference 6111, showing the fullness of its case proportions. The warm, silvered dial with applied and faceted hour markers combines purity and elegance that is typical of the period. Offered without reserve, it is accompanied by many of its original accessories, such as the Vacheron & Constantin Certificate of Origin from 1957, Chronomètre Royal Bulletin de Marche and additional certificate of origin, adding another layer of collectibility. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
111.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN — An elegant and rare pink gold chronograph wristwatch with twotone dial
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1947
Reference No.
4072
Movement No.
128’681
Case No.
299’939
Material
18k pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. V434, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 15,000-30,000 $16,000-32,000 €13,600-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1947.
Vacheron Constantin’s reference 4072 is sleek, elegant and definitely one of the most well balanced vintage chronographs. In production from 1938 until the late 1960s, the reference 4072 is a very diverse chronograph model. While cased most often in yellow gold, the reference was also dressed in pink gold, stainless steel, or steel and gold combinations. The elongated lugs and wide opening to the dial give the watch huge presence on the wrist. The case of the present example is very well preserved with a very crisp hallmark on the flank and the two tone dial gives extra character to this appealing example.
112.
LONGINES — A very rare stainless steel flyback chronograph wristwatch with luminous dial
Manufacturer
Longines
Year
1948
Reference No.
5415
Movement No.
7’222’792
Case No.
23’423 74
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Manual, 13ZN, 17 jewels, stamped “LXW”
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Longines Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch and its subsequent invoicing to Longines-Wittnauer Watch Co. - their agent at the time for the USA - on January 26, 1948
Mid-20th century Longines stainless steel chronograph wristwatches represent a remarkably collectible category of timepieces, both in virtue of their aesthetics, and of their technical proficiency as well. They are known both for their rugged masculine appeal and extraordinary caliber 13ZN movement. Introduced in 1936, the 13ZN was a large movement with flyback mechanism allowing the wearer to reset the watch without stopping it.
This feature was particularly useful in aviation when dead reckoning flying was required. Watches from this period were offered in cases ranging from 34mm to 38mm, and with snap on backs like the present watch or screw down cases. The present example features a very contemporary (and actually oversize for the time) case with a 37mm diameter. The entire piece is preserved in exceptional and absolutely original condition. The luminous material has severely darkened with age, amplifying both the vintage feeling and - a lucky “additional bonus” - the legibility of the watch. The deep warm patina that has developed on the surface of the dial is the perfect complement to the numerals, the final ensemble representing a superb, unrestored and extremely well preserved of the mythical “13 ZN”.
113.
BREGUET — A fine stainless steel flyback chronograph wristwatch with rare tachymeter scale bezel
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1971
Case No.
20’678
Model Name
Type XX
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 725, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Dial signed, case numbered
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,800-19,200 €10,800-16,300
Introduced in the 1950s, the Type XX chronograph was commissioned by the French government seeking a more accurate timekeeper for both their Navy and Air Force. They sought a multipurpose chronograph wristwatch with flyback function, which allowed the user to quickly reset and restart the chronograph from a single push of a button on the case. Because pilots flew by dead reckoning, they needed instantaneous timekeeping in order not to fly off course. The ‘type’ designation was not a specific model name for a particular brand, but rather a specification commissioned by the French government, which several brands provided. Breguet’s “Type XX” became the best known of these military chronograph watches. In the early 1970s Breguet submitted a proposal for a new generation of military chronographs, keeping with the original Type XX’s large Arabic numerals and flyback function but with a different case design with larger diameter and thicker lugs and a black rotating bezel for greater legibility. It is believed that only a very low number of watches were delivered the French forces, the vast majority being in sold by Breguet to civilians. The present second generation Type XX is one of the earlier examples made in 1971 but according to Breguet archives, it remained within the workshops where it was gifted to Mr. Delage on December 12, 1973. It is unclear if the recipient was related to the famous luxury and race car automobile firm of Delage. However, the racing lineage could be more than just a theory, as the watch comes with a very rare and seldom seen tachymeter bezel, giving the watch an even greater appeal.
114.
A very fine and rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch, retailed by Astrua Torino
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1941
Reference No.
130
Movement No.
862’666
Case No.
624’076
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
18k yellow gold PPco pin buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-35,000 $26,700-37,400 €22,600-31,600 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1941 and its subsequent sale on December 6, 1941.
Patek Philippe’s reference 130 is the “Calatrava” chronograph par excellence with its elongated downturned lugs and thin bezel giving the watch an impression of size. Reference 130 is one of the most storied and researched models made by Patek Philippe. It was first released in 1934 and remained in production until at least 1964.
A legacy watch from the golden age of horology, this chronograph perfectly captures the spirit of traditional watchmaking and the supremely elegant ethos of Patek Philippe. By the 1930’s, the growing demand from its clientele compelled Patek Philippe to introduce caliber 13-130, using the Valjoux chronograph cal.13. Being in production for nearly 30 years the reference 130 was produced in yellow and pink gold, as well as in stainless steel with a number of dial variations. The present example in yellow gold features an impressively well preserved case that has developed a pleasing oxidation, demonstrating that it has not been worn for quite some time. The case flank also features a crisp deep gold hallmark. The vanilla toned dial with hard enamel signature features the prestigious Astrua Torino signature. Astrua was founded in 1860 in Turin, Italy, by Vincenzo Astrua to sell and repair pendulum clocks and pocket watches. It was one of only a very select few firms privileged enough to be allowed to put their name on a Patek Philippe dial. Fresh to the auction market, the present reference 130 is only the 4th known to feature an Astrua Torino signature.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 130 “Astrua Torino”
115.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A fine, rare and well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1912
Reference No.
96
Movement No.
171’359
Case No.
620’072
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12’’, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel vintage pin buckle
Dimensions
30.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and vintage strap signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-20,000 • $10,700-21,300 €9,000-18,100 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe fitted presentation box and Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1912 and its subsequent sale on April 6, 1940.
A stalwart in Patek Philippe’s line of production, reference 96 was manufactured from 1932 until 1973. It was the first Calatrava model that Patek Philippe ever produced, ushering in a new era for both the firm and the dress wristwatch. The model featured a myriad of dial and hand variations throughout its production period. Stainless steel is a particularly rare variant, as the model was usually cased in yellow gold or pink gold. This watch is a true and well-preserved classic made, whose case metal adds to its rarity and desirability. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
116.
PATEK PHILIPPE — An attractive and well-preserved white gold wristwatch with center seconds
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1967
Reference No.
570
Movement No.
712’410
Case No.
325’592
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27 SC, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-20,000 ∆ $12,800-21,300 €10,800-18,100 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe brown leather presentation box. Further accompanied by an Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with center seconds in 1967, and its subsequent sale on June 16, 1969.
It is incredible how a simple three hand watch can have such charisma and presence. Patek Philippe’s reference 570 is a potent mix of sophistication and simplicity. A rather large watch, it has been nicknamed “Calatravone” (Italian for large Calatrava), its timeless design with large flat bezel and thick lugs made it a staple within the Patek Phillipe catalogue from 1938 till its discontinuation in 1972. Over its 33 year production run, it was offered in all precious metals and stainless steel, along with both center seconds and subsidiary seconds calibers and a multitude of dial variations The present wristwatch in white gold is in excellent overall condition and remains remarkably crisp and sharp. A superb watch in every sense it is a tribute to taste, elegance and refinement.
117.
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive white gold calendar wristwatch with center seconds, motherof-pearl dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2000
Reference No.
118209
Movement No.
38’455’324
Case No.
P’466’440
scan for more info
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K white gold and mother-of-pearl
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 • $12,800-19,200 €10,800-16,300 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex pouch
Ever glamorous, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-finished designs. Since its inception in 1956, it remains one of the most surprising and diverse flagship models Rolex has ever produced. Apart from prototype models, the Day-Date has only been cased in precious metals, attesting to its glamor and prestige. Offered without reserve, this reference 118209 is distinguished by its white gold case and yellow mother-of-pearl dial. Together, the combination is visually arresting and gives the watch an incredible appearance. To the best of our knowledge, the consignor of the present watch had upgraded his timepiece with the present dial during a servicing. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
118.
ROLEX — A very rare and extremely attractive yellow gold automatic wristwatch with center seconds, day, date, diamond-set degradé dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1975
Reference No.
1803
Movement No.
DD828681
Case No.
3’924’674
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18k Yellow gold and diamonds
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1556, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped “N”
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600
Rolex’s ‘Stella’ dials are now among the most sought-after dial variation a collector can dream of. They were produced from the 1960s to the 1990s, and are defined by their monochromatic bright colors and glossy lacquered surface. An evolution of the technique is what brought to the world the equally attractive and collectible dégradé dials, offering a similar glossy effect, but instead of a monochrome hue, the color of the dial subtly shifts from the center to the rim. In this case the deep coral of the center darkens to burgundy/oxblood by the rim. The diamondset numerals add a touch of flair and light to the already bedazzling dial. Offered in very honest condition and with a luxurious Rolex president bracelet, the present watch will grant intellectual and aesthetic enjoyment in equal parts to its new lucky owner.
119.
A highly rare and attractive yellow gold and diamond-set calendar wristwatch with blue lacquer dégradé dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1987
Reference No.
18248
Movement No.
5’081’750
Case No.
R949149
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold and diamonds
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee, product literature, presentation box, hang tag and outer packaging.
Since its introduction in 1956, the Day-Date has continued to embody the Rolex ethos of luxury and power. Myriad combinations were made possible by the variety of dials and case materials, the innumerable bezel patterns, and the different bracelet assortments. Displaying a beautiful blue dégradé dial, this Day-Date is adorned with a diamond-set bezel and markers. Lavishly cased in yellow gold, the combination between blue dial and brilliant case is astonishing. Preserved in excellent condition, the present watch is accompanied by its Rolex guarantee, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging. To the best of our knowledge, the present timepiece was upgraded with the current diamond-set bezel during a servicing at Rolex.
RO L E X Ref. 18248 Day-Date “Blue Dégradé”
120.
A fine white gold dual time automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet, additional blue dial, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2014
Reference No.
126719BLRO
Movement No.
58DN8224
Case No.
217172A6
Model Name
GMT-Master II “Pepsi”
Material
18K white gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3186, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped “6GF”
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee dated November 24, 2014, product literature, wallet, presentation box and outer packaging.
The GMT-Master is one of the most recognized and iconic timepieces ever designed. With a history stretching back over 60 years to the 1950s, it was devised as a tool watch designed in collaboration with Pan American Airlines so their pilots could keep track of both “home” and “local” times. Rolex introduced the GMT-Master, reference 6542 with fragile Bakelite bezel in 1955, and in 1959, they released the second-generation GMT-Master model with metal bezel, the reference 1675. The reference has been upgraded and modified throughout the years, until in in 2015 Rolex released the present ref. 126719BLRO with Ceramic Pepsi bezel, the first representative of the “new GMT” family which has today expanded with stainless steel, pink gold and two-tone versions. The Cerachrom bezel is the defining feature of this iteration; it boasts robustness, scratchproofness, and remarkable color fastness. The present example is offered by its original owner and accompanied not only by all of its accessories, but furthermore by a remarkably rare blue dial, thus affording its lucky owner the opportunity to choose between two different looks.
RO L E X Ref. 126719BLRO GMT-Master II “Pepsi”
121.
An extremely rare stainless steel automatic diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, gas escape valve and bracelet, made for COMEX
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1975
Reference No.
scan for more info
1665 inside caseback engraved with original serial number 6’176’899 and current serial number 4’471’342
Movement No.
D124356
Case No.
4’471’342 and issue number: 2224
Model Name
Sea-Dweller “COMEX”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster extendable bracelet stamped “585” and “93150” to the endlinks, max length (unextended) 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “S”
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed by maker, dial
“OPS” and “93150”
further signed by COMEX Estimate CHF 40,000-75,000 $42,700-80,000 €36,200-67,800 Accessories Accompanied by “The Professional Diver’s Handbook” book, picture of the original owner wearing the watch and COMEX sticker.
Consigned by the son of ex-COMEX diver, the present watch is part of a batch of approximately 300 reference 1665 Sea-Dwellers made for COMEX between 1977 and 1981. Distinguished by the boldly printed COMEX logo above the SeaDweller signature these watches were issued to working divers and featured a gas escape valve that ensured a careful, rather than explosive, egress of the Helium rich atmosphere during decompression. The working counterpart to the diver ’s later presentation watch, this example was on the wrist of rescue diver Joe Puttnam during the Stena Seaspread accident in 1981. Although heavily relied upon and regularly serviced with Rolex, the watch retains its original ‘600m’ COMEX dial and prominently engraved case back with the issue number 2224, although the mid-case, bracelet, bezel and insert are service items. Presented with a COMEX sticker and photograph of Mr Puttnam, wearing the watch and a copy of “The Professional Diver’s handbook”.
RO L E X Ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller “The Puttnam COMEX”
122.
A fine and historically interesting diver’s automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date, gas escape valve, revolving bezel, bracelet and engraved caseback
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1981
Reference No.
1665 inside caseback stamped
scan for more info
6’221’366 Movement No.
D906586
Case No.
6’221’366
Model Name
Sea-Dweller “Great White”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel extendable Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “585” and “93150” to the endlinks, max length (unextended) 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “VE” and “93150”
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by a copy of “Forward” dated February 1981 detailing the Stena Seaspread accident.
Consigned by the son of the original owner, this Rolex 1665 Sea-Dweller was presented to COMEX diver Joe Puttnam for his part in the daring rescue of two trapped North Sea divers, a feat for which he was awarded the Queens commendation for brave conduct. As documented in the accompanying copy of “Forward” dated February 1981 detailing the Stena Seaspread accident, the rescue took place in January 1981, when the diving bell from the Stena Seaspread was stricken at a depth of 400ft, its umbilical line severed, and two divers relying on emergency life support. Puttnam was the diver to reach the stranded bell and the decision to make a “through water rescue” was taken, the worlds first to be conducted at depth, with the “wet transfer” successfully conducted under extreme conditions of icy cold, and strong currents. The present watch was engraved and presented to Mr Puttnam to commemorate the rescue and his Royal commendation, although Joe Puttnam Junior notes with amusement a common misspelling of the family name on the case back. Continuing to use his COMEX branded issue watch for work, the present watch has been well cared for in the intervening years, retaining its original MK III dial, with beautifully patinated Tritium lume, a thick, crisp case that shows no sign of heavy wear or polishing and its dedication remains deeply engraved for posterity.
RO L E X Ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller “The Puttnam Great White”
123.
A rare, extremely attractive and historically interesting stainless steel military diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, fixed spring bar and special military markings, made for the British Royal Army
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1967
Reference No.
ST 165.024
Movement No.
24’719’912
Case No.
W10/6645 – 99 – 923 –
scan for more info
7697 – A/030/67 Model Name
Seamaster 300 “Military”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 552, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
NATO
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed, case back further engraved “W10/6645-99 – 923 – 7697- A/030/67”
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $32,000-53,400 €27,100-45,200 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confirming its date of production on April 3, 1967 and delivery to the British Army, additional pouch.
Officially introduced to the public in 1957, the Seamaster 300 was part of Omega’s “Professional” line of watches. A very small batch was made for military use from 1967 until approximately 1970, featuring several tweaks separating them from their regular counterparts.
Their cases, with distinctive curved and beveled lugs, were delivered with fixed spring bars. Dials featured an encircled “T” designation, signifying the use of tritium for the luminous hour markers and hands. The broad, sword-shaped hour and minute hands, as well as the angular sweep seconds hand, were also specially designed. The crown was screw down as opposed to the snap down design as found on production versions. Their case backs were engraved by the British Ministry of Defense with the military branch code, issue number, NATO code and year of issue. Extremely rare, these military examples were often used in combat and deployed to the military, with only few examples surviving. The present Omega Seamaster ref. ST 165.024 in its “mil-spec” configuration is stamped “W10” on the case back indicating that it was delivered to the British Royal Army, a rare trait in its own respect as most examples known were delivered to the British Royal Navy stamped “0552”. The present example is certainly a very rare timepiece, featuring case back engravings that confirm the originality of the watch. On the first line the “broad arrow” insignia means that the watch was issued to the British military. “W10” signifies that the watch was issued to the British Royal Army, “6645” signifies the present object to be a time measuring instrument, “99” is the NATO code for the UK, “923-7697” on the third line is the NATO code to signify the present watch as a diver’s watch and lastly “A/030” is the individual number issued and “67” confirms that the watch was deployed in 1967.
OMEGA Ref. ST 165.024 Seamaster 300 “Military”
124.
ROLEX — An extremely rare, attractive and unusual yellow gold automatic dual time wristwatch with center seconds, date, purple tropical dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1974
Reference No.
1675
Movement No.
D561577
Case No.
3’672’913
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
18K yellow gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold bark-finished Rolex President bracelet, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold bark-finished Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-30,000 $16,000-32,000 €13,600-27,100
Today, Rolex is renowned for some of the most iconic and treasured “tool watches” of the 20th century with models such as the Submariner, Daytona, and GMT-Master. First released in 1954, the GMT-Master reference 6542 was designed for pilots, and travellers to use while traversing the globe. With the rise of international travel in the 1940s and 1950s, Rolex and Pan American Airlines realised the need for a timepiece that would allow pilots to keep track of dual time zone while traveling, and developed an ingenious design with Bakelite bezel with 24-hour luminous numerals, and secondary GMT hour hand on the dial.
The reference 6542 was replaced in 1959 with the introduction of the GMT-Master reference 1675, now sporting a metal bezel replacing the fragile Bakelite bezel, and crown guards for added protection. The reference 1675 was in production until approximately 1980, with the majority produced in stainless steel. Like the ref. 6542 before it, luxurious 18 karat gold examples of the ref. 1675 were produced in exceedingly small quantities. The present watch is without a doubt one of the most striking examples of this restricted gold production to ever resurface. It is well known that sometimes the paint used on watch dials changes color over time, giving rise to what is today known as a “tropical” dial. Brown tropical dials are well known from Rolex to appear on Daytona timepieces, with hues ranging from dark chocolate to terra di siena bruciata. On gold GMTs, some dials are known to sport a similar effect, with areas turning violet. The present example, however, sports an incredible even, dialwide, iridescent purple/indigo/violet color - ranking this watch as one of the most appealing and collectible tropical gold 1675 to ever appear on the market. The unusual and highly collectible bark-finished President bracelet is a more than deserved touch of additional finesse and collectability to this mind-blowing timepiece.
125.
ROLEX — A fine and rare stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date, “Red Sub” dial, bracelet, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1973
Reference No.
1680
Movement No.
D639923
Case No.
3’816’198
Model Name
Submariner “Red Sub”
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “580” and “93150”, max length (extended) 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel extendable Rolex clasp stamped
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
“K11” and “93150”
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex undated punched Guarantee stamped by Sao Paulo retailer “Matisse Joalheiros”, Rolex sticker, hang tag, calendar card for the years 1973/74, product literature, green document holder, fitted presentation box and outer packaging
The Rolex Submariner has become such an icon that not only can it be considered the benchmark for all future diving watches, but it has also spawned its own scholarly following devoted to every nuance and variation from its first appearance in the Rolex catalogue in 1954 until the present day. The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 was launched in 1967 and was the
first Submariner model fitted with a date function (generating a fiery debate about date windows that continues to burn brightly in the watch community). Of the different iterations of “Red Sub” dials established by the collecting community, this 3.8M serial example features a Mark VI dial. Red Sub dials can be divided in six generations (or “Mark”) and two groups. Earlier models are distinguished by the “meters first” depth rating (Mk I to Mk III) and later models (Mk IV to VI) by the “feet first” depth rating. MKVI dials are the last “Red Sub” dials to have been made - before Rolex moved on to fully white graphics - and can be found on serial numbers before 3M but not later than 4M, making this 3.8M examples one of the last one produced. MKVI dials are easily recognised by the fact that among the “feet first” dials, they are the only ones featuring closed 6s in the depth rating. The condition of the dial is superb, with the black matte finishing perfectly intact, and the luminous hour markers also perfectly preserved, displaying the characteristic waffle texture and a charming ivory hue. The “Red Sub”, offered complete of all its original accessories, is the ideal contender for a one watch collection – subtle enough not to draw attention, but with a flash of flair thanks to the red “Submariner” print to add interest.
126.
A very rare and extremely attractive pink gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases and bracelet, part of a 120 pieces limited edition made to commemorate Audemars Piguet’s 120th anniversary
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1995
Reference No.
25810OR
scan for more info
Movement No.
438’021
Case No.
D68807
Model Name
Royak Oak Quantieme
Material
18K pink gold
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Audemars Piguet bracelet,
Perpetuel Automatique
max length 190mm Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold concealed Audemars Piguet
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
deployant clasp
Estimate CHF 60,000-140,000 $64,000-149,000 €54,200-127,000 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1995 with rotor bearing the number “120” as part of a 120 pieces limited edition for the 120th anniversary of Audemars Piguet
Watchmaking companies have a peculiarity when compared to other businesses: many of the household names in watchmaking have a history that stretches back decades or even centuries. This wealth of history and heritage plays an important part in shaping the modern perception of the brand: the longer the heritage, the higher the prestige and, generally speaking, the more evolved and refined the aesthetic and
technical canons (the famous “identity”) of the brand. This interaction helps to understand why watchmaking brands, especially starting from the late 1980s/early 1990s, are used to celebrating important milestones with incredibly attractive and, usually, equally rare timepieces, as exemplified by the present lot. As proudly stated on the dial, this perpetual calendar Royal Oak celebrates the 120th anniversary (1875-1995) of the company and as expected Audemars Piguet created something that goes beyond special for this commemoration. The full rose gold case is already impressive beyond words, conveying a sense of warmth, gravitas, and refined opulence. The dial compounds to this effect thanks to its ineffable twotone salmon finish: the main surface presents a matte finish, but the subsidiary counter feature instead a metallic finish, granting movement and flair to the ensemble. The attention to details found on Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar dials is astounding. Most notably, the present dial features a strongly tri-dimensional architecture, with recessed subsidiary dials. In fact, the month/leap year cycle dial features a double recess in order to put on two physically different plains the bissextile cycle and the month indication. A reminder that we are in the presence of an anniversary piece is subtly hidden into the movement as well as being openly declared on the dial. The calibre features a gold-rimmed, handengraved, skeletonized rotor, whose curvy design might appear abstract at first glance, but in a matter of seconds one realises it represents in fact the number of years celebrated: 120, the same as the total number of pieces produced. The present example is offered in exceptionally well preserved condition. It was originally sold in 1995 in the United States.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 258100R Royal Oak “Pink on Pink”
127.
A highly unusual and extremely rare limited edition platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, fitted box and guarantee
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
2008
Reference No.
43045
Movement No.
862’098
Case No.
1’134’873, caseback further
scan for more info
stamped with limited edition N°7 Model Name
American 1921
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1120, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum pin buckle signed Vacheron Constantin
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $32,000-53,400 €27,100-45,200 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Certificate of Authenticity, Certificate of Origin, Geneva Seal certificate, product literature, fitted watch winder and cleaning cloth.
Celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 is the proof that unusual bold designs can remain classic and timeless. Contrary to popular belief, this watch is not a driver’s watch but can be considered a “montre à tact” in its literal form as the wearer can clearly see the time thanks to the rotated dial without turning his/her wrist, thus remaining “tactful”. Originally made for the American market
in 1919 (crown on the top left of the case) and in 1921 (crown on the top right of the case) the American 1921 was made in 2008, in Vacheron Constantin’s “Historiques” collection as a time only piece which became an instant success with waiting lists of over a year. The same year, Vacheron Constantin released an über exclusive perpetual calendar version in platinum housing the automatic cal 1120. Limited to 20 pieces, this model was available only in the Vacheron Constantin boutiques of Geneva, Moscow, Hong Kong and Shanghai. Contrary to the original model, the dial of the present lot is not slanted but straight for legibility of all the indications. The watch maintains its Art Deco essence but is resolutely a 21st century timepiece. The dial is a fabulous gem of design with a cavalcade of subtle graphic details adding up to a spectacular result. The subdials evenly set up in the centre feature each a lovely wavelike guilloche pattern, the touch of color from the red leap year indicator and the blue lapis lazuli background on a white moonphase are symbols of exquisite elegance and style. The movement giving life to this elusive piece is the Vacheron Constantin ultra slim calibre 1120. Launched in 1968 it measures a mere 2.45 in thickness making it one of the world’s thinnest automatic movements. The particular version found in this lot features a Gyromax balance and is stamped with the prestigious Geneva seal, attesting of the high quality and superlative finish of the movement. The present Vacheron Constantin American 1921 is both edgy and sophisticated; it bears the lucky number 7.
VA C H E RO N C O N S TA N T I N Ref. 43045 American 1921 “Boutique Edition”
128.
A highly rare and attractive platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with original certificate, additional case back and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1998
Reference No.
3970E
Movement No.
3’045’653
Case No.
4’010’763
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 70,000-100,000 $74,700-107,000 €63,300-90,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated February 1998 and stamped Beyer Chronometrie, additional numbered case back, setting pin, presentation box and outer packaging.
First released in 1986 and replacing reference 2499, the Patek Philippe reference 3970 presents similar aesthetics to its predecessor such as its pump-style pushers and down turned stepped lugs. However, the reference 3970 featured certain upgrades such as the new movement replacing its former Valjoux based caliber now powered by a heavily modified Lemania 2310 based cal. CH 27-70 Q. Additionally, the dial is presented with two additional indications including leap years and an additional 24-hour hand. The present example, displaying a black dial with diamond indexes, is encased in platinum and assigned the referenced 3970E (“E” – étanche meaning waterproof). It is offered in excellent condition with its Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated February 1998 and stamped Beyer Chronometrie, additional numbered case back, setting pin, presentation box and outer packaging.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3970E
129.
An extremely rare, attractive and superbly well-preserved white gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, grey dial and integrated bracelet
Since the introduction of the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, Patek Philippe is regarded as one of the best (and, serially, the first) to execute this complication. Patek Philippe serially produced perpetual calendar models (such as ref 1526 and 2497, or chronograph reference 1518 and 2499) were exclusively manual. Introduced in 1962, the ref. 3448 was the firm’s first self-winding perpetual calendar wristwatch. Aesthetically somewhat futuristic - with a case defined by pure lines and sharp edges, so much so that Italian collectors jokingly and lovingly dubbed it “Padellone”, “Large Frying Pan” - it enormously differed from its predecessors. Inside it, beats one of the most refined Patek Philippe creations: the perpetual calendar version of automatic movement 27460AT, which is itself the final, most refined iteration of cal. 12-600 AT, considered one of the, if not outright THE, best automatic movement ever developed. This technical supremacy combined with the useful complication and the modern, understated but powerful aesthetics make the present watch one of the most wearable important vintage models of the brand. It is known in four main series (though other out of series variation such as the “upside down date ring” variation are known): - The first series features small calendar ring, indexes closer to the center of the dial and engraved/enamelled minute divisions - The second series introduces beady minute divisions - The third series maintains the beady divisions but introduces the large numerals for the date rings and indexes closer to the outer edge of the dial -The fourth series - exemplified by the present timepiece features printed minuted divisions.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3448/17 “The Pearl Grey Padellone”
129.
An extremely rare, attractive and superbly well-preserved white gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, grey dial and integrated bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1977
Reference No.
3448/17
Movement No.
1’119’494
Case No.
332’612
scan for more info
Model Name
“Padellone”
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 27-460 Q, 37 jewels, stamped twice
Bracelet/Strap
Integrated 18K white gold Patek Philippe bracelet,
with the Geneva Seal max length 200mm Clasp/Buckle
Patek Philippe 18K white gold folding buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 200,000-400,000 $213,000-427,000 €181,000-362,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1977 and its subsequent sale on December 30, 1980 with bracelet in white gold.
With an estimated total production of 586 examples, it is indeed a very rare bird. Mostly encased in yellow gold (around 450 examples estimated) the white gold version is much scarcer than that. While the total white gold output is estimated at about 130 pieces, only about 15 pieces are known to the market with bracelet. Of these watches, the present example is the only one known bearing reference -17, identifying this bracelet style. Other known styles are: -1, -2, -3, -13 and -300. Beyond its rarity, the condition of this watch is as well remarkable: the case is in virtually “as new” condition, with sharp edges and hardly any surface mark. The grey dial as well is absolutely unrestored an in excellent condition. It is extremely rare to find the dial in this colour. Furthermore, the watch appeared at public sales in 1989 and then in 2002, before disappearing from the market. Beyond the excitement of such a momentous rediscovery, the fact that we have photographic documentation of the watch since such a long time ago, allows us to confirm that it has always been in the present configuration, and even in the same superb condition. Even the fact that the bracelet features a remarkably large 200mm overall length points to the fact that it was never adjusted, and thus the watch was never subject to daily wear. Phillips is proud to have been entrusted this exciting rediscovery which would deserve a spotlight in any important timepiece collection.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3448/17 “The Pearl Grey Padellone”
130.
A very fine, rare and important yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, mineral crystal and German calendar
The present fourth series 2499 represents the very end of the production of the model, having been executed in 1985 - the year of the discontinuation of the series. With a case in superb condition, and a dial equally attractive - absolutely unrestored and without any loss or deterioration to the graphics - the present specimen is truly an opportunity not to be missed. The extremely few and minor hints of oxidation present on the dial are a subtle reminder of the vintage character of this treasured timepiece. Not only this watch impresses with its condition, but with its rarity as well: it is one of only 6 fourth series 2499 to bear the exotic German calendar. Last appeared on the market more than 30 years ago (in October 1990), it is our pride and pleasure to bring back to the public this gem.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2499/100
130.
A very fine, rare and important yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, mineral crystal and German calendar
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1985
Reference No.
2499/100
scan for more info
Movement No.
869’293
Case No.
2’792’149
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels, stamped twice
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 300,000-600,000 $320,000-640,000 €271,000-542,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1985 and its subsequent sale on February 28, 1985.
The final iteration of reference 2499 features a relatively short production run of 8 years from 1978 to 1985. However, the know-how accumulated of the previous three decades enormously improved the productive process. As a result, notwithstanding its short production time, 4th series 2499 are about as numerous as third series pieces (which were in production for about 2 decades). They are exclusively known in yellow gold, even though it is speculated that a small amount was made in pink gold. The one certainty is that a Trucchi double signed third series pink gold example was upgraded into a fourth series via bezel change by Patek Philippe. While not “properly” a fourth series examples, that timepiece, sold in this saleroom in 2019, sports what architecturally is a fourth series case. While the dial layout remains generally the same as the one of third series watches, the difference with its earlier siblings resides in the crystal: the plastic crystal used so far is abandoned in favour of a modern mineral scratch-proof alternative. Such upgrade necessitate a minor adjustment of the bezel, which is now a bit higher. What would seem a small tweak has in fact important practical ramifications if one is to wear the watch on a regular basis.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2499/100
Session two 9 May 2021, 2pm Lots 131–236
131.
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive stainless steel dual time wristwatch with date, ceramic bezel, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2020
Reference No.
126710BLRO
Case No.
0X045362
Model Name
GMT-Master II “Pepsi”
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3285, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
Automatic, cal. 3285, 31 jewels
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,800 €7,200-10,800 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated January 1, 2020, hang tag, wallet, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
The undisputed star of Baselworld 2018 was Rolex’s new GMTMaster II. Publicly acclaimed, the watch instantaneously became a must have and immediately generated a waiting list at Rolex retailers. The iconic model, initially made for pilots to simultaneously keep track of two time zones was ready for a renewal. The new reference 126710BLRO features an extremely attractive Jubilee bracelet, a specificity that nods to the original GMT model which was in fact the only sports watch offered by the brand with this bracelet – others would typically come with an Oyster bracelet. Preserved in excellent condition, the present timepiece is offered with its original accessories.
132.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A fine and rare stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date and rubber strap
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2012
Reference No.
5065A
Movement No.
5’644’134
Case No.
4’046’674
Model Name
Aquanaut
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 SC, 29 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
scan for more info
stamped with the Patek Philippe seal Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 O $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 2012 and its subsequent sale on January 14, 2013.
Reminiscent of the Nautilus, the present Aquanaut is fitted with a beautiful octagonal shaped bezel with alternating brushed and satin finish. The embossed texture of the guilloché dial runs over the watch and continues its way all throughout the strap, giving the watch its fresh, sporty look that it is so famous for, with a touch of eccentricity in the colour choice of the rubber. One gets lost in the depth of its dial thanks to the thickness of the applied luminous material on the hour marks and on the white gold hands.
Furthermore, the lucky owner of this watch will have the pleasure of peeking through its sapphire display case back, allowing him or her to discover the intricacy and the beautiful finish of its movement. Indeed, it is one of a kind. Although the Aquanaut reference 5065 was discontinued in 2007, the Extract from the Archives of the present watch defies the ages and confirms that it was manufactured in 2012. Not only produced six years after the official discontinuation of the reference, the present model is also fitted with a new in-house automatic calibre 324 SC, which was strictly reserved for the Aquanaut reference 5165, its successor, and the Nautilus reference 5711. It distinguishes itself once more from its peers with a Patek Philippe seal, hallmark of excellence, stamped on its movement, replacing the Poinçon de Genève which used to be applied on any creation pre-2009. Could this watch be an overlook by the renowned manufacture? Most probably not, but knowing the Swiss rigor and attention to details of Patek Philippe, we can only assume that the present watch was a special order for one of Patek Philippe’s most distinguished collectors. To our knowledge, it is the only known Aquanaut reference 5065A bearing a calibre 324 SC. Preserved in good condition, the opportunity to own this very rare and original Aquanaut is one not to be missed.
133.
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with “flat four” bezel, guarantee, presentation box and press kit
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2003
Reference No.
16610LV
Case No.
Y965708
Model Name
Submariner “Flat Four Kermit”
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet ref 93250, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,700-16,000 €9,000-13,600 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee, anchor, plastic bezel protector, product literature, wallet, calendar, presentation box, outer packaging and original 16610LV launch press kit
In a bold move to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the iconic Submariner in 2003, Rolex presented the reference 16610LV with an original and striking green bezel.
The new reference featured a black “maxi-dial”, referring to the large luminescent hour markers and an all new bezel color. It was this charismatic green bezel or “Lunette Verte” that added a new, eye-catching dimension. Nicknamed the “Kermit” by enthusiasts after the much-loved Sesame Street celebrity frog puppet, the green color was a logical choice for this model as green is the official color for Rolex. This model became an instant favorite amongst collectors and the earliest versions of the “Kermit”, like the present wristwatch, became known as the “Flat 4” due to the flat top of the “40” numeral of the bezel. Models with this font were produced for about just one year before Rolex switched to a different font as well as a slightly different color for the bezel, making these earlier examples highly sought after. The present example is preserved in excellent condition and retains all original factory specifications, it is furthermore offered with its original accessories such as guarantee, wallet, calendar card, anchor, product literature, presentation box and original press kit of launch.
134.
ROLEX — A rare and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with guarantee, hang tag and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2017
Reference No.
116518LN
Movement No.
9P7415E4
Case No.
8148M051
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated August 11, 2017, product literature, wallet, presentation box and outer packaging.
Cased in yellow gold, this reference 116518LN displays black accents and a ceramic bezel, giving the watch a very striking appearance. The model is most notably fitted with Rolex’s in-house movement, the caliber 4130, which was an upgrade from the previous Zenith-based chronograph movement. It furthermore features a sporty Oysterflex rubber strap, which was both developed and patented by Rolex. While still in production, it is incredibly difficult to obtain this model at the Rolex boutique. It is complete with its Rolex guarantee stamped August 11, 2017, hang tag, wallet, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging. It is furthermore preserved in excellent and unpolished condition.
135.
A fine and attractive white gold pilot’s dual-time wristwatch with date, day and night indicator, certificate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2017
Reference No.
5524G
Movement No.
7’044’548
Case No.
6’168’723
scan for more info
Model Name
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 S C FUS, 29 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
stamped with the Patek Philippe seal Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-35,000 O $26,700-37,400 €22,600-31,600 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated April 1, 2017, wooden presentation box, 18K white gold setting pin, hang tag, leather envelop with production literature and outer packaging.
Patek Philippe has always had strong ties to air traveling. One can go all the way back to the 1930s with the development of the first multiple time-zone wristwatch prototype. Paying tribute to the courageous pioneers of aeronautics, Patek Philippe released the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time watch reference 5524 at Baselworld in 2015. The present timepiece
recalls milestones in aviation, and demonstrates of the familyowned Geneva manufacture’s rich contribution to the conquest of the sky. Offering two time-zones, the present watch features two distinct hour hands, respectively skeletonized for home-time and full with luminous material for local-time. Two large time correctors can be found at the 8 and 10 o’clock positions to immediately adapt the local-time. In a single push, the beholder of this magnificent timepiece can fly “into” time when eastbound and “away” from it when westbound. A function that is especially useful when air travelling around the globe. Thanks to its two additional apertures at the 9 and 3 o’clock positions indicating local and home AM/PM, and its subsidiary dial at 6 O’clock showing the date, reading the time has never been so easy. Furthermore, the present lot features a large white gold case of 42mm diameter with a dark navy blue matte dial contrasting with oversized Superluminova numerals; ideal features for a tool watch to enhance its legibility, even at night. The sapphire-crystal display case back reveals beautiful details such as the chamfered bridges with Geneva striping, and the circular-grained gold rotor with an engraved Calatrava cross, contrasting with the bright shimmering red-coloured jewels. The modern aesthetic of the reference 5524 effortlessly resonates with today’s taste. Its steady yet elegant size follows the functionality of the timepiece and becomes the perfect companion piece for any traveller on the go.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5524G Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
136.
A highly rare and attractive yellow gold automatic chronograph wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2001
Reference No.
25721BA
Movement No.
495’353
Case No.
E31611 further stamped 145
Model Name
Royal Oak Offshore
Material
18K yellow gold
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Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2226, 54 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-70,000 $42,700-74,700 €36,200-63,300 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificat d’Authenticité confirming production of the present watch in 2001.
The Royal Oak was already disruptive in 1972 when it was launched but in the early 1990s, Audemars Piguet tasked its in-house designer Emmanuel Gueit to push the boundaries and reinvent the classic Royal Oak and infuse it with new life and power. The result was presented in 1993: the Royal Oak Offshore, a model whose design and attitude were so rambunctious that it caused controversy even within Audemars Piguet! The Royal Oak Offshore was shortly thereafter nicknamed “The Beast” due to what was, at the time, its astonishing 42mm case size. The Offshore was revolutionary, and arguably, it established the trend for large-sized watches, becoming the norm in today’s modern production watches. By keeping the signature case/bezel shape and tappisserie dial, Gueit nevertheless managed to create a timepiece that would inspire sports watches that would follow. The present example of “The Beast” is without a doubt a masterpiece of lavish suaveness. Its yellow gold case and bracelet make up for a potent formulae merged with the royal blue dial. Exclusive, opulent and brazen the present Offshore is bears the unapologetic philosophy in which the original Beast was designed.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 25721BA Offshore “E Series”
137.
A highly rare, extremely attractive and virtually “new old stock” stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “tropical” registers, bracelet, guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1995
Reference No.
16520
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Case No.
S988786
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet,
Reference 16520 was Rolex’s first Daytona to house an automatic movement. At the time of launch in 1988, it quickly became a cult classic and garnered an immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers. Today, the Zenith Daytona has become an even more collectible watch due to its rarity, good looks and importance within the history of Rolex.
“Darth Vader”
max length 190mm Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $42,700-85,400 €36,200-72,300 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated April 12, 1995, product literature, hang tag, presentation box and outer packaging.
The degree of desirability of the “Zenith Daytona” varies with the different dial variations that exist, and some iterations - such as the “Floating” ones, or the porcelain dials, or the “Four Liners” - have come to be recognized as supremely collectible timepieces. The most popular being the so called “tropical” dial where the registers have turned darker in color, the most coveted and rarest being by far the “Darth Vader” like the present example that features subsidiary dials with dark “espresso-like” hue earning its nickname inspired by the dark Sith lord. Extremely rare as these imperfections are natural occurrences, most examples feature an non uniform change in hue, making examples that are uniformed extremely desirable and scarce. The present example is distinguished by its virtually “new old stock” condition, and is offered with its punched guarantee papers, box, and calendar card. It even still features the green sticker on the caseback - the extreme rarity and superlative condition of the present “Dark Vader” make it a must have for the Daytona collector.
RO L E X Ref. 16520 Cosmograph Daytona “The Darth Vader”
138.
A highly rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Semi-Panna” dial, bracelet, presentation box and outer packaging
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2000
Reference No.
116520
Movement No.
C0’025’853
Case No.
P’740’048
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
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Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,300-42,700 €18,100-36,200 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched Guarantee, product literature, outer packaging and fitted presentation box. Further accompanied by a copy of Daytona Self-Winding, by Franca and Guido Mondani. Literature This exact example, bearing the serial number P’740’048, is illustrated in Franca and Guido Mondani’s Daytona Self-Winding, pp. 186-187.
First introduced in the early 1960s via the ref. 6239, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona was born amidst the golden era for chronograph timepieces inspired by the world of automobile racing. Launched in 2000, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116520 was the firm’s first to feature an in-house self-winding chronograph cal. 4130, replacing its former ref. 16520 powered by the Zenith El Primero cal. 4030. The new model featured subtle changes to the case and dial such as polished and slender lugs and a subtle switch of the hour registers and seconds register. Examples fitted with a white dial manufactured between 2000 – 2002 often have a common trait of naturally developing a “cream dial” due to the nature of its material. The present example bearing a P serial belongs to the first series of the reference manufactured, in excellent overall condition the timepiece features a Mark I dial and is starting to showcase a slight and pleasant variation of color change on the dial to cream. Extremely sought after in today’s market, this present example of an early Rolex ref. 116520 with its original Rolex punched Guarantee is a must have for any true Rolex collector.
RO L E X Ref. 116520 Cosmograph Daytona “The Semi-Panna”
139.
An attractive and unusual limited edition stainless steel wristwatch with “regulator”style indication
Manufacturer
Louis Erard x Vianney Halter
Year
2020
Reference No.
85237AA51.BVA35
Model Name
Excellence Le Regulateur
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, Sellita SW266-1,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
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25 jewels Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Louis Erard pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 2,000-4,000 • $2,100-4,300 €1,800-3,600 Accessories Accompanied by certificate of Authenticity, hang tag and fitted box
The present watch sees the unlikely merge of Louis Erard, a brand celebrating its 90th anniversary today and known for its classical watches and Vianney Halter, the enfant terrible of watchmaking who took the world by storm in 1998 with his mind boggling perpetual calendar Antiqua – a steampunk UFO straight out of the whirlwinding imagination of Jules Verne or H.G. Wells- that modified our perception of fine watchmaking.
Halter, as an independent artisan creates only a handful of watches per year, pieces that are already spoken for before completion. The amount of time, energy, skill and work put in each piece means that they come with a high price tag. Starting from the Antiqua and following up with the Classic and Trio, Halter (with his then design partner Barnes) developed a personal and immediately recognizable design language. A design language that he has managed to perfectly apply to the Louis Erard Regulator. The present model, limited to 178 piece was launched in 2020 and sold out within hours, demonstrating the hunger of collectors for this type of collaboration. The dial has a two level architecture with a succession of polished and sand blasted surface finishes. The typography of the numerals as well as the hands are typical Halter and can be found in his own pieces. An extra nod to the Halter design are the notches on the crown resembling the rivet studded crowns of the Antiqua, Classic and Trio. A surprising modern take on the classic regulator design, the present Louis Erard X Vianney Halter offers an extraordinary opportunity of owning a representative of his remarkable creative genius at a very reasonable price point. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
L O U I S E R A R D X V I A N N E Y H A LT E R Excellence Le Regulateur
140.
A very fine and extremely early platinum wristwatch with power reserve indication, Guarantee and box, most probably the very first example of the model, bearing no. 001
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2005
Case No.
CS-001
Model Name
Chronomètre Souverain
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1304, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
F.P. Journe platinum deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe Guarantee card stamped by Montre Journe Japon K.K. and dated December 24, 2005, fitted wooden presentation box and outer packaging
François-Paul Journe is a modern watchmaker who brings technical skill and innovation to wristwatches that are classically designed but have a contemporary aesthetic. F.P. Journe, his company, was established in 1999, and follows the motto Invenit et Fecit ([He] invented and realized it), a clear indication that the brand’s watches are fully designed and produced in house. With the collection “Souverain”, François Paul Journe presented his first wristwatch with a central time display. Offered in several variations, the principle objective of these timepieces, as the name of the collection implies, is chronometric precision. Even though its design is a tribute to traditional chronometers, it has been implemented in a subtly contemporary manner with its large hour and minute hands, and power reserve and seconds indications placed in an original manner at 3 o’clock and 7 to 8 o’clock respectively. The present timepiece holds a particularly relevant historical importance, as it is most probably the very first Chronomètre Souverain watch ever made. All these timepieces bear a serial number composed by the code CS (for Chronomètre Souverain) and then a 3 digit number. The present watch bears in fact serial number CS-001. Assuming no CS-000 watch was made - an unlikely occurrence, as F.P. Journe editions usually start with number 1, a habit present since the famous “Souscription” series - this means that in fact the present watch is the very first Chronomètre Souverain to leave F.P. Journe’s workshop.
WATC F. P.HJ O MU AR KN ER E Chronomètre Souverain “The No. 001” Ref.
141
An extremely rare, fine and unusual platinum dual-time wristwatch with resonating double escapement, 12 and 24 hours subdials, power reserve, Guarantee card and box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
Circa 2020
Case No.
283-RT
Model Name
Chronomètre à Resonance
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1499.3, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
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Clasp/Buckle
Platinum F. P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
40.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-120,000 $85,400-128,000 €72,300-108,000 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe Guarantee card stamped by “Montres Journe New York” and “Boutique F.P. Journe Miami” and dated February 7, 2020, USB instruction manual, card holder, wooden presentation box and outer packaging
In 2000, F.P. Journe took the horological world by surprise with the introduction of the first ever wristwatch incorporating two resonating escapements. The concept of resonance as a regulating technique has been sporadically studied and employed throughout watchmaking, but proved intriguing enough to have A.L. Breguet as one of its adepts, having indeed realized a chronomètre à resonance which in fact inspired the general movement architecture of F.P. Journe Resonance
pieces. Simplistically summarised, the idea behind a resonance timepiece is that two independent escapements placed in close proximity influence and synchronise with one another, the synced system being more resilient to disturbances than a single escapement. Resonance timepieces are now a cornerstone of F.P. Journe production, and in 2020 a new model - incorporating a remontoire d’egalite for each escapement and a single barrel differential system for energy distribution - was released. While the F.P. Journe community welcomed with enthusiasm the new model, hardcore Journe collectors were also saddened to see the “original” Resonance discontinued. In fact, the manufacturer itself recognized the importance of its first model and for the last year of production exclusively, in 2019, a “final” edition - represented by the present piece - was released. The model returned to the original “dual analog dial” design that was featured on the first examples from the early 2000s, before being abandoned in favour of a mixed digital/ analog display employing a disc for the left subsidiary dial. While the 2000 design incorporated identical 12-hour subdials, the 2019 design differentiated the two indications: on the left a 24-hour dial (ideal to track the “home time” without incurring in AM/PM uncertainty) and a “local time” standard 12-hour dial on the right, both of them featuring an enormously attractive and subtle blue hue for the graphics. The present timepiece is offered in superb condition and is “full set”.
F. P. J O U R N E Chronomètre à Resonance “RTA”
142.
A unique and attractive platinum wristwatch with tourbillon, Remontoire d’Égalité, warranty and presentation box
The genesis of the Harry Winston Opus Series is a story rarely seen in modern horology: that of a major brand putting forward the watchmaker who built the movement. More often than not large brands boast movements and complications that were made for them by third parties but the name of the latter are rarely disclosed. During his time as CEO of Harry Winston in the early 2000s, Max Büsser decided to team up with young independent watchmakers and create a watch that would bear the genetic codes of both Harry Winston and the watchmaker and to have the name of the watchmaker proudly displayed on the watch! This project gifted to the world some of the most unusual, fascinating and complex timepieces to ever see the light of day.
H A R RY W I N S TO N & F. P. J O U R N E Opus One “Turquoise Tourbillon”
142.
A unique and attractive platinum wristwatch with tourbillon, Remontoire d’Égalité, warranty and presentation box
Manufacturer
Harry Winston & F. P. Journe
Year
2001
Reference No.
200/MTFPJ38P
Case No.
004527
Model Name
Opus One
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1498, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
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Clasp/Buckle
18k white gold Harry Winston deployant clasp
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement jointly signed F.P Journe and Harry Winston
Estimate CHF 150,000-300,000 ∑ $160,000-320,000 €136,000-271,000 Accessories Accompanied by Harry Winston International Warranty, product literature, fitted box and outer packaging
The very first Opus project was launched in 2001 with an up and coming watchmaker whose watches 20 years later would be competing with centuries old behemoth brands in the auction room: François-Paul Journe. Journe had just recently launched his brand when Büsser invited him to work together on the Opus project. The result was not one but three timepieces housing Journe’s signature creations: a time only with large date and power reserve display, the Chronomètre à Resonance and the present Tourbillon with Remontoire d’Égalité. The Tourbillon was made in only 6 unique pieces. -
Blue dial set with 118 diamonds Black dial set with 118 diamonds Pink Silver dial Grey dial Turquoise dial like the present example
Journe’s take on the tourbillon is absolutely ingenious with the addition of a constant force device used to provide an equal amount of energy disregarding the winding level of the mainspring, thus resulting in greater accuracy and amplitude. The present Opus 1 Tourbillon is a must have for any collector thanks to its excellent state of preservation, its ultimate rarity, its historical relevance and its stunning beauty.
H A R RY W I N S TO N & F. P. J O U R N E Opus One “Turquoise Tourbillon”
143.
A very fine and extremely unusual pink gold wristwatch with jump hours, digital minutes, linear triple calendar and moon phases
Manufacturer
De Bethune
Year
Circa 2010
Reference No.
DBDR S5
Case No.
013
Material
18K pink gold
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Calibre
Manual, cal. DB 2044, 32 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold De Bethune buckle
Dimensions
42mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600
Independent watchmaker De Bethune is renowned for its daring aesthetics combined with high-end traditional watchmaking techniques. The present piece perfectly exemplifies this vocation: the time is indicated in digital fashion, with the minutes displayed on a disc and a window for the jump hours. The calendar follow suit, adopting a linear display at 12. The final result is a striking timepiece, the simplicity of its dial betraying the complexity of the movement. In a final “touch of class”, the moon phases aperture is displayed on the back of the watch through a 3-dimensional spherical indicator, an innovation introduced by the brand.
DE BETHUNE DBDR S5 Digital
144.
An extremely rare and unusual titanium automatic wristwatch/desk clock with date and reversible case
Manufacturer
Antoine Preziuso Genève
Year
Circa 2000
144.
Case No.
02/XVI
Model Name
B-side Automatic
Material
Titanium
Calibre
Automatic, jeweled
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
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Clasp/Buckle
Antoine Preziuso titanium deployant clasp
Dimensions
45mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 3,000-6,000 $3,200-6,400 €2,700-5,400 Accessories Accompanied by undated Antoine Preziuso guarantee card stamped by Antoine Preziuso Genève, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Antoine Preziuso is an unbridled creative force in the modern watchmaking panorama. This iconoclastic vocation was apparent since the very first watch bearing his name , executed in 1986, which bears a Carrara marble dial. Recipient of two Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève awards in 2015 and of the Gaia prize in 2020, Preziuso kept and increased his reputation as “enfant terrible” of the watchmaking world. The present creation fully represents the enormous creativity of the watchmaker. Not only the case pivots so that it can be worn upside down, thus showing the movement of the watch. It is further constructed with a highly ingenious hidden frame which allows the watch to be used as desk clock once not on the wrist. A truly whimsical creation that will never cease to fascinate its new lucky owner.
A N TO I N E P R E Z I U S O G E N È V E B-Side
145.
An incredibly rare and attractive rectangular white gold wristwatch with retrograde date
Manufacturer
Roger Smith
Year
Circa 2005
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Model Name
Series 1 “Onely Theo Fennell”
Material
18k white gold
Calibre
Manual, rectangular , jeweled
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18k white gold pin buckle
Dimensions
35.5mm Length excluding lugs and 38.5mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
signed Theo Fennell
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 ∑ $42,700-85,400 €36,200-72,300
Roger Smith is more than just George Daniels’ sole apprentice. He is even more than a master watchmaker. He is a man of resilience, focus and drive. At the age of 16, upon realizing that the young Roger was not fit for academic studies, Smith's parents sent him to watchmaking school in Manchester (UK) where he graduated in 1989 and won the British Horological Institute’s Bronze medal for the most outstanding student in his final year. It was at that time that he met George Daniels, an encounter that would shape his life as a watchmaker. After graduation, Smith joined TAG Heuer in the repairs department and contacted Daniels, offering his apprenticeship. A dry refusal led Smith to create his first entirely hand made pocket watch.
He set up his workshop in his parents' garage, quit his job at TAG Heuer and set out to create a tourbillon pocket watch with detent escapement. The watch took a year to finish but Daniels did not find it to be good enough. Smith went back to his workbench and spent another 5 years working on a tourbillon pocketwatch with a perpetual calendar. Upon completion he went to see Daniels, who asked Smith where the case, dial, movement etc. were made. When Smith replied that he had, Daniels turned to him with these resounding words “congratulations, you are now a watchmaker”. In the late 1990, Smith joined Daniels as an apprentice to work on the Millennium wristwatches Daniels was to make. In the early 2001 Smith decided to set out on his own and create his own wristwatch, a rectangular timepiece with a perfectly fitting rectangular movement. The Series 1 was born. Heavily inspired by Daniels’ work, it displays an intricate guilloché dial, retrograde date and a rectangular movement with typical English finish, with frosted and gilded plates, gold chatons and heat colored screws. Of the nine rectangular Series 1s that were made, three of them were part of the “ONELY” series commissioned by celebrated London jeweler Theo Fennell. The Fennell logo is placed at 12 and had his name engraved on the main plate. To the best of our research this is the first time a Roger Smith Series 1 “Theo Fennel” is being offered in an international auction room making it a unique opportunity not to be missed.
RO G E R S M I T H Series 1 “Onely Theo Fennell”
146.
A very elegant and unique yellow gold single button chronograph with certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer
De Bethune
Year
2002
Movement No.
Movement stamped C.D.B
Case No.
Case back stamped
Model Name
DB1
Material
18k yellow gold
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Unique Piece
Calibre
Manual, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18k De Bethune pin buckle
Dimensions
41.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by unstamped and undated De Bethune Certificate of Authenticity and fitted box. Literature De Bethune is featured in Watchmakers: The Masters of Art Horology by Maxima Gallery pp. 104-121.
The brainchild of Davide Zanetta, a collector of vintage timepieces and art and Denis Flageollet, a genius watchmaker who started his career restoring vintage timepieces and developing über complicated movements for others, De Bethune was created in 2002 and in close to 20 years they have developed over 35 inhouse movements and are at the origin of a cavalcade of extraordinary technical inventions. The present DB1 is as its name implies the brand’s first creation, its rather classical design is far from the more audacious ones the brand has come to be known for today but certain design elements, such as the bullet shaped lugs, can still be found in the brand’s current models. The DB1 was launched in 2002 and made in 28 pieces in white gold, 21 pieces in pink gold and one unique example in yellow gold: the present watch which also has a flat bezel contrary to the others giving the watch an incredibly sleek look. The design of the watch is incredibly attractive with its slim case, short bullet shaped lugs, large flat bezel and beautiful silver dial with guilloché centre. The movement was originally created by Flageollet for Jaquet (now Lajoux Perret) a company creating high end mechanical movements for third parties. It is stamped C.D.B, standing for Chevalier Dethune, an 18th Century French aristocrat and horologist known for his innovative escapement system and whose name inspired the founders of De Dethune.
DE BETHUNE DB1 “Pièce Unique”
147.
A well-preserved and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1978
Reference No.
5402ST
Movement No.
159’322
Case No.
99954 and B1954
Model Name
Royal Oak “B Series”
Material
Stainless steel
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Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $42,700-85,400 €36,200-72,300 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificate de Garantie dated April 14, 1978, service papers dated March 13, 2006, Bucherer service papers and service Guarantee dated April 18, 2018, additional links and presentation box.
Launched in 1972 at Basel Fair, Audemars Piguet’s introduction of the Royal Oak marked the beginning of the luxury sports watch market we know today, causing an immediate sensation as the watch industry had never seen anything comparable before. At the time the most expensive steel wristwatch available, it most notably housed the extra slim caliber 2121 based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920, that would later be found in the Nautilus wristwatch. Today, the Royal Oak remains as iconic as ever, with early examples being exceedingly popular and collectible. The Royal Oak model reference 5402 has been produced in four different batches: A, B, C and D with small design details that made each subtly different. Presented in excellent condition, the present “B series” Royal Oak is a rare and extremely sought after Audemars Piguet. It is thought that from the original “A-series” production, 2000 pieces were manufactured, while the total production of “B-series” was just 1000 examples. The dial is preserved in excellent condition with the AP logo at 6 o’clock as correctly found on any A and B Series as well as some C Series, furthermore upon closer inspection one can also notice that the clasp is stamped Audemars Piguet.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 5402ST Royal Oak “B Series”
148.
A rare and attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with burgundy “Stella” dial and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1980
Reference No.
18038
Movement No.
0’646’383
Case No.
6’654’541
Model Name
Day-Date “Stella”
Material
18K yellow gold
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Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, end links stamped 55, max. length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex concealed deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,300-42,700 €18,100-36,200
The present Rolex Day/Date- in very appealing conditionpresents two elements that truly set it apart. It features on the one hand a lovely burgundy “Stella” lacquer dial that has captivated collectors worldwide for decades. On the other hand, on left side of the dial one can notice the Khanjar - Oman’s national emblem, composed of a dagger in sheath superimposed upon two crossed swords, meaning that this piece was made on commission for the Sultan of Oman, His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said. Such watches bearing the Khanjar were given as gifts to close high-ranking officials or foreign dignitaries. According to scholarship, the tradition of gifting watches by His Majesty began following his defeat of the Dhofar Rebellion working in partnership with the British government. As an expression of his gratitude to the teams of Britain’s elite Special Forces branch, the SAS, he presented “Khanjar” watches to the SAS soldiers who were instrumental in defeating the rebellion. Shortly after the victory, His Majesty commemorated the occasion by surmounting the Khanjar with a crown. All watches made for him since then feature this attractive, crowned Khanjar. His Majesty ascended the Omani throne in 1970 and passed away in 2020.
RO L E X Ref. 18038 Day-Date “Stella Khanjar”
149.
A very rare and attractive stainless steel and yellow gold dual time wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, date and bracelet, made for the UAE Ministry of Defense
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Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
The polychrome tones are vibrant and eye catching in a way that only genuine Rolex stamps can be. Most interestingly, this example features the signature of His Highness Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum. In contrast, most examples feature the Wazarah Ad Difa'A department in Arabic, making this watch a particularly rare variant. It is entirely possible that these Emir-signed watches were given in the most prestigious of circumstances.
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel and 18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee
The provenance of this watch is of particular interest as it comes with documentation from its original owner, a former Special Air Service Regiment (SAS) member turned trainer for the Dubai Royal Guard Regiment paratroopers. Establishing his own military parachute school in Dubai in the 70's, the original owner went on to train the Dubai freefall parachute National team that competed around the world. On the occasion of the wedding of HRH Sheikh Mohammed with the presence of the Ruler of Dubai HRH Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum, members of the Dubai parachuting National team demonstrated in honor of the special occasion. Rolexes with the Quraysh Hawk and the signature of His Highness Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum were presented to the members as a kind gesture of appreciation. This timepiece is preserved in overall great condition, with sharp satin finishes on the top of the lugs and crisp edges. The case back retains a strong satin finish, the watch is furthermore complemented by an attractive 18K yellow gold and stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet.
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1978
Reference No.
1675
Movement No.
D’824’059
Case No.
5’659’673
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
Stainless steel and 18K yellow gold
bracelet stamped “78363”, end links stamped “J480”, max length 220mm Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
stamped “VC” and “14”
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $42,700-85,400 €36,200-72,300 Accessories Accompanied by documentation from original owner regarding how he obtained the piece and pictures of original owner and Watches of Switzerland service receipt dated October 31st, 2000.
The GMT Master was created by Rolex in the second half of the 1950s in collaboration with Pan Am Airways. This stainless steel and yellow gold variant displays a stunning black dial and black bezel. Most notably this example displays the UAE emblem, or the Quraysh Hawk, rendered in polychrome relief on the dial.
RO L E X Ref. 1675 GMT-Master “The Quraysh Hawk”
150.
A fine and extremely well preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1981
Reference No.
6263
Movement No.
10’742
Case No.
6’294’880
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “78350 19” to the endlinks, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
stamped “78350”
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $53,400-107,000 €45,200-90,400 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee dated November 2, 1981 and stamped by “Juwelier Laufer”, green document holder, hangtag, product literature, fitted presentation box and outer packaging
Entering into the 1970s after almost a decade since the very first Cosmograph Daytona reference was introduced, Rolex released two new models via the refs. 6263 and 6265. Replacing its previous references, the new models features several upgrades. Most notably, both new references are now fitted with screwdown chronographic pushers to enhance the waterproof capabilities and robustness of the timepiece. While both references were practically the same with just the difference of the bezel, one metallic and one with a black insert, both new models are powered by the upgraded chronometer certified cal. 727. Later examples of the reference further featured an Oyster Triplock 700 crown. The present example ref. 6263 with a black dial bearing an 6.2 million serial is offered in exceptional overall condition and is accompanied by its original Rolex guarantee and its service invoices. The dial especially is a case study in preservation, without losses or degradation to neither the graphics, nor the surface, nor the luminous material. Nicknamed the “Big Red” due to its big and vibrant “DAYTONA” inscription above the 12-Hour register, the present timepiece also displays a Mark II bezel insert and Mark II pushers. As these details are upgraded to the Mark III version in the early 1980s precisely the time when this piece was produced - this is one of the very last examples to bear the MKII details.
RO L E X Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona“Big Red Full Set”
151.
An extremely rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with galvanic “no lume” black dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1965
Reference No.
6238
Case No.
1’226’454
Model Name
Pre-Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72B, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet stamped “7205” and “71” to the endlinks, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “1 66”
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-160,000 $85,400-171,000 €72,300-145,000
The reference 6238 is undoubtedly a milestone in Rolex’s chronograph history. Launched in 1960, it is the last model to feature a plain bezel and an inner tachymeter scale. It can also be described as Rolex’s first modern chronograph, and one that would pave the way to reference 6239, the first Cosmograph Daytona ever released by Rolex. Thus the nickname “PreDaytona” given by collectors to reference 6238. Interestingly even though it is called the Pre-Daytona, the reference 6238 was produced in parallel to reference 6239 with which they share certain design elements such as the crown, the pushers, case and indexes. However, while the Cosmograph Daytona always featured a two tone dial with either black with silver subdials or vice versa, the reference 6238 was offered only with a monochrome dial. The present timepiece is distinguished by its incredibly rare black “galvanic” dial, where the graphics are gilt in nature. Most intriguingly, there are no luminous dots on the dial - yet, the graphics and “-T SWISS T-” found at 6 o’clock is correct for the serial number, leading us to believe the present watch was born in its present condition. Its case condition is particularly stunning and impressive. It remains very crisp, with the “step” between the case and the bezel extremely profound and sharp. It is our understanding that the timepiece was acquired from the estate of a medical specialist at the UMCG in Groningen, The Netherlands.
RO L E X Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona”
152.
An extremely attractive, so-far unique and unusual stainless steel triple calendar chronograph wristwatch with tropical dial and Gay Frères bracelet, retailed by Joyeria Riviera
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1953
Reference No.
6036
Case No.
943’985
Model Name
Oyster Chronographe,
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
“Datocompax”, “Killy” Calibre
Manual, cal. 72C, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Gay Frèrès bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Gay Frèrès deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed; bracelet signed by bracelet maker
Estimate CHF 150,000-250,000 $160,000-267,000 €136,000-226,000
From 1947 until 1962, Rolex produced a series of rare and innovative triple calendar chronograph wristwatches housed in Oyster cases, encompassing the references 4767, 5036, 6036 and 6236. The reference 4768 also bore a triple calendar chronograph complication, however in a non-Oyster case. Produced in very limited numbers, these references were made in yellow and pink gold, as well as stainless steel. Initially known as the Dato-Compax, today they are more generally referred to as the "Jean-Claude Killy", named after the three-time French Olympic ski champion and Rolex ambassador.
After production of reference 6236 ceased around 1962, Rolex would never again offer a model with similar complications. The two earliest references were produced at the same time: non-Oyster reference 4768 (the only non-waterproof DatoCompax) and Oyster ref. 4767. They feature dials with very vintage traits including two-tone dials, especially in the earliest examples, and 5-minute Arabic divisions in the seconds scale. The date ring presents “upside down” numerals in the lower half of the dial: there is no inversion of graphic direction at 9 and 3 o’clock. Later (such as in ref. 6036), the date ring presents the inversion at 9 and 3, so the numbers on the lower half of the ring read vertically. The present, early reference 6036 bears what can arguably be defined as one of the most charismatic dials to ever appear on a vintage Rolex. Since its birth, the dial was immediately in a category of its own as it is the only example known of 6036 co-signed by Joyeria Riviera. Furthermore, the signature of the Cuban (before moving to Puerto Rico for political reasons) retailer is unarguably one of the most aesthetically complex and pleasing, defined by the large cursive “R” and also - in juxtaposition - by the very long and linear J at the beginning. If this wasn’t enough, with time the watch developed one of the most unusual and visually striking patina to ever appear on a Killy: instead of the “usual” ivory, chestnut, off-white and similar colors, the dials emanates a distinctive Khaki green hue.
RO L E X Ref. 6036 “The Joyeria Riviera Killy”
153.
A highly rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
scan for more info
Year Reference No.
5402ST
Movement No.
127’082
Case No.
67840 and caseback further
Model Name
Royal Oak
Material
Stainless steel
stamped A840
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
clasp stamped 1.72
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $32,000-53,400 €27,100-45,200 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confirming sale of the present watch in 1973 to Switzerland and the movement 127082 was originally fitted in case number 67038, Royal Oak A38. It was changed to the current case sometimes before year 2000.
Audemars Piguet’s introduction of the Royal Oak marked the beginning of the luxury sports watch market we know today. Launched in 1972 at Basel Fair, it caused an immediate sensation as the watch industry had never seen anything comparable before. It was at the time the most expensive steel wristwatch available. It most notably housed the extra slim caliber 2121 based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920, that would later be found in the Nautilus wristwatch. Today, the Royal Oak remains as iconic as ever, with early examples being exceedingly popular and collectible. Known as the “A Series”, the present watch is the original Royal Oak model produced in the 1970s. Preserved in excellent condition, it displays thick bevels, crisp finishes and even its original Gay Frères bracelet stamped for 1972.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 5402ST Royal Oak “A Series”
154.
A superbly rare and attractive white gold, diamond and emerald-set automatic wristwatch with date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2003
Reference No.
14840BC
Movement No.
491’369
Case No.
E-35098, 127
Model Name
Royal Oak
Material
White gold, emerald, diamond
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2225, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Audemars Piguet bracelet stamped “L” to the endlinks, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-70,000 $42,700-74,700 €36,200-63,300 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch on April 30, 2003.
Toward the end of last century, watchmaking underwent a substantial stylistic evolution: after the quartz crisis of the 1970s and the first tentative recovery of the 1980s, the entire field began to rediscover and partly reinvent itself in light of the newfound market interest - which was a fraction of today’s, but still radically better than what the scenario looked like for some companies just 10 or 15 years prior.
Bejewelled sports timepieces are a sign of this new trend. Earlier on, bejewelled timepieces were usually lady’s creations intended to be used at gala or formal occasions (some incredibly experimental timepieces were produced in the 1970s within this category); gem-set sport’s watches were hardly ever produced (and when produced, usually on demand with miniature series or piece unique). In the 1990s, companies begun to offer small production series of pieces that blended together the carefree and utilitarian spirit of the sport’s watch with the ethereal luxury of a bejewelled timepiece. Not only this new hybrid was virtually unknown, but it furthermore helped to increase the interest of the male segment of the market: now a diamond-set wristwatch could be as sporty and masculine as any timepiece, just with some added flair. The present superb creation is an example of such trend. Realised in the late 1990s and early 2000s, reference 14840 is known in different metals and different gem-setting - both to the dial and the bezel. The present iteration is one of the most striking one: the coolness of the white gold case and bracelet is reprised and amplified by the 24 baguette-cut diamond in the bezel, and then by the pave’ set bezel. In the middle of this explosion of dazzling white, the discrete emerald-set numerals shine like coloured spark in a fireworks display. A truly mesmerising creation that can be enjoyed by the most discerning connoisseurs for its rarity and execution, as well as by the most novice collectors for its unbridled beauty.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 14840BC Royal Oak “Pavé”
155.
A possibly unique and highly important platinum and diamond-set automatic wristwatch with center seconds, day, date, black gloss dial, diamond-set round numerals and service guarantee
One of the most elusive Day-Date models, the appeal of the present reference 6612/6613 is further boosted by the number of unusual traits it features, which render it one of the most collectible Day-Dates to ever appear on the market. First and foremost, it appears that the case of the present watch was intended to be used on a reference 6612, as denoted between the lugs. The 66xx series of Day-Dates in fact is made up of: ref. 6611, featuring ribbed bezel ref. 6612, featuring smooth bezel ref. 6613, featuring diamond-set bezel In this case, while the number 6612 is present both between the lugs and inside the caseback, the number 6613 appears stamped in the back underneath 6612, indicating the watch was upgraded at a later stage. This makes perfect sense when considering the extremely scarce production of reference 6613, of which another example is known from John Goldberger’s book “100 Superlative Rolex Watches”, and a third one from the Hong Kong Phillips sale of May 2016, this latter one featuring a bespoke dial. Such scarcity, combined by the fact that the case numbers of these three watches are all in the 4xx’xxx range, indicates that this model was most probably only produced on special order, a theory further supported by the dial of the present watch. It in fact presents some extremely unusual traits which directly challenge the current scholarship on Day-Date. For example, the diamond setting of the indexes has never before seen round chatons as opposed to the conventional square ones. Even the Day Date signature is highly peculiar, lacking the hyphen between the two words. Such a plethora of unusual traits prompted us to send the watch to Rolex Geneva for a mechanical service (of course specifying not to touch case and dial), and the House promptly executed the overhaul, without raising any objection on any details of the watch, thus implying they deem it correct.
RO L E X Ref. 6612B Day-Date “The Platinum Eclipse”
155.
A possibly unique and highly important platinum and diamond-set automatic wristwatch with center seconds, day, date, black gloss dial, diamond-set round numerals and service guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1959
Reference No.
scan for more info
6612B, inside caseback stamped “6612” and “6613”
Movement No.
DDN884665
Case No.
446’052
Model Name
Day-date
Material
Platinum and diamond-set
Calibre
Automatic, cal. B1055, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum Rolex President bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Rolex “Big Logo” deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “1.59”
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $53,400-107,000 €45,200-90,400 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Geneva Service cards and Service letter dated October 14, 2019.
An idea of the rarity of this model, especially in platinum, is apparent when considering that the “Big Kahuna” 6612 offered at the Glamorous Day-Date Phillips sale achieved what at the time was a world record for any Day-Date (LOT 43) at 473’000 CHF even though the record is now dethroned by the most famous Day-Date of all, the wristwatch that Jack Nicklaus, world renowned golf maestro wore for 50 years which was sold for 1.22 million USD in December at Phillips New York (Lot 18). The bracelet as well will delight the most discerning Rolex collectors, it is stamped 1.59, thus perfectly fitting with the production date of the watch. It also features a beautifully preserved clasp with all the traits that make Rolex collectors’ hearts beat faster - the big logo designation with four notches, large Rolex crown and an immaculate sandblast finish found both in the foldable big logo metal plates and in the inner side of the clasp as well.
RO L E X Ref. 6612B Day-Date “The Platinum Eclipse”
156.
A very attractive and rare stainless steel wristwatch with perpetual calendar, moonphase display and bracelet
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 1995
Reference No.
25829ST
Movement No.
425’200
Case No.
E94896-407
Model Name
Royal Oak Openworked
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Perpetual Calendar Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2120 / 2802, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 70,000-140,000 $74,700-149,000 €63,300-127,000 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificate of Origin, an extra link and Guarantee and Audemars Piguet leather travel box.
The Royal Oak is a timepiece that set the benchmark on many fronts. Not only was it the very first luxury sports watch when launched in 1972, it was also the very first luxury sports watch featuring a complication.
In 1982, exactly 10 years after its launch, the Royal Oak was presented with a perpetual calendar, not only a rare complication at the time as very few brands were still producing them but the audacity of housing this delicate complication in a steel sports watch was mind boggling. Soon after Audemars Piguet merged its technical know how to its artistic dexterity by presenting a perpetual calendar Royal Oak with an open work movement, once again demonstrating the brand’s ability to think out of the box. It was not until the mid 1990s that the caliber 2120/2800 housed within the Royal Oak perpetual calendar models was upgraded to feature a leap year indicator placed within the months subdial at 12 o’clock, resulting in a change of the caliber reference to 2120/2802. Caliber 2120/2800 was born in 1977 making it the world’s slimmest perpetual calendar movement with a thickness of only 3.95mm. Reference 25829 is immensely charismatic thanks to its potent blend mixing the power of the Royal Oak case and delicate subtlety of an openwork movement allowing a unique view into the perpetual calendar movement. The combination of sublime technical execution and unmistakable looks has over time led the collector community to consecrate this model as one of the most interesting, attractive and collectible complicated Royal Oak executions.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 25829ST Royal Oak “Openwork”
157.
An elegant and highly complicated white gold minute repeating wristwatch with tourbillon regulator and Guarantee
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2008
Reference No.
25858BC
Movement No.
600’149
Case No.
F10231
Model Name
Jules Audemars
Material
18K white gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Manual, cal. 2872, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Audemars Piguet pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $42,700-85,400 €36,200-72,300 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Warranty, Authentication and register certificate booklet stamped by Tirana, Albania retailer “La Swiss” and dated December 2008, multiple documents concerning purchase and shipment of the piece at a public sale in 2015, multiple documents concerning an AP service made in 2016, leather Audemars Piguet travel box and outer packaging.
Audemars Piguet is one of the most hallowed watchmaking brands, and one of the last family-owned manufacturers. While nowadays most renowned for the Royal Oak line of timepieces, the brand’s more classical creations are absolute masterpieces of design and technology, and manufactured in extremely restricted numbers. Both the ultimate mastery of the art and the limited output are a direct link with the past of Audemars Piguet. The present example marvelously exemplifies how the brand manages to interpret its distinguished heritage in light of the modern evolution of watchmaking design. It features the two arguably most sought-after horological complications - the tourbillon and the minute repeater - housed in an exquisitely retro-modern Jules Audemars case, inspired by the classic cases of the mid-twentieth century but reinterpreted in a modern key. The dial design is simple but full of character, the exposed tourbillon being the undoubted protagonist, subtly complemented by the guillochage and the asymmetric chapter ring for the hours. Reappearing after 6 years on the market (being last sold in 2015), the watch has in the meanwhile undergone a complete overhaul by Audemars Piguet - fully detailed by the accompanying documents -
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 25858BC Jules Audemars “Répétition Minutes Tourbillon”
158.
A highly rare and attractive white gold automatic wristwatch with subsidiary seconds
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1962
Reference No.
3433
Movement No.
1’111’751
Case No.
2’624’639
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 27-460,
scan for more info
37 jewels, stamped twice with the Geneva Seal Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $26,700-53,400 €22,600-45,200 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production in 1962 and its subsequent sale on March 31, 1962.
There is not much more one could expect from a classic, elegant and timeless watch than what can be found in this reference 3433. The thin stepped case with a dash of “disco volante” playfulness perfectly fits the wrist. With a large 36mm diameter, a silver colored sunburst dial adorned with thin gold baton indexes, this wristwatch embodies the ultimate gentleman’s elegance. Reference 3433 was launched in 1960 and was the direct successor to reference 2551. It was fitted with calibre 27-460, newly introduced in the same year. Cal. 27-460 is the new name given to the final evolution of cal. 12-600, considered by many one of the best automatic movements ever made in the entire history of watchmaking. The present white gold example of reference 3433, one of only five known and is preserved in excellent condition with hard enamel graphics present.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3433
159.
A beautiful and rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with black glossy dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1942
Reference No.
130
Movement No.
862’869
Case No.
628’516
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal 13-130, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $53,400-107,000 €45,200-90,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with black dial and tachymeter scale in 1942 and its subsequent sale on September 26, 1942.
Patek Philippe’s reference 130 is most definitely one of the firm’s most known and appreciated vintage chronograph models. First released in 1934, the watch was in production until 1964 with its case deriving from the Bauhaus-designed reference 96. Being in production for nearly 30 years the reference 130 was produced in yellow and pink gold, as well as in stainless steel with a number of dial variations. The present example first appeared on the market in 1989 with a black dial but with incorrect short signature and without tachometer scale and reappeared on the auction market in 2013 with the present correct dial featuring long Patek Philippe & Co (as the watch was produced in 1942) signature and tachometer scale, as confirmed by the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives. The latter is very well preserved incredible to look at with its galvanic gilt signature and deep black glossy surface . In overall very appealing condition with a strong crisp hallmark on the case the present combination of black glossy dial and yellow gold case is extremely rare and only 15 examples are known.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 130 “The Glossy Black Dial”
160.
A highly rare and incredibly well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch with two-tone dial and Breguet numerals
Reference 570, nicknamed “Calatravone” (Italian for large Calatrava), has been a favorite amongst collectors thanks to its large case, flat bezel and vivid modernist design. Introduced in 1938, the iconic reference 570, which is a larger version of Patek Philippe’s reference 96, was manufactured with both subsidiary and center seconds configurations in stainless steel, yellow, white and pink gold, and platinum cases.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 570 “The Black Enamel Breguet Numerals”
160.
A highly rare and incredibly well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch with two-tone dial and Breguet numerals
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1942
Reference No.
570
Movement No.
922’875
Case No.
626’864
Model Name
“Calatravone”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-120, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 200,000-400,000 $213,000-427,000 €181,000-362,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with satin-finished silvered dial, black enameled Breguet numerals in 1942 and its subsequent sale on February 22, 1943.
Fresh to the auction market and one of the most impressive specimens to grace the auction market in recent years, the present reference 570 in stainless steel features an extraordinary two-tone dial with Breguet numerals. To date, only two examples with the present dial configuration (two-tone dial with Breguet numerals and railway track) have appeared on the market, no less in such original and stunning condition. Not only is the two-tone effect dazzling and visible, all hard enamel graphics are also present, showing that the dial has not seen intervention throughout its lifetime. As an added bonus, the dial is confirmed by the Extract from the Archives as being satin-finished with black enameled Breguet numerals, adding to the collectibility of the timepiece. The case too is in most appealing condition with sharp facets and crisp sides. So enigmatic is this dial design that Patek Philippe chose to use this configuration in their reference 5196 in platinum.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 570 “The Black Enamel Breguet Numerals”
161.
An extremely fine, rare and important yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases and Italian calendar
For an in-depth introduction to ref. 2499, please see lot 208. Represented by this stupendous yellow gold example, the first series of reference 2499 is the most immediately recognisable of the four, as it features square pushers rather than the round ones seen on all other series. Two case makers have been employed for the case production. Consequently, first series cases present subtle differences according to the maker that produced them. The earliest examples feature a Vichet case, with a 36mm diameter, flat back and lugs more “claw-shaped” and less downturned. Later examples are made by Wenger - they will make nearly all of the cases for the rest of the 2499 production until 1985 - and feature a slightly larger 37.5mm diameter, markedly downturned lugs and a bombé caseback.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2499 “The First Series”
161.
An extremely fine, rare and important yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases and Italian calendar
Dial-wise, the first series features the same design as reference 1518. Two different variation are known: one with the date ring enclosed by boundaries (identical to parent reference 1518), and a second one where the date ring present no such delimitation. As their ancestor, first series dials present a tachymeter scale and Arabic numerals.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2499 “The First Series”
161.
An extremely fine, rare and important yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases and Italian calendar
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1953
Reference No.
2499
scan for more info
Movement No.
868’538
Case No.
691’605
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
stamped twice with the geneva Seal
Estimate CHF 1,000,000-2,000,000 $1,070,000-2,130,000 €904,000-1,810,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1953 and its subsequent sale on October 1, 1956.
First series 2499 examples are known in yellow and pink gold and are unanimously considered to sit in the highest echelon of watch collecting. The scarcest of all series, it was in production only less than a decade, in the 1950s - though Vichet cases are not seen after 1953. Only very few first series pieces were made, of which a handful is known in pink gold. The present example is without a doubt one of the best preserved to ever appear at auction. The case is in stupendous condition, perfectly maintaining the lug architecture, and sporting two extremely crisp hallmarks behind the lugs. The dial is even better: only the slightest hint of off-white patina is a clue to the passage of time. Otherwise, the engraved/ enamelled graphics are as clear and raised as the day the dial left the workshop; even the accent on the “e” of Genève - a details notoriously sensitive and often lost - is present. Made in 1953, it is one of the last first series cases made. It features an “open” date ring, as expected from a late production first series. Last seen on the public market in 2008, the present watch features an additional highly intriguing detail: the presence of an Italian calendar. Mostly featuring English or French calendar, Patek philippe perpetual calendar watches are known to feature other languages on the dial discs as well, with Italian being extremely rare: only 4 first series yellow gold examples feature this detail.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2499 “The First Series”
162.
A very fine and rare pink gold automatic chronograph wristwatch with multiscale dial, certificate of origin and presentation box, part of a 400 pieces limited edition
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2014
Reference No.
5975R
Movement No.
5’845’596
Case No.
6’007’263
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. CH 28-520,
scan for more info
29 jewels, stamped with the Patek Philippe seal Bracelet/Strap
Patek philippe alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 ∑ • $32,000-53,400 €27,100-45,200 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated November 12, 2014 and stamped by Gübelin, commemorative medal, limited edition Attestation, product literature, leather document holder, fitted presentation box and double outer packaging
In 2014 Patek Philippe - founded in 1839 - turned 175 years old. A restricted selection of commemorative pieces were released as limited editions, among which the present reference 5975. One of only 400 pieces made, the present watch is fresh to the market and offered by its original owner. A marriage of tradition and modernity, it features a generous 40mm case of very complex construction, defined by the heavily stepped lugs. The design of its chronographic complication harkens back to the multi-scale chronographs of the first half of the 20th century. Devoid of a minute counter, it is effectively a 1-minute chronograph, thus intended to be used only in conjunction with the multi-scale dial to measure either speed (tachymeter scale), distance (telemeter scale) or heartbeats (pulsometer scale). The fact that such an utilitarian complication is found on such an elegant watch, and an Anniversary piece on top of that, betrays a surprising amount of irony, quite unusual considered the brand. The present piece is furthermore distinguished by being in practically “as new” condition, and by the fact that it is one of the very first examples delivered, on November 12, 2014: about a month after the model was announced - together with the other Anniversary models - in October. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5975R “The Multi-Scale Chronograph”
163.
TAG HEUER — An attractive and appealing limited edition stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with guarantee and presentation box, made for Hodinkee
Manufacturer
TAG Heuer
Year
2017
Reference No.
CAR221B.FC6350
Case No.
WPR7832, caseback
Model Name
Skipper for Hodinkee
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
further stamped No. 031/125
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 18, 39 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Heuer deployant clasp stamped H U4
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-6,000 $4,300-6,400 €3,600-5,400 Accessories Accompanied by original Tag Heuer guarantee confirming date of purchase on 21st June 2017, hang tag, instruction manual, two nato straps, outer box and fitted presentation box.
In the summer of 2017, the synergy between TAG Heuer and the online watch publication HODINKEE resulted in a refreshing contemporary take on the prized Heuer Carrera Skipper Reference 7754, also known as the very first ‘Skipperera’. The inception of the Skipperera dates back to 1967, when the esteemed American yachtsman Emil Mosbacher wore the timepiece on his wrist as he skippered the winning team on board the “Intrepid” at the 20th edition America’s Cup.
The following year, Jack Heuer commissioned the Carrera Skipper Reference 7754 to commemorate the historic victory. Only a small batch of 20 known examples were made at the time and its exclusivity was heightened as the model was excluded from the Heuer catalogue. For decades the watch remained incognito, and only came into the limelight around 2008 upon its discovery by Heuer enthusiasts. In honor of the 50th anniversary of Emil Mosbacher’s triumph, TAG Heuer and HODINKEE revamped the design of the original Carrera Skipper with a modern twist, which invigorated many Heuer collectors. While preserving the key elements of the early design, such as the sunburst ocean blue dial and Carrera case, the case was enlarged to 39mm and the plexiglass was replaced with a domed sapphire crystal. The highlight of the design is unequivocally the vibrant color scheme of the dial that symbolizes the bold and radical style of the 60s. Offered in excellent, like-new condition, the 2017 HODINKEE Limited Edition Carrera Skipper is an unforgettably attractive sports watch.
164.
BULGARI — A very fine and attractive ultra slim titanium wristwatch with bracelet, warranty and presentation box, made for the Middle Eastern market
Manufacturer
Bulgari
Year
2019
Reference No.
103023
Case No.
PO4566
Model Name
Octo Finissimo -
Material
Titanium
scan for more info
Middle East Edition Calibre
Automatic, cal. BVL 138, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Titanium Bulgari bracelet, max length 175mm
Clasp/Buckle
Titanium deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 7,000-14,000 $7,500-14,900 €6,300-12,700 Accessories Accompanied by Bulgari International Warranty card, fitted box and outer packaging.
Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo has become a major player in the luxury sports watch market in just a few short years. Launched only in 2017 (but based on Gerald Genta’s designs from the 1980s) the Octo Finissimo’s sleek taught lines, powerful appearance and ultra slim case have become immediately identifiable and a favorite amongst collectors.
The Octo Finissimo houses the Bulgari caliber BVL 138 which is one of the world’s slimmest automatic movements only 2.23mm thick but with an impressive 60-hour power reserve. The case its-self is a mere 5.15 mm thick. The Octo Finissimo exists in a variety of metals (titanium, steel, ceramic and pink gold) yet very few dial variations have been produced which makes the present example, in titanium, with its dark green East Asian numerals a very rare bird. For greater consistency and equilibrium, the Bvlgari brand signature is also in green as is the “Swiss Made” signature at the lower part of the dial. A limited production model available only in Bulgari boutiques in the Middle East the present model is a wonderful opportunity for the collector of modern icons.
165.
A unique prototype stainless steel split seconds chronograph wristwatch, proceeds going to charity
Manufacturer
IWC
Year
Circa 1995
Reference No.
3712
Model Name
Portugueser Split
Material
Stainless Steel
scan for more info
Seconds Chronograph Calibre
Manual, cal. 76240, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel IWC pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-16,000 ∑ $8,500-17,100 €7,200-14,500 Accessories Accompanied by a letter from Richard Habring confirming this was his watch and that it is a prototype, a heuer Split Seconds chronograph pocket watch, a dissassembled Valjoux 9 movement, a drawing of the IWC Doppel Chronograph, copy of International Watch magazine, Richard Habring’s IWC business card and a signed graphic novel about Habring2.
The present IWC Split Seconds is being consigned by the man who developed the split seconds chronograph movement at IWC: Richard Habring. It is a true piece of horological history. Habring joined IWC in 1991 – then helmed by the great Günther Blümelin - as technical director in charge of the development of a cost efficient and easy to assemble split seconds chronograph. It is important to underline that a split seconds mechanism, due to the incredible low tolerances, is one of the most difficult complications to master and expensive to produce. Habring’s
task was therefore one that requested out of the box thinking, talent and a bit of madness. The first decision was to use the ETA 7750 chronograph movement but to remove the winding system (to make it hand wound) the date and hour counters to make it thinner. A split seconds mechanism needed to be developed that would fit onto the 7750, the Eureka moment came after studying a Heuer pocket watch with split seconds housing a Valjoux 9 caliber – which explains the fact that the present IWC is accompanied by a Heuer split seconds pocket watch and a disassembled Valjoux 9 movement. IWC’s split seconds chronograph was born, first into the Pilot Doppel Chronograph and rapidly into what was the world’s most complicated timepiece at the time: The Destriero Scafusia featuring a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, tourbillon and split seconds chronograph. When it was decided to have the iconic Portugueser model house the newly developed split seconds chronograph Habring created a prototype- the present example-to show Blumelin what could be done with this new model and as such took parts from the Il Destriero Scafusia and applied a high grade finish including Geneva waves on the top bridge and balance cock. To be able to admire the movement he also cut an opening on the caseback. These modifications did not make it into the final production and Habring’s prototype (which explains the lack of numbering on the case and movement) remained unique. He wore it as his everyday watch until he left in the early 2000s to create his own brand with his wife Maria: Habring2. Not only a historically important timepiece, the proceeds of the sale will be going to charity, the biggest portion going to Caritas Austria and the rest to support local schools and associations.Caritas is a non governmental organization helping the poor both locally and abroad.
I WC Ref. 3712 Portugueser Split Seconds Chronograph “The Habring Prototype”
166.
A very attractive and rare pink gold chronograph wristwatch with diamond bezel with warranty and box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2010
Reference No.
26557OR
Movement No.
735’563
Case No.
G97264-2868
Model Name
Royal Oak
Material
18k pink gold and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2385, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 ∑ $26,700-48,000 €22,600-40,700 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Warranty, Authentification and Register Certificate, fitted box and outer packaging
Whereas it took Audemars Piguet 10 years after the launch of the Royal Oak to present its first complication in the iconic model range, the perpetual calendar in 1982, it took the brand an extra 15 years to present the Royal Oak chronograph in 1997. The present chronograph from 2010 is a rare, extremely charismatic, example in pink gold, silver tapisserie dial with a bezel delicately set with brilliant cut diamonds. In fact, to the best of our research it is the first time this reference appears in an international auction room. In excellent overall condition and delivered with its full set of accessories the present Royal Oak is flamboyant, sleek and extremely attractive.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 265570R Royal Oak
167.
A fine white gold wristwatch with date, power reserve indication, moonphases, certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2007
Reference No.
5712G
Movement No.
3’173’695
Case No.
4’391’818
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
18K white gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240 PS + IRM + C + LU Aut., 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000 O $32,000-64,000 €27,100-54,200 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated June 18, 2007, wooden presentation box, 18K white gold setting pin, leather envelop with product literature and outer packaging. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Service papers dated June 9, 2015.
Admired from L.A. to Timbuktu for its voluptuous shape and nonchalant look, the Patek Philippe Nautilus model needs no introduction. In 2006, Patek Philippe launched the new reference 5712 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of this coveted model. The present reference 5712 is cased in 18K white gold and features a power reserve indicator, moon phases and date. It was the most complicated Nautilus model on offer at the time, providing a more sophisticated option to its time and date only counterparts. Its white gold case with a seal grey dial comes to life in the details. With a mix of brushed, embossed and smooth dial finishes, the coldness of the pallet suddenly exudes a warmth and sumptuousness that only this combination can provide. Furthermore, adding more depth to the dial, some small details have been highlighted in red such as the four last dots of the power reserve and the first day of the calendar. The present example from circa 2007 belongs to an early example of the reference with its movement still stamped with the prestigious Geneva seal. Presented in excellent overall condition and accompanied with the original Certificate of Origin and a full set of accessories, it is a magnificent opportunity for collectors to acquire a beautiful example of this sought after model.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5712G Nautilus
168.
A highly rare and attractive white gold, diamond, ruby and sapphire-set dual time wristwatch with guarantee, bracelet, presentation box and outer packaging
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2009
Reference No.
116759
Movement No.
1’886’629
Case No.
M720877
scan for more info
Model Name
GMT-Master II SARU
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3186, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $53,400-107,000 €45,200-90,400 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee card stamped by Monaco retailer “Zegg & Cerlati” and dated April 4, 2009, card holder, hang tag, worldwide service booklet, massive presentation box and outer packaging. Furthermore delivered with Rolex Service card dated June 11, 2018.
The GMT-Master is most famously, and typically, cased in stainless steel. While reference 6542 and 1675 were sometimes cased in precious metals, these were infrequent occurrences. Indeed, it was not until the arrival of reference 16758 in 1979, that the GMT-Master was set with rubies, diamonds and sapphires, thus inspiring its nickname, ‘SARU’. Heavy, robust and lavishly set with either a diamond-sapphire, or diamond-sapphire-ruby bezel, reference 116759 reinterprets the original SARU with a white gold case, providing a dressy alternative to the classic stainless steel GMT- Master II. Preserved in excellent condition, this timepiece is accompanied by its original accessories such as its original guarantee and presentation box.
RO L E X Ref. 116759 GMT-Master II SARU
169.
A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1981
Reference No.
3700/1
Movement No.
1’308’247
Case No.
538’817
Model Name
Nautilus “Jumbo”
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 28-255, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-100,000 $64,000-107,000 €54,200-90,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1981 and its subsequent sale on January 11, 1982.
With the discontinuation of the modern Nautilus reference 5711, collectors have become even more enamored with the original Nautilus: the reference 3700. The Nautilus reference 3700 was designed by Genta and introduced in 1976. With this model, Patek Philippe created one of the most iconic and classic wristwatches of the late 20th century. It was a new era of luxury with the use of stainless steel for high-end watches,
which today is the epitome of masculine appeal with a sporty appearance that can be worn in any occasion. Developed in the midst of the quartz crisis, the relentlessness to preserve haute horology and to execute something truly special commanding the price of a gold watch was most definitely a calculated risk taken by the firm, which clearly paid off. In fact advertisements from the launch era boast the fact that one of the most expensive watches in the world was made of steel. Taking inspiration from a porthole of a ship, the case is constructed via a solid monobloc backcase with a distinctive rounded octagonal bezel secured by four lateral screws to ensure waterproof capabilities of up to 120 meters. The production of the 3700 was segmented into two main series with early examples (1976-1982) stamped with ref. 3700/1 and later examples (1982-1990) stamped with 3700/11. Early examples of the model featured a slightly wider bracelet measuring 16mm whilst later examples measured 14mm. The very first examples highlighted dials with small painted baton outer minute tracks, witnessed in examples bearing a case number lower than 1’303’999 and a movement number lower than 533’500. The second dial type featured a dotted outer minute track with “sigma SWISS sigma” applied on the bottom of the dial with an absence of serifs on the typography of the signature. As the dials for the reference were all handmade, the ribbed texture is achieved by carving each individual horizontal furrow by hand, the white gold applied hour markers were also handmade with the luminous material applied after. The present example ref. 3700/1 is offered in attractive overall condition.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3700/1 Nautilus
170.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A rare and extremely fine stainless steel automatic wristwatch
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 1963
Reference No.
3466
Movement No.
1’113’015
Case No.
2’626’978
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 27-460,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
37 jewels, stamped twice with the Geneva Seal
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1963 and its subsequent sale on March 27, 1963.
First introduced to the market in 1962, reference 3466 remained in production for approximately ten years before it was discontinued in the early 1970s. Cased in stainless steel, the model was a sporty and technical alternative to its timeonly siblings dressed in precious metal. Stainless steel is much rarer compared to yellow gold in Patek Philippe’s mid-century production.
This automatic reference is powered by hallowed caliber 27460. This calibre is the final evolution of the legendary cal. 12-600, the first Patek Philippe automatic movement, result of literally decades (while waiting for Rolex’s patent on the rotor to expire) of R&D, and today considered one of the greatest movements of all time. Introduced in the 1950s, cal. 12-600 was incrementally upgraded over the years. Once Patek deemed to have reached perfection, it changed the name of the caliber to the present 27-460, which will also be the base for the perpetual calendar automatic PP movements found in ref. 3448 and 3450. Preserved in excellent condition, the stainless steel case still displays sharp edges. Furthermore, the watch features a charismatic soleil dial which arrives to us absolutely unspoiled, sporting properly raised engraved/enamel graphics and no flaw whatsoever.
171.
PATEK PHILIPPE — An elegant and very rare pink gold wristwatch with center seconds
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1956
Reference No.
2482
Movement No.
706’782
Case No.
691’210
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27SC, 18 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Patek Philippe alligator strap
scan for more info
stamped with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 ∑ $10,700-16,000 €9,000-13,600 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1956 and its subsequent sale on January 11, 1958.
Patek Philippe produced the reference 2482 from 1950, and ceased production around 1960. At that time, the 36mm diameter of the watch was an oversized anomaly in Patek Philippe’s line of production; intriguingly, today the size is perfectly in tune with the current fashion, especially considering the dress watch nature of the piece.
It was fitted with the 27 SC movement, arguably one of the best center second movements of the 20th century - which will be used as the basis for Patek Philippe’s center seconds perpetual calendar movement (27SCQ). The present example distinguishes itself for the superior condition of preservation of both case and dial. Most notably, the sculpted lugs are well preserved, without noticeable losses of material due to overpolishing. The dial as well is preserved in excellent condition, without restorations or losses to the engraved/enameled graphics. The model was known with a number of different dial variations, the present one being arguably one of the most rare and attractive, defined by the two-tone nature of the finish (obtained thanks to the different inclination of the outer dial sector), and the thin baton indexes (as opposed to the short baton or square indexes sometimes found on 2482 two-tone dials).
172.
OMEGA — An extremely rare and historically interesting asymmetric bracelet watch with blue dial
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1974
Reference No.
RS 711.1900
Movement No.
35.190.344
Model Name
De Ville “Jeux d’Argent”
Material
Sterling Silver
scan for more info
Calibre
Manual, cal.625, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Sterling Silver Omega bangle bracelet, max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle
Sterling Silver Omega hinge clasp
Dimensions
40mm width x 25mm length
Signed
Dial and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 2,000-4,000 $2,100-4,300 €1,800-3,600 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract of the Archives confirming production on October 14, 1974.
Omega’s Jeux d’Argent range was a peculiar and unusual collection released during the 70’s. At the time, gold prices were rising steadily, as a result, some manufacturers turned to steel or plastic, Omega tried silver and it had some success. Several models were available, all of them displaying a typical flamboyant, post-war style. During this period Omega experimented with unconventional materials and shapes taking inspiration and under the influential design of Andrew Grima, probably one of the most underrated jewellery and watch designer of the late 60’s. Grima’s collaboration with Omega started in 1969 with his first collection, About Time, which even to today’s standards remains unsurpassed in sculptural design, audacity and ingenuity. Omega viewed Grima’s collaboration as transformational, and that he single handedly added a new dimension to jewellery watches that were not entangled with the constraints of time but rather connected with fashion.
173.
GRAND SEIKO — A very rare and well preserved high precision stainless steel wristwatch with day and date
Manufacturer
Grand Seiko
Year
1972
Reference No.
61GS V.F.A
Movement No.
251’040
Case No.
6188-8000-G further
scan for more info
stamped 270299 Calibre
Automatic, cal. 6186G
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 7,000-10,000 $7,500-10,700 €6,300-9,000
The objective for Seiko when launching the Grand Seiko model in 1960 was to create what they considered the “ideal” watch that would be a benchmark in terms of precision, durability and beauty. At the end of the 60s with the explosion for the demand that Seiko itself had helped promote, Grand Seiko launched the mechanical. V.F.A. line. V.F.A stands for “Very Fine Adjusted” and, as the name implies, its distinguishing characteristic was its high precision. With it, the Grand Seiko team achieved an accuracy that far exceeded that required by any chronometer certification. The GS standard at that time was set at +5 to -3 seconds per day, but V.F.A. achieved an astonishing rate of +/-1 minute per month, a level unprecedented for any mechanical wristwatch. The 61GS V.F.A like the present example was launched in 1972, its cutting edge movement needed a disruptive case designs and in this field the 61GS V.F.A. does not disappoint. Steep angles and taught lines and futuristic appearance, the dial’s indices even possibly influenced by the monolith featured in Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey. An interesting feature of the watch is the day function can be set either in English or Japanese. The present watch from the very first batch is from 1972, the case back is engraved 2 and 7, 2 standing for 1972 and 7 for the month it was produced: July. Productions ended for this model in 1975 making it not only a very rare example of the 61GS V.F.A with day and date, its rarity enhanced by its incredible state of preservation.
174.
ULYSSE NARDIN — A large and charming yellow gold wristwatch with champagne, fixed bars and presentation box
Manufacturer
Ulysse Nardin
Year
Circa 1940
Movement No.
240’431
Case No.
627’230
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 2,000-3,000 $2,100-3,200 €1,800-2,700 Accessories Accompanied by Ulysse Nardin fitted presentation box.
The present timepiece represents a rare value proposition in the field of vintage watches. Impressing the beholder with a largefor-the-time 37mm diameter and a completely unrestored dial sporting a highly unusual and charming mottled champagne patina, this wristwatch is the ideal choice for the enthusiast of vintage timepieces looking for a daily wear piece which exudes vintage charm and at the same time sports a simple, timeless aesthetic as enjoyable by today’s fashion canons as it was 80 years ago. A touch of intellectual intrigue is provided by the fixed lugs. Such a solution was usually employed for steel military or professional timepieces - in order to better secure the watch to the wrist. It is quite unusual to find the feature in a gold dress piece such as the present one. Finally, it is worth mentioning how the movement finish appears to be of very high quality, featuring a Côtes de Genève finish.
175.
ULYSSE NARDIN — A very attractive and well preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with faceted mobile lugs, retailed by Türler
Manufacturer
Ulysse Nardin
Year
Circa 1940
Movement No.
29’262
Case No.
602’665
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 23, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18k yellow gold pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 7,000-12,000 $7,500-12,800 €6,300-10,800 Accessories Accompanied by Ulysse Nardin presentation box.
While Ulysse Nardin started making marine chronometers in 1846, it is the brand’s amazing variety of chronograph designs from the 1930s-1950s that really stand out in terms of design and flair. The present chronograph from the 1940s stands out thanks to its large extremely well preserved 37mm case with facetted mobile lugs and beautiful dial featuring a black tachymeter scale and grey telemeter scale. The dial is further signed Türler Bern-Zürich, Türler is a Swissbased, family-owned, jewelry and watch retailer founded in 1883 selling some of the most prestigious watch brands. The caseback is engraved with the initials AA in a very elegant Art Deco style.
176.
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer “explorer” dial and center seconds
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1952
Reference No.
6024
Case No.
866’826
Model Name
Oyster
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 5,000-8,000 $5,300-8,500 €4,500-7,200
This charming stainless steel reference 6024 displays an attractive black lacquer explorer dial, with the numbers 3, 6, 9 applied on the dial. As a further point of interest, the dial also displays luminous dots and hands, giving the timepiece a charming vintage appearance. Furthermore, the black lacquer remains glossy and vibrant, which is quite remarkable, given the age of the timepiece. The case is preserved in equally excellent condition, with very crisp and visible numbers between the lugs. Such well-preserved examples hardly appear on the market, no less in such a charming configuration.
177.
OMEGA — An attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and grey dial
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1967
Reference No.
ST105.003-65
Movement No.
24’537’868
Model Name
Speedmaster “Ed White”
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega bracelet with endlinks stamped 6, max. length 210 mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp,
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
stamped 7912, 1.65
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,800 €7,200-10,800 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confirming the date of production on May 10, 1967.
The reference 105.003-65 marks a pivotal movement in Omega history, as it was the Speedmaster reference rigorously tested by NASA that would become the timepiece chosen to accompany astronauts to the moon. From that moment forward, the destiny of Omega was fundamentally and profoundly changed, and has since been very closely aligned with space exploration.
It is nicknamed the “Ed White”, as the astronaut Ed White wore a reference 105.003-65 during his historic spacewalk during the Gemini 4 mission, becoming the first American to do so. He stayed in space longer than his allotted time, and famously upon his return remarked “I’m coming back in…and it’s the saddest moment of my life.” This reference is also the last of the Speedmasters to feature straight lugs, Omega later switched to “lyra” style, twisted lugs with an asymmetric case incorporating a crown guard. The present example in appealing condition features a rare grey dial that is sure to please Speedmaster aficionados.
178. NO LOT
179.
A fine and attractive yellow gold diver’s wristwatch with center seconds and date
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1970
Reference No.
1680
Movement No.
D 704’272
Case No.
2’530’702
Model Name
Submariner
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Gold plated Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm. diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 O $12,800-19,200 €10,800-16,300
Reference 1680 is legendarily known for being the first Submariner model to feature a Cyclopes date function. Initially launched in stainless steel, Rolex introduced a few years later its gold counterpart version such as the present example. The reference 1680 in yellow gold was Rolex’s first Submariner to take on the ever-growing demand for luxury watches with professional abilities. Indeed, the present watch carries all the technical features required for a diver’s watch: it is water resistant up to 200m deep, adorns a rotating bezel and its crown is protected by crown guards, yet the yellow gold case elevates the watch to the most fashionable accessory one could dream of. All in flamboyance, the matte black dial is strewn with a raised gold Crown logo, gold hands and raised gold hour markers filled with luminous material which have aged to a beautiful creamy colour. In other words, the watch shines bright all throughout the day and night. The black bezel insert remains in well-preserved condition and unlike the first Submariners released with red lettering, all the writing of the present example is printed in gold. Compared to a drink, the present reference 1680 could be a Martini. It is the classic collectible professional diver’s watch with a twist, very James Bond if you may ask.
RO L E X Ref. 1680 Submariner
180.
ROLEX — A rare and well preserved white gold automatic wristwatch with center seconds, day, date, bracelet, Italian calendar, COSC certification, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1967
Reference No.
1803
Movement No.
DD32559
Case No.
1’596’120
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K white gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1556, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex president bracelet stamped “53” to the endlinks, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped “2 67”
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-30,000 $16,000-32,000 €13,600-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched undated and unstamped Guarantee booklet, COSC certificate dated January 16, 1967, italian instruction booklet, numbers and price labels, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Rolex’s Day-Date is one of the most recognisable wristwatches today, and over the course of its 60 year history has been realized in all metal types and with different dial styles. Originally intended as Rolex’s “luxury proposition” (and indeed originally available in precious metal, with few prototypes in steel known), it has evolved to incarnate in the mind of nearly every watch enthusiast the conjunction of power, elegance, precision, luxury, exclusivity and mechanical perfection Rolex is famous for. The present example is presented in excellent condition and complete of all its original documents, including both COSC certification and Guarantee. As expected from a watch bearing Italian calendar discs, the piece was apparently sold in Italy, with both Guarantee and instruction booklet written in Italian. Finally, even the original tiny paper labels bearing movement and case number one, and the price (706’000 Italian lire) are present. A rare gem for the completionism-inclined collector.
181.
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive yellow gold, diamond and sapphire-set calendar wristwatch with center seconds and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1990
Reference No.
18238
Movement No.
5’562’828
Case No.
E296163
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold,
scan for more info
diamonds and sapphires Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gold plated Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex presentation box and outer packaging.
Ever glamorous and luxurious, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-finished designs. The firm has elevated its Day-Date models with materials such as rubellite, blood stone, coral, and even fossil, providing an unusual design twist to the iconic model. This rare variant of reference 18238 is fitted with a dial displaying beautiful sapphire baguette-set numerals and champagne tone. It is furthermore preserved in excellent and impressive condition. The case has probably never seen polishing throughout its lifetime, and the dial displays luminous dots that are round and intact, having aged with warm patina.
182.
A highly rare, impressive and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with “red depth” rating, center seconds and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1955
Reference No.
scan for more info
6536/1 inside caseback
Introduced in 1955, reference 6536/1 replaced reference 6536 and remained in production until 1959. Today, it is one of the most sought-after vintage Submariner references due to its design and modern proportions.
stamped IV.55 Movement No.
N’573’959
Case No.
112’069
Model Name
Submariner
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1030, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $53,400-107,000 €45,200-90,400
The present example is stunningly and impressively preserved with thick lugs, large crisp bevels and strong proportions. The numbers between the lugs are particularly crisp and barely show any signs of wear, which is particularly noteworthy, considering the age of the timepiece. The dial is in equally impressive condition with its strong gilt print. The luminous marker at 6 o’clock is most notably much brighter than the other lume plots. This feature allowed divers to orient themselves in the dark, as expected from Submariner dials of this period. The connoisseur will notice a small - yet very rare – detail on the lower part of the dial: the depth rating is rendered in red script. Most commonly, this reference features the “metres” and “feet” units of measure in the depth rating in gilt. Such a unitless red variation is extremely rare and particularly collectable. Its overall rarity and impeccable condition make the present Submariner a trophy for the connoisseur of rare timepieces.
RO L E X Ref. 6536/1 “Red Depth”
183.
An extremely rare and highly attractive stainless steel dual time automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date, bakelite bezel, tropical dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1958
Reference No.
6542
Movement No.
819’638
Case No.
398’058
Model Name
GMT-Master “Pussy Galore”
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1030, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet stamped “55” to the endlinks, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 1.58
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $53,400-107,000 €45,200-90,400 Accessories Accompanied by additional stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “80” to the endlinks and “4 68” to the clasp and product literature.
First released in 1954, the GMT-Master reference 6542 was designed for pilots to use in their line of work. With the rise of international travel in the 1940s and 1950s, Rolex initially created the model for Pan Am airlines to track dual time zones. This ingenious design featured an immediately recognizable bakelite bezel with the twenty-four hour numerals painted on the underside, made to glow in any weather condition.
Bakelite was Rolex’s material of choice, due to its low reflectivity and high readability. The additional luminous 24 hour tipped hand allowed the viewer to immediately track a second time zone. Given that the GMT-Master was created for specific, workrelated purposes, most examples were cased in stainless steel. These watches were worn in the most practical sense and made to withstand the elements. Thus, it is incredibly rare to find watches in original condition, like the present example with their original bakelite insert. This example is of course distinguished by its incredible “tropical” dial. Preserved in remarkable condition, the zapon finish of the dial is absolutely free of scratches, having aged only with the typical micro-bubbling and micro-fissuring seen on Rolex dial of this age - in this instance however these effects are so subtle that they can only be noticed with a strong loupe and indirect light. The star of the watch is however the black dial plate which has aged to an enormously charming degradé tropical brown, ranging from a lighter tobacco tone in the top left area of the dial, to an intense dark chocolate in the bottom right area of the dial. It is possible, given its geometry, that such an unusual topicalization is the result of the watch being worn on a right wrist.
RO L E X Ref. 6542 GMT-Master “Tropical Pussy Galore”
184.
A fine and very rare stainless steel automatic chronograph wristwatch with “Floating Cosmograph” dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1989
Reference No.
16520
Movement No.
14’459
Case No.
R’901’009
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
“Floating Cosmograph” Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “503” and “78360”, max length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
“RS7” and “78360”
Estimate CHF 40,000-60,000 $42,700-64,000 €36,200-54,200 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched Guarantee dated April 3, 1989, International Service Guarantee dated July 16, 2019, Bucherer service papers, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Rolex reference 16520 is among one of the most distinctive and innovative models to date. Housing a heavily modified Zenithbased caliber 4030 mechanism, the model was fitted with the first automatic chronograph movement in the firm’s history. At the time of its launch in 1988, the watch garnered an immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers – much like its descendant, the reference 116500LN would do in 2016. As it often happens with
Rolex timepieces, one can notice a subtle but well-defined evolution of the dial design in the early years of the model. The earliest specimens feature five lines of script at 12, but the fifth line “Cosmograph” is noticeably more spaced from the 4th line, compared to the spacing between all the other lines. This gives the impression of the word Cosmograph floating away from the rest, thus its nickname “Floating Cosmograph” (or “Staccato”, as it is known to Italian collectors). Given its status as the earliest iteration of the dial and its supreme scarcity, this configuration is considered one of the most collectable versions of the Zenith Daytona. Successive evolutions consist in the removal of the 5th line of script - also a variation in production for a short time, followed by the re-introduction of the fifth line albeit with equal spacing. This is the final configuration of the script, but not the final evolution of the dial: all these iterations feature an “inverted 6” (that is: the 6 is written upside down) in the counter at 6 o’clock. In the early 1990s, after the introduction of the 5 lines configuration, the graphics are once again updated and the 6 is upside up. The bezel, just like the watch itself has its own peculiarities: it is the very first iteration for this reference with the tachymeter scale stopping at 200. Later iterations will see the scale go all the way to 400 (first, for a short while, featuring indications for 200, 225, 250, 300 and 400 units per hour; later, featuring a simpler layout with 200, 240, 300 and 400). The present watch is offered in incredible condition, with original Rolex Guarantee dated 1989 and fitted presentation box making it a unique opportunity for true Rolex aficionados to add a unique timepiece to their collection.
RO L E X Ref. 16520 Cosmograph Daytona “Floating Cosmograph”
185.
A fine, very rare and extremely well preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1968
Reference No.
6241, inside caseback
scan for more info
Reference 6241 was produced approximately from 1966 to 1969. Scholars estimate that no more than 3000 pieces were produced during the model’s manufacture period, and only a small part of them with “Paul Newman” dials.
stamped 6239 Case No.
1’766’079
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
“Paul Newman” Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet stamped “71” and “7205” to the endlinks, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 3.69
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 120,000-220,000 $128,000-235,000 €108,000-199,000
Out of the small percentage of 6241s blessed with the Paul Newman dial, it is safe to say that only a minuscule fraction retain a dial as well preserved as the present one, which can be considered practically flawless in all of its parts: from the unmolested matte finish, to the strong step to the outer scale, to the perfect tritium accents. The case is well preserved in remarkable, original and appealing condition, and the presence of the original riveted Oyster bracelet ref. 7205 with “71” endlinks and stamped “3 69” is the final icing on this remarkable horological cake. The “Paul Newman” dials of references 6239 and 6241 have several peculiarities. They are incredibly three dimensional, featuring a strong step between the outer track and the central area of the dial. Towards the end of the 1960s, the “T Swiss T” designation positioned at 6 o’clock was printed with a slight slant and thus dubbed the “sing-a-song” to collectors, which we see perfectly preserved on this example. Later generation dials would feature a flat “T Swiss T” script, no longer in a pyramid shape.
RO L E X Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
186.
UNIVERSAL — A very rare and extremely well-preserved stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date and bespoke blue dial bearing the Iraqi Crest and the signature of Saddam Hussein
Manufacturer
Universal
Year
1974
Reference No.
867101
Case No.
3’184’755
Model Name
White Shadow
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2-67, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Universal pin buckle
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 5,000-10,000 • $5,300-10,700 €4,500-9,000
“White Shadow” is the name reserved by Universal for a line of automatic wristwatches launched in mid-1960s. Their most remarkable trait resided in the movement which was powered by an exclusive and groundbreaking automatic calibre. Fitted with a micro-rotor (practically science-fiction, at the time), the movement was the thinnest automatic caliber at the time of its introduction, a record it would hold for more than a decade.
Mainly cased in a typical 1960-style featuring an architecture with lugs integrated in the band profile as can be seen in this example, some movements found their home in more classic case designs. The present watch not only is offered in absolutely stunning, unpolished and unrestored condition, but furthermore features a very attractive cobalt blue dial with an important double personalization: it features both the Iraqi crest at 9 o’clock, and the signature of former Iraqi dictator Saddam Hussein at 3 o’clock. It is a longstanding tradition for ruler of Middle Eastern countries to offer bespoken timepieces as a gesture of recognition and appreciation to subjects, diplomats or governmental officials; beyond Iraq, other countries known to have ordered watches with bespoken dials are, among others, Oman, Saudi Arabia, Bahrein and Kuwait. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
187.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN — A very rare and elegant stainless steel wristwatch with centre seconds
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1962
Reference No.
6561
Movement No.
551’443
Case No.
382’477
Material
Stainless Steel
Calibre
Manual, cal.12’’’1/2-454, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 3,000-5,000 $3,200-5,300 €2,700-4,500 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confirming date of manufacture in 1962.
The present timepiece, from one of the world’s most prestigious manufacturers, is not only highly attractive and elegant but also houses a beautifully finished Vacheron Constantin caliber 454 bearing the prestigious Geneva Seal demonstrating the high level of finishing quality . When placed on the wrist, the beholder immediately realises the simple yet robust case this manual wristwatches showcases. Vacheron Constantin’s design of the watch emanates balance and elegance, at the same time commanding respect with a gentlemen like presence. Housed in a stainless steel 37mm case, it stands out as forward looking and avant-garde as in the 60’s masculine watches were typically 31-35 mm in diameter. It is the perfect size for daily wear as well as a great companion for an elegant gala dinner.
188.
PATEK PHILIPPE — An attractive and elegant white gold rectangular-shaped wristwatch with subsidiary seconds, day, date, 8-days power reserve indication, certificate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2015
Reference No.
5200G
Movement No.
5’781’702
Case No.
6’043’726
Model Name
Gondolo
Material
18K white gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Manual, cal. 28-20 REC 8J PS IRM, 28 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
46.9mm length and 32.4mm width
Signed
Case, dial, buckle and movement signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 ∑ $12,800-19,200 €10,800-16,300 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated 26th September 2015 stamped Villiger Gstaad, Villiger original invoice, setting pin, product literature, instruction manual, sales tag, leather wallet, slip case, travel pouch, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Launched in 2013, the Patek Philippe Gondolo ref. 5200 replaced the former ref. 5100 featuring a 10-Day power reserve, which was initially launched in 2000 to commemorate the new millennium. The unique looking rectangular stepped case further appears larger due to its unique lateral flanks. Sized 32.4mm wide by 46.9mm tall the watch retains a classy and elegant appearance also thanks to its white gold fluidly polished case. Featuring several integral upgrades, the new reference is powered by an entirely new and in house caliber 28-20 REC 8J IRM C J with robust Silinvar components that were developed especially for this reference. Furthermore, featuring a day and date indication, the newly upgraded caliber allows both to advance simultaneously together when the hands past midnight within three milliseconds. With a Pulsomax escapement with a Silinvar lever and escape wheel, it requires no lubrication and it is also friction free at the same time. A superbly versatile watch, the present reference 5200 is presented in excellent condition. Cased in white gold with an elegant white dial and superb black oxidised hands and hour numerals, it is furthermore accompanied by its full set of accessories.
189.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A highly rare and attractive white gold annual calendar wristwatch with certificate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2017
Reference No.
5396G
Movement No.
7’001’787
Case No.
6’127’104
Material
18K White Gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, 324 S QA LU 24H/303, 34 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,300-42,700 €18,100-36,200 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated March 6, 2017, product literature, setting pin, Wempe warranty, hang tag, wallet and presentation box.
Introduced in 2006, reference 5396 is an annual calendar upgrade of time-only reference 5296. Heavily influenced by masterpieces from the company’s rich history, the model’s case is inspired by the Calatrava cases of the mid-20th century, defined by simple flowing lines. The dial is instead inspired by a different vintage model - reference 3448 - from which it reprises the windows, indexes and moonphases disposition, the main difference being in the subsidiary dial: reference 3448 uses it for the display of the date, while in this instance it features a 24-hour indication, the date reassigned to a third window at 6 o’ clock.
190.
A very fine and rare pink gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date and “officer”-style hinged caseback with certificate of origin and winding box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2007
Reference No.
5059R
Movement No.
3’410’273
Case No.
4’337’548
Material
18k pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, 315 S-QR, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 ∑ $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin confirming its sale in the Patek Philippe Salon in Geneva on March 29, 2007, product literature, leather wallet, setting pin, winding box and outer packaging.
Collectors have been attracted to the reference 5059 thanks to its delightful proportions and luxurious elegance. The reference was introduced in 1998 to replace the previous reference 5050, the first serially produced perpetual calendar with a retrograde date by Patek Philippe. Officially discontinued in 2006, it was produced in all four precious metals. The pink gold case of the present watch is beautifully designed, curvaceous and gentle, the officer style case has a hinged caseback and elongated lugs with screwed pins. Though the case diameter measures 36mm, the shape and size of the lugs, as well as the thickness of the case and its domed bezel, give the 5059 a significant presence on the wrist. The reference 5059 houses the inhouse Patek Philippe self-winding caliber 315 S-QR with its striking 21K gold rotor, based on the caliber 315 SC featuring center seconds only. A robust and state-of-the-art in-house movement, it features an intriguing retrograding date complication as part of its perpetual calendar function. At the end of each month, the date hand automatically flies back to its original starting point – a very difficult function to reliably implement in watchmaking. The present perpetual calendar is offered by the original owner and bought at the Patek Philippe salon in Geneva, it is in excellent overall condition and is offered with all of its original boxes, papers, and certificate of origin.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5059R
191.
An unworn attractive stainless steel wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2016
Reference No.
15202
Movement No.
966’770
Case No.
J00129-6204
Model Name
Royal Oak
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,300-42,700 €18,100-36,200 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet fitted box, outer packaging, Warranty dated September 19, 2016, Authentification and Register Certificate, and instructions for use.
The Royal Oak 15202 has hit all the right notes with collectors around the world, so much so that the waiting list for the steel model stretches out into years! Collectors consider the reference 15202 as THE modern Royal Oak to have as it shares all the attributes with regards to case size, movement and overall looks to the now iconic reference 5402. Originally launched in 1972 the watch had a 39mm steel case housing the slim automatic caliber 2121 (which at the time was the world’s thinnest automatic caliber only 2.45mm thick). The present example is a modern representative of this landmark line of wristwatches. Reference 15202 was launched in 2000, and then again re-issued in 2012 in celebration of the model’s 40th anniversary and is powered by the same caliber 2121 which this time, contrary to the original model, can be admired through the sapphire caseback. The present Royal Oak reference 15202 was purchased in 2016 and was consigned to us by the original owner with its original wrapping from the luxury watch retailer Arije in Paris. A video posted in the online catalogue gives you the opportunity to participate in the unpacking of this iconic watch, which has never been worn and comes complete with box, hang tag and guarantee. Audemars Piguet has officially announced the discontinuation of this model in 2021, making the present watch even more collectible.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 15202 Royal Oak “Jumbo”
192.
A fine and rare stainless steel wristwatch with date, moonphases, power reserve, bracelet, certificate of origin and presentation box, factory sealed
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2005
Reference No.
3712/1A
Movement No.
3’169’780
Case No.
4’340’413
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless Steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240 PS IRM C LU, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $53,400-107,000 €45,200-90,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, hang tag, setting pin, product literature, leather wallet, and cardboard box. Furthermore accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 2005 and its subsequent sale on July 27, 2005.
First introduced in 2005, Patek Philippe’s reference 3712/1A remained in production for approximately one year, with some estimating as few as eight months. Reference 3712/1A was at the time of its launch, the most complicated version of the Nautilus made by Patek Philippe, which had previously only indicated the date or featured a power reserve. The present example features a power reserve, moon phases, and a subsidiary dial for constant seconds. The recognizable nautilus bracelet gives this watch a sporty, yet classic look, making it versatile and wearable for multiple occasions. At first glance, the 3712 appears quite similar to its successor, the 5712, but there are many noteworthy differences when the details are examined. Most notably, the 3712 has a slightly smaller case measuring 42mm in diameter as it is constructed using only two pieces compared with the more rounded, tripartite 43mm case of the 5712. The dial of the reference 3712 features wider grooves, or channels, and different hour markers than its successor. Still factory sealed and as such preserved in excellent condition, this watch is sure to please most Patek Philippe collectors. The reference 3712 is amongst the rarest of all variants of the Nautilus, making it extremely sought after. It is further accompanied by its original accessories and certificate of origin.
Stock photo, not the actual watch.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3712/1A “Sealed”
193.
An extremely elegant, fine and rare limited edition platinum chronograph wristwatch with luminous date, power reserve indication, subsidiary dials, outer track, guarantee and presentation box, numbered 95 of a limited edition of 200 pieces
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2019
Reference No.
405.034
Movement No.
136’582
Case No.
235’800 and 095/200
Model Name
Datograph Up/Down “Lumen”
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. L951.7, 46 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum A. Lange & Söhne deployant clasp
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Dial, case, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-150,000 $107,000-160,000 €90,400-136,000 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne guarantee stamped Wempe dated 29th April, 2019, instruction manual, product literature, cloth, leather folio, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph is arguably one of the most fascinating chronograph wristwatches produced by a modern manufacture. With a beautiful combination of traditional watchmaking and fine aesthetics, the Datograph displays a well-balanced dial layout on the front and when flipped to the movement side, it displays its in-house manual movement, expertly finished throughout with Glashütte stripes and signature hand-engraved balance cock.
The oversized date window display particular to Lange wristwatches and inspired by the Dresden Semper Opera clock crowns the dial atop simplified and highly legible seconds and minute counters.Traditionally produced in platinum and rose gold with a solid black dial, the “Lumen” transcends a completely fresh appeal to the famed model. First introduced in December 2018, the Datograph “Lumen” was launched as a limited edition series of 200 pieces. Differentiating from its regular peers, the dial is where the magic happens. With a complex construction of the main dial in tinted sapphire, the translucency allows the main plate below to be exhibited, proudly displaying its precise perlage finish on the surface. Although many may think that the implementation of the tinted sapphire was purely for aesthetics, it serves an important purpose. The tinted sapphire dial allows the luminous material to absorb UV rays from daylight to be luminous at night. This feature applies to all luminous components on the dial including the tachymeter scale, subsidiary dials, date and power reserve indicator. Without haste, the “Lumen” bears the same legendary caliber L951.7 as the regular model. Referred by many as one of the most impressive chronograph movements, the caliber consists of an impressive 454 components in total. The present example Datograph “Lumen” numbered 95 of a limited edition of 200 pieces is presented in “like new” condition and complete of all accessories that came with the watch. This is an important opportunity for the most discerned connoisseurs of A. Lange & Söhne to acquire a highly attractive, rare and sought after limited edition Datograph in pristine condition.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Ref. 405.034 Datograph Up/Down “Lumen”
194.
A highly rare and attractive pink gold and ceramic limited edition chronograph wristwatch with date
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 2009
Reference No.
26284RO
Movement No.
709’966
Case No.
043/275 and G59322
Model Name
Royal Oak Offshore
scan for more info
Limited Edition Rubens Barrichello Material
18K pink gold and ceramic
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2326/2840, 54 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 ∑ $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600
Since the launch of the Royal Oak Offshore in 1993, Audemars Piguet has collaborated with a number of sports and celebrity legends to launch daring and imaginative offshore designs. To commemorate Barrichello’s remarkable racing career, Audemars Piguet released a collaborative series of limitededition variations of the Royal Oak Offshore. The present reference 26284RO.OO.D002CR.01 was launched in 2008 as the third and final rendition. Limited to only 257 pieces, it is also considered one of the most striking Offshore models released. The present watch is preserved in excellent condition and is numbered 43 of a 257 pieces limited edition series.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 26284RO Offshore “The Rubens Barrichello”
195.
UNIVERSAL — An extremely rare and virtually “new old stock” triple calendar chronograph wristwatch with luminous dial
Manufacturer
Universal
Year
Circa 1950
Reference No.
22279
Movement No.
263’922
Case No.
1156078
Model Name
Tri-Compax
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 287, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel vintage Universal buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 5,000-10,000 $5,300-10,700 €4,500-9,000
The history of Universal Genève mirrors that of the history of the chronograph wristwatch. Founded in 1894 in Le Locle as Universal Watch, the brand initially began as a workshop assembling watch parts. However, by the early 20th-century the founders patented their first 24-hour timepiece. During World War I, they manufactured pocket watches and wristwatches for both sides of the war effort. In 1936, Universal
Genève released their first Aero Compax model and it is from this beginning that collectors today appreciate their timepieces, with names such as Uni-Compax, Tri-Compax, and the famed Polerouter designed by Gerald Genta. Today, Universal’s chronograph wristwatches are highly sought after both for their modern mid-20th century aesthetic, fascinating dial variations, and superb quality. The present Tri-Compax is distinguished by its impressive and virtually “new old stock” condition. The dial barely shows any sign of aging, and the case remains as crisp as it was the day it left the factory. Such gems hardly appear on the market, no less is such untouched and original condition. As an added detail, it is even accompanied by its original vintage strap.
196.
H. MOSER & CIE — A highly rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black lacquer dial
Manufacturer
H. Moser & Cie
Year
Circa 1945
Case No.
172’735
Material
Stainless steel
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Steel buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Dial signed and case numbered
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,500-12,800 €7,200-10,800
Displaying a generously sized 38mm case, the present chronograph by H. Moser & Cie is an incredibly well-preserved specimen. Boasting a stepped bezel and a beautiful lacquer dial, it exudes 1950s flair, and even has design similarities to the better known Longines “Tre Tacche” of the same period. The dial condition is particularly remarkable, as it is still very glossy in appearance with hardly any signs of aging. The case too is preserved in excellent condition with crisp edges and defined facets. Without a doubt, this watch was incredibly modern for its period - not unlike the Moser that we know today - known for always pushing the boundaries of horological innovation
197.
A very rare stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds, revolving bezel and bracelet
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1960
Reference No.
2913-3
Movement No.
16’719’940
Model Name
Seamaster 300
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 500, 17 jewels, stamped “OXG”
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega bracelet stamped “6” to the endlinks, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
39 mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
“1 59”
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,300-42,700 €18,100-36,200 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch on October 24, 1960.
Launched to commemorate Omega’s 100th anniversary in 1948, the first Seamaster was quite different to the diver’s watches we think of when this name is mentioned today. Whereas the first models were simply waterproof - nonetheless a momentous achievement for the time - it wasn’t until the launch of the Seamaster 300 in 1957 that one can see the
features today strongly linked with diver’s timepieces, such as the revolving bezel or the black luminous high legibility dial. Officially rated water resistant up to 200 meters - the maximum depth to which the company could test its timepieces back then- it is fitted with a bidirectional bezel graduated for 60 minutes and broad arrow hands to improve legibility. The present Seamaster 300, reference CK 2913-3 stands out, not only because it features the iconic “Broad Arrow” and “Lollipop” hands - which in many instances get lost to various services over the years - but also thanks to its very appealing condition especially of dial and bezel: without a mark or scratch on its surface, the dial is virtually pristine, the only hint of the passage of time being the color of the luminous material which is now a strong camel/chestnut hue. The presence of the original “bamboo” bracelet - produced in the first trimester of 1959 as stamped on the clasp - further enhances the attractiveness and originality of this example. The Seamaster is the Omega model with the longest production run - being still in production today - and the reference 2913 is one of the most sought-after timepieces of this line in virtue of the fact that it is a precursor to this incredibly long lived lineage, and the first Omega to don the cloak of “diver’s watch” as modernly intended.
OMEGA Ref. 2913-3 Seamaster 300
198.
A very rare and early stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
Circa 1959
Reference No.
2998-1
Movement No.
17’301’483
Model Name
Speedmaster
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega semi-expandable bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “7912”
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch on May 30, 1960 and its subsequent sale to the US Aviation Associated Foreign Exchange Base (AFEX).
Omega’s original Speedmaster, reference 2915, was the first tool watch to feature a tachymeter scale on the bezel instead of to the dial, which had been the norm for chronograph wristwatches throughout the 1930s, 40s, and 50s. This innovative design would be a game changer and within a few years, it was employed by many brands. First released in 1957, the reference 2915 featured the foundations for all future
Speedmaster timepieces, and it is from this lineage the series of reference 2998 was born. Released in 1959, early examples like the present watch used the famed Lemania caliber 321, which is revered amongst watch enthusiasts for its robust chronograph mechanism. The manual wound caliber was used by Omega from 1946-1968, and while small in size at 27mm diameter, it offered optimal performance and reliability. Reference 2998 was in production for only 4 years (1959-1963) but during that time 8 case variations were made (-1, -2, -3, -4, -5, -6, -61, -62), indicating how intensively Omega was updating their designs. The present -1 example is one of the earliest made: the -1 variation is found with serial numbers between 17’301’xxx and 17-761’xxx. The present piece bears movement no. 17’301’483, indicating it is one of the very first example to leave Omega’s workshop. Furthermore, it presents a remarkably well preserved and attractive dial, most notably the luminous material of hands and indexes has aged to an intense camel hue, enormously amplifying the charm and vintage vibe of the piece. It is interesting to know that while this is of course a pre-moon model, reference 2998 was the first Omega in space (albeit unofficially): it flew on the wrist on astronaut Wally Schirra as his personal watch in October 1962. An intriguing historical detail is found in the extract from the archives. It states that the watch was originally sold to the Associated Foreign Exchange Base (AFEX) of the US Aviation.
OMEGA Ref. 2998-1 Speedmaster
199.
A rare and extremely well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1970
Reference No.
6241
scan for more info
Movement No. Case No.
2’372’765
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “7835 19” and “571” to the endlinks, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “4 71”
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $53,400-107,000 €45,200-90,400 Accessories Accompanied by additional leather strap with Rolex stainless steel pin buckle, Rolex fitted presentation box and outer packaging
Introduced to the market in 1966, the reference 6241 is the acrylic bezel companion to the metal bezel reference 6239, and thus it features non-screw chronograph pushers. Approximately 3,000 examples were produced during a relatively short, four-year production run. The condition of this 1970 example is superlative. Most notably, the dial of is preserved in absolutely stellar condition, without any mark or scratch to be noticed and fully retaining all of its original luminous material, which has with time aged to an immensely attractive ivory tonality. The pristine sunburst silver finishing captures the eye immediately, with its clean and spacious layout reflecting light beautifully and constantly changing according to its incidence. The presence of an additional leather strap - complete with Rolex buckle - gives the owner the flexibility to wear it on steel for a more casual look, or on leather in case of more formal occasions.
RO L E X Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona
200.
An attractive and rare pink gold chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1962
Reference No.
130
Movement No.
869’087
Case No.
699’994
Material
18k pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gold plated pin buckle
Dimensions
33mm DIameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $32,000-53,400 €27,100-45,200 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1962 with silvered dial, raised gold indexes and tachymeter scale and its subsequent sale on September 28th, 1962.
It is incredible how the Patek Philippe ref 130 chronograph dials perfectly reflect the period when the watch was made. Considering the long production period of this reference (from 1934 to the mid 1960s) the model was made in yellow gold, pink gold, stainless steel, or a mix thereof including a variety of dials whether it be sector, black, or with Breguet numerals. The present example in pink gold from the last years of production stands out with its well preserved case featuring a deep crisp hallmark on the side, and a no-frills ivory dial with baton indexes and raised enamel signature.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 130
201.
An unusual and incredibly rare yellow gold wristwatch with hooded lugs
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1951
Reference No.
2560
Movement No.
727’124
Case No.
685’475
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-400, 18 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
scan for more info
stamped twice with the Geneva Seal
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,300-42,700 €18,100-36,200 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1951 and its subsequent sale May 24, 1957.
In the 1950s, Patek Philippe began a gradual process of design experimentalism which moved gradually away from the standard round cases predominant for the previous 2 decades. This process brought eventually to the world whimsical creations such as the Gilbert Albert-designed pieces, the 2442 “Marylin Monroe” or the 2441 “Tour Eiffel”. The obscure reference 2560 is indeed a child of this time, the experimentalism evident with the unusual hooded lugs employed on this case. The case was made by Le Locle based casemaker “Cedex, Charles Dubois SA”, identified by the number 170 in the hammerhead. Interestingly, the Dubois family had three branches, all of them into the case making business and each identifies by a different number (the other two being 171 and 172). Even the most knowledgeable connoisseur of vintage watches may be stumped when admiring this exquisite timepiece, and with good reason. Reference 2560 appears to be one of the most elusive models in all of Patek Philippe’s production: so far only two pieces, including this example, have appeared on the market. The other known reference 2560 appeared at auction in 1997 and now resides in the Patek Philippe museum, making this specimen, the only one publicly available. A timepiece for the collector who wants to merge whimsical looks with the highest tier of exclusivity.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2560 “The Elusive”
202.
An attractive and very well preserved stainless steel wristwatch with gas escape value, date, “double red” Mk IV dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1975
Reference No.
scan for more info
1665 inside caseback stamped with repeated serial number 4’059’066
Movement No.
D’204’900
Case No.
4’059’066
Model Name
Sea-Dweller “Double Red”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1520, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped 78360, endlinks stamped 589, max length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex flip lock deployant clasp
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,300-42,700 €18,100-36,200 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex fitted box and punched guarantee.
When the Rolex Submariner was launched in 1953, it represented Rolex’s answer to the demands of the fast-growing community of recreational scuba divers, at the time a novel sport. Soon, however, the company realised that it could also provide diver’s watches to professional institutions - such as COMEX - and began a joined Research & Development process with these companies to adapt the Submariner to the stricter
requirements of professional diving endeavours. The results of this process is a series of “upgraded” Submariner watches featuring improved water resistance and the ingenious addition of a helium escape valve developed to avoid the glass popping out of the watch during decompression. In 1971, a civilian version of these timepieces was launched with the Sea-Dweller line, taking its name by the underwater habitats into which the scientists, and their watches, would dwell for extended periods of time. The present piece belongs to this line of highly advanced divers’ wristwatches, and it is a specimen from the so-called “Double Red” series, featuring two lines of red text. This detail would later be replaced by full white graphics: the so-called “Great White” Sea-Dweller in 1977. Interestingly, the early examples of reference 1665 bear either the last three digits or - such as the present watch - the full serial number inside the caseback, a highly unusual detail for a standard production Rolex wristwatch. Normally, such a practice was adopted by the company for special order timepieces. The dial of the Double Red Sea-Dweller presents an evolution over time, each iteration identified as a Mark. This specimen features a Mark 4 dial– characterised by the grainy print and perfectly aligned D and R of “Dweller” and “Submariner” as well as having the “Double Red” letterings vivid and clear with the font of the red lettering notably larger on the top line. Manufactured in 1975, the present watch is a true testament of Rolexes advanced research technologies and forward thinking, it is further accompanied by its original box and punched papers and is preserved in incredibly crisp condition with its caseback sticker partially intact.
RO L E X Ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller “The Untouched Double Red”
203.
A highly rare and attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with spider lugs, retailed by Hausmann & Co.
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1949
Reference No.
1579
Movement No.
667’686
Case No.
657’556
Model Name
“Anse a Ragno”
Material
18k pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’ 130, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold PPCo pin buckle
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 $107,000-213,000 €90,400-181,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1949 and its subsequent sale on June 16, 1950.
Along with the reference 591 with “bean lugs”, Patek Philippe’s reference 1579 is the only model from the famed Geneva brand with architectural lugs which are in the shape of briolette diamonds. Thanks to these unusual faceted lugs, the reference 1579 is also referred to as the “spider” lug chronograph, and features one of the most impressive case designs from the mid20th century. Released in 1943 at Basel Fair and in production until 1964, the 35.5mm diameter Wenger case with faceted downturned lugs and rectangular chronograph buttons has an unconventional look that remains sophisticated with an elegant appeal.
Reference 1579 was made in two different series: • 1st series from 1943 to 1949: Arabic and baton numerals, baton or feuille hands • 2nd series from 1950 to 1964: Arabic and square numerals, feuille hands like the present watch The present reference 1579 stands out not only thanks to its general state of preservation but also to its rare pink gold case of which only 87 are known. Enhancing even more its desirability and transforming rare into extraordinary is the Hausmann signature on the dial of the present lot. Founded in Rome in 1794 by Ernst Hausmann and Hermann Frielingsdorf, Hausmann & Co. is one of Patek Philippe’s most prominent retailers in Italy. The present reference 1579 in pink gold is one of only four known with this prestigious signature. The present watch was originally owned by Formula 1 driver, Alessandro Nannini. Nannini started his driving carreer in 1983 at the 24 Hours Le Mans race where his driving skills were noticed by Minardi who signed him up to his F1 team in in 1985. The car was unreliable but speed was noticed by Benetton who signed him up in 1988. On 12 October 1990, the week after the 1990 Spanish Grand Prix, where he had finished third, Nannini was involved in a helicopter crash which put an end to his career in F1. In 1989 Nannini was the winner of the Japanese Grand Prix in Suzuka and to celebrate his first win he gifted himself the present reference 1579 in pink gold. A watch that he later offered to his son who has decided to part with it hoping it will go to an enthusiast who could appreciate the double “provenance” of Hausmann and Nannini.
Courtesy The Nannini Family
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 1579 “The Alessandro Nannini”
204
A very fine and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1986
Reference No.
scan for more info
6265 inside caseback stamped 6263
Case No.
9’552’628
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
“Big Red” Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “78350,19”, endlinks stamped “571”, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
“N2” and “78350”
Estimate CHF 50,000-80,000 $53,400-85,400 €45,200-72,300
Reference 6265 was introduced to the market in approximately 1969 and ceased production in the late 1980s. The model features screw down pushers and thus carries an “Oyster” designation on the dial. It is powered by caliber 727, a Rolex upgrade of Valjoux caliber 72 and the final evolution of this movement (following cal. 72A, 72B, 722, and 722-1). From the late 80s, with reference 16520, Rolex started to employ an El Primero based movement in the Cosmograph. Today, reference 6265 is extremely sought after amongst watch enthusiasts around the world, mainly due to the watch’s impressive look, technological finesse and presence in popular culture. Most remarkably, the “Daytona” signature was completed in enlarged red font, as seen on the present watch. This attention-grabbing feature is dubbed by watch collectors as “Big Red”, and is highly coveted by collectors. The present watch, manufactured around 1986, is a later generation example, and is distinguished by the Oyster triplock 700 series crown - characterised by three raised dots under Rolex coronet, fitted on last productions. This highly exceptional reference 6265 displays all the features one looks for in a Cosmograph Daytona, the dial is as crisp and all luminous dots are present and intact making this lot an incredible opportunity for Rolex connoisseur that should not be missed.
RO L E X Ref. 6265 Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
205.
A highly rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
6241
Case No.
2’036’657
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
scan for more info
“Paul Newman” Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2.65
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 $107,000-213,000 €90,400-181,000
Reference 6241 was produced approximately from 1966 to 1969. Scholars estimate that no more than 3000 pieces were produced during the model’s manufacture period, and only a small part of them with “Paul Newman” dials. Featuring a dial configuration identical to Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” watch, this reference 6241 is an exceptional example with an incredibly crisp case and extremely well-preserved dial. Of particular note is the slanted “T Swiss T” designation at 6 o’clock, which is a particularity of references 6239 and 6241. Its “Paul Newman” successors on reference 6262 and 6264 would feature a flat “T Swiss T” at 6 o’clock. This particular ivory white dial displays hardly any signs of aging, and the luminous dots remain full and intact. Furthermore, the case is preserved in incredibly crisp condition with sharp facets. Other details on this timepiece include the Mk 1 bezel, which is correct for reference 6241 and gives the watch a lot of presence on the wrist.
RO L E X Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
206.
A very rare, collectible and refined yellow gold perpetual calendar automatic wristwatch with moonphases and German calendar
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1984
Reference No.
3450
Movement No.
1’119’688
Case No.
2’805’696
scan for more info
Model Name
“Padellone”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 27-460Q, 37 jewels, stamped twice
Bracelet/Strap
Patek Philippe alligator strap
with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 150,000-250,000 ∑ $160,000-267,000 €136,000-226,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1984 and its subsequent sale on February 20, 1984.
Launched in 1981, reference 3450 was the successor to reference 3448 - Patek Philippe’s very first automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch. While aesthetically similar to reference 3448, it most notably features a leap year indicator on the dial. In addition, its case back is slightly smaller and is fitted with a “tongue”, enabling it to be easily removed.
It in fact is the first serially made Patek Philippe wristwatch featuring leap year indication allowing for an easier setting of the exact date; earlier models required a potentially very lengthy synchronisation procedure to manually identify the leap year and then advance to the current year in the cycle. The present watch, manufactured in 1985, is a representative of the “second series” of reference 3450s. While the first generation examples were fitted with a “red dot” to indicate the leap year, second generation examples displayed Roman numerals I, II, III and IV, like the present model. Patek Philippe produced very limited quantities of reference 3450, typically casing the model in yellow gold. To date, scholars estimate that Patek Philippe produced only 237 examples in total, making it one of the rarest Patek Philippe perpetual calendar models ever produced in series. The present example is a rare variation of the model as it features German calendar discs - as opposed to the English ones usually found on the model. Only 12 examples of second series 3450 in yellow gold are known with this calendar. This specimen was last seen on the public market in Geneva in 2002, it is a pleasure for us to bring back to the public this lost gem nearly 20 years after its last appearance.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3450 “Padellone”
207.
A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial, bracelet, warranty and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1972
Reference No.
6265 inside caseback
scan for more info
stamped 6262 Case No.
2’851’471
Model Name
Oyster Cosmograph
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped 7835
and 1970s, to the early 21st-century as being the number one most sought after collectors’ watch, it is an iconic timepiece, which few will own, but all will appreciate. The astute collector will note that the present reference 6263 correctly has screw down pushers but the dial lacks the “Oyster” print on the dial.
“Paul Newman”
19, endlinks stamped 271, max length 195mm Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 4.71
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 150,000-250,000 $160,000-267,000 €136,000-226,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee, product literature, product literature, fitted box and outer packaging.
Many elements make vintage watches attractive, it could be their rarity, technical mastery, aesthetic beauty, the story they tell or even the mystery that shrouds them. The present watch is all of the above. The Rolex Cosmograph, especially with the so called “Paul Newman” dials has gone from relative obscurity in the 1960s
The watch being consigned by the original owner, was bought in this configuration in 1978 at Bijouterie Arnautou in Pau (France). The dial layout matches perfectly the “Paul Newman” dials made in 1972, date of production of the present watch. This leads us to believe that the dial most probably came from a non-Oyster Daytona and was mounted by the retailer on this piece, upon request of a client wishing to have a screw down pusher model with this dial configuration. Or, that the mistake was made at Rolex when the watch was assembled. One must not look at this swap or mistake with eyes of 2021 but those of 1972 where the Daytona cost a few hundred dollars and dial exchanges were common practice. The owner was originally a fighter pilot for the French Airforce. After leaving the army, he took up a career as a commercial pilot with Air France, and it was to celebrate this event that in 1978 he bought this watch. Many photos from the 70s-80s show him wearing the watch in this present configuration. Preserved in overall very appealing condition and accompanied by its original paperwork and box, the present mysterious reference 6265 “Paul Newman” offers a very exciting combination of Oyster case and “Paul Newman” dial with red outer track.
RO L E X Ref. 6265 Oyster Cosmograph “The One-Owner-Since-New Paul Newman”
208.
A superlatively fine, rare and important pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases and German calendar
Every 2499 is what horological dreams are made of, for any collector. Early examples of the reference in particular, such as second or first series pieces, are considered the Olympus of collecting. When however a second series example comes dressed in pink, it can be considered the absolute apogee of high-end vintage wristwatch collecting. The reason behind such a legendary status is multifaceted, with roots in the aesthetics of the watch as well as in its execution and production history. HISTORICAL CONTEXT Reference 2499 is the second - and last vintage - serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases model launched by the brand. Introduced in 1950, it succeeded (and partly overlapped with) reference 1518 (1941-1954). Mechanically, it shares the same 13 lignes 130 chronographe calibre with the addition of the calendar/ moonphase module, based on a Valjoux ébauche heavily modified in-house. With this movement, Patek Philippe “institutionalized” an aesthetic language that has been since then employed on virtually all the models with this complication: an extremely balanced three-counter, twowindow architecture which manages to convey the wealth of information given by the watch without feeling overly encumbered. So entangled is this line of timepieces with the history of the company, that it is the only line which has been in continuous production from its inception until nowadays, with five main models so far (1518, 2499, 3970, 5970 and 5270).
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2499 Second Series “The Hanseatic Rose”
208.
A superlatively fine, rare and important pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases and German calendar
The technical supremacy of a company who manages to serially manufacture perpetual calendar (not even considering the additional complications!) timepieces beginning from the 1940s is beyond praise: to put it in perspective, the only other company to try something similar was Audemars Piguet with perpetual calendar (no additional complication) reference 5516. That model was in production for about 4 years (1955-1958), for a total output of 9 pieces. By then, Patek had already made all the 281 examples of ref. 1518, and production of ref. 2499 had been on for six years. This also helps us to understand the, already back then, incredible power of this brand. It is important to take note of the fact that reference 1518 (and its chronograph-less counterpart ref. 1526) was launched in 1941 amidst the full swing of WWII. Patek Philippe clientele was however so selected that the war had virtually no impact on the sale of the watches - with actually waiting lists already back then. The same situation occurred - magnified by the peace time - with reference 2499.
STYLE CONSIDERATIONS While technically superb, part of the charm of the reference is to be attributed to its design. It would be only slightly hyperbolic to state that the design of this model is to be considered the pinnacle of watchmaking design - all ages, all brands, all timepieces included. While this might be arguable - and in fact scores of watch enthusiasts already had such an argument - it is undeniable that the design of the model is a lesson in balance and elegance.
Its progenitor ref. 1518 was a son of its time - a wartime - and thus the design was highly inspired by the Bauhaus aesthetic mantra “form follows function” (today reinterpreted as “less is more”): an extremely elegant and compact, no-frills timepiece which is still today considered a champion of Patek Philippe’s understatement. Reference 2499 was instead designed after wartime, and the promises and hopes of such a vibrant era are apparent in its design. The diameter was enlarged from 35mm to 36mm (and later 37.5), a major departure from the restrained aesthetics codes so far employed. The architecture of the case manages to achieve what might have seemed an impossibility: a perfect balance of flair and restrain. The watch feels incredibly luxurious and peculiar, possibly even borderline flamboyant, but never in slightest excessive or overdone. The case architecture is extremely complex: the concave bezel is contrasted by a convex bad. Edges and curves abound everywhere. The lugs - possibly the most iconic detail of the reference feature a sculpted groove to the outer edge which manages to impart a feeling that is both imposing and airy at the same time. Many of these details have been employed on later models and some references - going as far as ref. 5016 and 5004, in production until the early 2010s - still feature virtually the same case, with minor adaptations.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2499 Second Series “The Hanseatic Rose”
TECHNICAL DETAILS AND PRODUCTION The first examples of ref. 2499 date back to 1949/1950, and the model was discontinued in 1985. The total production adds up to 349 pieces in yellow and pink gold, and 2 additional “extra series” platinum pieces. The existence of an extremely restricted number of white gold pieces has been speculated but never confirmed. As mentioned, the movement was based an a Valjoux ébauche modified and finished to the highest standard, and sometimes stamped with the Geneva Seal (but not always: there seem to be no logic in regard to which examples bear the Seal and which ones do not). No relevant modification to the movement has been implemented throughout the entire production cycle. Case and dial instead present a marked evolution, and four series are recognised. The present pink gold example belongs to the second series. Second series cases are markedly different from those belonging to the first series: the square chronograph pushers of the first series (inherited from ref. 1518) are abandoned and in their place we find round pushers, more modern and in tone with the then-current fashion. Scholarship was hesitant on whether round pusher cases were made exclusively by one casemaker - Wenger. Some Vichet examples were rumoured to have appeared in the past, but no consensus had been reached. In December 2019 the question was finally closed with the appearance at Phillips New York of an example of a Vichet case reference 2499 with round pushers. The details of the dial remain the same between first and second series (most notably, the presence of the tachymeter scale), but second series dials are known with either Arabic or baton numerals rather than just Arabic as found in first series specimens. Second series pieces were made, like first series examples, for about a decade between the mid 1950s and mid 1960s circa. The present 1953 specimen is one of the earliest second series made. The second series pink gold production is extremely rarified, with 8 examples with Wenger case known from the market. Scholars agree that the total production should be at most 10 pieces. While any 2499 is rightfully to be considered a dream watch, pink gold examples are empyrean timepieces, object which collectors spend decades striving to acquire, and often with no success.
208.
A superlatively fine, rare and important pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases and German calendar
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1957
Reference No.
2499
Movement No.
868’613
Case No.
696’525
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
stamped twice with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 1,500,000-3,000,000 $1,600,000-3,200,000 €1,360,000-2,710,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1957 with silvered dial and raised gold indexes, and its subsequent sale on October 31, 1961.
It is not just an economic problem: the innate rarity of these watches - with a combined total output estimated at between 30 and 40 pieces: about 10% of the production - coupled with the attachment collectors feel for them, mean they hardly ever appear on the market, furthermore in such attractive condition. Without a doubt one of the best preserved 2499 cases to appear on the market, the present example perfectly preserves
its original proportions, and the presence of an extremely crisp hallmark to the outer side of the lugs - a highly sensitive location for an hallmark - is a telltale sign of the honesty of the piece. If that was not enough, the watch features a hardly ever seen detail: the Helvetia poinçon, gold title and Wenger’s Poinçon de Maître (number 1, inscribed into a Key) lightly stamped to the outside of the caseback. This location would be very sensitive not only to polishing, but to normal wear (the wrist rubbing against the back) as well. The fact that these stamps are so well preserved indicates that the watch was truly scarcely used. The dial as well is in absolutely honest condition, without a trace of restoration. A subtle ivory dial patina enhances the warmth of the pink gold case; the calendar windows present sharp edges, and all engraved/enamelled graphics are absolutely present and unmolested. An additional highly distinguished trait of this watch is the very short and transparent history of its owners. The piece remained in the same German family until its sale in 2010, and the buyers at that sale is now offering this watch making it a two-owner piece. The German heritage of the original owners perfectly matches the German calendar found on this timepiece. In fact, the present pink gold second series is the only known featuring this exotic detail. Undeniably, this watch is a true trophy which would be counted among the proudest possession of any of the most important Patek Philippe collectors worldwide.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2499 Second Series “The Hanseatic Rose”
209.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A fine stainless steel automatic wristwatch, with center seconds, date, certificate and spare rubber strap
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1999
Reference No.
5065A
Movement No.
3’010’234
Case No.
4’047’811
Model Name
Aquanaut
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 315 SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Patek Philippe rubber strap
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe double deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 • $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped by “A. Türler” and dated September 15, 1999, additional Patek philippe rubber strap, product literature and document holder.
Launched in 1997, the Aquanaut presented a newer and more casual alternative to the Nautilus. In fact, however, the Aquanaut 5065 design originally made an appearance as part of the Nautilus line. This gold iteration was most likely a market test of a more elegant Nautilus variant (black flat dial, gold case, no bracelet) but, most probably spurred by the market feedback, the company eventually went the opposite way, offering with the Aquanaut an even sportier and younger line of watches than the Nautilus; the rubber strap - a choice that was extremely iconoclastic, especially for a brand as traditional as Patek Philippe - is a clear indication of this philosophy. The present 5065 is offered complete of its Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated 1999 and an additional rubber strap. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
210.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — An exceptional, attractive and large limited edition pink gold and titanium wristwatch with date, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 2019
Reference No.
15711OI
Movement No.
AN1’128
Case No.
K40’878
Model Name
Royal Oak Offshore Diver
Material
18k pink gold and titanium
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3120, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold Audemars Piguet pin buckle.
Dimensions
42 mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-25,000 $12,800-26,700 €10,800-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet original International Warranty Card, product literature and outer packaging.
First introduced at the SIHH in 2018, the AP Royal Oak Offshore Diver reference 15711OI is fitted with an 18K pink gold case and a titanium bezel, titanium plots, and a light grey dial with matching grey rubber strap. Truly, this watch is simply elegant. Its uncomplicated yet captivating aesthetics makes this watch simple and fascinating. With a 42mm diameter case and a display case back revealing the AP calibre 3120, what separates the Diver from the other AP collections is the crown. Rather than being rubber clad, the crown is made in grey ceramic, following the monochromatic colour pattern of its case. Featuring an 18k pink gold and titanium case, the watch is water-resistant to 300 meters. The dial looks remarkably distinctive, featuring large hands with SuperLuminova coating and long hour batons which render the watch intact and easily legible – a critical characteristic for a diver’s chronograph. The inner rotating bezel looks exceptionally striking with 8 screws that seem to heighten the watch’s robust presence. The present watch is a daring timepiece created for daring collectors.
211.
A highly rare and attractive pink gold dual time wristwatch with date, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2020
Reference No.
126715CHNR
scan for more info
Case No.
380861N1
Model Name
GMT-Master II
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3285, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated August 12, 2020, product literature, hang tag, presentation box and outer packaging.
Launched at Baselworld in 2018, the GMT-Master II in Everose gold was an instant success, and instantly a new icon. Hefty and eye-catching, it was a luxurious alternative to the stainless steel tool watch. At the time of launch, it was the first serially produced GMT-Master to be cased only in Everose. Everose gold was introduced by Rolex in 2005 and consists of an alloy of yellow gold, copper and platinum. Adding platinum in the gold combination allows the case to keep its pink tone over the years. The present model is offered in excellent condition, and is replete with all its original accessories.
RO L E X Ref. 126715CHNR GMT-Master II
212.
A rare and attractive pink gold pilot’s dual-time wristwatch with date, day and night indicator, certificate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2019
Reference No.
5524R
Movement No.
7’189’659
Case No.
6’281’294
Model Name
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
Material
18K pink gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 S C FUS, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-35,000 $26,700-37,400 €22,600-31,600 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated June 28, 2019, setting pin, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
The Patek Philippe reference 5524 was first introduced to the public in Baselworld 2015. Taking inspiration from the past, it was inspired by the manufacture’s pilot watches of the 1930s but was extremely sporty in nature: it displayed an incredibly modern dial, along with an enlarged case size. Originally introduced to the market only in white gold, Patek Philippe launched the pink gold version, such as the present example, with a stunning bronze dial in 2018 Baselworld. To date, only one other iteration of the present example has appeared on the auction market, underscoring the rarity of this timepiece. The present watch is offered in excellent, barely worn condition and is accompanied by all its original accessories such as the Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated June 28, 2019, setting pin, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5524R Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
213.
ROLEX — A very attractive and well preserved white gold wristwatch with date and bracelet Manufacturer
Year
Circa 1976
Reference No.
1601
Movement No.
D’093’187
Case No.
5’133’116
Model Name
Datejust
Material
18k white gold
Rolex
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18k white gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
18k white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-20,000 $12,800-21,300 €10,800-18,100
The Rolex Datejust is certainly one of the greatest watch designs of all time, close to 80 years old but without a wrinkle and with both feet fully set on tastes of today. It is also an extremely versatile watch that can be worn on a metal bracelet for a more debonaire look or on a leather strap for a pinch of formality. The legacy of Rolex’s Datejust reaches back to the early 1930s when the brand released their first automatic movement wristwatch with waterproof case and the designation “Oyster Perpetual”. Over the next decade the model became a bestseller, and in 1945 for the brand’s 40th anniversary, Rolex introduced the game changing “Datejust Jubilee” reference
4467 featuring an all-new movement with date aperture at the 3 o’clock position. It was a revolutionary new feature for Rolex that would serve as a foundation for the vast majority of watches Rolex would subsequently introduce. The original Rolex calibers A295, 730 and 1065 allowed the watch to instantaneously adjust the date at midnight. A few years later, in 1954, the Datejust would introduce the iconic cyclops date magnifier, an emblematic feature found on nearly all Rolex watches with a date aperture up to the present day. It was also at this time the brand expanded the collection with editions in steel, steel and gold, and rarely, in yellow, pink, or white gold. The reference 1601 was in production from 1959 until 1977 and featured a fluted bezel. The Datejust became one of the most sought-after timepieces and Rolex began to offer it with a variety of dial variations. The present example with stealth matte grey dial is very rare in white gold, particularly with the addition of the white gold bracelet. It is preserved in very appealing condition, with a strong case and crisp hallmarks.
214.
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with center seconds and rare textured bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1961
Reference No.
scan for more info
1806 inside caseback stamped 1803 and 1806
Movement No.
DD96750
Case No.
784’859
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1555, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex brick-link bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped 64
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,800-19,200 €10,800-16,300
Reference 1806 is distinguished by its textured linen pattern to the bezel and lugs, playfully dubbed the ‘Morellis’ finish. The reference is also stamped in the inside caseback, indicating the originality of the timepiece. The most defining feature of the present watch is the immaculate condition of the watch. The case is extremely sharp and still retains its delicate linentextured pattern, which is remarkable to see for a watch of its age. To complete the look, the watch is fitted with a patterned brick-link Rolex yellow gold bracelet to match the case design, which was entirely made by hand.
215.
ROLEX — A fine and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2006
Reference No.
116528
Case No.
D501’624
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 250mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “78498”
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 O $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated October 11, 2006, green card holder, hang tag, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.
The present Rolex reference 116528 was the first Cosmograph Daytona in yellow gold to feature the new self-winding movement calibre 4130 developed in-house in the year 2000.
Succeeding to the famed “Zenith” Daytona reference 16528 powered by the robust Zenith El Primero based cal. 4030, the present watch carries much of the same aesthetic as its predecessor. Made of solid 18K yellow gold, the watch stands out by its hefty weight and the warmness of its gold. Although part of the standard design of the Cosmograph Daytona collection, the dial of the reference 116528 has just the right amount of details to raise a smile - in some cases, even accompanied by a awe - on the lips of any discerning watch aficionado. Indeed, its matt black dial with champagne counters is suddenly awaken by a scarlet red chronograph hand and outer divisions. The juxtaposition of colours creates a playful contrast and gives the watch all the magnitude it deserves. Furthermore, it is preserved in excellent condition and the green factory sticker is still present on the case back. Originally developed to record speed of race cars on the racetrack, the present watch demystifies the sports tool watch and brings it to the ivy league of luxury timepieces. If you enjoy sports but, let’s be honest, prefer to watch it from the comfort of a box or a courtside seat, look no further this watch is for you.
216.
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive yellow gold, diamond and black sapphire set calendar wristwatch with center seconds, bracelet and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1980
Reference No.
18048
Movement No.
0’789’827
Case No.
6’410’472
scan for more info
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold, diamonds and black sapphire
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex service guarantee dated July 8, 2019, wallet, hang tag, presentation box and outer packaging.
Ever glamorous, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-finished designs. Since its inception in 1956, it remains one of the most surprising and diverse flagship models Rolex has ever produced. Apart from prototype models, the Day-Date has only been cased in precious metals, attesting to its glamour and prestige. This superlative Day-Date is fitted with a beautiful diamond pavé dial with black sapphire markers and diamond-set bezel that is indicated by “4” in the reference 18048. The timepiece furthermore retains its Rolex service seals. Preserved in excellent condition, the case displays crisp hallmarks beneath the lugs.
217.
A highly rare and attractive stainless steel and yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with “floating dial”, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1988
Reference No.
16523
Movement No.
13’105
Case No.
R985525
scan for more info
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold and stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel and yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78363, max length 175mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 $26,700-48,000 €22,600-40,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated December 5, 1989, product literature, hang tag, presentation box and outer packaging.
For the Daytona’s 25th anniversary, Rolex surprised the public at the 1988 Basel fair by introducing the first self winding chronograph model in its history. The newly launched reference model was powered by a derivative of Zenith’s El Primero caliber modified by Rolex. It was the first Daytona to be equipped with a sapphire crystal and a new larger diameter. Its launch was an immediate success, resulting in unprecedented demand that would require clients to have to wait as long as seven years to purchase one. Without a doubt, the new model elevated the Daytona to its current mythical status. This stainless steel and yellow gold Daytona, reference 16523, is part of the famous ‘R’ series from the 1st year of production in 1988. The watch is also fitted with the highly sought after black dial featuring the floating “Cosmograph” signature. Preserved in excellent condition and still retaining its caseback sticker, this timepeice is offered with its original guarantee from 1989, product literature and even box with the label “16523”. The watch also retains its original calibrated bezel graduated to 200 units per hour.
RO L E X Ref. 16523 Cosmograph Daytona “Floating Cosmograph”
218.
A rare and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with helium escape valve, bracelet, made for COMEX
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1982
Reference No.
scan for more info
16660, inside caseback stamped with repeated case number 7’336’515
Movement No.
0’779’722
Case No.
7’336’515
Model Name
Sea-Dweller “COMEX”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “592” and “93160” to the endlinks, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “S”, “V4”, and “93150”
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-70,000 $42,700-74,700 €36,200-63,300 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex International Service Guarantee dated November 02, 2020, and Rolex pouch.
Rolex reference 16660 was firstly introduced in 1978 and remained in production for only a decade, being discontinued in 1988. Sought-after by collectors and aficionados worldwide, the model is considered to be a transitional link between “old school” production and modern one.The watch was originally devised bearing a matte dial with tritium lume plots applied directly on it, later examples of reference 16660 feature goldrimmed indexes and gloss dial, traits which will come to define the later production of Rolex diver’s watches.The caseback as well presents an evolution; early versions read “Rolex Patent” where as later versions were changed to “Rolex Oyster Original Gas Escape Valve”. COMEX models, within the last decades have gained notability and rarity amongst the most avid Rolex aficionados. During the early days of deep sea exploration, Rolex worked with a number of experts in the field, including the Marseille-based company, COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises) - a specialist diving company for the oil industry. COMEX and Rolex enjoyed a special relationship, and many watches were issued to their specialist divers over the course of decades, with their casebacks and dials marked “COMEX”. Like many “issued” Rolex watches, the inside case backs of COMEX watches would bear the full serial number (or in some instances the last 3 digits) corresponding to the number found between the lugs at 6 o’clock.The watch is offered in overall great condition and is a true testament of Rolex’s true commitment to professional diver’s watch.
RO L E X Ref. 16660 Sea-Dweller “COMEX”
219.
A historically important professional divers watch made for the COMEX Janus dive programme
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1968
Reference No.
166.077
Movement No.
00’066’584
Model Name
Seamaster 600 “Ploprof”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1002, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega pin buckle
Dimensions
Width 54mm. Length 45mm.
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $32,000-53,400 €27,100-45,200 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confirming the watch was produced in Uranus steel and assembled internally by the prototype testing department in late 1968 to be delivered for active use in the Janus experimental dive by COMEX.
Famously developed with COMEX, the Seamaster 600 “Ploprof” is surely the world’s most uniquely designed dive watch. The massive 54mm case is hewn from a single block of “Uranus steel”, the very same metal that COMEX selected to build their ultra-resilient diving bells. The present watch is confirmed by the Extract from Omega’s archive as one of the very few assembled by the protype & testing department in 1968 for COMEX’s “active use in the Janus experimental dive”. Worn extensively by the divers testing the limits of technology and physiology in their underwater habitat this early 166.077, with very low 00066xxx movement number, sports a number of features that never made it to the civilian production models. Most striking is the rare, red, locking nut that secures the square crown between its two hulking guards, the patent for which was only submitted in October of the same year this piece was built. Although the red nut is pictured in early advertisements from 1970/71, by the time Omega made the watch commercially available, it had been replaced by a more pedestrian steel variant. Importantly, the deep blue dial is devoid of any depth rating, and has not yet ‘earned’ its Professional designation. Accordingly these dials, have only been found in the very earliest protype and pre-production models and matches the configuration on COMEX founder, Henri Delauze’s own prototype 600.
OMEGA Ref. 166.077 Seamaster 600 “Ploprof Janus Dive”
220.
An extremely rare and well preserved antimagnetic diver’s wristwatch with black glossy dial and humidity indicator
Manufacturer
Blancpain
Year
Circa 1960
Case No.
3201
Model Name
Fifty Fathoms Milspec I
Material
Copper based alloy case
Calibre
Automatic, cal. AS 1361,
Bracelet/Strap
NATO
scan for more info
17 jewels Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
41.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $32,000-53,400 €27,100-45,200 Accessories Accompanied by official Blancpain Rapport d’analyse and pouch.
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms’ history could well have ended before it even started. Indeed, when Captain Robert “Bob” Maloubier, then in charge of the French Army’s newly created combat divers’ unit - the Service de Documentation Extérieure et de Contre-Espionnage, could not find a diver’s watch on the market that could meet military requirements, he decided to have it manufactured. He was met with the refusal of most renowned watch manufacturers until he met Jean-Jacques Fiechter, Blancpain’s CEO at the time and himself a diving enthusiast.
Armed with his own diving experience and sensing a fantastic opportunity to offer military and civilian customers a diving watch validated by the most demanding users, the first Fifty Fathoms was born in 1953 out of this collaboration and was subsequently used by many armies around the world. Captain Maloubier was very precise in his military specifications for the watch. In addition to perfect water resistance and the stop-second, the watch had to also be magnetic resistant. Indeed, in the years 60/70, part of the military missions consisted in handling magnetic mines. Research to find the alloy that would be antimagnetic, easy to machine, and economical naturally led the manufacture to use copper. The result of this research was this so-called “Bronze series” that Blancpain produced to be tested by the US NAVY. The first tests were a total failure! This alloy was unstable, it oxidized on contact with salt water and it had very poor resistance, and above all, it was too soft to guarantee absolute waterproofness. The use of this copper based alloy was quickly abandoned. Today, it is believed that less than twenty bronze Fifty Fathoms have survived. Bearing the number 3201, this watch is part of the very first batch sent to be tested by the US Navy. Remaining in excellent condition, this watch represents an extremely rare opportunity to acquire a piece that has contributed to the history and fame of a legendary watch.
B L A N C PA I N Ref. 3201 Fifty Fathoms Milspec I
221.
A rare, early and attractive pink gold wristwatch with eccentric time display, large date, power reserve, Certificate of Authenticity and box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
Circa 2005
Case No.
666-A
Model Name
Octa Réserve de Marche
Material
18k pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1300, 32 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold F.P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 ∑ $32,000-53,400 €27,100-45,200 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe Certificate of Authenticity card stamped by F.P. Journe boutique in Paris, fitted box and outer packaging. Literature F.P. Journe Invenit et Fecit by Jean-Pierre Grosz is dedicated to Journe and his oeuvre.
The Octa Réserve de Marche is part of Journe’s founding models along with his signature Chronomètre à Resonance and Tourbillon Souverain. Journe’s objective with the automatic caliber 1300 was to offer a movement with 5 day power reserve in which he could add extra complications without modifying its size which would remain 30mm in diameter and 5.5mm thick. A precision chronometer is indicated on the movement’s engraved bridge - it was the first self-winding movement to provide 120 hours of power reserve and constant precision. The Octa Réserve de Marche features all of the Journe signature elements that collectors have come to love, a gold dial with offset time indication on the right, a power reserve indicator covering a large part of the left section of the dial and a large date. Highly legible and balanced, the design aesthetic is pure F. P. Journe. The Octa Réserve de Marche was made between 2001 and 2005 in a 38mm case. Whereas models made between 2001 and 2004 had brass movements, the later versions had pink gold calibers. The present Octa Réserve de Marche in pink gold is part of the ultra rare examples with a 38mm case but with a pink gold movement. With a substantial surge in demand for F.P. Journe timepieces today, this is a great opportunity for collectors to acquire a discontinued example of one of the most iconic models manufactured by Journe.
F. P. J O U R N E Octa Réserve de Marche
222.
A fine and lightweight aluminium chronograph wristwatch with 100th of a second, 20 seconds and 10 minutes register, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2013
Case No.
085-CTS
Model Name
Centigraphe Sport
Material
Aluminum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1506, 50 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Aluminium F. P. Journe bracelet,
scan for more info
max overall length 180mm Clasp/Buckle
Aluminium F. P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000 $32,000-64,000 €27,100-54,200 Accessories Accompanied by F. P. Journe Guarantee, presentation box, outer packaging and 4 extra links
In 2011 François-Paul Journe launched his first sports line, which like all his other creations was like no other. He didn’t create yet another steel watch that looked like so many others but launched a variation of his ground breaking Centigraphe chronograph entirely made in aluminum including not only the case bit also bracelet and even movement. The Centigraphe Sport participated on May 27, 2011 in its first official automobile race on Jean Alesi’s wrist in the Indy 500. The Centigraphe Sport features Journe’s innovative, in-house manually wound chronograph movement capable of measuring down to one hundredth of a second. When the chronograph function is engaged, the 100th of a second hand at 10 o’clock, completes one revolution per second. Once the chronograph is stopped, this hand can be stopped anywhere, allowing even a fractional 100th of a second reading. Along with the highgrade caliber 1506, the case uses a rocker stop/reset button, which allows two fingers to stay in the same place to keep time, allowing for more precise use of the chronograph. The 100th second indicator, 20 seconds counter, and 10 minutes counter are all read on three red subsidiary registers. Each subsidiary dial is marked “S” or “M” and “PR” for Seconds or Minutes Per Revolution. Made from 2011 to 2104 the Centigraphe Sport in aluminum was discontinued and replaced by a titanium version.
F. P. J O U R N E Centigraphe S
223.
An unusual and cutting edge limited edition DLC coated titanium wristwatch with three-dimensional satellite hour display, warranty and presentation box
Manufacturer
Urwerk
Year
2019
Reference No.
UR 100 Black
Case No.
G19’133
Model Name
UR100 Space Time Black
Material
DLC coated titanium
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. UR 12.01, 39 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Kevlar
Clasp/Buckle
DLC coated Titanium Urwerk pin buckle
Dimensions
49mm length, 40mm width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Urwerk International Warranty, product literature, leather folio, travel pouches, fitted box and outer packaging.
Urwerk was founded in 1997 by Felix Baumgartner, a watchmaker who started his career doing restorations on antique timepieces, along with Martin Frei, an artist passionate about architecture and design. At the time in their early 20s, their inspiration came from pop culture such as Sci-Fi, comics and design, which brought a completely fresh and out of the box approach to watches and watchmaking.
The brand is known for its wandering hour time indication via rotating satellites. The UR100 launched in 2019 takes its inspiration from a clock made by French clockmaker Gustave Sandoz and gifted to Felix Baumgartner by his father. Interestingly, the clock doesn’t indicate time but shows the number of kilometers the Earth has rotated each day at the equator. The UR 100 Spacetime does indicate time however, via the signature rotating discs. Time is read via 4 three-dimensional orbiting and revolving hour-display satellites, a red hand above the discs indicates the minutes. The same hand disappears into the case and indicates – via two apertures on each side of the case - the number of kilometers the Earth has rotated at the equator over a 20-minute period, up to a total of 555 kilometers and how many kilometers the Earth has traveled along its orbit, for a total of 35,740 kilometers in every 20-minute period. The UR100 Spacetime is a limited edition of 25 pieces in steel and 25 pieces in black DLC coated titanium like the present example and is offered in almost unworn condition with its box and papers.
U RW E R K UR 100 Space Time Black
224.
A very elegant and refined stainless steel wristwatch with guilloché dial, date, Certificate of Authenticity and Box
Manufacturer
Urban Jürgensen
Year
2018
Reference No.
Big 8
Movement No.
80’702
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. FP1160,
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
scan for more info
31 jewels Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Urban Jürgensen pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 7,000-10,000 ∑ $7,500-10,700 €6,300-9,000 Accessories Accompanied by Certificate of Authenticity, instruction manual, fitted box and outer packaging Literature The Jürgensen Dynasty: Four Centuries of Watchmaking in Two Countries by John M.R. Knudsen
Since its rebirth in the 1990s under the technical supervision of Derek Pratt and Kari Voutilainen and following the different changes in ownership, Urban Jürgensen has always maintained an immediately recognizable visual language with its elegant slim stepped cases, tear drop lugs, lavish guilloché dials and elaborate hands. At a 40mm diameter, the Big 8 is, as its name implies, a larger version of the original Reference 8 that had a 37mm case. The finely decorated movement is based on the slim F. Piguet 1160 automatic caliber and features a stunning guilloché rotor. The sheer amount of detail and care that have gone into the creation of this piece is quite incredible and the present Big 8 offers a type of watchmaking that is rarely found within this price range and as such is a superb value proposition.
U R B A N J Ü RG E N S E N Big 8
225.
A very elegant limited edition titanium wristwatch with two tone dial, guarantee and presentation box, made for Hodinkee
Manufacturer
Laurent Ferrier
Year
2019
Movement No.
797
Case No.
1/12
Model Name
Galet Micro-Rotor
Material
Titanium
scan for more info
40mm for Hodinkee Calibre
Automatic, cal. FBN 229.01, 35 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Titanium LF pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Guarantee, instruction manual, fitted box, loupe, polishing cloth, outer packaging and extra strap Literature Laurent Ferrier and the Galet Traveler are prominently illustrated in Watchmakers, The Masters of Art Horology by Maxima Gallery pp 136159.
With their exquisite hand-finished movements and superbly classical styling, Laurent Ferrier’s timepieces have become one of the most desirable of the modern independent watchmakers.
As a successor to the immensely successful Galet Traveller released in partnership with HODINKEE in 2017, Laurent Ferrier and the online watch publication and retailer teamed up again in 2018 to release this highly limited iteration of the Galet Micro-Rotor, with only twelve examples being offered. The rarified collaboration was made even further exclusive, with it not being listed publicly on the website but instead offered only to select members of the Hodinkee community. Crafted in lightweight titanium, the case is the classic Galet pebble-like form Laurent Ferrier is known for, both ergonomic and supple. The aesthetics of the dial have been completely pared back in this iteration, most notably in the lack of a subsidiary seconds indicator. Drawing inspiration from coveted vintage timepieces, the sector dial is made up of a central disc of opaline white and a gray, circular brushed outer track. Extremely thin lines, rather than traditional hour markers, break up the outer sector except for 12, 3, 6, and 9, and a delicate chemin de fer on the very edge of the dial allows the wearer to track the minutes. The resplendent movement finishing has been altered in this particular example to be treated with galvanic ruthenium, giving a darker tone to the movement that matches the outer track of the dial. The present Galet Micro-Rotor Limited Edition is numbered one of twelve, accompanied by all its original accessories, and comes from the collection of the original owner. It is in excellent, hardly worn condition, and is the first example of this limited collaboration to come to the public market.
L AU R E N T F E R R I E R Galet Micro-Rotor 40mm for Hodinkee
226.
An unusual and cutting edge limited edition stainless steel wristwatch with suspended balance, power reserve, guarantee and presentation box, made for Hodinkee
Manufacturer
MB&F
Year
2015
Case No.
51A39575 and 5/10
Model Name
Legacy Machine 101
Material
Stainless steel
scan for more info
for Hodinkee Calibre
Manual, inhouse, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel MB&F pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $21,300-42,700 €18,100-36,200 Accessories Accompanied by undated and un stamped MB&F Guarantee, user manual, fitted box, outer packaging and 5 extra straps.
Since the establishment of Max Büsser’s radical horological troupe, otherwise known as MB&F, the brand has consistently managed to generate a buzz around each of their extraordinary kinetic sculptures. In 2015, MB&F joined forces with the online watch publication HODINKEE to launch yet another sensational timepiece that redefined the traditional concepts of haute horlogerie with a blend of modern ‘neo-vintage’ panache.
Limited to only ten pieces, the present iteration of LM101 in stainless steel is the rarest in the collection of Legacy Machines. The design is consistent with that of its predecessor LM1, featuring a round case that measures substantially smaller at 40mm in diameter. In fact, the wearable size is the smallest of MB&F’s creations. The present example is also their most affordable model to date, but it is certainly not lacking in its superb quality of craftsmanship. Beneath the domed sapphire crystal lies an asymmetrical array of the principal elements of a wristwatch—a 14mm “flying” balance wheel dominating the center of the metallic chocolate brown dial, a sub dial positioned near 2’ o clock for easy time telling under the cuff, and a smaller sub dial indicating the 45hour power reserve. Yet, the heart of this artisanal wristwatch can be admired through the sapphire caseback: a symphony of undulating Geneva waves, deep internal bevels, countersunk screws, and meticulous hand-engravings all developed by one of Max Büsser’s most talented friends, Kari Voutilainen. This three-dimensional movement pays homage to traditional 19th century horology all the while channelling a unique, avantgarde exterior in direct juxtaposition. Arguably one of the most coveted renditions in the line of Legacy Machines for its divine artistry, wearability and exclusivity, the HODINKEE special edition LM101 is a rare gem for the non-conformist connoisseurs and daring traditionalists alike.
MB&F Legacy Machine 101 for Hodinkee
227.
A highly rare, striking and attractive pink gold single button chronograph wristwatch with Breguet numerals
Manufacturer
Roger Dubuis
Year
Circa 2000
Movement No.
07
Model Name
Hommage 40
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 65, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Roger Dubuis buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100
The present Roger Dubuis chronograph is a tribute to the time he spent at Longines and Patek Philippe. Dubuis started his career in the after-sales department at Longines late 1950s in after sales department. Repairing the iconic 13ZN chronograph caliber was an eye opener for him into the wonderful world of chronographs. He then left Longines for Patek Philippe where he worked as a constructor and a master watchmaker in the complications department.
He left Patek Philippe after 14 years and set up his own repair atelier in Geneva in 1980, even creating movements for other brands. However, it was not until the mid 1990s that he created his own brand – a courageous move at a time when very few watchmakers were setting off on their own. His watches were subtle, elegant with a definitive vintage Patek Philippe flair, especially seen in round Hommage models, like the present chronograph. The present monopusher chronograph in pink gold features a superb grené dial with delicate Breguet numerals and feuille hands. It houses the wonderful Lemania 2310 ébauche – this was also used by Patek Philippe in its manual chronograph models from the mid 1980s to the mid 2000s. In another nod to his past at Patek Philippe, Dubuis chose to place a cap on the chronograph’s column wheel, demonstrating his extreme attention to details. The movement proudly displays the Geneva seal - an exceptional feat for a small, at the time independent watchmaker. On top of that, it was certified by the Besançon Observatory. The present Hommage is fittingly a tribute to the end of the 90s, early 2000s, a period that saw the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking, a golden era of experimentation, innovation and adventure and a period where Roger Dubuis – the man- paved the path for the great independent watchmakers that followed.
RO G E R D U B U I S Hommage 40 Chronographe Monopoussoir “Bulletin d'Observatoire”
228.
An attractive and well-preserved white gold wristwatch with power reserve indication, Warranty and box
Manufacturer
De Bethune
Year
Circa 2011
Reference No.
DB25WS1
Movement No.
DB2024.489 and 17
Model Name
DB25
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. DB 2024, 53 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold De Bethune pin buckle
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by undated and unstamped De Bethune Certificate of Authenticity, setting pin, instruction manual, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.
De Bethune, founded in 2002 in Switzerland, is certainly one of the brands that best symbolises 21st century watchmaking. This independent watchmaker is known for creative contemporary design innovations, mechanical perfection and continuous research and development within the manufacture’s laboratory, fully-embracing the creation of materials new to the watch industry.
The element that sets De Bethune apart is the fact that its cofounder and Master Watchmaker Denis Flageollet is as much of a scientist, mathematician, astronomer and philosopher as he is a watchmaker. Always pushing the boundaries of watchmaking, he is inspired by horological greats but creates his own path, inventing watchmaking of the new millennium with over 30 inhouse movement developments, a dozen patent registrations and over eighteen world premiere innovations! The present DB25, sized at 44mm in white gold features a drum-based case displaying a silver-toned and hand-guilloché dial with blue accents giving the watch incredible charisma. At 12 o’clock, a linear power-reserve indicator is displayed. With roman numerals and a subtle outer sector seconds track the watch maintains an elegant and harmonious shape. This DB25WS1 is powered by calibre DB2024 which not only displays superior quality finishing, with hand-decorated components, but is also superlative to many other movements. Turning the timepiece to its caseback, the wearer may admire the titanium platinum oscillating weight and self-regulating twin barrel, ensuring maximum constant power reserve as well as the blued stainless steel balance bridge securing the beating organ of the timepiece. Presented in excellent “like new” overall condition, the present DB25 is offered with all its accessories inclusive of its original undated, unsigned warranty and presentation box.
DE BETHUNE DB25WS1
229.
A very attractive pink gold wristwatch with brown dial, oversized date, power reserve, moonphases, warranty and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2020
Case No.
383-AL
Model Name
Octa Lune Havane
Material
18k pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal.1300.3,
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
scan for more info
40 jewels Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold F.P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 ∑ $26,700-48,000 €22,600-40,700 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe Carte de Garantie Internationale dated September 01, 2020, wallet, polishing cloth, presentation box and outer packaging.
F.P. Journe presented the Octa collection in 2001. It was at the time, and still remains, a technological feat. The automatic movements had a 120 hour power reserve and the case size remained the same regardless of complications. In 2007, in response to comments from some of his friends, Journe decided to create a new caliber (Cal 1300.3) for the Octa to optimize winding, even for those with a very sedentary life, whereby even the slightest movement of the arm would put the rotor in motion and wind the watch. Furthermore, to enhance legibility, François-Paul Journe decided to offer the Octa Automatique and Octa Lune (moon in French), like the present watch, with centrally mounted hands as opposed to previous models who had an offset dial for the indication of time. The present Octa Lune Havane, with its rich chocolate brown dial was only in production between 2016 and 2018 making it one of the rarest variants. The very original color was a special development of Journe’s own dial makers, les Cadraniers de Genève, and is a mix of gold and ruthenium. The “Havana brown” dial beautifully contrasts with the rich pink gold case. It is interesting to note that within the Journe collection, watches with a pink gold case are rarer than those with a platinum case.
F. P. J O U R N E Octa Lune Havane
230.
An elegant and beautifully finished titanium wristwatch with partly skeletonized dial, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Romain Gauthier
Year
Circa 2015
Reference No.
W001634
Movement No.
14
Model Name
HMS Titanium
Material
Titanium
Calibre
Manual, cal. 2206, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
scan for more info
Clasp/Buckle
Titanium Romain Gauthier pin buckle
Dimensions
43mm Diameter
Signed
Dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $21,300-32,000 €18,100-27,100 Accessories Accompanied by Romain Gauthier Guarantee, presentation box, CD, polishing cloth, outer packaging. Literature Romain Gauthier is featured in Watchmakers: The Masters of Art Horology by Maxima Gallery pp. 160-177.
Originally a micro mechanical engineer, Romain Gauthier came to watchmaking by passion and founded his namesake brand in 2005, impressing collectors with the impeccable hand finish of his watches and even receiving plaudits by none other than Philippe Dufour himself. The HMS, launched in 2012, draws its inspiration from Gauthier’s original watch but opens the lower part of the dial to reveal the balance wheel and seconds gear in a glorious succession of circles and arches. In fact, the name of the watch HMS indicates the watches functions: Hours, Minutes and Seconds. The caliber beating inside is Romain Gauthier’s first in-house movement, Calibre HMS 2206, with an incredible degree of hand decoration including hand-polished bevels, interior and outward angles, black polishing, hand-polished jewel countersinks and of course Geneva waves. The movement has been ruthenium coated giving it an even more contemporary appearance. The HMS features another Gauthier signature: a crown that is set on the back of the case. In almost unworn condition, the present watch comes with its full set of accessories.
RO M A I N G AU T H I E R Ref. W001634 HMS Titanium
231.
CARTIER — A rare and attractive onyx and mother-of-pearl quartz desk clock with original presentation box
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1980
Case No.
199’968
Material
Gilt brass, onyx and
scan for more info
mother-of-pearl Calibre
Quartz
Dimensions
140mm Length and 230mm Height
Signed
Case and movement signed
Estimate CHF 5,000-8,000 $5,300-8,500 €4,500-7,200 Accessories Accompanied by Cartier presentation box.
Made in France and sold at Cartier Paris, this attractive desk clock was inspired by the art deco movement of the 1920s. Displaying onyx and enamel decorated panels, it even has a beautiful mother-of-pearl dial, evoking the lavish and glamorous designs of the early 20th century. During this period, Cartier had released this model with a number of hard stone dials, ranging from nephrite to jasper, all with the present dial and cabochon form above a rectangular base. Consigned by the original owner, the present desk clock is accompanied by its original traveling Cartier case.
232.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A fine and rare engraved gilt brass solar powered dome clock
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1953
Reference No.
701
Movement No.
872’584
Case No.
115
Material
Gilt brass
Calibre
Photo-electric cell,
Dimensions
210mm Height
Signed
Dial and movement signed
scan for more info
cal. 17-250, 29 jewels
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $16,000-26,700 €13,600-22,600 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1953 with engraved lozenges and its subsequent sale on January 12, 1957.
First produced in the 1950s, the Patek Philippe Dome Clock is a mainstay and crown jewel within the manufacture’s line of production. Characterized by the cylindrical form and spherical top, the earliest Dome Clocks were fitted with a mechanical movement powered by a solar panel. Housing the Patek Philippe manual caliber 17-250, a small rotatable solar panel on the top of the dome supplies energy to a storage device within, which in turn transmits energy to power the mechanical movement. In 1948 Patek Philippe opened its Electronic Division with the goal of exploring photoelectric, electronic, and nuclear timekeeping. The department is responsible for the creation of the groundbreaking solar clock, the first of its kind. A Swiss patent was awarded to Patek Philippe for clocks fitted with photo-electric cells. Patek Philippe’s idea for a light-powered horological mechanism was to introduce additional electronic storage – an accumulator that provides the energy to wind the spring. The photoelectric cells can either store their energy electronically in the accumulator, or mechanically by winding the spring. When the mechanism is fully wound, the cells switch over to charge the accumulator. The gilt brass case of the present model has been intricately and painstakingly hand engraved with an “engraved lozenges” motif giving the clock a charismatic sophistication.
233.
An extremely exquisite, elegant and attractive yellow gold, onyx, diamond and malachite-set bracelet watch with matching earrings, necklace and ring
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1978
Reference No.
4321/4
Movement No.
1’278’176
Case No.
2’766’264
Material
18K yellow gold,
scan for more info
diamonds, onyx and malachite Calibre
Manual, cal. 16- 250, 18 Jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold, diamond, onyx and malachite-set Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold, diamond, onyx and malachite-set
Dimensions
35.5mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet and necklace
Patek Philippe concealed clasp
signed Patek Philippe, necklace, earrings and ring signed by maker JPE Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $53,400-107,000 €45,200-90,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract of the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1978 and its subsequent sale on June 27, 1991 stating that the bracelet in yellow gold is composed of 222 diamonds, 4 onyx and five malachites, and that this timepiece is part of a jewellery set.
This incredible and exquisite yellow gold Patek Philippe bracelet watch set with diamonds, onyx and malachite perfectly encapsulates the period’s elegance and style. The timepiece features undulating diamonds, onyx and malachites, showcasing Patek Philippe’s unparalleled workmanship. Reference 4321 was produced from 1976 and 1978, with each example produced offering a slightly different variation of stone and shape. The reference perfectly captures the spirit of the era - its sloping forms, radical shape and expressive design showcases the ideals of freedom, design and self-expression of the 1970s. The timepiece, as stated from the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives, is part of a jewellery set which is offered together with the lot. The jewellery set is composed of a necklace, earrings and rings all follow the same design and stone combination as the watch and all accessories stamped JPE. Jean Pierre Ecoffey was known for producing bracelets, among other components for Patek Philippe during that time.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 4321/4 “The Complete Parure”
234.
A fine and rare white gold automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date and original invoice
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2008
Reference No.
5711G
Movement No.
3’646’715
Case No.
4’461’161
scan for more info
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324/390, 29 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Patek Philippe leather strap
stamped with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 $26,700-48,000 €22,600-40,700 Accessories Accompanied by Japanese Patek Philippe invoice dated October 3, 2008, product literature, leather document holder, wooden presentation box and outer packaging. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 2008 and its subsequent sale on September 23, 2008.
Reference 5711 in white gold is the “evening version” of what can be defined as one of the most - if not the most - collectible sports watch on the current market. This dressier version is highlighted by a leather strap rather than the usual metal bracelet, furthermore fitted with a special “Nautilus” clasp. Already a staple of the most distinguished collections worldwide, reference 5711 has enjoyed even more attention since the discontinuation of the steel model with blue dial this year. Considering that the gold-on-strap versions had already been discontinued, as was the steel version with white dial, this leaves only the 5711 in pink gold with bracelet in the current Patek Philippe catalogue, even though an educated guess would potentially indicate the incoming discontinuation of that last version as well.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5711G Nautilus
235.
A very rare and attractive yellow gold and diamond set wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1992
Reference No.
3800/005
Movement No.
1’930’445
Case No.
2’905’744
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
18k yellow gold and diamonds
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 330SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18k yellow gold and diamond set Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle
18k white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $32,000-53,400 €27,100-45,200 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe extract from the Archives confirming date of manufacture of the present watch in 1992 and its subsequent sale on March 15, 1995.
The Nautilus 3800 is in almost all aspects similar to its older sibling the original Nautilus reference 3700 other than its size, being slightly more retrained at 37.5mm as opposed to the 42mm of its older sibling. This small modification offered a vast creative playground for Patek Philippe to create avant-garde and rakish timepieces that may have been too boorish in a larger sized case. One example is the present incredibly attractive and rare diamond set reference 3800/005 in yellow gold. The subdued cream dial with subtle diamond markers offers a stark contrast to the flamboyance of the diamond set bezel and center links. Fresh to the market the present reference 3800/005 is the only known example of the second series (housing cal. 335 SC with quickset date). 15 examples are known in the first series and one in the third series. This reference 3800/005 stands out thanks to its ultimate rarity, appealing condition and elegant design.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3800/005 Nautilus
236.
A spectacular and rare white gold and diamond set wristwatch with bracelet, date, certificate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2016
Reference No.
5719/1G
Movement No.
5’931’873
Case No.
4’452’073
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
18k white gold and diamonds
scan for more info
Calibre
Automatic, cal 324SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18k white gold and diamond-set Patek Philippe bracelet, measuring 200mm max
Clasp/Buckle
18k white gold deployant clasp
Dimensions
42.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 130,000-220,000 $139,000-235,000 €118,000-199,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, product literature, leather folio, fitted box and outer packaging.
The sheer brazen outlandishness and suave awesomeness of the present Nautilus is mind boggling. What started out in the 1970s as Patek Philippe’s attempt to enter the world of luxury sports watches with the original Nautilus reference 3700 has morphed into an incredible jewelry piece that retains the laidback style of the Nautilus but takes it to new Himalayan heights of gravitas. Patek Philippe has always taken enormous pride in the gemsetting standard achieved in its workshops and the present watch exemplifies the attention to detail and overall superb mastery of the craft achieved by the company. The dial, bezel top part of the case as well as the bracelet are paved with 1675 brilliant cut diamonds for a total of 9.645Ct, the dial is also adorned with three baguette cut diamonds at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock. In overall very attractive condition this extremely rare timepiece of which only four are known is sure to be a conversation piece.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5719/1G Nautilus “Full Pavé”
Index Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
14
A. Lange & Söhne
308.027
Langematik Big Date
173
Grand Seiko
61GS V.F.A
15
A. Lange & Söhne
302.025
Jubilaüms Langematik
196
H. Moser & Cie
193
A. Lange & Söhne
405.034
Datograph Up/Down “Lumen”
142
Harry Winston
91
Anonymous
144
Antoine Preziuso
Model Name
200/MTFPJ38P
Opus One
and F.P. Journe B-side Automatic
Genève
46
Heuer
1550SG
Heuer Bund Flyback "3H"
47
Heuer
1133B
Monaco
27
Audemars Piguet
5402ST
Royal Oak
81
Heuer
1158CH
Carrera
29
Audemars Piguet
25820SP
Royal Oak "Tuscan"
82
Heuer
2446C
Autavia
38
Audemars Piguet
257200
Star Wheel
44
IWC
1811
Yacht Club
39
Audemars Piguet
25668PT
Quantieme Perpetuel Automatique
45
IWC
1811
Yacht Club
40
Audemars Piguet
15707CB and 0019
Royal Oak Offshore
48
IWC
1816
Aquatimer
41
Audemars Piguet
26470ST
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
165
IWC
3712
Portugueser Split Seconds Chronograph
42
Audemars Piguet
25721ST
Royal Oak Offshore "The Beast"
94
Laurent Ferrier
W002022
Galet Traveler
43
Audemars Piguet
25636RP
Royal Oak Quantieme Perpetuel Automatic
225
Laurent Ferrier
58
Audemars Piguet
6001BC
84
Longines
6630
106
Audemars Piguet
26331OR
Royal Oak
112
Longines
5415
107
Audemars Piguet
14813BC
Royal Oak
139
Louis Erard x
85237AA51.BVA35
126
Audemars Piguet
25810OR
Royak Oak Quantieme Perpetuel Automatique
136
Audemars Piguet
25721BA
Royal Oak Offshore
226
MB&F
147
Audemars Piguet
5402ST
Royal Oak "B Series"
90
Ming
18.01 H41
153
Audemars Piguet
5402ST
Royal Oak
20
Omega
BA 145.022
Speedmaster Professional, Apollo XI
154
Audemars Piguet
14840BC
Royal Oak
85
Omega
145.012-67 SP
Omega Speedmaster Professional "Ultraman"
156
Audemars Piguet
25829ST
Royal Oak Openworked Perpetual Calendar
86
Omega
145.022
Omega Speedmaster Apollo-Soyuz
157
Audemars Piguet
25858BC
Jules Audemars
123
Omega
ST 165.024
Seamaster 300 “Military”
166
Audemars Piguet
26557OR
Royal Oak
172
Omega
RS 711.1900
De Ville "Jeux d'Argent"
191
Audemars Piguet
15202
Royal Oak
177
Omega
ST105.003-65
Speedmaster "Ed White"
194
Audemars Piguet
26284RO
Royal Oak Offshore
197
Omega
2913-3
Seamaster 300
Limited Edition Rubens Barrichello
198
Omega
2998-1
Speedmaster
Royal Oak Offshore Diver
219
Omega
166.077
Seamaster 600 "Ploprof"
15711OI
Galet Micro-Rotor 40mm for Hodinkee Swissair
Excellence Le Regulateur
Vianney Halter Legacy Machine 101 for Hodinkee
210
Audemars Piguet
83
Blancpain
Fifty Fathoms
66
Panerai
PAM968
Submersible "Bronzo"
220
Blancpain
Fifty Fathoms Milspec I
5
Patek Philippe
5127G
Calatrava
113
Breguet
Type XX
6
Patek Philippe
6000G
Calatrava
49
Breitling
765 AVI
AVI
7
Patek Philippe
5711/1A
Nautilus
164
Bulgari
103023
Octo Finissimo - Middle East Edition
26
Patek Philippe
3800
Nautilus
21
Cartier
Tank à Guichet
28
Patek Philippe
5131R
World Time
22
Cartier
Tank Asymétrique "Jumbo"
30
Patek Philippe
5980/1R
Nautilus, "The Boss"
23
Cartier
Grande Tank Cintrée
32
Patek Philippe
5004A
56
Cartier
283-90
Tank Cintrée
33
Patek Philippe
2523
Two-Crown Worldtime, "Eurasia", "Silk Road"
57
Cartier
2356E
Tortue Monopoussoir CPCP
59
Patek Philippe
3604
Ellipse
87
Cartier
Tonneau
60
Patek Philippe
3597/2
Beta 21
88
Cartier
"Baseball"
61
Patek Philippe
7234R
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
89
Cartier
Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir
62
Patek Philippe
5270R
231
Cartier
63
Patek Philippe
5930G
World Time Chronograph
9
Daniel Roth
247.X.40
64
Patek Philippe
5711P
Nautilus
95
De Bethune
DB25QP
67
Patek Philippe
5712
Nautilus
143
De Bethune
DBDR S5
68
Patek Philippe
5711/1R
Nautilus
146
De Bethune
DB1
69
Patek Philippe
3700/11
Nautilus
228
De Bethune
DB25
70
Patek Philippe
5950R
10
F.P. Journe
Linesport Automatique Réserve
71
Patek Philippe
5980/1A
Nautilus
11
F.P. Journe
Octa Calendrier
72
Patek Philippe
5020G
"TV Screen"
12
F.P. Journe
Chronomètre Bleu
96
Patek Philippe
2526
13
F.P. Journe
Chronomètre à Resonance
98
Patek Philippe
3448
92
F.P. Journe
Chronomètre à Resonance
100
Patek Philippe
2499
93
F.P. Journe
Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoire d'Egalité
101
Patek Philippe
5164A
Aquanaut Travel Time
140
F.P. Journe
Chronomètre Souverain
102
Patek Philippe
5726/1A
Nautilus
141
F.P. Journe
Chronomètre à Resonance
103
Patek Philippe
5565A
221
F.P. Journe
Octa Réserve de Marche
104
Patek Philippe
5105P
222
F.P. Journe
Centigraphe Sport
114
Patek Philippe
130
229
F.P. Journe
Octa Lune Havane
115
Patek Philippe
96
Calatrava
65
Gérald Genta
GGM 3 Gefica Safari
116
Patek Philippe
570
Calatrava
16
Grand Seiko
128
Patek Philippe
3970E
2842
DB25WS1
SBGD001
DB 25
"Padellone"
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
129
Patek Philippe
3448/17
"Padellone"
119
Rolex
18248
Day-Date
130
Patek Philippe
2499/100
120
Rolex
126719BLRO
GMT-Master II "Pepsi"
132
Patek Philippe
5065A
Aquanaut
121
Rolex
1665
Sea-Dweller "COMEX"
135
Patek Philippe
5524G
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
122
Rolex
1665
Sea-Dweller "Great White"
158
Patek Philippe
3433
124
Rolex
1675
GMT-Master
159
Patek Philippe
130
125
Rolex
1680
Submariner "Red Sub"
160
Patek Philippe
570
131
Rolex
126710BLRO
GMT-Master II "Pepsi"
161
Patek Philippe
2499
133
Rolex
16610LV
Submariner "Flat Four Kermit"
162
Patek Philippe
5975R
134
Rolex
116518LN
Cosmograph Daytona
167
Patek Philippe
5712G
Nautilus
137
Rolex
16520
Cosmograph Daytona "Darth Vader"
169
Patek Philippe
3700
Nautilus “Jumbo”
138
Rolex
116520
Cosmograph Daytona
170
Patek Philippe
3466
148
Rolex
18038
Day-Date "Stella"
171
Patek Philippe
2482
149
Rolex
1675
GMT-Master
188
Patek Philippe
5200G
150
Rolex
6263
Cosmograph Daytona
189
Patek Philippe
5396G
151
Rolex
6238
Pre-Daytona
190
Patek Philippe
5059R
152
Rolex
6036
Oyster Chronographe, "Datocompax", “Killy"
192
Patek Philippe
3712/1A
155
Rolex
6612B
Day-date
200
Patek Philippe
130
168
Rolex
116759
GMT-Master II "SARU"
201
Patek Philippe
2560
176
Rolex
6024
Oyster
203
Patek Philippe
1579
“Anse a Ragno”
179
Rolex
1680
Submariner
206
Patek Philippe
3450
"Padellone"
180
Rolex
1803
Day-Date
208
Patek Philippe
2499
181
Rolex
18238
Day-Date
209
Patek Philippe
5065A
Aquanaut
182
Rolex
6536/1
Submariner
212
Patek Philippe
5524R
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
183
Rolex
6542
GMT-Master "Pussy Galore"
232
Patek Philippe
701
184
Rolex
16520
Cosmograph Daytona "Floating Cosmograph"
233
Patek Philippe
432/4
185
Rolex
6241
Cosmograph Daytona "Paul Newman"
234
Patek Philippe
5711G
Nautilus
199
Rolex
6241
Cosmograph Daytona
235
Patek Philippe
760
Nautilus
202
Rolex
1665
Sea-Dweller "Double Red"
236
Patek Philippe
3800/005
Nautilus
204
Rolex
6265
Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
31
Richard Mille
RM022
Aerodyne
205
Rolex
6241
Cosmograph Daytona "Paul Newman"
8
Roger Dubuis
H34
207
Rolex
6265
Oyster Cosmograph “Paul Newman”
227
Roger Dubuis
Hommage 40
211
Rolex
126715CHNR
GMT-Master II
145
Roger Smith
Series 1 "Onely Theo Fennell"
213
Rolex
1601
Datejust
1
Rolex
126660
Sea-Dweller Deepsea
214
Rolex
1806
Day-Date
2
Rolex
116500LN
Cosmograph Daytona
215
Rolex
116528
Cosmograph Daytona
3
Rolex
16518
Cosmograph Daytona
216
Rolex
18048
Day-Date
4
Rolex
116528
Cosmograph Daytona
217
Rolex
16523
Cosmograph Daytona
24
Rolex
118238
Day-Date
218
Rolex
16660
Sea-Dweller "COMEX"
25
Rolex
118238
Day-Date
230
Romain Gauthier
W001634
HMS Titanium
35
Rolex
16520
Cosmograph Daytona
163
TAG Heuer
CAR221B.FC6350
Skipper for Hodinkee
36
Rolex
18238
Day-Date
73
Tissot
37
Rolex
18239
Day-Date
34
Tudor
79830RB
Black Bay GMT "Ronchi"
50
Rolex
16013
Datejust
174
Ulysse Nardin
51
Rolex
16753
GMT-Master
175
Ulysse Nardin
52
Rolex
116718
GMT-Master II
186
Universal
867101
White Shadow
53
Rolex
116619
Submariner
195
Universal
22279
Tri-Compax
54
Rolex
6265
Oyster Cosmograph
224
Urban Jürgensen
Big 8
55
Rolex
6238
Chronograph “Pre-Daytona”
223
Urwerk
UR 100 Black
UR100 Space Time Black
74
Rolex
6309
Oyster Perpetual, "Thunderbird"
105
Vacheron Constantin
44018
222 "Jumbo"
75
Rolex
6350
Explorer
110
Vacheron Constantin
6111
Chronomètre Royal
76
Rolex
6265
Oyster Cosmograph "Sigma Dial"
111
Vacheron Constantin
4072
77
Rolex
1831
Day-Date
127
Vacheron Constantin
43045
78
Rolex
6262
Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman "Musketeer"
187
Vacheron Constantin
6561
79
Rolex
5513
"Explorer Submariner Underline"
17
Zenith
A386
El Primero
80
Rolex
5513
Submariner "MilSub"
18
Zenith
GH 381
El Primero
97
Rolex
3525
"Barilotto"
19
Zenith
30.P386.400/
El Primero A386 for Phillips
99
Rolex
2508
27.C841
in Association with Bacs & Russo
108
Rolex
116758SANR
GMT-Master II
109
Rolex
18236
Day-Date
117
Rolex
118209
Day-Date
118
Rolex
1803
Day-Date
"Calatravone"
Gondolo
Nautilus
American 1921
Paddle Number
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The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII Hong Kong / Spring 2021
Enquiries Thomas Perazzi +852 2318 2031 ThomasPerazzi@phillips.com
phillips.com/watches
Patek Philippe, reference 3974R. An impressive, and very rare pink gold minute repeating English perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, 24-hour, leap year indication, additional solid caseback, Certificate of Origin and presentation box, Circa 1992 Estimate HK$ 3,875,000 - 7,750,000
Geneva Guide for Prospective Buyers Buying at Auction The following pages are designed to offer you information on how to buy at auction at Phillips. Our staff will be happy to assist you. Conditions of Sale The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty which appear later in this catalogue govern the auction. Bidders are strongly encouraged to read them as they outline the legal relationship among Phillips, the seller and the buyer and describe the terms upon which property is bought at auction. Please be advised that Phillips generally acts as agent for the seller. Bidders should also read the Important Notices immediately following this Guide for Prospective Buyers. Buyer’s Premium and VAT Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or buyer’s premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The buyer’s premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 26% of the hammer price up to and including CHF600,000, 21% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF600,000 up to and including CHF6,000,000 and 14.5% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF6,000,000. Value added tax (VAT) of 7.7% is payable on the hammer price and the buyer’s premium. This tax is refunded to any buyer domiciled outside Switzerland if, but only if, Phillips receives from such buyer an export declaration in respect of a purchased lot which has been stamped by Swiss customs. The purchase price payable for any lot is the sum of the hammer price plus the buyer’s premium plus VAT. 1 Prior to Auction Catalogue Subscriptions If you would like to purchase a catalogue for this auction or any other Phillips sale, please contact us at +41 22 317 8181, +44 20 7318 4010 or +1 212 940 1240. Pre-Sale Estimates Pre-sale estimates are intended as a guide for prospective buyers. Any bid within the high and low estimate range should, in our opinion, offer a chance of success. However, many lots achieve prices below or above the pre-sale estimates. Where ‘Estimate on Request’ appears, please contact the specialist department for further information. It is advisable to contact us closer to the time of the auction as estimates can be subject to revision. Pre-sale estimates do not include the buyer’s premium or VAT.
prospective buyers to inspect the property at the pre-sale exhibitions and recommend, particularly in the case of any lot of significant value, that you retain your own restorer or professional advisor to report to you on the property’s condition prior to bidding. Moreover, condition reports are not exhaustive and may not specify all mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate bases(s) or dome. The absence of a condition report or the absence of a reference to damage in the catalogue does not imply that the lot is in good condition, working order or free from restoration or repair. Pre-Auction Viewing Pre-auction viewings are open to the public and free of charge. Our specialists are available to give advice and condition reports at viewings or by appointment. Symbol Key The following key explains the symbols you may see inside this catalogue. O Guaranteed Property Lots designated with the symbol ○ are the subject of a minimum price guarantee. In such cases Phillips has guaranteed to the seller of the lot that regardless of the outcome of the sale the seller shall receive no less than a minimum sum. This guarantee may be provided solely by Phillips or jointly with a third party. ♦ Third Party Guarantee Where Phillips has agreed to a minimum price guarantee it assumes the financial risk of a lot failing to sell or selling for less than the minimum price guarantee. Because the sums involved can be significant Phillips may choose to share the burden of that financial risk with a third party. The third party shares the risk by committing in advance of the sale, usually by way of a written bid, to buy the lot for an agreed amount whether or not there are competing bidders for the lot. If there are competing bidders third party guarantors may also bid above any written bid. In this way the third-party guarantor assumes the risk of the bidding not reaching the amount of the minimum price guarantee. In return for underwriting or sharing this risk Phillips will usually compensate the third party. The compensation may be in the form of a fixed fee or an amount calculated by reference to the hammer price of the lot. If the third-party guarantor is the successful bidder Phillips will report the purchase price net of any fees paid to the third-party guarantor. Δ Property in which Phillips has an Ownership Interest Lots with this symbol indicate that Phillips owns the lot in whole or in part or has an economic interest in the lot equivalent to an ownership interest.
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Condition of Lots Our catalogues include references to condition only in the descriptions of multiple works (e.g., prints). Such references, though, do not amount to a full description of condition. The absence of reference to the condition of a lot in the catalogue entry (including those accessed via QR Codes appearing in the catalogue) does not imply that the lot is free from faults or imperfections. Solely as a convenience to clients, Phillips may provide condition reports. In preparing such reports, our specialists assess the condition in a manner appropriate to the estimated value of the property. While condition reports are prepared honestly and carefully, our staff are not professional restorers. We therefore encourage all
Ж Property Subject to US Import Tariffs Lots with this symbol indicate that the Property may be subject to additional tariffs upon importation into the United States of America. See paragraph 12 of the Conditions of Sale.
2 Bidding in the Sale Bidding at Auction Bids may be executed during the auction in person by paddle, by telephone, online or prior to the sale in writing by absentee bid. Proof of identity in the form of government-issued identification will be required, as will an original signature and recent proof of address. We may also require that you furnish us with a bank reference.
Undisclosed agreements between bidders to bid or abstain from bidding on lots are illegal. Please note that Phillips monitors its sales and bidding records to ensure that bidding is transparent and fair and will take appropriate action in the event of any suspected breach of this requirement.
The Auctioneer may vary the increments during the course of the auction at his or her own discretion.
Bidding in Person To bid in person, you will need to register for and collect a paddle before the auction begins. New clients are encouraged to register at least 48 hours in advance of a sale to allow sufficient time for us to process your information. All lots sold will be invoiced to the name and address to which the paddle has been registered and invoices cannot be transferred to other names and addresses. Please do not misplace your paddle. In the event you lose it, inform a Phillips staff member immediately. At the end of the auction, please return your paddle to the registration desk.
Conditions of Sale As noted above, the auction is governed by the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty. All prospective bidders should read them carefully. They may be amended by saleroom addendum or Auctioneer’s announcement.
Bidding by Telephone If you cannot attend the auction, you may bid live on the telephone with one of our multilingual staff members. This service must be arranged at least 24 hours in advance of the sale and is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least CHF1,000. Telephone bids may be recorded. By bidding on the telephone, you consent to the recording of your conversation. We suggest that you leave a maximum bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and VAT, which we can execute on your behalf in the event we are unable to reach you by telephone. Online Bidding If you cannot attend the auction in person, you may bid online on our online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. The digital saleroom is optimized to run on Google Chrome, Firefox, Opera and Internet Explorer browsers. Clients who wish to run the platform on Safari will need to install Adobe Flash Player. Follow the links to ‘Auctions’ and ‘Digital Saleroom’ and then pre-register by clicking on ‘Register to Bid Live.’ The first time you register you will be required to create an account; thereafter you will only need to register for each sale. You must pre-register at least 24 hours before the start of the auction in order to be approved by our bid department. Please note that corporate firewalls may cause difficulties for online bidders. Absentee Bids If you are unable to attend the auction and cannot participate by telephone, Phillips will be happy to execute written bids on your behalf. A bidding form can be found at the back of this catalogue. This service is free and confidential. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. Our staff will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. Always indicate a maximum bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and VAT. Unlimited bids will not be accepted. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence. Employee Bidding Employees of Phillips and our affiliated companies, including the huissier or the auctioneer (the ‘Auctioneer’), may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures. Bidding Increments Bidding generally opens below the low estimate and advances in increments of up to 10%, subject to the Auctioneer’s discretion. Absentee bids that do not conform to the increments set below may be lowered to the next bidding increment. CHF50 to CHF1,000 CHF1,000 to CHF2,000 CHF2,000 to CHF3,000 CHF3,000 to CHF5,000 CHF5,000 to CHF10,000 CHF10,000 to CHF20,000 CHF20,000 to CHF30,000 CHF30,000 to CHF50,000 CHF50,000 to CHF100,000 CHF100,000 to CHF200,000 above CHF200,000
by CHF50s by CHF100s by CHF200s by CHF200s, 500, 800 (i.e., CHF4,200, 4,500, 4,800) by CHF500s by CHF1,000s by CHF2,000s by CHF2,000s, 5,000, 8,000 by CHF5,000s by CHF10,000s at the Auctioneer’s discretion
3 The Auction
Interested Parties Announcement In situations where a person allowed to bid on a lot has a direct or indirect interest in such lot, such as the beneficiary or executor of an estate selling the lot, a joint owner of the lot or a party providing or participating in a guarantee on the lot, Phillips will make an announcement in the saleroom that interested parties may bid on the lot. Consecutive and Responsive Bidding The Auctioneer may open the bidding on any lot by placing a bid on behalf of the seller. The Auctioneer may further bid on behalf of the seller up to the amount of the reserve by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders. No Reserve Lots If a lot is offered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the Auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low presale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the Auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the Auctioneer may deem such lot unsold. 4 After the Auction Payment Buyers are required to pay for purchases immediately following the auction unless other arrangements have been agreed with Phillips in writing in advance of the sale. Payment must be made in Swiss francs by wire transfer, as noted in Paragraph 6 of the Conditions of Sale. Neither cash nor cheques will be accepted. Credit Cards As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa, MasterCard, and CUP (in person transactions only for CUP) to pay for invoices of CHF100,000 or less. A processing fee will apply. Collection It is our policy to request proof of identity on collection of a lot. A lot will be released to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative when Phillips has received full and cleared payment and we are not owed any other amount by the buyer. After the auction, all lots will be kept at our premises. Loss or Damage Buyers are reminded that Phillips accepts liability for loss or damage to lots for a maximum of seven days following the auction. Transport and Shipping As a free service for buyers, Phillips will wrap purchased lots for hand carry only. We do not provide packing, handling or shipping services directly. However, we will coordinate with shipping agents instructed by you in order to facilitate the packing, handling and shipping of property purchased at Phillips. Please refer to Paragraph 7 of the Conditions of Sale for more information. Export and Import Licences Before bidding for any property, prospective bidders are advised to make independent enquiries as to whether a licence is required to export the property from Switzerland or to import it into another country. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to comply with all import and export laws and to obtain any necessary licences or permits. The denial of any required licence or permit or any delay in obtaining such documentation will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot.
Important Notices Regulated Species Items made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value, may require a licence or certificate prior to exportation and additional licences or certificates upon importation to the US or to any country within or outside the European Union (EU). Please note that the ability to obtain an export licence or certificate does not ensure the ability to obtain an import licence or certificate in another country, and vice versa. We suggest that prospective bidders check with their own government regarding wildlife import requirements prior to placing a bid. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to obtain any necessary export or import licences or certificates as well as any other required documentation. Please note that the US prohibits the importation of any item containing African elephant ivory. Asian elephant ivory may be imported in to the US only if accompanied by independent scientific analysis regarding continent of origin and confirmation the object is more than 100 years old. We have not obtained a scientific analysis on any lot prior to sale and cannot indicate whether elephant ivory in a particular lot is African or Asian elephant. Buyers purchase these lots at their own risk and will be responsible for the costs of obtaining any scientific analysis or other report required in connection with their proposed import of such property into the US. With regard to any item containing endangered species other than elephant ivory, an importer into the US must provide documented evidence of the species identification and age of an object in order to demonstrate that the object qualifies as an antique. This will require the buyer to obtain an independent appraisal certifying the species of endangered material on the object and certifying that the object is not less than 100 years of age. A prospective buyer planning to import an object into the US may not rely on Phillips cataloguing to establish the species of endangered material on the object or to establish the age of the object and must consult with a qualified independent appraiser prior to placing a bid on the lot. Please note that lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material are marked as a convenience to our clients, but Phillips does not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species. Privacy Our Privacy Policy is available at www.phillips.com or by emailing dataprotection@ phillips.com and sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collect and process; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data; (iii) the lawful bases we rely on when processing your personal data; (iv) your rights in respect of our processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information as required by applicable laws. Phillips premises, sale, and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Phillips’ auctions will be filmed for simultaneous live broadcast on Phillips’ and third party websites and applications. Your communications with Phillips, including by phone and online (e.g. phone and on-line bidding) may be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process it in accordance with our Privacy Policy.
Condition Phillips makes no representation or warranty that any watch or clock is in working order, and no catalogue description (appearing in the catalogue or accessed via a QR Code) of any lot should be construed as so stating,. Prospective buyers are advised to have watches and clocks checked by a competent watchmaker or watch or clock restorer before use. As a service to prospective buyers, we may provide a description of the condition of watches and clocks in the catalogue entry (appearing in the catalogue or accessed via a QR Code) including references to defects and repairs, and furnish a condition report, but such information is not necessarily complete and may not specify all mechanical replacements, restorations or defects. Please note that Phillips does not guarantee the authenticity of any individual components parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since prior repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Nor does Phillips warrant that watches in water- resistant cases are currently water-resistant. Prospective buyers should inspect all watches and clocks prior to the auction to evaluate the condition of property offered for sale. Exportation of Watch Bands Incorporating Material from Regulated Species Some of the watches offered for sale in the catalogue may have bands made of endangered or protected animal materials, such as alligator or crocodile, and may not lawfully be exported from the auction site without a CITES export permit. As explained in Paragraph 4 of the Guide for Prospective Buyers, these lots are marked with ∑ in the catalogue. Accordingly, for purchased watches that are to be shipped out of the sale site for delivery, Phillips may need to remove and retain the band before shipping the watch and buckle. Authenticity Certificates Certain manufacturers do not issue certificates of authenticity, and Phillips has no obligation to furnish a buyer with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer, except when specifically noted in the catalogue. Unless Phillips is satisfied that we should cancel the sale in accordance with the Authorship Warranty provided in the Conditions of Sale, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds for cancellation of the sale.
Conditions of Sale The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty set out below govern the relationship between bidders and buyers, on the one hand, and Phillips Fine Watches Limited (Geneva branch) registered in Geneva under number 380214667 (“Phillips”) and sellers, on the other hand. All prospective buyers should read these Conditions of Sale, the Important Notices immediately following the Guide for Prospective Buyers and the Authorship Warranty carefully before bidding. 1 Introduction Each lot in this catalogue is offered for sale and sold subject to: (a) the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty; (b) additional notices and terms in other places in this catalogue, including the Guide for Prospective Buyers and Important Notices (c) supplements to this catalogue including information accessed via QR Codes appearing in this catalogue, and (d) other written material posted by Phillips in the saleroom, in each case as amended by any addendum or announcement by the auctioneer prior to the auction. By bidding at the auction, whether in person, through an agent, by written bid, by telephone bid or other means, bidders and buyers agree to be bound by these Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty. These Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty contain all the terms on which Phillips and the seller contract with the buyer. 2 Phillips As Agent Phillips acts as an agent for the seller, unless otherwise indicated in this catalogue or at the time of auction. On occasion, Phillips may own a lot directly, in which case we will act in a principal capacity as a consignor, or a company affiliated with Phillips may own a lot, in which case we will act as agent for that company, or Phillips or an affiliated company may have a legal, beneficial or financial interest in a lot as a secured creditor or otherwise. 3 Catalogue Descriptions and Condition of Property Lots are sold subject to the Authorship Warranty, as described in the catalogue (unless such description is changed or supplemented, as provided in Paragraph 1 above) and in the condition that they are in at the time of the sale on the following basis. (a) The knowledge of Phillips in relation to each lot is partially dependent on information provided to us by the seller, and Phillips is not able to and does not carry out exhaustive due diligence on each lot. Prospective buyers acknowledge this fact and accept responsibility for carrying out inspections and investigations to satisfy themselves as to the lots in which they may be interested. Notwithstanding the foregoing, we shall exercise such reasonable care when making express statements in catalogue descriptions or condition reports (including those accessed via QR Codes appearing in this catalogue) as consistent with our role as auctioneer of lots in this sale and in light of (i) the information provided to us by the seller, (ii) scholarship and technical knowledge and (iii) the generally accepted opinions of relevant experts, in each case at the time any such express statement is made. (b) Each lot offered for sale at Phillips is available for inspection by prospective buyers prior to the auction. Phillips accepts bids on lots on the basis that bidders (and independent experts on their behalf, to the extent appropriate given the nature and value of the lot and the bidder’s own expertise) have fully inspected the lot prior to bidding and have satisfied themselves as to both the condition of the lot and the accuracy of its description. (c) Prospective buyers acknowledge that many lots are of an age and type which means that they are not in perfect condition. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips may prepare and provide condition reports to assist prospective buyers when they are inspecting lots. Catalogue descriptions and condition reports (including those accessed via QR Codes appearing in this catalogue) may make reference to particular imperfections of a lot, but bidders should note that lots may have other faults not expressly referred to in the catalogue or condition report. All dimensions are approximate. Illustrations are for identification purposes only and cannot be used as precise indications of size or to convey full information as to the actual condition of lots. (d) Information provided to prospective buyers in respect of any lot, including
any pre-sale estimate, whether written or oral, and information in any catalogue, condition or other report, commentary or valuation, is not a representation of fact but rather a statement of opinion held by Phillips. Any pre-sale estimate may not be relied on as a prediction of the selling price or value of the lot and may be revised from time to time by Phillips at our absolute discretion. Neither Phillips nor any of our affiliated companies shall be liable for any difference between the presale estimates for any lot and the actual price achieved at auction or upon resale. 4 Bidding at Auction (a) Phillips has absolute discretion to refuse admission to the auction or participation in the sale. All bidders must register for a paddle prior to bidding, supplying such information and references as required by Phillips. (b) As a convenience to bidders who cannot attend the auction in person, Phillips may, if so instructed by the bidder, execute written absentee bids on a bidder’s behalf. Absentee bidders are required to submit bids on the ‘Absentee Bid Form’, a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. The bidder must clearly indicate the maximum amount he or she intends to bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and value added tax (VAT). The huissier or auctioneer (the ‘Auctioneer’) will not accept an instruction to execute an absentee bid which does not indicate such maximum bid. Our staff will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence. (c) Telephone bidders are required to submit bids on the ‘Telephone Bid Form’, a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Telephone bidding is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least CHF1000. Phillips reserves the right to require written confirmation of a successful bid from a telephone bidder by fax or otherwise immediately after such bid is accepted by the Auctioneer. Telephone bids may be recorded and, by bidding on the telephone, a bidder consents to the recording of the conversation.
(d) Bidders may participate in an auction by bidding online through Phillips’s online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. To bid online, bidders must register online at least 24 hours before the start of the auction. Online bidding is subject to approval by Phillips’s bid department in our sole discretion. As noted in Paragraph 3 above, Phillips encourages online bidders to inspect prior to the auction any lot(s) on which they may bid, and condition reports are available upon request. Bidding in a live auction can progress quickly. To ensure that online bidders are not placed at a disadvantage when bidding against bidders in the room or on the telephone, the procedure for placing bids through Phillips’s online bidding platform is a one-step process. By clicking the bid button on the computer screen, a bidder submits a bid. Online bidders acknowledge and agree that bids so submitted are final and may not under any circumstances be amended or retracted. During a live auction, when bids other than online bids are placed, they will be displayed on the online bidder’s computer screen as ‘floor’ bids. ‘Floor’ bids include bids made by the auctioneer to protect the reserve. In the event that an online bid and a ‘floor’ or ‘phone’ bid are identical, the ‘floor’ bid may take precedence at the Auctioneer’s discretion. The next bidding increment is shown for the convenience of online bidders in the bid button. The bidding increment available to online bidders may vary from the next bid actually taken by the Auctioneer, as the Auctioneer may deviate from Phillips’s standard increments at any time at his or her discretion, but an online bidder may only place a bid in a whole bidding increment. Phillips’s bidding increments are published in the Guide for Prospective Buyers. (e) When making a bid, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, a bidder accepts personal liability to pay the purchase price, as described more fully in Paragraph 6 (a) below, plus all other applicable charges.
(f) By participating in the auction, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, each prospective buyer represents and warrants that any bids placed by such person, or on such person’s behalf, are not the product of any collusive or other anti-competitive agreement and are otherwise consistent with federal and state antitrust law. (g) Arranging absentee, telephone and online bids is a free service provided by Phillips to prospective buyers. While we undertake to exercise reasonable care in undertaking such activity, we cannot accept liability for failure to execute such bids except where such failure is caused by our willful misconduct.
(h) Employees of Phillips and our affiliated companies, including the Auctioneer, may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures. 5 Conduct of the Auction (a) Unless otherwise indicated by the symbol •, each lot is offered subject to a reserve, which is the confidential minimum selling price agreed by Phillips with the seller. The reserve will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate at the time of the auction. (b) The Auctioneer has discretion at any time to refuse any bid, withdraw any lot, re-offer a lot for sale (including after the fall of the hammer) if he or she believes there may be error or dispute and take such other action as he or she deems reasonably appropriate. Phillips shall have no liability whatsoever for any such action taken by the Auctioneer. If any dispute arises after the sale, our sale record is conclusive. The Auctioneer may accept bids made by a company affiliated with Phillips provided that the bidder does not know the reserve placed on the lot. (c) The Auctioneer will commence and advance the bidding at levels and in increments he or she considers appropriate. In order to protect the reserve on any lot, the Auctioneer may place one or more bids on behalf of the seller up to the reserve without indicating he or she is doing so, either by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders. If a lot is offered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the Auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low pre-sale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the Auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the Auctioneer may deem such lot unsold. (d) The sale will be conducted in Swiss francs and payment is due in Swiss francs. For the benefit of international clients, pre-sale estimates in the auction catalogue may be shown in US dollars and/or euros and, if so, will reflect approximate exchange rates. Accordingly, estimates in US dollars or euros should be treated only as a guide. If a currency converter is operated during the sale, it is done so as a courtesy to bidders, but Phillips accepts no responsibility for any errors in currency conversion calculation.
(c) Unless otherwise agreed, a buyer is required to pay for a purchased lot immediately following the auction regardless of any intention to obtain an export or import license or other permit for such lot. Payments must be made by the invoiced party in Swiss francs by wire transfer in accordance with the bank transfer details provided on the invoice for purchased lots. (d) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa, MasterCard, and CUP (in person transactions only for CUP) to pay for invoices of CHF100,000 or less. A processing fee will apply. (e) Title in a purchased lot will not pass until Phillips has received the Purchase Price for that lot in cleared funds. Phillips is not obliged to release a lot to the buyer until title in the lot has passed and appropriate identification has been provided, and any earlier release does not affect the passing of title or the buyer’s unconditional obligation to pay the Purchase Price. 7 Collection of Property (a) Phillips will not release a lot to the buyer until we have received payment of its Purchase Price in full in cleared funds, the buyer has paid all outstanding amounts due to Phillips or any of our affiliated companies, including any charges payable pursuant to Paragraph 8 (a) below, and the buyer has satisfied such other terms as we in our sole discretion shall require, including providing information and documentation we require to satisfy our customer due diligence and verification checks for Know Your Customer compliance purposes and completing any antimoney laundering, anti-terrorism financing and sanctions checks. As soon as a buyer has satisfied all of the above conditions, he or she should contact us at +41 22 317 8181 to arrange for collection of purchased property. (b) The buyer must arrange for collection of a purchased lot within seven days of the date of the auction. After the auction, all lots will be kept at our premises. Purchased lots are at the buyer’s risk, including the responsibility for insurance, from (i) the date of collection or (ii) seven days after the auction, whichever is the earlier. Until risk passes, Phillips will compensate the buyer for any loss or damage to a purchased lot up to a maximum of the Purchase Price paid, subject to our usual exclusions for loss or damage to property.
(e) Subject to the Auctioneer’s reasonable discretion, the highest bidder accepted by the Auctioneer will be the buyer and the striking of the hammer marks the acceptance of the highest bid and the conclusion of a contract for sale between the seller and the buyer. Risk and responsibility for the lot passes to the buyer as set forth in Paragraph 7 below.
(c) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will, without charge, wrap purchased lots for hand carry only. We do not provide packing, handling, insurance or shipping services. We will coordinate with shipping agents instructed by the buyer, whether or not recommended by Phillips, in order to facilitate the packing, handling, insurance and shipping of property bought at Phillips. Any such instruction is entirely at the buyer’s risk and responsibility, and we will not be liable for acts or omissions of third party packers or shippers. Property will be collected by the buyer at the point it is released in the sale location by Phillips to the buyer or to a thirdparty shipper acting for the buyer. The buyer is responsible for paying any import duties and local taxes payable to import the Property to its final destination.
(f) If a lot is not sold, the Auctioneer will announce that it has been ‘passed’, ‘withdrawn’, ‘returned to owner’ or ‘bought-in’.
(d) Phillips will require presentation of government-issued identification prior to release of a lot to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative.
(g) Any post-auction sale of lots offered at auction shall incorporate these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty as if sold in the auction.
8 Failure to Collect Purchases (a) If the buyer pays the Purchase Price but fails to collect a purchased lot within 30 days of the auction, the buyer will incur a late collection fee of CHF10 per day for each uncollected lot. We will not release purchased lots to the buyer until all such charges have been paid in full.
6 Purchase Price and Payment (a) The buyer agrees to pay us, in addition to the hammer price of the lot, the buyer’s premium, plus any applicable value added tax (VAT) (the ‘Purchase Price’). The buyer’s premium is 26% of the hammer price up to and including CHF600,000, 21% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF600,000 up to and including CHF6,000,000 and 14.5% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF6,000,000. Phillips reserves the right to pay from our compensation an introductory commission to one or more third parties for assisting in the sale of property offered and sold at auction. (b) VAT of 7.7% is payable on the hammer price plus buyer’s premium. This tax is refunded to any buyer domiciled outside Switzerland if, but only if, Phillips receives from such buyer an export declaration in respect of a purchased lot which has been stamped by Swiss customs. All prices, fees, charges and expenses set out in these Conditions of Sale are quoted exclusive of VAT.
(b) If a purchased lot is paid for but not collected within six months of the auction, the buyer authorizes Phillips, upon notice, to arrange a resale of the item by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips’s reasonable discretion. The proceeds of such sale will be applied to pay for storage charges and any other outstanding costs and expenses owed by the buyer to Phillips or our affiliated companies and the remainder will be forfeited unless collected by the buyer within two years of the original auction. 9 Remedies for Non-Payment (a) Without prejudice to any rights the seller may have, if the buyer without prior agreement fails to make payment of the Purchase Price for a lot in cleared funds within seven days of the auction, Phillips may in our sole discretion exercise one or
more of the following remedies: (i) store the lot at Phillips‘s premises or elsewhere at the buyer’s sole risk and expense; (ii) cancel the sale of the lot, retaining any partial payment of the Purchase Price as liquidated damages; (iii) reject future bids from the buyer or render such bids subject to payment of a deposit; (iv) charge interest at 12% per annum from the date payment became due until the date the Purchase Price is received in cleared funds; (v) subject to notification of the buyer, exercise a lien over any of the buyer’s property which is in the possession of Phillips and instruct our affiliated companies to exercise a lien over any of the buyer’s property which is in their possession and, in each case, no earlier than 30 days from the date of such notice arrange the sale of such property and apply the proceeds to the amount owed to Phillips or any of our affiliated companies after the deduction from sale proceeds of our standard vendor’s commission, all salerelated expenses and any applicable taxes thereon; (vi) resell the lot by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips’s reasonable discretion, it being understood that in the event such resale is for less than the original hammer price and buyer’s premium for that lot, the buyer will remain liable for the shortfall together with all costs incurred in such resale; (vii) commence legal proceedings to recover the hammer price and buyer’s premium for that lot, together with interest and the costs of such proceedings; (viii) set off the outstanding amount remaining unpaid by the buyer against any amounts which we or any of our affiliated companies may owe the buyer in any other transactions; (ix) release the name and address of the buyer to the seller to enable the seller to commence legal proceedings to recover the amounts due and legal costs; or (x) take such other action as we deem necessary or appropriate. (b) The buyer irrevocably authorizes Phillips to exercise a lien over the buyer’s property which is in our possession upon notification by any of our affiliated companies that the buyer is in default of payment. Phillips will notify the buyer of any such lien. The buyer also irrevocably authorizes Phillips, upon notification by any of our affiliated companies that the buyer is in default of payment, to pledge the buyer’s property in our possession by actual or constructive delivery to our affiliated company as security for the payment of any outstanding amount due. Phillips will notify the buyer if the buyer’s property has been delivered to an affiliated company by way of pledge.
(c) If the buyer is in default of payment, the buyer irrevocably authorizes Phillips to instruct any of our affiliated companies in possession of the buyer’s property to deliver the property by way of pledge as the buyer’s agent to a third party instructed by Phillips to hold the property on our behalf as security for the payment of the Purchase Price and any other amount due and, no earlier than 30 days from the date of written notice to the buyer, to sell the property in such manner and for such consideration as can reasonably be obtained on a forced sale basis and to apply the proceeds to any amount owed to Phillips or any of our affiliated companies after the deduction from sale proceeds of our standard vendor’s commission, all sale-related expenses and any applicable taxes thereon. 10 Rescission by Phillips Phillips shall have the right, but not the obligation, to rescind a sale without notice to the buyer if we reasonably believe that there is a material breach of the seller’s representations and warranties or the Authorship Warranty or an adverse claim is made by a third party. Upon notice of Phillips election to rescind the sale, the buyer will promptly return the lot to Phillips, and we will then refund the Purchase Price paid to us. As described more fully in Paragraph 13 below, the refund shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips and the seller with respect to such rescinded sale. 11 Export, Import and Endangered Species Licences and Permits Before bidding for any property, prospective buyers are advised to make their own enquiries as to whether a licence is required to export a lot from Switzerland or to import it into another country. Prospective buyers are advised that some countries prohibit the import of property made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value. Accordingly, prior to bidding, prospective buyers considering export of purchased lots should familiarize themselves with relevant export and import regulations of the countries concerned. Please note that the US prohibits the importation of any item containing African elephant ivory. Asian elephant ivory may be imported in to the US only if accompanied by independent scientific analysis of continent of origin and
confirmation the object is more than 100 years old. With regard to any item containing endangered species other than elephant ivory, an importer into the US must provide documented evidence of the species identification and age of an object in order to demonstrate that the item qualifies as an antique. This will require the buyer to obtain an independent appraisal certify the species of endangered material on the object and certifying that the object is not less than 100 years of age. A prospective buyer planning to import an object containing endangered species into the US may not rely on Phillips cataloguing to establish the species of endangered material on the object or to establish the age of the object and must consult with a qualified independent appraiser prior to placing a bid on the lot.
It is solely the buyer’s responsibility to comply with these laws and to obtain any necessary export, import and endangered species licences or permits. Failure to obtain a licence or permit or delay in so doing will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips has marked in the catalogue lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material, but we do not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species. 12. US Imports Customs Tariffs Buyers intending to import property into the United States of America should note that US Customs may charge an additional import duty upon the importation of (i) products manufactured or created in mainland China and (ii) printed materials (including photographs, prints, lithographs, books and designs) printed in the UK or Germany. Phillips will mark with a symbol lots which may be subject to additional US import tariffs, where this is known to us. Please note, however, that any such markings are done by us only as a convenience to bidders. Phillips does not accept liability for errors including failing to mark lots accurately or for the absence of any marking. Export, Import, Sales and/or Use Taxes Buyers should note that they are responsible for all charges, duties and taxes related to the exportation and importation of lots shipped by them or shipped on their behalf, including any applicable Sales and/or Use Taxes which may be due on importing the property to the United States. Please contact the department organising the auction for further details. 13 Privacy (a) You acknowledge and understand that we may process your personal data (including potentially special category data) in accordance with our privacy policy from time to time as published at www.phillips.com or available by emailing dataprotection@phillips.com. (b) Our privacy policy sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collect and process; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data (including for example the provision of auction, private sale and related services; the performance and enforcement of these terms and conditions; the carrying out of identity and credit checks; keeping you informed about upcoming auctions, exhibitions and special events; and generally where reasonably necessary in the management and operation of our business); (iii) the lawful bases on which we rely in undertaking our processing of your personal data; (iv) your rights in respect of our processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information as required by applicable laws. (c) Phillips premises and sale and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes and will be filmed during the auction for simultaneous live broadcast on our and third party websites and applications. By remaining in these areas, you acknowledge that you may be photographed, filmed and recorded and grant your permission for your likeness and voice to be included in such recordings. If you do not wish to be photographed or filmed or appear in such recordings, please speak to a member of Phillips staff. Your communications with Phillips, including by telephone and online (e.g.
telephone and on-line bidding) may also be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process it in accordance with our Privacy Policy available at www.phillips.com. 14 Limitation of Liability (a) Subject to sub-paragraph (e) below, the total liability of Phillips, our affiliated companies and the seller to the buyer in connection with the sale of a lot shall be limited to the Purchase Price actually paid by the buyer for the lot. (b) Except as otherwise provided in this Paragraph 14, none of Phillips, any of our affiliated companies or the seller (i) is liable for any errors or omissions, whether orally or in writing, in information provided to prospective buyers by Phillips or any of our affiliated companies or (ii) accepts responsibility to any bidder in respect of acts or omissions, whether negligent or otherwise, by Phillips or any of our affiliated companies in connection with the conduct of the auction or for any other matter relating to the sale of any lot. (c) All warranties other than the Authorship Warranty, express or implied, including any warranty of satisfactory quality and fitness for purpose, are specifically excluded by Phillips, our affiliated companies and the seller to the fullest extent permitted by law. (d) Subject to sub-paragraph (e) below, none of Phillips, any of our affiliated companies or the seller shall be liable to the buyer for any loss or damage beyond the refund of the Purchase Price referred to in sub-paragraph (a) above, whether such loss or damage is characterised as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the Purchase Price to the fullest extent permitted by law. (e) No provision in these Conditions of Sale shall be deemed to exclude or limit the liability of Phillips or any of our affiliated companies to the buyer in respect of any fraud or fraudulent misrepresentation made by any of us or in respect of death or personal injury caused by our negligent acts or omissions. 15 Copyright The copyright in all images, illustrations and written materials produced by or for Phillips relating to a lot, including the contents of this catalogue, is and shall remain at all times the property of Phillips and such images and materials may not be used by the buyer or any other party without our prior written consent. Phillips and the seller make no representations or warranties that the buyer of a lot will acquire any copyright or other reproduction rights in it. 16 General (a) These Conditions of Sale, as changed or supplemented as provided in Paragraph 1 above, and Authorship Warranty set out the entire agreement between the parties with respect to the transactions contemplated herein and supersede all prior and contemporaneous written, oral or implied understandings, representations and agreements. (b) Notices to Phillips shall be in writing and addressed to the department in charge of the sale, quoting the reference number specified at the beginning of the sale catalogue. Notices to clients shall be addressed to the last address notified by them in writing to Phillips. (c) These Conditions of Sale are not assignable by any buyer without our prior written consent but are binding on the buyer’s successors, assigns and representatives. (d) Should any provision of these Conditions of Sale be held void, invalid or unenforceable for any reason, the remaining provisions shall remain in full force and effect. No failure by any party to exercise, nor any delay in exercising, any right or remedy under these Conditions of Sale shall act as a waiver or release thereof in whole or in part. 17 Law and Jurisdiction (a) The rights and obligations of the parties with respect to these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty, the conduct of the auction and any matters related to any of the foregoing shall be governed by and interpreted in accordance with Swiss law.
(b) For the benefit of Phillips, all bidders and sellers agree that the ordinary courts of the Canton of Geneva, Switzerland are to have exclusive jurisdiction to settle all disputes arising in connection with all aspects of all matters or transactions to which these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty relate or apply, subject to appeal to the Federal Tribunal. All parties agree that Phillips shall retain the right to bring proceedings in any court other than the ordinary courts of the Canton of Geneva. (c) All bidders and sellers irrevocably consent to service of process or any other documents in connection with proceedings in any court by facsimile transmission, personal service, delivery by mail or in any other manner permitted by Swiss law, the law of the place of service or the law of the jurisdiction where proceedings are instituted at the last address of the bidder or seller known to Phillips.
Authorship Warranty Phillips warrants the authorship of property in this auction catalogue described in headings in BOLD or CAPITALIZED type for a period of five years from date of sale by Phillips, subject to the exclusions and limitations set forth below and the Important Notices set out in this catalogue immediately following the Guide for Prospective Buyers. (a) Phillips gives this Authorship Warranty only to the original buyer of record (i.e., the registered successful bidder) of any lot. This Authorship Warranty does not extend to (i) subsequent owners of the property, including purchasers or recipients by way of gift from the original buyer, heirs, successors, beneficiaries and assigns; (ii) property where the description in the catalogue (including descriptions accessed via QR Codes appearing in this catalogue) states that there is a conflict of opinion on the authorship of the property; (iii) property where our attribution of authorship was on the date of sale consistent with the generally accepted opinions of specialists, scholars or other experts; (iv) property whose description or dating is proved inaccurate by means of scientific methods or tests not generally accepted for use at the time of the publication of the catalogue or which were at such time deemed unreasonably expensive or impractical to use or likely in our reasonable opinion to have caused damage or loss in value to the lot; or (v) property where there has been no material loss in value from the value of the lot had it been as described in the heading of the catalogue entry. (b) In any claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty, Phillips reserves the right, as a condition to rescinding any sale under this warranty, to require the buyer to provide to us at the buyer’s expense the written opinions of two recognized experts approved in advance by Phillips. We shall not be bound by any expert report produced by the buyer and reserve the right to consult our own experts at our expense. If Phillips agrees to rescind a sale under the Authorship Warranty, we shall refund to the buyer the reasonable costs charged by the experts commissioned by the buyer and approved in advance by us. (c) Subject to the exclusions set forth in subparagraph (a) above, the buyer may bring a claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty provided that (i) he or she has notified Phillips in writing within three months of receiving any information which causes the buyer to question the authorship of the lot, specifying the auction in which the property was included, the lot number in the auction catalogue and the reasons why the authorship of the lot is being questioned and (ii) the buyer returns the lot to Phillips to the salesroom in which it was purchased in the same condition as at the time of its auction and is able to transfer good and marketable title in the lot free from any third party claim arising after the date of the auction. Phillips has discretion to waive any of the foregoing requirements set forth in this subparagraph (c) or subparagraph (b) above. (d) The buyer understands and agrees that the exclusive remedy for any breach of the Authorship Warranty shall be rescission of the sale and refund of the original Purchase Price paid. This remedy shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips, any of our affiliated companies and the seller and is in lieu of any other remedy available as a matter of law or equity. This means that none of Phillips, any of our affiliated companies or the seller shall be liable for loss or damage beyond the remedy expressly provided in this Authorship Warranty, whether such loss or damage is characterized as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the original Purchase Price.
Sale information Geneva, 8 & 9 May 2021
Client Relations Manager at Bacs & Russo Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com Head of Watches, Continental Europe and Middle East Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 8189 aghotbi@phillips.com Specialists Tiffany To +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com Virginie Liatard-Roessli +41 22 317 8182 vliatard@phillips.com
Auction & Viewing Location La Réserve 301, Route de Lausanne 1293 Bellevue, Switzerland Auctions Saturday, 8 May 2021, 2pm Session 1 Lots 1–130 Sunday, 9 May 2021, 2pm Session 2 Lots 131–236 Please register to bid online, absentee or by phone.
Specialist & Head of Digital Strategy Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com Specialist & Business Development Associate Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com Cataloguer Edoardo Bolla +41 79 552 73 68 ebolla@phillips.com
New York Head of Watches Americas, International Strategy Advisor Paul Boutros +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com Senior International Specialist Doug Escribano +1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com International Specialist and Head of Perpetual, Americas Geoff Hess +1 917 297 6328 ghess@phillips.com Specialist Isabella Proia +1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com Business Development Manager Daniella Rosa +1 212 940 1395 drosa@phillips.com Administrator Jennifer Chung +1 212 940 1314 jenniferchung@phillips.com Hong Kong Head of Watches, Asia Thomas Perazzi +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com
Regional Director, Business Development Director Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183 nmonbaron@phillips.com
Head of Watches, Hong Kong Jill Chen +852 2318 2033 jillchen@phillips.com
Business Development Manager Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187 dortega@phillips.com
Head of Sale & Specialist Zi Yong Ho +852 2318 2032 ziyongho@phillips.com
Administrators Dominik Teichert +41 22 317 96 67 dteichert@phillips.com
Associate Specialist Shoyo Kawamura +852 2318 2035 shoyokawamura@phillips.com
When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as CH080121 or The Geneva Watch Auction: XIII.
Alexia Rinalducci +41 22 317 96 67 arinalducci@phillips.com
Cataloguer/Designer Gertrude Wong +852 2318 2045 gertrudewong@phillips.com
Absentee and Telephone Bids
Shipping & Office Coordinator Charles-Henri Gounod +41 22 317 96 17 chgounod@phillips.com
Senior Business Manager, Asia Felix Yip +852 2318 2034 felixyip@phillips.com
Finance & Office Administration Francesco Campi +41 22 317 96 71 fcampi@phillips.com
Administrator Stanley Sit +852 2318 2018 stanleysit@phillips.com
Watchmaker, Technical Support Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com
Administrator Becky Ng +852 2318 2031 beckyng@phillips.com
Under the aegis of Maître Tristan Reymond, Huissier Judiciaire Viewing Thursday, 6 May, 10am–8pm Friday, 7 May, 10am–8pm Saturday, 8 May, 9am–12:30pm Sunday, 9 May, 9am–12:30pm Sale Designation
Tel +41 22 317 8181 Fax +41 22 317 8180 bidsgeneva@phillips.com Watch Department Geneva Senior Consultants Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com
London International Specialist James Marks +44 20 7901 7916 jmarks@phillips.com Specialist Chris Youé +44 777 814 3563 cyoue@phillips.com Sales Coordinator & Client Liaison Jacky Lam +44 7899 795870 jlam@phillips.com Paris International Business Development Director Pansy Ku +33 1 53 71 77 89 pku@phillips.com Tokyo Senior Specialist Consultant Genki Sakamoto +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com Senior Consultant Kaz Fujimoto +81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com Taiwan General Manager, Taiwan Cindy Yen +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com Consultant Zachary Lu +852 2318 2034 zacharylu@phillips.com
PERPETUAL Exceptional watches available for immediate purchase
Enquiries James Marks T +44 207 901 7916 M +44 7760 848 881 perpetual@phillips.com
Highly sought after, “50th Anniversary” Rolex Submariner, nicknamed “The Kermit”.
30 Berkeley Square London W1J 6EX
phillips.com/watches @phillipsperpetual
phillips.com/watches