Poe Go Winter 2020 by Poe Go

PoeGo THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF

FROM THE

MOUNTAINS TO

THE SEA

P. 08

The Open Road Awaits P. 11

W I N T E R 20 19

Safari in... Scotland?

Dear Traveler

FOR THE

O ’S &M TM U O B READ A

IP TR

If one of your New Year’s resolutions is to travel more, we’d love to help you keep it. (And it’s so much easier than resolving to give up wine.) Spring break is right around the corner, with summer close behind, and if you’ve yet to make travel plans there’s still just enough time. We have endless ideas, from the mountains to the sea—Taylor River Lodge in Colorado, Belmond Maroma Resort & Spa in Riviera Maya, and Four Seasons Hawaii, to name but a few. For the forward-thinking, here are some upcoming events to keep in mind for 2020 and beyond: Beethoven 2020 anniversary events in Vienna (and all the Sachertortes your heart desires); the epic World Expo Dubai 2020; and the Ryder Cup Ireland 2026 (with a stay at stunning Adare Manor, where falconry, high tea, and, of course, golf are the order of the day). We rarely indulge in trash talk, but . . . a word on plastics. Rwanda recently became the first country in East Africa to issue a complete ban on all single-use plastics. The ban affects all plastic carry bags and other single-use plastic items. In June of 2019, Tanzania joined Rwanda and Kenya—along with more than 60 other countries—in banning, partially banning, or taxing single-use plastic bags. Just something to keep in mind during your travels. Finally, we’d like to wish our colleague Beth Walter all the best in her retirement. Beth began her distinguished career at Poe Travel in 1980 and was passionate about travel, particularly cruising. Here’s to smooth sailing, Beth!

Your friendly travel agents,

Margaret & Ellison

OAST REGON C ON THE O ELLISON PARKER. AN D D N R FRIE WITH DEA

ATULAT IO GR N N O

to Ellison on once again being named one of Travel + Leisure’s A-List travel advisors and one of Condé Nast Traveler’s Travel Specialists. So pro.

MARGARET IN BOT SWANA.

B O TS WA NA ON PAGE 18

ROARING ‘20s

WE’RE READY

3 T H E O F F I C I A L M AG A Z I N E O F P O E T R AV E L

Contents

IN A TIP OF THE HAT TO FRED POE, WE OFFER YOU THIS:

Ellison received the following from a St. Petersburg concierge, describing what sounds like a happening spot in that city. Dasvidaniya and enjoy. Begemoth is back—The eclectic surroundings is invented by designer Anastasiya Halchitskaya. The life of the first floor and winds beats around a bar, around which, first, dance, and secondly, drink. Sing in “Behemoth” on the second floor, in the territory of karaoke. Professionally equipped with light and sound, and experienced singers will help to see and hear themselves present. In the menu east happily meets with the west. Weekend in the “Behemoth” are hot and loud. For quite everything that happens in “Behemoth,” in responsible actor, presenter and showman Maxim Bryzgalin, so it does not turn out to be bored in any case. Home is in a hurry— all the good girls and fashionable men are already here.

How Early Should You Get to the Airport?

experiences

The Open Road Awaits Drives of a Lifetime with Red Savannah

lodging we love

sketchbook

AGENT REPORTS

ANGELA SIMON

Trains, planes, and cable cars Angela recently returned from an edifying trip through Switzerland, Italy, and France on which she learned how to navigate the Swiss rail system, explored the hidden gems of Florence, and discovered what it means to glam it up in Monaco. All in all, a successful mission.

R U FO AN OF GE ES LA & STEVE TORR

E A S O N S

LA KE C OMO

SWITZERLAND

Angela flew into Zurich and headed to Interlaken where she settled into Grand Hotel Victoria Jungfrau & Spa. The terrace overlooks the lake and mountain, and you can watch paragliders land on an open area in front of the hotel throughout the day. Angela reports, “The staff was just great. . . . It’s a good spot to spend a few nights and take day trips.” She next took the train to Lauterbrunnen to see Europe’s largest subterranean waterfalls. It proved the perfect activity for a rainy day, because you ride on a funicular inside the mountain. The experience is akin to going caving without all the spelunking equipment and fear. Talk about putting the “fun” in funicular. On to Wengen, a charming carless town (like Murren), for a roam about in the drizzle. (The rain did nothing to dampen spirits.) In Lucerne, Angela visited famous Chapel Bridge awash in geraniums. Next up: a serious spa experience. Bergenstock Resort may well be the apex of luxury with its phenomenal views and a superb spa that only the Swiss could dream up. The spa encompasses far more than your average massage and sauna. In one area, you float in a salt pool whilst listening to soothing sounds in the dimness, taking care not to bump into other spa goers. (“It was like a sci-fi movie,” says Angela, but in the best sense.) Another area included a light therapy chair (not to be confused with a tanning bed), while yet another had a waterbed-like chaise longue for longueing. Who knew there were

so many ways to relax? Nice, too, that the bath in Angela’s swell suite had a double-sided fireplace and sweeping views. Many thanks to Bucher travel for all their help! ANGELA’S TIP: “The Swiss Traveling Bellboy luggage transfer is genius. Do not do it any other way! You just take a little backpack on the train and avoid hauling luggage on and off or storing it in a locker. It’s huge.” BEST DAY: A day that included all modes of transport to get to and from Mt. Pilatus proved to be one of Angela’s favorites. After walking to Lucerne pier, she took a boat to and then cogwheel train up Mt. Pilatus. Crowded though it was— there were many near misses with unruly selfie sticks— the view from the top was dramatic—windy, freezing, and icy, but breathtaking, nonetheless. Angela noted that the structure on top (which houses cafes, etc.) bears a striking resemblance to a James Bond villain’s lair (and it does!). “The trip to Mt. Pilatus exceeded my expectations. I thought it was spectacular, and it’s really fun to take a boat, cogwheel train, cable car, gondola, and bus to get there. It was so much colder and windier than I imagined because it was nice in Lucerne, so take a coat, hat, and gloves. I had a short hike and ate lunch at one of the restaurants. It was one of my favorite days of the entire trip,” reports Angela. ITALY

Angela took a train down to Milan, where our lovely IDI friend, Filippo, met her and took her to do some sightseeing. They strolled around the rooftop of the

Duomo for its stunning views (but with the crowds, it’s not for the faint of heart or acrophobic). She then installed herself at The Four Seasons Milan—Italian opulence at its best with toothsome deserts and Aperol spritzes at every turn. In true Italian-fashion, the servers at the hotel (actually opera singers) burst into song sending up a “bravo!” from the diners. Angela was quite taken with the diminutive chairs provided for purses in restaurants—because in Italy, handbags too deserve a seat at the table. The next day brought a boat ride on Lake Como with our friend Steve Torres of Four Seasons. Alas, George Clooney was not in residence at that time, though he sent his best regards. They walked around Bellagio.—a cute town with lots of shopping and outdoor cafes. On another tour of the city, the guide took Angela to offthe beaten-track sights—like Leonardo DaVinci’s little vineyard tucked away from crowded city streets. “You would never have guessed it was there,” says Angela. She got to walk around its sweet courtyard and even go into the house itself. (This is a nice add-on after seeing “The Last Supper” across the street.) Angela next took a train to Florence—again porter service was essential—and stayed at the stunning Four Seasons Florence. Even by Four Seasons standards, it’s kind of off-the-charts. The 15th-century Palazzo was once owned by Pope Leo XI, making it one of the few papal residences where you can sleep. There’s also an immense 11-acre private park surrounding the two

Renaissance buildings that offers an escape from the bustle. Angela says, “They have amazing grounds with gardens, a pool, outdoor dining and a spa—maybe a full city block. The buildings are filled with frescos. I can’t say enough about how pretty this is.” A phenomenal piano player enchanted guests at the bar—so good is he that it’s said Sir Elton John and Sting spontaneously sat down to accompany him during their stays. It all lent itself to a festive, distinctly Italian atmosphere—a lively wedding party at brunch, along with lots of families and locals, only enriched the experience. The walking tour of Florence was a highlight because of Elizabeth, their amazing guide from IDI—as we all know, a dynamic guide can be a game changer. “She was just fantastic— spontaneous, knowledgeable, enthusiastic,” enthuses Angela. As in Milan, they got to explore spots secreted away from the throngs, like

OVERALL HIGHLIGHTS Trip to Mt. Pilatus in Switzerland, Elizabeth with IDI (Florence guide), sunset yacht ride to Monaco. the Museo degli Innocenti, Museum of the Innocents, an old orphanage that has a rooftop café with amazing views and Laurentian Medici Library. She also enjoyed a stroll through fragrant Bardini

Garden, Giardino Bardini, and had a memorable gelato. After all, so much of Italy is strolling (often with gelato in hand), and Angela did her part. FRANCE

It’s hard to leave Italy, but a little easier knowing that France awaits—and GrandHotel du Cap-Ferrat Four Seasons. All the way at the end of the cape, the palace is located in the middle of 17 acres of lushly landscaped gardens overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. In the heart of the French Riviera between Villefranche sur Mer and Beaulieu Sur Mer, St Jean Cap Ferrat perches on a peninsula jutting into the azure waters. This ancient seaside village has for decades drawn celebrities and politicians from all over the world—and now, Angela. They visited Fragonard perfume factory, explored Eze and Villefranche sur Mer, and toured Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild (also called villa Île-de-France). “The

Rothschild villa is a beautiful old house with great gardens and views of the sea. Every 15 minutes they turn on the fountains and music is played. It’s really fun for an afternoon stop,” recalls Angela. Thank you go our friends at Lafayette who did a superb job arranging Angela’s sightseeing while there. So much splendor could exhaust a gal, but more was in store. Angela concluded her trip on a high note with a surprise dinner in Monaco—and this time, the transportation was a sunset yacht cruise. “Our captain was fun and charming, and the boat was so great looking.” They raised their glasses of champagne to Bono and The Edge in passing, as they zipped by the side-by-side rockstar residences on the coast. We’d like to raise a glass to Four Seasons, who made this trip both dazzling and fun.

VENDOR Q&A T H E O F F I C I A L M AG A Z I N E O F P O E T R AV E L

The Ice Man Cometh

How Early Should You Get to the Airport? It is said that travelers typically fall into two camps: those who arrive at the airport as close to takeoff as possible and your dad, who insists on arriving hours early. Who’s right? Just how early you should you get to the airport? Here we offer not a comprehensive guide (we don’t have time, we’re trying to catch a flight), but a few hard-and-fast rules. First, consider the following when trying to find that timing sweet spot. How big or busy is the departure airport? Is it a busy time of year? Is it a busy time of day? Can you run an eight-minute mile? Do you have access to faster lines because of mileage status, first-class tickets, or pre-screening? Are you traveling with extended family (including small children and older people)? Are you a small child or older person? What would it cost if you missed your flight?

For domestic flights at a major airport, if you have bags to check, get there two hours early before; if you have no bags to check, make it 90 minutes before your flight’s departure time. Remember, a domestic flight can and will take off without you even if your checked bag is on the plane. Furthermore, if you do plan to check baggage, that’s even more of a reason to get there early. Those bag drop lines can be long, and if you don’t meet the baggage check-in cutoff (typically 40 minutes before departure for domestic flights), you most likely won’t make the flight. For smaller regional airports you can probably safely shave arrival to the airport to 90 minutes ahead to check bags and 60 minutes out for carry-on bags only. (FY-fly: It’s always a good idea to review your airline’s guidelines and check-in requirements.)

On busy days, like the Friday of Labor Day Weekend and the day before Thanksgiving, you might want to add an extra hour to the recommendations above. You’re much more likely to miss a flight if you’re booked on a top holiday travel day, when long security lines are most common.

Chilling out with Jon Olafur Sigurbjornsson of Private Travel Iceland

Iceland has been a hot destination going on a decade now and doesn’t seem to be losing any steam (except from its many celebrated geysers). We tracked down our friend and colleague Jon Olafur Sigurbjornsson, Founder/Head Guide of PTI, to ask him what makes this destination so popular and how the country has changed as a result.

Do not assume airlines or fellow passengers will always let you move to the front of the security line if your plane is about to leave.

For international flights, get there three hours ahead of departure. On international flights, the plane is less likely to take off without you if your bag is already on board. But if you don’t show up at the gate for last call, the airline is more likely to pull your bag than hold the flight. But, remember if it’s a full flight (like most), and you aren’t in the boarding area within the airline’s specified time frame, they could give your seat to another passenger and bump you without paying any compensation. It doesn’t actually matter whether the airplane door is open or closed. (This also holds true for domestic flights, but the timeframe is usually 15 to 30 minutes from departure, but check your airline’s rules.) That being said, planes can taxi away from a gate as early as 10 minutes prior to scheduled departure. Once the plane is full, even if you’re not the one in your seat, it’s going to leave.

We recommend using the MyTSA app to check how busy the airport is likely to be on your departure date and time and applying for TSA PreCheck or Global Entry.

Although fliers are pretty set in their ways on this issue, latecomer or early bird, the resounding advice from most experts and officials in the airline industry is to err on the side of caution rather than risk missing a flight, especially given how unpredictable airports and air travel can be these days. Okay, Dad, guess you were right.

“

I want everyone who comes to this magical island to have extraordinary experiences even if it’s just relaxing and enjoying being in the moment.

POE TRAVEL: Describe one extraordinary experience you’ve arranged for clients. JON OLAFUR SIGURBJORNSSON: I have so many extraordinary experiences with my clients that it’s hard to describe just one. I have held many Game of Thrones-themed parties and Viking parties where I hire Icelandic strong men to come and show their strength. I have carved out 1,000-yearold ice from a glacier and cut it into little ice cubes so a whiskey enthusiast could have it in his favorite whiskey during his stay. I have built a troll lair in a lava tube for a five-year-old so she could give the troll a letter and ask the troll to meet her. Her face when the troll came to visit her few days later is something I will never forget. So I have many favorite moments, but I want everyone who comes to this magical island to have extraordinary experiences even if it’s just relaxing and enjoying being in the moment. There’s some concern that Iceland is becoming over-touristed. What’s your response to that? Yes, there are some concerns, but for me it’s nothing to

worry about. I started in tourism in Iceland when we got about 200,000 visitors a year. I did everything in my power to increase that. I want people to come and see this island as it’s so unique. Today we have about 1.8 million a year; to put that in perspective, Mallorca, an island near Spain, gets 14 million a year and it’s half the size of the biggest glacier in Iceland. So it’s true that when you travel to the biggest waterfalls in Iceland you will see people, but we guides who travel privately have our secret spots where you can be alone and enjoy our island. The island is so big, and with so many beautiful places it’s easy to take people away from the crowds and enjoy. I am really happy that Iceland has become so popular; it’s something I have been aiming at all my professional career. But also for the last 18 years I have been searching for secret spots so my clients can enjoy in peace. Do you have a favorite Icelandic dish? I love Icelandic lamb; it has roamed free since 874 and eats the best herbs and grass around our island so basically

marinating themselves for us. I also love lightly salted cod. Many people don’t think about Iceland as a foodie destination, but our restaurants are amazing— that’s one thing that always surprises my clients the most. Where do you like to go when you travel? Since I am pretty well booked all year around, my vacations are spontaneous. I have a six year old, and when I find a week to 10 days I will go somewhere warm and check into a resort that has a nice pool. My daughter thinks she is a mermaid and can easily be in the pool for seven hours straight. I am also waiting for her to get a little bigger as my clients have told me about some amazing places to go, too. So when my daughter gets older, we are going to explore the world together. What is one travel essential if going to Iceland? The right clothing for that time of the year. Reykjavik is the most northern capital in the world. During summer it can get warm but also the day after can be cooler so the right clothing can do wonders.

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EXPERIENCES

ROAD TRIP! ROAD TRIP! ROAD TRIP!

The Open Road Awaits . . . Drives of a Lifetime with Red Savannah Ahhh, the siren call of the open road . . . can you hear it? We can, and we like what we hear. Red Savannah, a company we admire for their out-of-the-box thinking, have reimagined the road trip and are offering these thrilling new itineraries. Time to hit the road!

Southern Coast Explorer Australia 12 NIGHTS

Culinary Road Trip in Europe 12 NIGHTS

Drive the spectacular Great Ocean Road staying at fabulous boutique hotels along the way; explore southern regions of Victoria and South Australia with stunning coastal scenery, wineries, national parks, and the charming, cosmopolitan city of Melbourne. Visit Kangaroo Island for the opportunity to see koalas and, of course, kangaroos in their natural environment and discover the rugged mountain scenery and Aboriginal rock art sites in the Grampians National Park.

Gourmands, driving enthusiasts, and curious travelers will delight in this 13-day road trip, working its way from San Sebastián—the understated beach-side home to 16 Michelinstarred restaurants—through the lesser-known Basque borderlands and into France for scenic forests, coastal climes, and fine Bordeaux wines.

Classic New Zealand 15 NIGHTS

Explore America’s stunning west coast from San Francisco to Los Angeles. Spend time walking in Yosemite National Park, roam the boutiques and beaches of Monterey and Carmel, and ride 17 Mile Drive—one of the world’s most beautiful drives. End with a drive along famous Highway 1 to palm-fringed Santa Barbara and star-studded Los Angeles.

The open roads of New Zealand are pure delight, with little traffic and vast panoramic landscapes. Explore the beautiful beaches and clear waters of the Coromandel Peninsula and geothermal marvels at Rotorua, continuing to South Island, where luxury lodges and fine vineyards complement whale watching and dramatic mountains and fjords. Oslo to the Fjordlands Norway 9 NIGHTS Two days in cosmopolitan Oslo pave the way for a week exploring Norway’s fjords from land, sea, and air. Enjoy walks and water pursuits by day—and local cuisine and cozy firesides by night. Motoring enthusiasts will delight at the sight of open roads winding endlessly into the distance, framed by breath-taking views.

Road Trip Through California 15 NIGHTS

Road trips not your thing? Red Savannah recently announced a new itinerary that lets you explore Antarctica by private jet on a 10day trip that starts and ends in Cape Town, South Africa, with incredible adventures along the way—including visiting an Emperor Penguin colony, exploring ice tunnels, and spending a night in the South Pole.

VENDOR Q&A

What Dreams Are Made Of A Q&A with Louise Murray of Dream Escape SCOTLAND

Dream Escape offers the ultimate in inspirational travel to England, Scotland, and Ireland, specializing in exclusive properties and private castle stays for couples, families, and multigenerational groups. Louise Murray, a Creative Planner at Dream Escape, has years of experience working as a Destination Specialist for the UK and Ireland. Her many travel adventures with her own young family make Louise uniquely qualified to plan family programs—and really just about anything. Louise is always on the lookout for new and exciting ideas that allow clients to get behind the scenes and immerse themselves in experiences normally off limits to the public. Popular programs include off-the-beaten-track chauffeur-guided touring, city breaks in London, Dublin, and Edinburgh, set-jetting events like Harry Potter, Outlander, and Game of Thrones, and whiskey and golf trips. This Q&A offers insight into what makes Dream Escape— and Louise!—so extraordinary. POE TRAVEL: What’s something unique you’ve planned for clients?

TO DI SC OV ER M OR

E, VI SI T:

ape.co.uk

dreamesc

LOUISE MURRAY: One of the most memorable and unique trips I have planned was for an elderly American gentleman who had served in the Air Force in England during WWII. He wanted to return to England one last time with his daughter to show her where he had been based and where he had spent an important part of his life. We planned a wonderful, gently paced trip for him combining privately guided tours of IWM Duxford and the Churchill War Rooms amongst others. However, the key part, after a lot of research, was finding a wonderful lady in the town where he had been based who held an incredible set of archives covering the time he’d been there. Ahead of their arrival, she did a huge amount of work finding photos of him and his comrades along with images of the airfield and base. Making a trip truly personal is what creates the most unforgettable memories.

What is one travel essential you never leave home without? An open mind. Some of the best travel experiences I have had have been the ones that have not been planned. Often the suggestions have come from our local guide or driver and have been something as simple as a small music concert, a superb local restaurant, or a hidden away beach. Travel is all about leaving your expectations at home and letting yourself be open to where the day may take you. When you go on vacation, where do you like to go? I have two young children, and I love to take them to places that open their eyes to new cultures, interesting people, and experiences. We have been lucky enough to travel a lot and have been to Malawi, Morocco, and the Middle East as well as Europe—all of which have left an imprint on their young minds. We are all active so love to balance our holidays with exploring the local area as well as time on the beach. I am a big foodie, and if I travel on my own, I love to include a food-focused element, be it

Why Your Next Safari Should Be in Scotland

a visit to the local fish market or a foodie walking tour of the town. I love meeting local producers and trying their produce. What are the top places people want to visit at the moment? In such a heavily connected world people are now looking to “disconnect.” A beautiful lodge deep in the Scottish countryside with no wi-fi gives families the perfect opportunity to reconnect with one another and rediscover a world away from their tablets and i-phones. Travelers are also seeking more activitybased experiences with local people. This may be hiking in the National Parks or kayaking in the Lakes of Killarney or, for a gentler pace, baking Irish bread in a thatched barn or trying your hand at sheep herding. For many, travel is not just about seeing different places, but about becoming immersed in a different world. A lot of travelers want to experience the local way of life, and more often authenticity is becoming a key factor when planning their trips.

Invite Ripley the sea eagle to come along; she’s a sevenpound beauty trained to catch fish in the local waters. With an impressive wing span of seven feet, she is a formidable hunter and can easily take fish up to four pounds in weight. Ripley is of the many raptors who visit Glenapp through their partnership with Elite Falconry.

The word “safari” evokes images of elephants, lions, and giraffes roaming the African savanna. It doesn’t really elicit thoughts of a picturesque Scottish castle, but Glenapp Castle wants to change that. They’ve just introduced the Hebridean Sea Safari in conjunction with the launch of the new Glenapp Castle Boat— and we’re wild about it. This adventure allows you the opportunity to explore the Scottish isles in a way few will ever experience. Over three days and two nights, a professional crew will take you to remote islands, coastal castles, and distant inns, as well as provide plenty of wildlife watching. Expect 20-foot-long basking sharks, dolphins, minke whales, seals, and over 40,000 birds, including puffins, guillemots, gannets, and razorbills. Roddy Leitch, the boat’s exuberant skipper and former harbormaster, accompanies guests to offer his expertise on Scottish sea life—an easy task considering he knows the area like the back of his hand. While viewing the diverse sea creatures is paramount, you’ll also be given a chance to go ashore to visit a hidden castle garden, an ancient monastery, an archaeological site, and an award-winning whiskey distillery. During these outings, the crew will go ahead to pitch luxury glamping tents (in remote settings) and cook up a feast, so it’s ready upon your arrival. The luxe tents are teepee-style, inspired by the classical African safari. They boast comfortable beds with downy duvets, Tartan rugs, and, most importantly, hot water for a relaxing shower. A private chef on board cooks up sumptuous feasts with ingredients such as lobster, oysters, racks of lamb, and mackerel. We recommend a pre-dinner dram or two.

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REGENT CHOICE SHORE EXCURSIONS

All Aboard for a Dramatic, Dynamic Train Voyage What is it about train travel that inspires such romance and nostalgia? Who doesn’t remember standing on a train platform as the timetable rhythmically shuﬄed overhead? The sound like a flock of birds taking flight. We can still recall that feeling of being able to go anywhere at a moment’s notice . . . the pregnant pause before the destinations shifted into focus and the world opened wide. Simply put, it was the excitement of “where to next”? At Poe, we’ve continued to ask this question for almost 60 years. In this spirit, we offer you a train voyage that makes our heart sing.

BUDAPEST  LAJOSMIZSE  KECSKEMET  SIGHISOARA  BRASOV  VELIKO TARNOVO  PLOVDIV  BELGRADE  MOSTAR  SARAJEVO  LJUBLJANA  TRIESTE  VENICE

Regent Choice Shore Excursions offer another level of engagement. Gain an elevated perspective soaring above cities, forests and mountains on incredible helicopter excursions and uncover the intimate and beautiful charms of local life with a variety of tours designed to enrich every moment ashore.

BALKAN ODYSSEY Budapest to Venice JUNE 2020

Experience Europe from an entirely different perspective as you glide between Venice and Budapest in complete privacy and luxury aboard the Golden Eagle Danube Express. On this journey, you’ll discover the enchanting cities and breath-taking landscapes of Transylvania and the Balkan nations. You’ll love the leisurely pace as you’re transported to some of Europe’s most intriguing destinations, all whilst in the comfort of your own private carriage. This eight-day adventure takes you to some of Europe’s most historic and beautiful spots.

The beautiful thing is that travel still elicits that feeling, that flutter of anticipation. Guess that means we’re in the right business.

GO LOCAL TOURS Sometimes, the best solution for anyone looking to uncover off-the-beaten-path experiences is to start thinking like a local. Go Local Tours provide a more direct way to learn the culture of a destination through the communities within. Enjoy the hospitality of a local family when dining in their home and witness traditional crafts and cooking methods handed down through generations. Experience the world through the eyes of those who actually live there and discover the best of what you didn’t know about your favorite destinations.

Along the way, you’ll witness a spectacular Puszta horse show in Hungary; tour Sighisoara in Romania, a World Heritage site rumored to be the birthplace of Dracula; wind your way through the Carpathian Mountains; visit Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria’s ancient capital; explore fortifications from Celtic times, medieval tombs, and Turkish baths in Belgrade, Serbia; travel to the historic city of Mosta in Bosnia and Herzegovina; ride a mini-train deep into famous Postojna Cave in Slovenia to see the ethereal network of stalactites, stalagmites, and caverns; and then roll on to Trieste to climb to the famous Church of San Giusto dating back to the 13th century. You’ll end in glorious Venice and experience its many delights before heading home.

GOURMET EXPLORER TOURS Taste the cultures of the world with our specially curated, Master Chef-led, Gourmet Explorer Tours, unique to sailings aboard Seven Seas Splendor™ and Seven Seas Explorer®. Please your palate and expand your culinary knowledge with each of these delectable tours across a multitude of destinations. WELLNESS TOURS Transcend the moment as you expand your mind and strengthen your body with a Wellness Tour. Practice yoga in the shade and beauty of an ancient olive grove, surrounded by the stunning Mediterranean, and soak in the healing waters of a natural hot spring, bathing in its restorative minerals. Mend and heal yourself in amazing ways — both old and new — as you travel throughout the world and make the most of these rejuvenating experiences.

LUXURY PERFECTED Enjoy Up TO $1,000 Regent Choice Credit on 90 Select Voyages We invite you to fulfill your wanderlust on an unforgettable journey where every luxury is included. Set sail and feel free to embrace every moment as you discover something you won’t find with anyone else, anywhere else or at any other time. Join us for what will be . . .

An Unrivaled Experience™ Our oceans connect and move us. They offer life, color and beauty while providing passage to the great wonders of our world in a way unlike any other. From music, history and the culinary arts to wildlife and adventure, there are amazing memories to be created in every destination, whatever your interest. Delight in some of our favorite excursions as we sail around the world to engage each destination in its most glorious state.

AGENT REPORTS

CASSIE CRANE

Cuba questions? We’ve got answers. Are Americans still booking trips to Cuba? How is travel there shaping up for 2020 and beyond? The regulations put into effect in June 2019 by the Trump administration eliminated U.S. cruise-ship calls to Cuban ports and put an end to the People-to-People (P2P) program which was most commonly used by Americans to visit Cuba. This seemed to temporarily put the kibosh on travel to Cuba. As of this writing, rules for Cuba travel continue to change. Recent announcements by the U.S. government have given some the impression that independent travel to Cuba is no longer possible; conflicting information has left many Americans confused about how and if to travel to Cuba. The short answer is: yes, you can travel to Cuba. To clarify, there are 12 existing categories under which Americans

can visit Cuba, including humanitarian, family visits, academic, religious travel, and professional meetings, but one, Support for the Cuban People (SCP) is the sole category that enables the average traveler to legally visit Cuba. Travelers have two options. The simplest is to go with a tour provider, which ensures that the trip adheres to the rules regarding accommodations, paperwork, and activities. (This would be our suggestion, and we have just the tour operator for the job.) The second option is independent travel, but planning such a trip with airfare, accommodations, paperwork, and a full schedule of compliant activities gets tricky. Poe’s Cassie Crane recently returned from Cuba with some interesting intel on where to stay, where to eat, which sites to visit, and more.

CASSIE CRANE BY A VINTAGE AUTO

TO KNOW Initial impressions after “Life is not easy for the people arriving in Havana: of Cuba. They’re on food “It really does look like time rations; there’s no fresh dairy stopped in the 1950s . . . They to speak of, and places often use old cannon balls and run out of water (stick with barrels to block off pedestrian bottled water—even to brush streets . . . If you like rum, you your teeth. Better safe than are in luck; mojitos and other sorry). That said, the spirit of rum drinks are everywhere the people and place is alive (although they are just as and well, and they welcome good without the rum) . . . tourists.” Live music can be heard from your hotel room, coming from the street sidewalks and parks, TO SEE AND DO restaurants, and hotel lobbies. • Cuban Missile Crisis bunkers • The Bacardi Building Music is a huge part of the • Cigar factory—“One of the Cuban culture. The best views coolest things we did. There’s are from the many rooftop even a cigar sommelier.” bars and restaurants. Rico • Rum factory (Havana Club) Tours is knowledgeable about • Finca Vigia or Hemingway’s the process for Americans House, San Francisco de to travel legally and made Paula—Don’t miss seeing his it simple to visit. The tour boat, “The Pilar,” inspiration guide, Adrienne—who was for The Old Man and the Sea. once a teacher—was full of •E l Cementerio de Cristóbal information, speaks three Colón—Founded in 1876 in languages, and was quick to the Vedado neighborhood answer questions.” of Havana, the cemetery, named for Christopher Columbus, is notable for its many elaborately sculpted memorials. • Cannon Ceremony—A lesser-known but worthwhile attraction, held each night at the La Cabaña fortress. Soldiers dressed in 18th-century uniforms fire a cannon over Havana bay at precisely 9:00 p.m. It’s an historical reconstruction dating back to the colonial era to signal the end of the day and the closing of the fortress gates. • Xanadu Mansion/Dupont House—”Its elaborately carved railings and supports are all mahogany, and it includes a one of the world’s largest privately-owned pipe organs and one of the first private working elevators. It’s also a picturesque place to have lunch.”

DASHING ARTIST SELLING HIS WARES ON THE STREET

Cassie’s Hotel & Dining Recommendations

(they’re often one in the same)

“Keep in mind that you don’t go to Cuba for the food . . .The best views of the expansive city are from the hotel rooftops where you can enjoy the sunset or the pools.” B&BS Hostal Buen Viaje, Remedios— traditional, good location My Proud Havana— a small modern chain, perfect for couples and families LUXE Hotel Saratoga— “Beyoncé was a guest as well as the Rolling Stones; go for hors d’oeuvres on the rooftop.” Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski OLD SCHOOL The Hotel Nacional de Cuba— “Loved it! Full of fun facts . . . has the original Spanish tile. A national monument, this iconic hotel is rich in history. A list of the rooms of famous guests is available at the front desk, and several are even named after their most recognizable occupants. In its heyday, Havana, ‘the original Las Vegas,’ was a hotspot for the glamorous set (and the mafia) to indulge in gambling and general revelry. The Mafia had a huge presence in Cuba. The former casino onsite served as the setting

for the Havana Conference, a meeting between the American and Sicilian Mafia in 1946. This meeting is mentioned in the film The Godfather Part II. There is a museum in the hotel’s gardens dedicated to its role in the 1962 Cuban Missile Crisis. To know the story of the hotel is to know of the history of Cuba.” RESORT Mélia Internacional, Varadero— “The most beautiful pristine beach I’ve ever been to, and the resort is all Inclusive. World renowned for crystal clear water and powdery white sand, plus no noisy jet skis!” TRADITIONAL RESTAURANT Ivan Chefs Justo— ”Served family style in a Cuban paladar, the literal translation to ‘palate’ and used exclusively to refer to restaurants run by selfemployers. Frequenting places like this is a great way to show support for the Cuban people.”

POE FACT: Veteran Poe traveler and dear friend Jeane Hamilton saw JOSEPHINE BAKER perform at the Nacional Hotel in its heyday.

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LODGING WE

LOVE

Camp out? More like camp out-of-sight!

Experience a New Frontier with Aman Camp out to tune in People who love Aman, really LOVE Aman (and those who don’t just haven’t experienced it yet). Such is the passion that these pristine places inspire—and now, much to the delight of Aman-ites, there is Camp Sarika by Amangiri. Amangiri is a luxury desert retreat located in Canyon Point, Utah. For 10 years it’s been a noted destination for its gorgeous desert landscape, including mysterious canyons and brightly colored rock formations. To celebrate its first decade, Amangiri is set to open Camp Sarika by Amangiri in April 2020—camping to the next level. A short hike or drive from the resort itself, amid an unearthly 600-acre landscape of towering mesas, slot canyons, and rust-colored sands, Camp Sarika consists of 10 canvastopped tents, each with its own private pool. The pavilions have one to two bedrooms and clear views of mesas to the west so you’ll never miss a sunset. Once the sun is down, you’ll be able to enjoy your own living and dining area, bar, and private terrace complete with fire pit (s’mores anyone?). Oh, and that private pool? It’s heated, so you need not worry about chilly desert nights. In addition to the tents, there’s a main pavilion and restaurant, spa suites, a larger main pool, and a Jacuzzi. Though a secluded back-to-the-wild experience, Camp Sarika still provides total access to the rest of the resort and all its amenities—nice. The restaurant serves a daily changing menu of wilderness-inspired cuisine for breakfast, lunch, and dinner from its open kitchen, as well as snacks and afternoon tea. Fresh Utahsourced produce and locally raised meats are used to create rustic-but-refined rotisserie and fire-pit dishes, as well as an extensive array of vegetarian and vegan options. You’re also free to take advantage of the dining options of Amangiri whenever you wish. Camp Sarika truly feels set apart from the rest of the world— an enclave of meditative seclusion in one of the most geologically

dramatic places on Earth. Yoga and meditation sessions are held outside, all the better for communing with the soul-stirring surroundings. With five national parks and the Navajo Nation Reservation in its immediate proximity, Camp Sarika is also a unique entry point into the wilds of the Old West and a springboard for adventure, with guided desert and mountain hikes on its own trail system, a program of slot canyon expeditions, and a bespoke Sarika via ferrata route. Camp out? More like camp out-of-sight! Family retreats The cozy, back-to-nature vibe of Camp Sarika is ideal for guests of all ages, and the camp is equipped for families of every size, with twobedroom tented Pavilions available and extra beds provided as needed. In addition to the private firepit, every pavilion has telescopes for evening stargazing sessions with the fam.

AGENT REPORTS

MARGARET KEMP & MILDRED COOPER

Botswana with Belmond On a recent trip to Botswana with Belmond, Margaret Kemp and Mildred Cooper experienced safari life at its most luxe and encountered all forms of wildlife along the way. They learned how to identify honey badger scat, took to the skies with a handsome helicopter pilot, encountered a melee of monkeys, marveled at a pack of spirited baby hyenas, and lounged poolside with a hippo (well, sort of). SOUTH AFRICA

After a brief stop in Cape Town, with VIP treatment all the way (at the airport and beyond), the pair headed to Grootbos Private Nature Reserve for two nights at the Forest Lodge—a luxury ecoreserve close to the Southern tip of Africa tucked among mountains, forest, and sea. “We arrived mid-afternoon and the set out for a tour of the grounds which were just incredible. The lodge is contemporary, open, and designed to make the most of the gorgeous views. We then headed back for dinner—

which turned out to be one of BELMOND KWAHI the best meals on our trip.” RIVER LODGE Next day, after a breakfast On the flight to Maun, that of local honey and fruit, pre-safari anticipation was farm fresh eggs, breads, and mounting. “We couldn’t wait yogurts, they joined their to head out,” says M. The guide in a safari-type vehicle airport was a bit of a scene, to explore the floral/fauna. but Belmond swooped in to Margaret’s ovservations: “The smooth the way: “Talk about roads were easy to maneuver chaos . . . coming in from the as we stopped along the way tarmac into a small lobby to learn about the pollinators where people are coming and bird species. We then and going from the bush. visited the Garden Lodge—a But amidst all the craziness, melting pot of biodiversity, there was [the aptly named] culture, and natural beauty. Harmony from Belmond to 800 plant species have sort it all out! We were waiting been discovered there! The on other people for the flight passionate guides were all so to Khwai River Lodge, so we well versed in the specifics of headed to the bar to grab a plant life.” M&M found that beer. It was like going back even if you’re partial to fauna, flora can be equally intriguing. in time . . . tables with pre- or post-safari groups . . . the air Briefly back in Cape Town, was buzzing with excitement.” they stayed at the famed At the Lodge, the staff Belmond Mount Nelson greeted them with song. Hotel, or “Nellie,” where they “Immediately, you felt at home were greeted warmly by staff and welcome. Everything and enjoyed dinner at one of is open air. We had a hippo the city’s finest restaurants, parked outside the entryway Aubergine—“It was a lovely to our room—apparently evening; the sommelier was kicked out of the pod for some great, the food delicious; a reason. But there, wildlife fun time had by all.” Nice to has the right of way. The have a taste of city life before porter briefed us on safety heading into the wilds of and encouraged us to keep Botswana. everything on lock down because . . . well, monkeys.” They will come in uninvited and wreak havoc. Monkey madness notwithstanding, the setting is peaceful, lovely, and Ralph Lauren-like. They embarked on the first of many game drives with the charming, engaging Mr. T. They followed a large pride of lions and were rewarded by discovering nine lionesses with three frisky cubs at play. They also learned a lot about the process of tracking by looking at the scat and tracks of lion, hippo, and elephant. Fun fact from Margaret: “The scat of scavengers like the

hyena are like lumps of chalk due to the fact that they get so much calcium from eating bones! And the honey badgers eat the dung because they need calcium!” Honey badger don’t care. All part of a wellfunctioning ecosystem. At day’s end, they returned to the lodge and unwound in the outside lounge that overlooks the river. They enjoyed some “croctails” (a term we coined) as they watched hippos, crocs, zebras, and elephants come and go. “UNREAL!” enthuses Margaret. Other field notes: “We found a trio of hyenas with babies—so fun. Then along came a young male lion meandering through the grass. Soon, the elephants were after us for getting too close to the babies. In the afternoon we came across one of the older leopards, female—amazing how small they are compared to lions. Sadly, we learned that she has since died. We ended the night with a celebratory dinner with entertainment— with the added treat of watching a hippo stroll alongside the pool and pause for a drink of pool water. Not sure how one would have gotten him out if he’d decided to take a swim!” BELMOND EAGLE ISLAND LODGE

After a short flight to Eagle Island, M&M enjoyed a ride in a flat bottom boat (mokoros). The water was low due to short rains in Angola, but what a sight nonetheless. They then set off for a late afternoon game drive with a delightful couple from Zimbabwe. They were on the lookout for lions, a young pride with three or four males and one female. “It’s funny

how you see them on the termite mounds—I guess looking for their next kill. Also, so funny to hear the baboons and monkeys warning others of the lions in their territory—you can’t imagine

“That’s the thing about Africa. You have to gear down; you’re at the other end of the world.” —Margaret Kemp

the yelling and screaming!” recalls Margaret. Afterwards, they kicked back with gin and tonics at the Eagle Bar as the sun set. Their next adventure took their safari to new heights.

They got a bird’s eye view on a helicopter (manned by a dashing pilot): “Fun day in the helicopter! WOW! Saw huge pods of hippo and crocodiles enjoying a meal of gazelle. Of course, the ride itself was wonderful, and the handsome, young pilot was easy on the eyes. A must for anyone,” says Margaret. “Again, an evening game drive and finally some sundowners! We weren’t able to enjoy sundowners other nights because of the close proximity of lions!” Lions do tend to put a damper on cocktail hour should they venture too near.

SAVUTE SAFARI LODGE

“The terrain here was totally different. That’s the amazing thing about

Botswana—it’s really three distinct ecosystems, and it’s amazing to experience them all. The safari tents were fantastic—light colored décor unlike other places, beautiful hardwood floors, screens in the canvas so the tent stays cool. High ceilings, roomy, and open. “It was fascinating to watch different animals come to the water hole over a late lunch. When you looked out at the horizon, you felt like you were on the moon—very barren. It’s incredible how the animals survive and how they take turns in and around the water—somewhat of a hierarchy as to who has the privileges to get into the water first.” After dinner they returned to the outdoor viewing area and observed elephants and

buffalo jockey for position near water as baby elephants frolicked about.

HEADED HOME

“VIP expedited check in is INCREDIBLE!! In Johannesburg, we were met plane side, driven to the international terminal, escorted through check-in and customs/immigration, and taken to the lounge,” says Margaret. “Our clients will love it.” “Overall, a phenomenal experience in Africa thanks to Belmond!” exclaims Margaret.

21 T H E O F F I C I A L M AG A Z I N E O F P O E T R AV E L

SKETCHBOOK

“Triple Creek Lodge was fantastic. The food was excellent. The people very nice. They provide golf carts to go around the property. The shower was big enough for an army plus it had a steam feature. Lots of elk and deer on the property. Definite recommendation for anybody that is thinking about going. We had a wonderful guide on our Bitterroot float trip. Thanks for arranging this, and I look forward to our next trip planning.” CAROLYN WITHERSP O ON MONTANA

 The Roaches in Rome.

 The Reeds celebrating their 37th wedding anniversary in Israel.

 B ob & Beth Barnes in England and Scotland.  The Crockers in Capri.

 Mary & Yiorgos Andritsakis with Carolyn & Rog Rogers in Greece and Crete.

23 T H E O F F I C I A L M AG A Z I N E O F P O E T R AV E L

 Linda Cope & her granddaughter Karli Boatright in Austria with Globus Tours.

“Wanted to take a minute to thank you for organizing our wonderful trip to Croatia. It was flawless and fabulous! We very much appreciate it. The accommodations were all lovely (particularly the Adriana hotel in Hvar); the drivers and their Mercedes were a luxury; and the guides were all fantastic. The trip went without a hitch (except for the fact that it had to end). Thanks so much. As soon as we’ve figured out where we want to go next, we’ll be in touch!

 Steve & Brandi Joplin in Peru.

ELLEN KAT Z & DAVE GILES CROATIA

 The Alegria family in Prague.

 Debbie Bass & Laura Mehaffy in Tuscany.

 The Almans in Prague.

 John & Carolyn Witherspoon on a guided Bitterrroot River float in Montana.

Hello, Stranger We’re super fans of the beautiful new quarterly publication Stranger’s Guide and urge you to check it out tout de suite. The magazine takes a fresh, exciting approach to travel writing, offering idiosyncratic perspectives on destinations from top international writers and photographers. Each issue explores a single location through the eyes of both native and foreign correspondents with the goal of creating portraits, not caricatures, of different countries and cultures.

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