Meal Ticket, 2011, Issue No. 1

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In search of Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best horchata | How to not get killed by your bartender

B E E R B A R TA Q U E R I A Imagine Aztec goddess of alcohol, Mayahuel, and the Greek god of revelry, Dionysus reproducing. Now picture that baby frolicking through hills filled with beautiful women, margarita streams, and trees whose fruit are the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest nachos.The Phillies make the playoffs every year of his life.

This is Jose Pistolaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.

Join us for Philly Beer Week June 3rd - Meet the Brewer Lunch with Weyerbacher and Chris Wilson. Starts at noon with a firkin of something special to kick off our beer week.

June 4th - Ludacrismas Night featuring all of our aged Christmas Beers (Troegs Mad Elf, St. Feuillien Xmas, Scaldis Noel, Nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ice Chouffe, and Avec les Bon Voeux) on draft. Deejay spinning old school hip hop and a live performance from Francincense & Murder of Triple XXXmas Records. Hip Hop Hooray Ho Ho Ho! June 6th - Lunch with North Coast Brewing June 6th 7-10pm - Join us for an evening of Extreme Homebrew inspired insanity. Casey Parker and Joe Gunn welcome George Hummel, author of â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Complete Homebrew Beer Bookâ&#x20AC;? and Nancy Rigberg of Home Sweet Homebrew and special guest Sam Calagione of the Dogfish Head Craft Brewery. Included in the Judge Registration fee of $15, besides lots of complimentary homebrew and tasty snacks, is a chance to vote with Sam in selecting the winner of the Extreme Homebrew Challenge.

Sample the wildest beers that Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Homebrewers have to offer and vote for the Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Choice. Sam will select amongst the winners to be brewed at the Dogfish Head Brewery and entered into the Pro-Am category at an upcoming Great American Beer Festival in Denver, CO. Reflecting the homebrewing spirit, the bar at Joseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s will feature commercial beers from brewers with homebrewing roots. The beers will PAYG by the glass or flights.

June 6th - Late Night with Joe Gunn Featuring Musical Guest Lightninging. 11pm

June 7th - Lunch with Yards. This is our first ever Yards Beer Week event. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have a firkin of something tasty and delicious as well as the last bit of our Trubbel de Yards. Food Specials include the return of the Scrapple Cheese Steak and South Philly Pretzels.

June 7th - MeetThe Brewer...Kindaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Join us and Sierra Nevada and the members of Beer Camp 46 as they unveil their Brand New Hoppy Session Ale - Lighter Shade Of Pale. 7pm June 7th - Late Night with Joe Gunn Variety Show. 11pm June 8th - A Taste Of Sonoma with Lagunitas Brewing. We will be pouring the Fusion 6, Hop Stoopid, amongst others.

These beers will be paired with cheeses from a few of the local creameries surrounding the brewery. 7-10pm June 8th - Late Night with Joe Gunn Variety Show. 11pm June 9th - Lunch with Ithaca June 9th - Late Night with Joe Gunn Variety Show. 11pm June 10th - Lunch with Jolly Pumpkin. Draft selections include Maracaibo Especial, Noel de Calabaza, and Madrugada Obscura.

Plus La Roja and Oro de Calabaza with other selections to be announced.

June 10th - Happy Hour with Founders Brewing (selections to be announced)

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Breakfast: Daily 6:30 am â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 11:00 am Brunch: Saturday & Sunday 11:30 am â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2:00 pm Lunch: Monday â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Friday 11:30 am â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2:00 pm Dinner: Daily 5:30 pm â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 10:00 pm 1200 Market Street Philadelphia, PA 19107 215-231-7300

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N ;O`WU]ZR 9WbQVS\ â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have to be efficient with space, since our food has so many small components,â&#x20AC;? says Marigold Kitchen (501 S. 45th St.) chef/ owner Robert Halpern, a devotee of modern cooking â&#x20AC;&#x201D; see the frothed rose â&#x20AC;&#x153;bubblesâ&#x20AC;? that join the orchids (foreground) on his king salmon dish. Pickled, mandolinsliced cucumber (left) and rhubarb (front, right), plus orange segments, also accompany the salmon.

Pineapple joins a General Tsoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sweetbreads setup, while dehydrated lemon â&#x20AC;&#x153;chipsâ&#x20AC;? (back, left) are worked into hamachi sashimi.

N ; @SabOc`O\b Michael Caspi and his crew arrive at his Morris House Hotel kitchen (231 S. Eighth St.) as early as 8 a.m. to begin prep. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s because there are many ingredients the chef must manipulate before they even touch a mise container. Beets (bottom left corner), olives (bottom center) and assorted fruit (second from left, center) are dehydrated into powders for fish, vegetable and soup preparations, respectively. Traditional brunoised vegetables (center) join unconven-

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tional elements like a lamb dishâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s medjool date purĂŠe (top), mixed with chicken jus and olive oil and tied together in plastic-wrapped links like tiny sausages. Other mise items: dried blood orange â&#x20AC;&#x153;raisins,â&#x20AC;? which are tossed in a salad; and matcha, a Japanese green tea (bottom right), which is strung up in a sack to lightly dust over plates.

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! Tiffinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s executive chef, Sylva Senat, is Haitian by birth and had never formally cooked Indian cuisine before coming on to run Munish Narulaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s six-restaurant Philly empire (soon to be seven, with Broad Streetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s high-end Tashan on the way). He quickly learned that each restaurant, including the flagship (712 W. Girard Ave.), has its own handmade metal spice box stocked with raw ingredients and masalas, the spice blends each location preps in half-cup batches with a coffeebean grinder. First row (L-R): Bay leaf, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Royalâ&#x20AC;? masala (for lamb and chicken dishes), black cardamom pods, dried chilies. Second row (LR): Chaat masala (mild), walnuts, golden raisins, fresh cilantro.

Third row (L-R): fennel seed, turmeric, cayenne pepper, green cardamom pods.

N ;Obga]\ " Ben Puchowitz of Matyson (37 S. 19th St.) has as many as 80 different mised-out items on his line on any given evening, thanks to the intricacies of the BYOBâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s monthlychanging menu. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the setup for one of Puchowitzâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s richer pasta appetizers: Housemade ricotta cavatelli (center top) is served with (clockwise from pasta) Tuscan kale, lamb belly jus (gelatinized at room temperature here; it quickly turns to liquid in a pan), black cerignola olives, fried lamb belly, preserved Meyer lemon strips and Parmesan cheese. (The fire-enginered house-pickled cherry peppers in the round dish go with a separate hiramasa setup.) continued on page 8 Ă­

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N >ZS\bg # Prepared-food market, deli and sandwich shop Plenty (1710 E. Passyunk Ave.) is a showcase for chef Tim McGinnisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; skill with cured and smoked meats, all of which are set up on a prep line for fast access. Simple brined turkey breast (top row, right) joins more laborious preparations like beef brisket (bottom row, left), coated in a Texas barbecue-style spice rub and smoked with hickory for 10 to 12 hours. The tasso ham (second row, center), derived locally from Country Time Farm, is cured in a rub of cayenne, black pepper, allspice and Herbes de Provence.

Chickpeas, pickled red onion and McGinnisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; scratch-made Cumberland sauce (a traditional charcuterie condiment containing currants and shallots cooked down in port, with cayenne, sugar and powdered mustard) round out Plentyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mise.

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N /`ba $ When Jennifer Carroll, chef de cuisine at 10 Arts (Ritz-Carlton, 10 S. Broad St.), began cooking at Eric Ripertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Le Bernardin, she started from the bottom and worked her way up, eventually becoming sous chef. (She was tapped to run Ripertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Philly outpost in 2008.) This meant many an early morning prepping mise en place for the seafood temple. She now oversees an entire squad of cooks doing the same in 10 Artsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; massive kitchen. On the left: â&#x20AC;&#x153;nine pansâ&#x20AC;? (so called because nine of them fit in a large hotel pan) filled with (from left) chives, thin-sliced â&#x20AC;&#x153;ninjaâ&#x20AC;? radish, passionfruit vinaigrette, micro cilantro and pickled watermelon radish, to go with precisely sliced, quick-seared cubes of yellowfin tuna. On the right are the ingredients for Carrollâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s watercress soup (clockwise from left): watercress purĂŠe, potato leek base, crunchy croutons and housemade ricotta cheese. (drew.lazor@citypaper.net)

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Indulge in a tasting of Ultra Premium Pennsylvania Wines, & Enjoy Our Majestic Vineyard Setting.

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O V]caS g]c ZSO`\ bVW\Ua BVS RWTTS`S\QS PSbeSS\ aO\RSR O\R c\aO\RSR U`]cb T]` SfO[^ZS ]` V]e O T`SaV Q]Ob ]T ^OW\b T]` bVS POaS[S\b abOW`eSZZ aV]cZR eOWb c\bWZ OTbS` g]c eSRUS O eOaVS` O\R R`gS` R]e\ bVS`S /\R g]c `SOZ WhS bVOb \] O PcbbS` Y\WTS Wa \]b O\ OQQS^bOPZS acPabWbcbS T]` O TZOb VSOR aQ`SeR`WdS` One of the easier-to-swallow lessons that renovations beget is where to eat when time is slimmer than a 1/32-inch drill bit and â&#x20AC;&#x201D; surprise! â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the whole house needs to be rewired and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be $3,000, please. For me, it started with Roccoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, the sausageslinging operation that feeds the utility-belted cognoscenti outside three area Home Depots. Speedy yet courteous, simple yet supremely flavorful, Roccoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s embodies the idea that fast food neednâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be ass food.

For carpenters, plumbers, roofers, stonemasons, landscapers and hardwood refinishers â&#x20AC;&#x201D; just a few of the characters with whom you become intimately acquainted during home

improvement â&#x20AC;&#x201D; lunch is not something to linger over. Ditto for the stevedores, truck drivers and mechanics who start their workdays when most of us are going to bed. These haunts have names as plain as their digs: Moe, John, Frank, Mike. (You wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t trust a place named Bryceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sausage, would you?) Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in the throes of remodeling or not, work them into your dining rotation and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be dropping their names into conversation as if they (and you) were just another one of the guys.

tion company hoodies here than anywhere else in the city. Sliced off a giant serpentine meat spiral, speared with a two-pronged fork and stuffed into Amoroso rolls, the sausage is a textural dynamo, the bronzed casings snapping like rubber bands. Mustard. Peppers. Onions.

Even Parmigiana, finished with marinara ladled from soup warmers.

1651 S. Columbus Blvd. and 2539 Castor Ave., 7 a.m.-9 p.m. daily; 4640 Roosevelt Blvd., 8 a.m.-7 p.m. daily.

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/b @]QQ]¸a bVS friendly grill-masters call you â&#x20AC;&#x153;sirâ&#x20AC;? and the Utz chips are always on the house â&#x20AC;&#x201D; cause enough to like owner Dan Winterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sausage-shed threesome, spin-offs from his best friendâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s same-named linkery in Queens. They serve breakfast sandwiches and steaks, but the hot-and-sweet sausage (a custom blend from Maglioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s) is the real reason youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see more construc-

N ;WabS` 1VcPPg¸a Road prisonsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; escapee alarms has its advantages. A steady supply of uniformed guards cross the highway for Chubbyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s daily deals ($3.89 Wednesday flapjacks) eaten at a counter decked with Pennsylvania Lotto machines. Be advised that extra syrup is 30 cents a pack, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth the splurge for this lively luncheonette, also a favorite of the grease-streaked mechanics who work in the auto body shop Chubbyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s continued on page 12 Ă­

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shares a parking lot with. 8312 State Road, 215-708-8601. Mon.-Fri., 4:30 a.m.-7 p.m.; Sat., 4:30 a.m-11 a.m.

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Dog Guyâ&#x20AC;? is the only last name Mike will give out. Construction crews, 1st District cops and dog devotees know where to find the quilted silver cart fit on the bed of his hunter-green Ford F-250. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on Passyunk between 23rd and 24th, where Mikeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been serving steamed franks for the past 30 years beneath a white-and-navy Dietz & Watson umbrella. Feet planted on a cushion of rubber floor mats, he stuffs, tops, wraps and bags dogs in seconds flat, all while practicing the art of affable small talk with customers who line up rain or shine. The Italian sausages are double the size of the hot dogs, and doubly good piled high with homemade pepper hash. Passyunk Avenue between 23rd and 24th streets, no phone. Mon.-Fri., 9:30 a.m.-4 p.m.

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the municipal piers along Columbus.

Since 1989, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been run by Joe Trocino, whose father, Frank, started the business out of the back of a truck while recovering from a constructionsite injury in the 1950s. The root-beerbrown hut with mustard-yellow trim opens early for dockworkers, and later in the a.m. truckers pepper the line of laminate tables in the front of the room, each set with just one chair for maximum just-me-and-the-open-road effect. Besides griddle-browned pancakes, egg sandwiches and salty flows of chipped beef, Frankâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sells gum, smokes, aspirin, Phillies commemorative pint glasses and beer to fill them with. The fridge at the end of the long stainless-steel counter is stocked with pounders of Colt 45 and Natty Ice, the real breakfast of champions. 2433 S. Columbus Blvd., 215-339-8840. Mon.Fri., 5 a.m.-3:30 p.m.

N ;WYS¸a :c\QV /Q`]aa bVS b`OW\ tracks, where the ass end of Columbus Boulevard flows into double-wide Pattison Avenue, the unobstructed light catches the fluorescent-yellow vests of the fork-lift operators who work at the surrounding marine terminals and produce warehouses. They mill about outside Mikeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lunch, a candy-apple-red truck whose mascot, a burly mustachioed cartoon butcher clutching a basketful of sausage links, should give a clue what the fuss is about. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also roast beef,

saucy meatball sandwiches, Saranwrapped doughnuts and corn muffins the crew will thoughtfully split, grill and spread with butter. 3490 S. Front St., 215-755-4635.

N ;]S¸a 6]b 2]U 6]caS 7b R]Sa\¸b Z]]Y like much from the outside â&#x20AC;&#x201D; just a low-slung brick bunker gripping a triangular patch of Grays Ferry real estate â&#x20AC;&#x201D; but inside, Moeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s faux-pressed-tin ceiling, scrubbed pine wainscoting and framed black-and-whites of local landmarks project an air of surprise spiffiness. Workers from nearby Trigen Energy and Diamond Tools have been lining up here for the past five-and-a-half years, since owner Paul Camerote, along with wife, Lois, and daughter/chef, Amber Eberz, converted part of his HVAC office into a â&#x20AC;&#x153;mini-diner.â&#x20AC;? Though Moeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s open kitchen puts out everything from fish cakes and milkshakes to chicken parm and house-made applesauce, the Dietz & Watson dogs are the main attraction. Mounted on sturdy Caciaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rolls, they come in dozens of styles, topped with everything from mac â&#x20AC;&#x2122;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cheese (the Connie Mac) to chili, onions, jalapeĂąos and salsa (the Hot in the City), best washed down with Champ Cherry from the soda fountain. 2601 Washington Ave., 215465-MOES. Mon.-Fri., 6:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Sat., 8 a.m.-2:30 p.m. (adam.erace@citypaper.net)

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As Doyle immediately pointed out in our conversation, without customers, bartenders donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make a living.

This symbiosis could be characterized as mutualism, a relationship between two different species where both individuals derive a benefit â&#x20AC;&#x201D; e.g., youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a shrimp, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a goby

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fish, letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s get you drunk. While most bar-goers are generally agreeable, a perplexing minority abandon basic courtesy when faced with that big bar and the human being manning it.

So rather than viewing this guide as an indictment of people forking over their hard-earned money for drinks, think of it as one big generous tip.

N 6OdS ^`]^S` 72 RcV Âľ7T g]c Z]]Y under 30 and your bartender asks for ID, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t give them an indignant sigh or an attitude, especially if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re 22,â&#x20AC;? says Jonn Klein, bartender and owner of The Dive and Watkins Drinkery. Your bartender isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t interested in your address or your photo â&#x20AC;&#x201D; only in covering their frighteningly exposed ass under state law, as Klein notes: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t leave your house without ID if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re planning to go to a bar and look under 30.

Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just common sense.â&#x20AC;?

N 5Sb ]cb ]T bVS eOg Âľ7 bVW\Y []ab pointers could be summed up by saying, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Be aware of

your surroundings,â&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;? says Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co. bartender/manager Colin Shearn.

Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re out for a fun night on the town. But in order for you to even have that fun, work needs to get done, so make room. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you see servers coming and going from one part of the bar, marked by brass rails or a sign that says â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Serviceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; or a large black rubber drink mat â&#x20AC;Ś donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stand there,â&#x20AC;? says Shearn.

N @Sa^SQb bVS XcYSP]f / U]]R XcYSP]f can be the critical difference between a mediocre watering hole and a sweetheart saloon.

But abusers of DJ privileges, like â&#x20AC;&#x153;anyone who plays any song more than once per visitâ&#x20AC;? at Joe Gunnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bar JosĂŠ Pistolas, might just suffer the worst consequence: a permanently dry glass. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Jukes allow for any fool with $5 in his or her pocket to really screw up the vibe,â&#x20AC;? says Rees Brown of Grace Tavern. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be that fool. continued on page 16 Ă­

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Maybe the jukebox isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the best medium to show the world what youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;all about,â&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;? adds The Franklinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shearn. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Or for irony. Play some fucking rock â&#x20AC;&#x2122;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; roll and move on with your life.â&#x20AC;?

N >ZOg Wb Q]]Z >S`VO^a O`]c\R bVS same time socially dysfunctional nerds became celebrated billionaires (thank The Social Network), keeping things cool and low-key lost its cachet. That being said, hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a vital piece of advice for bar-going novices: Asking for free drinks virtually guarantees you will not get any, ever. Free drinks are a not a right, but a privilege bestowed on steady regulars, lavish tippers and VIPs as indicated by bar owners. Haranguing your bartender or begging for stronger drinks without being willing to pay for doubles is just about as lame as it gets.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;My regulars know they are getting a strong drink for a good price and tip accordingly,â&#x20AC;? says longtime Dirty Frankâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bar queen Jody Sweitzer. â&#x20AC;&#x153;They donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t comment on how cheap our prices are and then graciously tip 50 cents.â&#x20AC;? Asking for the cheapest thing on the menu, noted several on the panel, is also unlikely to endear you to your server, and those who â&#x20AC;&#x153;wave their money frantically and scream as if they have been stranded on an island with no food and water for months,â&#x20AC;? as Sweitzer puts it, typically meet the same fate. Cliffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Notes version: Just. Be. Cool.

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ÂľEVS\ 7 O[ really busy, I am smiling on the inside,â&#x20AC;? shares Sweitzer, who has clearly suffered, as all female bartenders do, thousands of suggestions to put on a happy face. â&#x20AC;&#x153;[Those customers donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t] have the

ability to understand that I wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t show up to their job when they are deep in shit and make them feel worse because their countenance was not to my liking.â&#x20AC;?

Multitasking, a permanent state for anyone who works at a bar, does not include matchmaking services from Gunn: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Guys should not ask bartenders for help picking up girls.â&#x20AC;?

As for â&#x20AC;&#x153;that guyâ&#x20AC;? who keeps annoyingly inserting himself into other peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s conversations? Glommy singles who drive away other guests acquire unshakably bad reputations with bartenders quickly.

Lest the bar-going public lose confidence in their best-loved mixmaster, fear not. The best in the business cleave to Heather Keating of the P.O.P.E.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s philosophy: â&#x20AC;&#x153;I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t change your life, but I can change your night â&#x20AC;&#x201D; hopefully in a good way.â&#x20AC;? Drink on. (editorial@citypaper.net) Felicia Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ambrosio has had a long and infamous career behind bars, and still makes cameo appearances at Monkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CafĂŠ.

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Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s because the drink â&#x20AC;&#x201D; some combination of rice, cinnamon, water, milk and sugar â&#x20AC;&#x201D; can be tweaked in ways both subtle and drastic to yield many different iterations. â&#x20AC;&#x153;In taquerias, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s there. On the streets when itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hot, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s there,â&#x20AC;? says Plaza Garibaldiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Raul Castro. Just as with using powdered mixes for iced tea or lemonade, not everyone makes horchata from scratch. When they do, there are countless variations to consider. Many begin with the rice powder and go from there, while those like Castro start further

back with untouched rice.

A drink containing milk isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t what first springs to mind to when trying to beat summer heat â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Pura Vida owner Charles Alvarez says he often compares it to cereal milk for customers unfamiliar with it â&#x20AC;&#x201D; but horchata is mostly water, anyway. In fact, many make it with no leche at all, allowing that floral rice flavor to really come through.

Milkless horchata can be found sitting out at room temperature in glass vessels awaiting the draw of a ladle.

In these versions, cinnamon can be mixed in prior to serving; other times itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dusted over top to order, in an aesthetically pleasing sprinkle that flavors the drink as it falls to the bottom of the cup.

The light use of milk (usually whole) in the recipes featuring dairy, however, provides an intimation of creaminess without making the drink heavy (measurements vary, but many recipes call for roughly two parts milk for every five parts water). The addition of milk not only sweetens the drink (a trait that can be enhanced

with vanilla, sugar or condensed milk), it also bolsters horchataâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ability to extinguish a spiced-out mouth.

At >ZOhO 5O`WPOZRW (935 Washington Ave.), chef/owner Castro lets rice sit overnight in water ahead of blending it, straining it and blending it again with milk (evaporated and whole) and cinnamon. He sweetens the mix with a pinch of vanilla and some sugar. The key here is Mexican cinnamon, or canela; with the leafiness of tobacco, it has a pronounced bite that gradually lays into the back of the tongue. The spiciness of Garibaldiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s horchata, poured from a chilled dispenser, hits in varying waves, cut by a giddy, rice-puddinglike creaminess. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perfect paired with Castroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oaxaca cheese and masa quesadillas.

Ask for horchata at F]QVWbZ (408 S. Second St.) and your bartender will turn around to grab one of three bulbous glass jugs (the other two are hibiscus and tamarind aguas frescas). Poured over ice into a tall Collins glass, this milkless horchata continued on page 20 Ă­

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has a slightly grainy feel. Manager Sergio Ruiz takes a from-scratch approach, soaking his rice for eight to 10 hours before blending it and passing it through cheesecloth twice to gain that winning consistency. They spike upon request here, too â&#x20AC;&#x201D; ask for two parts dark rum on the rocks topped off with horchata. The sugars of the rum are subsumed within the rice-and-cinnamon mosaic, the alcohol dancing on the edges. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve also done a horchata and vanillainfused tequila cocktail.

To find the horchata at BOQ] @WS\R] (1301 N. Fifth St.), look next to the cash register, at the end of the cafeteria-like line where your tacos are assembled. The horchata â&#x20AC;&#x201D; rice, water, a small amount of whole milk and a faint dusting of powdered cinnamon that quickly settles â&#x20AC;&#x201D; is light, splashing together nicely with bites of rich, fatty beef cheek tacos.

At South Phillyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s :]a 5OZZ]a (951 Wolf St.), the horchata sits in a 5-gal-

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lon jug in front of the cash register, its three thick bands of glass giving the impression of a mini barrel. â&#x20AC;&#x153;People come in here and they stare and they say, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that?â&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;? says owner Luz Jimenez. (He converts them by offering samples.)

Making the horchata is â&#x20AC;&#x153;a process,â&#x20AC;? one Jimenez happily takes to. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why people who love it come here â&#x20AC;&#x201D; they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to make it at home.â&#x20AC;? Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a whisper of cinnamon (he blends in whole sticks with the rice) that plays elusively with his restrained use of vanilla extract â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x153;just a little.â&#x20AC;? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s neither too thick nor too heavy. â&#x20AC;&#x153;No one wants to feel full right away,â&#x20AC;? says Jimenez of his light version. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s especially not the point with horchata.â&#x20AC;?

There are horchata traditions that extend outside of Mexico, too.

Guatemalan-born Alvarez of >c`O DWRO (527 Fairmount Ave.) scratchmakes horchata in line with how itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s served in his native Guatemala.

Rather than just let uncooked rice

soak, he gives it a light toast ahead of an overnight steeping. Then, he rinses it several times, dries it and grinds it into a fine powder, rendering a clean, refreshing end product flavored with powdered cinnamon. You might swear thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vanilla in there, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s actually the toasted flavor that theâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culprit.

For a nearly dessert-like experience, visit Venicio Guerraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shoeboxsize BO_cS`WO :O ;]`S\O (11 E. Moreland Ave.) in Hatboro. They make horchata from scratch roughly every other day, combining best-ofthe-best canela with soaked-overnight rice and then blending. Sweet condensed milk (no whole here), a dash of vanilla and sugar make for quite the sweet horchata, pushing the spicier cinnamon notes to the background. Having multiple glasses can catch up with you, especially if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re eating something rich like cemitas (Pueblan sandwiches) â&#x20AC;&#x201D; but then again, drinking a light dessert is never a bad thing. (editorial@citypaper.net)

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[O`YSbeObQV 4]` W\T] ]\ Z]QOZ TO`[S`a [O`YSba dWaWb bVST]]Rb`cab ]`U O\R TO`[b]QWbg ]`U N ;]\ROg 6]^S 4O`[ Ob AbS\b]\ 4O[WZg ;O\]` | 1300 E. Tuplehocken St., 1-3 p.m. (opens June 6)

N BcSaROg 0`]OR O\R @Wb\S` j Broad and Ritner streets in front of the Fels Center, 2-7 p.m. (opens in June) 5`Oga 4S``g j 29th and Wharton streets in front of Peace Plaza, 1-5 p.m. (opens in June) >]W\b 0`SShS j 22nd and Tasker streets, 2-6 p.m. (opens in late May)

>Oaagc\Y 4]c\bOW\ j 11th and Tasker streets, 3-7 p.m. (opens in late May)

3Oab 4OZZa j Midvale and Ridge avenues, 3-7 p.m. (opens in late May)

C\WdS`aWbg A_cO`S j 36th and Walnut streets, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. (opened May 4)

BVS @ORWO\ j 40th and Walnut streets, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. (opens August 23)

6S\`g 5]b 1`]^a j Saul Agricultural High School, 7100 Henry Ave., 2-5 p.m. (opens in early June)

5S`[O\b]e\ j 6026 Germantown Ave., 2-6 p.m. (opens in late May)

N BVc`aROg 1SQWZ 0 ;]]`S j On Cecil B. Moore Avenue between Broad and 13th streets, 2-6 p.m. (opens in late May) 1ZO`Y >O`Y j 43rd Street and Baltimore Avenue, 3-7 p.m. (opens June 2) 4OW`[]c\b j 22nd Street and Fairmount Avenue, 3-7 p.m. (opened May 5) <]``Wa A_cO`S j W. Susquehanna Avenue and Howard Street, 2-6 p.m. (opens in June)

N AObc`ROg 1ZO`Y >O`Y j 43rd Street and Baltimore Avenue, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. (year-round) 4WbZS` A_cO`S j 23rd and Pine streets, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. (year-round) =dS`P`]]Y j Lancaster and City avenues, 9 a.m.-1 p.m. (opens May 21) 0`g\ ;Oe` j Municipal Lot 7, Lancaster and Morris avenues, 9 a.m.-1 p.m. (opened April 30)

=fT]`R 1W`QZS j Oxford Circle Mennonite Church, 900 E. Howell St., 2-6 p.m. (opens June 9) >OZ[S` >O`Y j Frankford Avenue and East Palmer Street, 2-6 p.m. (opens in early June) ESab =OY :O\S j 72nd Street and Ogontz Avenue, 2-6 p.m. (opens in early June)

0OZO 1g\egR j Belmont Avenue and St. Asaphâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Road, 3-7 p.m. (opens in June)

;]c\b /W`g j Lutheran Theological Seminary Plaza, Germantown Avenue and Allen Lane, 3-7 p.m. (opens in late May)

8STTS`a]\ j 10th and Chestnut streets, 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m. (opens in late May)

@WbbS\V]caS j 18th and Walnut streets, 10 a.m.-1 p.m. (opens in late May)

AcPc`PO\ AbObW]\ j 16th Street between Market Street and JFK Boulevard, 2:30-6:30 p.m. (year-round)

A]cbV O\R >Oaagc\Y j On Passyunk Avenue off South Street, just east of Fifth Street, 2:307 p.m. (opens in late May)

@WbbS\V]caS j 18th and Walnut streets, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. (year-round)

C`PO\ 5W`Za >`]RcQS j The Schuylkill Center for Environmental Education, Port Royal and Hagyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mill roads, 2-6 p.m. (opens in late May)

AeO`bV[]`S j Across from Swarthmore Co-op at Dartmouth and Lafayette avenues, 9:30 am.-1:30 p.m. (opens in late May)

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5`SS\aU`]e 4O`[abO\R j 2501 E. Cumberland St., 10 a.m.-2 p.m. (opens May 28)

0`]OR O\R A]cbV j Broad and South streets, 2-7 p.m. (opens in late May) 1ZWdSRS\ >O`Y j Chew Avenue and Johnson Street, 2-6 p.m. (opens in late June) 6ORRW\Ub]\ j 52nd Street and Haverford Avenue, 1-5 p.m. (opens in early July) AQVcgZYWZZ @WdS` >O`Y j 25th and Spruce streets, 3-7 p.m. (opens in late May) =OY[]\b j Oakmont Municipal Parking Lot, 2419 W. Darby Road, Havertown, 3-7 p.m. (opens May 18) QWbg^O^S` \Sb [SOZbWQYSb

1VSab\cb 6WZZ j Winston Road between Germantown Avenue and Mermaid Lane, 9:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. (opened April 30)

4O`[ # j 51st and Chester streets, 4:30-7 p.m. (opens May 26) 5`SS\aU`]e 4O`[abO\R j 2501 E. Cumberland St., 2-7 p.m. (opens May 26)

N 4`WROg 6ORRW\Ub]\ j 52nd Street and Haverford Avenue, 1-5 p.m. (opens in early July)

%bV O\R 5W`O`R j 27th Street and Girard Avenue (northwest corner), 10 a.m.-1 p.m. (check westgirardcc.org for opening info)

N Ac\ROg 6SORV]caS A_cO`S j Second and Lombard streets, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. (opened May 1) 2WQYW\a]\ A_cO`S j Moyamensing Avenue and Morris Street, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. (opening June 5)

ticket

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ORdS`bWaW\UW\RSf 2SbOWZa ]\ bVS Z]QOZ SabOPZWaV[S\ba g]c¸ZZ Âż \R W\ bVS ^OUSa ]T ;SOZ BWQYSb '"! j 943 S. Ninth St., 215-925-0900, twitter. com/943byob. A new Argentine/Italian BYOB in the Italian Marketâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ninth Street corridor.

BVS /PPOgS j 637 N. Third St., 215-6276711. The atmosphere here is homey and welcoming; so, too, are its kindly bartenders.

conscious spots, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clear this Q102 personality knows how to rock more than one kind of mixer.

5W`Oa]ZS j 1410 Pine St., 215-732-2728, gira-

;]\Y¸a 1OT{ j 264 S. 16th St., 215-5457005, monkscafe.com. A bustling Belgian bistro that offers a staggering selection of international beers.

solephilly.com. Mediterranean fare smack dab in the center of the city.

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5`OQS BOdS`\ j 2229 Grays Ferry Ave., 215/`b 7\abWbcbS ]T >VWZORSZ^VWO j 2300 Market St., 215-567-7080, artinstitutes.edu/ philadelphia. A private college that offers degrees in the arts, including culinary and baking programs.

0ZcS 1ZOe ASOT]]R 1`OP 3ObS`g j 4494 Route 130, Burlington Township, N.J., 609-3873700, crabeatery.com. Open since 1961, this N.J. crab house serves everything from Dungeness to soft crabs, with all-you-can-eat options.

893-9580, gracetavern.com. Vintage beauty aside, Grace offers an impressive beer selection and delectable grub.

Baltimore Pike, Avondale, Pa., 610-268-6962, natural-by-nature.com. Produces Natural By Nature-brand grass-fed dairy products like organic milk and whipped cream.

<Se Ac^S` 9W\U 0cTTSb j 40-44 Snyder 1116, jetwinebar.com. Extensive wine list in a cool, sleek space.

Ave., 215-339-1986, newsuperkingbuffet.com.

Offering a Chinese all-you-can-eat buffet and a la carte menus for lunch and dinner.

8</ 7\abWbcbS ]T 1cZW\O`g /`ba j 1212 S.

>OZ][O j 763 S. Eighth St., 215-928-9500,

Broad St., 215-468-8800, culinaryarts.edu.

Offering courses in professional cooking, restaurant management and more.

palomafinedining.com. Mexican fine dining in the heart of Bella Vista.

8Sb EW\S 0O` j 1525 South St., 215-735-

>Ob¸a 9W\U ]T AbSOYa j 1237 E. Passyunk

0`O\RgeW\S DOZZSg EW\S B`OWZ j 610-4443842, bvwinetrail.com. Seven Chester County wineries have joined forces for an easy yearround driving tour.

8]a{ >Wab]ZO¸a j 263 S. 15th St., 215-5454101, josepistolas.com. A burrito bar for the fancy-beer-swilling crowd.

Ave., 215-468-1546, patskingofsteaks.com.

Welcome to the Cheesesteak Capital of the Universe. Order wisely.

0`WRUSeObS`¸a >cP j 2951 Market St., 215-

9O\SZZO j 1001 Spruce St., 215-922-1773,

>S\\a E]]Ra EW\S`g j 124 Beaver Valley

387-4787, thepubin30thstreetstation.com.

Stop in for a nosh before you catch your train.

kanellarestaurant.com. Authentic Cypriot fare from chef Konstantinos Pitsillides.

Road, Chadds Ford, Pa., 610-459-0808, pennswoodswinery.com. This Pennsylvania winemakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s motto: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Think globally. Drink locally.â&#x20AC;?

2WdO\ Bc`YWaV 9WbQVS\ j 918 S. 22nd St.,

9S\\Sbb j 848 S. Second St., 267-687-1426,

215-545-5790, divanturkishkitchen.com. When it comes to laid-back comfort and straightforward flavors, siblings Ilker and Fulya Ugur have hit on a formula that serves them well in this rapidly changing part of town.

kennettrestaurant.com. This neighborhood restaurant is capable of doing everything â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and doing it well.

>Z]cUV BVS AbO`a | 123 Chestnut St., 215-

9`OTbe]`Y j 541 E. Girard Ave., 215-739-

>GB j 1050 N. Hancock St., 215-964-9009, pyt-

1700, kraftworkbar.com. Kraftwork is a serious beer bar offering a lineup of 24 all-draft craft options, including one on cask.

philly.com. Tommy Upâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s burger lounge/adultshake shack for the NoLibs glitterati.

3O`bV 0`SOR 0`SeS`g j 7136 Germantown Ave., 215-242-MOON, earthbreadbrewery.com.

Enough kettles and urns to serve up a changing roster of four housemade beers at a time.

3`OeO\ BVOW 1cWaW\S j 123 S. 23rd St., 215567-2542, erawanphilly.com. What pushes this cuisine over the edge is the presence of crispy rice in entrĂŠes, which gives a texture that may send your mind away to the Laotian side of the Mekong River.

4]`Y j 306 Market St., 215-625-9425, forkrestaurant.com. Forkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pioneering farm-to-table mentality adds an artisanal edge with hand-crafted pasta, bread, charcuterie and smoked fish.

@SORW\U BS`[W\OZ ;O`YSb j 12th and : j 2201 South St., 215-732-7878. A cozy spot for a leisurely meal amid the hustle-bustle of South Street.

;OYW[O\ AcaVW j 1326 Spruce St., 215546-0180; 7324 Oxford Ave., 215-722-8800; 185 Route 70, Medford, N.J., 609-654-7772, makimanonline.com. These three outposts of Makiman offer Japanese fare in a casual setting.

;O`OPSZZO ;SObPOZZ 1] j 1211 Walnut St., 215-238-1833, marabellameatballco.com.

Grab lunch or dinner in the shop, or order from Marabellaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diverse â&#x20AC;&#x2122;ball-based catering menu.

BVS 4]]R B`cab j 1617 John F. Kennedy Blvd., No. 900, 215-575-0444, thefoodtrust. org. Hosts the Headhouse Farmers Market as well as providing nutrition programs for the community.

;SZ¸a 7\bS`\ObW]\OZ j 201 Jefferson St., Bala Cynwyd, Pa., 610-668-1712. A neighborhood spot with an old-school Italian vibe.

1225 Walnut St., 215-922-FUEL, fuelphilly. com. After a few bites at Rocco Cimaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s health-

Arch Streets, 215-922-2317, readingterminalmarket.org. Featuring more than 80 stalls and shops, Reading Terminal Market dates back to 1892 when the Reading Railroad commissioned a food bazaar. A century later, the market continues to exhibit old and new culinary delights.

AWRSQO` 0O` 5`WZZS j 2201 Christian St., 215-732-3429, thesidecarbar.com. Miller High Life specials coexist with a craft brew-leaning draft selection and smarter-than-your-average bar eats.

A]ZS 4]]R :]Sea 6]bSZ j 1200 Market St., 215-231-7300, loewshotels.com. A swanky bar inside a towering hotel, featuring fresh seafood and inventive cocktails.

A]cbV Ab`SSb A]cdZOYW j 509 South St., ;WaQ]\RcQb BOdS`\ j 1511 Locust St., 215-

4cSZ j 1917 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-468-FUEL;

733-0300, ploughstars.com. Traditional Irish fare and plentiful drink specials in Old City.

732-5797, misconduct-tavern.com. A great go-to sports-fan spot with plenty of HD TVs and daily specials.

215-925-3026. Philadelphiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest Greek establishment features award-winning gyros served alongside a tasty melange of veggies with yogurt sauce.

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