The 2021 New York Watch Auction New York / 11 & 12 December 2021
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Watch Department
New York Head of Watches Americas, International Strategy Advisor Paul Boutros +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com
Specialist & Business Development Associate Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com
Senior International Specialist Doug Escribano +1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com
Cataloguer Edoardo Bolla +41 79 552 73 68 ebolla@phillips.com
International Specialist and Head of Perpetual, Americas Geoff Hess +1 917 297 6328 ghess@phillips.com
International Business Director Myriam Christinaz +41 22 317 8184 mchristinaz@phillips.com
Specialist Isabella Proia +1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com Business Development Manager Daniella Rosa +1 212 940 1395 drosa@phillips.com Sale Coordinator Ryan Lee +1 212 940 1314 rlee@phillips.com Geneva Senior Consultant Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com Senior Consultant Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com Client Relations Manager at Bacs & Russo Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com Head of Watches, Continental Europe and Middle East Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 8189 aghotbi@phillips.com Senior International Specialist Tiffany To +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com Specialist Virginie Liatard-Roessli +41 22 317 8182 vliatard@phillips.com International Head of Digital Strategy Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com
Regional Director, Business Development Director Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183 nmonbaron@phillips.com Business Development Manager Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187 dortega@phillips.com Senior Administrator Dominik Teichert +41 22 317 96 67 dteichert@phillips.com Senior Administrator Alexia Rinalducci +41 22 317 96 67 arinalducci@phillips.com Shipping & Office Coordinator Charles-Henri Gounod +41 79 532 0395 chgounod@phillips.com Finance & Office Administration Francesco Campi +41 22 317 96 71 fcampi@phillips.com Watchmaker, Technical Support Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com Hong Kong Head of Watches, Asia Thomas Perazzi +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com
Cataloguer/Designer Gertrude Wong +852 2318 2045 gertrudewong@phillips.com Senior Business Manager, Asia Felix Yip +852 2318 2034 felixyip@phillips.com Administrator Stanley Sit +852 2318 2018 stanleysit@phillips.com Administrator Becky Ng +852 2318 2031 beckyng@phillips.com London International Head of Perpetual James Marks +44 20 7901 7916 jmarks@phillips.com Specialist Chris Youé +44 777 814 3563 cyoue@phillips.com Sales Coordinator & Client Liaison Jacky Lam +44 7899 795870 jlam@phillips.com Paris International Business Development Director Pansy Ku +33 1 53 71 77 89 pku@phillips.com China Director of Watches, China Andy Zhang +86 138 1882 7196 andyzhang@phillips.com Tokyo Senior Specialist Consultant Genki Sakamoto +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com Senior Consultant Kaz Fujimoto +81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com
Head of Watches, Hong Kong Jill Chen +852 2318 2033 jillchen@phillips.com
Taiwan General Manager, Taiwan Cindy Yen +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
Head of Sale & Specialist Zi Yong Ho +852 2318 2032 ziyongho@phillips.com
Consultant Zachary Lu +852 2318 2034 zacharylu@phillips.com
Associate Specialist Shoyo Kawamura +852 2318 2035 shoyokawamura@phillips.com
Thailand Senior Consultant Rika Dila +66 818 186 878 rikadila@phillips.com
The 2021 New York Watch Auction New York / 11 & 12 December 2021
Auction & Viewing Location
Sale Designation
432 Park Avenue, New York 10022 Auction
When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as NY080121 or Watches.
Session 1, lots 1–81 Saturday, 11 December at 10am
Absentee and Telephone Bids
Session 2, lots 82–165 Sunday, 12 December at 10am
Tel +1 212 940 1228 Fax +1 212 940 1749 bidsnewyork@phillips.com
Please register to bid online, absentee or by phone. Viewing by appointment 3–10 December Monday–Saturday 10am–6pm Sunday 12pm–6pm Contact watchesny@phillips.com or +1 212 940 1314 to arrange your visit.
Advisory Board Jean-Claude Biver Henry Chan Helmut Crott Ike Honigstock Stephen Charles Li David Lou TK Mak Auro Montanari Jason Singer Kenneth Wong
Our Team Watches Senior Executives Edward Dolman
Cheyenne Westphal
Stephen Brooks
Executive Chairman
Global Chairwoman
Chief Executive Officer
+1 212 940 1241 edolman@phillips.com
+44 20 7318 4044 cwestphal@phillips.com
+44 0 20 7318 4046 sbrooks@phillips.com
© Brigitte Lacombe
Senior Consultants Aurel Bacs
Livia Russo
Senior Consultant
Senior Consultant
+41 22 317 81 88 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com
+41 22 317 81 88 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Executives David Norman
Hugues Joffre
Chairman, Americas
Senior Advisor to the CEO
+1 212 940 1280 dnorman@phillips.com
+44 207 901 7923 hjoffre@phillips.com
Jonathan Crockett
Arnold Lehman
Chairman, Asia, Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art, Asia
Senior Advisor to the CEO +1 212 940 1385 alehman@phillips.com
+852 2318 2023 jcrockett@phillips.com
Jamie Niven
Derek Collins
Senior Advisor to the CEO
Senior Consultant to Chairman’s Office, Asia
+1 917 880 2532 jniven@phillips.com
+852 2318 2000 derekcollins@phillips.com
Deputy Chairmen & Chairwomen
Svetlana Marich
Jean-Paul Engelen
Robert Manley
Peter Sumner
Miety Heiden
Worldwide Deputy Chairman
Deputy Chairman, Worldwide Co-Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art
Deputy Chairman, Worldwide Co-Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art
Deputy Chairwoman, Head of Private Sales
+1 212 940 1390 jpengelen@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1358 rmanley@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Europe, Senior International Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art
Vanessa Hallett
Vivian Pfeiffer
Marianne Hoet
Elizabeth Goldberg
Jeremiah Evarts
Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Worldwide Head of Photographs
Deputy Chairman, Americas, Head of Business Development, Americas
Deputy Chairwoman, Europe, Senior Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art
Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Senior International Specialist, American Art
Deputy Chairman, Americas, Senior International Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art
+1 212 940 1243 vhallett@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1392 vpfeiffer@phillips.com
+32 3257 3026 mhoet@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1239 egoldberg@phillips.com
+1 917 304 4329 jevarts@phillips.com
+44 20 7318 4010 smarich@phillips.com
+44 20 7901 7943 mheiden@phillips.com
+44 20 7318 4063 psumner@phillips.com
Bacs & Russo
Aurel Bacs
Livia Russo
Clara Kessi
Senior Consultant
Senior Consultant
Client Relations Manager
+41 22 317 81 88 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com
+41 22 317 81 88 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com
+41 22 317 81 88 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com
International Business Directors
Myriam Christinaz
Pansy Ku
International Business Director
International Business Development Director
+41 22 317 81 84 mchristinaz@phillips.com
+33 1 53 71 77 89 pku@phillips.com
Geneva
Alexandre Ghotbi
Tiffany To
Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Marcello de Marco
Edoardo Bolla
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and Middle East
Senior International Specialist
Specialist
Cataloguer
+41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com
+41 22 317 81 82 vliatard@phillips.com
Specialist, Business Development Associate
+41 22 317 81 89 aghotbi@phillips.com
Nathalie Monbaron
Diana Ortega
Arthur Touchot
Regional Director, Business Development Director
Business Development Manager
International Head of Digital Strategy
+41 22 317 81 83 nmonbaron@phillips.com
+41 22 317 81 87 dortega@phillips.com
+41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com
+41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com
+41 79 552 73 68 ebolla@phillips.com
Hong Kong
Thomas Perazzi
Jill Chen
Zi Yong Ho
Shoyo Kawamura
Gertrude Wong
Head of Watches, Asia
Head of Watches, Hong Kong
Head of Sale, Specialist
Associate Specialist
Cataloguer/Designer
+852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com
+852 2318 2033 jillchen@phillips.com
+852 2318 2032 ziyongho@phillips.com
+852 2318 2035 shoyokawamura@phillips.com
+852 2318 2045 gertrudewong@phillips.com
China
Tokyo
Andy Zhang
Genki Sakamoto
Kaz Fujimoto
Cindy Yen
Zach Lu
Rika Dila
Director of Watches, China
Senior Specialist Consultant
Senior Consultant
General Manager, Taiwan
Consultant
Senior Consultant
+86 138 1882 7196 andyzhang@phillips.com
+81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com
+81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com
+886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
+852 2318 2034 zacharylu@phillips.com
+66 818 186 878 rikadila@phillips.com
Paul Boutros
Doug Escribano
Geoff Hess
Isabella Proia
Daniella Rosa
Head of Watches, Americas International Strategy Advisor
Senior International Specialist
International Specialist and Head of Perpetual, Americas
Specialist
Business Development Manager
+1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com
+1 917 297 6328 ghess@phillips.com
Taiwan
Thailand
New York
London
James Marks
Christopher Youé
International Head of Perpetual
Specialist
+44 20 7901 7916 jmarks@phillips.com
+44 7778 143 563 cyoue@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1395 drosa@phillips.com
Welcome By Paul Boutros
I’m delighted to present to you our 2021 New York Watch Auction catalog – our fifth annual sale in New York. Taking place for the first time over two days, our Saturday session features a wonderful selection of watches that could have had a theme titled, “Treasures from the Americas,” as most were sourced from American original owners and collectors. We are thrilled to offer two stunning, fresh-tomarket, vintage gold “Paul Newman” Daytonas. These include an 18 karat “John Player Special”, ref. 6241, and its counterpart, a 14 karat ref. 6241 with champagne “Paul Newman” dial. Both are exceptionally well-preserved, and each can easily be considered trophy watches for the most discerning collectors. Consigned by a renowned American surgeon, we’re proud to also offer a collection of superb vintage watches reflecting two of his greatest passions – watch collecting and surfing. His understanding of watchmaking, and the ferocious strength of ocean waters, gave him a particular appreciation for water resistant watches from the post-war years. Fittingly titled “Ride the Wave”, the collection comprises 18 water-resistant watches spanning a diverse range of brands, styles, and eras, and all are of exceptional quality. Our Sunday session is led by an extraordinary pocket watch by the trailblazing, independent British watchmaker, George Daniels. The fourth watch ever made by Daniels, it measures an impressive 62mm in diameter and features
an Earnshaw spring-detent escapement and tourbillon a hand-made, precision timekeeper of exceptional quality. Further representing the very best of British watchmaking, an extremely fine “Series 1” watch by Daniels’ only protégé, Roger Smith, will also be offered – with the exclusive serial number of ‘1’ – the very first example of the model made. We are humbled and honored to offer a culturally and historically important, vintage Omega Speedmaster, previously owned by the American literary icon, Ralph Ellison. His monumental novel, Invisible Man, published in 1952, had profound impacts on American literature, culture, and the arts. Recently proven without any doubt to be his, Ellison cherished and wore this very Speedmaster throughout his lifetime since obtaining it in 1968. As we go to print, many of the restrictions for social gatherings and international travel to the U.S. have been lifted, making a live, “in-person” auction once again possible for the first time since 2019. Perfect timing indeed, as Phillips has just recently completed the construction of its New York Headquarters at 432 Park Avenue. We look very forward to welcoming you at one of our many preview exhibitions around the world, and to our new, museum-like space on December 11th and 12th for this auction. Yours sincerely, Paul Boutros
The 2021 New York Watch Auction Session 1 11 December 2021, 10am Lots 1–81
1.
A highly attractive new-old-stock stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet, with Certificate of Origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2019
Reference No.
5711/1A-010
Movement No.
7’212’922
Case No.
6’310’158
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max overall length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed.
Estimate $40,000-80,000 • €34,300-68,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated April 25, 2019, fitted presentation box, leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging.
Reference 5711 is the modern iteration of the first luxury sports wristwatch by Patek Philippe, the Nautilus. Launched in 1976, the reference 3700 together with the Audemars Piguet counterpart the Royal Oak, and Vacheron Constantin’s 222 effectively reshaped the market, launching the luxury sports watch category. Introduced in 2006, the reference 5711 featured new innovations and updated the watch for modern times, with some slight variations seen between the two models. Instead of the original two-piece monobloc case, the 5711 was constructed with a three-piece case that allowed for easier assembly, servicing, and an exhibition caseback. It also measured 1mm wider than the original 3700, and was 0.7mm thicker. The 5711 was powered by an in-house self-winding movement, the robust caliber 324 SC, which permitted a center seconds indication for the first time. A higher-grade of steel was used for improved corrosion resistance, and the bracelet was upgraded and refined, with the center links slightly flattened and the buckle now triple folding. Arguably one of the most coveted modern timepieces and recently discontinued, the present example is offered by its original owner in excellent condition and complete with all of its original accessories. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5711A Nautilus
2.
A highly attractive new-old-stock stainless steel wristwatch with white dial, date and bracelet, with Certificate of Origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2019
Reference No.
5711/1A
Movement No.
7’160’194
Case No.
6’329’112
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max overall length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed.
Estimate $30,000-60,000 • €25,700-51,500 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated June 29, 2019, fitted presentation box, leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging.
To commemorate the 30th anniversary of the iconic Nautilus, Patek Philippe released new models in 2006 including the time only reference 5711, the 5712 with date, moon phase and power reserve, a flyback chronograph wristwatch, reference
5980, and the very rare reference 5800. Originally envisioned by genius designer Gerald Genta in 1976, the Nautilus’s case design was inspired by a luxury liner’s portholes, subtly underlining the marriage of elegance and sporty robustness found in this timepiece. The reference 5711 represented the return of the “Jumbo” Nautilus, featuring a design similar to the original model, but with a few technical upgrades, including an in-house self-winding movement caliber 324 S C, replacing the JaegerLeCoultre-based caliber featured in the reference 3700. Additionally, the new Nautilus was fitted with a sapphire caseback enabling the wearer to admire the in-house caliber in action. The bracelet was further refined and the case adopted a slightly rounded appearance. Research indicates the striated white dials (011) were produced between 2012 and 2019, making this example one of the last. Now discontinued in blue and white dial variants, the Nautilus remains a virtually impossible-to-obtain timepiece, with waiting lists at retailers stretching into years, indicating how timeless and universally praised this design has become since it was first introduced in 1976. The present model is in new-oldstock condition, and offered by the original owner complete with its Certificate of Origin and presentation box. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5711A Nautilus “Piano Dial”
3.
A highly attractive stainless steel annual calendar wristwatch with moon phase, and bracelet, with Certificate of Origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2019
Reference No.
5726/1A-014
Movement No.
7’268’311
Case No.
6’328’480
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 S QA LU 24H, 34 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max overall length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate $30,000-60,000 • €25,700-51,500 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated September 21, 2019, fitted presentation box, setting pin, one leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging
In 1996, following years of research, Patek Philippe patented and launched the reference 5035 - an all-new annual calendar wristwatch allowing the wearer to adjust the calendar indications only once per year between February 28th or 29th and March 1st. It was a welcome alternative to simple calendar watches that required adjustment for all non 31-day months, and higher-cost full perpetual calendar watches.
The first annual calendar watch was the brain child of Laurent Junod, technical director at Patek Philippe, who for a graduate engineering project while at University of Lausanne, designed an ingenious new mechanical way for the calendar to function. The complication went on to become a staple in Patek Philippe’s production and today is found throughout their collections including the iconic Nautilus, launched as the reference 5726 in 2010. The wristwatch featured a perfectly symmetrical dial layout with two apertures at 12 o’clock indicating the day and month, moon phases and 24-hour indication via a subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock with an aperture indicating the date below. Initially launched with a grey dial and fitted on a leather strap, Patek Philippe introduced a white-dial variant with bracelet in 2012 – both variants now discontinued. They were replaced in 2019 with the reference 5726/1A-014 featuring a blue dial and bracelet. The present example is fresh to the market, and offered by the original owner. It is the first to appear at auction with the striated blue dial. The Nautilus is a milestone timepiece known for its classic modern design, and forty-five years since the original model was released, collectors have sought the many iterations produced by Patek Philippe. This is a rare opportunity to own one of these lovely annual calendar watches, which is complete with Certificate of Origin and presentation box. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5726A Nautilus Annual Calendar
4.
A highly attractive new-old-stock stainless steel wristwatch with date, power reserve, moon phase, and bracelet, with Certificate of Origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2019
Reference No.
5712/1A
Movement No.
7’234’366
Case No.
6’276’137
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240 PS IRM C LU, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max overall length 190
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
43mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed.
Estimate $40,000-80,000 • €34,300-68,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated April 25, 2019, fitted presentation box, setting pin, leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging.
First launched in 1976, the Nautilus is one of Patek Philippe’s most iconic watch references ever produced. Inspired by the proportions of maritime portholes, the reference 3700 merged Patek Philippe’s elegant design philosophy with durability to create the ultimate luxury sports watch to withstand the elements. Today, the model has become a true collector’s timepiece and ultimately changed the way we perceive sports watches. Displaying the date, power reserve and moon phase complication, the reference 5712 was the successor of reference 3712, which was the first complicated Nautilus model. The new version featured a larger case at 43mm in diameter, and the dial had narrower grooves. Made to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus in 2006, the reference 5712 was a commercial success. Its classic appeal, combined with a hefty presence makes it one of the most desirable modern sports watches available on the market today. In fact, it is incredibly difficult to obtain one at a Patek Philippe retailer and requires years of waiting to be allocated one. The present example is offered for the first time at auction by the original owner. In new-old-stock condition, the watch is complete with all of its accessories, and is a wonderful addition to any collection. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5712A Nautilus
5.
A highly attractive stainless steel dual time flyback chronograph with date, and bracelet, with Certificate of Origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2019
Reference No.
5990/1A
Movement No.
7’246’205
Case No.
6’293’706
Model Name
Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. CH 28-520 C FUS, 34 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max overall length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate $40,000-80,000 • €34,300-68,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated September 21, 2019, fitted presentation box, setting pin, one leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging.
Patek Philippe is known for their mechanical innovations and master craftsmanship when creating and producing complicated watches. In 2011, they introduced a 21st century timepiece, the Aquanaut Travel Time reference 5164, featuring a practical dual time function indicated by an additional white skeleton hand. The dial depicted both home and local time, along with day and night indication. Fitted with two pushers
on the left side of the case band, the pushers easily allowed adjustment of the time while mirroring the right side of the watch for well-balanced symmetry. Acclaimed by collectors as one of the most interesting model line evolutions introduced by Patek Philippe, the new Aquanaut garnered much attention and soon a general call went out for a similar model in the Nautilus collection. In 2014, Patek Philippe released the reference 5990 featuring the same dual time complication as the Aquanaut Travel Time, but now combined with the in-house, automatic flyback chronograph caliber 28-250. Like other Nautilus chronographs such as the reference 5980, the ref. 5990 incorporates unobtrusive chronograph pushers that helped maintain the iconic design of the original reference 3700 “Jumbo” Nautilus first released in 1976. Another highly praised detail was the placement of the buttons used to change the local time, cleverly disguised in the left “flap” of the Nautilus case, allowing for minimal modification to the eternal Genta design while keeping the symmetry of the case. Patek Philippe has long offered timepieces that are cherished both for their design and innovation, and the Nautilus collection is a power house in the world of watch collecting. The present reference 5990 is offered by the original owner and comes complete with its Certificate of Origin and presentation box. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5990A Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph
6.
A very fine and attractive pink gold wristwatch with date, center seconds, bracelet, warranty card and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 2018
Reference No.
15400OR
Case No.
K09652
Model Name
Royal Oak
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4302, 32 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, stamped 1220, max overall length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Audemars Piguet double deployant clasp
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed.
Estimate $50,000-100,000 €42,900-85,800 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet International Warranty card, wooden presentation box, product literature and outer packaging.
Launched in 1972, the Royal Oak was the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet. Designed overnight in response to an urgent request for an ‘unprecedented steel watch’, it was at the same time the most expensive stainless steel watch ever made. Today the Royal Oak is a legend, accounting for over 70% of the brand’s sales. The brand sought famed designer Gerald Genta, who developed a brilliantly engineered, monoblock case, with a distinctively maritime feel, featuring an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal, white gold screws, and a dial with tapisserie motif. Now an icon in the horological world, the Royal Oak has undergone many iterations and includes examples from simple time only versions to skeletonized Grande complications models. The Royal Oak reference 15400 was launched in 2012, and is the largest of the Royal Oak models with various other references measuring, 39mm, 36mm and 33mm. The reference has a bold look, yet maintains the harmony and balanced design collectors have come to enjoy. The blue Grande Tapisserie dial complements the pink gold case superbly. The watch is in exceptional condition, probably only worn a handful of times, and remains in like-new condition. Today, this model is one of the most sought after in the market, and rarely seen at any boutique. Complete with its original box and international guarantee, this is a fantastic opportunity for collectors to acquire an iconic Royal Oak wristwatch. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
AUDEMARS PIGUET
Ref. 15400OR Royal Oak
7.
An exemplary and highly rare platinum and stainless steel perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indicator, bracelet, and extract
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1995
Reference No.
25820SP.OO.0944SP.02
Movement No.
424’960
Case No.
E25319; No. 094
Model Name
Royal Oak Quantième Perpetuel
Material
Platinum and stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2120/2802, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel and platinum Royal Oak bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel double deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $60,000-120,000 €51,500-103,000 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Register confirming this watch was registered October 27th, 1995 and service box.
In 1982, Audemars Piguet merged two of their most iconic creations together, the perpetual calendar and the Royal Oak. Powered by the legendary caliber 2120/2800, combining an ultra-thin automatic base caliber with a Dubois Dépraz perpetual calendar module, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was born and sent shockwaves through the industry, ultimately helping Audemars Piguet weather the maelstrom of the Quartz Crisis. Early examples of the model featured a dial with the absence of a leap year indication manufactured from 1984 to 1993, and later models produced from 1993 onwards featured a leap year indicator at 12 o’clock, with the updated caliber 2120/2802. The audacity of the combination of high complication and luxury sports watch was unforeseen in the industry, and Audemars Piguet experimented liberally with limited edition examples, case metal combinations, and dial treatments. The present iteration combines a polished platinum bezel, polished platinum links, and a brushed stainless steel bracelet with a glossy, black grand tapisserie dial. The balance of the heavy platinum and light steel as well as the contrasting finishes allows for perfect wearability, and this present example of the reference 25820SP is offered fresh from a factory service at Audemars Piguet. Passed down to the current consignor by his father, it is offered now to begin a new life on the wrist of another. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL FAMILY
AUDEMARS PIGUET Ref. 25820SP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
8.
A very fine and attractive platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with oversized date, moon phase, 24-hour and leap year indications, and zero-reset function with guarantee and winding presentation box
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
Circa 2015
Reference No.
310.025
Movement No.
103’999
Case No.
216’656
Model Name
Langematik Perpetual
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. L922.1, 43 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum A. Lange & Söhne deployant clasp
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate $20,000-30,000 €17,200-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne Guarantee, automatic winding leather presentation box, batteries, setting pin, leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging.
When Walter Lange and Günter Blümlein set out to re-establish Lange’s great-grandfather’s Glashütte watch manufactory in 1990, they sought to innovate traditional horology by creating beautiful timepieces with outstanding hand-craftsmanship and modern designs. In 1994, A. Lange & Söhne released the now iconic Lange 1, elegant Saxonia, rectangular Arkadia and Pour le Mérite tourbillon, which today are appreciated for both their purity and mechanical ingenuity. Each timepiece featured manual wind mechanisms with the Pour le Mérite showcasing
Lange’s technical excellence with a movement featuring a chain and fusée for the first time in a wristwatch. The brand introduced their first automatic movement with the Langematik Sax-O-Mat in 1997 featuring an exquisite, gold and platinumrimmed winding rotor. It is from these early beginnings the Langematik Perpetual was born – originally launched at the turn of the new millennium, in 2001. The reference 310.025 has classic Lange aesthetics capturing the unrivalled skill and craftmanship of the brand. The design is reminiscent of 19th century pocket watches, but with an innovative 21st-century movement. The perpetual calendar is a favourite complication amongst collectors, and the Langematik Perpetual does not need adjusting until February 28th, 2100. Additionally, for precision timing the mechanism has a “zero-reset” feature, which when the crown is pulled out, the constant seconds hand resets to zero. Early Langematik Perpetual models featured a rectangular case pusher at the 10 o’clock, along with three recessed calendar correctors, however in 2005-2006 they replaced the extended case pusher with a recessed corrector as well, as found in the present watch manufactured in 2015. Produced from 2001 until 2017, the reference 310.025 is the longest produced Langematik model, and includes models in yellow, white and pink gold, as well as a limited edition of 100 examples in honey gold. The present platinum model is in excellent overall condition and complete with guarantee and winding presentation box. It is a tribute to both Ferdinand Adolf Lange’s ingenuity, and Walter Lange’s vision to recreate the brand with a 21st century appeal.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Langematik Perpetual
9.
An extremely fine and very rare limited edition stainless steel, skeletonized perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phase and bracelet, number 18 of 25 pieces
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 1993
Reference No.
25636ST
Case No.
No. 18/25, D-42031
Model Name
Royal Oak Quantième Perpetuel
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2120, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max overall length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet “AP” deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $100,000-200,000 €85,800-172,000 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives, service card, and service box.
First launched in 1972, the Royal Oak was the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet. Designed overnight in response to an urgent request for an ‘unprecedented steel watch’, it was at the time the most expensive stainless steel watch ever made.
In 1982, Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar – an exceptionally bold offering for the era. The brand would soon introduce a new design aesthetic, offering the Royal Oak with skeletonized dials and movements, which were virtually non-existent on wristwatches in the 1980s. These fully skeletonized watches allowed for a breathtaking view of the movement from both the front and back. They exemplified the very best of Swiss watchmaking, where non-essential metal from all of the movement’s plates and bridges were removed, and all remaining “skeletal” parts were hand engraved and finished. The present watch is part of a rare series of reference 25636 skeletonized perpetual calendar models sold by Audemars Piguet from 1986 through 1996. The reference 25636 was the last generation of skeletonized perpetual calendar models offered without a dedicated leap-year indicator, which would later be introduced on all subsequent Royal Oak perpetual calendar models by the mid-1990s. Consequently, these earlier generation, non-leap year models are highly appreciated by connoisseurs for the simple elegance of their less complicated dials. The present watch is an exceptionally rare version – one of just 25 stainless steel examples fitted with a rose-gold plated movement, the legendary caliber 2120. Its openworked, sapphire crystal dial features white sub-dials and outer minute track, with elegant, white gold baton hands. Appearing for the first time at auction, it is offered in excellent overall condition and represents a superb opportunity for the connoisseur.
AUDEMARS PIGUET Ref. 25636ST Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Openwork”
10.
A fine limited edition platinum wristwatch with black dial, original guarantee and presentation box, numbered 88 of 200
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
Circa 2015
Reference No.
236.049
Movement No.
111’992
Case No.
No. 88/200, 220’288
Model Name
1815 Anniversary F. A. Lange
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. L.051.1, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum A. Lange & Söhne buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
resemble pocket watches made during Ferdinand’s time. They feature three-quarter plates, blued screws, hand-engraved balance cocks, and gold chatons. Lange worked diligently to consistently reproduce movements in a move toward standardization and better timekeeping, as well as advance mechanical standards. In 1879, A. Lange & Söhne was granted patent number 9349 for a pocket watch movement that indicated how much time remained before a watch was fully unwound, which today collectors know as a power reserve.
Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne Guarantee dated 5 June, 2015, presentation box, leather envelope with product literature, and outer packaging.
The 1815 collection is known for precision timepieces in a wide variety of models including the Grande Complication masterpiece, annual calendars and chronographs, perpetual calendars with split-seconds, and time only wristwatches like the present lot. Each model is a tribute to the horological traditions Ferdinand Adolph Lange sought to achieve with one common design attribute found on each model: the railwaytrack minute scale. The reference 236.049 is a quintessential timepiece that defines the classic iconic wristwatches from this famed brand.
Released in 2015, the 1815 Anniversary F.A. Lange limited edition wristwatch commemorates the 200th anniversary of the firm’s founder, Ferdinand Adolph Lange, born in Dresden on 18 February 1815. The brand’s 1815 collection was launched in 1999 as a tribute to their founder honoring his exacting standards and precision quality movements, which today
This limited edition 1815 Anniversary F. A. Lange wristwatch is number 88 of 200 and offered in excellent condition complete with box and papers. The platinum case is elegantly offset by the black dial with a strong masculine appeal, and powered by the caliber L051.1 with hand engraved balance cock. The present model is a wonderful addition to any collection, both for its rarity and technical excellence.
Estimate $20,000-30,000 €17,200-25,700
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
1815 Anniversary F. A. Lange
11.
An exceptional and beautiful white gold perpetual calendar flyback chronograph wristwatch with leap year indicator, power reserve, and moonphase, with guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2009
Reference No.
410.030
Movement No.
62’376
Case No.
172’892
Model Name
Datograph Perpetual
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. cal. L952.1, 45 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold A. Lange & Söhne deployant buckle
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $30,000-60,000 €25,700-51,500 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne guarantee booklet dated 16 June 2009, instruction manual, leather wallet, setting pin, and inner and outer presentation boxes.
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual is arguably one of the most fascinating chronograph perpetual calendar wristwatches produced by a modern manufacture. With a beautiful combination of traditional watchmaking and fine aesthetics, the Datograph Perpetual displays a well-balanced dial layout on the front, and when flipped to the movement side, it displays its in-house manual movement, expertly finished throughout with Glashütte stripes and signature hand-engraved balance cock. The elegant display includes a 60-second counter and a 30-minute counter, as well as indications for the day of the week, month, leap year, and day/ night. Additionally, the chronograph integrates a useful flyback function, which is activated with the top chronograph pusher. This white gold A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual was the first to bear a German silver dial in this dark grey color, a hint of coolness against the subtle warmth of white gold. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first time an example of this reference has been offered publicly. It comes complete with its original box and accessories, and has been overall carefully worn and well-preserved, ready for its new owner.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Datograph Perpetual
12.
A magnificent, rare, and appealing limited edition stainless steel wristwatch with salmon dial, date, and bracelet, made to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak
AUDEMARS PIGUET
Ref. 14802ST Royal Oak Jubilee “Salmon”
Made for the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak in 1992, the reference 14802 was made in 1,000 examples as a tribute to the original Royal Oak model. With a case of 39 millimeters, it was a faithful homage to the original reference 5402ST, with one important difference – the use of a sapphire case back which displays the legendary, ultra-thin calibre 2121 with an engraved rotor to commemorate this special edition.
12.
A magnificent, rare, and appealing limited edition stainless steel wristwatch with salmon dial, date, and bracelet, made to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1994
Reference No.
14802ST.OO.0944ST.02
Movement No.
No. 0715/1000; 391’428
Case No.
D-35626
Model Name
Royal Oak “Jubilee”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed
Estimate $100,000-200,000 €85,800-172,000 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificate of Origin, product literature, numbered hang tag, numbered octagonal “Jubilee” presentation box and outer packaging.
Of the 1,000 pieces released, about 700 were made in stainless steel and of those 700, it is estimated that only 200-300 were fitted with the rare, resplendent salmon dial that has become in the intervening decades, overwhelmingly desirable to collectors. The rest of the stainless steel pieces were fitted with the blue-grey dials similar to the original 5402ST. The present reference 14802ST has been carefully cherished, coming from the collection of a keen-eyed collector of Audemars Piguet timepieces. It is complete with all of its original accessories, including a numbered octagonal presentation box reminiscent of the octagonal screwed bezel of the Royal Oak itself. With the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak on the horizon in 2022, demand for these rare commemorative pieces is poised to rise. Salmon dials in particular are rarely offered in the contemporary Audemars Piguet menu, and with less than 300 pieces ever produced, this is an extremely rare opportunity to obtain an extremely low production and absolutely gorgeous timepiece, perfect for the discerning collector.
AUDEMARS PIGUET
Ref. 14802ST Royal Oak Jubilee “Salmon”
13.
An extremely well-preserved and attractive limited edition platinum wristwatch with black dial, power reserve, Certificate of Authenticity, and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2006
Case No.
235-CS
Model Name
Chronomètre Souverain “Black Label”
Material
Platinum
Calibre
18k pink gold manual wind, cal. 1304, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum ardillon F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by Certificate of Authenticity dated 2006, instruction manual, polish cloth, invoice, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Crafted exclusively for previous owners of F.P. Journe timepieces, the Black Label collection is only available for purchase in Journe boutiques. With their distinctive black dials crafted in blackened silver decorated with a guilloché pattern, they are a subtle and elegant expression of exclusivity and craftsmanship. The Chronomètre Souverain is the simplest and purest iteration of Journe’s Black Label watches, with a deceptively restrained dial featuring power reserve and subsidiary seconds that belies the highly advanced chronometer-grade movement that beats within. Crafted in 18 karat pink gold and finely finished throughout, the caliber 1304 was built with the precision and technical mastery of marine chronometers in mind, as well as the wearability and comfort of the modern collector. The movement itself is a mere 3.75mm thick, and the overall thickness of the case measures 8.6mm. The present Chronomètre Souverain is in pristine condition, having hardly ever been worn, and coming from a distinguished collection of independent watches. It comes with its original accessories and additional straps, ready for a new wearer to enjoy. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
F.P. JOURNE
Chronomètre Souverain “Black Label”
14.
A very rare and fine limited edition white gold chronograph wristwatch with grey dial, pink gold hands, day and month, with Certificate of Origin, number 5 of 5
Manufacturer
De Bethune
Year
Circa 2005
Reference No.
DB12WT
Case No.
005
Model Name
DB12
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. Venus 175, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold De Bethune deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $25,000-50,000 Σ €21,500-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by a De Bethune Certificate of Origin dated 21st September, 2021.
In the 21st century, mechanical watchmaking continues to thrive, with a newfound movement to combine traditional watchmaking with contemporary aesthetics and techniques. De Bethune is a highly respected, independent Swiss brand manufacturing 21st century watches rooted in watchmaking extending back to the 18th century. The philosophy underpinning their efforts: “not doing more, but instead doing better”.
Founded in 2002 by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet, the pair shared the same passion and vision for the watchmaking of tomorrow. David Zanetta, a passionate collector of fine art, history and timepieces joined forces with Denis Flageollet, a fourth generation watchmaker to create the most technically aspiring timepieces without compromises. Since the launch of De Bethune, the independent manufacturer has impressively developed over 30 in-house movements. The present DB12 chronograph timepiece with large date and month indication is from the firm’s “Founding Collection” produced between 2002 to 2007. An early creation by the brand, the contemporary aesthetic draws one’s attention to De Bethune’s signature case with ogival lugs. Featuring a hand guilloché dark grey dial with pink gold feuille hands and indications, it is one of only five examples made for the Chicago-based retailer, Swiss Fine Timing. Combined with its futuristic white gold case, the two-register chronograph has a lovely appeal. Powering the DB12 is a vintage caliber Venus 175, beautifully hand-finished and modified with a date and month indicator, and decorated with “Côtes de Genève”. Consigned by the original owner and in exceptional condition, this very rare DB12 eloquently embodies the “no compromise” philosophy of De Bethune and is a potent mix of futuristic design and technical excellence that is a must have for the aficionado of contemporary independent horology. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
DE BETHUNE DB12 Chronograph Calendar “Swiss Fine Timing”
15.
A handsome and appealing titanium limited edition dual-time wristwatch with blue enamel dial, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Laurent Ferrier
Year
2017
Movement No.
No. 019
Case No.
13/15
Model Name
Galet Traveller Limited Edition for Hodinkee
Material
Titanium
Calibre
Automatic, cal. LF230.02, 41 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Titanium Laurent Ferrier pin buckle
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by polishing cloth, loupe, fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
Laurent Ferrier presented his first watch in 2010, the Galet Classique, a superbly classical yet suave timepiece with an exquisite and painstakingly hand decorated tourbillonequipped movement. His vision of purely elegant designs and superbly finished movements has made the brand a favorite amongst aficionados.
The present Galet Traveller is part of an extremely limited run of only fifteen watches made in collaboration with Hodinkee, the renowned online watch magazine, of which the present watch is number 13. The Galet Traveller is an innovative, modern take on the Patek Philippe travel time reference 2597 from the 1960s with two buttons on the case side that, once pressed, will move the hour hand backward or forward by one hour to set time in a new time zone. The hour of the wearer’s home time zone is elegantly displayed via an aperture at 9 o’clock. The present watch from 2017 features a cavalcade of details exclusive to this model and not found in other Galet Traveller models: a polished titanium case almost silky in appearance, the removal of the subsidiary seconds dial and date window, a stunning deep blue enamel dial center, and a ruthenium plated movement. The Galet Traveller features a double direct-impulse natural escapement (an escapement devised by Breguet in the late 18th century and which very few watchmakers have managed to recreate) using two nickel phosphorous escape wheels and a silicon lever for better distribution of energy. Presented in outstanding overall condition from the collection of the original owner, this Galet Traveller Limited Edition is accompanied with all of its original accessories. As the world reopens, this timepiece will be the perfect companion to explore a newly reinvigorated love of travel. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
LAURENT FERRIER Galet Traveller Limited Edition For Hodinkee
16.
A beautiful and avant-garde white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch, with spherical moonphase display, leap year indicator, grey dial, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer
De Bethune
Year
Circa 2007
Reference No.
DB15WT S1
Movement No.
DB154-2004
Case No.
No. 004
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. DB2004, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold De Bethune buckle
Dimensions
43mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $25,000-50,000 Σ €21,500-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by retailer-stamped and dated De Bethune Certificate of Authenticity, product literature, setting pin, additional exotic leather strap, inner fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
Horological maestro Denis Flageollet teamed up with collector extraordinaire David Zanetta in 2002 to create the independent watchmaking tour-de-force that is De Bethune, striving to implement avant-garde designs rooted in traditional watchmaking principals. In the almost two decades since they began to make watches together, they have developed over thirty in-house movements and a cavalcade of technical innovations. First introduced to the market in 2003, the De Bethune DB15 Perpetual Calendar is a highly legible, clean, delicate, and elegant perpetual calendar display combining De Bethune’s signature design cues for the dial and technically evolved movement elements. It was the first of De Bethune’s calibres with the now-ubiquitous spherical moonphase indicator. Already an important reference in the growing history of independent watchmaking, this DB15 with beautiful dark grey dial with gold Roman numerals and gold hands is part of an exclusive series of only eight pieces ever produced. Offered here in compelling overall condition from the original owner and complete with its original accessories, this DB15 is an incredibly rare and remarkable opportunity to procure a gem of the independent watchmaking landscape. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
DE BETHUNE DB15 Perpetual Calendar “Swiss Fine Timing”
17.
An ingenious, very rare, and desirable platinum chronometer wristwatch with double escapement and white gold dial
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2006
Reference No.
RN
Case No.
No. 266
Model Name
Chronomètre à Résonance
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1499.2, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $60,000-120,000 Σ €51,500-103,000
“Invenit et Fecit” Latin for “I invented it and I made it” has long been the motto inscribed on every F. P. Journe before it leaves the atelier of the famed genius and watchmaker François Paul Journe. With an eye on technical innovation for superior timekeeping, the brand has always sought to create watches that are both beautifully designed and technically sound. In keeping with this ethos, the Chronomètre à Résonance has become, since its launch in 2000, one of contemporary horology’s most iconic pieces. Inspired by the work of the great 18th century watchmaker Antide Janvier, and of course the influence of Abraham-Louis Breguet, Journe took up the challenge beginning in 1983 to first create a pocket-watch using the resonance phenomenon
and followed it with a wristwatch 16 years later: the world’s first wristwatch to feature the resonance phenomenon. The movement is composed of two independent balances, alternatively serving as an “exciter” and “resonator”. When in motion, the balances create the resonance effect and beat in synchrony, naturally evening out each other’s discrepancies and thus permitting greater accuracy. Two individual 12hour dials, each with its own small seconds, center the dial architecture. Sandwiched between the two, at the twelve o’clock position, is a power reserve indicator drawing inspiration from marine chronometers of the past. The purpose of this power reserve indicator is reversed, not indicating how many hours of power remain, but rather how many hours since the movement was last wound. This Chronomètre á Résonance is an early, secondgeneration example, as denoted by the reference shift from R (“resonance”) to RN (“resonance nouvelle”), with the first 18K rose gold movement, the caliber 1499.2. The 1499.2 was in production for a very limited time right after Journe transitioned away from rhodium-plated brass movements, likely only between 2005 and 2006. After this period, the 1499.2 was replaced by the 1499.3 distinguished by a different power reserve. The reference RN was discontinued in 2009, and with the combination of a retired dial layout, early transitional movement, and overall suave looks, these examples of the renowned Résonance have become highly sought after by collectors. The subtle elegance of the white gold dial against the cool platinum case conveys a restrained opulence suitable for the workplace or enjoying a cozy evening at home with one’s family.
F.P. JOURNE Chronomètre à Résonance “Second Series”
The “Ride the Wave” Collection Phillips is delighted to offer and present “Ride the Wave” – a collection of superb, water-resistant watches consigned by a distinguished gentleman collector. A renowned American surgeon, this extraordinary collection reflects two of his greatest passions outside of work – watch collecting and surfing. For the general public, it might seem like there is no association between the two. Getting to know him, one soon understands how surfing and collecting evoked the same emotions, with so many common traits shared between them.
Lot 26
As nobody is born an expert, a journey spanning decades developed his skills. At the beginning, he knew being humble was essential. At the age of 10, he was exposed to surfing and began teaching himself and from other surfers, learning through trial and error. At age 14 he purchased his first surfboard – coinciding with his initial interest in watches. On his own, he was captivated by the practical elegance of a watch worn on the wrist. He worked and saved, buying his first watch as a teenager - a gold Omega Constellation on crocodile strap. While at college, he switched to a sporty Omega watch. After graduating, he visited Europe, with is first stop being the Porsche factory in Stuttgart, Germany – a true “petrol head” as well. Observing a young German man his age taking delivery of a Porsche 911, he promised himself to do the same some day. That day came in June 1982 when he took European delivery of a Porsche 911SC. This theme of fulfilling goals was what led him to assemble his watch collection Following that delivery, his next stop was Bahnhofstrasse in Zurich, visiting the preeminent watch dealer, Beyer. Here, he purchased his first grail watch - a Rolex Datejust with black dial and steel and gold jubilee bracelet. Later, with his surgical practice now established, he continued his collecting journey in earnest. He would attend a vintage motorsport race in 1986 where the winning driver of a Porsche 908/3 captured his attention. He noticed a beautiful, Tiffanysigned tonneau-shaped watch on the driver’s wrist as he stood on the winner’s podium. This discovery would motivate his first high-end watch purchase – a Patek Philippe ref. 3970 perpetual calendar chronograph.
Lot 34
Visiting watch shops, practicing for hours at the shore, studying further at home with his surfboard, and with watches in hand,
and learning from his mistakes - falling off his board or buying the wrong watch – he persevered to correct them. His curious mind took him beyond his comfort zone - he was captivated by the thrill of the unknown. Surfing in new locales, discovering vintage watches, his skills developed rapidly. Missing a great wave would haunt him. Similar feelings of regret would haunt him after hesitating on the purchase of a great watch. Surfing with his friends and meeting fellow collectors, he found even greater joy sharing his passion with others. They understood “the madness” of waking up at 5:00 AM for the best surf conditions, or jumping on a plane in pursuit of the next watch. An active member of both the surfing and watch communities, social interactions motivated him further. His collection is the result of countless visits to international auctions, conversations with specialists, and his patience and perseverance. He appreciated the stories behind each watch – most especially those coming from original owners. For these “best quality” watches, armed with his knowledge and courage, he would not hesitate to “go the distance” to acquire a piece he loved. Like the thrill of riding a great wave, the elation of obtaining a great watch fueled his passion for decades. He was mentored early on by an accomplished Swiss watchmaker who taught him to appreciate vintage watches and to recognize their originality and quality. His understanding of watchmaking, and the ferocious strength of ocean waters, gave him a particular appreciation for water resistant watches from the postwar years – the early era of waterproof watches.
Lot 18
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Lot 21
Lot 22
Lot 23
Lot 24
Lot 25
Lot 27
Lot 28
Lot 29
Lot 30
Lot 31
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Accordingly, the collection of watches offered here were manufactured as early as the 1940s, which were also the formative years of surfing in popular American culture. Just as surfboards continue to evolve until the present day, so have wristwatch cases – whether it’s their sizes, materials, pusher and crown innovations, etc. The 18 watches of the “Ride the Wave” collection comprise a diverse range of brands, materials, and styles – and all are of exceptional quality. His taste, refined over decades, is impeccable, with an eye for quality and an appreciation for the smallest details such as the consistency of patina on a dial, the originality of the strap or bracelet and even buckles, or the presence of factory original beveled edges on a case. Even after over half a century, some even come with their original hang tags and boxes. Each is supremely collectible including coveted sports watches such as a Paul Newman Daytona, a tropicaldial, early reference 6263 with Mk 1 millerighe pushers, to an incredible, water-resistant platinum Patek Philippe ref. 2526 with enamel dial for dressier occasions. We trust you will enjoy discovering these wonderful watches as much as we did handling and cataloguing them for this sale. With many having been kept in his collection for decades, they each present a rare opportunity for the most discerning collector.
18.
A fine and attractive pink gold wristwatch
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1945
Reference No.
3130
Movement No.
56’031
Case No.
521’285
Model Name
Oyster Perpetual, Bubbleback
Material
14K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
32mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed
Estimate $3,000-6,000 • €2,600-5,100
Today, Rolex is most often associated with mid 20th-century tool watches, which have become icons in the world of horology, and are some of the most sought after timepieces by collectors. With model names like GMT-Master, Submariner and Cosmograph Daytona, the demand for these exceptional watches continues to grow, however it is important to remember Rolex was founded in 1905, and since its inception, produced an array of wristwatches with modern designs that were masculine and durable. The brand’s quest for technical excellence is seen throughout their evolution, and in the early 20th century two milestone innovations were introduced,
the “Oyster” case introduced in 1926 as a water and dust proof timepiece, and in 1931 their “Perpetual” self-winding movement. The combination of these two produced the “Oyster Perpetual”, which has been the backbone of their production ever since. Rolex patented the first automatic movement with a winding rotor that rotated 360 degrees upon a centrally located pivot. Fixed on an existing movement with the rotor spinning on top, the domed caseback allowed for extra space for the rotor, leading this watch to be nicknamed “Bubbleback”. These timepieces became a huge success throughout its production period, from the early 1930s to the 1950s. The present watch is a wonderful example of the reference 3130 “Bubbleback”, and preserved in exceptional, hardly-worn condition and fitted with its original Rolex Oyster crown. This “Bubbleback” is from the second half of the 1940s, and consequently, one of the last generation of the model’s production run. It is characteristic for this batch to see the serial number engraved by Pantograph, a technique newly introduced by Rolex after World War II. “Bubblebacks” have an important place in the history of Rolex and this rare, beautifully preserved, 14 karat pink gold reference 3130 has a presence and charisma that is sure to attract collectors. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
ROLEX
Ref. 3130 “Bubbleback”
19.
A sporty and appealing stainless steel wristwatch with original Certificate of Origin
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1970
Reference No.
3466
Movement No.
1’116’692
Case No.
2’664’370; retailer inventory number 138’319
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 27-460, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap, and buckle signed.
Estimate $12,000-24,000 Σ €10,300-20,600 Accessories Accompanied by original Certificate of Origin and Guarantee from Patek Philippe and original envelope with corresponding movement number printed on it. Additionally accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming manufacture of this watch in 1970 and its sale on February 20th, 1970.
First introduced to the market in 1962, reference 3466 remained in production for approximately ten years before it was discontinued in the early 1970s. Housed in a waterresistant, stainless steel case, the model was a sporty and technical alternative to its time-only siblings dressed in precious metals. Compared to gold in Patek Philippe’s midcentury production, stainless steel was a much rarer offering.
Dubbed by many as “la grande dame des automatiques Suisse,” the automatic caliber 27-460 is the successor to the first automatic movement produced by Patek Philippe, the caliber 12-600 AT, which powered Patek Philippe’s mostly precious metal, time-only watches from 1953 until 1960. When the caliber 27-460 replaced the 12-600 AT, it was upgraded with a sturdier ball bearing mount for the winding rotor, among other adjustments. It then remained in production until 1985, when it was replaced by the caliber 240 with micro-rotor. Most striking is the full 18k yellow gold rotor, beautifully and lavishly finished and quite large. To use such a costly mechanism inside a steel watch was rare for Patek Philippe, and adds to the importance of this 3466. This present reference 3466 features a charismatic soleil dial with properly raised and engraved enamel graphics. The faceted baton markers gleam as light hits them, as do the tiny silver pearls representing the minute markers. The watch is accompanied with its original Certificate of Origin and matching envelope. Most interestingly, one of the lugs bears a retailer inventory number engraving and a close comparison leads us to believe that it is by Joyeria Ricciardi, the famed Argentinian retailer. The numbering scheme is consistent with other Ricciardi-retailed examples, and the number is repeated on the outer envelope of the original certificate, with “ERMETICO ACERO” – waterproof steel in Spanish – written on it in pencil. With its timeless style, relatively large 35 mm case diameter, original certificate of origin, and its superb state of preservation, the present lot is a rare opportunity for connoisseurs of vintage steel Patek Philippe watches.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 3466 Calatrava “Acero Hermetico”
20.
An extremely well-preserved, rare, and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with luminous dial and center seconds
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1955
Reference No.
2508
Movement No.
704’999
Case No.
691’451
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27SC, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate $20,000-40,000 Σ €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming date of manufacture of the present watch in 1955, and its subsequent sale on April 26th, 1956.
Launched in 1951, the reference 2508 was Patek Philippe’s first Calatrava model to feature a waterproof case. In production from 1952 until 1960, the generous 35mm Taubert-sourced case featured the same shape and proportions as that of another iconic Patek Philippe - the waterproof chronograph reference 1463. Both models have a sporty appeal that lends a casual air and have now become beacons for mid-20th century timepiece design with their masculine shape and well-balanced proportions. The model was produced in yellow and rose gold, as well as in stainless steel. Collectors passionately vie for important time-only models like the reference 565, 570, the first automatic, the reference 2526 and like the present lot, the reference 2508. The present example has rarely been worn in its 66 year history and is consequently preserved in breathtaking condition. The dial, with extremely rare luminous hour markers and hands, has aged gracefully over the years, with the luminous material aging to a pleasing sandy brown hue. The raised, hard enamel signature is perfectly intact with no losses to the lettering and accent. The case remains sharp and crisp, with strong proportions and a crisp hallmark found on the underside of the lugs. The reference 2508 is a charismatic timepiece and an icon of classic horology. The present example is in exceptional overall condition and is a wonderful example from the golden age of horology certain to delight the connoisseur.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 2508 “Luminous Dial”
21.
A very attractive and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, tropical dial, guarantee, box, and hang tag
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1970
Reference No.
6263; inside caseback stamped 6262
Case No.
2’849’368
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted and tapered Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 7835, end links stamped 257
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 1.71
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $50,000-100,000 €42,900-85,800 Accessories Accompanied by original Rolex guarantee dated 1973, Rolex Oyster pamphlet, hangtags, inner and outer presentation boxes.
The Daytona references 6263 and 6265 were launched in 1969, succeeded the outgoing 6240, the first Oyster Cosmograph model. Thanks to the redesigned screw down buttons and crown, these models were now guaranteed water resistant for up to 50 meters. Additionally, the model introduced an updated movement, the caliber 727. The first batch, from which the present watch is a premium example, are fitted with Mark 1, “millerighe” pushers, easily recognizable due to their finer reeding and less prominent ridging. As an early example of the reference 6263, it fittingly bears the inside caseback engraving of the earlier reference 6262, a common practice for Rolex at the time. Visually arresting, the dial has turned the rich dark brown tone of espresso beans, free from signs of aging. It retains its original certificate dated May of 1973, hang tag with the serial number stamped on it, box, and other accessories. The much later sale date is further proof of the humble demand at the time for these Daytona models. Purchased at our very first Geneva Watch Auction held in 2015, it has been treasured as part of the “Ride the Wave” collection since. As one of the first ever water resistant to 50 meter Rolex Daytonas produced, it was a lynchpin in his collection.
ROLEX Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona “Tropical”
22.
An exceptionally well-preserved, rare, and beautiful yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter scale
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1964
Reference No.
6238
Case No.
1’038’625
Model Name
Pre-Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72B, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $70,000-140,000 €60,100-120,000
A milestone of Rolex’s chronograph production, the reference 6238 was produced in a variety of dial combinations, encased in stainless steel, 14K or 18K yellow gold. These were fitted with silver, grey, and black dials, with tachymeter and/or telemeter scales printed directly on the dials differentiating them from their successors, the reference 6239s. These particular Oyster
chronographs are known as the “Pre-Daytona” as they bear the familiar case design of the later Daytona references, with the homogeneous dial and subdial coloration and printed scales on the outer track of the dial, similar to the chronographs of the 1940s and 50s. The present reference 6238 is one of the finest Pre-Daytona specimens to appear publicly. Most especially to be admired is the exceptional state of preservation of the case, bearing crisp hallmarks punched to the underside of the lugs, and beautiful, even factory brushed finishing to the tops of the lugs and caseback. The lugs are wonderfully full, with crisp pin holes perfectly distanced from the edges, having most likely never suffered the indignity of a polishing wheel. Secondly, one’s eyes drift from the case to the stunning and resplendent sunray silvered dial, each hour indicated with faceted dagger indexes and encircled by a pristine blue tachymeter scale. Another fine waterproof chronograph from the inimitable “Ride the Wave” collection, this reference 6238 provides an important steppingstone to the later Daytona references; in spectacular condition and with a rare dial, it set the tone for the pieces that followed it chronologically, influencing the era of 1960s sports chronographs.
ROLEX
Ref. 6238 Pre-Daytona
23.
A handsome and well-preserved stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1977
Reference No.
5513
Case No.
5’081’792
Model Name
Submariner “Maxi”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1520, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex folded Oyster bracelet, reference 9315, endlinks numbered 380, max length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped “B” for 1977
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed
Estimate $6,000-12,000 €5,100-10,300
The Rolex Submariner reference 5513 bearing a matte dial was introduced around 1967, replacing predecessor models fitted with “glossy” gilt dials. Early examples of matte dials featured “meters first” depth ratings, with later examples depicted in several sequential generations, such as serif/non-serif, preComex, and the “Maxi” dial - like the present example. The present lot is dated from circa 1978 bearing a 5.0 million case number and displays a matte black dial with two lines of text. It is fitted with an early ‘Maxi 1’ dial that are found in early 5 million to early 6 million case serial numbers. This is the last batch of production of matte dial produced by Rolex with “SUBMARINER” written below the depth rating. The present Rolex Submariner reference 5513 “Maxi dial” is preserved in likely unpolished condition, with highly desirable, buttery yellow luminous hour markers that match uniformly with the hands. This Submariner “Maxi” dial from the “Ride the Wave” collection attests to the enduring quality of his vision – even in his “daily drivers”, he sought the tiny details that made certain watches stand apart from the rest.
ROLEX
Ref. 5513 Submariner
24.
A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with Gay Frères bracelet
Manufacturer
Universal
Year
1981
Reference No.
885.105
Case No.
3’755’301
Model Name
Universal Compax
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Valijoux 72, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Gay Frères bracelet, endlinks stamped UW, max overall length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel folding clasp, stamped 4.68
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $12,000-18,000 €10,300-15,400
The history of Universal Genève mirrors that of the history of the chronograph wristwatch. Founded in 1894 in Le Locle as Universal Watch, the brand initially began as a workshop assembling watch parts. However, by the early 20th-century the founders patented their first 24-hour timepiece. During World War I, they manufactured pocket watches and wristwatches for both sides of the war effort. In 1936, Universal
released their first Aero Compax model and it is from this beginning that collectors today appreciate their timepieces, with names such as Uni-Compax, Tri-Compax, and the famed Polerouter designed by Gerald Genta. Today, Universal’s chronograph wristwatches are highly sought after both for their modern mid-20th century aesthetic, fascinating dial variations, and superb quality. This spectacular Compax chronograph features a “Panda”style dial white background and black subsidiary dials, a design similar to the legendary Rolex Daytona. The watch has an immaculate case, and shows no signs of polishing with the scroll twisted lugs completing the case design. The acrylic crystal is the original featuring the inlaid “U” symbol for Universal Genève typically found on the crystals at this time. The chronograph is powered by the Valjoux 72 movement, which is marked as the Universal Genève calibre 85. The chronograph is further enhanced by the lovely, original Gay Frères stainless steel link bracelet. Part of the “Ride the Wave” collection, it is preserved in superb condition with strong case proportions, crisp engraved numbers on the caseback and a flawless dial - presenting a rare opportunity to obtain an exceptional example of an iconic vintage chronograph.
UNIVERSAL Ref. 885.105 Compax
25.
A stunning and extremely rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with oversized register, tropical dial, and rotating bezel
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1962
Case No.
615
Model Name
Type XX “Big Eye”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Valjoux 222, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Dial signed Breguet.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 €17,200-34,300
In 1775, Abraham-Louis Breguet, widely considered the greatest watchmaker to ever live, founded Breguet in Paris. In 1810, he produced the company’s first wristwatch. His fourth generation descendant would later found the French aircraft manufacturer, Breguet Aviation – makers of Europe’s best warplanes during WWI and WWII. The family tie would lead Breguet to supply the coveted Type XX military watches to the French military under their commission. Between 1954 and 1970, Breguet delivered the Type XX to the French Navy and Air Force. Breguet’s Type XX was delivered to the pilots of French naval forces beginning in the mid-1950s. Commissioned by the French Ministry of Defense, they sought a multipurpose chronograph wristwatch with flyback function, which allowed the pilot to quickly reset and restart the chronograph instantaneously to aide in navigation. The “type” designation
was not a specific model name for a particular brand, but rather it was the project code used by the French Ministry of Defense to define the specifications, which were presented to several watch brands including Breguet. These included a black dial with easily readable Arabic luminous numerals, a 38mm diameter case with screw back for water-resistance, a bidirectional rotating bezel and accuracy to within eight seconds a day. Breguet’s “Type XX” became the best known of these military chronograph watches. Previously offered in Phillips’ historic sale of vintage chronographs, START-STOP-RESET, the present Breguet Type XX is offered in spectacular condition. The caseback, with bold case number engraving, is razor sharp, with beautifully brushed finishing throughout the sides of the case as well. Serial number 615 bears the “Big Eye” dial configuration featuring an oversized 15-minute chronograph register. Furthermore, the dial has aged to a lovely shade of mocha and features large luminous Arabic hour markers and its original matching luminous hands. At half a century old, it is an extremely rare Type XX wristwatch variant due to its rotating metal bezel. The robust 38mm case with screw-down caseback houses the Valjoux caliber 222 featuring the ultra-desirable flyback function, and protected by the original dust cover. This complication provided improved accuracy for aviators by no longer requiring the wearer to use the stop function prior to resetting the chronograph. Coming from the “Ride the Wave” collection, it is fitting that a waterproof chronograph chosen by the French Navy for its pilots would appeal to this esteemed collector and enthusiast of all things aquatic.
BREGUET Type XX “Tropical”
26.
A spectacular, important, and beautiful platinum automatic wristwatch with enamel dial and bracelet
Patek Philippe’s first automatic wristwatch, the legendary reference 2526, was introduced to the market in 1953 and set the standard for a timeless and elegant case design. Reference 2526 was launched with the celebrated caliber 12-600 AT Patek Philippe’s first automatic movement, considered by many to be the most beautiful self-winding movement made by any manufacturer. Created in yellow, pink, and white gold, as well as platinum, the 35.5mm diameter Baumgartnerfabricated case was oversized for the era, but due to its thicker proportions, perfectly suits contemporary tastes when many enthusiasts consider a 40mm diameter watch the standard. The 12-600 AT is still considered to this day, to be one of the best automatic movements ever created. This is due to the fact that Patek Philippe, like all other manufacturers, was not able to produce an automatic movement with a 360 degree rotor until Rolex’s patent expired. Rather than spending time on less optimal solutions (bumper rotors, hinged-lugs winding, etc.), Patek Philippe focused its R&D on the cal. 12-600 for over two decades, waiting for the patent to expire. In short, the reference 2526 is an historic horological milestone as the first automatic wristwatch from Patek Philippe. It is an archetype of well-executed design throughout the second half of the 20th century and beyond, and it is rare as only approximately 2,500 examples in all metals were produced. But a reference 2526 in platinum, when accompanied by a period correct platinum Patek Philippe bracelet and fitted with the twice-baked enamel dial so sought after in these models? It’s significance skyrockets. Only 24 examples of platinum 2526s are known to scholars, and only 5 examples of the 2526 in platinum are known to have been born with enamel dials. Platinum 2526s were not available readily to Patek Philippe customers of the era – only obtainable through special order from Patek Philippe. While the three 18K gold variants of the 2526 were initially offered at US $500, a substantial sum in 1953, the platinum iteration with enamel dial was offered at US $2,500, with an option for a non-enamel dial with diamond hour markers priced at US $3,000. Interestingly, the majority of 2526s in platinum are found with diamond dials – likely because as they were already paying such a premium for platinum, they might as well add the extravagance and luxurious touch of a silvered diamond dial. Clearly, the original owner – who also ordered a platinum Patek Philippe bracelet stamped with the date code for 1953 – appreciated the sublime looks of the cream-colored enamel dial and opted for even further extravagance in the form of this superb, straight end-link mesh bracelet created by the bracelet geniuses at Gay Frères.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 2526 Platinum “Heavy Hitter”
26.
A spectacular, important, and beautiful platinum automatic wristwatch with enamel dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1954
Reference No.
2526
Movement No.
760’987
Case No.
684’561
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 12-600 AT, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum Patek Philippe/Gay Frères woven bracelet, max length 210mm; Leather Patek Philippe strap with platinum pin buckly
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe folding clasp stamped 1.53
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $100,000-200,000 €85,800-172,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives indicating manufacture of the present watch in 1954 and subsequent sale on August 10th, 1955.
One can only imagine the panache of this original purchaser, who ordered this specific configuration sight-unseen, and then his delight at uncovering his order when it was finally delivered to him in 1955. His only qualm? That it needed the further embellishment of a platinum bracelet, which with its date stamp of 1.53, was very likely ordered on the exact day the watch was delivered. The first series enamel dial radiates a warmth that is most striking against the icy coolness of its platinum surroundings, allowing the gold printing of the dial and applied white gold hour markers to further pop. The way that the baton hour markers created a slight indentation in the enamel of the dial is almost poetic, in the way the surface of a pond or lake bends gently to the ephemeral weight of a leaf or petal. Since its last appearance at auction twelve years ago, this watch has been cherished in the “Ride the Wave” collection, though he preferred it on its vintage brown suede Patek Philippe strap fitted with an original Patek Philippe platinum tang buckle - perhaps channeling the vision of the original owner, who wanted a watch he could wear for occasions both subtle and flamboyant. Preserved in overall outstanding condition, it is one of the finest examples of a platinum 2526 known, making it a trophy watch for the discerning collector.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 2526 Platinum “Heavy Hitter”
27.
A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer dial, “Big Crown”, and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1958
Reference No.
5510
Movement No.
50’558
Case No.
361’913
Model Name
Submariner, Big Crown
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1530, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, endlinks stamped 65, overall max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2.58
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $50,000-100,000 €42,900-85,800
The study of the iconic Rolex Submariner can be divided and sub-divided into several categories: glossy or matte dials, silver, gold, or white print, crown guards or no crown guards, small crown or big crown, red lettering, date or no date. There is a plethora of characteristics to examine and quantify. The earliest Submariners – the references 6200, 6204, and 6205 have significant architectural differences when compared even to the generation of Submariner that immediately followed. Yet they are the archetype of a line of watches whose popularity has only grown in the five decades since and therefore have developed a revered place in the hearts and minds of watch collectors and scholars.
Amongst the rarest of all Rolex Submariner models, the reference 5510 was introduced in the late 1950s and was manufactured for a very short period of time. Accordingly, research indicates less than 300 examples were manufactured. The present “Big Crown” Submariner combines the characteristics any vintage Rolex collector aspires to find. Some examples were chronometer certified, while others, like the present model displayed “Submariner” along with the depth rating, variants are known as “Two Liners”. The reference 5510 is recognizable and characterized by its black lacquer “Swiss’ dial”, lack of crown guards and 8 millimeter Brevet ‘big’ crown. A two-owner watch, it has remained in the “Ride the Wave” collection since it first appeared at auction in 2010 when it was consigned by the original owner. The present example is preserved in excellent condition, with the original factory “Rolex Oyster Case” engraving still visible on the caseback. The black lacquered dial is vibrant and especially glossy, with the gilt writing and outer minute calibration shining through in negative relief. The “200=660ft” depth rating is superimposed and printed on the black background. The luminous hour markers are perfectly intact and the hands have aged evenly and taken on a yellowish brown hue. The Submariner is an icon in the world of horology, and the present reference 5510 is a rare model highly sought after by collectors. The present example is sure to please any enthusiast of Rolex sports watches. Please note, if a period-correct bezel insert is desired by the winning bidder, Phillips would be delighted to assist in its sourcing at additional cost.
ROLEX
Ref. 5510 Submariner “Big Crown”
28.
A fine and attractive stainless steel chronograph with Gay Frères bracelet
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
Circa 1970
Reference No.
7753
Case No.
106’277
Model Name
Carrera, second execution
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 7730, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Gay Frères bracelet, endlinks stamped HEL, max overall length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel deployant Heuer clasp, stamped 2.69
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $6,000-12,000 €5,100-10,300
Launched in 1963, the Heuer Carrera chronograph was named after the Carrera Panamericana, an exhilarating and extremely dangerous road race that took place in Mexico during the 1950s. Along with the models Autavia and Monaco, the Carrera became a horological icon appreciated today for its rugged, sporty, and masculine appeal. The first model in the collection,
the reference 2447, and those that followed such as the present reference 7753 conformed to Jack Heuer’s concept for a clean chronograph that followed his admiration for modern design and architecture. The Carrera was offered in approximately 110 variations with manual, automatic, and quartz movements, with production ending in the 1980s. The reference 7753, also known as the Carrera 30 chronograph, was released in 1970 with significant changes compared to its predecessor - the reference 3647. The new model was powered by the caliber 7730 manual wind movement with a 30 minute chronograph counter, as opposed to the Valjoux 92 caliber found in the 3647 with 45 minute register. The present example has an “inverse Panda”-style dial with black background and white subsidiary dials, compared to the more standard black subsidiary dials on a white background. Another interesting feature is the tachymeter scale indicating the watch’s intended use as a tool watch, reflecting Jack Heuer’s participation in motor sports. This chronograph is a deceptively simple connoisseur’s watch, but a reminder that Heuer timepieces were important tool watches that long played a crucial role in the life of its wearer. This example is in exceptional, original condition, hardly worn, and is a wonderful stainless steel chronograph to add to any collection.
HEUER
Ref. 7753 Carrera
29.
A highly rare and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tidal indication and regatta countdown, retailed by Abercrombie & Fitch Co.
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
Circa 1955
Reference No.
2443
Case No.
950’239
Model Name
Seafarer
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, Valjoux 721, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement signed Abercrombie & Fitch Co.; movement stamped AXF
Estimate $15,000-25,000 €12,900-21,500
Capturing the sporting essence of the consignor, this exceedingly rare Abercrombie & Fitch chronograph made by Heuer is fittingly called the “Seafarer”, and it is thematically foundational to the “Ride the Wave” collection. Forget what you know about the current Abercrombie & Fitch brand. In the 1950s, Abercrombie served the needs of the modern sportsman: golf, swimming, fishing, hiking, tennis,
sailing, wakeboarding, and more – any accessory one would need to lead an active lifestyle could be found in the enticingly illustrated pages of their summer catalogues. The company reached out to Heuer to create watches for them beginning in the 1940s, and a young Jack Heuer apprenticed at Abercrombie & Fitch in their New York City department store. He even later assisted in the development of the Solunar and the Seafarer models, puzzling out the problem of modifying a movement to reflect the tides for the Solunar, and then later incorporating a chronograph upon the commercial failure of the Solunar. The present example of the Seafarer reference 2443 is what Heuer scholars have termed the “second execution”, with triangle hour markers outlined in gilt and filled with aquacolored luminous paint, and Arabic numerals 1, 5, 7, 11, and 12 only. This exceptional example of the second execution 2443 is in unspoiled condition, with sharp facets to the lugs and sides of the case, and the vivid colors of the dial are original and remarkable in their preservation. The teal-colored, luminous hour markers are perfectly preserved, and the etching of the case number between the lugs is as crisp as if it were engraved yesterday. A spectacular example of the reference, very few of these Seafarers have ever surfaced publicly, and even fewer in this exemplary state of preservation. This watch comes from the remarkable and discerning collection of a seafarer in both spirit and practice.
HEUER
Abercrombie & Fitch Co. Seafarer
30.
A fine stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with “meters first” dial, date, and bracelet, with guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1966
Reference No.
5513
Case No.
1’478’096, inside case back stamped IV.66
Model Name
Submariner “Maxi”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1520, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped 78360, end links stamped 558
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped VC
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $6,000-12,000 €5,100-10,300 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee stamped Fr. Martin, Stuttgart, and dated 30 September, 1968, green leather Rolex presentation box and anchor.
The Rolex Submariner is one of the models most strongly associated with the brand, recognized by even the least watchconscious individuals. Reference 5513 is the one that best epitomizes the Submariner line, as it can be considered a “final
result” after the experimentations of the early Submariner models. The Submariner line was launched in Basel in 1954 with reference 6204. This is the first of a number of references which remained in production for a short time - some for just one year, others for as long as four years - indicating how the company was continuously working to update and improve on the new, very successful model. Finally, a consensus (at least about the case design) was reached in 1959 with reference 5512, followed in 1962 by the present reference 5513, the non-chronometric brethren of the reference 5512. These two references remained in production for respectively 19 years (5512 was discontinued in 1978) and 27 years (5513 ended in 1989): the differences with the earlier iterations are enormous, indicating that finally Rolex achieved what they considered “perfection” for the model. An essential mid-20th century tool watch, this fine example is part of the earliest generation of reference 5513s fitted with a black matte dial. A transitional timepiece, the depth rating at 6 o’clock presents the meters rating first, which Rolex would later change to feet first for the vast majority of the references production. The watch is in very nice overall condition, and accompanied by its original guarantee and presentation box. The reference 5513 is a benchmark model, and the present, early timepiece is an impressive example. It is a worthy addition to a discerning collection featuring rare sports watches.
ROLEX
Ref. 5513 Submariner
31.
An extremely well-preserved and early stainless steel dual time wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1968
Reference No.
1675; further stamped 1675 and IV.68
Movement No.
296’116
Case No.
2’013’101
to the inside caseback
Model Name
GMT-Master “Pepsi”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex U.S.A. deployant clasp, stamped C&I and 1-70
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $12,000-18,000 €10,300-15,400 Accessories Accompanied by punched and numbered guarantee, product literature, hang tag, fitted presentation box, and outer box.
In production for more than 20 years, from 1959 to 1980, the Rolex GMT-Master reference 1675 was the highly successful and more robust replacement for the first GMT-Master model, the ref. 6542 introduced in 1954. First produced with “glossy” dials with gilt printing, Rolex switched to the use of matte dials as early as the 1.6 million serial number (circa 1967). While it has never been concretely known why the shift was made, matte dials were cheaper to manufacture, more robust, and less reflective. The present example bearing a 2.0 million serial number features the desirable Mark I dial depicted by the long “E” in Rolex and a “string-like” coronet unique to the series. Furthermore, when one views the dial under a loupe, the luminous hour markers display a “waffle-like” texture – a clear characteristic of Mark I dials. From the distinguished “Ride the Wave” collection, this Mark I GMT reference 1675 comes complete with its original punched and numbered guarantee papers, hang tag, and presentation box.
ROLEX Ref. 1675 GMT-Master “Unpolished”
32.
An elegant and unusual yellow gold wristwatch with roulette date wheel, red depth rating, and Rolex service papers
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1956
Reference No.
6605
Movement No.
N654310
Case No.
111’615
Model Name
Datejust “Red Depth”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1065, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $15,000-30,000 Σ €12,900-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by two Rolex Argentina service papers dated 1999.
Launched on the 40th anniversary of Rolex in 1945, the Datejust is an icon that is in production still to this day. The Datejust started a revolution then by being the first automatic watch with an instantaneous date aperture - a feature so influential that we take for granted today. Since then, the model has never left the pages of Rolex’s catalogues, with dozens of references created over the decades.
Datejust production can be divided into three broad categories defined by the automatic movement beating within: the original cal. A.295 (and its upgrade A.296) are the first used for the model, from 1945 to 1956. Then, with the advent of references 6605 and 6604, the new calibre generation is introduced. It lasts until 1977 and features cal. 1065, 1565 and 1575. As the movement was thinner, the case also became thinner, losing the slight bulge of the caseback. The present reference 6605 is amongst the rarest Datejust models. Made only for three years between 1956 and 1959 together with the sister reference 6604, featuring a smooth bezel. Beautifully faceted dagger indexes and a roulette date wheel are both attractive and collectible features, but the highlight of this reference 6605 is written in tiny red text on the dial: Datejust 50m = 165ft. This designation on a nonprofessional model like the Datejust is an indisputable rarity, and has only been seen on a handful of vintage pieces. Many of them bear serial numbers around 11X’XXX (see the three previous Rolex Explorer “Red Depth” reference 6610s sold at Phillips) like the present example. To find one on any nonprofessional Rolex model is rare; to find one on an 18K gold model is truly exceptional. Fitted on a period-correct, small crocodile grain Rolex strap with solid gold Rolex buckle, this water-resistant reference 6605 is an elegant jewel of the “Ride the Wave” collection that captivated him with its rarity, beauty, and overall state of preservation.
ROLEX Ref. 6605 Datejust “Red Depth”
33.
A stunning and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” exotic dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1971
Reference No.
6262; inside caseback stamped 6239
Case No.
2’548’238
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $100,000-200,000 €85,800-172,000
Superbly iconic and highly sought-after, Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman” dials are among one of the most well-designed chronograph dials of the 1960s. Rather than the tri-color dial often seen on references 6239 and 6241, as well as some early examples of references 6262 and 6264, this slightly later ref. 6262 example boasts an extremely rare Paul Newman dial with bi-color layout - the only red being the “Daytona” text above the hour counter. Together with reference 6264, fitted with a black acrylic bezel, the metal bezel reference 6262 was the last Rolex chronograph watch to be fitted with pump pushers. Reference 6240, 6263 and 6265 all feature water resistant screw down pushers. While aesthetically similar to its predecessor reference 6239, reference 6262 was fitted with the upgraded Valjoux movement caliber 727, replacing the previous caliber 722-1. One minor aesthetic difference can be found in the slight architectural redesign of the lugs on the 6262 versus the earlier 6239 – they are slightly more elongated. Presented in superb condition from the “Ride the Wave” collection, this premium ref. 6262 with its attractive bicolor Paul Newman dial has aged ever so slightly to a pleasing ivory color, with its original crème-colored lume plots remaining full and perfectly intact. The present lot is a spectacular example of the reference for the discerning collector.
ROLEX Ref. 6262 Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman
34.
An important, very rare, and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with outer tachymeter scale
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi”
Patek Philippe’s reference 1463 was launched in 1940, and remained in production for approximately 25 years. The timepiece, along with its companion reference 1563 splitseconds chronograph, was the brand’s first and only vintageera waterproof chronograph produced featuring a water resistant screw-back case and round pump pushers. Research indicates approximately 750 examples were produced with the majority made in yellow gold, a very limited number in stainless steel, and an exceptionally small number in pink gold. Nicknamed “Tasti Tondi” by Italian collectors for the round chronograph pushers, the reference 1463 was a sportier alternative to the less robust reference 130, and the desire for the model has never waned. The model was Patek Philippe’s first sports chronograph designed for a modern society with an increasing interest in outdoor activities, and even for industrial use in scientific and medical environments due to a second inner case which shielded the movement against magnetism. Today, this timepiece is one of the most sought after vintage Patek Philippe chronographs available, and is cherished for its classic modern design. Similar to other Patek Philippe models, the reference 1463 evolved over time. Manufactured by Taubert Frères for Patek Philippe, the cases originally featured shorter thin lugs extending out from the case, with a stepped bezel, while the second generation cases like the present watch, were distinguished by a larger winding crown, larger downturned lugs, and a more angular bezel giving them more presence on the wrist.
34.
An important, very rare, and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with outer tachymeter scale
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 1946
Reference No.
1463
Movement No.
867’302
Case No.
653’501
Model Name
Tasti Tondi
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed
Estimate $200,000-400,000 Σ €172,000-343,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming date of manufacture of the present watch in 1947 with applied gold hour markers and tachymeter scale, and its subsequent sale on March 22nd, 1949. Literature This reference 1463 in steel is featured in Patek Philippe Steel Watches by John Goldberger pp. 284-285
The present chronograph is an important, all-original example of these very rare and collectible watches and is prominently featured in John Goldberger’s “Patek Philippe Steel Watches” tome. Preserved in excellent, original condition, it has remained cherished in the “Ride the Wave” collection since acquired at auction in 2005, having been hardly worn since. Even the Patek Philippe-signed cowhide strap remains unchanged - still fitted with the same buckle it was photographed with in 2005. Featuring a long signature dial with exceptionally wellpreserved, raised, hard-enamel printing, it has taken on a remarkable greyish tone with no signs of any interventions. While being one of the world’s most collectable vintage wristwatches and consequently very valuable, the stainless steel reference 1463 can be comfortably worn daily thanks to its robust case design and very discreet looks.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi”
35.
Rolex — A sporty and attractive stainless steel dual time wristwatch with ceramic bezel, date, center seconds, and bracelet, international guarantee, hang tag, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2018
Reference No.
126710BLRO
Case No.
2839Q1F5
Model Name
GMT-Master II “Pepsi”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3285, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $8,000-12,000 €6,900-10,300 Accessories Includes one extra link. Accompanied by original hangtag, seal, retailer-stamped guarantee card dated October 1st, 2018, leather wallet, warranty booklet, instruction manual, inner and outer presentation box.
The GMT-Master is one of the most recognized and iconic timepieces available, with a history stretching over 60 years. It was an early Rolex tool watch designed in collaboration with Pan American Airlines so their pilots could keep track of both “home” and “local” times. Rolex introduced the first GMT-Master, reference 6542 with a fragile Bakelite bezel in 1955, which was quickly succeeded in 1959 with the second-generation GMT-Master model with metal bezel, the reference 1675. The reference has been upgraded and modified throughout the years, and in 2018 Rolex released the 126710BLRO with a ceramic blue and red bezel known as the “Pepsi”, and Jubilee bracelet. Rolex’s Cerachrom bezel is robust, scratchproof, and with colors that won’t fade over time. Under UV light, the bezel is revealed to actually be completely red, the blue half disappearing. Offered by the original owner and accompanied with its full, original kit, this “Pepsi” GMT on a Jubilee bracelet is a wonderful contemporary iteration of this legendary model, and one of the most in-demand modern Rolexes today. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
36.
Rolex — A highly coveted, attractive, and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black dial, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2018
Reference No.
116500LN
Case No.
Q74S5583
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $12,000-18,000 €10,300-15,400 Accessories Includes two extra links. Accompanied by original hangtag, seal, retailer-stamped guarantee card dated February 14th, 2018, leather wallet, warranty booklet, instruction manual, inner and outer presentation box.
When Rolex introduced the reference 116500 as the successor to the 116520 in 2016, collectors immediately seized upon the well-timed nod to the Daytona reference 6263 and 6265 “Big Red”. Similarly, the new reference 116500LN was offered with the choice of either a white or a black dial, with the metal bezel of the 116520 replaced by a scratch-resistant Cerachrom black bezel – a first for the model. Offered here alongside its white-dial mate, from the collection of the same original owner, the present reference 116500LN retains its full suite of accessories and bezel protector. It is offered in excellent overall condition, ready to enter the collection of another astute collector. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
37.
An extremely well-preserved and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1978
Reference No.
6263
Case No.
5’382’619
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped 78350/19, endlinks stamped 557/B, max overall length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 78350 and R11
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $50,000-100,000 €42,900-85,800 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex inner and outer presentation boxes.
One of the most coveted vintage timepieces of the current era is the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”, distinguished by its large red “Daytona” signature above the 6 o’clock register. Perfectly proportioned for daily wrist wear and with its dramatic splash of red text, the model’s simple, elegant yet casual design has captivated seasoned and beginner watch collectors alike.
The reference 6263, like the present watch, and reference 6265, its metal-bezel sibling, were both launched in 1969, replacing the first Oyster Cosmograph model, the reference 6240. The stainless steel model with screw down pushers was in production for almost 20 years – until 1988, when the model was discontinued and replaced by the first self-winding Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16520 that year. The purity of this configuration, especially when fitted with the white dial, permits not only outstanding legibility - after all, the Cosmograph was first and foremost a tool for racers - but also provides an impressive, aesthetic impact. The inverse black/ white chromatic scheme of the dial and sub-dials combines brilliantly with the black acrylic bezel that itself contrasts with the steel case and bracelet. The silvered dial is in superb condition, with luminous hour markers along the outer ring, and the flawless soleil-finished dial glistens brilliantly against its contrasting black subsidiary dials. The beauty of these “Big Red” reference 6263 Daytonas served as the inspiration behind Rolex’s extremely popular modern steel Daytona reference 116500LN, introduced in 2016 and still in production today. This sporty yet elegant watch from 1978 is offered in exceptional overall condition, and has been extremely well preserved in its original state over the course of its 40-some year lifespan. The case is extremely sharp, having most likely never been polished. The crispness, total originality, and stunning aesthetics of this example make it one of the most exciting examples of the reference one could hope to own.
ROLEX Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
38.
An extremely well-preserved and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with ‘floating’ logo and bracelet, with original punched guarantee, presentation box, and hang tags
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1989
Reference No.
16520
Case No.
R992’879
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona, “Floating Cosmograph”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped 78360, endlinks stamped 503, max overall length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 78360 and M5
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $80,000-160,000 €68,700-137,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee dated 28 December, 1989, punched and signed Hope Brother’s Watch Co., Taipei Taiwan, green leather Rolex presentation box, hang tags, product literature and outer packaging.
In celebration of the Daytona’s 25th anniversary, Rolex released at Basel in 1988 the first self-winding chronograph model in their history. The technically innovative reference 16520 was powered by an automatic Zenith El Primero caliber, which was substantially modified by Rolex. At the time of the launch, the reference became a cult classic and garnered an immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers. This milestone
timepiece has become a collectors’ favorite, with the early and rare “R” series chronographs like the present 16520 particularly sought after for their unique place in horology. First generation chronographs like the present chronograph featured several design changes which helped evolve the Daytona over the course of its long and prestigious history. As opposed to later white dial 16520s that feature a more matte appearance, these early examples feature a highly lacquered, glossy surface. The black graphics were printed on top of the dial, giving it a three-dimensional effect, and the label moniker set eccentrically apart from the first four lines of text. Another small detail on early models was the “inverted 6” on the lowest subsidiary register. The reference was the first Daytona to be fitted with a sapphire crystal, and with a larger case diameter measuring 40 millimeters, which was equipped with the rare 200 graduation bezel. Rolex’s Cosmograph Daytona is one of the most iconic and cherished wristwatches for collectors today, and its evolution is legendary. Over its 65-year plus lifespan, it has become revered for its classic design, durability, and strong masculine appeal. This reference 16520 is preserved in nearly new condition, featuring its sharp factory finishes preserved throughout. The chronograph features the original factory sticker on the caseback, and is accompanied by its original Rolex guarantee, having been retailed in Taipei Taiwan, dated 28 December 1989. It is interesting to note the guarantee is punched with the correct country code, 440, for Taiwan. The present lot is a rare opportunity to own an early, complete, and rarely seen variant of the iconic Daytona in wonderful overall condition.
ROLEX Ref. 16520 Cosmograph Daytona “Floating Cosmograph”
39.
A spectacular, very well-preserved, and unprecedented 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne Paul Newman exotic dial
Daytona chronographs with coveted “Paul Newman” dials are rare, but the reference 6241 is amongst the rarest. In production for only 3 short years from 1966 to 1969, scholars estimate that roughly 2000 pieces were produced in stainless steel, around 300 in 18k yellow gold and approximately 400 in 14k yellow gold. The present watch is part of the mega-rare 14k yellow gold models mostly destined for the American market. Many of them were manufactured in one batch, fitted with either black or champagne exotic or non-exotic dials. The following examples have all been sold by Phillips and bear serial numbers very close to each other: 2’084’222, sold Phillips Geneva May 2017 with champagne Paul Newman dial 2’084’231, the present lot 2’084’241, sold Phillips Geneva May 2017 with black Paul Newman dial signed Tiffany & Co. 2’084’285, sold Phillips Geneva November 2020 with black Paul Newman dial 2’084’332, sold Phillips Geneva May 2019 with champagne Paul Newman dial 2’084’363, sold Phillips Geneva May 2019 with black Paul Newman dial 2’084’863, sold Phillips Hong Kong June 2021 with black non-exotic dial This reference differed from other Daytona models with a new case design that introduced a small protrusion under the crown, which allowed easier winding of the Valjoux caliber 722. It also featured a new bezel composed of a metal support fitted with a black acrylic insert featuring a tachymeter scale printed in white. The “T SWISS T” designation at the lower edge of the dial by 6 o’clock indicates the use of tritium for the hands and luminous hour markers. It is also from this reference on that the word ‘Daytona’ would be officially printed on the dial.
ROLEX Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman “The Krug”
39.
A spectacular, very well-preserved, and unprecedented 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne Paul Newman exotic dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1968
Reference No.
6241
Case No.
2’084’231
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material
14K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Rolex gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $250,000-500,000 €215,000-429,000 Accessories Accompanied by original Rolex strap and provenance letter from original owner.
The warmth of the 14k yellow gold case perfectly matches the gorgeous cream-colored grené dial, framed and set apart by the black acrylic bezel – the true protagonist of the watch. Absolutely correct for its 2 million serial number, the Paul Newman dial configuration is preserved in superb condition, fully retaining all of its luminous hour markers and with hardly any noticeable flaws, even under close examination. The case has likely never been polished, retaining the original brushed finishing to the caseback, full lugs, and even pin holes. The two squirrel hallmarks used to demarcate 14K yellow gold on Swiss watch cases are perfectly intact. In excellent overall condition, this beauty has been hidden and unworn for quite some time as recounted by the original owner in his provenance letter. As the General Manager of AAR Corp in the 1960s, he was given this 14K yellow gold 6241 as a reward for excellent yearly performance. He wore it for a few years until tucking it away, having only recently discovered its present-day value. It arrived fitted with the original strap and buckle, as well as the original crystal. We are thrilled to present this unspoiled example of the 6241 champagne Paul Newman directly from the original owner. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
ROLEX Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman “The Krug”
40.
A fine and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with “four-line” black gloss dial and bracelet, with guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1965
Reference No.
5512, inside case back stamped 5513, iv.65
Movement No.
D56’933
Case No.
1’361’509
Model Name
Submariner, “4-Liner”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1650, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped 7206, endlinks stamped 80, max length 160mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by punched Rolex Guarantee, Suisses de Contrôl Officiel de la Marche des Chronométres dated 27 January, 1966, presentation box, product literature and outer packaging.
Rolex released the first Submariner reference 6204 in 1954, and over the last 68 years it has become one of the brands most enduring and cherished tool wristwatches ever produced. Highly
sought after by collectors, the Submariner is firmly entrenched in the pantheon of horology, and has evolved into a modern timepiece that is as wearable at the office, an evening event, and for its original use when diving, or beachcombing. Rolex transformed the model in 1959 with the reference 5512 with the addition of the now ubiquitous crown guards. While the earliest iterations featured squared crown guards, later generations like the present model displayed rounded crown guards. The present “4-liner” reference 5512 features its stunning and original “Swiss T<25” black glossy dial with gilt signature and silver gilt “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” (SCOC) designation at 6 o’clock. While both the reference 5512 and 5513 featured the same case and bracelet, the reference 5512 was fitted with a movement tested and certified for accuracy and precision by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, and it is this additional two lines added to the dial that sets the reference 5512 apart from its contemporary counterpart, the reference 5513. Offered in lovely condition with a vibrant, glossy dial with nicely aged numerals that have aged to warm orangish brown hue, the watch is a classic icon that has stood the test of time and cherished by collectors for its history in the evolution of the Submariner model. A rarely seen complete set that not only includes its original punched guarantee, it is further accompanied by the original Suisses de Contrôl Officiel de la Marche des Chronométres certificate, dated 27 January 1966 confirming its chronometer rating.
ROLEX
Ref. 5512 Submariner “Four-Liner Gilt”
41.
A highly important, very rare, and exceptional yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with Paul Newman ‘John Player Special’ dial and bracelet
Louis Moinet was a French horologist who as an advisor and collaborator with Abraham Louis Breguet, is recognised for his interest in precision timing, and best known today for the first chronograph watch he made in 1815. In modern times the chronograph wristwatch became part of society, fashion, and culture, and remained a tool watch used for endeavors from timing sporting events, to motorsports racing. Amongst some of the most iconic and prestigious chronograph wristwatches admired by collectors is the Rolex Daytona line of timekeepers. The first Daytona model was released by the brand in 1963 with the reference 6239, and featured a dramatic design change with the tachymeter scale removed from the dial, and placed on a metal bezel. This allowed for a more legible dial, and ease of tracking time. The line continued to evolve and change over the last five decades, however the original DNA remained the same. The Daytona model has a long history and symbiotic relationship between the Geneva watchmaker and the high octane world of motor sport.
ROLEX Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman “John Player Special”
41.
A highly important, very rare, and exceptional yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with Paul Newman ‘John Player Special’ dial and bracelet
ROLEX Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman “John Player Special”
Nicknamed “John Player Special”, the present watch is an exceedingly rare variant of the “Paul Newman” model. The origin of the name dates back to 1972, when John Player & Sons sponsored the Lotus Formula One team, which emblazoned the cigarette maker’s logo on its cars. Clad in black and gold livery to match John Player & Sons’ corporate colours, the Lotus automobile became an instant hit and icon. Today, the automobile is considered amongst the most attractive and elegant race cars ever designed.
41.
A highly important, very rare, and exceptional yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with Paul Newman ‘John Player Special’ dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
6241
Case No.
1’947’324
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona, “Paul Newman
Material
18K yellow gold
John Player Special” Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet, endlinks stamped 71, max overall length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
18k gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped 7205
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $600,000-1,200,000 €515,000-1,030,000
A requisite for tool watches was durability, accuracy and readability, thus in its early days the chronograph was encased predominantly in stainless steel, while a gold case with its hefty weight and soft material, went against the concept of a durable professional timepiece. Over time, the Daytona became more of a status symbol piece than an actual tool watch, but in the 1960s, 18 karat gold models were extremely rare. The reference 6241 was manufactured from approximately 1966 to 1969, and was amongst the rarest of all Daytona models ever produced. Research indicates fewer than 300 examples were cased in 18K yellow gold, and with the “John Player Special” “Paul Newman” model, far fewer are known. Never before offered publicly, the present John Player Special is in outstanding overall condition. The dial is astounding, and free of imperfections. It features round and complete luminous dots that have aged to a warm yellowish hue, matching the hands. The lovely state of preservation and rarity of this model renders it one of the most exciting and beautiful examples of the reference 6241 to be offered at auction.
ROLEX Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman “John Player Special”
42.
A very fine and rare stainless steel triple calendar chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1960
Reference No.
6236
Case No.
576’376
Model Name
Oyster Chronograph Antimagnetic, Jean-Claude Killy
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72C, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, max overall length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 7-58
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $120,000-240,000 €103,000-206,000
Literature The model is illustrated in I Cronografi Rolex - La Leggenda, Pucci Papaleo Editore, pp. 402 - 409
Few Rolex models have been nicknamed after celebrities, Paul Newman and Steve McQueen come immediately to mind but only one sportsman’s name has ever been associated with a model: Jean-Claude Killy. Launched in 1947, the reference 4767 Dato Compax was Rolex’s first triple calendar chronograph wristwatch fitted inside a water-resistant Oyster case. Between 1947 and 1962, a total of four different Oyster Dato Compax models were produced: references 4767, 5036, 6036 and 6236. Made in yellow and pink gold as well as stainless steel, the production run was very small for each variation. Over the years, Rolex modified both the dial and case design, with the final in the series, the reference 6236, featuring a more modern, clean dial style, as well as a three piece case with larger bezel. These models received the nickname “Jean-Claude Killy”, after the three-time Olympic champion. The present lot is in excellent condition with well-defined thick lugs and sharp angles, its stunning dial with wonderful details such as the sunken and embossed Rolex crown at 12 o’clock and faceted rectangular hour markers, which are complemented by the crisp blue of the outer date ring against the cream grené surface of the dial make the present reference 6236 enticing and seductive.
ROLEX Ref. 6236 Datocompax “Jean-Claude Killy”
43.
Tiffany & Co. — A very rare and fine yellow gold rectangular wristwatch, made by Patek Philippe for Tiffany & Co.
Manufacturer
Tiffany & Co.
Year
1936
Reference No.
425
Movement No.
830’635
Case No.
612’796
Model Name
Tegolino
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 9’’’90, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18k yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
41mm overall length
Signed
Case and movement signed by maker, dial by retailer
Estimate $3,000-6,000 • Σ €2,600-5,100 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming date of manufacture of the present watch in 1936 and its subsequent sale on August 5th, 1936.
The prestigious American-based retailer Tiffany & Co. was founded in 1837. Patek Philippe and Tiffany began an association in 1851, and today remains one of the oldest continuous partnerships in the world of horology. It was some ten years later that the firm began selling watches under its own name, continuing until the present day. In order to be associated with the high quality Tiffany & Co. brand, oftentimes watch companies made timepieces on behalf of Tiffany to be sold in their stores. These commissioned watches today are highly sought after, especially when found in excellent condition. Patek Philippe’s rectangular-shaped reference 425 wristwatch was launched in 1934 and remained in production for over 37 years - a popular design that became a guide for the brand’s subsequent rectangular models. The present reference 425 is only the 10th known example to be offered at auction with “Tiffany & Co.” signature, however it is the only known example to solely feature the famed retailer’s signature on the dial without the brand’s signature. All original, the charismatic silvered dial with hard enamel printing has developed a wonderful patina that is certain to delight. The faceted case is also preserved an excellent overall condition. It is a superb example of a vintage Tiffany-signed Patek Philippe wristwatch with a classic 20th-century design. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
44.
Cartier — A rare and very fine 18K gold rectangular curved wristwatch with European Watch & Clock movement, accompanied with Cartier appraisal and service papers
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1941
Movement No.
100’269
Case No.
269’186, 4
Model Name
Grand Tank Cintrée
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
46mm Length
Signed
Dial signed Cartier, Paris, movement and case signed European Watch & Clock, Co. Inc.
Estimate $10,000-20,000 €8,600-17,200 Accessories Accompanied by letter from the son of the original owner dated March 30, 2021, Cartier insurance valuation dated June 2, 1989, and Cartier service receipts dated June 2, 1989 and October 17, 1991 for completed servicing. Further accompanied by Cartier service estimate dated May 8th, 2009.
Designed near the end of World War I, the inspiration for the Tank’s ground-breaking design came from the top view of the very first Renault military tank vehicle deployed that same year. In 1921, Cartier launched the Grand Tank Cintrée with an aesthetically pleasing long, slender, and gracefully arching case. At the time, the model was the largest and boldest adaptation with a modern, fresh design on the rectangular shape and case dimensions of the Cartier Tank wristwatch. Today, the Tank Cintrée is incredibly popular, having inspired modern successors in the “Collection Privée, Cartier Paris” series.
Fresh-to-the-market and consigned by the original owner’s family, the present Grand Tank Cintrée made in 1941 measures a dramatic 46mm long by 23mm wide, with the Cintrée’s highly curved case designed to hug the curves of the wrist. The expansive dial and case combine straight lines, sensual curves, and crisp angles, resulting in a “modern” wristwatch design that was far ahead of its time. The elongated dial is timeless in its design, with Empire-style Roman numerals and Chemin-de-Fer central chapter ring. Housing one of the era’s most prestigious and well-finished movements, the caliber 9’’’ movement is signed European Watch and Clock Co., and was made exclusively for Cartier by LeCoultre, and meticulously hand-finished by Edmond Jaeger. Known as the “Jeweler of Kings, and the King of Jewelers” Cartier has a long and storied history, and their commitment to breathtaking design and innovation is beautifully displayed in the Grand Tank Cintrée. The present example, accompanied by valuation and service documents from Cartier dating back to 1989, is in lovely original condition, and has remained within the same family for over half a century. 2021 is the 100th anniversary of the Grand Tank Cintrée, and this is a very rare opportunity to own an original version of one of the most beautiful and iconic timepieces of the 20th century. PROPERTY OF THE FAMILY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
45.
A very fine and attractive twenty dollar coin watch with Breguet numerals
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 1950
Reference No.
802
Movement No.
866’647
Case No.
2’700’445
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 10’’’, 18 jewels
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed.
Estimate $10,000-15,000 €8,600-12,900
While coin watches are not as researched today compared to milestone Patek Philippe timepieces like the brand’s historic line of perpetual calendar chronograph watches, they provide a fascinating insight in to the history of horology. These ultra slim timepieces were constructed from legal tender, requiring two coins to be split to form their outer case, and a watch housed inside with a separate, hinged case. It is believed Cartier began to produce these uniquely styled timepieces
in 1929, however there is archival evidence suggesting the earliest known examples date to the late 19th century. Patek Philippe is amongst many brands who created these lovely creations, and it is believed their production ran from the 1920s until the 1980s. Patek Philippe is known for their rare and unusual timepieces, and the present coin watch is an attractive example of their continued ingenuity. They produced a number of variants using different coins and monetary values over seven decades, with a range of reference numbers. Research indicates only approximately 200 of these fine watches were ever produced, including the reference numbers 800 through 809, with monetary values of $5USD (ref. 800), $10USD (ref 801), $20USD (ref 802 & 803) like the present reference 802, 100CHF (ref. 804), 50 Pesos (ref. 805), along with others. Additionally, the brand created examples with skeletonized movements. The present example is in excellent overall condition with a nicely aged dial with Breguet numerals. Both a rare collectible and an interesting novelty timepiece, these Patek Philippe coin watches have become highly desirable in the market today. This is a rare opportunity to own one of these fine and hardly seen pieces.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 802 “Double Eagle Twenty Dollar Coin”
46.
An extremely rare and very attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with sector dial and tachymeter scale
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1938
Reference No.
533
Movement No.
862’084
Case No.
617’894
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate $40,000-80,000 €34,300-68,700 Accessories Accompanied by a photocopy of Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1938 with silvered dial, enamel and gold hour markers, and tachymeter scale, and subsequent sale on October 17th, 1938.
First released in 1937, Patek Philippe’s reference 533 with its Calatrava case, flat bezel and elongated lugs is a chronograph instantly recognizable for its masculine contemporary appeal. In production for almost 20 years, research indicates only approximately 150 examples are known today making it one of the rarest chronograph models by the brand. Elevating the importance of the present watch, it is believed only 12 examples
of the ref. 533 were fitted with a sector, or aviator’s, dial with the present watch being one of only six known to the market. The sector dial has been in use by various Swiss manufacturers for approximately the last 100 years. The first known examples were found on pocket watches at the turn of the century, however as early as 1910 they began to appear on wristwatches, in particular during the First World War used by aviators. The design is a wonderful mix of the Art Deco and Bauhaus schools with two concentric circles, one for hours, and the other for minutes with radial lines creating the sectors. Often the dials were enhanced by various scales like a tachymeter or telemeter. These provided a functionality for aviators during the war, and their tool-like capability would later be of use in manufacturing and the early and growing motor sport field. The sector dial was popular during the 1930s, 40s and 50s, but gradually fell out of favour, however are now popular once again, as exemplified by Patek Philippe’s release of the reference 5296 with sector dial in 2005. The present example from 1938 is extremely well-preserved and offered for the first time at auction. The correct long signature dial, with applied gold ‘12’ and ‘6’ hour markers, is stunning, with all of its original raised hard enamel printing remaining perfectly crisp. Even the comma between ‘Patek’ and ‘Philippe’, and the accent mark in ‘Genève’ remain intact. The case is equally well-preserved, with its gold hallmarks remaining crisp. The very contemporary and masculine look of this watch along with its freshness to the market makes this watch a treasure for any collector.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 533 “Sector Dial”
47.
A large, extremely fine, and historically important yellow gold open face world-time pocket watch
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1947
Reference No.
4414
Movement No.
412’739
Case No.
306’393
Model Name
World Time
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 17’’’ 15/12, 18 jewels
Dimensions
48mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate $35,000-70,000 €30,000-60,100
The early 20th century saw a new horizon with a technical revolution that forever changed society. Following the Wright brothers first flight in 1903, aviation evolved and by the early 1930s global travel, while expensive, was not uncommon. By 1927 Pan American Airways was flying routes in Central and South America, and new innovations lead to the ultimate development of the jet engine, which further expanded the globe – most especially to the wealthy. With the golden age of travel, new technical advancements occurred in the world of horology, in particular, the introduction of the world time watch. The Geneva-based watchmaker, Louis Cottier (1894-1966) invented the world time mechanism that would be used by Switzerland’s leading watch manufacturers, including Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Vacheron Constantin. An ingenious mechanism, it was designed to be simple to operate - featuring a local time, with the hour and minute hands at center, linked to a rotating 24-hour ring, and bordered by a fixed outer dial
ring with the names of different cities inscribed on it. The city of choice (local time zone) was placed at the 12 o’clock position with the hours/minutes hand set at local time. The watch would then display the correct time in both hours and minutes, night and day, for every time zone in the world simultaneously, all the while allowing easy and accurate reading of local time, and all on a single dial. Today, these watches and their ingenious movement are highly sought after by collectors both for their technical craftsmanship, and as a window in to our past. The rise and fall of global and local powers can be followed by studying the cities whose time zones are displayed on the dial, many of which differ from one decade to the next. The present, fresh-to-market Vacheron Constantin World Time from 1947 is a superb, oversized example of one of these extremely rare timepieces. Measuring in impressive 48mm in diameter, it is presented in outstanding overall condition with an engraved case back illustrating its superb historical background. Certainly a fitting gift or purchase by a statesman, the engraving reads “Lic. Miguel Aleman”. Miguel Alemán Valdés (1900-1983) served as President of Mexico from 19461952, and his post-presidential years saw him as director of Mexico’s tourism agency. The delightful, superbly preserved dial features applied gold star and Arabic hour markers, with the cities found on the outer dial ring all in raised, hard enamel printing with no losses whatsoever. A wonderful time capsule from the mid-20th century, the present lot will please both savvy collectors and historians for its technical genius, and insight in to the golden age of travel.
Image was provided by Vacheron Constantin Heritage Dept.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Ref. 4414 World Time
48.
An exceptionally rare, oversized, and sublime pink gold chronograph wristwatch with Extract from the Archives, one of only two known
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Movement manufactured 1943,
wonderful publication, many details highlighting the rarity of reference 5520 have come to light.
cased 1953 Reference No.
5520
Movement No.
45’588
Case No.
4334
Model Name
“One of Nine”
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’”, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $70,000-140,000 €60,700-120,000 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Register confirming production of the present watch in 1943 with steel case and then re-cased in 18K pink gold by Audemars Piguet in 1954.
“Rare” is a word that can hardly begin to describe vintage Audemars Piguet chronographs. In fact, little more than three hundred examples were produced overall between 1930 and 1962, after which no more chronograph wristwatches would be made until the modern era. Such a small production combined with the little information publicly available resulted in a very obscure field, until the recent publication by Audemars Piguet “Audemars Piguet 20th Century Complicated Wristwatches”, which combines all available archive information on complicated timepieces made by the company during the past century. Thanks to this
The model is exemplified by archival picture 1068, and was produced in nine documented examples, only two of which in pink gold, the rest in yellow gold. Intriguingly, the archive picture shows the model as featuring olive-shape pushers, but all known examples feature rectangular pushers - a fact Audemars Piguet ascribes to the more fashionable and modern aesthetics of rectangular pushers. According to the book, four of these pieces are re-cased versions of older watches from the 1940s. Looking at the Certificate of Origin issued by Audemars Piguet, the present piece appears to be one such example: it was in fact born in 1943 with a stainless steel case, apparently never sold, eventually recased in the present configuration in 1953 and sold in July of the same year. Such fascinating history reflects the newfound wealth appearing in Europe after WWII, which prompted increased demand for precious metal timepieces. One of the rarest, serially produced chronograph wristwatch models of the past centuries, and sporting extremely modern aesthetics thanks to its oversized (for the time) case dimensions, the piece is furthermore offered in virtually “as-new” condition thanks to an incredible and painstaking restoration effort by Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus made recently. In fact, the original service invoice detailing the intervention and the high cost is supplied with the timepiece. Given the increasing collector interest for exceptional, vintage wristwatches and the intrinsic scarcity of Audemars Piguet chronographs, the present lot presents an extremely rare opportunity for the savvy collector to obtain such a large, important, and sublime vintage chronograph.
AUDEMARS PIGUET Ref. 5520 Chronograph “One of Nine”
49.
A spectacular, important, and probably unique yellow gold, two train, trip minute repeating openface straight line perpetual calendar watch with moon phase, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 699/3J Straight-Line Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater “Tiffany & Co.”
Patek Philippe has long been associated with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking’s most prestigious complications. This family-owned brand has earned a reputation for excellence around the world with complicated vintage watches holding the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. Along with other Swiss manufacturers, Patek Philippe’s early history begins with the production of pocket watches, which during the 19th and early 20th centuries were fashionable. Their production included time only watches, minute repeaters, watches with petite and grand sonnerie function, along with chronographs and perpetual calendars. One of their rarest mechanical innovations was the two train trip minute repeater. A two train movement allows for tandem winding through the crown to power both the going train and the repeating mechanism. It is believed that due to their high cost and difficulty to manufacture, they were produced in very few examples between 1899 and 1912 with many sent to the American market.
49.
A spectacular, important, and probably unique yellow gold, two train, trip minute repeating openface straight line perpetual calendar watch with moon phase, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1907, encased in 1957
Reference No.
699/3
Movement No.
137’976, stamped HOX
Case No.
691’721
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, two train cal. 18’’’, 33 jewels
Dimensions
50mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed by maker, dial signed by retailer
Estimate $200,000-300,000 €172,000-257,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1907 with enameled exterior minute track and in-line calendar display, and its subsequent sale on July 19th, 1957.
The present reference 699/3 is an utterly superb example of a two-train trip repeater, made all the more extraordinary as it is combined with a perpetual calendar presenting the day, date, and month in an “in-line” display. Produced in the mid-20th century, the in-line design was far ahead of its time, serving
as the inspiration to Patek Philippe’s latest perpetual calendar wristwatch, the reference 5236P introduced this year. This watch has an unusual production history, which is similar to other examples from the series with the movement manufactured in 1907, but not encased until 1957. Similar to other reference 699 models, the watch was sent to the United States, a detail confirmed by the HOX export mark found on the movement, and the prestigious “Tiffany & Co.” retailer signature on the dial. The contemporary look of the watch is maintained through the trip mechanism found in the crown. Unlike traditional repeating watches with the repeat function activated through a slide in the band, the reference 699/3 uses the crown. When the button in the crown is pressed, the minute repeater is activated. By eliminating the slide, this rare mechanical system enabled a clean, modern design. Research indicates there are only two known reference 699 models with two train movements. The present example is the only ref. 699/3 known, made all the more extraordinary with the coveted ‘Tiffany and Co.’ signature on its dial, making it a possibly unique timepiece. Having remained part of a prestigious collection for a decade and preserved in outstanding overall condition, this Patek Philippe is a watch connoiseurs dream. It is an ultimate representation of the best of 20th-century horology.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 699/3J Straight-Line Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater “Tiffany & Co.”
50.
An exceptional, important, and highly attractive yellow gold co-axial single button chronograph wristwatch with sector dial and tachymeter scale
In production for almost 30 years, Patek Philippe’s reference 130 is one the most iconic and recognizable of the brand’s vintage timepieces – an enduring combination of the celebrated “Calatrava” case design with the sporty elegance of a chronograph. Made in stainless steel, yellow and pink gold with a multitude of dial combinations, and as traditional chronographs and single-button chronographs, its simple yet elegant design symbolizes the firm’s balance between classicism and high watchmaking. The present example is an early and rare combination featuring a single-button chronograph with a sector dial. Originally housed in tonneau-shaped cases made in the 1920s, these movements, produced by the great Victorin Piguet of the Vallée de Joux, Patek Philippe would later offer them in roundshaped cases due to society’s changing tastes. The single-button chronograph mechanism remains among the most complex and sophisticated developments of time measurement. Whereas the standard chronograph is activated and reset through two buttons in the band, the single-button chronograph is controlled through either a button in the band, or like the present watch, the crown.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 130 “Single Button Sector Dial”
50.
An exceptional, important, and highly attractive yellow gold co-axial single button chronograph wristwatch with sector dial and tachymeter scale
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1930
Reference No.
130
Movement No.
198’339
Case No.
611’983
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate $150,000-300,000 €129,000-257,000 Accessories Accompanied by photocopy Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1930 with silvered dial, enameled hour markers, and tachymeter scale, and its subsequent sale on October 18th, 1935.
According to research, Patek Philippe produced single-button chronograph wristwatches between 1924 and the late 1930s in only approximately thirty examples. The reference 130 was Patek Philippe’s first chronograph model given a reference number with the gold cases made by Vichet, one of Geneva’s best case makers at the time.
Absolutely timeless, it is perfectly contemporary and relevant for today as it was 80 years ago when it was first sold. Its elegant round case, elongated lugs, and prominent bezel give it a distinguished, streamlined look with no extra pushers disrupting the perfect balance of the case. The gorgeous sector dial is an interesting study in design, and is considered one of the most desirable dial types for collectors. It is interesting to note how sector dials were in fashion for a remarkably short time. They are usually found on watches made during the 1930s. It appears that Patek Philippe created a number of varying sector-type designs, differing from each other in the number of sectors and type of numerals employed. The present, beautifully preserved dial, with its extraordinary raised, hard, champlevé enamel printing, has two distinct font styles - with the right side 30-minute register, and outer 60 minute scale in a vintage font, while the left-hand constant seconds, tachymeter and large hour markers are in a modern Art Deco font. The “Base 1000” and rate indications “120” down to “80” are in a bold print. Patek Philippe chronograph watches with sector dials remain as unobtainable as they are attractive: only a few dozen such watches have ever appeared on the auction market. Since first sold publicly in 2012 when consigned by the family of the original owner, the present lot has been lovingly cared for by its second owner, a cherished piece in one of the world’s most prominent private collections.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 130 “Single Button Sector Dial”
51.
A cutting-edge and brand new pair of limited edition stainless steel wristwatches with honeycomb dials, with certificate and box
Manufacturer
Ming X Massena LAB
Year
2021
Reference No.
17.09
Case No.
“Honey”: 003’197 “Black”: 003’113
Model Name
“Black” and “Honey”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 330.M1, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $3,000-6,000 • €2,600-5,100 Accessories Both: Accompanied by warranty certificate extending warranty until 31 July 2023, leather travel wallet, cloth sleeve, and outer packaging.
The present MING X Massena LAB 17.09 is a potent mix of Ming Thein’s design acumen and William Massena’s deep knowledge and extensive expertise in vintage watches. MING takes the name of one of its founders and core drivers: Ming Thein, a physicist by training, and a world-renowned photographer and long time watch collector. Massena LAB is a creative laboratory created by William Massena, an industry veteran and a long-time collector
who launched his brand in 2018 as a creative playground for creating watches under his name or in collaboration with independent watchmakers. The present 17.09 is part of the final pieces made in Ming’s 17 series. Originally launched in 2017 as the brand’s foundation watch, this collection set the design language for future models with their short flared lugs and stylized numerals printed on the crystal. In the present model, the numerals are laser-etched on the reverse side of the sapphire crystal and filled with SuperLumiNova giving the dial incredible visual depth. Massena designed a superb textured dial for this final edition. His inspiration came from early Rolex honeycomb dials. However, where these dials loosely resembled a honeycomb, the dials of the 17.09 MING X Massena LAB are true representations, featuring a three-dimensional hexagonal pattern. The movement used within is the Schwarz-Etienne 300.M1, which is a modified version of the Sellita SW330-2 and features an hour hand that can be independently set, a useful function for frequent travelers. Launched in 2021, the 17.09 MING and Massena LAB feature a stainless steel case with a black or a honey colored dial and was limited to 200 pieces in total (150 in black and 50 in honey). We are pleased to be able to offer both together, in completely new condition and with all of their original accessories. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
MING X MASSENA LAB
Ref. 17.09 “Black & Honey”
52.
An extremely early and well-preserved platinum wristwatch with date, power reserve indication, small seconds, certificate, and presentation box, bearing serial number 002
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2007
Case No.
No. 002-AR
Model Name
Octa Automatique Reserve
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1300.3, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 Σ €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by Montres Journe warranty dated 2 January 2007, polishing cloth, instruction manual, additional strap, inner fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
Following the exceptional sale of the Chronomètre Souverain No. 001 offered at the Geneva Watch Auction XIII, Phillips New York was delighted to unearth this spectacular example of the Octa Automatique No. 002 in platinum, in beautiful and unpolished condition, complete with original warranty and presentation box.
The Octa collection was first launched in 2001, making it one of the brand’s very first serially produced models. However, after enjoying a much-appreciated response from enthusiasts and collectors, Francois Paul Journe decided to enhance the functionality of the Octa by introducing the improved caliber 1300.3 which requires less movement from the wearer to keep the watch wound. This came after Journe observed a friend’s Octa not being wound because of his sedentary lifestyle. Featured in the case is an immediately noticeable 22K gold rotor generating momentum to power the caliber, but with a unidirectional ball-bearing system allowing maximum harnessing of the movement of the wearer. The in-house movement is with no doubt the most competitive advantage that the manufacture holds. The precise engineering and delicate craftsmanship required to execute to the high standard of F.P. Journe is most definitely admired by even the most discerneing individuals in the industry, but also to be admired is his commitment to listening and incorporating the feedback of his clients. The new Octa Automatique Rèserve had central hour and minute hands as well, instead of the offset hour and minute display of the previous Octa Reserve de Marche. With a warranty dated from the second day of January 2007, the first year of the release of the Octa Automatique Reserve, this exemplary piece of Journe history marked a new chapter in the evolution of the brand. A more refined, efficient, and cohesive brand that still retained the early design cues of the previous iterations. This is a truly rare opportunity to seize an important part of the crystallization of F.P. Journe as a modern day independent juggernaut.
F.P. JOURNE
Octa Automatique “No. 002”
53.
A very fine and unusual palladium perpetual calendar wristwatch with power reserve, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
H. Moser & Cie
Year
Circa 2012
Reference No.
341.501
Movement No.
341.503
Case No.
No. 200, 105’850
Model Name
Moser Perpetual 1
Material
Palladium
Calibre
Manual, cal. HMC 341.503, 28 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold H. Moser & Cie deployant clasp
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $15,000-30,000 €12,900-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by H. Moser & Cie international guarantee dated 16 February, 2012, wooden fitted presentation box, setting pin, product literature, polish cloth and outer packaging.
H. Moser & Cie was founded by Henrich Moser (1805-1874) who brought luxury items to Russia’s aristocratic elite, opening his first boutique in St. Petersburg in 1828. The Schaffhausenbased manufacturer produced a range of timepieces from time only watches to grand complications, making their own in-house movements since 1829. Following Moser’s death, the company was sold due to lack of family involvement, and was expropriated in 1918 during the October Revolution. The firm was revived in 1953 as a wristwatch manufacturer, however had financial trouble during the quartz crisis of the 1970s, and
closed in 1979. In 2002, Moser’s great grandson Roger Nicholas Balsinger and Dr. Jürgen Lange formed Moser Schaffhausen, which relaunched H. Moser & Cie in 2005. Today, the brand is owned by the Meylan family as an exclusive brand known for their carefully crafted, precision in-house movements with unique features, and closely follows their motto “to manufacture in-house, and to make ingenious products”. They seek an entrepreneurial spirit that looks to the future, creating timepieces with a 21st appeal. The Perpetual 1 is an award winning timepiece receiving the prestigious Golden Unruh (Golden Balance) award in 2010 for technical innovation. Presented by Uhrenmagazin, one of Germany’s top horology magazines, readers voted for the Perpetual 1 for its unique perpetual calendar movement, and contemporary design. Unlike any other perpetual calendar movement, the details are subtle and beautifully integrated in to the mechanism. The small arrow at the center post intrigues collectors, and rather than display months of the year via the typical subsidiary dial or aperture, H. Moser & Cie uses the 12 hour markers with the arrow pointing to the correct month. The leap year indication is seen on the movement through the sapphire crystal caseback. The date window is visible at 3 o’clock alongside the crown that features a patented double pull setting mechanism allowing the wearer to set the date forwards or backwards. All calendar indications change instantaneously at midnight. Presented in excellent overall condition, and complete with guarantee and presentation box, H. Moser & Cie’s Perpetual 1 wristwatch is a unique and wonderful addition to any collection. This exclusive brand produces few timepieces a year with each offering a futuristic take on traditional horology.
H. MOSER & CIE Perpetual 1
54.
A fantastically well-preserved, extremely early, and historically important platinum automatic wristwatch with pink gold dial, power reserve, and moonphase, accompanied by warranty card and presentation box, bearing serial number 001
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2003
Case No.
001-03L
Model Name
Octa Lune “Number One”
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1300, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum and 18K white gold F.P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $60,000-120,000 Σ €51,500-103,000 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe warranty card, instruction manual, polishing cloth, inner and outer presentation box.
Highly sought after for their signature aesthetic and distinctiveness, Journe’s earliest timepieces produced from 1999 to 2004 would use rhodium-plated brass movements. Before switching to full rose gold movements in 2004, it’s believed only approximately 2000 Journe timepieces were made with brass movements across all models. Octa models were initially offered in either platinum or 18 karat rose gold with a superbly-proportioned, 38 mm case diameter. Inside ticks Journe’s innovative, in-house caliber 1300 featuring an offset 22K winding rotor, and a high-quality, free sprung escapement oscillating at a classic 21,600 beats per hour. A precision chronometer as indicated on the movement’s engraved bridge, it was the first self-winding movement to provide 120 hours of power reserve.
The Octa Lune was launched in 2003 and won the “Best Men’s Watch” award, in the same year, at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) - the most prestigious award ceremony in the watch industry. The moonphase on the left-hand side of the dial, offers a balance to the offset subdial displaying the hour and minute. If you look carefully, the actual moon aperture is poetically crafted in the shape of a crescent moon itself, rotated 90 degrees horizontally. Phillips is honored and proud to offer the present example with serial number 001, discovered during Phillips’ multi-city world tour exhibition of the F.P.Journe Souscription set of five watches with serial number 001 offered in Phillips’ The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV sale in November 2021. Bearing serial number 001-03L, it is most likely the very first Octa Lune produced by F.P.Journe. During the very last hour of the final day of the exhibition at the F.P.Journe Boutique Los Angeles, an eagle-eyed Boutique staff member spotted the present watch on the wrist of a collector, as he too was wearing the identical model with pink gold dial. Realizing the rarity as only 28 examples in this configuration were produced, the discreet owner casually remarked to the staff member that his has a special serial number, 001, matching the serial numbers of the five Souscription watches on display. Having the sixth original F.P. Journe model with the prestigious number 001 serial number appear, everyone present at the exhibition was elated. After years of ownership and seldom wear, the owner decided it was the right time to let another collector enjoy this historically important timepiece.
F.P. JOURNE
Octa Lune “No. 001”
55.
A beautiful and elegant white gold dual time chronometer wristwatch with certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Laurent Ferrier
Year
Circa 2014
Movement No.
No. 041
Model Name
Galet Traveller
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. LF230.01, 48 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Laurent Ferrier pin buckle
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by original receipt dated October 13th, 2014, original certificate, chronometer certificate, instruction manual, loupe, polishing cloth, fitted leather presentation box, and outer packaging.
Laurent Ferrier spent close to 37 years in product development at Patek Philippe, taking only a short yet exciting break to pursue his passion for automobile racing, a stint punctuated by a podium finish at the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1979 right behind none other than Paul Newman. Ferrier presented his first watch in 2010, the Galet Classique, a superbly classical yet suave timepiece with a phenomenally
gorgeous and painstakingly hand decorated tourbillon movement. His vision of pure elegant designs and superbly finished movements has made the brand a favorite amongst aficionados of independent watchmaking. The Galet Traveller is a superb modern take on the Patek Philippe dual time reference 2597 from the 1960s with two buttons on the side of the case that, once pressed, will move the hour hand backward or forward by one hour increcmetns to set time in a new time zone, home time being elegantly displayed via an aperture at 9 o’clock and the date displayed at 3 o’clock. The dial on this white gold example combines different depths and finishes in silver to contrast against elegant the brand’s signature Assegai hands and elongated hour markers in pink gold. The Galet Traveller features a double direct-impulse natural escapement (an escapement devised by Breguet in the late 18th century and which very few watchmakers have managed to recreate) using two nickel phosphorous escape wheels and a silicon lever as ensuring better distribution of energy. The movement is superbly hand finished and decorated with a beautifully tapered rotor bridge, polished angles, and Geneva waves. The present example in white gold with pink gold hands and accents is offered here in excellent condition with its full set of original accessories, even down to the original purchase receipt.
LAURENT FERRIER
Galet Traveller
56.
An elegant and extraordinary platinum tourbillon wristwatch with power reserve display, remontoir d’egalité, ruthenium dial, and ruthenium-coated movement
F.P. JOURNE
Tourbillon Souverain “Ruthenium”
Museum quality reference books, countless scholarly articles, and many auction footnotes have been written for the grand triumvirate of watchmaking: Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet, along with such legends as Breguet and modern master George Daniels. Gaining increasing reverence, particularly in the past few years, is Montres Journe, the namesake manufacture of the inimitable François-Paul Journe, one of the most prominent living watchmakers of our time. Journe’s interpretations of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s masterful inventions, the tourbillon and the resonance (though, technically speaking, Breguet would actually create a double pendulum / double escapement watch based on the invention of Janvier Antide), have catapulted his watches into the most esteemed and venerable collections worldwide. He completed his first tourbillon wristwatch, Tourbillon No. 1, in 1991, to little if any fanfare from the industry. He revisited his tourbillon wristwatch in 1999 in order to fund the launch of his own eponymous brand, taking again after Breguet by offering a “Souscription” series: the client would pay a portion up front, without seeing the watch, and Journe would complete and deliver the watch at a later date. Following the Souscription series, the Tourbillon Souverain was produced in series with brass movements, comprising four different generations.
56.
An elegant and extraordinary platinum tourbillon wristwatch with power reserve display, remontoir d’egalité, ruthenium dial, and ruthenium-coated movement
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2001
Reference No.
T
Case No.
61/99-01
Model Name
Ruthenium Tourbillon Souverain
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1498, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum F.P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap, and clasp signed.
Estimate $120,000-240,000 Σ €103,000-206,000 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe Certificate and Warranty numbered 61/99 and dated April 2003, signed by François-Paul Journe, additional platinum tang buckle, instruction booklet, fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
Between 2001 and 2003, Journe created the Ruthenium collection to bookend the brass movement production and move to 18K pink gold movements now in use throughout Journe’s watches. The Ruthenium collection comprises five models: the Octa Jour/Nuit (Night/Day), the Octa Calandrier, the Octa Chronographe, the Chronomètre à Résonance, and the Tourbillon Souveraine (the present watch). Each model was released in only 99 examples and are some of the most highly coveted, early Journe timepieces. Stylistically, the Ruthenium collection, with their larger, 40 mm case diameter, close the door on the early brass movement pieces, and ushered in the more modern iterations that have drawn admirers of Journe’s craft year after year. This Ruthenium Tourbillon Souverain is powered by the brass movement caliber 1498, but it is coated in light-absorbing ruthenium. Similarly, the white gold dial is specially coated with the same ruthenium, yet the remarkable sheen and luster found in Journe’s earliest dials is preserved. Such Journe dials often display beautiful variations of patina, and in this case, the tarnish-free darkness of ruthenium further enhances the glimmer of the underlying gold dial. It is stunning to behold, especially when viewed under different lighting conditions. First identified and isolated in 1844, Ruthenium is a heavy, platinum group metal named after the antiquated Latin word for Russia, Ruthenia. Exceptionally rare, fresh-to-the-market, and consigned by the original owner, this superb example was hardly worn and remains in pristine condition. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
F.P. JOURNE
Tourbillon Souverain “Ruthenium”
57.
Breitling — An extremely well-preserved and historically important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and box, made for the Italian Army
Manufacturer
Breitling
Year
1975
Reference No.
817
Case No.
1’433’429; outside of case stamped with military issue number E.I. 0451
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 236, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Maruman flexible link bracelet
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed, caseback stamped by Italian military.
Estimate $8,000-15,000 €6,900-12,900 Accessories Accompanied by military issue box by Breitling. Further accompanied by Extract from the Archives indicating that the case was manufactured in January of 1975.
Since pilots began wearing watches on their wrists during combat, in the dogfights of World War I, the watches themselves have evolved and adapted to match the tastes and requirements of those pilots, in partnership with the militaries writ large and the watch manufacturers. In the 1960s and 1970s, in the global arms race of the Cold War and the technological advancements being made particularly in the realm of air transportation and defense, analog watches still had their role to play. The Breitling 817 is unique amongst the mechanical wristwatches of this era for a few reasons: a few pristine examples have survived for documented reasons and a civilian version was never made. Ordered in 1974 and produced in 1975 for Italian army helicopter pilots and commanders of the Battaglione Paracadutisti Carabinieri Tuscania (1st Carabinieri
Paratroopers Regiment “Tuscania”), the Breitling 817 was produced in very limited numbers. It is believed that fewer than 1000 were delivered, and only a handful have appeared publicly in the past half-century. The regiment dates back to World War II, and is currently a special operations unit of the Italian Carabinieri based in Livorno. Nicknamed the “Desert Lions”, their motto is “Se il destino è contro di noi, peggio per lui” or “If Destiny is against us, then too bad for him.” The reference 817 was made according to military specifications, using the smaller CP-1 case measuring 39.5mm, instead of the CP-2 which measures 42mm. The present example remains exceptionally well preserved with the issue number “E. I. 0451”, which stands for “Esercito Italiano” (Italian Army), still crisp and starkly legible on the caseback. The dial has aged nicely over the years, as evidenced by the vivid contrast between the green luminous markers and orange hands. This discrepancy in color has been consistently observed across all known examples of this reference. This exact example is believed to be one of the batch deaccessioned by the Italian government in 2016 and sold as a single lot only to registered Italian companies. It comes on its original Japanese extensible Speidel bracelet, and with special original military-issued box reading “Cronometro da Polso Mod. 1 Unif” in absolutely top condition for the connoisseur of vintage military watches.
58.
Omega — A very rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with blue tachymeter bezel and bracelet
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1965
Reference No.
105.003-64
Movement No.
22’082’401, stamped OXG
Model Name
Speedmaster, “Ed White”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega link bracelet, endlinks stamped 6, max length 150mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp stamped 7913, and 1.65
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed
Estimate $10,000-15,000 €8,600-12,900 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch on May 7th, 1965 and its delivery to the United States.
The reference 105.003 marks a pivotal moment in Omega’s history, as it was the Speedmaster reference rigorously tested by NASA that would become the timepiece chosen to accompany astronauts to the moon. From that moment forward, the destiny of Omega was fundamentally and profoundly changed, and has since been very closely aligned with space exploration. Nicknamed the “Ed White” for astronaut Ed White who wore a reference 105.003-65 during his historic spacewalk during the Gemini 4 mission in June 1965, becoming the first American to do so. He stayed in space longer than his allotted time, and famously upon his return remarked “I’m coming back in…and it’s the saddest moment of my life.”
The present example is offered for the first time at auction, and features a very rare, vibrant blue tachymeter bezel. Research indicates approximately 22 similar examples are known, within the date ranges between 1964 and 1965, and clustered around the serial numbers 22’08X’XXX and 20’527’XXX. These rare bezels are found mainly on the references 105.003-64 like the present watch, the 105.01264, as well as one publicly known reference CK2998. It is interesting to note the current owner purchased this rare Omega via the American classified advertisement website, Craigslist.com, where he originally thought the dial was tropical through the post’s images. After purchase, he realized the dial was not tropical once receiving photos from the owner. When he finally held the watch in his hands, he was thrilled to discover the vibrant blue of the bezel, and began a journey to uncover the story of the blue bezel. The “Ed White” is a historically important reference, and this example is in excellent overall condition with correct Omega bracelet and end links, and even more importantly the very rare blue bezel. This Speedmaster will captivate collectors both for it historical role in American space exploration and its rarity.
59.
A rare and attractive stainless steel diver’s watch with “No Radiations” black dial and date
Manufacturer
Blancpain
Year
1965
Case No.
301’598
Model Name
Fifty Fathoms
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. AS 1700, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel buckle
Dimensions
41mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate $12,000-24,000 €10,300-20,600
Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms dive watch was first released in 1953 as a tool watch for professional divers from a newly formed French Army combat unit. The founders wanted to design a watch that fit their specific needs, and while they submitted their specs to various brands, only Blancpain, whose then CEO was an avid diver, accepted the challenge, and the watch soon became a favorite with both professional, and civilian divers. The present example from the second half of the 1960s is a wonderful example of the civilian use dive watch, which featured the now coveted “No Radiations” black glossy dial. Until the early 1960s, watch dials featured radium, a radioactive material allowing the dials to illuminate in the dark for greater visibility. Once common on all watch dials, it was determined radium had adverse health’s affects, and therefore was banned from use in 1963. Blancpain added the “No Radiation” signature and cross marks to their civilian dial so buyers were aware of this designation.
BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms “No Radiations”
60.
A historically important and exceptionally rare oversized military pilot’s single-button chronograph wristwatch with black dial and military markings
Manufacturer
Longines
Year
1935
Reference No.
3592
Movement No.
5’298’483
Case No.
5’298’483
Model Name
Type A-7 Avigation Hack
Material
Chrome-plated metal
Calibre
Manual, cal. 18.72, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Metal
Dimensions
49mm Diameter
Signed
Case and movement signed, caseback engraved with military markings, movement additionally signed U.S. Army Air Corps.
Estimate $30,000-60,000 €25,700-51,500 Accessories Accompanied by Longines Extract from the Archives confirming production of this watch with serial number 5’298’483 and delivery on September 4th, 1935 to A. Wittnauer Co., the American agent for Longines at the time. Additionally accompanied by the original crystal and U.S. Army Air Corps medals from the original owner.
Launched before World War II, these single pusher chronographs were initially produced for aviators with the dial set at an angle so the time could be read easily while piloting. A single button pusher incorporated into the crown allowed the pilot to easily start, stop and reset the chronograph to zero. The Longines A-7 “Avigation” name comes from the US Army Air Corps “Type A” designations for many of their issued
equipment watches and derives from the conjunction of “Aerial Navigation”. After the war and for a very short period of time, a small production in stainless steel was produced for the civilian market, while the military version, like the present lot, was chrome-plated. The present specimen impresses not only with its immaculate dial, but also with the wealth of military engravings present on its case back. 8 lines of text detail the military destination of the watch and its purpose as an aviator’s timing device, the model name, the serial, order and specification numbers followed by a “Mfr’s Assy Dwg” (‘Mfr’ most likely standing for manufacturer, ‘Assy’ and ‘Dwg’ possibly for assembly drawing) and finally the manufacturer’s signature. A truly invaluable accessory for military pilots of the time, these timepieces were extensively used, often in combat situations. It is also fitted with the original leather strap and buckle. The present lot, however, goes one step further than exceptional quality and rarity, with incredible and unprecedented provenance, coming directly from the family of the original owner. Two brothers, separated by only two years, both enlisted in the U.S. Army Air Corps during WWII, one remaining stateside as a flight instructor from 1942-1945, and one sent overseas as a combat pilot, flying a P47 Thunderbolt and completing 87 missions over enemy territory. While it is unclear which brother the A-7 was issued to, the likelihood is that it was for the flight instructor. Either way, this is the first time in recent memory that a Longines Avigation has surfaced from the family of the original owner, and is even accompanied with U.S. Army Air Corps medals issued to the original owner. It is a rare opportunity for the connoisseur, not to be missed. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL FAMILY
LONGINES A-7 Avigation U.S. Army Air Corps
61.
An extremely well-preserved, very rare, and early stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with oversized registers, large bezel, full lume hands, and Gay Frères bracelet
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
Circa 1962
Reference No.
2446
Movement No.
456’598
Case No.
49’301
Model Name
Autavia, “Full Lume”, 1st execution dial, 1st execution hands
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Valjoux 72, 17 jewel
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel, double beads of rice Gay Frères link bracelet with HL endlinks, max overall length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Heuer stainless steel clasp stamped 3.69
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed by maker and Gay Frères
Estimate $30,000-60,000 €25,700-51,500
Long associated with the racetrack, Jack Heuer knew the importance of precision timekeeping. When he lost a local rally due to misreading the dashboard timers for motorsports he designed during the 1950s, he sought to create more legible chronographs with dials and hands that were clean, crisp and easy to read. This experience clearly shaped the design of the earliest Heuer Autavias from the early 1960s, which featured oversized contrasting registers and large, luminous dauphine hands and numerals.
In 1961, Jack Heuer and his production team decided to create the Autavia with the name coming from a combination of the words “Automobile” and “Aviation” as their first named chronograph. Prior to then, Heuer hadn’t designed a chronograph wristwatch with a rotating bezel, and the Autavia would have this new feature with a choice of calibrations. Two bezel types were offered, one with 60 separate one-minute divisions that allowed the wearer to set a marker for a defined interval of time, while the second bezel had 12-hour divisions that would allow for another time zone to be displayed. An early Heuer brochure from 1962 illustrated both the reference 2446 and the reference 3646 under the title “New AUTAVIA Chronographs for pilots, sportsmen, divers and scientists”. Clearly, Heuer aimed to market this new collection across a broad spectrum of active professionals. Phillips is proud to offer this truly superb, “First Execution” Autavia reference 2446 from 1962. It is without a doubt one of the finest examples ever to be offered publicly. Featuring charismatic, oversized white subsidiary dials that contrast beautifully with the untouched black dial, it is accentuated by its original “first execution” full lume hands. The luminous hour markers and bezel triangle have acquired a lovely mocha patina, together with the hands. Its case and original bezel remain exceptionally well-preserved, with all factory finishing remaining crisp and intact. It further features its original unsigned crown and early pushers. Finally, the watch is further enhanced by its lovely, original “double beads of rice” Gay Frères bracelet, with original and extremely rare ‘HL’ endlinks. The complete originality, outstanding condition, and utter rarity of this nearly 60 year old wristwatch will be sure to please even the most discerning collector.
HEUER
Ref. 2446 Autavia “Full Lume” 1st Execution
62.
Girard-Perregaux — A fine pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phase, automatic winding, accompanied with winding presentation box
Manufacturer
Girard-Perregaux
Year
Circa 2004
Reference No.
9027
Case No.
No. 28
Model Name
Vintage 1945 XXL
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3170-878, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K Pink gold Girard Perregaux deployant clasp
Dimensions
54mm overall length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $6,000-8,000 • Σ €5,100-6,900 Accessories Accompanied by photocopy of the Girard Perregaux Certificate of Authenticity dated 12 May, 2004, wooden Girard Perregaux automatic winding presentation box, winding box charger, and outer packaging.
Established in 1856, Girard-Perregaux was at the vanguard of excellence in Swiss watchmaking, and today is known as the first vertically integrated Swiss watchmaking company, manufacturing high-grade movements, cases, and dials within
its premises. Particularly noteworthy are the brand’s threegold-bridge tourbillon pocket watches built by Constant Girard beginning in 1867 — considered amongst the most beautiful movement architectures ever made. As an active participant in Switzerland’s observatory chronometry competitions, the brand won so many precision awards that they were excluded from competing in 1901. Key models from the brand include 19th and 20th century pocket watches with three gold bridges, modern tourbillon wristwatches with three gold bridges, and their Art Deco inspired Vintage 1945 collection. The present Vintage 1945 XXL, No. 28, is part of a tradition by Girard Perregaux to produce technical watches that takes the wearer back to a period of practical elegance. The case design evokes the early 20th century with a curved case, which fits neatly on to the wrist. The lines are fluid and less structural, creating the perfect harmony of form and function. The present example in pink gold is in excellent condition and enhanced by the black dial with pink gold numerals. The watch is an extremely attractive example of this key model. It is a welcome reminder of the past elegance and harmony of early 20th century horology. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
63.
Panerai — An extremely rare and unusual limited edition white gold wristwatch with jumping seconds, certificate, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Panerai
Year
2001
Reference No.
PAM00080; OP-6551
Case No.
BB1032015; D125/160
Model Name
Radiomir Independent
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, Chézard cal. 7400, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Panerai pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap, and buckle signed.
Estimate $12,000-24,000 €10,300-20,600 Accessories Accompanied by Certificate confirming the watch is part of a limited series of 160 pieces, warranty booklet and blank warranty card, specification paper, inner fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
First established in 1860 in Florence, Italy, Officine Panerai began as a purveyor of specialized precision instruments like compasses and depth gauges. By the turn of the twentieth century, the firm transitioned to manufacturing wristwatches as well. Today their watches stay true to the original Panerai DNA, easily identified by their oversized cushion-shaped case and clear legible dial. This Radiomir Independent is at once a step away from these origins and a natural successor to them. Cased in white gold, rather than utilitarian stainless steel or titanium, and shrunk
down to a petite-for-Panerai 42mm diameter, the PAM80 nevertheless retains the cushion-form case and wire lugs of its forebearers. Though it bears the oversized luminous numerals associated with Panerai watches, it also displays a brilliant blue dial quite apart from the typical black or white dials associated with military legibility. Within beats the caliber 7400, a Chézard ébauche dating from the 1950s finished by Panerai with an unusual complication: jumping seconds. Rather than “sweeping seconds”, where the seconds hand seamlessly moves from one second to the other, the PAM80 incorporates a jumping second via a starand-flirt mechanism, and the seconds hand appears to “jump” from one second to the other. Instead of the seconds hand mirroring the flow of energy from the escapement every time it oscillates, the jump seconds must store energy during its pause between each second and release it instantaneously. Produced in a highly limited quantity, these models hardly ever pop up at auction, making the present opportunity as rare as the watch itself. Offered in fantastic condition with its original certificate and accessories, the PAM80 is a rare opportunity to own a watch combining innovation and creativity with the heritage and prestige of a historical brand like Panerai: the best of both worlds.
64.
A unique and attractive black ceramic tourbillon wristwatch with certificate of authenticity, hang tag and presentation box sold to benefit The One Drop Foundation
Manufacturer
Hublot
Year
Circa 2007
Reference No.
305.CL.1600.RX.GAR09
Case No.
766’662
Model Name
Big Bang
Material
Black ceramic
Calibre
Manual
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber Hublot strap
Clasp/Buckle
Blacken stainless steel Hublot deployant buckle
Dimensions
42.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, clasp signed
Estimate $15,000-30,000 €12,900-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by Hublot Certificate of Authenticity confirming the watch is unique, wood and glass Hublot presentation box, additional leather Hublot box, hang tag, leather envelope, and outer packaging
Introduced in 2005, Hublot’s “Big Bang” model has become one of the most distinctive timepieces on the market, having won the “Best Design” award at the 2005 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Known for its iconic “porthole” design, over the last two decades, the brand has released numerous models from time only to complicated, including chronographs, and tourbillons like the present example. Hublot has focused on innovative materials, and traditional Swiss watch manufacturing with a contemporary look. Ceramic has become a popular element in watchmaking known for its durability and hardness. The present Hublot Big Bang tourbillon wristwatch is encased in black ceramic and is a unique piece. The watch features a large, bold case crafted in black ceramic that is highly scratch-resistant. The black ceramic bezel is fitted with six blackened screws, giving the watch a very powerful and masculine appeal. It is most likely this all ceramic construction that makes the watch unique. Further enhancing the overall black appearance, the watch is fitted with a matte black dial and numerals, and a glazed aperture allowing the viewer to admire the one minute tourbillon carriage. Offered in exceptional condition, the watch is complete with its original certificate of authenticity and fitted presentation boxes. The present lot is being sold to benefit The One Drop Foundation, a non-profit striving to provide safe drinking water to vulnerable communities. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
HUBLOT
Big Bang Tourbillon “Pièce Unique”
65.
An extremely rare, early, and technically impressive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with tourbillon and black dial
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2004
Reference No.
25909
Movement No.
570’397
Case No.
E99359
Model Name
Jules Audemars Tourbillon Chronographe
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 2879/1, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
43mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 • Σ €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives registering this watch on 22nd January 2004.
A watchmaker by training and trade, Jules-Louis Audemars founded Audemars Piguet in 1875 alongside his partner, also a watchmaker, Edward-Auguste Piguet, when both were in their early twenties. Once the company was up and running, Piguet concentrated on the “front-of-house” aspects of the business, while Audemars took charge of the technical horological work. The maison’s early horological accomplishments were therefore achieved under the helm of Jules Audemars, such as creating the first minute-repeating wristwatch movement in 1892, and their “Grande Complication” in 1899. This drive for mechanical perfection and mastery has continued throughout the ensuing decades, and during the 1990s, the Jules Audemars collection was released to honor him as a founder and visionary. Cased in pink gold, the present timepiece features both a chronograph and tourbillon mechanism. The dial displays an inky black dial with oversized luminous Arabic numerals, which provides the perfect surrounding for the aperture exposing the tourbillon-equipped escapement. Superbly finished in a wellsized case, the Jules Audemars Tourbillon Chronographe offers an eye-catching take on traditional haute horologerie. THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
AUDEMARS PIGUET Ref. 25909 Jules Audemars Tourbillon Chronograph
66–68.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
1815 Homage to Walter Lange
In 1845, founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange established his own workshop in Glashütte Saxony, and A. Lange & Söhne flourished for close to 100 years. However its factories were sadly destroyed during final days of World War II, and the brand would soon be confiscated by the Soviets. Following the demise of the Soviet Union and the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, Ferdinand’s great grandson, Walter Lange, reestablished the brand once again in Glashütte in 1990. Four years later, the first collection, comprised of four watches was launched in 1994 and the brand immediately rose again to the forefront of haute horology. The passing of Walter Lange in early 2017 was not only a huge loss for the industry and the company, but even more so for the men and women who knew him personally, working with him throughout the years. Colleagues and staff decided to pay homage to this great man by creating a timepiece that he had been thinking about for quite some time, a watch that was originally conceived by his greatgrandfather and granted one of Germany’s first patents in 1877: a timepiece with independently stoppable jumping center seconds and separate seconds sub dial. In less than one year, the watchmakers and engineers from Glashütte achieved the feat of creating a brand new movement with jumping seconds, the “1815 Homage to Walter Lange” was born. The newly developed movement had a special caliber designation: L1924, referring to Walter’s birth year, while the first three digits of the reference number, 297.XXX memorialized his birth date of 29 July, 1924. Presented at the Salon International de Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in January 2018, the new model was made in a limited edition of 145 pieces in white gold, 90 pieces in pink gold, 27 pieces in yellow gold and a unique piece in stainless steel with black grand feu enamel dial. The stainless steel unique piece was sold during Phillips’ The Geneva Watch Auction 7 sale in May 2018 for a world-record price of CHF 852,500 – with proceeds benefitting the Swiss charity, Children Action. Similar to the caliber designation, and reference number, each of the limited editions mark an important date related to Walter Lange; 145 years separate the founding of the company and its resurrection, 1990 was the year the resurrection took place, and the release of the watches occurred 27 years after the 1990 rebranding. The wristwatches are alluring and seductive both from their classic design perspective, and wonderfully complex mechanism.
66.
A new-old-stock limited edition white gold wristwatch with independently stoppable jumping center seconds, guarantee, and presentation box, number 145 of 145
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2017
Reference No.
297.026
Movement No.
136’072
Case No.
No. 145/145, 238’815
Model Name
1815 Homage to Walter Lange
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, L.1924, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold A. Lange & Söhne buckle
Dimensions
40.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 Σ €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne guarantee, presentation box, leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging.
Phillips is honored to offer one each of these limited edition gold wristwatches – all with prestigious serial numbers usually reserved for Lange’s most important clients. This white gold example is the last of its series, number 145 of 145. Offered for the first time at auction in unworn condition by the original owner, it is accompanied by its original guarantee and presentation box, a testament to both Walter Lange and German engineering. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
1815 Homage to Walter Lange “White”
67.
A new-old-stock limited edition yellow gold wristwatch with independently stoppable jumping center seconds, guarantee, and presentation box, number 24 of 27
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2017
Reference No.
297.021
Movement No.
136’069
Case No.
No. 24/27, 239’059
Model Name
1815 Homage to Walter Lange
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, L.1924, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold A. Lange & Söhne buckle
Dimensions
40.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 Σ €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne guarantee, presentation box, leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging.
Phillips is honored to offer one each of these limited edition gold wristwatches – all with prestigious serial numbers usually reserved for Lange’s most important clients. The present yellow gold example’s number 24 of 27 was carefully selected in honor of Walter Lange’s age, 24, when in 1948, the original manufacture was destroyed, and for his birth year in 1924. Offered for the first time at auction in unworn condition by the original owner, it is accompanied by its original guarantee and presentation box, a testament to both Walter Lange and German engineering. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
1815 Homage to Walter Lange “Yellow”
68.
A new-old-stock limited edition pink gold wristwatch with independently stoppable jumping center seconds, guarantee, and presentation box, number 90 of 90
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2017
Reference No.
297.032
Movement No.
136’136
Case No.
No. 90/90, 238’965
Model Name
1815 Homage to Walter Lange
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, L.1924, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold A. Lange & Söhne buckle
Dimensions
40.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 Σ €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne guarantee, presentation box, leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging.
Phillips is honored to offer one each of these limited edition gold wristwatches – all with prestigious serial numbers usually reserved for Lange’s most important clients. The present pink gold example is the final example of its series, number 90 of 90. Offered for the first time at auction in unworn condition by the original owner, they each are accompanied by their original guarantees and presentation boxes, and are a testament to both Walter Lange, and German engineering. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
1815 Homage to Walter Lange “Pink”
69.
A very fine and extremely rare pink gold skeletonized tourbillon wristwatch with power reserve, date indicator, integrated bracelet, certificate, and presentation box, sold to benefit The One Drop Foundation
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2010
Reference No.
25902OR.OO.1110OR.01
Movement No.
719’248
Case No.
F59312
Model Name
Royal Oak Automatique Tourbillon
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2875, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak integrated bracelet, max length 230mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, bracelet, and clasp signed .
Estimate $60,000-120,000 €51,500-103,000 Accessories Accompanied by guarantee booklet indicating sale on May 12th 2010 at the Audemars Piguet boutique in New York City, product literature, fitted presentation box, outer packaging, and hang tag.
In 1997, it had become clear that the Royal Oak, despite misgivings at the outset, had become a true classic of modern watchmaking and a cornerstone of Audemars Piguet’s horological offerings. A 25th anniversary commemorative Royal Oak Automatic Tourbillon was released, bearing the exceptional caliber 2875, and offered in a few selected case metals.
Beyond its absolute rarity, the movement itself is a remarkable feat of engineering, and it remained for a long time the only automatic tourbillon movement to be found in a Royal Oak. In order to achieve this combination within an ultra-thin design, a number of technical solutions were developed, such as the use of a bumper rotor: the one-minute tourbillon cage would impede the full revolution of a normal rotor. Another interesting feature is the winding crown’s placement on the caseback, which allows the absolute balance and symmetry of the dial to continue to the case as well. Turn the watch over and through the sapphire caseback, one can see true watchmaking artistry: an elaborately engraved and openworked mainplate, with floral and leaf scroll motifs and the Audemars Piguet logo cleverly rendered seamlessly into the design. The same design frames the outer portion of the skeletonized dial and is visible through the tourbillon cage. Utterly rare, these hardly ever seen Royal Oak Automatic Tourbillons approach the summit of Royal Oak collecting. Being sold to benefit The One Drop Foundation, a non-profit striving to provide safe drinking water to vulnerable communities, the present lot is exceptionally well-preserved and is complete with its original guarantee, presentation boxes, and hang tag. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
AUDEMARS PIGUET
Royal Oak Automatique Tourbillon Squelette
70.
A fine and attractive limited edition pink gold tourbillon wristwatch with date and power reserve, with guarantee and presentation box, numbered 116 of 250
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
Circa 2002
Reference No.
704.032
Movement No.
16’266
Case No.
116/250, 129’116
Model Name
Lange 1 Tourbillon
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. L961.1, 49 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold A. Lange & Söhne deployant clasp
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $60,000-100,000 €51,500-85,800 Accessories A. Lange and Söhne International Guarantee dated 06. 2002, leather presentation box, product literature and outer packaging.
A Lange and Söhne has long been associated with both its intriguing 176 year history as well as its excellence in traditional watchmaking and precision time keeping. Founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolf Lange, the brand was a power house of German engineering and mechanical innovation. During World War II the company was nationalized and ceased operations in 1948 following Russian occupation of Eastern Germany
post WWII. With the demise of the Soviet Union in 1989, Walter Lange re-established the brand founded by his greatgrandfather in Glashütte in 1990. The brand’s first modern collection, comprised of four wristwatches, was launched in 1994 and immediately brought A Lange & Söhne to the forefront of haute horology once again. One of the four timepieces offered at the time was the timeless and now iconic Lange One. A contemporary timepiece, the model combined the skill and knowledge first learned during the 19th century, featuring a three-quarter plate movement with screwed gold chatons and hand-finished surfaces, while the dial featured an off-centered layout and oversized date windows. Since the Lange One was first released, the brand has gone on to create many iterations of this classic timepiece. To commemorate the new millennium, A. Lange & Söhne released a series of Lange 1 models including the present limited edition Lange 1 Tourbillon, produced in 250 pink gold and 150 platinum examples. Housed in a 38.5mm diameter case, the model is classic Lange 1 with a cut out window at the 5 o’clock for the tourbillon, which is composed of 72 individual parts. The present example, number 116, is in excellent, hardly-worn condition and is complete with guarantee and presentation box. Dating from the turn of the 21st century, this is a rare opportunity for collectors to own a prestigious tourbillon model from one of the most admired brands on the market today.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
Lange 1 Tourbillon
71.
A rare and exceptional pink gold hour and quarter striking wristwatch with digital time display, hack feature, power reserve with guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
Circa 2016
Reference No.
145.032
Movement No.
110’133
Case No.
222’380
Model Name
Zeitwerk Striking Time
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. L043.2, 78 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold A. Lange & Söhne buckle
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate $60,000-120,000 €51,500-103,000 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne guarantee dated 7 January 2016, fitted presentation box, product literature and outer packaging.
A. Lange & Söhne is one of the most distinguished and appreciated watchmakers in existence, focusing on elegant and complicated timepieces. Known since their inception in the 18th century for their technical innovations and precision timing, their movements are cherished by collectors, and are highly sought after today. Since the firm was re-established in 1994 with their first collection of four wristwatches, they have continued to bring excellence to haute horlogerie.
In 2009, A. Lange & Söhne introduced their Zeitwerk collection with an innovative digital jump hour “Time Bridge” display. It was a technical marvel combining an aesthetically pleasing design with an impressive movement. Housed within a 44mm case, the caliber incorporates a constant-force escapement and remontoire to ensure each digital display instantaneously changes at every passing minute, ten minute, and hour. The model became an expression of German precision engineering, and is a testament to the expression “form follows function”. Over the past decade, the brand expanded the collection and introduced the Zeitwerk Striking Time in 2011 – a highly complicated timepiece with instantaneous digital display, but now also incorporating a striking mechanism chiming the hours and quarters hours. A hybrid petite Sonnerie, the in-house caliber L043.2 mechanism features visible gongs and hammers on the dial side that chime the quarters using a high pitch gong on the right, while the hours are chimed by a lower pitch gong on the left The present watch is in hardly worn, nearly new condition and comes complete with guarantee and presentation box. The Zeitwerk collection represents a pinnacle in precision engineering and horology, and the present pink gold model is a rare opportunity for the collector.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
Zeitwerk Striking Time
72.
A fine limited edition white gold wristwatch with date and center seconds, with original Certificate of Origin, presentation box, and tie tag.
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2015
Reference No.
5153G-012
Movement No.
5’892’743
Case No.
6’047’372
Model Name
Calatrava London Special Edition
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $15,000-30,000 €12,900-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated 4th September, 2015, wooden presentation box, leather envelope with product literature, tie tag and outer packaging.
In 2015, Patek Philippe released their London Boutique collection as part of their 175th anniversary celebrations, which began in October 2014 when the brand debuted their mythical Grandmaster Chime wristwatch reference 5175. The salon timepieces included five limited edition wristwatches, two “London” enamel dial wristwatches, along with a “Tudor Rose” enamel pocket watch and a “View of London” and “Roses of London” enamel dome clocks. The selection of limited edition wristwatches included a time only Calatrava reference 5153G like the present lot, a perpetual calendar retrograde wristwatch,
along with the Grand Complication reference 5213G-012, and a woman’s minute repeating and time only timepieces. Several of these models were encased in Patek Philippe’s iconic officerstyle case with hinged, engraved “London 2015” case back. The timepieces were originally only available through Patek Philippe’s London Boutique on Bond Street. The reference 5153G was the entry level wristwatch from the collection, and produced in a limited edition of 80 timepieces. The officer-style Calatrava model was originally introduced by Patek Philippe in 1989 with their reference 3960, which celebrated the brand’s 150th anniversary. The design was based on their iconic Calatrava but given a distinct vintage appeal with straight lugs, screwed strap bars, onion-shaped crown, and engraved, hinge case back. The design has been used for other limited edition examples like the 2014 reference 5153G model commemorating the re-opening of Patek Philippe’s Beijing Boutique. The London model featured a larger 38mm diameter case compared to the original, but retained the classic silvered dial with gorgeous applied Breguet numerals, railway minute track and center seconds. Inside, the movement is the updated, caliber 324SC featuring a date window at 3 o’clock. The reference 5153G is an elegant timepiece that works well both as an everyday watch, and with a touch of sophistication as an evening wear timepiece. The present example is in excellent condition, and offered for the first time at auction. It is accompanied by its original Certificate of Origin, presentation box and tie tag. Patek Philippe’s Calatrava model is one of the most iconic timepieces, and this lovely London Boutique edition is a wonderful modern representation of the model.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5135G/012 Calatrava “London Exhibiton 2015”
73.
A fine and attractive white gold annual calendar wristwatch with moon phase, power reserve indication, and bracelet, with Certificate of Origin, hang tags and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2007
Reference No.
5146/1G-001
Movement No.
3’605’093
Case No.
4’387’307
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 315, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Patek Philippe link bracelet, overall max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe double deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate $20,000-40,000 €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated October 2nd, 2007, wooden fitted presentation box, 18K white gold setting pin, hang tags, leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging.
Patek Philippe has long been recognized amongst collectors as a brand which brings innovation to the forefront of horology. They are known for some of watchmaking’s most important milestone models produced from the first serialized perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch to highly sophisticated minute repeating timepieces. In 1996, they introduced an all-new annual calendar model, which was both technically innovative and revolutionary, creating a new category of complicated wristwatches that is now offered by many Swiss brands today. Patek Philippe’s reference 5035 was the world’s first annual calendar wristwatch, and as the brand’s press releases stated at the time, was designed as a “useful” complication that was practical and affordable. The annual calendar mechanism sits between simple calendar watches that require adjustment five times a year, and perpetual calendar timepieces that need no adjustment as long as they are kept wound. The annual calendar needs adjustment once a year between February 28th or 29th and March 1st. The success of the complication prompted Patek Philippe to offer it in the Nautilus reference 5726, and annual calendar chronograph reference 5980. Released in 2005, the reference 5146 was Patek Philippe’s second annual calendar wristwatch. It was first offered in yellow and white gold, with a platinum example introduced in 2006 and in 2008 a pink gold model. With its heavy 18 karat white gold bracelet and warm, cream-colored dial it is an impressive watch for the connoisseur. Offered for the first time at auction and in very good overall condition, it comes complete with its Certificate of Origin and presentation box.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5146/1G Annual Calendar
74.
A very fine and attractive white gold dual-time pilot’s wristwatch with date, day and night indication, Certificate of Origin, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2017
Reference No.
5524G-001
Movement No.
5’898’551
Case No.
6’086’241
Model Name
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 S C FUS, 29 jewels, stamped with the Patek Philippe seal
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap, and buckle signed.
Estimate $25,000-45,000 €21,500-38,600 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated December 26th, 2015, product literature, leather envelope, instruction manual, setting pin, hang tag, inner fitted box, cloth, and outer presentation box.
Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Pilot Travel Time took its inspiration from early 20th century air travel pioneers and the oversized wristwatches of those early navigators. Released at Baselworld in 2015, the reference 5524 at first met some resistance from the collecting community as it was a 21st century dual-time wristwatch made for 21st century tastes and not merely an iteration of a more classic offering. Sentiments quickly changed, and the watch became sought after for its thoroughly modern functionality as a companion piece for world travelers. The 42mm diameter case is dominated by two large correctors found at the 8 and 10 o’clock positions. These allow for easy time-changing capability and feature patent-pending safety locks to ensure the time is not accidentally changed. The white gold indices are filled with Superluminova, increasing the legibility of the oversized Arabic numerals. A bold sword hand indicates local time, and a second, skeletonized hand shows home time. In 2018 Patek Philippe issued a new model in rose gold, and a lady’s version, reference 7234R. Today, the reference is firmly entrenched in the Patek Philippe anthology. Complete with its guarantee and all original accessories, and presented in excellent condition from the original owner, the opportunity to purchase this forward-thinking watch from Patek Philippe should not be missed. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5524G Calatrava Pilot
75.
A very fine and attractive pink gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, leap year indication, Certificate of Origin, additional hard caseback, and setting pin
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2014
Reference No.
5140R-001
Movement No.
5’616’028
Case No.
4’752’354
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240 Q, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 Σ €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated June 14th, 2014, product literature, leather wallet, additional hard caseback, hang tag, setting pin, and paper envelope.
The reference 5140 came to market in 2006, replacing the previous reference 3940. Though Patek Philippe’s automatic perpetual calendar movement, the caliber 240 Q, remained intact, the case dimensions increased from a classic 36mm to a more contemporary 37.2mm. Additionally, the design and text of the dial were updated to match Patek Philippe’s other contemporary offerings and to allow for enhanced legibility. The slim profile, fluid and iconic Calatrava case, and practical function make for a highly desirable timepiece for the modern man or woman. Patek Philippe discontinued all the case metal and dial configurations of the reference 5140 by 2016, and replaced it with the reference 5327 which is currently in production. The present offering, encased in 18K pink gold and bearing a striking bronze-colored dial, was first produced in 2010. This example in hardly-worn condition and complete with its original paperwork and additional hard caseback offers an attractive proposition for those in pursuit of technical excellence, daily wearability, and subtle glamour.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5140R Perpetual Calendar
76.
A classic and impressive white gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphase, leap year and day/night indicators, additional solid caseback, Certificate of Origin, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2015
Reference No.
5270G-014
Movement No.
5’891’073
Case No.
6’060’286
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 29-535, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap, and clasp signed.
Estimate $70,000-140,000 Σ €60,100-120,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated October 2nd, 2015, product literature, leather wallet, additional hard caseback, setting pin, hang tag, inner presentation box, and outer packaging.
Reference 5270 is the latest iteration of what can be considered the most noteworthy among Patek Philippe lines of wristwatches: the perpetual calendar chronograph with moonphase. While such watches have been made without interruption in series since 1941 - beginning with reference 1518 - the entire line encompasses only five references, each of
them considered a landmark model in its own right and fiercely desired by collectors of complicated timepieces. Launched in 2011, reference 5270 was the first model of the line to be fitted with an in-house movement, as Patek Philippe stopped sourcing ébauches from Nouvelle Lemania in 2010. This strategic decision allows for increased control over the production chain, and it is not a coincidence that it happened around the same time as the introduction of the Patek Philippe seal, the company’s own quality guarantee stamp. For the first two years, the 5270G was offered with an opaline white dial, but this was discontinued in 2013 for the present iteration. The most striking feature of the present watch is of course its sunburst blue dial. It is interesting to note how Patek Philippe opted for a very subtle sunburst effect: the lines radiating from the center are only apparent under certain lighting conditions. Offered from the collection of the original owner, this 5720G was purchased in a small town outside Genoa, Italy, near the Italian border with France. It is offered in impeccable overall condition with all of its original accessories, including additional solid caseback. No longer offered in the Patek Philippe catalogue, this is an exciting opportunity to obtain a highly coveted iteration of a modern complicated masterpiece. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5270G Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
77.
A new-old-stock stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet, accompanied by original guarantee, presentation box, and hang tags
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2003
Reference No.
16610LV
Case No.
F391977
Model Name
Submariner, Kermit Flat Four
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
undergone changes from the addition of a date window in 1967 with the reference 1680, and more efficient calibres, to design changes with the addition of crown guards, however the overall DNA has remained over the last 67 years whether in a vintage 37mm or modern 41mm diameter case.
Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee stamped Harts Jlrs, green leather Rolex presentation box, numbered green hang tag, red hang tag, anchor, green leather pouch with product literature, and outer packaging
In celebration of the Submariner’s 50th anniversary in 2003, Rolex for the first time released a new Submariner model with a bold and charismatic green bezel. It instantly became popular, and since then is now highly sought after. The new reference featured a black “maxi-dial”, referring to the large luminescent hour markers and an all new bezel color. It was this charismatic green bezel or “Lunette Verde” that added a new, eye-catching dimension. Nicknamed the “Kermit” by enthusiasts after the much-loved Sesame Street celebrity frog puppet, the green color was a logical choice for this edition. Green has a long tradition in Rolex’s history, with the brand’s use of green presentation boxes, green covered product literature, outer packaging, and marketing material spanning many decades. The earliest versions of the “Kermit”, like the present wristwatch, became known as the “Flat 4” due to the fat top found on the “40” numeral of the bezel.
Collectors have long cherished Rolex tool watches for their masculine sporty appeal, and durability with the Submariner model one of the most sought after today. First introduced in 1954 with the references 6200 and 6204, the Submariner has
Presented in absolutely “new-old-stock” condition, this watch displays the original factory sticker on the caseback and retains its plastic protective case and bezel covers. This F series model is complete with accessories and the original guarantee, and is a modern reinterpretation of this beloved classic.
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 93250 and CL5
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $20,000-40,000 €17,200-34,300
ROLEX
Ref. 16610LV “Flat Four Kermit Full Set”
78.
A stunning and incredibly well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1964
Reference No.
6238
Case No.
1’000’268
Model Name
“Pre-Daytona”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72B, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex USA Jubilee bracelet, endlinks stamped 49, max length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $25,000-50,000 €21,500-42,900
In the Bond thriller On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (1969), Bond, played by none other than the legendary George Lazenby, can be seen on the silver screen with a stainless steel reference 6238 on his wrist. Robust and reliable, the 6238 is Bond’s tool of choice when he makes his epic escape by skiing down Piz Gloria while the head of SPECTRE and his henchmen give chase.
The reference 6238 has a similarly epic background story off-screen as well, epitomizing an aesthetic and architectural turning point in the history of the Rolex chronograph. Produced for a short period from 1960 to 1967, it was the last Rolex chronograph to feature a smooth bezel with a tachymeter scale on the dial before it made the great and final migration to the bezel where it would stay until the present day. Featuring a radiant sunburst pattern, the stunning and flawless silvered dial has luminous hour markers and hands that have aged to a pleasing warm beige hue. The case is superbly well-preserved, with a sharp bezel and strongly defined lugs. Purchased directly from the original owner, this “two owner” watch is being offered as found, in absolutely exceptional overall condition.
ROLEX
Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona”
79.
An early and magnificently preserved stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with rotating bezel and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1954
Reference No.
6204; inside caseback stamped 6204
Movement No.
90’251
Case No.
988’923
Model Name
Submariner
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. A260, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet, endlinks stamped no. 65, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 2.53
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, bracelet, and clasp signed.
Estimate $80,000-160,000 €68,700-137,000
As the earliest Submariner to ever be sold publicly, the 6204 is the seminal reference for one of the most iconic timepieces of the modern era. Even in 1953, it displayed the characteristics of the same Submariner that is beloved to this day, with the rotating, 60-minute graduated bezel, luminous hour markers, wide and curvaceous bevels running through the length of the case, and durable Oyster bracelet.
Early examples of the reference bore cases engraved with the 900’XXX serial range, dating them to the beginning of 1953. Water resistant to 100 meters, they were fitted with a “small crown,” engraved with a Rolex coronet above the brevet cross. Powered the automatic caliber A260, it leveraged design features from the “bubblebacks” of the era, sharing the same caliber and slightly bulging casebacks. Secured under an acrylic, domed “Tropic 16”, lies a beautiful gilt dial without depth rating, adorned with luminous hour markers and crowned by rare and early pencil hands. The present example of the reference 6204 bears all of the above attributes in splendid original condition, down to the original crystal and riveted Oyster bracelet stamped with the date code 2.53. Rarely has a more completely original example, with each component in a superb state of preservation, been offered publicly. From the perfectly intact luminous hour markers and hands, impressively crisp bezel, fully unpolished case, and even original crystal, this watch is truly a mid-century time capsule. Coming from the collection of an important European collector, it is sure to impress the most discerning of Rolex scholars and enthusiasts.
ROLEX
Ref. 6204 Submariner
80.
An important and extremely rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with helium escape valve, bracelet, made for COMEX, with guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1986
Reference No.
16660; inside caseback also stamped 16660
Movement No.
1’842’020
Case No.
9’304’638; repeated in inside caseback
Model Name
Sea-Dweller “COMEX”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped 93160, endlinks stamped 592, max length 230mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “J12” for December 1985
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed.
Estimate $40,000-80,000 €34,300-68,700 Accessories Accompanied by punched guarantee certificate, product literature, extra link and diver’s extension, hangtags, fitted presentation box, and outer packaging. Literature This watch was featured on page 112 of John Goldberger’s A Journey Into the Deep.
Rolex’s reference 16660 Sea-Dweller was first introduced in 1978 and remained in production for only a decade before being discontinued in 1988. Sought-after by collectors and aficionados worldwide, the model is considered to be a transitional link between “old school” production and modern.
The watch was originally devised bearing a matte dial with tritium lume plots applied directly on its surface, whereas later examples of the reference 16660 feature white gold-rimmed indexes and glossy dials, traits which will come to define the later production of Rolex diver’s watches. During the early days of deep-sea exploration, Rolex worked with a number of experts in the field, including the Marseillebased company, COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises) - a specialist diving company for the oil industry. COMEX and Rolex enjoyed a special relationship, and many watches were issued to their specialist divers over the course of decades, with their casebacks and dials marked “COMEX”. Like many “issued” Rolex watches, the inside case backs of COMEX watches would bear the full serial number (or in some instances the last 3 digits) corresponding to the number found between the lugs at 6 o’clock. The size and font of the engraving on the caseback would undergo stylistic changes as well. Given the intertwined history of COMEX and Rolex diver’s watches, the rarity of these models, the professional vocation of the piece sublimely exemplifying the core values of Rolex, and the dramatic aesthetic impact of the COMEX logo on the dial, these rare pieces reside at the top echelon of collectability for Rolex sports watches. Further escalating this example’s desirability, the present COMEX reference 16660 was featured in John Goldberger’s opus on Rolex diver’s watches, A Journey Into the Deep, offered with a full suite of accessories, including its punched guarantee with the code “119” for France/COMEX. A truly rare opportunity for the connoisseur, it is preserved in beautiful condition with a lovely patina to the tritium hour markers.
ROLEX
Ref. 16660 Sea-Dweller COMEX
81.
A very rare “double reference” stainless steel military diver’s wristwatch with rotating bezel, fixed bar lugs, and military engravings, with Henry Hudson letter from Rolex, made for the British Royal Navy
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1974
Reference No.
5513/5517
Case No.
Case No: 3’926’848, repeated inside the case back. Case back exterior further stamped with military issued numbers 0552/923-7697 and unit number 695/77, case back interior further stamped 1.72. Underside of lug further stamped 5517
Model Name
Submariner, “MilSub”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1520, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Nylon
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate $100,000-200,000 €85,800-172,000 Accessories Accompanied Rolex UK letter dated 27th January, 2009, signed by General Manager Henry Hudson, and confirming the watch was supplied to the Royal Navy in 1977 and destined to Devonport. British Royal Navy-issued stainless steel folding knife.
Rolex military-issued Submariners are amongst the most sought after of all vintage Rolex sports watches. Made upon special request for the British Ministry of Defense (MOD), MilSubs were worn during combat and on special missions. “MilSubs” feature wide sword-shaped hands for enhanced readability and an encircled “T” on the dial indicating the use of luminescent tritium. Another feature was a revolving bezel insert calibrated for 60 minutes, instead of the civilian
15-minute calibrated bezel. The Military of Defense also required a hack (stop seconds) feature and permanent, fixed spring bars welded to the lugs to prevent the fitting from failure. Another noticeable difference between the military and civilian models are their case back engravings – the present lot marked with the “0552” code for British Royal Navy, “9237697”, the NATO code, followed by the issue number, “695”, and year of issue, “77”. The inside case back on this watch is repeated with the serial number, which is correct for a special order watch. The present example, a double reference 5513/5517, displays reference 5513 between the lugs, and 5517 engraved under the lug, and is especially desirable as it is the rarest of the three MilSub references. This double reference 5513/5517 is made all the more rare with the “Henry Hudson Letter” from Rolex Bexley, UK which accompanies it. The letter, dated 2009, outlines to the owner that the watch was issued to the Royal Navy in 1977, and based on the military markings was destined for Devonport. These letters are very rare, and add to the authenticity of the watch, as well as provide an important reference for the history of the “MilSub”. The original military characteristics as issued in 1977 are all displayed on the present watch, making it a very impressive “full-spec” example. Consigned by an internationally-renowned Rolex collector, it is preserved in excellent overall condition and comes accompanied with a Royal Navy-issued folding knife of the period. The world of watch collecting is highlighted by rare watches that only appear at auction occasionally, and this is a rare opportunity to own one of the most iconic vintage timepieces for the discerning connoisseur.
ROLEX Ref. 5513/5517 MilSub “Double Reference Hudson Papers”
The 2021 New York Watch Auction Session 2 12 December 2021, 10am Lots 82–165
82.
Rolex — A highly coveted, attractive, and unworn stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with white dial, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2017
Reference No.
116500LN
Case No.
9Q0029G6
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $12,000-18,000 €10,300-15,400 Accessories Includes two extra links. Accompanied by original hangtag, seal, retailer-stamped guarantee card dated April 6th, 2018, leather wallet, warranty booklet, instruction manual, inner and outer presentation box.
Rolex excels in innovating incremental improvements above all things. When Rolex introduced the Cosmograph Daytona reference 116500 as the successor to the 116520 in 2016, collectors immediately seized upon the well-timed nod to the Daytona reference 6263 and 6265 “Big Red”. Similarly, the new reference 116500LN was offered with the choice of either a white or a black dial, with the metal bezel of the 116520 replaced by a scratch-resistant Cerachrom black bezel – a first for the model. Offered here alongside its black-dial mate (see lot 36), from the collection of the same original owner, the present reference 116500LN retains its full suite of accessories and bezel protector. It is offered in unworn condition, ready to enter the collection of another astute collector. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
83.
Rolex — A popular and attractive stainless steel dual-time wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2018
Reference No.
116710BLNR
Case No.
21N2N293
Model Name
GMT-Master II “Batman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3186, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $8,000-12,000 €6,900-10,300 Accessories Includes two extra links. Accompanied by original hangtag, seal, retailer-stamped guarantee card dated January 24th, 2018, leather wallet, warranty booklet, instruction manual, inner and outer presentation box.
“It’s not who I am underneath, but what I do that defines me.” – Batman, Batman Begins, 2005. Though the film Batman Begins premiered in 2005, it wasn’t until 2013 that Rolex’s seeming tribute to the Dark Knight of Gotham was released. Instantly captivated by the never-before-seen black and blue bezel color combination, collectors quickly anointed the 116710BLNR the “Batman”. One of the most popular offerings during its initial run, the watch was first discontinued in 2019 and replaced with a new reference 126710BLNR with Jubilee bracelet, nicknamed by collectors as the “Batgirl”. In 2021, Rolex re-introduced the Oyster bracelet to the 126710BLNR reference. Presented here in excellent condition and from the collection of the original owner, this example of the Batman retains all of its original accessories from when it was purchased in 2018. Attractive looks, storied heritage, and a catchy nickname make this watch the perfect everyday watch. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
84.
A brand new, very fine, and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date, hangtag, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2016
Reference No.
15202ST.OO.1240ST.01
Movement No.
AL 4458
Case No.
K07560
Model Name
Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra Thin
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $30,000-60,000 €25,700-51,500 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet warranty card, warranty booklet, instruction manual, inner and outer presentation boxes.
Though technically speaking, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ExtraThin reference 15202 is made of stainless steel, it’s virtually unobtanium. A years-long waitlist and highly selective allocation, combined with covetable aesthetics and utter refinement has propelled this watch into the stratosphere of desirability. Adding to this rarified status, Audemars Piguet decided 2021 would be the final year for the 15202, after ten years of production of this most recent generation. Originally launched in 1972 as the world’s most expensive stainless steel wristwatch housing the thinnest, full-rotor automatic movement (a mere 2.45mm thick – about the size of a Euro 50 cent coin) as the reference 5402, architecturally little has changed in the past half-century. The iconic octagonal profile, deep blue tapisserie dial, applied “AP” logo at 6 o’clock, and the ultra-thin caliber 2121 have endured the tides of stylistic change and emerged unscathed. The most obvious difference is the sapphire crystal back by which the wearer can admire the groundbreaking movement. The Royal Oak Jumbo is a true icon of horological design, brought to life by the talented pen of horological designer extraordinaire, Gerald Genta. Presented in brand new condition, from the original owner, and with its complete suite of accessories, the present 15202 even retains its protective stickers as delivered by the factory. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
AUDEMARS PIGUET
Ref. 15202ST Royal Oak Jumbo
85.
An impressive, highly desirable, and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee, and presentation box.
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 2018
Reference No.
26331BA
Case No.
K02242
Model Name
Royal Oak Chronograph
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2385, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, overall max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed.
Estimate $60,000-120,000 €51,500-103,000 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet International Warranty card, wooden presentation box, additional Audemars Piguet crocodile strap with 18K gold AP deployant clasp, product literature, and outer packaging.
In response the quartz crisis of the late 1960s and early 1970s, Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak wristwatch in 1972 as the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch with fully integrated bracelet. Designed by famed horologer Gerald Genta, it was a model that revolutionized luxury watches with
a monobloc case featuring an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal white gold screws. The model evolved over time with the introduction of complicated variants including the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, followed later by the first Royal Oak chronograph introduced in 1998. The reference 25860 housed the caliber 2385 based on the Frederic Piguet caliber 1185, with the new movement being the thinnest self-winding chronograph movement made at the time, permitting the classic thin profile of the original Royal Oak to be maintained. In 2008, Audemars Piguet replaced the reference 25860 with the introduction of the Royal Oak reference 26300 - a redesigned model featuring a three-piece case similar in construction to the brand’s Offshore collection. Today, the reference 26331BA, like the present watch is the luxurious and heavy modern iteration of the cult classic. The watch has all the appeal of the original, with the case enlarged slightly to a 41mm diameter. With its charismatic, blue Grande Tapisserie dial and yellow gold luminous markers, it is both an impressive and masculine chronograph wristwatch. The present example in yellow gold is in excellent, nearly new overall condition and was probably worn only a handful of times. Accompanied by the International Warranty and presentation box, this is a rare opportunity to own a model that is difficult to find and is highly sought after. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
AUDEMARS PIGUET Ref. 26331BA Royal Oak Chronograph
86.
An exquisite and versatile stainless steel perpetual calendar wristwatch with blue “Tuscan” dual, bracelet, additional dial, guarantee, and presentation box
AUDEMARS PIGUET Ref. 25820ST Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Tuscan”
The Royal Oak is a timepiece that set the benchmark on many fronts. Not only was it the very first luxury sports watch when launched in 1972, it was also the very first luxury sports watch featuring a complication. In 1982, exactly 10 years after its launch, the Royal Oak was presented with a perpetual calendar. Interestingly, the birth of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is the result of research undertaken by three brilliant watchmakers wishing to create an extra slim perpetual calendar mechanism built upon caliber 2120, which powered other iconic models such as Patek Philippe’s early Nautilus models, Vacheron Constantin’s 222 and the Royal Oak itself.
86.
An exquisite and versatile stainless steel perpetual calendar wristwatch with blue “Tuscan” dual, bracelet, additional dial, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 2005
Reference No.
25820ST.OO.0944ST.03
Movement No.
549’187
Case No.
F38156; No. 583
Model Name
Royal Oak Quantième Perpetuel
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2120/2802, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Royal Oak integrated bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel double folding clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, bracelet, and clasp signed.
Estimate $80,000-160,000 €68,700-137,000 Accessories Accompanied by additional white dial, setting pin, rotating presentation box, guarantee booklet, product literature, service receipt, service box, and hang tag.
Caliber 2120/2800 was born in 1977 making it the world’s slimmest perpetual calendar movement with a thickness of only 3.95mm. The subsequent years were used in finalizing the development and finally in 1982 the Royal Oak took the horological world by surprise, once again, with the launch of a model with perpetual calendar. The flawless, arresting, and dynamic “Tuscan” dial draws its name from the unique texture of the dial. When examined closely, one will find that no two dials are exactly alike. The fine and delicate ridges on the dial catch the light perfectly, and can change in tone pending on the angle. The present reference 25820ST was born with a white dial, however the consignor requested from Audemars Piguet a “Tuscan” dial be fitted to suit his aesthetic proclivities, to dramatic effect. Recently fully serviced by the manufacture, and complete with its full suite of accessories, this is essentially two watches in one, representing a superb example for the modern collector.
AUDEMARS PIGUET Ref. 25820ST Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Tuscan”
87.
A very elegant and inspired limited edition stainless steel wristwatch with 72-hour power reserve, guarantee, and presentation box, made for the 130th anniversary of Grand Seiko
Manufacturer
Grand Seiko
Year
2011
Reference No.
SBGW033
Movement No.
300’783
Case No.
No. 0357/1300
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 9S64A, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $2,000-4,000 • Σ €1,700-3,400 Accessories Accompanied by Grand Seiko Certificate, Guarantee dated 11 December 2011, mechanical instruction handbook, mechanical watches pamphlet, product literature, and fitted presentation box.
Introduced in 2011 to celebrate the 130th anniversary of Grand Seiko, the reference SBGW033 is one of 1,300 examples cased in stainless steel, with silvered hour and minute hands and a blued steel seconds hand. Alongside a platinum limited series of 130 pieces and 130 pieces of yellow gold, the trio were all housed in a handsome and bold 36mm case, powered by the 9S64 manually-wound caliber with a three-day power reserve, as a tribute to the very first Grand Seiko model, the reference 3180. The only other small upgrade from the original was a practical change of crystal material from Plexiglas to sapphire. Offered with no reserve, the present example is offered from the collection of the original owner, who worked tirelessly to obtain this piece from Japan as a foreigner. The case, movement, dial and hands are all executed and finished to the highest degree and quality - a defining characteristic of Grand Seiko. Furthermore, this watch is accompanied by its guarantee, additional Certificate, original hang tag, product literature, fitted presentation box and outer packaging. The quality and appearance of the dial is second to none, with a beautiful eggshell tone – the perfect daily wearer. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
GR AND SEIKO SBGW033 130th Anniversary Limited Edition
88.
A beautiful and sublime platinum wristwatch with porcelain dial, guarantee certificate, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Credor
Year
2016
Reference No.
GBLT999
Case No.
500001; TRI4-0AA0
Model Name
Eichi II
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 7R14, 41 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Credor deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by Certificate of Guarantee dated 26th February 2016, instruction manual, original receipt, inner fitted box, and outer presentation box.
Credor is the ultra-luxe, top-of-the-line name Seiko applies to its finest watches. And the very finest Credor watches are produced at the Micro Artist Studio, a tiny workshop at Seiko’s factory in Shiojiri, a city in central Japan. The work at the Micro Artist Studio is so artisanal that the dozen craftsmen employed there produce just around 30 watches per year. The quintessential Credor timepiece is the Eichi. Japanese for “wisdom”, Eichi is a perfectly simple, yet perfectly executed, wristwatch. Originally introduced in 2008 as the Eichi I, the model was gently revised and succeeded by the Eichi II in 2014. The dial completely pared down, and the case size increased,
these changes were a result of the craftsmen at the Micro Artist Studio coming together and refining the Eichi into an even better timepiece, reflective of their vision and skills. Conceived with almost no frills, yet every detail lavishly attended to, the Eichi II is one of the most understated, yet horologically compelling watches of our time. In fact, the watch is known in horological circles as the Japanese version of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity. There is no photographer or camera which can truly convey the depth and spirit of the porcelain dial. Displaying an incredibly well-finished Spring Drive movement, the Eichi II is arguably amongst the finest creations made by Seiko today. Every element, inside and out, is executed par excellence. The polished, bevelled edges of the movement bridges, or anglage, are incredibly well done - crisp, sharply defined, and mirror polished. And the porcelain dial – a pristine white thanks to its specially formulated porcelain - is handpainted by an artisan of the Micro Artist Studio who relies on a tiny brush and a microscope. So meticulous are these artisans that only one dial can be produced per day. The present watch is an early example of the Eichi II – the serial number indicates it was produced in 2015 - evidenced by the gilt fill in the engraving on the movement. Later versions have blue lettering. Only two dozen pieces are produced per year, and the waiting list currently extends beyond a year. Even the presentation box embodies Japanese craftsmanship and excellence to match the timepiece, as it is finished in urushi Japanese lacquer. This particular piece has been worn very few times by its previous owner, and with the greatest care, and is offered complete with all of its original accessories.
CREDOR
Eichi II
89.
A refined and exceptional honey gold limited edition wristwatch with moonphase, original guarantee and presentation box, made to commemorate the 165th anniversary of A. Lange & Söhne
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2010
Reference No.
212.050
Movement No.
No. 84’092
Case No.
194065; No. 210/265
Model Name
Homage to F.A. Lange 1815 Moonphase
Material
18K honey gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. L948.2, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K honey gold A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $25,000-50,000 Σ €21,500-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne International Guarantee dated October 23rd, 2010, guarantee booklet, product literature, setting pin, fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
Launched in 2010, Walter Lange introduced the F. A. Lange 1815 Moonphase as a tribute to both his great-grandfather Ferdinand Adolph Lange and as a celebration of the brand’s 165th anniversary. To mark the occasion, the firm produced three commemorative timepieces each using their proprietary 18 karat honey gold alloy. In addition to the 1815 Moonphase, which was produced in 265 pieces, A. Lange & Söhne also released a Tourbograph Pour le Mérite and a Lange 1 Tourbillon. The proprietary honey gold alloy is harder (over 300 on the Vickers hardness scale) and more durable, making it more resistant to scratching, while adding a warm hue to the timepiece. On the movement, the typical Glashütte stripes are replaced with a radial finish extending out from the center, matching the guilloché pattern on the dial side. In addition to the unusual gold alloy, A. Lange & Söhne engineers developed a highly precise moonphase gear train, which would require no correction to the moonphase for 1000 years as long as the watch is kept wound. The present example, number 210, is preserved in like-new condition and is replete with all its original accessories, including the guarantee dated October 23rd, 2010, setting pin, balance cock engraving authenticity paper, product literature, fitted presentation box and outer packaging. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Homage to F.A. Lange 1815 Moonphase Honey Gold
90.
A refined and exceptional limited edition honey gold wristwatch with tourbillon, hacking mechanism, guarantee, and presentation box, numbered 134 of 150
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2012
Reference No.
722.050
Movement No.
No. 82’079
Case No.
192122; No. 134/150
Model Name
Lange 1 Tourbillon “Honey Gold”
Material
18K honey gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. L961.2, 51 jewels (49 rubies and 2 diamonds)
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K honey gold A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $70,000-140,000 Σ €60,100-120,000 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne International Guarantee dated December 23rd, 2012, service booklet, product literature, fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
The present timepiece is part of the highly sought after trilogy of watches released by A. Lange & Söhne in 2010 to commemorate their founder Ferdinand Adolf Lange. A limited edition of 150 pieces, the present watch is number 134 of the series.
It is apparent to the beholder that the material employed for the case shines with a very unusual hue. Indeed, it is the new alloy “honey gold” developed by Lange which, beyond its enthralling color, also boasts increased hardness - and thus resistance to scratching - than the usual 18 karat gold alloy. The same material is used in other parts of the watch such as the hands and, most notably, the bridges of the movement as noticeable through the sapphire crystal case back. Further underlining the prestige of this limited edition, even the exquisitely decorated dial is made out of solid gold. The sheen of the honey gold alloy is shaped into a quintessential Lange model: the Lange 1. With its deceptively simple-looking, but in fact highly complex case - as noticeable when looking at the bevels of the lugs - the watch exudes class, strength and style in essentially Teutonic fashion. The architecture of the movement itself employs the typical Saxonian 3/4 plate, decorated with the telltale undulating Lange décor, and boasts a mind-blowing total of 51 jewels: 49 rubies and 2 diamond. By comparison, some grand complication Swiss movements feature a similar number of jewels to that reserved for this tourbillon wristwatch: this highlights the absolutely undisputed level of quality and finish Lange reserved for these exceptional timepieces. Coming from an important private collection and preserved in almost new condition, the present watch is offered for the first time at auction, complete with its original guarantee and presentation boxes. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Homage to F.A. Lange 1815 Tourbillon Honey Gold
91.
A fine and attractive stainless steel dual time wristwatch with date, center seconds, day and night indication, with Certificate of Origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2015
Reference No.
5164A-001
Movement No.
5’854’174
Case No.
6’029’856
Model Name
Aquanaut Travel Time
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 S C FUS, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
41.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $18,000-36,000 • €15,400-30,900 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, dated March 20, 2015, wooden presentation box, setting pin, leather envelop, product literature, additional Patek Philippe rubber strap, and outer packaging
Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut was released at Baselworld in 1997, with the reference 5065A “Jumbo”, a limited edition watch of 1,000 timepieces, sold in both stainless steel and 18K yellow gold. The watch had a sporty appeal, designed for more casual lifestyles – it was the first Patek Philippe wristwatch to be released with a rubber strap. Though drawing some design cues from the Nautilus, released 20 years earlier, the
Aquanaut can be considered a model line unto itself. The model quickly became a strong seller, and has been released in a variety of sizes and models with additional complications in the intervening years. The reference 5065 was produced from 1998 until 2006, when it was replaced by the reference 5167A. Similar to the evolution of other Patek Philippe collections, the Aquanaut reference 5164A Travel Time was released in 2011 as the first complicated Aquanaut. Featuring a practical dual time function indicated by an additional white skeleton hand, the dial also depicts both home and local day and night indication through two small apertures. Fitted with two pushers on the left side of the case band without breaking its symmetry, the pushers allow for easy adjustment to the local time. Retaining its iconic case design with a modern 41.5mm diameter, the comfort is further enhanced via its rubber strap. The reference was introduced in stainless steel first with a pink gold iteration launched later. The present example is offered at auction for the first time by the original owner, a restauranteur and avid watch collector who enjoys wearing his watches no matter the activity – while working or on drives through the country side. Accompanied by its Certificate of Origin, presentation box and additional uncut rubber strap, it’s a superb watch to be worn and enjoyed by its next owner. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5164A Aquanaut Travel Time
92.
A sporty, compelling, and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with date and bracelet, with Certificate of Origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2010
Reference No.
5980/1A-001
Movement No.
4’040’078
Case No.
4’482’091
Model Name
Nautilus Chronograph “Tiffany & Co.”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. CH 28-520C, 35 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
43.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, bracelet, and clasp signed; dial additionally signed Tiffany & Co.
Estimate $60,000-120,000 €51,500-103,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated 12 January 2010 from the Tiffany & Co. salon in San Francisco, California. Further accompanied by additional bracelet screws, setting pin, product literature, leather wallet, inner and outer presentation boxes.
Presented in 2006, reference 5980/1 was launched alongside its time-only sibling, the reference 5711, as the first-ever Nautilus model to bear a chronograph complication. Surprising
at first, it has since become a wildly successful reference, sought by collectors the world over. Powering the 5980 was Patek Philippe’s first in-house, self-winding chronograph, the caliber CH 28-520. To simplify the layout of the dial, Patek chose to combine all of the chronograph functions into one co-axial subdial for elapsed minutes and hours, similar to the annual calendar ref. 5960, an innovative and unusual time display for the manufacture. The rarity and desirability of this particular reference 5980 is found on the dial: the prestigious and elusive Tiffany & Co. signature. The enduring partnership between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. has resulted in some of the most coveted timepieces of the modern era. The earliest piece known from Patek Philippe to be sold through Tiffany & Co. was delivered on December 31st, 1852, a hunter case pendant watch with blue enamel guilloché and diamond stars on the front and back covers. Since the 1990s, Tiffany & Co. remains the only retailer that is still permitted to stamp their logo on the dial of Patek Philippe watches. The present Tiffany-signed example of the 5980 in stainless steel comes with all of its original accessories, including papers stamped from the Tiffany salon. It is presented in excellent, crisp condition and is an early example bearing the Geneva Seal, rather than the later-introduced Patek Philippe Seal on the movement. It is fresh to the auction market and one of the most sought-after watches on the market to date.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5980A Nautilus Chronograph “Tiffany & Co.”
93.
A fine semi-skeletonized white gold tonneau-shaped wristwatch with date and zero-reset center seconds, with warranty and presentation box
Manufacturer
Richard Mille
Year
Circa 2011
Reference No.
RM023
Movement No.
3067
Case No.
138
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. RM023, 32 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
White rubber Richard Mille
Clasp/Buckle
Titanium Richard Mille double deployant clasp
Dimensions
45mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $30,000-50,000 €25,700-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by Richard Mille warranty dated 28th November, 2011, fitted presentation box, leather portfolio, product literature, polish cloth and outer packaging.
Established in 1999, Richard Mille’s 21st century timepieces embody the concepts of innovation, artistry and architecture combined with cutting-edge materials from high performance mechanics like Formula 1 racing and traditional watchmaking. His revolutionary designs, technical breakthroughs and exceptional hand-finishing are sought after by discriminating collectors, and have positioned Richard Mille as one of the top luxury watch brands on the market today. Richard Mille’s collection includes complicated timepieces with tourbillons, G-force meters, torque indicators, and chronographs, to elegantly simple wristwatches like the RM023.
Based upon the success of the references RM007 and RM010, which were designed for reliability and wearability, the RM023, released in 2009, is an automatic semi-skeletonized wristwatch with date window, and zero reset center seconds. The unisex model evokes Mille’s dual principles of the masculine and feminine, affinity and opposition. It is a subtle and sublime timepiece blending technical knowledge and innovative design. The skeletonized movement allows the wearer to see the base plate and bridges, along with the revolutionary adjustable rotor geometry. The patented zeroreset mechanism allows for quick and easy synchronization to an official time signal. When the crown is extended, the movement stops allowing the center seconds hand to jump to the zero position. With the time set, once the crown is pushed in the movement instantaneously begins again. The sophisticated dial design features an asymmetrical layout with oversized roman numerals. The Mille team spent a year on case design to improve functionality, with each rough case produced from 202 separate machine operations, in order to form a complete concept incorporating case, dial and movement. Using analytical engineering methods, the team looked to Formula 1, where similar to chassis and engine developed in harmony, they sought to integrate the movement and case of the RM023 for performance and precision timing. The RM023 has a modern appeal and is an example of uncompromising quality and innovation seen by Richard Mille. The present model is in excellent overall condition, and complete with guarantee and presentation box.
RICHARD MILLE
RM023
94.
A massive, impressive, and bold limited edition titanium annual calendar flyback chronograph wristwatch with UTC display, integrated compass, locking crown, and regatta timer, accompanied by certificate, additional straps, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Richard Mille
Year
2015
Reference No.
RM60-01 Ti/103
Case No.
No. 02/50
Model Name
Automatic Flyback Chronograph Regatta Les Voiles de St. Barth
Material
Titanium
Calibre
Automatic, cal. RMAC2, 62 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Richard Mille rubber strap
Clasp/Buckle
Titanium
Dimensions
50mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap, and buckle signed.
Estimate $70,000-140,000 €60,100-120,000 Accessories Accompanied by Richard Mille warranty certificate dated October 2015, three additional brand new Richard Mille rubber straps, product literature, travel case, charger, and winding presentation box.
In the case of Richard Mille and the RM60-01, more is more, and the more rugged and complicated the watch, the more excitement it elicits. Combining a chronograph with an annual calendar function, rotatable bezel with compass, and waterproof case, the RM60 flouts the traditional design and layout of the regatta timer. It has everything one might need to sail forbidden seas and land on barbarous coasts, and then some. The titanium case is designed to endure the abuses of an active lifestyle, and the architects at Richard Mille made sure, with a locking mechanism for the crown and a tripartite case, that it would not easily be knocked off by a flying jib or loose sail. At 50mm diameter and 16.33mm in height, with a semi-skeletonized dial and aqua blue accents, it has a commanding presence. Les Voiles de Saint Barth is a five-day regatta hosted by Richard Mille the brand – and Richard Mille himself – since 2010, and the RM60 is a limited edition released each year since 2015 to commemorate the exciting race as well as being awarded to the winner. It takes place in the tropical blue waters of St. Barth’s in the part of the Caribbean known as the French West Indies. The RM60 hosts a panoply of functionality, including an annual calendar, chronograph, UTC indicator, rotatable compass bezel, variable locking crown – all powered by the automatic caliber RMAC2. It comes accompanied by its original warranty certificate, three additional Richard Mille rubber straps, product literature, and winding presentation box.
RICHARD MILLE RM60-01 “Les Voiles de St. Barth”
95.
A very rare and highly attractive limited edition skeletonized carbon dual time tourbillon wristwatch with torque, power reserve and function indicators, with Certificate of Authenticity, and presentation box
Richard Mille announced his first watch, the RM001 Tourbillon, in 2000 and has ever since remained true to three key concepts, which helped redefine modern horology: the best technical innovations, the best artistry and architecture, combined with the best traditional watchmaking craftsmanship. Mille sought to create wristwatches that were 21st century masterpieces, employing cutting edge materials and techniques, but remaining steeped in traditional Swiss watchmaking. Two industries influencing his designs were motorsports and the aerospace industry. The RM022 manually-wound dual time tourbillon is a feat of engineering and technology with a case created from carbon nanotubes injected in to a black polymer. The result is an extremely durable material and 200 times stronger than steel, while at the same time being very light. This material allows the case to better absorb impacts, and demonstrated Mille’s commitment to innovative techniques in horology. The case of this limited edition model measures 50mm x 40mm x 16.15mm - slightly larger and with more presence than the standard RM022 model.
RICHARD MILLE RM022 “Tourbillon Aerodyne”
95.
A very rare and highly attractive limited edition skeletonized carbon dual time tourbillon wristwatch with torque, power reserve and function indicators, with Certificate of Authenticity, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Richard Mille
Year
2012
Reference No.
RM022 AM CA
Movement No.
No. 082
Case No.
No. 04/05
Model Name
Tourbillon “Aerodyne” Dual Time Zone
Material
Composite nanofiber carbon, orthorhombic honeycombed titanium aluminide
Calibre
Manual, cal. RM022, 28 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber Richard Mille strap
Clasp/Buckle
Titanium Richard Mille double deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap, and buckle signed.
Estimate $250,000-500,000 €215,000-429,000 Accessories Accompanied by a Richard Mille Certificate of Authenticity, and presentation box.
The dial is futuristic as well made from a new alloy, orthorhombic titanium alluminides, which has been formed into a honeycomb structure. The material was tested by NASA for use on supersonic aircraft wings due to it resistance to high temperatures and torsion. Prominently displayed between the 3 and 4 o’clock hour markers, the function of the crown is changed through a coaxial button, similar to a gearbox, where the crown can be set to H (Hands) to adjust the time, N (Neutral) normal or unengaged, and W (Winding) for winding. The torque indicator runs between 0 and 65 with a red indicator, a reading below 53dNmm indicates the mainspring is too slack and over 65dNmm indicating excessive tension on the mainspring. Produced in only five examples, Richard Mille’s RM022 is a sleek aerodynamic timepiece that showcases the brand’s drive to create 21st century wristwatches with a contemporary aesthetic, made from some of the most futuristic materials available. The present lot is in like-new condition, and may have only been worn on one or two occasions.
RICHARD MILLE RM022 “Tourbillon Aerodyne”
96.
A very rare, fine, and attractive yellow gold single-button chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1999
Reference No.
2356B
Case No.
No. 0125 CC
Model Name
Tortue Monopoussoir CPCP
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 045 MC, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
34mm Width and 43mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $15,000-30,000 Σ €12,900-25,700
When the brand released the Cartier Privée Collection Paris (CPCP) in 1998, it offered an opportunity to update and modernize some of their most cherished and iconic designs. This extended to the Tortue model, first introduced by Cartier in 1912 and fitted with a European Watch and Clock movement. It was with great pride and fanfare that they reintroduced
the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir in 1999, alongside a flying tourbillon and time-only version. Named “tortue à pattes” or “turtle on legs”, it was a symbol of good fortune and longevity. The new watch was larger and contemporary, featuring the all-new chronograph caliber 045MC. This new movement is historic as it was co-developed by Vianney Halter, Denis Flageollet, and Francois-Paul Journe through their firm at the time, Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA). Together, they developed a single-button chronograph movement with a lever escapement and clutch system with a swivel pin. Essentially, this upgrade does away with the “jolt” or “skip” the user feels when re-setting the seconds hand and allows for a smoother re-set function. The CPCP only released watches from 1998 until 2008, when Cartier launched its Fine Watchmaking Collection, featuring in-house, highly complicated movements. Recently, the market has begun to acknowledge the sheer beauty and technical mastery of watches from the CPCP collection, in particular Monopouissoir models, and the current lot offers a rare opportunity to obtain this outstanding combination of horological innovation and classical aesthetics.
CARTIER CPCP Monopoussoir Chronograph
97.
A very fine and attractive tantalum wristwatch with chrome blue dial, Certificate of Authenticity, and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
Circa 2015
Case No.
890-CB
Model Name
Chronomètre Bleu
Material
Tantalum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1304, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
Tantalum F. P. Journe buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate $25,000-50,000 Σ €21,500-42,900
and produced in house. When the Chronomètre Souverain collection was introduced in 2005, it was Journe’s first wristwatch with a central time display. The parallel twin barrel movement was an ingenious means to split the pressure on the main gear providing for a more stable source of energy adding to the chronometric precision of the wristwatch. Even though the design was a tribute to traditional chronometers, the 2005 model had a subtly contemporary feel with large hour and minute hands, power reserve sector and seconds indications placed on the dial off center at the 7 and 8 o’clock. In 2009, Journe released the Chronomètre Bleu meant for a younger generation of collectors, and today is seen as a trend setter.
Accessories Accompanied by F. P. Journe Certificate of Authenticity dated December 1, 2015, fitted presentation box, November 25, 2020 F. P. Journe service receipt, leather card holder, USB key, product literature, F. P. Journe gloves and outer packaging.
The Tantalum metal case named for the “Torment of Tantalus” from Greek mythology is a rare, hard and lustrous metal that is highly corrosion-resistant. The grey-bluish hues of the case are complemented by the chrome blue dial that was designed without a power reserve indication, sporting a classic time only display with the eccentric seconds sub-dial. The Journe caliber 1304 is executed in pink gold and displays the high standard of execution and finish seen on all F.P. Journe wristwatches.
François-Paul Journe is a modern watchmaker who brings technical skill and innovation to horology with classically designed timepieces that have a contemporary aesthetic. His company was established in 1999, and follows the motto “Invenit et Fecit” or “[He] invented it” an indication of the brand’s commitment to timepieces that are fully designed
Offered for the first time at auction, this modern Chronomètre Bleu is complete with Certificate of Authenticity and presentation box. The watch was serviced by F. P. Journe in 2020 and is in lovely condition. Contemporary, elegant and classic, this timepiece is the perfect match between the genius of its creator and timeless design.
F.P. JOURNE
Chronomètre Bleu
98.
An unusual and compelling limited edition platinum wristwatch with date and month indicator, power reserve, and rotating zodiac display, with certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2006
Case No.
095/150-Z
Model Name
Octa Zodiaque
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1300, 28 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $60,000-120,000 Σ €51,500-103,000 Accessories Accompanied by original Certificate and warranty dated 28 June 2006, original purchase receipt, additional exotic strap, polishing cloth, instruction manual, inner and outer presentation boxes.
One of the most unusual of Francois-Paul Journe’s creations, the Octa Zodiaque was produced in a limited series of 150 pieces between 2004 and 2007. Cased in platinum with the rare brass Octa automatic movement, it was the first 40mm Journe to have central hour and minute hands. It still bears the characteristic power reserve indicator, oversized date display, and subsidiary seconds typical and beloved of the Octa series. The outer portion with the month and zodiac sign rotates
incrementally each day, so that the month and corresponding zodiac sign is always indicated at the twelve o’clock position. Interestingly, the months are displayed in Latin, while the zodiac signs are in English. While some of us may consider astrology as a frivolous pasttime, the signs of the zodiac have been displayed on the most prestigious and complicated watches of the 19th, 20th, and 21st centuries, including Patek Philippe’s Caliber 89. Modern complicated wristwatches rarely, if ever, display the signs of the zodiac, making this reference even more unique across the broader catalogue of contemporary wristwatches. François-Paul Journe himself was born on 22 March 1957 in Marseilles, France, making him an Aries Sun, Cancer Rising, and Sagittarius Moon. Aries are known to be courageous, competitive, decisive, independent, and oftentimes, impulsive. One popular astrology website characterizes them as “pushing things forward with energy and enthusiasm and persever[ing] through anything”. Aries is a fire sign, ruled by Mars, the red planet named for the god of war. Notable Aries include Leonardo da Vinci, Vincent van Gogh, Maya Angelou, Elton John, and Robert Downey, Jr. The present Octa Zodiaque is offered in excellent overall condition, from a prestigious original owner collection, accompanied by all of its original accessories. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
F.P. JOURNE Octa Zodiaque
99.
An early, extremely well-preserved, and attractive platinum chronometer wristwatch with double escapement, Certificate of Authenticity and presentation box
F.P. JOURNE
Chronomètre à Résonance “Brass Movement”
Since its official launch in 2000, F. P. Journe’s Resonance has become one of contemporary horology’s most iconic pieces, inspired by the work of the great 18th century watchmaker, Antide Janvier. In 1983, Journe sought to emulate the legendary Janvier and created a pocket-watch using the resonance phenomenon. He followed this exceptional pocket watch 16 years later with a wristwatch – and the Chronomètre à Résonance was born. It was the world’s first wristwatch to use the resonance phenomenon whereby the movement is composed of two independent balances, alternatively serving as an “exciter” and “resonator”. When in motion, the balances beat in opposition, naturally evening out each other’s discrepancies and thus permitting greater accuracy – the resonance phenomenon. The present model in platinum with a superb white gold dial eloquently embodies Journe’s inimitable style both in terms of aesthetics and technical mastery. Made from 2000 to 2005, the first generation Chronomètre à Resonance, like the present lot, feature rhodium-plated brass movements and a 38mm case. The second generation would introduce rose gold movements to replace brass, and would predominantly be housed in larger, 40mm cases. The present lot offers the rare opportunity of obtaining a historically important timepiece that has become one of the most important horological breakthroughs of the past decades.
99.
An early, extremely well-preserved, and attractive platinum chronometer wristwatch with double escapement, Certificate of Authenticity and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
Circa 2002
Case No.
No. 195-02R
Model Name
Chronomètre A Resonance
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1499, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum F. P. Journe buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and buckle signed
Estimate $120,000-240,000 Σ €103,000-206,000 Accessories Accompanied by F. P. Journe undated Certificate of Authenticity, wooden presentation box, product literature and outer packaging.
Fresh to the market, the present Chronomètre A Resonance is contemporary and elegant exuding beauty and sophistication with its platinum case and shimmering white gold dial. The watch is in extremely well-preserved condition showing very few signs of careful wear. The case is sharp, with perfectly crisp hallmarks and engravings on its caseback – certainly unpolished in our view. Furthermore, it is complete, accompanied with its original guarantee and multi-level wooden presentation box. It is a timepiece that is a perfect match between the genius of its creator, its timeless design, and technical excellence – and a trophy watch for the collector of independent watches.
F.P. JOURNE
Chronomètre à Résonance “Brass Movement”
100.
An extraordinarily rare, inventive, and historically important silver and pink gold limited edition tourbillon wristwatch with hinged caseback, certificate, and presentation box
Museum quality reference books, countless scholarly articles, and many auction footnotes have been written for the grand triumvirate of watchmaking: Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet, along with such legends as Breguet and modern master George Daniels. Gaining increasing reverence, particularly in the past few years, is Montres Journe, the namesake manufacture of the inimitable François-Paul Journe, one of the most prominent living watchmakers of our time. Journe’s interpretations of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s masterful inventions, the tourbillon and the resonance (though, technically speaking, Breguet would actually create a double pendulum / double escapement watch based on the invention of Janvier Antide), have catapulted his watches into the most esteemed and venerable collections worldwide. In 1977, after finishing his studies at watchmaking school, a young François-Paul Journe apprenticed to his uncle Michel assisting with the repair and restoration of antique clocks. During this time he was exposed to some of the greatest horological inventions: tourbillons, minute repeaters, and the grand and petite Sonnerie . It’s not easy to imagine now that they are so ubiquitous, but at the time, no modern watchmaker was building tourbillons other than the great George Daniels (a mentor and later friend of François-Paul Journe). Inspired by these ancient masters of horology, Journe began the painstaking and difficult task of building his own tourbillon pocket watch, using his uncle’s workshop and tools during the weekend, and he finally completed it at the beginning of 1983.
F.P. JOURNE
T-30 Anniversary Tourbillon
100.
An extraordinarily rare, inventive, and historically important silver and pink gold limited edition tourbillon wristwatch with hinged caseback, certificate, and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2014
Reference No.
T30
Case No.
97/99
Model Name
Tourbillon Anniversaire Historique
Material
Silver and 18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1412, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold and silver F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap, and buckle signed.
Estimate $100,000-200,000 €85,800-172,000 Accessories Accompanied by original certificate indicating the sale of this piece on 26th April 2014 at Montres Journe New York, a signed letter from F.P. Journe to the owner, informational booklet, polishing cloth, three additional straps, fitted presentation box, and outer box.
To celebrate thirty years since this remarkable feat, Journe decided to produce ninety-nine examples of a wristwatch wholly inspired by his first tourbillon pocket watch. This Tourbillon Anniversaire Historique, numbered 97 of 99, is one of the final pieces to be completed. The layout of the dial is almost exactly the same as the original pocket watch, only shrunk to fit a 40mm case. To recreate the pocket watch dial, Journe employed the technique of engraving the dial and then filling the engravings with lacquer, something usually associated with the finest vintage wristwatches and pocket watches. The unorthodox combination of 18K rose gold and
silver – with the former used for the pieces of the watch that would receive more wear, such as the bezel, caseback band, and crown, and the latter used for the majority of the case including the lugs and the guilloche hunter caseback. A brilliant, radiating guilloche pattern encircles the number of the watch on the outside of the hunter caseback. An unusual metal for use in a wristwatch, silver is rarely used in the present day as it tarnishes easily. In this instance, the silver used in the case was not plated in any way to protect against the elements, and so each example of the T30 has developed its own unique patina. The elegant tourbillon movement, rendered in gilt brass, is more highly finished than typical Journe watches, with hand finishing used on elements of the tourbillon cage, and elegant blue steel slotted screws. The entire watch evokes a bygone era of watchmaking, of the most historically significant timepieces created by Breguet. This example of the Tourbillon Anniversaire Historique is the first ever to be offered by Phillips, and we are honored to be entrusted with its sale. It has been consigned by the original owner, the recipient of a touching personal note written by Mr. Journe himself. Journe writes, “This watch refers to the period during which I was working alone without knowing that one day I would have the pleasure of sharing with you my passion.” And indeed, Mr. Journe’s passion is now celebrated the world over. Number 97 of the T30 is further accompanied by its original certificate, informational booklet, an additional three straps, and both inner and outer boxes. A stunning and well-engineered watch, historically important for both the brand and horology itself, the present lot is sure to enchant the most astute of collectors. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
F.P. JOURNE
T-30 Anniversary Tourbillon
101.
An exceptional, important, and extremely rare pink gold wristwatch with subsidiary seconds, co-axial escapement, and engine-turned dial, numbered 1, accompanied by original certificate and presentation box
Roger Smith is more than a master watchmaker. He is a man of resilience, focus and drive. At the age of 16, Smith’s parents sent him to watchmaking school in Manchester where he graduated in 1989 and won the British Horological Institute’s Bronze medal for the most outstanding student in his final year. It was around that time that he met George Daniels, an encounter that would shape his life as a watchmaker. After graduation, Smith joined TAG Heuer in the repairs department and contacted Daniels, offering his apprenticeship. A dry refusal led Smith to create his first entirely hand-made pocket watch. He set up his workshop in his parents’ garage, quit his job at TAG Heuer and set out to create a tourbillon pocket watch with detent escapement. The watch took a year to finish but Daniels did not find it to be good enough. Smith went back to his workbench and spent another 5 years working on a tourbillon pocket watch with a perpetual calendar. Upon completion he went to see Daniels, who asked Smith where the case, dial, movement etc. were made. When Smith replied they were made by him, Daniels turned to him with these resounding words “congratulations, you are now a watchmaker”.
ROGER SMITH
Series 1 “Number One”
101.
An exceptional, important, and extremely rare pink gold wristwatch with subsidiary seconds, co-axial escapement, and engine-turned dial, numbered 1, accompanied by original certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Roger Smith
Year
2018
Movement No.
S1-N.01
Case No.
No. 01
Model Name
Series 1
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, in-house caliber single wheel co-axial escapement, 28 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Roger Smith pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $120,000-240,000 Σ €103,000-206,000 Accessories Accompanied by the original certificate and fitted presentation box.
In 1998, Smith joined Daniels as an apprentice to work on the Millennium series of wristwatches. Once the Millennium series was completed, in 2001, Smith decided to set out on his own and create his own wristwatch. He set up a stand-alone workshop alongside Daniels’ on the Isle of Man in the Irish Sea and set to work. The Series 1 was born, heavily inspired by Daniels’ work, first in a rectangular case inspired by the thenrecently released Arkade by A. Lange & Söhne. After the production of the rectangular Series 1 followed the Series 2, a round wristwatch with a power reserve display.
In 2013, Roger Smith was invited to be part of the GREAT Britain campaign, showcasing the splendor and innovation of contemporary British watchmaking. He created a unique piece “The GREAT Britain” in platinum, with an off-centered Union Jack motif, hand-finished and highly three-dimensional. Following this triumph, Smith says he was “inundated with requests for a time-only piece.” And thus, the new Series 1 was born, displaying only the hours, minutes, and seconds via a subsidiary seconds dial. It was meant to be the quintessential gentleman’s watch, with all of the refinement, experience, and heritage of three hundred years of British watchmaking distilled into a single 38 or 40mm round timepiece – all painstakingly hand-built and hand-finished by Roger Smith and his few trusted colleagues. The present Series 1 is also, remarkably number 1, hence, the very first produced, assembled, and likely delivered of this new generation of Series 1. It comes directly from the collection of the original owner, a staunch champion of British watchmaking. It measures 40mm in diameter, rendered in 18K pink gold, with Roger Smith’s characteristic hand-engraved dial and unique elongated spade-tipped hands. The movement is finished in a classical English style, with frosted and gilded plates, a floral scroll motif hand-engraved on the barrel bridge and balance cock, and of course, Smith’s refined and honed Daniels co-axial escapement. It is offered here in excellent condition, having been carefully worn and enjoyed, and accompanied with its original paperwork from Roger Smith. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
ROGER SMITH
Series 1 “Number One”
102.
A spectacular and historically important yellow gold twin barrel one minute tourbillon pocket watch with Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement and retrograde hour hand, with handwritten George Daniels letter, presentation box, and double-ended key, handmade for Edward Hornby
GEORGE DANIELS The Edward Hornby George Daniels Tourbillon Pocket Watch
Phillips is deeply honoured to offer this spectacular George Daniels one minute tourbillon pocket watch with Earnshaw’s spring detent chronometer escapement. Belonging to the rare, very first series of eight pocket watches fully handmade by Daniels for collectors between the years 1969 and 1974, they demonstrate his superlative genius and innovation, creating timepieces cherished for their elegance, harmony, and uniqueness. Measuring an impressive 62mm in diameter, the “Edward Hornby” is both an artistic and technical masterpiece. Created by the British watchmaker widely considered as among the greatest of the 20th century, its unmatched quality, stunning aesthetics, and commanding size are simply breathtaking. George Daniels’ path to watchmaking greatness would begin with an encounter with a pocket watch at the tender age of five – and they held his focus for the remainder of his life. His horological career began as a trade watch repairer, a skill that was self-taught. In his autobiography, “All in Good Time”, Daniels’ wrote of that period “I resolved never again, except by force of law, to follow a path that did not appeal to me“. And he never did. Shortly after WWII, Daniels set up his own workshop repairing watches and, in his spare time, restoring automobiles for himself. However, a turning point in his life came in 1960 when he met Cecil ‘Sam’ Clutton. Sam was, like George, a connoisseur of vintage cars, but he was also a man with an impressive antique watch collection, and with many connections to other horological collectors and institutions. These connections provided superb watches, by some of the greatest past makers, for Daniels to study and work on.
102.
A spectacular and historically important yellow gold twin barrel one minute tourbillon pocket watch with Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement and retrograde hour hand, with handwritten George Daniels letter, presentation box, and double-ended key, handmade for Edward Hornby
A Master of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, Daniels studied watchmaking’s traditional past, seeking to improve upon it, and advancing precision timekeeping. He studied the 18th/19th century master Abraham-Louis Breguet, who Daniels said was his single greatest influence, and over time, he became a leading authority on Breguet. The sublime, eternally classic dials found on Breguet’s pocket watches are mirrored in the work by Daniels, as well as the exquisite quality of each component within his movements. In the late 1960s, Daniels began work on a series of eight one-minute tourbillon pocket watches. The first was made in 1969 for his friend Cecil Clutton, with a pivoted detent chronometer tourbillon with retrograde hour indication, and unique gold and silver case. These commissions were a turning point in his career and as his earliest timepieces, are wonderful representations of the excellence of his workmanship and commitment to achieving the best possible. Closely examining their details, each of these watches exhibit unique features that illustrate how Daniels continued to improve and refine his work. The watches each have gold cases with silvered, engine-turned dials and hand-made blued steel hands, and while the Clutton featured a pivoted detent escapement, the remainder used Earnshaw’s spring detent escapement in the tourbillon carriage. Watch number 7, the “Engel” is the only example with an “up-and-down” indication, and watch number 8, the “Saunders” features an “S” counterpoise on the seconds hands.
The elegant form, simplicity, balance, and legibility of these early pieces were to become the distinctive characteristics of the Daniels oeuvre. For Daniels, “watches should provide historical, technical, intellectual, aesthetic, amusing and useful qualities.” A mantra he applied to all his creations, and one he frequently repeated when discussing his watches and explaining his goals. The case, dial and movements of his watches were to be instantly recognizable as a Daniels. Each was to be hand-made to the highest standards and the movements were to incorporate interesting and innovative mechanical features. Best known for inventing the Daniels’ co-axial escapement in 1974, it was the most important technical advancement to precision, mechanical timekeeping in 250 years. So revolutionary was this escapement, Omega began fitting their high grade wristwatches with the co-axial escapement in 1999, and today it is now used in virtually all of the brand’s mechanical models. Edward Hornby was a lawyer and watch collector who began his collection in the 1930s. Daniels and Hornby met through Sam Clutton in the 1960s, and were both attracted to the work of Breguet. Hornby’s first watch purchase was a Breguet timepiece that he selected for its aesthetic quality. Hornby would soon purchase the present lot directly from Daniels, today known as “The Hornby”, and it is the fourth watch Daniels ever made. Fitted with the same dial design as his previous three watches, The Hornby was delivered in 1971. Always striving for improvements, for this fourth watch, Daniels lengthened and changed the proportions of the steel bridge over the tourbillon to further refine the aesthetic of the movement. “The Hornby” is a tour de force in watchmaking. Every part is created by hand with the exception of the balance spring and crystal, and is masterfully finished to a degree rarely seen in any other timepiece. Featuring a prominent retrograde hour indicator, the Hornby’s sublime, silvered dial is embellished with three distinct, hand-engine-turned patterns. An outer, eccentric satin-finished ring indicates the minutes, with a slim, overlapping ring indicating the constant seconds. Every 12 hours, at 1 o’clock, the hand- made hour hand with its distinctive pointed triangle tip, flies back along the satinfinished hour sector, instantaneously returning to the left side to indicate the correct hour. Not only graced with stunning aesthetics, The Hornby is an exceptionally accurate, precision timekeeper. Explaining his ownership experience, Edward Hornby would recount an accuracy test he conducted over eight months against a quartz watch. Whereas the quartz watch’s battery died within this timeframe, the Daniels watch averaged a daily rate variation of just 0 to 3 seconds – a remarkable performance for any mechanical watch.
GEORGE DANIELS The Edward Hornby George Daniels Tourbillon Pocket Watch
102.
A spectacular and historically important yellow gold twin barrel one minute tourbillon pocket watch with Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement and retrograde hour hand, with handwritten George Daniels letter, presentation box, and double-ended key, handmade for Edward Hornby
Manufacturer
George Daniels
Year
1971
Movement No.
Engraved George Daniels, London, e. m. h.
Model Name
The Edward Hornby Tourbillon Pocket Watch
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Key-wound, Earnshaw spring detent chronometer
1971 – a testament to Daniels’ impeccable taste, and his visionary design approach. Through his watches and publications, particularly “Watchmaking”, he has and continues to inspire countless international independent watchmakers to follow their dreams and create their own watches and ethos. His works of art stand as a tribute to those who excelled in the past, and to those who will follow in his path.
escapement Dimensions
62mm Diameter
Signed
Dial and movement signed Daniels London, 18k gold case with London hallmarks for 1970, and casemakers initials GD
Provenance Made for and sold to Edward Hornby, Jan 1st 1971 Sotheby’s London, June 22nd, 1999, Lot 74 Sotheby’s London, July 6th, 2017, The Celebration of the English Watch, Part IV’ Estimate $600,000-1,200,000 €515,000-1,030,000 Accessories Accompanied by a hand written letter from George Daniels dated 1st January, 1971, red leather fitted George Daniels presentation box, and gold graduated double-link chain with gold and blued steel double-ended key Literature Sotheby’s, George Daniels Retrospective Exhibition Catalogue, 2006, pp. 28-29 Terence Camerer Cuss, The English Watch 1585-1975, 2009, pp. 452-452, pl. 295 George Daniels, All in Good Time, Reflections of a Watchmaker, 2013, pp 95-96, 221, pl. 31, pp. 95-96, and 221 Michael Clerizo, George Daniels, A Master Watchmaker & His Art, 2015, pp 64-65 George Daniels, The Practical Watch Escapement, 2016, color plate Alexander Barter, The Watch A Twentieth-Century Style History, 2019, p. 248-249
So pleased with his first Daniels watch, Hornby would later ask George for a second pocket watch, with a double wheel chronometer escapement, thermometer and up- and-down indication, delivered in 1977, and now in a private collection. There is a simplicity of design to Daniel’s watches that are ethereal and classic. His watches offer insight in to the history of traditional watchmaking, as well as its future. The influence of George Daniels as a pioneer, and the founding father of modern independent watchmaking, cannot be emphasized enough. With its timeless design, 50 years after its creation, The Hornby looks as modern and beautiful today as it did in
For passionate enthusiasts and collectors, a George Daniels timepiece is the pinnacle of watch collecting. Only 24 pocket watches were made by Daniels during his lifetime, in addition to two completely hand-made wristwatches. Accordingly, the rarity and importance of any George Daniels watch cannot be overstated. Accompanied with its original fitted box, handwritten and signed letter, gold chain and winding key, The Hornby, as one of Daniels’ earliest tourbillon watches, represents a rare opportunity to obtain a hand-made creation by one of the greatest watchmakers of all time. Its impressive size, superb aesthetics, immaculate condition, completeness, and its rarity make this a trophy watch for the most discerning connoisseur.
GEORGE DANIELS The Edward Hornby George Daniels Tourbillon Pocket Watch
102.
A spectacular and historically important yellow gold twin barrel one minute tourbillon pocket watch with Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement and retrograde hour hand, with handwritten George Daniels letter, presentation box, and double-ended key, handmade for Edward Hornby
CATALOGUE RAISONNÉ
Pocket Watches The Clutton (private collection) – Hallmarked and sold 1969 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds. Pivoted detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Marryat (private collection) – Hallmarked 1969, sold 1970 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds. Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Bloomfield (private collection) – Hallmarked 1969, sold 1970 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds. Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Hornby (private collection, present watch) – Hallmarked 1970, sold 1971 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds. Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Elsom I (private collection) – Hallmarked 1970, sold 1970 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds. Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Sarah Jane (made for his daughter, now in a private collection) – Hallmarked 1970 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds. Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Engel (private collection) – Hallmarked 1973, sold 1973 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve display. Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Saunders (private collection) – Hallmarked 1973, sold 1973 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds. Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Elsom II (private collection) – Hallmarked 1975, sold 1975 Central hours and minutes, seconds, power reserve and equation of time displays, Daniels’ spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon, 15 seconds remontoire, recessed balance, annual calendar disc. Key-wound The Atwood (private collection) – Hallmarked 1975, sold 1976 Eccentric hours and minutes on lower section of dial sub seconds at 12 o’clock, power reserve display, Daniels Independent double wheel escapement, seconds zero reset mechanism. Key-wound.
The Clutton II (British Museum) – Hallmarked 1976, sold 1977 Eccentric hours and minutes on lower section of dial, sub seconds at 12 o’clock, Daniels Independent double wheel escapement, seconds zero reset mechanism. Key-wound The Elsom III (private collection) – Hallmarked 1976, sold 1977 Eccentric hours and minutes on lower section of dial, sub seconds at 12 o’clock, thermometer and power reserve displays, Daniels Independent double wheel escapement, seconds zero reset mechanism. Key-wound The Hornby II (private collection) – Hallmarked 1977, sold 1977 Eccentric hours and minutes on lower section of dial, sub seconds at 12 o’clock, thermometer and power reserve displays, Daniels Independent double wheel escapement, seconds zero reset mechanism. Key-wound The Beyer (Beyer Museum, Zurich) – Hallmarked 1977, sold 1978 Eccentric hours and minutes on lower section of dial, sub seconds at 12 o’clock, thermometer and power reserve displays, Daniels Independent double wheel escapement, recessed balance, seconds zero reset mechanism. Key-wound The Space Traveller I (private collection) – sold 1982 Mean-solar and sidereal time, 2 x seconds, annual calendar, age and phase of the moon phase, equation of time display, Daniels Independent double wheel escapement, seconds zero reset mechanism. Key-wound The Space Traveller II (Retained by the maker, now private collection) – 1983 Mean-solar and sidereal time, 2 x seconds, annual calendar, age and phase of the moon phase, equation of time sector, center seconds chronograph for either mean-solar or sidereal time, Daniels Independent double wheel escapement, zero reset mechanism. Key-wound The Martin (private collection) – Hallmarked 1979, sold 1983 Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve display, Daniels co-axial escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Signature (private collection) – Hallmarked 1984 Hours, minutes, seconds, Daniels co-axial escapement, 1-minute edge-driven tourbillon. Daniels keyless winding The Beyer II (Beyer Museum, Zurich) – Hallmarked 1986, sold 1986 Hours, minutes, seconds, Daniels co-axial escapement, 1-minute edge-driven tourbillon. Daniels keyless winding
GEORGE DANIELS The Edward Hornby George Daniels Tourbillon Pocket Watch
The Nall-Cain (on loan to the Clockmakers’ Company Museum, London courtesy of the George Daniels Educational Trust) – Hallmarked 1983, sold 1986 Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve and thermometer displays, Daniels slim co-axial escapement, independent dead- beat seconds mechanism. Daniels keyless winding The Bobinet (a royal collection) – Hallmarked 1983, sold 1986 Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve display, Daniels slim co-axial escapement, independent dead- beat seconds mechanism. Daniels keyless winding The Grand Complication (Retained by the maker, now private collection) – Retained by the maker, 1987 Hours, minutes, seconds, instantaneous retrograde perpetual calendar, moon phase, thermometer, power reserve and equation of time displays, annual calendar, minute repeater, Daniels slim co-axial escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Daniels keyless winding The Four-Minute Tourbillon (Retained by the maker, now private collection) – hallmarked 1994 Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve display, Daniels compact chronograph with minute recording, Daniels co-axial escapement, four-minute tourbillon. Daniels keyless winding The Unfinished Movement (on loan to the Clockmakers’ Company Museum, London, courtesy of the George Daniels Educational Trust) – 2011 1-minute tourbillon, Daniels Co-axial escapement, 15-second remontoire. Daniels keyless winding
Wristwatches Wristwatch I – The Four-Minute Tourbillon (Retained by the maker, now private collection) – 1991 Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve display, Daniels compact chronograph with minute recording, Daniels slim co-axial escapement, four-minute tourbillon. Wristwatch II – The Spring Case (private collection) – 1992 Hinged Double-dialed sprung case, hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve on one dial; and day, date and visible tourbillon on the reverse dial. Daniels slim co-axial escapement, 1-minute tourbillon.
We would like to thank David Newman of The George Daniels Educational Trust, and Richard Stenning of Charles Frodsham & Co. for their precious input, photos and sketches.
102.
A spectacular and historically important yellow gold twin barrel one minute tourbillon pocket watch with Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement and retrograde hour hand, with handwritten George Daniels letter, presentation box, and double-ended key, handmade for Edward Hornby
GEORGE DANIELS The Edward Hornby George Daniels Tourbillon Pocket Watch
103.
An extravagant and dazzling yellow gold and gem-set bracelet watch with pavé diamond dial, carved emeralds and rubies, and sapphires
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1980s
Reference No.
2947
Case No.
649667 ; 8057912 ; BP3550
Model Name
Baignoire Joallierie “Tutti Frutti”
Material
18K yellow gold, diamonds, sapphires, carved emeralds, and carved rubies.
Calibre
Quartz
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold, sapphire, diamond, carved emerald and ruby-set bracelet, max length approx. 172mm, marked HPS1456
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold double deployant clasp
Dimensions
23mm Diameter
Signed
Case, bracelet, and clasp signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 €17,200-34,300
The DNA of Cartier is made up of many strands of jewelry and watchmaking design excellence: the Crash, the Tank, the Juste Un Clou, the LOVE bracelet, and the Panthère to name a few. Just as instantly identifiable as inimitably Cartier is the Tutti Frutti, a dazzling display of carved gems directly inspired by the obsession with the exotic that flourished during the Art
Deco period. Typically crafted as spectacular gem-studded bracelets of carved rubies, sapphires, emeralds, studded with diamonds, and accented with black enamel, Cartier-signed vintage Tutti Frutti bracelets have been known to fetch millions of dollars at auction. It is no wonder that Cartier further elaborated on this lavish design heritage in the 1970s and 1980s with a line of watches that fully celebrated the unique character of Tutti Frutti. Most of the examples are relatively more restrained, with only a few carved gems and diamonds set into the case and fitted with a strap, but some, like the present lot, are adorned fully with a spectacular treatment of gem-setting and embellishment. To the best of our knowledge, the exact same watch has not appeared publicly, making this piece potentially unique. The dial is set with pavé diamonds, as is the bezel, and the hour markers are alternating rubies and emeralds. The crown is set with a cabochon diamond. The bracelet is set with rows of sapphires, carved emeralds and rubies in a flower motif, and then rows of diamonds repeated throughout the gold bracelet. Our research shows only two other similar pieces have appeared; one in white gold and one in yellow gold in a similar configuration but with a sapphire cabochon crown instead of a diamond cabochon crown, rows of emeralds instead of rows of sapphires, and carved rubies only. The present Cartier Baignoire Joallierie “Tutti Frutti” is offered in excellent condition, having hardly ever been worn.
CARTIER
“Tutti Frutti” Baignoire
104.
An appealing and charming white gold and diamond-set world time wristwatch with Certificate of Origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2013
Reference No.
7130G-001
Movement No.
5’674’943
Case No.
4’593’994
Model Name
World Time
Material
18K white gold and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240 HU, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold and diamond Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $25,000-50,000 Σ €21,500-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated January 25th 2013, product literature, leather envelope, fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
One can frame the Patek Philippe 7130 World Time as either the smaller, more feminine companion to the other 18 karat white gold World Time wristwatch with guilloche dial in the brand’s current production lineup, the reference 5230G, or as a direct successor to the 5110G in production from 2000 to 2006. All three share the ultra-thin caliber 240 HU with micro-rotor, allowing the wearer to view the time simultaneously in 24 time zones. With only one millimeter in difference between their case diameters, the 7130G mirrors the 5110G more closely in wearability, while aligning with the 5230G in aesthetics. While the day and night rotating disc on the 5110 is a restrained blue and gray, the more modern 7130 inspires with a copper and mahogany ring, a bold choice for Patek Philippe in a white gold case as they usually choose warm tones for their pink gold cases. Set against the diamond bezel, and complemented by the factory shiny dark brown alligator strap, the textures and colors of the dial complement the usefulness and wearability of the watch. Now discontinued and preserved in excellent condition, the present 7130G would make a fantastic companion for those just beginning to explore the world’s twenty-four time zones again – and beyond.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 7130G World Time
105.
A very fine and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with presentation box
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1960
Movement No.
2181333
Case No.
1680
Accessories Accompanied by red leather Cartier presentation box
Cartier wristwatches are synonymous with elegance, grace, and classic design, and their iconic Tank Normale is the timepiece, which for over a century has been at the forefront of Cartier’s branding. Louis-Joseph Cartier introduced the Tank in 1917 with a ground-breaking aesthetic believed to be inspired by the top view of the very first Renault military tank vehicle deployed during World War I. A prototype Tank watch was given to General John J. Pershing of the American Expeditionary Forces in Europe, which cemented the design story. The Tank was appreciated for its bold square case, stretched rectangular sides, and clean, legible dial with Roman numerals. The watch has been associated with politicians, movie stars, and fashionistas with one of the most famous Tanks owned and worn by Jackie Kennedy. The design evolved over the decades and is known today for other classic vintage variations from the Tank Cintrée, Chinoises, Tank à Guichets, Basculante, and Asymétrique, to the modern Tank Américaine and Anglaise.
The wristwatch became a fashionable and chic accessory at the turn of the 20th century, and famed retailer Cartier was at the forefront bringing a modern aesthetic to the world of horology. Louis-Joseph Cartier, grandson of the founder, created some of the most cherished timepieces still available today, and sought after by collectors and watch enthusiasts alike. From his 1904 Santos for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, to his 1906 Tonneau-shaped, and 1912 Tortue-shaped watches, Cartier showed a marketing instinct that became a global phenomenon.
The present 1960s example from Cartier London is extremely well-preserved, with a well-proportioned case, and crisp case numbers, and fitted with its original deployant buckle with matching serial number. Crisp London hallmarks are found on the inside of the case and throughout the buckle. Before becoming a unified brand, Cartier operated with separate boutiques in London, Paris and New York and timepieces from this period are highly sought after by collectors both for their iconic designs as well as their place in the history of horology. The Tank Normale was the wristwatch that set the DNA for Cartier’s future, and this lot is a wonderful opportunity to own part of that history.
Model Name
Tank Normale
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold deployant buckle stamped JC with London hallmarks
Dimensions
23mm width x 31mm length
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate $6,000-12,000 €5,100-10,300
CARTIER Tank Normale London
106.
A fine and attractive white gold chronograph wristwatch with pulsometer scale, original Certificate of Origin, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2015
Reference No.
5170G-001
Movement No.
5’826’144
Case No.
4’698’478
Material
18K White Gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH 29-535 PS AIG.1, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $20,000-30,000 €17,200-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated 15 September 2015, fitted presentation box, leather envelope with product literature, and outer packaging.
The chronograph is one of the most quintessential and practical timekeeping complications with a rich history reaching back over 200 years stemming from the first known chronograph watch made by Louis Moinet in 1816. While originally found on pocket watches, chronograph wristwatches rose in popularity in the early 20th century alongside new technologies like the automobile and aviation as they found a mainstream audience. Longines manufactured a monopusher chronograph in 1913,
followed by other brands including Patek Philippe, which produced their first simple chronograph wristwatch in 1924 with a 13’’’ movement based on a modified Victorin Piguet ébauche. Since that time, the brand has developed and released a long line of cherished chronographs from the early reference 130, to their iconic complicated perpetual calendar chronographs including the references 1518 and 2499. Patek Philippe discontinued their simple chronograph wristwatch production in the late 1960s with the sporty, water resistant reference 1463, and would not offer another simple chronograph model until the reference 5070, introduced in 1998. The 42mm diameter case with stepped bezel created a modern aesthetic that quickly attracted the attention of watch enthusiasts. Using a heavily-modified ebauche supplied by Lemania, the model was replaced 12 years later with the introduction of the yellow gold reference 5170 featuring Patek Philippe’s first in-house chronograph movement in a smaller 39.5mm diameter case. The white gold version of the reference 5170 was introduced in 2013, with the distinction of having a dial with applied Breguet hour markers and pulsometer scale. With a slim yet sizable case profile, the 5170 is highly discreet and versatile - a perfect watch for the office, board meeting, or for weekend wear. Stamped with the Patek Philippe seal, the caliber CH 29-535 PS winds smoothly and beautifully, and the chronograph pushers have extremely satisfying haptics. The present example is offered in excellent condition by its original owner, and complete with its accessories. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5170G
107.
A rare and attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with pink dial and pulsation scale, retailed by Walser Wald
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1939
Reference No.
591
Movement No.
862’240
Case No.
619’400
Model Name
“Fagiolino”
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $50,000-100,000 €42,900-85,800 Accessories Accompanied by photocopy of Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with raised gold hour markers and pulsometer scale in 1939 and its subsequent sale on September 11th, 1939.
The Patek Philippe chronograph reference 591 is one of the most elusive and rare chronographs made by the Geneva brand with an estimated total of 54 models in pink gold. Produced from 1938 until the early 1950s, the design of the reference 591 is a fine balance between decadence and simplicity with its superbly slim and elegant case and dramatic short, down turned lugs. At the time of production, the model
was entirely different from anything that the manufacture had ever produced. The case, produced by Wenger, featured “bean”-shaped lugs, lovingly dubbed “Fagiolino”, or “little bean” in Italian. It is incredible to think that such a striking and contemporary design dates back to nearly 80 years ago. The superb pink dial with rare pulsation scale perfectly complements the pink gold case providing for a superb monochromatic result. The dial is furthermore signed Walser Wald, a prominent Patek Philippe retailer based in Buenos Aires which further explains the flamboyant personality of the present watch. Scholars will also be interested to know that the inside caseback is stamped with an owl which is normally found on watches imported into France. Whereas the latter were stamped with two owl heads, the present model has only one. The reason being that all of Patek Philippe’s timepieces destined for the South American market were shipped via ports in France and thus had to be stamped with French import marks, nevertheless since these watches were in transit and not destined for the local market, the owl head was stamped only once and not twice. It is interesting to note that the present model has a unique dial in many aspects. It is the second known reference 591 with a pink dial and pulsations scale (the other having a 15 pulsations scale as opposed to the 30 pulsations found here) and the only one known with the Walser Wald signature. This is a true treasure for the connoisseur.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 591 “Pulsations Walser Wald”
108.
A sporty and attractive platinum annual calendar chronograph wristwatch with grey dial, day/night indicator, Certificate of Origin, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2008
Reference No.
5960P-001
Movement No.
3’503’149
Case No.
4’450’971
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 28-520, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $25,000-45,000 Σ €21,500-38,600 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin indicating the purchase of this watch on May 29th, 2008, product literature, hangtag, setting pin, leather wallet, paper envelope, inner fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
The reference 5960 is a milestone reference for Patek Philippe, as it was fitted with the brand’s first self-winding chronograph – the calibre CH 28-520, designed and manufactured completely in-house. Since its launch in 2006, the reference 5960 has undergone various configurations, first offered only in platinum with an anthracite grey dial, like the present lot, followed by a version in pink gold. The 5960 has been lauded for its sporty feel, generous dimensions without sacrificing wearability, and innovative dial layout. A highly practical timepiece that is favored for daily wear amongst collectors thanks to its intuitive annual calendar complication and comfortable yet stylish wrist presence. In excellent condition, this example was purchased at the London salon of Patek Philippe in 2008 and retains its complete suite of original accessories.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5960P Annual Calendar Chronograph
109.
A superbly elegant and extremely scarce yellow gold chronograph with tachymeter scale and bean-shaped lugs
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1943
Reference No.
591
Movement No.
863’182
Case No.
632’641
Model Name
“Fagiolino”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle stamped PP
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $40,000-80,000 €34,300-68,700 Accessories Accompanied by photocopy of Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of this watch with silvered dial, raised gold indexes, and tachymeter scale in 1943 and its subsequent sale on November 9th, 1943.
Patek Philippe first launched reference 591 in 1938. At the time of production, the model was entirely different from anything that the manufacture had ever produced. The case, produced by Wenger, featured “bean” shaped lugs, lovingly dubbed “Fagiolino”, or “little bean”. The angular, and relatively sharp lines starkly contrasted with the smooth Calatrava design of reference 130 and 533. Reference 591 was also larger than its chronograph siblings, boasting a 34 millimeter case diameter, giving the watch a modern aesthetic today. Reference 591 was produced in exceedingly small numbers. In fact, it is the rarest production chronograph model that the firm produced throughout the 1930s and 1950s. Research suggests that less than 17 examples cased in yellow gold have appeared on the market thus far, with approximately 34 examples estimated to have been produced in total. With a beautiful silver dial with raised, hard enamel print, elegant bean-shaped lugs extending out from the case giving a dynamic wrist presence, and extreme rarity, the present 1940s Patek Philippe chronograph is a superb rarity to add to a new collector’s treasure trove.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 591 “Fagiolino”
110.
An early and highly attractive yellow gold wristwatch with date, Gay Frères bracelet, and Henri Stern service papers
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1978
Reference No.
3700/1
Movement No.
1’305’230
Case No.
537’369
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 28-255, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18k yellow gold Gay Frères bracelet, max overall length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K Yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $100,000-200,000 €85,800-172,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming date of manufacture of the present watch in 1978 and its subsequent sale on June 22nd, 1978. Further accompanied by a leather Patek Philippe presentation box, and 2008 Henri Stern Watch Agency service receipt.
Patek Philippe has long been appreciated for their commitment to horological excellence, and recognised for some of the most iconic timepieces of the 20th century. From their grand complication pocket watches of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, to their classic reference 96 Calatrava wristwatch, and their first serialised perpetual calendar chronograph, the brand has been at the forefront of design and mechanical achievements. In response to the quartz crisis of the early 1970s, Patek Philippe launched in 1976, the Nautilus their first truly water resistant luxury sports wristwatch designed by the
celebrated Gérald Genta. Affectionately known as the “Jumbo”, the model was in production for less than a decade, and today is especially coveted amongst collectors. The reference 3700 embodied every aspect of Patek Philippe’s avant-garde design philosophy of the 1970s, from the bold yet elegant curves, to the contrasting finish of the case, and even the delicate grooves of the dial culminating in a sublimely robust and elegant wristwatch. Advertisements from the era trumpeted the Nautilus’ status as one of the most expensive steel wristwatches, and proclaimed “Like the great swords of another age, Nautilus took shape between the skilled hands of master craftsmen.” The “Jumbo” nickname referred to the 42mm case diameter, which was considered oversized for the era. While it was initially not well received, its popularity quickly grew, and soon became a mainstay of Patek Philippe’s collection with subsequent models including chronographs and perpetual calendars. The original reference 3700/1 was in production until 1981 and featured a straight bracelet, while its successor the reference 3700/11 had a tapered bracelet, and remained in production until 1990. The present, rare yellow gold example is one of haute horology’s most iconic and coveted timepieces. The watch was fully serviced by the Henri Stern Agency in 2008 and remains in excellent condition with crisp edges and bevels throughout, with its factory service dial remaining in pristine condition. The original, Gay Frères-signed flat Nautilus clasp is correct, and the bracelet remains rigid and tight throughout. Today, the international market for the icons of horology is strong, and Patek Philippe’s Nautilus is one of the most desired and sought after. This lovely yellow gold example is sure to please the connoisseur.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 3700/1 Nautilus Jumbo
111.
A very fine and well-preserved yellow gold wristwatch with center seconds
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 1950
Reference No.
570
Movement No.
711’765
Case No.
312’836
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27SC, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate $20,000-40,000 Σ €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming date of manufacture of the present watch in 1964 and its subsequent sale on December 23rd, 1965.
Patek Philippe’s Calatrava is a true horological icon, and a family of wristwatches considered by many collectors as being amongst the most beautiful time-only watches of all time. First introduced in 1932 and still in production today, their earliest reference 96 set the mold for a line of legendary timepieces that are immediately recognizable thanks to enduring design codes that have gracefully evolved over more than eight decades. In 1938, the firm released their very first ‘large’ Calatrava models, increasing the case diameter from a small 30mm to 36mm. Two models were introduced - the reference 530 with concave bezel and the reference 570, like the present watch, with flat cylindrical bezel. The model was manufactured until 1972 and was sold with a wide variety of dials, encased predominantly in yellow gold, and rarely in pink gold, white gold, stainless steel and platinum. This reference 570 is fresh to the market and a well preserved example of the famed model. The oversized yellow gold case is superbly proportioned, and the flat bezel elegantly frames the lovely silvered dial. In a world where complications are thought to be the height of desirability, elegant, ‘simple’ watches of the early 20th century with timeless designs command equal attention. Preserved in wonderful condition, the case furthermore features strong hallmarks, sharp edges, and its original curves and proportions.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 570 Calatrava
112.
A well-preserved, early stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, Extract from the Archives, documentary letter, photograph, hang tag, and original purchase invoice
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1962
Reference No.
2998-61
Movement No.
18’946’488
Model Name
Speedmaster
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega semi-expandable bracelet, max length 180mm length
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp stamped 7912, and 3.61
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $15,000-30,000 €12,900-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch on August 28th, 1962 with luminous indexes, and its subsequent delivery to Japan. Further accompanied by a letter from the original owner, original “paid” Layaway Ticket from the Navy Exchange Guam MI dated September 25, 1963, original Omega hang tag, owner’s photographs and product literature.
Widely known as the first and only wristwatch worn on the moon, the celebrated Omega Speedmaster is a design icon in the world of stainless steel chronograph wristwatches. The first Speedmaster, reference 2915 was launched in 1957 and remained in production until 1959 when its successor, the reference 2998, was introduced. The reference 2998 was produced for approximately three years with production
ending in 1962 though the model was still being delivered in 1963. Small modifications like different hands, bezels and dials were made to the reference throughout its manufacture, with each modification defined by the number after the hyphen in the reference number inscribed on the inner caseback. Not only is the present reference 2998-61 extremely well preserved, but it also comes with a fascinating military provenance. It is accompanied by a signed letter from the original owner, a U.S Navy lieutenant who purchased this Speedmaster at the US Naval Exchange in Guam in 1963. The lieutenant was a Naval flight navigator attached to the A3D-2P squadron in Guam know for heavy photo-reconnaissance. Worn on his wrist for many day and overnight flight missions over the Pacific Ocean and Vietnam, he used it successfully as a tool for celestial navigation during an era when GPS had not yet been developed. The watch features the legendary caliber 321, widely considered amongst the best manually wound chronograph movements available. Furthermore, the watch has the correct black tachometer bezel graduated to 500 units, along with original chronograph hands as well as lovely luminous plots that have aged to a warm brown tone. The chronograph also is correct with the Omega steel bracelet reference 7912. The Speedmaster was targeted for ‘active clientele’ solidifying its role as the official timekeeper of NASA, Olympics, and everyday sports enthusiasts, as well as flight navigators who completed missions for the US Navy. In exceptional, original condition and further accompanied with its purchase receipt, original hang tag, and photograph of the original owner wearing the watch, the present lot is a rare opportunity to own a timepiece that is part of Omega’s long history in the world of flight.
OMEGA Ref. 2998 Speedmaster “Reconnaissance”
113.
A very rare and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, fixed spring bars, and special military markings, with copy of Royal Marine Testimonial, made for the British Royal Navy
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1968
Reference No.
165.024
Movement No.
26’288’922
Case No.
0552/923-7697 and A/461/70
Model Name
Seamaster 300, “Military”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 552, 24 jewels
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate $30,000-60,000 €25,700-51,500 Accessories Accompanied by photocopy of Special Boat Service Royal Marines Testimonial and copy Royal Marines Certificate of Qualifications. Further accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the watch on February 14th, 1968 and delivery to Singapore.
Omega introduced the Seamaster 300 in 1957 as part of their “Professional” line of tool watches produced for professional and recreational divers with a very small batch made for military use. Custom designed by Omega to meet the British Ministry of Defense’s specifications, their cases, with distinctive curved and beveled lugs, were delivered with fixed spring bars. The dials featured an encircled ‘T’ designation, signifying the use of tritium for the luminous hour markers and hands with broad, sword-shaped hour and minute hands, and an angular, sweep seconds hand specially designed for military use. The crown was screw down opposed to the snap down
design found on standard production models. The case backs were engraved by the Ministry of Defense with the military branch code, issue number, and year of issue. Since most were used in combat and on military deployments, very few have survived with all factory military features intact, and the present “Military” from 1968 is a wonderful example. The caseback is engraved ‘0552’, indicating delivery to the Royal Navy, and further confirmed by the photocopies of the original owner’s Royal Marines “Special Boat Services Testimonial” and “Certificate of Qualifications”. Warrant Officer Peter James Vallely joined the Royal Marines in 1973, and served for four years with the 40 Commando battalion unit, as well as on-board HMS Diomede. He next volunteered and completed training for the Special Boat Service, a maritime special forces unit of the United Kingdom Special Forces. Through his long and distinguished career, Warrant Officer James saw operational service in the South Atlantic, the Middle East, and Northern Ireland, and was known for his professional and motivated service to the country. He retired after 24 years of service with awards including the Military Medal and Accumulated Campaign Service Medal. The present example is in excellent original condition. The dial is fitted with what is known as the original “thin” encircled ‘T’. Many Seamaster 300 dials were replaced during use by the British military, and are found with “fat” encircled ‘T’’s that were reprinted by the Military of Defense. The luminous hour markers and hands have faded to a pale yellow, and match in hue with the luminous numerals on the original acrylic bezel. Military watches have remained collectible for their tangible ties to historic moments and rugged good looks, and this Seamaster 300 is a wonderfully preserved example for the elite collector.
OMEGA
SM300 Seamaster “MilSub”
114.
A very rare and fine antimagnetic alloy diver’s prototype wristwatch with humidity indicator, made for the US Navy
Manufacturer
Blancpain
Year
Circa 1960
Case No.
3237
Model Name
Blancpain, Mil Spec, US Navy
Material
Antimagnetic alloy
Calibre
Automatic, cal. AS 1361, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Nylon
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel buckle
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed
Estimate $50,000-80,000 €42,900-68,700 Accessories Accompanied by photocopy Blancpain Analysis, and leather pouch
Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms is widely recognized for its historical significance as the first ‘modern’ diver’s wristwatch with a rotating bezel, released in 1953. While it has been in production since then, scholarship regarding this fascinating model continues to be written. The story of its origins is well-known, rooted in solving the needs of an elite branch of the French Navy – the Service de Documentation Extérieure et de ContreEspionnage – tasked with underwater espionage and other covert operations. In the 1960s, the U. S. Navy reached out to Blancpain for a military wristwatch, however due to the 1933 “Buy American Act” the U.S. Navy could not directly purchase Swiss Blancpain
watches, specifically the Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec. The model was already tested and approved for use by the Navy Experimental Diving Unit in 1958, but to conform to the Buy American Act, the American “Tornek-Rayville” brand was created by Allen V. Tornek - the U.S. importer of Blancpain based in midtown New York City. By doing so, the firm would win the bid to be the American supplier of Blancpain watches for the U.S. Navy. Presented here is one of the rarest military diver’s watches in the world – a “Blancpain U.S. Navy” that is most likely a prototype produced just before the “Tornek-Rayville” series. Only four such examples are known, with Phillips having sold one of these four in November 2015 in Geneva. Another example was exhibited at the Fifty Fathoms exhibition in 2010. All four watches have serial numbers falling in the 3,2xx sequence. These watches are part of the milspec 1 series with which they share the same bezel featuring a triangle but also the small winding crown. All also feature the A. Schild caliber 1361 modified with a hacking seconds, with glossy dials fitted with a humidity indicator at 6 o’clock. It is understood that Blancpain was pitching for a larger order with the U.S. Navy, for which purpose these watches were made. As Blancpain did not win this important contract, the “U.S. Navy” model never went beyond the prototype phase. The case is made of an anti-magnetic alloy with a greenish hue, often called bronze by collectors. The Blancpain “U.S. Navy” is not only one of the rarest diver’s wristwatches in the world, but also one of the best looking. The present example here, in extraordinarily good condition must be considered one of the most worthy collectors’ watches for aficionados of diver’s watches.
BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms MilSpec “U.S. NAVY”
115.
A very rare and fine stainless steel wristwatch with matte dial, date, center seconds and bracelet, with Rolex international service guarantee and invoice, made for COMEX
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1981
Reference No.
16800, inside caseback stamped
Movement No.
0’748’633
Case No.
7’285’787, 6031
with repeated case number 7’285’787
Model Name
Submariner “COMEX”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped 93150, endlinks stamped 593, max length 240mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped S AD2 and 93150
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $50,000-100,000 €42,900-85,800 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex International Service Guarantee dated 7 April, 2006, and Rolex invoice
One of the best known associations was between Rolex and COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertise) based in Marseilles, France. Rolex exclusively supplied different Submariner and Sea-Dweller models to their specialist divers with most watches marked ‘COMEX’ on the dial and numbered on the case back. They were exclusively reserved for the firm and never available to the public for purchase.
Like many “issued” Rolex watches, the inside case backs of COMEX watches bore the full serial number, or in some instances the last 3 digits, corresponding to the case number found between the lugs at 6 o’clock. The ‘COMEX’ and issue numbers engraved on the casebacks for these timepieces evolved across models, with the present example featuring the word ‘COMEX’ around the rim with the large issue number boldly engraved in the center. Rolex’s first Submariner wristwatch was released in 1953 with the reference 6204, and has become an iconic wristwatch with many iterations over the decades. Today it remains one of the most sought after tool watches of all times. In 1967, the brand introduced their upgraded reference 1680 the first Submariner with a date function, and in 1979 Rolex released the new 16800 model featuring an upgraded sapphire crystal with a redesigned unidirectional bezel, quick-set date function, and an improved depth rating from 200 meters to 300 meters. The model remained in production until 1988 with early examples like the present watch fitted with a matte dial and luminous indices, while later timepieces featured a glossy finished dial with luminous white gold markers. The present reference 16800 is amongst the rarest of all COMEX configurations with its sapphire crystal and early matte dial, with approximately two dozen believed to have been issued. Preserved in superb condition, the case retains its factory original bevels and finished surfaces, with the case back’s engraved issue number “6031” crisp. The inside of the case back is engraved with the full serial number found between the lugs. The Rolex COMEX relationship is well documented and this hardly ever seen matte-dial COMEX Submariner ref. 16800 with Rolex international service guarantee is a wonderful opportunity for the discerning collector.
ROLEX
Ref. 16800 Submariner COMEX “Transitional”
116.
A very rare, and attractive stainless steel dual-time wristwatch with date and bracelet, with extensive provenance material and presentation box, made for the UAE Ministry of Defence
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1978
Reference No.
1675
Movement No.
D762’493
Case No.
5’690’470
Model Name
GMT-Master, “U.A.E. Quraysh Hawk”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped 78360, end links stamped 580, max length 160mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped VC
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $60,000-120,000 €51,500-103,000 Accessories Accompanied by a Rolex green leather presentation box, original owner’s testimonial, International Military Sports Council Certificate, 1981 UAE Para Champ medallion, and photographs
Launched in 1955, Rolex’s GMT-Master was a dual time zone wristwatch developed in collaboration with Pan American Airways which sought a timekeeper that enabled their pilots to simultaneously keep track of both “home” and “local” times when flying from one location to another. The watch fulfilled a need during the golden age of air travel for the jet-set traversing the globe. The present 1978 GMT-Master is a wonderful example of this now iconic timepiece. The watch takes on a whole new level of importance with its coveted UAE Quraysh Hawk rendered in relief on the dial. Situated at 6 o’clock where the “Superlative
Chronometer Officially Certified” typically is found, the polychrome tones are vibrant and eye catching in a way only a genuine Rolex stamp can be. Most interestingly, this example features the signature of His Highness Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum to the right of the eagle. In contrast, most examples feature the Wazarah Ad Difa’A department in Arabic, making this watch a particularly rare variant. Scholarship hypothesizes the Emir’s signature signifies a personal connection with the watch, and it is entirely possible these Emir-signed wristwatches were given in the most prestigious of circumstances. These rare timepieces were produced between 1971 and 1979 for the Ministry of Defense. Accompanied with a hardly ever seen trove of provenance items, this example was gifted to Captain José Hilario Trujillo in 1981. Captain Trujillo was in the UAE for the XIII Parachute International Military Sport Council as a representative from Panama, as explained in his signed letter accompanying the watch. Not only is its provenance outstanding, this important watch is preserved in superb original condition with a very crisp and likely unpolished case, and pristine original dial. The hour markers have aged beautifully and perfectly match the luminous hands with a warm yellowish hue. The “Pepsi” bezel, which was designed so pilots could determine between night and day has an appealing shade of red with the blue night sector remaining a deep tone. The GMT-Master is a classic mid-20th century timepiece, which today is highly sought after by collectors for its iconic design and masculine appeal. The model is still manufactured today with the DNA elements of the earliest references still visible. The present lot is a rare opportunity to own one of the finest and most well-documented examples of a GMT-Master “U.A.E. Quraysh Hawk” to ever appear on the market
ROLEX
Ref. 1675 GMT Master “U.A.E. Ministry of Defense”
117.
Rolex — A well-preserved and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with date, center seconds, helium escape valve, bracelet, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2018
Reference No.
126600
Case No.
385M3703
Model Name
Sea-Dweller “Single Red 50th Anniversary”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3235, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp
Dimensions
43mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $8,000-12,000 €6,900-10,300 Accessories Includes one extra link and the diver’s extension clasp. Accompanied by original hangtag, seal, retailer-stamped guarantee card dated January 27th, 2018, leather wallet, warranty booklet, instruction manual, inner and outer presentation box.
In the 1990s, Rolex featured their landmark deep-diving reference, the Sea-Dweller, in a campaign stating “History is written by those who realize there’s never a right way, only a better way.” And this statement, while true for all Rolexes, is particularly true with the Sea-Dweller, engineered to accompany man to Earth’s greatest depths, surviving unimaginable and destructive pressures. To commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Sea-Dweller, Rolex introduced the new Sea-Dweller reference 126600 at Baselworld 2017. The Sea-Dweller is arguably the least commercial model in the lineup as it is a highly professional tool watch initially developed for specialist deep-sea divers.
The first model launched was the ref. 1665 in 1967 and it was Rolex’s most capable diver’s wristwatch with a depth rating of up to 610 meters, which was roughly double the depth rating of a Submariner ref. 5513. The Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126600 came as a surprise to many as there were newly updated features both aesthetically and technically. For the first time in decades, the new model featured the “SEA-DWELLER” designation in red writing, taking inspiration from early examples of the reference 1665 which appeared in the 1960s and 1970s with one line (Single Red) of red printing or two lines (Double Red). Furthermore, Rolex incorporated a magnifying lens on the surface of the crystal above the date aperture, initially witnessed in the Submariner reference 1680, and never-before-seen on a Sea-Dweller. Another interesting upgrade was its larger case dimension measuring 43mm in diameter, differing from all previous Sea-Dweller models with 40mm diameter cases. The new case provides water resistance capabilities of up to 1220 meters. The movement was upgraded to Rolex’s cal. 3235 providing enhanced efficiency and precision. Highly sought after and technically advanced, the present Sea-Dweller reference 126600 is preserved in excellent condition and with all its original accompaniments, directly from the collection of the original owner. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
118.
Rolex — An unworn, brightly colored, and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, green ceramic bezel, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2018
Reference No.
116610LV
Case No.
J4357936
Model Name
Submariner “Hulk”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $8,000-12,000 €6,900-10,300 Accessories Includes three extra links. Accompanied by original hangtag, seal, retailer-stamped guarantee card dated February 20th, 2018, leather wallet, instruction manual, inner and outer presentation box.
A bookish, introspective, and quietly tortured scientist by day, transformed by rage and magic into a muscled, scantily clad, and verdant partner of the Avengers, the Incredible Hulk lends his trademark green skin to the nickname for Rolex’s reference 116610LV “Hulk.” The watch collecting community once again selected an apt nickname for such a bombastic offering. As the successor to the anniversary Submariner reference 16610LV nicknamed “the Kermit”, which had a bright green metal bezel, Rolex updated the 116610LV with their signature Cerachrom bezel in green paired with a sunburst “green gold” dial as a fitting successor. First released in 2010, the update included broader lugs and Rolex’s Glidelock bracelet clasp for ease of adjustment as well. The “Hulk” was discontinued in 2020, and a further successor introduced in 2021 – nicknamed the “Starbucks” or “Cermit” with the same green Cerachrom bezel, but now with a black dial and updated 41mm case. Now highly sought-after by collectors around the world, this pristine example of the Submariner Hulk from the original owner is a rare opportunity to own one of Rolex’s most coveted modern wristwatches. It is further accompanied by its original suite of accessories for the most demanding of collectors. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
119.
A very rare stainless steel dual time wristwatch with bracelet, original guarantee, service warranty, and presentation boxes, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1991
Reference No.
16700
Case No.
X830’504
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3175, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped 93150, endlinks stamped 51B, overall length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 93150, S5
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $25,000-50,000 €21,500-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee stamped Tiffany & Co, presentation box with outer blue Tiffany & Co. packaging, two Rolex service warranties dated 2002 and 2006, and product literature
Rolex tool watches are some of the most collectible and sought after timepieces today, and the GMT-Master, first released in 1955, has been part of the Rolex collection ever since. At the dawn of the Jet Age, Rolex developed this dual time zone watch in conjunction with Pan American airways so their personnel could tell both “local” and “home” time while traveling. Rolex created an ingenious method using a rotating bezel, which worked in conjunction with a fourth, 24-hour center hand permitting the wearer to clearly keep track of two time zones. The first model, reference 6542 had a robust, masculine appeal with highly legible dial and blue and red Bakelite bezel, however always looking to improve upon design and precision mechanics, the GMT-Master has continuously evolved its nearly 70 years on the market. Introduced in 1988, the Rolex GMT-Master reference 16700 featured modern aesthetics and technical upgrades during a transitional period for the brand. Featuring a sapphire crystal for the first time on the model, it provided enhanced robustness and improved water resistance. Retailed by Tiffany & Co., the present watch is a wonderful, extremely rare, and superbly complete example of this transitional reference. Stamped prominently with the prestigious retailer’s signature at 6 o’clock, the watch comes accompanied by the original guarantee stamped ‘Tiffany & Co’, along with two Rolex service warranties dated from 2002 and 2006, as well as the original blue Tiffany &Co. outer packaging.
ROLEX
Ref. 16700 GMT Master “Tiffany & Co.”
120.
A visually arresting white gold chronograph wristwatch with hard stone dial and service guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2001
Reference No.
116519
Case No.
K449407
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Beach”
Material
18K white gold, chrysoprase
Calibre
Automatic, 4130, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rolex green lizard strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap, and buckle signed.
Estimate $20,000-40,000 Σ €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex service guarantee dated January 8th, 2019, instructional booklets, guarantee booklet, polishing cloth, and inner and outer presentation boxes.
Since the introduction of the gem-set manually-wound 6269 and 6270 Daytona references, Rolex has taken the basic case, dial, and strap (or bracelet) of the beloved chronograph, and adorned it with various gems, outfitted it with colorful and exotic straps, and decorated the dial with otherworldly materials. Some of the most extravagant, elegant, and exciting examples in the Rolex catalogue are in this elevated line of Daytonas, which have only increased in opulence since the introduction of the automatic Daytonas: first, the caliber 4030 and then the in-house 4130. Perhaps
the upsized 40mm diameter allowed for a larger canvas for Rolex to experiment with. At the turn of the century, Rolex introduced not only its new inhouse automatic movement for the Cosmograph Daytona, the caliber 4130, but a new reference alongside it, the reference 116520. Coinciding with this launch, Rolex released a colorful, joyful line of Daytonas, all cased in 18K white gold on exotic straps. These watches have been dubbed the “Beach” series, with brightly colored hardstone dials in blue (turquoise), yellow (yellow mother-of-pearl), pink (pink mother-of-pearl), and green (like the present lot, green chrysoprase), paired with matching lizard straps. These offerings brought a levity to the new Daytona lineup, and over the years since its introduction, the Beach series has become highly coveted by collectors. The present lot is fitted with a chrysoprase dial and has a complementary green lizard strap. Chrysoprase is a form of translucent chalcedony that runs the gamut of the green spectrum from very light, almost pastel, to a deeply saturated green, caused by the nickel content of the stone. True chrysoprase is quite rare because large pieces of consistent color and without major inclusions are difficult to find. For Rolex to source such large pieces of homogenous chrysoprase and other similarly fragile and scarce materials underscores their commitment to quality and excellence. The current K serial Daytona Beach is in excellent condition, having been serviced by Rolex in 2019, and comes with its service box and papers. The chrysoprase is an intense candy apple green with no cracks or inclusions, absolutely stunning and resplendent against the white gold case.
ROLEX
Ref. 116519 “Daytona Beach”
121.
A rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet
ROLEX Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman
Rolex’s Daytona chronograph sits in the pantheon of greatest timepieces ever produced. First released in 1963 with the reference 6239, the model has evolved gracefully over the last five decades, and has become a grail watch amongst collectors. The reference 6241 was produced from approximately 1966 to 1969 with scholarship estimating no more than 3000 examples were manufactured, with only a small percentage fitted with the iconic “Paul Newman” dial. Produced in stainless steel as well as 14 karat and 18 karat gold, this reference was the first Daytona offered with a black acrylic bezel, offering an alternative to the steel bezel found on the reference 6239. Officially named the “exotic” dial by Rolex and now known worldwide as “Paul Newman” dials, they were poorly received by the market and discontinued at the beginning of the 1970s. Today, Paul Newman Daytonas are not only the most coveted vintage chronographs amongst Rolex collectors, but have become a household name due in large part to the recordbreaking, USD $17.8 million obtained for Paul Newman’s personal Daytona fitted with a “Paul Newman” dial auctioned by Phillips in New York in October 2017.
121.
A rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1968
Reference No.
6241
Case No.
1’766’105
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona, “Paul Newman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped 7835, end links stamped 71N, max length
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamp 4.68
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate $120,000-240,000 €103,000-206,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex presentation box, and copy of Rolex Service papers confirming the tri-color dial with case serial number 1’766’105.
Featuring a dial configuration identical to Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” Daytona, this reference 6241 is a wonderful example with a well-preserved case and dial. Its ivory white color aged beautifully with fully intact luminous hour markers, which have aged to a sandy yellow hue. Offered for the first time at auction, this Daytona has been safely stored in a vault over the last 20 years, and was lovingly serviced by Rolex. This is an excellent opportunity to own one of the most distinguished and sought after chronographs on the market today, and is a trophy piece for a collector.
ROLEX Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman
122.
An elegant and extremely rare stainless steel and pink gold chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter scale
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 130 “Steel & Pink Gold”
122.
An elegant and extremely rare stainless steel and pink gold chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter scale
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1943
Reference No.
130
Movement No.
863’111
Case No.
626’176
Material
Stainless steel and 18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Dimensions
33.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $100,000-200,000 €85,800-172,000 Accessories Accompanied by photocopy of Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1943 with rose dial, applied gold hour markers, and tachymeter scale, and its subsequent sale on November 28th 1945.
Reference 130 is one of the most diverse chronograph models that Patek Philippe ever produced. In production from 1936 until 1964, the model was cased in predominantly yellow gold. Fewer amounts were cased in pink gold or stainless steel, with steel and gold combinations among the rarest case configurations. The dial variations were numerous and displayed a range of styles, from sector designs to pulsations scales. The present example is one among an exceedingly rare number of reference 130s cased in stainless steel and pink gold. To date, no more than eleven examples have ever graced the auction market. Most notably, the case construction of this model is slightly different than its precious metal counterparts. The lugs are slightly thicker but shorter in design. Furthermore, the diameter is slightly larger at 33.5 millimeters, giving it a decidedly modern appearance and substantially more presence on the wrist. An example sold at the Geneva Watch Auction: NINE that was then believed to have been the earliest known pink gold and stainless steel reference 130; the present example establishes a new precedent in the scholarship as it was produced four years earlier and consequently bears a long Patek Philippe signature on the dial. Additionally, it was previously in the collection of preeminent collector John Goldberger.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 130 “Steel & Pink Gold”
123.
A rare and attractive platinum annual calendar flyback chronograph wristwatch with day and night indication, original Certificate of Origin, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2015
Reference No.
5905P-010
Movement No.
5’905’463
Case No.
6’091’892
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 28-520, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $40,000-60,000 €34,300-51,500 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated 15 October 2015, fitted presentation box, setting pin, leather wallet with product literature, and outer packaging.
Patek Philippe’s history has been highlighted by some of the most iconic and cherished timepieces ever produced, and their chronograph wristwatches are highly sought after in the market today. Whether a classic vintage chronograph like the references 130 and sporty 1463, or modern iterations such as the references 5070 and 5170, these models are technically sophisticated and offer precision timekeeping. The brand discontinued manually-wound, simple chronograph watches in
the 1960s, and reintroduced them in 1998 with the reference 5070, however the chronograph mechanism has long been associated with Patek Phillipe’s most recognised wristwatch model, their iconic line of perpetual calendar chronograph timepieces from the vintage references 1518, 2499, and 3970, to the modern references 5970 and 5270. In 2006, Patek Philippe introduced the reference 5960, their first automatic flyback chronograph wristwatch to incorporate an annual calendar complication, and in 2015 Patek Philippe introduced an updated version - the reference 5905P annual calendar flyback chronograph. The new reference 5905P combined the modern design of Patek Phillipe’s annual calendar reference 5205 with a flyback chronograph mechanism in a larger 42mm diameter case versus the earlier reference 5960’s 40.5mm diameter case. Patek Phillipe first introduced the annual calendar model in 1996 with the reference 5035, which offered clients a reasonably priced calendar watch that was more complicated than a simple calendar watch, however less advanced than the perpetual calendar. The annual calendar required a manual correction once per year between February 28th or 29th and March 1st. The model was available either with black or blue dial. The present lot is offered for the first time by the original owner and complete with its accessories and preserved in excellent condition. This modern complication will please any watch connoisseur with its modern aesthetic and technically advanced movement. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5905P Annual Calendar Chronograph
124.
A rare and fine pink gold chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter scale
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1942
Reference No.
130
Movement No.
862’888
Case No.
626’623
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed
Estimate $30,000-50,000 Σ €25,700-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by photocopy of Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of this watch in 1942 and its subsequent sale on August 15th, 1942.
During the 1920s, Patek Philippe began to notice a surge in the demand for chronograph wristwatches. Some very limited series and unique pieces were created, mostly powered by movements sourced from Victorin Piguet, but by the 1930s, it was clear a serially produced model was necessary to satisfy demand. Launched in 1934, the reference 130 is powered by a heavily modified Valjoux movement, and easily recognizable due to its slightly curved, elongated lugs and thin, concave bezel. The model was extremely successful and remained in production until at least 1964. Even though it was manufactured for close to 30 years, output was quite limited, resulting in a total of about 1,500 pieces produced. It was offered in yellow gold, pink gold, and stainless steel (though other metals or combinations of metals have been used for special request pieces). The present example’s 18 karat pink gold case was manufactured by Emile Vichet, signified by the number 9 inside a key stamped to the inner case back. Research indicates only 158 examples in pink gold are known to the market, with this being the fourth known with this dial configuration. The present example is offered for the first time at auction, and is a lovely iteration of this iconic chronograph. Property of an important collector, the watch was meticulously overhauled, when a stunning two-tone vintage replacement Patek Philippe dial was installed, and its movement brought back to its original glory.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 130 “Two-Tone Dial”
125.
A well-preserved and rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter bezel, Sigma dial, and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1974
Reference No.
6263; inside caseback additionally stamped 6263
Movement No.
5’581
Case No.
4’089’963
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
14K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
14K yellow gold Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, endlinks stamped 57, max length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle
14K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, stamped D
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, bracelet, and clasp signed.
Estimate $80,000-160,000 €69,200-138,000 Accessories Accompanied by period correct fitted Rolex presentation box.
The references 6263 and 6265 mark the last manuallywound Cosmograph Daytona models from Rolex, with their screw-down pushers and Valjoux 727-based movements. The reference 6263 differs from its sister reference by virtue of its black acrylic bezel, as both were offered with champagne or black dial options. Both references were in production until 1988, when they were replaced by the first automatic Cosmograph Daytona, the reference 16520. Though an estimated 24,000 examples of the 6263 and 6265 were cased in stainless steel, only 2,400 examples are thought to have
been produced in both 14K and 18K yellow gold – underlining the rarity of the present iteration. As the scholarship around vintage Daytonas has grown in the past few decades, the gulf between good watches and the best collectors’ watches has grown wider and wider. This example of a 14K yellow gold reference 6263 is a notable example, with a corresponding riveted 14K yellow gold Oyster bracelet. Many of these 14K gold Daytonas were destined for export to the United States; however, this piece does not bear ROW on the movement. Additionally, this example bears the rare “Sigma” marking on the dial, not often seen on these pieces and even less often on black-dial examples. The “Sigma” indicated the use of solid gold for the hour markers to raise confidence in gold as an investment. A similar reference 6263 with 14K yellow gold case and Sigma dial, only three serial numbers away from the present watch, appeared publicly four years ago consigned by the widow of the original owner. Bearing the correct double Swiss hallmarks for 14K gold, two squirrels, one on the caseback and one on the reverse of the lug, as well as ‘14K’ out on the opposite lug, the squirrel sits upon a “C” indicating the case was tested for fineness and marked in the assay office of Chaux-de-Fonds, where the headquarters of the casemaker, Spillman S.A. was located. So crisp and unmolested are these hallmarks that the “C” is completely visible with the naked eye. A beautiful patina has formed on the sides of the case, swirling cyan and violet, which is repeated on the well-preserved 14K riveted Oyster bracelet, testifying to its exceptional state of preservation. From the collection of a well-respected collector, this Daytona is a superb example of the reference.
ROLEX Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona 14K Yellow Gold
126.
A fine and attractive limited edition white gold chronograph wristwatch with multi-scale dial, Certificate of Authenticity and presentation box, factory sealed
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2014
Reference No.
5975G
Movement No.
5’825’619
Case No.
4’684’863
Model Name
Multi-Scale Chronograph
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. CH 28-250, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold special 175th Anniversary deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate $40,000-60,000 Σ €34,300-51,500 Accessories Accompanied by Certificate of Authenticity, limited edition Attestation, 175th Anniversary Patek Philippe fitted box, commemoration medal, leather pouch, product literature and outer packaging. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with multi-scales in 2014, and its subsequent sale on October 22nd, 2014.
In the latter half of the 20th century, Patek Philippe began to issue limited edition timepieces, which were manufactured as a celebration of an anniversary, or recognition of a long-term retailer relationship. In 1989, the brand released an exceptional
collection of watches to celebrate their 150th anniversary, with two iconic limited edition timepieces, the reference 3960 “Officier” time only wristwatch, and the highly attractive tonneau-shaped Jump Hour watch, reference 3969. Twentyfive years later, as part of their 175th anniversary celebrations, Patek Philippe again issued a new line of limited edition watches, and the reference 5975G chronograph wristwatch with multiscale dial was one of the most distinctive, honouring their chronographs from the 1940s and 1950s. Released in 2014, the 5975 was housed in a striking 40mm diameter case, and its dial featured three scales permitting instantaneous measurements: a pulsometer, calibrated to 15 pulsations for heart rate, a telemeter scale to indicate distance based on the speed of light and speed of sound, and a tachymeter, used to measure speed over distance. Housing Patek Philippe’s in-house, automatic chronograph caliber, the CH28-520, the chronograph mechanism is able to operate at all times with no effect on accuracy or additional wear due to the innovative vertical clutch mechanism. The silvered opaline dial is brilliant, with an enamel-like shimmering effect, and its case, with stepped Art Deco-style lugs are another pleasing nod to the past. The model was produced in 400 examples in yellow, white and pink gold, with 100 examples in platinum with black dial. This fine wristwatch is offered with its Certificate of Authenticity, presentation box, attestation and commemorative coin. It is a tribute to the craftsmanship, and artistic design of a brand that has remained a driving force of horology for over 175 years.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5975G Chronograph “175th Anniversary”
Stock photo for illustrative purposes.
127.
Panerai — An interesting and uncommon white gold limited edition dual-time wristwatch with date, alarm, certificate, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Panerai
Year
1999
Reference No.
PAM046; OP 6516
Case No.
Numbered 13 of 60; BB1010408
Model Name
Radiomir GMT Alarm
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 59P, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate $8,000-16,000 Σ €6,900-13,700 Accessories Accompanied by Panerai Specification document dated December 1st 2001, Panerai Certificate numbered 13 of 60 pieces, dated December of 1999, international warranty and guarantee card and booklet, key, inner presentation box, and outer presentation box.
1999. The first of the second series of Star Wars movies, The Phantom Menace, was released. The Space Shuttle Discovery first docks at the International Space Station. The world is gripped with fear about the impending Y2K disaster. And the Panerai Radiomir GMT Alarm was introduced. Rarely offered publicly, the Panerai Radiomir GMT Alarm, cased in 18K white gold, was released in 1999 as part of a limited series of 60 pieces. Small in comparison to its other Radiomir brethren at only 40mm diameter, it combines three highly useful travel complications: a magnified date, a GMT indicator, and an alarm. Powering the PAM046 is the GirardPerregaux caliber 59 finished with a motif of the Panerai logo. Stainless steel and pink gold versions followed as the PAM046, the PAM00238 and PAM00098 respectively. The present lot is replete with its original suite of accessories, including certificate, warranty, and presentation box. Offered in superb overall condition, it presents an attractive opportunity to own a piece of modern Panerai history.
128.
Panerai — An attractive, limited edition pink gold wristwatch with California-style dial, guarantee and presentation box, numbered 158 of 300
Manufacturer
Panerai
Year
2017
Reference No.
PAM00740
Movement No.
006’264
Case No.
158/300, PL0011936
Model Name
Radiomir 1940 Oro Rosso
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, P.1000, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Panerai buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate $10,000-20,000 Σ €8,600-17,200 Accessories Accompanied by a Panerai guarantee, presentation box, product literature and outer packaging.
Founded in 1860 by Giovanni Panerai (1825-1897), Officine Panerai specialized in producing high precision wristwatches and navigation tools for the Italian Royal Navy. Their Radiomir timepiece was Panerai’s first prototype wristwatch produced in 1936 for the Royal Italian Navy. Some examples were fitted with “Error-Proof” dials, also known as “California” dials, comprising of both Roman and Arabic numerals for improved legibility underwater, along with a railway track outer minute ring. Released in 2017, the PAM740 is a modern iteration of the famed Radiomir with a “California” dial. The limited edition was produced in 300 pink gold examples, with the present timepiece numbered 158. The vintage-inspired dial features SuperLuminova numerals, and like other special editions, lacks the Panerai Radiomir signature and logo. Powered by the manual caliber P. 1000 with 3-day power reserve, the high-grade movement is fitted with a specially constructed bridge and two supports to secure the balance wheel for robust shock resistance. The present example is offered by the original owner in excellent condition, and complete with accessories. This 21st century wristwatch is a lovely representation of the timepieces of 100 years ago, and a reminder of their classic design. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
129.
Jaeger-LeCoultre — A handsome and striking white gold limited edition wristwatch, with enameled dial, numbered 28 of 50, with certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year
2012
Reference No.
Q373 35 EI: 273.3.62
Case No.
Numbered 28/50; 2’820’397
Model Name
Reverso Série Limitée
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 822, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Jaeger-LeCoultre pin buckle
Dimensions
30mm Width by 48.5mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $12,000-24,000 €10,300-20,600 Accessories Accompanied by Certificate of Origin, Guarantee Certificate dated 29th December 2012, instruction booklet, inner fitted box, and outer presentation box.
Launched in 1931, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso wristwatch was designed for polo players who found their watches were often damaged during matches. The model became one of the most beloved rectangular timepieces of the 20th century with an ingenious case design, which flips over thus protecting the crystal. The polo player could wear their wristwatch during chukkers without risk of damage. Since its launch, the Reverso has been produced in countless variations, from
simple time-only models to more complicated examples with perpetual calendar, tourbillon and minute repeater. Simple and elegant in form, but commanding in presence, the present Reverso is a limited edition of fifty pieces from 2013, rendered in 18K white gold with a blue enamel dial. The lustre of white gold and the brilliant azure dial is an intoxicating combination. Large, Breguet-style Arabic numerals add legibility as well as elegance, and the placards bearing the maker and model name stand out proudly. The dial itself is a masterpiece of enameling, having endured twenty individual firings in a kiln, with the precise temperature and timing a mystery to all but the master artisan. The final layer of translucent enamel lends additional vibrancy and ensures durability. The guilloché motif swirls out from the center of the dial; first floral in appearance and then melding into an almost cloud-like design. All this is completed, start to finish, entirely by hand. The present example has been preserved in absolutely crisp condition over the past decade, with little signs of wear. Only 50 total examples were created in 2012, and it is a rare occurrence that they appear publicly. Paired with perhaps a cobalt blue suede strap, or a navy alligator, there’s no chance of the blues when wearing this timepiece .
130.
Breguet — An attractive semi-skeletonized white gold dual-time wristwatch with day and night indication, and power reserve with Certificate of Origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
Circa 2012
Reference No.
7067
Movement No.
1’200’970
Case No.
3938AZ
Model Name
Tradition GMT
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 507 DRF, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Breguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $12,000-24,000 €10,300-20,600 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet Certificate of Origin, wooden fitted presentation box, product literature and outer packaging.
Breguet’s Tradition Collection was launched in 2005, and is a 21st century homage to Breguet’s legacy and his “souscription” series. The reference 7067 was introduced in 2012, and is still available in both white and pink gold. The Tradition GMT is a unique representation of the dual-time function found on many tool watches. The wristwatch is classic Breguet with an open-worked dial providing visibility to the movement and in particular the escapement. The caliber 507 DRF celebrates some of the master’s most cherished innovations like the Breguet hairspring with “overcoil” for enhanced precision, as well as the parachute shock absorption system. The reverse displays an elegant power reserve with the movement having approximately 50 hours when fully wound.
A hallmark of Breguet timepieces is the guilloché silvered dial with classic blued steel Breguet hands. The movement is fully visible below, with a day/night indicator at 10 o’clock, and a blackened subsidiary dial indicating the second time zone at 8 o’clock. The 40mm diameter case has extended straight lugs, with a pusher at 10 o’clock for ease of setting the second time zone. The present model is in excellent condition, and an exemplary example of the essence of Breguet timepieces. Complete with its boxes, original certificate, and accessories, the reference 7067 is a horological work of art by one of the industry’s oldest manufacturers, and a welcome addition to any collection.
131.
Vacheron Constantin — An attractive limited edition pink gold chronometer wristwatch with Grand Feu dial, center seconds, certificate of origin, presentation box, and tie tag
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
2007
Reference No.
86122/000R
Movement No.
5’160’309
Case No.
1’143’858
Model Name
Chronomètre Royal
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1460SCC, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18k Pink Gold Vacheron Constantin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate $15,000-30,000 €12,900-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Certificate of Origin, Certificate of Authenticity signed by CEO Juan-Carlos Torres, and dated Geneva October 11th, 2007, official Swiss Chronometer Certification, and Rate Observation Table, tie tag, presentation box and outer packaging.
The limited edition reference 86122 is part of Vacheron Constantin’s iconic Royal Chronometer family of timepieces. For several decades in the early 20th century, Vacheron Constantin presented watches at observatory trials and competions, winning numerous prizes. The brand decided to offer to the public, precision-oriented watches meeting
the stringent accuracy requirements of the Observatories. In 1907, they launched the first pocket watch from the Royal Chronometer family, and over the course of time, the Geneva based manufacture’s quest for precision has been embodied by this line of COSC-certified timepieces with the 1953 addition of wristwatches housing exquisite, manual wind calibers 1007BS or 1008BS, and later with automatic movements such as the caliber 2460SC. The present pink gold, automatic Chronomètre Royal is one of just 100 examples produced in 2007 to celebrate the centenary of this now classic model. The exceptional movement was made in-house to exacting precision and demanding specifications with each timepiece submitted to the Official Chronometer Testing Authority for endurance and performance trials, and monitored for 700 consecutive hours after casing to ensure its high degree of accuracy. The 18K gold Grand Feu dial is white enamel with black and red hour numerals. The present example is in excellent overall condition, and a stunning celebration of one of the most sought after timepieces the brand has produced. Measuring a substantial 39 mm in diameter, the Chronomètre Royal has been sought after for its precision timing and classic appeal. This is an opportunity to own one of only 100 examples.
132.
Cartier — A brand new, very fine, and highly attractive pink gold limited edition asymmetrical wristwatch with certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
2020
Reference No.
WGTA0043; 4286
Case No.
No. 051/100
Model Name
Privé Collection Tank Asymétrique
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, ca. 1917 MC, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Cartier clasp
Dimensions
47mm Length by 26mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $15,000-30,000 Σ €12,900-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by blank Cartier certificate, inner fitted box, and outer presentation box.
Cartier relaunched its heralded Privé Collection in 2015 after a seven-year hiatus and has thus far re-introduced four classic forms of the brand’s twentieth-century watchmaking: the Crash, the Tonneau, the Tank Cintrée, and most recently, the Asymétrique. In April 2020, Cartier released the Privé Collection Tank Asymétrique during the online-only format of Watches & Wonders. Receiving much fanfare, the Asymétrique was offered in platinum, 18 karat pink gold, and 18 karat yellow gold, with only 100 examples to be produced in each metal.
The Asymétrique first appears in Cartier history in 1936; it was alternately called the “Losange” or “Parallélogramme”. Since the beginning of its history in both horology and joaillerie, Cartier has pushed the envelope of design, therefore it is unsurprising that they would adopt such a startling take on their classic Tank watch – shifting its borders until the square became a diamond. In 1996, before the Collection Privé Cartier Paris (CPCP) was established, a limited run of 300 pieces in yellow gold and 100 in platinum was released with the same alternating Arabic numerals and baton indexes as the original 1936 model. In 2006, under the CPCP collection, an updated Asymétrique was released with 150 pieces in yellow gold, featuring updated lugs and a guilloche dial with applied black Roman numerals. A few very limited iterations in platinum and a series to commemorate the handoff of Macau to China were also produced during this time period. The present example from 2020 is wrought in 18 karat pink gold, combined with a striking, radially-brushed anthracite grey dial with applied Arabic numerals and signature cabochon sapphire crown. Unworn and untouched, with all of its original accessories and booklets, retaining even its caseback stickers, those who missed out on them in 2020 finally have their chance to seize upon this captivating and striking timepiece. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
133.
A very rare and exceptional limited edition white gold tonneau-shaped minute repeating wristwatch with original certificate and presentation box, number 1, proceeds of the sale will benefit Chabad of Hunterdon County
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 2006
Movement No.
07C
Case No.
No.1
Model Name
Tortue
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 909MC
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
35.5mm Width, and 43mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $25,000-50,000 Σ €21,500-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by Cartier unsigned Certificate, red leather Collection Privée presentation box, leather envelop, product literature, and outer packaging.
Cartier is renowned for creating some of the most elegant timepieces and extravagant jewellery pieces amongst all brands. Their well-heeled clientele included top names from industry, entertainment, royalty and society. Cartier’s master craftsmen created some of the most memorable pieces known today. For example, they launched their tonneau-shaped wristwatch in 1906, which at the time was considered very daring. In addition to design innovation, Cartier was at the forefront with mechanical techniques including the creation of complicated timepieces from perpetual calendars to minute repeaters.
Minute repeaters are amongst the most prestigious and sought after in the field of collectors’ watches. They are rooted in a long tradition of striking timepieces, derived from early striking clocks that communicated time to residents in towns and villages several centuries ago. In the 19th century, repeating tall clocks and desk clocks were miniaturized so in the darkness of night one could activate their pocket watch and hear the time chimed. Since the early 20th century, Cartier and their movement makers such as European Watch and Clock Co., have been creating exceptional minute repeating watches, appreciated for their clarity and rich tone. The present, limited edition, white gold, tonneau-shaped minute repeating wristwatch, is from Cartier’s Privée Collection Paris (CPCP), launched in 1998. Exceptionally it is the very first example from the CPCP collection in white gold, with serial number 1. With the CPCP Collection, Cartier updated and modernized some of their most cherished and iconic wristwatches from the early part of the 20th century. This example is well-preserved in excellent condition, and complete with its original certificate and box - sure to please the most demanding collector. The watch is offered at auction for the first-time, having been donated to Chabad of Hunterdon County, which provides assistance and guidance to disadvantaged youth. Cartier minute repeating watches have long been the height of luxury and the present CPCP minute repeater is a wonderful example of Cartier’s exceptional design and watchmaking prowess.
CARTIER Tortue Minute Repeater “Number One”
134.
An early and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with oversized date, and power reserve, with original guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
Circa 1997
Reference No.
101.001
Case No.
113’057
Model Name
Lange 1
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. L901.0, 53 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold A. Lange & Söhne buckle
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate $30,000-60,000 Σ €25,700-51,500 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne guarantee, presentation box, A. Lange & Söhne service receipt dated July 10, 2020, product literature, and outer packaging.
A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 is a superb modern classic of 20th century horology. First released in 1994, the watch displays a classic contemporary look, which a quarter of a century later, has a sophisticated appeal for its design and technical innovation. The dial is clear and legible with the now famous patented oversized date apertures inspired by the Five-Minute Clock of the Semper Opera House in Dresden. The eccentric hours indication further set the brand apart from all others with their incredible vision. This very rare and early example is housed in a 38.5mm diameter case featuring a solid case back secured by six screws. Later, A. Lange & Söhne did away with solid case backs when Walter Lange decided it was a shame to hide the beauty of their movements. Today, the brand manufactures their timepieces mostly with a sapphire display back. The present first series reference 101.001 is in excellent overall condition, and was recently serviced by A. Lange & Söhne in 2020. The Lange 1 family of timepieces is an embodiment of German engineering and precision timekeeping, and this complete example is a “must-have” for the enthusiast of late 20th century horology.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Ref. 101.001 “Solid Caseback”
135.
An important, astonishing, and extremely rare pink gold limited edition one-minute tourbillon wristwatch with fusée chain, up/down indicator, and black dial
In 1845, founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange established his own workshop in Glashütte, Saxony. A. Lange & Söhne flourished for close to 100 years; however, its factories were sadly destroyed on the final day of World War II, and the brand itself would soon be confiscated by the Soviets. Following the demise of the Soviet Union and the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, Ferdinand’s great-grandson, Walter Lange, re-established the Glashütte-based brand in 1990. The first collection, comprised of four watches, was launched in 1994, revitalizing German watchmaking and leading to global recognition of the brand. The most complicated and technically aligned with the pre-WWII Lange & Söhne manufacture was the Pour Le Mérite. Lange took the tourbillon one step further by incorporating a fusée and chain mechanism for the first time ever in a wristwatch. Used to equalize the mainspring’s power, a fusée and chain was used on all 12 historic Lange tourbillon pocket watches produced by Walter’s ancestors. This complication optimizes the rate accuracy of the watch. The most famous of these twelve tourbillons, the reference 41000 “Jahrhundertourbillon” was exhibited at the Paris World Exhibition in 1900. The Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon is a direct descendent of the 41000, both technically and aesthetically, with the same finely constructed tourbillon carriage.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon
135.
An important, astonishing, and extremely rare pink gold limited edition one-minute tourbillon wristwatch with fusée chain, up/down indicator, and black dial
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
1994
Reference No.
701.011
Movement No.
421
Case No.
110’366; numbered 116/150
Model Name
Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 902.0, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold A. Lange & Söhne buckle
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $160,000-320,000 Σ €137,000-275,000 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne Certificate of Origin, fitted presentation box, and a deluxe, numbered copy of Peter Chong’s A. Lange & Söhne: The Pour le Mérite Collection.
Alongside the Lange 1, the Arkade, and the Saxonia, the Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon was released in 1994 as the inaugural collection of a revitalized A. Lange & Söhne and catalyzed German and Swiss mechanical watchmaking. The precision of the movements, level of detail to the finishing, and the Teutonic design principles were well-received by collectors. The movement itself has spawned many an effusive tribute; it is the work of renowned movement specialists Renaud and Papi, overseen by visionary Günther Blümlein, and even involved the know-how of two young Dutch brothers with the surname Grönefeld. The story goes that the call for development of such a movement went out only two weeks after the fall of the Berlin Wall. Only 24 examples of the Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon are known in pink gold. This especially rare example combines two unusual factory-original elements: a brushed caseband and the replacement of upright Arabic numerals for hour indexes with tiny diamond markers. Previously offered at Phillips’ WINNING ICONS sale in 2017, this PLM Tourbillon has been treasured by its owner for the past four years who decided to pass it on to another collector to enjoy as much or more than he has. An important collector, he obtained the Deluxe version of the remarkable, “A. Lange & Söhne: The ‘Pour le Mérite’ Collection” tome by Peter Chong – one of only 200 reserved exclusively for owners of the model. Remaining in wonderful, original condition, this is a superb and rare opportunity to own one of the most horologically and historically significant wristwatches of the modern era.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon
136.
Heuer — An attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black “MG” dial
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
Circa 1963
Reference No.
3647
Case No.
76’612
Model Name
Carrera, “MG”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, Valjoux 92, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Steel buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed
Estimate $5,000-10,000 €4,300-8,600
Heuer has long been associated with precision timekeeping with the founder Edouard Heuer patenting a chronograph in 1882, and receiving another for an oscillating pinion (1887) still in use today. Heuer chronographs have been used for timed events from the Olympics to the Grand Prix of Monaco, and today they are sought by collectors for their iconic designs and technical innovations. The Carrera, introduced in 1963, was a tribute to the Carrera Pan Americana automobile road rally in Mexico from 1950 to 1954, and considered the most dangerous and deadly car race at the time. Unlike the Heuer reference 2447 three register chronograph, the Carrera reference 3647 featured a sleek modern dial with two subsidiary dials, including a 45 minute register in place of the usual 30 minutes register - more in line with timing a football match than a fuel-injected automobile competition.
The two register model became known as the Carrera 45 with an upgraded Valjoux 92 caliber using Heuer’s patented oscillating pinion - a movement used by other top Swiss brands during the 1960s. The present example is a rare representation of the Carrera featuring the MG marque at 6 o’clock. M. G. Car Company Limited was a British sports car maker founded by Cecil Kimber in the 1920s and best known for their sporty, two-seater coupés. In addition to the MG marque, the dial features the name Bernard Odsess, the American importer of MG based in New Jersey. The watch is in excellent overall condition with a well-preserved case with strong proportions and sharp case lines as it left the factory. The black dial with two contrasting registers has aged beautifully with the luminous hour markers and hands faded to a light brown hue. Heuer chronographs are a reminder of the fine tool watches of the mid 20th-century, and today examples like this vintage Carrera are especially sought after. This black dial chronograph is all the more desirable with the MG marque and importer’s name. For car enthusiasts, it is a wonderful representation of the two worlds of horology and motorsports.
137.
Heuer — A fine and attractive stainless steel dual time chronograph wristwatch, retailed by Abercrombie & Fitch Co
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
2446C
Case No.
129’342
Model Name
Autavia GMT
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Valjoux 724, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed by maker, dial signed by retailer
Estimate $10,000-20,000 €8,600-17,200
Ed. Heuer & Co introduced the Autavia model in 1962 as their first chronograph wristwatch with a model name while earlier examples were only known by reference numbers. In 1968, Heuer introduced their first GMT chronograph with screw back case featuring a central, dual time hour hand with blue and red bezel. By 1969, the brand transitioned from the screw-back case to the compressor case, and like the present watch, featured the first execution black dial with three white subsidiary dials. The dial had “GMT” printed under the maker’s logo, and the bottom hour register was signed “T Swiss”. The red and blue bezel was re-designed to include 24 hours with the model featuring the Tritium matchstick hands found on the standard Autavia chronograph. The serial range for this selection of timepieces was 111XXX to 140XXX.
The present Autavia GMT is fresh-to-the-market, further distinguished by the Abercrombie & Fitch Co. retailer signature found at 6 o’clock. The original Abercrombie & Fitch founded in 1892 was known for their high-end outdoor gear for fishing and hunting, and were known as the store of choice for the true sports man. Heuer began to manufacture chronograph watches for the retailer in 1940, and they would become some of the most popular sports/tool watches for outdoor enthusiasts, found across a broad spectrum of Heuer models like the Auto-Mark, Auto-Graph, Solunar, Seafarer and Autavia GMT chronographs. In stunning original condition, this GMT has a crisp case with all of its original factory finishing and bevels well-preserved. The dial has beautifully aged with intact luminous hour markers and matching hands that have turned a warm, light-brownish hue. Mid-20th century steel tool watches are some of the most sought after in the market today, and the Autavia GMT is both functional and highly attractive. This watch is all the more alluring with the Abercrombie & Fitch Co retailer signature, and is a wonderful representation of some of the best watch manufacturing seen in the 1960s and 1970s.
A culturally and historically important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter bezel and bracelet, formerly owned by Ralph W. Ellison
His story begins in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma right before the dawn of World War I, in 1913. His mother names him after Ralph Waldo Emerson, with the hopes that he will one day become a poet. In his formative years, he experienced the death of his father at the age of three, the disappearance of the vibrant Black neighborhood in Tulsa known as Greenwood, which he passed through on his way to a better life in Gary, Indiana. Greenwood was wiped out when he returned to Oklahoma a few months later, razed to nothing by the ravages of the Tulsa Race Massacre of 1925. He endures the hardships of the Great Depression, a single mother raising him and his younger brother in Oklahoma. With the elemental guidance of his namesake always with him, he immerses himself in literature as diverse and varied as Mark Twain, Herman Melville, James Joyce, William Faulkner, Dostoyevsky, Thomas Hardy, T.S. Eliot (a later direct inspiration for the novel that would define him), and Richard Wright. Speaking later in life about his childhood love of literature, Ellison says, “And always, I was the hero. I identified with the hero. Literature is integrated. And I’m not just talking about color, race. I’m talking about the power of literature to make us recognize again and again the wholeness of the human experience.” In 1933, he hops on a train to Alabama, to the renowned Tuskegee Institute, admitted for lack of a trumpet player in their celebrated orchestra, where he studies for three years before departing to New York City in order to earn money to complete his studies. He never returns. Instead, he is immersed in the culture of Harlem in the 1930s, the dynamic and thriving unofficial capital of Black America at the time. He meets Langston Hughes, arguably the most successful Black author of the era, who inspires him to write his first short story (and coincidentally, introduces him to his wife). After a short stint in the U.S. Merchant Marine during World War II, he sets to work on creating Invisible Man - his masterpiece. it would eventually become known as a genre-defying bildungsroman, a literary encapsulation of the American sociocultural experience so profound and perpetually relevant that even now, sixty years after its publication date, it is still widely read the world over. He begins work on Invisible Man in 1945 and it takes him seven years to complete what would be the only novel published during his lifetime. In a small country house in Vermont and in an apartment in the Diamond District in Manhattan, he works on a typewriter, encouraged, sometimes sternly, by his indefatigable wife Fanny. Upon publication, it becomes an instant success. The Canadian-American author and critic, and later friend of Ellison, Saul Bellows, wrote immediately after its release in 1952, “it is tragi-comic, poetic, the tone of the very strongest sort of creative intelligence.”
Time and time again, we turn to Invisible Man to better understand our present and ourselves. Ellison encompasses not only the Black experience in America, but the American experience itself – the problem of invisibility is not the provenance of one race or culture. The dilution of reality that runs through Invisible Man only serves to make those important moments more visceral. The magnitude of his impact on American literature, culture, and even the arts, cannot be understated. For example, renowned contemporary artists such as Kerry James Marshall created important paintings inspired by Invisible Man, with the ideas of visibility and invisibility in society influencing his artwork. Ellison sought to transcend the narrow definition of what he was supposed to be writing and who he was supposed to be writing for. Reading Invisible Man with the added lens of a watch enthusiast, watches, clocks, and time are clear motifs appearing throughout the novel. Used as props during key narratives, they are detailed with such nuanced understanding that it’s clear that Ellison was familiar with and perhaps even intrigued by timekeeping and timekeepers. Later in the novel, after receiving Brother Tarp’s leg shackles from his prison sentence, the narrator muses on this unlikely yet deeply poignant gift: “I looked at the dark band of metal against my fist and dropped it upon the anonymous letter. I neither wanted it nor knew what to do with it; although there was no question of keeping it if for no other reason than that I felt that Brother Tarp’s gesture in offering it was of some deeply felt significance which I was compelled to respect. Something perhaps, like a man passing on to his son his own father’s watch, which the son accepted not because he wanted the old-fashioned timepiece for itself, but because of the overtones of unstated seriousness and solemnity of the paternal gesture which at once joined him with his ancestors, marked a high point of his present, and promised a concreteness to his nebulous and chaotic future. And now I remembered if I had returned home instead of coming north my father would have given me my grandfather’s old-fashioned Hamilton, with its long burr-headed winding stem.” Not only did Ellison understand the connotation of hereditary significance watches can have – keeping in mind Ellison’s own father died when he was quite young – and the emotional weight they can carry, he could speak of specific watches eloquently and descriptively. As a man apart from time, “aloof” like one of his idols Faulkner, he endured criticism for not conforming to what is expected of him. After the success of Invisible Man, he spends time lecturing both nationally and internationally, writing short stories and critical essays, and humbly accepting the gamut of
© Bob Adelman
138.
138.
A culturally and historically important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter bezel and bracelet, formerly owned by Ralph W. Ellison
OMEGA Ref. 145.012 Speedmaster Professional “Ralph W. Ellison”
literary distinctions. He is an avid musician, particularly jazz, and photographer – a Hasselbad to be exact – a dog enthusiast, a cigar aficionado. His home on the Upper West Side overlooking Riverside Park is filled with African idols, framed prints, thousands of books and clippings. He wears impeccably tailored suits and tuxedos, and a well-groomed moustache. On his wrist, beginning in the summer of 1968, an Omega Speedmaster reference 145.012-67 – the present lot. Though we were unable, through our research, to ascertain whether Ellison received this Speedmaster as a gift or purchased it himself, we do know that shortly after the watch was delivered to the United States in 1968, as the Omega Archive Extract confirms, Ellison was interviewed and photographed in Riverside Park wearing the watch. He would wear it for the remainder of his life, even when the top chronograph pusher had fallen off. The Speedmaster would be present on his wrist, often slipped under the cuff of a nattily tailored suit, paired with the curl of cigar smoke, for the next twenty-five years, until his death from pancreatic cancer in 1994. After the death of his wife in 2005 and the presumed disbursement of the rest of the Ellison estate, the watch would eventually be sold at a small auction house in Long Island City in 2016, where it was purchased, unexpectedly, by the current consignor who was merely looking for an all-original example of the reference, rather than a monumental and historical wristwatch. Only the introductory lot text, listing its provenance as from “The Ralph and Fanny Ellison Charitable Trust,” and the missing pusher, which matched some blurry images of Ellison wearing the watch, gave any clue that this watch was indeed Ellison’s.
138.
A culturally and historically important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter bezel and bracelet, formerly owned by Ralph W. Ellison
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1968
Reference No.
145.012-67 SP
Movement No.
25’008’312; movement additionally stamped OXG
Model Name
Speedmaster Professional
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega bracelet, endlinks stamped 516, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp, reference
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
1039, no. 13, stamped 4.67
Estimate $10,000-20,000 €8,600-17,200 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of this watch March 15th, 1968 and subsequent delivery to the United States.
Enlisting the help of renowned journalist Michael Clerizo, eventually the consignor located, deep in the Ralph Ellison Archives kept at the Library of Congress, copies of Ralph and Fanny Ellison’s insurance statements where the exact serial number of the watch had been consistently recorded. Armed with this indisputable provenance, Phillips is now humbled and honored to present the cherished Speedmaster of an icon of American literature. The watch is crisp, though the dial has experienced minor aging that is typical in these references. The consignor carefully serviced the watch, where only the movement was cleaned and adjusted, a period-correct chronograph pusher installed, and the gasket and crystal replaced to ensure water resistance. The original crystal, in fact, accompanies the watch. Otherwise, it is in its original state of preservation as purchased from the auction house, almost exactly as it had been worn by Ellison for the twenty-five years it was in his possession.
Source: Library of Congress
OMEGA Ref. 145.012 Speedmaster Professional “Ralph W. Ellison”
139.
An exceptional and important stainless steel anti-magnetic diver’s wristwatch with humidity indicator
Manufacturer
Tornek-Rayville
Year
Circa 1964
Reference No.
TR-900
Case No.
0006
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. AS 1361, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Nylon NATO
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Movement and dial signed Tornek-Rayville, inside caseback stamped Tornay Watch Co., movement additionally stamped FOG.
Estimate $50,000-100,000 €42,900-85,800
Today, the TR-900 is one of the rarest and most sought-after military watches for collectors. Delivered in two batches, one in late 1964 and the other in mid-1966, a total of about 1,000 watches conforming to U.S. military specification MIL-W22176A were provided by Blancpain through their American subsidiary, Tornek-Rayville. Due to the 1933 “Buy American Act”, the U.S. Navy could not directly purchase Swiss Blancpain watches. Allen V. Tornek, of the Allen V. Tornek Co. based in New York City, was an importer of Blancpain and won a bid to be the American supplier of Blancpain for the U.S. Navy. Despite passing the technical tests, the model was considered too expensive and the project was abandoned.
A few years later, Alan Tornek proposed a new offer and “Tornek Rayville”-branded batch of Blancpain-supplied watches to the US Navy. Cautiously, Tornek Rayville only delivered a very small amount, which proved to be a safe bet as the US Navy ultimately cancelled the project due to its cost. Impressively well-preserved, with the red dot that had previously sealed the case shut still present and clearly unpolished, the present example also bears the number “0006” crisply etched on the caseback. Such an early number has not ever been publicly seen, and to find one “in the wild” is completely unprecedented. This fresh-to-the-market TR-900 comes to Phillips with an interesting story. Like many during the pandemic, the consignors of the present lot, confronted with being cooped up in their house for the then-forseeable future, decided to do a bit of pandemic cleaning. Hunting through old items that had been stored for decades, they discovered a box of items that had been packed away while the consignor was still in high school in the 1970s. After speaking to the consignor, he can remember playing with the watch as a kid (the luminous bezel and dial specifically stood out to him, and he remembers it never having a strap), but not the exact origin, as none of their relatives served in the Navy during Vietnam. While the true origins may remain shrouded in mystery, the watch has remained dormant and untouched, for half a century, before coming directly to Phillips. We are honored to present such an exceptional example of this already rare military reference.
TORNEK-R AY V ILLE
TR-900
140.
An early and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, Extract from the Archives, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1959
Reference No.
2915-2
Movement No.
15’997’871
Model Name
Speedmaster “Broad Arrow”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega partially extensible ladder bracelet, end links stamped no. 6, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp, stamped 1.59
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $50,000-100,000 €42,900-85,800 Accessories Accompanied by period-correct Omega presentation box with corduroy interior. Further accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch and its subsequent delivery to Venezuela on January 30, 1959.
In the field of wristwatches, the Speedmaster is a true icon, and universally acknowledged as the most historically important model made by Omega. Its history spans over sixty years with the very first Speedmaster launched in 1957, having slowly and gracefully evolved through the decades with a variety of dial, hand, bezel, and bracelet variations. Today’s modern Speedmaster line has unmistakable ties to the original. The firstgeneration model, reference CK 2915, is considered by collectors as “the grail” for a number of reasons. In terms of design, it was the first chronograph to feature a tachymeter scale (or, as Omega called it at the time, the Tacho-productometer scale) on the bezel, rather than on the dial. In terms of movements, Omega did not go for a brand new caliber, turning instead to caliber 321, an extremely robust and reliable column-wheel chronograph, which it recognized as the best available option for its new Speedmaster model.
In production only between 1957 and 1959, the reference 2915 was produced in three different iterations: -1, -2, and -3. CK2915-1 and -2 are the very first – and most collectible Speedmaster models. They have unique differences from all later generations of Speedmasters, most notably in their dial graphics and important elements of case design. The large, “Broad Arrow” minute and hour hands are one such trait, but also the metal bezel - rather than a bezel with black insert - and slightly different dial graphics, distinguishable by the oval “O” of Omega. This oval would later become perfectly round. Also the case has details which would later be abandoned, such as the “Speedmaster” designation engraved on the beveled, outer edge of the case back rather than on the center, and the hippocampus engraving would be added later. The present lot, a reference 2915-2, belongs to the second iteration of the first generation of Speedmasters, fitted with all of its original parts exhibiting all of the early details collectors adore. The first is the rare Base 1000 metal bezel, followed by the dial configuration. The Omega signature features the iconic “fat” O followed by the slightly longer “r” in the Speedmaster signature, and the caseback bears a crisp “Speedmaster” engraving on the edge of the caseback. Preserved in exceptional overall condition, it comes with its period correct Omega presentation box with corduroy interior and gold-stamped seahorse on the top of the box. According to the Omega Extract from the Archives, this reference 2915-2 was delivered to Venezuela in the first month of 1959, perfectly matching the 1.59 stamp on its partiallyextensible Omega bracelet.
OMEGA Ref. 2915-2 Speedmaster
141.
A. Lange & Söhne — A fine limited edition platinum wristwatch with power reserve, made for the 100th anniversary of the Wempe Chronometer manufactory, numbered 23 of 100
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
Circa 2005
Reference No.
304.049
Movement No.
50’081
Case No.
160’123
Model Name
Grosse Langematik Gangreserve
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 921.6, 42 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
40.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate $15,000-30,000 €12,900-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne International Guarantee stamped Wempe and dated January 2006, wooden Limited Edition A. Lange & Söhne and Wempe presentation box, product literature and outer packaging.
Founded in 1845, A. Lange & Söhne has been synonymous for mechanical innovation and precision timing with an entrepreneurial spirit revealing their founder’s, Ferdinand Adolph Lange, commitment to aesthetics, intricacy and complexity in watchmaking. From their beginnings in Glashütte Saxony to their demise during World War II, and their ultimate resurrection by the founder’s great grandson Walter Lange in the 1990s, the brand has been sought after by collectors for technical engineering. The present Grosse Langematik Gangreserve is a wonderful collaboration with famed retailer Wempe with whom the brand has long been associated.
Ferdinand Lange sought to transform the Glashütte region into a dominant force in German watchmaking. In 1875, Deutsche Seewarte, the Naval Observatory in Hamburg, organised a chronometry competition to encourage the manufacture of German chronometers, leading to A. Lange & Söhne’s production of approximately 1000 chronometers for almost 70 years. A. Lange & Söhne manufactured marine chronometers for Wempe, which in 1938 took control of the company ChronometerWerke GmbH, founded in 1905. The Grosse Langematik Gangreserve model celebrated the centenary of the founding of the Wempe Chronometer Manufactory. It was based on one of A. Lange & Söhne’s best known examples, a large observation clock from 1935, no. 83193. The limited edition models released in 2005 were offered in 100 platinum examples like the present timepiece, along with 100 yellow gold wristwatches, as well as 25 pink gold timepieces sold exclusively through the Wempe Boutique in New York, in celebration of the boutique’s 25th anniversary. The 1935 clock was the inspiration for this wonderful wristwatch, however the model has a modern appeal with a classic dial and the 1815 collection’s signature railway outer minute track. The present wristwatch is in excellent overall condition and complete with its accessories. This is a rare opportunity to own a watch that is steeped in the history of a brand that has long been known for its horological excellence.
142.
Audemars Piguet — A fine and attractive pink gold wristwatch with date and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 2010
Reference No.
15300
Movement No.
811’186
Case No.
No. 5232, H26’071
Model Name
Royal Oak
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal.3120, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold “AP” deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $15,000-30,000 Σ €12,900-25,700 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confirming registration of this watch on October 27th, 2011 and wooden presentation box.
The Royal Oak was the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet. Audemars Piguet sought famed designer Gerald Genta, who developed a brilliantly engineered monobloc case, with a distinctively maritime feel featuring an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal white gold screws. Designed overnight in response to a request for an “unprecedented steel watch”, it was at the same time the most expensive stainless steel watch ever made. Since the Royal Oak’s launch in 1972, the model
has undergone various design changes, and upgraded with complications with early iterations featuring the automatic caliber 2121 based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920 and finished by Audemars Piguet. In 2005 the brand introduced a new model the reference 15300, which featured a new inhouse movement the caliber 3120. AP’s new automatic movement was a superbly conceived and well-executed caliber with numerous novel features including a sixty-hour power reserve relying on only one barrel, a Gyromax, free-sprung balance held in place via a bridge and a date mechanism equipped with a safety system preventing the date disk from blocking if the owner tried to manually reset the date at midnight. The reference 15300 remained in production until 2012 when it was replaced by the reference 15400 with a larger 41mm diameter case compared to the 39mm diameter case found on the 15300 and the original Royal Oak, which at the time was considered large for wristwatch and was nicknamed the “Jumbo”. The present example is in excellent original condition with a crisp case and flawless silvered dial. The reference 15300 is considered by many as the quintessential modern Royal Oak, having found the perfect equilibrium between iconic design and modern mechanics. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
143.
An attractive limited edition white gold wristwatch with fusée-and-chain, and guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
Circa 2017
Reference No.
260.028
Movement No.
110’731
Case No.
No. 17/218, 229’417
Model Name
Richard Lange Pour le Mérite
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. L044.1, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold A. Lange & Söhne buckle
Dimensions
40.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, diameter, movement and buckle signed
Estimate $50,000-100,000 Σ €42,900-85,800 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne guarantee dated March 8th, 2017, wooden fitted presentation box, leather envelope, product literature, and outer packaging.
Richard Lange was F. A. Lange’s eldest son who joined his father’s firm in 1868 as factory director, and like his father, he was a passionate watchmaker who sought to advance precision timing with mechanical finesse. During his tenure, the firm patented complications from split-seconds chronographs to dead-beat seconds timepieces, as well as patent number 9349 for an up/down power reserve indicator. In 1994 the firm was re-established by Walter Lange, great-grandson of the founder, with a collection of four wristwatches representing the company’s principles of craftsmanship, technical
innovation and modern design. As a tribute to Richard Lange, the firm in 2006 released a collection with his name featuring a time only wristwatch with center seconds, made in the four precious metals. The 40.5mm diameter case was robust with a clean engineered appeal, and angular lugs. The dial was easily readable, and the overall refined appearance honoured Richard Lange and his work to produce technical masterpieces with a pure design. In 2009, A. Lange and Söhne introduced their new model the reference 260.025 Richard Lange Pour le Mérite wristwatch with fusée-and-chain mechanism and white enamel dial. In 2016, the brand updated the model with the limited edition reference 260.028, which was produced in 218 examples numbering the total of their world-wide authorised dealers. The present model, number 17, sports a black dial with red dots at the quarter hours, and has a more contemporary 21st century appeal when compared to the earlier white enamel edition. Turning the wristwatch over, the sapphire crystal displays the technical mastery of A. Lange & Söhne with their traditional three-quarter plate movement, gold chatons, and engraved balance cock, as well as the 636-piece, hand assembled fusée-and-chain mechanism, which counteracts a decrease in torque as the mainspring unwinds. The present example is in excellent condition, and complete with accessories. The modernity of the Richard Lange collection, like all A. Lange & Söhne models is inspired by their past, and this is an opportunity for a savvy collector to own a prestigious limited timepiece by one of the most respected watch manufacturers today.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Richard Lange Pour Le Mérite
144.
A rare and striking limited edition stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with rubber bezel, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2010
Reference No.
26298SK.OO.D101CR.01
Movement No.
730’122
Case No.
H18386-0181; numbered 181/250
Model Name
Royal Oak Offshore “57th Street Limited Edition”
Material
Stainless steel, rubber
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2326/2840, 50 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $15,000-25,000 Σ €12,900-21,500 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Garantie dated August 11th, 2014, Certificate de Garantie booklet, instruction manual, special 57th Street Limited Edition inner presentation box, outer packaging, and hang tag.
With a glamorous address on 57th street between Park Avenue and Fifth Avenue in Manhattan, the Audemars Piguet boutique has welcomed tourists and resident New Yorkers alike since its opening in 2010. To commemorate this new addition to Audemars Piguet’s worldwide network of boutiques, they released a limited-edition Royal Oak Offshore in stainless steel with a rubber bezel and rose gold accents, complete with a special caseback engraving and presentation box.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore was the firm’s answer to the ever-changing tastes of contemporary watch collectors. The original Royal Oak was introduced in 1972, in one of the most iconoclastic marketing moves to ever be seen in the industry. The Offshore, introduced in 1993, features a much larger and thicker case dimension and was first released as a chronograph wristwatch with date, navy blue dial and an integrated bracelet. It was designed to appeal to a younger, modern category of collectors. The first Royal Oak Offshore to feature a rubber bezel premiered in 2002, and the present 57th Street Limited Edition pays homage to this earlier model, with a rubber rather than a ceramic or metal bezel. Including rubber in this model can be seen as a nod to the earliest Offshore, nicknamed “The Beast”, which featured therban-coated chronograph pushers and crown (therban, or hydrogenated nitrile butadiene rubber copolymer, is a type of rubber engineered to be more resistant to heat, abrasion, pressure, and extreme temperatures). This timepiece reflects both the grit and the glamour of New York City, with the utilitarian rubber bezel contrasting with the rose gold elements of the dial. Instead of being outlined in gold and filled with Superluminova, as is typical with Offshores, the oversized Arabic numerals are entirely rendered from brushed rose gold. The subdials are further outlined in rose gold, all against a black matte mega-tapisserie dial. The present Royal Oak Offshore 57th Street Limited Edition comes from the collection of the original owner, in barely-worn condition, and is fully complete with all its original accessories. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
AUDEMARS PIGUET Ref. 26298SK Royal Oak Offshore Limited Edition for 57th Street
145.
A spectacular and dazzling white gold and diamond-set limited edition chronograph wristwatch with date, accompanied by certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2012
Reference No.
26271BC.ZZ.D002CR.01
Movement No.
761’382
Case No.
G74414; No. 37 of 60
Model Name
Royal Oak Offshore Limited Edition “Las Vegas
Material
18K white gold and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3126/3840, 59 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Even for someone who has never set foot there, the mere mention of the Las Vegas Strip immediately evokes a sense of glitz, of glittering neon lights, and illuminated fountains that so many associate with Las Vegas itself. Audemars Piguet sought to capture that essence and transmute it into a watch – and thus, the Royal Oak Offshore Limited Edition “Las Vegas Strip” was born.
Strip”
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold and diamond-set Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate $40,000-80,000 Σ €34,300-68,700 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Garantie dated 15th August 2012, instruction manual and user guide, two packs of Audemars Piguet playing cards, custom Vegas-themed fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
Part of a gendered pair of limited edition releases, the present reference 26271BC is one of only sixty pieces manufactured at the time. Set with 369 brilliant-cut diamonds on a substantial 18K white gold case, it exudes luxury and opulence unlike anything else. The diamonds are of immensely high quality, even in color and size and fit harmoniously throughout the case, which at 37mm, is actually of a size that is not too brash, but not too petite. The black crocodile strap with red contrast stitching plays off the colors in the dial, and the therban rubber coated chronograph pushers harken to the original Royal Oak Offshore, “The Beast”. The colors of the dial draw a clear line to the imagery of the Las Vegas Strip – a dark desert sky illuminated by twinkling stars and neon lights, or a black grand tapisserie dial with neon red accents and brilliant-cut diamond indexes. Consigned by the original owner and preserved in beautiful, unpolished condition, and with its full suite of Vegas-themed accessories – including a set of Audemars Piguet playing cards and a Vegas themed presentation box – this is an exceptionally rare opportunity to obtain an ultra-cool iteration of the Royal Oak Offshore. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
AUDEMARS PIGUET Ref. 26191BC Royal Oak Offshore Las Vegas Strip
146.
A heavy and impressive platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphase, leap year indicator, platinum bracelet, and certificate
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1994
Reference No.
25751PT
Movement No.
375’448
Case No.
Numbered 8; D11255
Model Name
Huitième Quantième Perpetuel Automatique
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2126/2839, 51 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 215mm
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Audemars Piguet double folding
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
deployant clasp
Estimate $20,000-40,000 €17,200-34,300 Accessories Accompanied by original Certificate of Origin and Guarantee, factory service box, and service travel box.
When one thinks of the most wearable of grand complications, the perpetual calendar chronograph with moonphase immediately comes to mind. Immensely useful functions are beautifully and logically displayed on the broad dial, while the timing mechanism of the chronograph allows daily tasks to be monitored easily. When powered by an automatic movement, in this case the caliber 2126 / 2839 based on a JaegerLeCoultre ebauche and Dubois Depraz module, it becomes eminently more efficient. This absolutely impressive Audemars Piguet Huitiéme from 1994 is cased entirely in platinum with a solid caseback and fitted with a spectacular platinum five-link bracelet that will fit up to an 8 inch wrist. The dial is a splendid denim blue color, subtle enough to be worn every day but unique enough to set the wearer apart from the pack. Purchased by an important collector from Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction: THREE sale in November 2016, he subsequently purchased all of the last remaining platinum bracelet links directly from Audemars Piguet, allowing the watch to fit even the largest wrist sizes. The present Audemars Piguet reference 25751PT on full platinum bracelet is further offered freshly serviced by Audemars Piguet, and is complete with its original Certificate of Origin and Guarantee.
AUDEMARS PIGUET Ref. 25751PT Huitième Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
147.
A very rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with bracelet, Extract from the Archives and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1977
Reference No.
5402ST
Movement No.
173’294
Case No.
C1428
Model Name
Royal Oak, “C Series”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2121C, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet link bracelet, max length 160mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $30,000-60,000 €25,700-51,500 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confirming registration of the present watch December 2, 1977, leather presentation box, and Audemars Piguet service receipt dated June 6, 2019.
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak is without a doubt the brand’s most recognizable timepiece. Along with Patek Philippe’s Nautilus model, and the reference 222 by Vacheron Constantin, these Swiss manufacturers sought to respond to the quartz crisis of the 1970s by redefining what a luxury watch can be, setting the world on fire with these creations over the last four decades. Released in 1972, the Royal Oak was the most expensive stainless steel watch ever produced at the time, costing more money to produce than their white gold
dress wristwatches due to the difficulty in finishing stainless steel to their exceptional standard. Audemars Piguet commissioned famed designer Gerald Genta for the Royal Oak’s creation, who developed a brilliantly engineered, monobloc case, with a distinctively maritime feel, featuring an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal, white gold screws, and a dial with tapisserie motif. So groundbreaking was the concept, the brand’s competitors believed the watch would bankrupt the company, however the Royal Oak went on to become a design icon, and today accounts for over 70% of the brand’s sales. The Royal Oak housed the extra slim caliber 2121, and also used by Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin in their Nautilus and 222 models. When first released, the Royal Oak reference 5402 featured the “AP” logo at 6 o’clock, compared with later examples with the “AP” logo positioned at 12 o’clock. Collectors today denote the “series” of the watch by the case number prominently seen on the case back with the earliest models referred to as “A-Series”. The present example from 1977 with case number “C1428” is part of the original “C” series. The watch became known amongst collectors as “Jumbo” due to the 39mm diameter case, which at the time was considered large compared to gentlemen’s dress watches of the time, most of which measured between 33 and 35 mm in diameter. Presented in excellent overall condition, and with Extract from the Archives, this Royal Oak is a wonderful example of the now iconic model. Its history as the first modern luxury sports watch, along with its timeless aesthetic, makes it a superb choice for the connoisseur.
AUDEMARS PIGUET
Ref. 5402 Royal Oak Jumbo “C Series”
148.
A very rare and technically impressive zirconium wristwatch with central date, six-day power reserve, certificate, and presentation box
Manufacturer
De Bethune
Year
2015
Reference No.
DB27ZS8
Movement No.
DB.G.003.050
Case No.
No. 016
Model Name
Titan Hawk
Material
Zirconium
Calibre
Automatic, cal. S233, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Zirconium De Bethune pin buckle
Dimensions
43mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $15,000-25,000 Σ €12,900-21,500 Accessories Accompanied by De Bethune Certificate of Origin and Warranty dated 15 December 2015, instruction booklet, travel case, presentation box, and dust cloth.
For Denis Flageollet, the co-founder of De Bethune as well as its master watchmaker, innovation is the guiding principle of watchmaking. Rather than simply modifying or improving traditional techniques, he takes a precise mathematical and scientific approach with regards to the technical process, case and movement architecture, and finishing of each of his watches. All this results in some of the most visually striking
and masterful products in contemporary horology. Since its inception in 2002, De Bethune has given birth to over thirty in-house calibers and a dozen patent registrations, constantly debuting new and exciting innovations. Combining elements of the DB25 and DB28, the present DB27 “Titan Hawk” in zirconium - a scratch proof and incredibly difficult to work with metal - is deceptive in its simplicity. Though it only displays the hour, minutes, and date, there is far more to this watch than meets the eye. The dial, with its layered surfaces and concentric circles, provides a playful complement for the black matte case. The case features a spring-loaded floating lug system enabling the watch to adapt to any size wrist for ease of wear. The movement is a marvel of finesse and technology, including many of the De Bethune inhouse developed innovations, like the patented self-regulating twin barrel, silicon and white gold balance, the balance spring with flat terminal curve, the triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, the titanium/platinum oscillating weight, and the silicon escape-wheel which can be admired via the porthole in the back. The watch also boasts a six-day power reserve. Fittingly, only 27 pieces of the DB27 were made in zirconium, a material used in protective cladding for nuclear reactor fuels due to its high resistance to heat. Thus, only very few opportunities to own and enjoy this timepiece exist, and the current, pristine lot in absolutely new, unworn condition with all of its original accessories, is sure to excite the forwardthinking and adventurous collector.
DE BETHUNE
DB27 Titan Hawk
149.
A cutting-edge and impressive limited edition titanium wristwatch with suspended balance, date, and power reserve indicator, accompanied by guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
MB&F
Year
2017
Case No.
No. 14/33; 04T51273
Model Name
Legacy Machine Split Escapement (LM SE)
Material
Titanium
Calibre
Manual, developed by MB&F x Stephen McDonnell, 35 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Titanium deployant clasp
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $40,000-80,000 €34,300-68,700
If the Horological Machines are Maximilian Büsser’s attempt to rework the way one conceptualizes and visualizes time, then the Legacy Machine is his way to retell and reinterpret the narrative of traditional watchmaking on his own terms. After several iterations of Horological Machines that greatly stymied the collecting community, in 2012 Büsser introduced the Legacy Machine, his first classically round wristwatch that still managed to defy contemporary trends. In 2017, MB&F released this fourth iteration of the Legacy Machine, following the LM 1, LM 2, LM 101, and LM Perpetual. Four limited releases each with different dial colors were released in 18 karat white gold, and one limited edition series, the present example being number 14 thereof, in titanium with teal dial.
The present Split Escapement retains the design codes of the Legacy Machines with domed crystal, white lacquered subdials, oversized 14mm balance suspended over the dial and held in place by an arch shaped bridge, and superlative finishing throughout. However, it differentiates itself from its siblings by the fact that other than the balance, every other element of the escapement has been cleverly hidden. The anchor and escape wheel are in fact concealed on the opposite side of the movement, almost 12 mm below, a technical feat using an 11.78mm long balance staff connecting the balance wheel to the pallet fork. Exquisite finishing is found throughout the movement, with each part meticulously shaped, angled, and covered in Geneva stripes. For this movement, Max Büsser teamed up with Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, who he had previously worked with for the LM Perpetual, to create this convergence of traditional Swiss watchmaking and rogue futuristic design. An incredibly daunting task requiring tight tolerances to function and extreme skills to assemble, it features 72 hours of power reserve. To match the high-end reverse of the watch, the iridescent, textured teal dial was created using PECVD, or plasmaenhanced chemical vapor deposition, a technique wherein metal is vaporized using a chemical reaction and then a thin layer covers the surface of the dial. The combination is a magnificent vista of shimmering aqua, with a light texture almost resembling a fine guilloché. Offered here in flawless condition and its full set of original accessories, the watch was part of a limited release of 33 pieces. Please note that MB&F generously offers a complimentary service of the watch to the successful bidder.
MB&F
Legacy Machine
150.
A highly rare and vibrant titanium and pink gold limited edition chronograph wristwatch with 100th of a second, 20-second, 10-minute registers, Certificate, and presentation box made to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the F.P. Journe Boutique in Hong Kong
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2016
Reference No.
CTT
Case No.
No. 10/20
Model Name
Centigraphe Souverain Anniversary –
Material
Titanium and 18K pink gold
Hong Kong Boutique Calibre
Manual, cal. 1506, 50 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold F.P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap, and buckle signed.
Estimate $40,000-80,000 Σ €34,300-68,700 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe Certificate and warranty stamped 7 October 2016 from the F.P. Journe Hong Kong boutique confirming this watch is number 10 of a limited edition of 20, inner fitted presentation box, and outer packaging. Additional calf leather strap signed F.P. Journe included.
F.P Journe opened its Hong Kong boutique in 2006, located in the Prince’s Building in Central. To celebrate the tenth anniversary of its Hong Kong and Tokyo boutiques in 2016, the brand instituted a new tradition of releasing a limited run of the Centigraphe Anniversaire for the tenth anniversary of each of their boutiques. Thirty percent of the original purchase of each Centigraphe Anniversaire went to the ICM (Institute of Brain and Spinal Cord in Paris), and this includes the profits of future CTTs for the Journe boutiques in Los Angeles, Miami, Beirut, Kiev, and Dubai. Each caseback is engraved with their unique reference number, ‘CTT’, and the boutique’s hometown. Otherwise, they are visually similar though nevertheless spectacularly rendered in an array of colors and finishing.
A 40mm polished titanium case acts as the frame for the magnificent, ingenious, and intricate dial, paired with an 18K pink gold crown and rocker (allowing the user to stop-start-reset the chronograph with a single finger). The subdials are openworked to reveal the gears and levers powering the chronograph mechanism; each opening covered with a thin layer of translucent sapphire. Each small hand is red-lacquered titanium, with matching numerals within the subdials, while the hour numerals are a muted orange that corresponds perfectly to the handset, pink gold crown, and ergonomic pink gold rocker. The dial is a single disc of white gold coated in ruthenium, a dark contrast to the brightly colored accents. The Centigraphe Anniversaire features Journe’s innovative, inhouse manually-wound chronograph capable of measuring down to one hundredth of a second. When the chronograph function is engaged, the 100th of a second hand at 10 o’clock, released by the watch’s escapement, completes one revolution per second. Once the chronograph is stopped, this hand can be stopped anywhere, allowing even a fractional 100th of a second reading. Along with the high-grade caliber 1506, the case uses a rocker stop/reset button, which allows the wearer’s fingers to stay in the same place to keep time, allowing for more precise use of the chronograph. Each subsidiary dial is marked “S” or “M” and “PR” for Seconds or Minutes Per Revolution. The Centigraphe Souverain, the regular production Centigraphe, was discontinued in 2018; therefore, the Centigraphe Anniversaire is the only iteration currently being produced outside of the Linesport collection. Preserved in as-new condition with all of its original accessories, the merits of this highly exclusive, vibrant, and innovative timepiece cannot be understated.
F.P. JOURNE Centigraphe Hong Kong Boutique
151.
A unique, artistic, and innovative platinum dual time wristwatch with power reserve, engraved and enameled hinged caseback, accompanied by certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Voutilainen
Year
2015
Movement No.
GMT-R-02/12
Case No.
Unique Piece
Model Name
Vingt-8 GMR “Unique Piece”
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, in-house caliber, 28 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap, and buckle signed.
Estimate $60,000-120,000 Σ €51,500-103,000 Accessories Accompanied by original warranty certificate dated April 2015, watch display box numbered certificate, service booklet, polishing cloth, fitted wooden presentation box made from American walnut and black-stained pear, dust cover, and outer packaging.
Kari Voutilainen is not only an extremely gifted watchmaker but also a talented designer who controls every aspect of the creation of his watches. Not only are all the movement components (other than hairspring and jewels), dials and hands developed in house, but also made, finished and assembled by Voutilainen and his small team of watchmakers. The Kari Voutilainen Vingt-8 GMR was introduced in 2015 as an update to the GMT-6, adding a power reserve to the already aesthetically powerful, overbuilt, and beautifully finished watch.
With the quintessential hand-guillochéd dial wrought in solid silver, the power reserve is added above the oversized pomme hands at 12 o’clock, in this execution with striking red accents. The dial is a matte anthracite grey with applied white gold Roman numerals, and the red accents are subtle yet distinctive against the cooler tones of the platinum case and grey dial. The new caliber with integrated GMT and power reserve function is made from German silver and rhodium-plated, with Cötes de Genève and beveled chamfers all finished by hand. The apparently simple movement features a complex direct impulse escapement enabling a more constant distribution of energy. Furthermore, the extra-large balance allows fine regulation of the watch using a rare balance spring system with the exterior of the spring employing a Breguet overcoil, while the internal end uses the little known Grossmann curve. All this is hidden behind a hinged caseback, decorated spectacularly with a unique vitreous blue enameled artwork depicting the splendors of the circus. With lithe figures engraved in platinum depicting the different trademark events of the circus, they hover almost above the actual caseback, suspended in the beautiful enamel. The intricate hand engraving is likely done by Eddy Jaquet whereas the enamel work, also called pique à jour, is done by Inès Hamaguchi, two respected artists having worked with the greatest brands in the creation of unique bespoke pieces. This unique piece Voutilainen is offered with all its original accessories, in a spectacular handmade and limited edition presentation box, and in superb overall condition. It is a musthave for the connoisseur of daring independent timepieces.
VOUTILAINEN
Vingt-8 GMR “Unique Piece”
152.
A rare, attractive, and well-preserved pink gold fly-back chronometer chronograph wristwatch with pink gold movement, and date, with Certificate of Authenticity and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
Circa 2007
Case No.
167-05C
Model Name
Octa Chronograph
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1300-2, 32 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold F. P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
dials. Since its inception, the brand has continued to bring master craftsmanship, and cutting edge movements to the market with upgrades to current movements. The caliber 1300 of the “Octa” models featured a seven day power reserve, but were advertised as a 120 hour (5 days) chronometer, since past that duration the linear energy flow needed for chronometry is not mechanically guaranteed.
Accessories Accompanied by F. P. Journe Certificate of Authenticity dated 18 May, 2007, stamped Sincere Watch Limited Singapore, wooden presentation box, product literature, polish cloth and outer packaging.
The Octa Chronograph was the world’s first automatic fly-back chronometer chronograph with oversized date window. The model was also the first Journe model to be discontinued, when it was replaced by the Centigraphe Souverain chronograph in 2007. Produced in two series, the first with the caliber 1300 with brass movement, and the second like the present model, caliber 1300.2 with 18K gold movement, is a wonderful, modern interpretation of the chronograph. The asymmetrical dial, with large time indication to the right side of the dial, is offset by the smaller 60 minute dial to the left side.
François-Paul Journe is a modern watchmaker who brings technical skill and innovation to wristwatches that are classically designed but have a contemporary aesthetic. Journe’s company was established in 1999, and follows the motto “Invenit et Fecit” or “[He] invented it”, an indication the brand’s timepieces are fully designed and produced in house. F. P. Journe introduced his first wristwatch, the Tourbillon Souverain, in 1999, and shortly thereafter followed with the revolutionary Chronométre à Résonance and the Octa Automatique. Believed to have been first conceived on a napkin in 1994, these three seminal pieces were available in a 38mm case and were fitted with 18K gold
In stunning original condition and in our view never polished, the watch is fresh to the market and remains complete with its original certificate, and presentation box. An extremely rare configuration with its 38mm rose gold case, rose gold movement, and mesmerizing pink gold dial, just 18 examples were produced according to scholarship. Over the past few years, demand for F.P. Journe’s timepieces has grown as more collectors recognize the importance of the brand’s exceptional timepieces. The present lot, having recently completed a full factory service at F.P.Journe, is a wonderful example of a rare and discontinued model, presenting an outstanding opportunity for the connoisseur.
Estimate $60,000-120,000 Σ €51,500-103,000
F.P. JOURNE Octa Chronographe
153.
An extremely rare and stunning pink gold limited edition chronometer wristwatch with black mother-of-pearl dial, double escapement, certificate of authenticity and presentation box
Inspired by the work of the great 18th century watchmaker Antide Janvier, Journe rose to the challenge in 1983 and created a pocket-watch using the resonance phenomenon and launched a wristwatch 17 years later. In 2000, F.P. Journe took the horological world by surprise with the introduction of the firstever wristwatch incorporating two resonating escapements. The movement is composed of two independent balances, alternatively serving as an “exciter” and “resonator”. Simply summarised, the idea behind a resonance timepiece is that two independent escapements placed in close proximity influence and synchronise with one another, the two synced escapements being more resilient to disturbances than a single escapement. Two escapements united are less prone to error. Additionally, the Chronomètre à Resonance is also an extremely useful dual time watch, with two twelve hour time zones displayed on two identical sudbidals adjacent to each other.
F.P. JOURNE Chronomètre à Résonance Limited Edition “Black Mother-of-Pearl”
153.
An extremely rare and stunning pink gold limited edition chronometer wristwatch with black mother-of-pearl dial, double escapement, certificate of authenticity and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2006
Case No.
201-RN
Model Name
Chronomètre à Resonance
Material
18k pink gold, black mother-of-pearl
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1499.2, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed
Estimate $80,000-160,000 Σ €68,700-137,000 Accessories Accompanied by Certificate of Authenticity, instruction manual, polish cloth, invoice, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
The present 40mm Chonomètre à Résonance rendered in 18K pink gold may look at first glance like a coveted “Black Label” iteration – but it’s actually far more rare. Tilt the watch a few degrees towards a light source, and the wearer is instantly delighted with an array of irisdescent colorations, varying in depth. Found on the interior of mollusk shells, it is prized for its beauty but venerated for its strength; its molecular structure resembles plate armor. Historically it has been used to adorn a variety of decorative objects that also endure significant use, such as weaponry, cutlery, and tablewear, amongst other things. Black mother-of-pearl, also known as Tahitian motherof-pearl, is more costly and rare than its white counterpart, occurring once for every ten thousand natural white pearls. Offered by the original owner, it is one of an extremely limited edition of just 10 examples made for historic watch retailer Sincere Fine Watches. This exceptional Chronomètre á Résonance is preserved stunning, practically unworn condition, and comes complete with its original guarantee and accessories. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
F.P. JOURNE Chronomètre à Résonance Limited Edition “Black Mother-of-Pearl”
154.
An extremely rare and beautiful limited edition pink gold tourbillon wristwatch with black mother-of-pearl dial, constant force remontoire, power reserve, dead beat seconds, certificate of authenticity, and presentation box
Francois-Paul Journe launched his namesake brand with the motto “invenit et fecit” (invented and made) in 1999, first introducing the Tourbillon Souverain Remointoir d’Egalite, known as the “T”. In 2003, Francois-Paul Journe pushed the boundaries of his timekeeping masterpiece further, upgrading the “T” to the “TN” model (“Tourbillon Nouveau”), the reference Tourbillon Souverain Remontoire d’Egalité avec Seconde Morte. “Seconde Morte”, the art of making time stand still, is the French term for “dead beat seconds”. This complication requires the utmost precision to reliably stop and restart the seconds hand as the escapement continues to beat—not moving until one second has elapsed, then jumping to the next second. Enhanced with a deadbeat seconds complication, the timepiece with constant force mechanism was designed for highly accurate, precision timekeeping. With the introduction of an 18 karat pink gold movement and cased predominantly in platinum as well as pink gold, it was in production until 2018. During this time, several iterations were made with limited and precious dials, such as the present, spectacular example manufactured for Sincere Fine Watches, the venerated Singaporean retailer, with a black mother-of-pearl dial.
F.P. JOURNE Tourbillon Souverain Limited Edition “Black Mother-of-Pearl”
154.
An extremely rare and beautiful limited edition pink gold tourbillon wristwatch with black mother-of-pearl dial, constant force remontoire, power reserve, dead beat seconds, certificate of authenticity, and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2005
Case No.
076-04TN
Model Name
Tourbillon Souverain
Material
18K pink gold, black mother-of-pearl
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1403, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate $150,000-300,000 Σ €129,000-257,000 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe certificate of authenticity, instruction manual, polishing cloth, invoice, additional straps, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Mother-of-pearl is oft utilized in watchmaking, typically decorating the dials of various smaller and gem-set pieces. In this limited execution, the feminine connotation of motherof-pearl is reversed, with the black mother-of-pearl almost disappearing until the light hits the dial at just the right angle and it’s as if the sun has set and the sky is awash in oranges, pinks, blues, and purples. With the mother of pearl, all these colors are present in their iridescent beauty. Produced in an extremely limited edition of just 10 examples, it is offered by its original owner – an important aficionado of independent watchmaking. Preserved in uncompromised condition and with its box and extract from F.P. Journe, we are thrilled to offer this exceptional example of modern haute horologie. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
F.P. JOURNE Tourbillon Souverain Limited Edition “Black Mother-of-Pearl”
155.
An appealing and remarkable pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphase, leap year and day/night indicators, Certificate of Origin, additional solid caseback, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2015
Reference No.
5270R-001
Movement No.
5’891’065
Case No.
6’061’239
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH29-535 PS Q, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap, and clasp signed.
Estimate $70,000-140,000 Σ €60,100-120,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated August 4th, 2015, product literature, leather wallet, additional solid 18K pink gold caseback, setting pin, hang tag, paper envelope, inner fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
Patek Philippe’s reference 5270 perpetual calendar chronograph was introduced in 2011 at Baselworld as the replacement for the reference 5970 first released in 2004. Both models evolved from a line of highly successful perpetual calendar chronographs, starting with the famed reference 1518 – the world’s first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch in 1941, followed by the iconic 2499 released in 1951, and modernized with the reference 3970 from 1987-2004. The reference 5270 broke ground from its historical past, and was Patek Philippe’s
first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with a fully in-house movement. Four years after its launch, the model was introduced with an 18 karat pink gold case, like the present example, in 2015, following platinum-cased models released the year prior. Fitted within a very wearable 41mm diameter case, its dial has a symmetry reminiscent of vintage models, and modernised with a night and day indication. Applied rose gold hour markers and rose gold feuille hands perfectly match the case. Since its introduction, the model has seen several iterations, as seen with so many of the brand’s past models. The changes have been observed with the dial over three series: First series: Hands and hour markers are blackened white gold, offering the highest degree of legibility amongst all three series. The dial features railway minute divisions combined with Arabic five minute divisions, and was produced from 2011-2013. Second series: In production from 2013 to 2015, a tachymeter scale that follows the contour of the subsidiary seconds counter was now added. Third series: The tachymeter scale now stops where it intersects the timekeeping seconds subsidiary dial. Offered here is a fresh-to-the-market example from the collection of the original owner - an important Asian collector. The present 5270R is presented in exceptional overall condition with all of its original accessories. PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5270R Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
156.
A fine and attractive yellow gold cushion-shaped perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with Breguet numerals, Certificate of Origin, additional hard case back, setting pin and hang tag
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1995
Reference No.
5020
Movement No.
3’045’242
Case No.
2’956’060
Model Name
“TV Screen”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH27-70Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
37mm Wide
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate $100,000-200,000 Σ €85,800-172,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated November 1, 1997, confirming the Breguet numerals, additional hard case back, leather envelope, Patek Philippe setting pin and hang tag. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming date of manufacture of the present watch with Breguet numerals.
Patek Philippe’s line of iconic perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatches began an important milestone in the world of horology with the reference 1518. So ahead of its time in design and mechanical innovation, the brand continued to use its timeless aesthetic as the foundation for all subsequent perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatches through the present day, including the references 2499, 3970, 5970, and 5270.
Patek Philippe’s release of the reference 5020 in 1994 was a dramatic departure from their usual rounded cases with its cushion-shaped case reminiscent of early 20th century watches. Referred to as the “TV Screen” by collectors, it was an alternative to the brand’s reference 3970, housing identical movements. At the time of release, the avant-garde design was not well received, and it is believed approximately 350 examples of the reference 5020 were ever made, either in yellow, pink or white gold as well as in platinum. Over time, the international market regained appreciation for the wristwatch for the purity of its mirror-finished, retro aesthetic, generous size and overall rarity comparable to that of other vintage references. Today, the reference 5020 is highly appreciated by discerning collectors for its distinctively elegant look, and Lemania-based caliber CH 27-70Q - the first nonValjoux chronograph movement used by Patek Philippe. Heavily modified and meticulously hand-finished by Patek Philippe, it was one of the finest movements in production at the time. The present yellow gold example is fresh-to-the-market and only one of 10 yellow examples publicly offered with its original Certificate of Origin. With its beautiful dial with applied Breguet numerals, it is preserved in excellent condition and further accompanied with its original solid case back, hang tag and setting pin. Fully serviced by Patek Philippe, it presents an excellent opportunity to own one of these rare and stunning complicated timepieces.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5020J Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Televisore”
157.
A very rare and extremely fine platinum and diamond-set perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with black dial, moonphase, leap year indication and 24 hour indicator, with Certificate of Origin, presentation box, additional hard case back, hang tag and setting pin, factory sealed
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2009
Reference No.
5971P
Movement No.
3’049’623
Case No.
4’459’000
Material
Platinum and diamonds
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH 27-70Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum and diamond-set Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
considered an important milestone wristwatch in horological history, the reference 1518 set the course for Patek Philippe’s dominance in the world of high-end Swiss watchmaking. The design and innovation was ahead of its time, and Patek Philippe continued to use its timeless aesthetic as the foundation for a long line of successful and highly sought after complicated wristwatches, including the references 2499, 3970, 5970, and even today’s 5270.
Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated February 12, 2009, fitted presentation box, additional hard case back, hang tag, platinum and emerald-set setting pin, leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging.
Launched in 2007, the reference 5971 was the diamondset version of the reference 5970 - the very last perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch series to use a Lemania based movement before the introduction of Patek Philippe’s reference 5270 featuring their in-house caliber 29-535. This gem-set reference is a favorite among the watch community for its generous and modern case proportions, and has increased in popularity and collectability over time. The bezel is exquisitely set with top-grade diamonds, totaling approximately 4.37 carats, and the black dial is further enhanced by diamond-set hour markers.
Patek Philippe’s historic line of perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatches were first introduced in 1941 with the reference 1518, and it forever changed the world of haute horlogerie. It was the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch ever produced by any brand in series, and in those uncertain times, demonstrated the brand’s remarkable courage. Now
The present example is offered for the first-time at auction, and is in new, factory-sealed condition complete with its accessories and Certificate of Origin dated 2009 – a rare opportunity for the connoisseur. The reference 5971P is a superb compilation of haute horlogerie and jewellery, with its Top Wesselton diamonds adding a dynamic flair to an iconic Patek Philippe model.
Estimate $180,000-360,000 Σ €154,000-309,000
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5971P Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Sealed”
Stock photo for illustrative purposes.
158.
A very rare and fine 18K pink gold chronograph wristwatch with two-tone dial and tachymeter scale
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1952
Reference No.
533
Movement No.
868’404
Case No.
672’209
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, Dial and movement signed
Estimate $50,000-100,000 Σ €42,900-85,800 Accessories Accompanied by photocopy Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1952 with raised gold hour markers, and its subsequent sale on February 28th, 1953.
While the reference 130 is arguably one of the best known vintage Patek Philippe chronographs, it is in fact one of several references the company manufactured. One of its closest relatives is the reference 533, like the present timepiece. Differing from the reference 130 only by the flat bezel (versus a concave bezel found in the ref. 130), the rest of the Vichetmade case is identical to its brethren. This subtle change dramatically modifies the overall look of the chronograph, most notably making it appear larger and more angular. As the flat, sharp-edged bezel is the defining feature of the watch, it is of paramount importance for it to be in excellent condition in order for the beholder to fully appreciate the aesthetics of the timepiece. Patek Philippe produced the reference 533 from 1937 until 1957, and it is estimated there are approximately 150 examples, of which there are 87 known pink gold examples. The present lot is one of only two known examples with a sublime, two-tone silvered dial and applied Roman numerals. Not only beautiful, it is extremely well-preserved with all of its raised, hard-enamel printing intact and vibrant. The pink gold case remains in excellent overall condition, with its hallmarks remaining remarkably crisp. This reference 533 is amongst the finest and best preserved pink gold examples of the reference to appear on the market in recent memory, making it a trophy watch for the connoisseur.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 533 “Pink, Two-Tone Dial”
159.
A rare new-old-stock stainless steel chronograph with bracelet, guarantee, hang tags, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2003
Reference No.
116520
Case No.
F584105
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Steel stainless
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 230mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, reference 78490, stamped CL9
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $10,000-15,000 €8,600-12,900 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated December 21, 2004, green leather presentation box, hang tags, leather wallet, product literature, and outer packaging
Rolex’s Daytona Cosmograph has a long history beginning in the middle of the 20th century when “tool” wristwatches were offered by a number of manufacturers with a variety of complications ranging from dive and dual-time watches to chronographs. Rolex’s first Daytona was the reference 6239 released in 1963, and over the ensuing decades, the model evolved in to one of the most iconic and cherished wristwatches today. A revolutionary change occurred in 1988 with the release of the Daytona reference 16520 featuring a heavily modified version of Zenith’s El Primero movement. The first self-winding chronograph model in the history of the company resulted in unprecedented demand that required clients to wait as long as seven years to purchase one. Its ease of use, accuracy, and a larger, sportier design added to the Daytona’s desirability. In 2000, the next revolutionary change occurred when Rolex released the reference 116520 now sporting the brand’s first, fully in-house chronograph movement, the caliber 4130. The present “F” series example from 2003 is in absolutely new condition with all factory stickers perfectly intact and comes complete with all of its original accessories. The Daytona is a historic chronograph, and this is an extremely rare opportunity to own a truly “new-old-stock” example that has remained unworn for the last 18 years.
ROLEX Ref. 116520 Cosmograph Daytona “New-Old-Stock”
160.
A well-preserved and attractive stainless steel dual-time wristwatch with date, center seconds, and bracelet with original guarantee, bill of sale, hang-tag, and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1978
Reference No.
1675
Movement No.
D325152
Case No.
5’194’060
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 77
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $12,000-18,000 €10,300-15,400 Accessories Accompanied by original Rolex guarantee, original bill of sale dated January 24th, 1978 from Granat Brothers Fine Jewelers, Rolex hang-tag, product literature, green leather Rolex presentation box and outer packaging.
In 1959, Rolex released a newly designed GMT-Master, which sported crown guards, Mercedes hands and replaced the Bakelite bezel of the first GMT-Master, reference 6542, with a less fragile metal bezel insert. The new reference 1675 remained in production from 1960 until 1980 when it was replaced by the reference 16750 with the caliber 3075 featuring a quick-set date mechanism. Bearing a 5.1 million serial and fitted with a Mark IV matte dial identified by the perfect alignment of the right vertical of “M” in “Master” with “C” from Chronometer below. Furthermore boosting its charismatic personality, the bezel insert of the famed “Pepsi” has faded ever so slightly over time, lending an attractive vintage effect to an already wellpreserved wristwatch. The present watch is in excellent overall condition with a likely unpolished case and dial typical of the era with matte finish and white print. The luminous material faded to a warm brown hue and is matches the hands. The watch is enhanced by the original guarantee, original bill of sale, along with the Rolex presentation box. Collectors today are seeking the rare and unusual and the present GMT-Master is a wonderful iteration of this now iconic timepiece.
ROLEX
Ref. 1675 GMT Master “Full Set”
161.
A stunning and extremely rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with lacquer gilt “tropical” dial, pointed crown guards, and bracelet
Manufacturer
Tudor
Year
Circa 1960
Reference No.
7928
Case No.
325’728; inside caseback stamped 7928 II.60
Model Name
Submariner
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 390, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp dated 1-61, stamped Rolex U.S.A. C&I
Dimensions Signed
39mm Diameter Case and bracelet signed Rolex, movement and dial signed Tudor, movement additionally stamped ROW.
Estimate $15,000-30,000 €12,900-25,700 Accessories Rolex green pouch.
Sometimes a watch appears so miraculous, so serendipitously molded by the forces of time that it doesn’t matter what the name is on the dial, or the creator of the case, because the beauty of each element together is so resplendent and sublime it erases their meaning. Such is the case with this Tudor Submariner reference 7928 with a uniquely aged glossy, gilt dial.
The first Tudor Submariner was the reference 7922, first produced in 1954, followed by the introduction of the reference 7928 beginning in 1959. The ref. 7928 introduced crown guards for Tudor’s Submariners, much as the ref. 5512 did for Rolex. Four generations of Tudor crown guard cases exist for the reference 7928: in order of appearance, Mark I or “square” crown guards, Mark II or “ Eagle Beak” crown guards, Mark III or “PCG” crown guards - as found on the present watch, and Mark IV or rounded crown guards. The dials feature a gilt chapter ring and gilt text printed in relief showing through the black gloss paint. Unlike the Rolex Submariners, which all feature straight lines of text, Tudor Submariners feature a curved line of text for “Self-Winding” which adds an element of charm to the dial, alongside the Tudor rose and Gothic typology. Fitted with a riveted Rolex C&I bracelet indicating manufacture in the United States, the watch correspondingly bears the ‘ROW’ designation stamped on the movement, indicating it was exported to the United States. The faded grey “Long 5” bezel insert is similarly correct for the watch, and the wide chamfers on the lugs indicate a watch that may have seen wear but not a polishing wheel. The deep “dulce de leche” hue of the dial, attractively and evenly spotted throughout like glimmering stars, is the main attraction of this wristwatch. Other similarly aged examples have been seen in the scholarship across reference 7928s of this era, but not many have surfaced with this level of balanced tropicalization, where all the further components of the watch are harmoniously correct and in peak condition.
TUDOR Ref. 7928 Submariner “Dulce de Leche”
162.
A well-preserved stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with gas escape valve, date, “double red” Mark IV dial, and bracelet, with punched guarantee, original receipt and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1977
Reference No.
1665
Movement No.
D430’434
Case No.
5’225’814
Model Name
Sea-Dweller “Double Red”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped 93150, endlinks stamped 580, max overall length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 93150, SV2
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate $25,000-50,000 €21,500-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee stamped Heinz Wipperfeld Berlin,and dated 17 October, 1979, original receipt dated 17 October, 1979, Heinz Wipperfeld service receipt dated 7 April, 1984, Rolex International Service Guarantee dated 27 July, 2009, green leather Rolex presentation box.
In 1967 Rolex launched the Sea-Dweller diver’s watch for civilian use, which established a new standard in performance and technology with an incredible depth rating of 2000 feet (610 meters), and the first ever helium escape valve (HEV). The earliest iterations engraved with “Patent Pending Rolex Oyster Gas Escape Valve” on their case backs are highly sought after, while later models like the present features the engraving “Rolex Patent Oyster Gas Escape Value” on the case back. Indeed, after compression dives at such depths, where divers would breathe a mixture of pressurized hydrogenhelium-oxygen, tiny helium atoms would penetrate normal dive watches and pop their crystals out during decompression. Rolex solved this problem by inventing the helium escape valve, which allowed the trapped helium to escape. Between 1967 and 1977, Rolex printed the words “SEA-DWELLER” and “Submariner 2000” in red on two lines on the watch’s dial at 6 o’clock, resulting in the watch being dubbed the “Double Red” years later by aficionados. The present Rolex Sea-Dweller, bearing the serial number 5’225’814, is fitted with a Mark IV dial with closed “6” numerals and is in excellent overall condition with a sharp, well-preserved case. Its dial is stunning, with its luminous hour markers having aged to a pleasing warm beige hue. Remarkably, it is accompanied with the original guarantee from Heinz Wipperfeld in Berlin, original purchase receipt, and presentation box. The Sea-Dweller is a sporty and versatile watch that is both highly collectible and suitable for daily wear.
ROLEX Ref. 1665 Sea Dweller “Double Red”
163.
An early and rare stainless steel dual time wristwatch with pointed crown guards, black lacquer dial, date and bracelet with presentation box and hang tag
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1961
Reference No.
1675
Movement No.
D56’622
Case No.
696’416
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1560, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, endlinks stamped 58, overall max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 4.61
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $25,000-50,000 €21,500-42,900 Accessories Accompanied by green leather Rolex presentation box, Rolex hang tag, and product literature. Further accompanied by original Rolex cyclops crystal.
With the growth of transatlantic flights and the golden age of air travel, Rolex collaborated with world-renowned Pan American Airways to develop a dual time wristwatch to assist their pilots with combating the effects of jet lag while
traveling through different time zones. As the successor to the first GMT-Master reference 6542 released in 1955 with the now iconic yet fragile Bakelite bezel, the reference 1675 was introduced in 1959 with a far more durable metallic bezel insert. Crown guards were also introduced with the ref. 1675, serving the functional role of protecting the winding crown, which were introduced the same year with the Submariner reference 5512. Early examples like the present watch featured pointed crown guards, sensuously shaped like “little horns”, affectionately referred to by collectors as “cornino”. The case construction differed from the 6542 with a more robust and thicker design. This early GMT-Master is a wonderful example of Rolex’s iconic model. From 1961, this tool watch features its original and stunning black glossy “Swiss”-only dial with gilt print reading “Superlative Officially Certified Chronometer” that has developed a pleasing deep brown tropical shade. The luminous hour markers have nicely aged and perfectly match the luminous hands, completed with its original, luminous 24-hour hand with small arrow tip. The red day segment of the bezel has naturally aged to a light and appealing shade of red, while the blue night sector remains deep. Offered with its Rolex presentation box and hang tag, this lovely Rolex 1675 combines great daily wearability with rarity, and is a premium example for collectors.
ROLEX Ref. 1675 GMT Master “Glossy Gilt Pointed Crown Guards”
164.
A rare, attractive, and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet, with Rolex service warranty, with a portion of the proceeds donated to Shriners International
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
6239
Case No.
1’997’790
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster Bracelet stamped 7835 19, endlinks stamped 271, max overall length 190
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 4.71
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate $80,000-160,000 €68,700-137,000 Accessories Accompanied by a Rolex service warranty dated June 5th, 1996, Rolex service estimate and paid invoice, Rolex service box
Rolex launched the reference 6239 in 1963 as the very first Cosmograph Daytona model in their chronograph collection, and today the Daytona is one of the most sought after models with extensive wait lists at boutiques all over the world. Rolex initially marketed the reference as the “Le Mans” before settling on the “Daytona” moniker following the brands association with the famed 24-hour motorsport race. It was
available in stainless steel, 14K, and 18K gold, and was the brand’s first chronograph to feature the tachymeter scale outside the dial incorporated on the bezel - a design feature that has remained ever since. A quintessential “Paul Newman” Daytona, the present example perfectly embodies the watch made famous by the Hollywood legend. Featuring a three-dimensional design with Art Deco-style numerals, the black grèné dial with white subsidiary dials, coupled with the bright red of the “Daytona” signature at 6 o’clock, and outer red 1/5th seconds track form a strikingly beautiful aesthetic. When first released, they were under appreciated, however with time the Paul Newman dial configuration became one of the most sought after by collectors, appreciated for its rarity, enduring aesthetics, and celebrated history. The present watch is fresh to the market having been gifted by the original owner to its current one. The watch was serviced by Rolex in 1996 and remains in excellent overall condition. The case retains strong proportions with a nicely aged dial, and is a lovely representation of this highly collectable chronograph. Few vintage wristwatches combine the looks, rarity, prestige, and wearability as the reference 6239 “Paul Newman” Cosmograph Daytona. The present watch will continue to be cherished by subsequent collectors, and is a wonderful grail watch to add to any collection. A portion of the proceeds will be donated to Shriners International, a philanthropic organization provide support and care for children worldwide.
ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
165.
A previously unknown, extremely rare, and highly important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with blue pulsation dial, tachymeter bezel, and bracelet
The field of Daytona collecting is comprised of legends and even mythical models – and today we are thrilled to offer one such example. We at Phillips are delighted to present the third, previously unknown, and completely original reference 6239 with blue pulsations dial and red floating “Daytona” logo and only the second example found with this exact dial. These watches were specialized for the medical field, as the pulsometer scale is meant to measure heart beats per minute and can be found on some of Rolex’s earliest chronographs, dating from the 1930s and can even be found on rare examples of the reference 6238 “Pre-Daytona.” To utilize the pulsometer scale, a doctor would start the chronograph function, and stop it based on the number of heart beats counted as indicated on the scale, in this particular example 15 (hence, base 15 pulsations). The stopped chronograph hand would indicate the exact number of heart beats per minute on the pulsometer scale, without taking the entire minute.
ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Pulsations Cherry Logo”
165.
A previously unknown, extremely rare, and highly important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with blue pulsation dial, tachymeter bezel, and bracelet
ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Pulsations Cherry Logo”
A noteworthy design element is the modified dial layout, as a result of the space occupied by the pulsation scale. One might think the scale was simply added to an existing production dial from a standard reference 6239 of this period. Instead, the applied hour markers have been slightly centered, parts of the minute track removed to make room for them, and the black minute scale and T-SWISS-T designation were repositioned, demonstrating this dial variant was designed to feature the pulsations scale from its inception. Like the other examples with this dial layout, this example of “The Doctor” is fitted with a black chronograph hand, as opposed to the normal silver. One can assume this is because legibility is paramount for a doctor taking the pulse of his patient. The red “Daytona” logo found on this example resembles most closely the early “Cherry logo” dials seen in this era. This custom configuration perfectly fits within the Cosmograph Daytona’s design language past and present, retaining all the product line’s visually pleasing yet sensible features admired by collectors.
165.
A previously unknown, extremely rare, and highly important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with blue pulsation dial, tachymeter bezel, and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1967
Reference No.
6239; inside caseback stamped 6239
Case No.
1’695’628
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Pulsations Cherry Logo”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 7205, endlinks stamped 71, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 3.69
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate $350,000-700,000 €300,000-601,000
The case bears the serial number 1’695’628, falling perfectly in line with the previously known example (one sold in 2014 in the Christie’s Geneva “Daytona Lesson ONE” sale with serial number 1’695’328 fitted with this exact dial configuration. It is completely fresh to the market and unmolested, having been worn previously but with all its factory-original parts including the handset. This example of “The Doctor” Cosmograph Daytona comes to us from a casual enthusiast and watch collector in Texas who, over two decades ago, obtained this watch in a trade. Having hardly worn it, it is now offered publicly for the first time ever.
ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Pulsations Cherry Logo”
Index
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
8
A. Lange & Söhne
310.025
Langematik Perpetual
13
F.P. Journe
10
A. Lange & Söhne
236.049
1815 Anniversary F. A. Lange
17
F.P. Journe
11
A. Lange & Söhne
410.030
Datograph Perpetual
52
F.P. Journe
66
A. Lange & Söhne
297.026
1815 Homage to Walter Lange
54
F.P. Journe
67
A. Lange & Söhne
297.021
1815 Homage to Walter Lange
56
F.P. Journe
68
A. Lange & Söhne
297.032
1815 Homage to Walter Lange
97
F.P. Journe
Chronomètre Bleu
70
A. Lange & Söhne
704.032
Lange 1 Tourbillon
98
F.P. Journe
Octa Zodiaque
71
A. Lange & Söhne
145.032
Zeitwerk Striking Time
99
F.P. Journe
89
A. Lange & Söhne
212.050
Homage to F.A. Lange 1815
100
F.P. Journe
T30
Tourbillon Anniversaire Historique
Moonphase
150
F.P. Journe
CTT
Centigraphe Souverain Anniversary –
Chronomètre Souverain “Black Label” RN
Chronomètre à Résonance Octa Automatique Reserve Octa Lune “Number One”
T
Ruthenium Tourbillon Souverain
Chronomètre A Resonance
90
A. Lange & Söhne
722.050
Lange 1 Tourbillon “Honey Gold”
134
A. Lange & Söhne
101.001
Lange 1
152
F.P. Journe
Hong Kong Boutique Octa Chronograph
135
A. Lange & Söhne
701.011
Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon
153
F.P. Journe
Chronomètre à Resonance
141
A. Lange & Söhne
304.049
Grosse Langematik Gangreserve
154
F.P. Journe
Tourbillon Souverain
143
A. Lange & Söhne
260.028
Richard Lange Pour le Mérite
102
George Daniels
The Edward Hornby Tourbillon
6
Audemars Piguet
15400OR
Royal Oak
7
Audemars Piguet
25820SP.OO.0944SP.02
Royal Oak Quantième Perpetuel
62
Girard-Perregaux
9027
9
Audemars Piguet
25636ST
Royal Oak Quantième Perpetuel
87
Grand Seiko
SBGW033
12
Audemars Piguet
14802ST.OO.0944ST.02
Royal Oak “Jubilee”
53
H. Moser & Cie
341.501
Moser Perpetual 1
48
Audemars Piguet
5520
“One of Nine”
28
Heuer
7753
Carrera, second execution
65
Audemars Piguet
25909
Jules Audemars Tourbillon
29
Heuer
2443
Seafarer
Chronographe
61
Heuer
2446
Autavia, “Full Lume”, 1st execution
Pocket Watch Vintage 1945 XXL
69
Audemars Piguet
25902OR.OO.1110OR.01
Royal Oak Automatique Tourbillon
84
Audemars Piguet
15202ST.OO.1240ST.01
Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra Thin
136
Heuer
3647
dial, 1st execution hands Carrera, “MG”
85
Audemars Piguet
26331BA
Royal Oak Chronograph
137
Heuer
2446C
Autavia GMT
86
Audemars Piguet
25820ST.OO.0944ST.03
Royal Oak Quantième Perpetuel
64
Hublot
305.CL.1600.RX.GAR09
Big Bang
142
Audemars Piguet
15300
Royal Oak
129
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Q373 35 EI: 273.3.62
Reverso Série Limitée
144
Audemars Piguet
26298SK.OO.D101CR.01
Royal Oak Offshore “57th Street
15
Laurent Ferrier
Royal Oak Offshore Limited Edition
55
Laurent Ferrier
“Las Vegas Strip”
60
Longines
Huitième Quantième Perpetuel
149
MB&F
Royal Oak, “C Series”
51
Ming X Massena LAB
17.09
“Black” and “Honey”
Galet Traveller Limited Edition
Limited Edition” 145
146
Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet
26271BC.ZZ.D002CR.01
25751PT
for Hodinkee Galet Traveller 3592
Legacy Machine Split Escapement
Automatique 5402ST
Type A-7 Avigation Hack
(LM SE)
147
Audemars Piguet
59
Blancpain
Fifty Fathoms
58
Omega
105.003-64
Speedmaster, “Ed White”
114
Blancpain
Blancpain, Mil Spec, US Navy
112
Omega
2998-61
Speedmaster
25
Breguet
Type XX “Big Eye”
113
Omega
165.024
Seamaster 300, “Military”
130
Breguet
7067
Tradition GMT
138
Omega
145.012-67 SP
Speedmaster Professional
57
Breitling
817
140
Omega
2915-2
Speedmaster “Broad Arrow”
44
Cartier
Grand Tank Cintrée
63
Panerai
PAM00080; OP-6551
Radiomir Independent
96
Cartier
2356B
Tortue Monopoussoir CPCP
127
Panerai
PAM046; OP 6516
Radiomir GMT Alarm
103
Cartier
2947
Baignoire Joallierie “Tutti Frutti”
128
Panerai
PAM00740
Radiomir 1940 Oro Rosso
105
Cartier
Tank Normale
1
Patek Philippe
5711/1A-010
Nautilus
132
Cartier
Privé Collection Tank Asymétrique
2
Patek Philippe
5711/1A
Nautilus
133
Cartier
Tortue
3
Patek Philippe
5726/1A-014
Nautilus
88
Credor
GBLT999
Eichi II
4
Patek Philippe
5712/1A
Nautilus
14
De Bethune
DB12WT
DB12
5
Patek Philippe
5990/1A
Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph
16
De Bethune
DB15WT S1
19
Patek Philippe
3466
Calatrava
148
De Bethune
DB27ZS8
20
Patek Philippe
2508
Calatrava
WGTA0043; 4286
“Titan Hawk”
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
26
Patek Philippe
2526
Calatrava
38
Rolex
16520
Cosmograph Daytona,
34
Patek Philippe
1463
Tasti Tondi
45
Patek Philippe
802
39
Rolex
6241
46
Patek Philippe
533
49
Patek Philippe
699/3
40
Rolex
5512, inside case back
50
Patek Philippe
130
72
Patek Philippe
5153G-012
73
Patek Philippe
5146/1G-001
74
Patek Philippe
5524G-001
75
Patek Philippe
5140R-001
76
Patek Philippe
5270G-014
91
Patek Philippe
5164A-001
92
Patek Philippe
104
“Floating Cosmograph” Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman” Submariner, “4-Liner”
stamped 5513, iv.65 Calatrava London Special Edition
41
Rolex
6241
Cosmograph Daytona, “Paul
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
42
Rolex
6236
77
Rolex
16610LV
Submariner, Kermit Flat Four
Aquanaut Travel Time
78
Rolex
6238
“Pre-Daytona”
5980/1A-001
Nautilus Chronograph “Tiffany & Co.”
79
Rolex
6204; inside caseback
Submariner
Patek Philippe
7130G-001
World Time
106
Patek Philippe
5170G-001
107
Patek Philippe
591
108
Patek Philippe
5960P-001
81
Rolex
5513/5517
Submariner, “MilSub”
109
Patek Philippe
591
“Fagiolino”
82
Rolex
116500LN
Cosmograph Daytona
110
Patek Philippe
3700/1
Nautilus
83
Rolex
116710BLNR
GMT-Master II “Batman”
111
Patek Philippe
570
Calatrava
115
Rolex
16800, inside caseback
Submariner “COMEX”
122
Patek Philippe
130
123
Patek Philippe
5905P-010
124
Patek Philippe
130
126
Patek Philippe
5975G
155
Patek Philippe
5270R-001
156
Patek Philippe
5020
157
Patek Philippe
158
Newman John Player Special” Oyster Chronograph Antimagnetic, Jean-Claude Killy
stamped 6204 80
Rolex
“Fagiolino”
16660; inside caseback
Sea-Dweller “COMEX”
also stamped 16660
stamped with repeated case number 7’285’787 116
Rolex
1675
117
Rolex
126600
5971P
118
Rolex
116610LV
Submariner “Hulk”
Patek Philippe
533
119
Rolex
16700
GMT-Master
93
Richard Mille
RM023
120
Rolex
116519
Cosmograph Daytona “Beach”
94
Richard Mille
RM60-01 Ti/103
121
Rolex
6241
Cosmograph Daytona,
125
Rolex
6263; inside caseback
Multi-Scale Chronograph
Quraysh Hawk“
“TV Screen”
Automatic Flyback Chronograph
Richard Mille
RM022 AM CA
Tourbillon “Aerodyne” Dual
Sea-Dweller “Single Red 50th Anniversary”
Regatta Les Voiles de St. Barth 95
GMT-Master, “U.A.E.
“Paul Newman”
Time Zone
Cosmograph Daytona
additionally stamped 6263
101
Roger Smith
Series 1
159
Rolex
116520
Cosmograph Daytona
18
Rolex
3130
Oyster Perpetual, Bubbleback
160
Rolex
1675
GMT-Master
21
Rolex
6263; inside caseback
Cosmograph Daytona
162
Rolex
1665
Sea-Dweller “Double Red”
163
Rolex
1675
GMT-Master
164
Rolex
6239
Cosmograph Daytona
165
Rolex
6239; inside caseback
Cosmograph Daytona “Pulsations
stamped 6239
Cherry Logo” Tegolino
stamped 6262 22
Rolex
6238
Pre-Daytona
23
Rolex
5513
Submariner “Maxi”
27
Rolex
5510
Submariner, Big Crown
30
Rolex
5513
Submariner “Maxi”
31
Rolex
1675; further stamped 1675 GMT-Master “Pepsi”
43
Tiffany & Co.
425
and IV.68 to the inside caseback
139
Tornek-Rayville
TR-900
“Paul Newman”
32
Rolex
6605
Datejust “Red Depth”
161
Tudor
7928
Submariner
33
Rolex
6262; inside caseback
Cosmograph Daytona
24
Universal
885.105
Universal Compax
stamped 6239
“Paul Newman”
47
Vacheron Constantin
4414
World Time
86122/000R
Chronomètre Royal
35
Rolex
126710BLRO
GMT-Master II “Pepsi”
131
Vacheron Constantin
36
Rolex
116500LN
Cosmograph Daytona
151
Voutilainen
37
Rolex
6263
Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
Vingt-8 GMR “Unique Piece”
Sale Information Auction & Viewing Location 432 Park Avenue, New York Auction Session 1, lots 1–81 Saturday, 11 December at 10am Session 2, lots 82–165 Sunday, 12 December at 10am Please register to bid online, absentee or by phone.
Watch Department New York Head of Watches Americas, International Strategy Advisor Paul Boutros +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com Senior International Specialist Doug Escribano +1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com
Viewing by appointment 3–10 December Contact watchesny@phillips.com or +1 212 940 1314 to arrange your visit.
International Specialist and Head of Perpetual, Americas Geoff Hess +1 917 297 6328 ghess@phillips.com
Sale Designation When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as NY080121 or Watches
Specialist Isabella Proia +1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com
Absentee and Telephone Bids Tel +1 212 940 1228 Fax +1 212 940 1749 bidsnewyork@phillips.com Auction License 2013224 Auctioneers Hugues Joffre - 2028495 Sarah Krueger - 1460468 Henry Highley - 2008889 Jonathan Crockett - 2056239 Rebecca Tooby-Desmond - 2058901 Aurel Bacs – 2047217 Blake Koh – 2066237 Susanna Brockman – 2058779 Rebekah Bowling - 2078967 Cathy Elkies - 2088939 Catalogues catalogues@phillips.com, $50/50 CHF/£35 Client Accounts clientaccountswatches@phillips.com Shipping shippingwatches@phillips.com Photography Benjamin Kramer
Business Development Manager Daniella Rosa +1 212 940 1395 drosa@phillips.com Sale Coordinator Ryan Lee +1 212 940 1314 rlee@phillips.com Geneva Senior Consultant Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com Senior Consultant Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com Client Relations Manager at Bacs & Russo Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com Head of Watches, Continental Europe and Middle East Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 8189 aghotbi@phillips.com
International Business Director Myriam Christinaz +41 22 317 8184 mchristinaz@phillips.com Regional Director, Business Development Director Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183 nmonbaron@phillips.com Business Development Manager Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187 dortega@phillips.com Senior Administrator Dominik Teichert +41 22 317 96 67 dteichert@phillips.com Senior Administrator Alexia Rinalducci +41 22 317 96 67 arinalducci@phillips.com Shipping & Office Coordinator Charles-Henri Gounod +41 79 532 0395 chgounod@phillips.com Finance & Office Administration Francesco Campi +41 22 317 96 71 fcampi@phillips.com Watchmaker, Technical Support Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com Hong Kong Head of Watches, Asia Thomas Perazzi +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com Head of Watches, Hong Kong Jill Chen +852 2318 2033 jillchen@phillips.com Head of Sale & Specialist Zi Yong Ho +852 2318 2032 ziyongho@phillips.com
Senior International Specialist Tiffany To +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com
Associate Specialist Shoyo Kawamura +852 2318 2035 shoyokawamura@phillips.com
Specialist Virginie Liatard-Roessli +41 22 317 8182 vliatard@phillips.com
Cataloguer/Designer Gertrude Wong +852 2318 2045 gertrudewong@phillips.com
International Head of Digital Strategy Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com Specialist & Business Development Associate Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com Cataloguer Edoardo Bolla +41 79 552 73 68 ebolla@phillips.com
Senior Business Manager, Asia Felix Yip +852 2318 2034 felixyip@phillips.com Administrator Stanley Sit +852 2318 2018 stanleysit@phillips.com Administrator Becky Ng +852 2318 2031 beckyng@phillips.com
London International Head of Perpetual James Marks +44 20 7901 7916 jmarks@phillips.com Specialist Chris Youé +44 777 814 3563 cyoue@phillips.com Sales Coordinator & Client Liaison Jacky Lam +44 7899 795870 jlam@phillips.com Paris International Business Development Director Pansy Ku +33 1 53 71 77 89 pku@phillips.com China Director of Watches, China Andy Zhang +86 138 1882 7196 andyzhang@phillips.com Tokyo Senior Specialist Consultant Genki Sakamoto +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com Senior Consultant Kaz Fujimoto +81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com Taiwan General Manager, Taiwan Cindy Yen +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com Consultant Zachary Lu +852 2318 2034 zacharylu@phillips.com Thailand Senior Consultant Rika Dila +66 818 186 878 rikadila@phillips.com Advisory Board Jean-Claude Biver, Henry Chan, Helmut Crott, Ike Honigstock, Stephen Charles Li, David Lou, TK Mak, Auro Montanari, Jason Singer, Kenneth Wong
PERPETUAL
Lange 1 Moonphase “Lumen”, one of just 200 pieces cased in Platinum and complete with full accessories including International Guarantee.
Exceptional watches available for immediate purchase
phillips.com/watches @phillipsperpetual
Enquiries James Marks T +44 207 901 7916 M +44 7760 848 881 perpetual@phillips.com 30 Berkeley Square London W1J 6EX
Guide for Prospective Buyers of Jewelry and Watches Buying at Auction The following pages are designed to offer you information on how to buy at auction at Phillips. Our staff will be happy to assist you.
Pre-Auction Viewing Pre-auction viewings are open to the public and free of charge. Our specialists are available to give advice and condition reports at viewings or by appointment.
Conditions of Sale The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty which appear later in this catalogue govern the auction. Bidders are strongly encouraged to read them as they outline the legal relationship among Phillips, the seller and the buyer and describe the terms upon which property is bought at auction. Please be advised that Phillips generally acts as agent for the seller.
Electrical and Mechanical Lots All lots with electrical and/or mechanical features are sold on the basis of their decorative value only and should not be assumed to be operative. It is essential that, prior to any intended use, the electrical system is verified and approved by a qualified electrician.
Buyer’s Premium Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or buyer’s premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The buyer’s premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 26% of the hammer price up to and including $600,000, 21% of the portion of the hammer price above $600,000 up to and including $6,000,000 and 14.5% of the portion of the hammer price above $6,000,000. 1 Prior to Auction Catalogue Subscriptions If you would like to purchase a catalogue for this auction or any other Phillips sale, please contact us at +1 212 940 1240 or +44 20 7318 4010. Pre-Sale Estimates Pre-sale estimates are intended as a guide for prospective buyers. Any bid within the high and low estimate range should, in our opinion, offer a chance of success. However, many lots achieve prices below or above the pre-sale estimates. Where “Estimate on Request” appears, please contact the specialist department for further information. It is advisable to contact us closer to the time of the auction as estimates can be subject to revision. Pre-sale estimates do not include the buyer’s premium or any applicable taxes. Pre-Sale Estimates in Pounds Sterling and Euros Although the sale is conducted in US dollars, the pre-sale estimates in the auction catalogues may also be printed in pounds sterling and/or euros. Since the exchange rate is that at the time of catalogue production and not at the date of auction, you should treat estimates in pounds sterling or euros as a guide only. Catalogue Entries Phillips may print in the catalogue entry the history of ownership of a work of art, as well as the exhibition history of the property and references to the work in art publications. While we are careful in the cataloguing process, provenance, exhibition and literature references may not be exhaustive and in some cases we may intentionally refrain from disclosing the identity of previous owners. Please note that all dimensions of the property set forth in the catalogue entry are approximate. Condition of Lots Our catalogues include references to condition only in the descriptions of multiple works (e.g., prints). Such references, though, do not amount to a full description of condition. The absence of reference to the condition of a lot in the catalogue entry does not imply that the lot is free from faults or imperfections. Solely as a convenience to clients, Phillips may provide condition reports. In preparing such reports, our specialists assess the condition in a manner appropriate to the estimated value of the property and the nature of the auction in which it is included. While condition reports are prepared honestly and carefully, our staff are not professional restorers or trained conservators. We therefore encourage all prospective buyers to inspect the property at the pre-sale exhibitions and recommend, particularly in the case of any lot of significant value, that you retain your own restorer or professional advisor to report to you on the property’s condition prior to bidding. Any prospective buyer of photographs or prints should always request a condition report because all such property is sold unframed, unless otherwise indicated in the condition report. If a lot is sold framed, Phillips accepts no liability for the condition of the frame. If we sell any lot unframed, we will be pleased to refer the purchaser to a professional framer.
Symbol Key The following key explains the symbols you may see inside this catalogue. O Guaranteed Property Lots designated with the symbol [O] are the subject of a minimum price guarantee. In such cases Phillips has guaranteed to the seller of the lot that regardless of the outcome of the sale the seller shall receive no less than a minimum sum. This guarantee may be provided solely by Phillips or jointly with a third party. ♦ Third Party Guarantee Where Phillips has agreed to a minimum price guarantee it assumes the financial risk of a lot failing to sell or selling for less than the minimum price guarantee. Because the sums involved can be significant Phillips may choose to share the burden of that financial risk with a third party. The third party shares the risk by committing in advance of the sale, usually by way of a written bid, to buy the lot for an agreed amount whether or not there are competing bidders for the lot. If there are competing bidders third party guarantors may also bid above any written bid. In this way the third party guarantor assumes the risk of the bidding not reaching the amount of the minimum price guarantee.
In return for underwriting or sharing this risk Phillips will usually compensate the third party. The compensation may be in the form of a fixed fee or an amount calculated by reference to the hammer price of the lot. If the third party guarantor is the successful bidder they will be required to pay the full hammer price and buyer’s premium and will not be otherwise compensated. Disclosure of financial interest by third parties Phillips requires third party guarantors to disclose their financial interest in the lot to anyone whom they are advising. If you are contemplating bidding on a lot which is the subject of a third party guarantee and you are being advised by someone or if you have asked someone to bid on your behalf you should always ask them to confirm whether or not they have a financial interest in the lot. ∆ Property in Which Phillips Has an Ownership Interest Lots with this symbol indicate that Phillips owns the lot in whole or in part or has an economic interest in the lot equivalent to an ownership interest. No Reserve •Unless indicated by a •, all lots in this catalogue are offered subject to a reserve. A reserve is the confidential value established between Phillips and the seller and below which a lot may not be sold. The reserve for each lot is generally set at a percentage of the low estimate and will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate. ∑ Regulated Species Lots with this symbol have been identified at the time of cataloguing as containing endangered or other protected species of wildlife which may be subject to restrictions regarding export or import and which may require permits for export as well as import. Please refer to Paragraph 4 of the Guide for Prospective Buyers and Paragraph 11 of the Conditions of Sale.
Colored Gemstones Clients are advised that many colored gemstones are treated to enhance their properties. For example, heating is commonly used to improve the color or transparency of rubies and sapphires; oiling is commonly used to enhance the clarity of emeralds. Such enhancement procedures are widely accepted by the international jewelry profession. While heat enhancement of color is generally believed to be permanent, the process may impact the durability of the gemstone and special care of the stone may be required over time. Gemstones which have been oiled may need to be reoiled after a period of years to retain their maximum clarity.
Gemological Reports As a matter of policy, Phillips will obtain gemological reports from officially recognized laboratories for certain gemstones offered for sale. A summary of these reports is included in the catalogue description for a lot, and a copy of the report is available upon request. Reports from American gemological laboratories used by Phillips will generally disclose heat enhancement or treatment of colored gemstones. European gemological laboratory reports will disclose heat enhancement only if specifically requested but will generally confirm when no heat enhancement or treatment has been made. Variations in approach and technology used by different gemological laboratories may result in a lack of consensus among reports as to whether any particular gemstone has been treated, the extent of treatment and whether treatment is permanent. It is not feasible for Phillips to obtain such reports for all gemstones offered at auction. Prospective buyers should, therefore, bear in mind that colored gemstones offered for sale without a gemological report or a specific statement in the catalogue entry may have been treated to enhance color, transparency or clarity. Enhancement of colored gemstones may affect market value, and our pre-sale estimates reflect the assumption that any colored gemstone not described in the catalogue entry as natural may have been treated. Country of Origin While Phillips attempts to obtain accurate information on the country of origin of gemstones, we do not guarantee the correctness of the catalogue or other descriptions of gemstones including country of origin. Watches Phillips makes no representation or warranty that any watch is in working order, and no catalogue description of any lot should be construed as so stating. Prospective buyers are advised to have watches checked by a competent watchmaker before use. As a service to prospective buyers, we may provide a description of the condition of watches in the catalogue entry, including references to defects and repairs, and furnish a condition report, but such information is not necessarily complete and may not specify all mechanical replacements, restorations or defects. Please note that Phillips does not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since prior repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Nor does Phillips warrant that watches in water-resistant cases are currently water-resistant. Prospective buyers should inspect all watches prior to the auction to evaluate the condition of property offered for sale. ▼ Importation of Watches Into the United States Prospecting buyers should be aware that the importation of luxury watches such as Rolex into the United States is highly restricted. These watches (not limited to Rolex) may not be shipped into the US and may only be imported personally. US customs regulations generally limit the importation of luxury watches to one per buyer. Lots marked with ▼ are subject to these restrictions. A purchaser’s inability to import a luxury watch into the United States or Phillips’s failure to mark a lot with ▼ shall not constitute grounds for non-payment or cancellation of the sale. ✦ Exportation of Watch Bands Incorporating Material from Regulated Species Some of the watches offered for sale in this catalogue may have bands made of regulated or protected animal materials such as alligator or crocodile and may not lawfully be exported from the auction site without a CITES export permit. As explained above, these lots are marked with ✦ in the catalogue. Accordingly, for purchased watches that are to be shipped out of the sale site for delivery, Phillips may need to remove and retain the band before shipping the watch and buckle. 2 Bidding in the Sale Bidding at Auction Bids may be executed during the auction in person by paddle, by telephone, online or prior to the sale in writing by absentee bid. Proof of identity in the form of government issued identification will be required, as will an original signature. We may also require that you furnish us with a bank reference.
Bidding in Person To bid in person, you will need to register for and collect a paddle before the auction begins. New clients are encouraged to register at least 48 hours in advance of a sale to allow sufficient time for us to process your information. All lots sold will be invoiced to the name and address to which the paddle has been registered and invoices cannot be transferred to other names and addresses. Please do not misplace your paddle. In the event you lose it, inform a Phillips staff member immediately. At the end of the auction, please return your paddle to the registration desk. Bidding by Telephone If you cannot attend the auction, you may bid live on the telephone with one of our multi-lingual staff members. This service must be arranged at least 24 hours in advance of the sale and is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least $1,000. Telephone bids may be recorded. By bidding on the telephone, you consent to the recording of your conversation. We suggest that you leave a maximum bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and any applicable taxes, which we can execute on your behalf in the event we are unable to reach you by telephone. Online Bidding If you cannot attend the auction in person, you may bid online on our online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. The digital saleroom is optimized to run on Google Chrome, Firefox, Opera and Internet Explorer browsers. Clients who wish to run the platform on Safari will need to install Adobe FlashPlayer. Follow the links to ‘Auctions’ and ‘Digital Saleroom’ and then pre-register by clicking on ‘Register to Bid Live.’ The first time you register you will be required to create an account; thereafter you will only need to register for each sale. You must pre-register at least 24 hours before the start of the auction in order to be approved by our bid department. Please note that corporate firewalls may cause difficulties for online bidders. Absentee Bids If you are unable to attend the auction and cannot participate by telephone, Phillips will be happy to execute written bids on your behalf. A bidding form can be found at the back of this catalogue. This service is free and confidential. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. Our staff will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. Always indicate a maximum bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and any applicable taxes. Unlimited bids will not be accepted. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence. Employee Bidding Employees of Phillips and our affiliated companies, including the auctioneer, may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures. Bidding Increments Bidding generally opens below the low estimate and advances in increments of up to 10%, subject to the auctioneer’s discretion. Absentee bids that do not conform to the increments set below may be lowered to the next bidding increment. $50 to $1,000 $1,000 to $2,000 $2,000 to $3,000 $3,000 to $5,000 $5,000 to $10,000 $10,000 to $20,000 $20,000 to $30,000 $30,000 to $50,000 $50,000 to $100,000 $100,000 to $200,000 above $200,000
by $50s by $100s by $200s by $200s, 500, 800 (i.e., $4,200, 4,500, 4,800) by $500s by $1,000s by $2,000s by $2,000s, 5,000, 8,000 by $5,000s by $10,000s auctioneer’s discretion
The auctioneer may vary the increments during the course of the auction at his or her own discretion.
3 The Auction Conditions of Sale As noted above, the auction is governed by the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty. All prospective bidders should read them carefully. They may be amended by saleroom addendum or auctioneer’s announcement. Interested Parties Announcement In situations where a person allowed to bid on a lot has a direct or indirect interest in such lot, such as the beneficiary or executor of an estate selling the lot, a joint owner of the lot or a party providing or participating in a guarantee on the lot, Phillips will make an announcement in the saleroom that interested parties may bid on the lot. Consecutive and Responsive Bidding; No Reserve Lots The auctioneer may open the bidding on any lot by placing a bid on behalf of the seller. The auctioneer may further bid on behalf of the seller up to the amount of the reserve by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders. If a lot is offered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low presale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the auctioneer may deem such lot unsold. 4 After the Auction Payment Buyers are required to pay for purchases immediately following the auction unless other arrangements are agreed with Phillips in writing in advance of the sale. Payment must be made in US dollars either by cash, check drawn on a US bank or wire transfer, as noted in Paragraph 6 of the Conditions of Sale. It is our corporate policy not to make or accept single or multiple payments in cash or cash equivalents in excess of US$2,000. Credit Cards As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa and Mastercard to pay for invoices of $30,000 or less. Collection It is our policy to request proof of identity on collection of a lot. A lot will be released to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative when Phillips has received full and cleared payment and we are not owed any other amount by the buyer. Promptly after the auction, we will transfer all lots to our warehouse located at 29-09 37th Avenue in Long Island City, Queens, New York. All purchased lots should be collected at this location during our regular weekday business hours. As a courtesy to clients, we will upon request transfer purchased lots suitable for hand carry back to our premises at 450 Park Avenue, New York, New York for collection within 30 days following the date of the auction. We will levy removal, interest, storage and handling charges on uncollected lots. Loss or Damage Buyers are reminded that Phillips accepts liability for loss or damage to lots for a maximum of seven days following the auction. Transport and Shipping As a free service for buyers, Phillips will wrap purchased lots for hand carry only. Alternatively, we will either provide packing, handling and shipping services or coordinate with shipping agents in order to facilitate such services for property purchased at Phillips. In the event that the property is collected in New York by the buyer or the buyer’s designee (including any private carrier) for subsequent transport out of state, Phillips may be required by law to collect New York sales tax, regardless of the lot’s ultimate destination. Please refer to Paragraph 17 of the Conditions of Sale for more information.
Export and Import Licenses Before bidding for any property, prospective bidders are advised to make independent inquiries as to whether a license is required to export the property from the United States or to import it into another country. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to comply with all import and export laws and to obtain any necessary licenses or permits. The denial of any required license or permit or any delay in obtaining such documentation will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot. Regulated Species Items made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value, may require a license or certificate prior to exportation and additional licenses or certificates upon importation to any foreign country. Please note that the ability to obtain an export license or certificate does not ensure the ability to obtain an import license or certificate in another country, and vice versa. We suggest that prospective bidders check with their own government regarding wildlife import requirements prior to placing a bid. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to obtain any necessary export or import licenses or certificates as well as any other required documentation. Please note that lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material are marked as a convenience to our clients, but Phillips does not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species. Privacy Our Privacy Policy is available at www.phillips.com or by emailing dataprotection@ phillips.com and sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collect and process; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data; (iii) the lawful bases we rely on when processing your personal data; (iv) your rights in respect of our processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information as required by applicable laws. Phillips premises, sale, and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Phillips’ auctions will be filmed for simultaneous live broadcast on Phillips’ and third party websites and applications. Your communications with Phillips, including by phone and online (e.g. phone and on-line bidding) may be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process it in accordance with our Privacy Policy.
Conditions of Sale The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty set forth below govern the relationship between bidders and buyers, on the one hand, and Phillips and sellers, on the other hand. All prospective buyers should read these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty carefully before bidding.
4 Bidding at Auction (a) Phillips has absolute discretion to refuse admission to the auction or participation in the sale. All bidders must register for a paddle prior to bidding, supplying such information and references as required by Phillips.
1 Introduction Each lot in this catalogue is offered for sale and sold subject to: (a) the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty; (b) additional notices and terms printed in other places in this catalogue, including the Guide for Prospective Buyers, and (c) supplements to this catalogue or other written material posted by Phillips in the saleroom, in each case as amended by any addendum or announcement by the auctioneer prior to the auction.
(b) As a convenience to bidders who cannot attend the auction in person, Phillips may, if so instructed by the bidder, execute written absentee bids on a bidder’s behalf. Absentee bidders are required to submit bids on the Absentee Bid Form, a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. The bidder must clearly indicate the maximum amount he or she intends to bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and any applicable sales or use taxes. The auctioneer will not accept an instruction to execute an absentee bid which does not indicate such maximum bid. Our staff will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence.
By bidding at the auction, whether in person, through an agent, by written bid, by telephone bid or other means, bidders and buyers agree to be bound by these Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty. These Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty contain all the terms on which Phillips and the seller contract with the buyer. 2 Phillips as Agent Phillips acts as an agent for the seller, unless otherwise indicated in this catalogue or at the time of auction. On occasion, Phillips may own a lot directly, in which case we will act in a principal capacity as a consignor, or a company affiliated with Phillips may own a lot, in which case we will act as agent for that company, or Phillips or an affiliated company may have a legal, beneficial or financial interest in a lot as a secured creditor or otherwise. 3 Catalogue Descriptions and Condition of Property Lots are sold subject to the Authorship Warranty, as described in the catalogue (unless such description is changed or supplemented, as provided in Paragraph 1 above) and in the condition that they are in at the time of the sale on the following basis. (a) The knowledge of Phillips in relation to each lot is partially dependent on information provided to us by the seller, and Phillips is not able to and does not carry out exhaustive due diligence on each lot. Prospective buyers acknowledge this fact and accept responsibility for carrying out inspections and investigations to satisfy themselves as to the lots in which they may be interested. Notwithstanding the foregoing, we shall exercise such reasonable care when making express statements in catalogue descriptions or condition reports as is consistent with our role as auctioneer of lots in this sale and in light of (i) the information provided to us by the seller, (ii) scholarship and technical knowledge and (iii) the generally accepted opinions of relevant experts, in each case at the time any such express statement is made. (b) Each lot offered for sale at Phillips is available for inspection by prospective buyers prior to the auction. Phillips accepts bids on lots on the basis that bidders (and independent experts on their behalf, to the extent appropriate given the nature and value of the lot and the bidder’s own expertise) have fully inspected the lot prior to bidding and have satisfied themselves as to both the condition of the lot and the accuracy of its description. (c) Prospective buyers acknowledge that many lots are of an age and type which means that they are not in perfect condition. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips may prepare and provide condition reports to assist prospective buyers when they are inspecting lots. Catalogue descriptions and condition reports may make reference to particular imperfections of a lot, but bidders should note that lots may have other faults not expressly referred to in the catalogue or condition report. All dimensions are approximate. Illustrations are for identification purposes only and cannot be used as precise indications of size or to convey full information as to the actual condition of lots. (d) Information provided to prospective buyers in respect of any lot, including any pre-sale estimate, whether written or oral, and information in any catalogue, condition or other report, commentary or valuation, is not a representation of fact but rather a statement of opinion held by Phillips. Any pre-sale estimate may not be relied on as a prediction of the selling price or value of the lot and may be revised from time to time by Phillips in our absolute discretion. Neither Phillips nor any of our affiliated companies shall be liable for any difference between the presale estimates for any lot and the actual price achieved at auction or upon resale.
(c) Telephone bidders are required to submit bids on the Telephone Bid Form, a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Telephone bidding is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least $1,000. Phillips reserves the right to require written confirmation of a successful bid from a telephone bidder by fax or otherwise immediately after such bid is accepted by the auctioneer. Telephone bids may be recorded and, by bidding on the telephone, a bidder consents to the recording of the conversation. (d) Bidders may participate in an auction by bidding online through Phillips’s online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. To bid online, bidders must register online at least 24 hours before the start of the auction. Online bidding is subject to approval by Phillips’s bid department in our sole discretion. As noted in Paragraph 3 above, Phillips encourages online bidders to inspect prior to the auction any lot(s) on which they may bid, and condition reports are available upon request. Bidding in a live auction can progress quickly. To ensure that online bidders are not placed at a disadvantage when bidding against bidders in the room or on the telephone, the procedure for placing bids through Phillips’s online bidding platform is a one-step process. By clicking the bid button on the computer screen, a bidder submits a bid. Online bidders acknowledge and agree that bids so submitted are final and may not under any circumstances be amended or retracted. During a live auction, when bids other than online bids are placed, they will be displayed on the online bidder’s computer screen as ‘floor’ bids. ‘Floor’ bids include bids made by the auctioneer to protect the reserve. In the event that an online bid and a ‘floor’ or ‘phone’ bid are identical, the ‘floor’ bid may take precedence at the auctioneer’s discretion. The next bidding increment is shown for the convenience of online bidders in the bid button. The bidding increment available to online bidders may vary from the next bid actually taken by the auctioneer, as the auctioneer may deviate from Phillips’s standard increments at any time at his or her discretion, but an online bidder may only place a bid in a whole bidding increment. Phillips’s bidding increments are published in the Guide for Prospective Buyers. (e) When making a bid, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, a bidder accepts personal liability to pay the purchase price, as described more fully in Paragraph 6 (a) below, plus all other applicable charges unless it has been explicitly agreed in writing with Phillips before the commencement of the auction that the bidder is acting as agent on behalf of an identified third party acceptable to Phillips and that we will only look to the principal for such payment. (f) By participating in the auction, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, each prospective buyer represents and warrants that any bids placed by such person, or on such person’s behalf, are not the product of any collusive or other anti-competitive agreement and are otherwise consistent with federal and state antitrust law. (g) Arranging absentee, telephone and online bids is a free service provided by Phillips to prospective buyers. While we undertake to exercise reasonable care in undertaking such activity, we cannot accept liability for failure to execute such bids except where such failure is caused by our willful misconduct.
(h) Employees of Phillips and our affiliated companies, including the auctioneer, may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures.
(i) Phillips will accept payment in cash provided that the total amount paid in cash or cash equivalents does not exceed US$2,000. Buyers paying in cash should do so in person at our Client Accounting Desk at 450 Park Avenue during regular weekday business hours.
5 Conduct of the Auction (a) Unless otherwise indicated by the symbol •, each lot is offered subject to a reserve, which is the confidential minimum selling price agreed by Phillips with the seller. The reserve will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate at the time of the auction.
(ii) Personal checks and banker’s draft s are accepted if drawn on a US bank and the buyer provides to us acceptable government issued identification. Checks and banker’s draft s should be made payable to “Phillips.” If payment is sent by mail, please send the check or banker’s draft to the attention of the Client Accounting Department at 450 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10022 and make sure that the sale and lot number is written on the check. Checks or banker’s draft s drawn by third parties will not be accepted.
(b) The auctioneer has discretion at any time to refuse any bid, withdraw any lot, re-offer a lot for sale (including after the fall of the hammer) if he or she believes there may be error or dispute and take such other action as he or she deems reasonably appropriate. Phillips shall have no liability whatsoever for any such action taken by the auctioneer. If any dispute arises after the sale, our sale record is conclusive. The auctioneer may accept bids made by a company affiliated with Phillips provided that the bidder does not know the reserve placed on the lot. (c) The auctioneer will commence and advance the bidding at levels and in increments he or she considers appropriate. In order to protect the reserve on any lot, the auctioneer may place one or more bids on behalf of the seller up to the reserve without indicating he or she is doing so, either by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders. If a lot is offered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low pre-sale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the auctioneer may deem such lot unsold. (d) The sale will be conducted in US dollars and payment is due in US dollars. For the benefi t of international clients, pre-sale estimates in the auction catalogue may be shown in pounds sterling and/or euros and, if so, will refl ect approximate exchange rates. Accordingly, estimates in pounds sterling or euros should be treated only as a guide. If a currency converter is operated during the sale, it is done so as a courtesy to bidders, but Phillips accepts no responsibility for any errors in currency conversion calculation. (e) Subject to the auctioneer’s reasonable discretion, the highest bidder accepted by the auctioneer will be the buyer and the striking of the hammer marks the acceptance of the highest bid and the conclusion of a contract for sale between the seller and the buyer. Risk and responsibility for the lot passes to the buyer as set forth in Paragraph 7 below. (f) If a lot is not sold, the auctioneer will announce that it has been “passed,” “withdrawn,” “returned to owner” or “bought-in.” (g) Any post-auction sale of lots offered at auction shall incorporate these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty as if sold in the auction. 6 Purchase Price and Payment (a) The buyer agrees to pay us, in addition to the hammer price of the lot, the buyer’s premium and any applicable sales tax (the ‘Purchase Price’). The buyer’s premium is 26% of the hammer price up to and including $600,000, 21% of the portion of the hammer price above $600,000 up to and including $6,000,000 and 14.5% of the portion of the hammer price above $6,000,000. Phillips reserves the right to pay from our compensation an introductory commission to one or more third parties for assisting in the sale of property offered and sold at auction.
(b) Sales tax, use tax and excise and other taxes are payable in accordance with applicable law. All prices, fees, charges and expenses set out in these Conditions of Sale are quoted exclusive of applicable taxes. Phillips will only accept valid resale certificates from US dealers as proof of exemption from sales tax. All foreign buyers should contact the Client Accounting Department about tax matters. (c) Unless otherwise agreed, a buyer is required to pay for a purchased lot immediately following the auction regardless of any intention to obtain an export or import license or other permit for such lot. Payments must be made by the invoiced party in US dollars either by cash, check drawn on a US bank or wire transfer, as follows:
(iii) Payment by wire transfer may be sent directly to Phillips. Bank transfer details: Signature Bank 485 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10022 SWIFT code: SIGNUS33 ABA routing no.: 026013576 For account of: Phillips Auctioneers LLC Account no.: 1502977462 Please reference the relevant sale and lot number. (d) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa and Mastercard to pay for invoices of $30,000 or less. (e) Title in a purchased lot will not pass until Phillips has received the Purchase Price for that lot in cleared funds. Phillips is not obliged to release a lot to the buyer until title in the lot has passed and appropriate identification has been provided, and any earlier release does not affect the passing of title or the buyer’s unconditional obligation to pay the Purchase Price. 7 Collection of Property (a) Phillips will not release a lot to the buyer until we have received payment of its Purchase Price in full in cleared funds, the buyer has paid all outstanding amounts due to Phillips or any of our affiliated companies, including any charges payable pursuant to Paragraph 8 (a) below, and the buyer has satisfied such other terms as we in our sole discretion shall require, including completing any anti-money laundering or anti-terrorism financing checks. As soon as a buyer has satisfied all of the foregoing conditions, he or she should contact our Shipping Department at +1 212 940 1372 or +1 212 940 1373 to arrange for collection of purchased property. (b) The buyer must arrange for collection of a purchased lot within seven days of the date of the auction. Promptly after the auction, we will transfer all lots to our warehouse located at 29-09 37th Avenue in Long Island City, Queens, New York. All purchased lots should be collected at this location during our regular weekday business hours. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will upon request transfer on a biweekly basis purchased lots suitable for hand-carry back to our premises at 450 Park Avenue, New York, New York for collection within 30 days following the date of the auction. Purchased lots are at the buyer’s risk, including the responsibility for insurance, from the earlier to occur of (i) the date of collection or (ii) seven days after the auction. Until risk passes, Phillips will compensate the buyer for any loss or damage to a purchased lot up to a maximum of the Purchase Price paid, subject to our usual exclusions for loss or damage to property. (c) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will, without charge, wrap purchased lots for hand-carry only. We will, at the buyer’s expense, either provide packing, handling, insurance and shipping services or coordinate with shipping agents instructed by the buyer in order to facilitate such services for property bought at Phillips. Any such instruction, whether or not made at our recommendation, is entirely at the buyer’s risk and responsibility, and we will not be liable for acts or omissions of third party packers or shippers. Third party shippers should contact us by telephone at +1 212 940 1376 or by fax at +1 212 924 6477 at least 24 hours in advance of collection in order to schedule pickup. (d) Phillips will require presentation of government issued identification prior to release of a lot to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative.
8 Failure to Collect Purchases (a) If the buyer pays the Purchase Price but fails to collect a purchased lot within 30 days of the auction, the buyer will incur a late collection fee of $10 per day for each uncollected lot. Additional charges may apply to oversized lots. We will not release purchased lots to the buyer until all such charges have been paid in full. (b) If a purchased lot is paid for but not collected within six months of the auction, the buyer authorizes Phillips, upon notice, to arrange a resale of the item by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips’s reasonable discretion. The proceeds of such sale will be applied to pay for storage charges and any other outstanding costs and expenses owed by the buyer to Phillips or our affiliated companies and the remainder will be forfeited unless collected by the buyer within two years of the original auction. 9 Remedies for Non-Payment (a) Without prejudice to any rights the seller may have, if the buyer without prior agreement fails to make payment of the Purchase Price for a lot in cleared funds within seven days of the auction, Phillips may in our sole discretion exercise one or more of the following remedies: (i) store the lot at Phillips’s premises or elsewhere at the buyer’s sole risk and expense at the same rates as set forth in Paragraph 8 (a) above; (ii) cancel the sale of the lot, retaining any partial payment of the Purchase Price as liquidated damages; (iii) reject future bids from the buyer or render such bids subject to payment of a deposit; (iv) charge interest at 12% per annum from the date payment became due until the date the Purchase Price is received in cleared funds; (v) subject to notification of the buyer, exercise a lien over any of the buyer’s property which is in the possession of Phillips and instruct our affiliated companies to exercise a lien over any of the buyer’s property which is in their possession and, in each case, no earlier than 30 days from the date of such notice, arrange the sale of such property and apply the proceeds to the amount owed to Phillips or any of our affiliated companies after the deduction from sale proceeds of our standard vendor’s commission and all sale-related expenses; (vi) resell the lot by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips reasonable discretion, it being understood that in the event such resale is for less than the original hammer price and buyer’s premium for that lot, the buyer will remain liable for the shortfall together with all costs incurred in such resale; (vii) commence legal proceedings to recover the hammer price and buyer’s premium for that lot, together with interest and the costs of such proceedings; (viii) set off the outstanding amount remaining unpaid by the buyer against any amounts which we or any of our affiliated companies may owe the buyer in any other transactions; (ix) release the name and address of the buyer to the seller to enable the seller to commence legal proceedings to recover the amounts due and legal costs or (x) take such other action as we deem necessary or appropriate. (b) As security to us for full payment by the buyer of all outstanding amounts due to Phillips and our affiliated companies, Phillips retains, and the buyer grants to us, a security interest in each lot purchased at auction by the buyer and in any other property or money of the buyer in, or coming into, our possession or the possession of one of our affiliated companies. We may apply such money or deal with such property as the Uniform Commercial Code or other applicable law permits a secured creditor to do. In the event that we exercise a lien over property in our possession because the buyer is in default to one of our affiliated companies, we will so notify the buyer. Our security interest in any individual lot will terminate upon actual delivery of the lot to the buyer or the buyer’s agent. (c) In the event the buyer is in default of payment to any of our affiliated companies, the buyer also irrevocably authorizes Phillips to pledge the buyer’s property in our possession by actual or constructive delivery to our affiliated company as security for the payment of any outstanding amount due. Phillips will notify the buyer if the buyer’s property has been delivered to an affiliated company by way of pledge. 10 Rescission by Phillips Phillips shall have the right, but not the obligation, to rescind a sale without notice to the buyer if we reasonably believe that there is a material breach of the seller’s representations and warranties or the Authorship Warranty or an adverse claim is made by a third party. Upon notice of Phillips’s election to rescind the sale, the buyer will promptly return the lot to Phillips, and we will then refund the Purchase Price paid to us. As described more fully in Paragraph 13 below, the refund shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips and the seller with respect to such rescinded sale.
11 Export, Import and Endangered Species Licenses and Permits Before bidding for any property, prospective buyers are advised to make their own inquiries as to whether a license is required to export a lot from the US or to import it into another country. Prospective buyers are advised that some countries prohibit the import of property made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value. Accordingly, prior to bidding, prospective buyers considering export of purchased lots should familiarize themselves with relevant export and import regulations of the countries concerned. It is solely the buyer’s responsibility to comply with these laws and to obtain any necessary export, import and endangered species licenses or permits. Failure to obtain a license or permit or delay in so doing will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips has marked in the catalogue lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material, but we do not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species. 12 Privacy (a) You acknowledge and understand that we may process your personal data (including potentially special category data) in accordance with our privacy policy from time to time as published at www.phillips.com or available by emailing dataprotection@phillips.com. (b) Our privacy policy sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collect and process; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data (including for example the provision of auction, private sale and related services; the performance and enforcement of these terms and conditions; the carrying out of identity and credit checks; keeping you informed about upcoming auctions, exhibitions and special events; and generally where reasonably necessary in the management and operation of our business); (iii) the lawful bases on which we rely in undertaking our processing of your personal data; (iv) your rights in respect of our processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information as required by applicable laws. (c) Phillips premises and sale and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes and will be filmed during the auction for simultaneous live broadcast on our and third party websites and applications. By remaining in these areas, you acknowledge that you may be photographed, filmed and recorded and grant your permission for your likeness and voice to be included in such recordings. If you do not wish to be photographed or filmed or appear in such recordings, please speak to a member of Phillips staff. Your communications with Phillips, including by telephone and online (e.g. telephone and on-line bidding) may also be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process it in accordance with our Privacy Policy available at www.phillips.com. 13 Limitation of Liability (a) Subject to subparagraph (e) below, the total liability of Phillips, our affiliated companies and the seller to the buyer in connection with the sale of a lot shall be limited to the Purchase Price actually paid by the buyer for the lot. (b) Except as otherwise provided in this Paragraph 14, none of Phillips, any of our affiliated companies or the seller (i) is liable for any errors or omissions, whether orally or in writing, in information provided to prospective buyers by Phillips or any of our affiliated companies or (ii) accepts responsibility to any bidder in respect of acts or omissions, whether negligent or otherwise, by Phillips or any of our affiliated companies in connection with the conduct of the auction or for any other matter relating to the sale of any lot. (c) All warranties other than the Authorship Warranty, express or implied, including any warranty of satisfactory quality and fitness for purpose, are specifically excluded by Phillips, our affiliated companies and the seller to the fullest extent permitted by law. (d) Subject to subparagraph (e) below, none of Phillips, any of our affiliated companies or the seller shall be liable to the buyer for any loss or damage beyond the refund of the Purchase Price referred to in subparagraph (a) above, whether such loss or damage is characterized as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the Purchase Price to the fullest extent permitted by law.
(e) No provision in these Conditions of Sale shall be deemed to exclude or limit the liability of Phillips or any of our affiliated companies to the buyer in respect of any fraud or fraudulent misrepresentation made by any of us or in respect of death or personal injury caused by our negligent acts or omissions. 14 Copyright The copyright in all images, illustrations and written materials produced by or for Phillips relating to a lot, including the contents of this catalogue, is and shall remain at all times the property of Phillips and such images and materials may not be used by the buyer or any other party without our prior written consent. Phillips and the seller make no representations or warranties that the buyer of a lot will acquire any copyright or other reproduction rights in it. 15 General (a) These Conditions of Sale, as changed or supplemented as provided in Paragraph 1 above, and Authorship Warranty set out the entire agreement between the parties with respect to the transactions contemplated herein and supersede all prior and contemporaneous written, oral or implied understandings, representations and agreements. (b) Notices to Phillips shall be in writing and addressed to the department in charge of the sale, quoting the reference number specified at the beginning of the sale catalogue. Notices to clients shall be addressed to the last address notified by them in writing to Phillips. (c) These Conditions of Sale are not assignable by any buyer without our prior written consent but are binding on the buyer’s successors, assigns and representatives. (d) Should any provision of these Conditions of Sale be held void, invalid or unenforceable for any reason, the remaining provisions shall remain in full force and effect. No failure by any party to exercise, nor any delay in exercising, any right or remedy under these Conditions of Sale shall act as a waiver or release thereof in whole or in part. 16 Law and Jurisdiction (a) The rights and obligations of the parties with respect to these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty, the conduct of the auction and any matters related to any of the foregoing shall be governed by and interpreted in accordance with laws of the State of New York, excluding its conflicts of law rules. (b) Phillips, all bidders and all sellers agree to the exclusive jurisdiction of the (i) state courts of the State of New York located in New York City and (ii) the federal courts for the Southern and Eastern Districts of New York to settle all disputes arising in connection with all aspects of all matters or transactions to which these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty relate or apply. (c) All bidders and sellers irrevocably consent to service of process or any other documents in connection with proceedings in any court by facsimile transmission, personal service, delivery by mail or in any other manner permitted by New York law or the law of the place of service, at the last address of the bidder or seller known to Phillips. 17 Sales Tax (a) Unless the buyer has delivered a valid certificate evidencing exemption from tax, the buyer shall pay applicable sales tax on any lot picked up or delivered anywhere in the United States. (b) If the point of delivery or transfer of possession for any purchased lot to the buyer or the buyer’s designee (including any private carrier) occurs in New York, then the sale is subject to New York sales tax at the existing rate of 8.875%. (c) If the buyer arranges shipping for any purchased lot in New York by a common carrier (such as the United States Postal Service, United Parcel Service, or FedEx) that does not operate under a private agreement or contract with negotiated terms to be delivered to an out of state destination, then the sale is not subject to New York sales tax.
Authorship Warranty Phillips warrants the authorship of property in this auction catalogue described in headings in bold or CAPITALIZED type for a period of five years from date of sale by Phillips, subject to the exclusions and limitations set forth below. (a) Phillips gives this Authorship Warranty only to the original buyer of record (i.e., the registered successful bidder) of any lot. This Authorship Warranty does not extend to (i) subsequent owners of the property, including purchasers or recipients by way of gift from the original buyer, heirs, successors, beneficiaries and assigns; (ii) property where the description in the catalogue states that there is a conflict of opinion on the authorship of the property; (iii) property where our attribution of authorship was on the date of sale consistent with the generally accepted opinions of specialists, scholars or other experts; (iv) property whose description or dating is proved inaccurate by means of scientific methods or tests not generally accepted for use at the time of the publication of the catalogue or which were at such time deemed unreasonably expensive or impractical to use or likely in our reasonable opinion to have caused damage or loss in value to the lot or (v) property where there has been no material loss in value from the value of the lot had it been as described in the heading of the catalogue entry. (b) In any claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty, Phillips reserves the right, as a condition to rescinding any sale under this warranty, to require the buyer to provide to us at the buyer’s expense the written opinions of two recognized experts approved in advance by Phillips. We shall not be bound by any expert report produced by the buyer and reserve the right to consult our own experts at our expense. If Phillips agrees to rescind a sale under the Authorship Warranty, we shall refund to the buyer the reasonable costs charged by the experts commissioned by the buyer and approved in advance by us. (c) Subject to the exclusions set forth in subparagraph (a) above, the buyer may bring a claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty provided that (i) he or she has notified Phillips in writing within three months of receiving any information which causes the buyer to question the authorship of the lot, specifying the auction in which the property was included, the lot number in the auction catalogue and the reasons why the authorship of the lot is being questioned and (ii) the buyer returns the lot to Phillips to the saleroom in which it was purchased in the same condition as at the time of its auction and is able to transfer good and marketable title in the lot free from any third party claim arising after the date of the auction. Phillips has discretion to waive any of the foregoing requirements set forth in this subparagraph (c) or subparagraph (b) above. (d) The buyer understands and agrees that the exclusive remedy for any breach of the Authorship Warranty shall be rescission of the sale and refund of the original Purchase Price paid. This remedy shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips, any of our affiliated companies and the seller and is in lieu of any other remedy available as a matter of law or equity. This means that none of Phillips, any of our affiliated companies or the seller shall be liable for loss or damage beyond the remedy expressly provided in this Authorship Warranty, whether such loss or damage is characterized as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the original Purchase Price.
450 Park Avenue New York 10022 phillips.com +1 212 940 1200 bidsnewyork@phillips.com Please return this form by email to bidsnewyork@phillips.com at least 24 hours before the sale. Please read carefully the information in the right column and note that it is important that you indicate whether you are applying as an individual or on behalf of a company. Please select the type of bid you wish to make with this form (please select one): Paddle Number
In-person Absentee Bidding Telephone Bidding
As a private individual On behalf of a company
Title
• If you cannot attend the sale, we can execute bids confidentially on your behalf.
Sale Number First Name
Sale Date
Surname Account Number
Company (if applicable) Address
City
• For absentee bids, indicate your maximum limit for each lot, excluding the buyer’s premium and any applicable sales or use tax. Your bid will be executed at the lowest price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. On no reserve lots, in the absence of other bids, your bid will be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount specified, if less than 50% of the low estimate.
Zip Code Phone
Mobile
Fax
Phone (for Phone Bidding only)
• Your bid must be submitted in the currency of the sale and may be rounded down to the nearest amount consistent with the auctioneer’s bidding increments.
Phone number to call at the time of sale (for Phone Bidding only) 2.
• If we receive identical bids, the first bid received will take precedence.
Please complete the following section for telephone and absentee bids only Lot Number
Brief Description
In Consecutive Order
• Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or buyer’s premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The buyer’s premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 26% of the hammer price up to and including $600,000, 21% of the portion of the hammer price above $600,000 up to and including $6,000,000 and 14.5% of the portion of the hammer price above $6,000,000.
• “Buy” or unlimited bids will not be accepted. Alternative bids can be placed by using the word “OR” between lot numbers.
State/Country
1.
• Company purchases: If you are buying under a business entity, we require a copy of government-issued identification (such as the certificate of incorporation) as well as proof of owners and directors to verify the status of the company. • Conditions of Sale: All bids are placed and executed, and all lots are sold and purchased, subject to the Conditions of Sale printed in the catalogue. Please read them carefully before placing a bid. Your attention is drawn to Paragraph 4 of the Conditions of Sale.
Please indicate in what capacity you will be bidding (please select one):
Sale Title
• Private purchases: Proof of identity in the form of government-issued identification and proof of address will be required.
US $ Limit* Absentee Bids Only
• Arranging absentee and telephone bids is a free service provided by us to prospective buyers. While we will exercise reasonable care in undertaking such activity, we cannot accept liability for errors relating to execution of your bids except in cases of willful misconduct. Agreement to bid by telephone must be confirmed by you promptly in writing or by fax. Telephone bid lines may be recorded. • Please submit your bids to the Bid Department by email to bidsnewyork@phillips.com or by fax at +1 212 924 1749 at least 24 hours before the sale. You will receive confirmation by email within one business day. To reach the Bid Department by phone please call +1 212 940 1228. • Absent prior payment arrangements, please provide a bank reference. Payment can be made by cash (up to $2,000, per calendar year), credit card (up to $30,000), money order, wire transfer, bank check or personal check with identification, drawn on US banks. • Lots cannot be collected until payment has cleared and all charges have been paid. • By signing this Bid Form, you acknowledge and understand that we may process your personal data (including potentially special category data) in accordance with Phillips’s Privacy Policy as published at www.phillips.com or available by emailing dataprotection@phillips.com. • Phillips’s premises may be subject to video surveillance and recording. Telephone calls (e.g., telephone bidding) may also be recorded. We may process that information in accordance with our Privacy Policy.
* Excluding Buyer’s Premium and sales or use taxes
Signature
Date
By checking this box, you confirm your registration/bid(s) as above and accept the Conditions of Sale of Phillips as stated in our catalogues and on our website.
Please check this box to receive emails about upcoming sales, exhibitions, and special events offered by members of the Phillips group, as referenced in our Privacy Policy available on our website at www.phillips.com, where you may also update your email preferences or unsubscribe at any time.
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