PlateIt
MAGAZINE
The Modern Farm
Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture
FOOD CULTURE CURATION November 2013
8 HOME EC-ULAR
19 THE INTERVIEW
Thanksgiving Edition
“Top Chef” Season One survivor Dave Martin takes us back to the beginning of a reality phenomenon.
GASTRONOMY
Molecular Gastronomy. It looks harder than it is. It sounds even harder than it looks. We’ve reinterpreted the turducken, invented the seasons first ‘snowfall’ and created the world’s cheapest ‘caviar’ out of cranberry juice and vodka. Endgame = you’ll be the Walter White of food.
“I’m not Wolfgang Puck. That’s someone that I look up to. A Top Chef to me is not a celebrity, it’s just not the same. Emeril, Rachel, those are people in that mold. Someone that’s just rolling off of Top Chef, you’re not a fucking celebrity.”
28 READ ME
Thanksgiving Bookshelf
Since we take our Thanksgiving gorging very seriously, we don’t believe that our holiday cheer can be contained within the pages of just one cookbook. Thanksgiving does not have to be about turkey. Plenty of other animals can be stuffed, smoked, seared, sous vide, roasted and deep fried.
NOVEMBER /Inaugural Issue
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Editor’s Letter The Sauce Drink Me Home Ec-ular Gastronomy The Centerfold Eat Me The Interview The Street Read Me Around The Web
CONTACT US:
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PlateIt Magazine is the love child of a food writer and culinary marketing insider who have an uncontrollable desire to share everything we know about food with everyone we know, and even those that we don’t know yet. We simply have to tell you about our favorite gadgets, restaurants, bars, cookbooks...or we will burst. You’ll also find product reviews, in-depth interviews and tempting recipes, lovingly plated up just for you. This is your official invitation to embrace every gluttonous instinct within a community of gastronomic pleasure seekers, wrapped up in pretty packaging that visually focuses on what’s most important to all of us...the food! We consider eating to be a complete sensory experience, whether at home or out and about. We pay attention to the music in a restaurant, notice the design elements, the color scheme, the paintings and photography on the walls…our plan is to explore the growing intersection between the culinary and creative arts, always in search of je ne sais quoi instead of je ne sais blah. Most importantly, we love the hard-working men and women of the culinary world who basically give up any semblance of a social life to cook for us in steamy, sweaty kitchens. Thank you, chefs, for feeding us so gloriously, and allowing us to see your artistic soul on a plate. We are a small operation running on love, booze, and our last good meal...and you are always welcome at our table!
Lesley Elliott Editor-In-Chief
4 | November 2013
Rachel Waynberg Creative Director
So who are we really? We are lusty gluttons with a lifetime membership to the clean plate club. We live to eat, so if our 401K’s look lean, it’s because we consume too much food and booze in general, and wholeheartedly plan to do it over and over again (our intestines are chock full of salary byproduct). We’ve never met a pork product we didn’t fall hard for. We don’t ask for “dressing on the side,” and we are never embarrassed to take home leftovers (um, what else do you eat the morning after?). We hope that the more you get to know us, the more you’ll love us. However, since this is a first date, we’ll start with the basics.
LOVE IT: Rachel – hot dogs Lesley – cheese HATE IT: Rachel – chicken liver Lesley – green beans ALCHOLIC ACHILLES HEEL: Rachel – Tito’s Vodka Lesley – It’s always the damn tequila FAVORITE CONDIMENT: Rachel – Sir Kensington’s Ketchup Lesley –Horseradish, anything from Gold’s kosher white to wasabi FAVORITE KITCHEN TOOL: Rachel – a sharp knife, it does everything! Lesley – my butane torch, it burns everything! FAVORITE RESTAURANTS BEYOND OUR BACK DOOR: Rachel – La Condesa, foreign & domestic (austin); Pubbelly (Miami); Lesley – St. John (London); Envy (Amsterdam); Terra (napa valley) RESTAURANTS WE CAN’T WAIT TO TRY: Rachel – A’llonda; John Fraser’s Restaurant at The Standard (NYC) Lesley – Brooklyn Fare: the Manhattan edition; Tongue & Cheek (Miami); whatever Gabriel Kreuther does next.
THE SAUCE
Foodstuffs we favor.
The Sauce? What is the sauce? Well, it’s a lot like love (or cheese) in that it makes whatever exists in nature that is already wonderful even better, eclipsing all other previous notions of tasty. For our first attempt at smothering you with saucy affection, we’ve stayed close to our roots, focusing on foodstuffs originating in our own backyard…paying a little holiday homage to companies within the great state of New York.
This past spring, the Boyajian’s maple vinegar condiment company that ($7.25) will add a sweet and brought us the white knight sour element to any kind of yam among ketchups launched dish, but this is also great for a a mayonnaise extension cranberry-apple compote, or to line, including both a dress up the traditional creamy white “classic” and cranberry sauce. For a lazy spicy chipotle version ($7). man’s injection of holiday, just Either one of Sir Kensington’s mayos will drizzle on the starter salad to magically transform your turkey leftovers properly Thanksgiving-ify. into a dreamy day after club sandwich. If you hear Vamp up holiday flavor artisanal chocolate by replacing basic olive and then or canola oils with Stony automatically think Brook’s assortment of Poughkeepsie, unrefined oils ($11.95 you are not alone. $13.95) that begin with Scratch that, you chemical free seeds are alone. We (harvested from upstate were shocked to find that the beautiful New York farms raising bar of dark chocolate-coated Fall is baby veggies sans made by a husband and wife team in the genetic modification). heart of the Valley. Hudson Chocolates From pumpkin to Terrior Bar is loaded with candied apples, butternut to delicata squash, they are toasted pecans, cranberries and pumpkin the only squash seed oil producers in the seeds, all buried within cinnamon U.S. that are using 100% locally grown ganache ($34). The pumpkin pie will be ingredients. jealous.
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DRINK ME
The Ins + Outs of Boozing
We love bartenders for their magical ability to transform the basic experience of drinking into ‘cocktailing,’ so if you are also a boozehound in search of the best, here’s where you’ll find it!
High Rooftop Lounge
Venice Beach, CA With a picture perfect view of the Pacific Ocean, this bar on the roof of the Hotel Erwin is equipped with big fleece-y blankets to keep you cozy while sunset scoping. Make a table reservation if you can (this is the only place in Venice that has that beautiful panorama) but even those without pre-plans can hover in a nook by the tiny bar. We love the “stay warm” section on their cocktail menu, completely fall-erific. what to drink: Our picks are the Ginger-Pear Toddy made with Woodford Reserve, Canton and Xante Pear Liqueur, as well as the Spiked Cocoa, topped with a mound of whipped cream.
instantly tame any spicy snacks served; this younger cousin of Pok Pok is where you’ll find kap klaem (the small plate oriented, “drinking food of Thailand”) on the menu. The grapefruit based Hunny is a winner too, using the restaurant’s homemade Som Honey drinking vinegar for a dose of cocktail umami cool.
Pouring Ribbons
Alphabet City, NY The doorman standing outside looks intimidating, he’s big, and could crush your head between his forefingers. It’s all a ruse, he’s the nicest guy, just tell him how many are in your pack and ask him how his night is going. In fact, the laid back vibe of this speakeasy in general is what makes it one of Whiskey Soda Lounge our faves. No one here is checking out your Brooklyn, NY Andy Ricker’s answer to the question of what fabulousness, everyone’s just drinking damn good cocktails with friends. We also love the to do during the two hour wait for Pok Pok, comes forth in the shape of a bar whose decor drink menu matrix, sort of a cocktail Ouija board…are you looking for refreshment, reminds us of our coolest friend’s basement in high school (well, that party room probably comfort or an adventure? (There’s no wrong answer here.) wasn’t been blessed by Monks, this one is). what to drink: They have a LONG list It’s a busy scene, and if you can’t get a table, of inventive drinks with enticing names, be aware that there is a loose rule about which we love, but classics like the Sidecar, standing in line to order drinks, as opposed Manhattan and Old Fashion are executed to just clamoring about the bar. Upside - this perfectly by a bartender who really does want makes for organization of drunk people, but to know what bourbon or whiskey you prefer. the downside can involve a long, dry wait If you are a fan of chartreuse, your yearning time. It’s worth it. what to drink: We dig the Mango Alexander ends here, with an impressive array of both the green and yellow variety. with coconut cream for it’s ability to 6 | November 2013
The Elizabeth Street Sour 2 ounces bourbon 3/4 ounce simple syrup 1/4 ounce port squeeze of fresh lemon 1 egg white dash of Angostura bitters Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a cocktail glass and serve straight up.
Ignacio Jimenez is one of our favorite tenders’, making a different concoction to win our hearts every single day at The Daily (hence, the name). The dark and cozy bar side of Nolita’s Michelin starred restaurant, Public, also offers up amazing snacks like a buttermilk battered chicken sandwich with celeriac slaw, a stellar burger, and fish tacos with queso fresco and tomatillo salsa. Cocktails focus on the seasonality of certain boozes, so this fall, look for port, sherry, and cognac to make a showing as components on the rotating menu. That said, they are always happy to make you something special at The Daily, just tell them what you like, they aim to please. He made us a Thanksgiving perfect drink and shared the recipe, so now you’ll have a new favorite too. Hello there, Elizabeth Street Sour, welcome to our cocktail repetoire. 7
HOME EC-ULAR GASTRONOMY
Thanksgiving Edition
Molecular Gastronomy. It looks harder than it is. It sounds even harder than it looks. Although it may seem tricky to navigate, the chemical revolution is upon us, and some very famous chefs are doing very interesting things with stuff you’ve never heard of before. Turns out that the shifting of one substance into something else entirely, at the molecular level, isn’t really as complicated as you may think. It’s about precise measurements, having the right kitchen equipment, and an abundance of imagination. Get yourself a kitchen scale that measures out the tiniest gram of powder; buy or hack master a sous vide machine; you’ll need an immersion blender; a smoking gun; a dehydrator; a butane torch; a couple of large plastic syringes; you’ll also have to work with unfamiliar cooking ingredients like meat glue and methyl cellulose (all easily procurable on line). The ultimate goal is to combine everything you already know about cooking and infuse it with a twenty first century, culinary manifest destiny. Seek out what’s new and expand your kitchen horizons. Endgame = you’ll be the Walter White of food. In this Thanksgiving edition, we’ve created a feast that combines molecular gastronomy technique with some good ole’ fashioned ‘make it from scratch’ mentality. Not everything here requires chemical manipulation, because roasted Brussels with garlic should just be roasted, and stuffing begins and ends with a loaf of good, crusty bread. If it ain’t broke…well, you know. We’ve reinterpreted the turducken, invented the seasons first ‘snowfall’ and created the world’s cheapest ‘caviar’ out of cranberry juice and vodka. This isn’t exactly a quick and easy turkey day feast, but there was no hair pulling or outlandish swearing in our test kitchen either. So, whether you make a few things, or everything, it’s still less intimidating than memorizing the periodic table. EQUIPTMENT REQUIRED: sous vide machine + vaccum sealer/bags + immersion hand blender + dehydrator + silicone mat + plastic syringe + smoking gun + butane torch + digital kitchen scale + fine mesh strainer + 3” ring cutter + pastry bag w/medium round tip + fine mesh flour sifter
Note: Measurements below are listed in metric units when necessary and in the Americanized standard system whenever possible. We want to avoid a hostile takeover of your cooking comfort zone. 8 | November 2013
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Sourdough Bread Crumb Stuffing with Sausage + Sage
(makes 4 cups) 1 teaspoon. olive oil 1/2 loaf of sourdough bread 1/2 lb. sweet Italian sausage 1/3 of a yellow onion (finely chopped) 2 cloves garlic (minced) 1/2 celery rib (finely chopped) 2 tablespoon sage (finely chopped) 1 egg yolk Salt + pepper Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Using a food processor, break up the bread into large, coarse, crusty breadcrumbs. Dry in the oven for about 10 minutes, until golden brown.
Turducken
(2 servings)
1 boneless turkey breast, pounded to 1/4 inch thickness 1 boneless duck breast pounded to 1/4 inch thickness Remove sausage from casing and 1 boneless chicken breast pounded brown the meat in olive oil for to 1/4 inch thickness around 6 minutes. Add onion, garlic, 1/8 cup sourdough bread crumb celery and sage, and cook until stuffing softened, about 5 minutes. Transglutaminase (‘meat glue’) Latex gloves Combine breadcrumbs and sausage 1 tablespoon unsalted butter mixture with egg yolk in a large Salt + pepper bowl, season with salt and pepper. Preheat a sous vide water bath to Reserve 1/8 cup (per 2 person 72 degrees centigrade. serving) of this stuffing for use in the turducken. Weigh the breasts on a digital kitchen scale (ideally in grams). Lay Bake the remaining for 25 – 35 out the breasts next to one another minutes, until browned on top. on a cutting board.
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When using transglutaminase, be sure to wear latex gloves and avoid inhaling the powder. Measure out the amount of transglutaminase required. You will need 1% of the total protein weight. Dust the turkey breast liberally with the transglutaminase. Place the duck breast centered on top of the turkey breast and dust liberally with transglutaminase. Place the chicken breast centered on top of the duck breast and dust liberally with the transglutaminase. Add the stuffing on top of the chicken breast and dust with a bit more of the transglutaminase. Begin by rolling the meat towards you, keeping in mind that the stuffing should remain in the center of the roll. Tuck under the edges of
turkey meat to “close” the turkducken. Shape into a cylinder format using the palm of your hands, the meat glue will hold the layers together, and the vacuum seal bag will cement the shape.
Black on Black Gravy
(makes about 2 cups) 1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 large shallot (minced) 6 cloves soft, black garlic 1/2 tablespoon black pepper 1/2 cup heavy cream 2 cups low sodium chicken stock 1/2 cup apple cider 2 teaspoons cider vinegar 1 tablespoon maple syrup 0.8 grams xanthum gum Salt
20 grams rendered lardo 10 grams tapioca maltodextrin Salt + pepper Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Slice brussels in half, lengthwise, discard bruised outer leaves. Add water to the bottom of a baking dish, toss in garlic and drizzle with olive oil. Bake 20-30 minutes, depending on how charred you like your veggies.
Melt butter over low heat in a French saucepan. Add shallots and sweat for 3-5 minutes, until soft. Add vinegar and maple syrup, simmer for 2 minutes, stirring, until small bubbles form. Place the rolled turducken carefully into a vacuum seal bag. Remove and discard your latex gloves. Place the bag in a vacuum sealer. Once sealed, place in the sous vide water bath for at least three hours. Upon removing from the bath, open the vacuum sealed bag, carefully slice the turducken (cut it as though it were a sausage, approximately 1” thick). Season the individual slices with salt & pepper. Melt butter over high heat and sear the individual turducken slices on both sides for approximately 1 minute each.
Add the garlic, black pepper, stock, apple cider and cream, stir to combine and continue to simmer over low heat for 10 minutes. Blend on high in a standard kitchen blender until completely combined. Add xanthum gum to blender, blend again on medium, until combined. Season with salt to taste. Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Lardo ‘Snow’
(makes 4 servings) 1 lb. brussels sprouts 2-3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon water
Pour the rendered lardo into a mixing bowl (make sure you are working with fat that has cooled to room temperature). Slowly whisk in the maltodextrin until the fat converts to a powder (the mixture will begin to get clumpy before this, just persist with the whisking). When ready to serve, simply plate the sprouts in a serving dish and dust generously with the lardo ‘snow.’
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Sweet Potatoes with Bourbon Marshmallow + Smoky, Sweet n’ Spicy Pecan Crumble
For the marshmallows: 3 1/2 (28 g) envelopes unflavored gelatin 1/2 cup cold bourbon 1/2 cup cold water 2 cups granulated sugar 1/2 cup light corn syrup 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 large egg whites 1 tablespoon vanilla extract Pour the cold water and gelatin into a mixing bowl and allow to sit while you make the sugar mixture. In a medium sauce pan combine sugar, bourbon, corn syrup and salt. Heat over low heat and whisk until sugar is dissolved, about 3-5 minutes. Turn heat up to medium and let sugar boil for about 4 minutes. Measure temperature with a candy thermometer, remove from heat when it reads 240 degrees Fahrenheit.
add egg whites and vanilla extract to the sugar-gelatin mixture and beat until just combined. Using a sifter, sprinkle enough powdered sugar to cover and coat a 9x13 glass baking pan. Pour in marshmallow mixture gently, use a spatula to smooth the surface. Dust another layer of powdered sugar on top (to help prevent sticking) and let sit 2-3 hours until firm.
Using a ring mold, cut into indivdiual cylinders.
Using ring mold, cut out marshmallows into individual rounds.
For the pecan crumble:
For the sweet potatoes: Large sweet potatoes, peeled Unsalted butter 2 tablespoons maple syrup 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract Preheat a sous vide water bath to 183 degrees Fahrenheit.
Cut the short ends off of the sweet potatoes so that you have a long cylinder, then cut them in half, creating two large slices, each at least 3 inches thick. Place the potatoes and butter (1/2 Gently pour sugar mixture over the tablespoon per 2 potatoes) in a top of the gelatin-water mixture. Mix plastic vacuum bag and seal using on low until ingredients are blended. a vacuum sealer. Cook in the heated Then, mix on high and beat for 6-8 water bath for 3 hours. minutes. Mixture should grow in size Remove the potatoes and trim the and be white and fluffy. ends of each portion so they are all about the same size (approximately In a separate bowl, beat the egg 3 inches). Place flat on a board whites until stiff peaks form. Then (so it is a ‘tube’ facing upward). 12 | November 2013
When ready to serve, preheat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Combine maple syrup and vanilla. Using pastry brush, lightly distribute over the top of the potatoes. Bake for 5-10 minutes, until the edges caramelize.
1/2 lb. pecans 1 tablespoon water 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1/4 cup dark brown sugar 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1/4 teaspoon cumin 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon Pinch of salt ‘Toast’ pecans in saute pan over medium heat for 3-4 minutes, just until they begin to brown. Add butter to the pecans, stir to coat as the butter melts. Combine cayenne, cumin, cinnamon and salt together. Add to pan and again, stir to coat. Add sugar and water to the pan and stir together until the sugar dissolves, 3-5 minutes. Transfer the pecan mixture to a sheet pan lined with parchment paper or non stick aluminum foil. Allow to cool. Place pecans in small bowl and
place a large piece of plastic wrap so that it covers half of the bowl. Attach the flexible tube to the barrel of a smoking gun. Add a small amount of smoking chips to the smoking chamber of the gun. Turn the smoking gun on and using a match light the smoking chips. Place the tube from the gun in the bowl and allow smoke to infuse for about 30 seconds. Turn the gun off, remove the tube and cover the bowl fully with plastic wrap. Let smoke infuse the pecans for about 3 minutes.
To assemble final dish: Top each sweet potato with a marshmallow round. Using a butane torch, slowly scorch the top of the marshmellow until golden brown. Don’t over do this step, or the marshmellow will melt and lose shape. You want the edges to bubble but not ooze.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Brown spices on baking sheet for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, combine sugar and water in a small saucepan and heat until the sugar has dissolved. Toss in all other ingredients and allow to sit in the refrigerator overnight to infuse. Strain with fine sieve twice, before using.
For the pumpkin mousse: (makes 2 1/2 cups) 1 cup pumpkin puree 1/2 cup condensed milk 1 cup heavy cream, divided into 1/3 cup and 2/3 cup 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/8 teaspoon ground ginger
until stiff peaks form, 3-5 minutes. Gently fold the whipped cream into the pumpkin mixture until fully incorporated.
For the puffs: 210 g (7.4 oz) spice infusion 5 g Methyl cellulose F50 1.25 g Xanthan Gum Bring spice infusion to a simmer in small saucepan. In bowl of stand mixer, mix spice infusion with methyl cellulose using an immersion blender. Add the Xanthan Gum and mix thoroughly with immersion blender. Attach bowl to mixer fitted with whisk attachment and mix for 10 minutes or until stiff peaks form. Transfer to pastry bag fitted with medium round tip.
Place pumpkin puree, condensed milk, 1/3 cup of cream, 1 tbl brown sugar, 1 tsp cinnamon, 1/8 tsp nutmeg, and 1/8 tsp ginger into Break cooled pecans into crumble and scatter on top of marshmallows. a medium saucepan and stir over medium heat. Simmer gently for 5 minutes. Pumpkin Pie Puffs
For the spice infusion: 1 ¼ cups water ½ cup sugar 5 cinnamon sticks 3 whole nutmeg 3 star anise 12 cloves
Transfer to a mixing bowl and allow to cool completely, then cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for 2 to 4 hours. Once the pumpkin mixture has chilled, place the remaining 2/3 cup cream into a stand mixer and whip
Line a dehydrator tray with a silicon mat, you can also use parchment paper if your dehydrator didn’t come equipped with mats. Pipe bite
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sized mounds directly on to the silicone tray liner. Make sure the height of the mounds is not larger than the gap between the trays in your dehydrator. Dehydrate at 66 °C (150 °F) for 4 hours until crisp.
To assemble final dish: Using the end of a plastic straw, gently make a hole in the bottom of each puff by twisting the straw, don’t push too hard or you will poke through the top of the puff.
For the ginger simple syrup: Fresh peeled ginger 1/2 cup water 1/2 cup sugar Combine sugar and water over low heat, stir to combine, add ginger and warm gently until the sugar completely dissolves. Simmer at lowest heat for 20 minutes to infuse the gingery flavor. Strain and let cool. Mix all the cocktail ingredients in cocktail shaker over ice, serve straight up in a martini glass, garnish with Cranberry-Vodka caviar.
For the caviar: 3 grams unsweetened 100% cranberry juice 3 grams vodka 325 grams of water Fill an injection syringe with pumpkin 3 grams sodium alginate mixture and fill each puff. Serve Calcium chloride bath immediately (they get mushy if you Water bath leave them sitting!). Harvest Cocktail with Cranberry-Vodka Caviar
(makes 1 drink) 1 ounce vodka 1/2 ounce pear puree 2 tsp. Calvados or apple brandy 2 tsp. ginger simple syrup
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For the calcium chloride bath: 16 ounces of water 2.5 grams calcium chloride To make the caviar, mix water and sodium alginate with an immersion blender until combined, refrigerate for at least one hour so that the air bubbles in the solution have time
to evaporate (this solution can sit overnight in the fridge). Create calcium chloride bath by combining water and calcium chloride in a deep, non-reactive bowl. Combine cranberry juice and vodka with the sodium alginate solution. Mix gently with a spoon until the texture is thick and slightly gelatinous. Use the back of your spoon to stamp out any existing bubbles. Fill an injection needle (or a squeeze bottle in a pinch) and then slowly drop the solution into the calcium chloride bath from a height of 3-5 inches. Let the caviar sit for about 1-2 minutes, then lift out gently with a fine sieve, and drop into a water bath to rinse. Using the sieve, remove the caviar beads and use to garnish the martini. Serve immediately.
THE CENTERFOLD you know you want a piece The octopasta at Marea is a food supervillian, you definitely don’t see it coming. This undercover lover doesn’t even look all that good on paper, “fusilli, red wine braised octopus, bone marrow.” It’s a wonder that someone would think to combine fatty globs of gelatinous tissue with a seafood based-anything, but hey, we trust Michael White (and you should too). This gorgeous plate has lived on the menu since the beginning and it will be hugely disappointing if the fusilli ever retires. We are always in awe when around such a beauty; a buttery rich marriage of marrow and tomato sauce offers a surprise lesson in cohesion, and the wine soaked octopus transcends tenderness. This baby curls our toes every time. Us: What are your biggest turn ons? The fusilli: “Fresh basil, breadcrumbs and black pepper.” Us: What are your biggest turns offs? The fusilli: ”Grated parmesan - so unneccessary on me! Pinot Grigio. No lightweight wines please, I would overwhelm. ” 15
EAT ME The Ins + Outs of Consumption We eat out quite a lot, with both fervor and intent. And our plan is cover anything and everything worthy, from sea to shining sea. We will be leaning towards coverage of the NYC dining scene, both because this where we are based, and because we feel the big city sets the pace for the rest of the country. That said, if there is a fantastic restaurant in the middle of nowhere that you need to know about, we will write about it. New restaurants, old favorites...whatever is on our plate will hopefully come to be on your future eating agenda.
Piora
Tribeca, NY Yeasty smells float across the room before the physical source of such whiffs can be identified. A lumpy mound of “monkey bread” arrives tableside looking appealing but rather unassuming, reminding us of a steakhouse chain opener. With a side of whipped lardo and seaweed butter (slather on both at the same time for genuine salty satisfaction) this loaf begs for your fingers and banishes any argument against filling up on useless bread carbs. Call us surprised and even a little smitten. When the Goodwin departed they left behind a cozy vibe, which now lives on in the form of Piora. Restaurateur Simon Kim took chef Chris Cipollone (previously of Tenpenny) on a two week eating expedition in Korea before coming back to the kitchen to develop the Modern American menu. With French technique, Italian influences and Asian ingredients all at play, the question develops as to whether or not the melting pot theme actually melds? This was our eating conundrum. 16 | November 2013
BARBEQUED OCTOPUS
The combination of flavors may leave you guessing; a candied pine nut crumble helps to provide texture to a slick barbeque coated mound of curling octopus tendrils. Duck “confit,” resembles a meat patty that is seared until crispy after removing trace elements of the duck fat it swims in while cooking. A pool of tangy sweet plum sauce sits underneath, and tiny bits of skin, a sprinkle of what basically amounts to duck chicharrónes, liters the plate. Scallops with sweet corn niblets and creamy puree are cooked just past translucent in
chow mein looking noodles, constructed in white chocolate, were reminiscent of eating condensed milk straight from the can. One companion was just offended in general, “it smells like Bengay.”
SUCKLING PIG
spite of a crusty high heat blister; the halibut has gently bronzed edges and a ringlet of squash center stage. Both are ideal examples of how wonderful it is when fish and seafood benefit from a less is more philosophy. However, some dishes do seem to ascribe to a more is more approach, wintery dishes… substantial in nature. A long ingot of suckling pig is served with nests of skinny burdock root and radish on either side, giving it the appearance of a messy, but gorgeous, savory canoli. A dark purple and brown pile of mushrooms and duck sausage gets a surprising layer of sweetness from charred fig. Spigarello (that’s what would happen if broccoli and kale had a baby) offers up a little bitter contrast to what otherwise would be an extremely heavy, possibly overwhelming bowl of rigatoni. Sadly the main attraction on Piora’s dessert menu failed to live up to its’ multicultural promise; a deconstructed earl grey cake was unpopular from the get go. Scattered pomegranate seeds seemed out of place among the rough-hewn edges of brittle sponge cake, and sadly, the strong taste of shiso did not match up well. Long crunchy
Wines by the glass run the gamut in terms of price point, offering a nice range of reds and whites from the Finger Lakes to Burgundy (starting at $9 for a dry Riesling, going up to $25 for Emblem’s Napa Cab from 2010). We loved the powerful Cornas, but couldn’t ante up for more than one glass at the cost of $22, although the 2007 is not a bottle that’s so easy to find locally. Specialty cocktails are priced at $15 across the board. We couldn’t resist an aperitif, the Victor Laszlo, if less for the sparkly meets maraschino mix and more because, well, Casablanca’s still the movie bomb. Is it French? Is it Italian? Is that gochujang (Korean fermented hot pepper paste) we’re tasting? It’s best not to dig too deep. Everything here is pretty. You don’t know what it is exactly, but you want to eat it as soon as you see it. We like that, and we will definitely be back for more.
Where Else We’re Eating... The Musket Room
Nolita, NY Chef Matt Lambert is a New Zealand native and the menu here reflects his interpretation on homeland favorites. Although ingredients seem straightforward, there is clearly a lot 17
of work on the plate; every component is prepared with thoughtful precision. Spring for the six course tasting menu, $75 is a good deal. There’s a rustic meets modern aesthetic in the restaurant that’s speaks to us loudly. what to eat: Start with the velvety parsnip custard, and cold smoked scallops served with black garlic and knobby sea beans. Then try a deconstructed version of New Zealand comfort food, the steak and cheese ‘pie’ with a mound of lusty taleggio buried beneath a crispy pastry disk. We also love the perfectly prepared rosy hued venison flavored with juniper. You’ll want them to mix master a drink from the Musket Soda Fountain, just pick a “shrub flavor” (crab apple or perhaps smoked corn?) then select a fizzy upper from a range that includes ginger beer and bitter lemon soda, and a downer from the booze section, dark rum or tequila? It’s a toss up.
EVERYTHING from the charcuterie selection – it’s just too hard to choose between grandma’s terrine and classic pork rillettes.
Gorge
West Hollywood, CA Chefs Elia Aboumrad and Uyen Nguyen are currently running an all female kitchen, not by intention, but just because the “boys we hired didn’t really work out.” This tiny slip of a restaurant is really more of a dimly lit wine bar and the pair running it (who originally met in Paris while attending culinary school) are serving outstanding French fare to those who truly care about fat laden, silky meat, in all manipulated shapes and sizes. what to eat: It doesn’t sound nearly as exciting as the menu dictates, but order the lobster mousse, a dome crowned with pine nuts trapped within a tomato en gelée nipple. The frommage de tete is also a must; it lacked Montmartre the weight and inherent oiliness one often Chelsea, NY encounters in head cheese. A wild pheasant Chef Michael Toscano recently handed over terrine is layered with black truffles and the reigns at Perla to take Tien Ho’s place pecans for crunch, and the duck sausage with in the kitchen at Montmarte, so out are smooth potato puree qualifies as sublime the Asian influences and in are eats that a comfort food. For dessert, order Nguyen’s Francophile will adore. Although we are happy St. Honoré style pastries, cream filled puffs to see Toscano has taken the traditional menu covered in chocolate, or crunchy caramel, or route, we sure are going to miss that Hong meringue…all delicate and delicious. Kong PB&J French toast that used to be on the brunch menu. what to eat: Begin your meal with the difficult choice of ordering the unexpected, like an octopus version of pasta Provençal, or sticking to bistro classics such as the mousse-y chicken liver with shallot marmalade, escargots or steak tartare. Lamb lovers will appreciate the use of leg, neck and tongue, whereas those simply in search of a superb burger will be rewarded with dry aged beef topped with “béarnaise cheese.” Try 18 | November 2013
THE INTERVIEW Peeling the onion It’s 2006; a new cooking show premieres on Bravo (the same year as another reality powerhouse appears on the air, “The Real Housewives of Orange County”) and suddenly, it’s sexy to be a chef (and to be a hot mess with kids, an unfortunate happenstance for everyone besides Andy Cohen). It’s strange to think that the public would so easily embrace and glamorize what has previously been considered to be an extremely difficult job involving endless hours on your feet, the absence of family dinners or holidays off, and a salary that is commensurate with that of a really well paid kindergarten teacher.
food related television. Previously, the definition of broadcasting desire shifted away from carefully produced cooking shows with soft music drifting through the background and scripted voice-overs. There were organized kitchen utensils, always clean and in their proper places, and a total absence of chaos or emotional turmoil. No one Yet, the “Top Chef” flame was ‘F-bombed’ audiences or Olympic opening ceremony ever cut a finger. The chefs sized from blast off giving were always in clean clothes. new meaning to the words, It’s wasn’t just unrealistic, it “pack your knives and go,” was a cooking utopia that probably only used before no average person could this between lovers who were replicate, and it certainly also serial killers. (Woody wasn’t indicative of what Harrelson & Juliette Lewis – actually takes place in apologies, we love you). restaurants. In professional kitchens, the word fuck That first season helped happens often. Chefs are to create a new genre of sometimes super
sensitive and sharp knives cut through skin just as easily as anything else. People who work in close quarters bump into each other, they spill things, they yell at each other. It’s a long day behind the burner. This is the first time people saw the chef struggle first hand, which is good, gives us all a little more appreciation for what arrives on our plates. But, it also revealed a 19
competitive world of pushy production technique and a salacious interest in the personality of anyone who surfaces on television. Dave Martin immediately become known for his sense of humor, big blue eyes, and the claim to fame saying that inspired a teeshirt phenomenon, “I’m not your bitch, bitch!” He advanced to the final three, and although Martin may not have taken home the prize, in this pageant, he was the most memorable personality. He almost certainly would have received the watching populace’s fan favorite award; alas, that designation did not start until season two.
would have happened if you had not been robbed by circumstance? Do you think being labeled the first “Top Chef” would drastically have altered your course after the show?
I knew when the executive producer came over and said, “Dave, it’s one more dish.” There were 38 seconds left and I’m like, ‘What? What?’ And I’m like, ugh, there’s three dishes, and I knew, it’s my fatal flaw, like in literature. It worked out fine because I accepted it, ‘I am going to be disqualified, this is how they are going to be able to get me out.’ But it’s not a real fatal flaw, it’s not like I was dying, it was just something that happened. I We decided to go back to made that mistake. I’d rather the source, a season one-er, be ejected from the show for to have an honest talk about making a mistake than for the “Top Chef” experience. having bad food. So that’s the Naturally, we decided to get thing that I can look back on. him a little bit buzzed, in I was never cooked off, I was order to facilitate frankness. never kicked off because my So let’s step back in time, and food was bad. I don’t know, revisit the circumstance that I would like to think that I started it all. Drink up, Dave, am doing well and pretty and tell us how you really successful without that, but feel… of course, I would have loved it, ya know, I don’t like not to Since there was a be number one. But I don’t misunderstanding and you know that it would. only made two, not the required three dishes to Do you think it’s a cruel compete in the final episode, injustice forcing contestants do you still wonder what to return to help the person 20 | November 2013
who just beat them in the final faceoff? I mean, Tiffany lost the quickfire challenge to you and Harold, a lot of fans were outraged at the choice to disqualify you…were you a little bitter that you then had to help team Tiffany attempt to win the whole shebang? Didn’t you want to piss in her food just a little bit? No, my thing’s always about being professional and being real, I would never want to have her lose because of something we did improperly, hence, me giving her the desserts…that type of thing. At that point, ya know, I am off the show, so if I’m going to come back, I am going to do my best. Granted we were out until like eight in the morning fucking boozing, but I had just been formally kicked off the show. I mean, I’m cooking, and you are giving me direction. Normally, I’m in charge, so for me to be a flunky and have you telling me what to do, that I can do in no matter what state of mind and amount of sleep. I am still going to do it the same. The errors that she made in that meal were hers. We seasoned the artichokes out of the fryer and then she came back and seasoned them again. She didn’t trust us, but we were not there to fuck with her.
Were you secretly thinking it was culinary justice when she lost to Harold?
trying to turn her into this other person. I mean, maybe it’s not the best choice of hostess. We are in front of I knew at the end of the day the house, and I am thinking that it just probably wasn’t that maybe it’s going to be going to work out for her. Ya Emeril or Wolfgang Puck or know, you have to be a nice Martha Stewart maybe, and person, you have to be nice. It then I see this teenage waif comes through in your food, and I’m like, ‘who the fuck your energy and your angst. is this?’ And we are all down Things like that…so, I think there goin’, ‘who is this?’ it showed. We had to do two And no disrespect, I really courses for each thing, so do love Katie and wish her there were so many errors the best but I’m like, ‘I watch and flaws that she made enough reality t.v. and I don’t in that meal just trying to even know who the hell… overcompensate. Just make whatever.’ And it was so hard a great meal, ya know? That’s for her. I would do this skit the part of the show that I cuz she didn’t seem to have was really looking forward natural gestures, so everyday to, just making a really great we’d get back to the house meal on my own terms. So and everybody would be that was the only thing I feel like, “Dave, Dave, do Katie like I lost. today! Do Katie!” So I would be like, {insert monotone Katie versus Padma, do you Hal inspired mocking voice} think you missed out? ‘Chefs, welcome. Back to the kitchen.’ You know, I would No, no, no. I am definitely just do this robotic caricature not a Padma fan. Katie was of her, it was just funny. I great, but they were trying mean, it’s not her fault, but it to put her into this character is what it is, so fuck it. I would that she wasn’t, and that was mock the show every day and what created an issue. She’s I had everyone cracking up, a really nice person and they and she saw it post show, and wanted her to be meaner, we’re still friends, I think it’s they wanted her to be this all good. stoic character and she’s like, what? Twenty years old or Tom, Padma and Gail have something like that? You’ve really led “Top Chef” since got a teenage bride married then. Do you think that to Billy Joel and they are triumvirate is what pulled the
show together and contributed to the overall success of the brand? Noooo. I think people come back for the contestants. I think the rest is just what it is. Unless guys want to jack off to Padma, but I don’t think-- they don’t watch the entire show for Padma. Tom has a little more clout and Tom is a great guy. People are not following the show for Gail Simmons, I’m sorry Gail. They’re not following the show for you. They’re following for the contestants. Potentially Tom a little bit. Padma for the sex thing. But aside from that, they’re watching the show for the action between contestants, not the judges. And the least of the judges is definitely Gail. I saw her at four events and she disregarded me at every event. She did not even say “hi” to me. She pretended like she didn’t know me at all. That’s how you really flip my switch. Having Gail do that to me…I mean, I’m not trying to get anything from Gail. But you say hi to me, come on, you know who I am. To see me, and then avoid me and walk away? That’s bullshit, I don’t play that game. I have nothing bad to say about Tom, but Gail…please. Did the producers try to egg 21
you on by letting you know when another chef had said something negative about your food or performance?
Is it really $18.95? Oh lord, that thing better do more than just open cans. I mean, I can’t slam anyone. I’ve done my own cookbooks, I have No, no egging on. What I can my own product line, so that’s say about “Top Chef” season me, and that’s my brand. And one is that it was real, it was hey, if you got someone that organic, there was nothing wants to buy a twenty-dollar manufactured. I mean, we can opener or a box of wine had to get them to give us cuz it says “Top Chef” on it, more wine, they didn’t even I can’t fault them for that. get that memo yet. I was like If it’s gonna sell, it’s gonna screaming down for the wine sell, ya know? But, kinda fairy every night, “send up keep in mind, you know, I more wine!” So they weren’t Whose accomplishments since don’t cook in sweatpants; even plying us with alcohol appearing on “Top Chef” do professional chefs don’t at that point. They kinda you most admire? cook in sweatpants…you learned what was needed to know what I mean, let’s be help us unwind and be more I would definitely say real. I always get sick when entertaining and open. But it Harold. Harold was always a it’s oversaturation, like “Top was not staged or scripted. gentleman and a professional Chef” tampons, I mean, throughout the show. And do we need that? Keep it There were certain people the fact that he has three within the brand because it’s who criticized your food and successful restaurants, it one thing to do cookbooks, questioned whether or not makes sense, that’s him, cookware and sauces, but you fit in with the “Top Chef” that’s his passion, to do you know, I am not launching persona, but now many of restaurants and do them well. the new underwear that you them are doing things similar I really admire Harold, I am can fart in and not smell. I’m to the home style comfort food proud of him pre and post fucking pissed that someone that you did. So do you feel show, ya know, all the way else thought of that. a certain level of vindication through, he was true. because they are now doing “Cream Cheese recipes what they previously knocked The “Top Chef” merchandise by “Top Chefs”…for any you for doing? franchise now includes occasion!” (sponsored by everything from a branded Kraft’s Philadelphia brand). I think something that’s very salad spinner, to flatware sets, These kinds of advertising ironic is that if we do fast even “Top Chef sweatpants.” partnerships are less about forward eight years, two of Do you see this extension as the recipe, more about the the people that were my viable? Do you think fans need relationship, do you think in biggest detractors and talked a “Top Chef” can opener for this case, the folks in Bravo’s shit about me, my food $18.95? marketing department are and what I was doing, were actually running the show? 22 | November 2013
Steven and Tiffany. Tiffany has a fucking BBQ joint in Boston, I love BBQ, but still, she’s running a BBQ joint. And at the same time, Steven is opening a pizza place in the financial distrcit, it’s another one of my favorite foods, but…whatever. So those people who talked shit are now doing BBQ & pizza. Meanwhile, I am doing, good, quality food, and making more money than them.
I would think yeah, once they get a sponsor on board, it’s the network that drives the content or lets them know what content will be able to provide to them as a sponsor. I’m sure the contestants know too that you’ll have to produce recipes or whatever it is. Do you believe in partnerships – I mean are you making cream cheese recipes at home? So, those partnerships – and it’s very funny, if you could watch some of the tapes from us on “Top Chef,” it’s like you’ll hear some of the things I talked about. I was like, ‘you guys, wait a couple of years. Soon, sponsored by Land Rover, Ziploc, Global Knives...’ I was making jokes every day. I’d be like ‘just wait you guys in three years it will be that, in five years it will be this, it will be every fucking big company that will want to give money and be part of this.’ This is talking about my present life and what I do, because I do have the luxury and opportunity to work with really great brands in the food and spirit world. So when they come to me, no matter what the rate of pay is or whatever, I make sure it’s a recipe that I’ve made or is in my stable, something that I do that is reflective
of me. Okay, so if someone comes to me and says ‘We want you to do a recipe for mayonnaise,’ no matter how much money I’m not gonna do a recipe for mayonnaise because I don’t use mayonnaise. You’re only as good as your recipe, so I feel like you have a responsibility to make sure however it’s crafted, you have to be real and true. The rumor is that Bravo uses those recipes and chefs’ names, but none of the revenue share is going back to the chefs. Do you feel that in a way Bravo is unfairly benefitting because an Edward Lee or Paul Qui already had established careers, and now the network has the ability to use their names long after that show airs? Yeah, yeah, yeah. So you know, it’s difficult when you sign up for these shows. They kind of own you, the name, the brand. It’s in the contract. Even though I said I didn’t read all the pages, I did glance at some
shit. But at that point you’re nobody, you know, most of these people are nobodies. Now it’s a different caliber, but even so. They’ve won James Beard but they haven’t been on TV. So now I’m exposed to a larger audience, a more nationwide audience, or global or whatever. So, you know, television is about making money and at the end of the day they’ve got to make money from whatever
sources. Especially a Bravo, which is a reality network overall now. So those chefs that stick up for themselves, do you believe it prevents them from being invited back to things like the “All Stars?” Do you think your outspokenness has hindered or prevented you from future opportunities with the “Top Chef” brand? 23
Yes! Yes it does. When you speak back to the network and don’t do what the network asks there can be ramifications. I did that in a different way. The new Prez didn’t like me, she was rude to me at a party and we had not great words. I called their external PR company and called that gal a bitch because she pretended that she didn’t know me. Part of the reason that I’ve been exiled from the network is because I stood up for myself. It is what it is – you can print whatever of that you want. But like, I’m not a bitch. And I did a lot of work and I was myself. If myself and the other people on season one had not helped to make it successful, there wouldn’t have been a second season. So, the network is very powerful and it can choose what it wants to do with you based on if you want to agree or disagree. I chose to not be a puppet and stand up for myself, and it cost me from probably being on other Bravo programming or other future “Top Chefs.” But I made that choice because that’s me. And do I get bummed? Yeah, but I have to be comfortable with my decisions. Tell us what you’ve been 24 | November 2013
working on…product line, through Perfect Puree. I’m consulting, cookbooks, events? doing a hot sauce line with this gal – we’re launching Present day I have six four new hot sauces. I’ve got companies. One is Dave’s a frozen yogurt consulting Homemade, cookbooks, project in the beginning of sauces, rubs, etc. That’s the year. my brand. Then another company is events, high end Regarding your own line and local and national events. I’ve the brand ambassadorships, done James Beard, auctions, did “Top Chef” kickstart that etc. Then I have kind of like for you? a philanthropic side. I’m on the board of Let It Flow Yeah, but I did it all. I called – we build water stations everyone. I mean I was a and sanitation stations in technology recruiter for third world countries. There thirteen years, one of the are a number of things like best on the West Coast. So I Make-A-Wish Foundation call companies that I want to and Ronald McDonald that work with, and that’s how I I work with. Then Impact built those relationships. Or Network is a new group they’ve been at an event and that I’m working with. want to work with me like We do e-schools in Africa Patron. They were at an event and such. Then I’m brand that I did with them and they ambassador for a number of were like ‘boom.’ they liked brands, Perfect Puree, I’ve me and that started The done stuff with Tabasco and Ultimat and we are going to Johnnie Walker. Right now start doing more stuff. I could I’m working with Patron and have been Joe Whatever. The their new vodka launch here “Top Chef” cachet helps, but in the city, Ultimat Vodka. also that they like me and I do It’s a partnership with Rag a good job. That’s part of it, & Bone. We’re doing a big but the rest of it is me being launch in January with these a hustler and bringing these cool Bloody Mary’s that I’ve relationships to fruition, my just crafted for them. And follow up. Like “Top Chef” my consulting, working with doesn’t follow up for me. I’m restaurants or bars. I’ve got the professional and that’s one local, I’ve got one in leading to more and more Boston. I just did work with deals and partnerships with California Pizza Kitchen brands that I like and I use.
“Top Chef” has always been good to me and continues to be good for me, because it’s just something you can have in your stable. As my brand is developing and growing, it’s taking a secondary role, but you still need some type of cachet – especially when you don’t have a restaurant and have built a brand off of just doing what I do. I’ve created my own niche, so “Top Chef” is in there. I’m thankful for it. Do you think this new age of celebrity chefdom helps or hurts the industry? Someone asked me about this yesterday and I said ‘I’m not a celebrity chef. I qualify myself as a chef that has some notoriety. but I’m not a celebrity.’ I come from Southern California, celebrities are people that film movies, t.v., and things like that. That’s not the category I’m in. I’ve been on television and I know how to cook. Like I always say to people that know me, I’m D-list. It’s better than nolist but I’m not a celebrity. I’m in the public eye and I got to be on TV, but they get a lot more free shit than I do. And they get paid a lot more. I’m not Wolfgang Puck. That’s someone that I look up to. That’s someone
that is a celebrity chef and has cooked for every A-list celebrity chef in the world. THAT’s a celebrity chef. A “Top Chef” to me is not a celebrity, it’s just not the same. Emeril, Rachel, those are people in that mold. Someone that’s just rolling off of “Top Chef,” you’re not a fucking celebrity. And based on how good or great you are, how nice or mean you are, that may determine your shelf life as well. I’m season one, how many others are there? I don’t know? {We tell him that currently, the show is in season twelve.} Are you serious? Whatever. How many people do you even remember out of those seasons? Thankfully, I’m still remembered so many years later.
that’s maybe what some people don’t understand. It depends on what they’re seeking, fame or whatever. Like, I’m seeking a really good living. I don’t need the fame. I mean all of my friends that I had eight or nine years ago are still my friends. It’s not about fame and things like that. That’s not what it was about for me. So I think there’s a different group, aside from fame and fortune, they’re seeking so much in it that it may not deliver. Especially now that it’s a machine – and there’s ‘season this’ and season twentyseven and season fifty-seven. I would do “Top Chef” today as long as I was paid the rate that was in my contract. Well, it would be a monetary issue and would depend on what the format of the show is. Would you do it again? Or Actually, I’d have to really would you do a current season, think about it. I’m not really knowing that the trajectory sure if I would or not. of the show has changed so much and that it has become Plans are in the works for much more of a manipulated national grocery distribution, circumstance? What if they but for now, shop Dave’s asked you to come back and Homemade product line be on “All Stars” for a chance on chefdavemartin.com, at redemption? iGourmet.com and OpenSky. I’d be an idiot not to do it again. It’s been so good for me and so good for my career. But you have to take the show and run with it and 25
The Street on scene eats We heart UrbanSpace for creating pop-up outdoor food-centric mini malls, where people can eat and drink collectively on city streets. From Roberta’s revered pizza to Momofuku Milk Bar’s crack pie, super cool culinary vendors hock their wares from dawn till dusk (okay, almost, from 11 a.m. until 9 p.m.). Snack with abandon all day long. Right now, you can check out Broadway Bites (pictured) in Greeley Square Park at 33rd Street and Broadway. Open through November 24th.
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READ ME
The Thanksgiving Bookshelf
It’s that gorgeous satisfying moment you’ve been waiting for, when the turkey finally hits the table, an outstanding array of colorful sides surrounding; everyone tilts forward in their seats, inching closer to the wafting smoky smell of golden bird. What comes before this shining moment of holiday bliss? The planning. Since we take our Thanksgiving gorging very seriously, we have a belief system to share. Sort of a holiday constitution, or bill of rights, if you will: 1. We firmly believe in menu roulette, don’t be married to the same recipes year after year (surprise the people you love with newfound kitchen prowess and revel in holiday cocktail fueled compliments). 2. We also believe that Thanksgiving does not have to be about turkey. Plenty of other animals can be stuffed, smoked, seared, sous vide, roasted and deep fried. 3. And we don’t believe that our holiday cheer can be contained within the pages of just one cookbook. Thus, we present a list of favorites that will help bridge the gap between classic and contemporary, allowing your culinary mojo to really flow. “Oooh’s” and “ahhh’s” to follow. Thanksgiving by Sam Sifton is entirely devoted to the holiday, providing a top to bottom recipe payload covering the turkey and sides, as well as touching upon etiquette and presentation. The former New York Times critic will even tell you what to do with those leftovers. With pretty illustrations by Sarah Rutherford, this is a Turkey Day cookbook dream come true (great host/hostess gift!).
Beginning with the words, “I’m Michael Symon, and I love meat!” Carnivore: 120 Recipes for Meat Lovers, Another Times writer riding the Thanksgiving is a great gravy train, Mark Bittman’s How To Cook cookbook Everything Thanksgiving delves deep into the for the main holiday theme with a comprehensive line up event. The of soups, stuffings, and sides. He also provides Iron Chef expert advice on everything turkey – from discusses the defrosting timetable to the all important how to choose your turkey and the various question – “to brine or not to brine?” prep methods, but there are a ton of game
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recipes in here that work just as well, like venison with dried cherry sausage or smoky squab breasts. Oh, and deep fried turkey enthusiasts will find an education on that technique here too. James Beard award-winning chef Gabriel Rucker has created a fantastic cookbook homage to his popular restaurant, Le Pigeon in Portland, Oregon. The section on “little birds” includes quail, pheasant and naturally, pigeon; although an entire chapter about rabbit or animals with antlers, could be recipe fodder for a creative, memorable holiday meal. Salted Caramel Apple pie? Sounds like a sweet holiday ending to us. The Four & Twenty Blackbirds Pie Book: Uncommon Recipes from the Celebrated Brooklyn Pie Shop has just been published in time for Thanksgiving, giving you a wealth of pies beyond pumpkin to choose from. If you haven’t heard of the “celebrated Brooklyn pie shop” than this is an excellent way to dip your finger in and pull a plum out.
apparently. The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Dessert Cookbook highlights “Heritage Recipes” inspired by their historic home and family tradition, including a pumpkin jelly roll, buttermilk pie with pecan crust and maple syrup French toast bread pudding. Holiday dessert heaven. Cider seems to be having a limelight moment in general, but Thanksgiving is truly the perfect time to embrace everything from farmhouse, to French, to sparkling cider. In Hard and Sweet: History, Traditions, and Making Your Own, you’ll get the 411 on cider throughout history, as well as an educational lesson in apple variations on a theme including cider vinegar, apple wine and Calvados. American tradition at its’ best, the original red faced Betty Crocker Cookbook is great for novices, offering a visual tutorial of how to roast a turkey and make apple pie. There are “Heirloom Recipes” and “New Twist” categories, so you can be as classic or as adventurous as your holiday mood dictates. Although pumpkin pie is on the docket, try out spicy pumpkin cookies with browned butter frosting, they’ll go better with your “day after Thanksgiving” turkey and grilled cheese sandwich.
Two guys leave the bustle of Manhattan for the country, start making goat’s milk soap, then cheese, then everything else 29
AROUND THE WEB We give good internet We cruise all day long, so you don’t have to. Instead, just check out our list of cyberspace faves, from online provisions to kitchen gadgets you’ll covet. The things we love we now pass along to you! We’ll also give a nod to the emerging power of self-sufficiency, highlighting the culinary company upstarts that we are currently following on crowdsourcing sites. Today’s bright idea is tomorrow’s coolest appliance, or cookbook, or restaurant success story…let’s support our peers! Power to the (food) people. ChefSteps For those seeking a cooking tutorial beyond the basics, check out this Seattle based site that offers video instruction on everything from “The Science of Poutine” (are you not already in???) to butchery lessons, ie. how to break down an entire albacore tuna. The community at large provides advice and recipes as well, making this a destination for anyone seeking a forum. ChefSteps is a collaborative environment that encourages experimenting, brought to you by a few Modernist Cuisine alums (that’s cred). Goldbely What do Louisiana crawfish, Texas tamales, Katz’s pastrami, and San Fran sourdough, have in common? They are all ready for the taking at this online marketplace that connects customers with purveyors from sea to shining sea. Whether it’s Buffalo wings from Buffalo, or Chicago-style deep dish pizza from Chicago, the folks at Goldbely are sending gastro-pleasure directly to your 30 | November 2013
front door. Plus, some of the offerings even ship for free. GetCulture Cheese makes everything better and now those enzymes, cultures and coagulants that equal everything cheesy are available for non-commerical customers. This sister site belongs to a company who previously only sold their yeasty molds, preservative free vegetable rennet, and annatto coloring to the trade. Your next cheese plate is about to take hobby-ing to an entirely new level. So if you’ve been thinking, “I’d love to learn how to make cheese at home, but I can’t find those damn fermented milk cultures anywhere,” well, you can now dive head first into the curds and whey. DIY Cocktail Bitters Kit This project began when a recipe on Serious Eats called for an herb not easily found in local groceries. When it became too expensive to buy in bulk, the owner decided to create her own company.
Thank you! Farm To Fork: A Food Documentary This film follows participants in The Sustainable Life Project, a job training program in Los Angeles. Run by the Tender Greens Restaurant group, SLP targets at risk youth; particulary 18-24 year olds who have recently left the support of the foster care system. TellSpec What’s in your food? Just wave the scanner over your food and poof! “Your apple has no pesticdes.” This device will give you the lowdown on everything from calorie count, to whether or not your food contains allergens like gluten.
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