PlateIt
MAGAZINE
This Way, Your Majesty The Berkshire Breed
FOOD CULTURE CURATION Summer 2014
8 IN THE KITCHEN
16 THE INTERVIEW
21 EAT ME
Chef Einat Admony takes us behind the burner at Bar Bolonat, revealing her kitchen fantasies as well as a few intimate surprises. She’s also supplied your soon-tobe-new favorite gazpacho recipe, summered up with strawberries.
True love lasts a lifetime and we agree with Lee Schrager, author of the recipe laden Fried & True, that the love of fried chicken is universal. We are extremely attracted to it in sandwich form, Son of A Gun’s bird on a bun is also on the menu.
Where are we eating right now? The Gander in NYC, Scopa in Venice and Fifty Seven in Los Angeles.
“I never, never, ever sing. Ever. I “It’s a topic that everyone don’t like karaoke.” loves, although not everyone loves to admit how much they love fried chicken.”
“Lamb pastrami melts on the tongue into a gelatinous cloud of meat and buttery fat; grainy mustard and skinny strips of kraut evoke the deli original, only with a more evolved attitude.”
SUMMER/The Sunshine Issue
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Editor’s Letter The Sauce Drink Me In The Kitchen Home Ec-ular Gastronomy The Centerfold The Interview Eat Me Read Me Around The Web
CONTACT US:
PlateItMag.com Facebook.com/PlateIt @PlateItMag
Time to bask in the sunshine and soak up everything that summer generously bestows upon us. Sun ripened fruits, fresh local veggies, the glory of cooking outdoors...and can anyone really say enough great things about smoking, slow roasting and grilling meat? Every inhale carries the smoky aroma inside of your head and heart; it’s summer food-magic. From bbq ribs you butchered, smoked and grilled all by yourself (our apologies to this month’s cover model), to homemade ice cream recipes from a local treasure, Ample Hills (cookbooks worth stay-caying for, page 27), we are completely preoccupied with the kitchen this season. Beach be damned. We’ve injected a modernism boost to an Italian classic summer starter, prosciutto e melone (fizz-filled melon balls with prosciutto chips, page 12) and have the recipe for another warm weather favorite, gazpacho. Only thanks to Chef Einat Admony, it’s seasonally in tune, made with strawberries and topped with finely chopped cucumbers (in action at her newest hot spot, Bar Bolonat, page 8). Since summer seems like the best time to celebrate the joy that is fried chicken, the pinnacle of all picnic foods, we sat down with aficionado Lee Schrager. He shares tales from the chicken road trip that became his new cookbook, Fried & True (page 16) as well as a few secrets he learned along the way. We also nabbed one of the recipes from a spot we always look forward to when eating in L.A., Son of a Gun’s Fried Chicken Sandwich with Pickle Slaw. We are a small operation running on love, booze, and our last good meal...and you are always welcome at our table!
Lesley Elliott Editor-In-Chief 4 | Summer 2014
Rachel Waynberg Creative Director
So who are we really? We are lusty gluttons with a lifetime membership to the clean plate club. We live to eat, so if our 401K’s look lean, it’s because we consume too much food and booze in general, and wholeheartedly plan to do it over and over again (our intestines are chock full of salary byproduct). We’ve never met a pork product we didn’t fall hard for. We don’t ask for “dressing on the side,” and we are never embarrassed to take home leftovers (um, what else do you eat the morning after?). We hope that the more you get to know us, the more you’ll love us. Here’s a cheat sheet so that you get to know us sooner, rather than later. LOVE IT Rachel – hot dogs Lesley – cheese HATE IT: Rachel – chicken liver Lesley – green beans ALCHOLIC ACHILLES HEEL: Rachel – Tito’s Vodka Lesley – It’s always the damn tequila FAVORITE CONDIMENT: Rachel – Sir Kensington’s Ketchup Lesley – Horseradish, from Gold’s kosher white to wasabi FAVORITE KITCHEN TOOL: Rachel – a sharp knife, it does everything! Lesley – my butane torch, it burns everything! OUR OUTDOOR EATING PICKS: Rachel – bar pitti, birreria (nyc) Lesley – da paolino (capri); l’oustau de baumanière (les bauxde-provence); the high line (nyc) FAVORITE ROOFTOP BAR: Rachel – the jane hotel, jimmy at the james, refinery hotel (nyc) Lesley – “upstairs” at the ace hotel dtla (los angeles); gallow green at the mckittrick hotel (nyc)
THE SAUCE
Foodstuffs We Favor
The Sauce? What is the sauce? Well, it’s a lot like love (or cheese) in that it makes whatever exists in nature that is already wonderful even better, eclipsing all other previous notions of tasty. To make the most out of grilling, go beyond the basic condiment. From umami packed mustards to the BBQ “bomb,” your summer is about to get saucy! Although the jams, marmalades and chutneys produced by Anarchy In A Jar may seen out there at first, you will quickly be indoctrinated into their company credo and agree that “anarchy is freedom from food tyranny.” Forget the mint jelly with that grilled lamb chop, try a little Spiced Beer Jelly ($7.95) instead. Made with dark beer, apples, grains of paradise and black cardamom, it will oomph up pork chops too. Want to send your burger into the taste stratosphere? Ditch the standard yellow and go for Anarchy’s Umami Shiso Fine Mustard, which actually has large round seeds of mustard uber charged with flavor. They use locally sourced produce whenever possible and hand make every small batch. Michael Stuart Steifman is a Brooklyn based chef whose catering business includes a line of spices and sauces inspired by his own love for smoking and grilling. He uses some amazing and unique ingredients like sumac, fenugreek, and urfa biber (Turkish smoked pepper), as well as old favorites like coffee, ginger,
and chipotles. Although his original Bitchin BBQ sauce is a winner, we are even more wild about the Cherry Bomb ($14), a sweetly tart mash up of bourbon, fruit and cider vinegar. Slather it on everything from a baby back pork slab to duck breasts. There are no additives or artificial flavorings in any of Stuart & Co.’s products; check out the rubs too, all good from fish to fowl. The Saucey Sauce Co.’s Brown Sugar Ginger Glaze ($24 for a 3-pack) is the spicy-sweet secret to giving your ribs, chicken wings and grilled veggies a serious upgrade. The family owned and operated company began when siblings Ken and Toan started fielding requests for their sauces at dinner parties. Their all-natural Vietnamese style sauces are based on mom’s recipes. They also make killer ketchups pumped up with jalapeño and haberno peppers. 5
DRINK ME
The Ins + Outs of Boozing
We love bartenders for their magical ability to transform the basic experience of drinking into ‘cocktailing,’ so if you are also a boozehound in search of the best, here’s where you’ll find it!
Nitecap
Lower East Side, NYC A small golden signature is painted on brick, it’s hardly noticeable, but if you look to the left of the doorway you’ll see “Nitecap” announcing itself quietly. Scene makers David Kaplan and Alex Day (Death & Co.) have designed this cozy new lounge without a ‘theme’ or the fussy fixtures. Instead, you’ll find a darkly mellow, completely comfortable cocktail hamlet with an ambitious menu. Since it’s located in the basement of Schapiro’s restaurant, snacks from above are available including soft pretzels, baked artichoke dip, smoked whitefish rillettes and a matzo ball soup better than your Bubbe’s. Reservations are taken for both tables and seats at the bar, but even without pre-planning they will try to find a place for you. And, they will be really nice about it. what to drink: Whether you are just “getting started” or ending the evening (“it’s been a long night, just point and call it good”), Nitecap’s menu will conjure cocktail rapture tailored to your state of mind. Apéritifs to walk you through that drinking door in the early hours include a Collins made with Jean-Luc Pasquet’s Pineau des Charentes and Marie Framboise, and the Pinkies Out, which has a base of orange wine, chamomile infused vermouth and Cocchi Americano, plus a tart grape verjus kicker. Trabanco Poma Áurea Spanish cider serves as a sparkling topper. Drinks to “hunker down” to range from the tropical tangle of a Tartan Swizzle, double loaded with scotch and the flavors of passion fruit, pineapple and lime, 6 | Summer 2014
to The Jukebox, a creamy cinnamon infused cola laced with Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao, Appleton VX and Hamilton Jamaican Rum.
Honeycut
Los Angeles, CA A bar that suits every mood is always a find, and whether you are looking to play pool or dance your ass off, Honeycut feeds all needs. The boys from Death & Co. also put a stamp on this downtown spot, partnering up with Cedd Moses and Eric Needleman (Seven Grand, The Varnish) who are currently running a formidable local nightlife empire. Walk along the side of the O Hotel to an alley entrance off of South Flower Street, where the long line and neon sign beckons. Behind door number one, you’ll find tufted black leather banquettes, smoky mirrors and the soft glow of low lighting. Behind door number two? Swaying silver metallic balls dangling overhead and a rainbow bright dance floor fit for Tony Manero. You’ll need a powerful antidote to cure that boogie fever. what to drink: In the lounge, you’ll find “Classy As Fuck” cocktails both shaken and stirred. The Slippery Slope really was - a deliciously toxic combination of Clear Creek Pear Eau de Vie, Dolin Blanc Vermouth, absinthe and fresh lime. A stunner is the richly rewarding Golden Boy, made with raisin infused Auchentoshan Scotch, Vinhos Barbeito 5 year old Madiera, Calvados, Bénédictine and a dash of bitters. Drinks for the “jaded enthusiast” may indeed blow your mind;
the luckiest will experience Dumb Luck, a creative compound that includes Old Grand Dad Bourbon, Bigallet China China, sherry and celery-coconut bitters. The discotheque serves an abbreviated menu of “cocktails on draft,” as well as an array of house made sodas like Ginger-Birch and Raspberry Lime Rickey that can be mixed with any booze you choose.
Swift’s Attic
Austin, TX Swift’s Attic is a somewhat hidden cocktail refuge amidst the craziness of the downtown scene. Tucked away on South Congress, nestled between the warehouse district and Sixth Street, you’ll find some of the most inventive cuisine and cocktails in Austin. Housed in what was once the Swift Premium Food Co., owners C.K. Chin and Stuart Thomajan transformed the interior with an eclectic mix of furniture, but kept the original, 100-year old brick walls and added iron caged chandeliers. The end result is a space that is both modern and rustic. Ladies, this is one place you don’t have to fear the bathrooms; they are so pretty that you may want to insert a double entendre here. what to drink: Global flavors come together in unexpected ways on the menu (don’t miss the strawberries and lardo with a pecan gastrique, or the puffy pigtail carnita tacos) and cocktails maintain a similar speed. Interesting elements intersect, from The Negroni Please, made with Barenjager Honey Bourbon, sweet vermouth, Campari, and rhubarb bitters (and it’s ON TAP!) to the Port-Man-Toe, a mix of Cointreau, lemon Juice, port wine, and a house infused roasted pepper and charred lemon Cinco vodka. Don’t leave without trying an Ice Ball Cocktail, “a frozen flavorful sphere of deliciousness topped with the appropriate spirit.” Our most coveted drink this summer is the Okie Dokie Artichokie, a fresh blend of berries and sage with a bitter kicker. Make it at home and share our cocktail sunshine.
Okie Dokie Artichokie 1 ounce Cynar 1 ounce Lillet 1 ounce Prairie Organic Gin 3/4 ounce sage + thyme simple syrup 1 strawberry (hulled) 3 dashes orange bitters Heat equal parts sugar and water with fresh sage and thyme over low flame until dissolved. Allow to cool, then strain. Muddle the strawberry with syrup and bitters in a shaker tin. Add Cynar, Lillet and the gin. Stir to combine and add ice. Pour all ingredients into a glass and garnish with sage leaves.
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Einat Admony Bar Bolonat, NYC May 14, 2014
8 | Summer 2014
IN THE KITCHEN Behind The Culinary Curtain The popularized portrait of a chef doesn’t truly capture the actual turmoil of living with the desire to make a restaurant succeed. Rarely do we get a glimpse of what happens in the kitchen; long days standing in extreme heat, menu and margin planning, purveying, staff training. Before they became recognizable names in the industry, they opened first restaurants, made mistakes, made sacrifices, celebrated success and on occasion, encountered failure. Einat Admony opened her vegetarian falafel shop, Taïm, in 2007 and quickly attracted a devout following of modern Mediterranean enthusiasts. She followed up with the tremendously popular Balaboosta in 2011 and has just unveiled Bar Bolonat, an exploration into the next level of Israeli cooking. Her restaurants are an extension of the family table at home, and she is successfully combating the notion that Israeli food is underrated in America. Get to know the chef, then get to know her dish.
Do you have a saying or motto in the kitchen that you use to motivate yourselves/others? “Yalla Yalla!” It means “let’s go, let’s go” in Arabic. Who is the person that you’ve had the most fun working with in the kitchen? Guy Zarfati. He has
been by friend for twenty years. We met in culinary school, and he is my best friend in the world. Four years ago I brought him, his wife and two kids over to the United States from Israel, and now he runs the kitchen at Balaboosta. Have you ever made anyone cry at work? Have you cried?
Do I look like someone who cries? I’ve never made anyone else cry. If you could wear whatever you wanted in the kitchen, what would you wear? Same thing I do now, my chef whites. I’m very traditional and old fashioned. I don’t like it when chefs wear fedoras or scarves or 9
other ridiculous things in the kitchen. I like my coat and would probably just keep wearing it. One food you would never eat or never serve? Truffle Oil. What’s something that your colleagues would be surprised to learn about you? That I’m not wearing underwear. Kidding. That I was living in an RV, traveling around Europe for four years. If you could spend a night working in the kitchen with any chef in the world, who would it be and why? I would say Ferran Adrià, and the reason is because it is the opposite of everything I am. I cook from the soul and heart, mama’s cooking, presentation is not the first thing. Molecular Gastronomy, 10 | Summer 2014
the presentation... to see that would be fascinating. Are there any topics off limits in the kitchen? What are they? Nothing is off limits in my kitchen. On average, how many hours a night do you sleep? On average, five to six hours. It’s 3:00 a.m., you are not sober, your go to snack is... I don’t eat late, but I if I really, really want something, I crave a big juicy hamburger. It’s so weird, because I love vegetables, but if I am really drunk, I want meat. Who or what do you fantasize about in the kitchen? My dear, gorgeous, hot and irresistible husband, Stefan, or
Jason, our host. Either one. Is there a processed and completely antihealthy food that you will admit to loving? I eat pretty well. I would say nutella, but everyone loves nutella so that doesn’t really count. What is your go-to karaoke song? I never, never, ever sing. Ever. I don’t like karaoke. But if I have to, it’s Queen’s “Under Pressure.” What’s your favorite curse word in the kitchen? What the fuck? What is the most outrageous or memorable thing you’ve ever heard someone say about your food? “It’s like an orgasm in my mouth.”
Tomato Strawberry Gazpacho 5 large tomatoes, lightly scored 5 strawberries, plus strawberries for garnish 1 jalapeño chile, cored, seeded, and coarsely chopped 1 garlic clove, coarsely chopped 1⁄3 cup olive oil 1⁄4 cup white balsamic vinegar 1 1⁄2 teaspoons kosher salt Pinch of freshly ground black pepper 3 cups ice cubes Garnish (optional): Finely chopped red onion Finely chopped cucumber Croutons Bring a large pot of water to a boil, and then carefully drop in the tomatoes. Boil just until the skin starts to crack and peel away, about 3 minutes. Remove the tomatoes from the pot and rinse under cold
running water. When they are cool enough to handle, carefully peel away the skin and cut out the core. Slice the tomatoes into quarters and place them in a food processor. Add the strawberries, jalapeño, garlic, oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Puree the mixture until smooth. Next add the ice cubes and pulse until all the cubes are completely crushed. To plate: Divide soup portions and garnish the surface with sliced strawberries. You can use any or all of the suggested options as additional garnish. Serves 4 to 6 people. Note: If you want this gazpacho in a jiffy, Chef Admony says you can skip the entire first step and just go straight to the food processor, skin and all. 11
HOME EC-ULAR GASTRONOMY
SummerEdition
Molecular Gastronomy. It looks harder than it is. It sounds even harder than it looks. Although it may seem tricky to navigate, the chemical revolution is upon us, and some very famous chefs are doing very interesting things with stuff you’ve never heard of before. Turns out that the shifting of one substance into something else entirely, at the molecular level, isn’t really as complicated as you may think. It’s about precise measurements, having the right kitchen equipment, and an abundance of imagination. Get yourself a kitchen scale that measures out the tiniest gram of powder; buy or hack master a sous vide machine; you’ll need an immersion blender; a smoking gun; a dehydrator; a butane torch; a couple of large plastic syringes; you’ll also have to work with unfamiliar cooking ingredients like meat glue and methyl cellulose (all easily procurable on line). The ultimate goal is to combine everything you already know about cooking and infuse it with a twenty first century, culinary manifest destiny. Seek out what’s new and expand your kitchen horizons. Endgame = you’ll be the Walter White of food. The sweet satisfaction of ripened melon pairs beautifully with the salted lardy richness of prosciutto, it’s a popular summer staple that we’ve injected with a little modernist love. Carbonated fizzy fruit balls with crispy meaty “chips” are an easy as can be appetizer, perfect for warm nights and a bottle of cold rosé!
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
ISI gourmet whip-plus or similar device + carbon dioxide cartridges (“soda chargers”) + dehydrator + silicone mat + 3” ring cutter + melon baller + parchment paper
Note: Measurements below are listed in metric units when necessary and in the Americanized standard system whenever possible. We want to avoid a hostile takeover of your cooking comfort zone.
12 | Summer 2014
FIZZY MELON & MINT SALAD with PROSCUITTO CHIPS
(makes 4 servings) For the Fizzy Melon Ball Salad: 1 honeydew 1 cantaloupe Fresh mint leaves
Note: You’ll need to
prepare the carbonated melon balls 24 hours in advance of the time you wish to serve the final dish.
Slice both the honeydew and cantaloupe in half and using the melon baller, twist and remove individual balls. Place the melon balls inside the ISI. Seal the cap firmly and then screw in 1 carbon dioxide capsule. Unscrew the capsule and refrigerate for 24 hours.
Once the carbon dioxide has infused overnight, holding the ISI upright, carefully ‘bleed’ the carbon dioxide fully. Remove the top and plate the melon balls into your serving bowls.
For the Prosciutto Chips: 1 pound thinly sliced Prosciutto di Parma Coarse black pepper Fold a slice of cold, refrigerated prosciutto into thirds on a cutting board, and fill in any spacial gaps with excess trimmings. You do not want the meat to be room temperature, or it will be too 13
soft to work with. (Do not freeze the prosciutto, or it will become too unpliant). Press downward with your palm to cement the layers together.
Using the ring mold, cut a round out and gently place on a parchment paper lined cookie sheet. Sprinkle with black pepper. When you have worked your way through the entire pound of prosciutto, you are ready to dehydrate! Carefully place the prosciutto rings on to the silicone tray inside of the dehydrator. Set to 160
14 | Summer 2014
degrees, and allow to dry for approximately 6 hours, until crisp and firm.
To assemble final dish: Plate the melon balls and garnish with fresh mint leaves. Carefully arrange 4-6 “chips” on the side. You’ll want to serve this dish immediately, as the carbonated effect wears off gradually.
THE CENTERFOLD you know you want a piece A mysterious stranger, Fung Tu’s “Original Egg Roll Version 2” enters the room and you can’t stop staring. Although this dish feels familiar, one wouldn’t immediately identify it as an egg roll. Fung Tu’s roll style is bigger, fuller, exploding with color and promise; but the goal is to find out what exactly lies beneath the surface. Luxuriously lounging on its side, seductively sliced open and parted just for you, a stuffing of unknown ingredients peeks out attractively, beckoning with sight and smell. Pieces of soft pork belly scented with cumin bind to a mixture of leeks, olives and chiles. The slender egg and chive studded crêpe is dipped in a flour and water batter before frying, to create a beautifully crispy exterior without the use of a wrapper. This beauty prefers to go it au naturel. Us: What are your biggest turn ons? The Centerfold: “Chili oil, maybe an extra side of my lemony mayo. And Kiuchi Brewery’s citrus infused IPA, Hitachino Nest Dai Dai.” Us: What are your biggest turns offs? The Centerfold: “Traditional Chinese hot mustard is too much for me, the flavor of my crêpe is delicate.” 15
THE INTERVIEW Peeling the Onion Although he’s a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Lee Schrager has spent his career championing other chefs as the founder of both the New York City and South Beach Wine & Food Festivals. If you haven’t actually heard his name before (and in that case, seriously, where have you been?) he also happens to be on the board of directors for the Food Bank for NYC, the city’s leading hungerrelief organization, as well as having a ‘day job’ as the VP of Communications for Southern Wine & Spirits (the largest distributor in the United States).
So how does a fried chicken fanatic pay proper homage? Read on. Then, turn the page for a recipe courtesy of chefs Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, owners of two of our favorite restaurants in Los Angeles, Animal and Son of a Gun (they are also part of the “three guys” in Trois Mec, a collaboration with Ludovic Lefebvre). Tell us about your fascination with fried chicken, how did that get started?
Well, I think I’ve always had a deep down fascination and love of fried chicken, as you read in the forward of the book. Growing up as a child He’s adding serial cookbook on Long Island, I remember author to his resume, having my parents going out to previously published a food dinner on Saturday nights and festival inspired book, and always calling Chicken Delight now he’s currently working on to deliver food for us. So that a breakfast theme. Yet in his was my first introduction to newest work, Fried & True: fried chicken, with a fast food More Than 50 Recipes for company on Long Island. America’s Best Fried Chicken That’s when I first met and and Sides, it’s all about the fell in love with the fried bird. bird. He calls fried chicken It has carried through ever his “one true love” and says since. that “I’m not much of a cook myself, but I do know my fried Historically, where does fried chicken.” chicken come from? 16 | Summer 2014
Well I’ll tell you, everyone that speaks to me talks about fried chicken coming from the South. It does not come from the South, which is what everybody says. It actually comes from Scotland. The earliest documentation is that it came over in the 1700s from Scotland to the South and ended up in the hands of slaves and was duplicated by them for their owners. So everyone thinks it comes from there, but it comes from Scotland. New Orleans, Atlanta and Nashville – you call these strongholds. Since fried chicken actually originated in another area of the world, why do you think the idea of Southern fried chicken in particular has captured popular imagination? It’s the most visceral of all foods; something you eat with your hands; it’s on the bone, and people love that. Whether you are eating it hot, cold,or at room temperature, it is equally delicious. Like barbecue and bourbon, it’s an iconic, comfort food. Classic American cuisine.
You say that fried chicken is highly subjective to personal taste, so what do you think makes for great fried chicken? I think a lot has to do with the preparation. It can’t be more simple to make fried chicken. Ultimately you have chicken, oil and flour. I think the big thing here is that the oil is the right temperature. That makes a huge difference. If the oil is too hot, it burns the outside and it’s raw inside. And if it’s not hot enough, it can get soggy. I’d have to say the number one ingredient to making great fried chicken starts with the oil – what you
are frying it in and making absolutely sure it’s the right temperature. Do you have a brined vs. nonbrined preference? Good question. We of course talk about that in the book. When I have the time and I think about it the night before I’m making fried chicken, I do brine it, whether it’s in buttermilk with Tabasco or with spices. I like brining; I think it makes the chicken flavorful and extra tender. But if I don’t have the time, which is often enough, I just buy a kosher chicken, which is
almost the equivalent to brining. Have you tried injection brining or is submersion better for fried chicken? I have tried both. I would have to say injection is clearly very flavorful, the same way a drug goes right into your system. I’ve tried it, but I don’t do it. I prefer good old-fashioned brining – submerging something, whether it’s in a dry rub or wet brine. Of all the chefs you spoke to, who was the most fanatical 17
and enthusiastic about fried chicken?
the Treme area. He was one of our first stops on the trip last year – it was probably Well, we didn’t speak about this time last year that to anyone who wasn’t we went on the road trip. enthusiastic. It’s a topic that I remember he was one of everyone loves, although not the first stops, and it was a everyone loves to admit how hot day in New Orleans. We much they love fried chicken. get to his restaurant, and we But as Dana Cowin, the Editor are gracious by calling it a of Food & Wine Magazine said restaurant – it’s like a shack to me ‘It’s everyone’s favorite in the middle of the Treme guilty pleasure.’ People area. We get there for the were really concerned about interview, and he’s laying their recipe; making sure on a table in the middle of that it’s followed correctly. the dining area having a A lot of these recipes have massage. We literally did the been passed down. I don’t interview with him while he know that anyone was more was being massaged. So that fanatic than another, but kind of stands out! It’s the people were really happy to simplest chicken recipe and share their recipes. The ones really one of my favorites. that made it into the book, because many did not, were Exactly how much fried geared towards the home chicken did you eat while chef and had great stories working on this project? Didn’t behind them. you gain a lot of weight? You have a lot of famous chefs in the book and some of the recipes can be more cerebral whereas some are more down home style. Do you remember any particularly great story behind a recipe that stands out? There are a few that do stand out. There’s a recipe in the book from New Orleans, Kermit’s, he’s actually a jazz trumpeter in New Orleans in 18 | Summer 2014
Eleven pounds. Eleven pounds on me! I’ve since taken a lot off, but I’ll start putting it back on with breakfast foods, as I’m working on a breakfast book. Did you eat everything in the cookbook? What are some of your favorite recipes? Oh my god. Multiple times! Side dishes are actually some of my favorites. The tomato
pie I love. The hash brown casserole I love. The biscuits I love. Every chicken recipe is a favorite, but in particular I happen to love the Yotam Ottolenghi Schnitzel. I love the Asha Gomez recipe. And I love Michelle Bernstein’s, the local girl here in Miami, her fried chicken is great. What do you usually make as a side dish at home when you make fried chicken? I really love the tomato pie. And I love Michelle Bernstein’s watermelon and cucumber salad. I make those two dishes, and I almost always make biscuits. Are you a leg, thigh or a breast man? Breast. Are there any special Schrager secrets or tips you learned along the way for making fried chicken at home? There is. You know everyone is always concerned about the smell of grease in the house. So wherever I’m frying, I have a pan of boiling water on the stove. I put cinnamon or cloves or nutmeg in it, and it takes away that cloud of grease in the air.
SON OF A GUN’S FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH with Pickle Coleslaw and Red Rooster Aïoli (makes 4 servings) For the Brine: 1/4 cup kosher salt 2 tablespoons honey 6 bay leaves 1/4 cup garlic cloves, unpeeled, smashed 1 tablespoon black peppercorns 5 sprigs fresh thyme Juice and zest of 1 lemon 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts halves (4 to 6 ounces each) For the Dredge: 4 cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon black peppercorns, lightly toasted, cooled, and cracked 1 tablespoon kosher salt For the Aïoli: 1 cup mayonnaise 1/4 teaspoon very finely minced garlic 4 teaspoons Red Rooster Hot Sauce, or other Louisiana-style hot sauce 1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
For Frying & Assembly: Peanut oil, for frying 3 cups buttermilk Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper For the Slaw: 1/2 cup jarred pickle juice 1/4 cup white vinegar 1/4 cup grapeseed oil 4 cups cabbage (green or red), thinly sliced 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and sliced into thin rounds 1/4 cup shaved red onion 1/3 cup store-bought bread-and-butter pickles, plus more for serving 4 pain de mie or brioche buns Softened unsalted butter, for the rolls BRINE THE CHICKEN: In a saucepan, combine
all the brine ingredients with 4 cups water and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, add 4 additional cups of water, and let chill completely. Transfer to a large bowl, add the chicken breasts, then cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. MAKE THE DREDGE & AÏOLI: In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, peppercorns, and salt. In another bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, garlic, hot sauce, and salt and refrigerate until ready to use. DREDGE THE CHICKEN: Remove the chicken from the brine, rinse, pat dry, and allow the chicken to come to room temperature for 30 minutes; discard the brine. Fill a 6-quart pot no more than halfway with oil and heat to 19
350°F. Set a wire rack on top of a rimmed baking sheet and set aside. Place the buttermilk in a large bowl. Toss the chicken in the dredge, dip in the buttermilk, then toss in the reserved dredge again. FRY THE CHICKEN: Fry the chicken until golden and crisp, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer to the rack, season liberally with salt and pepper, and let rest for at least 5 minutes. MAKE THE SLAW: While the chicken is cooling, in a large bowl whisk together the pickle juice, vinegar, and oil. Add the cabbage, parsley, jalapeños, onion, and pickles, toss to incorporate, and allow to marinate for 5 minutes. TO SERVE: Split the buns, toast them for 1 to 2 minutes until lightly browned, and butter
generously, then spread the aïoli on both sides. Arrange one chicken piece on the bottom half of each bun, top with a
generous amount of slaw and a few pickles, then top with the top half of the bun.
Reprinted from FRIED & TRUE. Copyright © 2014 by Lee Brian Schrager. Photographs copyright © 2014 by Evan Sung. Published by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, a division of Random House.
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EAT ME The Ins + Outs of Consumption We eat out quite a lot, with both fervor and intent. And our plan is cover anything and everything worthy, from sea to shining sea. We will be leaning towards coverage of the NYC dining scene, both because this where we are based, and because we feel the big city sets the pace for the rest of the country. That said, if there is a fantastic restaurant in the middle of nowhere that you need to know about, we will write about it. New restaurants, old favorites...whatever is on our plate will hopefully come to be on your future eating agenda. Here’s where we’re eating!
The Gander
Flatiron, NYC Chef Jesse Schenker’s new restaurant is intended to be approachable, a casual place for those seeking something to nibble on. The mid-century modern dining room is cavernous in comparison to Recette, Schenker’s small slice of fine dining heaven in the West Village (if you’ve never been = shame). The space seems made for high traffic service with soaring ceilings by city standards, monster six-seater banquettes, and a collective of generously spaced tables. There is a long line of stools and a wide swath of passageway leaving plenty of standing room around the bar area, which is a
great option for gluttonous grazing. Americana snacks are upgraded at The Gander – brisket stuffed tots, lamb pastrami, and the sweetbread homage to buffalo wings (a dish carried over from Recette’s line up). The menu reads comfort food, but offerings are surprisingly pretty, arriving
HAMACHI CRUDO
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table-side with slightly elevated airs. what to eat: Chunky sweetbreads are fried just until crisp before being slathered in classic Buffalo spice, the meaty glands inside remain surprisingly tender. Juicy strands of slow roasted brisket are molded into a “tot,” while thin discs of tart apple slices provide a bright jolt of contrast. The hamachi crudo’s brightly colored nest of sliced fish and spot prawns are beautiful to behold, a pour of salty broth gives rise to the scent of green garlic. Sea trout tartare with “traditional accompaniments” serves as visual
DRY AGED SIRLOIN & HEN OF THE WOODS
dream come true. Our sirloin was a hunk of meaty excellence, but the sprawling cluster of deep fried hen of the woods mushrooms sitting proudly next to it really stole the show; as did the half head of rotisserie charred cauliflower, a side dish that commands attention. Cocktails here are super food friendly; we were dizzy with happiness upon the too quick consumption of the Highland Sling, a punch-like concoction of Tequila, Cherry Heering, Chartreuse and Bénédictine, with lime, orange and pineapple juices. The Gin Rhubarb Mule is a simply delicious SEA TROUT TARTARE drink for summer nights, with lemon, mint and ginger beer to kick that fascination, a rainbow hued kaleidoscope of rhubarb large roe and pickled cucumber. The trout skin into is fried up and plated as a tall, stiff ‘cracker’ to gear. The pile it all on top of, although there was table extensive rivalry over the one skin. Lamb pastrami melts wine list on the tongue into a gelatinous cloud of meat curated and buttery fat; grainy mustard and skinny by Rick strips of kraut evoke the deli original, only Pitcher with a more evolved attitude. The spaghetti (formerly comes packed with several kinds of plump of Gotham clams swimming in a bisque flavored with Bar & ROTISSERIE CAULIFLOWER fennel and guanciale. It’s a Vongole lover’s
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Grill) is diverse, but primarily American and Euro-centric, as is the beer list, which includes an edited selection of German Hefeweizens and Belgian Dubbels, alongside locals like Butternuts Porkslap Pale Ale and Ommegang Rare VOS.
Scopa Italian Roots
Venice, CA It’s a shame that traffic is what it is in L.A. because a recent recommendation of Scopa brought forth cries of “too far,” and “not in my hood.” Yet this is one of those times when you really should go out of your way for a meal. Scopa is more than a local gathering place; the food is much too good for the reach not to be further, even to those who live in, say, Silver Lake (you can do it!). Chef Antonia Lofaso (of ‘Top Chef’ season four fame) is delivering a well-rounded assortment of mostly small
CRISPY SQUASH BLOSSOMS
plates and pastas, with superstars like a whole branzino and a 24-ounce T-bone providing menu heft. Soaring ceilings and brick walls help to absorb the abounding chatter, while the modern industrial design GIN FIX scheme does manage to feel cool and comfortable, without trying too hard (in fact, maybe just hard enough). Mirrors reflect a glowing golden light emitting from behind the bar, which curves along the length of the restaurant, drawing your attention like a James Turrell. They are busy, but there is seating everywhere, with plenty of room for everyone. And since they opened back in November of last year, everyone has been anyone lucky enough to live near Venice Beach. what to eat: Start off with “cold cuts” (cotto, speck, mortadella...) and cocktails, the “Gin Fix” resembles a snow cone, yet 23
PAPPARDELLE WITH PORK SHANK
it’s a completely uncomplicated combination of fresh raspberries, lemon juice and sugar; very food friendly. A tropical summer sensation, the East India Cocktail, is made with cognac, maraschino, pineapple and lemon, a strangely balanced sweet drink. For a casual trattoria, there are a few too many bottles on the wine list in excess of $200, but you’ll find that French whites and Tuscan reds offer the most affordable range of options. You must try the calamari, thicks rings blackened with a
mixture of squid ink and rice flour, creating an unexpected tangle of darkness with glimpses of white sea creature meat poking through. A generous heap of crispy squash blossoms are filled until chubby with stomachs full of ricotta and mozzarella, and shells stuffed with duck sausage arrive similarly plumped out. Pastas are exceptional, whether you stick to a simple classic, like the chitarra with pecorino and black pepper, or go for heartier fare, like the ribbons of pappardelle with strands of stewed pork shank and stracciatella, littered with arugula for a peppery bite. Dishes are lightly dressed for dinner – a seafood salad with octopus, shrimp and calamari is unassumingly paired with white beans and fennel. Sunchokes and artichokes with treviso are lemon scented with just enough olive oil, and a luxurious homemade creamy ricotta arrives with a smattering of parsley; understated deliciousness. Keeping within that theme, order the beautiful ricotta cheesecake for dessert, as well a bowl of chocolate chip cannoli. Milky insides wrapped in firm flour shells are properly dusted with a layer of confectioner’s sugar, leaving behind a buttery, powdery stickiness that clings to your lips.
Fifty Seven
CANNOLI
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Los Angeles, CA An old Heinz ketchup loading dock has been transformed into a fine dining inspired, yet completely casual,
restaurant meets music collective? Only in downtown L.A. The concept is that of a test kitchen in nature, with a revolving series of new chefs in residence presenting original menus that reflect their own personal styles. Chef David Nayfeld (most recently of Eleven Madison Park) was in the kitchen for the launch, and now up is Josh Drew (Farmshop, Bouchon, Quince). We recommend grabbing a seat at the bar for dinner, the tables in back are best for groups (it can get loud back there for couples). Afterwards, head “Downstairs” to experience a little live jazz or perhaps catch a R & B artist performing a recent release. what to eat: The menu changes often, so each time you visit a new adventure awaits. Nayfeld’s Modern
CHICKEN & DUMPLINGS
SALMON TARTINE
American menu offered an edited collection of shared plates and mains, as well as a prix fixe three course option. A salmon tartine on house baked rye was a cured majesty of fish with giant rings of pickled red onions, whippings of sour cream and scoops of large roe. Now you will find a beet cured salmon crudo with pistachio oil and carrot greens on the menu, equally attractive. A play on chicken and dumplings, buttermilk poached breasts stand proudly in a creamy sauce hiding small nuggets of ricotta gnocchi; a creative way to update classic Americana. Today’s Jidori chicken with pickled mustard seeds and burnt onion crema is plated with a confit thigh and liver mousse. A chocolate and salted caramel themed dessert is loaded with puffs of wild rice adding crunch to complement the richness - the sweet stuff here gets just as much detailed attention as the savory courses. 25
READ ME
Summertime Bookshelf
Ahhh, summer. The time has finally arrived for outdoor enthusiasts who take their playtime and dinnertime equally in earnest. Here’s our recommended cookbook list covering how to buy or even butcher your own meat, how to grill it, what to drink with it, and how to make something icy and sweet to finish it off! The Meat Hook Meat Book is Tom Mylan’s animal encyclopedia, offering an instructional guide on butchering that is slightly PG-13. Carefully carved carcasses float in outer space, providing a visual of everything from the “chuck plate” to the “bottom round.” You’ll be sawing through connective tissue in no time. Recipes will guide you in the selection of the right cut of meat for the task at hand; from Cannibal Sandwiches (tartare on an bun) to Lamb Belly Pancetta and Fighting-Cock Jerky, this Brooklyn based butcher shop knows what to do with a hunk of meat. Friends who have previously considered themselves grill masters will be humbled by your tales of going ‘whole hog.’
for making the perfect bowl. Chapters are tuned in to your feelings, whether you are “Sluggish” (Cookie Au Lait) or waxing “Nostalgic” (Bubblegum), your screams for ice cream end here. They recently opened a huge facility in Gowanus and are currently preparing to quadruple production, transforming this local business into a serious creamery contender.
San Fran’s beloved butcher, Ryan Farr and his wife, Cesalee, founded 4505 Meats back in 2009, and have since been outspoken advocates for whole-animal The Ample Hills Creamery cookbook reveals butchery (they the “secrets and stories” behind the popularity even teach of Brooklyn’s “Favorite Ice Cream Shop.” classes!). Now Featuring the recipes that made them famous, we can all you’ll find Salted Crack Caramel (a buttery benefit from burnt sweet dream) and Breakfast Trash (with their meaty a milky sugary cereal base), as well as tips knowledge with 26 | Summer 2014
the “Definitive Guide” to Sausage Making, which breaks down recipes according to technique and texture. “Firm” sausage recipes include Beer Bratwurst and Linguiça, whereas the category covering “Coarse” highlights familiars like Chorizo, Merguez, and pork happy Maple Bacon sausage for breakfast. Softies like Guinea Hen and Kimchee, or The Kermit, made with boneless, skinless frog legs, will certainly appease the more adventurous eater. The resource list provides info on where to buy casings, curing salts and sausage-making equipment.
This compilation edited by former New York Times journalist and author Peter Kaminsky looks back on “More Than 100 Years of Sizzling Food Writing” from industry heavyweights such as Mark Bittman, Craig Claiborne, Sam Sifton and Florence Fabricant. Famous chefs including Alfred Portale and Jacques Pépin offer expert advice on BBQ, but overall, The Essential New York Times Grilling Cookbook is content driven, with essays on grilling and related topics. Recipes range from the traditional, like Texas Brisket and North Carolina Style Pulled Pork, to the more unusual, such as Shu Mai-Style Burgers. An extensive list of sides is also on the menu, from Corn Pudding to Korean Potato Salad. Ice cream sandwiches have never looked quite so enticing as they do in the hands of Coolhaus, a company whose “Farchitecture,”
(meaning = Food + Architecture) riff on the classic with a “cookie roof” and “ice cream walls” has made them a name. The Coolhaus Ice Cream Book reinforces the architectural sweet treat with a chart to guide you in the creation of your personal dessert fantasy. Double Chocolate Cookie with Dirty Mint Chip, Bananas Foster or Nutella Toasted Almond Ice Cream? One of life’s difficult decisions. There’s also a section on Shakes and toppings to up the ice cream ante, such as Fried Chicken Caramel or Bacon Salt. Greg Seider’s experience in booze (The Box, Minetta Tavern, Asia de Cuba) comes to life as his new book, Alchemy In A Glass puts page after page of recipes on display. He developed the bar program for esteemed chef Eric Ripert at Le Bernardin but believes that “the mechanics of building kick-ass cocktails” is actually easy to do at home. He offers a full proof formula for shaken drinks and advises a correct proportion ratio as the “foundation” of the perfect pour. From a standard Sazerac to an inventive spin on the margarita (made with jalapeño infused pineapple puree and cardamom bitters), your summer will be imbibed with tastiness. 27
AROUND THE WEB We Give Good Internet We cruise all day long, so you don’t have to. Instead, just check out our list of cyberspace faves, from online provisions to kitchen gadgets you’ll covet. The things we love we now pass along to you! We’ll also give a nod to the emerging power of self-sufficiency, highlighting the culinary company upstarts that we are currently following on crowdsourcing sites. Today’s bright idea is tomorrow’s coolest appliance, or cookbook, or restaurant success story…let’s support our peers! Power to the (food) people. SteakChamp After testing more than 650 steaks, with and without the bone, at both high and low temperatures, in various cooking formats (on the grill, in the oven, in a frying pan...) the SteakChamp was finally born. Based in Germany, the company passed out early versions to starred restaurants locally and stateside, to see what chefs in working kitchens had to say. An “intelligent” thermometer that ensures the perfect steak every time, the desired degree of rare to well is determined electronically by a lengthy probe that reads from the core of the meat. Instead of just approximating done-ness based on one area, you’ll now relish the even keeled beauty of medium rare. Steaklocker Dry-age your steaks at home with this converted refrigerator that allows you to control the entire process, tenderizing the meat within three weeks (it can age for up to 70 days). A UVA protected fiberglass door gives you a glimpse of the meaty promise to come, while black light provides sterilization. You can even 28 | Summer 2014
monitor temperature fluctuations via your phone. An app will notify you of any changes that might affect the meat using a Bluetooth sensor. Although the Kickstarter campaign is ending on July 8th, they are currently working on the logistics of manufacturing and distribution. Their plan is to “bring the product to every steak lover’s home.”
Collaborative Cooking Contemplate the future of food with a machine that creates the action of cooking without direct verbal communication. A partnership between a chef and a programmer, this physical manifestation uses a digital platform (to control the ingredients, the heat, the stirring) using the talents of up to five chefs at same time. The user interface operates remotely. It all began with a question posed to one of Sweden’s top chefs, “Do you always have to taste your own food?” The answer? “Not as long as I have cooked it myself.” It’s a design experiment that furthers the conversation regarding culinary technological innovation.
Cover On our COVER, this lazy Berkshire piggie lounging in the summer sun is renowned throughout the industry as the king of pork. Heritage pigs raised on smaller farms with animal friendly conditions, deliver both flavor and conscience directly to your door. Not only is this the humane way to eat, but also the most flavorful.
Credits Page 7: OKIE DOKIE ARTICHOKIE photography courtesy of Swift’s Attic. Page 17: LEE BRIAN SCHRAGER portrait, photography Š Evan Sung.
Berkshire pork (known to the Japanese as Kurobuta, which you will notice on menus everywhere) is not the other white meat. With a firm, lean loin and well balanced marbling, Berkshires were popular with the Houses of Windsor and Hanover. Dating back 300 years, breeding practices still maintain origin from an English herd, so the DNA is consistent. The pork of royals is still what we are eating today. Where can you buy Berkshire pork? Snake River Farms sells everything from pork collar to baby back ribs. Buy a half or whole hog from R Heritage Farm, or from The Cook Pigs Ranch, where you can also buy hocks, jowls, organs and tails. For more information, please visit these websites directly. Get grilling! 29