Philadelphia City Paper, May 28th, 2015

Destination Dumplings P H I L A D E L P H I A

MAY 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 ISSUE #1565

BY CAROLINE RUSSOCK

HISTORY UNFOLDS THIS SUMMER 1

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6th & Arch constitutioncenter.org

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IN THIS ISSUE …

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SPACE IS THE PLACE SUN RA WASN’T a native Philadelphian — he hailed from either Alabama or Saturn, depending on whom you believe — but he lived here long enough that we can claim him as a hometown hero. In this week’s Penn & Ink comic, Ronald Wimberly offers a gorgeous glimpse into the cosmic weirdness of the space/jazz legend. “The Startling Saga of Sun Ra” leaps off the page with gritty, inky, old-school comic book gravitas.

CP STAFF Associate Publisher Jennifer Clark Editor in Chief Lillian Swanson Senior Editor Patrick Rapa Arts & Culture Editor Mikala Jamison Food Editor Caroline Russock Senior Staff Writer Emily Guendelsberger Copy Chief Carolyn Wyman Contributors Sam Adams, Dotun Akintoye, A.D. Amorosi, Rodney Anonymous, Mary Armstrong, Bryan Bierman, Shaun Brady, Peter Burwasser, Mark Cofta, Adam Erace, David Anthony Fox, Caitlin Goodman, K. Ross Hoffman, Jon Hurdle, Deni Kasrel, Alli Katz, Gary M. Kramer, Drew Lazor, Alex Marcus, Gair “Dev 79” Marking, Robert McCormick, Andrew Milner, John Morrison, Michael Pelusi, Natalie Pompilio, Sameer Rao, Jim Saksa, Elliott Sharp, Marc Snitzer, Nikki Volpicelli, Brian Wilensky, Andrew Zaleski, Julie Zeglen.

Production Director Dennis Crowley Senior Designer Brenna Adams Designer/Social Media Director Jenni Betz Contributing Photographers Jessica Kourkounis, Charles Mostoller, Hillary Petrozziello, Maria Pouchnikova, Neal Santos, Mark Stehle U.S. Circulation Director Joseph Lauletta (ext. 239) Account Managers Nick Cavanaugh (ext. 260), Amanda Gambier (ext. 228), Sharon MacWilliams (ext. 262), Susanna Simon (ext. 250) Classified Account Manager Jennifer Fisher (215-717-2681) Editor Emeritus Bruce Schimmel founded City Paper in a Germantown storefront in November 1981. Local philanthropist Milton L. Rock purchased the paper in 1996 and published it until August 2014 when Metro US became the paper’s third owner.

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C I T Y PA PER . N ET // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER

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PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // C I T Y PA PER . N ET

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THE BELL CURVE

THIS WEEK ’S TOTAL: +3 // THE YEAR SO FAR: +14

OUR WEEKLY QUALITY-OF-LIFE-O-METER

QUICK PICKS

more picks on p. 18 STORIES & SPIRITS Fringe Festival favorites The Renegade Company (Bathtub Moby Dick, Hunchback) and Spirit Forward, the “shakers and makers” of custom concoctions, produce a one-night reading and cocktail pop-up party in Point Breeze, exploring and interpreting three iconic novels: Upton Sinclair’s The Jungle, Sylvia Plath’s The Bell Jar and H.G. Wells’ The War of the Worlds. They’ll also preview an upcoming work, Dammed Dirty Apes, inspired by Planet of the Apes, King Kong and Tarzan. Spirit Forward creates and demonstrates a cocktail devised for each of these works. 6/1, The Renegade Company, Point Breeze (address provided with reservation), therenegadecompany.org. —Mark Cofta

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State Rep. Michael Regan plans to propose a bill to rename a bridge after former Penn State football coach Joe Paterno. With one caveat: All car crashes there must go unreported.

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West Philly’s Dock Street Brewery is making a beer called “Ain’t Nuthin’ to Funk With,” a golden saison that’s being aged while the music of the Wu-Tang Clan is playing from a smartphone attached to the barrel. The Beanie Sigel Brew, meanwhile, is kept under lock and key, and only taken out once in a while to be shot.

City Council’s website PHLCouncil.com is attacked by hackers who call themselves “Cyb3r CommandOS.” “Oh, it’s on, now,” says Jannie Blackwell, head of City Council’s elite Committee on Tech Innovation and Cyber Warfare. “These /b/tards have no idea who they are fucking with.”

+2

Philadelphia Media Network agrees to a one-month contract extension with the Newspaper Guild, avoiding a strike at the Inky and Daily News. And, with the deck chairs properly arranged, the night watchman saw no reason he should not be allowed to rest his head, if only for a moment.

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Inmates at a prison in Lancaster, Pa., are heard yelling “we’re hungry” out their windows and prison officials say it’s because they were given sandwiches with no cheese.

“But if they yelled anything about overcrowding, privatized prisons or rampant racism in the judicial system, then yeah, they have a point.”

+1

The Roots are named the headliners at this year’s Welcome America festivities on the Parkway on July 4. Also, the Liberty Bell is once again named Philadelphia’s number one bell.

PURITY RING Another Eternity (4AD) may lack the scintillating strangeness of the singles which first introduced us, back in 2011, to Purity Ring’s peculiar prism on electronic pop — Corin Roddick’s side-chained, syncopated synths and Megan James’ fluidly expressive body poetry now feel warmly familiar instead of alluringly alien — but that lens has since been buffed and polished to a high gleam, and their finest moments remain a potent nexus of gritty, fleshy and celestial.

5/30, Union Transfer, utphilly. com. —K. Ross Hoffman HUTCH AND KATHY In the Thermals, Hutch Harris and Kathy Foster write teenage hate letters to God — loud, fast, fuck-authority anthems to rattle your ancestors. Their mostly defunct side duo, however, is all about upbeat bliss and the birds and the bees. Hutch and Kathy’s eponymous and only full-length (released in 2002 and just re-released on vinyl), is catchy and surprisingly cute.

Call it their songs-of-innocence phase, a glimpse of their carefree genesis. 6/2, Boot & Saddle, bootandsaddlephilly.com.

—Patrick Rapa

@ B RO W N

PA U ( VI A

F L IC K R )

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The Pennsylvania SPCA issues a warning to cat owners who live in highrises to be careful about opening windows or doors to balconies. “Or at least don’t open them until your kitty is fitted with a wittle kitty-size GoPro.”

JIM SHEPARD If you think fiction writers are just making shit up, you’ve never read Jim Shepard. A relentless researcher, he empowers his works with note-perfect language (see the gorgeous short story “Classical Scenes of Farewell,” set in 1430s’ France) and, when it suits him — as it does on his new “Holocaust novel” The Book of Aron (Knopf) — a sense of historical authenticity that spit-shines the past. 5/28, Free Library, Main Branch, freelibrary.org. —Patrick Rapa GENE WEEN DOES BILLY JOEL Now that he’s doing a till-death residency at Madison Square Garden, it seems like that old debate is once again raging: How much does Billy Joel suck?

You’re entitled to your opinion, but don’t sit there and pretend you don’t know the words to at least half his greatest hits. Gene Ween (aka Aaron Freeman) knows ’em all, and has the vocal chops to deliver them right.

Guaranteed, this show will be a fun, weird, uncool good time.

5/29, Underground Arts, undergroundarts.org. —Patrick Rapa

C I T Y PA PER . N ET // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER

THENAKEDCITY

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NEWS // OPINION // POLITICS

IMMIGRATION

BY NATALIE POMPILIO

CITIZENSHIP IS THE NEXT STOP ON THIS TOUR

Adriana Arvizo created a self-guided New Americans Tour of Philly’s historic sites to help immigrants prepare for their naturalization test.

ADRIANA ARVIZO noticed a distinct pattern when she was studying for her U.S. citizenship test last year: More than half of the suggested study questions concerned Philadelphia-related people, places or events. This is easy, thought Arvizo, who was working for tourism promoter Visit Philadelphia at the time and frequently taking foreign journalists on tours of historic Philadelphia.

“I went to the Liberty Bell, like, 50 times,” says Arvizo, who was born in Chihuahua, Mexico, and moved to the U.S. to attend college in 2002. “It’s very different when you see something in person than when you study it in a book.”

That’s when she realized the test might not be easy for everyone, and the New Americans Tour was born. Using ques-

BILL’S

tions from the civics portion of the U.S. Citizenship and Immigration Services (USCIS) exam, Arvizo teamed up with a local tour guide and the city’s Office of Immigrant and Multicultural Affairs to create a self-guided walking tour. Available for free download on Visit Philadelphia’s site in English, Spanish, French or Mandarin, the tour has 13 stops in an area mostly bordered

by Arch and Walnut streets, and from Broad Street to the Delaware River.

“It’s not just for immigrants or people studying for the test,” Arvizo says. “It’s for anyone who wants to reconnect with their American roots or anyone who is taking the city and its history for granted. A lot of people are excited about becoming citizens and going through this process. It reminds you we’re a great nation and Philadelphia’s

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The civics portion of the test is an oral exam.

A government official asks aspiring citizens 10 questions chosen at random and respondents must answer six correctly to pass. Some questions change depending on the state in which the test is being given. Test takers in Florida, for example, aren’t asked to name the two U.S. senators from Pennsylvania. (That’s Bill Nelson and Marco Rubio in Florida and Bob Casey Jr., and Pat Toomey here. )

THE PHILADELPHIA REVIEW: In preparing for her citizenship test, Adriana Arvizo realized that nearly half of the study questions related to city people, places or events.

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PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // C I T Y PA PER . N ET

CITIZENSHIP IS THE NEXT STOP ON THIS TOUR

Jennifer Rodriguez, executive director of the city’s Office of Immigrant and Multicultural Affairs, took a special guided version of the tour soon after it was developed last year. A few naturalized citizens were among the group. “They knew the answers to the history questions better than the people who were U.S.- born,� she says. “It was remarkable.�

Rodriguez’s office aims to create a welcoming environment for immigrants, and it promotes naturalization. An estimated 64,000 area residents are currently eligible for full citizenship.

Officials at the USCIS’ local field office in West Philadelphia

continued f rom p. 5

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MARIA POUCHNIKOVA

Naturalized citizens who took the tour ‘knew the answers to the history questions better than the people who were U.S.-born.’

Many of the other questions relate to U.S. history: Who made the first U.S. flag and why does it have 13 stripes?

Who wrote the Declaration of Independence and when was it adopted? What are the first three words of the Constitution and what does that document do? To uncover those answers, tourists can stop at Betsy Ross House, Independence Hall and the National Constitution Center.

(Some stops on the tour, like the National Constitution Center, charge entry fees.)

administer the oath of allegiance to new citizens multiple times each month. “The benefits of naturalization are significant,� Rodriguez says. “Philadelphia is becoming a more global city, benefiting from the influx of immigrants.�

Arvizo postponed her citizenship test because of a recent move to Harrisburg, but is planning to take the exam on June 17. After that will come another milestone. “I want to vote in my first presidential election,� she says. (editorial@citypaper.net)

BEGINNINGS: The Betsy Ross House at 239 Arch St. is the first stop on the tour.

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HERITAGE

BY KELAN LYONS

HEALTHY EATING WITH A SIDE OF AFRICAN PRIDE STARTING IN JUNE, Philadelphia will be the first city in the country to offer permanent sites for A Taste of African Heritage (ATOAH), a free six-week nutritional program consisting of classes on healthy dining options inspired by the culinary traditions of different African cultures.

“Philadelphia is a great location for us because of its cultural landscape,” says Sarah McMackin, program manager for the African Heritage & Health program at nutrition education nonprofit Oldways, which developed the ATOAH curriculum. She was referencing the 2014 U.S. census, in which 44.2 percent of Philadelphia County residents self identified as Black or African-American.

Between 2013 and 2014, 100 ATOAH sites were estab-

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With this course, I’m able to highlight different African countries … this promotes ethnic pride.

lished across the country, reaching approximately 1,000 participants. The courses led to increased consumption of vegetables, greater frequency of home-cooked meals, and reduced weight, waist measurements and blood pressure. The program was particularly successful in Philadelphia as a result of the work of four volunteer teachers.

Dejenaba Gordon is one such volunteer.

Gordon started working with ATOAH in 2014, and is currently doing table demonstrations for the program in Camden. She said the classes she’s taught helped inspire pride in African culinary traditions.

“With this course, I’m able to highlight different African countries. … This promotes ethnic pride and part of the ethnic pride is being healthy and being strong,” she says.

Sara Baer-Sinnott, president of Oldways, hopes that this program will help AfricanAmericans who are at greater risk for heart disease, diabetes, hypertension and obesity.

A free nutritional program could greatly benefit Philadelphians. According to the Centers for Disease Control, 67.9 percent of adults and 41 percent of youth aged 6 to 17 in Philadelphia are obese; in North Philadelphia, nearly three in four children are overweight or obese.

Each two-hour class will feature portions

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dedicated to nutrition education, lessons on African traditions, tastings and hands-on food prep. The classes will promote diets that are rich in plants, healthy oils, whole grains, beans and legumes, with emphasis on meat as a side item instead of as a main dish.

All of the ingredients can be purchased cheaply from local grocery stores through ACCESS or for modest sums of cash — Gordon claims the recipes ATOAH provides can feed a family of four for less than $10.

The programs will be held three times over the course of the year at five locations in the city: The Free Library of Philadelphia’s Central and Olney branches, Feast of Justice, Community Center at Visitation, and the Urban Nutrition Initiative. Five more locations are expected to be added over the course of the year.

McMackin says that “Health Through Heritage,” Oldways’ slogan, “has two meanings: We encourage people to look back on their own traditions and bring back that multicultural approach and appreciation with food … and to get people excited about other cultural heritage and foods.” (editorial@citypaper.net) For more information on ATOAH classes, visit oldwayspt.com.

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THE NEW CZAR OF BIKES AND FEET TAKES OVER WELCOME TO THE second incarnation of Wheel Talk, City Paperâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s column on all things bicycling.

Unlike the previous Wheel Talk, which offered tips about mechanics and safe riding, we will broaden our focus to bigger-picture topics that affect all cyclists in Philadelphia: politics, policy, infrastructure and the people behind all of that.

People like Charles Carmalt, the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first bike/ pedestrian coordinator, who was hired during the early months of Mayor Nutterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first term. His role was to assure cycling advocates that someone in local government would work specifically on the issues that mattered to them.

After nearly eight years, Carmalt retired earlier this spring. His successor, Jeannette Brugger, has been on the job for about three weeks, and the transition is an early test of her positionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s political durability. Step one: Survive a personnel change. Step two: Cross the gap from one mayoral administration to another. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t anticipate the position ceasing to exist in any way,â&#x20AC;? says Brugger, a former transportation planner for the Planning Commission. She adds that the need for a bike-ped coordinator will only increase with more riders taking to the streets.

During Carmaltâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tenure, the city brought bike lanes to Center City, created a plan for bicycle and pedestrian infrastructure and completed high-profile projects like the Schuylkill Banks Boardwalk. Carmalt had a hand in each of these efforts, often serving as the link to the various parties involved in creating them.

Brugger wants to build on that legacy. Among her top goals is to increase transparency, making sure cyclists know about upcoming projects, what and where they are and how many miles are involved. In the next few weeks, she aims to release an overview of whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in store for 2015. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I think that by being more transparent about whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coming and what we do will help folks to know more about bicycle infrastructure in Philadelphia,â&#x20AC;? Brugger says.

This would help Philadelphians stay on top of major projects, such as this news: All the bike lanes in Center City are scheduled for repainting by next winter, according to Brugger.

When it comes to style, a few differences exist between Brugger and her predecessor. Carmalt stressed the importance of not coming off as too confrontational, the better to establish trust among the various departments and officials. Brugger agrees, but with a caveat. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m slightly more direct than he is,â&#x20AC;? she says.

Alex Vuocolo is a founding editor of SPOKE magazine, a new quarterly publication that focuses on policy, laws, culture and other aspects of cycling in Philly.

PARODY

C I T Y PA PER . N ET // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER

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PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // C I T Y PA PER . N ET

7 Things You Must Know Before Putting Your Home Up for Sale Philadelphia - A new report has just been released which reveals 7 costly mistakes that most homeowners make when selling their home, and a 9 Step System that can help you sell your home fast and for the most amount of money.

This industry report shows clearly how the traditional ways of selling homes have become increasingly less and less effective in today's market. The fact of the matter is that fully three quarters of homesellers don't get what they want for their homes and become disillusioned and - worse - financially disadvantaged when they put their homes on the market.

As this report uncovers, most homesellers make 7 deadly mistakes that cost them literally thousands of

dollars. The good news is that each and every one of these mistakes is entirely preventable. In answer to this issue, industry insiders have prepared a free special report entitled "The 9 Step System to Get Your Home Sold Fast and For Top Dollar".

To order a FREE Special Report, visit http://www.phillysbesthomes.com/ seller_mistakes.asp or to hear a brief recorded message about how to order your FREE copy of this report call toll-free 1-800-560-2075 and enter 4000. You can call any time, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

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This report is courtesy of Larry Levin, Coldwell Banker Preferred. Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract. Copyright © 2014

Destination Dumpling From mandoo to manti, Philadelphia is home to a world of dumplings.

CAROLINE RUSSOCK PHOTOS BY NEAL SANTOS

WORDS BY

E

“

veryone likes dumplings,” says chef Ben Puchowitz of the newly opened East Passyunk hot spot Bing Bing Dim Sum. It’s a simple statement, but it rings true in a remarkably global sense. If you take a quick spin around the globe, you can land virtually anywhere and find a variation on the small, savory — sometimes filled and sometimes not — ball of dough.

Potstickers, pierogies and pasteles are gimmes from Asia, Eastern Europe and South America, but the transcontinental proliferation goes so much further than that. There are Swedish palt, balls of dough stuffed with unsmoked bacon or even reindeer blood; pamonha, Brazilian tamales with corn and coconut milk; and pickert, potato dumplings from Westphalia, Germany, served with liverwurst.

Judging by the wait times at Bing Bing, Puchowitz and his business partner, Shawn Darragh, have created a dumpling-centric golden ticket of a menu that has a wide-ranging accessibility and hits a sweet spot of comfort.

Wilson Tang, owner of Nom Wah Tea Parlor, New York’s oldest dim sum spot, recently opened a second outpost in Philadelphia’s Chinatown. In1950, his uncle, Wally, landed a job in the kitchen of the original location, worked his way up through the ranks and eventually bought the restaurant in 1974. When Tang’s uncle retired in his early 80s in 2010, Tang took over a business that dates back to 1920.

“It is the classic of the classics, your traditional, old-school Cantonese-style dim sum,” Tang says. He compares dim sum to Spanish tapas, a way of eating that involves small, shared plates that’s been around for centuries. But it’s one that’s very at home in the current culinary climate. “Two white guys doing dim sum in Philly?

How cool is that?” he says referring to his comrades in dumpling-making, Puchowitz and Darragh.

But dim sum is only the beginning of the dumpling story in Philadelphia.

There are international iterations of the same basic formula on menus from Cheltenham to Chinatown, Point Breeze to Port Richmond; enough to keep an avid dumpling enthusiast more than occupied and, well, stuffed. (caroline@citypaper.net, @carolinerussock)

C I T Y PA PER . N ET // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER

Nom Wah 218 N. 13TH ST., 215-515-3435, NOMWAH.COM. Open Sun.-Thu., 10:30 a.m.- 9 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m.

W

ilson Tang’s journey from New York’s first dim sum parlor to his new Philly location is fully a family affair, from a family-run hardware store that he revamped into the second Nom Wah to the bathroom wallpaper portraying dumpling illustrations and prices from the original menu.

Tang decided to forgo the bustling banquet hall with middle-aged ladies pushing around steaming carts of dumplings for a calmer dining room with a full bar, a tea selection and paper menus for patrons to check boxes for their orders. Among the choices: glassy shrimp and snow-pea-leaf dumplings and fat taro dumplings with dried Chinese sausage and mushrooms.

The menu of classic, Northern Chinese-style dumplings and small plates is served daily from breakfast until dinner, filling the void in Philadelphia’s weekends-only dim sum scene. Tang’s tone is heartfelt and tender when talking about his dumplings.

“They’re small morsels of food, made with tender love and care. A touch of heart — that’s what dim sim means in Chinese.”

Bing Bing Dim Sum 1648 E. PASSYUNK AVE., 215-279-7702, BINGBINGDIMSUM.COM. Open Sun.-Thu., 5-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5 p.m.-midnight.

W

hen Ben Puchowitz and Shawn Darragh decided to open their second restaurant, the pair spent a solid week doing double-duty dim sum in China.

Guided by Puchowitz’s Hong Kong native sister-in-law, they went everywhere from dingy banquet-style rooms to places that Puchowitz refers to as the Chinese equivalent of the Four Season’s storied Fountain restaurant for dim sum brunch. “Everyone in Hong Kong goes out to dim sum on Saturdays. It’s even more popular than brunch in Philly,” he says.

But in keeping with the ethos that the pair solidified at Cheu Noodle Bar, Puchowitz and Darragh translated their research trip into a menu of dumplings that you won’t find in Asia or pretty much anywhere else in the world. Working with a small selection of doughs that Puchowitz has painstakingly mastered, he’s filling fluffy bao buns with a Reuben-inspired mix of pastrami and Swiss and translating others into a dessert course with caramelized banana and bourbon. The beautifully crafted, colorful dumplings that he ate in Hong Kong are on his menu in the form of jade dumplings made with a vibrant green spinach-water dough and stuffed with leeks and shrimp.

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Rai Rai Ramen 915 RACE ST., 215-309-3609.

Open Sun.-Thu., 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

J

ust like you don’t go to a steakhouse and order fish, it’s not wise to waste time on the appetizers at a ramen spot. This is true for most of the Japanese soup specialists in town, but not at the newly opened Rai Rai Ramen. It’s easy to get caught up in the multi-page menu that lists everything from classic shio ramen with char siu, fish cake, bean sprouts and bamboo, to lesser-known bowls filled with pork intestine and sweet and sour cabbage; and Taiwanese braised pork rice.

The appetizer menu, though, is worth a look.

Without any further menu descriptions, jaded Chinatown frequenters might assume that the gyoza and shumai are an afterthought, or even worse, a defrosted menu concession.

“We make everything here,” a server explains while setting down a plate of lacy, perfectly stuck together pan-fried gyoza and housemade hot sauce. The diminutive wasabi shumai are pastel pink and green and barely quarter-size, but still pack a horseradish kick and a seriously sweet-and-briny shrimp flavor.

Syrenka Luncheonette 3173 RICHMOND ST., 215-643-3954, KAMILAFLORCZAK.WIX.COM/SYRENKA. Open Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sat., noon-4 p.m.

he cafeteria-style dining room of this Polish Port Richmond stalwart screams 1970s. The woodpaneled walls and plastic tablecloths have an air of ironic Eastern Bloc chic. Aside from fresh flowers on the tables, the bulk of the color in the room comes from the steam table with its hotel pans of crimson cabbage, rust-colored bigos (a traditional meat and cabbage stew) and corn that has spent more time in a can than on a cob. But you don’t come to Syrenka (Polish for mermaid, a symbol in Warsaw’s city crest) for the corn.

Forget the Mrs. T’s that populate the freezer case in most major grocery chains. The pierogies here are housemade, filled with mild cheese, creamy puréed potato and cheese, sauerkraut or finely minced pork. Served with a dollop of sour cream, a slick of butter and a few spoonfuls of sticky-sweet caramelized onions (for an extra 50 cents), the pierogi here are hearty and homey personified.

C I T Y PA PER . N ET // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER

Mandoo & Noodles

A

nchored by the H Mart, the More Shopping Center on the north end of Broad Street is a one-stop shop for all things Korean, from take-home bo ssam and banchan to wedding gowns and BB creams. Just inside the parking-lot entrance is Mandoo & Noodles, a small storefront with only two items on the menu: mandoo, which are Korean dumplings with a serious resemblance to pierogi; and jumbo dumplings.

The half-moon-shaped mandoo’s translucent wrappers are steamed and filled with a choice of sesame-spiked pork or a blend of punchy red kimchi and pork. Both varieties are served 10 pieces to an order, hot and ready to go. The jumbo dumplings are airy, softball-sized snacks stuffed with pork and vegetables; kimchi, pork and vegetables; or perhaps the best option, galbi and veggies.

The latter is a combination of marinated short ribs and the same clear sweet-potato noodles that go into a sweetly soy sauced dish of japchae. Korean dumpling fans take note: Mandoo & Noodles has a buy-10, get-one-free loyalty program.

Kanella 1001 SPRUCE ST., 215-922-1773.

Open Tue.-Thu., 5-10:30 p.m;, Fri., 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-10:30 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-10:30 p.m.; Sun., 10 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-9 p.m.

K

onstantinos Pitsillides hails from Cyprus and his manti are the only dumplings on the menu at Kanella. But those pyramidshaped delicacies are deeply flavored, multilayered and rife with Mediterranean controversy.

“Cyprus … [was] invaded in 1974 by the Turks, so we don’t really like them even though we have a lot of similarities. This … is one of the top dishes in Turkey, and I took that and I called it Armenian,” he says, noting Armenians do have a version of it.

Politics aside, Pitsillides has crafted his own version of manti that begins with ground lamb spiced with cinnamon, cloves and handfuls of mint and parsley that is then meticulously wrapped in a thin dough and boiled in meat stock. Once out of the stock, they’re placed atop a mix of thin, bracingly tart yogurt and hit with butter that’s been enlivened with a rich assortment of spices: “Aleppo, pepper, mint, cayenne, paprika — and then, something else, something secret always,” says Pitsillides.

7320 OLD YORK RD., 215-782-3700.

Open daily 8 a.m.-8 p.m.

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ARTS&ENTERTAINMENT

PEACED OUT: Kuf Knotz left Philly for the Netherlands before settling in New York.

HIP-HOP/REGGAE

BY SAMEER RAO

LOVE IS THE MESSAGE

Philly-born MC Kuf Knotz preaches upbeat beats and positive jams.

WHERE’S ALL THE positivity in music?

Did it disappear from our city, from our country, in the heat of the night?

Has public ire, despondency — against malevolent corporations, abusive police, corrupt government, toxic ignorance — rendered our music as cynical and moody as we are?

If that’s the tale we’re telling ourselves, then Kuf Knotz clearly didn’t get the memo.

The 33-year-old hip-hop/reggae MC’s latest album, A Positive Light (Ropeadope Records), is all about spirits being uplifted and optimism being championed in the face of severe hardship. The album doesn’t run from tough stuff, but tries to eke out and emphasize the light that exists in even

these troubled times.

Knotz admits “it can seem preachy or corny when you make positive music,” but that’s just who he is. His speaking voice — laconic and raspy, conveying an almost egoless serenity about his message — is fuzzy over the phone. He and his live band are in the middle of a tour that finds him, when we speak, driving through Massachusetts en route to Portland, Maine.

It’s a safe bet that Philly rappers don’t usually play places like Portland, but it’s par for the course for this mission-driven MC. He frequently finds himself in folksy, indie-minded spaces. On “Get Free,” the emotive, reggae-heavy leadoff single from

ARTS // MUSIC // THEATER // BOOKS

A Positive Light, Knotz talks about “growing every day” and perseverance against “moving backwards.” Meanwhile, Brian Dale Allen Strouse (the long-haired lead singer of beloved local folk/rock act The Lawsuits) incants for liberation over the chorus. The song received serious rotation on WXPN, and this particular tour will end with a gig at the Philadelphia Folk Festival.

But don’t think for a second that Knotz is some kind of cheesy, blinkered poseur. His roots in reggae’s and hip-hop’s spiritually transcendent origins run deep. Growing up in Bryn Mawr, Knotz was first introduced to reggae through his mother’s Haitian family. His gospel-singer grandmother and MC brother nurtured the young Knotz in a potent mix of what would become his signature blend of folk, reggae and rap. By the time he started attending the Art Institute of Philadelphia for video production, he was writing his own material and engaging earnestly with Rastafari culture.

Knotz had a chance to work with legendary The Sound of Philadelphia founders Kenneth Gamble and Leon Huff on what was set to become his first album. Although the project didn’t come to fruition, the experience as Gamble and Huff’s first signed hip-hop act was informative, and their famously grandiose sound has also made its way into his music.

“I mean, the keyboardist James Poyser was working there at the time, Victor Duplaix. …

And learning from Kenny Gamble about the music business was very cool,” he reminisces.

By the time Knotz released his solo debut, Boombox Logic (on Drexel’s MAD Dragon Records), Knotz had become the first hiphop artist to open for Bruce Springsteen.

But looking for other experiences, he left his hometown in 2012.

“I did Philly for a long time, and when you do music here for that long, it becomes super small,” he explains. “I just felt like it was time to leave.”

So he set off for the Netherlands. “It felt like I was in the right place at the right time, and I met one person who introduced me to a producer, and they introduced me to another person. … It was a snowball effect,” he says about his time in Holland. Today, Knotz resides in Manhattan’s Lower East Side.

This willingness to explore and search reflects a desire for self-understanding pervasive in Rastafari, and it explains why Knotz’s music has such a broad appeal.

Although he feels like the torchbearer of a dying tradition, the weight of his mission doesn’t feel onerous.

“I grew up with Public Enemy, N.W.A., The Roots, Native Tongues family — all these groups who were super conscious, but it was fun. Hip-hop was fun and positive, although

‘I grew up with Public Enemy, N.W.A., The Roots, Native Tongues family — all these groups who were super conscious, but it was fun.’ the subjects were heavy,” explains Knotz. “I’d love to keep that spirit alive.”

Moreover, Knotz is assured that despite what’s going on in music around him, there is a place for music with such a forwardthinking and rose-colored message in contemporary America. And as his star rises with A Positive Light, he feels solid in his place in the world.

“I made a conscious decision to make a positive, uplifting album from end-to-end,” he says. “I feel like there is a need and a want for that.” (@amancalledsrao) Free // Fri., May 29, 8:30 p.m., with Tropidelic, Coda, 1712 Walnut St., codaphilly.com.

C I T Y PA PER . N ET // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER

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PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // C I T Y PA PER . N ET

THIS WEEK IN CENTER CIT Y

MAY 28-JUNE 3

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MOVIESHORTS

C I T Y PA PER . N ET // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER

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FILMS ARE GRADED BY CIT Y PAPER CRITICS A-F.

OLD SKULL: H.R. Giger is the subject of Belinda Sallin’s dark documentary.

Film events and special screenings.

REPERTORY FILM

BY DREW LAZOR

I NTERNATIONAL HOUSE

3701 Chestnut St., 215-387-5125, ihousephilly.org. Diary of a Shinjuku Thief (1969, Japan, 96 min.): A petty thief and the shopgirl who catches him get wrapped in a weird sexual/criminal relationship. A 35 mm screening. Part of I-House’s series celebrating director Nagisa Oshima. Thu., May 28, 7 p.m., $9. Boy (1969, Japan, 97 min.): An abusive father forces his wife and son to trick motorists into thinking they’ve hit them with the aim of illicit financial gain. A 35 mm screening. Part of I-House’s series celebrating director Nagisa Oshima. Fri., May 29, 7 p.m., $9. Welcome to Kanata (2006-2011, Canada, 80 min.): A collection of animated films created by Canadian aboriginal filmmakers, visiting courtesy of the Ottawa International Animation Festival. Sat., May 30, 2 p.m., $9. The Man Who Left His Will on Film (1970, Japan, 94 min.): The apparent suicide of a radical film student triggers a mysterious sensory journey through Tokyo. A 35 mm screening. Part of I-House’s series celebrating director Nagisa Oshima.

Sat., May 30, 5 p.m., $9. The Ceremony (1971, Japan, 123 min.): An incisive, comedic commentary on social class in Japanese society, told through a series of important family ceremonies. A 35 mm screening. Part of I-House’s series celebrating director Nagisa Oshima. Sat., May 30, 8 p.m., $9.

DOCUMENTARY

PFS THEATER AT THE ROXY

DARK STAR: H.R. GIGER’S WORLD

/ C / H.R. Giger’s first words to the camera in Belinda Sallin’s documentary are spoken with a handful of human remains: “This is the oldest skull I have,” the Swiss artist says. “My father gave it to me.” The punchline to the story is that the young Giger was so alternately frightened and fascinated by the subject of death embodied in that skull that he pulled it along behind him on a string like a pet. That opening promises an insight into Giger’s art that the film unfortunately never delivers. Sallin’s camera glides over the artist’s sleek, monstrous biomechanical images, lingering on Giger’s twin obsessions with sex and death in his simultaneously beautiful and repellent art. But for all the words that are spoken about his work over the next 90 minutes, little insight is offered beyond the surface, with Giger’s inner circle

and a few academic admirers reiterating themes that can be easily gleaned from even a cursory look at his oeuvre.

Instead of offering any context for Giger’s art or expounding on his legacy, Sallin opts for an intimate portrait of his final months (he died in May 2014, shortly after filming was completed). She pokes around his cluttered home like a nightmarish episode of Hoarders, finding sagging bookshelves, sculptures stacked upon sculptures, and a miniature carnival ride through his own psyche in the backyard. She seems to take for granted a familiarity with her subject, making only cursory mention of the film designs that will be most viewers’ chief knowledge of his work. The best moment, in fact, comes via archival footage from the set of Alien, with Giger taking impish delight that he answered studio execs’ insistence that he alter the too-vaginal design of the alien eggs by turning them into crosses, thus making them doubly blasphemous for Catholic viewers. By the time that Sallin finds him at his home in Zurich and his new museum in Gruyères, little remains of the temperamental egotist with the glowering intensity that we see in these older films.

Instead, the obviously ailing Giger has become a wizened gargoyle surrounded by his dark imaginings, shakily signing his autograph on flesh tattooed with his work. The film putters around the house with him, too deferential to ask more than his company and ending up with a rough sketch of an artist whose work abounds in rich detail. —Shaun Brady (Ritz at Bourse)

2023 Sansom St., 267-639-9508, filmadelphia.org/roxy.

Gimme Shelter (1970, U.S., 91 min.): The quintessential Rolling Stones (and rock ‘n’ roll) documentary, screening in tribute to late director Albert Maysles. Thu., May 28, 7:30 p.m., $10. The Crow (1994, U.S., 102 min.): The late Brandon Lee is a mournful guitarist turned undead vigilante in the film that caused his tragic death. A 35mm screening. Fri., May 29, midnight, $10, and Sat., May 30, midnight, $10. Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (1968, U.K., 144 min.): Dick Van Dyke’s gotta protect his magical jalopy from the advances of an evil baron. Hate evil barons! Singalong friendly for the kids. Sat.-Sun., May 30-31, 11 a.m., $10. Cut Snake (2014, Australia, 94 min.): Set in 1970s Melbourne, this crime thriller follows a conflicted ex-con’s struggles with both sexuality and life on the straight and narrow. The screening will be followed by a discussion led by local LGBT activist Chris Bartlett. Tue., June 2, 7:30 p.m., $10. Superbad (2007, U.S., 113 min.): “McLovin? What kind of a stupid name is that, Fogell? What, are you trying to be an Irish R&B singer?” A BYO screening ($2 corkage fee). Wed., June 3, 7:30 p.m., $10.

RITZ AT THE BOURSE

400 Ranstead St., 215-440-1181, landmarktheatres.com.

The Dark Crystal (1982, U.S./U.K., 93 min.): Jen the Gelfling must save the world from imminent doom by making an endlessly powerful magical gem whole again, no big deal. A sneaky-dark Jim Henson fantasy vehicle.

Fri., May 29, midnight, $10.

PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // C I T Y PA PER . N ET

: MAY 28 - JUNE 3 :

GET OUT THERE

ROOTS PICNIC

The nicest thing about this, the eighth iteration of the annual party hosted by Philly’s finest purveyors of live hip-hop is its reliance on family. There is, of course, Erykah Badu, who’ll be backed by the Roots crew and who is responsible for giving the critical darlings their only true hit single in “You Got Me” from 1999’s Things Fall Apart. Then there’s the fact that Quest has shared many a turntable with Philly’s King Britt who, on that day, takes a break from being a mossy ambient composer (for choreographer Kate Watson-Wallace) long enough to hit the funk hard. If you want literal family, there’s Questlove’s sister Donn T, whose new album Flight of the Donn T (MRI) is groovy. No matter, everyone who plays the Picnic — in particular, rap all-stars The Weeknd and A$AP Rocky — becomes part of the Roots’ extended family. —A.D. Amorosi

thursday

5.28

CHICANO BATMAN

$10 // Thu., May 28, 8:30 p.m., Trocadero, 1003 Arch St., 215-922-6888, thetroc.com.

ROCK From the ’60s-vintage

cover art of their second album, Cycles of Existential Rhyme, to their psychedelic blend of Tropicãlia and garage rock, Chicano

Batman feels less like a band of superheroes than time travelers. Their blissed-out grooves evoke a time when every American city had its own individual sound, in this case an East L.A. concoction of Latin soul and hippie rock laced with electric fusion.

—Shaun Brady

DIRECTORS IN FOCUS: NAGISA OSHIMA

$9 // Thu.-Sat., May 28-30, International House, 3701 Chestnut St., 215-387-5125, ihousephilly.org.

FILM A born provocateur

who helped shape the Japanese New Wave, Nagisa Oshima is best known today for his explicit portrait of sexual obsession, In the Realm of the Senses.

I-House’s weekend-long retrospective offers a wider perspective on the director’s work, much of it far richer, if no less controversy-courting. The series includes the Jean Genet-inspired Diary of a Shinjuku Thief, the history-spanning The Ceremony and the elusive Man Who Left his Will on Film. —Shaun Brady

f riday

5.29 CIRCADIAN RHYTHMS/LOU

$8 // Fri., May 29, 9 p.m.,

DIDN’T CHA KNOW: $99 // Sat., May 30, 11 a.m., Festival Pier, Columbus Blvd and Spring Garden St., 800745-3000, ticketmaster.com.

Ortlieb’s, 847 N. Third St., 267-324-3348, ortliebsphilly.

PSYCH-POP Circadian Rhythms, Philadelphia’s oneband answer to the question “Why didn’t we have an Elephant 6 Collective?” have impossibly been around for 10 years. On the new EP A Passing Thought and as always — they breathe some rarified air long shared between Olivia Tremor Control and Pet Sounds-era Beach Boys. Philly’s Lou — folk singer Tess Emma with a grotty bunch of indie blues players — start this party with their own creaky, weird harmonies. —A.D. Amorosi

DEVIL DRAG 2

$10 // Fri.-Sat., May 29-30, 10 p.m., BrainSpunk Theater at the Papermill, 2825 Ormes St., 215-278-9504, brainspunktheater.com.

THEATER BrainSpunk, who inaugurated its Kensington home with Rocky Horror Show Live earlier this year and will produce Carrie: The Musical in the fall, brings back the company’s weird drag fundraiser with raffle prizes. Iris Spectre hosts, with performances

by Lavinia Loveless, Pretty GIRL, Omyra Lynn, Ann

Artist, Cara Kouture, Max Machina, Champagne Showers, Freddy Meggury, Mr. E.

and more in a blend of oldfashioned freak show, campy horror and a little S&M fun.

—Mark Cofta

LEE SMITH

Free with museum admission of $20 // Fri., May 29, 5 p.m., Philadelphia Museum of Art, 2600 Benjamin Franklin Pkwy., 215-7638100, philamuseum.org.

JAZZ It took bassist Lee Smith 40 years of sideman gigs before he finally released his leader debut, Sittin’ on a Secret, in 2012. He hasn’t gotten any less busy or diverse in his activities, playing regularly with Odean Pope, Fred

Adams’ Arkestra-inspired Philadelphia Heritage Art Ensemble and Bobby Zankel’s retooled Warriors of the Wonderful Sound. But he also now flips the billing with allstar friends for occasions like this Art After 5 performance.

—Shaun Brady

saturday

5.30

HUDSON MOHAWKE $18 // Sat., May 30, 10:30 p.m., with Just Blaze and Nick Hook, TLA, 334 South St., 215-922-2599, tlaphilly.com.

ELECTRONIC/POP Ross Birchard, the antic Glaswegian producer who named himself after two New York rivers, is best known as onehalf of trap-rave catalysts TNGHT, though the gloopy plasticine electro-funk of his solo work casts a wider, wilder and (very occasionally) more nuanced net.

Lantern (Warp), a typically giddy set of maximalist miniatures that’s his first fulllength in six years, enlists a bevy of distinctive vocalists (Miguel, Antony, Jhene Aiko) but it sings loudest when he lets his gallumphing,

TIM SACCENTI

HIP-HOP/ROCK/POP

EVENTS

ASHLEY L ABONDE

18

blinding-neon synths lead the way. —K. Ross Hoffman

ETERNAL SUMMERS $7 // Sat., May 30, 9 p.m., with Hurry and Blowdryer, Everybody Hits, 529 W. Girard Ave., 215-769-7500, everybodyhitsphila.com.

ROCK/POP Here’s your sleeper hit of the season: Virginia band Eternal Summers playing at that weird batting cage place on Girard. Don’t let the oddball, kinda punk venue fool you: Their sound is totally dreamy, gorgeous and playful in a Velocity Girl/Sunny Day In Glasgow kinda way.

C I T Y PA PER . N ET // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER

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PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // C I T Y PA PER . N ET

MISCHIEF BREW BRET T WINTER LEMON

They’re just the loveliest, funnest little shoegaze band in the world. —Patrick Rapa

$12-$20 // Sat., May 30, 3:30 and 8:30 p.m., Boot & Saddle, 1131 S. Broad St., 267-6394528, bootandsaddlephilly.com.

ROCK/POP There are several things to consider when

Philadelphia’s Mischief Brew play this weekend. The first is that they’ve been around for like 15 years and continue along with their usual (and damned worthwhile) Mekons-like mix of miserable angry folk and even angrier old-school D.I.Y. anarchist heavy hardcore punk. Vive la Wooden Shoe! The second is that they have a raging new album This Is Not for Children on the Alternative Tentacles label — which is more amazing realizing that they’re still a label. Vive la Fresh Fruit for Rotting Vegetables! —A.D. Amorosi

tuesday

6.2

WARRIORS OF THE WONDERFUL SOUND + JALEEL SHAW

$15 // Tue., June 2, 8 p.m., Philadelphia Clef Club of Jazz, 738 S. Broad St., arsnovaworkshop.com.

JAZZ Tuesday’s performance by Bobby Zankel’s

Warriors of the Wonderful Sound will mark the final installment in the Philly bandleader’s welcome return to monthly showcases for his adventurous big band — for now, anyway.

Throughout the spring series Zankel has been hosting notable guest artists, and this show is doubly special.

It’s not only saxophonist Jaleel Shaw’s first appearance with the band, but a homecoming for one of the Clef Club’s renowned alumni. —Shaun Brady

HOLLY HERNDON

$13-$15 // Tue., June 2, 9 p.m., with Marshall Allen and Chris Powell, Johnny Brenda’s, 1201 N. Frankford Ave., 215739-9684, johnnybrendas.com.

ELECTRONIC Experimental/electronic glitch, as a genre, doesn’t get much

C I T Y PA PER . N ET // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER

play these days — if only because, as a technique, it has become so thoroughly pervasive — but what this curiously doll-like San Franciscan does on her new Platform (4AD/Rvng Intl) isn’t so far removed from techaddled turn-of-the-century conceptualists like Oval and Akufen. Bewildering but engrossing, abstract but never purely clinical, Herndon’s sputtering malfunctions feel cyborgian rather than merely digital. Squint hard enough and these things could almost be pop songs.

Or possibly infomercials.

—K. Ross Hoffman

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FOOD&DRINK

REVIEWS // OPENIN GS // LISTIN GS // RECIPES

CLAM BAIT: Tria’s riff on bouillabaisse gets a green kick from gremolata.

HILLARY PETROZIELLO

TRIA // 2227 Pine St., 215-309-2245, triaf itlersquare.com. Dinner nightly from 4 p.m. Snacks and appetizers, $2.50-$12; entrees, $14-$18; desserts, $6.50-$7.

REVIEW

BY ADAM ERACE

DINE AND WINE

The latest location of Tria brings bigger plates and a few growing pains.

A COUPLE WEEKS AGO, I started my review of Helm in North Philly by recounting some hospitality drama at a different restaurant. That restaurant was Tria’s shimmering new Fitler Square embassy in the old Dmitri’s, where on a recent night, a morose staff member … barred my entry is the only way I can describe it. I understood why — the restaurant was busy, its square footage is limited and there are only so many seats at the bar — but the attitude with which the host conveyed that information left a taste in my mouth as sour as unsweetened lemonade.

By nature, food is the focus of restaurant reviews, but hospitality plays an important, sometimes the most important, role.

Excellent service can elevate so-so cooking, but really bad service will drag the best meal

down into the mud. So when I went back to Tria a couple weeks later for this review, I had my fingers crossed I wouldn’t encounter the dour door-blocker again.

I didn’t. Instead a hive of easygoing waiters and runners buzzed about my table, one in a row arranged along the 23rd Street sidewalk across from leafy Fitler Square.

One delivered glasses of musky, amber South African mead, bubbly Italian rosé and suave white Burgundy. Another arrived bearing a pillow of toasted brioche veiled in melted fontina and topped with a raw egg yolk and a healthy glug of truffle oil — one of the drinking-friendly snacks that’s been on the menu at Tria since Jonathan Myerow, Michael McCaulley and their partners opened the original “fermentation café” in Rittenhouse Square 10 years ago.

In the years since, Tria has grown to include a second café, a school, Tria Taproom and now, Tria Fitler Square. Big difference: This is the first location with a full kitchen and the ability to serve proper entrees. “As our most dinner-centric (i.e. residential) location, we believed the café menu wouldn’t cut it,” Myerow explained via email. “We wanted to improve our culinary program in general, so it all came together that we would trade in the panini for entrees at Fitler Square.”

For that task, Myerow and McCaulley have retained the services of Karen Nicolas, who most recently was cooking kosher at Citron & Rose in Merion after moving back home to Philly from D.C., where she earned a Food & Wine Best New Chef nod in 2012.

Nothing against the perfectly enjoyable egg toast or pot of smooth, mild white bean spread sprayed with smoked paprika freckles, but they feel a lot less compelling than the larger, original plates Nicolas is creating. It might be hard to crave her braised short rib when it’s 89 degrees out, but on the cool, comfy spring night I spent at Tria, the hunks of jus-glazed beef with tender gnocchi, marinated burrata and kale chips were magic. Housemade pappardelle, a special, struck a more seasonal note with a double dose of ramps. The wild leeks were the oniony underlay in the prosciutto sugo that coated the wide ribbons of pasta, as well as the garlicky punch on top in the form of an emerald ramp-frond chiffonade.

The seafood dishes were particularly successful. Dmitri’s famous octopus has found a worthy successor in Nicolas’ poached and grilled tentacles snaking through a landscape of orzo, plump golden raisins, mint-flecked yogurt and slivered Fresno chilies. Its smaller relative, calamari, arrived slicked in lemon vinaigrette as part of salad with bitter frisee, blanched green beans and capers. My favorite dish, though, was the seafood brodo loaded with sweet clams, button-sized rock shrimp and tender squid. Here, Nicolas riffed on bouillabaisse, mounting the coral-colored clam broth with aggressive Calabrian chile-

compound butter, adding fregola sarda to the seafood and smearing a dipping plank of toasted sourdough with herbaceous parsley gremolata instead of the usual rouille.

These dishes proved Nicolas can cook — but I wish she would push even further beyond the well-charted territory that Tria’s menu covers. Something from her Filipino heritage would be a breath of proverbial fresh air on this Mediterranean-centric menu. Front-loaded with reliable but been-there-done-that things like mixed greens salads with gorgonzola and figs, what is supposed to be Tria’s coming out can still feel a little too familiar to make it a culinary destination.

For dessert, we ordered the flourless chocolate torte with blackberries, espresso custard, coffee crumb and saba, as well as a semolina cake with white chocolate mousse and rhubarb-Moscato sauce — but sadly, I can’t tell you how they were. Our server slunk back to the table looking regretful. The kitchen had already closed, she explained, and she hadn’t realized it when she took the order. It was an oversight, but not one that took down the hospitality experience. Instead I’ll remember

So it all came together that we would trade in the panini for entrees at Fitler Square. my server swooning over the 2013 Domaine Guillaume Cabrol Picpoul de Pinet, and another one who stopped by to trade Serial notes after overhearing our conversation.

For dessert, we probably could have gotten cheese. But I’ve had cheese at the various Trias more times than I can count. On Fitler Square, I wanted something different, a desire that was half fulfilled. (aerace.citypaper@gmail.com, @adamerace)

citypaper.net/mealticket

C I T Y PA PER . N ET // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER

AL FRESCO: Outdoor drinking opportunities abound during Beer Week.

STEPHEN LYFORD

DRINKING PLANS

BY CAROLINE RUSSOCK

BEER WEEK PRIMER

Your day-to-day guide to an optimal Philly Beer Week experience.

FROM MAY 29 UNTIL JUNE 7 Philadelphia will once again be awash in rare barley wines, streets crawling with selfprofessed beer nerds in search of wild fermented ales or in recovery from high ABV hangovers. Yes folks, Philly Beer Week is upon us once again.

Established in 2008, Philly Beer Week has grown into one of the biggest celebrations of beer in the country. While this is a very good thing for amateur zymurgists and eisbock enthusiasts, the sheer number of tastings, meet-the-brewer sessions and plain old tap takeovers can be staggering. Here’s a day-by-day guide to the highlights to help you stave off FOMO while still maintaining a modicum of Beer Week sanity.

FRIDAY, MAY 29 Located at the 23rd Street Armory (22 S. 23rd St.), Opening Tap is the one time during Beer Week the bulk of the city’s beer fanatics will be in the same place at the same time. This three-hour tasting/kickoff features a laundry list of breweries, from the well-established Dogfish Head and Philadelphia Brewing Company, to newcomers like Saint Benjamin and Broken

Goblet. Tickets are $46 and available at phillybeerweek.org.

SATURDAY, MAY 30 The Great Beer Expo is taking over the Navy Yard (4747 S. Broad St.), rain or shine, for a full day of outdoor drinking (obviously) plus food trucks and some interestinglooking seminars by Jerry Vietz, master brewer at Canada’s Unibroue. VIP tickets are $75 and general admission is $46, both available at greatbeerexpo.com.

SUNDAY, MAY 31 Iron Hill Brewery is teaming up with Good Dog Bar (224 S. 15th St.) for their fifth annual Big Ass Beer Dinner. It’s a five-course affair with paired collaboration brews and a menu from chef Jessica O’Donnell. Seats are $50 and are available at good-dog-bar. ticketleap.com.

MONDAY, JUNE 1 Don’t believe the hype — freshly brewed beer isn’t always best. The folks at 2nd Story Brewing (117 Chestnut St.) are hosting an

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BEER WEEK PRIMER

continued f rom p. 23

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evening of barrel-aged beers from local brewers, including two takes on their own breakfast stouts aged in Dad’s Hat rye whiskey barrels. Pay as you go.

TUESDAY, JUNE 2 Proving that beer and cheese are better together, American Sardine Bar (1800 Federal St.) is welcoming Brooklyn’s Six Point and teaming up with local merchant Di Bruno Bros. to offer carefully crafted cheese plates matched with the beers that complement them best. Pay as you go.

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 3 After five days of rare pours and high ABV pints, it might be wise to take a little break.

Happily, Prohibition Taproom (501 N. 13th St.) is hosting a Shitty Beer Tasting event where you can soothe your palate with watery cans and sessionable drafts. Pay as you go.

THURSDAY., JUNE 4 If you have yet to cross “riding a mechanical animal” off your bucket list, Pigs in Space at Percy Street Barbecue (900 South St.) is the event for you. Along with cans from Oskar Blues and a pork-centric menu from chef Erin O’Shea, there’s the once-ina-lifetime opportunity to ride a bucking pig. Pay as you go.

THROUGH FRIDAY, JUNE 5 Tired Hands, Ardmore’s heady craft brewery, is making a trip into Center City and collaborating with Aldine (1901 Chestnut St., second floor) on two custom brews: Ald

DRAFT LINES: Beers pouring at the Shambles.

STEPHEN LYFORD

Bruid, a brown ale with bourbon and fig; and Luminous Calcidity, a sour gose brewed with local oyster shells. Pay as you go.

SATURDAY, JUNE 6 Cascade Brewing from Portland, Ore., will make its Philadelphia area debut at Tria Taproom (2005 Walnut St.). Be on the lookout for fascinating fruit-forward beers, featuring berries and cherries grown in the Pacific Northwest. Pay as you go.

SUNDAY, JUNE 7 As the week ends, Alla Spina (1410 Mt. Vernon St.) is closing off the street and hosting a Chicago-accented block party with chef Paul Kahan of Publican. Goose Island will be pouring all day, and ribs, sausages and a couple of whole pigs are hitting the charcoal. Pay as you go.

citypaper.net/mealticket

C I T Y PA PER . N ET // MA Y 28 - JUNE 3, 2015 // PHIL ADELPHIA CIT Y PAPER

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