content 6
7
11
13
Editor's Note
Credits
A Toast For The Assholes
Badass Hotties
17
23
41
43
Think In Leather
All Fall Down
Greg Delson
PB Banks
45 Sounds Like A...
49 MarĂa Videl
53 105 109 Just Don't Give A Fuck
Be Very Afraid Of Beauty & Power
People Say I'm No Good...
113 139 143 147 Child I Will Hurt You
A Scream For Fashion
Videogames+Couture= Rankuroi
151 Stocklist
Reckless
credits GENERAL DIRECTION Andrea Bolland Priscila Cano
EDITORS テ]gel Pegamoide Carolina Soto Christian Malibrテ。n Jair Solテュs Pablo Montero Roberto Gaona
7
GUESTS Arantza Lavin Dano Santana Diego Fierce Estephania Gracian Fernando Sisniega Gerardo Carrillo Héctor de la Peña Iride Díaz Jimmy Sirvent Luis Zermeño Melina Narvaez Rafa Borja Thomas Migliorisi Will Oelze
8
A TOAST FOR THE ASSHOLES by: pablo montero
Out of all the messages that you can learn in life, Mick Jagger gave us one in a beautiful song: “You can’t always get what you want.” A tad pessimistic, perhaps, but inciting; inciting in a way that makes you consider that maybe, just maybe, you can get what you want. Rome wasn’t built in a day, and no group, corporation, brand or label has become what they are now without at least one problem in the way and a fight against thousands of other competitors, all struggling to become the next big thing in the market. We know many of those stories, for they too have served to create new products; it’s just a matter of seeing the vast amount of tales that have been transformed into books, series, movies, etc., to realize that, truly, the endeavor one must overcome to be great is hard, but worth it. But hey, this is a fashion magazine, what does all that have to do with this? Well, the fact that the fashion industry is one of the clearest examples of competition is nothing new, with designers, models, bloggers and even interns all fighting to stand out and move one step higher in the industry’s hierarchy. This is one of those places where you’ll be eaten alive if you’re not prepared, and there will be someone else ready to take your place if you fail. A place where everybody will treat you like they are Karl Lagerfeld or Anna Wintour, just how much more aggressiveness do you need? This is not an article looking to demotivate all of you who have decided to work in this field, in fact, it’s completely the opposite, this is an article that looks forward to applaud you. Fashion is, more than a luxury, a necessity for a world in which man wears clothes. Each individual that helps the industry grow bigger and keeps it moving forward must know that he/she is doing something bigger than their self, or even their brand, and they must know that their effort is truly worth it and appreciated; and of course, that competitive attitude in all, the aggressiveness, charm and eccentricity that people in the business have, are some of the things that remind us just how beautiful fashion is. “Hooray for fashion! Now fetch me a coffee, silly intern.”
11
BADASS HOTTIES by: CAROLINA SOTO
Yes, they are hot. Yes, they are badass. And yes, that praise makes them even more attractive. Over the years there have been men who have decided to challenge social conventions and pre-established norms.
13
The Rebel Without a Cause. He only acted in three films, but it was precisely his style and self-assurance that led him to be recognized and remembered after decades. Nominated for two Academy Awards, his legend began after dying in an accident on the “Little Bastard”, his Porsche Spyder 550, in 1955, being only 24 years old. The leather jacket, the skinny jeans, the white t-shirt and the cigarette in the mouth are still replicated to this day.
Since his role in Stand By Me, River Phoenix proved that his personality was framed by his tough attitude. After belonging to a sect and start his career when he was only a child, River was dedicated to acting, singing, and being part of different activist organizations like PETA. In October 30, 1993 he died from an overdose in the Viper Room on the Sunset Strip.
Sure we all know Brad Pitt is not that rebellious, but the words badass and hottie are illustrated in the dictionary with a picture of the actor in the film Fight Club. So we will take a minute to appreciate his abs in those low low jeans.
Special request from our editors. James Franco, the actor, screenwriter, producer, model, writer, painter, and student gives himself the luxury of doing whatever he pleases, whether that is hosting the Academy Awards in a state of… well... fun, or studying at UCLA, Columbia or NYU inbetween films. Whether it’s in an ad for Gucci or with a t-shirt, Franco looks perfect.
14
THINK IN LEATHER by: ÁNGEL PEGAMOIDE
ASAAD AWAD http://awad.es After 14 years of a successful career as a creative director of several advertising agencies, Assaad Awad, born in Beirut, decides to break up with everything that revolved around his former life and starts doing what he really loves. He left everything to start a workshop in Anton Martin, Madrid, where he designs extraordinary pieces. Love is what took him to Spain and now he knows he will never leave Spain. Assaad works many types of materials and luxury goods, leather, accessories and jewelry... in a crafty and edgy way, respecting the quality and workmanship of each piece. “In a world where everything is copy/paste, craft was needed back.” His peculiar name has not been an impediment for Awad to get to the place where he is now; from Maison Mugler to Lady Gaga’s wardrobe, Rossy de Palma, Madonna, and also collaborating with Juanjo Oliva, Maya Hansen, and Moises Nieto (all Spanish designers). The years he spent intruded in advertising marked the starting point for the creation of each of his collections; for which what comes firstly is the concept, later the material, then the sketches and finally the execution. Assaad works with a technique named flat to shape, this technique gives volume to leather, to work it and get a three dimensional shape, thus giving advantage to all material properties giving us the opportunity of bending, folding, etc., similar to origami. In this occasion he presented Medusa SS2013, inspired by one of the best ways of evolution, coupled to a chaotic beauty and to a fragile and subtle appearance, sponsored by Swarovski Elements he was able to enrich the collection with crystals giving them a unique and exceptional brightness.
17
Asaad Awad’s Portrait: Photographer: Matias Uris Rey. Styling: Arturo Argüelles Molinete. Polo by Lacoste Jeans by Levi’s Leather Apron by Assaad Awad
18
yvanfiend http://yvanfiend.net Yvan Fiend, born in León Guanajuato, MX, and who has dabbled into fashion in a purely self-taught way, makes this project under his name which also includes design and multimedia, it started in Mexico City in 2010 as a continuation to the brand ChicleChicle::. He has mainly been devoted to the development of accessories tinged of eroticism, occultism and socioeconomic allusions. Each proposal is diversified with media, looking for that brand identity to be of visual character. His newest collection is called Ecdysis, from the Greek ekdyein (undressing), it refers to the way of “shedding or releasing of a garment” and defines the renewal of the integument, body coverings, presented in arthropods and reptiles. The collection was made with hand-cut leather and following the line of the brand using chains and metallic pieces. Most of the pieces are reversible; one-side shows leather engraved as reptile skin and the back with worn look metal shades (alluding to the reptile skin and “geological” change).
19
Model: Rossana Lazcano Photographer: Alekzander Wolf Hair & Make Up: Janis Dominguez Styling & Accessories: Yvan Fiend
20
GREG DELSON by: ROBERTO GAONA
41
First of all, let me ask you about yourself In 8 simple questions: Full Name? Greg Delson Favourite Movie? Clueless Favourite Song? Cyndi Lauper’s “All Through the Night” Favourite Singer/Band? Fleetwood Mac Clothing Line? For getting dressed up: Theory Social Media? Instagram Listening to on repeat? “Remember ( Walking in the Sand)” by the Shangri-Las
Now let’s go to FATHER TIGER Where did everything start and how did it happen? I met my band-mate John Russell at recording engineering school in Hollywood back in 2006. We didn’t officially start making music together until 2010 when we created FATHER TIGER. How did you come with the name FATHER TIGER? It’s a combination of nicknames we had when we were kids. My half is actually a translation from Spanish. When I was working during college, my coworkers used to call me “Padre” – like a priest, cause I would never do anything bad. I’ve always been a pretty good kid. LOL
In your last video, “First Love”, you show support to marriage equality and that’s pretty awesome, what are your thoughts on this? We 100% support equal rights for everyone, and this includes marriage. I’m proud that we are able to contribute by putting forth a video that conveys this message of love and equality. Since this is a fashion magazine tell me, what is fashion for you? Is it something that you just wear or is it like a lifestyle? Fashion to me is something that allows you to put your best face forward to the world. I personally have a bias towards comfort and typically like to combine looking my best with also feeling great.
What are your expectations about the band? We are having an amazing time making music and sharing it all over the world. I would love to be able to keep doing that and And finally, what’s music for you? What inspires you to hopefully continue to reach a larger and larger audience. sing? Music to me is everything. I have been singing since before I Okay, I can say that I love your videos, but how did you learned to speak. I especially love singing with other people become up with idea of them, specially “Head Hung Low”? I cause there is something really amazing about blending voices in still don’t get it… harmony that reminds us how beautiful the world can be. The video concept for “Head Hung Low” was actually created by the director, Jeffrey McHale. He is really talented and creative, and we love collaborating with him. I think it’s an artistic video that allows the viewers to come up with their own interpretations in relation to the song lyrics.
42
PB BANKS Visualize this: We live in 2013, where everything is at your grasp just by having a computer and internet access; where every 5 seconds new talents pop up everywhere around the world. With this in mind, a question rises: Why do we never hear of something cool coming out of Mexico? It might be that it does exist, but we just haven’t found it yet; and it’s a clear possibility, because with so much content being created every single moment on the web, combined with the growing speed at which we consume information AND forget it (hello viral videos), contribute to the fact that good projects can be easily ignored.
Wearing all-black-everything, wilding in mosh pits and making obscure fashion and videogame related jokes in-between songs at his shows, Banks is focused on widening the horizons of the Mexican music scene and create awareness to the world about how there does exist talent on par with that of other countries, as well as belie the false conceptions people in Mexico have of hip hop.
Of course, we could recognize him as just another guy in the enormous wave of artists that emerge every single moment on the net, as said at the beginning of this article, but PB Banks is a notorious example of the globalized world in which we live in and Amidst all this rises PB Banks, an alternative hip hop artist from the influence of the internet on people, creating a new product Veracruz, Mexico, where he crafted his debut album High Moon via the mixture of all his interests with the purpose of delivering Rising, which has been doing rounds on the blogosphere for a a message. That message has been received, and serves as guiwhile now. A brief listen helps to discover an eccentric mixture dance to all future artists that may pop up in Mexico: If you’ve of influences that shape his sound, creating large emphasis on ever thought that there’s no talent in the country, it may be that the word “alternative” regarding his musical genre; using samples you just haven’t looked well enough. from jazz, rock and orchestras together with trap (a genre almost nonexistent in the country), his verses tell us a story open to High Moon Rising, by @PBXBANKS, is available on Bandcamp for many interpretations, playing simply as a rags-to-riches tale that, free. (pbbanks.bandcamp.com) if analyzed, transforms into a critique of the modern day lifestyles of the 2010s.
43
If you type “new female singer” on Google, you’ll probably get more than 299 million answers. There is an impressive number of girls worldwide who are immersed in the music biz, but only a few of them manage to succeed. They may have the attitude and initiative, but maybe not the talent. Here a couple of girls who are doing it and who soon will give much to talk about. Cocovan France /@iamcocovan Cocovan isn’t new in music, since her childhood she has been creating music and it was when she was 15 years old that she composed her first song, but now she has captured some looks through her web series Cocorama to dig deep into music and the recording studio. Taking inspiration from many enigmatic sources, such as Sci-Fi, retro-futurism, and Disney movies, along from her Serge Lutens or Jean Paul Gaultier, creating between everything a pop universe where fashion, magic and fantasy get together. Mascara, her debut single, can be directly classified as sweet French synthpop, but there’s much more behind it. Combining her melodious voice, balancing it so that it doesn’t result into something too sweet, demanding the attention it deserves due of the personality it has. Cocovan produced and wrote everything on her own, putting her mother tongue aside, creating a lot of expectations around the world, and positioning herself as one of the best songwriters that arise this year.
Lorde New Zealand /@lordemusic Being only 16 years old and still in school, Yelich-O’Connor aka Lorde is a success in her hometown New Zealand and she is reaching a worldwide audience. Apparently, this summer her single Tennis Court has reached its peak, being played everywhere, and respecting the style she has managed so far. Two videos and five singles with very well-written lyrics are her material thus far. Her first single, Royals, has over 700000 views and is still gaining fans. Lorde is rising quickly, as she just premiered her EP The Love Club last year and she already toured in Australia. It is the most important debut for a girl since M.I.A.’s Paper Planes five years ago. I give her some extra points just because she’s a fan of Sofia Coppola like me.
sounds like a... 45
.
Fe United Kingdom /@femknights It seems as if creating mystery was in fashion, although very little is known about Fe, the girl behind the hat, she keeps gathering views on YouTube and Soundcloud. Everyone has been captivated with Let It Go, the single with which she shows herself to the world. It is easy to compare her with Lana del Rey, a beautiful girl singing softly and sensually wearing a red lipstick creates memories that remind us of Lana del Rey, but Fe is way much more than that. Her elegant and meticulous voice leads us to a balance and tranquillity that potentially transmits a captivating humble energy. We really expect that Let It Go and Remarkable Affair are only the beginning of many many songs…
Selma Oxor Mexico /@selmaoxor Born in Monterrey, Mexico, Selma aka Leticia Oxor Beeton is a composer and scenic artist who in 2012 moved to Mexico City to perform a few shows and start recording her record Usher 69, under the label Vale Vergas Discos, with 5 electro punk tracks produced by Humanoid Mutations. In March 2012, she performed at NRML’s music festival in her hometown Monterrey, with Grimes, Girls, araabMUZIK, Pictureplane and Prince Rama; as well as performing at the Mexico Festival Bow in NYC. Her unique mixture of sticky electropunk has make her earn the title of Electro Trash Goth’s New Queen of Mexico, being compared with her past project Bam Bam, Grimes or Dani Shivers. Our substantial vamp has been highlighted in national and international blogs, including Club Phonogram, MTV IGGY, Negative Youth, Sicario TV, among others… Her first single, Dotes de Cocina has generated enough buzz in the underground scene of Mexico City. She is surely one of the few girls who is doing something very intense and who has to be followed because she will give plenty to talk about in the coming months…
by: ángel pegamoide 46
Once again, we talk to, now beauty editor, María Videl about her new roll at NYLON México and why she is so passionate about the world of beauty. She told us that she stopped being NYLON’s WEB editor this past June and that she started as beauty editor since March… How was the transition from fashion to specifically beauty? There were many things that made me want to make that transition. I’ve always loved the world of beauty, plus I got sick of the fact that Mexico does not get the big names in fashion but it does in beauty; also Nylon didn’t have a beauty editor. What inspires your vision for beauty? Tumblrs, friends, pretty girls. Favourite make-up artist? Pat McGrath, Val Garland, Ossiel Ramos, Ana G. de V., and Maripili Senderos. BEAUT Y TIPS couldn’t be missed: Clinique taught me that the first thing that must enter your body is a fruit that has a lot of water, like watermelon. Koleston taught me how to wash my hair (only fingers, not the nails). Maripili taught me how to do my hair (start at the ends and just go up), Kabuki (makeup artist) taught me that you can make lighter shades adding water. NARS had taught me that makeup is better applied with your hands than with brushes. Mundo Rosa (Hildelisa Beltran) taught me you should not comb wet hair. My dermatologist taught me a thousand things too, such as: you need to change the covers of your bed each week, shower with warm water or as cold as you can stand, etc. … What is your beauty routine? Day: John Frieda’s shampoo for reds, Xiomania’s handmade soap for body, Uriage’s liquid soap for intimate parts, Cetaphil’s soap for face, KitosCell for the scar on my hand, Garnier’s body lotion, Kiehls’ hand lotion, La Roche Posay’s Effaclar H for face, La Roche Posay’s sunscreen, Redken’s diamond oil for hair. Night: I wash my face with Cetaphil and then I put on Bliss No Zit Sherlock. My routine changes very often because I have to be trying out new products but what I never change are Uriage, Garnier and Kiehls. Indispensable products in your beauty routine: All of them!, that’s why I don’t stay overnight at anyone’s place haha
Top 5 (or more if you have) of ALL the products we need to try and fall in love with: My top 5 is: Diptyque’s perfume (I won’t say which one so no one will copy me, lol), Clinique even better eyes dark circle corrector, Uniqone for hair, Muji swabs, La Roche Posay sunscreen. Top 5 essential affordable products (those that can be found even in the supermarket): Maybelline mascara, Sally Hansen nail polish, Duo eyelash glue (it is great to glue whatever you want in your face), Garnier body lotion, Vaseline for cracked lips. Top 5 specialized products (those we find in department stores): Estée Lauder Midnight Recovery Serum (especially before boarding planes), Clinique Even Better Eyes dark circle concealer, foundation Armani, Tweezerman tweezers and Benefit Porefessional. You don’t leave home without: (beauty products) My Muji mirror, NARS or M.A.C. lipstick and La Roche Posay sunscreen. Tips for skin care: Do not touch your face, the more you wash your face the more oily it will be; do not self-medicate skincare, go to a dermatologist or look for the counter in a super professional brand like Dr. Perricone or Murad. Do not change your routine abruptly, at least give yourself a week off. Do not use products you don’t need such as anti-wrinkle if you’re only 20 years old because you will only become immune to the effectiveness of the chemicals they contain. Each skin is different, not everyone works with the same. Be disciplined, only then you will see results and especially invest in your beauty and body and then spend on other things like clothes, accessories, etc. Top 5 grooming products: American Crew hair waxes, Kenzo or Calvin Klein fragrances, I HATEEEE guys using Axe deodorant! How do you plan a beauty shoot? How do you choose which make-up you use, what hairstyle? It depends on the concept and the physiognomy of the model (I almost always do a casting before), if she has mini eyelids I don’t plan super shadows; sometimes I care about trends, sometimes I don’t. Once I know what I will do, I think about who are the right people to do so.
50
be very afraid of beauty and power. by: andrea bolland
Among the films that have reached the movie theatres this year one could say that two of the most important films this year are certainly Harmony Korine’s “Spring Breakers” and Sofia Coppola’s “The Bling Ring”. These films take excess and tabloid spectacle as springboards to explore crime and punishment (think Tony Montana meets Paris Hilton). The implicit critique is that “you do the crime, you do the time”. Both films are about a group of teen girls who are part of the millennial narcissistic post-feminist culture we live in nowadays. In the first one, we see a group of spring-breaking coeds led by Disney darlings Selena Gomez and Vanessa Hudgens party too hard with dope-slinging James Franco and face the consequences; in the second one we see a group of West L.A. girls in Juicy sweatpants rob celebrity homes. Two films which can arguably be seen to be letting their young female protagonists actually be youthful and fun, yet tough and independent without compromising their femininity.
infinite power via the thrill of taking a life just because they can, or rampage revenge for shooting Rachel Korine’s character Cotty earlier, or if they are just having some fun. Hudgens and Benson whisper to their character’s parents on their iPhones after a “NBD” killing spree; it’s that kind of cringe worthy idiotic “this is so inspiring, I’m ready to change my life. I want to be a better person. I want to be good... The secret to happiness is being a good person. We really found ourselves here. It was so nice to get a break from reality for a little while” attitude people have after discovering a self-help book. I guess Eat, Pray, Love didn’t work on these girls. Killing was their revelation. At least they are moving forward, and getting a second chance. Our psychosexual sociopathic bunnies are comic book heroines that were made for a generation that will never watch Tank Girl or Natural Born Killers. “Everytime” by Britney Spears being coined as an “uplifting song” as they strut around in pants with DTF embezzled in pink on the back while swaying around with machine guns.
Spring Breakers is a violent MTV masturbatory fantasy holding up a mirror on today’s desensitized youth. It is like a scratched CD of a Skrillex single playing the way it isn’t supposed to be, the same way the iconic bacchanal holiday reverses on its “spiritual experience” seekers. I won’t even call them characters; the way they speak is like reality TV on ketamine (think Pornhub meets Zoloft). Who needs intellectual monologues when you can watch Disney girls go wild with semi-automatics?
The Bling Ring isn’t about a broken celebrity obsessed generation. It’s about toxic friendships that exist between young people today. It’s the most accurate depiction of the millennials thus far in Cinema. Vapid, depressing, pop culture infested, without morals and a future that nobody knows about because our brains have been stuck on the only thing that matters, the moment your eyes look into your iPhone camera and you see your reflection. The moment; updating the moment, being in the moment, hackIt repeats dialogue and euphoric day-glo lit images in a hypnotic ing the moment by living in a Sci-Fi society with endless limits and unearthly way that gets under your skin. The violent under- and no consequences. Because even Sofia Coppola said it on an tone beneath “found footage” party debauchery and all of the interview “When I go to a concert, everyone is filming and phonoir palm trees at the beach all might mean something to you by tographing themselves and then posting the pictures right away. the end of this mind bender. The way it tells a story personalized It is almost as if your experiences don’t count unless you have an for the person watching it is more unconventional and exciting audience watching them”, and it is precisely that what we can see than anything else I’ve seen in a very long time. You get handed reflected in this film, teenagers constantly updating the moment. the puzzle pieces and figure out how to put everything together in your own way. We get to feel the freedom and happiness they Despite (or perhaps because of ) the illicit nature of their activiendure during a shot of the girls scootering around Florida at ties, Marc and Rebecca naturally can’t help but share their glories midnight. The movie is a drug high, and a “feeling”, it’s a physical with some other kids they know, and it isn’t long before their reaction in the moment the viewer has to experience via what is gang of thieves begins to gain new faces. Most notably, they’re happening in-front of them. It’s completely real; it’s surreal and joined by the fame-obsessed Nicki, Emma Watson, a prim socioinsane in the most intimate ways. To me, it opened up topics on path who’s home-schooled by her mother in the pseudo-spiritual the power of teen homicide, feminism, morality, depersonaliza- teachings of The Secret. For Nicki, The Secret and its core Law of tion, racism, homoeroticism, survival skills, mass media and pop Attraction posits a world in which everyone is owed what happiculture parenting the youth all wrapped into one. ness they can imagine. The downtempo massacre finale at the ending is stomach kno- There’s a moment in the film in which Nicki learns that her friends tting because it feels as if there is no remorse around taking a have been looting the vacant homes of young celebrities, and – life. The way it is executed is very light. They are desensitized and with a reflexive vacancy – immediately declares, “I want to rob!”. dissociated in such a casual way. We don’t know if the reason was
106
Watson is playing a thinly veiled fictionalization of teen fameball Alexis Neiers, a home-schooled reality TV star at the periphery of the crime spree that briefly enjoyed national attention circa the series finale of “The Hills” (or, as some may refer to it, 2010). Her lust for fame wasn’t necessarily representative of the group as a whole but Neiers’ detachment from her own desire, the way in which she can speak her wants without understanding what drives them, is convincing testimony to the idea that, if you don’t know who you are, the most seductive thing you can be offered is the opportunity to be someone else.
fearlessly acquisitive Rebecca (based on real-life Bling ringleader Rachel Lee) and Nicki. “I want to lead a huge charity organization. I want to be a leader. I want to lead a country for all I know,” Watson’s blithely self-assured character tells the press at one point, repeating a Neiers quote from Sales’ 2010 article, “The Suspects Wore Louboutins,” on which The Bling Ring is primarily based. While on Spring Breakers we see our teen girls, minus Selena’s Faith, getting ready to rob the chicken shack to fund their Spring Break vacay telling each other “We gotta do this, just pretend you’re in a videogame. You can do this, just fucking pretend it’s a videogame. Just get that fucking cash and go on spring break” and Philosopher/film theorist Gilles Deleuze wrote (and I’m para- immediately our spring breakers teens rob the chicken shack with phrasing here) that only bad films take place in the present, and more self-security anyone could ever imagine. “The Bling Ring” suggests that perhaps the same could be said of people. The film comes to its darkest point when our selfie Physically safe and autonomous in ways that teenage girls have entitled burglars are walking down Melrose in slow motion con- never historically been, socially and financially secure to the point fidently as Kanye’s “Power” plays. At the surface, you want to of boredom, and endowed with limitless self-esteem, Korine’s punch them in the face but when you see it as a metaphor of the and Coppola’s heroines have vaulted all the way to the top of narcissistic attitude (whether it is social media driven or not) that Maslow’s hierarchy of needs. Actualization is what they’re after. raised these kids to commit the crimes they did; you will feel sick. It’s no coincidence that Nicki and her mom are practitioners of The Secret, or that the Spring Breakers crew approaches armed So the question here is, what do these films have in common? robbery like a video game to be won. These girls aren’t stealing What makes them even relevant? Well, the films have more in celebrities’ red-carpet outfits and shooting up gangsters’ parties common than a shared subject matter: they identify a new arche- to fill some hole in their lives; they’re doing it to fulfill their destitype. Despite major tonal differences — The Bling Ring attempts ny. Be very afraid of beauty and power. to understand young women and their relationship to celebrity culture, while Spring Breakers settles for exoticizing and drooling over them — both movies paint the millennial teen girl, especially 2010-2013, as a consummately liberated creature. A drastic departure from the insecure, anorexic mean girl and the secretly beautiful nerd in dire need of a makeover who we’ve seen over and over in film and on TV history, she’s as arrogant as any guy on the football team. They aren’t only seeking pure physical gratification, but also living without fear of sexual violence. In a Spring Breakers scene, Cotty flips the power balance on a potential aggressor, telling him: “You’re never going to get this… because you’re a little bitch.”; while Taissa Farmiga’s character in The Bling Ring appears at her boyfriend’s bedroom window one night brandishing a freshly stolen gun and ready for a romp. But for this mythical new-model teen girl, sexual agency isn’t even the point. It’s tangential to her lust for money, power, fame, and the elusive nexus of those desires, which Nick Prugo (the sole male member of the Bling Ring) identified to Vanity Fair writer Nancy Jo Sales as “the lifestyle that we all sort of want.” In fact, The Bling Ring’s fictional version of Prugo is the only self-conscious character in the film, tormented by the fear that he’s not as attractive as his peers. Marc’s introspective nature and anxieties about his appearance make him a sharp contrast to
107
people say i’m no good...
by: Priscila cano
Over time there have been numerous cases involving psychopaths, murderers and others. Death, blood and violence can be- doing that kind of things make you feel “cool” and you do them come synonyms for this, but… how do we know if we may be without consciousness, like smoking, start partying, drinking alliving with a psychopath? cohol, etc. Youth is different, our criterion is formed, we know the difference between good and evil and the consequences of Thinking about being so close to that is scary. Studies say that our actions, but the adrenaline of doing something forbidden can 1 out of 100 may become one, I mean, in childhood we play become addictive. with different children; you fight, laugh, share toys, etc, they become your friends for a certain period, then you grow older, For example, Charles Manson took advantage so well of this life forget about them, suddenly you want to know what’s happening stage, but not personally because at 30 he had lived half of his life around you so you turn on the news and there you see that child- in prison, but with drugs, sex and a hippie life he managed to be hood “friend”, guilty of a heinous crime. the mastermind of heinous crimes. Influencing a group of young vulnerable people with nonsensical ideas and admiring someone Given that statistic, it’s amazing the amount of people who might as if he was God leading them to perform acts they never thought do such cruel crimes. Apparently the source of this empathy for they would ever be capable of. the pain of others arises in childhood, selfish parents, social rejection, and abuse, among others. Situations that can turn people The way in which innocent people were murdered is something into a violent person. that cannot even be described, you realize just by looking at the images of the crimes that it is amazing how there are people who Youth is perhaps the most impressionable stage of life. Let’s say can do so much damage, hence the complaints everyone has in puberty you’re influenced by forbidden things for your age, about society, which they blame to politicians.
110
Perhaps the kind of admiration these people had for Manson led them to do crazy things. There is no one who enjoys being rejected; they all have the need of being accepted into something, some group or society, perhaps this helps to improve low self-esteem and wanting to fit in a certain group makes them think that way. After learning that psychopaths are characterized by having no pain or empathy for others, you may think if you are one. Everyone at some point become emotionally cold, which does not mean we have that mind, unless you have had a traumatic event in your childhood that fosters such vengeful thoughts. Well, it never hurts to try to be nicer to the people around you. Every head is different and maybe someone’s world around you is somewhat deranged. What I want is to make you think twice of the person you bully everyday; you never know what teasing can cause‌
111
a scream for fashion by: Jair solís
“Apparently, human life’s dignity wasn’t predicted in the plan of globalization” -Ernesto Sábato
When the workers have a contingency such as a funeral, medical checkups and medications, they draw upon personal loans so they cannot leave their jobs to pay their debt in the place that they Have you ever wondered: where were those jeans you’re wearing have contracted these loans. To pay back to these places, some made? Who made your blazer? Stop for a moment and read the workers work more than the 10-12 hours mentioned above, in label: Made in Pakistan, Cambodia, Bangladesh, and many other order to have more income. Asian countries. ALERT The textile industry in these countries is fundamental for the The NGO “Clean Clothes” has revealed the data mentioned in this economy; transnational corporations through providers are article.Through various campaigns such as “living wage” requires installed in these countries. Suppliers manufacture for major companies to pay the workers a wage that can meet the basic needs they have. brands such as: H&M, GAP, Levi’s, Mango, an Zara. First images are everything. For this reason it is essential to dress well and appropriately for every occasion.
The working conditions they have are not always the most favorable. Recall the incident on April 24 in Bangladesh when the “Rana Plaza” building collapsed and killed hundreds of people.
In the campaign “Play Fair” it was demanded that companies respect workers’ rights, since the working conditions were poor and with low wages. The NGO worked with unions and managed brands like Nike in Indonesia to accept pay the unpaid overtime.
In Cambodia, 91% of textile workers are women between 18 and 35 years old. In this country, in 2011, 2400 workers fainted in 25 “No sandblasting” is a campaign to stop the sandblasting; sandblasting is a technique used to make denim look worn. This techseparate incidents. nique is regularly made manually applying sandblasting pressure, and it can cause severe health damage. Other options exist to The reasons: Wage. A Cambodian garment worker earns 66 USD per perform sandblasting, but they aren’t the cheapest. Several workmonth. ers who perform this technique have resulted in a disease called Food. The food they consume is very low in calories; for silicosis, which results from the inhalation of silica particles. (Siliexample, if a woman weighs 50kg. the recommended calorie in- ca is a component of sand). take is 2200 calories, but they consume only 5-600 calories. There are still many brands to join the NGO Clean Clothes’ call Work. Working hours are from 10-12 hours. and their campaigns. These three factors: food, salary and overwork have affected the health of textile workers, giving rise to multiple people fainting in SOLUTION workshops and factories. Unions must reach to promote efficient agreements with suppliers and brands. Unions should require food assistance for textile Taking into account that the workers earn 66 dollars a month, workers. As insist in the security protocols in factories and verify many of them are immigrants and therefore they must pay rent compliance with labor standards, depending on the laws of each and send part of their salary to their families. The money they site audited. have to spend on food is almost nothing; many of them get more However, as a society we cannot leave all solutions to unions and calories through the oil they consume in some foods.
139
NGO’s campaigns, which as in the case of Clean Clothes have contributed much to solving a huge problem. We, as consumers, can also demand. We can join media campaigns, but activism can start from home, in the comfort of your room while watching the next collection of Zara or Mango. What you pay for a pair of jeans is what a worker earns per month on a grueling workday. ( Wages represent 1.5% of the price you pay in stores) I’m not against consuming fashion; I am against the way it is made, the agreements with suppliers, and conditions of the workshops and factories of these providers. Perhaps it is time to look to the local shops and independent designers. As consumers we often don’t want to pay an independent designer garments, because we consider the price as “excessive”. But we do pay it for a recognized brand. Fashion is the same, no matter if it is made in Cambodia or in the corner store.
140
How do you manage to merge your style with your designs? I think my style is already implied in each of my designs, because in each of them I shift all my tastes, my thoughts, my fantasies etc., so they already have an obligated load of Isaac Rankuroi. What’s the first word you think when you’re done with a collection? Next!!! Why ? Haha, I love making collections and developing a different concept in each of them; and I feel it’s like carrying a child, at least I see it almost equal to that, lol... but when I’m done I’m already thinking about the following collection.
Why Rankuroi ? Well, Rankuroi’s history as a word is something funny; when I started the brand I wanted to find a word with which I was identified and that’s how I investigated how “black orchid” was said in Japanese... the point is that as a researcher I would be starving, because I checked it back not so long ago and it means nothing lol... So, in a nutshell, I invented Rankuroi, and it obviously is a situation which I don’t dislike at all because now I feel I have the mission to give it a meaning with my work. Describe yourself in 3 words: Fey (Google her), cerebral, cataloger
What are you looking for with Minut0 2:32? Minuto 2:32 has been a great success, and what pleases me the most is that it is fulfilling the purposes that were needed, I wanted it to be a very marketable brand, with a dose of really grounded trends for an average man looking for something new and interesting but who is a bit afraid of very conceptual and unusual things, all this framed in a dynamic and fresh style. What makes it different from Rankuroi ? To be frank, Minuto 2:32 and Rankuroi do not look alike at all haha; because on one hand, Rankuroi is an elite brand, full of “Couture-like” details where I create super elaborated concepts and where garments are only made by request for each collection, so as custom designs. Let’s say that Rankuroi is my artistic whim.
Was it difficult to position yourself in a country that is So, who is Isaac Pineda before and after Elle Mexico slowly learning to wear national fashion? I think tha’s a small cap with which everyone bumps at some Diseña? Elle Mexico Diseña definitely marked a before and after; especial- point. But I think it is necessary to deal with this adversity in ly since before, Isaac was a guy who was already working on his order to do an excellent job as entrepreneurs to captivate conbrand, he already had some experience that backed him up, but sumers with our products. It is true, we must raise awareness so he lacked of a media momentum, of something that put him in that Mexicans consume national fashion, however there is a lot of front of potential costumers; and that is how I feel now, EMD is responsibility on the part of the designers to make this happen. an excellent showcase . When is that moment where you realized that fashion de- You get to design a dress for a celebrity (dead or alive), who would you pick and why? sign was your passion? It’s funny, because at first I wasn’t going to study Fashion Design, There are many that come to my mind... LOL, but if dead ones are in fact I wanted to study VideoGame Design haha... but the cir- available as well, I think I pick Miroslava Stern. I believe she was a cumstances weren’t ideal and Fashion was my second choice. To woman of great beauty and great personality, very Rankuroi haha. be honest, when I started I was only trying, I really didn’t know anything about fashion, but as soon as I started I fell in love and Advice to those who wish to undertake in this world: became passionate about my career, and now I really love it be- That they have to be aware of all that it implies, and they should cause it is an art that is worn. trust in their talent and skills. Oh, and to never forget that this is about discipline, talent and tons of patience.
144
WILL OELZE
THOM MIGLIORISI
ARANTZA LAVIN
FAVOURITE WORD? Dikka YOU’RE THROWING A PART Y, WHICH CELEBRIT Y CAN’T MISS IT? Brad Pitt WHICH SONG MAKES YOU DANCE? The Morning — The Weeknd YOU’RE IN PRISON, WHO IS YOUR CELLMATE? Johnny Knoxville BEST PLACE TO VACAY? Captown, South Africa IDEAL VACAYS IN 3 WORDS: Girlfriend, family, party ROLE MODEL? My dad YOU CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT? Water I WANNA ROB... A watch FILM YOU WOULD LIVE IN? Avatar WEIRD FOBIA? Fish MAJOR ADDICTION? Fitness
FAVOURITE WORD? Swift YOU’RE THROWING A PART Y, WHICH CELEBRIT Y CAN’T MISS IT? John Frusciante WHICH SONG MAKES YOU DANCE? New Daft Punk album YOU’RE IN PRISON, WHO IS YOUR CELLMATE? Will Ferrell BEST PLACE TO VACAY? Puerto Escondido & Tulum, Mexico IDEAL VACAYS IN 3 WORDS: Family, sun, party ROLE MODEL? My brothers YOU CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT? Nature I WANNA ROB... A Fender Strat! FILM YOU WOULD LIVE IN? Lord of the Rings WEIRD FOBIA? Nipples MAJOR ADDICTION? Spliff
FAVOURITE WORD? Sugary YOU’RE THROWING A PART Y, WHICH CELEBRIT Y CAN’T MISS IT? Eminem WHICH SONG MAKES YOU DANCE? Rude Boy — Rihanna YOU’RE IN PRISON, WHO IS YOUR CELLMATE? Charles Manson BEST PLACE TO VACAY? A big city or the beach IDEAL VACAYS IN 3 WORDS: Active, hot (but not too much), fun ROLE MODEL? Marilyn Monroe YOU CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT? Nutella I WANNA ROB... An organ FILM YOU WOULD LIVE IN? Matrix WEIRD FOBIA? Motleys MAJOR ADDICTION? Adrenaline
reckless
147
ESTEPH GRACIAN JIMMY SIRVENT LUIS ZERMEÑO FAVOURITE WORD? Gladiator YOU’RE THROWING A PART Y, WHICH CELEBRIT Y CAN’T MISS IT? Usher WHICH SONG MAKES YOU DANCE? Get Your Shine On — Florida YOU’RE IN PRISON, WHO IS YOUR CELLMATE? Taylor Lautner BEST PLACE TO VACAY? Brugge, Belgium IDEAL VACAYS IN 3 WORDS: Unforgettable, wedding, active ROLE MODEL? Me YOU CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT? Mobile phone FILM YOU WOULD LIVE IN? Tengo Ganas de Ti WEIRD FOBIA? Spiders MAJOR ADDICTION? Adrenaline
FAVOURITE WORD? Wey WHICH SONG MAKES YOU DANCE? Get Free — Major Lazer YOU’RE IN PRISON, WHO IS YOUR CELLMATE? Adam Levine BEST PLACE TO VACAY? Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico IDEAL VACAYS IN 3 WORDS: Sex, drugs, Paulina ROLE MODEL? Adam Levine YOU CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT? Mobile phone I WANNA ROB... Money FILM YOU WOULD LIVE IN? Trainspotting MAJOR ADDICTION? Tobacco, alcohol, marihuana, sex, Paulina... I don’t know...
FAVOURITE WORD? Pussy WHICH SONG MAKES YOU DANCE? Lose Yourself To Dance — Daft Punk YOU’RE IN PRISON, WHO IS YOUR CELLMATE? Alessandra Ambrosio BEST PLACE TO VACAY? Yucatan, Mexico IDEAL VACAYS IN 3 WORDS: Sex, drugs, rock & roll ROLE MODEL? Marlon Teixeira YOU CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT? Phone I WANNA ROB... Megan Fox FILM YOU WOULD LIVE IN? The Hangover I, II, III MAJOR ADDICTION? Sex
FER SISNIEGA YOU’RE THROWING A PART Y, WHICH CELEBRIT Y CAN’T MISS IT? Mariah Carey WHICH SONG MAKES YOU DANCE? Blurred Lines — Robin Thicke YOU’RE IN PRISON, WHO IS YOUR CELLMATE? Someone who knows how to get fun... Lindsay Lohan? BEST PLACE TO VACAY? New York, USA IDEAL VACAYS IN 3 WORDS: Meet new people ROLE MODEL? Tom Ford YOU CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT? iPod I WANNA ROB... A record store WEIRD FOBIA? Tripofobia MAJOR ADDICTION? Fitness, taking care of myself
148
stocklist AMIETE BERSHKA DIEGO DOM DIMEPIECE DULCE O TRUCO ERO ERRE SIETE FOREVER 21 GIVENCHY H&M HÉCTOR DE LA PEÑA MANOV MARGIELA X H&M PULL & BEAR REYDEN RIP ROSA PISTOLA STRES THE CUT UNIF YTINIFNINFINITY ZARA
151