Plateit Magazine - Winter 2014 by PlateIt

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Map Of The Culinary Process: Decoding The Genome Of Cooking Ferran AdriĂ : Notes on Creativity/The Drawing Center

FOOD CULTURE CURATION Winter 2014

8 IN THE KITCHEN

16 THE INTERVIEW

Chef Chris Jaeckle takes us behind the burner at All’Onda, sharing his recipe for the restaurant’s tortellini en brodo, as well as a few intimate surprises about himself.

Ivan Orkin invites us along Where are we eating now? on his adventures in Japan, Skál, Rosette, Narcissa, providing an inside view of SakaMai, Rolf and Daughters. what it’s like to be a white guy making ramen.

“I have an obsession with Popeye’s chicken.”

“I knew lots of people were going to come to see me...but I also knew that most of them would be coming in expecting me to fail.”

22 EAT ME

“Start with crisped pig skin rising off of the plate like a magical sea creature...”

WINTER /The Hibernation Issue

4 5 6 8 11 15 16 22 27 29

Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Letter The Sauce Drink Me In The Kitchen Home Ec-ular Gastronomy The Centerfold The Interview Eat Me Read Me Around The Web

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Record low temperatures across the country provoke fears of frozen toes and lackluster visions of a long winter, but whiskey, wine and slow braised shanks constitute just a few of our favorite things. Comfort foods like chili, cassoulet and goulash catapult dormancy from an imposed upon state to an embrace of welcome anticipation. The kitchen is the second best place in the world to spend time hibernating (feather bed + mate + naked snuggling = rah, rah winter). Speaking of amour, we must admit that we don’t usually make a fuss about Valentine’s Day, mostly because it seems to have become more about dating and less about eating. However, we’ve decided that The Feast of Saint Valentine offers a time when the love of food should claim our attention. We’ve also concluded that anyone can get behind a silly celebration of romance involving the binge eating of chocolate and candy (our web guide to sweet and spicy, page 29). Ramen seems to be in the spotlight these days, and the winter’s frost provides an excellent excuse for steamy soup. If you really want to impress someone and can’t find the words, say it with noodles. From our picks of the best cookbooks (make your own ramen, page 27) to our favorite bowl (check out this month’s centerfold, page 15), this month we pass along our love affair with ramen to you. Supposedly the way to the heart is through the stomach, and we certainly can attest to a generous amount of affection directed at the chef after a heavenly meal. So stop sending flowers and feed the one you love. Happy Feastday! We are a small operation running on love, booze, and our last good meal...and you are always welcome at our table!

Lesley Elliott Editor-In-Chief 4 | Winter 2014

Rachel Waynberg Creative Director

So who are we really? We are lusty gluttons with a lifetime membership to the clean plate club. We live to eat, so if our 401K’s look lean, it’s because we consume too much food and booze in general, and wholeheartedly plan to do it over and over again (our intestines are chock full of salary byproduct). We’ve never met a pork product we didn’t fall hard for. We don’t ask for “dressing on the side,” and we are never embarrassed to take home leftovers (um, what else do you eat the morning after?). We hope that the more you get to know us, the more you’ll love us. Here’s a cheat sheet so that you get to know us sooner, rather than later. LOVE IT: Rachel – hot dogs Lesley – cheese HATE IT: Rachel – chicken liver Lesley – green beans ALCHOLIC ACHILLES HEEL: Rachel – Tito’s Vodka Lesley – It’s always the damn tequila FAVORITE CONDIMENT: Rachel – Sir Kensington’s Ketchup Lesley – Horseradish, from Gold’s kosher white to wasabi FAVORITE KITCHEN TOOL: Rachel – a sharp knife, it does everything! Lesley – my butane torch, it burns everything! FAVORITE ROMANTIC RESTAURANT: Rachel – peasant; the place (nyc) Lesley – L’Ambroisie (paris) WINTER HIBERNATION EATING HABITS: Rachel – Ramen, ramen, ramen; Beef Bourguignon; braised meat & pasta Lesley – ramen!!! chili; cassoulet; ossobuco; popcorn (in bed)

THE SAUCE

Foodstuffs We Favor

The Sauce? What is the sauce? Well, it’s a lot like love (or cheese) in that it makes whatever exists in nature that is already wonderful even better, eclipsing all other previous notions of tasty. For grateful endearment lasting beyond the V-Day gift exchange process, smother your sweetheart with a jar of saucy affection (literally or figuratively, we believe in the right to privacy when it comes to chocolate and caramel). Brooklyn based Spoonable produces a line of flowery and salty scented caramels with what they like to call “attitude.” The spicy chili version ($8.50) is a lusty combo of heat and sweet, ideal for inciting holiday attack kisses. Other unique flavors like chewy sesame and peppered orange do double duty as a topping for ice cream and marinade for savory recipes. From the brilliant minds at Coolhaus, please consider the knowledge of Fried Chicken Caramel ($15) to be your Valentine’s Day present from us. First they fry up organic chicken skins, then they infuse the home-made caramel with said skins before straining. The caramel is then spiced with sage, cayenne and black pepper. You should also check out the chocolate bars and truffles with fried chicken caramel centers. A fantastic salty surprise!

Just outside of Atlanta you’ll find the Mill Creek Spice Company, a family owned business bringing you certified organic rubs. JR’s Favorite Java Rub will give your grilled meat a chocolate-y upgrade ($7.95), with a combination of roasted coffee beans and cacao. No MSG, gluten free, and small batch processed, so you know it hasn’t been sitting on shelves losing oomph. So who is JR? The owner’s mom and lifelong spice inspiration, Jimmie Rae. Awww. The COOP’s Microcreamery Fudge experience is more like eating melted ganache than the traditional hot pour ($13.99). No corn syrup here or artificial anything, just smooth chocolate shinning like pudding in a jar. Don’t be intimidated by the drippy wax covering, just immerse in warm water and it will peel back like magic. They also make a vegan version with coconut milk. 5

DRINK ME

The Ins + Outs of Boozing

We love bartenders for their magical ability to transform the basic experience of drinking into ‘cocktailing,’ so if you are also a boozehound in search of the best, here’s where you’ll find it!

Apartment 13

Alphabet City, NYC The dining room upstairs is warm and inviting with a romantic fireplace ideal for a date, but we prefer to nab a seat at the ground floor bar. The cocktail program is designed by Steve Olson, a beverage consultant whose previous clients include Gramercy Tavern, The Borgata Hotel (Atlantic City) and The Morgan Hotel

tailored to match, with everything from a threesome of chilled vodkas (Oysters Na Zdorovie, $15) to shochu (Oysters Masahiro, $16) to sherry (Oysters Jerez, $16). Creative cocktails involve ingredient twists and turns, such as the Strait of Malacca, a combo of gin, lemongrass, Kalamansi and pimento bitters. We also love the Cherry Blossom, with Kappa Chilean Pisco, Demerara, cherries, and verbena.

Drumbar

Group. A small oyster station off to the side is where flights of briny fancy occur (if you are unaware of Apartment 13’s “Oysters In The Afternoon” deal, your life is about to change). what to drink: From 5 to 8 p.m., take advantage of an offer that plates up a flight of 2 East Coast oysters, 2 West Coast oysters, and 2 Littleneck clams. Plus, your mollusks are served with amazing accoutrement like Sichuan Mignonette, Wasabi Cocktail Sauce and our fave, a firm Tabasco gelée. Booze is 6 | Winter 2014

Chicago, IL Although the rooftop location in the Raffaello may secure this as a hot spot during the summer, a sexy library vibe will lure you in all winter long. Bartenders are well suited to the task in bow ties and vests; high ceilings, roaring fire, brass cafe tables and tufted brown leather sofas all contribute to the comfortable warmth. The bar is now run by Alex Renshaw (Sable Kitchen & Bar) who also oversees the program at other Menin owned hotels across the U.S. Whether it’s a tailormade bourbon flight or one of Drumbar’s house cocktails, these ’tenders get it right. what to drink: An extensive whiskey collection challenges even the most discerning. Look for some very satisfying high end, small batch bourbons. Cocktails are forged with personality and flavor, such as the “Saturday Cartoons,” a drink whose

foundation begins with Cinnamon Toast Crunch infused twelve year old Zaya rum. The Spin City takes you to a beach in Southeast Asia with an unusual mix of rum, Kümmel, Batavia Arrack, lime and curry bitters. We also recommend the not so scornful bite of “Hell Hath No Fury,” a balanced winter refresher made with St. George Terroir Gin, spiced pear liquer, cherry heering, lemon and sage.

Botanic Lab

Lower East Side, NYC Casa Mezcal’s Ignacio Carballido has turned the basement of his restaurant into a cocktail apothecary. Armed with the talents of Mixologist Miguel Aranda (Apothèke, Bar Masa, Bathtub Gin), Botanic Lab’s concept will cure whatever ails you. Herb and spice based cocktails are mastered by Jason Walsh (Monkey Bar, Brushstroke), a man with an incredible imagination for booze. Don’t hesitate to ask him what’s not on the menu! Late night, the small stage entertains with belly dancers and burlesque. It’s dark and cozy and there’s a giant alligator skin on the wall. If he could speak, he’d say, “order more pisco and mezcal.” what to drink: Choose between rosemary, cardamom or black pepper infused gin to kick your tonic up a notch. The Velvet Penicillin with Speyburn 10 year single malt, whiskey, raw ginger juice and an egg white, is a foamy, tasty dream on ice. We loved the Gypsy Gold as well, a mix of brandy, sherry and lemon juice with a vanilla tincture. “New Additions” will appear on the menu regularly, such as a Saffron Old Fashioned, glowing with amber light. But it was The Monk’s Nightcap that really got our glow on, with a heady combo of rum, vermouth, chartreuse and an herbal French liqueur. Sounds intimidating, but it was love at first sip. And now we pass the love on to you...enjoy!

The Monk’s Nightcap 1 1/2 ounce Brugal Añejo rum 1 ounce Dolin Rouge sweet vermouth 1/2 ounce Suze Gentiane Liqueur 1/2 ounce Green Chartreuse Orange oils Orange twist Combine all ingredients into a mixing glass and add ice. Stir very well (about 35 rotations) and strain into a martini style glass with a Julep strainer. Squeeze orange oils over cocktail then garnish with an orange twist. Serve straight up!

Chris Jaeckle Allâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Onda, NYC January 13, 2014

8 | Winter 2014

IN THE KITCHEN Behind The Culinary Curtain The popularized portrait of a chef doesn’t truly capture the actual turmoil of living with the desire to make a restaurant succeed. Rarely do we get a glimpse of what happens in the kitchen; long days standing in extreme heat, menu and margin planning, purveying, staff training. Before they became recognizable names in the industry, they opened first restaurants, made mistakes, made sacrifices, celebrated success and on occasion, encountered failure. As a chef, Chris Jaeckle has woven a food tapestry of varied flavors, including Indian and Modern American within the galactic empire of Danny Meyer (Tabla and the formerly owned, Eleven Madison Park) and contemporary Japanese (Morimoto). He then brushed up on his Italian with the Altamarea Group; Ai Fiori earned those highly desired three stars from The New York Times on his watch. As executive chef and partner at All’Onda he now has the freedom to experiment, his culinary style organically morphing into “Modern Venetian” with a Japanese accent. The results are beautifully creative plates such as the Tortellini en Brodo, floating in a parmesan dashi broth. Get to know the chef, then get to know his dish. What’s the best meal you’ve ever eaten? Best in my life is tough. But recently, I traveled to Venice, my girlfriend Lindsey and I stopped at a few markets and picked up some cheese and cured meats. We opened the windows to our room and sat on the ledge, listening to the bustle of town, enjoying the briny cheeses and meats. If you could spend a night working in the kitchen with any chef in the world, who would it be and why? It would have been Jean Louis Palladin. Such personality and

talent, bursting with creativity, long before it was cool to be a chef. What’s your favorite kitchen gadget/tool? Small Rubbermaid heat proof spatula.

What’s your favorite travel destination for food? To date it would be Hong Kong. The open fish markets in Northern Kowloon are just remarkable for quality and freshness. Plus, it’s entertaining.

What’s your favorite cookbook? What’s something that your colleagues would be surprised I own a few hundred, so this to learn about you? is hard. Inspiration and work ethic — White Heat. Aesthetics I have an obsession with — Eleven Madison Park. Popeye’s chicken. One food you would never eat or never serve?

It’s 3:00 a.m., your post drinking go to snack is...

Raw onions.

Chicken skin yakatori. 9

All’Onda’s Tortellini en Brodo Tortellini Filling: 1 pc ricotta 100 grams marscapone 75 grams parmesan 1 pc lemon zest 5 grams tarragon 10 grams parsley 5 grams basil 4 egg yolks Using a rubber spatula fold all ingredients together and season with salt to taste. Parmesan Dashi: 5 sheets konbu 5 gallons water 1 bag bonito flakes 6 # parmesan rind 0.25 bunch thyme 0.25 bunch rosemary 2 pc bay leaf Fill a stock pot with cold water and add the konbu, parmesan, and herbs. Bring to a simmer and allow to cook for 15 minutes. Add the Bonito flakes and let steep for 1 hour. Strain thoroughly.

10 | Winter 2014

Then boil the tortellini, pour liquid over. “We season the broth with white soy and hon dashi, after it is made.” At the restaurant, Chef Jaeckle finishes this dish with thinly sliced porcini and a slick of tomato oil.

THE CHEAT SHEET Note: We are delighted to share the recipe for one of the inventive menu items at All’Onda with you. Please keep in mind, however, that this is an actual restaurant recipe, hence the measurements are fit to feed an army. Adjust pasta serving size as desired, and here’s our test kitchen (a.k.a. “the home cook user friendly”) version of the dashi recipe. You may want to use cheesecloth to strain the liquid effectively. Parmesan Dashi, our way: 1 sheet konbu 12 cups of cold water 4 cups bonito flakes 1 parmesan rind 4 sprigs thyme 2 full sprigs rosemary 1 dried bay leaf

HOME EC-ULAR GASTRONOMY

Ramen Edition

Molecular Gastronomy. It looks harder than it is. It sounds even harder than it looks. Although it may seem tricky to navigate, the chemical revolution is upon us, and some very famous chefs are doing very interesting things with stuff you’ve never heard of before. Turns out that the shifting of one substance into something else entirely, at the molecular level, isn’t really as complicated as you may think. It’s about precise measurements, having the right kitchen equipment, and an abundance of imagination. Get yourself a kitchen scale that measures out the tiniest gram of powder; buy or hack master a sous vide machine; you’ll need an immersion blender; a smoking gun; a dehydrator; a butane torch; a couple of large plastic syringes; you’ll also have to work with unfamiliar cooking ingredients like meat glue and methyl cellulose (all easily procurable on line). The ultimate goal is to combine everything you already know about cooking and infuse it with a twenty first century, culinary manifest destiny. Seek out what’s new and expand your kitchen horizons. Endgame = you’ll be the Walter White of food. In this homage to ramen, we’ve created a perfect sphere of soup, which is not entirely difficult to make, but it does take a while! Fortunately, an unwatched pot boils away for hours without you. Add a dash of scallion dust and soy egg cream for a flavor packed spoon of Tonkatsu surprise.

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:

ISI gourmet whip-plus or similar device + nitrogen cartridges (“cream chargers”) + blender + immersion hand blender + digital kitchen scale + fine mesh strainer + dehydrator + silicone mat + coffee or spice grinder + silicon half-sphere mold + cheesecloth

Note: Measurements below are listed in metric units when necessary and in the Americanized standard system whenever possible. We want to avoid a hostile takeover of your cooking comfort zone.

TONKATSU SPHERES (makes 24 spheres) For the Tonkatsu Broth: 2 pig trotters (about 1 1/2 lbs., split lengthwise) 1 smoked ham hock (about 3/4 lb.) 1 1/2 lbs. chicken backs 4 negi (Japanese onions), washed and chopped into 1 inch slices 1 yellow onion, chopped 3 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed 1 1/2 ounces fresh ginger, sliced 1/4 lb. shitake and shimeji mushrooms 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 12 cups (+2 additional cups) cold water

occasionally. The idea is to lightly brown the vegetables and bring out flavor for use in the broth. Combine the trotters, ham hock, chicken backs, negi, onion, garlic, ginger and mushrooms in a large pot. Cover with 12 cups of cold water and bring to a boil over high heat. Once the pot is at a rolling boil, cover and reduce heat to low. After 10 minutes, check the pot, if the broth is at a slow boil, reduce heat slightly and cover, otherwise increase the heat slightly. Continue to check every 10 minutes to find the point at which the heat is at the lowest setting that still allows for a slow boil. Cook the broth for 6 hours.

Pour the vegetable oil in a cast iron After 6 hours, add an 2 more cups skillet and heat on medium for 3 minutes. Add the yellow onion, garlic of water. Cover and cook for an additional 4 hours. and ginger and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring When the broth has finished cooking, strain the broth and discard the solids. Then line a strainer or chinois with cheesecloth and strain again, you will probably need to cut 4-5 swaths of cheesecloth and

12 | Winter 2014

replace during the straining process. Allow to cool and then place in the refrigerator. After several hours (or overnight), skim the fat cap from the top of the broth and discard. This recipe will yield approximately 6 cups of broth. Reserve 1 cup for the spheres and you can save and use the rest for other purposes (such as traditional Ramen).

Note: If you cannot find negi,

you can substitute a combination of leeks and scallions.

For the Spheres: 220 milliliters Tonkatsu broth 1/2 teaspoon soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 4.4 grams food grade calcium lactate gluconate 1 silicon half-sphere mold (ideally each half-sphere should be approximately 0.3 ounces in volume) 1 cutting board that is slightly larger than the entire half-sphere mold First, take the cutting board and be sure you have cleared space in your freezer where the board can rest flat with the half-sphere mold on top of it. Warm the broth in a small saucepan

until the liquid is fluid but not boiling. Add the soy sauce and salt, stir, cooking for 1 minute. Add the calcium lactate gluconate and whisk until fully dissolved in the broth. Line the cutting board with paper towels and place the half-sphere mold on top. Using a small spoon, fill each of the half-spheres with the Tonkatsu solution. Carefully take the cutting board with the half-sphere mold on top and place it in the freezer for approximately 24 hours.

Note: Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll need to prepare

the Tonkatsu spheres and a sodium alginate bath 24 hours in advance of the time you wish to make the final dish.

For the Sodium Alignate Bath:

an immersion blender until fully combined. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for 24 hours. This will allow any air bubbles to dissipate.

For the Scallion Dust:

6 cups filtered, cold water 6.8 grams sodium alginate 1 microwave safe bowl

4-6 scallions, green pieces only, cut in half

Combine the water and sodium alginate in the bowl and mix with

Place the scallion segments on a silicone mat in the dehydrator and

set the temperature to 130 degrees Crack open the eggs into a blender Fahrenheit. Dehydrate for 6 hours. and add the butter, cream and 2 tablespoons of the soy-garlic When dehydration is complete, grind infusion. Blend until combined the scallions to the consistency of (approximately 30 seconds). fine salt. Pour the mixture into an ISI gourmet whip (or similar device). Screw on a charger and remove. Shake vigorously for 30 seconds and place in the refrigerator until ready to use.

For the Soy Egg Cream:

1/4 cup soy sauce 1/4 cup water 1/8 cup sake 1 tablespoon mirin 1 garlic clove, peeled and smashed 1 scallion, thickly sliced 1/4 ounce fresh ginger, skin on, smashed 1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns 2 eggs 15 grams unsalted butter 65 grams heavy cream 1/4 teaspoon salt Remove the eggs from the refrigerator and let them come to room temperature (about 20 minutes). Combine the soy sauce, water, sake, mirin, garlic, scallion, ginger and peppercorns in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook for 1 minute. Strain and discard the solids. Bring a pot of water to a boil and gently submerge the eggs. Cook for two minutes. Run the eggs under cold water until they are cool enough to pick up with your hands. 14 | Winter 2014

Creating the Spheres: Frozen Tonkatsu half-spheres Sodium alginate bath Warm water bath Slotted spoon or mini-sieve Remove the sodium alginate bath from the refrigerator and place in the microwave for 6-8 minutes so that the temperature of the bath rises to 125-150 degrees Fahrenheit. Fill a bowl with hot water from the tap and place next to the sodium alginate bath. Begin by first testing the sphere

creation process one at a time until you get it right. Carefully remove one frozen sphere from the silicon mold and place gently in the sodium alginate bath. Be sure that the curved side of the sphere remains facing upwards (if not, use a spoon or your fingers, to gently reposition). Leave in the sodium alginate bath for 2 minutes, then use a slotted spoon or min-sieve to gently lift the sphere and place it in the warm water bath for a few moments. Remove the sphere and place on a spoon. Once you complete this process without any loss of sphere outer skin integrity, you can create spheres in groups of 6 at a time. Leave the individual spheres floating in the warm water bath until you are ready to transfer all of them to a serving spoon. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll want to work quickly as the water will degrade the outer skin of the sphere.

To assemble final dish: Dispense approximately a teaspoon sized dollop of the soy egg cream on to a large flat bottomed serving spoon. Using a spoon, gently rest the sphere on top of the soy egg cream. Lastly, garnish with a pinch of the scallion dust and drizzle a bit of traditional spicy chili or garlic oil for added oomph.

THE CENTERFOLD you know you want a piece Salty warmth travels into the belly of the beast, a liquid hug for your intestines. Ippudo West considers their “Akamaru Modern” ramen a “more bold, modern translation of the original,” and so we say “welcome to the future, baby.” Dreamy pork broth is dressed up with special sauce, a secret formula “Umami Dama” miso paste melts gradually into the surrounding cloudy elixir. Sinewy noodles nestle below; intensify the experience with extra pork loin chashu and maybe the Kakuni braised belly too. Cabbage, scallion and Kikurage mushrooms (known as ‘jelly ears,’ but better for nibbling on) all share space with softly boiled egg, brimming with the promise of a molten center. Fragrant garlic oil perfumes every inch. This beautiful bowl will make you drop something – your jaw. Us: What are your biggest turn ons? The Centerfold: “Bamboo shoots, pickled mustard leaf, extra noodles, Ginga Kogen [beer].” Us: What are your biggest turns offs? The Centerfold: “Tempura. I’ve never met anything fried that could truly handle me.” 15

THE INTERVIEW Peeling the Onion Ed’s Lobster Bar on the Lower East Side is soon to be re-born as the ramen child of Chef Ivan Orkin, whose belief in dangerously hot soup-slurping will be converting the American masses (his location at Gotham West Market is already in action). His recently published cookbook is more of a memoir but offers his full scale recipe for Shio Ramen (it’s long and covers every component from “Fat” to Toasted Rye Noodles. Buy the book! See page 27). Orkin majored in Japanese Literature in college, but he really wasn’t certain of what to do after that. He says that in 1987, he was “a disorganized, confused twenty-something. I wasn’t a student. I wasn’t a chef. I wasn’t really anything.” So how does his story of success progress? Read on. Then, turn the page to find out exactly what you should be doing with your ramen leftovers. You mention in the book that you were very into food as a kid, but that your parents were not necessarily creative enough in the kitchen to have made a big impact on you…so what as a child attracted you to food?

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I’m not really sure – probably explained better by Freud. I’ve always liked eating and food. I liked going to restaurants. When I was very young we had big family gatherings. I come from a big, boisterous Jewish family. Passover and Thanksgiving were always big holidays with lots of singing and eating. I think that was important to me. My Dad made really great spaghetti and meatballs, so a couple of times a year that was his thing. My Mom said that if they made a pill so she didn’t have to eat anymore she would be happy. It’s not quite that stark…but as I got older I sort of rejected ‘plastic’ foods. My parents would leave us saying ‘there’s

a Hungry Man dinner in the freezer for you.’ So invariably we would cook it and it wouldn’t cook through evenly. The apple pie was always frozen and the peas and carrots were hard. So I rejected that type of food and never ate frozen food again. How old were you at this point? I was thirteen. It was disgusting and I couldn’t eat it. But you read these stories about famous chefs and by the time they were twelve they were working in their family restaurant or cooking elaborate meals or something, and that wasn’t me. In seventh grade I was failing French and the

teacher said if I made a quiche I would get a D instead of an F, so I made a quiche for the end of year class party. I made Irish Soda Bread one year. I think I appreciated feeding myself. That idea was really important. The first part of your book is an open narrative about your journey and it’s very emotional in nature. Was it difficult for you to look back and choose what experiences to include? And were there details you left out because you felt they were too personal? No. It’s pretty personal (laughs). I don’t think I left out much. But you know, the death of my wife was a big deal. It was a very transformative experience. I’m a very practical person. The fact is my wife died and it was tough. But I also learned a lot and I grew and it opened opportunities for me that I wouldn’t have had otherwise. Sometimes out of really bad things, good things come. In my case that was really true. It’s very weird, because you can’t go back either. Who knows? It’s not a typical cookbook… It was my story, but it’s a strange book to sell. It’s tough because I think that to sell cookbooks you are either on TV, so people buy it no matter what because they’re

interested, or they buy a book for practical reasons – a Martha Stewart book or a Gourmet book. Those books are great when you’re trying to make a dinner party and you can’t think of anything, opening up five Martha Stewart books is the greatest thing ever. That’s what she does, she comes up with ideas and templates and it’s really helpful. With my book I made no apologies. You know, I told my story because I think my story is worthwhile. I did something that I think a lot of people would have liked to have done. I’ve always been restless and I’ve lived in a lot of places and I’ve always gone against the grain. When I moved to Japan I quit my job, sold my house and sold my things. My parents were like ‘you’re crazy,’ and I said ‘yeah, but there’s nothing in New York for me right now and I just got married. I’m happy and it’s my chance to go back and live in Japan again.’ I didn’t care about the consequences.

gotta go check that out.’ The Japanese actually love stuff like that, they love that sort of shtick. I was pretty positive that I would have an opportunity to have people come in. But at the same time, I had been involved with Japan for a long time and I knew that the Japanese are really sophisticated diners, especially with ramen. They have a very strong idea of what’s good and what’s bad. I knew lots of people were going to come to see me ‘cause I’m this white guy making ramen; but I also knew that most of them would be coming in expecting me to fail. I would have to put up a bowl of ramen as good or better as anybody else in Tokyo. That was the only way I was going to win, to serve food as good or better as any place else.

Do you think that being a white guy helped or hurt your business there in the beginning?

Absolutely. I have this great story. I had this husband and wife come in and it was just like that. They opened up the sliding door and walked in. Their heads were down, they probably just saw the ramen sign. They sat down and I was standing there doing my thing. I’m always chattering and dancing and making food. I looked at them; they

Well of course it helped in the sense that whenever anyone opens a business anywhere in the world you need a hook. I knew, of course, that being an American guy from New York and having a white face and all that people would say ‘hey – I

Did you find at some point you had customers come in, but who were not seeking you out, just stumbled in and looked at you and went ‘Uhhhh?’

looked at me and their faces just dropped, they were like ‘Oh fuck. We’re gonna have to stay here.’ After they meal we started chatting and they said, ‘We have to be honest, when we first walked in here we were kind of freaked out and skeptical, but we love your food.’ For the next year they came in regularly. I can understand, sometimes you walk into a place and you’re not so sure.

weird. Even now it’s not the norm. Most people buy their noodles the same way most sandwich shops buy their bread. If you went to a sandwich shop here that made their own bread you’d be like, ‘holy shit they make their own bread.’ It wouldn’t be like, ‘of course they make their own bread.’ Most people don’t have the facilities and it’s a big operation. Really, it’s actually a very interesting, similar parallel. What struck me when For a culture that seems to be I first started eating a lot of obsessive about the texture of ramen is that I didn’t think the any given noodle, do you think noodles were particularly good it’s odd that most ramen-ya’s for my palate. I would think the use factory bought noodles? Was soup was really delicious but it a big deal at the time that you the noodles were a ‘meh.’ I met were making your own noodles? the guy who ran this noodle Do you think people care? machine company and it just made sense to me. It was a Well the thing you need to lot more work and cost a lot understand first off, making of money upfront. It’s a big your own noodles is almost commitment to make your own

product every day, because you have to have the noodles to run your business. It was very good for me personally. I learned a lot. If you made your own bread for sandwiches you have think about what texture bread you want for each filling. You can’t take brioche and serve hard salami on it, you’ll have a bad sandwich. Ramen is really similar. You have to think what kind of noodle do I want to serve with what type of broth? There’s a lot of thought that goes into it. Very rarely do you get both right the first time. You have to choose. I make a noodle recipe, taste it and I love it. Now, what do I do with that? You build from there what type of broth you’re going to pair with it. So I think it really helped me make good ramen, because it made me think on all levels. In my main shop I have a sign that says ‘house made noodles’ in Chinese characters. Some people care, some people don’t. I think my noodles taste great – I make them by hand and they taste great. How do you feel about the state of ramen here in NYC? I think it’s at the very, very beginning. It’s in its infancy. Do you eat ramen at other places here? I’ve eaten at most of the ramen

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shops around, think most of them are very nice. But you know, I had the same problem in Tokyo. I don’t eat ramen in Tokyo that much. I’m very supportive of all ramen shops, but I think there is no real competition yet and there’s lots of room for more to open. And my ramen? Listen, my ramen is really different than any other in NYC and maybe America. When I was eating all around Tokyo and trying to learn about ramen and getting into it, I began to discover that the pork bone – the really heavy, fatty soups – didn’t digest well with me. I would eat and think ‘oh, this is so delicious,’ but then I would get really sleepy, bloated or feel nauseous. Then I started eating in shops that were more the kind I ultimately made; chicken broth and dashi, lighter styles with much less fat. I thought ‘wow, when I eat that I feel pretty good.’ And the flavors are a lot clearer and brighter to me. I think here in New York, most shops serve a thicker soup, heavier. I’m trying something new. Well, not new to me but new to New York.

So-and-So and I make really great stuff in my country and I’m gonna give you what I make there.’ And they fall on their face. I think that New Yorkers are very sophisticated diners and they deserve to have something re-thought and re-planned. When I say I retooled my recipes, I took these recipes and where I found adjustments were necessary I made adjustments. I mean, I wouldn’t go to Portland and make a huckleberry ramen. The noodles are inspired by the noodles I serve in Japan, but the flour is quite different and the water is different, so they don’t come out exactly the same as in Japan. Frankly, I didn’t really worry about it. Once you start trying to cook from memory and trying to cook things a certain way, I think you lose the spirit of the whole thing in the first place. You’re supposed to make food that’s alive and vibrant and tastes delicious, rather than getting caught up in having to recreate the dish exactly as it was in Tokyo. I’m not McDonalds and I don’t want to be McDonalds. I make good When you first opened here, why food and I want people to enjoy did you decide to retest all of our it. recipes? Do you think the palate is that different here? Ten years ago you moved with your family back to Japan and I’ll tell you why. I’ve been here your wife said you would need for fifty years and seen a lot to be prepared never to live in of really great chefs come NYC again. Here you are again from other places saying ‘I’m starting businesses stateside.

What do you think for the next ten years? Is it a decade of going back and forth to Japan every six weeks? I have no idea. I have a viable business and it’s doing well. I like it there. It’s not a really big business with lots of management. It’s a tiny shop with two guys running it. I’m going to do my best to keep them going and I love going back and taking care of it, and I have a home there. The goal now is to concentrate on a business in America. I’m doing a lot of projects, a lot of media, getting to sell my book, opening two restaurants in the same three-month period, which is crazy. If they do well we’ll think about other projects. I have a lot of ideas, but I believe in staying humble. So I’m going to do my best and see how great we can make these two shops. The goal is to make Clinton Street a fun, neighborhood place. We have a lot of local artwork and we’ll have a really nice garden. I’m hoping it’s going to be a place that anybody in the area can come and really chill out. Do you have a confirmed opening date for Clinton Street? Sometime end of February or early March.

When I returned to New York to open a branch of Ivan Ramen stateside, I was overwhelmed by the enthusiasm and support from the chef community here. Everyone was eager to help me find contractors and realtors, warn me away from legendarily bad locations, and open their kitchens for me to do popups. One of those pop-up opportunities came from chef April Bloomfield at The Breslin. Together, we put together a “nose to tail” ramen event: she butchered a pig and I created dishes making use of the different cuts. One of my favorite touches was our take-home goody bag. For years, fancy restaurants have given their diners granola or muffins for breakfast the next morning. I thought it’d be funny to send everyone home with breakfast yakisoba (stir-fried noodles). Everyone got little vacuum packs of noodles, sauce, and chashu,

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along with instructions on how to cook them. This recipe is a version of those goody-bag noodles. You can use any fresh Asian noodles, but Chinese markets

usually offer fresh chow mein–style egg noodles that are ideal for yakisoba. If you don’t want to make chashu, a couple strips of bacon will work just fine, too. Breakfast of champions!

Breakfast Yakisoba with Chashu and Eggs (makes 2 servings) 250 milliliters (1 cup) water 2 grams (a 1-inch square) konbu 3 kaibashira (dried scallops) 1 dried -shiitake mushroom 25 milliliters (2 tablespoons) sake 25 milliliters (2 tablespoons) mirin 5 grams (¼ ounce) sababushi (shaved dried mackerel), or substitute katsuobushi (shaved dried bonito) 5 grams (1¼ teaspoons) sea salt 1 medium onion, sliced Vegetable oil 2 cloves garlic, smashed and minced 150 grams (2 cups) shredded green cabbage 3 medium carrots, peeled and grated 2 large eggs 300 grams (10 1⁄2 ounces) fresh Asian noodles 4 thick slices PORK BELLY CHASHU (page 127), warmed in its cooking liquid or in the noodle water as it comes to a simmer

In a bowl, combine the water, konbu, kaibashira, and shiitake, and allow to rehydrate for at least 1½ hours, or overnight, in the refrigerator. To make the tare, combine the sake and mirin in a small saucepan over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Cook for 3 minutes, then add the soaked konbu, kaibashira, shiitake, along with the soaking liquid and bring to 176°F (80°C); the liquid won’t simmer, but will be too hot for you to hold your finger in for more than a second. Keep at this temperature for 10 minutes, then add the sababushi and hold at 176°F (80°C) for 5 minutes more. Strain out the solids and add the salt to the tare, stirring until it’s fully dissolved. Reserve until needed. You can make this the night before and keep it in the fridge if you have the foresight.

Bring a pot of unsalted water to a boil for the noodles. While the water is heating, sauté the onion in an oiled pan over medium-high heat until it just begins to caramelize—about 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 3 minutes, then add the cabbage and carrots and cook until tender, about another 10 minutes. Reserve. In a small nonstick skillet, fry your eggs how you like them. I like my yolks runny. Set them aside. Cook the noodles until al dente, 2½ to 3 minutes. Drain very thoroughly, add the noodles to a lightly oiled nonstick skillet over high heat, and cook until slightly crispy, about 5 minutes. Add the vegetables and stir everything together with chopsticks. Add the tare and continue to cook and stir for 3 more minutes. Divide the noodles between 2 plates and top with the chashu and eggs. That’s an Ivan Ramen breakfast!

EAT ME The Ins + Outs of Consumption We eat out quite a lot, with both fervor and intent. And our plan is cover anything and everything worthy, from sea to shining sea. We will be leaning towards coverage of the NYC dining scene, both because this where we are based, and because we feel the big city sets the pace for the rest of the country. That said, if there is a fantastic restaurant in the middle of nowhere that you need to know about, we will write about it. New restaurants, old favorites...whatever is on our plate will hopefully come to be on your future eating agenda. Here’s where we’re eating!

Skál

Lower East Side, NYC This pretty yet petite restaurant defies neighborhood expectations of cool with a country cottage vibe not usually cultivated on the LES. There’s floral china pinned to whitewashed walls, pale blue painted tabletops, and taxidermy (a giant raven, straight out of a Norse Edda, oversees the bar); you’ll feel like you are right at home in a Scandinavian reproduction of the Hamptons. The theme may be Nordic (one of the owners is originally from Reykjavík),

SMOKED MACKEREL

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but the soul is pure urban forager. Each ingredient is carefully selected and nurtured to full CRISPED PIG SKIN potential by Executive Chef Ben Spiegel, whose resume includes an apprenticeship at Noma. Clearly that prestigious gig helped to mold his menu ambitions, provoking all sorts of delicious ideas. He will pickle, preserve and ferment his way into your heart too. what to eat: Start with crisped pig skin rising off of the plate like a magical sea creature, as well as the salt cod croquettes, comprised of in-house cured fish and a lamb fat béchamel (“we

braised in an oyster sauce and finished with freshly grated horseradish. An interesting wine list focuses on organic, bio-dynamic labels mostly hailing from France, but also includes whites from Hungary and Georgia, so you’ll have no trouble experimenting. Save room for the kaleidoscopic beetroot dessert, an unexpected blissful swirl of tangy skyr, concord grapes and sorrel granita.

Rosette

BEETROOT, SKYR & SORREL GRANITA

have lots of great lamb, why waste any part of it?”). Mackerel is hot smoked on premises and served with walnuts, a mound of foie gras powder and steamed “sour” onions peeled down to the inner core. Raw beef is less of a traditional tartare, more modern surf and turf. Subtract the egg, add littleneck clams to jagged edges of pliant meat, and slather grilled bread with more leftover lamb fat (see above). You should also try the Glazed Berkshire Cheeks, which are lovingly

Lower East Side, NYC Fresh off his gig as chef de cuisine at Acme, Nick Curtin is now in command of this spacious fleur (which includes the front bar area, lofty dining room and a huge kitchen in the basement). There’s also a fantastic event space downstairs with a separate bar and private entrance, so if you are in party planning mode for any occasion, this is ‘it.’ Painted iron floral chandeliers serve to remind you of the rose in “rosette,” imparting a slightly vintage sentiment to the bar up front, while the main restaurant’s curved red banquettes and dimly lit aura gives more glam. Warren Hode (BONDST, Cherry) developed the cocktail menu, which has dazzling drinks with ingredients such as sasparilla kumquat bitters (The Bill Cody) and chipotle pink peppercorn syrup (Charm & Moxie). what to eat: Order the house blended, toasted white sesame whiskey to accompany your cashew coated Chicken Cracklins. Exploding with nutty, salty shazaam, a side of hot sauce adds umami. Clam

CHICKEN CRACKLINS

Narcissa

East Village, NYC Hotelier André Balazs and Dovetail’s John Fraser’s new restaurant at The Standard, East Village is an oasis of calm and cool – the crowd may be in downtown black but the ambience and menu seem more Napa than New York City. It’s a nice escape from the surrounding urban landscape, and an interesting juxtaposition with the modernity of the hotel’s façade. Some of the produce featured will be home grown on an upstate SEARED STEAK TARTARE farm owned by Balazs, and the overall Chowder Croquettes gently oozing with culinary concept here is extremely vegetable creamy New England brine are a delicious friendly. The much publicized ground floor has example of re-imagined Americana. Tiny been a revolving door of failed restaurants curls of baby octopus nestled on Carolina unfortunately, but we believe this time they Gold rice (a delicate long grain) offer an inky have the goods and are here to stay. curveball underneath. Dig deep and you’ll find what to eat: Beets roasted over a rotisserie a thick black “emulsion” that we scooped up flame for three hours develop a hollow greedily. A seared version of tartare gets frozen first, the beef is then chopped up after a quick moment of heat. Mixed with a “potato garlic granola,” the meat has a crunchy texture that becomes gradually more addictive with each bite. Veggies on the menu are as highly regarded as the proteins, leeks are burnt to a crisp, the outside layers peeled away to reveal tender onion bathed in ROTISSERIE-CRISPED BEETS sweet pecan butter. A parsnip “steak” with hazelnut butter, creamed crispy texture outside, yet maintain a moist greens and potato purée, is a great facsimile creaminess on the inside. Bright green of a meat-eater’s entrée, but for those who indulge in fatty pork, go for the apple balsamic leaves of brussels are simply delicious in a salad littered with folds of soft speck and flavored belly, or the classic bistro roast translucent slices of manchego. Barley risotto chicken, crispy skin shining with glacé. 24 | Winter 2014

BRUSSELS SPROUTS LEAVES

loosely spills to the plate’s edge (as it should), a milky horizon freckled with firm bites of Manilla clam. The pastrami scented short ribs with kohlrabi and polenta may appear messy on the plate, but the porchetta with bean ragout and broccoli rabe is a perfectly collected swirl of tightly wound pork; both are laudable. A healthy stand in for fries tastes anything but, carrots disguised in golden brown batter are served with a sincerely dipable jalapeño-tofu sauce. The cocktail menu offers a historical lesson on booze. The Jimmy Roosevelt with cognac, chartreuse and bitters is topped off with champagne (1937), while the classic Pink Lady (with gin, brandy and egg white) was apparently invented during Prohibition, circa 1922.

learned his kasakei skills in the Roppongi district of Tokyo, and he has sushi chefdom in his family tree. Exposed brick, candlelit glow, fantasy cocktail menu created by Shingo Gokan from Angel’s Share (another one of our love at first sight locales) — great for groups, great for dates, great sake menu…we come here often. what to eat: The chicken and foie gras meatballs have a poached cracked egg oozing over them, giving the yolk soaked meat a soft texture that’s remarkably appealing. Silky smooth chawan mushi is also subtly fragranced CHICKEN MEATBALLS with foie gras. A dashi glaze shines on the surface of the custard; it’s almost too perfect to break through (lucky spoon). Confit

SakaMai

Lower East Side, NYC Strangely, this place may not be on your radar even though it’s (a) not new and (b) completely delicious. And by completely, we mean that every small bite on the menu inspires a second round, causing one to hail the server like a taxi, hysterical arms flailing midair. Executive Chef Takanori Akiyama

“SOUTHERN” FRIED CHICKEN CONFIT

KANPACHI

chicken is breaded and fried, then covered in a creamy spicy smoked paprika “tartar sauce.” Thick slices of kanpachi are topped with shiso and myōga (ginger), and then lightly brushed with a shoyu glaze. Tiny jewel sized circles of fresh wasabi perch carefully at the curled edge of the fish. Each bite is an outstanding mouthful. Although it feels like more of a dessert than a cocktail, we are obsessed with the Kanaria, a “modern Japanese style piña colada.” A base of sweet potato shochu and roasted pineapple puree is finished with giant swirls of coconut cream espuma. The Ento allows for a performance, the bartender filling your snifter with a cloud of smoky clove and cinnamon. Allow it to soak into the mix of bourbon, Benedictine and Hanahato aged sake prior to consumption.

Rolf and Daughters

Nashville, TN You’ll find that Rolf and Daughters is literally on every best of list in the Nashville area and beyond. Housed in what was once the boiler room of the century old Werthan Factory building (in the historic Germantown section of the city), rustic hints of an industrial past still linger. Worn brick walls, reclaimed wood, factory style lighting and handcrafted

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communal tables all contribute to the overall warmth of this space. Chef Philip Krajeck is a modern maestro of flour and water, but the veggies and proteins on his menu get star treatment as well. what to eat: Beets resting on a sweet and tangy maple yogurt are outfitted with small puffs of slightly toasted quinoa for added texture. A plate of cauliflower with farro and ruby streak mustard greens combines the main ingredient with itself to create crunch; roasted florets intermingle with shaved raw cauliflower. Homemade bucatini with octopus and lardo is smothered in a spicy fra diavolo sauce with Calabrian chilis for an extra layer of heat. We also loved the brightly hued garganelli verde covered in a hearty heritage pork ragout that’s heightened by salty parmesan, as well as dry aged meatballs with “Sunday sauce.” The heritage chicken is brined and roasted before receiving a HERITAGE CHICKEN final sear to crisp-ify the skin; you’ll want to pick off every last piece of bird from the bone. Cocktail recipes shift seasonally but can be counted on for an Italian accent. Campari, Cocci Rosa and Carpano Antica get mixed up with everything from 1776 Rye to Inca Gold Pisco.

READ ME

Noodle Lover’s Bookshelf

Buy a bowl of ramen and enjoy one meal, or learn to make ramen at home, and eat it at your whim forever after! A perfect soup, the winter hibernation project truly worthy of your time and energy. Here’s is our recommended cookbook list, certain to inspire steamy dreams of firm noodles and salty broth. A few titles will even help you to step out a little beyond the bowl. Chef Ivan Orkin spent over ten years living in Japan, and his passion for noodle soup has become his calling card. Ivan Ramen is more than a cookbook, it’s a memoir that follows his trail of success from the beginning, when a friend in suburban Tokyo offered up a place to crash. Create “the complete bowl,” or experiment with recipes for a Chashu Cubano sandwich and Breakfast Yakisoba with pork belly and fried eggs (if you missed it, see page 21 for the recipe!). James Beard Award winning chef Takashi Yagihashi has several well-known Japanese restaurants in Chicago (including the aptly named, Slurping Turtle). Takashi’s Noodles offers numerous variations on traditional ramen; in fact, the entire book is subdivided by specific noodle type. His background includes both French and Modern American training, so many recipes reflect a global mentality. An extensive ingredient glossary ensures a full vocabulary from katsuobushi

(dried, smoked bonito) to mentaiko (spicy preserved roe). Explore Japan’s ramen obsession with Japanese Soul Cooking, which provides a visual on the “anatomy of ramen,” as well as master recipes for all traditional components. This book also delves into alternative bowls, like the Tan Tan Men, influenced by the spicy flavors of Sichuanese dan dan noodles. Udon and soba receive due attention, and there are great recipes for gyoza, kara-age and tempura (ensuring a well rounded menu with soul). Now that he has built an empire and we are all in awe, it may be time to remind everyone that David Chang was once a “kitchen slave” at Craft, who answered phones just for the chance to clean mushrooms amidst the chefs he respected. Momofuku describes his journey from professed noodle lover to ramen-ya aficionado. Some of the 27

recipes will be challenging, but you’ll be rewarded with Momofuku’s glorious bowl of raved about ramen. Ginger scallion noodles and those pork buns will call out to you too. The Oishinbo: à la Carte series has cheeky characters and cartoon chopsticks, making these the coolest ramen related books on our radar. Graphic novellas tell the tale of journalist Shiro Yamaoka’s search for the “Ultimate Menu,” an ideal meal “embodying the pinnacle of Japanese cuisine.” Vol. 3: Ramen and Gyoza focuses on Yamaoka’s quest for the “soul of ramen.” He is pitted against his father, working on the same project at a rival newspaper; trouble ensues. Still a classic for Japanese home cooking enthusiasts, Nobu: The Cookbook was just reissued last year. Cutting techniques are covered (learn how to correctly handle tricky creatures like abalone) and although ramen is not at the heart of this 28 | Winter 2014

book, several recipes do allow for creative noodle expression. Dashi and spiny lobster soup sounds like a good place to start. Try using Squid Ink Soba in your bowl and top with urchin tempura. You’ll also get all of Matsuhisa’s famed restaurant recipes; tartare, miso cod and that creamy, spicy sauce? Check, check and check. The World’s Best Asian Noodle Recipes is a collection from a diverse international group of chefs hailing from Tokyo to Phuket to Maui. Ponder the merits of “fresh noodles vs. dry,” and spend QT with the visual dictionary so you’ll never mistake somen for soba again. Restaurants are listed alongside dishes, so if you find yourself in London or on Ludlow, you’ll know where to head for a taste of original inspiration. Ferran Adrià and Nobu Matsuhisa wrote the forward to Yoshihiro Murata’s Kaseki, a beautiful book that celebrates the exceptional cuisine at Kikunoi in Kyoto. A Michelin three star award winner, this restaurant specializes in kaiseki, but recipes like harvest soup will feed your winter hunger. Stunning photography captures the creative philosophy behind Japanese design, on the plate or otherwise. Menus are divided by seasonality, the ingredients may be tricky to acquire, and everything is very intricate. This will serve as culinary muse; it’s an elegant example of aspirational Japanese cooking.

AROUND THE WEB We Give Good Internet We cruise all day long, so you don’t have to. Instead, just check out our list of cyberspace faves, from online provisions to kitchen gadgets you’ll covet. The things we love we now pass along to you! If you are shopping for an edible way to say “I love you,” look no further. We’ll also give a nod to the emerging power of self-sufficiency, highlighting the culinary company upstarts that we are currently following on crowdsourcing sites. Today’s bright idea is tomorrow’s coolest appliance, or cookbook, or restaurant success story…let’s support our peers! Power to the (food) people. Tout Sweet Pâtisserie Chef Yigit Pura’s background includes stints at Le Cirque and Daniel, so his fine tuned French pastry skills are well established. An online version of the San Fran based storefront (located inside of the Union Square Macy’s) brings his confections directly to your door. From Negroni flavored pâte de fruit to Toasted Tipsy Coconut Marshmallows made with coconut puree, everything has delicious written all over it. Askinosie Chocolate A small time operation with a huge amount of heart, this family run chocolate factory is based in Springfield, Missouri. Great gifts here include the C-Ration™ Month Supply of Chocolate, (for those times when you’re having way more than “just one of those days”) and the CollaBARation™ Gift Pack. These are the heavenly result of a partnering project with companies such as Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams (“malted milky dark chocolate dripping down my wrist lick, lick.”) and Intelligentsia Coffee.

Bourbon Barrel Foods In Louisville, Kentucky you’ll find this food purveyor of everything flavored with bourbon. Get the classic cocktail lover in your life a jar of bourbon soaked cherries or bitters, and make home chefs happy with Woodford Reserve Bourbon Sorghum Vinaigrette. From Bluegrass Soy Sauce (micro-brewed in small batches using local soybeans and limestone filtered spring water) to Bourbon Smoked Sea Salt, this is the best way imaginable to re-purpose old barrels. Sosu Sauces This San Fransisco based company was heralded locally last year for a sriracha - ketchup blend (“Srirachup”) and now they are back with a fundraising effort to launch a new sriracha with a smoky finish. Spice up your life with a super special sauce aged in oak whiskey barrels, no preservatives or chemicals added. They are also adding Barrel-Aged Hot Sauce and a Sriracha Salt to the line up. The company expects to deliver the goods in April. 29

Credits Page 16: IVAN ORKIN photography by Daniel Krieger © 2013. Page 26: ROLF AND DAUGHTERS Heritage Chicken with Preserved Lemon & Confit Garlic. Photography by Andrea Behrends. Page 28: OISHINBO A LA CARTE © 2005 Tetsu KARIYA, Akira HANASAKI/ SHOGAKUKAN. Story by Tetsu Kariya. Art by Akira Hanasaki. Published by VIZ Media.

Cover On our COVER, “Map Of The Culinary Process: Decoding The Genome Of Cooking” is currently on display at The Drawing Center in Soho, NYC, until February 28th. This is the “first major museum exhibition to focus on the visualization and drawing practices of master chef Ferran Adrià. The exhibition emphasizes the role of drawing in Adrià’s quest to understand creativity.” Ferran Adrià: Notes on Creativity will be on tour across the country at the Ace Museum in Los Angeles, the Museum of Contemporary Art Cleveland in Ohio, and the Minneapolis Institute of Art in Minnesota. For more information, please visit The Drawing Center’s website or the individual museum sites. All museum materials courtesy of elBullifoundation.

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