PoeGo THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF
DOG DAYS O F S U M M E R
IGNITE WINTRY
WANDERLUST
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Agents go global Sri Lanka bounces back P. 11
SUMME R 20 19
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Dear Traveler
VIVE LA
SUMMER!
Please fasten your seatbelts in preparation for a ton of travel intel. We have oh-somuch to report—all of it sure to inspire and delight. First, at the risk of sounding selfcongratulatory, we’re pleased to be named best travel agency by the Arkansas Times and Soiree for the umpteenth year in a row. Thank you! We’d also like to congratulate Ellison, already one of Travel + Leisure’s A-List travel advisors, on being named on Condé Nast Traveler’s annual list of Top Travel Specialists. ‘Tis the season of exciting news because we’ve also recently been named a Four Seasons Preferred Partner! What does this distinction mean? Perks upon perks for you—exclusive benefits, more valuable amenities, VIP status, first priority for best rooms, priority wait-list clearance, and upgrades. (And, c’mon, who doesn’t love Four Seasons?) This year’s trend among Poe Travelers seems to be the farther afield the better. Thus far, we’ve already planned trips to Turkey, Egypt, Slovenia, the Baltics, Switzerland, New Zealand, Sri Lanka, and Corsica. We’re looking forward to even greater adventures in 2020, and there really is something for everyone. For music lovers . . . the 18th International Chopin Piano Competition in Warsaw (October). Like a comet, it only appears every five years so you’ll want to seize this opportunity. For foodies . . . There continues to be a huge appetite for culinary tourism so we
ask Poe staffers to share their restaurant recommendations from their most recent travels. We also get curious about a company called Eatwith that offers culinary experiences with locals in over 130 countries worldwide—from chic dinner parties in elegant Paris homes, to Italian feasts with Roman families, to gourmet cooking classes in Tokyo. How delicious! For gardeners . . . Master Gardener Janet Carson leads a cruise on the Douro River in Spain. For railway enthusiasts (and isn’t that everyone?) . . . Margaret says “all aboard” Belmond’s Grand Hibernia. As for your 2019 holiday travel plans, yes, you probably should have already made them. BUT for those late to the party, we have ideas—lots of them. Think off-thebeaten-path destinations like Vietnam and Cambodia with Lindblad. We also offer an unofficial office poll of “What NOT to Take” on your travels. The answers might surprise you. Finally, please note upcoming gettogethers with some of our favorite travel partners. We love these hometown visits! They always leave us eager to get going. We’re welcoming Regent Seven Seas Cruises in September and Belmond in October. Details to follow. So, please, go away!
Your friendly travel agents,
Margaret & Ellison
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Contents 6
cruise news
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What NOT to Pack
10 experiences
Solo, So Lovely Whether you opt for an African safari,
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a China tour, or travel to Italy, solo travel is a rewarding way to experience the world.
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lodging we love
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A Moveable Feast
25 sketchbook
School’s out! Teachers, perhaps even more than their students, cannot wait for summer. Here Margaret’s sister, Colleen Summers, has a little green screen fun with her teacher friends! Heaven knows they deserve it.
C AVTAT, C R OATI A
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CRUISE NEWS
WORDLWIDE
Chairwoman’s Cruise (hosted by Ponant’s Edie Rodriguez) An Exploration in Nature in Costa Rica & Panama, San Jose-Colon, JANUARY 6–16, 2020
An Immersion into Japanese Culture Osaka–Maizuru MAY 30–JUNE 7, 2020
World Affairs Cruise in the Baltic Stockholm–Copenhagen AUGUST 5–13, 2020
Celebrating Beethoven’s 250th Birthday Stockholm–Honfleur, SEPTEMBER 8–17, 2020
Boston Pops Montreal-Quebec with Keith Lockhart OCTOBER 2020
Epicurean Delights of Southern Italy & Sicily Rome–Valletta OCTOBER 18-25, 2020 HAWAI’I
For those who like a little learning whilst cruising, Ponant offers the Quintessential Collection (themed sailings with terrific speakers and itineraries).
How much do we love UnCruise Adventures? Let us count the waves . . . This July and August, our favorite small-ship adventure line kicked off its first-ever summer sailing season in the Hawaiian Islands, adding to their other Hawaii cruises, which run between November and April. You can sign up for one of six weeklong summer itineraries, cruising roundtrip from the island of Molokai with stops in Lanai, the Big Island, and Maui. Cruises embark on the 36-guest, upscale-yet-laid-back Safari Explorer yacht, making it the most intimate voyage option in the region. The four-island itineraries include less commonly visited ports and come chockful of active adventures like hiking to a waterfall in the Halawa Valley or snorkeling alongside giant sea turtles off of west Maui. A complementary cultural heritage component includes hosted
A complementary cultural heritage component includes hosted visits inside a local family’s home and a traditional pa‘ina feast, accompanied by traditional music and dance.
visits inside a local family’s home and a traditional pa‘ina feast, accompanied by traditional music and dance. Along the journey, you’ll be treated to sunsoaked, palm-fringed beaches; sparkling blue waters teeming with surfers, marine life (like giant manta rays and humpback whales), and coral reefs; and dramatic rain forest–blanketed landscapes, pocked by volcanic peaks and cascading waterfalls. Plus, there’s Save $700 per couple plenty of ($350/person) on PolynesianHawaiian Seascapes flavored departures, culture Nov 9, 2019–Jan 25, 2020. (including Call us for details! locally sourced meals!).
CREDIT PHOTO PONANT
You’ve never lived Aloha quite like this.
Ponant Maintenant Ponant has a certain je ne sais quoi? Is it the unique itineraries, elegant ships, and fabulous cuisine? That’s part of it. But there are other reasons that Ponant, the only French cruise line, is the world leader in luxury yacht expeditions. It’s long been a secret among Americans in-the-know, but Europeans have been on board since the beginning (in the 1980s). Ponant cruises all over the world, but let us turn our attention to the Seychelles—the “it girl” of island chains. Ponant has the best itineraries there—AND if you book with us by September 30th, there’s an additional savings of $750 per couple! On the list of the world’s most idyllic destinations, the Seychelles are about as close as you can to the top. Located in the Indian Ocean off the coast of East Africa, the cluster of 115 islands is a mix of populated ports and never-inhabited coralline islets. Travelers visit the Seychelles for the culture of its capital city of Victoria and the pristine beaches only reachable by yacht. There are many departure dates to choose from and a mix of itineraries. Call us for details on the following: • Madagascar, Réunion & Mauritius • The Essential Seychelles • The Seychelles & Aldabra Atoll
Highlights Include: •O utings and shore visits in Zodiac® inflatables with a team of experienced naturalist guides. •U NESCO World Heritage Site: the area of Pitons, cirques, and remparts of Reunion Island. •A variety of romantic landscapes: atolls, coral reefs, lagoons, mangrove, whitesand beaches, and granite islands. • I n Madagascar, a rich and preserved endemic flora and fauna—and lemurs! •T he Scattered Islands, a geological sanctuary with nature reserve status since 1975. •D iving with an experienced instructor and snorkeling with your expedition team. •U NESCO World Heritage Site: the Vallée de Mai nature reserve in Praslin. •T he Aride nature reserve, a treasure with some 180 acres of colorful vegetation and more than one million birds. •A nse Source d’Argent, the most famous beach of La Digue, surrounded by large blocks of granite and edged with coconut palms. •T ortoise watching on Saint Joseph and Curieuse.
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AGENT REPORTS
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T H E O F F I C I A L M AG A Z I N E O F P O E T R AV E L
What NOT to Pack It’s often difficult to discern want from need. That’s why we asked our Poe Travel team to name the one item they don’t take when traveling. We hope the following will help lighten your load.
JESSICA MAXWELL
Too many cameras! I used to bring three or four on every trip, but I learned my lesson after lugging my 2.5lb Yashica Mat camera on the Inca Trail. STACEY SVENDSEN
Do not take shampoo/body wash on safari. It takes up room in your already small bag, and the camps provide it for you. ANN MCFERRAN
Don’t take western colonialist and ethnocentric ideals anywhere. Ha ha, just kidding, but really don’t do that. Um, don’t bring high heels to Peru unless you’re in Lima. Most of the streets are cobblestone at best, no Bueno! JESSICA MAXWELL
Don’t pack anything made out of PLASTIC when going to East Africa. ELLISON POE
For travel to Tasmania, Australia, there’s no need to pack an abundance of dressy clothing. Tasmania is a nature lovers paradise and has some of the cleanest air in the world.”
Share your ideas with us using #poetravel
PAULA LEE
Workout clothes to a big city. No matter how much I plan to use the hotel gym, after spending the entire day walking the city I never make it there. ANGELA SIMON
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Take the pants you have packed and cut the amount in half. T,
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The Richest Country in the World
A Sante Fe Getaway
To truly enjoy Peru, I found that you must be a go-withthe-flow, move- and-shaker type. While that’s how I thought I would describe myself, you never really know until you’re thrust completely out of your comfort zone, armed with one backpack for 10 days and slightly better than average Spanish. On my ten-day venture, I took practically every mode of transportation available and walked until I couldn’t walk anymore. I traversed rugged landscapes and boarded planes, trains, AND automobiles. There were a couple of missteps along the way as it’s never an easy journey to step completely out of your comfort zone, but once I did, I was forever changed. Yet it wasn’t until I returned home and finally took a breath that I first saw this tagline in a magazine, “Peru, the richest country in the world.” Now, looking back on my journey, no phrase could better describe this treasure of South America. While the USD will get you far in Soles, the richness of Peru is not observed by a monetary crass, but through the food, the language, its history, and culture. It blurs the boundary between the ancient and modern worlds, and the mysticism of the Incas is still
Ahhhh, Sante Fe. One of our favorite long-weekend getaways. The restorative desert air, the vibrant art scene, the mole . . . On a quick trip to Sante Fe, Margaret and Mildred hit all of their favorite spots: Pasquales (for the green chili cornbread), Geronimo (consistently stellar), and Sazon (for Chef Olea’s sublime signature soup, sopa de amor, and special daily mole). They also visited the new building at Ghost Ranch and Pecos National Historical Park, which, says Margaret, “makes you feel like you’re in Peru.” Santa Fe is a fun destination for families, girls’ weekends, couples’ trips, and any variation therein.
the hang of it, and I spent many an afternoon (and sole) at the markets, purchasing souvenirs and fresh produce before sampling street food and anticuchos. Peru is foodie heaven, especially if you are adventurous! Ceviche is the number one must try food in Peru, so do not pass by the Cevicherias that serve fresh fish of the day every day. Among the plethora of food carts that line the streets, I also noticed men with burlap bags filled with cuy, or roasted guinea pig. I opted out of trying the street cuy, (guess I’m not that adventurous)
. . . the richness of Peru is not observed by a monetary crass, but through the food, the language, its history, and culture.
Expensive accessories. This is hard for me, because I love to accessorize, but traveling with valuables makes you a prime target for pickpockets, and you’ll run the risk of losing or leaving something precious behind.
O
MARGARET & MILDRED
OU
T!
palpable everywhere from the streets of Lima to the lush low country of The Sacred Valley. Machu Picchu remains the long-standing draw of the old world, but you will find the spirit of Peru no more alive than in the Runakuna or the indigenous Quechua speaking population. In fact, Machu Picchu was at first the focus of my trip, but in no way captivated me as the Peruvian people did. Quechua women, outfitted in their vibrant traditional dress handmade from alpaca wool, beckon you to their spreads of various goods, switching effortlessly from their native Quechua to Spanish. The open-air markets of Cusco draw tourists and locals alike and haggling over a price is standard procedure. Eventually I got
but eventually, on the recommendation of my guide, ate at the local favorite, Cusco’s own Pachapapa where I had a feast of roasted cuy and choclo. Of course, no meal in Peru is complete without the frothy finish of a pisco sour which I enjoyed somewhat responsibly. In truth, despite the obvious appeals of Peru, my most valuable experiences occurred when I was enjoying a meal with the locals or walking through a market. I left the country and returned to my own with invaluable knowledge and experiences that will last for the rest of my life, and it was only when I stepped completely out of my comfort zone was I able to acquire all of the riches that Peru has to offer.
Call us to plan your Santa Fe escapade!
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EXPERIENCES
Spend the Holidays in Sri Lanka Naturally gorgeous, culturally captivating, and steeped in mysticism, Sri Lanka makes for a wonderful introduction to the Indian subcontinent. Discover temples carved from cliffs in Dambulla and fortresses built on boulders in Sigiriya. Cycle through peaceful scenes of village life and tour working tea plantations in the hill country around Bandarawela. Visit the country’s most significant religious relic, the Temple of the Tooth, in Kandy. Safari through Udawalawe National Park in search of leopards and monkeys and see baby elephants up close at a rescue center. Too much activity you say? Chill out by the beach in Mirissa (or any number of beautiful beaches that circle the country). Sri Lanka is everything you could want in a family getaway.
BEL MON D L AS C ASI TAS , PERU
Best Countries for Solo Travelers
Wild Coast Tented Lodge sits on a rugged beach on the edge of Yala National Park, famed for its biodiversity, especially leopards— imagine the delight on your tween’s face when she spots a leopard in the wild! The Lodge’s Junior Ranger Program introduces children to the magic of the wilderness (and the importance of conservation) through a series of guided activities. Kids gain a deeper understanding of the game drives they’ll take and learn about tracking in hands-on field sessions. Families may spread out, kids and adults with their own space, in a custom Cocoon suite with an adjacent twin-bedded Urchin tent (hmmm . . .). Wild Coast Tented Lodge takes into account the varied needs of families.
At Cape Weligama, a clifftop resort with views across the south coast’s palm-fringed shores, an active summer holiday awaits the adventurous family. Guided mountain bike tours, surfing lessons, or paddleboarding on the picturesque bay of Weligama make for memorable family outings. Foodie families are in for a treat with curated culinary experiences for kids as well as their grown-ups.
Norway
Solo, So Lovely The Rewards of Going It Alone
Switzerland
WHERE TO STAY
Denmark Iceland
Wild Coast Tented Lodge
New Zealand Costa Rica
When to Go Solo Traveling in the high season is better than not
traveling at all but not as ideal as traveling when the crowds have dispersed. Traveling in the low season comes with its own challenges, like poor weather— too hot or too cold—BUT you won’t be fighting the masses. We suggest going during the shoulder season, between high and low seasons. It’s really the sweet spot for solo and group travelers alike. The shoulder season makes almost everything easier. There will be some museums or sights that are closed until high season. You’ll miss the occasional classic highlight but get so much more in return. P.S. Single supplement deals now abound, so there’s no time like the present to go solo.
Spain Austria Uruguay Finland Panama Ireland Chile Albania Vietnam Germany Japan Source: Travel + Leisure, 3/15/19
Whether you opt for an African safari, a China tour, or travel to Italy, solo travel is a rewarding way to experience the world.
PHOTOGRAPHER: MATT CROSSICK
The world has never been more accommodating to solo travelers, which in part accounts for the recent popularity of this travel trend. Whether you opt for an African safari, a China tour, or travel to Italy, solo travel is a rewarding way to experience the world. That’s because it gives you the time and space to reflect, get inspired, expand your horizons, and take risks in a far-flung environment. It also builds confidence and gives you a sense of empowerment. On solo journeys, “me time” takes on a whole new meaning. Let us plan yours.
Netherlands
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LODGING WE
LOVE NEW YORK
This Bold NYC Hotel Hits the Mark Experience classic luxury with a modern twist at The Mark
TH E LO B B Y A T T H E M AR K
Only in New York can one find a hotel that offers a pedicab direct to Bergdorf Goodman and a 70-foot sailboat for charter. If you’re looking for a truly immersive, luxe New York experience, look no further than The Mark. Andrew Jeffries, the new Director of Sales & Marketing, gives us the scoop.
2009. It combines old-world comfort and elegance with avant-garde design and impeccable service. It’s incredibly chic, but still very warm and inviting. I also love the neighborhood. The Mark is surrounded by the most incredible museums, shops, and restaurants in New York City, not to mention the splendor of Central Park. It is only about 10 blocks from my apartment too, so I can walk to work every day, which is an added bonus!
Poe Travel: What do you enjoy about working at The Mark? Andrew Jeffries: So far, I enjoy everything about the job! I have been at The Mark since the beginning of March and the whole experience has been fabulous. The hotel is perfectly suited to my personality and taste. I have always loved classic, luxury hotels with a modern twist and The Mark epitomizes this design. The hotel is housed in a 1927 landmark building on the Upper East Side (at the corner of Madison Avenue and 77th Street), but was reimagined by legendary designer Jacques Grange in
What do you think makes a good hotel? AJ: While a good location, great design, and a high thread count are all very important, I think it is the employees that take a hotel from good to great. We have an amazing team at The Mark that I am proud to be a part of. Everyone is incredibly passionate about what they do and you can feel it the moment you walk in through the front doors. The service our team provides is honest and authentic, with zero pretense. For me, that makes all the difference in the world.
What’s one thing that makes The Mark unique? AJ: It’s hard to name just one! I don’t know of any other hotels that have a Jean-Georges hotdog stand or pedi-cabs that take guests to Berdorf-Goodman (which will open for our guests in the middle of the night if they want). We also have our own sailboat that Jean-Georges caters. It’s a pretty unique way to take in New York City. Of course, I’d be remiss not to mention our Penthouse! It’s the largest suite in the US, with 10,000 square feet of elegant living space and a 2,500 square foot terrace with sweeping views of Central Park and the skyline of New York City. Truly one of a kind. When you travel, what’s one of your carry-on musts? AJ: My phone charger. I’m hopelessly addicted to my iPhone and iPad. I’m basically a walking Apple advertisement when I travel and I need everything to be charged! The Mark makes a portable charger that I have been getting a lot of mileage out of lately.
While a good location, great design, and a high thread count are all very important, I think it is the employees that take a hotel from good to great.
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AGENT REPORTS
RESPLENDENT CEYLON BETH PORTER
Alberta Is Your New Summer Destination Situated in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, Alberta is host to over 600 lakes, glacier parks, and breathtaking mountain ranges. For those in search of a quintessential summer experience (minus sweltering heat), exploring and relaxing in the great outdoors, surrounded by waterfalls, cavernous mountain ranges, look no further than this under-the-radar mountain destination. Here, Beth Porter offers a peek into her recent getaway to Canada. Poe Travel: Because it’s of the utmost importance, we’ll just cut to the chase and ask, ‘what was your best meal?’ Beth Porter: In Lake Louise, The Fondue Chinoise at Fondue Stübli located in the Post Hotel & Spa. They have an amazing wine selection, too. PT: Favorite moment? BP: In Lake Louise, hiking to Lake Agnes Tea House when snow began to fall and hiking around Maligne Canyon in Jasper National Park. We loved Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park. Oh! And the wildlife viewing: grizzly bears, black bears, elk, and mountain goats. PT: Favorite hotel? BP: We loved Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. PT: Why is Canada a satisfying summer destination? BP: The scenery is breathtaking, the people are friendly, and the food is great! PT: This is your kind of trip if you like . . . BP: . . . being outdoors and being active.
WHERE TO STAY Tucked within a UNESCO World Heritage site, Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge offers a stunning Rocky Mountain stay. The vibe is rustic/elegant, and you can discover your own little scenic village of heritage cabins with wildlife right outside the door. Every green and tee on the spectacular golf course aligns with a mountain peak—just one reason the course ranks as Canada’s best. Go hiking, fishing, horseback riding— even explore the Columbia Icefields; winter months bring every snowy pleasure imaginable. Tip: Jasper National Park is heaven for stargazers. The Royal Astronomical Society of Canada officially designated it a Dark Sky Preserve— one of the largest in the world.
Sri Lanka, formerly Ceylon, is the ultimate tropical destination, one rich in culture and history—complete with magnificent beaches, mountainous regions scattered with tea plantations, countless Buddhist sites, fine colonial remains, accessible wildlife, living craft traditions, and legendary hospitality. Conceived by the Fernando family, Sri Lankan tea producers and founders of Dilmah Ceylon Tea, Resplendent Ceylon’s collection of small, luxury resorts offers a remarkable circuit across Sri Lanka, with a range of authentic experiences. They also contribute towards local communities and the environment through the MJF Foundation and Dilmah Conservation. These resorts are the sole Sri Lankan members of Relais & Chateaux and offer a unique way to see this profoundly beautiful country. VIEW OUR COLLECTION ONLINE
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SURREY, UNITED KINGDOM
Book with us and you’ll enjoy perks upon perks like:
Stay at This Storied English Estate
· Full English Breakfast (daily) · A Classic Martini for each guest · Beaverbrook Guest Book with history of the estate · A guided history tour of the Mansion
Once the home of Lord Beaverbrook, a legendary 20th-century newspaper tycoon, this monumental property has hosted a “who’s who” of society, including Winston Churchill, Elizabeth Taylor, Rudyard Kipling, Charlie Chaplin, and the Kennedys. There is even a cinema in the mansion, where Churchill and Beaverbrook watched war clips during World War II. Their Victorian mansion features 18 rooms with sweeping views of the Surrey Hills. There are an additional 17 rooms in the Garden House and Coach House. Each room is individually designed, and many are named after the glitterati who slept there. Guests can stay in Churchill’s room and even take a soak in the tub he enjoyed. Beaverbrook is a perfect blend of history and contemporary British style. This is NOT a stuffy, old hotel, and the team is vibrant, gracious, and fun!
Step into a bygone era, with stylish modern touches
There are many activities on the estate from fly fishing and clay pigeon shooting to cooking classes and nature walks. There’s also a diverse range of dining options from casual to fine. The gardens are stunning and exclusive (the property is not open to the public without reservation). Beaverbrook is a clever base for capturing the essence of the English countryside—and just 30-45 minutes from Heathrow and Gatwick. Windsor Castle and Hampton Court Palace are easily accessible as are the award-winning gardens of RHS Wisley. The most highly regarded stately homes and gardens of Surrey such as Polesden Lacey are also nearby. You can also easily visit: Churchill’s home at Chartwell; Hever Castle; Leeds Castle; and Sissinghurst Castle & Gardens.
Other points of interest: • Condé Nast Traveler Hot List. • Award-winning spa with 3 swimming pools. • The lovely Orangery is a dream for children, with table tennis, games, & books. • Even though this is a Victorian mansion, it features an elevator and gorgeously updated bathrooms, most with separate beautiful baths and walk-in showers.
TIP | Don’t miss the afternoon tea on the terrace or sofafilled lounge. Freshly made sandwiches, Sacher torte and home-baked scones are available from Thursday to Friday (3pm-5.30pm) and at weekends (3.30pm-5.30pm).
BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS & HAWAI’I
Everything’s Coming up Rosewood We have a couple of Rosewood announcements we’d like to share with you—two really terrific openings to be specific . . . and Pacific.
Rosewood Little Dix Bay will soon return as the jewel within the Caribbean following a multi-million-dollar renovation of the iconic resort. Located within 500 acres of untamed natural gardens, Rosewood Little Dix Bay is surrounded by clear blue seas, rugged hills, beautiful isolated beaches, and spectacular geological formations. Long regarded as one of the world’s greatest getaways, this exclusive resort, originally developed by conservationist Laurance Rockefeller, offers a level of refinement and seclusion unrivaled in the Caribbean. Staying true to the original vision of the resort’s founder, Rosewood Little Dix Bay will retain a limited number of buildings designed to follow the lines of the landscape, and where possible infuse the local culture and indigenous materials into aspects of the resort design. Currently scheduled to re-open late 2019.
Inhabited nearly 1,000 years ago, the site was once home to migrating settlers from Polynesia.
Located on the Kona Coast of the Big Island of Hawai‘i, the iconic Kona Village Resort will once again open its doors and welcome back ‘ohana (family) to the historic and culturally rich destination in 2022. Spanning 81 acres of stunning geologic landscape, Kona Village, A Rosewood Resort will draw inspiration from the history of the site, local culture, and natural elements. Conceptualized and developed by intrepid explorer Johnno Jackson in the early 1960s, the original Kona Village Resort was best known for its free-standing, palm thatch roof hales and tranquil location. However, the history of the Kona Coast dates back long before it became a one-of-a-kind vacation destination. Inhabited nearly 1,000 years ago, the site was once home to migrating settlers from Polynesia. Located less than 10 miles north of the Kona International Airport, Kona Village will debut 150 unique, standalone guest hales with locally-inspired décor and a sense of seclusion. An array of distinct dining venues, including the original resort’s beloved Shipwreck Bar and Talk Story Bar, will offer elevated yet relaxed experiences. The resort will also offer an array of new amenities including Sense, A Rosewood Spa, a state-of-the-art fitness facility, as well as multiple pools. Devoted to preserving the heritage of the destination, the resort will feature a cultural center that will grant both locals and visitors access to extensive Hawaiian lineage, providing a link between the resort and its surroundings.
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PORTUGAL
DO CALL IT A COMEBACK!
A Hotel in Picturesque Portugal That Lives up to Its Lofty Name The name alone sets the bar high, but we’re pleased to report that Sublime Comporta earns its appellation and then some, thanks to its minimalist design (glittering glass, whitewashed wood, modern fittings), sleepy rural-coastal setting, and delicious Portuguese food. This handsome hotel has a 17-acres of woodland (imagine stands of umbrella pines and cork trees)and wildflowers to explore: don’t miss the pretty pool, which has a fire pit at the bottom of it for socializing on sultry summer nights. Sublime Comporta’s There’s also a small pool by the restaurant for little ones so your chill vibe won’t be interrupted by shrieks of delight (unless, of course, they are your own shrieks so wonderful is this place). The Cabanas are set apart from the lobby and main building and offer plenty of privacy. Comporta-inspired architecture and minimalist Scandinavian styling adds up to a ridiculously romantic effect; referencing their forest roots, the cabanas come with cork walls, exposed wooden beams, pine stools, and straw lampshades. It’s so quiet all you can hear is birdsong. Each cabana also has an indoor/ outdoor fireplace and a cozy outside seating area, equipped with wooden tables, chairs, and a stash of handy blankets. If you’d prefer to stay C A P J U L U CA
in the main building, the Owner’s Suite is as good as it gets, thanks in part to two terraces, one of which has a hot tub. At the spa, enjoy a peaceful heated pool, sauna, steam bath, and a team of heavenly therapists. Have a massage in the pineshaded grounds, unwind in the sleeping pods, or try an herbal tea featuring leaves plucked from the garden. At the restaurant, you’ll get an introduction to the region’s natural bounty—both surf and turf as we Americans say—whose open-plan dining room puts the natural surroundings center stage, with help from floor-to-ceiling windows. Nibble local razor clams, grilled black pork, or the succulent catch of the day (and team whatever you opt for with a bottle of crisp, chilled local white wine). Herdade da Comporta is home to some excellent wineries, and should you be able to tear yourself away from the property, you can visit them. The area is also home to Portugal’s best beach. The staff will even pack you a picnic, drop you off at a deserted patch of white sand and arrange a time to come and fetch you. You can also go horseback riding in the surrounding rice fields and beaches. In a word—sublime.
Belmond Cap Juluca Gets a Marvelous Makeover, and Now There’s More—and Moorish—to Love Anguilla was one of the first islands to bounce back after the devastating hurricanes of 2017—and bounced back it has. The small, skinny, 16-mile-long island is packed with resorts, but this one is tops. The Morocco-meetsMykonos Belmond Cap Juluca resort sits on a whitesand beach on a Caribbean island known as much for its welcoming people as its haute resorts. Large enough to keep a couple—or a couple of kids—busy for days, but small enough to feel like home, the whitewashed island enclave has just reopened after a $121 million renovation by new owner Belmond, emphasizing chic, natural materials and local Anguillan heritage. The hotel remains unrivaled in the looks department—white domes and archways frame views of vanilla sands and blue waters, backdropped by glossy gardens of palms and bougainvillea—and boasts some of the friendliest customer service on the island. It’s pure magic.
A Moveable Feast One of the greatest joys of traveling is, of course, sampling different cuisines. Here we ask the Poe Travel team to name their most memorable meals of late. La Casa del Ceviche in Lima, Peru. JESSICA MAXWELL
Arsaga’s at Church and Center in Fayetteville, AR. The “OMG Ashley! Toast” with almond butter, caramelized bananas, and flake salt on crusty bread is fantastic!” ANGELA SIMON
I have two. The Rendezvous in Memphis—I’m still dreaming about those dry rub ribs! And Restaurant Panorama in Dubrovnik. Delicious food (and drinks!) with an unforgettable view of Dubrovnik and the Elaphiti Islands. STACEY SVENDSEN
The Beauty Shop in Memphis, TN. It’s a wonderfully transformed old beauty shop where Priscilla Presley got her hair done back in the day. The grilled street corn alone is worth the trip. I also had the Fried Green Tomato BLT. Yummy! CASSIE CRANE
Ma Maison in Akaroa, New Zealand. Fantastic fresh mussels! ELLISON POE
Sazon in Santa Fe is out of this world. MARGARET KEMP
Al Moro in Rome. ANN MCFERRAN
What we love: · Renowned for world-class dining · Exceptional outdoor activities · Every room is beachfront · Considered to have the best beach in the Caribbean · All accommodations offer personalized 24 hour butler service
The Lounge by Frogmore Creek in Tasmania. PAULA LEE
La Taverna in Aviemore, Scotland. KRISTIN TEWHILL POE RECCOMMENDS
Stacey Svendsen in Croatia
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ELLISON POE
Ellison Poe Goes Continent Hopping When we say, “Poe Knows the World, the world knows Poe,” we mean it. Take Ellison, who in 2019 alone has already visited four different continents! From a birthday bash in Ireland and a whirlwind meeting in Egypt, to a oncein-a-lifetime trip to New Zealand, she’s been on the go. If any of these exciting journeys pique your interest, give us a call and we’ll craft the perfect itinerary for you. Ellison’s travel motto: The farther out the better, and there’s no time like the present.
Ship Sticks (say that fast three times) Are you teed off trying to ship those cumbersome clubs? It’s vexing for any golfer. But allow us to introduce you to Ship Sticks, the easiest way to ship your golf clubs and luggage anywhere in the world. Not to be caddy, but here’s a sobering stat: U.S. Airlines collected over $2.5 billion in bagge fees in 2014 and mishandled 24 million bags. Instead of lugging your clubs through the airport and risking lost or damaged items, ship them with Ship Sticks. They even offer door-to-door service. You don’t want a good trip spoiled.
OREGON
Tu much? Far from it . . . this Oregon lodge is juuusssttt right. Pronounced “too-too-tin,” Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge is a little slice of heaven on the Rogue River, and owner Kyle Ringer provides the quintessential Northwest experience—laidback hospitality included. It’s low-key, lovely, and far from just about everything. Tu Tu’ Tun opened as a humble fishing lodge in the 1970s and has evolved into a world-class resort—while still retaining its chill vibe. Just a few miles from Siskiyou National Forest, it is blanketed by a lush, velvety lawn and bordered by evergreens and is the perfect antidote to these hectic modern times. The rooms all have private decks overlooking one of the state’s most scenic rivers; some have hot tubs, others have fireplaces, some have both; a couple even have outdoor soaking tubs with river views for the ultimate “at-onewith-nature” feeling. If you want a little more privacy, we recommend reserving one of the houses, which can accommodate a romantic retreat for two or a gathering of six. Osprey Bend is the biggest at 2,800-square-feet, and has a rustic, Arts and Craft appeal plus hot tub and grill. Let’s get this party started! (But please keep the noise to a minimum.) The restaurant—closed November to April, except breakfast for guests—serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The latter—open to non-
guests—is a five-course prix-fixe meal. Locally sourced dinners are served family-style in the dining room, where you dine communally, but you can also score a backpack lunch for a daylong hike. Guests are called to dinner promptly at 7:00 p.m. each evening by bell after enjoying hors d’oeuvres and wine around the fireplace. It’s easy to make new friends while enjoying local grass-fed prime rib with horseradish cream and the lodge’s famous popovers. Pass those popovers! Guides can be arranged for steelhead and chinook salmon fishing in spring or fall. And though there are plenty of opportunities for fishing, golfing, and hiking, you might opt for a trek to nearby Cape Sebastian with its stunning vista. Another popular excursion is a jet boat ride up the Rogue River along a former mail route to historic Agness and back. Of course, staying on the property, reclining in an Adirondack chair, beer in hand is also a solid option—as is having a massage in the open-air riverside cabana. It’s the perfect way to unwind and commune with the surroundings (summer only) though you risk being spied on by a cheeky river otter or osprey. Now that’s truly living la vida loca. *No children under age 10, May through October.
IRELAND In Ireland Ellison roamed the bucolic surrounds of an enthralling estate accompanied by majestic Irish wolfhounds (a profound experience) and luxuriated at Ashford Castle (former home of the Guinness family). They also traveled back in time at Ballyfin (the grandest Regency mansion in the country) where one can dress in period garb and have a costume dinner party. It’s “frockage heaven” and perfect for those with a flair for the dramatic. (Who doesn’t want to star in their own period piece?) Ellison also enjoyed a Guinness at Sean’s Bar—at 1,000 years old the oldest bar in the world. She rounded out the trip with a lovely day exploring Galway and a stay at the Westbury in Dublin (perfectly positioned between Trinity College and St. Stephen’s Green). EGYPT Ellison joined friends for a VIP adventure that included an early morning private outdoor champagne breakfast at the Pyramids followed by private visit to the Sphinx. “There’s nothing like being in the presence of the Pyramids and Sphinx without throngs of people around. It’s transcendent,” says Ellison. They also got to explore the huge, wonderful new museum, The Grand Egyptian Museum (“GEM”), scheduled to open in fall 2020 in Giza. It is home to the entirety of King Tut’s tomb’s contents—some 5,000 artifacts. They donned hard hats for a behind-the-scenes tour of the construction site and even visited the conservation laboratories which were fascinating. They then took a day trip to Luxor to check out Oberoi’s luxury Nile cruisers. Ellison learned that some tombs, like Nefertari, which once required special permission and a handsome $5,000 honorarium to enter, are now open to the public for about $60/ticket. It is one of the best-preserved tombs with vibrant colors on the paintings on the walls and almost spoils you for all the other ones—“It’s truly spectacular,” says Ellison.
NEW ZEALAND “New Zealand was mind-blowing—the natural beauty beyond words. And the food and wine! Indescribable,” says Ellison. “It was honestly one of the highlights of my life. We made a pilgrimage to the Marlborough region, home to the sauvignon blancs; we saw sheep being sheared; we tracked the elusive kiwi; took amazing hikes where the scenery was just on steroids; picnicked on a pink beach; took every form of transportation—from bat boat to helicopter to ATV; watched herds of red deer leap across the landscape. The two days it took to get back were the longest of my life but well worth it.” Ellison was also struck by the way that Māori culture, so rich and diverse, is integrated into (and integral to) contemporary New Zealand life. A huge thank you to Seasonz—our go-to for all things New Zealand—who made it all possible and to the fabulous, hospitable hotels and lodges that made the whole experience that much better: Marlborough Lodge on the grounds of the famous Sauvignon Blanc vineyards; the beautifully restored, historic Otahuna Lodge near Christchurch; Matakauri Lodge, an alpine lakeside retreat near Queenstown; The Farm at Cape Kidnappers, set atop 6,000 rolling acres of stunning pastureland with views of the Pacific; The, Lodge at Kauri Cliffs near Matauri Bay with views of Cape Brett and the Cavalli Islands; Huka Lodge, nestled along the banks of the Waikato River; and, the surprise of the trip— a hidden gem—Poronui Lodge in secluded Taharua Valley. On 16,000 acres of gorgeous wilderness, this historic fly fishing lodge is a sportsperson’s paradise. NEXT STOP In the fall Ellison will travel to Wales with a small group of family and friends to take a deep dive into Dylan Thomas country. They plan to stay on a sheep farm, meet some corgis in Pembrokshire (where the breed originated), visit scenic Snowdonia and The Mumbles, and end at Bodysgallen Hall. (Even the place names are pure poetry). Then it’s off to Montana, a sort of homecoming because Ellison’s mother and Poe Travel co-founder, Tina Bohlinger, is from there. Continuing west, she’ll head to Ashland, Oregon, to see a production of “Hairspray,” and then to Las Vegas for an annual travel trade show. From the quaint cobbled streets of Dublin to the garish Las Vegas strip, now that’s a trip.
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ITALY
STACEY SVENDSEN
Stacey Svendsen in Slovenia and Croatia (with a jog to Montenegro) SLOVENIA “You can’t spell ‘Slovenia’ without ‘love.’”—states the country’s new branding campaign, and Stacey Svendsen finds there’s truth in that. On a recent trip with Abercrombie & Kent, Stacey discovered a county rich in both natural and cultural treasures. Her journey began in iconic Ljubljana, a “cute little town” that charmed everyone in the group. You can go via funicular to a castle for panoramic views of the city and Alps. Next they visited scenic Lake Bled where they boarded a pletna (gondola) for a boat ride to the small, picturesque island at its center (the only island in the country). There they visited the Church of the Assumption—“Gorgeous,” effuses Stacey in her quiet, understated way. During her journey through Croatia, Stacey observed/learned the following: • The food is heavy, and they eat a lot of meat (including horse—eek). • They’re very proud of their wine. • It’s an ideal place to visit if you’re into outdoor stuff; it’s very green and lush. Rock climbers love it. • I t’s exceptionally clean and has kind of an Austrian vibe. • I t’s one of the only countries that paints its beehives and the only member of the EU to protect its native bee. (Now that’s a cause we can get bee-hind!) You can even stay in an apiary hotel if so inclined (or maybe that is your idea of a nightmare). •A s a society, they are eco-conscious and encourage biking and recycling. •C ollege is free until age 26, so much of the population is highly educated. •T he youth culture is very vibrant and cool. (They got to see a renowned young cellist perform.) •S lovenia is topographically diverse; you can ski one day and sunbathe at the beach the next.
MONTENEGRO Lord Byron described Montenegro as “the most beautiful meeting of land and sea on this planet”—and Stacey says she can see where he’s coming from. (Though things get a little crazy when the Italian cruise ships arrive notes Stacey.) This tiny European country checks a lot of boxes: Italian, Greek, and Balkan influences make for creative cuisine; the coast is dotted with lively beach bars if you’re into that sort of thing; it’s rich in history and culture; and active sorts like the hiking trails, kayaking routes, and water sports.
CROATIA Zagreb For the next leg of the journey, the group traveled the lively capital of Croatia, set amid world-class museums, galleries, and breathtaking scenery. “It’s a fantastic city for museums,” says Stacey. They took a walking tour of Gornji Grad (Upper Town) and Donji Grad (Lower Town) and visited a local’s home for lunch while the hostess’ son played piano. They stayed at the lovely Esplanade Zagreb hotel near the grand train station.
Zadar In addition to its Roman ruins, this tiny port town in Croatia has another mustsee (hear) sight—a sea organ! Designed by local architect Nikola Bašić, it is set within perforated stone stairs that descend into the water and has a system of pipes and whistles that sing when the waves push air through them. The effect is hypnotic and otherworldly. You can even swim from the steps off the promenade to bathe in the sea and sound. Split Croatia’s second largest city is both modern and traditional and a great place to see Dalmatian life as it’s really lived. Diocletian’s Palace (a Unesco World Heritage Site and one of the world’s most impressive Roman monuments) has dozens of bars, restaurants, and shops amid the atmospheric old walls where Split has been humming along for thousands of years. Stacey says that Mislav, who is from Split and very passionate about it, served as an excellent tour guide. One of Stacey’s favorite experiences was a guided tour by the curator of Mestrovic Gallery which houses a collection of works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s premier modern sculptor. The museum is in a grand mansion that was once the artist’s residence in the 1930s. The also enjoyed a Klapa music performance, a form of traditional Dalmatian a cappella singing.
Hvar Stacey et al. took a ferry to sunny Hvar, an idyllic island known for its sunny days (the most in Croatia) and medieval buildings from centuries of Venetian rule. They enjoyed a tour at Tomic Winery and admired fields of fragrant lavender. Dubrovnik Stacey says, “There’s quite the party Longtime Poe pal Vanja Jelić Stjepović scene in Hvar during the peak months, so of ADT (Adriatic Travel Collection) to avoid that go in April and September. showed Stacey the best of Dubrovnik. Then it’s a quiet, sleepy town.” The food “Dubrovnik was wonderful, and I really was lighter than in Slovenia. “If you like enjoyed exploring off the main path,: figs and truffles you’ll love Croatia. I says Stacey. “I got to meet with a woman love figs, so I was in heaven. And risotto. who was there in the ‘90s during the Lots of risotto.” There are no leash laws shelling which was fascinating. If you in Hvar, so free-range dogs amble about walk the walls of the old town you can doing what dogs do—in this case living see which roofs have been replaced and the life. They stayed at stylish Adriana sidewalks that were shelled during the Hvar on the water. war.” Another highlight was exploring the coastline around old town, Lokrum Mali Ston Island, and hidden caves via sea kayak! Flanking the isthmus that connects the (Not so fun was having to battle fierce Pelješac Peninsula with the mainland, winds and waves.) Speaking of battling, Ston and Mali (“Little”) Ston are famous she also got to see where Game of for three things: salt, oysters, and the Thrones was filmed. remarkable defensive wall that links them. En route to Montenegro, Stacey Winter is coming! So call us to plan your et al. visited an oyster farm in the small trip to Slovenia and Croatia. fishing village and enjoyed a meal of, what else, oysters paired with local wine.
Indulge in a little vita all’italiana (life, Italian style) at San Lorenzo lodges
past are lovely, but there’s also a helipad, an 18-hole Jack Nicklaus golf course (a staggering 3,900 feet up), a heated outdoor pool, a spa room with a sauna, a hot tub, an underground cantina, and a private chef. Nice. Best of all are the owners themselves, husband Stefano— every bit the thoughtful host—and wife Giorgia verging on Michelin-starred brilliance in the kitchen. Meals are served in the wine cellar where Stefano shares his passion for regional wines.
we’re betting that you’ll spend most of your time on deck—in the sun on the bow, in the shade on the stern—the lounge or the indoor and outdoor dining areas. While it’s a base to explore remote islands, snorkel or swim, it’s also a place to do nothing other than let time and the seascape unspool. To quote the Barbinis, this sleek boat is “not a house at the sea but rather the sea as a home.”
As for activities, they abound year-round; there’s plenty to do beyond ski season. You can visit farms and vineyards, milk goats, and hike the nearby slopes. Stefano, with the zeal of a rural convert, leads guests on adventurous walks to pick mushrooms (in season) and climb trees (suitable for kids of all ages). Riding, zip-lining, and mountain biking are also available, but you may just want to recline in the hot tub admiring the view with a glass of Tyrolean fizz in hand. (p.s. You also might actually spot the eponymous white deer!)
From the mountains to the sea . . . to a stellar Roman suite with a storied papal past . . . each of these “lodges” enchant in their own way.
Safe to say that Italians are a pretty stylish bunch; in few places do art and life intermingle so effortlessly. Nowhere is that more apparent than in these fabulous retreats. Giorgia and Stefano Barbini (former CEO of Escada), both luminaries on the international fashion scene, have turned their attention to the hospitality industry, bringing their stylish aesthetic to their three “San Lorenzo” lodgings. Each experience is unique: from White Deer Mountain Lodge, Blue Deer Sea Lodge, and Holy Deer City Lodge. All, however, embrace the Barbini philosophy of living life well and their reverence for the finer things.
White Deer Mountain Lodge Originally a 16th-century hunting lodge set in 42 acres of woodland and meadows in the Dolomites, White Deer was transformed by Barbinis into an intimate, luxurious hideaway. They managed to retain the building’s architectural integrity while adding cozy, stylish touches. It’s blissful in any season and offers changing dramatic views across the confluence of three valleys. The well- appointed interiors and nods to the
Blue Deer Sea Lodge In summer, this gorgeous custom-built 74-foot catamaran plies the waters sailing around the islands off Italy’s coast in summers and in winters heads to the Caribbean. The welcoming, enthusiastic crew is mostly made up of Italian sailors who are tasked with making up the handsome cabins, driving zodiacs, leading scuba dives, and making outstanding meals, using the famous fresh mozzarella from Gaeta. They stint on nothing on the Blue Deer. The cabins are large and inviting, but
Holy Deer City Lodge For the Barbinis third endeavor, they again ventured into the past and reimagined the concept of a “lodge.” This time they refurbished a 3,700foot, 17th-century apartment, once the residence of Pope Innocent X in the mid 1600s—the hideaway where the pontiff held secret trysts with his sister-in-law! Not so innocent after all. Not only are the quarters beautifully appointed, but there’s a small balcony that overlooks Piazza Navona, known for its Baroque fountain by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Just imagine leaning on that railing, Campari in hand, pontificating over the promiscuous pontiff. The salacious history coupled with the location and level of craftsmanship transport you into another world. It’s as if you’ve stepped into the very essence of Baroque.
Email us at goaway@poetravel.com for more information!
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POE TRAVEL PARTNERS LONDON
EUROPE
Four Seasons for the Family
All Aboard the Belmond Venice SimplonOrient-Express!
rt! “ We are off to a LOVELY sta w The transfer from Heathro to the Four Seasons was seamless, thank you for arranging!! . . . and look at ed all the goodies that await us upon arrival. The kids each have their own little th robes, tooth brushes, too are paste, and little cups. We in HEAVEN! Thank you for ly making this day incredib special!! m
Sending many thanks fro London, ne, — Jennifer, Elizabeth An es and McCall Key
RICHARD WAITE
We recently received this postcard from clients who started a family trip off right with a Four Seasons stay. FS takes care of our families—and we like that.
NAPA VALLEY
In Other Four Seasons News . . .
We’re very excited about the 2020 opening of Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley. It’s wine country like you’ve never experienced it before. Located on 23 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon vines, it will offer an experiential and immersive grape to glass experience. Nestled in the valley’s north, in the historic town of Calistoga, it’s a perfect fit for both families and for couples seeking an authentic wine country experience. We’ll drink to that!
Belmond’s Venice Simplon-Orient-Express adds three new Grand Suites for the 2020 season. Inspired by some of the great European capitals the train travels to, Vienna, Prague and Budapest, each Grand Suite is created with scrupulous craftsmanship that embraces the train’s iconic history throughout. From the hand- embroidered cushions to intricately carved marquetry, the suites offer an unmatchable experience with perfectly placed mosaics, silk patterns, en-suite bathrooms, double beds, and a private living area with underfloor heating. The Grand Suite experience includes freeflowing champagne, a personal 24-hour cabin steward, private in-cabin dining, spacious marble en-suites, bespoke amenities, a complimentary bathrobe, and private transfers to and from the train. The three new Grand Suites will bring the total number of suites on board to six as they join Venice, Istanbul and Paris and are available for booking now. Call us! We predict a sweeping sell-out.
Inspired by some of the great European capitals the train travels to, Vienna, Prague and Budapest, each Grand Suite is created with scrupulous craftsmanship that embraces the train’s iconic history throughout.
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AGENT REPORTS
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SKETCHBOOK
LACEY JAMES
The Joys of Joali Two tickets to paradise
Poe’s own Lacey James can finally check the Maldives off of her bucket list. “I’d always wanted to experience the Maldives,” says Lacey. So this spring she and husband Jeff jetted off for a welldeserved 25th-anniversary celebration. With its exquisite overwater bungalows, crystalline waters, and glorious sunsets, the allure of the Maldives needs little explanation. Lacey confirms that it not only met her expectations but exceeded them. Set on a lush 24-acre island in the Raa Atoll, Joali is a short 45-minute seaplane ride from Malé. The game of hotel one-upmanship has escalated exponentially in this region, but Joali is unique. They’ve taken a back-to-basics, eco-friendly, art-inspired approach; it is, in fact, the nation’s first immersive art hotel. On the whole, the design is restrained, except for the astonishing arrivals jetty set 16 feet above ground level—a structure that looks, from one side, like a manta ray and, from the other, like two fish kissing. (Astonishingly, it also doubles as an intimate treehouse restaurant for eight!) Rays the roof! Lacey and Jeff had always dreamed of staying in an overwater villa, and this one came complete with private infinity pool and hammock overlooking the Indian Ocean. “We watched a pod of dolphins swim and play right in front of our villa,” she says. When she managed to tear herself away from their luxe bungalow, Lacey could be found relaxing at the Espa spa (“the best massage of my life”), snorkeling with manta rays, strolling through the gardens, and riding bikes. They also rode in a glass bottom kayak and saw all manner of marine life including sharks, octopus, and squid. Other activities available include: tennis, diving, water skiing, dhoni cruises, and interactive workshops with the resort’s artistin-residence. “We were surprised that there were a lot of families with young children— mostly European,” notes Lacey. Though there is certainly enough to keep all ages occupied.* The food also deserves a mention because it stands out from other resorts in the area. “The food was fabulous—so fresh,” says Lacey. There are several dining options; one draws on local recipes while another is devoted solely to artisanal chocolate. This place really is heaven on earth! *Unlike other honeymoon-centric resorts in the Maldives, Joali is designed for the entire
Janet & Glenn Davis with Morie & Mark Malloy on a Seabourn Cruise to Greece, Croatia & Italy.
family and offers a host of activities to keep little ones entertained, including native storytelling with a local narrator, interactive treasure hunts, and cooking classes. Should you go, family in tow, we recommend the Private Ocean Residence or Private Duplex Beach Residence. The former comes with an on-call dhoni (a traditional Southeast Asian sailing vessel) and the latter with a 24-hour buggy service to ferry your family in style. OVER-THE-TOP AND UNDER THE WATER Lacey made a post-Joali jaunt to the refurbished Conrad Maldives Rangali Island to check out The Muraka, billed as the “world’s first underwater hotel villa.” (Though we know a few decorator crabs who may beg to differ.) “It’s right in the middle of the ocean and has an underwater bedroom. It’s really stunning,” says Lacey. (“It better be stunning at $50,000 a night,” says everyone ever.) It comes with its own staff including a butler and chef. A FLYBY OF DUBAI A stop-over in Dubai for two nights was fun of a different sort. Lacey and Jeff took a city tour; saw Burj Khalifa, for now the tallest skyscraper in the world; rode dune buggies in the desert; and spied (but did not ride) camels. Needless to say, it was an anniversary trip to remember. Now on to plavnning that 50th . . .
When she managed to tear herself away from their luxe bungalow, Lacey could be found relaxing at the Espa spa (“the best massage of my life”), snorkeling with manta rays, strolling through the gardens, and riding bikes.
Larry Quattlebaum & Carol Sitlington at The Great Wall in China. Jim Kelley & his grandson, Graham, celebrating his 8th birthday in NYC .
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Gail & James Trimble in Sicily.
The Dickinsons in the Galapagos!
Laura at Devil’s Throat in Argentina.
Cassie Crane in Cuba.
The Straessles hiking Mosquito Pass in Colorado.
Teresa Grace leads another successful nursing cruise. Noel & Ethan Strauss in Iceland.
Everything was spectacular, and we cannot stop raving about your recommendations and help! The private tours were so great! We want to go back, and want to go to new places, so we’ll be calling soon I’m sure! Thanks again! The Langleys on their trip from Barcelona to Rome
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“Definitely my favorite place ever!” Nell & Bob Lyford on Easter Island.
Justin Criddle & Ann McFerran at the Colosseum in Rome.
Cloud & Nancy Keyes at the Taj Mahal.
Richard & Cassie in Egypt.
Blake Palmer & Elysia Hampelon on their honeymoon in South Africa at Ngala Tented Camp. Kristin Tewhill skydiving over Alabama.
Here is a picture from . . . our time at Lainston House. The kids thought it was magical and enjoyed bike riding and playing croquet (beyond the hedges), and EA loved the falcon/owl experience you arranged! Thank you for planning the perfect trip! We loved every minute! Martin Amaro’s ordination trip to Rome.
The Keyes
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PRSRT STD U.S. POSTAGE PAID LITTLE ROCK, AR PERMIT 195
91 5 CU MB ER L AND S TRE E T P.O. B OX 2 576 LIT TL E RO CK, AR —— 72 20 2 5 01 376 4 1 71 | 800 72 7 19 60
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