BY PHILIPPE FAURE-BRAC
THE WORLD’S BEST SOMMELIER 1992 A N
E X P E R T ’ S
L O G B O O K Editorial
2016: a perlous year
Vertical
Château Pavie: my tasting, in 5 vintages
My favourite
Cognac Hine, Domaines Hine Bonneuil 2006
My guest
Domaine de Chevalier: praise of time Interview with Olivier Bernard
The view
Bollinger: tasting memories
editorial 2016 A PERILOUS YEAR...
T
here’s a weatherrelated legend circulating among winemakers: every ten years, a harvest is lost, either gradually in parts, or all at once. Fortunately, it is nothing more than a legend.... However, the 2016 sky in France appears merciless in all wine-producing regions, especially for the Bourgueil, Chablis, Chiroubles and Volnay wines. For the winemakers and houses hit by frost, hail or violent downpours, these situations spell hard times. These sudden, brutal phenomena are very random: why do they impact one plot of land and not another? The economic consequences are often tragic, as insurance prices are such that very few people purchase it. The relentless springtime rains are adding to the anxiety-provoking
IN A FEW WORDS
PHILIPPE FAURE-BRAC «You can only be crowned best sommelier in the world once: then you must earn it every day». He scooped the award in 1992 in Rio, but Philippe Faure-Brax had already come up with this maxim well before, when he discovered wine during his hospitality studies. His talent was recognized from 1984. Ever since, not a day has passed when he doesn’t discover a wine, meet a winemaker or share his knowledge and passion: in person in his restaurant; in his many books, many of which have won awards; or through the media. Major French radio stations and TV channels (particularly BFM) can’t get enough of him, as his expertise has been proven. And because the man from the South-East, Philippe Faure-Brac, is warm and charismatic!
nature of the current year. Of course, the groundwaters are replenished. But the excessive humidity promotes vine diseases and calls for vigilance to increase chances of weathering the storm. There are two sunny spells on the dark horizon. The first concerns the «individual additional volume». A «harvest and quality» insurance scheme that the national committee for designations of origin somewhat expanded at its last meeting. The second is the 2016 «Health Law», which relaxes the Evin law on alcoholic drinks advertising. A measure which allows us to enhance our expertise and restore some pride when talking about our wines...
ZOOM
LE BISTROT DU SOMMELIER Being top in his field seems to be ingrained in Philippe Faure-Brac’s DNA. He was only 24 when he opened his «Bistrot du Sommelier» at 97 du boulevard Hausmann in Paris. He is the first representative of his field to design a restaurant based on wine and thousands of references. Its chef, Guillaume Saluel, creates a menu every month using seasonal market produce. Here, the product is highlighted and is prepared to work in perfect harmony with the sommelier’s wines. Open every day for lunch and dinner. Closed at weekends. Tel: 00 33 (0)1 42 65 24 85 www.bistrotdusommelier.eu
2
vertical MY TASTING
FOCUS
IN 5 VINTAGES
CHÂTEAU PAVIE Taken over in 1998 by Chantal and Gérard Perse, this nineteenth century winery was classified as a Premier Grand Cru A in 2012. The 42-hectare vineyard is located on the southern coast of Saint-Emilion. It has been redesigned and replanted with merlot (60%), cabernet franc (25%) and sauvignon (15%). The harvest is manual and the grapes are sorted. The yields are limited to ensure perfect quality. Its wines have a «fantastic aging capacity». www.vignoblesperse.com
PAVIE 1998 Gérard Perse’s first vintage. An exceptional year on the Bordeaux Right Bank. A rich, intense nose; spicy aromas, notes of cherry and Morello cherry. Well-rounded mouthfeel. Fresh red fruits with notes of mild tobacco. Fine, silky tannins.
PAVIE 2000 This vintage shows the complexity and wealth of the Pavie terroir. Deep ruby color, aromas of fresh, ripe red fruit. Soft, toasted and grilled mouthfeel. A perfect balance between tannins and acidity.
The Château Pavie is experiencing a real renaissance which has catapulted its wines to the best in the world. In 2013, the house was entirely renovated featuring contemporary simplicity and Bordeaux classicism.
PAVIE 2005 A classic vintage! An intense nose with notes of blackcurrant and blueberry. Direct mouthfeel. Red fruits accompanied by chocolate notes. To be kept in the cellar for a long time.
PAVIE 2007 This vintage shows the quality of the work of Gérard Perse’s team. A difficult year in Bordeaux. Pavie has achieved ripe, juicy aromas on the nose. A supple attack in the mouth. Amazing depth of red fruits, slightly peppered. After a good aeration, serve this wine with a powerful meat.
The château Pavie 2005 vintage is a classic vintage! Its nose offers a great intensity with blackcurrant and blueberry. It has a direct palate. It features red fruit and chocolate notes. To be kept in the cellar for a long time.
PAVIE 2010 A great vintage. Nature has spoiled the Saint-Emilion winegrowers. Pavie has taken this wine to a great maturity, keeping the fruit fresh and juicy. A beautifully textured palate, firm tannins. Keep this wine for twenty years to savor one of the greatest Bordeaux.
3
my favourite IDENTITY CARD
ON THE SCANNER
On the banks of the Charente in France, the Hine family house has been discreet and daring since 1763. The only cognac house to supply the Court of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, Hine has always distinguished itself by its philosophy of a vintage in a region where blending is king. In the village of Bonneuil, the house draws the essence of the limestone soils of Cognac’s premier cru, the «Grande Champagne» to create delicate eaux-de-vie. www.hine.com
A great cognac is initially a great white wine... It is in this sense that cellar master Eric Forget isolated some plots of the Hine vineyard to reveal the finesse, precision and character of the «Grande Champagne» terroir. The second installment of the collection after the 2005 edition, Bonneuil 2006 is frank, with bountiful candied apricot and soft nougat accents. It has lychee notes on the surface and honeyed flavors contrasting delicately with an obvious mineral tension.
COGNAC HINE
DOMAINES HINE BONNEUIL 2006
GASTRONOMY
19
ALLIANCES
Of course, there would be that fine warm roasted peach tart. Or that pineapple carpaccio with a touch of saffron. But let’s be a little whimsical and dare to... Refrigerate Bonneuil 2006 the day before lunch, then pour the iced - almost syrupy - cognac to pair with a few oysters. The mineral notes of one bring out the salty flavors of the others. Tuna or Pata Negra sashimi fans will be flummoxed by this exceptional cognac.
Corresponds to the number of barrels produced for this limited edition of 2006 Bonneuil.
This singlevintage cognac, single varietal is singular. It accurately expresses the terroir in a unique vintage. Floral, with notes of yellow fruit and toast, it is lively and frank. Refreshing 4
my guest DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER Praise of time
stainless steel tanks. Depending on the year and the grape varieties, we can make our varieties. We have just bought a destemmer and an optical sorter which are unbelievably accurate. All things being equal, they will exceed our greatest wines (2009 and 2010).
This classified grand cru from Graves, PessacLéognan, is an ongoing, long-term work. Each action is performed to respect the rhythm of nature and allow its excellence to shine through... Interview with Olivier Bernard, owner of the family winery. How can we define Domaine de Chevalier? The alchemy between humans and a great terroir. Chevalier is a contiguous clearing in the middle of the forest, without neighbors. The forest helps through its biodiversity and microclimate, which are ideal for us. Our wines are made from a successful grape at the end of its maturity. A great red Bordeaux wine requires 120 days. We have the ability to wait. Have your domain’s 150 years had an impact on wine? I like investing in the long term. An old vine is best for a great wine: the root plunges deep into the soil structure. A well established vine has more chance of revealing its nature. Each year, man must pledge to not break the process and be in harmony with the fruit.
OLIVIER BERNARD DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER
Patient, passionate, Olivier Bernard is a builder who roots the family group’s properties in the twenty-first century. Since 2012, he has also chaired the Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux and its 134 chateaus.
What about your second vineyard in Sauternes, le Clos des Lunes? A large terroir, a great historic vineyard and organic, of course. It offers preserved winemaking know-how. By successive selections, we handpick our beautiful sémillon (2/3) and sauvignon (1/3) grapes. Your plans? To progress in terms of quality, precision and organically and also to better express the character of the great terroirs.
DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER Since it took flight in 1865, the Domaine de Chevalier has only ever known two families and four managers. When it was bought out by the Bernard group in 1983, it covered 18 ha. In 2016, 53 ha are red and 7 ha white. Some 80% of its high-end wines are exported. The Bernard family is also in charge of the Solitude winery and the château Lespault-Martillac, «a 9-ha jewel». And more uncommon is the Close des Lunes, a great dry white wine made since 2011 from old vines and on a large terroir in the Sauternes country.
How can you describe your wines? In a glass of Chevalier, the natural element is deep, with a true identity. Nature does it all. Man reveals it... What effect do your investments have on your wines? I will make the finest wine of my life tomorrow. We have a concrete vat (2013), a wooden vat (2016) and
www.domainedechevalier.com
5
the view TASTING MEMORIES. I like the style of Bollinger champagnes. A unique, complex champagne. This champagne is generous, dense, powerful and is dominated by the Pinot Noir from the AĂż terroir. The complexity comes from the vinification, from the work on the fruit. The maturity gives it a strong identity. It is always a pleasure to enter this cavern. Bollinger is one of the houses that stands out for their uniqueness. Philippe Faure-Brac BOLLINGER R.D. 2002 Only the greatest vintages are elevated to Bollinger R.D.: the 2002 vintage is certainly one of the most promising vintages from the last decade. www.champagne-bollinger.com
6