Philadelphia City Paper, City Guide, August 29th, 2012

30 YEAR S O F INDEPENDENT JOURNALISM | c itY pApE R .n Et

c i t y pa p e r ’ s g u i d e t o p h i l a d e l p h i a

2012 - 2013

EST 1930

EST 1930

If You Went To The Other Guy, You Made A Misteak!!!

PAT’S KING OF STEAKS 9th & PASSYUNK AVE.

welcome to our city we’re here to help you get the most out of it. words by Theresa Everline This publication by Philadelphia City Paper staff is our way of offering welcome to all new transplants as well as those in search of a richer Philadelphia experience. This metropolis is home to clichés about cheesesteaks (yes, try one) and is the founding spot of, well, the nation itself.

As a way to introduce you to Philly and encourage you to explore it, City Guide lays it all out for you in two sections.

“The Basics” provides a primer — a cheat sheet, if you will. These short articles provide some context for the Philly experience. Read them to get up to speed on some of the city’s characters, events and quirks. “The Hoods” introduces all of Philly’s neighborhoods, with their variety of styles, people and architecture. For each we offer an overview, a list of quick-hit spots, civic information to help you be a good citizen and listings of all sorts of establishments.

Explore the landscape. Enjoy the idiosyncrasies. We hope you’ll stay a while.

PUBLISHER Nancy Stuski

EDITOR IN CHIEF Theresa Everline

MANAGING EDITORS Emily Guendelsberger, Josh Middleton

PHOTOGRAPHER Neal Santos

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Madeline Bates, Michael Blancato, Jodi Bosin, Chris Brown, Felicia D’Ambrosio, Frida Garza, Dan McQuade, Holly Otterbein, Patrick Rapa, Caroline Russock, Courtney Sexton, Brittany Thomas, Isaiah Thompson, Nina Willbach, Andrew Wimer

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Polimeno

CREATIVE/ART DIRECTOR Reseca Peskin

CONTRIBUTING DESIGNERS Brenna Adams, Matt Egger, Evan M. Lopez

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Nick Cavanaugh (x260), Sharon MacWilliams (x262), Stephan Sitzai (x258)

ACCOUNT MANAGERS Sara Carano (x228), Brooke Lutz (x237), Chris Scartelli (x215), Donald Snyder (x213) City Guid It is e is a p Mon publish ed a ublicatio tgom n n e in So ry, Che nually an of Phila d ster, d dis uth J avail B tribu elphia C e u rsey able ity ted in and cks and free Add D N Phila Paper. of ch elaw orth ition delp e a a r r a r n e g l hia, e, li cop Dela cou $4.5 perm 0 per co ies may mited to ware. C nties, an be p d it o py. N issio y Gu ne c u n r op op ide is ch from of the p erson m ased fro y per re from each iss ad m ou ay, w ublis ue ins r offi er. itho pape erting p . Pennsy her, tak ce a e mo ut prior lvania rinte r or t w mag re th d ma Con laws azin an o ritten ter ten pr right ts copyr e withou ial of any ohibits a ne copy ny p kind prod s reserv ight © 2 t the co erso into ed. N nsen 012, uced n any t P o w o new h part f the ithou il a Phila d se s of lp p t writ u delp h b ia t lishe his p City ten p hia th r. u occu an the c City Pap ermissio blication Paper. A ance er as pied n m f a r y be ll llatio om t ) for sum glad he es re n ac to fu rnish cidental of charg no oblig publish es fo e e a sig r the ation (ot r. ned rrors in he ad le a com tter to t vertisin ctual sp r a men g ts to he buyin , but w ce ill b g edito rial@ public. S e e cityp aper nd .net.

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MARKETING/ONLINE COORDINATOR Jennifer Francano (x252)

SALES AND FINANCIAL COORDINATOR Tricia Bradley (x232)

OFFICE COORDINATOR Alexis Pierce

CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Mark Burkert Philadelphia City Paper // 123 Chestnut St., 3rd floor Philadelphia, PA 19106 // Phone: 215-735-8444 // Fax: 215-735-8353 // citypaper.net

table of contents opener 4

26

STAGe WHISperS A quick survey of some of Philly’s finer music venues.

28

oUT on THe ToWn You’re here, you’re queer. Let’s do this.

29

FIeLDer’S CHoICe Philly’s full of good sports and boisterous fans.

30

THe eXHIBITIonISTS Art in Philly.

Welcome to our city: We’re here to help you get the most out of it.

THe BASICS

THe HooDS

pHILADeLpHIA The story so far (or: How we got over).

34

Gayborhood

37

Old City/Washington Square West

12

Beer AnD LoATHInG Our medieval liquor laws are enough to drive you to drink.

40

Society Hill/South Street East

14

SAY WHAT YoU WILL A guide to the quirks of the local lexicon.

42

Chinatown/Spring Garden

44

Center City West/Rittenhouse

15

TWo WHeeLS GooD The dos and don’ts of biking in Philly.

48

Bella Vista/Queen Village

50

Graduate Hospital/Grays Ferry/South Street West

52

South Philly

54

East Passyunk/Italian Market

57

West Philly/University City/ Southwest Philly

62

Manayunk/Roxborough/East Falls

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16 18 20

pHILADeLpHIA BICYCLe MAp Point your wheels here and ride like the wind.

TAKInG IT To THe STreeTS Forget independence — Philly’s festivals make a declaration of fun.

SepTA reGIonAL rAIL AnD rAIL TrAnSIT MAp The inside track on our trains, buses and trolleys.

22

oH, THe pLACeS YoU’LL Go (To eAT)!

A tour of some of the best meal tickets in town.

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Fairmount/Art Museum/Francisville

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AroUnD THe WorLD Your guide to Philly’s ethnic-food enclaves.

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Mount Airy/Chestnut Hill/Germantown

69

Northern Liberties

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SoUnDS LIKe US Our music editor takes us on a wicked ride through Philly’s music scene.

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Fishtown/Kensington/Port Richmond

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The Northeast

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North Philly

// photo by neal Santos

a user guide to the city

the basics

Location Race Street Pier // photo by Neal Santos

historical timeline

B A SIC S

philadelphia words by Patrick Rapa illustrations by Evan M. Lopez

the story so far (or: how we got over)

1854: The Meat Up Up till this point, Philadelphia proper was simply the area between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers and Vine and South streets. During the act of consolidation, 28 surrounding townships, boroughs and districts were carefully selected and cobbled together to form the precise shape of a pork chop.

6,000 years ago: Saga Genesis In the beginning, Adam and Eve galloped bareback around Pangaea on their Model T-Rexes, doing donuts and dropping babies.

1799-1848: Follow the Leader 1682: Monarchy from the U.K. Step aside, Lenapeeps, Finnzies, Dutchwives and Swedeypies — Penn scored a permission slip from Charles II to found the city and state for the glory of Mum England. The charter called for a “greene country towne” full of parks and trees. Philadelphians instead subdivided their lots and began gathering in unsanitary crowds in Old City, a tradition that continues to this day.

1682

1706

Pre-Colonial: Shackamaxed Out

1774

Competition wasn’t exactly stiff for famous firsts back in the post-Independence days.

And that’s the way Philly liked it. We had the nation’s first water works, fine arts promotion society, daily newspaper, art institution, carbonated water, insurance company, public bank, abolition act, penny newspaper, use of gas as an illuminant, regular comics paper and more. Philadelphia also created America’s first laurels, then sat on them.

1793

1799

1854

1793: And It Was All Yellow Fever

Before there was a Philadelphia, there was a Shackamaxon. A Lenni Lenape Indian village stood in the place we now call Kensington, and the residents hunted, gathered, farmed and buried souvenir arrowheads. They never heard of Jesus or white people until William Penn showed up with a treaty and a quill.

Blah blah blah. You can visit the Lenape today in Oklahoma.

Already wildly unpopular, mosquitoes suffered a PR nightmare after a few people they landed on, like only 5,000, allegedly got a touch of yellow fever, barfed up a couple blood clots and died a little bit. Retaliatory swatting claimed untold millions.

1706-1790: Ben Franklin, Founding Philanderer Philly’s patron saint started the New World’s first newspaper, hospital and library, invented the lightning rod, the iron furnace stove, odometer and bifocals. A renowned carouser, he also invented the pickup line: Well done is better than well said, now get thee wench into my bed.

1774-1781: Down with the King After years of unrepped taxes and flavorless food — not to mention the emotional toll — we were ready to just delete Britain from Friendster and move on, but of course there had to be drama. The Revolutionary War happened and it was this whole big thing. Philly was the epicenter for colonial dissent, hosting two Continental Congresses (a record!) and vanity-pressing Common Sense, the Declaration and the Constitution. After the war, we were the capital of the United States, until we got bored of it.

1981 and 1985: A Series of Unfortunate Events The moments that continue to define and haunt modern Philadelphia are two instances of violence involving AfricanAmericans and the police. On a December day in 1981, fate’s crossroads were at 13th and Locust; so were Mumia Abu-Jamal and officer Daniel Faulkner. In 1985, Mayor Wilson Goode and the PPD made the curious decision to drop a bomb on the Osage Avenue compound of anarcho-primitivist organization MOVE. Since then, race relations have been great and our cops are like big cuddly teddy bears with guns.

1876

Early 1900s: Keystone Cops

Today: Approaching Perfection

Once the most important city in the universe, Philadelphia started getting a rep for corruption and backwardness. The mob was everywhere, Prohibition was openly mocked, somebody leaked our pretzel recipe to Auntie Ann and our cops were crookeder than our hockey players’ noses.

A real live brigadier general, one Smedley Butler, was brought in to clean up the town by militarizing the police force and declaring war on speakeasies and hookers. Dude lasted about a week.

Our citizens share. Our cops behave. Our bike lanes are silky smooth. The Roots are the biggest band in the world. Our sports teams are pretty good. We have not had a crime or fire or complaint in so long that all the people who know what those words mean are dead and awaiting burial. As you read this, a massagebot is gently working on those knots in your neck and shoulders. “Bid farewell to fear and worry, friend,” it whispers. “You are home.”

1900

1950

1973

1981

2008

2011

2008: Ballers Once More

1876: New Century Schoolbook Like some overcompensating nouveauriche douchebag, the U.S. threw itself a massive 100th birthday rager — the Centennial International Exposition!

The first World’s Fair! — in Fairmount Park. We all gazed at modern marvels and, when everyone finally went home, we left some of the buildings standing cuz everybody loves a party but nobody wants to clean up.

1992

Concluding a 25-year sports championship drought that had steadily eroded the city’s self-esteem, the Phillies won the World Series. Only a few cars got flipped over and the fires were few and manageable.

1960-1983: You Mad? Philadelphia was the toast of the sports world.

The Sixers and Flyers were champs twice, the Phillies, Eagles and Rocky all took home hardware.

Around the same time, Gamble and Huff were putting Philly soul and funk on the national stage.

It was a good time to be alive.

Post-WWII: Boom and Gloom Philly’s population peaked at more than 2 million in 1950 and everybody was polite and had polio. Then came white flight: Caucasians flocked to the suburbs, led by Connie Mack’s Philadelphia A’s, who ran all the way to Kansas City.

1992: Mayor Ed In 1991, Ed Rendell, a nondescript former DA, made his second run for mayor, this time defeating Frank “billy club in my cummerbund” Rizzo, who by that time was deceased. Ed’s infamous appetite is considered the driving factor behind Philadelphia’s economic turnaround, which saw once-decrepit Center City blossom into one huge restaurant district. He went on to become governor, chairman of the DNC and a recurring figure on Neanderthal sports talk shows. c i t y pa p e r . n e t

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B a SIC S

booze cruise

beer and loathing

our medieval liquor laws are enough to drive you to drink.

words by Isaiah Thompson In the summer of 2012, an amazing, remarkable, first-of-its-kind thing took place in our state’s capitol: The idea of maybe not letting a state-owned monopoly impose its bizarre will on Pennsylvanians was actually discussed, among legislators, on the floor of the state House of Representatives.

It might not sound like much, but Pennsylvania has had some of the crotchetiest liquor laws in the country since ... well, always. This year is the first that state Republicans — their other plans for Pennsylvania (destroying public schools, leasing every inch of forest for fracking) aside — seemed close to doing something about it. Or maybe not so close. The actual vote to privatize liquor sales was killed, and you, my thirsty friend, remain but a vassal to the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board and its Orwellian rules for how, when and to what degree of hardship you can purchase alcohol.

To be fair, the PLCB means decent jobs for plenty of perfectly decent people who can get these jobs via an old-fashioned civil-service system, and dismantling it would mean the loss of those good jobs for those good people. That 12

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said, the PLCB is better known to most Pennyslvanians for its strange rules. How strange?

Strange enough that the PLCB won’t let you buy wine in supermarkets, but did experiment with magical “wine kiosks” at supermarkets that turned out not to work. Strange enough that celebrity chef Jose Garces is, like, the only dude in Philly allowed to sell wine without operating a state store. Strange enough that beer must be purchased either from beer distributors “in quantities of not less than a case,” from the relatively few delis that resell distributor beer for at least twice the distributor’s price, or from bars with “take out” licenses, which might charge even more.

Why? Because the PLCB says so, that’s why.

There was that glimmer this year that Republicans, who control just about everything in Harrisburg right now, were willing to loosen the PLCB’s iron grip. But then it turned out that they were too busy cutting services for poor people in Philly. So, for now at least, the system remains, and the only ways to beat it are illegal and difficult to pull off without a car to drive across state lines. Best just to face it: One way or another, you’re gonna pay the price of living in Pennsylvania, so you might as well strategize.

Center City-wise, there are plenty of delis that sell beer, but for the best selection, head to boutique suds shops like Beer Heaven (1100 S. Columbus Blvd., Suite 23, 215-2715248) or The Foodery (837 N. Second St., 215-238-6077; 324 S. 10th St., 215-9281111, fooderybeer.com), which let you mixa-six from tons of individually sold beers, local and otherwise. Hawthornes (738 S. 11th St., 215-627-3012, hawthornecafe.com) even has a growler list. But be forewarned: The prices ain’t low.

If you’re able to transport a case of beer, Bella Vista Beer Distributors (755 S. 11th St., 215-627-6465, bellavistabeverage.com) boasts an unusually wide selection, including plenty of Belgians and an entire room full of seasonals.

Wine-lovers will do well to visit the Reading Terminal Market’s Blue Mountain Wine

(51 N. 12th St., 215-238-9022, bluemountainwine.com) or the back room of Garces Trading Co. (1111 Locust Street, 215-5741099, garcestradingcompany.com), which, as previously noted, the chef is, for some reason, allowed to operate independently. For those less interested in décor, Wine & Spirits state stores (finewineandgoodspirits.com) might do the trick.

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BAsi Cs

speak easy

say what you will a guide to the quirks of the local lexicon. words by Dan McQuade Ack·a·me [pronunciation: ACK-a-me], noun. 1. A supermarket, usually but not always the ACME chain of supermarkets, owned by Albertson’s: I want to pick up some Arctic Splash at Ack-a-me. down·a·shur [pronunciation: down-a-SURE], noun.

1. Being located in a coastal resort town, usually on a barrier island in South Jersey but occasionally referring to Delaware or North Jersey; compression of “down the shore”: I have a house downashur for the week. drawlin [pronunciation: DRAWL-in], adjective. 1. Acting weird or uncharacteristic of usual behavior; tripping: Miss Dee, you drawlin today!

Fluff·yia [pronunciation: FLUFF-ya], noun. 1. The City of Philadelphia: I’m on the streets of Fluffyia.

Gir·ahd [pronunciation: jeer-AHD]. 1. One of the few instances where many Philadelphians drop an “R” in the pronunciation of a word (“Charlie’s Pizza” and “bastard” are other somewhat common instances): Take the El to the Girahd stop. hoa·gie [pronunciation: HOH-gee], noun.

1. A sandwich on a long, split Italian roll filled with meats, cheeses, vegetables and seasonings. Outside the region, known as a submarine sandwich, grinder, hero, et cetera: I’m hungry, so let’s get a hoagie at Paesano’s. jawn [pronunciation: JAHN], noun. 1. An item, event, place or gathering. Can literally mean anything you want, usually preceded by “that” and sometimes taking a modifier for clarity: Hand me that jawn. What time are we going to that jawn? la·ger [pronunciation: LAH-ger], noun. 1. Exclusively a Yuengling Lager, to everyone everywhere in Philadelphia no matter how much beer nerds try to change it: Hey, barkeep, give me two lagers. mare [pronunciation: MARE], noun. 1. The mayor of Philadelphia (or any city), pronounced not may-or but like a horse: Mare Nutter walked down Market Street past the OTB. old·head [pronunciation: OLD-hed], noun. 1. An old person, especially one out of touch: That oldhead doesn’t even have a cell phone! pave·ment [pronunciation: PAY-mint] noun. 1. The sidewalk: Stay out of the street and on the pavement when you play, Bobby.

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ph - [pronunciation: F-], prefix. 1. Used to replace an “F” in written language by Philadelphians failing to be clever: Yo, that Phillies game was phucking phantastic! sal·ty [pronunciation: SAHL-tee], adjective.

1. A feeling of embarrassment when shown to be incorrect in a dispute with another person: He felt salty when Anna asked his friend out instead of him. Interjection. 1. The word shouted in triumph when the person opposite in a dispute feels salty: “Salty,” he shouted as he wiped salt from a Philadelphia pretzel onto his defeated rival. tap MAC [pronunciation: TAP MAK], verb. 1. The act of taking money out of an automated teller machine; used exclusively by people over 28 years old or so: Let me tap MAC before we go to the bar, Tom. That’s what’s up! [pronunciation: thats whats up], interjection. 1. An exclamation used to express delight or enthusiasm after something awesome happens: The Phillies won the World Series! That’s what’s up!

Wall Women [pronunciation: wahl WEHmen], proper noun. 1. In the words of Jim Quinn, “America’s greatest male poet of the 19th century, Walt Whitman”; usually used when referring to the bridge: Take the Wall Women bridge to Wall Women’s grave in Camden. wood·er [pronunciation: WOULD-er], noun. 1. A liquid made of two hydrogen atoms, one helium atom and, according to a Water Department study, 56 different pharmaceutical drugs when it comes from the tap: Why does everyone else in the country pronounce wooder incorrectly? yo [pronunciation: YOH], interjection. 1. An informal greeting: Yo, Adrian, let’s not quote that movie. 2. An expression of disgust or disapproval: Yo, you just hit my car! 3. Present, here: Sylvester Stallone, are you here? Yo, I’m in the back. young bol [pronunciation: YUNG BUL], noun. 1. A young man, or someone younger than the speaker, at least; variably spelled “bul” or “bull”: You’re my young bol. youse [pronunciation: USE], pl. pronoun.

1. The pronoun of the second-person plural; similar to y’all (in the South) or yinz (in Pittsburgh): When are youse going to the game?

lift the lamppost right out of the pavement, move on. And, seriously, secure both tires.

two wheels good

the unspoken dos and don’ts of biking in philly. words by Patrick Rapa Like swimming and French kissing, you can’t really be taught how to bike the streets of Philadelphia. You just gotta nut up and go for it. That said, you might benefit from the collected wisdom of an elder bikesman like myself, somebody who’s loved and lost (teeth) on the half-mean streets of this city.

Relax: More designated lanes and paths pop up every day, and you only have to share most of them with other bikers, joggers, unchecked cabbies, entitled cheapskate churchgoers, kneeling buses and drivers who just pulled over to run a quick errand for like 10-15 minutes, brb.

Lock up: There are plenty of racks, signs and headless parking meters to which you can (double) U-lock your bike. Just give it a tug first. If you can

philadelphia cycle city

Get smart: Don’t hang anything from your handlebars unless it’s super secure. I had a bag swing into my front spokes at Eighth and Market and I flipped forward, hard, breaking an arm and a tooth. Somebody came running out of Burger King with napkins for my bleeding face. They smelled delicious.

B a sic s

Lighten up: Don’t get a mountain bike or a hybrid, which is really just a less ridiculouslooking mountain bike. You want a road bike, something lightweight and maneuverable.

You’ll thank me when you’re scaling Manayunk or lugging it up three flights of stairs.

You might also be interested in a low-maintenance fixed-gear biked. See if you can be the first person with a fixie who shuts up about it.

Beware of ghosts: Philly’s streets are haunted by ancient terrors. Trolley tracks should be crossed only at rightish angles and avoided in slippery conditions. Cobblestones can warp your wheels. Horse-drawn carriages like to drop poop speed bumps throughout Old City.

Protect yourself: Wear a helmet. Tuck in your pant cuffs. Avoid storm drains, high curbs, metal slabs and low potholes — they’re murder on your spokes and genitals.

Pay attention: Until you’ve learned how to interpret the vehicular body language of SEPTA buses, delivery trucks and weekend warrior car sharers, consider stopping at stop signs and red lights. Crazy, right? Also, avoid riding against traffic or between things that might suddenly move and squish you. And don’t bike with your headphones on. You make me nervous when you do that.

Don’t trust pedestrians: They will walk right out in front of you and then act like you’re the asshole for almost killing them.

Don’t trust cars: They fail to signal, they swing open doors in your path, they honk, they think bikes don’t belong on the road.

Drivers are the worst.

Don’t trust other bicyclists: We are also the worst sometimes.

N N N Flip to the next page to see a detailed map of Philly’s

bike lanes. For information on biking in Philadelphia, visit bicyclecoalition.org. c i t y pa p e r . n e t

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BA SIcS

party time

taking it to the streets

forget independence — philly’s festivals make a declaration of fun. words by Holly Otterbein and Emily Guendelsberger Mummers Parade One of the weirdest things about Philadelphia is the way it celebrates New Year’s Day. Hundreds of men — many of them blue-collar workers from South Philly and Fishtown — dress up in feathered, beaded and bedazzled costumes that would make Cher blush. They then prance up Broad Street, sing, show off their floats and perform elaborate skits, and enforcement of opencontainer laws is pretty lax for spectators and participants alike. After the parade, the party relocates down to Pennsport — on “Two Street,” or Second Street by any other name, where many of the Mummers brigades have their clubhouses — where the revelry goes long into the night. Jan. 1, phillymummers.com.

PIFA There isn’t a lot of historical information to go on about the Philadelphia International Festival of the Arts — its first and only year so far, funded by a $10 million grant, was in 2011. PIFA was a huge, monthlong mashup of small- and large-scale arts events: For the former, fistfuls of money were handed out to local groups that could hook a show to the theme of Paris in the 1910s, ranging in faithfulness from a production of Stravinsky’s Pulcinella by the Pennsylvania 18

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Ballet to a DIY, neon-spandex Rite of Spring that sampled only the vague plot and famous opening bassoon solo from its source material.

The large-scale events around the Kimmel Center included aerialists, a free concert by Sharon Jones and the Dap-Kings and a Ferris wheel on Broad Street. The organizers took 2012 off, presumably to recuperate, but this year they’re back with the theme “If you had a time machine … ” March 28-April 27, pifa.org.

Kensington Kinetic Sculpture Derby Don’t confuse the Sculpture Derby with a race:Awards aren’t given out to the fastest bike-powered floats to return from a circuit of the neighborhood, but for zazz, heart and survival of the mud pit at the end of the course. Entries have ranged in complexity and mudworthiness from

middle-aged bikers with balloons tied to their seats to troops of kids dressed as flying blue monkeys to a space shuttle as big as a short bus. The derby coincides with the Trenton Avenue Arts Festival, so there’s tons of things to eat and look at while waiting for the first float to round the bend. Mid-May, kinetickensington.com.

Art Star Craft Bazaar In 2003, Erin Waxman and Megan Brewster, owners of the Art Star Gallery & Boutique, started a small fair as a way for local artists and crafters to sell their wares; approaching a decade later, it’s one of the country’s biggest and most beloved crafting events (take that, Brooklyn). The Art Star Craft Bazaar now is a biannual, two-day affair — indoors in winter, outdoors at Penn’s Landing in the spring — with hundreds of crafty vendors from all over, live music and food. Late spring and mid-December, artstarcraftbazaar.com.

Roots Picnic The only predictable thing about this two-day outdoor concert, started in 2008, is the unpredictability of the lineup. The acts reflect curator and de facto Philly mascot ?uestlove’s genre-spanning love of music: Acts at past Picnics range from Wiz Khalifa to the Black Keys to Esperanza Spalding to Deerhoof to a partial Wu-Tang reunion. Individual acts draw a huge, diverse crowd that then gets to appreciate and/or be baffled by new genres of music.

But everyone goes wild for the Roots Crew. Festival Pier can get heatstroke-y; take advantage of the air-conditioned DJ tent and drink lots of water. Early June, okayplayer.com/rootspicnic.

Philly Beer Week It may sound like an ill-conceived frat game, but Philly Beer Week is a race to the hangover only if you want it to be. The festival crams hundreds of beer tastings, lectures and meet-the-brewer events into 10 serious days. It can be a challenge to get through them, so here’s some advice: Don’t drink every heady brew you meet, take a day off and drink lots of water. Early June, phillybeerweek.org.

Live Arts Festival & Philly Fringe Think of the Live Arts Festival as your exceedingly picky friend and Philly Fringe as the co-worker who’ll date anyone.

The metaphor isn’t intended to disrespect the concurrent, 16-day performing

arts bonanzas — it just means that Live Arts presents a dozen-ish curated, take-home-toMom shows from around the world, while Philly Fringe comprises nearly 200 shows put on by anyone who wants to do one and can lock in a venue. The latter is still jammed with talent, and it’s all the more satisfying when you find a diamond. Sept. 7-22, livearts-fringe.org.

Naked Bike Ride The Naked Bike Ride (just what it sounds like) isn’t just silliness and titillation; it also shreds body-image expectations and makes a very visual point about how vulnerable bikers are. Late summer or early fall, phillynakedbikeride.org.

Bloktoberfest You’d think that by mid-fall, Philly would be sick of block parties. Turns out that food, beer, neighbors and music are just too good to confine to summer. This block party on steroids goes down in the GradHo neighborhood, with autumnal craft brews, food trucks and plenty of bands. The weather is usually perfect, so enjoy it. October 13, bloktoberfestphilly.com.

Philadelphia Film Festival The Philadelphia Film Festival was one of the first places anyone saw The Sixth Sense. And Food, Inc. And a ton of great movies that never achieved mainstream success. Over the festival’s two weeks, check out the unappreciated treasures as well as the next big thing. October 18-28, filmadelphia.org. c i t y pa p e r . n e t

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BAsi Cs

grub hubs

oh, the places you’ll go (to eat)! a tour of some of the best meal tickets in town.

words by Felicia D’Ambrosio and Caroline Russock In a perfect world, people would be able to eat out as often as they pleased. A neatly set table, smiling service, music to set the mood — dining out is a little luxury few want to resist. Over the last 20 years, Philly has been swept along on a wave of restaurant innovation, encompassing everything from elegant fine-dining palaces to humble holes-in-the-wall, creating thousands of wellcalibrated meals every day.

Brunch could be considered the axis upon which the whole planet of dining out turns. It’s the only meal where any class of food or beverage is fair game — the more, the better. Since cooks and servers hate it, worthy operations that don’t phone it in distinguish themselves. On the northern side of town, housemade scrapple, bacon, flatbreads and glorious pancakes mark Café Estelle (444 N. Fourth St., 215- 925-5080, cafeestelle.com) as a daytime staple. Speaking of scrapple, Amish breakfasts aren’t complete without it at the Dutch Eating Place (Reading Terminal Market, 12th and Arch streets, readingterminalmarket.com), where a lack of buttons doesn’t stop the bearded ringmaster from keeping the counter seated and the fresh-squeezed juice flowing. And at Amís (412 S. 13th St., 215-732-2647, amisphilly.com) chef Brad Spence throws down Jersey Cannonballs and 22

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plates of yolky raviolo all’uovo along with blood-orange mimosas.

If you’re looking for something higher-end, nothing short of true love will do for a visit to Lacroix (210 W. Rittenhouse Square, 215790-2533, lacroixrestaurant.com), a day-tonight destination hosting a legendarily lavish, $100-a-head Sunday brunch culminating in a chocolate fountain. Decadent evenings equally lush in décor (vegetable chic) and hyperlocal ingredients start at Talula’s Garden (210 W. Washington Square, 215-592-7787, talulasgarden.com) from farm-to-table queen Aimee Olexy and king-daddy restaurateur Stephen Starr, master of the grub cartel that spawned Philadelphia’s other starry son, Jose Garces. Speaking of the Iron Chef, his intimate, Basque-inspired Tinto (114 S. 20th St., 215-665-9150, tintorestaurant.com) is the best of a portfolio of exciting restaurants.

Adventuresome palates are rewarded by the exotic flavor vocabulary of chef Mike Solomonov, who turns pristine ingredients into precise, modern Israeli plates at Zahav (237 Saint James Place, 215-625-8800, zahavrestaurant.com).

On the cutting edge of haute meat- and dairy-free dining, Vedge (1221 Locust St., 215-320-7500, vedgerestaurant.com) is putting out breathtakingly beautiful vegan fare.

Corkage? What’s that? Philadelphia boasts an entire category of fine-ish dining unknown in other cities: the BYOB (see our guide to Pennsylvania’s weird liquor laws, p.12), which welcome guests to tote their own Kendall-Jackson, Chateau Chichi, beer or even hard liquor to spike house-provided mixers.

There are too many great BYOs to list here, but of the dozens, the satisfyingly pork-centric Cochon (801 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-923-7675, cochonbyob.com) and the gutsy Italian of Peter McAndrew’s Modo Mio (161 W. Girard Ave., 215203-8707) stand out.

Indian, Thai, Korean and Szechuan cuisines have seen an explosion of popularity in recent years. Creamy makhani chicken and fiery lamb vindaloo star at Ekta (250 E. Girard Ave., 215-426-2277, ektaindianrestaurant.com), a BYO that also delivers all over the city. Good Thai is harder to find, but Circles (1514 Tasker St., 267-687-1778 and 812 N. Second St., 267-6871309 circlesnewbold.com), home of luscious crab fried rice and pad see ew, brings some much-needed Thai to town. Shatteringly crisp Korean fried chicken wings are worth the trip to Olney and Café Soho (468 W. Cheltenham Ave., 215-224-6800) — and if you’re willing to travel all over the city for authenticity, check out our ethnic food map on p. 24 for an idea of what you can find where. Han Chiang’s face-melting fare at Han Dynasty (108 Chestnut St., 215- 922-1888, handynasty.net) is right in Old City, though — the sharp-tongued Chiang’s dan dan noodles, dumplings in chili oil and crispy pork intestines have an obsessive, addicted following.

Hate the word gastropub if you must, but there’s no denying NoLibs stalwart Standard Tap (901 N. Second St., 215- 238-0630, standardtap.com) started it all. In fine weather, their upstairs deck remains the prime spot to devour seasonal, ever-changing classics paired with all-local draft beer. Stack

creating thousands of wellcalibrated meals every day. their burger up against the Royal Tavern’s (937 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-389-6694, royaltavern.com) brioche-wrapped beauty, but watch out for that long hot, ’cause she’s a sparker. Capturing the same warm vibe is relative newcomer Kennett (848 S. Second St., 267-687-1426, kennettrestaurant.com), which adds a fierce cocktail selection to the expected superlative draft list and chef Brian Ricci’s adept, veg-centric dishes. Just around the corner is Catahoula (775 S. Front St., 215- 271-9300, catahoularestaurant.com), home of the most authentic oyster po’boys, gumbo and hushpuppies Philly has seen in years, as well as a steal-of-a-deal Saturday kegs ’n’ eggs special: $9 for an entrée, side and draft brew. Which brings us back to where we began — brunch.

N N N Check out City Paper’s food blog, Meal Ticket, at citypaper.

net/mealticket and follow it on Twitter @mealticket. c i t y pa p e r . n e t

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around the world words by Emily Guendelsberger // illustration by Evan M. Lopez The availability of really good food from other cultures depends mostly on a city’s immigration demographics — for example, it’s tough to find good, cheap Thai in Philly, but good, cheap Ethiopian is available in every third bar in West Philly. You just need to know where to look. It takes

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a while to suss out where to get kimchi, diamond sweets, mofongo or pierogies like grandma used to make — a lot of the time, the really authentic food is clustered in a small area with a large immigrant population, and these clusters can be a long subway trip or even drive from Center City.

You’ll have to find specific restaurants on your own, but this map is a great starting point for where to start looking.

words by Patrick Rapa Trying to get a handle on this music scene is like trying to put the cat in the carrier. “Hell, no,” says the cat. “I’m not falling for that.” Dangerous. The scenes and sounds of Philly are intermingling when they’re not isolating, running you ragged when they’re not hibernating. Comebacks and farewell shows occur weekly. The guy you thought was the Next Great Philly MC might never drop a second mixtape.

By the time you read this, everything could all be laughably out of date, but I’m willing to risk the bites and scratches. C’mon, cat. Time to take a ride.

When it comes to hip-hop, soul and R&B in this town, all roads lead to The Roots. Currently the wingmen on Late Night with Jimmy Fallon, ?uestlove and co. pioneered and perfected the live-band hip-hop thing right here in

c i t y pa p e r . n e t

sound advice

City Paper’s music editor takes us on a wicked ride through the Philly music scene.

B a sic s

sounds like us

Philly, and their rising tide has lifted a lot of boats: Jill Scott, Jaguar Wright, Musiq Soulchild, John Legend, Ursula Rucker — it’s a long list. You don’t see The Roots around here too often these days, but there’s a whole new generation playing in their sandbox, from Meek Mill to Jazmine Sullivan, Spankrock to Chiddy Bang, not to mention scene lifers like Freeway, Nikki Jean, Jedi Mind Tricks, the oft-incarcerated Beanie Sigel and Schoolly D, godfather of gangsta rap. Oh, and Eve’s gonna make a comeback soon, apparently.

Right now, the hottest MC on my playlist is the swaggering, slick-talking Ethel Cee. There’s a game of thrones going on in the Philly rock world. Who will be the king?

Perhaps it’s Kurt Vile, who’s gotten some love for his smoky vocals and fuzzy guitars.

You could also make a case for Dr. Dog; their jammy early days have given way to an era of blissful, strummy pop. Don’t rule out dark cabaret monsters Man Man or the wide-open, free-fallin’ War on Drugs, either.

By the way, The Dead Milkmen, Spinto Band, Clap Your Hands Say Yeah, Free Energy, Bigger Lovers, Beretta 76 and The Walkmen also call this city home. And amazing new acts are always bubbling to the surface around here.

At this very moment, the ambitious metalfolk of Meddlesome Meddlesome Meddlesome Bells and the sweaty, pretty rock ’n’ roll of Hop Along are on constant rotation for me.

Folk? For something lovely and deep, try the breathtaking Meg Baird. If you prefer a little psychedelic mischief in the mix, watch her play with the otherworldly Espers. After that, move on to Hezekiah Jones, Lion Versus and The Spinning Leaves; then buy your Folk Fest tickets.

Not everybody knows this, but this city is actually a bustling hive of classical music, and I’m not just talking about our cash-strapped/ internationally beloved Philadelphia Orchestra. The Chamber Music Society, Piffaro, Dolce Suono, 1807 & Friends, Opera Company of Philadelphia — we’re basically heaven to the cummerbund-and-baton set. And to catch the talent before it’s ruined by drugs and groupies, check out a recital at the Curtis Institute of Music or the Academy of Vocal Arts.

I’m not gonna even pretend to be a jazz expert, but I think I just put together the ultimate 2012 all-Philly fantasy team: pianists Orrin Evans and Uri Caine, trumpet player Terell Stafford, bassist Christian McBride, saxophonists Jaleel Shaw and Bobby Zankel and singers Venissa Santi and Melody Gardot.

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Fine. Sound: Great in the seats, can feel a bit distant up on the lawn. Sightlines: Same as the sound. Notes: A wide indoor/outdoor amphitheater that’s earthy and super chill.

stay tuned

MilkBoy Philly 1100 Chestnut St., 215-925MILK, milkboyphilly.com. Telltale bookings: Craig Finn, Blood Feathers, Carsie Blanton Beer: Yep. Sound: Decent. Sightlines: Get tall. Notes: Leave the messenger bag at home; this place can get tight and sweaty.

stage whispers a quick survey of some of philly’s finer music venues. words by Patrick Rapa Electric Factory 421 N. Seventh St., 215-627-1332, electricfactory.info. Telltale bookings: The Hives, Scissor Sisters, Hot Chip Beer: There’s a big ol’ balcony area for drinking. Sound: Not bad for a giant rock ’n’ roll hangar. Sightlines: Very good. Notes: This is Philly’s general-admission warehouse venue.

First Unitarian Church 2125 Chestnut St., 877-435-9849, r5productions.com.

Telltale bookings: Fucked Up, Plow United, Purity Ring Beer: Nope. Sound: Good. Sightlines: Be tall (or be pushy). Notes: Bookings are down to a trickle

at the city’s loveably dirty, sweaty, all-ages basement venue. Smaller and quieter stuff gets booked upstairs in the Sanctuary and Chapel. The crowd skews young.

Johnny Brenda’s 1201 N. Frankford Ave., 215-739-9684, johnnybrendas.com.

Telltale bookings: Kurt Vile, Cults, Shonen Knife Beer: Good selection, several bars. Sound: Very good. Sightlines: Very good. Notes: JB’s is the go-to 21-

North Star 2639 Poplar St., 215-7870488, northstarbar.com. Telltale bookings: Wintersleep, Kuf Knotz, Dick Dale Beer: Always good. Sound: Good. Sightlines: Stake out a spot early, shorties. Notes: The last of the ’90s indie-rock clubs, it does the basics well: good beer, good music and a workingclass décor that’s half-spit, half-polish.

TLA 334 South St., 215-922-1011, livenation.com. Telltale bookings: The Mountain Goats, Childish Gambino, mewithoutyou Beer: In plastic cups. Sound: Very good.

Sightlines: Very good. Notes: A fine all-ages general admission venue with a wide stage and calf-strengthening slanted floors.

Tower Theatre 69th and Ludlow streets, Upper Darby, 610-352-2887, tower-theatre.com.

Telltale bookings: Regina Spektor, Fiona Apple, Meat Loaf Beer: Sure, get a pretzel braid, too. Sound: Great. Sightlines: Excellent.

Notes: An airy, seated auditorium, this may be the most comfy big-concert experience in the area.

Trocadero 1003 Arch St., 215-922-6888, thetroc.com. Telltale bookings: Bonnie “Prince” Billy, Curren$y, Guided By Voices Beer: In plastic cups. Sound: Very good. Sightlines: Mostly good. Notes: The Troc’s a lovely old burlesque theater retrofitted for bigger allages general admission rock/punk/hip-hop shows. They pat you down at the door. Movie Mondays are a hit.

plus indie-pop bar. You can dance if you want to.

Kung Fu Necktie 1250 N. Front St., 877-435-9849, kungfunecktie.com.

Telltale bookings: Reigning Sound, Illvibe Collective, Spinto Band Beer: Good. Sound: Good. Sightlines: You’ll be fine. Notes: Tiny, friendly indie-

rock bar on the border of NoLibs and Kensington.

Mann Center 5201 Parkside Ave., 215-893-1999, manncenter.org. Telltale bookings: Jill Scott, Scorpions, Philadelphia Orchestra, Norah Jones Beer: 26

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Union Transfer 1026 Spring Garden St., 215-232-2100, utphilly.com. Telltale bookings: Built to Spill, Best Coast, Aesop Rock Beer: Yep. There are bars all over this place.

Sound: Amazing. Sightlines: Excellent.

Notes: A 1,000-capacity concert hall with a lot of character and plenty of antechambers to escape the music. Great place to catch a show.

queer bait

BA Si C S

LGBTQ-honoring festivities don’t stop there.

Every spring, the weeklong Equality Forum (equalityforum.com) hosts a responsible itinerary of discussions, film screenings and get-togethers geared toward propelling the national gay rights movement. When fall rolls around, OutFest (phillypride.org) celebrates National Coming Out Day with a massive street party in the Gayborhood. And Queers of the Avenue (QOTA) is a popular monthly happy hour along one of Philly’s newest gay corridors, East Passyunk Avenue, which in the warmer months spills out into the streets — block-party style.

out on the town

you’re here. you’re queer. let’s do this. words by Josh Middleton Don’t fret, young gay transient! Philadelphia isn’t entirely made up of macho sports fans and figure-busting cheesesteaks. Here thrives an LGBTQ community that’s just as embraced by city dwellers as the lost-its-ding-dong Liberty Bell. I mean, come on, we have a whole neighborhood named after us.

Nightlife The Gayborhood is your safest bet for a well-rounded gay night on the town. If you like your drinks strong and your men well-aged, start at Uncles (1220 Locust St., 215-546-6660, unclesupstairsinn.com) for cocktails that are stiff and cheap. For the next stop, it’s all about what (or who) you’re looking for. Get your dance on with guy-next-door types at the recently remodeled hood mainstay Woody’s (202 S. 13th St., 215-545-1893, woodysbar.com), sing a ditty with artsier queens in the piano lounge at Tavern on Camac (243 S. Camac St., 215-545-0900, tavernoncamac.com), or brush scruffy elbows with leather-bound daddy bears in the dungeonesque, sweaty-ball-scented Bike Stop (206 S. Quince St., 215-627-1662, thebikestop.com). If you think dudes are icky, Sisters (1320 Chancellor St., 215-735-0735, sistersnightclub. com) overflows with enough lesbians to make your head spin.

Festivals Sure, we have a summertime Pride Parade and Festival (phillypride.org) with marches and parties out the ying-yang, but our 28

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Shopping A multitude of gay-owned businesses keep Philly’s commerce community booming. Lesbian couple Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran run six businesses in Midtown Village, including upscale noshery Grocery (101 S. 13th St., 215-922-5252, grocery13.com); modern home goods shop Open House (107 S. 13th St., 215-922-1415, openhouseliving. com); and Verde (108 S. 13th St., 215-5468700, verdephiladelphia.com), an earthy purveyor of accessories and artisanal chocolates.

Keep your closet fresh with up-to-date threads from South Philly’s gay-owned men’s fashion boutique Metro Men’s Clothing (1615 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-324-5172, metromensclothing.com). And your queer lit collection will look a lot sexier with a few purchases from Ed Hermance’s Giovanni’s Room (345 S. 12th St., 215-923-2960, giovannisroom.com).

His cozy, two-level book nook is the oldest LGBTQ bookstore in the country.

Community Outreach Whether you’re volunteering or utilizing their services, getting involved with any of Philly’s gay-oriented nonprofits is your key to becoming a vital member of the local queer scene. The William Way Community Center (1315 Spruce St., 215-732-2220, waygay.org) provides educational resources meant to bridge societal gaps between the different groups that comprise the LGBTQ spectrum. Spring chickens between the ages of 18 and 23 can take advantage of a variety of gay-youth-empowering activities offered at the Attic Youth Center (255 S. 16th St., 215-545-4331, atticyouthcenter.org). And the Mazzoni Center (21 S. 12th St., 215-5630652, mazzonicenter.org) is an abundant medical resource agency — providing everything from free HIV testing to health care for those without coverage. Tip: Remember these places when you’re feeling charitable.

fielder’s choice

philly’s full of good sports and boisterous fans. words by Patrick Rapa Flyers Sport: hockey Colors: orange, black, white Venue: Wells Fargo Center Unofficial Motto: Everybody Hurts Defining Fan Moment: The time that drunk dude fell in the penalty box and fought Tie Domi. Notes: The Flyers have a reputation for tough play, annual playoff appearances and season-ending disappointment. The franchise won its two (and only) Stanley Cups in ’74 and ’75, back when Bobby Clarke, Bernie Parent and the Broad Street Bullies were punching the entire NHL (and the Russian Red Army) in the face. Since then, the Flyers have come close a few times and almost come close a lot. That said, this could be their year. I say that every year.

Phillies Sport: baseball Colors: red, white, a little blue Venue: Citizen’s Bank Ballpark Unofficial Motto: World Fucking Champions Defining Fan Moment: Is it the tazing at centerfield or that dude who barfed on a kid on purpose? Notes: The bad news is that the 128-year-old Phillies are, arguably, the losingest pro franchise ever, having reached 10,000 losses in 2007.

home teams

Eagles Sport: football Colors: green, silver, white Venue: Lincoln Financial Field Unofficial Motto: E-A-G-Etc. Defining Fan Moment: Throwing snowballs at Santa in 1968. A later investigation revealed that it was just a guy dressed as Santa but we’ve never lived it down. Notes: The Eagles have never won the Super Bowl, but their fans are insufferably cocky anyway, always chanting, strategizing and basically strutting around like temporarily embarrassed champions.

That said, the team is usually pretty fun to watch and the tailgating scene is the best in the country.

B A SIC S

The good news: They won their second World Series in 2008 (the other one coming in 1980). The other bad news: Their core of awesome players is aging fast.

Sixers Sport: basketball Colors: red, white, blue Venue: Wells Fargo Center Unofficial Motto: We’re getting there. Defining Fan Moment: It’s been a while since this team has had fans or moments. Notes: Long gone are the days of Dr. J, Charles Barkley and Allen Iverson. These days the once-proud 76ers have stars you never heard of, like the tall dude, the old guy and the kid with the weird voice. Scrappy overachievers. Plenty of good seats still available.

Union Sport: soccer Colors: blue, gold Venue: PPL Park (in Chester) Motto: I was open when I told you to kick it to me but now I’m not. Defining Fan Moment: The Union’s fan club, The Sons of Ben, predates the team by three years and sets a high standard for enthusiasm and creative/crude chanting.

Notes: The surprise hit of the Philly sports world: Games are well attended and people are buying the jerseys (even though they advertise Bimbo baking company right on the front).

See Also: Wings: Home games for our long-standing indoor lacrosse team have a strange, family-friendly/Roman Colosseum vibe. • Roller Girls/Penn Jersey Roller Derby: Yes, Philly has two indie all-girl roller derby leagues. • Soul: Our on-again/off-again indoor football team. • Liberty Belles: This women’s tackle football team plays in Ambler.

Independence: A women’s pro-soccer team based in Chester. • Kixx: Our indoor men’s soccer team still exists. • Philadelphia Freedoms: Tennis, apparently. c i t y pa p e r . n e t

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some of their best projects have been visible all over — parking spaces around town, the scrolling marquee of the PECO building — or intangible, like their Virtual Public Art Project. Free, 3600 Market St.,215-966-6188, kleinartgallery.org.

ICA Penn’s Institute of Contemporary Art combines the free price of a gallery with the large scale of a great contemporary art museum. Past exhibitions include Andy Warhol, R. Crumb and Sheila Hicks retrospectives, to drop a few names. Free, 118 S. 36th Street, 215-898-7108, icaphila.org.

gallery go-to

Little Berlin This Kensington collective and gallery space is run and curated by its member artists, with a new show up every month.

They also tend to have a lot of fun events and music shows, particularly since their move to a larger space with a lovely courtyard. Free, 2430 Coral St., littleberlin.org.

the exhibitionists art in philly.

words by Emily Guendelsberger Philly’s art scene is diverse geographically and in scale, but each month galleries from the wine and cheese of Old City to the next generation up in Kensington come together in the show of free-booze-fueled unity that is First Friday — a citywide art party celebrating the simultaneous openings of new exhibitions. To get you started on art in Philly, here’s a few reference points.

The Barnes Foundation The latest Parkway museum opened in spring 2012, following years of bitter legal battle over whether relocating the art collection of Albert C. Barnes would be a violation of his will’s stipulation that the paintings be kept in “exactly the places that they are.” But the original location of one of the best Impressionist collections in the world was a residential suburb that restricted visitors to 500 per week. Barnes’ phrase was controversially interpreted to mean “…in relation to one another.” The new building, then, replicates the scale and proportion of the old galleries as well as Barnes’ idiosyncratic arrangements. $18, 2025 Ben Franklin Pkwy., 215-2787000, barnesfoundation.org.

Esther Klein Gallery This University City space is the home base of Breadboard, an organization that focuses on the nexus of art and science, but 30

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Philadelphia Museum of Art When someone refers to “the art museum,” this is the one they’re talking about. The PMA is one of the largest museums in the country; even so, it’s packed every first Sunday of the month on pay-what-you-wish day. Go looking for Marcel Duchamp’s Étant donnés, a creepy tableaux visible only through an unassuming peephole. $12-$16, 2600 Ben Franklin Pkwy., 215-763-8100, philamuseum.org.

Space 1026 Artist-run collective Space 1026 is one of the oldest heads of Philly’s DIY art scene (since 1997). Its membership is diverse, but the tastes of its artist/curators — for black-and-white graphics, grotesque monsters, screenprinting, neon colors, pop culture, gallery-transforming installations and a sense of humor — have been a big factor in how the art world perceives Philly. Free, 1026 Arch St., 215-574-7630, space1026.com.

Vox Populi Vox is an even older head than Space 1026, though it’s never been as solidly associated with one place. The 30-person collective has bounced around several homes across the city before settling into a building in a tumbleweed-y area just north of Chinatown whose four floors now house other artist-run studios and galleries like Grizzly Grizzly, Tiger Strikes Asteroid, Marginal Utility, Napoleon and Vox’s new performance space, Aux. Free, 319 N. 11th St., 215-238-1236, voxpopuligallery.org.

it’s where we live

the hoods

Location Boathouse Row // photo by Neal Santos

gayborhood

“I love Sampan’s Graffiti Bar, because where else in Philly do you get to walk down a long, narrow brick alley and find, at its end, an awesome open-air patio with delicious food, beer and the Phillies game on the flatscreen?”

photos by Neal Santos

— Allison, 25, uwishunu.com editor

gayborhood

somewhere under the rainbow.

BORDERED BY WASHINGTON SQUARE and the Avenue of the Arts (aka Broad Street), the Gayborhood is the beating rainbow heart of Philly’s gay scene. Also known as Midtown Village, the neighborhood has undergone a recent revival, in part thanks to power couple Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran and their spate of fun restaurants and shops. Though safer than ever, Disneyland this ain’t — sex shops, porn theaters and roving escorts all still make the scene — but as a shopping, dining and drinking destination, the Gayborhood always delivers the goods.

while you’re here …

• Hit up El Vez for the blood-orange margaritas and a trip to the black-and-white film photobooth • Sample seasonal flavors at Capogiro Gelato; try anything paired with the black-asmidnight cioccolato scuro • The LGBT-focused Mazzoni Center is a health-care and wellness spot with a sliding scale for the uninsured • Burn up the dancefloor at Woody’s or Sisters, where the drinks come extra-strong 34

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you should know …

For more on what’s happening in the Gayborhood, seek out the Midtown Village Association (midtownvillage.org). The hood is repped by First District City Councilman Mark Squilla (215-686-3458)

explore …

BARS + CLUBS BIKE STOP

206 S. Quince St., 215-627-1662, thebikestop.com

Self-billed as the “home of the leather gay and lesbian community” for almost three decades.

DIRTY FRANK’S

347 S. 13th St., 215-732-5010

The special is a pony beer and a kamikaze shot.

FERGIE’S PUB

1214 Sansom St., 215-928-8118, fergies.com

ICANDY

254 S. 12th St., 267-324-3500, clubicandy.com

reStaUrantS + MarKetS

SiSterS

13th Street Pizza

Karaoke, theme parties and movie screenings keep this LGBTQ (but primarily L) bar busy.

Aka “gay pizza,” this is where the hordes stumbling out of the clubs get to-go munchies after last call.

1320 Chancellor St., 215-735-0735, sistersnightclub.com

200 S. 12th St., 215-964-9675, tabuphilly.com

tavern on CamaC

209 S. 13th St., 215-546-4453, 13thstreetpizza.com

amíS

412 S. 13th St., 215-732-AMIS, amisphilly.com

barbuzzo

243 S. Camac St., 215-545-0900, tavernoncamac.com

110 S. 13th St., 215-546-9300, barbuzzo.com

The main floor is home to a popular piano bar.

119 South 13th St., 215-351-0900, capogirogelato.com

unCleS

1220 Locust St., 215-546-6660, unclesupstairsinn.com

voyeur

CaPogiro gelato

el vez

121 S. 13th St., 215-928-9800, elvezrestaurant.com

1221 St James St., 215-735-5772, voyeurnightclub.com

garCeS trading Co.

Gays flock to this LGBTQ-friendly afterhours club that hosts weekly events, drink specials and private parties.

green eggS Café

Woody’S

202 S. 13th St., 215-545-1893, woodysbar.com

gayborhood

tabu

the hoods

A newer, multi-level gay club with an extensive bar, drag shows, dancing and a roof deck.

1111 Locust St., 215-574-1099, garcestradingcompany.com

jamonerarestaurant.com

laSt droP

1300 Pine St., 215-893-9262, thelastdropcoffeehouse.com

This coffeeshop is a historical hangout for future big names in the Philly music scene.

212 S. 13th St., 267-861-0314, greeneggscafe.com

lolita

Jamonera

BYO tequila for a pitcher of margaritas that is not to be missed.

105 S. 13th St., 215-922-6061,

106 S. 13th St., 215-546-7100, lolitabyob.com

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MERCATO

sortment of beers.

MINAR PALACE

ARTS + CULTURE

THE HOODS

1216 Spruce St., 215-985-2962, mercatobyob.com 1304 Walnut St., 215-546-9443, minarphilly.com

MIXTO

gayborhood

1141 Pine St., 215-592-0363, mixtorestaurante.com

GERSHMAN Y

401 S. Broad St., 215-545-4400, gershmany.org

GIOVANNI’S ROOM

OPA

1311 Sansom St., 215-545-0170, opaphiladelphia.com

345 South 12th St., 215-923-2960, giovannisroom.com

Modern Greek cuisine.

An LGBTQ bookstore with regular events.

SAMPAN

WILLIAM WAY COMMUNITY CENTER

124 S. 13th St., 215-732-3501, sampanphilly.com

1315 Spruce St., 215-732-2220, waygay.org

Try the dim sum brunch.

Provides counseling and all-ages programming for the LGBTQ community.

VALANNI

1229 Spruce St., 215-790-9494, valanni.com

SHOPPING

verdephiladelphia.com

OPEN HOUSE

Specializing in plants and boutique chocolates.

1312 Spruce St., 215-732-3478, vetriristorante.com

For those obsessed with Apartment Therapy.

PARKS + REC

Marc Vetri’s eponymous restaurant is still one of the hottest tickets in town.

MITCHELL & NESS NOSTALGIA CO.

12TH STREET GYM

261 S. 13th St., 215-546-5170, westburybarandrestaurant.com

The destination for vintage sportsball apparel.

The gym that launched a thousand Missed Connections.

A down-to-earth bar with an impressive as-

VERDE

108 S. 13th St., 215-546-8700,

LOUIS I. KAHN MEMORIAL PARK

Refined Medi-Latin cuisine; half of the restaurant now bills itself as a “social night spot.”

VETRI

WESTBURY BAR AND RESTAURANT

107 S. 13th St., 215-922-1415, openhouseliving.com

1201 Chestnut St., 267-273-7622, mitchellandness.com

204 S. 12th St., 215-735-8786, 12streetgym.com

1119 Pine St., kahnpark.tripod.com

CPEVENTSLIST

Only at citypaper.net/agenda/events

36

CITYGUIDE 2012 - 2013

old city/washington square west

“Elfreth’s Alley is the oldest street continuously inhabited in the nation, and people don’t even know it’s here. As a fan of history, I like the fact that hundreds of people have lived on the street since the beginning of the country.”

photos by Neal Santos

— Seun, 30, and Duke, owner of and inspiration behind clothing brand Duke & Winston

old city/washington square west hobble home on the cobblestones.

OCCUPYING THE DENSELY commercial riverside streets between Chestnut and Vine, Front and Fifth, Old City is Philly’s most beautiful and historic neighborhood, home to Independence Hall, Christ Church and the cobblestoned side streets where Founding Fathers lived. That said, on weekend nights it’s a roadkill fiesta of the drunken and clueless.

Stick to weeknights for bar-hopping — or prepare accordingly. From its namesake park at Sixth and Walnut, Washington Square West fans out from Lombard to Chestnut and extends westward to 10th Street; think of it as a quieter, refined sister to mouthy Old City.

while you’re here …

• Scoop the old-fashioned style and elaborate sundaes at Franklin Fountain • Learn a thing or two at the National Museum of American Jewish History • Travel the gallery circuit at First Friday, but go easy on that free wine, ’kay?

• Keep abreast of fashion with Three Sirens Boutique, Sugarcube and Third Street Habit • It’s mesibah (party time) with the modern Israeli cuisine at Zahav

you should know …

The Old City District (oldcitydistrict.org) is a great

go-to website for resident and visitor info — plus, it coined the phrase “Hipstoric.” This district is represented by First District Councilman Mark Squilla (215-686-3458).

explore …

BARS + CLUBS KHYBER PASS PUB

56 S. Second St., 215-238-5888, khyberpasspub.com

This once-storied music venue/craft beer haven’s reinvented itself as a Southern-styled comfortfoodery, still keeping a strong focus on the brews.

MAC’S TAVERN

226 Market St., 267-324-5507, macstavern.com

For the record, this bar, owned by married It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia stars Rob McElhenney and Kaitlin Olson, does not serve milk steak with a side of jelly beans.

C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

37

NatioNal MechaNics

cuBa liBre

MoriMoto

Maintains a buzzy mystique thanks to lush décor and a bar that serves 32 beer varieties.

Contemporary Cuban cuisine in a luscious movie-set-style re-creation of Old Havana.

the Plough & the stars

farMicia

This is what happens when famed Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto collaborates with famed restaurant mogul Stephen Starr.

the hoods

22 S. Third St., 215-701-4883, nationalmechanics.com

old city/washington square west

123 Chestnut St., 215-733-0300, ploughstars.com

A go-to Old City spot for bevs and Irish fare. sugar’s

225 Church St., 215-925-8219, myspace.com/sugarmoms

10 S. Second St., 215-627-0666, cubalibrerestaurant.com

15 S. Third St., 215-627-6274, farmiciarestaurant.com

old city coffee

Farmicia serves portions that would appease most nutritionists at prices that would not offend workaday diners.

Old City denizens linger and schmooze on the outdoor tables along Church Street.

Drink prices here are a practice in fairness, as is the dirt-cheap bar menu.

fork

triuMPh BrewiNg co.

117 Chestnut St., 215-625-0855, triumphbrewing.com

Fork has pioneered a farm-to-table mentality, adding an artisanal edge with hand-crafted pasta, bread, charcuterie and smoked fish.

Triumph’s myriad beers are quaffable crowd-pleasers.

fraNkliN fouNtaiN

ReStAURANtS + MARKetS

306 Market St., 215-625-9425, forkrestaurant.com

116 Market St., 215-627-1899, franklinfountain.com

The Franklin Fountain is a throwback corner ice cream saloon in Old City.

221 Church St., 215-629-9292, oldcitycoffee.com

revolutioN house

200 Market St., 215-625-4566, revolutionhouse.com

The transformation from crappy corner diner to swanky roof-decked restaurant is nothing short of incredible. talula’s gardeN

210 W. Washington Square, 215-592-7787, talulasgarden.com

From the bread service to the dessert, this Stephen Starr collaboration hits all the right high notes.

aMada

uNioN trust

217 Chestnut St., 215-625-2450, amadarestaurant.com

717 Chestnut St., 215-925-6000, uniontruststeakhouse.com

Tapas with a touch of style, combining traditional dishes with innovative techniques.

The endlessly swank Union Trust caters to the caviar and champagne crowd. wedge + fig

Barra

160 N. Third St., 215-238-1716, wedgeandfig.com

239 Chestnut St., 267-324-3127

This cheese bistro packs its menu with light lunch items and sweet treats.

Gordon Dinerman found success with South Philly’s Birra, so he did Old City a favor and opened a restaurant similar in theme and name.

Zahav

237 St. James Place, 215-625-8800, zahavrestaurant.com

BuddakaN

325 Chestnut St., 215-574-9440, buddakan.com

Stephen Starr’s Buddakan provides a glam backdrop for the young and the restless and all who appreciate delicious Pan-Asian fare.

Small plates include raw ground lamb punched up with allspice and a flavorful Moroccan-style fish stew. haN dyNasty

chifa

108 Chestnut St., 215-922-1888, handynasty.net

LiVe MUSic

Jose Garces celebrates the one-of-a-kind amalgam of Peruvian and Cantonese cooking.

Han Dynasty serves Sichuan food and considers proper spicing (read: all the way up to napalm level) its raison d’être.

tiN aNgel

chloe

JoNes

707 Chestnut St., 215-925-5555, chifarestaurant.com

232 Arch St., 215-629-2337, chloebyob.com

Delicious food, great service, cozy atmosphere. the coNtiNeNtal

138 Market St., 215-923-6069, continentalmartinibar.com

The Continental continuously sets the standard for global cuisine and creative cocktails. cooPerage

123 S. Seventh St., 215-226-2667, cooperagephilly.com

Tucked inside the western edge of the Curtis Center, Cooperage specializes in wine, whiskey and Southern-inflected food.

38

723 Chestnut St., 215-413-9070, morimotorestaurant.com

citygUide 2012 - 2013

700 Chestnut St., 215-223-5663, jones-restaurant.com

What’s groovy about Jones is that somehow Stephen Starr has kept the spirit of that smiley ’70s icon alive by employing hearth, home and affordable comfort foods. kaNella

1001 Spruce St., 215-922-1773, kanellarestaurant.com

The Cypriot menu is based around gimmickfree simplicity chef/owner Konstantinos Pitsillides works with organic free-range meats, from quail and rabbit to baby lamb and goat; he also offers locally sourced fish daily.

20 S. Second St., 215-928-0770, tinangel.com

Situated above Serrano restaurant, this cozy Old City hideaway is home to mellow rock acts.

ARtS + cULtURe ardeN theatre co.

40 N. Second St., 215-922-1122, ardentheatre.org

axd gallery

265 S. 10th St., 215-627-6250, a-x-d.com/gallery

cheMical heritage fouNdatioN

315 Chestnut St., 215-925-2222, chemheritage.org

the clay studio 139 N. Second St., 215-925-3453, theclaystudio.org

gallery Joe 302 Arch St., 215-592-7752, galleryjoe.com

Locks GaLLery

600 Washington Sq., 215-629-1000, locksgallery.com 111 N. Third St., 215-923-8536, modernegallery.com

nationaL constitution center

525 Arch St., 215-409-6600, constitutioncenter.org

101 S. Independence Mall East, 215-923-3811, nmajh.org

oLde city tattoo

44 S. Second St., 215-627-6271, oldecitytattoo.com

Artist-made T-shirts, playful dresses and Old World-inspired bags abound at this old-school boutique/gallery space.

Book trader

7 N. Second St., 215-925-0517

A cozy used-books hub worth spending an afternoon or a lifetime wandering through.

BraVe new worLds

45 N. Second St., 215-925-6525, bravenewworldscomics.com

This comics shop doubles as a gallery showcasing local graphic artists.

Lost + found

133 N. Third St., 215-928-1311

This Old City nook features new and vintage clothing, accessories, shoes and jewelry.

MarGot & caMiLe oPtique 47 N. Third St., 215-923-0508, margotcamille.com

The most fashionable frames this side of the Seine. reMod GaLLery

threesirens.com

Trendy and reasonably priced with great service, this boutique is a girl’s best friend. third street haBit Boutique 153 N. Third St., 215-925-5455, thirdstreethabit.com

This chic designer shop offers a large selection of innovative and established brands.

VaGaBond Boutique

37 N. Third St., 267-671-0737, vagabondboutique.com

parKS + rec frankLin square

200 N. Sixth St., 215-629-4026, historicphiladelphia.org

indePendence nationaL historicaL Park 143 S. Third St., 215-965-2305, nps.gov

old city/washington square west

nationaL MuseuM of aMerican Jewish history

116 N. Third St., 215-922-2600, artintheage.com

the hoods

Moderne GaLLery

art in the aGe

sweat fitness

45 N. Third St., 215-923-8763, sweatfitness.com

washinGton square Park 210 W. Washington Square, 215-592-7787

38 S. Third St., 215-278-2934, remodgallery.blogspot.com

Painted Bride art center

230 Vine St., 215-925-9914, paintedbride.org

rodGer LaPeLLe GaLLeries 122 N. Third St., 215-592-0232, rodgerlapellegalleries.com

A new addition to Third Street, ReMOD buys and sells mid-century modern, Danish and Hollywood Regency furniture. sazz VintaGe

60 N. Third St., 215-923-7299, sazzvintage.com

303 Cherry St., 215-238-9576, snyderman-works.com

Except for one “girlfriend rack,” Philly native Amanda Saslow’s vintage boutique is entirely devoted to guys who can rock a powder-blue tux.

st. stePhen’s theatre

scarLett aLLey

Ven and Vaida GaLLery

This boutique has great service and an even greater inventory featuring jewelry, homeware, spa essentials and gifts for everyone from newborns to brides-to-be.

snyderMan-works GaLLeries

923 Ludlow St., 215-829-0395, lanterntheater.org 18 S. Third St., 215-592-4099, venandvaida.com

This Old City gallery is committed to bringing their clients the edgiest jewelry on the market, both modern and period pieces. waLnut street theatre 825 Walnut St., 215-574-3550, walnutstreettheatre.org

The oldest theater in the country celebrates its 203rd birthday this year. wexLer GaLLery

201 N. Third St., 215-923-7030, wexlergallery.com

SHOppinG aka Music

27 N. Second St., 215-922-3855

241 Race St., 215-592-7898, scarlettalley.com

sMak ParLour

219 Market St., 215-625-4551, smakparlour.com

Philly’s pinkest building features handmade pieces by equally sparkly owners Abby Kessler and Katie Loftus. suGarcuBe

124 N. Third St., 215-238-0825, sugarcube.us

The reigning Old City pretty girl with all the cool, expensive clothes, Sugarcube will satisfy your SoHo shopping craving and then some. three sirens Boutique

134 N. Third St., 215-925-3548,

Margot & Camille Optique 47 North 3rd Street Philadelphia, PA 19106 215-923-0508 www.margotcamille.com c i t y pa p e r . n e t

39

society hill/south street east

“You can walk along cobbled streets with rows of 18th-century homes and suddenly come upon a sculpture or patch of green that jostles your senses anew.”

photos by Neal Santos

— Judith, 66, ESL instructor

society hill/south street east at the intersection of young blood and old money.

THE ORLONS SANG about it in the ’60s, and every teenager in the region since came to see what it was all about. South Street from Front to Broad still attracts the young and restless to its gum-tree corners, shows at the TLA and late-night pizza at Lorenzo’s. Because it’s always a buzzing hive of activity, police presence is more pronounced on South than perhaps any other street in the city. A smattering of classier joints and local institutions live on the eastern edge of the hood and through quietly ritzy Society Hill, a dense residential zone of neatly appointed trinity rowhomes and modern condos.

while you’re here …

• Shop the region’s finest produce at Sunday’s Headhouse Farmers Market • Jumpstart your heart with a heavenly cup of fair-trade joe at Bodhi Coffee • Ogle the trash-to-treasure aesthetic of Isaiah Zagar’s Magic Gardens 40

CITYGUIDE 2012 - 2013

• Tune your wheels and score retro accessories at Via Bicycle

• Cheap beer, indoor graffiti and Taco Tuesday: Tattooed Mom never changes

you should know …

The South Street Headhouse District (south-

street.com) provides a comprehensive business directory; Mark Squilla is the City Councilman repping the First District (215-686-3458).

explore …

BARS + CLUBS DARK HORSE PUB

421 S. Second St., 215-928-9307, darkhorsepub.com

Celebrate England and Ireland via heavy stouts, shepherd’s pie and footy on the telly.

MS. TOOTSIE’S

1312 South St., 215-731-9045, mstootsiesrbl.com

Come for the Tootsie Roll, a chocolate martini

with Stoli Vanilla.

TaTTooed MoM

This dive augments its weird-grandma’sparlor décor with a friendly staff and cheap drinks.

BlackBird

507 S. Sixth St., 215-625-6660, blackbirdpizzeria.com

Philly-inspired pizzas and sandwiches that are 100 percent vegan and kosher.

Bodhi

410 S. Second St., 215-239-2928, bodhicoffeephila.com

This artsy café brews Stumptown coffee along with a fresh menu of locally sourced nibbles. headhouse FarMers MarkeT

Second and Lombard streets, thefoodtrust.org

Aside from brisket, Percy’s does pork spare ribs, pork belly, chicken and a killer sausage.

Carefully selected vintage clothing and accessories for men and women.

Pizzeria sTella

Wooden shoe Books

Stephen Starr’s first foray into pizza. There’s a not lot of flash here; the focus is on the pies.

An “all-volunteer anarchist collective” that sells books and records and hosts regular readings and author events.

215 Lombard St., 215-320-8000, pizzeriastella.net

suPPer

926 South St., 215-592-8180, supperphilly.com

More lavish than dinner with the fam, but the urban farmhouse setting makes you feel right at home.

XochiTl

408 S. Second St., 215-238-7280, xochitlphilly.com

Bartenders whip up inspired cocktails, guacamole’s made table-side and over 75 blue agave tequila varieties are available in tasting flights.

MUSic The legendary doBBs

304 South St., 215-501-7288, dobbsphilly.com

Home to live performances since 1974.

508 South St., 267-671-0116, retrospectvintage.com

704 South St., 215-413-0999, woodenshoebooks.com

parKS + rec old Pine coMMuniTy cenTer 401 Lombard St., 215-627-2493, oldpinecommunitycenter.org

Offering all types of programs for all types of ages since the 1970s. sTarr garden rec cenTer

Sixth and Lombard streets, 215-686-1782

society hill/south street east

reStaUrantS + MarKetS

reTrosPecT

900 South St., 215-625-8510, percystreet.com

the hoods

530 South St., 215-238-9880

Percy sTreeT BarBecue

Basketball, day camps, martial arts — you name it, kids can do it here.

Via Bicycle

606 S. Ninth St., 215-627-3370, bikeville.com

The sidewalk crammed with every bike from basic to vintage makes this city commuter staple tough to miss.

The Tla

334 South St., 215-922-1011, tlaphilly.com

artS + cULtUre eyes gallery

402 South St., 215-925-0193, eyesgallery.com

This quirkerie sells everything from masks and ceramics to textiles and furniture. inFiniTe Body Piercing Local food purveyors at this weekend summer market include A.T. Buzby produce, John & Kira’s chocolate, Patches of Star cheese and many more.

626 S. Fourth St., 215-923-7335, infinitebody.com

hoT diggiTy

621 S. Fourth St., 215-829-9833, philadelphiaeddiestattoo.com

The folks at this kooky all-hot-dog joint remind us that wieners can be fun and delicious.

One of the most trusted names in Philly tattoos.

630 South St., 267-886-9253 thehotdiggity.com

ishkaBiBBles eaTery

337 South St., 215-923-4337

Spanish fries or cheese fries? Many patrons of this decades-old cheesesteak institution have trouble deciding between the two.

Marrakesh

If you’ve got it, this long-running body-mod shop will put a ring, a stud or a barbell in it.

PhiladelPhia eddie’s TaTToo

PhiladelPhia’s Magic gardens 1020 South St., 215-733-0390, phillymagicgardens.org

Isaiah Zagar’s ever-growing mural masterpiece is a wonderland of broken glass.

SHOppinG

517 S. Leithgow St., 215-925-5929, marrakesheastcoast.com

rePo records

Don’t eat for at least five hours before dining at this multi-course Moroccan mainstay.

Open in this location since 1998, this shop specializes in new and used CDs and vinyl.

538 South St., 215-627-3775, reporecords.com

0

Audiences cram into this South Street mainstay to see national and underground acts.

YO PHILLY!

COME ENJOY HEALTHY MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE

FRESH, AUTHENTIC, MOUTHWATERING MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE WILL HAVE YOUR PALATE DANCING!

TUESDAY-SUNDAY

SOUTH STREET SOUVLAKI 509 SOUTH STREET, PHILADELPHIA. 215.925.3026

c i t y pa p e r . n e t

41

chinatown/spring garden

“I enjoying hanging out at Sang Kee Peking Duck House for flavorful food at a great price and for the relaxed, friendly service.”

photos by Neal Santos

— Walt, 28, environmental engineer

chinatown/spring garden forget it, jake... it’s the eraserhood.

GOGGLING TOURISTS, branded conventioneers, questing foodies, suicide taxis

The Philadelphia Chinatown Development Corp. (chinatown-pcdc.org) provides resources; First District Councilman is Mark Squilla (215-686-3458).

explore …

BARS + CLUBS

and fuming delivery trucks make tiny Chinatown feel like a buzzing hive. Across the expressway to the north, Spring Garden — where David Lynch got his inspiration for Eraserhead and Diplo used to have his home base — can feel like a wasteland in comparison, but it’s starting to stir. Eat everything in the former — try noodles at Pho 75 or the thousand-layer bread at Rangoon — and watch as the latter becomes the next big neighborhood, mark our words. And don’t forget: Chinese New Year happens in the spring.

HOP SING LAUNDROMAT

while you’re here …

THE INSTITUTE

• Soften tomorrow’s hangover with a 3 a.m. feast at Tai Lake (the seafood rolls are swimming when you arrive) • Reading Terminal Market deals in fast lunches and diverse groceries • Space 1026 houses artists’ studios and is always good for a gallery show 42

you should know …

CITYGUIDE 2012 - 2013

1029 Race St., hopsinglaundromat.com

There’s a lot of rules to getting buzzed in to the outwardly unassuming Hop Sing — owner Lêe turns away anyone in shorts, flip-flops, sneakers or a hat. Or in a party of more than four. Or on a phone.

But inside, the $12 cocktails are excellent, the décor is gorgeous and nobody’s wearing flip-flops.

549 N. 12th St., 267-318-7772, institutebar.com

PROHIBITION TAPROOM

501 N. 13th St., 215-238-1818, theprohibitiontaproom.com

The TresTle Inn

339 N. 11th St., 267-239-0290, thetrestleinn.com

135 N. Ninth St., 215-627-4520, myspace.com/newharmony

oCean CITY

The downstairs space features a full sushi bar, drinkin’ bar and yakitori bar. Upstairs is karaoke, in private rooms or at the bar — either way, huge cans of Sapporo are cost-efficient.

A lively, Hong Kong-style dim sum hall.

234 N. Ninth St., 215-829-0688, oceancityrestaurant.com

Penang

117 N. 10th St., 215-413-2531, penangusa.com

reStaUrantS + MarKetS

The menu requests that you talk to your server before ordering a few Malaysian dishes.

Banana leaf

Pho CalI

The huge dining room can service tons of people, with sweet and savory dishes emerg-

rangoon

1009 Arch St., 215-592-8288

1000 Arch St., 215-629-1888

DInIC’s

Reading Terminal Market, 1136 Arch St., 215-923-6175, tommydinics.com

340 N. 12th St., undergroundarts.org

Vox PoPulI eT al.

319 N. 11th St., 215-238-1236

SHOppinG

TaI lake seafooD resTauranT 134 N. 10th St., 215-922-0698, tailakeseafoodrest.com

aBakus TakeouT

227 N. 10th St., 215-351-7978, abakustakeout.com

Don’t let the exterior fool you — this Chinatown streetwear boutique serves up

For those not too skittish to pick out their own frog from the vivarium in the entranceway.

VIeTnam

221 N. 11th St., 215-592-1163, eatatvietnam.com

lee how fook

We’d pay the $5.75 just to watch the guy in the back window whip and wrangle a fresh batch of this place’s namesake soup component.

The basement of this huge, loft-converted warehouse hosts shows and performing arts throughout the year, especially during Fringe.

Philly’s only source for authentic, affordable Venezuelan cuisine.The high-end hot chocolates, their specialty, are ridiculous.

Well-curated DIY shows, art and film screenings in this former mausoleum showroom that used to be Diplo’s HQ.

1022 Race St., 215-923-1550

unDergrounD arTs

A ton of art collectives live in one four-story building on North 11th Street. See Art, p. 30.

PhIlamoCa

nan Zhou hanD Drawn nooDle house

1026 Arch St., 215-574-7630, space1026.com

941 Spring Garden St., 215-763-2500, sazonrestaurant.com

llama TooTh

Andrew Nguyen’s Szechuan and family-style BYO was founded by his in-laws in 1983. A smaller, reservable room in back has huge tables with lazy susans and is key for feeding large parties at a ridiculously low cost.

1101 Arch St., 215-418-4700, paconvention.com

reaDIng TermInal markeT

MUSic

219 N. 11th St., 215-925-7266, leehowfook.com

PennsYlVanIa ConVenTIon CenTer

See Art, p. 30.

Prepare for the line for the roast pork sandwich to be DiLongest.

1033 Spring Garden St., 267-639-4582, llamatooth.com

1214 Arch St., 215-561-8888, fabricworkshop.org

Traditional Burmese dishes like chili shrimp and thousand-layer bread with potato curry dip.

saZon

428 N. 13th St., 215-922-3031, cafelift.com

faBrIC workshoP & museum

sPaCe 1026

With more than 80 stalls and shops, Reading Terminal Market dates back to 1892, when the Reading Railroad commissioned a food bazaar.

Café lIfT

1219 Vine St., 215-557-0455, asianartsinitiative.org

112 N. Ninth St., 215-829-8939, rangoonrestaurant.com

12th and Arch streets, 215-922-2317, readingterminalmarket.org

ing from the open stainless-steel kitchen. The Roti Canai appetizer is not to be ignored.

artS + cULtUre asIan arTs InITIaTIVe

chinatown/spring garden

211 N. 11th St., 215-923-8088, yakitoriboy.com

Productions opened up their own 1,000-capacity venue in a beautiful old train depot.

It’s real purty, has great sound and details like the omnipresent ledges to rest cups on are a microcosm of how well thought out it is.

the hoods

YakITorI BoY

new harmonY VegeTarIan resTauranT

531 N. 12th St., 267-519-9651, philamoca.org

sTarlIghT Ballroom

460 N. Ninth St., 215-908-2063, starlight-ballroom.com

The TroCaDero

1003 Arch St., 215-922-LIVE, thetroc.com

National bands and hip-hop acts come from all over to this former burlesque house. unIon Transfer

1026 Spring Garden St., 215-232-2100, utphilly.com

In 2011, independent Philly bookers R5

limited-edition sneaks and designer denim, not Chinese food. aIa BooksTore & DesIgn CenTer

1218 Arch St., 215-569-3188, aiabookstore.com

Run by the Philly chapter of the American Institute of Architects, you can get a LEGO kit of Fallingwater here. c i t y pa p e r . n e t

43

center city west/rittenhouse

“La Colombe Coffeehouse is the best place in Rittenhouse Square to get your morning buzz on.”

photos by Neal Santos

— Molly, 29, owner of The Little Apple boutique

center city west/ rittenhouse

If you live in the Second District, Kenyatta Johnson (215-686-3412) is your City councilman.

meet me at the lion and the snake.

explore …

CENTER CITY WEST — with Rittenhouse at its center — is the ritzier-than-most-

DOOBIE’S

of-Philly area between Broad Street and the Schuylkill (say it: SKOO-kul) River, and South and Market streets. Walnut Street is lined with retail from M.A.C. to Barney’s Co-op. Tiny, fancy dogs and their tiny, fancy owners rub shoulders with hula-hoopers, buskers and picnickers in bustling Rittenhouse Square, one of the city’s best peoplewatching spots.

while you’re here …

• Have a baguette and look out for any celebrity in town filming at Parc • Meet up with friends in Rittenhouse Square — designate a landmark (ours is bronze statue “Lion Crushing a Serpent”) or you’ll never find each other • Take in a free lunchtime choir performance at the Church of the Holy Trinity • Get educated on brown liquors while getting spirited at Village Whiskey • Relive (or live) your youth at an all-ages R5 show at First Unitarian Church 44

you should know …

CITYGUIDE 2012 - 2013

BARS + CLUBS 2201 Lombard St., 215-546-0316

FRANKLIN MORTGAGE & INVESTMENT CO.

112 S. 18th St., 267-467-3277, thefranklinbar.com

This speakeasy-themed joint is expensive, but the cocktail menu is half a dozen imaginative pages.

GOOD DOG

224 S. 15th St., 215-985-9600, gooddogbar.com

The best mac & cheese in town; the beer’s good, too.

MONK’S CAFÉ

264 S. 16th St., 215-545-7005, monkscafe.com

A dark, crowded Belgian joint with a staggering

selection of international beers. Don’t miss their frites with bourbon mayonnaise.

BarcLay Prime

237 S. 18th St., 215-732-7560, barclayprime.com

House-brewed beer is what’s on tap here.

BuTcHer & siNger

1524 Sansom St., 215-972-9938

A no-fuss dive with 22-ounce “tall� cups. The “tall lager� for around three bucks is a great idea; the “tall Long Island� is a terrible idea.

THe raveN LouNge

1500 Walnut St., 215-732-4444, butcherandsinger.com

A Mad Men aesthetic creates a toasty backdrop for another manly meat menu. cafĂŠ LuTecia

2301 Lombard St., 215-790-9557

1718 Sansom St., 215-840-3577, ravenlounge.com

This tiny spot serves up Gallic appreciation — its crowning glory is the tomato bisque.

The name is a Poe homage; the velvet dÊcor reflects the poet’s somber inclinations.

eL rey

sTir 1705 Chancellor St., 215-732-2700, stirphilly.com

A sleek, multibar gay lounge.

2013 Chestnut St., 215-563-3330, elreyrestaurant.com

The walls are filled with trippy Mexican prison art; in the back is a covert cocktail bar.

audrey cLaire

276 S. 20th St., 215-731-1222, audreyclaire.com.

HiPciTyveg

127 S. 18th St., 215-278-7605, hipcityveg.com

erawaN

reStaUrantS + MarKetS

Chef Mike Stollenwerk has a talent for imbuing simple preparations with just enough complexity to engage without distracting.

center city west/rittenhouse

oscar’s TaverN

the hoods

1516 Sansom St., 2nd Fl., 215-569-9525, noddinghead.com

Dedicated to the decadence of rare prime rib eyes, dry-aged porterhouses and turning burly machismo on its ear in the process.

NoddiNg Head

123 S. 23rd St., 215-567-2542

In a city with a scarcity of Thai spots, this is one of the few, and is quite tasty.

The Ziggy, a smoked tempeh burger, one-ups the Big Mac with its special sauce.

La coLomBe

130 S. 19th St., 215-563-0860, lacolombe.com

fisH

1234 Locust St., 215-545-9600, fishphilly.com

Euro-bohemia meets Rittenhouse chic at the

")+%3 7)4(/54 " 3 shop the heart of philadelphia J. Crew aldo Jos. a. bank

"IKEWORX COM

!UTHORIZED &ACTORY /UTLET

express GodiVa loft

1 6 th and Chestnut street 2 1 5 - 8 5 1 - 9 0 5 5 w w w . s h o p s a t l i b e r t y. C o m mon-sat 9:30-7pm, sun 12-6pm

3PRUCE 3TREET 0HILADELPIHA

c i t y pa p e r . n e t

45

flagship shop of the richest java in town. the hoods

Le Bec Fin

1523 Walnut St., 215-567-1000, lebecfin.com

The top Family Feud answer for “What’s the fanciest place in Philly?”

MaMa PaLMa’s

center city west/rittenhouse

2229 Spruce St., 215-735-7357

An aesthetically pleasing pizzeria that’s all about wood-fired toasty tastes. noM noM RaMen

20 S. 18th St., 215-988-0898, nomnomramen.com

RotisseuR

r5productions.com

Cage-, hormone- and antibiotic-free rotisserie chicken paired with classic American sides.

The church’s basement is a sweaty all-ages haven for indie acts. Upstairs Chapel concerts are more intimate.

102 S. 21st St., 215-496-9494, rotisseur.net

sBRaga

440 S. Broad St., 215-735-1913, sbraga.com

After winning season 7 of Top Chef, Kevin Sbraga brought his vision of upscale, downhome comfort food to Broad Street. sHaKe sHacK

2000 Sansom St., 215-809-1742, shakeshack.com

Broth, pork belly, veggies and noodles.

A local outpost of the much-lauded New York burger joint, with a Philly-centric spin.

oysteR House

sPRead BageLRy

1516 Sansom St., 215-567-7683, oysterhousephilly.com

262 S. 20th St., 215-545-0626, spreadbagelry.com

Montreal-style wood-fired bagels. The wait is worth it. tinto

114 S. 20th St., 215-665-9150, tintorestaurant.com

Jose Garces’ Tinto follows a Spanish tapas model straight out of San Sebastian. twenty Manning gRiLL

261 S. 20th St., 215-731-0900, twentymanning.com

A bistro/lounge offering a casual American menu and fresh rotating “plates of the day.” undeRdogs

132 S. 17th St., 215-665-8080, underdogsphilly.com

ARtS + cuLtuRe acadeMy oF Music

1420 Locust St., 215-893-1935, academyofmusic.org

A grand theater hosting the Opera Company of Philadelphia and the Pennsylvania Ballet. tHe adRienne tHeatRe

2030 Sansom St., 215-568-8077

The 103-seater is kind of a time-share for many of the city’s smaller theater companies. centeR FoR eMeRging VisuaL aRtists 237 S. 18th St., 215-546-7775, cfeva.org

cHaMBeR oRcHestRa oF PHiLadeLPHia 1520 Locust St., 215-545-5451, chamberorchestra.org

HeLiuM coMedy cLuB

2031 Sansom St., 215-496-9001, heliumcomedy.com

Standup from well-known funny people.

KiMMeL centeR FoR tHe PeRFoRMing aRts

300 S. Broad St., 215-893-1999, kimmelcenter.org

The 2,500-seat theater is the queen bee on Broad Street.

Encased meats done up a couple dozen ways.

VeRnicK Food & dRinK The fried oysters with chicken salad is a lesserknown Philly specialty.

PaRc

227 S. 18th St., 215-545-2262, parc-restaurant.com

Watching the sun strike the open windows of Stephen Starr’s high-end French restaurant is a beyond-elegant moment.

After prepping spots for major-leaguer JeanGeorges Vongerichten, Gregory Vernick returns home with a menu reflecting his travels.

ViLLage wHisKey

118 S. 20th St., 215-665-1088, villagewhiskey.com

PHiLadeLPHia cHutney co.

Jose Garces’ amalgam of swing-era ambience and Southern comfort food — with one of the best damn burgers in the city.

This quick-serve, vegetarian spot serves up mainly the South Indian crepes called dosas.

MuSic

PuB & KitcHen

1421 Sansom St., 215-568-3131, chrisjazzcafe.com

1628 Sansom St., 215-564-6446, philadelphiachutneyco.com

1946 Lombard St., 215-545-0350, thepubandkitchen.com

A stellar booze selection and U.K.-inspired fare (try the signature Churchill burger).

PuRe FaRe

cHRis’ Jazz caFé

Catch local and big-name acts almost every night of week at this venue and restaurant. tHe cuRtis institute oF Music

1726 Locust St., 215-717-3100, curtis.edu

MütteR MuseuM

19 S. 22nd St., 215-563-3737, collphyphil.org

Horrify yourself at the College of Physicians’ famed museum of medical oddities — including the world’s largest colon. (Preserved.)

PHiLadeLPHia aRt aLLiance

251 S. 18th St., 215-545-4302, philartalliance.org

The calorie-conscious menu items were vetted by a professor of nutrition education.

Curtis, a serious contender for best music school in the country, offers free or dirt-cheap course-requirment recitals and concerts clustered near the ends of semesters.

RacHaeL’s nosHeRi

FiRst unitaRian cHuRcH

RosenBacH MuseuM & LiBRaRy

119 S. 21st St., 267-318-7441, purefare.com

120 S. 19th St., 215-568-9565, rachaelsnosheri.com 46

2031 Walnut St., 267-639-6644, vernickphilly.com

cityguide 2012 - 2013

2125 Chestnut St., 866-468-7619,

PLays & PLayeRs tHeateR

1714 Delancey Place, 215-735-0630, playsandplayers.org 2008 Delancey Place, 215-732-1600,

drmartens.com

Houses rare books and manuscripts, with an extensive Maurice Sendak collection.

Self-explanatory!

Roxy TheaTRe

1608 Pine St., 215-545-0963, omoionline.com

An old-timey movie theater.

Clothing and accessories inspired by Japanese pop culture.

Suzanne RobeRTS TheaTRe

Sa Va

Home of the Philadelphia Theatre Co.

Nearly everything in Sarah Van Aken’s boutique is made next door by locals.

2023 Sansom St., 215-923-6699

SHOppinG

oMoi

1700 Sansom St., 215-587-0004, savafashion.com

ShopS aT libeRTy place

anThRopologie

1801 Walnut St., 215-568-2114, anthropologie.com

1625 Chestnut St., 215-851-9055, shopsatliberty.com

You know Urban Outfitters and Anthropologie are from Philly, right?

A smallish mall with a J.Crew, food court and flashback-inducing Claire’s jewelry store.

fRankinSTien bikewoRx

buffalo exchange

ubiQ

Owner Jeff Harris, as “Doc Dirt,” was BFFs with the Dead Milkmen back in the day and members drop in for a chat from time to time.

It’s a surreal, unique bike-repair experience.

1713 Chestnut St., 215-557-9850, buffaloexchange.com

Bring your good-condition duds to trade for cash or store credit (they’re pretty choosy, though!), or buy someone else’s on the cheap.

The DR. MaRTen’S SToRe

1710 Walnut St., 215-545-2455,

1509 Walnut St., 215-988-0194, ubiqlife.com

Like Mecca for sneakerheads.

parKS + rec bReakaway bikeS

1923 Chestnut St., 215-568-6002, breakawaybikes.com

1529 Spruce St., 215-893-0415, frankinstienbikeworx.com

center city west/rittenhouse

480 S. Broad St., 215-985-0420, philadephiatheatrecompany.org

the hoods

rosenbach.org

RiTTenhouSe SQuaRe 18th and Walnut streets

Schuylkill bankS

25th and Locust streets, 215-222-6030

c i t y pa p e r . n e t

47

bella vista/queen village

Best park moment: On a shaded bench with Italian ice, watching dogs play while little girls sold lemonade nearby — Bella Vista means “beautiful view,” and Cianfrani Park is a perfect example.

photos by Neal Santos

— Mikala, 23, community-newspaper editor

bella vista/ queen village

south philly’s well-to-do younger sis.

TAKING UP THE space south of South and north of Washington, Queen Village (from Front to Sixth) and Bella Vista (from Sixth to 10th) have evolved from oldschool Italian neighborhoods into some of the most desirable real estate in the city.

From the hot yoga moms pushing strollers down the streets of pretty rowhouses to the endless quest for free street parking, this zone is Philadelphia’s Park Slope, complete with the old-man locals rolling bocce in Bardascino Park, hipsters accessorizing at Philly AIDS Thrift and the sculpturally minded taking classes at Fleischer Art Memorial.

while you’re here …

• Cool off with a classic water ice from John’s. Two bucks gets you a two-scooper • Don’t miss the wood-oven pizza and exciting vegetable program at Kennett • The grilled octopus and heavenly baba ganouj never get old at Dmitri’s • Grab a dog and run along Front Street • Stock up on whole foods at natural grocer Essene 48

CITYGUIDE 2012 - 2013

you should know …

The Bella Vista United Civic Association (bvuca.org) and Queen Village Neighbors Association (qvna.

org) are good places to start if you’re seeking community involvement. After decades of work as a community activist, South Philly native and longtime Democrat Mark Squilla (215-686-3458) is celebrating his first year repping the district in City Council.

explore …

BARS + CLUBS 12 STEPS DOWN

831 Christian St., 215-238-0379, 12stepsdown.com

What 12 Steps Down lacks in windows it makes up for in cheap beer and shots.

THE DIVE

947 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-465-5505

The type of neighborhood bar you wished you had just around the corner.

Royal TaveRn

937 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-389-6694, royaltavern.com

Bella visTa BeeR DisTRiBuToRs 755 S. 11th St., 215-627-6465, bellavistabeverage.com

The 38,000-square-foot space carries more than 2,000 varieties of beer .

BiBou

1009 S. Eighth St., 215-965-8290, biboubyob.com

Featuring a custom gizmo that pressure-fills 64ounce growlers with hard-to-find craft beers.

727 S. Fourth St., 215-627-2357, busstopboutique.com

Bus sTop

isGRo pasTRies

This is the only Philly shoe store Carrie Bradshaw would realistically set her Manolos in.

Isgro’s signature cannoli is sacred, different than anyone else’s.

CoMMuniTy

1009 Christian St., 215-923-3092, bestcannoli.com

John’s waTeR iCe

712 S. Fourth St., 267-861-0544, communitybikesandboards.com

701 Christian St., 215-925-6955, johnswaterice.com

Artistry skate boards and boutique BMX bikes.

Old-school water ice that’s so enticing, it warranted a visit from President Obama.

passional

liTTle fish

704 S. Fifth St., 215-829-4986, passionalboutique.com

746 S. Sixth St., 267-455-0127, littlefishbyob.com

This sexy shop redefines “unmentionables.”

Once voted one of the top three seafood restaurants in America.

philly aiDs ThRifT

Monsu

All sales at this big-ass thrift store go straight to local HIV/AIDS charities.

Whether it’s brunch or dinner, this elegant BYO will inspire a new appreciation for Sicilian fare.

PARKS + REC

MoRninG GloRy DineR

10th and Carpenter streets, bardascinopark.org

901 Christian St., 215-440-0495, monsurestaurant.com

735 S. 10th St., 215-413-3999, themorningglorydiner.com

A small and charming neighborhood brunch spot featuring high-quality fresh foods.

710 S. Fifth St., 215-922-3186, phillyaidsthrift.com

bella vista/queen village

RESTAURANTS + MARKETS

SHOPPING the hoods

The mahogany bar provides an old-world setting for new American fare steeped in creativity.

738 S. 11th St., 215-627-3012, hawthornecafe.com

hawThoRnes BieRCafÉ

BaRDasCino paRk CianfRani paRk

Eighth and Fitzwater streets

saBRina’s CafÉ

910 Christian St., 215-574-1599, sabrinascafe.com

Arguably the best brunch in town.

Neighborhood sweetheart Bibou is the best French bistro in a city teeming with them.

BisTRoT la MineTTe

shoT ToweR Coffee

542 Christian St., 267-886-8049, shottowercoffee.com

Where we get our Stumptown-coffee fix.

623 S. Sixth St., 215-925-8000, bistrotlaminette.com

souThwaRk

An enchanting Francophilian restaurant that should delight anyone in search of le refuge.

Features seasonal, original and global bites.

ChapTeRhouse CafÉ & GalleRy 620 S. Ninth St., 215-238-2626

Patrons can pick up a perk-up while perusing walls lined with works by local artists.

CoChon

801 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-923-7675, cochonbyob.com

Chef/co-owner Gene Giuffi churns out the most swinefully inspired of French cooking.

CRepeRie Beau MonDe

701 S. Fourth St., 215-238-1888, southwarkrestaurant.com

villaGe Belle

757 S. Front St., 215-551-2200, thevillagebelle.com

Delectably fresh Mediterranean fare.

Zen-noR

617 S. Third St., 215-278-2650

This hood newbie offers an intriguing mix of French- and Japanese-inspired plates.

ARTS + CULTURE

624 S. Sixth St., 215-592-0656, creperie-beaumonde.com

fleisheR aRT MeMoRial

A superb selection of sweet and savory crepes.

soCieTy hill playhouse

faMous 4Th sTReeT DeliCaTessen 700 S. Fourth St., 215-922-3274

Nobody knows Jewish-Euro noshing like this deli just south of South.

719 Catharine St., 215-922-3456, fleisher.org 507 S. Eighth St., 215-923-0210, societyhillplayhouse.org

shuBin TheaTRe

407 Bainbridge St., 215-592-0119, shubintheatre.com

Saturday Lunch & Sunday Brunch ‘til 3:30 Serving dinner Tuesday through Saturday 757 South Front Street at Fitzwater 215.551.2200 www.theVillageBelle.com C I T y PA P E R . N E T

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graduate hospital/grays ferry

“I’ve been to Resurrection Ale House by myself, with friends and on a date, and it always felt like the right setting because it has good beer and a non-snobby staff, without the typical dive atmosphere you see a lot in Philly.”

photos by Neal Santos

— Michelle, 24, journalist

graduate hospital/ grays ferry/south street west the doctor is out.

Bob & Barbara’s

• Whether you’re a novice or an experienced roadster, shop for new wheels or get a quick tune-up at Bicycle Therapy

you should know …

ton and from Broad to Gray’s Ferry Avenue, the area jokily called G-Ho has everything but the Graduate Hospital it was named for (closed in 2007). Though less heavily trafficked by pedestrians than the east side of South, the street does serve as the commercial hub of the ’hood, which grows more residential and slightly sketchier as you travel south. Some of that sketch is being drawn over in Grays Ferry, where the sounds of construction are putting affordable properties in the spotlight.

The South of South Neighborhood Association (southofsouth.org) is a great resource for residents and visitors.Thank the Grays Ferry Community Council (graysferrycc.org) for all that new development. Graduate Hospital falls within the city’s Second District, represented by Councilman Kenyatta Johnson (215-686-3412).

while you’re here …

explore …

• Who needs fries when the blackened green beans at Grace Tavern are so addictive?

Oh, hell, get the fries, too • Hit the Sunday prix fixe menu at Pumpkin for the best local/seasonal fare around.

GRACE TAVERN

A COMPACT, LARGELY residential quadrant that reaches from South to Washing-

50

• Get in touch with your inner grandma with knitting classes at Loop • Catch drag show’s on Thursday or weekend jazz at

CITYGUIDE 2012 - 2013

BARS + CLUBS 2229 Grays Ferry Ave., 215-893-9580, gracetavern.com

Vintage beauty aside, Grace offers an impressive beer selection and delectable grub.

1525 South St., 215-735-1116, jetwinebar.com

1436 South St., 215-545-8644, jajerkhut.com

This ideal summer spot combines authentic Caribbean food with outdoor seating.

Wine selections from across the globe and a light menu of cheese and charcuterie.

PumPkin

resurrection ale House

Pumpkin lights a beacon of BYOB excellence on South Street West: The service is perfect and the setup is thoughtful down to the smallest details.

The beer list here is kick-ass: 13 fairly priced drafts, plus a few dozen up-market bottles. sidecar Bar & Grille

2201 Christian St., 215-732-3429, thesidecarbar.com

Miller High Life specials coexist with a craftbrew-leaning draft selection and smarterthan-your-average bar eats.

reStaUrantS + MarKetS Govinda’s

1408 South St., 215-985-9303, govindasvegetarian.com

This take-out heaven for the hood’s veggie set features wraps, sandwiches ice creams and desserts.

1713 South St., 215-545-4448, pumpkinphilly.com

graduate hospital/grays ferry

2425 Grays Ferry Ave., 215-735-2202, resurrectionalehouse.com

the hoods

Jet Wine Bar

Jamaican Jerk Hut

saWatdee

1501 South St., 215-790-1299

Thai BYO Sawatdee (Thai for “hello�) serves affordable lunch and dinner fare, from tom kha gai to multicolored curries.

SHOppinG Girl.Bike.doG.

625 South 23rd St., 215-253-8364, girlbikedog.com

parKS + rec Julian aBele Park

22nd and Carpenter streets, julianabelepark.org

marian anderson recreation center

looP

1914 South St., 215-893-9939, loopknits.com

744 South 17th St., 215-413-1318, mariananderson.org

sPool

Bicycle tHeraPy

1912 South St., 215-545-0755, store.spoolsewing.com

2211 South St., 215-735-7849, bicycletherapy.com

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south philly

“A trip to Federal Donuts is sometimes a pilgrimage for lovers of great flavor, but we’re lucky to live close enough to make it a regular morning walk.”

photos by Neal Santos

— Nick, 31, Angie, 28, and Sid, software engineer, aspiring real-estate mogul and dog

south philly are you wit’ or wit’out?

ATTEMPTING TO DEFINE the huge swath of city south of Washington between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers is like trying to put a hairnet on a Hell’s Angel: unnecessary and dangerous. Pennsport, Southwark, Wharton, Newbold, LoMo … with so many neighborhoods, trying to apply just one adjective to big, bad ’ol Souf Philly is an exercise in failure. That said, if you yell, “Yo, Antny!” at any corner, someone will turn around; bread is serious business, so find yourself a favorite and defend it; and yes, you can actually park legally in the middle of Broad Street (below Washington) and doublepark your neighbors. Listen for their horn blasts to release them.

while you’re here …

• Delicious sandwiches and old-school attytood are always on the menu at Nick’s Roast Beef

• Refine your skateboard style dropping in on the ramps at FDR Park • Snag a cheapo standing-room seat for a Phils game at airy Citizens Bank Park • Join the (mostly) friendly mayhem of New Year’s Day on Two Street after the Mummers Parade

• Order anything on South Philly Tap Room’s menu: it’s impossible to go wrong 52

CITYGUIDE 2012 - 2013

you should know …

Every microneighborhood in South Philly seems to have its own group, from the Lower Moyamensing Civic Association (lomophilly.org) to the Pennsport Civic Association (pennsportcivic.org). First District Councilman is Mark Squilla (215-6863459) and Second District Councilman is Kenyatta Johnson (215-686-3413), both Democrats.

explore …

BARS + CLUBS AMERICAN SARDINE BAR

1801 Federal St., 215-334-2337, americansardinebar.com

Sardines are an unlikely muse for a gastropub, but when sandwiched between a crunchy baguette and served for $2, these silver delights truly shine.

DEVIL’S DEN

1148 S. 11th St., 215-339-0855, devilsdenphilly.com

A destination for a true suds-lover, Devil’s Den features 17 beers on tap and 200 bottles in the cold case.

on a Sarcone’s roll, packed with roasted peppers, broccoli rabe and baked eggplant.

The crown jewel of Newbold, the SPTR hosts a cross-section of serious South Philly drinkers.

ciRcleS

1509 Mifflin St., 215-271-7787, southphiladelphiataproom.com

the ugly ameRican

The Ugly American boasts a thoughtful list of domestic microbrews.

WatkinS dRinkeRy

1712 S. 10th St., 215-339-0175

With menu offerings like antelope shepherd’s pie and kangaroo nachos, we can safely say this place is full of wild animals.

Circles provides cheap Thai cuisine to the masses, with plenty of vegan options.

We’re gonna get our ass kicked for divulging this South Philly secret, but OMG, the queso sauce and tortilla chips are worth every bruise.

Sure, it’s an odd location for a history museum, but that means the quirk factor is sufficiently amped: Expect everything from waffle parties to Swedish language classes.

1138 S. 13th St., 267-463-2020

fedeRal donutS

1219 S. Second St., federaldonuts.com

mummeRS muSeum

The business plan is simple: offer three highly addictive foods — coffee, doughnuts and fried chicken — and make them better than anything you’ve ever tasted.

A museum space dedicated to celebrating one of Philly’s strangest traditions.

Philly experimental theater at its damned finest.

1 Citizens Bank Park Way, 215-463-1000, citizensbank.com/ballpark

citizenS Bank PaRk

caPitolo PaRk

The coffee’s delicious, the baked goods are vegan and the soundtrack is heavy metal.

10th and Federal streets

Slice

Broad and Pattison streets

fdR PaRk

1180 S. 10th St., 215-463-0868, slicepa.com

From classic pastas to homemade desserts, this cozy BYO boasts a menu of seasonal bites.

1523 S. Eighth St., 215-334-1816, termini.com

BReW/ultimo coffee BaR

1340 S. 13th St., 215-218-4022, theatreexile.org

gRindcoRe houSe

1247 S. 13th St., 215-468-5926, augustbyob.com

This café serves smiles with their fine coffee.

theatRe exile

parKS + rec

This cash-only gourmet takeout joint has freshness on the brain. Their golden-baked Neapolitan pizzas are worth the wait.

1236 South Eighth St., 215-334-1502, bennascafe.com

1100 S. Second St., 215-336-3050, mummersmuseum.com

The “green” in the name refers to the owners’ eco-friendly approach to doing business. The “eggs”? Self-explanatory.

1515 S. Fourth St., 215-839-3333, grindcorehouse.com

Benna’S

ameRican SWediSh hiStoRical muSeum

1900 Pattison Ave., 215-389-1776, americanswedish.org

1306 Dickinson St., 215-226-EGGS, greeneggscafe.net

auguSt

artS + cULtUre

el JaRocho

gReen eggS café

reStaUrantS + MarKetS

You’ll find cool blues and jazz on the stage and hot soul and southern food on the plate.

teRmini BRoS. BakeRy

Vincent Termini’s wildly popular bakery headquarters serves all manner of Italian pastries, cakes, cookies and cannoli. Picking up sweets for the holidays? Expect to wait in line.

1900 S. 15th St., 215-339-5177, ultimocoffee.wordpress.com

tony luke’S

This pleasant little two-fer offers artisanal coffee, sandwiches and veggie delights.

Self-styled renaissance man Tony Luke has dipped his toe into movies and music, but nothing draws a crowd like his cheesesteaks.

JeffeRSon SquaRe PaRk

MUSic

lincoln financial field

caRman’S countRy kitchen 1301 S. 11th St., 215-339-9613

There are only four tables and a half-dozen counter seats, but owner Carman Luntzel manages to fit in every customer — even if she has to put them in the bed of her truck. chickie’S italian deli

1014 Federal St., 215-462-8040

Their signature sandwich is the veggie hoagie

south philly

1100 S. Front St., 215-336-1100, uglyamericanphilly.com

1514 Tasker St., 267-455-0785, circlesnewbold.com

warmdaddys.com the hoods

South PhiladelPhia taP Room

39 East Oregon Ave,, 215-551-5725, tonylukes.com

VictoR café

1303 Dickinson St., 215-468-3040, victorcafe.com

Fourth Street and Washington Avenue, jeffersonsquarepark.org 1 NovaCare Way, 215-339-6700, lincolnfinancialfield.com

This Italian spot features live opera singing seven nights a week.

mike’S BikeS

WaRmdaddy’S

PaSSyunk SquaRe PaRk

1400 S Columbus Blvd., 215-462-2000,

1901 S. 13th St., 215-334-9100 13th and Wharton streets

c i t y pa p e r . n e t

53

east passyunk/italian market

“The superheroes we find in South Philly Comics possess characteristics every drag performer should have: sharp wits, muscles to fight adversity and fab costumes. Plus, comic geeks are hot!”

photos by Neal Santos

— Nathan, 31, and Ian, 38, drag queens Mrs. Pinklewinkle and Brittany Lynn

east passyunk/ italian market

would you like us to cook that for you?

EAST PASSYUNK AVENUE (say it: PASH-unk) runs in a northeastern diagonal line between Broad and South streets. For our purposes, we’re considering the East Passyunk hood anything on the Avenue from Broad to Washington. In recent years, the children’s boutiques and Italian restaurants that have occupied East Passyunk for decades have been joined by a bevy of new bars and shops. A similar change has begun in the Italian Market, where the Ninth Street corridor below Washington would be better named the Mexican Market. The entire zone is a Bermuda Triangle of stellar food; eat everything you see.

while you’re here …

• Order the namesake stromboli at Stogie Joe’s and don’t sweat the calories • Sink your teeth into a hot-from-the-oven soft pretzel at Center City Pretzel Co. • Try before you buy at DiBruno Bros., the heaviest-hitting cheese geeks in town • Drink crafty at the P.O.P.E. before/after hitting one of the enclave’s many mouthwatering restaurants 54

CITYGUIDE 2012 - 2013

• Compare tattoos over coffee, smoothies and vegan soft-serve at staple coffeehouse B2

you should know …

Visit passyunksquare.org and italianmarketphilly.org for helpful resources and numbers, like the contact for your First District Councilman Mark Squilla (215-686-3458).

explore …

BARS + CLUBS PUB ON PASSYUNK EAST

1501 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-755-5125, pubonpassyunkeast.com

The P.O.P.E. combines a mind-boggling draft selection, killer bottle list (ask for the book), pub food and, on weekends, wall-to-wall skinny jeans and rompers.

RAY’S HAPPY BIRTHDAY BAR

1200 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-365-1169, thehappybirthdaybar.com

The menu at Benna’s sister shop is similar to the original, with soups, pastries and an expanded sandwich menu.

StickS & StoneS

1700 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-324-3127, birraphilly.com

1909 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-964-9127

Stogie Joe’S

1801 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-463-3030, stogiejoestavern.com

Their pizza is backward (sauce on top, cheese on the bottom), but don’t be alarmed — it’s intentional.

Birra

Pair your Italian craft beer with one of this hot spot’s inventive pizzas.

Black n Brew

1523 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-639-6070, blackbrew.net

You can’t miss this funky-looking neighborhood corner coffee shop, or the Isaiah Zagar mosaic adorning its facade. What’s on the menu? A variety of coffees from La Colombe and your choice of brunch selections.

Passyunk people-watching experience.

reStaUrantS + MarKetS

the Bottle Shop

1837 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-551-5551, bottleshopbeer.com

capogiro gelateria

943

A boutique beer haven stocked to the gills with mix-a-sixables from far-away places and local breweries alike.

In South Philly’s first Capogiro, local artisans restored the original counter stools to keep part of the gravy-ladling grandma charm alive.

cantina loS caBallitoS

chhaya

Grab a table outside for the ultimate East

Fresh coffee, baked goods, waffles and choco-

943 S. Ninth St., 215-925-0900, cafe943.com

Homemade pasta and ravioli, Italian and Argentinean family recipes and a casual, friendly atmosphere in the heart of the Italian Market.

B2

1500 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-5520

1651 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-755-3550, cantinaloscaballitos.com

1625 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-462-3790

east passyunk/italian market

Check out 12 rotating taps at this cozy Passyunk spot, plus a nice selection of comfort foods.

the hoods

Ray’s is a place where every man can will himself into a chain-smoking, liquor-swilling, joke-peddling member of his own personal Rat Pack.

1823 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-465-1000, chhayacafe.com

c i t y pa p e r . n e t

55

the hoods

late sauce that’s made in-house daily.

Claudio’s

1710 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-909-8033, plentyphiladelphia.com

Claudio’s lives up to its King of Cheeses moniker with an extensive menu of fresh specialty foods including olives and imported pastas.

Plenty caters gourmet prepared foods and sandwiches with local, in-season ingredients and in-house-smoked meats. Eat-in and takeout options are available, too.

diBruno Bros.

salt & PePPer

924-26 S. Ninth St., 215-627-1873, claudiofood.com

east passyunk/italian market

Plenty

930 S. Ninth St., 215-922-2876, dibruno.com

There’s always a queue here, but the cheesemongers’ dairy-based willingness to dole out gigantic samples makes it all worthwhile.

Fond

1623 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-238-1920, saltandpepperphilly.com

A romantic American bistro with a mission to keep its menu seasonal. stateside

1617 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-551-5000, fondphilly.com

1536 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-551-2500, statesidephilly.com

The pacing is as good as the food, and the down-to-earth service bears the stamp of full investment.

One of the hood’s best new spots for local domestic craft brews, a long list of whiskeys and a menu rife with tasty small plates.

Gleaner’s

917 S. Ninth St., 215-923-3205, myspace.com/thegleanerscafe

Stop by for a cup of La Colombe coffee, hangover-cure bagel sandwiches and indie tunes.

Green aisle GroCery

MuSic Connie’s riC raC

1132 S. Ninth St., 215-279-7587, conniesricrac.com

An electronics-store-turned-venue for local rock bands.

1618 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-465-1411, greenaislegrocery.com

South Philly couple Corey Baver and Lynn Rinaldi were tired of trekking to Morimoto or Sagami for sushi — now their neighbors won’t have to, either.

1627 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-2066, paradisophilly.com

This local Italian eatery boasts its own rooftop garden that yields many of the ingredients used in seasonal menus.

Pat’s KinG oF steaKs

1237 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-468-1546, patskingofsteaks.com

The Cheesesteak Capital of the Universe.

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cityguide 2012 - 2013

1615 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-324-5172, metromensclothing.com

Stylish duds for the dapperest of dudes. molly’s BooKs & reCords 1010 S. Ninth St., 215-923-3367, mollysbooksandrecords.com

After adding records to their arsenal, Molly’s has something for every vinyl revivalist — but can still keep any bookworm busy browsing all afternoon. niCe tHinGs Handmade

1731 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-455-0256, facebook.com/nicethingshandmade

Nice Things has more swank ceramics, jewelry, clothing, prints and other art from local artists than you’ll even know what to do with.

1621 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-318-7855, facebook.com/southphillycomics

Comics, graphic novels and an array of nerd paraphernalia.

1927 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-5626, levirtu.com

Paradiso

metro men’s ClotHinG

soutH PHilly ComiCs

le Virtu

Call for a reservation, and a voice on an oldfashioned machine asks you to leave details for Friday, Saturday or Sunday. If no one calls you back, you’re good to go.

A full-service music store for instruments, supplies, lessons or recording.

They’re the only new-and-used scooter retailer in the city, with all the big names — Genuine, Kymco,Vespa — plus all of your scooter-accessory needs.

1601 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-1222, izumiphilly.com

1646 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-755-0663

1828 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-344-1799, facebook.com/kingsmusicphiladelphia

1733 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-336-8255, philadelphiascooters.com

izumi

mr. martino’s trattoria

KinG’s musiC

PHiladelPHia sCooters inC.

This boutique grocer carries specialized products, some sourced from fancy-pants Philly restaurants.

One of the finer destinations in this primorestaurant-clad enclave.

Open by appointment only, Sara Selepouchin’s brick-and-mortar studio produces her DIY collection of housewares.

urBan JunGle

SHOPPiNg aCi nae

1928 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-755-1480, acinae.com

This specialty boutique will fit you in custom clothes and jewelry.

FaBriC Horse

1737 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-995-1026, fabrichorse.com

Fabric Horse boasts a huge variety of utility belts, bags and other hand-stitched cycling gear.

Fante’s

1006 S. Ninth St., 215-922-5557, fantes.com

After you’ve stocked up on groceries from the market, head to Fante’s to pick up the kitchenware that makes dinner possible.

Girls Can tell

1141 S. Pierce St., girlscantell.com

1526 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-952-0811, urbanjunglephila.com

Find the tools needed for digging into urban gardening, particularly of the vertical greenwall type.

PARKS + Rec Bell’s BiKe sHoP

1320 E. Passyunk Ave., 888-901-9990, bellsbikeshop.com

CaPitolo PlayGround

Ninth and Federal streets, 215-685-1883

Fitness WorKs

714 E. Reed St., 215-334-8190, fitnessworks.com

mexiBiKe

1139 S. Ninth St., 267-886-8498

sinGinG Fountain ParK

Tasker Street and E. Passyunk Avenue

west philadelphia/university city/southwest philly

“I love coming to Farm 51 in West Philly, because of the animals. It’s unsuspecting in the middle of the city.”

photos by Neal Santos

— RaZion, 13, student

west philadelphia/ university city/ southwest philly hippies, hipsters and hip-hoppers.

WE WON’T GET into the hairy debate over what’s West Philly, what’s University City and what’s Southwest Philly, so consider U City centered around Penn and Drexel in the 30 and lower-40 streets, and the Southwest beginning somewhere just below Baltimore and heading all the way to the airport. Stuffed with college students from around the world, West Philly boasts a global array of cuisines, particularly Ethiopian and Middle Eastern bites. Lined with trees and gracious, spacious twin homes, the wide streets are welcoming in a way that only happens over the river, but be sure to mind the trolley tracks when biking Baltimore Avenue — catch a tire in there and you’re curtains.

while you’re here …

• Excite your brain (for free!) at the Institute of Contemporary Art • Find out what Lebanese pizza is at Manakeesh Café Bakery

• Hang out bohemian-style in Clark Park and shop the year-round Saturday farmers’ market • Check out bluegrass night and a ridiculous whiskey selection at Fiume • Check out University Square’s website for a huge list of more places to eat and shop.

you should know …

Founded in 1997, the University City District (universitycity.org) is an e-hub for all sorts of information, from hotels and restaurants to volunteering and public safety. West Philly is represented by Third District Councilwoman Jannie Blackwell (215-6863418). Kenyatta Johnson (215-686-3412) runs the Second District, which extends to Southwest Philly.

explore …

BARS + CLUBS CAPOGIRO GELATO

3925 Walnut St., 215-222-0252, capogirogelato.com

When other University City bars become too C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

57

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crowded with underage students, sip a glass of red wine and sample burnt-chocolate gelato.

COPABANANA

4000 Spruce St., 215-382-1330, copabanana.com

west phila/university city/southwest philly

This student-oriented, Philly-run shop has half-off margaritas all day Monday.

DriNker’s West

3900 Chestnut St., 215-397-4693, drinkersphilly.com

DOCk street BreWiNg CO. 701 S. 50th St., 215-726-2337, dockstreetbeer.com

NeW DeCk tAverN

3408 Sansom St., 215-386-4600, newdecktavern.com

The ivy-covered walls of New Deck house a pub where football fans watch sports while sipping Guinness and eating bangers and mash.

ReStAuRANtS + MARKetS

Beloved for its crispy pizzas and six varieties of beer on tap daily.

AByssiNiA

Fiume

When we crave Ethiopian and Eritrean food, we head straight for Abyssinia.

229 S. 45th St., myspace.com/fiume

229 S. 45th St., 215-387-2424

Out-of-this-world Eritrean fare, plus a backyard bar where all West Philly walks of life meet for beers after hours.

Fiume’s known for its city specials, amazing selection of whiskies and weekly bluegrass.

BOBBy’s Burger PALACe

LANDmArk AmeriCANA

Bobby Flay’s modern but casual restaurant has all the necessities of a burger joint with a twist, from sandwiches with chips on top and spiked milkshakes to a secret fry sauce.

501 S. 42nd St., 215-386-1999, desichaathouse.com

DAhLAk

DistritO

3333 Market St., 215-222-4500, landmarkamericana.com

With its outdoor bar, Landmark is a popular place on sunny afternoons.

LOCAL 44

4333 Spruce St., 215-222-2337, local44beerbar.com

58

The beer selection at this West Philly spot (18 on tap, with two hand pumps) is in a league of its own.

cityguide 2012 - 2013

3925 Walnut St., 215-387-0378, bobbysburgerpalace.com

4708 Baltimore Ave., 215-726-6464, dahlakrestaurant.com

Desi ChAAt hOuse

A pan-South Asian comfort food, chaat is an array of savory snackies and condiments sold from street carts across the subcontinent.

3945 Chestnut St., 215-222-1657, distritorestaurant.com

Named after a Lebanese flatbread sandwich, Manakeesh offers food that will convince guests they are in Beirut.

Fu-Wah Mini-Market

501 S. 45th St., 215-222-3699, marigoldkitchenbyob.com

West Philadelphians are positively evangelical about Fu-Wah’s tofu hoagies (banh mi).

Chef Robert Halpern proves his mettle with strong, vivid flavors rather than relying on “postmodern” cookery for every dish.

810 S. 47th St., 215-729-2993

261 S. 44th St., 215-620-1851

Those of you craving Honest Tom’s tacos no longer have to hunt down his traveling cart. kaFFa crossing

4423 Chestnut St., 215-386-0504, kaffacrossing.com

This café offers free WiFi access to breakfast and lunch patrons, plus an array of fair-trade coffee.

Lovers and MadMen

MarigoLd kitchen

MiLk & honey Market

4435 Baltimore Ave., 215-387-6455, milkandhoneymarket.com

This gourmet market sells local products from artisanal cheeses to — yes — honey.

Mizu

111 S. 40th St., 215-382-1745, mizusushibar.com

Mizu has all the classics and its own unique rolls to satisfy all sushi lovers cheaply.

28 S. 40th St., 215-243-9851, loversandmadmencoffee.com

pod

This coffeehouse offers espresso and French press coffee from Counter Culture.

Certainly there’s cheaper sushi just around the corner in University City, but where else would you get the outrageous décor, color-changing booths and sense of fun that Stephen Starr so vigilantly dispenses?

Manakeesh caFé Bakery 4420 Walnut St., 215-921-2135, manakeeshcafe.com

3636 Sansom St., 215-387-1803, podrestaurant.com

riMedio

4443 Spruce St., 215-222-9590, il-rimedio.com

Chef Dan Freeman has il rimedio for West Philadelphians craving northern Italian cuisine. soLeiL de Minuit

5148 Locust St., 215-220-8623

West Philly’s Soleil de Minuit is the only established Malian restaurant in Philly; highlights include entrées like tender lamb chops

c i t y pa p e r . n e t

west phila/university city/southwest philly

honest toM’s taco shop

the hoods

The hot-pink interior, VW-Beetle booth and wall of luchador wrestling masks should tip you off to the fun, frenetic vibe at Jose Garces’ West Philly Mexican small-plater.

59

and blackened whole tilapia. the hoods

Vientiane Café

4728 Baltimore Ave., 215-726-1095

west phila/university city/southwest philly

Locals flock to this compact BYOB for Laotian/ Vietnamese fresh spring rolls with a hint of mint and for Vientiane’s signature dessert: four tiny blue-edged dishes of coconut pudding.

White Dog Café

3420 Sansom St., 215-386-9224, whitedog.com

This long-running West Philly restaurant is a figurehead in the fair-trade, organic and sustainable business communities in Philadelphia.

MuSic the BloCkley 3801 Chestnut St., 215-222-1234, theblockley.com

This live music venue has a mix of jam bands, reggae and hip-hop.

4007 Chestnut St., 215-694-9719, 40streetair.blogspot.com

Shofuso is a traditional 17th-century Japanese tea house that doubles as a performing arts venue.

annenBerg Center for the PerforMing arts

slought founDation

airsPaCe

3680 Walnut St., 215-898-3910, pennpresents.org

CoMMunity eDuCation Center

3500 Lancaster Ave., 215-387-1911, cecarts.org

Curio theatre Co.

Featuring exhibitions and events focused on contemporary art and architecture that explore cultural conflicts and social activism.

4740 Baltimore Ave., 215-525-1350, curiotheatre.org

stuDio 34

Dhyana yoga

3945 Chestnut St., 215-222-9642, dhyana-yoga.com

Not just yoga by any means: Studio 34 hosts dance parties, art exhibits and workshops, too.

esther M. klein art gallery

Penn MuseuM

3600 Market St., 215-966-6188, kleinartgallery.org

3260 South St., 215-898-4000, penn.museum

international house

Houses an immense collection of culturalheritage artifacts.

3701 Chestnut St., 215-387-5125, ihousephilly.org

4522 Baltimore Ave., 215-387-3434, studio34yoga.com

SHOPPiNg

Danger Danger gallery

5013 Baltimore Ave., 215-386-1444, dangerdangergallery.com

the MarVelous!

4916 Baltimore Ave., 215-386-6110

elena’s soul lounge

4912 Baltimore Ave., 215-724-3043, elenassoul.com

A purveyor of records that’s perfect for the jazz junkie.

green line Café

the seConD Mile

4239 Baltimore Ave., 215-222-3431, greenlinecafe.com

214 S. 45th St., 215-662-1663, secondmilecenter.com

This coffeeshop hosts local performers, open mics, comedy, poetry and art shows.

urBan outfitters

110 S. 36th St., 215-387-6990, urbanoutfitters.com

Mann Center for the PerforMing arts

Vix eMPoriuM

5009 Baltimore Ave., 215-471-7700, vixemporium.com

5201 Parkside Ave., 215-546-7900, manncenter.org

MillCreek taVern

4200 Chester Ave., 215-222-1255

institute of ConteMPorary art

Handmade-goods boutique by local artists.

Emerging local groups perform regularly at this West Philly bar.

kelly Writers house

PARKS + Rec

PilaM

118 S. 36th St., 215-898-7108, icaphila.org 3805 Locust Walk, 215-746-7636, writing.upenn.edu/wh

3914 Spruce St., 201-452-0330, myspace.com/thepilam

Penn’s self-run center for writing hosts music performances, seminars and book readings.

The hippest Penn fraternity house of them all doubles as an occasional venue.

leonarD Pearlstein gallery

the rotunDa 4014 Walnut St., 215-573-3234, therotunda.org

toWer theater 19 S. 69th St., 610-352-2887, tower-theatre.com

WorlD Café liVe 3025 Walnut St., 215-222-1400, worldcafelive.com

ARtS + cuLtuRe

60

4017 Walnut St., 215-701-4627, slought.org

3215 Market St., 215-895-2548, drexel.edu/westphal/gallery

nextfaB stuDio

3711 Market St., 215-921-3649, nextfabstudio.com

PhilaDelPhia Zoo

3400 W. Girard Ave., 215-243-1100, philadelphiazoo.org.

Please touCh MuseuM

4231 Avenue of the Republic, 215-581-3181, pleasetouchmuseum.org

BartraM’s garDen

54th Street and Lindbergh Boulevard, 215-729-5281, bartramsgarden.org

Clark Park

4300 Chester Ave., 215-552-8186

DoCtor CyCles

3608 Lancaster Ave., 215-823-6780, doctorcycles.com

fenCing aCaDeMy of PhilaDelPhia 3519 Lancaster Ave., 215-382-0293, fap-fencing.com

firehouse BiCyCles

701 S. 50th St., 215-727-9692, firehousebicycles.com

neighBorhooD Bike Works

the a-sPaCe

saM Quinn gallery

4722 Baltimore Ave., 215-821-6877, the-aspace.org

4501 Spruce St., 267-408-5769, samquinn.com

3916 Locust Walk, 215-386-0316, neighborhoodbikeworks.org

An anarchist community space that hosts NORML meetings, lectures and children’s yoga.

shofuso

troPhy Bikes

cityguide 2012 - 2013

100 Horticulture Drive, 215-878-5097, shofuso.com

3131 Walnut St., 215-222-2020, trophybikes.com

University Square is home to cultural venues and public spaces that welcome a variety of people from campus and beyond. Catch a movie. See an art show.

Cheer for collegiate sports at their best.

Meet a group of friends or colleagues, or just grab a seat outside and take a break from your busy day.

manayunk/roxborough/ east falls

“Thanks to the owner’s unique taste and approach to arrangements, Falls Flowers is a sanctuary of beautiful plants you wouldn’t see anywhere else.”

photos by Neal Santos

— Naoko, 29, senior web developer

manayunk/ roxborough/ east falls technically still in the city.

SET ALONG PHILLY’S Schuylkill-bordering northwest quadrant, East Falls, Manayunk and Roxborough form a hilly triumvirate of traditionally blue-collar neighborhoods touched by two decades of gentrification. The area’s steep roads aren’t the best place to find yourself in a snowstorm, but they make a challenging course for the annual Philadelphia International Cycling Championship in late spring. Philadelphia University and former governor Ed Rendell both call leafy East Falls home, while Manayunk’s Main Street brims with boutique shops and interesting restaurants.

while you’re here …

• Catch cool breezes on Manayunk Brewery’s expansive, canal-side decks • Climb the Manayunk Wall and be grateful you’re not doing it on your bike • Furnish your pad with Three Potato Four’s funky finds from their monthly barn sales 62

CITYGUIDE 2012 - 2013

• Bring a spare butt (in case you dance yours off) to Bourbon Blue • Score a simple breakfast at Bob’s Diner, boasting scenic graveyard views

you should know …

Visit manayunk.com, roxborough.us or eastfallsdevelopment.org for specifics on each of these hoods. Fourth District City Council is represented

by Curtis Jones Jr. (215-686-3416).

explore …

BARS + CLUBS BOURBON BLUE

2 Rector St., 215-508-3360, bourbonblue.com

A little bit French Quarter, a dash of city sophistication and a heavy hand with the Hurricane pours characterize Sean Coyle’s Manayunk hangout.

JD MCGILLICUDDY’S

111 Cotton St., 215-930-0209, jdmcgillicuddys.com

McGillicuddy’s size and ambience offer something to make everyone in your party happy.

4365-67 Main St., 215-483-0444, jakesrestaurant.com

4100 Main St., 215-482-2666, madrivermanayunk.com

Bruce Cooper’s extensive menu is committed to local farmers and sustainable practices.

This location features a great heated outdoor deck overlooking the Schuylkill River.

uGly Moose

4120 Main St., 215-482-8220, manayunkbrewery.com

In addition to a full food menu, Manayunk Brewery features a variety of tasty house brews.

parKS + rec GoRGas paRk

Ridge and Hermitage streets, gorgaspark.com

Order Fried Mooserella or Duck Stickers at this kid-friendly Manayunk eatery.

huMan ZooM

whiRled peaCe

intoxx fitness

4321 Main St., 215-487-0489, whirledpeacefroyo.com

4159 Main St., 215-487-7433, humanzoom.com 123 Leverington Ave., 215-483-4030, intoxxfitness.com

A make-your-own frozen yogurt spot with other sweet desserts.

kendRiCk ReCReation CenteR

winnie’s leBus

pRetZel paRk

4266 Main St., 215-487-2663, lebusmanayunk.com

Winnie’s serves LeBus artisan breads in the morning, house specialties like “Mom’s Meatloaf” in the afternoon and dinner entrées paired with local brews in the evening.

5822 Ridge Ave., 215-685-2584, kendrickrec.org Silverwood and Cotton streets, manayunkdogpark.com

RowZone

4401 Main St., 215-482-0321, rowzone.com

manayunk/roxborough/east falls

Manayunk BReweRy and RestauRant

443 Shurs Lane, 215-482-2739, theuglymoose.com

Gently worn clothing for infants through preteens, plus a maternity section featuring high-end brands at not-so-high-end prices.

the hoods

Mad RiveR BaR & GRille

Jake’s and CoopeR’s wine BaR

sweat fitness

MUSic dawson stReet puB

100 Dawson St., 215-482-5677, dawsonstreetpub.com

reStaUrantS + MarKetS adoBe Café

4550 Mitchell St., 215-483-3947, adobecafephilly.com

Adobe’s got a good thing going — think inventive décor and menu items like steak tips with smoked jalapeño mayo.

ChaBaa thai BistRo

4371 Main St., 215-483-1979, chabaathai.com

We go here for one reason and one reason alone: The spiciest Thai dishes in the state. daiRyland iCe CReaM and ChoColates

4409 Main St., 215-482-6806

Sells cakes and chocolate-covered strawberries in addition to affordable ice-cream scoops. deRek’s RestauRant

4411 Main St., 215-483-9400, dereksrestaurant.com

Derek Davis recently reopened this noweponymous hot spot with a revamped menu and outdoor café seating. laxMi’s indian GRill

4425 Main St., 215-508-2120, laxmisindian.com

There are three ways to enjoy Manayunk’s only Indian restaurant: dine in, take out or delivery.

This Manayunk bar boasts an impressive beer list to complement the live music offered every Thursday, Friday and Saturday.

artS + cULtUre Main stReet MusiC

4444 Main St., 215-487-7732, myspace.com/mainstmusic

4151 Main St., 215-487-7100, sweatfitness.com

wissahiCkon valley

Henry Avenue and Lincoln Drive, 215-247-0417, fow.org

2nd Location Coming This Summer!

Look For Our New Restaurant Opening In East Falls

sChuylkill CenteR foR enviRonMental eduCation

8480 Hagys Mill Road, 215-482-7300, schuylkillcenter.org

staGeCRafteRs theatRe

8130 Germantown Ave., 215-247-8881, thestagecrafters.org

SHOppinG BenJaMin lovell

4305 Main St., 215-487-3747, blshoes.com

Top 5 Indian Restaurant, 2011 Philly Hot List

Super-stylish shoes for men and women, from all manner of brands — from UGG and Merrell to Cole Haan and Minnetonka. thRee potato fouR

376 Shurs Lane, Building A, 267-335-3633, threepotatofourshop.com

A carefully curated selection of home goods, gifts and trinkets, with a keen eye for graphic design. woRn yesteRday

4228 Main St., 215-482-3316, wornyesterday.com

BYOB Takeout

Dine-In Delivery

(215) 508-2120

4425 Main Street, Manayunk

www.LaxmisIndian.com c i t y pa p e r . n e t

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fairmount/art museum

“The intimate Paris Wine Bar is a Francophile’s dream come true. The quirky décor, great wine — all local and sustainable — and live piano makes you feel more like you’re on the Left Bank than the corner of Fairmount and 23rd.”

photos by Neal Santos

— Natalie, 37, GPhilly magazine editor

fairmount/art museum

where even the prison is a museum.

IF FAIRMOUNT HAD a coat of arms, it would probably be a pair of yoga pants between two golden retrievers rampant. The mostly residential neighborhood lies north of western Center City, bounded by Spring Garden to the south, Girard to the north, Fairmount Park to the west and, well, fuzziness to the east — the cutoff line seems to be slowly creeping from 19th Street to Broad Street, with part of that area technically known as Francisville. Landmarks like the Philadelphia Museum of Art, Barnes Foundation and Eastern State Penitentiary draw tourists and double-decker buses.

while you’re here …

• In fine weather, The Belgian Café’s outdoor tables are the place for Euro brews and moules frites • Tour Eastern State Penitentiary, a crumbling (not really) castle looming over Fairmount Avenue • Sip a classic cocktail at London Grill and ask about the resident ghost 64

CITYGUIDE 2012 - 2013

• Go biking on Kelly Drive and practice yelling “on your left!” to slowpoke pedestrians • Pack into the Art Museum like a sardine on pay-what-you-wish day (the first Sunday of every month)

you should know …

Visit the Fairmount Community Development Corp.’s website (fairmountcdc.org) to get involved with neighborhood happenings. The Fifth District City Councilman is Darrell Clarke (215-686-3442).

explore …

BARS + CLUBS THE BELGIAN CAFÉ

2047 Green St., 215-235-3500, thebelgiancafe.com

There are more than 200 beers by the bottle, and drafts come in small glasses as well as pints.

BISHOP’S COLLAR

2349 Fairmount Ave., 215-765-1616, thecollar.us

A lively Fairmount bar named after the expression for a poorly poured pint of Guinness.

Known for their excellent cocktails.

Bridgid’s

2301 Fairmount Ave., 215-978-4545, londongrill.com

An idiosyncratic neighborhood tappy.

A friendly neighborhood institution, with a recently added sister venue right next door.

Café L’auBe

1639 Wallace St., 215-235-2720, cafelaube.com

ryBread

2319 Fairmount Ave., 215-769-0603, rybreadcafe.com

Features gourmet sandwiches and paninis. saBrina’s ii

Micro-batch-roasted coffee and crepes.

1804 Callowhill St., 215-636-9061, sabrinascafe.com

La CaLaCa feLiz

One challah French toast special will be enough for the table. Just take our word for it.

Contemporary Mexican cuisine.

artS + cULtUre

2321 Fairmount Ave., 215-787-9930, lacalacafeliz.com

era

2743 Poplar St., 215-769-7008, theerabar.com

Super-cheap Ethiopian food? All the way up here? ... Don’t ask questions.

JaCk’s firehouse

2130 Fairmount Ave., 215-232-9000, jacksfirehouse.com

Lemon hiLL

747 N. 25th St., 215-232-2299, lemonhillphilly.com

aCademy of naturaL sCienCes

1900 Ben Franklin Parkway, 215-299-1000, ansp.org

the Barnes foundation

2025 Ben Franklin Pkwy., 215-278-7000, barnesfoundation.org

See Art, p. 30. eastern state Penitentiary 2027 Fairmount Ave., 215-236-3300, easternstate.org

frankLin institute

222 N. 20th St., 215-448-1200, fi.edu

fairmount/art museum

reStaUrantS + MarKetS

the hoods

726 N. 24th St., 215-232-3232, bridgids.com

London griLL + Paris Wine Bar

PhiLadeLPhia museum of art

2600 Ben Franklin Parkway,215-763-8100, philamuseum.org

See Art, p. 30.

parKS + rec fairmount Park

215-988-9334, fairmountpark.org

FRANCISVILLE’S LOCAL SPOT Now serving, delicious food, art, cocktails and draft beer

LIVE MUSIC AND DAILY DRINK SPECIALS. Perfect Place for Private Parties and Gatherings

COME FLY WITH US!

“Like” us Facebook.com/FLYPHL 1841 Poplar Philadelphia, PA 19130 215-235-2525 c i t y pa p e r . n e t

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mount airy/chestnut hill/ germantown

I’ve been coming to Bredenbeck’s Bakery & Ice Cream Parlor since I was little. I love their cookies, decorative cupcakes and pies.”

photos by Neal Santos

—Jared, 25, fashion and lifestyle journalist

mount airy/ chestnut hill/ germantown

over the river and through the woods.

THOUGH JUST A SHORT regional rail trip off the grid, Chestnut Hill, Mount Airy and Germantown represent a charming, verdant respite from the urban grind while remaining part of the city. The three hoods are bounded by Stenton Avenue on the east and Wissahickon Creek on the west, and centered on Germantown Avenue. Chestnut Hill begins at the northern tip-top of city limits and runs down to Cresheim Valley Road; Mount Airy picks up where Chestnut Hill leaves off, extending to Washington Lane; and Germantown brings us on home at Wister Avenue. Tree-lined streets, lush parks, backyards with actual grass, plus handy proximity to the expansive Wissahickon Valley Trail make this one of Philly’s greenest areas.

while you’re here …

• Stop in for a pint and sandwich at Chestnut Hill institution McNally’s Tavern 66

CITYGUIDE 2012 - 2013

• Pack up the little ones for a little playtime at The Little Treehouse

• Build a bookcase at The Furniture Workshop • Go back to nature on the Wissahickon Valley Trail • Join Weavers Way Co-op for access to great whole foods at competitive prices

you should know …

City Councilwoman Cindy Bass currently represents the Eighth District (215-686-3424); the Germantown Avenue Coalition (gtownave.com) promotes businesses and events along the Ave in all three neighborhoods.

explore …

BARS + CLUBS EARTH BREAD + BREWERY

7136 Germantown Ave., 215-242-MOON, earthbreadbrewery.com

Enough kettles and urns to serve up a changing roster of four housemade beers at a time.

McNally’s TaverN

8634 Germantown Ave., 215-247-9736, mcnallystavern.com

The WiNe Thief

7152 Germantown Ave., 215-242-6700, winethiefbistro.com

reStaUrantS + MarKetS

8609 Germantown Ave., 267-335-3912, micarestaurant.com

Mica ranked among GQ critic Alan Richman’s 2012 “10 Best New Restaurants in America.�

Nile cafĂŠ

6008 Germantown Ave., 215-843-6453

Nile CafÊ offers a big selection of vegan and vegetarian options — from sandwiches and wraps to dairy-free desserts.

TiffiN

7105 Emlen St., 215-242-3656, tiffin.com

cake

8501 Germantown Ave., 215-247-6887, cakeofchestnuthill.com

Dessert in what once was a floral conservatory. high PoiNT cafĂŠ

602 Carpenter Lane, 215-849-5153, highpointcafe.us.com

High Point is the social hub of “West Mount Airy,� and is famous for its espresso and pastries. iNfusioN: a coffee aNd Tea gallery 7133 Germantown Ave., 215-248-1718, infusioncoffeeandtea.com

Coffee, tea, poetry readings and art exhibits are

This Mount Airy Tiffin satellite delivers perfectly proportioned boxed lunches and dinners to Philadelphia’s hungry, curry-craving work force.

Trolley car diNer

7619 Germantown Ave., 215-753-1500, trolleycardiner.com

Leave it to the Trolley to craft fluffy, gooey, perfectly cooked omelettes.

Weavers Way co-oP

559 Carpenter Lane and 8424 Germantown Ave., 215-843-2350, weaversway.coop

These two neighboring locations of Weavers Way Co-op offer fresh, organic produce and an abundance of other grocery items, with a discount for members.

MUSic The MerMaid iNN

7673 Winston Road, 215-247-9797, themermaidinn.net

mount airy/chestnut hill/germantown

Continental comfort food and an “extensive, inexpensive� wine list.

Mica

the hoods

Home of the infamously huge Schmitter “Big League� sandwich. Show up ravenous.

all part of the scene at the mellow InFusion.

Mostly local acts play nearly every night of the week.

Coming in

May 2013....

City PaPer’s annual

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The elaborate simplicity of restaurant bread A pocket guide to Philly farmers markets

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Featuring philadelphia’s most entertaining, current and inFormed Food blog, ;3/: B7193B! To advertise in this annual specialty publication, contact your account manager or call 215-735-8444.

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ticket citypaper.net/mealticket

c i t y pa p e r . n e t

67

the hoods

ARtS + cuLtuRe

ence fiction, etc.

Mount Airy Art GArAGe

hideAwAy Music

11 W. Mount Airy Ave., 215-242-5074, mtairyartgarage.org

mount airy/chestnut hill/germantown

Besides its permanent gallery/exhibition space, MAAG rents out studios and hosts art classes. the Quintessence theAtre Group At sedGwick theAter

7137 Germantown Ave., 215-240-6055, quintessencetheatre.org

This repertory company is dedicated to putting on classic plays all year long. woodMere Art MuseuM

9201 Germantown Ave., 215-247-0476, woodmereartmuseum.org

This ginormous Victorian mansion hosts hands-on workshops and some surprisingly daring painting exhibitions.

SHOPPiNg BiG Blue MArBle Bookstore 551 Carpenter Lane, 215-844-1870, bigbluemarblebooks.com

Independently owned, the Marble caters to niches: kids books, enviro bibles, feminist sci-

8612 Germantown Ave., 215-248-4434

A friendly place to buy used records. wAlk A crooked Mile Books 7423 Devon St., 215-242-0854, walkacrookedmilebooks.com

Housed in the Victorian Mount Airy train station, this nook boasts a collection of over 80,000 new, used and rare reads. wistAriA VintAGe

6375 Germantown Ave., 215-789-9953, wistariavintage.com

For those who love the hunt, this is definitely a vintage boutique worth exploring. You won’t find torn T’s or a pair of grandaddy plaid pants here; think style.

PARKS + Rec Morris ArBoretuM

100 E. Northwestern Ave., 215-247-5777, morrisarboretum.org

PA’s official arboretum, Morris covers over 92 acres filled with lush gardens and offers tons of classes, tours and lectures.

philly electric wheels

7102 Germantown Ave., 215-821-9266, phillyew.com

Need another way to wheel? This store sells efficient electric bikes. wissAhickon cyclery

7837 Germantown Ave., 215-248-2829, wiss-cycles.com

These folks are serious about their bikes, and can help anyone from the novice to the expert. Repairs and custom-builds.

Mort Brooks Farm at Awbury Arboretum photo by Dave Tavani

Chestnut Hill

8424 Germantown Avenue

Visit our hot bar for food that’s fast, fresh and famously delicious.

Mt. Airy

Where Does Your Food Come From?

At Weavers Way, you know where. Milk, bread, cheese, meat, produce— locally grown, locally raised and locally made in Lancaster, Montgomery and Chester Counties—and right here in Philadelphia.

We support local because we are local—owned by the people who shop in our stores.

At Weavers Way, we take local seriously.

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cityguide 2012 - 2013

559 Carpenter Lane

Newly renovated and featuring one of the largest bulk departments in the region!

Across the Way 610 Carpenter Lane

Our newest location, across from our Mt. Airy store, features our expanded natural Wellness and Pet products departments.

Community-owned food markets open to the public.

www.weaversway.coop

northern liberties

“The Piazza at Schmidts is a central location and the place to be if you’re visiting Northern Liberties — there’s always something going on there.”

photos by Neal Santos

— Eric, 42, and Chris, 35, pharmaceutical researchers

northern liberties

and links to your First District City Councilman, Mark Squilla (215-686-3458).

welcome to the nouveau niche.

explore …

FIRST PIONEERED in the ’80s by artists in search of inexpensive studio space,

700 CLUB

Northern Liberties may have the most diverse housing stock in Philadelphia. Situated north of Old City, NoLibs extends roughly to Girard Avenue to the north, Spring Garden to the south, Sixth Street to the west and the Delaware River to the east. Warehouses and former factories are now lofts, and recent construction, like the huge Piazza at Schmidts, has a distinctly modern feel. Bike around this tightly packed ’hood to avoid Second Street traffic jams and parking vultures.

while you’re here …

• Pretend you’re 21 all over again with a sweaty dance party upstairs at the 700 Club • Run around with the kids and dogs at Liberty Lands Park • BYO beach chair to watch a game on the giant screen at the Piazza at Schmidts • Find out what homemade scrapple tastes like at Café Estelle (hint: magic unicorns)

you should know …

Check out neighborhood message board northernliberties.org for FAQs, local gossip

BARS + CLUBS 700 N. Second St., 215-413-3181

Climb the steps for an unusual dancefloor atmosphere, complete with DJ booth/bathtub.

ABBAYE

637 N. Third St., 215-627-6711

The vibe here is homey and welcoming; so, too, are its kindly bartenders.

BLIND PIG

702 N. Second St., 267-639-4565, blindpigphilly.com

This casual, neighborhood-y spot is pouring eight beers on tap (most of the time) and cracking upward of 20 brews in cans behind the bar to go along with its pubby menu.

C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

69

Delilah’s

silk city

Probably the biggest and fanciest strip club in town.

Updated diner food with live music and DJs that pack in the tight-pantsed crowd almost uncomfortably tightly on the weekends.

the hoods

100 Spring Garden St., 215-625-2800, delilahs.com

Rebel Rock baR

northern liberties

100 Spring Garden St., 215-925-1606, rebelphiladelphia.com

The only place in Philly where you can get a table that has its own customizable tap.

R.U.b.a. hall

414 Green St., 215-627-9831

Join the Russian Ukrainian Boating Association (aka R.U.B.A.) for cheap beer, free pool and after-hours hours.

GUnneRs RUn

1001 N. Second St., 215-923-4600, gunnersrun.com.

435 Spring Garden St., 215-592-8838, silkcityphilly.com

stanDaRD tap

901 N. Second St., 215-238-0630, standardtap.com

A founding father of Philly’s beer scene, Standard Tap has been changing its huge chalkboard menus of all-local, all-draft beers for more than 15 years.

Wine o

447 Poplar St., 215-925-0999, wineophilly.com

Zee baR

100 Spring Garden St., 215-922-2994, zee-bar.com

This restaurant at the Piazza has vegetarian, gluten-free and vegan menu options.

After-hours boozing, if you’ve got the cash.

n. 3RD

ReStAuRANtS + MARKetS

801 N. Third St., 215-413-3666, norththird.com

Serving up local brews and a killer brunch that’s worth the wait.

Protecting what matters

the most takes innovative solutions that work as hard as you do.

For over 100 years, VIST Insurance has offered hundreds of companies a full line of insurance products that helped reduce costs and maximize the value of their employee benefits plans. Start protecting your people and profits today.

1 shot coffee

217 W. George St., 215-627-1620, 1shotcoffee.wordpress.com

This bi-level coffeehouse has great decor and is comfy for work and reading. a fUll plate cafe

1090 N. Bodine St., 215-627-4068, afullplate.com

For Southern cooking, this has brunch options that are surprisingly health-conscious and/or vegetarian. (But get the chicken and waffles.) baR feRDinanD

1030 N. Second St., 215-923-1313, barferdinand.com

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challenging

breeze!

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VIST INSURANCE 1767 Sentry Parkway West, Suite 210 Blue Bell, PA 19422 215.274.7400 | www.VISTfc.com VIST Insurance is a licensed Pennsylvania insurance agency.

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cityguide 2012 - 2013

Visit us at www.apex-is.com or call us at (856) 452-0502

Dmitri Chimes, who owns long-successful restaurants in Queen Village and Fitler Square, is now in NoLibs with Dmitri’s No. 3.

Brown Betty Dessert Boutique

el Camino real

This mother-daughter operation churns out killer cupcakes, dreamy pies and a host of other thigh-thickening treats.

The restaurant celebrates food from both sides of the Tex-Mex border with two separate but equally hunger-inducing menus on offer.

CafĂŠ estelle

garDen Variety

722 N. Second St., 215-629-0999, brownbettydesserts.com

the hoods

The food here is straight, beautifully crafted tapas — hot and cold salads, bocadillos and pinchos.

1040 N. Second St., 215-925-1110, bbqburritobar.com

northern liberties

444 N. Fourth St., 215-925-5080, cafeestelle.com

900 N. Second St., gardenvarietyphiladelphia.com

This open-air market hosts Philly’s La Copine brunch cart, the Dapper Dog and more.

Cantina Dos segunDos

931 N. Second St., 215-629-0500, www.cantinadossegundos.com

honey’s sit ‘n eat

the fooDery

800 N. Fourth St., 215-925-1150

paesanosphillystyle.com

This quintessential, always-packed NoLibs brunch spot serves Jewish home cooking with a sweet Southern drawl.

Incredible, cheap and, most importantly, huge sandwiches.

Koo Zee Doo

1001 N. Second St., 215-964-9009, pytphilly.com

1033 N. Second St., 267-239-5775, darlingsdiner.com

Traditional Portuguese recipes/ingredients abound at this BYO.

Drinking an entire adult milkshake at this lively burger joint/dance party will put you to sleep long before you meet any pretty young things.

Dmitri’s

Paesano’s

the ranDom tea room

837 N. Second St., 215-238-6077, fooderybeer.com

The roomier northern outpost of Pine Street’s iconic beer bottle shop; choose from a jawdropping array of domestic and imported beer, available by the bottle, six pack or mixed six.

Darling’s Diner

944 N. Second St., 215-592-4550

614 N. Second St., 215-923-8080, koozeedoo.com

152 W. Girard Ave., 215-886-9556,

HYPERION BANK Main Street NOT Wall Street Come home to real community banking where you’ll always find uncompromising personal service and a full array of personal and business banking products including online banking and bill payment. And above all the feeling that your business is valued.

HyperionBank.com 215-789-4200

2nd & Girard Philadelphia, PA 19123

OPEN Monday-Friday, 9am to 6pm Saturday, 10am to 2pm

P.y.t.

713 N. Fourth St., 267-639-2442,

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637 N. 3rd Street . PHILADELPHIA EQUAL HOUSING

LENDER

Member FDIC

215-627-6711

c i t y pa p e r . n e t

71

therandomtearoom.com the hoods

Tea aficionados and casual consumers of hot drinks alike will delight in Random Tea Room’s selection of artisanal teas and housemade herbal infusions.

hyPeRion bank

ARtS + cuLtuRe

A community bank in a beautifully restored historical building, built in 1871 as the HQ of the Eighth National Bank.

PuRe gold galleRy

Rustica Pizza

1050 N. Hancock St., puregoldgallery. wordpress.com

While you end up paying more than you would at other shops, Rustica’s superior ingredients form one magnificent chicken cheesesteak.

PRojects galleRy

903 N. Second St., 215-627-1393

northern liberties

A legendary former jazz club, resurrected as a Tex-Mex bar with music of all sorts.

sPRing gaRden MaRket

400 Spring Garden St., 215-928-1288

You’ll see it all in these aisles — mock duck and abalone, insta-noodle bowls, pre-packed

Vincent Michael galleRy

R.e.load bags

1050 N. Hancock St., Suite 63, 215-399-1580, vincentmichael.com

SHOPPiNg

Organic cotton tees, carefully selected vintage pieces and plenty of socially conscious housewares and accessories mingle among pieces by designers such as Mel en Stel, Rich & Skinny and Ben Sherman at this eco-friendly boutique for guys and dolls. aRchitectuRal antiques exchange 715 N. Second St., 215-922-3669, architecturalantiques.com

A three-floor wonderland of extremely old-school furniture, iron work, stained glass, doors, full wooden pub bars and more.

710 W. Girard Ave., 215-922-1297, tiffinstore.com

Delicious Indian food as takeout, sit-down or delivery, specializing in the long-term boxlunch delivery service in Indian cities that gives Tiffin its name. tRios tRattoRia

342 W. Girard Ave., 215-627-1000, newtriostrattoria.com

623 N. Second St., 215-238-1557, artstarphilly.com

847 N. Third St., 267-324-3348, ortliebslounge.com cityguide 2012 - 2013

PARKS + Rec body aRts gyM

926 N. Second St., 267-773-7871, bodyartsgym.com

libeRty lands PaRk

926 N. American St., 215-627-6562, nlna.org

A park with many well-manicured dogs, a playground and a movie night that goes all summer long.

noRth bowl

909 N. Second St., 215-238-2695, northbowlphilly.com

Where the well-dressed and thick-walleted go to bowl, booze and eat tots, mac & cheese and

707 N. Second St., 215-923-2992, chezbowwow.com

city PlanteR

oRtlieb’s

For a decade, R.E.Load has been making crazy-durable, crazy-stylish messenger bags.

Their custom applique work, while expensive, is some of the best in the country, and recognized as such by bikers all over.

chez bow wow

MuSic

Fans don’t seem to mind that the converted electric factory is sweaty and, save for a few seated sections, standing-room-only — bigname acts sound just as good without a chair.

608 N. Second St., 215-625-2987, reloadbags.com

If you can’t get enough of their jewelry, dresses, ceramics, playthings, menswear, art tees and baby clothing, this crafty haven also hosts a wicked annual craft bazaar — see festivals, p. 19.

The only one who deserves to be pampered more than you … is your dog. Chez Bow Wow specializes in hair cutting, teeth cleaning, nail clipping, gland expression and more.

421 N. Seventh St., 215-627-1332, livenation.com, electric factory.info

72

aRt staR

Entering this shop fills you with the smells of a freshly baked Margherita pizza, and that’s only the beginning.

electRic factoRy

1050 N. Hancock St., 267-455-0374, millesime.us

Modern furniture, home wares and chic clothing.

819 N. Second St., 215-667-8099, arcadiaboutique.com

tiffin

MillésiMé

629 N. Second St., 267-303-9652, projectsgallery.com

aRcadia boutique

dumplings, Mikawaya ice cream, bizarroworld Lotte candies … we could go on.

199 W. Girard Ave., 215-789-4200, hyperionbank.com

814 N. Fourth St., 215-627-6169, cityplanter.com

Heaven for urban gardeners who’re dreaming up big ideas in small spaces.

other bar snacks. (You’ll probably want to call ahead to reserve a lane on weekends.)

coloRs by PadMini

oRianna hill dog PaRk

906 N. Second St., 215-733-0330, padminidesign.com

A boutique stocked with linens, pillows, bedding and bags inspired by the owner’s travels to India.

707 N. Second St., oriannahill.org

sugaRhouse casino

1001 N. Delaware Ave., 877-477-3715, sugarhousecasino.com

Try your hand at slots, blackjack and more.

fishtown/kensington/ port richmond

“New City is indicative of this neighborhood’s atmosphere: Everyone — from new parents buying their first homes to the families who’ve lived here for generations — finds their niche and makes a mark.”

photos by Neal Santos

— El Roy Red, 30, waiter/burgeoning writer

fishtown/ kensington/port richmond artsy/fartsy.

THE OLD ’HOODS along the Delaware River are proud enough of their individual heritages to make the occasionally used mashup name “Port Fishington” slightly suspect. Nevertheless, the river wards of Port Richmond, Fishtown and Kensington do have much in common — affordable housing, old-school butchers, bakers and sausagemakers, the slight confusion of old-school residents at the huge influx of the youngand-broke creative class. Recent arrivals gather at Johnny Brenda’s or Rocket Cat; old heads might head off to Jovan’s for a serving of goulash big enough to feed a family of four. Choose your own adventure.

while you’re here …

• Appreciate human-powered sculpture (or make one yourself) at the annual Kensington Kinetic Sculpture Derby (see p. 18)

• Savor square, sauce-on-top pizza pies from Santucci’s

• Get beautiful food at Greensgrow’s Saturday farmers market • Tour Philadelphia Brewing Co. and try to choose a favorite from their local lineup

you should know …

The New Kensington Community Development Corp. (nkcdc.org) stays on top of zoning, housing counseling and community arts. Current Councilpeople are Mark Squilla, First District (215-6863458); Bobby Henon, Sixth (215-686-3444); and Darrell Clarke, Fifth (215-686-3442).

explore …

BARS + CLUBS ATLANTIS: THE LOST BAR

2442 Frankford Ave., 215-739-4929

The prices at Atlantis make the bar attractive to Fishtown’s cash-poor but taste-rich artistic types.

Aquariums behind the bar and pool tables are also pluses.

C I T Y PA P E R . N E T

73

Barcade

kraFTwork

Dozens of craft brews + dozens of vintage arcade games = no laundry money. Don’t worry — there’s a change machine.

A serious beer bar with a lineup of 24 all-draft craft beers. A taut menu is laid out like blueprints, in keeping with the industrial theme.

Byrne’s Tavern

MeMphIs TaprooM

fishtown/kensington/port richmond

the hoods

1114 Frankford Ave., 215-634-4400, barcadephiladelphia.com

3301 Richmond St., 215-634-8707, byrnestavern.net

The wings, God help us; get the wings.

The el Bar

1356 N. Front St., 215-634-6430

The Market-Frankford line rumbles overhead as bands and pool leagues play and cats wander through the backyard space.

FrankFord hall

1210 Frankford Ave., 215-634-3338, frankfordhall.com

This Stephen Starr beer hall also provides great beer-drinker fare, from warm Bavarian pretzels to an assortment of German sausages.

InTersTaTe draFT house

1235 E. Palmer St., 267-455-0045, interstatedrafthouse.com

An outdoor patio, a veg-friendly menu and an all-American draft list.

541 E. Girard Ave., 215-739-1700, kraftworkbar.com

2331 E. Cumberland St., 215-425-4460, memphistaproom.com

Plentiful craft brews and crazy-good bar food (fried pickles). When it’s warm, their outdoor space hosts a semi-permanent food truck selling fancy hot dogs and beer by the can. porT rIchMond pour house 2253 East Clearfield St., portrichmondpourhouse.com

phIladelphIa BrewIng co.

2439 Amber St., 215-427-2739, philadelphiabrewing.com

PBC and Yards are the two big Philly breweries — both are great, but this one is the source of the area’s omnipresent Kenzinger trucks! yards BrewIng coMpany

901 N. Delaware Ave., 215-634-2600, yardsbrewing.com

ReStAuRANtS + MARKetS coFFee house Too

lIBerTy choIce

1947 N. Front St., 215-423-4500

The location is a little shady, but this coffee bar with a vast, Middle Eastern-inspired menu and stellar falafel is a revelation. lITTle BaBy’s Ice creaM

2311 Frankford Ave., littlebabysicecream.com

Until recently, Little Baby’s interesting flavor combos (Earl Grey-Sriracha, Balsalmic Banana) were available via tricycles; their brickand-mortar spot opened this summer.

MarIan’s Bakery

2615 E. Allegheny Ave., 215-634-4579

Since 1959, Port Richmond’s Polish population has been lining up outside Marian’s for a hit of the sweet stuff: cheese babka and makowiec, a poppyseed swirl cake rolled up with or without walnuts.

MIlkcraTe caFé

400 E. Girard Ave., 267-909-8348, milkcratecafe.com

This spot cranks out on-point breakfast fare and doubles as a record store to boot.

Modo MIo

161 W. Girard Ave., 215-203-8707, modomiorestaurant.com

This 40-seater has a true-to-it approach to Italian cuisine.

2514 E. York St., 267-324-5888, coffeehouseco.com

Limited seating, but complimentary mimosas make the wait divine. ekTa IndIan cuIsIne

250 E. Girard Ave., 215-426-2277, ektaindianrestaurant.com

The Indian fare at Ekta is amazing, even if the storefront isn’t much to look at. greensgrow FarM

2501 E. Cumberland St., 215-427-2702, greensgrow.org

A locavore’s dream, Greensgrow sells plants in the spring, is a one-stop farmers market in peak season and has CSA shares year-round. hInge caFé

2652 E. Somerset St., 215-425-6614, hingecafe.com

Ida Mae’s BruncherIe

2302 E. Norris St., 267-259-6493, idamaes.com

Standard syrupy fare with an emphasis on fresh local produce.

Jovan’s place

2327 E. York St., 215-634-3330, jovansplace.com

Both food and hospitality at this Slavic spot are honest, generous and rustic. leoTah’s place coFFeehouse

2033 E. York St., 267-519-9031, leotahsplace.com 74

cityguide 2012 - 2013

rockeT caT caFé

2001 Frankford Ave., 215-739-4526

The Thai iced coffee is a godsend for those who’ve built up a caffeine tolerance. sanTuccI’s orIgInal square pIzza

2313 E. Venango St., 215-288-2900, santuccis.com

Make the trek for these iconic sauce-on-top, cheese-on-the-bottom right-angled pies. skeTch

413 E. Girard Ave., 215-634-3466, sketch-burger.com

Figure-watchers, grab a turkey or vegan burger.

Everyone else, you can get truffle butter as

but more ear gauges than tight pants.

Tacconelli’s Pizzeria

15 W. Girard Ave., 215-739-5577, mroomphilly.com

2604 E. Somerset St., 215-425-4983, tacconellispizzeria.com

Tiffin

712 W. Girard Ave., 215-925-0770, tiffin.com

Munish Narula’s wildly popular Indian/Pakistani BYO. Tiffin Etc., next door, has cheaper street-food interpretations.

o’reilly’s

PorT richMond BooKs

3037 Richmond St., 215-425-3385, portrichmondbooks.com

2672 Coral St., 215-425-0413

Epic in scale and variety.

The smallish bar sometimes hosts punk and hardcore shows.

resTore

artS + cULtUre

An architectural salvage retail shop that carries everything from doors and window frames to cast-iron floor vents and, yes, even kitchen sinks.

crane arTs

1400 N. American St., 215-232-3203, cranearts.com

See Art section, p. 30. fJord

2419 Frankford Ave., 215-837-2980, fjordspace.com

gravy sTudio

2212 Sepviva St., 267-825-7071, gravystudio.blogspot.com

liTTle Berlin

2430 Coral St., littleberlin.org

3016 E. Thompson St., 215-634-3474, re-store-online.com

parKS + rec Bicycle sTaBle

1420 Frankford Ave., 215-634-0633, bicyclestable.com

fishTown recreaTion cenTer 1202 E. Montgomery Ave., 215-685-9885

Jay’s Pedal Power BiKes

See Art section, p. 30.

512 E. Girard Ave., 215-425-5111, jayspedalpower.com

Mascher sPace co-oP

Penn TreaTy ParK

155 Cecil B. Moore Ave., mascherdance.com

fishtown/kensington/port richmond

Tacconelli’s pizzas are in such high demand that they require you to call and reserve dough at least a day in advance. Not kidding.

The M rooM

arms of Jack White and Conan O’Brien, just to name a few. the hoods

a topping. Contribute a construction-paper crayon drawing to the walls while you wait.

Delaware Avenue and Beach Street, penntreatypark.org

PhiladelPhia PhoTo arTs cenTer 1400 N. American St., 215-232-5678, philaphotoarts.org

MUSic The BarBary

951 Frankford Ave., 215-643-7400, facebook.com/thebarbary

At this bilevel Fishtown bar/venue, R5 Productions hosts all-ages acts and DJs with a silver curtain behind and mirror ball above.

Lots of young people in tight pants.

The fire

412 W. Girard Ave., 267-671-9298, iourecords.com/thefire

This firehouse neighbor has an intimate stage, booking mostly Philly acts. highwire gallery

2040 Frankford Ave., 215-426-2685, highwiregallery.com

An art gallery notable for booking tons of avant-garde and free-jazz shows after hours.

Johnny Brenda’s

1201 Frankford Ave., 215-739-9684, johhnybrendas.com

Well-respected national and local acts play this smallish room, a 19th-century theater.

Lots of tight pants on slightly older people.

Kung fu necKTie

PhiladelPhia sculPTure gyM 1834 Frankford Ave., 215-901-1933, philadelphiasculpturegym.com

A membership gets sculptors access to heavyduty welding, casting and wood-shaping equipment in this former auto-repair shop.

ProJecT Basho

1305 Germantown Ave., 215-238-0928, projectbasho.org

PTerodacTyl

3237 Amber St., 215-501-7158, pterodactylphiladelphia.org

A gallery and hot spot for art classes — from animal sculpture to food preservation. walKing fish TheaTre

2509 Frankford Ave., 215-427-WALK, bsomeday.org

SHOppinG circle ThrifT

2233 Frankford Ave., 215-423-1222, circlethrift.com

This friendly outpost of the thrift-shop network has furniture, books, records and clothing. diPinTo guiTars

1250 N. Front St., 215-291-4919, kungfunecktie.com

407 E. Girard Ave., 215-427-7805, dipintoguitars.com

Mostly punk-ish and indie acts; young people,

These custom-made babies can be seen on the c i t y pa p e r . n e t

75

the northeast

“The Grey Lodge is an excellent beer and whiskey bar, where the owner will regale you with quips and stories of his adventures in Northeast Philly.”

photos by Neal Santos

— Chris, 52, English teacher

the northeast let them eat buttercake.

THIS GIANT CHUNK of Philly bordered by the Delaware River, Adams Avenue, Bucks County and Montgomery County is great not only for its gooey buttercake, stellar diners and go-to hoagie joints, but for the pockets of greenery scattered throughout. Deciphering the often-confounding, open-O’d accents of the natives starts at the Mayfair Diner — use your server as a personal Rosetta Stone and go forth from there.

while you’re here …

• Starting at Haegele’s and ending at Mayfair Bakery, do a buttercake crawl • Feast your eyes upon the brewing, fermentation and bottling process at Philadelphia Distilling Co.

• Soak up some greenery at Pennypack Park • Hoof up to the Insectarium and learn a thing or two about our six-legged creepycrawly friends • Dance away bad luck at Friday the Firkinteenth at Grey Lodge Pub, held every Friday the 13th 76

CITYGUIDE 2012 - 2013

you should know …

Stay up to date on your Northeast news at neastphilly.com. If you choose to be a Neastie, you’ll be repped by current City Council members Bobby Henon, Sixth District (215-686-3444); Maria Quiñones-Sanchez, Seventh (215-686-3448); or Brian O’Neill, 10th (215-686-3422).

explore …

BARS + CLUBS CURRAN’S IRISH INN

6900 State Road, 215-331-8628, curransirishinn.com

This Irish-themed bar is best known for something ironically un-Irish: chicken wings, available in different temperatures and seasonings.

GREY LODGE PUB

6235 Frankford Ave., 215-856-3591, greylodge.com

The Grey Lodge has reclaimed Friday the 13th as a joyous celebration and renamed it Friday the Firkinteenth. A tradition since 1988, this event

takes place only a few times a year, so start marking your calendars for the next one.

MAkiMAn susHi

Expect to see Oktoberfest and otherwise Deutsch-inspired beers from local breweries on the 12-tap system, in addition to traditional German beers, at any given time.

The elusive Makiman rocks wicked sushi rolls in the shadows of CVS and Dunkin’ Donuts.

7324 Oxford Ave., 215-722-8800, makimanonline.com

MAyfAir BAkery

THree Monkeys CAfé

6447 Frankford Ave., 215-624-7878, mayfairbakery.com

Sidle up to the 1890s hand-carved bar, an antique oasis in a Northeast sea of neon.

Buttercake purists will approve of Mayfair Bakery’s classic, no-frills version — they’ve been putting junk in the Northeast’s trunk since 1965, and their recipes haven’t changed.

9645 James St., 215-637-6665, 3monkeyscafe.com

reStaUrantS + MarKetS AlBerT’s CAfé

MAyfAir Diner

7373 Frankford Ave., 215-624-4455, mayfairdiner.com

3180 Grant Ave., 215-673-7200, albertscafe.com

Albert’s serves classics like chicken marsala and hot roast beef, plus standard pub grub like mozz sticks and buffalo wings.

inseCTAriuM

8046 Frankford Ave., 215-335-9500, myinsectarium.com

Billed as Philadelphia’s only “all-bug museum,” the Insectarium hosts a variety of programs in the name of creepy-crawly education. pHilADelpHiA DisTilling Co.

12285 McNulty Road, Suite 105, 215-671-0346, philadelphiadistilling.com

Up past the Northeast Airport near the edge of town is the home of Philly’s burgeoning smallbatch spirits empire, where Bartram’s Bitters, Penn 1681 Rye Vodka, Vieux Carré Absinthe, Bluecoat American Dry Gin and their newest whistle-wetter Shine White Whiskey are made. ryerss MuseuM AnD liBrAry

7370 Central Ave., 215-685-0544, ryerssmuseum.org

BoBo’s sporTs BAr

Open since 1910, the Ryerss Museum serves as both a museum of the Ryerss family’s various collections of exotic art and furnishings and a public library.

6424 Castor Ave., 215-743-9900

Women referring to themselves as “Aunties” rule the grill at this authentic Korean barbecue joint, but their variety of spicy stir-fries, hot pots and kimchi will have you screaming “uncle!”

SHOppinG

CHiCkie’s & peTe’s

4010 Robbins Ave., 215-338-3060, chickiesandpetes.com

roosevelT MAll

The original location of Chickie’s and Pete’s features a menu of gut-busters like crab fries, chicken-cutlet parm and mussels marinara.

frAnklin Mills MAll

CHink’s sTeAks

6030 Torresdale Ave., 215-535-9405, chinksteaks.com

Chink’s serves up old-school cheesesteaks to locals and tourists willing to make the trek.

DATTilo’s DeliCATessen

8000 Horrocks St., 215-725-2020, dattilosdeli.com

Dattilo’s has long been the go-to hoagie joint for the Northeast lunch rush, but this Italian deli has even more if you’ve got the time. fink’s

4633 Princeton Ave., 215-335-2828, finkshoagies.com

Fink’s claim to fame is the Original Italian, made with cotechino (fresh pork sausage) and accented with Fink’s own olive spread. No wonder their tagline is “King of Gourmet Hoagies.”

HAegele’s BAkery

2329 Cottman Ave.

1455 Franklin Mills Circle, 215-632-1500, franklinmills.com

Mayfair Diner is a mainstay for Neasties — maybe it has something to do with the fact that it’s a BYOB.

pAT’s MusiC CenTer

sweeT luCy’s

Sells guitars, drum kits, DJ equipment and more.

At Northeast Philly’s Sweet Lucy’s Smokehouse, piggies are roasted in one of their three on-site hickory-wood smokers.

parKS + rec

7500 State Road, 215-331-3112, sweetlucys.com

wHiTe elepHAnT

7302 Frankford Ave., 215-708-0444, patsmusiccenter.com

BurHolMe pArk

Cottman and Central avenues

759 Huntingdon Pike, 215-663-1495, whiteelephant.us

fox CHAse fArM

White Elephant offers a three-course Thai lunch menu that’ll beat the fancy pants off your average Center City money pit.

norTHeAsT rACqueT CluB & fiTness CenTer

wiT or wiTouT

9970 Roosevelt Blvd., 215-437-1681, witorwitout.com

John Tumolo entered the cheesesteak fray with this Wit or Witout location in Northeast Philly.

4164 Barnett St., 215-624-0117

You should call ahead to guarantee a slab of buttercake from this famous bakery tucked away in a quaint neighborhood street. Accord-

the northeast

7980 Oxford Ave., 215-437-1939, hopangelbrauhaus.blogspot.com

This museum’s historic claim was once: “Where the Civil War comes alive.” Its collection — including the handcuffs John Wilkes Booth planned to use to kidnap President Lincoln and a strip of the dying President’s bloodstained pillowcase — backs it up.

the hoods

Hop Angel BrAuHAus

ing to some, the crunchier crust makes for much cleaner fingers, but you’ll have to try it yourself to decide.

artS + cULtUre grAnD ArMy of THe repuBliC MuseuM 4278 Griscom St., 215-289-6484, garmuslib.org

8500 Pine Road, 215-728-7900, foxchasefarm.org

Krewstown Road and Grant Avenue, 215-671-9220, northeastracquet.com

pennypACk pArk

Welsh Road and Cresco Avenue, 215-574-2100, pennypackpark.com

vogT reCreATion CenTer

Cottage Street and Unruh Avenue, 215-685-8753, vogtrec.com

wissinoMing pArk

East Cheltenham Road and Frankford Avenue, 215-685-1498 c i t y pa p e r . n e t

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north philly

“People think of North Philly as an urban wasteland of sorts, but, like this graffiti wall at Sixth and Cecil B. Moore, it’s uniquely artistic in a way that only the hood can be. That’s something I find really special.”

photos by Neal Santos

— Max, 21, student/freelance journalist

north philly

the diamonds and the rough.

“NORTH PHILLY” is an umbrella term usually used by people who don’t live in one of its many sub-neighborhoods to refer to an immense, ill-defined central swath of the city from Girard Avenue up to the city limits in the north, bordered by Kensington in the east and West Philly and Germantown in the west. That’s one name for an area hundreds of times bigger than Old City or the Gayborhood. It’s such a blank because, frankly, many of North Philly’s central sub-areas, colloquially known as the Badlands, are stricken by blight, poverty and crime, and should be approached by newbies with caution. But writing off North Philly means missing out on the best Korean, Latin and soul food in the city — and some of the only decent bagels. Olney and Oak Lane, whose recent problems with blight are being countered by active community organizations, are northmost; Temple University is near the bottom.

while you’re here …

• Examine the wild array of specimens at the Wagner Free Institute of Science • Hit Kim’s or Seorabol for authentic Korean BBQ • Get your Cuban/Columbian grub on at Tierra Colombiana 78

CITYGUIDE 2012 - 2013

you should know …

In lower, central areas (including Temple), call Fifth District Councilman Darrell Clarke (215-6863442). Olney/Oak Lane’s Ninth District is Marian Tasco (215-686-3454); the west-ish Seventh District is María Quiñones-Sánchez (215-686-3448).

explore …

RESTAURANTS + BARS EL BOHIO

2746 N. Fifth St., 215-425-5991

A family-owned eatery with authentic Puerto Rican specialties like tostones and morcilla.

CAFÉ SOHO

468 W. Cheltenham Ave., 215-224-6800

There’s a crack-like quality to the Korean fried chicken at Café Soho, worth the hike to East Oak Lane and the near half-hour wait for the wings.

FREDDY & TONY’S

201 W. Allegheny Ave., 215-634-3889

Freddy & Tony’s is a longtime favorite within the city’s Puerto Rican community.

bakery is the only place to get truly great bagels.

Green Soul

5734 Old Second St., 215-924-3355, philadelphiakoreanrestaurant.com

Soul food + organic food = collards smoothie.

ISla Verde

KIm’S reStaurant

tIerra ColomBIana

4535 N. Fifth St., 215-324-6086, tierracolombianaonline.com

artS + cULtUre

5955 N. Fifth St., 215-927-4550

FluXSPaCe

Don’t wear anything dry-clean-only to Kim’s or Seorabol; everything that enters leaves smelling like (delicious) Korean BBQ.

This arts collective doesn’t put on events much anymore, but when they do, they’re fun.

PorKy’S PoInt

3824 N. Fifth St., 215-221-6243

The specialty here is the simple, satisfying Puerto Rican roast pork sandwich. relISh

7152 Ogontz Ave., 215-276-0170, relishphiladelphia.com

The food of the South, way, way up North. rolInGS BaKery

7847 Montgomery Ave., 215-635-5524

Though slightly over the border, this kosher

north philly

2725 N. American St., 215-426-3600

the hoods

7169 Ogontz Ave., 215-924-4200, greensoulliving.com

SeoraBol

3000 N. Hope St., thefluxspace.org

new Freedom theatre

1346 N. Broad St., 215-765-2793, freedomtheatre.org

waGner Free InStItute oF SCIenCe

lIaCouraS Center

1700 W. Montgomery Ave., 215-763-6529, wagnerfreeinstitute.org

Pearl theater at aVenue north

SHOppinG

1776 N. Broad St., 1-800-298-4200, liacourascenter.com 1600 N. Broad St., 215-763-7700

raICeS CulturaleS latInoamerICanaS 1417 N. Second St., 215-425-1390, raicesculturales.org

taller PuertorrIqueño

2721 N. Fifth St., 215-426-3311, tallerpr.org

thanks for reading

City paper

BIlenKy CyCle worKS

5319 N. Second St., 215-329-4744, bilenky.com

This custom framebuilding shop holds its Junkyard Cyclocross each December, with an obstacle course made of old tires, cars and scrap metal.

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NEWS | Feeling tased and confused

MOVIES | A gleeful destruction to behold ✚ FOOD | Ulivo shows style

30 YEARS OF INDEPENDENT JOURNALISM

Jan. 12 - Jan 18, 2012 #1389 |

➤

ERACE | Sbraga can win them all

DENVIR | Corbett’s quiet business bailout ✚ BRADY | 2011’s top jazz

30 YEARS OF INDEPENDENT JOURNALISM

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Dec. 15 - Dec. 21, 2011 #1385 |

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SECOND SEASON ARTS

THE MILLION TO ONE SHOT How photographer Zoe Strauss went from the shadows of I-95 to the walls of the Art Museum.

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FOOD | A square pizza star

ARTS | Up all night ✚ NEWS | A landlord dictatorship

30 YEARS OF INDEPENDENT JOURNALISM

Sept. 22 - Sept. 28, 2011 #1373 |

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MEET SWEET

MUSIC MAKER, COOKIE BAKER AND THIS WEEKEND’S

MEG BAIRD, LANTERN, ANDREW LIPKE, LADY AND THE LOWDOWN ON ALL THE BIG FESTIVALS.

philly’s leader in independent journalism for 31 years and Counting www.Citypaper.net

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